From photo@matt.ksu.ksu.edu Thu Jun 16 23:32:23 EDT 1994
Article: 35497 of rec.gardens
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From: photo@matt.ksu.ksu.edu (Murray Ryan Pickard)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: pond faq
Date: 14 Jun 1994 17:29:51 -0500
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Greetings,
well, here is the pond faq, its a bit rough, and I am hoping over the
course of the summer to greatly improve the layout of it, as well as 
updating the info to be more accurate/correct, as I get feed back
from the net on it.  It looks like the pond faq will reside at the sunsite
location with the other rec.garden faqs.  However, any corrections,
suggestions, recommendations, etc need to be sent to ME (photo@ksu.ksu.edu)
anyway, here goes, enjoy!
Murray Pickard aka photo@ksu.ksu.edu


Pond FAQ.
Well, this is the initial (pre-alpha) release of the pond FAQ.  I hope
to clean this up quite a bit in the future, as well as provide much better /
more accurate information as people point out the errors in this one.
Currently it is roughly arranged in the format of:
Liners for ponds 
Flexible liners     
    how to do the sides to minimize liner show at surface 
Rigid liners 
    some general suggestions to ponder prior the construction of a pond 
Filters/Pumps/Waterfalls  ....This section is really wimpy, and am looking
    forward to more input to build up this section with. 
Plants 
Fish
Book recommendations 
Societies/BBS's 
Mail Order sources   
    **NOTE I have not verified any of these.  Proceed with caution when        
    dealing with mail order.  If any of this info is INcorrect, PLEASE notify
    me with the correct info. 
Contributors to this initial release.  
    * These are people that had posted info or questions to the net regarding
    ponds and/or watergardens.  It's their info that helped to make up this FAQ,
    and those that contributed significant sections, are identified with that
    section.  AGAIN, This stuff had been pulled off the net over the past
    year or so by a couple of people, and emailed to me.
    
I MAKE NO CLAIMS THAT THE FOLLOWING IS CORRECT IN ALL INSTANCES, NOR THAT ANY
OF IT IS MY OWN WORK (of which some of it is) BUT RATHER THAT THIS IS PUBLIC
PROPERTY OF THE NET, AND I ONLY  MAINTAIN IT FOR CORRECTNESS, EASE OF USE 
(in the future), AND HOPEFULLY CORRECT AND ACURATE IDENTIFICATION OF THOSE THAT
HAVE CONTRIBUTED TOWARDS ITS EXISTANCE.  ANY AND ALL STANDARD (and if necessary,
unstandard) DISCLAIMERS APPLY. 

Please send any corrections/additions/requests to: 
Murray Pickard aka photo@ksu.ksu.edu

ENJOY!

Pond Construction:  Broken down into flexible liners, rigid liners, and
pre-formed, followed by some general contruction recommendations for whatever
you should choose to go with.

A.  Flexible liners:  There are three type of flexible liners available to the
pond builder, these are:

    1.  PVC:  (poly vinly choride) a relatively cheap liner, however, 
    must be protected from UV exposure from the sun.

    2.  EPDM:  (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) This is used alot of 
    times for roofing, comes in various thicknesses.  General opinion is 
    45 mil is fine for pond use. Some sources claim that you need to 
    get the "fish grade".  According to Jack H from the Garden Pond BBS,
    he's checked with the manufacturer and the word is that they sell 
    exactly the same product as "fish-grade" and for roofing.

    3. Butyl:  For the most part, is considered a more expensive version
    of EPDM, supposedly differs in chemical composition.

EPDM (and Butyl) are available from roofing people (check your yellow pages). 
The two leaders in the field are Firestone (trade name "Rubbergard") and
Carlisle (trade name "Sure-Seal").

zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey)
 it's time again for the annual posting of how to finish off the 
 edges of a garden pond. I hope this helps.

