Subject: Re: [fukuoka_farming] Re: double digging

From: "Ingrid Bauer/Jean-Claude Catry" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 20:56:22 -0700

> I would love to see these numbers you are referring to.  I have heard so

> much about the negatives of tilling, and have avoided doing so in my new

> garden, it is a hard clay soil and I am planting a cover crop to help

build

> the soil up.  I was explaining why I havent tilled to a couple of good

> friends of mine, one of which has a degree in something agricultural

> related, I cant remember what at this time... and he told me that its the

> only way I will be able to work organic material into my soil... I would

> like to share some hard data with my friends.  Thank you in advance

what is aggreagate ?

http://soils.usda.gov/sqi/files/sq_eig_1.pdf

an accessible way to measure agreggate stability of your soil

http://www.mandakzerotill.org/book19/s005.html

an overview of no till farming in the context of conventional agriculture

http://www.rolf-derpsch.com/notill.htm

comparative numbers in a conventional no-till farm

http://www.cedarmeadowfarm.com/Research.html

fields not tilled for over 10 years 62,3 %

fields tlled in the last 10 years    18,1 %

jean-claude

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---

From: "pollywog" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2004 23:15:57 -0000

---I would listen to Benjamin, with one exception- It sure won't take

a full 3 years to make a difference. I did double digging, it's a

goof. I do use lasange-style plot prep, it works quite well. It takes

no time at all- I have happily planted in lasgne type plots within 2

months of laying them, and have yet to be dissapointed.

**Disclaimer**

I understand I yak too much about growing inside gardens and other

strange practices that work well for me; and I *do* understand I am

boring to many, with my yak about "taking the time" and other Mom

Earth/esoteric BullKapoopie- so please, all those who email me to tell

me I'm horrible, I know, I Know! I **choose** to speak up yet again,

and have already notd your complaints. I simply choose to ignore them,

when I feel good information is so easily available to newbies, and

they are not getting directed there for some reason.  I do find it

funny, this is the only group I feel the need for this disclaimer

with. **

Plant some dock. Queen Anne's Lace. Nettles. Daikon radishes. Maybe

some comfrey or plantain. Grab some other good plants/weeds, and let

'em go. Cut the tops off before seed if you feel the need, and let the

arial parts be part of your mulch.

**Leave The Roots Where They Are**

You only have to look back in the archives to know the plow and till-

and the double-dig, especially- is simply not needed.

Go to http://soilandhealthlibrary.com

and check out "Plowman's Folly". Look up "Weeds, Guardians of the

Soil" on the Journey to Forever Site.

For heaven's Sake, read the website articles on the Fukuoka Website

available in the links section of group, and read Emilia and Mr.

Fukuoka, themselves!

It's too easy. I'm sorry, but just looking under one's own nose (which

I am sorely inadept at, myself. "Do As I Say! Not As I Do!" <G>) is

sometimes a fine place for answer beginnings. deb

In [email-masked], "benonthenet" <benonthenet@y...>

wrote:

> > and he told me that its the only way I will be able to work organic

> > material into my soil...

> Ask your friend "How does organic matter get into the soil in natural

> areas?"

> You can deliberately put organic matter in the soil by planting

> things that leave generous amounts of roots in the ground. That would

> be most root crops and plants like chard. (The plants you choose

> would have to be plants that won't just regenerate from root parts.)

> Just chop the plants down at the peak of root growth and let the

> roots decay. And, voila!, you'll have lots of organic matter directly

> in the soil without tilling at all. Do this for three years and

> you'll do more for the soil than any tilling could hope to accomplish.

> Benjamin

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