Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 14:15:25 +1100 From: J & F Higham Newsgroups: alt.permaculture Subject: Re: Soap - Laundry soap and Net sites Anyone who wants to make soap please note that if you use any cautic soda (lye) in the process, then you must take precautions. It gets very hot when mixed with water and caustic soda itself will burn skin. Never use plastic pots or buckets. Use only wooden stirrers and stainless steel. Soap making is an art and it takes some practice to get it right. That having been said are some Net sites on soap making, these have recipes and/or links to suppliers and other sites; http://hometown.aol.com/oelaineo/soapmaking.html http://www.ecosoft.com/thelibrary/index.htm http://lis.ab.ca/walton/old/soap.html http://www.folksonline.com/folks/hh/tours/soapmkg.htm Biodegradable Laundry soap (note that measurements are metric) (1 cup = 250 ml) half cake of pure laundry soap grated, half cup washing soda crystals half cup vinegar 1 litre tepid water 4 and a half Litres Hot water 4 litres cold water half teaspoon eucalyptus oil &/or Lavendar oil Boil grated soap & tepid water, add washing soda. Stir, once dissolved, add vinegar, stir thoroughly & remove from heat. Add oils then hot and cold water. Leave overnight to let solidify. Use 2 or more cups in wahing machine depending on model and size of load. Makes about 10 litres. I'm still hunting through my recipe file for the domestic soap recipe which uses vegetable oil as the 'fat' base. Will post when I locate it. Fran From: "AndreaMc" Newsgroups: alt.permaculture Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 10:40:09 +1100 <> I thought you might like this recipe for Castile Soap, it's an olive oil based soap which is beautifully rich and gentle. Makes about 15 bars. Equipment: 6 lt stainless steel saucepan Long handled plastic spoon Accurate kitchen scales Safety glasses or goggles Large plastic apron 2 lg heat resistant plastic jugs Long rubber gloves 2 kitchen thermometers (must have a reading as low as 25oC) Large clear container with plastic lid (big enough to hold soap mixture) Insulated box (like a foam grocers box) plastic tablecloth or large sheet of plastic. Ingredients 1.5k olive oil 198 gms caustic soda 25gms apricot kernel oil 30gms essential oil 570gms filtered water Safety Information as outlined above by Fran. Vinegar should be wiped over a caustic soda burn to neutralise the soda. Until it cures the soap will remain caustic. Method Using the 2 jugs, one with water and the other with the caustic soda, carefully and gently pour the water into the jug containing the caustic soda. Stir the solution gently with plastic spoon, avoid splashing, until dissolved. This mixture will heat up by itself up to 80oC when first mixed. Set aside and let cool to 30oC. Measure the olive oil into the saucepan and gently heat to 30oC. Once both solutions are at 30oC gently pour the lye solution into the saucepan. Avoid splashing and stir continuously for around 1 hour before pouring into large plastic container. Place the container into the foam box or wrap in blankets for insulation. Check the soap every 8 hours. With a plastic spoon stir in the thin layer of oil that forms on the top of the mixture until it no longer forms - this can take up to 3 days. Keep the mixture insulated between stirrings. Tracing occurs when the mixture is thick enough to leave a light pattern on the surface when mixture is drizzled with a spoon. When this occurs thoroughly stir in the apricot kernel oil and essential oil. Stir only until the oil is incorporated into the mixture. Replace lid and return container to insulated box and leave undisturbed for 48 hours. The soap should now be firm enough to leave an imprint when pressed. If not remove the lid and expose to air for a day or so. Turn out of container and place on plastic sheet. Leave until roughly the hardness of Swiss cheese - approx. 1 week. Cut the large block into soap bars. Place bars where air can circulate around them to let them cure. Leave for 6 weeks before using. <><><><><><><><><><><> ---------------------- <><><><><><><><><><><> Date: Mon, 17 Apr 1995 14:00:03 -0400 From: EWhiteVHP@aol.com Subject: FAQ Soapmaking So, you want to make soap? Good! I'll try my best to tell you how. I'm Elaine White, author of "Soap Recipes: Seventy tried-and-true ways to make modern soap with herbs, beeswax and vegetable oils" These instructions are very condensed and cannot possibly contain the details included in "Soap Recipes." Nonetheless, I believe you will have a good overview after you read these instructions. Once you learn basic safety precautions, soapmaking procedures and termonology, you will be able to make soap from any recipe. The outline for these instructions is: A) Safety precautions in handling lye, lye/water and freshly-made soap B) The equipment list C) The procedure of combining ingredients and molding soap D) Herbal soap E) Superfatting soap F) US Soapmaking suppliers G) Soap recipes --------------------------------------------------- A) Locating lye and safety precautions in handling it. (The following may frighten you, but I promise that thousands of people make soap everyday without mishap. You need to know all the dangers present in order to avoid trouble. If you can get past the following warnings--you are destined to make soap!) Look where drain cleaners are sold and buy 100% lye (Red Devil is one brand). Don't bother looking at liquid drain cleaners and don't try Draino (it contains metal). If you aren't sure the product is 100% lye, then order lye from a soapmaking or chemical supplier (addresses listed). Most good soap recipes list lye by weight for accuracy: lye in granular form (drain cleaner) measures differently than lye in flake form (the form of lye from chemical suppliers, pool chemical suppliers, etc.). Scales are a necessary part of sucessful soapmaking and allows you to use any type of lye. Lye can be nasty if handled improperly. Lye (sodium hydroxide) is also known as caustic soda. Upon opening a container of lye, the lye crystals absorb water from the air, which can weaken the strength of the lye and cause it to form a solid lump. When not in use, keep lye closely capped. Lye reacts with some metals: iron, aluminum, zinc, and tin. Safe containers include heatproof stoneware, glass, enamel, stainless steel and plastic. Lye can be fatal if swallowed. Always keep it out of the hands of children. Lye can remove paint. If lye, lye/water or freshly-made soap splatters onto a painted surface, wipe it off immediately. Wash the area with water and detergent; wash it with clear water, then wipe it dry. Lye, lye/water and freshly-made soap can burn and irritate skin. Burns from lye are not instantaneous. It takes awhile for lye to irritate skin. Chances are you will notice if lye splashes on you. You'll notice itching before burning. Lye/water on skin is first noticed by a slippery feeling. Rinse your hands with vinegar and immediately rinse them with running water. Since lye can burn skin, you can imagine what it does to eyes. It's difficult to rinse your eyes while they're burning and you can't see. This painful and dangerous situation in entirely avoidable. Always wear eye protection! You may wonder why anyone wants to bathe with soap that contains something as harsh as lye. Well, the good news is that soap is *made* with lye, but soap doesn't *contain* lye. Lye reacts with fats, crating roughly three molecules soap and one molecule glycerin. The lye is no longer presnet--only great soap and glycerin. ------------------------------------------------- B) The equipment list # one 4-to-6 cup mixing container made of lye-resistant material (I use a stainless steel mixing bowl) # one heatproof container that holds at least 2 cups (I use a Pyrex measuring cup) # stainess steel, plastic or wooden spoon or a rubber spatula # two thermometers made of glass or stainless steel (candy and meat thermometers work well) # eye protection (wear sunglasses if you have to!) # rubber gloves (optional) # scale to weight the fats and lye # soap molds (any flexible plastic container works well) # a clock with a second hand or other type timer # wire whisk (optional) # pot holders or oven mitts # measuring spoons ---------------------------------------------------- C) The procedure 1) Put the fats in a lye-resistant container and place a glass or stainless steel thermometer into the fats. Be sure the thermometer doesn't touch the bottom of the container and give a false reading. Heat the fats and optional ingredients to the temperature specified in the recipe. 2) Put on eye protection and rubber gloves. 3) Dissolve the lye in cold water (use distilled water if your water is hard) and wait for it to reach the temperature specified in the recipe. Use a heat-proof container to measure the amount of cold water (70 to 75 degrees F) specified in the recipe. Cold water is important. If you add lye to hot or boiling water, the water could "boil-up" out of the container; if you add lye to *really* cold water, the lye/water might not reach the high temperatures required to make some recipes. Stir the water and slowly add the lye. The water will get hot and turn cloudy. Continue to stir until the lye dissolves. Don't breathe or intentionally smell the fumes coming from the cup because they are quite "chokey." If you wait too long to stir the water, the lye could harden in the bottom of the container. This is not a problem. You can still sitr it, but it will be more difficult. Add a glass or stainless steel thermometer to the lye/water and wait until it reaches the temperature specified in the recipe. Temperatures for making soap aren't critical. For small one-pound batches, temperatures from 120 to 150 degrees F usually work well. 4) When both the fat and the lye/water reach the temperature specified in the recipe, add the lye/water to the fat. I's sometimes a balancing act to get the fat mixture and the lye/water mxiture to specific temperatures at the same time. Never place lye/water in a microwave (the cup could break). It takes lye/water longer to cool than it takes fat to heat. Most soapmakers wait for the lye/water to cool to about five degrees above the desired temperature, then heat the fat. When both the lye/water and the fat are within five degrees of the temperatures specified in the recipe, use a pot holder and move the bowl to a sink (to contain splatters). Slowly pour the lye/water into the fats while stirring. 5) Stir the soap until it "traces." When lye, water and fat first combine, the mixture is thin and watery. Gradually, as the lye and fat react chemically to form soap, the mixture thickens and turns opaque. "Tracing" is a term to describe the consistency (thickness) of soap when it's ready to pour into molds. To test for tracing: a. Drip some soap onto the surface of the soap in the stirring bowl. It should leave a "trace" or small mound. b. Draw a line in the soap with a spoon or rubber spatula. If a "trace" of the line remains for a few seconds, the soap has traced. Tracing is easy to recognize, yet it causes new soapmakers a lot of worry. Relax and know that the soap will trace eventually. Just stir the soap constantly for the first 15 minutes or so, then stir the soap every fifteen minutes until it thickens and traces, no matter how long it takes. 6) After the soap traces, add up to one tablespoon essential oil (if desired) and stir a few minutes longer to incorporate the oil. 7) Pour the soap into molds and wait for it to harden. 