Pond Liners and the Sun 
----------------------- 
There are a number of reasons to keep the sun from shining on your pond liner.
First off, liners are not particularly pretty, and secondly the sun can/will
decay the liner over time. You have essentially two tools with which to
hide the liner -- earth/stones  and water.
 
The first issue in hiding your liner is to create a level pond. Let's say that
your pond is 10 feet long, and you have one end only a few inches lower than
the other. If you were to use this without better leveling, then after filling
you would have a minimum of 4 inches showing at the one end -- and since many
pool owners keep the level down an inch or two, you have *half a foot* of 
liner showing -- not good. So the more level your pond is the better -- beg,
borrow or buy a 4 foot contractors level, or strap a two foot level to a
piece of straight, stiff wood and use that.
 
The other issue in hiding your liner is how you finish the edges of the pond.
Traditionally, ponds are finished as follows: the liner comes up out of the
water, over the edge and flatish rocks are lain on top of the liner to hide 
the liner. The rocks overhang the edge to even better hide the liner, 
but this has never really hidden it to my eyes. (see figure 1) 
 
figure 1. traditional edge finishing
 
                      XXXXXXXXXXXXXX      <--- cap stone
ground level ===========--------+         <--- gap showing liner
                                |~~~~~~~  <--- water level
                                \
                                 \ <-----      liner
 
 
Two better approaches have been discovered by me spring 1993 in the catalogues 
of Lee Valley Tools (Queensview Drive, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada) If they sourced
these ideas from elsewhere, I've never seen them and they did not credit them.
 
Approach one is how I did my pond. When you bring up the liner, tuck it 
under a course or two of bricks, and then back over the bricks. Finish with 
capstones. The two courses of bricks stay submerged in the water, and 
liner,  being beneath and behind them is completely hidden from sight/sun. 
In my pond, the water must drop a good 6 inches before *starting* to show 
liner. see figure 2.  
 
figure 2. submerged bricks to hold liner
 
                      XXXXXXXXXXXXXX      <--- cap stone
ground level ===========+----- 
                        | BBBB~~~~~~~     <--- water level
                        | BBBB      <---       bricks in courses (rows)
                        +-------+
                                |
                                \
                                 \ <-----      liner
 
 
Approach two is how I might well do the next pond, but it requires a extra
one to two feet of surface area. The Idea is to create a natural setting
with pea gravel/sand and a bog around the edges. Somehow I suspect that 
the raccoons might find this very easy to disturb, but one never knows.
 
Incorporate a two foot wide, 6 inch deep all around the pond, in addition to
any shelves you already have for shallow water plants. Bring the liner up
and along this shelf and about 5 inches up the edge. Along the inside edge of
this shelf, put in a course (row) or two of bricks -- these will hold the 
gravel in place. back fill the shelf with gravel/sand to fill in the shelf. 
Fill the pool until half of the gravel is submerged, giving a beach-like
edge to the pond. shallow water plants can be planted in the gravel/sand, 
with or without pots. (figure three for those keeping count)
 
figure 3. more natural finish
 
ground level =======oooooo
                     \ oooooo            <--- gravel
                      \ooooooooo~~~~~~   <--- water level
                       \ooooooooo
                        \ ooooooooBBBB
                         \ooooooooBBBB   <--- bricks holding gravel
                          +-----------+
                                      |
                                       \
                                        \ <--- liner
 
 
In both of these alternative, the liner is only visible through the water
itself, still not the best in my opinion, but still a lot better than the
gap of exposed liner around the edge of the pond.
 
enjoy. --Lance R. Bailey
 
B.  Rigid liners:
    1. Concrete: 
    [Under construction....ie,I need your info/knowledge/recommendations]
	
    2. Preformed plastic pools:
    These are usually some kind of molded sturdy plastic tub.  There are 
    some that are free standing, just set on your deck/patio and add water,
    fish, plants, fountain, etc.  The others need to be set in the ground 
    in the same fashion as the flexible liners, then filled.  (the free 
    standing can also be set in the ground if desired) 

    3. Wiskey barrel halves:  
    These are relatively inexpensive, some may not need a liner, and will 
    hold a dwarf water lily, some bog plants and a couple of fish.  Just 
    plant the plants in the bottom of the barrel (about 1/4 to 1/2 filled 
    with dirt, and some sand/gravel on top of soil)  These make a nice 
    addition on the corner of a patio, some people have set them up so one
    makes a fountain into another with a small recirculating pump, or using
    two of them as supports for either end of a bench.

