From fgt@cadre.com Mon Aug  8 12:44:57 EDT 1994
Article: 637 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: fgt@cadre.com (Fred G. Thurber)
Subject: Re: Bees night out?
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	I am a new beekeeper and started off this year with a 
couple of hives.  I had two nukes of carniolans installed
this Spring.  I have had trouble with one of the hive; the bees seem
very grumpy and have recently taken to stinging me.  The hives are
very close to a gravel driveway and cars & farm equipment apparently rumble
by during the day.  A couple of days ago I decided to move them and took them
to a friend's house in a quiet location about a mile away.  Separating
us are three major roads, two wooded swamps filled with sweet pepperbush
(which is now blooming) and three of pastures.   However the next day
hundreds of bees were swarming around the location the hives used to be and by
afternoon they had massed on a car parked nearby.  They also seemed to
be hot-tempered and my landlord complained about them.  What should I do?

---

Frederick Thurber      fgt@cadre.com           





From jlks@u.washington.edu Mon Aug  8 12:44:58 EDT 1994
Article: 638 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jlks@u.washington.edu (Jordan Schwartz)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bees night out?
Date: 1 Aug 1994 20:45:03 GMT
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fgt@cadre.com (Fred G. Thurber) writes:
[...]A couple of days ago I decided to move them and took them
>to a friend's house in a quiet location about a mile away.  Separating
>us are three major roads, two wooded swamps filled with sweet pepperbush
>(which is now blooming) and three of pastures.   However the next day
>hundreds of bees were swarming around the location the hives used to be and by
>afternoon they had massed on a car parked nearby.  They also seemed to
>be hot-tempered and my landlord complained about them.  What should I do?

New to beekeeping myself, but I would say move the hive back to its 
original position ASAP, and, once you have the hive reconsolidated, pick 
a new spot to move them to, further away than your friend's house (a mile 
and a half did me fine, but better safe than sorry).
  
Bees have no regard for major roads, and if one happens upon a familiar 
landmark, they will be able to find their old home quick.  If you are set 
on your friend's house as a permanent location, pick some spot very far 
away from both the original spot and your friend's house to move them to 
for three or four weeks, until everyone who remembers the old terrain is 
dead, then move them to your friend's place.  

Again: this is my first year beekeeping, so take my advice with a shaker 
of salt...

Jordan


From Paul.Ferroni@ab.com Mon Aug  8 12:44:59 EDT 1994
Article: 639 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: cpferron@icd.ab.com (C. Paul Ferroni)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: 1 Aug 1994 22:31:37 GMT
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In article <sandrock.775502827@aries>, sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) writes:

[...munch...]

> new colony, but in the meantime, what do I do with all those full frames?
> Get an extractor? Destroy the frames? What? And will these bees feasting
> on the honey be very upset at my intervention? I've been stung a few times
> in my life, but certainly I'm not anxious to try for multiple stings!
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Mark Sandrock

  If the hive is empty (and if it's not already too late) you need to
do something to keep the wax moths out.  Bees will keep them out when
they are living in the hive, but I doubt if robber's will care.  

  You should open the hive (don't worry about the "mean-ness" of robbers.
I suspect that they'll act pretty much like "ordinary bees") and see if
you have robbers, or if a swarm has moved in.  You can probably judge this
by watching the bees coming in.  If they are laden with pollen, they are
not robber bees, and you have a natural swarm that's moved in.

  If you don't have any resident bees, then move the hive in the evening,
since the robbers will all go home around sunset, and leave the hive empty.
Move it to wherever you'll be storing it.  Check it carefully for moth-damage.
You'll recognize it if you see it - worm-like larvae eating through the
wax, leaving silky trails behind them.  Eventually they'll form cocoons on
the wooden frames, but by that time, all the wax will be consumed.

  I store my empty hives in plastic garbage bags, with some moth balls
on top of the frames, isolated from actually contacting the wax/frames
by a sheet of cardboard.  This will actually kill any larvae and eggs in
the combs, too. 

  Be SURE to air out the frames a couple of DAYS before putting on active
hives after removing them from the presence of the moth balls.  The wax 
will store some of the chemicals in it, and requires lots of free air
to flush it out.

  You can also treat frames with a BT spray (bacillus thurengensis spores --
spelling not guaranteed) that will kill any wax moth larvae when they hatch,
and be totally harmless to bees.  This can be purchased under several
common names -- check your garden supply store.

  Wax moths can devistate a weak/inactive/empty hive in a matter of weeks.
Once ruined, you have to start from scratch with new foundation, etc.

  Hope you've got a swarm.  That'd be the best solution to all your problems.
But in any case, don't be afraid to visit your bees.  With a good veil, 
gloves, and proper clothing, you shouldn't have any problems.  (forgot to add
a little common sense to that list :) ).

-cpf




From Paul.Ferroni@ab.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:00 EDT 1994
Article: 640 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: cpferron@icd.ab.com (C. Paul Ferroni)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Will the honey move up?
Date: 1 Aug 1994 22:48:45 GMT
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In article <1994Jul30.124716.1@jaguar.uofs.edu>, ddc1@jaguar.uofs.edu writes:
> 	

[...munch...]

> 	Also how do I put the hive back together without crushing a million 
> bees? Everytime I either brush or smoke them off the sides by the time I turn 
> around and pick up the box to put back on they've covered the sides again. I 
> *can't* stand there forever until they decide to move, my back can't take it 
> especially when they're full.
> 
> -- 
> Dave D. Cawley


Dave,

  I'll take a stab at your last question...

  I typically use the hive outer cover as a stand for the supers.  Turn
it upside down, and set the super(s) on it in such a way that it sits on
four points, rather than sliping into the cover.  This way, there is a 
significant gap below the super as it's sitting on the cover.  (It also
makes it easy to pick up later).

  Be sure to have scraped off any comb that's hanging below the frames.  

  Then, apply liberal smoke to the top of what's left of the hive (where
the seperated super will go), and to the underside of the super sitting
on the cover.  This is why you leave the space below it -- so the smoke
will go underneath easily.  (Note: I always leave the inner cover on top
of the seperated super as well, to reduce the number of curious onlookers
while working.)  

  Typically, most of the bees will be away from the points of contact by
this time, and you have a short window of time to move the super on top
of the hive.  If your hive is very full (of bees), angry (open too long
perhaps?), etc, you may still have MANY bees sitting where they may get
hurt.

  The method of placing the super on the hive will also help at this point.
Don't just set it in its final location.  Gently set it down about a side-
board width from it's final resting point.  Do this by setting one edge down
first (slowly), then the other (slowly).  Then slowly slide the whole thing
into position.

  I emphasize the slowness of the movement(s) because the bees will naturally
move out of the way as they are getting compressed between two objects.
You'll end up crushing a few bees, but I'm usually able to put the most active,
full hives together without rousing them too much, or effecting a massacre.

  I typically smoke any crushed bees, to try to mask the scent, and avoid
any "misundertandings" with the survivors :).

  Hope this helps.

-cpf



From Dave.Du.Toit@enviro.cds.alt.za Mon Aug  8 12:45:01 EDT 1994
Article: 641 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: Dave.Du.Toit@enviro.cds.alt.za (Dave Du Toit)
Date: 31 Jul 94 17:50:00 +0200
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Moving Hives?
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Hi

DD> and am wondering what the best way to do it is. I seem >to remember 
DD>  reading that they should be moved a foot/day or something, >but can't 
DD> find the reference in the books I have now...Any advice?

Most probably the easiest method is to move them a least 15km away from 
there original site for a minimum of five days, place some foreign 
matter in front of the entrance leaves or something so they are aware 
that things have changed and they must retake there bearings, then 
after 5 days follow the same process to bring them back. 

dave@enviro.cds.alt.za


From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:03 EDT 1994
Article: 642 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Will the honey move up?
Date: Mon, 01 Aug 1994 13:57:42 -0500
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In article <1994Jul30.124716.1@jaguar.uofs.edu>, ddc1@jaguar.uofs.edu wrote:

>         Well...in my two brood boxes I found almost 5 frames total of capped
> honey, 3.5 in the top and 1.5 in the bottom. This amazed me cos I figured I
> could get away with 2 brood boxes and a medium super for the year since we've
> had droughts the last 3-5 years...how was *I* supposed to know that the
> rainfall would be a doozy this year?!? So now my question is (other than
where 
> the heck am i going to get more supers) is will they move the honey up
into the
> super to free up the brood boxes now that they have the room? They had
one full
> sheet of of foundation filled out and were working on the others. I figure I
> have a full super with what is capped in the bottom boxes.

I don't think the bees will "move the honey" into the super, but what they will
do is consume the honey that is stored near the broodnest, and new nectar
that is coming in will probably be stored up in the super. At a casual glance,
this looks like they "moved the honey", but that isn't what really happened.
Of course, that's just my opinion - I haven't watched my hive closely enough
to be able to "prove" this hypothesis.