8) Unmold the soap, Soap is still harsh when it's time to remove it from the molds. Put on rubber gloves and press the back of each mold compartment to release the soap. It's a lot like removing ice cubes from a tray. Sometimes the soap doesn't release easily from the mold. To overcome this problem, leave the soap in a freezer for a few hours. Freezing soap causes it to contract slightly, becom hard and release from the plastic mold. 9) Wait the time specified in a recipe for the soap to "age." (usually 3 weeks). During the aging time the pH of the soap decreased (the soap becomes mild) and the bars harden. It's a good idea to write the following information on a piece of paper and place it with the soap: the date you made the soap, the date the aging time is over, and the recipe name. 10) Step 10 is *enjoy your soap!* As soap ages, a fine, white powder may appear on the surface. This is soda ash (sodium carbonate) formed by a reaction of lye with carbon dioxide in air. This white powder is mostly on the surface exposed to air while the soap was in the molds. Soap that contains wax develops little or no soda ash. There are three ways to deal with soda ash: a. Try to prevent it. Immediately after pouring soap into molds, cover the soap with plastic wrap or waxed paper. Press the wrap or paper onto the surface of the soap to prevent air contact. b. Cut it away. Overfill the molds slightly. Later, when the soap hardens, take a knife and cut the soap level with the mold. This also cuts away the soda ash. c. Wash it away. Wait until the soap ages and hardens. Wash the powder away by rubbing the soap with your hands under running water or by rubbing the soap over a wet dishcloth. Set the soap aside to dry----then, *enjoy your soap!* ----------------------------------------------------- D. Herbal soap You can replace the water in soap recipes with herbal tea, but to be honest, most of the properties (color and fragrance) are lost. The best way to use herbs in soap is to add dry, finely powdered herbs to the fats before adding the lye/water. Use anywhere from 1 tablespoon to 1/4 cup dried herbs to 1 lb soap. Coarsly ground herbs should be restricted to about 1 or 2 tablespoons per lb soap because they contribute a coarseness to the soap that sometimes makes it uncomfortable during use. The nicest way to add properties of herbs to soap is the addition of pure essential oils. Use anywhere from 1 teaspoon to 2 tablespoons essential oil per lb soap (depending on the strength of the oil). Color is an illusive thing as far as soap is concerned. Natural colors can be obtained by adding 2 tablespoons red clay, calendula petals and strong, true color can be obtained from Pourette's dye recommended for soap. Use up to 1/8 teaspoon per lb soap. --------------------------------------------------- E. Superfatting soap The following recipes have the exact amount of lye to make soap that contains very little excess fat. This soap leaves skin perfectly clean and smooth feeling. Some people like excess fat in recipes. For this I recommend 2 to 4 tablespoons castor oil added when the soap traces. Castor oil is emollient and contributes to soap lather. ----------------------------------------------------- F. Soapmakers supply list (United States) Barker Enterprises, Inc. 15106 10th Ave SW Seattle WA 98166 Telephone: 206-244-1870 retail/wholesale: waxes, molds and candle dye (which works for soap) Chem Lab Supplies 1060 Ortega Way, Unit C Placentia CA 92670 Telephone 714 630-7902 Fax 714-630-3553 retail: pH kits, electronic scales, lye Hagenow Laboratories, Inc. 1302 Washington St Manitowoc WI 54220 No telephone, correspond by mail and request catalog lye, waxes, clays, essential oils, thermometers and pH kits Liberty Natural Products 8120 SE Stark St Portland OR 97215 1-800-289-8427 $50 minimum order retail/wholesale same price essential oils, soapmaking fats, herbs, clays, etc. K & W Popcorn 710 E 24th St Trenton MO 64683 Telephone 816-359-2030 retail only: coconut oil 5 gallons (will ship) Lorann Oils 4518 Aurelius Rd Lansing MI 48909 Telephone 1-800-248-1302 retail/wholesale: essential oils, fats, candy molds, waxes Pourette Soapmaking Supplies 6910 Roosevelt Way NE Seattle WA 98115 Telephone 206-525-4488 retail/wholesale molds, dye, wax (request *soapmaking* price list as it's different than their regular catalog, which contains candle molds) Sunfeather Soapmaking Supply HCR 84 Box 60-A Potsdam NY 13676 Telephone 315-265-3648 retail only: lye, fats, soap fragrance ----------------------------------------------------- G) Now, the moment you've been waiting for--the recipes! copyright 1995 in "Soap Recipes" by Elaine C. White All rights reserved. All ounces (oz) are determined by weight unless otherwise stated. Lye is "sodium hydroxide" granular or flake form. Pure Soap 16 oz coconut oil 2.8 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 3 weeks Pure Soap II (softer style) 16 oz weight coconut oil 2.9 oz lye 3/4 cup water (6 fluid ounces) Oil room temp Mix and use lye Estimated tracing 1 to 2 hours When the soap traces, add 4 tablespoons castor oil to superfat the soap. Makes a smoother texture. Leave the soap in the mold 24 hours, freeze 3 hours, then remove from the mold. Age: 3 weeks. Soap III 6 oz coconut oil 6 oz olive oil 5 oz vegetable shortening 2.6 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 4 weeks Soap IV 9 oz vegetable shortening 4 oz coconut oil 3 oz lard 2.4 oz lye 3/4 cup water (6 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 24 hours Age: 3 weeks Soap V 10 oz vegetable shortening 6 oz coconut oil 2.4 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 4 weeks Soap VI & VII 16 oz lard or beef tallow 2.3 oz lye 3/4 cup water (6 fluid ounces) Estimated tracing 45 minutes Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 24 hours Age: 3 weeks Soap VIII Beeswax Castile 13 oz weight olive oil 2 oz beeswax 1 oz palm oil 2.1 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) (melt the beeswax with the fats) Fat and lye/water temperature about 150 degrees F Tracing time: about 12 minutes FAST! Time in molds: 48 hours Place the soap in a freezer for 3 hours, then remove it from the molds Age: 6 to 8 weeks for the bars to harden Beeswax Soap IX (follow directions at "Soap VIII) 16 oz weight olive oil 2 oz weight beeswax 2.2 oz weight lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) -------------------------------------------------------- I really hope you feel confident enought to prepare your first batch of soap. Good luck and happy lathering. Best regards, Elaine C. White -------------------------------------------------------- These instructions are condensed from "Soap Recipes: Seventy tried-and-true ways to make modern soap with herbs, beeswax and vegetable oils" Copyright 1995 Elaine C. White. All rights reserved. International Standard Book Number 0-9637539-5-9 The book is available from: Valley Hills Press, 1864 Ridgeland Drive, Starkville MS 39759 USA. In the US telephone 800-323-7102. Other countries call 601-323-7100. Contact EWhiteVHP@aol.com for more information. end From afn25124@freenet.ufl.edu Mon May 15 23:09:21 EDT 1995 Article: 12170 of alt.folklore.herbs Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!gatech!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu!afn25124 From: Frank Thompson Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs Subject: Soap recipe Date: Thu, 11 May 1995 14:21:33 -0400 Lines: 28 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Chris: Good soap requires fats that are free from dirt, rancidity, lean meat, salt and other impurities. Butchers will give you tallow, :}. BASIC SOAP FORMULA: Makes 9 pounds of pure, hard, smooth soap suitable for toilet, laundry, or soap flakes. Cold water 2 1/2 pints Pure flake lye 13 ounce can ***caution*** lye is caustic Clean fat(tallow, lard) 6 pounds Slowly pour lye into water in Pyrex, iron, or enamel vessel. Stir until lye is dissolved. Cool to 93 degrees F. Render tallow over low/medium heat. Careful not to burn. Strain out any impurities. Cool tallow to 125 degrees F. Pour lye solution into fat in a thin steady stream with slow, even stirring (slow means slow). Honey-like consistency is formed which becomes thick in 10 to 20 minutes. Pour mixture into wooden or pyrex square cake pan lined with clean cotton cloth wet in water and wrung nearly dry. Place in protecting pan. Cover with a board or cardboard, then with an old rug or blanket to retain heat while it's texturing out. Leave alone for 24 hours. Remove soap from mold by lifting ends of towel. Cut into bars by wrapping soap with a fine wire and pulling through. Dry by placing so air can circulate (not in draft or cold). Age for 10 to 14 days. You can of course, scent your soap with non-alcohol scents of your choice. Please acknowledge. Franco @freenet.ufl.edu From: Nicole_Okun@mindlink.bc.ca (Nicole Okun) Newsgroups: misc.rural Subject: Re: Lye Soap Date: Wed, 10 Aug 94 20:34:44 -0700 <><><><><><><><><><> Here is a recipe for single bars of soap, so you can experiment with different scents or added ingredients and not end up with forty pounds of hateful stuff. 1/2 C cold soft water 2 heaping Tbsp commercial lye 1 C melted beef tallow Slowly add the lye to the water, then bring both lye solution and tallow to about body temperature. Combine the two in a glass bowl and mix slowly and steadily with an eggbeater until the consistency is that of sour cream. Pour mixture into mold and cover with a blanket or cardboard. After 24 hours,remove from the mold and let it age in open air for two to four weeks before using. I don't remember where this recipe came from (I wrote it into my recipe book) and I have never tried it, but I do have methods and recipes for making lye, rendering fat, and specialty soaps like grease remover, vegetable soap (no animal fat), scented soaps, etc. Let me know if you're interested! -- Nicole uke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!blackbird.afit.af.mil!usenet From: "Thomas C. Johnson" Newsgroups: misc.rural Subject: Re: So what do you do with the bacon grease? Date: 2 Aug 1995 17:44:06 GMT Accumulate left over grease until you have about 5 lbs of it. Render it (boil it in water) until it's clean, then with a $1.50 can of lye you can make about 1 year's worth of homemade soap that is good for you, good for the environment, and will save you a bunch of money. Lard/lye soap works well in hard water, is biodegradable, takes the itch out of poison ivy, mosquito bites, and even gets the dirt off! From Nicole_Okun@mindlink.bc.ca Mon Aug 22 22:54:45 EDT 1994 Well, several people have requested the soap recipes I alluded to in an earlier post, so here they are. Once again, my disclaimer: I haven't actually tried these myself. A few notes to start: 1. Use soft water (add borax to hard water, or collect rain water) 2. Line molds with plastic or grease them with Vaseline 3. Keep some vinegar handy in case you splash lye on yourself (it will neutralize the lye) The Ingredients Castile Soap 1 lb 9 oz olive oil 3 lb 10 oz tallow 10 1/2 oz lye 2 pt water Avocado Soap - same as above, but substitute 6 oz of avocado oil for 6 oz of olive oil (this would be incredibly expensive in my part of the world!) Coconut & Olive Oil Soap 1 lb 7 oz olive oil 1 lb 7 oz coconut oil 1 lb 7 oz tallow 11 1/2 oz lye 2 pt water Standard Soap 13 oz lye 2 1/2 pt water 3 lb tallow 3 lb lard Cold Cream Soap Mix 2 oz of cold cream into standard soap just before pouring into molds Lanolin Soap Add 2 oz liquid anhydrous lanolin into the standard recipe before molding Milk & Honey Soap Mix 1 oz powdered milk, 1 oz honey into soap while still liquid Rose Water Soap Substitute 4 oz of rosewater for plain water when mixing the lye The Method Pour cold water into a non-metallic pot, then add the lye