The following are general comments, recommendations, etc from various
contributors of their own experiences.  Edited for space conservation, 
hopefully the content of their recommendations remains unchanged.

As to liability and ponds, you will have to check your local by-laws as to how
deep you can build it without having to surround it with fences and self-locking
gates.  In rural areas around here (Ottawa, Canada), you can even have an
un-fenced swimming pool.  In the city, thou shalt surround thy pool with a
particular kind of fencing & submit plans & get permits, etc, if thy pool is
more than 24" (61cm) deep.  I have a theory that you could by-pass the by-law by
putting a horizontal fence (strong, rust-free, wire mesh) in the pool at the 24"
level so that children who wander in would not be able to drown (the mesh would
have to be a tight enough weave to make solid footing for them) and plants would
be able to enjoy the deeper water and grow up through the mesh.  This is only a
theory!!  It's undoubtably better to refrain from digging more than 24".... but
then your pond will freeze in the winter & you'll have to rescue your fish and
any frogs who dropped by and your hardy water lilies...

LINERS-  I've convince my pool man to give me a pool liner that he's 
replacing with a new one.  There's many who will tell you that a pool 
liner will have absorbed the chemicals, but it can be cleaned.  In 
addition, others have talked about using one of the kiddy pools, 
waterbed mattresses slit open, etc.

WATERFALLS--Lowe's has a pre-formed cascade that I intend to use instead of
building one by hand.  It seems a lot easier as well as more sturdy, with less
chance of leaks."

>How deep should the pond be? 
	2-3' seem good enough. You want the pool to stay liquid in some parts 
	during the winter. I live in New Jersey and my pool is about 3' deep. 
	It does fine in the winter. 

About three feet deep is alright.  If you make it too deep you won't be able to
see your fish.  Try to have multiple levels for various types of plants.  Put a
lot of water plants in your pond to keep it from getting too hot.  Plants add
oxygen to the water when it is sunny, when they aren't photosyntysizing, they
drain oxygen from the water.  So a waterfall will help add oxygen to the water.

Depends on your climate.  If your summers are very hot, a shallow pond will cook
your fish.  If your winters are sufficiently cold, a shallow pond will freeze
solid.

>I want to build a big pond: what kind of problems may I run into?
Depends on how big.  If your water table is very high you may need underdrains
on a liner pond to prevent wall collapse when empty.  If your pond is going to
be very deep, you may need steel reinforcing in a concrete pond, and/or sloped
walls.

Holes are a pain to find; do everything possible to avoid them (sand (or pads of
damp newspaper) under the liner, maybe even a second liner).  Make sure that
lawn runoff can't get into the pond; fertilizer or compost runoff makes it hard
to keep the pond balanced.

DO NOT SITUATE YOUR POND ANYWHERE NEAR TREES. If they are not evergreen, they
will fill your pond with leaves in the fall and if they are evergreen, they will
fill your pond with needles year round.

Also, if you want plants in your pond, you will want to put it in a place that
receives at least 6 hours of DIRECT sun a day. Many water plants need as much
sun as you can give them (especially water lilies) and will not do well if given
less. There are a few that will do well with less sun, but you should try to
make it as sunny as possible.

Think about what you will do when the pond needs water. Is there a hose  that
can reach the spot? Could you channel the runoff from the roof of the  house
into the pond? 