>         I found the queen in the top box which is practically filled with
> brood and 3.5 frames of honey, the bottom box had some open space, will she
> move back down or is it time to switch boxes on them? Since I don't have an
> excluder should I pray that she doesn't move up into the super?

Given how crowded your colonies sound, I would guess that it is likely that
the queen would move up into the super & start laying - all those open cells
would be just too appealing. Prayer doesn't seem to change that! Some folks
say that if there is a band of honey across the top of the hive, the queen
won't cross it & lay in the super. To have an effective band, *EVERY* frame
needs to be solid honey on the top couple of inches - it is easy to get the
honey barrier on the sides, but much tougher (you see it less often) directly
over the brood nest. The honey barrier didn't work for me this summer, but it
seems to work much of the time (don't know how prayer impacts this one!)
 
>         Also how do I put the hive back together without crushing a million 
> bees? Everytime I either brush or smoke them off the sides by the time I turn 
> around and pick up the box to put back on they've covered the sides again. I 
> *can't* stand there forever until they decide to move, my back can't take it 
> especially when they're full.

The trick I was taught was 1) lots of smoke, and 2) set the upper box onto the
lower box at a slight angle (rotation), and then spin it into position. The
advantage is that the "crush zone" is much smaller when you initially set the
box down. Then, if you can spin the box slowly enough, most of the bees will
get out  of the way, or get pushed out of the way. I still squish some, but
not as many as just plopping the box straight down. The disadvantage is that
it can be tough with burr comb & propolis to spin a deep that has lots of
honey in it!

Good Luck.

Rick Hough
rshough@tasc.com

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.


From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:03 EDT 1994
Article: 643 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Mon, 01 Aug 1994 13:57:46 -0500
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In article <sandrock.775502827@aries>, sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark
Sandrock) wrote:

[preliminaries deleted for brevity]
> Now, the problem is, this hive full of honey has been sitting in the
> garden all along, and I've noticed a fair amount of activity with bees
> coming and going and crawling around the hive entrance. Yesterday I
> received the equipment I (finally) ordered, and was ready to take a
> look inside, but happened to read a paragraph in Walter Kelley's book
> about the potential "meanness" of robber bees. Well, if what I have are
> robber bees, I'm not anxious to do battle with them, and am appealing
> here for any advice as to what course of action I should now follow.

As Mike Moroney noted, robber bees aren't that big a deal. Yes, they tend
to be somewhat more aggressive than "residents", but you probably won't
notice that much of a difference if you are a "glove-wearer" (i.e. you
don't work your bees bare-handed). One good way to discriminate between
residents & robbers from the outside of the hive is to watch the hive
entrance - If you see bees bringing pollen into the colony, then you
have an active colony (robbers will not bring pollen in - they are taking
the honey out!  Also, pollen coming into a colony is an indication that
there is brood rearing going on (ok - late in the season they might
be storing it away for spring...) which is something only "residents"
will do. Again, as Mike noted, robbers will clean out a vacant colony
quite rapidly, so if the activity you have been watching is, indeed,
robbers, it is likely you don't have to worry about any honey!

> Kelley's informed me that they've been sold out of bees for several
> months, and I'm thinking I have to wait until next spring to start a
> new colony, but in the meantime, what do I do with all those full frames?
> Get an extractor? Destroy the frames? What? And will these bees feasting
> on the honey be very upset at my intervention? I've been stung a few times
> in my life, but certainly I'm not anxious to try for multiple stings!

It is amazing how mother nature takes care of these things for us -
maybe a swrm moved in, in which case you have an established colony by
this time, but you need to watch for mites & disease. Also, depending on how
well they have built up, you may need to feed them to help them through the
winter. If a swarm has not moved in, then it is likely that other bees will
have found the colony & robbed all the honey out. Once the robbers have
done their work, it is likely that wax moths will move in, and consume all
the wax left in the hive. So, you may open the hive this fall, and just find
a bunch of empty frames!!

If you still have honey in the frames, you have a bunch of choices to make.
Contact me by e-mail if you want, and we can talk about this further.
 
Rick Hough
rshough@tasc.com

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.


From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:05 EDT 1994
Article: 644 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Requeening by putting in queen cell?
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 1994 12:45:02 -0500
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In article <owen-2207942243440001@sales.rsnz.govt.nz>, owen@rsnz.govt.nz
(Owen Watson) wrote:

> Has anyone tried the method of requeening by putting an-almost-ready queen
> cell on the frames, and letting supersedure take place?

I don't think this will work in a queen-right hive. I would think that the
existing queen would kill the queen in the cell before she ever emerges
(this is the way it works when a colony raises emergency queens to replace
a "lost" queen - the first queen to emerge runs around & chews holes in the
sides of all the other queen cells - the workers then finish the job by
pulling the pupa out of the cell and discarding it outside the hive).

This would be a good way to requeen a colony if you first eliminated the
old
queen, although you may want to place more than one queen cell, just in
case
you damage one "installing" it.

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.


From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:06 EDT 1994
Article: 645 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Question about making beewax candles
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 1994 10:05:19 -0500
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In article <311471$26s@homer.mdd.comm.mot.com>, jong@mdd.comm.mot.com
(Edward Jong) wrote:

> 
> When making beeswax candles, is it advisable to mix some
> parafin as well?  Any suggestions for candle making.
> 
> I don't know anything about bees.  I am posting this question
> for a beekeeping friend of mine.

Addition of parafin will increase the chances that the candle will
drip. Also, once you add parafin, you can't sell your candles as
100% beeswax. I am not aware of any advantages of adding parafin,
other than parafin is cheap.

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.


From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:07 EDT 1994
Article: 646 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How to process burr comb - novice
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 1994 13:05:36 -0500
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In esponse to Mike Killoran's recent post:

Your concept on the solar melter is right - brood & big chunks of
other "undesirables" will stay on top, with all the rest dripping
through. Wax floats on water, and since honey is heavier than water,
wax will float on the honey too. The problem is that the honey that
goes through the solar melter probably won't taste that great. So, before
rendering the honey soaked wax, put it back on the hive for a while.
The bees will clean up the honey and leave the wax behind (I put the wax
on top of the inner cover, with an empty super or something holding up
the outer cover. This is a *GOOD* way to spread American Foulbrood, so it
is
best to feed the honey back to the colony it came from) The wax that comes
out
of the melter still needs to be cleaned bofore making candles with it (a
beeswax crafting book can tell you how - Bob Berthold just wrote a nice
one).
This cleaning process will remove any honey, bee parts, pollen, etc. that
didn't get separated by the initial melting process.

Also, refer to the FAQ (don't know if it is archived yet - e-mail me
and I'll forward you a copy) - there is a reference to hint sheets
available
from Andy Nachbaur - there is one on solar wax rendering.


****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.

In article <9407260857.PN06539@LL.MIT.EDU>,
killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran) wrote:

> 
> Question from someone who started their hive this spring:
> 
> My bees tend to build comb where I don't want it.  This is 
> normally hanging off the bottom of the frames and occasionally
> between the frames.  When there wasn't too much of it, I'd 
> scrape it off with my hive tool and leave it on the ground.
> 
> Last weekend, when I was adding another super (;->) I took out
> the queen excluder I had in place.  There was alot of extra 
> space due to the frame of the excluder and the bees had built
> comb both above and below the wire grid.  The comb on top was 
> capped honey and the comb below had brood of various stages.
> 
> I scraped both types into two plastic food containers, 
> respectively.  The capped honey comb I just squished with a
> fork and left the container on an incline for ~1 hour to 
> separate the wax and honey...  mmm, mmm good!  Now I'm left
> with mostly empty comb.  The larvae filled comb on the other
> hand, I'm not sure what to do with.
> 
> I've seen plans for a solar wax renderer but don't see exactly
> how they work.  It seems like the comb (containing honey, brood,
> etc.) is placed on a screen in the sun.  The wax melts and drips
> down to a collecting pan.  But wouldn't the honey drip down too?
> This seems like a good way to separate the brood, though.
> 
> I don't want to waste the wax the bees worked so hard to make.
> Perhaps I'll use it for candles...  but a candle filled with
> different stages of bee brood might only be interesting to a
> beekeeper!
> 
> Any insights or pointers in this area would be helpful!  Thanks,
> 
> 	Mike Killoran
> --
> Mike Killoran                            Zen says:
> killoran@ll.mit.edu                  Cease to do evil,
> (617) 981-2667                        Try to do good.


From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:08 EDT 1994
Article: 647 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What do I do about skunks?
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 1994 13:27:21 -0500
Organization: TASC
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NNTP-Posting-Host: rshough.read.tasc.com

In article <313bm1$66o@news.doit.wisc.edu>, nmrdb@vms.macc.wisc.edu
(BEVERLY SEAVEY) wrote:

> This morning there were a lot of my bees by the door of the hive, all uupset.
> I had noticed skunk smell all night. In the ABC to XYZ book, it says that
> skunks eat bees!!! How do I get rid of these skunks?