slowly while stirring with a wooden spoon. The reaction between the lye and water will heat it almost to boiling. Let it cool to room temperature. Bring both the lye solution and the fat to 95 - 98F in separate pots. Stir the fat, then add the lye solution in a steady stream while stirring. The mixture will turn opaque and brownish, then lighten. The consistency should be like sour cream. If the mixture separates, it can usually be reclaimed by slowly heating it to 140F and stirring gently all the while. Remove from heat and stir until it turns into soap. The soap is ready to mold if you let a few drops of it fall on the surface of the mixture and they are supported for a moment or two before sinking into the soap. Add any scents, colours, extra ingredients now, then pour into prepared molds. Cover molds with cardboard and leave in a warm place. After 24 hours, unmold the soap and leave it uncovered for two to four weeks to age. Scents Cinnamon 6 tsp oil of cinnamon 1/2 tsp oil of bergamot 1/2 tsp oil of sassafras Savon au Bouquet 4 1/2 tsp oil of bergamot 1/4 tsp oil of clove 1/2 tsp oil of thyme 1/2 tsp oil of sassafras 1/2 tsp oil of neroli Grease Removing Soap Mix 1 oz of almond meal, oatmeal or cornmeal to the castile soap recipe before molding. Vegetable Soap 2 lb 10 oz oilive oil 1 lb 7 oz Crisco 2 pt water 1 lb coconut oil 10 1/4 oz lye OK, now everybody run off and make soap and let me know how it turns out! -- Nicole From: ewhitevhp@aol.com (EWhiteVHP) Newsgroups: misc.rural Subject: Lye (& soap) from ashes-2pages Date: 3 Jun 1995 21:31:07 -0400 Copyright 1995 Elaine C. White. All rights reserved. Elaine is the author of "Soap Recipes" a 224-page book with over 70 modern soap recipes. (The following method is not included in the book, but once you have 1 cup of lye/water at the "right" strength, you could make any soap recipe.) Making lye from wood ashes is a very-old fashioned method of making soap. In order to do it properly today, one has to resort to "modern" methods of determining the lye strength. Is my method old-fashioned enough to suit the people?---if they know how to measure the strength of the lye with a string, rock and a stick? Think I'm nuts don't you? Hang with me a minute. If a person could make a lye solution the same specific gravity of the lye/water we use, then they'd know how much to add to a pound of fat to make soap--one cup, right? Well here's how to "Make lye from scratch" Drill a few holes in the bottom of a plastic garbage bin and then stand it on blocks over a large collection dish (lye-resistant material remember). Add a cloth at the bottom of the bin or about 4 inches of straw or pine needles to act as a filter. Fill the bin with with finely sifted wood ash, but not the kind from paper wastes as they often contain clay and other additives. Pour a bucket of cold rainwater on top of the ash. Wait a few hours to see if water seeps from the bottom of the bin. Collect the water, add it to another bucket of water and pour through the ashes. Repeat this process every time the ashes stop dripping. The water contains lye. The more times it's run through ashes, the stronger the lye. It may be necessary to remove the ashes from the bin and replace them with new ashes in order to make the lye/water strong enough. It's also possible to boil the lye/water to reduce the water, making the remaining lye/water stronger pH. (Better not breathe *those* fumes!) Now--Baume is a scientific measurement (like specific gravity) and it's a very accurate way of measuring the strength of lye/water. The modern instrument to measure specific gravity is called a hydrometer. Making a old-fashioned hydrometer Can't remember the source, but remember reading a bunch of absolutely "foolish" methods of testing the strength of the lye. (Floating an egg is *not* a good indication.) One of the most interesting (and one that sounded most-likely to work) said to make a very strong solution of salt. Really pour in the salt, stir and let it sit several hours so the water dissolves as much salt as possible. Excess salt will sit at the bottom of the container--voila!--a "saturated salt solution." This author says that the specific gravity of this solution was the same as the lye/water needed to make soap. Said to make an instrument to measure the specific gravity by tying a rock to a string and tying the other end of the string to a stick (cork-type arrangement, but the string between the rock and stick must be very short-no more than an inch or so. Hard to describe, but what you're doing is almost tying a rock on the bottom of a long stick). Now float the home-made hydrometer in the saturated salt solution. The rock should sink and most of the stick floats above water. (If the rock goes to the bottom, it may be too heavy, or the container isn't deep enough) The rock must be suspended in the liquid and the stick bobbing freely. Mark a line at the water level. (This is the "magic measurement") Now, put the homemade hydrometer into the lye solution. If the lye/water is the "right" strength for soapmaking the water-line marked should be at the lye/water level. If not, the lye is too strong, or not strong enough. Now, I don't know what strength this guy is talking about (wish I had his name to give credit for his work), but he sure gave me an idea. I make a lye solution of the "right" strength (by adding 2.2 oz weight to 1 cup water). Put the homemade hydrometer in the solution and make the "magic mark" The stick-hydrometer could be used over and over. Hey--that would work! I know it would!------------Elaine Hey, Pam and Diane--is this method primative enough to suit the living-history people? We could sell "stick hydrometers" to people who want to make soap "the old-fashioned way?" Guaranteed repeat market 'cause that stick ain't gonna last long with repeated exposure to lye/water! I'm teasing about the sale, but I love the method! From: Coyote and her Hunter Newsgroups: misc.rural Subject: Re: Soapmaking Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 10:20:08 -0600 Marge Pritchett wrote: ...P.S. What is the purpose of the lye? If it is caustic and > shouldn't get on your skin during the soapmaking process then > how can it be used on skin afterward? Yes, Marge, lye in its pure form is not good for the skin. But in soapmaking, the lye reacts with the fat (whether vegetable or animal) to make the soap. The result, if you measure carefully, should not be caustic, since all the lye should be used up in the chemical reaction. I *will* say that the lye soap my grandmother used to make from lard did have a tendency to be harsh on clothes, so I assume she had a generous hand when she measured the lye. I did enjoy the process of rendering the lard, making and cutting the soap, and helping her wash clothes in her wringer washer. Nice memories.... DeeAnna From: stevet@bright.net (Steve Thomas) Newsgroups: misc.rural Subject: Re: Soapmaking Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 08:05:25 GMT >P.S. What is the purpose of the lye? If it is caustic and >shouldn't get on your skin during the soapmaking process then >how can it be used on skin afterward? I grow herbs so would >like to also know which ones are best for use in soapmaking. >The vegetable oil based soaps esp. interest me but I would like >to read about all. Thanks again! It's a chemical process. Caustic plus lipid produces soap. If you have an excess of caustic, yeah, the soap ends up being pretty rough on the skin. If you have an excess of fat, then all the caustic gets used up in the saponification process, and you have oil mixed up with your soap. If you use sodium hydroxide (regular caustic soda), you end up with regular soap. If you use potassium hydroxide (caustic potash), you end up with soft soap. In the process of handling soybeans, they are crushed and the crude soybean oil is purified by a number of steps, including saponification. The end result of this process is "neutral dry soap stock" which has historically been disposed of by blending it into animal feeds. Frankly, it's a hassle to get rid of, and the feed folks don't really want it, but nobody really knows what else to do with it. If you can figure out a use for it, the folks at Central Soya and Archer-Daniels-Midland would surely be interested in selling it to you *REALLY* cheap.... From: maynard@oregon.uoregon.edu (Tom Maynard) Newsgroups: sci.bio,sci.misc Subject: Re: Does soap need time to "work"? Date: 19 Feb 1995 10:52:14 GMT >There's no instructions on soap, and I don't know who else I can ask. >Does soap need time to work?" As a proud member of the "teeming millions" you (or Cecil) speak of in such derogatory tones, I feel it is my duty to muddy the water with another question: What do you want the soap to do? If you are using the soap as a *disinfectant*, the contact time is very, very important. Although normal soap would make a crappy disinfectant, it would probably have some disinfectant qualities, and the effectiveness would be directly proportional to the contact time. Disinfectant soaps (such as the antibacterial liquid soaps) often do have instructions which recommend a minimum contact time. If you are using it just to get the grime and film off your body, I suspect that time is not as important. Not that time doesn't matter at all: the mixing of detergent and grease would be limited by diffusion, after all, but the time needed for the soap which you are scrubbing on your body to diffuse through a very thin layer of hydrophobic grease and grime should be very short. Unless, of course, you've been bathing in the tar pits prior to shower time. (Scrubbing, of course, is an effective way to speed up the diffusion rate) >enzymatic reaction here. I always thought >business about the hydrophilic end of the soap molecule sticking to >the water molecules and the hydrophobic end sticking to the dirty was >a pretty straightforward chemical proposition that might be >accelerated by scrubbing but didn't otherwise need time to do its >stuff. Was I wrong and is Daddy right? Unless she's using that new Pancreatic Extract Soap, there shouldn't be any enzymes involved. But, as a (cough) Man of Science (cough), Ed, you should know that chemical reactions aren't instantaneous. They may be measured in picoseconds instead of years, but they aren't instantaneous. In this case, the limiting factor should be diffusion, which is pretty fast over short distances. Article 1924 of rec.food.sourdough: From: NANCY.COLEMAN@f125.n102.z1.calcom.socal.com (NANCY COLEMAN) Newsgroups: rec.food.sourdough Subject: SOAP RECIPES ETC. MMMMM----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.00 Title: Glass Cleaner Categories: Odd stuff, Cleaners Yield: 1 gallon 1 c White vinegar 1 c Ammonia 1 tb Mild detergent 13 c Warm water In a cleam gallon-size plastic jub, mix the alcohol, ammonia, and degergent together. Fill with warm water. Label jug, keep tightly capped, and keep out of reach of children. To use: Pour solution into a clean spray-type bottle. Spray window with the solution, wait 30 seconds, then wipe window thoroughly with newspapers, turning paper often. Discard paper when it is very wet. Although you will get your hands nice and dirty if you are not wearing plastic gloves, the ink on the paper seems to really shine up the windows without leaving any streaks at all. If you do notice streaking, it only means that the windows are still dirty - spray on more cleaner, and go at them again. SOURCE: Cheaper & Better by Nancy Birnes. Typed for you by Nancy Coleman. MMMMM * OLX 2.1 TD * Best way to be useful - stay out of the way. * Origin: Salata BBS * Redondo Beach, CA * (310) 543-0439 Fidonet: (1:102/125) Article 