It's not worth cutting corners on a pond liner. After you go to the trouble of
digging the hole why put in a substitute for a liner which will only last a
couple of years tops and will require you to drain the pond and upset fish,
plants and froggies in a year or two and do all that work over again? There is
nothing more upsetting than to walk out some morning to find your pond dry and
the fish flipping on the bottom. Cheap liner substitutes just will not hold up
to the sunlight and the freeze/thaw cycles of the winter.There are some
specialty fishpond suppliers which will sell you just the size piece you need
from a bulk roll and cheaper than buying one of the prepackaged kits.
(Lilypons?) An alternative which we have used for small ponds are fiberglass or
PVC stock watering tanks from a farm supply. You can get them from 40 to 500
gallons. Prices are usually around $45-$55 for a 100 gallon which is about 5ft
long, 2ft wide and 2 ft deep. They are usually HEAVY-duty, black, and will last
forever. You just dig a hole to drop it in or surround it with rocks to disguise
it.


> 2. Pumps/filters/plumbing.  Recommedations on size pump vs size pond

Or whether you need one?  We do just fine without, and I think that might also
be possible with real ponds, too, so long as there's a good mix of sun and
shade, flora and fauna, good luck and bad.

Little Giant makes a good line.  Obviously, for 120V pumps, you need a GFCI on
the circuit.  Check local codes for wiring, conduit, and burial depths.  Size
depends on the usage (circulation, waterfall, stream, fountain?).  No simple
answer.  A nitrogen filter helps if you don't want to hassle with keeping a
balanced ecology.  A balanced (fish/plants) ecosystem is better, IMHO.

>>I also have a UV sterilizer which ELIMINATES green water and 
>>will also kill free swimming parasites if you have any. The pond 
>>is three feet deep and I can see the bottom clearly.

I use an Aquanetics 15w inline quartz unit that I had previously used on a
fishtank.  You need quartz because it allows the tube to maintain its desired
operating temperature with cold pond water. Its also safer, non-quartz units
have the water running on the bare bulb (!) with O-ring seals at the ends. I had
one of these break (all by itself) under a fishtank once.  You could hook it
into your existing pump line. It sits outside the pond and is cylindrical 3"
diameter by about 18 inches long white PVC.  Half or 3/4 inch (I forget) FPT
fittings.   

>All my plants are doing well and my "test fish" (shubunkins) are breeding 
>like crazy, but the water has stayed fairly green all summer.   

UV will fix that green water. Also water changes will help. Since you already 
have a big pump, just add a few fittings and water your garden with it.   Also
regarding filtration, if your fish are breeding your water quality is probably
fine. You might get a test kit and see what the ammonia,  pH, nitrite and
nitrate levels are.    

>- Can one easily make a biological filter that is  >readily cleanable?   

I use sponge inserts for AquaClear model 2000 aquarium filters. They are about
$3 mail order, roughly 4x4x10 inches. I get a few feet one inch diameter black
poly hose from the hardware  store, drill a few holes (well a few dozen) and 
slide the sponges  over the hose. First I cut a slot long ways through the 
sponge with a long narrow bladed kitchen knife. I wire an aquarium power head
($10 mail order) to one end, cap the other end and presto.  The sponge openings
are large enough to not catch lots of particulate matter so the thing runs for
many weeks before the flow gets to where I feel it needs cleaning. I put it on
the pond bottom and direct the flow up so I can see the faint disturbance and
know all is working. If you are really careful you can make two and clean 
alternate ones every 4-8 weeks so you don't reduce the total bacteria population
too drasticly. I plan to put a seperate sump/filter (made from a buried plastic
trash can) near my pond out of site so all this hardware (sponges, UVs) can go
into it for easier cleaning.   

>- How do you keep that stringy algae down to a managable quantity?
   Probably my frequent water changes keep nitrates too low for this to be
   a problem. I have some algae on the sides but its not invasive.   
   
>- Is there any control for duckweed?   
    Hmmm. I regularly put duckweed from my fishtank into the pond and it is
    eaten in a few days. Maybe you are overfeeding your fish?   
	