A couple of tricks I have heard about, but have not had to test out myself:

1) Put the hives on taller hive stands, so the skunks can't reach. I would
guess that this has a couple of problems - skunks can climb, skunks can be
rather tall when they stand on their hind legs, it can be hard to remove
supers from the top of the hive.

2) Place something in front of the hive that the skunks will not walk on.
I've heard of driving nails through a board so they protrude from the back
side, and then leaving the boards, nails up, in front of the hive. Knowing
me, I would forget about the darn board, and step on it myself! I'm not
sure
if it works, but I've heard that some animals don't like to walk on chicken
wire when it is laid flat on the ground.

3) Put up a fence around the hives. This can be a lot of work, and skunks
can dig, so the fence needs to go below the surface a bit.

4) Sprinkle liberal amounts of pepper, or other hot spice on the ground
in front of the hive entrance. The theory on this one is that the skunk
will walk on the pepper, get pepper on it's paws, and get some of the
pepper
when it eats the bees. "Hmm, these bees don't taste so good..." and the
skunk leaves your bees alone.

5) Trap the skunk & move it elsewhere. This one has certain obvious risks.

As I said above, I can't vouch for the effectiveness of any of these,
but I'm sure others will have some comments of their own!

Oh yah - I almost forgot the relatively sure fix - a rifle.

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.


From adent@Deakin.Edu.Au Mon Aug  8 12:45:09 EDT 1994
Article: 648 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adent@Deakin.Edu.Au (ADRIAN GRAHAM DENT)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: help!!!!
Date: 2 Aug 1994 05:21:15 GMT
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Message-ID: <31kl4b$l11@sol.ccs.deakin.edu.au>
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From physikv@phys.canterbury.ac.nz Mon Aug  8 12:45:10 EDT 1994
Article: 649 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: physikv@phys.canterbury.ac.nz (Kumar)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Requeening by putting in queen cell?
Date: 2 Aug 1994 12:11:29 GMT
Organization: University of Canterbury
Lines: 33
Message-ID: <31ld5h$65i@cantua.canterbury.ac.nz>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: newton.canterbury.ac.nz
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]

Rick Hough (rshough@tasc.com) wrote:
: In article <owen-2207942243440001@sales.rsnz.govt.nz>, owen@rsnz.govt.nz
: (Owen Watson) wrote:

: > Has anyone tried the method of requeening by putting an-almost-ready queen
: > cell on the frames, and letting supersedure take place?

: I don't think this will work in a queen-right hive. I would think that the
: existing queen would kill the queen in the cell before she ever emerges
: (this is the way it works when a colony raises emergency queens to replace
: a "lost" queen - the first queen to emerge runs around & chews holes in the
: sides of all the other queen cells - the workers then finish the job by
: pulling the pupa out of the cell and discarding it outside the hive).

: This would be a good way to requeen a colony if you first eliminated the
: old
: queen, although you may want to place more than one queen cell, just in
: case
: you damage one "installing" it.

This method of requeening is quite frequently used by commercial
beekeepers in New Zealand, with claims of a 70-80% success rate. The
cells are protected on the sides with tape, ensuring that the pupa
inside has a chance to at least emerge. The cell does not need to be
placed in the brood chamber - often it is placed in a super (with no
excluder being used). 

It is an attractive idea from a labour-saving, "leave-it-alone" point of
view, but I don't know how accurate the success rate really is, or
whether anyone has ever done a controlled experiment. My only attempt
with this method resulted in a swarm in the last month of Summer...

Kumar


From rohvm1.mah48d@rohmhaas.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:11 EDT 1994
Article: 650 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Nntp-Posting-Host: 136.141.220.39
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 1994 12:30:15 -0400
From: rohvm1.mah48d@rohmhaas.com (John E. Taylor III)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Distribution: na
Subject: Re: Question about making beewax candles
Message-ID: <rohvm1.mah48d-020894123000@136.141.220.39>
References: <311471$26s@homer.mdd.comm.mot.com> <rshough-260794100519@rshough.read.tasc.com>
Organization: Rohm and Haas Company
Lines: 23

In article <rshough-260794100519@rshough.read.tasc.com>, rshough@tasc.com
(Rick Hough) wrote:

> In article <311471$26s@homer.mdd.comm.mot.com>, jong@mdd.comm.mot.com
> (Edward Jong) wrote:
> >
> > When making beeswax candles, is it advisable to mix some
> > parafin as well?  Any suggestions for candle making.
>
> Addition of parafin will increase the chances that the candle will
> drip. Also, once you add parafin, you can't sell your candles as
> 100% beeswax. I am not aware of any advantages of adding parafin,
> other than parafin is cheap.
>

I have the impression that candle crafters consider 100% beeswax candles to
be a bit extravagant (after all, they use mostly parafin), and thus use it
primarily as a minor additive.  We, on the other hand, have access to lots
more beeswax than they do.  We can afford the luxury of pure beeswax
candles.  Go for it!

--
John Taylor    (W3ZID)     |  "The opinions expressed are those of the
roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com |   writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company."


From rohvm1.mah48d@rohmhaas.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:12 EDT 1994
Article: 651 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Nntp-Posting-Host: 136.141.220.39
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 1994 12:35:14 -0400
From: rohvm1.mah48d@rohmhaas.com (John E. Taylor III)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Distribution: na
Subject: Re: What do I do about skunks?
Message-ID: <rohvm1.mah48d-020894123520@136.141.220.39>
References: <313bm1$66o@news.doit.wisc.edu> <rshough-260794132721@rshough.read.tasc.com>
Organization: Rohm and Haas Company
Lines: 24

In article <rshough-260794132721@rshough.read.tasc.com>, rshough@tasc.com
(Rick Hough) wrote:

> In article <313bm1$66o@news.doit.wisc.edu>, nmrdb@vms.macc.wisc.edu
> (BEVERLY SEAVEY) wrote:
>
> > This morning there were a lot of my bees by the door of the hive, all uupset.
> > I had noticed skunk smell all night. In the ABC to XYZ book, it says that
> > skunks eat bees!!! How do I get rid of these skunks?
>
> A couple of tricks I have heard about, but have not had to test out myself:
>
> 1) Put the hives on taller hive stands, so the skunks can't reach. I would
> guess that this has a couple of problems - skunks can climb, skunks can be
> rather tall when they stand on their hind legs, it can be hard to remove
> supers from the top of the hive.

According to what I've read, the advantage of raising the hive to about 18
- 24 inches is that the skunk has to stretch upward to hassle the hive,
leaving his underbelly exposed to the bees.  Apparently they're much more
effective there than trying to get through his back fur.

--
John Taylor    (W3ZID)     |  "The opinions expressed are those of the
roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com |   writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company."


From terry-dahms@uiowa.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:13 EDT 1994
Article: 652 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: terry-dahms@uiowa.edu (Terry Dahms)
Subject: June 1994 'Buzz' - Iowa Beekeepers Newsletter
Message-ID: <terry-dahms.3.00104DB3@uiowa.edu>
Keywords: newsletter june 1994 iowa
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 1994 22:18:06 GMT

       Submitted by: Terry Dahms, Pres.
       East Central Iowa Beekeepers Assoc.
       internet: terry-dahms@uiowa.edu
       ps: sorry for the delay in posting.
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
                    THE BUZZ                     JUNE, 1994
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
       A newsletter published monthly as a cooperative effort by The Iowa
       Department of Agriculture and Land Stewardship and The Iowa  Honey 
       Producers  Association  (IHPA),  an affiliate member of  the  Iowa
       Horticultural Society.   Copy deadline is the 20th of each  month. 
       Your  ideas,  comments  and letters are welcomed  and  encouraged. 
       EDITOR:   Bob  Cox,  State Apiarist,  Iowa Dept.  of  Agriculture,
       Wallace Building,  Des Monies, IA.   50319 Phone:  (515) 281-5736. 
       IHPA  MEMBERSHIP:   Membership dues in the  Iowa  Honey  Producers
       Assn. are $5.00/year.  Send to Gordon Powell, IHPA Treasurer.
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
       STATE APIARISTS REPORT
          What  a  fantastic spring for the bees we have  had!   You  can
       expect lots of swarming if you have not managed the bees properly. 
       It is time to start thinking about getting supers on your colonies
       and  preparing  for the harvest.   That brings up the  Iowa  State
       Fair.  Get involved this year.  Enter some of your best product in
       the apiary division or perhaps cook something with honey to  enter
       in the food division.  It doesn't matter whether your bees produce
       dark or light honey, liquid or comb honey,  beautiful beeswax or a
       nice observation beehive.  There is a class for everyone.
          Think  about putting in a bid for selling honey or  beeswax  at
       the Iowa Honey Producers Association Salesbooth at State Fair.  We
       could really use good quality product and at the same time promote
       our favorite industry or hobby.
          I  am finding the Varroa mite in many places around  the  state
       this year.  Beware of this mite and treat if you have them.   Time
       is running out to treat this spring,  if not already past in  most
       areas of the state.   The black locust trees are blooming now (May
       23rd)  and some sweet clover is starting to bloom here in  central
       Iowa.   This is the time of year to put on supers for the bees  to
       store surplus honey.
          In  June  there  are local beekeepers meetings  being  held  in
       Marshalltown,  Iowa  City  and  Davenport.   For  specific  dates,
       places,  and times consult the "Calendar of Events."   These are a
       great opportunity to compare notes and see how other beekeepers do
       things.  Why not pick one closest to you and attend it?
          If  you want to be on a list of beekeepers wanting to  retrieve
       swarms or need bees inspected before July 1st,  give me a call  at
       (515) 281-5736.                     - Bob Cox