1925 of rec.food.sourdough: From: NANCY.COLEMAN@f125.n102.z1.calcom.socal.com (NANCY COLEMAN) MMMMM----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.00 Title: Oven Cleaner Categories: Odd stuff, Cleaners Yield: 20 ounces 1 c Ammonia 2 c Boiling water 1/2 c Baking soda 1 c White vinegar Pre-heat oven to 200 degrees. Leave oven on for 15 minutes; turn off and leave the door closed. Fill a shallow baking pan with ammonia and place on the top shelf of your oven. fill another pan with 2 cups boiling water and place on the bottom shelf. Close oven and leave pans in for at least 2 hours or overnight. Remove ammonia and make a past of ammonia, baking soda and vinegar. Spread paste on oven surfaces, leave on for 15 minutes, and then scrub off with a sponge or steel wool. Note: Clean up spills as they happen and you won't have to do this job very often. SOURCE: Cheaper & Better by Nancy Birnes Typed for you by Nancy Coleman MMMMM * OLX 2.1 TD * Green Thumb? Only when dying Easter Eggs! * Origin: Salata BBS * Redondo Beach, CA * (310) 543-0439 Fidonet: (1:102/125) Article 1926 of rec.food.sourdough: From: NANCY.COLEMAN@f125.n102.z1.calcom.socal.com (NANCY COLEMAN) MMMMM----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.00 Title: Dishwasher Spot Stopper Categories: Odd stuff, Cleaners Yield: 12 ounces 1 c Borax 1/2 c Baking soda Mix ingredients and store in a clean, tightly closed pint-size jar or can. Label and keep out of the reach of children. To use: Add 1 teaspoon of the mixture to your dishwasher in addition to your cleaning crystals. Or mix 1 cup Dishwasher Spot Stopper to 2 cups dishwashing crystals and use according to your machine's directions. SOURCE: Cheaper & Better by Nancy Birnes Typed for you by Nancy Coleman MMMMM * OLX 2.1 TD * Originality is undetected plagiarism. * Origin: Salata BBS * Redondo Beach, CA * (310) 543-0439 Fidonet: (1:102/125) Article 1927 of rec.food.sourdough: From: NANCY.COLEMAN@f125.n102.z1.calcom.socal.com (NANCY COLEMAN) MMMMM----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.00 Title: Drain Cleaner Categories: Odd stuff, Cleaners Yield: 20 ounces 2 c Baking soda 2 c Salt; kosher, rock, or reg. 1/2 c Cream of tartar Mix ingredients and store in a covered container. Label and keep out of the reach of children. To use: Have 2 cups of water boiling on the stove. Pour 1/4 cup of the cleaner down the drain and then follow immediately with half the boiling water. Wait 30 minutes and repeat. Flush with cold water when second application is finished. Hints: Keeping your drains clean involves some common sense; make sure your sink has a strainer-cover and keep it in the sink at all times. You can buy nice plactic replacements at the hardware store, so there's no excuse for not having one. Try to avoid pouring any kind of grease down the drain. If your drain gets clogged, keep a plunger handy and if you dislodge any clogs this way, use the Drain Cleaner when you are finished. As for the hint that isn't supposed to work, but it does: I pour used coffee grounds down the drain at least twice a day, each and every day, and I never, ever have a clogged drain. My mother does the same thing and she doesn't have clogged drains either, but everyone who sees me do this advises against it. It's supposed to mess up the drain, but confidentially, I think the grains act like little grinders and scrub the inside of the drain clean. SOURCE: Cheaper & Better, by Nancy Birnes. Typed for you by Nancy Coleman MMMMM * OLX 2.1 TD * Convert your 486 machine into an 8088 -- install Windows! * Origin: Salata BBS * Redondo Beach, CA * (310) 543-0439 Fidonet: (1:102/125) Article 1930 of rec.food.sourdough: From: NANCY.COLEMAN@f125.n102.z1.calcom.socal.com (NANCY COLEMAN) I have a book called Cheaper & Better that has all kinds of recipes for things like home-made mixes, cleaning supplies, bug repellent, egg dye, and hair spray just to name a few. If you don't think this is an inappropriate place to post them I wouldn't mind typing some of them in. Here are several for cleaning items to get started. Nancy MMMMM----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.00 Title: Dry Carpet Cleaner Categories: Odd stuff, Cleaners Yield: 20 ounces 2 c Baking soda 1/2 c Cornstarch 5 Bay leaves; crumbled 1 tb Ground cloves Mix all ingredients together and store them in a container with a tight-fitting lid. Label and keep out of reach of children. To use: Plan on leaving the mixture on your carpet overnight if possigle. Shake the cleaner and then sprinkle liberally all over the carpet to be cleaned. Close the door to the room so that pets or children don't get at the carpet, and then vacumn thoroughly the next day. Cheap Trick: If you have indentions in your carpet from furniture, you might try this trick to lift the carpet's nap; dip a clean dish towel in water, wring it out, and lay it down, doubled, over the sopt. Set your iron to its woolen, or medium-high setting and carefully lay the iron on the wet towel. Lift the edge and check - a few moments of steaming should do the trick. Be careful not to let the iron rest directly on the carpet or you could burn or even melt the fibers. SOURCE: Cheaper and Better by Nancy Birnes. Typed for you by Nancy Coleman MMMMM * OLX 2.1 TD * A fool and his money are SYSOP material. * Origin: Salata BBS * Redondo Beach, CA * (310) 543-0439 Fidonet: (1:102/125) -- From: EWhiteVHP@aol.com Subject: FAQ Soapmaking So, you want to make soap? Good! I'll try my best to tell you how. I'm Elaine White, author of "Soap Recipes: Seventy tried-and-true ways to make modern soap with herbs, beeswax and vegetable oils" These instructions are very condensed and cannot possibly contain the details included in "Soap Recipes." Nonetheless, I believe you will have a good overview after you read these instructions. Once you learn basic safety precautions, soapmaking procedures and termonology, you will be able to make soap from any recipe. The outline for these instructions is: A) Safety precautions in handling lye, lye/water and freshly-made soap B) The equipment list C) The procedure of combining ingredients and molding soap D) Herbal soap E) Superfatting soap F) US Soapmaking suppliers G) Soap recipes --------------------------------------------------- A) Locating lye and safety precautions in handling it. (The following may frighten you, but I promise that thousands of people make soap everyday without mishap. You need to know all the dangers present in order to avoid trouble. If you can get past the following warnings--you are destined to make soap!) Look where drain cleaners are sold and buy 100% lye (Red Devil is one brand). Don't bother looking at liquid drain cleaners and don't try Draino (it contains metal). If you aren't sure the product is 100% lye, then order lye from a soapmaking or chemical supplier (addresses listed). Most good soap recipes list lye by weight for accuracy: lye in granular form (drain cleaner) measures differently than lye in flake form (the form of lye from chemical suppliers, pool chemical suppliers, etc.). Scales are a necessary part of sucessful soapmaking and allows you to use any type of lye. Lye can be nasty if handled improperly. Lye (sodium hydroxide) is also known as caustic soda. Upon opening a container of lye, the lye crystals absorb water from the air, which can weaken the strength of the lye and cause it to form a solid lump. When not in use, keep lye closely capped. Lye reacts with some metals: iron, aluminum, zinc, and tin. Safe containers include heatproof stoneware, glass, enamel, stainless steel and plastic. Lye can be fatal if swallowed. Always keep it out of the hands of children. Lye can remove paint. If lye, lye/water or freshly-made soap splatters onto a painted surface, wipe it off immediately. Wash the area with water and detergent; wash it with clear water, then wipe it dry. Lye, lye/water and freshly-made soap can burn and irritate skin. Burns from lye are not instantaneous. It takes awhile for lye to irritate skin. Chances are you will notice if lye splashes on you. You'll notice itching before burning. Lye/water on skin is first noticed by a slippery feeling. Rinse your hands with vinegar and immediately rinse them with running water. Since lye can burn skin, you can imagine what it does to eyes. It's difficult to rinse your eyes while they're burning and you can't see. This painful and dangerous situation in entirely avoidable. Always wear eye protection! You may wonder why anyone wants to bathe with soap that contains something as harsh as lye. Well, the good news is that soap is *made* with lye, but soap doesn't *contain* lye. Lye reacts with fats, crating roughly three molecules soap and one molecule glycerin. The lye is no longer presnet--only great soap and glycerin. ------------------------------------------------- B) The equipment list # one 4-to-6 cup mixing container made of lye-resistant material (I use a stainless steel mixing bowl) # one heatproof container that holds at least 2 cups (I use a Pyrex measuring cup) # stainess steel, plastic or wooden spoon or a rubber spatula # two thermometers made of glass or stainless steel (candy and meat thermometers work well) # eye protection (wear sunglasses if you have to!) # rubber gloves (optional) # scale to weight the fats and lye # soap molds (any flexible plastic container works well) # a clock with a second hand or other type timer # wire whisk (optional) # pot holders or oven mitts # measuring spoons ---------------------------------------------------- C) The procedure 1) Put the fats in a lye-resistant container and place a glass or stainless steel thermometer into the fats. Be sure the thermometer doesn't touch the bottom of the container and give a false reading. Heat the fats and optional ingredients to the temperature specified in the recipe. 2) Put on eye protection and rubber gloves. 3) Dissolve the lye in cold water (use distilled water if your water is hard) and wait for it to reach the temperature specified in the recipe. Use a heat-proof container to measure the amount of cold water (70 to 75 degrees F) specified in the recipe. Cold water is important. If you add lye to hot or boiling water, the water could "boil-up" out of the container; if you add lye to *really* cold water, the lye/water might not reach the high temperatures required to make some recipes. Stir the water and slowly add the lye. The water will get hot and turn cloudy. Continue to stir until the lye dissolves. Don't breathe or intentionally smell the fumes coming from the cup because they are quite "chokey." If you wait too long to stir the water, the lye could harden in the bottom of the container. This is not a problem. You can still sitr it, but it will be more difficult. Add a glass or stainless steel thermometer to the lye/water and wait until it reaches the temperature specified in the recipe. Temperatures for making soap aren't critical. For small one-pound batches, temperatures from 120 to 150 degrees F usually work well. 4) When both the fat and the lye/water reach the temperature specified in the recipe, add the lye/water to the fat. I's sometimes a balancing act to get the fat mixture and the lye/water mxiture to specific temperatures at the same time. Never place lye/water in a microwave (the cup could break). It takes lye/water longer to cool than it takes fat to heat. Most soapmakers wait for the lye/water to cool to about five degrees above the desired temperature, then heat the fat. When both the lye/water and the fat are within five degrees of the temperatures specified in the recipe, use a pot holder and move the bowl to a sink (to contain splatters). Slowly pour the lye/water into the fats while stirring. 