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OBSERVATIONS FROM A COMPOSTING TRAINER
By Doug Remington


	I have been a composting trainer for the City of Columbia, MO for 
two years.  I was blessed with 
students that knew more about composting than I did.  I would like to 
share some of that information with 
you.  
	The first thing I learned is keep it simple.  Kitchen wastes can be 
composted quickly, without 
any odors, no rats, mice, snakes (we have had composters find snake 
families living in their compost 
bins), and no flies or other noxious insects.  The only tool you need 
is a small shovel.  Simply bury each 
days wastes in a small hole about 6 inches deep.  Just dig a small 
hole, put the wastes in the hole, and 
put the top soil back on.  In just a few days (not 1 to 3 years like 
the wire bin) it will be gone.  I have had 
many people tell me they have been burying their trash for 15 years 
or more and never a problem or 
complaint.  One elderly couple that moved into a downtown condo 
buries their trash in the flower beds 
along their sidewalk and in front of their unit.  That is enough 
space for their needs and they have been 
doing it for three years and not a single problem.
	Why does in-the-ground composting work so well.  Because it 
moderates the tremendous swings 
in the parameters of moisture, temperature, and oxygen.  The same 
thing a good compost bin is supposed 
to do.  When choosing a compost bin, you should check and see how 
well it scores on each of these 
parameters.  Take a very commonly recommended compost bin, the wire 
bin.  It does nothing to control 
moisture swings, no wind protection, no vermin protection, no 
insulation, no shade, and no nothing.  It is 
the worst compost bin design possible.  The people who recommend it 
say materials will breakdown in 1 to 
3 years.  Lots of time for bad things to happen.  One researcher I 
work with lives in a nice suburban 
neighborhood.  A few years ago he and his neighbors attended a 
neighborhood meeting to learn about 
composting.  The wire bin was suggested because it is cheap and 
anyone can make one.  So they all 
made one and filled them with leaves.  A few people put some more 
leaves in the next Fall.  Then they all 
ignored th
ir bins because nothing was happening.  Then we had several wet 
Springs and something did happen.  All 
of the wire compost bins went anaerobic.  The stench was so terrible 
that it would almost bring tears to 
your eyes.  The whole neighborhood was a foul and putrid place.  
Everyone gave up composting because 
it didn’t work.  The simple answer is to mow the leaves when they 
have fallen and are dry.  Start at the 
outside of your yard and mow in a counter-clockwise concentric circle.
  Spread out any clumps and in a 
few weeks you won’t be able to see a single leaf.  It will fertilize 
the yard for free and improve the overall 
health of your yard.  There is no easier(no raking, bagging or 
lifting heavy bags), quicker, more effective 
or cheaper way to dispose of leaves.  
	It is very important for composting trainers to be firm and 
recommend bins that are really 
effective.  One to three years is not an acceptable time frame. Too 
much time for something to go wrong.  
A compost bin should create an environment that stimulates both 
macbobes and microbes.  That means a 
top for shade and to repel rain and sides to protect the pile from 
the drying winds and provide vermin 
control.  Cost is not a prohibitive factor.  Cardboard can make great 
walls and a small piece of white or 
black plastic makes a great roof.  As a matter of fact, they can be 
used to retrofit the wire bins.  Several 
of my students have done just that and have been amazed at the 
results.
	Remember, no compost bin will work at peak performance levels 
without a lid and sides.        

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Subject: 

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Subject: Composting document

Please give this document to any group or person wanting to learn 
about choosing a compost bin.  I have 
illustrations I can send on paper if you are interested.          The 
World's Ultimate Compost Bin
        
             Doug Remington
             Composting Trainer
             Columbia Public Works Volunteer Program
              