       CENTRAL IOWA BEEKEEPERS MEETING
          The Central Iowa Beekeepers Association (CIBA) will hold  their
       summer  meeting  at the Anson Park Shelter House  in  Marshalltown
       June 18th at 5:30 p.m.   A member appreciation meal will be cooked
       and  served  by CIBA board members for continued  support  of  the
       membership.   The program will follow at 6:30 p.m.  featuring  Bob
       Mitchell, Tim Laughlin and Bob Cox (Mo, Larry and Curly?)
       For further information contact Margaret Hala (515) 752-2981.


       IOWA SUMMER BEEKEEPING FIELD DAY
          Saturday,  July 23rd the Iowa Honey Producers and Central  Iowa
       Beekeepers  Association  will hold a beekeeping field day  at  the
       Riverside Bible Camp near Story City,  Iowa.   The camp is located
       just  2  miles  off  of  I-35  about  20  miles  north  of   Ames.
       Registration is at 8:30 a.m. and the program will last until 4:00.
          Dr.  Marla Spivak of the University of Minnesota  Bee  Research
       Laboratory will present a program on queen management: finding and
       evaluating the queen, queen selection, breeding,  rearing methods,
       replacement and introduction methods.  Everyone attending will get
       a  copy of the new disease booklet published by the University  of
       Minnesota.
          The morning will start out with a walking tour of bee plants on
       the  grounds.   Breakout sessions in the  afternoon  will  include
       choices  of  Comb  Honey Production,  Pollen  Trapping,  Beginning
       Beekeeping, or Bee Diseases and Pests.
          The  camp  setting is a great place for  beekeepers  and  their
       families.   There  is  a beeyard with  a  screened-in  observation
       building  on the property.   Some of the talks and lunch  will  be
       held  in  an  air-conditioned  retreat  center.   Pre-registration
       ($4.00  for  single  or family) is required for  a  prepared  meal
       ($5.75  per  adult) or you could bring your own lunch and  eat  at
       picnic  tables outside.   To register fill out the form on page  9
       and  send in with your check for the registration and  meal.   The
       registration fee at the door is $5.00.
          For further information contact Bob Cox,  State Apiarist,  Iowa
       Department of Agriculture, Wallace Building, Des Moines,  IA 50319
       (515) 281-5736 or Gordon Powell, 4012 - 54th St.,  Des Moines,  IA
       50310 (515) 278-1762.

       SCOTT COUNTY BEEKEEPERS FIELD TRIP
          Thurday,  June 16th at 6:00 p.m.  the Scott  County  Beekeepers
       Association  will  hold  a  beekeeping field  trip.   Meet  at  Al
       Gruber's  beeyard  at  1945 Wisconsin St.  on  the  west  side  of
       Davenport.
          This  will be a hands-on experience in the beeyard or  you  may
       want  to watch.   Anyway,  bring you own hat,  beeveil  and  other
       personal gear if you have it.   However,  come even if you do not,
       because we will have some extra equipment for you to use.
          We will identify queens,  swarm cells,  and other aspects of  a
       bee  colony.   We will demonstrate how to make splits and  requeen
       colonies  and when to place supers on colonies for  surplus  honey
       production.  Hopefully, we will not have a rainstorm again.
       DIRECTIONS:   Turn north on Wisconsin Street off of Locust,  1 1/4
       miles east of I-280.  Come and bring a friend.
       For further information contact Ray & Jo Whitwood (319) 263-0992.

                                HONEY OF A VERSE

       "John  did baptize in the wilderness,  and preach the  baptism  of
       repentance for the remission of sins...  And John was clothed with
       camel's hair, and with a girdle of a skin about his loins;  and he
       did eat locusts and wild HONEY"  (Mark 1:4,6)
       NOSEMA  IN  HONEYBEES by Carol Fassbinder  (Hawkeye  Science  Fair
       Winner)
          In the past four winters the winter kill rate for honeybees  in
       Iowa  has  been 50-75%.   In my science fair project I  wanted  to
       determine if Nosema disease is a contributor to such a high winter
       loss.   I  predicted  that the colonies  that  were  treated  with
       Fumadil-B will have little or no Nosema spores, and survive winter
       better than the colonies that were not treated.

       Procedure:   I tested 8 different yards (averaging 26 colonies per
       yard)  and gathered a 25-bee sample from each.   Yards #1  and  #2
       were  treated with Fumadil-B and winter-wrapped,  #3 and  #4  were
       treated and not wrapped,  #5 and #6 were not treated but  wrapped,
       and  #7 and #8 were not treated  and not wrapped for  winter.   At
       each yard I recorded the number of living colonies in the  spring. 
       I then dissected the bees by removing the head,  then grasping the
       stinger  end  of  the abdomen, and gently  removing  the  insides. 
       After removing the insides from 25 bees, the gut,  ventriculus and
       honey stomach were ground up with 25 millilters of water (1 ml per
       bee) with a mortar and pestle.   I used a wire loop to transfer  a
       small amount of this solution onto the hemocytometer for  counting
       the  number  of Nosema spores.   Under a 430  power  microscope  I
       counted  the Nosema spores in 80 small squares on a  special  grid
       and used a mathematical formula to calculate the correct number of
       spores per bee and the level of infestation.

       Results:   The Nosema infestation is displayed in Table 1 and  the
       winter survival rate is shown in Table 2 on page 4.   In yards  #1
       and  #2  (Fumadil  & wrapped) the average spore  count  was  1,667
       spores  per bee,  and they had an average winter survival rate  of
       85%  and the amount of dysentery was extremely low.   In yards  #3
       and #4 (Fumadil but not wrapped) there were 24,834 spores per  bee
       and  they had an average winter survival rate of 85% and  was  not
       much  dysentery dtectable at these yards.  In yard #5 and  #6  (no
       Fumadil but wrapped) the average spore count was 66,665 spores per
       bee,  and 83% winter survival raate and there was a fair amount of
       dysentery on the outside of the hives, but the inside of the hives
       were still clean.   In yards #7 and #8 (no Fumadil & not  wrapped)
       the  spore  count  was  152,667 spores  per  bee,  with  only  31%
       surviving winter and dysentery covering the front of the hives, as
       well as the inside of the hives.

       Conclusions:   It  appears  that  if  the  bees  are  either  well
       protected for winter by wrapping or treated with Fumadil-B,  their
       winter survival is reasonable.   However, if the bees are  neither
       treated  with Fumadil-B,  nor protected by wrapping,  they do  not
       survive  winter well.   I conclude that winter protection is  more
       important  than  treating  with Fumadil-B (because  of  the  added
       expense).   If  the bees are not protected,  then  treatment  with
       Fumadil-B is essential.  Since other factors play a part in winter
       survival, more reasearch needs to be done.  (Carol is a 7th grader
       at  Valley  Community  School and daughter  of  Robert  and  Kathy
       Fassbinder , commercial beekeepers from Elgin, Iowa.)


























       Figure 1 - Number of Nosema      Figure 2 - Winter survival rate
       spores per bee in the spring     in the spring of 1994 after
       of 1994 after colonies were      colonies were treated with 
       treated with Fumadil (3+4),      Fumadil-B or wrapped or both
       wrapped (5+6), both (1+2) or     or neither.
       neither (7+8).
                               CALENDAR OF EVENTS
       JUNE         
       13           Eastcentral Iowa Beekeepers Meeting 7:00 p.m. in
                     basement   of   Montgomery  Hall,   Johnson   County
                     Fairgrounds, Iowa City
       16           Scott County Beekeeping Field Day 7:00 p.m. at Al
                     Gruber's beeyard, 1945 Wisconsin St. in Davenport.
       18           Central Iowa Beekeepers Dinner & Meeting 5:30 p.m. 
                     at Anson Park Shelter House in Marshalltown. 
                     Program at 6:30
       25           IHPA Board Mtg. 1:00 p.m. at Royal Cafe in Huxley.
       JULY
       13-15        Eastern Apicultural Society Annual Conference in
                    Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Contact Maryann Frazier
                    telephone: (814) 865-4621.