5) Stir the soap until it "traces." When lye, water and fat first combine, the mixture is thin and watery. Gradually, as the lye and fat react chemically to form soap, the mixture thickens and turns opaque. "Tracing" is a term to describe the consistency (thickness) of soap when it's ready to pour into molds. To test for tracing: a. Drip some soap onto the surface of the soap in the stirring bowl. It should leave a "trace" or small mound. b. Draw a line in the soap with a spoon or rubber spatula. If a "trace" of the line remains for a few seconds, the soap has traced. Tracing is easy to recognize, yet it causes new soapmakers a lot of worry. Relax and know that the soap will trace eventually. Just stir the soap constantly for the first 15 minutes or so, then stir the soap every fifteen minutes until it thickens and traces, no matter how long it takes. 6) After the soap traces, add up to one tablespoon essential oil (if desired) and stir a few minutes longer to incorporate the oil. 7) Pour the soap into molds and wait for it to harden. 8) Unmold the soap, Soap is still harsh when it's time to remove it from the molds. Put on rubber gloves and press the back of each mold compartment to release the soap. It's a lot like removing ice cubes from a tray. Sometimes the soap doesn't release easily from the mold. To overcome this problem, leave the soap in a freezer for a few hours. Freezing soap causes it to contract slightly, becom hard and release from the plastic mold. 9) Wait the time specified in a recipe for the soap to "age." (usually 3 weeks). During the aging time the pH of the soap decreased (the soap becomes mild) and the bars harden. It's a good idea to write the following information on a piece of paper and place it with the soap: the date you made the soap, the date the aging time is over, and the recipe name. 10) Step 10 is *enjoy your soap!* As soap ages, a fine, white powder may appear on the surface. This is soda ash (sodium carbonate) formed by a reaction of lye with carbon dioxide in air. This white powder is mostly on the surface exposed to air while the soap was in the molds. Soap that contains wax develops little or no soda ash. There are three ways to deal with soda ash: a. Try to prevent it. Immediately after pouring soap into molds, cover the soap with plastic wrap or waxed paper. Press the wrap or paper onto the surface of the soap to prevent air contact. b. Cut it away. Overfill the molds slightly. Later, when the soap hardens, take a knife and cut the soap level with the mold. This also cuts away the soda ash. c. Wash it away. Wait until the soap ages and hardens. Wash the powder away by rubbing the soap with your hands under running water or by rubbing the soap over a wet dishcloth. Set the soap aside to dry----then, *enjoy your soap!* ----------------------------------------------------- D. Herbal soap You can replace the water in soap recipes with herbal tea, but to be honest, most of the properties (color and fragrance) are lost. The best way to use herbs in soap is to add dry, finely powdered herbs to the fats before adding the lye/water. Use anywhere from 1 tablespoon to 1/4 cup dried herbs to 1 lb soap. Coarsly ground herbs should be restricted to about 1 or 2 tablespoons per lb soap because they contribute a coarseness to the soap that sometimes makes it uncomfortable during use. The nicest way to add properties of herbs to soap is the addition of pure essential oils. Use anywhere from 1 teaspoon to 2 tablespoons essential oil per lb soap (depending on the strength of the oil). Color is an illusive thing as far as soap is concerned. Natural colors can be obtained by adding 2 tablespoons red clay, calendula petals and strong, true color can be obtained from Pourette's dye recommended for soap. Use up to 1/8 teaspoon per lb soap. --------------------------------------------------- E. Superfatting soap The following recipes have the exact amount of lye to make soap that contains very little excess fat. This soap leaves skin perfectly clean and smooth feeling. Some people like excess fat in recipes. For this I recommend 2 to 4 tablespoons castor oil added when the soap traces. Castor oil is emollient and contributes to soap lather. ----------------------------------------------------- F. Soapmakers supply list (United States) Barker Enterprises, Inc. 15106 10th Ave SW Seattle WA 98166 Telephone: 206-244-1870 retail/wholesale: waxes, molds and candle dye (which works for soap) Chem Lab Supplies 1060 Ortega Way, Unit C Placentia CA 92670 Telephone 714 630-7902 Fax 714-630-3553 retail: pH kits, electronic scales, lye Hagenow Laboratories, Inc. 1302 Washington St Manitowoc WI 54220 No telephone, correspond by mail and request catalog lye, waxes, clays, essential oils, thermometers and pH kits Liberty Natural Products 8120 SE Stark St Portland OR 97215 1-800-289-8427 $50 minimum order retail/wholesale same price essential oils, soapmaking fats, herbs, clays, etc. K & W Popcorn 710 E 24th St Trenton MO 64683 Telephone 816-359-2030 retail only: coconut oil 5 gallons (will ship) Lorann Oils 4518 Aurelius Rd Lansing MI 48909 Telephone 1-800-248-1302 retail/wholesale: essential oils, fats, candy molds, waxes Pourette Soapmaking Supplies 6910 Roosevelt Way NE Seattle WA 98115 Telephone 206-525-4488 retail/wholesale molds, dye, wax (request *soapmaking* price list as it's different than their regular catalog, which contains candle molds) Sunfeather Soapmaking Supply HCR 84 Box 60-A Potsdam NY 13676 Telephone 315-265-3648 retail only: lye, fats, soap fragrance ----------------------------------------------------- G) Now, the moment you've been waiting for--the recipes! copyright 1995 in "Soap Recipes" by Elaine C. White All rights reserved. All ounces (oz) are determined by weight unless otherwise stated. Lye is "sodium hydroxide" granular or flake form. Pure Soap 16 oz coconut oil 2.8 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 3 weeks Pure Soap II (softer style) 16 oz weight coconut oil 2.9 oz lye 3/4 cup water (6 fluid ounces) Oil room temp Mix and use lye Estimated tracing 1 to 2 hours When the soap traces, add 4 tablespoons castor oil to superfat the soap. Makes a smoother texture. Leave the soap in the mold 24 hours, freeze 3 hours, then remove from the mold. Age: 3 weeks. Soap III 6 oz coconut oil 6 oz olive oil 5 oz vegetable shortening 2.6 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 4 weeks Soap IV 9 oz vegetable shortening 4 oz coconut oil 3 oz lard 2.4 oz lye 3/4 cup water (6 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 24 hours Age: 3 weeks Soap V 10 oz vegetable shortening 6 oz coconut oil 2.4 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 4 weeks Soap VI & VII 16 oz lard or beef tallow 2.3 oz lye 3/4 cup water (6 fluid ounces) Estimated tracing 45 minutes Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 24 hours Age: 3 weeks Soap VIII Beeswax Castile 13 oz weight olive oil 2 oz beeswax 1 oz palm oil 2.1 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) (melt the beeswax with the fats) Fat and lye/water temperature about 150 degrees F Tracing time: about 12 minutes FAST! Time in molds: 48 hours Place the soap in a freezer for 3 hours, then remove it from the molds Age: 6 to 8 weeks for the bars to harden Beeswax Soap IX (follow directions at "Soap VIII) 16 oz weight olive oil 2 oz weight beeswax 2.2 oz weight lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) -------------------------------------------------------- I really hope you feel confident enought to prepare your first batch of soap. Good luck and happy lathering. Best regards, Elaine C. White -------------------------------------------------------- These instructions are condensed from "Soap Recipes: Seventy tried-and-true ways to make modern soap with herbs, beeswax and vegetable oils" Copyright 1995 Elaine C. White. All rights reserved. International Standard Book Number 0-9637539-5-9 The book is available from: Valley Hills Press, 1864 Ridgeland Drive, Starkville MS 39759 USA. In the US telephone 800-323-7102. Other countries call 601-323-7100. Contact EWhiteVHP@aol.com for more information. end -=-=-=-=- and here's some more: - (288) Tue 15 Feb 94 10:50 By: Tom Keller Re: Soap Making Someone queried here about soapmaking recently. I found this: "SOAP. Making It, Using It, Enjoying It." by Ann Sela Bramson, Workman Publishing Company, NY NY, 1972 It talks about all sorts of soapmaking techniques, covers vegetable oil based soaps as well as tallow based soaps, and offers excellent safety tips. I have absolutely no idea if it is still in print. Hope this helps. * Origin: Sonoma Online, HOMEPOWR Echo (707)545-0746-HST\V32b (1:125/7) (328) Sat 19 Feb 94 15:22 By: Kim Hay Re: Home Made Products I have a recipe for homemade soap: To: All Soapmakers Subject: Soap recipes ----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.00 Title: Mild Coconut Soap; and Mild Milk and Honey Soap Categories: Tightwad, Crafts, Soap Yield: 30 bars ---------------------MILD COCONUT SOAP-------------------------- 47 oz Olive oil 19 oz Coconut oil 27 oz Vegetable shortening 10 3/4 oz Lye 32 oz Lye ------------------MILD MILK AND HONEY SOAP----------------------- 44 oz Olive oil 17 oz Coconut oil 24 oz Solid vegetable shortening -like Crisco 10 3/4 oz Lye (one can) 32 oz Water 1 oz Powdered milk 1 oz Honey You will also need a large flat box lined with wax paper or a cloth; a long-handled wooden spoon and a thermometer that measures temperatures between 95 an 98 degrees accurately, like a dairy thermometer or candy thermometer. Put all the oils and shortening into a heavy enamel pot, not aluminum. Heat over low. When it is about half melted, take it off the stove. It's hot enough that the rest will melt. Now pour the ly and water into the jar. It sizzles and bubbles and is dangerous! Don't get it on your skin. Now place the bottle of lye solution in a sink or pan of cold water and the pan of fats in a sink or pan of cold water. Now you have to keep testing with the thermometer, watching to see when both the oils and the lye are between 95 and 98 degrees. Go back and forth, back and forth carefully. When both are in that range, have someone pour the lye solution slowly into the pot of fats as you steadily stir the fats in a circular mothion. You should be stirring as the lye is being added. I pour in the lye myself as I'm stirring, but it's a little tricky so you should get some help the first time. Now kee stirring slowly and steadily until the soap thickens, which won't be long. To test it's readiness to pour, lift the wooden spoon out of the mixture and drip it back onto the surface. Whenyoucn drip a little shape that stays there a moment before it disappears -- this is called tracing -- then the soap is ready to pour. Now por it inot your prepared box. cover it with a towl, now , and leave it alone for about 24 hours. You may peek gently once or twice! After 24 hours has passed, it is soap. You can cut it into nice bars now. But please wear rubber gloves because it still contains a lot of free lye which will burn your hands. After cutting, allow the soap to age and cure for 2 weeks to a month. Then it will be ready to use. Before you use it, wipe off the dusty powder that is on the surface of the soap, because it might damage your skin. The question people always ask me is, "Where do I get lye?" Lye is drain cleaner! Look closesly at the little red white and blue can of drain cleaner you buy at the grocery store. It says "100% lye" Red Devil is the most common brand. Coconut oil is available in health food stores and through food coops. It is also available throuwh Golden Meadows Herb