              I am always amused by the modern pursuit of a single 
device that will work perfectly for 
everyone, everywhere, under every possible set of conditions. One of 
my favorite sayings is, "If it says 
one size fits all, it won't fit anyone." So the world's ultimate 
compost bin is one that meets the following 
criteria:
              1. A bin that you can afford. You may not be able to 
afford a $3,000 solar powered, motor driven 
composting facility. A simple, cheap, but effective compost bin can 
be made of newspaper, heavy string, 
and small sticks. (See the diagram and instructions for how to 
construct one.) A newspaper bin is 
especially good for batch composting things like leaves. A farmer can 
tell you how fast hay rots when the 
bales are turned on end.
              If appearances are not a main concern for you, either 
because you can screen off the bin or 
because you have a large enough property to keep the bin out of sight,
 a free, biodegradable bin is as 
close as a store that sells appliances. Collecting a shipping box 
>from  a washing machine or dishwasher 
and punching some aeration holes in the bottom and sides gives you an 
instant compost bin that will 
eventually turn into compost itself. The shipping box and newspaper 
bins are both static pile composters 
which means they are not to be turned or stirred. This results in a 
slower process but is a perfectly 
acceptable method of composting.
              You can also build a very attractive and highly 
efficient unit very cheaply out of wooden pallets. 
(See the diagram and instructions for how to construct one.) Wood is 
an ideal material for compost bins for 
several reasons. It is biodegradable, strong, a fairly good insulator,
 makes an attractive compost bin, and 
when coupled with screen provides protection from insects and vermin. 
It also protects the compost from 
the drying rays of the sun and wind, and it is available everywhere.
              Wooden pallets are often discarded after a single use 
or when broken. You can usually get them 
for free or very cheap. If you don't know of a source through your 
employment or friends you can purchase 
pallets very inexpensively from Civic Recycling on Brown Station Road.

              2. A bin that is made out of recycled, biodegradable 
materials. One of the main reasons for 
composting is to lessen the flow of materials into landfills. If bins 
are made of non-recyclable plastics, for 
instances, they will wear out and need disposal. In the future 
landfills could be filling up with old, worn 
out, plastic compost bins.
              3. A design that provides an ideal growth environment 
for the hundreds of organisms that form a 
community of waste degraders and that works for your lifestyle. 
              How well your compost bin controls the environmental 
parameters of moisture, humidity, 
aeration, and temperature, determines how fast your wastes will break 
down.
              A commonly suggested design is the woven wire bin. The 
biggest problem with this design is 
excessive wetting and drying. This means the bin provides ideal 
conditions only a small fraction of the 
time in our Missouri climate. The wastes are held up for the sun and 
wind to do the maximum drying. Dry 
wastes do not compost. Then, when it finally does rain the pile 
either gets too wet or the excessively dry 
material sheds the rain and stays dry. If it should get too wet, 
anaerobic digestion takes place which 
causes foul odors. If it sheds the rain _ have you ever noticed how 
much harder it is to get a completely 
dry sponge to soak up a spill_ it stays too dry and nothing happens. 
These problems can be overcome by 
wetting the pile as you build it and then covering the pile with 
white plastic if your compost pile is in the 
direct sun or black plastic it is in the shade. Be sure to cut some 
aeration holes in the plastic to allow the 
pile to breathe. Don't cut the holes in the top because it will 
allow
unwanted water to enter the system. You can use rocks, bricks, soil, 
or boards around the base of the 
compost pile to hold the plastic in place. But the pallet bin is 
really a better option.
              There are dozens of designs for compost bins to fit 
into almost any lifestyle. The first step is to 
decide what you want the compost bin to do for you. Many people have 
sedentary jobs and need some 
physical exercise. Having a composting system that requires regular 
turning with a shovel can be the best 
choice. Regular turning also speeds up the composting process. The 
Columbia Volunteer Program, 
University Extension, or the public library all have information on 
compost bin designs. You can also visit 
the Compost Bin Demonstration Sites at Oakland Middle School and the 
Community Garden on 9th Street 
to see a number of different types of bins.
              Other people are so busy and overworked they don't have 
the time or energy to turn the 
compost pile. Most modern commercial composting companies use a 
composting system called Aerated 
Static Piles. Instead of regularly turning the piles to expose all 
parts of the pile to the fresh air, they run 
slotted flexible pipe throughout the pile to allow the air to flow 
through the pile. The same technique can 
be used in a small scale unit. Slotted flexible pipe is used 
underground to drain water away from buildings 
and is available at most building supply stores. Simply cover each 
end with screen or old pantyhose to 
prevent vermin from living in the pipe, and bury it in the pile with 
both ends exposed. If the pile is fairly 
large, bury one or two pieces of pipe in a U-shape with both ends 
poking up out of the top of the waste 
material. See below for suggested use of pipe system. 
              The design of a compost bin is limited only by the 
imagination, but the best bin is one that fits 
the needs and lifestyle of the composter who uses it.
              4. Finally, a compost bin that is legal. Where you live 
determines what waste disposal 
regulations you have to follow. If you live in Columbia, composting 
is legal unless it becomes a nuisance 
because of odor or is attracting or providing a breeding site for 
flies or rats. If one of your neighbors calls 
in a complaint about your compost pile to the Health Department it 
will be investigated. If it is determined 
there is a problem you will be given seven days to fix the problem 
and you will be referred to the Columbia 
Volunteer Program for help in solving the problem and maintaining the 
pile correctly. If you are a renter 
you will need your landlord's permission to start a compost pile. 
Even if you own your home, you may be 
restricted by neighborhood codes.
              Many rural people can legally have a simple, open pile 
in the backyard under the old oak tree. 
Open piles are cheap, but the drawback is that they are slow, prone 
to excessive wetting and drying, offer 
poor insect and vermin control, and can be very unsightly.
              