       23           IHPA/CIBA Summer Field Day at Riverside Church Camp,
                    Story City,  Iowa.   Contact Gordon Powell or Bob Cox
                    for further details.
       NOVEMBER     
       11-12        Iowa Honey Producers Annual Meeting in Marshalltown.
                           WHAT TO DO ABOUT SWARMING
       (Reprinted from the Alaska newsletter - By Dr.  Clarence Collison,
       Mississippi State University)
          Swarming  is  an instinctive desire of  honeybees  to  increase
       their  numbers  by reproducing at the colony  level,  giving  them
       twice  the chance to survive.   While this behavior is  not  fully
       understood, several factors contribute to the swarming impulse.
          The  major  factor  is congestion in the brood  area  which  is
       related  to population size and availability of  space.   Swarming
       also  is  associated  with  the  production  and  distribution  of
       chemicals  secreted  by the queen.   When there is a  shortage  of
       these secretions (queen substance),  the bees make queen cells  in
       preparation for swarming or supercedure (a natural replacement  of
       an established queen by a daughter in the same hive).
          Swarming  also may be modified by the weather.   When  colonies
       are strong and developing, good weather following some bad weather
       seems  to  accentuate  the swarming  fever.   Other  factors  that
       contribute to swarming include poor ventilation,  a failing queen,
       heredity  and  an  imbalance  in the  makeup  of  the  worker  bee
       population.    Most  swarming  occurs  during  April  and  May  in
       Mississippi, and you need to check the colonies every 8 to 10 days
       during this season.  The presence of queen cells in the brood area
       is  the  first  indication the colony is  preparing  to  swarm  or
       supercede  its queen.   Swarm cells are commonly found on or  near
       the  bottom  bars  of the combs in  the  upper  brood  chamber(s). 
       Whereas supercedure queen cells are generally found on the face of
       the comb.
          To  check  quickly  for swarm cells,  tip back  the  top  brood
       chamber(s) and look up between the frames,  destroy all (unsealed)
       swarm  cells.   Unfortunately,  cutting  out  queen  cells  seldom
       prevents  swarming;  it  only delays it  since  the  bees  usually
       construct  more  cells in a few days.   Once the bees  succeed  in
       capping a queen cell, they are committed to swarming.
       (Tennessee Apiculture March-April 1991)
          I am not hard hearted--some of the time but I have a hard  time
       feeling  sorry for people who allow their bees to swarm when  they
       don't  watch their bees.   July is our usual swarming time.   This
       year the first swarm was reported June the 5th.   Caging the queen
       first  week  of July to prevent swarming won't work as  well  this
       year due to the fact that the bees are swarming early.  It will do
       the other jobs in to brood rearing, etc., that I write about.
          Cutting out queen cells--my way of saying it--it is a waste  of
       time.   Why?   Because even experienced beekeepers miss  them  and
       when  the bees have their jogging shoes on cutting out cells  will
       not stop them, just slow them down a few days.  Separate the brood
       from  the queen by an excluder and give an uppper  entrance.   Let
       them swarm but stay in the hive.

       FOR SALE:  queen excluders, Kelley 33-frame extractor,  sump tank,
       1"  pump,  Dadant Wax melter, Cowen uncapper,  2 - 3000 gal.  S.S.
       corn syrup tanks,  and more.  Call days (608) 568-7601 or evenings
       (608) 748-4706.
                                        
       ESPY APPOINTS NEW MEMBERS TO NATIONAL HONEY BOARD
          Mike  Espy,  U.S.  Secretary  of  Agriculture,   appointed  two
       producer members,  one exporter member and one cooperative  member
       as  well  as alternates for each position to  the  National  Honey
       Board.   The new members'  three-year terms commenced April 1  and
       expire on March 31, 1997.
          H. Binford Weaver, Navasota, Texas, was reappointed to serve as
       producer member representing Region 5 (Al, AR, LA, MS, MO, OK,  TN
       and TX).   Bobby E.  Coy, Jonesboro, Arkansas was appointed as the
       alternate for Weaver.
          Stephen  A.  Conlon,  Proctor,  W.V. was appointed to serve  as
       producer member representing Region 7 (CT, DL, DC, IL, IN, KY, ME,
       MA,  NH,  NJ,  NY, NC, OH, PA, RI, SC, VT, VA, and WV).   David E.
       Hackenberg,  Lewisburg,  PA  was appointed as  the  alternate  for
       Conlon.
          John (Doug) McGinnis,  Edgewater,  FL was appointed to serve as
       exporter member.  Robert E. Coyle, Bellevue, WA, a honey importer,
       was appointed as the alternate for McGinnis.
          Newly appointed members of the nominating committee are:  Jerry
       A.  Brown,  Haddam, KS; Glenn E. Davis, Blue Springs, MO;  Todd D.
       Larson,  Billings,  MT; Joann M. Olstrom, Reedsport,  OR;  Glen R.
       Wollman,  Parker,  SD; Donald J. Kohn, Withee, WI;  and Charles D.
       Hannum, Arlington, VA.
          Reappointed  for three terms on the nominations committee  are:
       Reg G. Wilbanks, Claxton, GA; Donald T. O'Neill, Baton Rouge,  LA;
       Jacob C.  DeKorne, Ellsworth, MI; Darl B. Stoller,  Latty,  OH and
       Stephen H. Dilley, Nashville, TN.

       FRANK PELLETT, APICULTURE PIONEER, REMEMBERED
          An excellent article about the Hyssop honey plant,  a member of
       the mint family, by Ayers and Widrlechner was published in the May
       1994  American Bee Journal.   In this article quite a  mention  of
       Frank  Pellett  was made with respect to his work  on  this  honey
       plant. The following is quoted from this article:
          "Because of his extensive writing on the subject, Frank Pellett
       (1879-1951),  more  than  anyone else, created  a  place  in  U.S.
       apicultural history for A. foeniculum (anise hyssop).  Mr. Pellett
       was a well respected apiculturist.  He was the Iowa State Apiarist
       between 1912 and 1917,  a Field Editor of the American Bee Journal
       for  many  years,  and  then  an  Associate  Editor  of  the  same
       publication, a position he held until the end of his life.  He was
       instrumental in the pioneering research on American foulbrood.  He
       initiated and operated the American Bee Journal's Honey Plant Test
       Gardens  at  Atlantic,  Iowa.   He  was  a  careful  observer  who
       published  books  on  the history of  American  beekeeping,  queen
       rearing,    practical   beekeeping,   horticulture,   botany   and
       ornithology (Anonymous,  1951), but he is probably most remembered
       by today's beekeepers for his magnum opus,  American Honey Plants,
       which he revised several times through his life (1920, 1923, 1930,
       and  1947).   His proclamations about bee forage in  general  (and
       anise   hyssop  in  particular)  demanded  the  respect   of   the
       apicultural industry."  (Anonymous. 1951. Frank Pellett 1879-1951.
       American Bee Journal 91:234-237).
                        1994 SUMMER BEEKEEPING FIELD DAY

              Iowa Honey Producers & Central Iowa Beekeepers Assn.
                                        
                              Saturday, July 23rd

                    Riverside Bible Camp, 3001 Riverside Rd.
                              Story City, IA 50248
                              Phone (515) 733-5271

       Meeting Pre-registration                     $4.00       $________
       (Deadline - July 16)
                                     At the door    $5.00       $________
       (No prepared meal available if not pre-registered)**

       Noon meal*  in air-conditioned bldg.         $5.75       $________
                      Through age 3   - No charge
         Children:    Ages 4 - 10 yrs - $3.00
                      Ages 11 and up  - full price

       *  Includes  soup,  salad,  BBQ  sandwich  &  chips,   bread/roll,
       coffee/milk/coolaid

       ** Picnic tables outside if you would rather bring your own lunch.


       1994 MEMBERSHIP DUES:
       Iowa Honey Producers Association             $5.00       $________

       Central Iowa Beekeepers Association          $4.00       $________

                                                        =================

                                                        TOTAL   $________


       MAKE CHECK PAYABLE TO:  IOWA HONEY PRODUCERS ASSN.