Farm, address recources section. It is an expensive oil compratively, and it doesn't look like oil, it is solid like shortening. You cannot substitute one oil for another when making soap, because different oils saponify at different temperatures, that is, the temperatures at which the oil and lye become soap vary accorting to the type of oil. These are from the meal master series. Kim Hay Date: Sat, 22 Oct 94 18:39:13 GMT From: Nikki Locke Subject: Re: information request: lambsquarters (fwd) > Hi! For my B.Sc. (Agric)- horticulture undergraduate project I am examining > different seed treatments of lamb's quarters (Chenopodium album L.) in order to > obtain information for a better method to increase harvestable yield of > herbage. Yes herbage! > I am examining this plant as it is a suitable potherb and there is a market > for it (and it tastes good too!). > I am looking for information about: > - edible uses, culture, other uses (ie. cover crop, forage) Here is what the "Plants for a Future" plant database has to say about it ... Latin name: Chenopodium album Botanical references: 17 Family: Chenopodiaceae Common name: Fat hen Habit: Annual Deciduous/Evergreen: Height: 0.9 Width: 0.2 Hardyness: Range: Britain. Habitat: A common weed of cultivated g Soil: LMH Shade: N Moisture: M Well-drained: 0 Nitrogen fixer: 0 pH: ANB Acid: 0 Alkaline: 0 Saline: 0 Wind: Growth rate: Pollution: Poor soil: 0 Drought: 0 Wildlife: 0 Woodland: 0 Meadow: 0 Wall: 0 In leaf: Flowering time: 7 - 10 Seed ripens: 8 - 10 Flower Type: H Pollinators: Wind Self-fertile: Known hazards: The leaves and seeds of all members of this genus are more or less edible. However, many of the species in this genus contain saponins, though usually in quantities too small to do any harm. Although toxic, saponins are poorly absorbed by the body and most pass straight through without any problem. They are also broken down to a large extent in the cooking process. Saponins are found in many foods, such as some beans. The plants also contain some oxalic acid, which in large quantities can lock up some of the nutrients in the food, but they are very nutritious vegetables in reasonable quantities. There is also a report that very large quantities of the leaves have caused photosensitivity in some people[74]. Only the raw leaves can cause problems, and then only if large quantities are consumed[172]. Synonyms: C. reticulatum. Cultivation details: Succeeds on most soils, but dislikes shade[1, 200]. Prefers a moderately fertile soil[200]. In moderate amounts this plant is a good companion for potatoes, corn and cucurbits[20, 54]. Responds directly to the Mg content of the soil so it can be used as an indicator[114]. Occassionally cultivated as a food crop,[46] there is at least one named variety[183]. Called 'Magenta' in reference to the colour of its leaves, it is considered by some people to be the best tasting of all potherbs[183]. Edible uses: Leaves - raw or cooked[2, 4, 5, 9, 12, 20, 54, 62, 102]. A very acceptable spinach substitute[183]. The leaves are best not eaten raw, see notes at the top of the page[74]. The leaves are generally very nutritious but very large quantities can disturb the nervous system and cause gastric pain[74]. The leaves contain about 3.9% protein, 0.76% fat, 8.93% carbohydrate, 3% ash[179]. Edible seed - dried and ground into a meal and eaten raw or baked into a bread[[2, 4, 12, 14, 54, 102, 183]. The seed can also be sprouted and added to salads[183]. The seed is very fiddly to harvest and use due to its small size[9]. The seed should be soaked in water overnight and thoroughly rinsed before it is used in order to remove any saponins. Seeds contain about 49% carbohydrate, 16% protein, 7% ash, 5.88% ash[114, 179]. Young inflorescences - cooked[183]. Medicinal: Antiphlogistic, antirheumatic, odontalgic[172]. Uses notes: A green dye is obtained from the young shoots[99]. The crushed fresh roots are a mild soap substitute[106]. Propagation 1: Seed - sow spring in situ. Usually self-sows freely in most soils. Cultivars: - Heavy clay: 0 Last update:16/12/93 Record checked: - <><><><><><><><><> Here is a recipe for single bars of soap, so you can experiment with different scents or added ingredients and not end up with forty pounds of hateful stuff. 1/2 C cold soft water 2 heaping Tbsp commercial lye 1 C melted beef tallow Slowly add the lye to the water, then bring both lye solution and tallow to about body temperature. Combine the two in a glass bowl and mix slowly and steadily with an eggbeater until the consistency is that of sour cream. Pour mixture into mold and cover with a blanket or cardboard. After 24 hours,remove from the mold and let it age in open air for two to four weeks before using. I don't remember where this recipe came from (I wrote it into my recipe book) and I have never tried it, but I do have methods and recipes for making lye, rendering fat, and specialty soaps like grease remover, vegetable soap (no animal fat), scented soaps, etc. Let me know if you're interested! -- Nicole From Nicole_Okun@mindlink.bc.caTue Apr 18 13:32:01 1995 Date: Mon, 15 Aug 94 20:37:13 -0700 From: Nicole Okun Newsgroups: misc.rural Subject: Soap Recipes (finally!) Well, several people have requested the soap recipes I alluded to in an earlier post, so here they are. Once again, my disclaimer: I haven't actually tried these myself. A few notes to start: 1. Use soft water (add borax to hard water, or collect rain water) 2. Line molds with plastic or grease them with Vaseline 3. Keep some vinegar handy in case you splash lye on yourself (it will neutralize the lye) The Ingredients Castile Soap 1 lb 9 oz olive oil 3 lb 10 oz tallow 10 1/2 oz lye 2 pt water Avocado Soap - same as above, but substitute 6 oz of avocado oil for 6 oz of olive oil (this would be incredibly expensive in my part of the world!) Coconut & Olive Oil Soap 1 lb 7 oz olive oil 1 lb 7 oz coconut oil 1 lb 7 oz tallow 11 1/2 oz lye 2 pt water Standard Soap 13 oz lye 2 1/2 pt water 3 lb tallow 3 lb lard Cold Cream Soap Mix 2 oz of cold cream into standard soap just before pouring into molds Lanolin Soap Add 2 oz liquid anhydrous lanolin into the standard recipe before molding Milk & Honey Soap Mix 1 oz powdered milk, 1 oz honey into soap while still liquid Rose Water Soap Substitute 4 oz of rosewater for plain water when mixing the lye The Method Pour cold water into a non-metallic pot, then add the lye slowly while stirring with a wooden spoon. The reaction between the lye and water will heat it almost to boiling. Let it cool to room temperature. Bring both the lye solution and the fat to 95 - 98F in separate pots. Stir the fat, then add the lye solution in a steady stream while stirring. The mixture will turn opaque and brownish, then lighten. The consistency should be like sour cream. If the mixture separates, it can usually be reclaimed by slowly heating it to 140F and stirring gently all the while. Remove from heat and stir until it turns into soap. The soap is ready to mold if you let a few drops of it fall on the surface of the mixture and they are supported for a moment or two before sinking into the soap. Add any scents, colours, extra ingredients now, then pour into prepared molds. Cover molds with cardboard and leave in a warm place. After 24 hours, unmold the soap and leave it uncovered for two to four weeks to age. Scents Cinnamon 6 tsp oil of cinnamon 1/2 tsp oil of bergamot 1/2 tsp oil of sassafras Savon au Bouquet 4 1/2 tsp oil of bergamot 1/4 tsp oil of clove 1/2 tsp oil of thyme 1/2 tsp oil of sassafras 1/2 tsp oil of neroli Grease Removing Soap Mix 1 oz of almond meal, oatmeal or cornmeal to the castile soap recipe before molding. Vegetable Soap 2 lb 10 oz oilive oil 1 lb 7 oz Crisco 2 pt water 1 lb coconut oil 10 1/4 oz lye <><><><><><><> Here is a recipe for single bars of soap, so you can experiment with different scents or added ingredients and not end up with forty pounds of hateful stuff. 1/2 C cold soft water 2 heaping Tbsp commercial lye 1 C melted beef tallow Slowly add the lye to the water, then bring both lye solution and tallow to about body temperature. Combine the two in a glass bowl and mix slowly and steadily with an eggbeater until the consistency is that of sour cream. Pour mixture into mold and cover with a blanket or cardboard. After 24 hours,remove from the mold and let it age in open air for two to four weeks before using. I don't remember where this recipe came from (I wrote it into my recipe book) and I have never tried it, but I do have methods and recipes for making lye, rendering fat, and specialty soaps like grease remover, vegetable soap (no animal fat), scented soaps, etc. Let me know if you're interested! -- Nicole From ewhitevhp@aol.com Mon May 15 23:12:36 EDT 1995 Article: 12099 of alt.folklore.herbs Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!rochester!udel!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: ewhitevhp@aol.com (EWhiteVHP) Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs Subject: soap molds, mixer & newsletter Date: 13 May 1995 14:04:08 -0400 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 46 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3p2sao$kq7@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: ewhitevhp@aol.com (EWhiteVHP) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Here's the scoop on some new soap molds available. Seems the designs are copied from Pourette's (exact size, shape, etc). The difference is that this company sells only one type mold and the mold contains six designs: hexagon, oval, round, rectangular, heart and square. The plastic is thick, white and seems very substancial. The man selling these molds says he's used them in the freezer and he has used them for about 4 months with no damage. He has lower prices than the following, but said if anyone wanted to see the molds to send $7 for 2. This includes shipping, etc. He doesn't accept credit cards at this time, so the telephone number is just if you have a question. Soapmaking Kits P O Bx 6751 Lee's Summit MO 64064 Telephone 816-525-0664 Also received samples of the world's first soap newsletter, "Soapmaking Today". I think the editor, Robert Jones, did a pretty good job. He announced "The First Great Soap Swap." Seems readers send 16 pieces of soap (at least 1 ounce each) to him along with the recipe and $3. He coordinates the packages and sends each person 16 different types of soap with recipes. Sounds like a NRR huh? He said he'd publish the best recipes in future newsletters. The newsletter also described and pictured a soap mixer called "The White Tornado" It holds 4 gallons of soap, stirs it and costs $449.95! (which includes shipping and handling, thank goodness). He says "The Soap Blender" makes soap with better texture than hand-stirred soap. The newsletter also contains tips and ideas for home-based businesses. For a sample, send $5 and request a sample copy of "Soapmaking Today" from: Robert Jones 110 SE Greystone Lee's Summit MO 64063 This is the same man who said he's working on a "soap slicer" and would let us know when it's ready. Oh, one more interesting tidbit from the newsletter. He says "You do not have to label your soap products with ingredients" thanks to lobbiests with the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletry and Fragrance Association). He said you "do" have to list ingredients if you claim your product to be a "dandruff shampoo" or a "skin softener" etc. I'm just passing info along and don't know if this guy "knows his stuff" or not. Elaine From karyn.siegel-maier@kotl.uu.ids.net Mon May 15 23:11:50 EDT 1995 Article: 12109 of alt.folklore.herbs Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.sprintlink.net!paperboy.ids.net!mailman!karyn.siegel-maier Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs In-Reply-To: r-egg@tamu.edu Subject: Re: Soapmaking From: karyn.siegel-maier@kotl.uu.ids.net Message-ID: Date: Tue, 9 May 95 15:36:00 EST Organization: Knights Of The Light BBS Lines: 5 I've recently launched a small press company which has several publications available pertaining to the use of herbs. One of my booklets not only gives the procedure and recipes for various soaps, but includes dozens of recipes for making many cosmetics/toiletries. If you're interested in this publication (or would like a list of other titles) let me know. From tlshay@magpage.com Tue Sep 24 22:55:38 EDT 1996 Article: 32764 of misc.rural Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!sun-net.ncren.net!rutgers!news.sgi.com!spool.mu.edu!newspump.sol.net!www.nntp.primenet.com!nntp.primenet.com!cs.utexas.edu!