> Do I need a filter to clean the water or will the fish/plants do the job?  

Depends on the size of pond and the number, size, and kind of fish.  For
example, if you put one 3-inch long goldfish in a 1000 gallon pond, you won't
need a filter.  But if you put one foot-long carp in the same pond, you will. 
If your fish load is not too excessive, the filter could be as simple as an
air-driven sponge filter (eg. tetra's pond filter). 

Keep track of you ammonia and algea levels.  If your ammonia level gets too 
high, or you can't see your fish, you should consider building one.  With 
large ponds ammonia usually isn't a problem.  (Unless you have too many fish-
be conservative.)     
        
The filtration method I'm looking at right now is to combine a gravel base
with the main outflow drawn through it, like an under-gravel filter, with 
an above-ground biological filter in a second large tank. I will probably 
make that tank a reverse flow, with the water pumped into the support grid 
at the bottom and percolating up through several layers of graded material. 
The outflow at the top will return via a broad waterfall to the pond...

If you get the right balance of fish/plants/scavengers, they will sustain
themselves. However, since you want a waterfall, you might want to get a filter 
to pump the water up to the top of the falls instead of a water pump.           

Don't go nuts on the fish! Stock sparingly with goldfish or koi or
whatever. Goldfish are a bit more showy and hardy, but I prefer koi for their
majesty.

Also, koi are reputed to be 'trainable'. I've heard you can get them to 'puff'
a cigar, take food from your hand, etc. However, they do tend to root in plant
pots a bit.

The pump instructions and box will tell you (and so will the books) how big  a
pump for how many gallons of water you intend to have in your pool.  The  books
will tell you how to figure the gallons.

>I'm not too sure about keeping a sterile environment. You will probably 
>get mosquitoes if you don't have anything to eat the larvae.  Also, any 
>chemicals you use to keep the water clear (free from algae) will harm
>your higher plants when they get splashed.    

Good point - Getting a couple of Mosquito Fish (A type of minnow) will 
do a good job, and they'll remain unobtrusive.

A good cover of water plants (say, just over 1/2 of the posd surface) should 
keep the pond pretty clear of algae. A few goldfish (or relatively hardy
tropical fish, like paradise fish) will keep the pond clear of insects. It
hardly adds any work to the pond (removing dead leaves and fertilizing the
plants weekly is about it: the fish don't have to be fed once the pond is
established), and the results are much more stable than trying to maintain  a
sterile environment.   

>Do you have tropical lillies? Do you have to winter them over out of 
>the pond where you live? If so, do you a favorite technique for doing 
>this?   

No lilies. Hyacinth plus pennywort and duckweed from my fish
tanks. I need to get more plants.

Plants:	Not cheap around here. Papyrus around $6 to $15.
 	Elephant ears about the same. Lotus $15-$45.
 	I have a water iris that keeps coming back every
	year, so that helps.

PLANTS

Aquarium shops will sell you the plants to use as oxygenating plants.  If 
you're lucky enough to have a Lowe's, I found water lilies there three weeks 
ago for $9 each, compared to everyone else's price of $25 and up.

> 5. Plants (what are must have's and region, and care of) 
I'm Sunset Zone 3, USDA Zone 6.  Japanese Iris are hardy here, and do well 
in the margins (or just potted anywhere in a shallow pot).  Water lilies are
pretty, but don't overwinter.  Water Lettuce does well, but bugs love it, and
it isn't real pretty.  Also doesn't overwinter.

The one piece of real information in this message:  Anachris will bloom in late
spring, with pretty little white flowers held above the water  (in California,
aanyway)  I have not seen this mentioned in any of the water pond books.  

How do I plant my Oxygenating plants?
    When you get your oxygenators, you should have 6 to 10 stems of the plant,
    about 8 to 10 inches long.  Plant about half of the stem in the dirt.
    (w/ rubberband around base of bunch)  You can plant 3 to 4 bunches in 
    a 6" pot, and will want 3 bunches per sq. yd. of surface area.  The pots 
    can be set to a depth of about 2 ft, deeper once established.