       SEND CHECK AND FORM TO:     Gordon Powell
                                   4012 - 54th St.
                                   Des Moines, IA 50310
                                   (515) 278-1762


       NAME______________________________________________________________

       ADDRESS:__________________________________________________________

       CITY:____________________STATE_________________ZIP________________

       PHONE(____)_______________________No. of colonies_________________

       4/05/94


From terry-dahms@uiowa.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:15 EDT 1994
Article: 653 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: terry-dahms@uiowa.edu (Terry Dahms)
Subject: July 1994 'Buzz' - Iowa Beekeepers newsletter
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Keywords: newsletter iowa july 1994
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 1994 22:22:59 GMT

       Submitted by: Terry Dahms, Pres.
       East Central Iowa Beekeepers Assoc.
       internet: terry-dahms@uiowa.edu
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
                    THE BUZZ                     JULY, 1994
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
       A newsletter published monthly as a cooperative effort by The Iowa
       Department of Agriculture and Land Stewardship and The Iowa  Honey 
       Producers  Association  (IHPA),  an affiliate member of  the  Iowa
       Horticultural Society.   Copy deadline is the 20th of each  month. 
       Your  ideas,  comments  and letters are welcomed  and  encouraged. 
       EDITOR:   Bob  Cox,  State Apiarist,  Iowa Dept.  of  Agriculture,
       Wallace Building,  Des Monies, IA.   50319 Phone:  (515) 281-5736. 
       IHPA  MEMBERSHIP:   Membership dues in the  Iowa  Honey  Producers
       Assn. are $5.00/year.  Send to Gordon Powell, IHPA Treasurer.
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
                              PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE
       Dear Fellow Beekeepers,
          I think it is 1988,  but my age tells me it is 1994.   The bees
       up  until now look just like they did in 1988.   In April and  May
       the bees built up like they are suppose to do.   I think they look
       great.   Our queens were accepted just like they should be in  our
       new splits and even as we were requeening.   The bees were able to
       work  the dandelions this year,  as they haven't been able to  the
       past three to four years.   There was plenty of pollen and  nectar
       for them and the queens started laying real well.
          I  talked  to several other people that ordered two  and  three
       pound  packages  the middle of April, and the first of  June  were
       putting  on  honey supers.   The bees I have looked  at  the  post
       couple  of days were putting honey into the cells as fast  as  the
       brood  was hatching.   We have to be careful not let them plug  up
       their  brood chambers and crowd the queen out of laying space.   I
       feel that this can cause swarming.
          We  had a nice rain a few days ago,  maybe about two inches  or
       so.   This  should keep the flowers blooming for  the  bees.   The
       weather has been great this spring.  It's a refreshing change.
          Don't forget the Central Iowa/Iowa Honey Producers Field Day on
       July  23rd at the Riverside Bible Camp north of Story City.   This
       should be a fun day for the family.
          State Fair is just around the corner,  too.   It is not as  far
       off  as  it may seem.   Start planning to enter into  the  Apiary,
       Foods  made with Honey or Honey-Walnut Classic competition at  the
       fair this year.   There is great fun in doing this and prize money
       also.  An entry form for Apiary has been included on page 7.

       SCOTT COUNTY BEEKEEPERS ANNUAL PICNIC
          Sunday,  July  10th at 1:00 p.m.  the Scott  County  Beekeepers
       Association  will hold their annual picnic at the Duck Creek  Park
       Shelters on East Locust Street in Davenport,  Iowa.   A collection
       will  be  taken up to pay for fried chicken  catered  from  Riefes
       Restaurant.   You should bring a side dish,  salad or  dessert  to
       share and your own drink and table service.
          Come,  bring  a friend and compare notes on this  year's  honey
       crop.   Bring a small sample of liquid, creamed, or comb honey for
       others to taste.  Maybe this could be a time to make plans to take
       some of the best honey to the state fair in Des Moines in August.
       REMINDER TO ALL BEEKEEPING FAMILIES
          Help promote our favorite product--HONEY!   Bring your favorite
       honey-sweetened snack to the July 23rd Beekeeping Field Day at the 
       Riverside Bible Camp, Story City, Iowa.  Share a tasty honey treat
       with us.  See the program for the meeting on page 3.

                                         (insert Leo's signature)

       LAPLANDERS HONEY CONFERENCE
          Friday,  September  9th,  the Laplanders  Honey  Conference  of
       Southern Iowa and Northern Missouri will be held in Allerton, Iowa
       at the "Inn of the Six Toed Cat."   Dinner will be held at 6  p.m.
       and the program at 7 p.m.
          The  following day,  Saturday,  September 10th at 10  a.m.  the
       Honey-Walnut Classic will also be held at the "Inn"  in  Allerton. 
       Look for more details in next month's newsletter.

                               CALENDAR OF EVENTS
       JULY
       13-15        Eastern Apicultural Society Annual Conference in
                    Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Contact Maryann Frazier
                    telephone: (814) 865-4621.

       23           IHPA/CIBA Summer Field Day at Riverside Bible Camp,
                    Story City,  Iowa.   Contact Gordon Powell or Bob Cox
                    for further details.
       AUGUST
       11-21        Iowa State Fair Apiary Exhibit, 2nd Floor of
                    Agriculture Building.  Come see the best!

       SEPTEMBER - NATIONAL HONEY MONTH
       10-11        Laplanders Honey Conference 6:00 p.m. the 10th and
                    Honey Walnut Classic 10 a.m. the 11th both at the
                    Inn in Allerton, Iowa.

       NOVEMBER     
       11-12        Iowa Honey Producers Annual Meeting in Marshalltown.

       WANTED:   Contact  with  beekeepers who  collect  and  market  Bee
       Pollen.  We are examining the nutritional qualities of pollen from
       various crops,  as well as seeking suitable quantities for use  in
       our Raw Food products. Contact Raja Tamaran, Vital Health Network,
       P.O. Box 570, Kealakekua, Hawaii 96750 phone: (808) 328-8052 
       FAX (808) 329-7651.
       FOR  SALE:   Dadant 4-frame stainless extractor with  motor  (will
       handle  8 shallow frames) - $250;  40 gal.  galvanized  tank  with
       2-inch gate - $50; 12 shallow supers with comb - $5.00 ea.; 7 deep
       supers with frames, 2 smokers, 2 bee veils, electric uncapper.  My
       beeyard was destroyed by fire.  Contact Don Kraus, Box 275, Britt,
       IA 50423 phone: 515-843-3133.
       FOR  SALE:   Dadant 4-frame s/s extractor.  Hand  crank  or  power
       drive.  $125 w/out the motor.  Call Phil Ebert in Lynnville,  Iowa
       515-527-2639.
       STATE APIARISTS REPORT
          Please sign up to help in the State Fair Honey Booth this year. 
       It's a great way to spend a part of a day.  (see sign-up on p. 6)
          The number of swarms this year must be at least double that  of
       last year.  I am running that far ahead on bee swarm calls here in
       my office.   I think this year has caught a lot of beekeepers  off
       guard  after  last year's slow and poor build  up.   You  couldn't
       hardly split your bees enough this spring.
          Stan Weiser told me of the following incident that  illustrates
       how  frustrated  he  became  with trying to  stop  a  colony  from
       swarming.  Stan had been reversing the hive bodies, making splits,
       and cutting unsealed swarms cells to prevent swarming of his dozen
       or  so colonies in his back yard near Adel.   Despite all this  he
       watched  one of his colonies swarm one morning a couple  of  weeks
       ago.  It landed in the top of an evergreen tree in his yard, about
       30 feet off the ground.   It made him so angry that he got out his
       20 gauge shot gun and shot the swarm out of the tree.   As soon as
       the swarm was hit,  it dropped to the ground like lead.   Then the
       bees  dusted themselves off and all went back into the  hive  from
       which they issued.  Believe it or not!  (Explanation? Stan figures
       that he killed the queen and the demoralized swarm simply returned
       home.)
          Field inspectors will be starting in July and August.   We  are
       delaying inspections in the early summer so that we can save hours
       to  inspect  more  next  spring.  I  have  been  inspecting  those
       requesting it,  mainly in central and eastern Iowa.   We will have
       the  same  inspectors as last year working in the  same  counties,
       with  the exception of Bob Wells, who retired last July  1st.   If
       you  would  like your bees inspected,  contact my  office  in  Des
       Moines.  (State Apiarist, Iowa Dept. of Agriculture, Wallace State
       Office Building, Des Moines, Iowa 50319  phone: 515-281-5736)
          Beekeepers who have treated their colonies with Apistan  strips
       have  been getting a clean bill of health with respect  to  Varroa
       mites.   So far this year the highest levels of Varroa mites  have
       been  found in bees where the beekeeper was not aware that he  had
       Varroa yet.  Plan on treating with Apistan as soon as the honey is
       harvested from your colonies to avoid losses due to Varroa  mites. 
       Check  any weak colonies for signs of American  foulbrood  disease
       (i.e.  sunken,  perforated,  greasy, darkened cappings over  brood
       with a "melted-down",  gooey, chocolate-brown mass underneath  the
       capping).   These must be dealt with promptly to avoid  spread  to
       neighboring healthy colonies.
          The beekeeping class taught at the Des Moines Botanical  Center
       will conclude this month with the final field trip to the  beeyard
       to harvest honey (hopefully) and extract some honey to take  home. 
       We will meet at the beeyard Saturday,  July 16th at 10:00 a.m.  so
       that we can get done before its too hot.
          Don't  forget the IHPA/CIBA Beekeeping Field Day July  23rd  at
       the Riverside Bible Camp near Story City.   It should be a fun day
       for all the family.   The meeting place is air-conditioned.   Save
       time and a dollar by preregistering now on the form on page 9.  We
       are really looking forward to Dr. Spivak's presentation as well as
       the rest of the program.
       A LAND OF MILK AND HONEY
             While driving through the Wisconsin countryside I saw a sign
       on  the  side of a barn with the slogan "Bee Udderly  Cool,  Drink
       Milk  and Eat Honey."   Many consumers today have an  even  better
       idea--eat honey-sweetened ice cream.  Ranking 8th in the nation in
       milk production and around 15th in honey production,  Iowa is also
       "A  Land  Flowing  with  Milk and Honey"  (Bible  -  Exodus  3:8). 
       Several  years  ago the Iowa Honey Producers Association  got  the
       idea  to sell a small serving of honey-sweetened ice cream at  the
       State Fair Salesbooth as a way of promoting this use of honey,  as
       well as the use of honey in general.  
             Several  other state beekeeping organizations in  the  upper
       Midwest were selling honey ice cream and thought it was a  winner. 
       For  example,  Nebraska Honey Producers were contracting with  the
       University of Nebraska for producing several flavors of honey  ice
       cream, both soft and hard.
             Nebraska  State Apiarist,  Marion Ellis,  offered to let  us
       purchase  some  of their mix, but transportation  during  the  hot
       summer  seemed a problem.   We then contacted several  large  Iowa
       Dairies about making us a small batch for our needs at State Fair.
       Anderson-Erickson (A-E) Dairy of Des Moines seemed to be the  most
       interested  and the most convenient because the State Fair is also
       located  in Des Moines.   In order to taste the honey  flavor,  we
       felt  it  was important to keep the flavors simple,  so  we  tried
       Honey-Vanilla  and Honey-Almond premium ice cream.   We  contacted
       the   National   Honey  Board  who  provided   technical   support
       (commercial recipes,  etc.).  The Iowa Honey Producers Association
       provided a nice light-colored,  mild-flavored clover honey for the
       manufacture of the ice cream.
             The  first  two years we sold out the 7000 servings  of  ice
       cream before the end of the Fair.  Many people said they loved the
       ice  cream  and asked where they could purchase more  of  it.   In
       fact, the second year we collected signatures on a petition asking
       A-E Dairy to offer this for sale in the local grocery stores.
             In  1992,  A-E  Dairy decided to  produce  honey  ice  cream
       commercially using Iowa Honey Producers Honey.  In spite of delays
       due  to  the new nutrition labelling  requirements,  Honey  Almond
       premium  all-natural ice cream will be available to super  markets
       in  their  marketing  area by July 1st according  to  David  Bush,
       general manager, A-E Farms, Inc.
             Additionally,  A-E  Dairy  is teaming up  with  Sioux  Honey
       Association of Sioux City,  Iowa in a joint venture to develop and
       market honey-sweetened light ice cream.  Test marketing will begin
       this summer according a June 1st Des Moines Register article.
             Honey-sweetened yogurt,  dairy spreads and juice blends  are
       also on the drawing board.  Initial ice cream flavors will include
       honey-vanilla,    chocolate,    oatmeal-raisin    cookie    dough,
       mint-chocolate truffle,  honey-almond and peanut-butter cup.   The
       product will be in pints in the "super premium" category.
             We hope that the proposed products will be a big success and
       that the promotional efforts will pay off in a greater consumption
       of  honey  in  our area, increased business  opportunities  and  a
       better image of honey by the public.
                        1994 SUMMER BEEKEEPING FIELD DAY