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in3.uu.net!news.alt.net!newspost1.alt.net!usenet From: Terry Shay Newsgroups: misc.rural Subject: Soapmaking Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 19:07:05 -0700 Organization: Altopia Corp. - Affordable Usenet Access - http://www.alt.net Lines: 8 Message-ID: <323E07C9.59C0@magpage.com> Reply-To: tlshay@magpage.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win16; I) If anyone has an interest in making their own soap, I supply soapmaking items. I have a pretty good list, and I also can supply you with all kinds of book titles that deal with soapmaking, and other related things. Just Email me if you're interested. Terry (288) Tue 15 Feb 94 10:50 By: Tom Keller Re: Soap Making Someone queried here about soapmaking recently. I found this: "SOAP. Making It, Using It, Enjoying It." by Ann Sela Bramson, Workman Publishing Company, NY NY, 1972 It talks about all sorts of soapmaking techniques, covers vegetable oil based soaps as well as tallow based soaps, and offers excellent safety tips. I have absolutely no idea if it is still in print. Hope this helps. * Origin: Sonoma Online, HOMEPOWR Echo (707)545-0746-HST\V32b (1:125/7) (328) Sat 19 Feb 94 15:22 By: Kim Hay Re: Home Made Products I have a recipe for homemade soap: To: All Soapmakers Subject: Soap recipes ----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.00 Title: Mild Coconut Soap; and Mild Milk and Honey Soap Categories: Tightwad, Crafts, Soap Yield: 30 bars ---------------------MILD COCONUT SOAP-------------------------- 47 oz Olive oil 19 oz Coconut oil 27 oz Vegetable shortening 10 3/4 oz Lye 32 oz Lye ------------------MILD MILK AND HONEY SOAP----------------------- 44 oz Olive oil 17 oz Coconut oil 24 oz Solid vegetable shortening -like Crisco 10 3/4 oz Lye (one can) 32 oz Water 1 oz Powdered milk 1 oz Honey You will also need a large flat box lined with wax paper or a cloth; a long-handled wooden spoon and a thermometer that measures temperatures between 95 an 98 degrees accurately, like a dairy thermometer or candy thermometer. Put all the oils and shortening into a heavy enamel pot, not aluminum. Heat over low. When it is about half melted, take it off the stove. It's hot enough that the rest will melt. Now pour the ly and water into the jar. It sizzles and bubbles and is dangerous! Don't get it on your skin. Now place the bottle of lye solution in a sink or pan of cold water and the pan of fats in a sink or pan of cold water. Now you have to keep testing with the thermometer, watching to see when both the oils and the lye are between 95 and 98 degrees. Go back and forth, back and forth carefully. When both are in that range, have someone pour the lye solution slowly into the pot of fats as you steadily stir the fats in a circular mothion. You should be stirring as the lye is being added. I pour in the lye myself as I'm stirring, but it's a little tricky so you should get some help the first time. Now kee stirring slowly and steadily until the soap thickens, which won't be long. To test it's readiness to pour, lift the wooden spoon out of the mixture and drip it back onto the surface. Whenyoucn drip a little shape that stays there a moment before it disappears -- this is called tracing -- then the soap is ready to pour. Now por it inot your prepared box. cover it with a towl, now , and leave it alone for about 24 hours. You may peek gently once or twice! After 24 hours has passed, it is soap. You can cut it into nice bars now. But please wear rubber gloves because it still contains a lot of free lye which will burn your hands. After cutting, allow the soap to age and cure for 2 weeks to a month. Then it will be ready to use. Before you use it, wipe off the dusty powder that is on the surface of the soap, because it might damage your skin. The question people always ask me is, "Where do I get lye?" Lye is drain cleaner! Look closesly at the little red white and blue can of drain cleaner you buy at the grocery store. It says "100% lye" Red Devil is the most common brand. Coconut oil is available in health food stores and through food coops. It is also available throuwh Golden Meadows Herb Farm, address recources section. It is an expensive oil compratively, and it doesn't look like oil, it is solid like shortening. You cannot substitute one oil for another when making soap, because different oils saponify at different temperatures, that is, the temperatures at which the oil and lye become soap vary accorting to the type of oil. These are from the meal master series. Thank you again moderator Kim Hay * Origin: * Moonlight Cascade**RR#2 Perth Road**613-353-7369 * (1:249/133) From ewhitevhp@aol.com Mon May 15 23:06:14 EDT 1995 Article: 12159 of alt.folklore.herbs Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: ewhitevhp@aol.com (EWhiteVHP) Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs Subject: Soapmaking 7 pgs Date: 11 May 1995 12:07:17 -0400 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 440 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3otcnl$bnk@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: ewhitevhp@aol.com (EWhiteVHP) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Here are about 7 pages (printed) of soapmaking instructions and a shameless plug for my book. Hope you enjoy. These are the same instructions available >from America Online's library. Feel free to pass the information along to others. Just keep the copyright information included and I'll be happy. Best regards, Elaine ------------------------------------------------------- So, you want to make soap? Good! I'll try my best to tell you how. I'm Elaine White, author of "Soap Recipes: Seventy tried-and-true ways to make modern soap with herbs, beeswax and vegetable oils" These instructions are very condensed and cannot possibly contain the details included in "Soap Recipes." Nonetheless, I believe you will have a good overview after you read these instructions. Once you learn basic safety precautions, soapmaking procedures and termonology, you will be able to make soap from any recipe. The outline for these instructions is: A) Safety precautions in handling lye, lye/water and freshly-made soap B) The equipment list C) The procedure of combining ingredients and molding soap D) Herbal soap E) Superfatting soap F) US Soapmaking suppliers G) Soap recipes Once you read these instructions and if possible, join the soapmakers at America Online. Go to "The Exchange" click on "Crafts and sewing" then "other crafts" and you will find "soapmaking." AOL gives me free time online to help soapmakers and I often join the discussions. I am glad to help you in any way. --------------------------------------------------- A) Locating lye and safety precautions in handling it. (The following may frighten you, but I promise that thousands of people make soap everyday without mishap. You need to know all the dangers present in order to avoid trouble. If you can get past the following warnings--you are destined to make soap!) Look where drain cleaners are sold and buy 100% lye (Red Devil is one brand). Don't bother looking at liquid drain cleaners and don't try Draino (it contains metal). If you aren't sure the product is 100% lye, then order lye from a soapmaking or chemical supplier (addresses listed). Most good soap recipes list lye by weight for accuracy: lye in granular form (drain cleaner) measures differently than lye in flake form (the form of lye from laboratory chemical suppliers, pool chemical suppliers, etc). Scales are a necessary part of sucessful soapmaking and allows you to use any type of lye. Lye can be nasty if handled improperly. Lye (sodium hydroxide) is also known as caustic soda. Upon opening a container of lye, the lye crystals absorb water from the air, which can weaken the strength of the lye and cause it to form a solid lump. When not in use, keep lye closely capped. Lye reacts with some metals: aluminum, zinc, and tin. Safe containers include heatproof stoneware, glass, enamel, stainless steel and plastic. Lye can be fatal if swallowed. Lye can remove paint. If lye, lye/water or freshly-made soap splatters onto a painted surface, wipe it off immediately. Wash the area with water and detergent; wash it with clear water, then wipe it dry. Lye, lye/water and freshly-made soap can burn and irritate skin. You'll notice itching before burning. Lye/water on skin is first noticed by a slippery feeling. Rinse your hands with vinegar and immediately rinse them with running water. Since lye can burn skin, you can imagine what it does to eyes. It's difficult to rinse your eyes while they're burning and you can't see. This painful and dangerous situation in entirely avoidable. Always wear eye protection! You may wonder why anyone wants to bathe with soap that contains something as harsh as lye. Well, the good news is that soap is *made* with lye, but soap doesn't *contain* lye. Lye reacts with fats, creating roughly three molecules soap and one molecule glycerin. The lye is no longer present--only great soap and glycerin. *NOTE: If you have small children, keep lye (and essential oils) in a *locked* cabinet. Lye/water sitting at the edge of a counter can easily be reached by children and even swallowed. Drinking lye/water is like drinking liquid fire and anyone ingesting lye/water should immediately be taken to an emergency room for treatment! Like I said: everyday, thousands of people make soap without mishap. In order to do so, you must be aware of all safety hazards. Children and feeble-minded people should not be in the soapmaking area or have access to stored soapmaking ingredients, especially lye and essential oil. ------------------------------------------------- B) The equipment list: # one 4-to-6 cup mixing container made of lye-resistant material (I use a stainless steel mixing bowl) # one heatproof container that holds at least 2 cups (I use a Pyrex measuring cup) # stainess steel, plastic, wooden spoon or a rubber spatula # two thermometers made of glass or stainless steel (candy and meat thermometers work well) # eye protection (wear sunglasses if you have to!) # rubber gloves (optional) # scale to weight the fats and lye # soap molds (any flexible plastic container works well) # a clock with a second hand or other type timer # wire whisk (optional) # pot holders or oven mitts # measuring spoons ---------------------------------------------------- C) The procedure 1) Put the fats in a lye-resistant container and place a glass or stainless steel thermometer into the fats. Be sure the thermometer doesn't touch the bottom of the container and give a false reading. Heat the fats and optional ingredients to the temperature specified in the recipe. 