              
              
           Building a Newspaper Compost Bin
              
              Assemble newspaper, heavy string, small, fairly 
straight sticks and compostable materials (A). 
              Cut several small matching holes along the edge of 
several thicknesses of newspaper.  If you 
fold the edge and cut a >, it will form a diamond as pictured (B). 
Add a few holes scattered throughout the 
face of the paper to provide aeration. Don't make too many aeration 
holes.
              Lay the newspaper down with ends overlapping and 
diamond cuts matching. Weave a stick in 
and out through the diamond cuts to hold the newspaper together (C).
              	When you have enough sheets to form the diameter you 
want, overlap the two ends 
and weave them together. Three sheets should be a manageable size, 
but it can be bigger if you like. You 
will wind up with a cylinder of newspaper (D). 
              Fill the cylinder with compostable materials like 
leaves and grass clippings. Tie a few bands of 
stout biodegradable string around the bin during the filling to 
provide extra support (E). 
              You will end up with a bale covered on the outside with 
newspaper. You can even remove the 
support sticks once the bale is made and use them over and over if 
you have done a good job of tying the 
string. 
              
              
              
           The Baffled Compost Bin
             
              A moderately priced compost bin that is very efficient 
is the baffled bin. It works so well because 
of moisture, humidity, and air control. Hot dry wind can dry out any 
material it comes in direct contact with. 
The baffles (see illustration) prevent hot dry air from coming in 
direct contact with the composting 
materials. As the air is drawn into the bin it swirls around and 
slowly picks up moisture before being drawn 
into the interior of the pile where composting is taking place. 
Having moisture laden air drawn into the 
center of the pile is very beneficial because compost piles dry out 
>from  the inside out. The moisture laden 
air also stimulates many microorganisms because they can draw their 
moisture from the air. The baffles 
provide excellent control of large vermin like rats and mice and if 
screen is used to cover the openings 
there is excellent insect control. The baffled bin will compost as 
efficiently as any high priced system and 
is very attractive if built with quality materials.
              Construct five baffled panels for your bin. This will 
give you four sides and a top. A top is very 
important on a baffled bin to moderate the air flow. Construction is 
similar to the pallet bin. In fact, pallets 
can be turned into baffled panels by nailing boards and spacers onto 
them. For ease in turning the pile or 
getting at the finished compost, have one side open out or detach. 
The top panel can either be hinged so 
it can be raised or just rest on the top edges of the four sides.
              
              
              
           Building A Pallet Bin
             
              Assemble four wooden pallets, six fence posts, some 
boards, nails, and wire.
              Try to get pallets the same size as it will make 
construction easier, but they don't have to be 
exactly the same size. You can join the pallets together using six 
steel fence posts, some 1" x 4" boards, 
galvanized wire or coated heavy copper wire, or galvanized nails. But 
be creative. If you have materials at 
hand like untreated wooden posts or nylon rope instead of wire, use 
them. 
              Choose the largest of your pallets to be the roof and 
measure it's length and width. This will be 
the maximum outside dimension of the walls of your compost bin. Draw 
a square or rectangle that size on 
the ground where you will be placing your bin. Next measure the other 
three pallets and lay out a 
C-shaped design smaller than the roof (see top view). 
              Drive two fence posts for each wall spaced about a foot 
>from  each end. Drive them in so the top 
of the fence post is lower than the top edge of the pallet. This will 
keep them from sticking up over the 
top edges of the sides and interfering with the roof. Wire or tie the 
pallets to the posts. 
              The pallet you have chosen for the roof needs to be 
modified for maximum effectiveness. What 
you want is a roof that doesn't leak too badly. Use the 1" x 4" 
boards to cover the open spaces between 
the boards that make up the top surface of the pallet (see the roof). 

              Then put the roof on and wire it to the pallets used 
for the walls. Some kind of front door would 
improve effectiveness, even one as simple as a heavy canvas flap with 
a board stapled to the bottom. Or 
purchase five pallets instead of four and wire or tie the fifth to 
the front as a door.