              Iowa Honey Producers & Central Iowa Beekeepers Assn.
                                        
                              Saturday, July 23rd

                    Riverside Bible Camp, 3001 Riverside Rd.
                              Story City, IA 50248
                              Phone (515) 733-5271

        8:30 a.m. Registration - $5.00 for individuals or family (at the
                   door)  Sign up for door prizes.
                  Preregistration (before July 16)  $4.00.

        9:00 a.m. Bee Pasture Walking Tour                   Jim Cherry

        9:45 a.m. COFFEE BREAK with honey-made snacks that you bring.
                   (door prizes)
       10:00 a.m. IHPA President's Welcome                 Leroy Kellogg

       10:05 a.m. CIBA President's Welcome                   Arvin Foell

       10:10 a.m. Queen management Lecture -            Dr. Marla Spivak

       11:00 a.m. Demonstration of Queen management in the beeyard

       12:00 M    LUNCH
                   (door prizes)
        1:00 p.m. Concurrent Sessions
                  A.  Beginning Beekeeping (beeyard)             Bob Cox
                  B.  Pollen trapping                         Jim Cherry

        1:45 p.m. Concurrent Sessions
                  A.  Beginning Bee Diseases & Pests             Bob Cox
                  B.  Comb Honey Production (beeyard)       John Johnson

        2:30 p.m. BREAK
                   (door prizes)
        2:45 p.m. Minnesota Research Update             Dr. Marla Spivak

        3:15 p.m. Hot Topics in Beekeeping             Panel of Speakers

        4:00 p.m. ADJOURN

       FARM AUCTION:   July 16th at 9:00 a.m.  at the Bob & Phyllis  Gott
       residence, RR 1, Box 72, west of Ollie, Iowa.  FOR SALE: s/s honey
       extractor,  s/s bottling tank, 2 large s/s tanks,  honey strainer,
       uncapping knife,  5 gal. plastic buckets, bee blower,  foundation,
       new frames in box and other misc. beekeeping and farm equipment.
       DIRECTIONS:   From Iowa Hwy.  78 turn north 2 miles west of  Ollie
       Jct.  at the Golden Furrow Fertilizer Plant.   Go 1 mile north and
       1/8  mile  west  to home on the south side of  the  road.   Follow
       "Auction" signs.  For more info. call Phyllis at 515-667-3611.
       FOR  SALE:   7  2-story bee hives plus misc.  equipment.   Contact
       Raymond and Jo Whitwood in Muscatine, Iowa at 319-263-0992.
       FOR  SALE:   Dadant Gasoline-powered bee  blower.   Contact  Edwin
       Richardson,  2103  E.  156th St.  South,  Grinnell  50112.   (515)
       236-6034.
       FOR SALE:  Moving--must liquidate bee operation. 175 2-story hives
       - $50 @; 350 Illinois supers - $6.50 @; 40 shallow supers - $40 @;
       honey crop from 175 colonies - $40 @;  60-70 deep boxes (some w  &
       some w/o frames) - $2 @; 40-50 shallow supers (some w & some w/out
       frames) - $1.50 @; 1 box deep foundation - $135;  2 boxes Illinois
       foundation  - $140 @;  1 box cut-comb foundation $140;  Dadant  20
       frame stainless extractor - $1600; stainless capping tank -  $200;
       50 gal. stainless holding tank; other misc. beekeeping equipment -
       $400 = $21,000 for Complete Bee Operation.   Contact Keith &  Gail
       Rhodes in Fairfield, Iowa (515) 469-6628.

                    PECAN HONEYBALLS (A.B.F. contest recipe)
          1 cup butter or margarine      1/2 teaspoon salt
          1/4 cup honey                  2 teaspoons vanilla
          2 cups sifted flour            2 cups finely chopped pecans

       Cream butter; add honey gradually; add flour, salt & vanilla. Mix
       well.  Add chopped nuts & mix well.  Form into very  small  balls.
       Place on greased cookie sheet and bake in 300  oven 40-45 minutes.
       Roll hot honeyballs in powdered sugar and repeat when cool.




