2) Put on eye protection and rubber gloves. 3) Use a heat-proof container to measure the amount of cold water (70 to 75 degrees F) specified in the recipe. Cold water is important. If you add lye to hot or boiling water, the water could "boil-up" out of the container; if you add lye to *really* cold water, the lye/water might not reach the high temperatures required to make some recipes. Stir the water and slowly add the lye. The water will get hot and turn cloudy. Continue to stir until the lye dissolves. Don't breathe or intentionally smell the fumes coming from the cup because they are quite "chokey." If you wait too long to stir the water, the lye could harden in the bottom of the container. This is not a problem. You can still sitr it, but it will be more difficult. Add a glass or stainless steel thermometer to the lye/water and wait until it reaches the temperature specified in the recipe. (Note: Some people are extremely sensitive to fumes which come from the lye/water. The fumes which come from small batches (1 pound) isn't a problem. Be aware than larger amounts of lye (larger batches) creates more fumes, which, with prolonged contact, can burn eyes and skin of sensitive people.) 4) When both the fat and the lye/water reach the temperature specified in the recipe, add the lye/water to the fat. I's sometimes a balancing act to get the fat mixture and the lye/water mxiture to specific temperatures at the same time. Never place lye/water in a microwave (the cup could break). It takes lye/water longer to cool than it takes fat to heat. Most soapmakers wait for the lye/water to cool to about five degrees above the desired temperature, then heat the fat. When both the lye/water and the fat are within five degrees of the temperatures specified in the recipe, use a pot holder and move the bowl to a sink (to contain splatters). Slowly pour the lye/water into the fats while stirring. (Note: Temperatures for small one-pound batches of soap poured into individual molds aren't critical. As long as the lye/water and fats are between 120 and 140 degrees F you will have good success. Larger batches or batches poured into a single mold, require the lower temperature range.) 5) Stir the soap until it "traces." When lye, water and fat first combine, the mixture is thin and watery. Gradually, as the lye and fat react chemically to form soap, the mixture thickens and turns opaque. "Tracing" is a term to describe the consistency (thickness) of soap when it's ready to pour into molds. To test for tracing: a. Drip some soap onto the surface of the soap in the stirring bowl. It should leave a "trace" or small mound. b. Draw a line in the soap with a spoon or rubber spatula. If a "trace" of the line remains for a few seconds, the soap has traced. Tracing is easy to recognize, yet it causes new soapmakers a lot of worry. Relax and know that the soap will trace eventually. Just stir the soap constantly for the first 15 minutes or so, then stir the soap every fifteen minutes until it thickens and traces, no matter how long it takes. 6) After the soap traces, add up to one tablespoon essential oil (if desired) and stir a few minutes longer to incorporate the oil. About the only soap that remains totally scent-free is the Pure Soap Recipe that follows. Other fats result in soap that has a "fatty lye" smell. Essentials oils are necessary for a pleasant-smelling product. 7) Pour the soap into molds and wait for it to harden. 8) Unmold the soap, Soap is still harsh when it's time to remove it from the molds. Put on rubber gloves and press the back of each mold compartment to release the soap. It's a lot like removing ice cubes from a tray. Sometimes the soap doesn't release easily from the mold. To overcome this problem, leave the soap in a freezer for a few hours. Freezing soap causes it to contract slightly, becom hard and release from the plastic mold. 9) Wait the time specified in a recipe for the soap to "age." (usually 3 weeks). During the aging time the pH of the soap decreased (the soap becomes mild) and the bars harden. It's a good idea to write the following information on a piece of paper and place it with the soap: the date you made the soap, the date the aging time is over, and the recipe name. 10) Step 10 is *enjoy your soap!* As soap ages, a fine, white powder may appear on the surface. This is soda ash (sodium carbonate) formed by a reaction of lye with carbon dioxide in air. This white powder is mostly on the surface exposed to air while the soap was in the molds. Soap that contains wax develops little or no soda ash. There are three ways to deal with soda ash: a. Try to prevent it. Immediately after pouring soap into molds, cover the soap with plastic wrap or waxed paper. Press the wrap or paper onto the surface of the soap to prevent air contact. b. Cut it away. Overfill the molds slightly. Later, when the soap hardens, take a knife and cut the soap level with the mold. This also cuts away the soda ash. c. Wash it away. Wait until the soap ages and hardens. Wash the powder away by rubbing the soap with your hands under running water or by rubbing the soap over a wet dishcloth. Set the soap aside to dry----then, *enjoy your soap!* ----------------------------------------------------- D. Herbal soap You can replace the water in soap recipes with herbal tea, but to be honest, most of the properties (color and fragrance) are lost. The best way to use herbs in soap is to add dry, finely powdered herbs to the fats before adding the lye/water. Use anywhere from 1 tablespoon to 1/4 cup dried herbs to 1 lb soap. Coarsly ground herbs should be restricted to about 1 or 2 tablespoons per lb soap because they contribute a coarseness to the soap that sometimes makes it uncomfortable during use. The nicest way to add properties of herbs to soap is the addition of pure essential oils. Most soap develops a "lye/fat" odor, which essentail oil prevents. Use anywhere from 1 teaspoon to 2 tablespoons essential oil per lb soap (depending on the strength of the oil). Color is an illusive thing as far as soap is concerned. Natural colors can be obtained by adding 2 tablespoons red clay, calendula petals, or palm oil from Lorann Oils (yellow). Strong, true color can be obtained from Pourette's dye recommended for soap. Use up to 1/8 teaspoon Pourette dye per lb soap. --------------------------------------------------- E. Superfatting soap The following recipes have the exact amount of lye to make soap that contains very little excess fat. This soap leaves skin perfectly clean and smooth feeling. Some people like excess fat in recipes. For this I recommend 2 to 4 tablespoons castor oil added when the soap traces. Castor oil is emollient and contributes to soap lather. Adding castor oil after tracing along with 1 tablespoon essential oil also seems to help retain the soap fragrance. ----------------------------------------------------- F. Soapmaker's supply list (United States) Barker's Enterprises, Inc. 15106 10th Ave SW Seattle WA 98166 Telephone: 206-244-1870 retail/wholesale: waxes, molds and candle dye (which works for soap) Chem Lab Supplies 1060 Ortega Way, Unit C Placentia CA 92670 Telephone 714 630-7902 Fax 714-630-3553 retail: pH kits, electronic scales, lye Hagenow Laboratories, Inc. 1302 Washington St Manitowoc WI 54220 No telephone, correspond by mail and request catalog lye, waxes, clays, essential oils, thermometers and pH kits Liberty Natural Products 8120 SE Stark St Portland OR 97215 1-800-289-8427 $50 minimum order retail/wholesale same price essential oils, soapmaking fats, herbs, clays, etc. K & W Popcorn 710 E 24th St Trenton MO 64683 Telephone 816-359-2030 retail only: coconut oil 5 gallons (will ship) Lorann Oils 4518 Aurelius Rd Lansing MI 48909 Telephone 1-800-248-1302 retail/wholesale: essential oils, fats, candy molds, waxes Pourette Soapmaking Supplies 6910 Roosevelt Way NE Seattle WA 98115 Telephone 1-800-888-WICK (9425) retail/wholesale molds, dye, wax (request *soapmaking* price list as it's different than their regular catalog, which contains candle molds) Sunfeather Soapmaking Supply HCR 84 Box 60-A Potsdam NY 13676 Telephone 315-265-3648 retail only: lye, fats, soap fragrance ----------------------------------------------------- G) Now, the moment you've been waiting for--the recipes! copyright 1995 in "Soap Recipes" by Elaine C. White All rights reserved. All ounces (oz) are determined by weight unless otherwise stated. Lye is "sodium hydroxide" granular or flake form. Pure Soap (the only recipe I've discovered that remains scent-free and doesn't require essential oils) Good for washing dishes, delicate laundry, etc. Great lather. 16 oz coconut oil 2.8 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Estimated tracing time: 1 1/2 hours Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 3 weeks Pure Soap Shampoo Bar 16 oz weight coconut oil 2.9 oz lye 3/4 cup water (6 fluid ounces) Oil room temp Mix and use lye Estimated tracing 1 to 2 hours When the soap traces, add 4 tablespoons castor oil to superfat the soap and to make a smoother-textured bar. Leave the soap in the mold 24 hours, freeze 3 hours, then remove from the mold. Age: 3 weeks. Essential oil is optional for this recipe. The soap will remain scent-free without it. Soap III 6 oz coconut oil 6 oz olive oil 5 oz vegetable shortening 2.6 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 4 weeks Soap IV 9 oz vegetable shortening 4 oz coconut oil 3 oz lard 2.4 oz lye 3/4 cup water (6 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 24 hours Age: 3 weeks Soap V 10 oz vegetable shortening 6 oz coconut oil 2.4 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) Fat and lye/temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 4 weeks Soap VI & VII 16 oz lard or beef tallow 2.3 oz lye 3/4 cup water (6 fluid ounces) Estimated tracing 45 minutes Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 24 hours Age: 3 weeks Soap VIII Beeswax Castile 13 oz weight olive oil 2 oz beeswax 1 oz palm oil 2.1 oz lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) (melt the beeswax with the fats) Fat and lye/water temperature about 150 degrees F Tracing time: about 12 minutes FAST! Time in molds: 48 hours Place the soap in a freezer for 3 hours, then remove it from the molds Age: 6 to 8 weeks for the bars to harden Beeswax Soap IX (follow directions at "Soap VIII") 16 oz weight olive oil 2 oz weight beeswax 2.2 oz weight lye 1 cup water (8 fluid ounces) -------------------------------------------------------- I really hope you feel confident enought to prepare your first batch of soap. Good luck and happy lathering. Best regards, Elaine C. White -------------------------------------------------------- These instructions are based on a book:"Soap Recipes: Seventy tried-and-true ways to make modern soap with herbs, beeswax and vegetable oils" by Elaine C. White International Standard Book Number 0-9637539-5-9 The book will be available in bookstores June, 1995 and is available now from: Valley Hills Press 1864 Ridgeland Drive Starkville MS 39759 USA $23.95 US funds includes price and shipping to US and Canada $28.95 US funds includes price and Air Mail shipping to other countries 1-800-323-7102 Visa/Master Cards accepted Toll-free number good in US only, other countries call 601-323-7100 (This is a voice line and fax.) Valley Hills Press specializes in craft how-to information regarding honey and beeswax products. They will send a free brochure about this book and other products: MS Beekeepers Honey Cookbook, soapmaking kit, mead/honey wine kit, "Super Formulas" (book tells how to make 360 useful products that contain honey and beeswax). Free brochure. Just ask. end