> 3. Fish (carp, goldfish, fancy goldfish, koi, ???)
Unless you have a pretty big pond, assume that the fish'll get eaten.
I prefer just nice, cheap feeder goldfish.

Goldfish.  Cheap goldfish.  

I'm hoping to use just plain old goldfish as there are too many cats around  my
neighborhood to risk the more expensive koi.

Literature (books and magazines):
Philip Swindells is the presiden of the International Water Lily Society
and you may want to look at his book "The Complete Book of Water Gardening" 
Another good book is "The Stapeley book of Water Gardens".

Pondscapes Magazine
Magazine of the National Pond Society.
Pond Publishing Company
PO Box 449
Acworth, GA 30101
(404)975-0277  

Ponds and Water Gardens 2nd ed. by Bill Heritage.  
Blandford  publishing. ISBN 0-7137-1861-7.  

The Family Handyman, June 1990 Issue.  couple of good articles on pond
construction.  good idea on filter construction. question the potting method.
def. go with level "steps" inside the pond instead of sloping sides. Back
issues:  $3.50 each, Handyman Back Issues Dept., PO Box 1917, Marion, OH, 43305.

Garden Pools and Fountains, Ortho books.  ISBN 0-89721-149-9.  

Ortho and Sunset both have reasonably good references, especially as pertaining
to plants.

_The Tetra Encyclopedia of Koi_ Tetra Press, c1989, ISBN 3-923880-98-7

Harrrowsmith Water Garden Book

James Allison's _Water_in_the_Garden_ 

Societies, clubs, BBS's:
The Garden Pond BBS is for pond construction, and aquatic
plant information.  We have pond files and a pond message area.  I
just returned from the NW International Water Lily Symposium in
Boise.  Stop in sometime if you need more info. 1-503-735-3074.
Complete pond construction is beyond the scope of this message, but
I am happy to answer any questions I can.
 
     Good luck!
Jack

National Pond Society
PO Box 449
Ackworth GA 30101
(800)742-4701
(annual membership includes 10 issues of Pondscapes magazine, a color
publication written by and for pond keepers)

Water Garden Society of Greater Kansas City
(no further info available at this time)

Mail Order sources for about everything pond / fish related

Dolphin Outdoors
Fiberglass Ponds for gardens and fish
Send SASE for brochure and prices
1808 W. Campbell Ave
Campbell, CA 95008
(408) 379-7600

Hermitage Garden Pools
Fiberglass garden pools, rock waterfalls, self-contained redwood
waterwheels; bubbling fantasias
Send $1.00 for color catalog
PO Box 361, Dept. A
Canastoga, NY 13032
(315) 697-9093

Lilypons Water Gardens
pond liners, accessories, plants (lilies, lotus, etc), fish, etc.
100-page Catalog subscription $5.00
3 locations:
Dept. 1626
PO Box 10
Buckeystown, MD 21717-0010
(800) 723-7667

Dept. 1626
PO Box 188
Brookshire, TX 77423-0188
(800)766-5648

Dept. 1626
PO Box 1130
Thermal, CA 92274-1130
(800) 685-7667 or (800)365-5459 (different ads had different Ph # here)

Paradise Water Gardens
(617) 447-4711  FAX: (617) 447-4591
Great books on water gardening (too numerous to list here); water lilies,
fountains, pumps, Koi, goldfish, aquatic plants, tub gardens.
Send $3.00 for a 60-page full-color catalog
56 May St. FN06
Whitman, MA 02382

Pets Unlimited
(813) 442-2197
Featuring TetraPond products
Send $3.00 for color brochure, price list, plus "Digest for a Successful
Pond" 
1888 Drew
Clearwater, FL 34625

REAL GOODS
they've got pumps and solar panels
(800) 762 7325
FAX: (707) 468 0301

Resource Conservation Technology, Inc.
(301) 366-1146
Butyl Pond liners. 20-year warranty. Won't harm fish or plants, won't 
stiffen in cold weather, resists sunlight better than plastics. Call or
write for literature and samples of the liner and Liner Protection Fabric.
2633 N. Calvert St.
Baltimore, MD 21218

Santa Barbara Water Gardens 
Box 4353
Santa Barbara, CA 93140  

Slocum Water Gardens
Water Lily Catalog: water lilies, lotus, fancy Goldfish
Complete info on tubs, concrete pools, and ponds
Send $3.00 
Slocum Water Gardens, Dept. FI592
1101 Cypress Gardens Rd.
Winter Haven, FL 33880

TetraPond
32-mil, flexible PVC liners, 10-year guarantee; accessory products,
fish and plant foods, water treatments, etc.
Write for free "how-to" brochure
Tetra Sales (USA)
Department P-9208
201 Tabor Road,
Morris Plains, NJ 07950

That Fish Place  
A large mail order outfit for aquarium people, however they do carry some of the
pumps for ponds. 
(800) 733-3829

Van Ness Water Gardens
Water lilies, bog plants, info, pumps, filters, maintenance
(714) 982-2425   For 56-page color catalog, send $4.00
2460 N. Euclid , Dept. 877
Upland, CA 91786-1199

Waterford Gardens
(201) 327-0721
Water Lilies, bog plants, lotus, pools and accessories, ornamental fish
$5.00 for 1992 catalog
74 East Allendale Road, Dept F
Saddle River, NJ 07458

Waterland USA
Fountains for your home, patio, or garden
(800) 321-6178 Call for free brochure
27071 Cabot Rd., Suite 116
Laguna Hills, CA 92653

William Tricker, Inc.
(216) 524-3491
Rare and unusual varieties of water lilies, aquatic plants, fish, etc.
Send $3.00 for full-color catalog
7125 Tanglewood Drive
Independence, OH 44131

Favorite quote, overheard at the aquatic nursery:
Customer:  I want to buy some Koi, and what do I have to do to make them breed?
 
Nurseryman:  Well, it's pretty hard to stop them.

Contributors (whether they knew it or not!)  I hope this is inclusive of
everyone whose messages had been sent to me by a couple of netters that had
collected large collections of postings, and whose information helped to form
this FAQ.

aab@cichlid.com (Andy Burgess)
adam@microware.com (Adam Goldberg)
ahill@hpbs972.boi.hp.com (Andy Hill)
athdebn@scifac.indstate.edu (Debbie Nelson)
bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey)
cfb@fc.hp.com (Charlie Brett)
chendd@UG.EDS.COM (Diane DeMers Chen)
dbell@cup.portal.com (David J Bell)
enenkel@cs.toronto.edu (Robert Frederick Enenkel)
fog@hpcc01.corp.hp.com (Larry Fogelquist)
hanna@smsc.sony.com (Nancy Hannaford X-xxx)
Jack.Honeycutt@f52.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Jack Honeycutt)
jan@bagend.uucp (Jan Isley)
jfhess@bullwinkle.ucdavis.edu (john hess)
jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop)
mcrafts@dale.ksc.nasa.gov (Mark Crafts)
mnb@voodoo.boeing.com (Michael Burr)
onstotc@prism.cs.orst.edu (Curt Onstott)
peteo@sgi.com (Pete Orelup)
palepink@lily.arts.com 
rghoff@bb1t.monsanto.com (Rick Hoffman)
richb@kronos.com (Rich Braun)
sjane@BNR.CA (sjs)
sonny@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (joseph.j.de rosa)
stevem@gold.gvg.tek.com (Steve Miller) 
stevew@hpindda.cup.hp.com (Steve Weber)
stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil
tjgorn01@starbase.spd.louisville.edu (Tim Gornet)
vaughan@europa.eng.gtefsd.com (Kirby Vaughan)
xku@vax5.cit.cornell.edu
zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey)