       OBSERVATION HIVES--A REAL LEARNING EXPERIENCE 
          During  my eight years experience as a beekeeper,  much of  the
       factual   knowledge   I've  gained  has   come   from   magazines,
       newsletters,  bee  meetings  and talking  with  other  beekeepers. 
       Recently I've added my observation hive to that list of sources of
       bee  information.   It has been a good learning experience for  me
       and can be for you if you decide to purchase or build one.
          In  my  small operation,  the observation hive gets  used  more
       every year.  It's been used for a demonstration in kindergarten, a
       children's  sermon at church,  at the Iowa State Fair,  two  craft
       shows,  and at Cattle Congress in Waterloo.   When at home,  it is
       found  by the window in the guest bedroom.   My wife and son  look
       forward  to it's appearance every year.   The glass-sided hive  is
       really valuable when retailing honey at a craft show, because it's
       a good attention getter.
          Observation  hives give the opportunity to watch bee  behavior. 
       Bees can be seen filling the cells with nectar,  depositing pollen
       and propolis,  feeding each other and taking care of the queen and
       brood.   The queen provides most of the excitement  by  depositing
       eggs in the brood nest.
          The Iowa State Fair is a place to "show-case" observation hives
       in  the apiary division.   This year's fair is August 11-21.   The
       rules  for this class state that the observation hive must have  a
       standard size frame on the bottom for brood and a shallow frame or
       comb  honey  section frame above,  with bees and a  marked  queen. 
       Observation  hives must be built with adequate ventilation or  the
       bees  will  overheat  and  die in the  Ag  building  with  no  air
       conditioning.   They must also have a closeable opening  to  allow
       the bees to exit the hive.
          Extra prize money is available for the first 15 places in  this
       class at state fair.   If you need assistance or plans to build an
       observation hive, I would be happy to assist you.
       (from  Summer  1994  Central  Iowa Beelines  and  written  by  Tim
       Laughlin)

       HONEY BEES AND ENVIRONMENTAL CONTAMINATION
          Several  recent  discussions across Internet  computer  network
       about bee-collected propolis and pollen have concluded that  honey
       bees are excellent samplers of their environment.   This has  both
       good  and  bad aspects according to one of the  pioneers  in  this
       field,  Dr.  Jerry Bromenshenk, University of Montana.  Here are a
       couple  of  his "take home" messages concerning these  insects  as
       environmental monitors as they appeared in May Apis newsletter:
       1. Honey  bees  serve  as multi-media samplers  that  average  the
       concentrations of pollutants over time and throughout large areas. 
       Bees   sample  contaminants  in  all  forms  -  gaseous,   liquid,
       particulate  - and can detect chemicals in their  surroundings  at
       levels often difficult,  if not impossible,  to detect using  more
       conventional approaches - i.e. instrumentation.
       2. Most  of  the  contamination  (at least  as  indicated  by  the
       concentrations measured) ends up in the bees themselves and in the
       pollen.   Some  chemicals concentrate in  wax.   Generally,  honey
       seems to be less contaminated than pollen, bees, or wax.
                       1994 IOWA STATE FAIR WORK SCHEDULE

        Please  indicate the day(s) and time(s) that you are  willing  to
        work by writing your name(s).  Also,  fill in your name,  address
        and phone number at the bottom of the page.

        THURSDAY, AUGUST 11              TUESDAY, AUGUST 16
        9:00-1:30____________________    9:00-1:30____________________
        1:30-6:00____________________    1:30-6:00____________________
        6:00-9:00____________________    6:00-9:00____________________
        10:00-2pm____________________    10:00-2pm____________________
                 (Handing out samples)            (Handing out samples)

        FRIDAY, AUGUST 12                WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 17
        9:00-1:30____________________    9:00-1:30____________________
        1:30-6:00____________________    1:30-6:00____________________
        6:00-9:00____________________    6:00-9:00____________________
        10:00-2pm____________________    10:00-2pm____________________
                 (Handing out samples)            (Handing out samples)

        SATURDAY, AUGUST 13              THURSDAY, AUGUST 18
        9:00-1:30____________________    9:00-1:30____________________
        1:30-6:00____________________    1:30-6:00____________________
        6:00-9:00____________________    6:00-9:00____________________
        10:00-2pm____________________    10:00-2pm____________________
                 (Handing out samples)            (Handing out samples)

        SUNDAY, AUGUST 14                FRIDAY, AUGUST 19
        9:00-1:30____________________    9:00-1:30____________________
        1:30-6:00____________________    1:30-6:00____________________
        6:00-9:00____________________    6:00-9:00____________________
        10:00-2pm____________________    10:00-2pm____________________
                 (Handing out samples)            (Handing out samples)

        MONDAY, AUGUST 15                SATURDAY, AUGUST 20
        9:00-1:30____________________    9:00-1:30____________________
        1:30-6:00____________________    1:30-6:00____________________
        6:00-9:00____________________    6:00-9:00____________________
        10:00-2pm____________________    10:00-2pm____________________
                 (Handing out samples)            (Handing out samples)

        NAME:________________________    SUNDAY, AUGUST 21
                                         9:00-1:30____________________
        ADDRESS______________________    1:30-7:00____________________
                                         10:00-2pm____________________
        _____________________________             (Handing out samples)

        PHONE(_____)_________________

                                         RETURN TO:
                                         W. John Johnson
                                         RR 4, Squaw Valley
                                         Ames, IA 50010


From terry-dahms@uiowa.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:16 EDT 1994
Article: 654 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!cis.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!news.weeg.uiowa.edu!drone.weeg.uiowa.edu!terry-dahms
From: terry-dahms@uiowa.edu (Terry Dahms)
Subject: May 1994 'Buzz' - Iowa Beekeepers newsletter
Message-ID: <terry-dahms.2.00102456@uiowa.edu>
Keywords: newsletter
Lines: 427
Sender: news@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (News)
Nntp-Posting-Host: drone.weeg.uiowa.edu
Organization: Weeg Computing Center
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 1994 22:08:24 GMT

       Submitted by: Terry Dahms, Pres.
       East Central Iowa Beekeepers Assoc.
       internet: terry-dahms@uiowa.edu
       sorry for the delay in posting.
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
                     THE BUZZ                     MAY, 1994
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
       A newsletter published monthly as a cooperative effort by The Iowa
       Department of Agriculture and Land Stewardship and The Iowa  Honey 
       Producers  Association  (IHPA),  an affiliate member of  the  Iowa
       Horticultural Society.   Copy deadline is the 20th of each  month. 
       Your  ideas,  comments  and letters are welcomed  and  encouraged. 
       EDITOR:   Bob  Cox,  State Apiarist,  Iowa Dept.  of  Agriculture,
       Wallace Building,  Des Monies, IA.   50319 Phone:  (515) 281-5736. 
       IHPA  MEMBERSHIP:   Membership dues in the  Iowa  Honey  Producers
       Assn. are $5.00/year.  Send to Gordon Powell, IHPA Treasurer.
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
       HANDLING BEE PROBLEM CALLS
          Spring  is the time when insects become active and some of  the
       insects   cause  people  problems.    Beekeepers,   pest   control
       operators, bee inspectors, county extension, ASCS, police and fire
       department  personnel may all receive telephone  calls  concerning
       "bees"  causing problems.  Many of these situations do not involve
       honey bees.
          Problems  range  from bees digging burrows in  the  garden,  to
       angry  hornets,  to a large scale honey bee hive spill  due  to  a
       truck wreck.   Your first job in fielding this type of call is  to
       determine,  as best as you can, if it is an emergency because bees
       are stinging people and what type of insect is involved.
          The best way, if it is an emergency or you are close by and you
       have the time, is to go over and check out the situation yourself. 
       However,  that  is  not  often  possible  and  you  should  gather
       information over the phone.  Ask about the location of the caller,
       the appearance of the insect, the number of insects,  the location
       of the bees'  activity or nest and the appearance of the nest,  if
       they can see it.
          If  there  has  been a highway accident with  honey  bee  hives
       spilled  out on the road,  call a fire department to come  to  the
       scene  with  water and hoses.   The fire department needs  to  add
       liquid soap or film forming foam to the water and spray bees  down
       with this solution.   A solution of at least 3% soap or foam  will
       knock bees down and kill them.  A fine spray is most affective for
       clearing the air of bees and making it safe to rescue victims from
       the wreckage.
          The  time  of the year will give you a clue as to the  type  of
       insect.   Generally  most  calls in the spring  and  early  summer
       involve swarms of honey bees. These may be either hanging from the
       limb  of  a tree or nesting inside a tree or inside  the  wall  or
       soffit  of a home or other building.   If their combs are  visible
       you will notice that they hang vertically.  About 3/4 of the calls
       that  come into the State Apiarists office here  involved  problem
       bees or wasps inside structures and the remainder are free hanging
       swarms of honey bees.
          The free hanging swarms (clusters) of bees that are low to  the
       ground (up to 10 feet) are valuable to some beekeepers, especially
       in  the month of May.   Most beekeepers do not feel that  removing
       colonies  of  bees from inside structures is a profitable  use  of
       time.   But occasionally,  there is a beekeeper who will remove  a
       colony of bees from a building for a fee.
          If  you determine that the caller has honey bees,  call one  of
       the beekeepers listed on the cover of THE BUZZ located nearest  to
       you  to obtain name of beekeeper in your local area.   The  county
       ASCS  office may also have names and phone numbers  of  beekeepers
       registered for pesticide notification in your county.
          Honey  bees do not often swarm after July.   Therefore most  of
       the calls in late summer and fall involve yellow jacket wasps  and
       hornets.   Hornets make a gray paper nest the shape of a  football
       that  hangs from the limb of a tree.   The nest  contains  several
       horizontally  stacked  paper  combs  connected  by  pedestals  and
       covered by several paper envelopes. An individual hornet is  black
       in appearance with white markings and is larger than a honey bee.
          Yellow  jackets range in size from smaller than a honey bee  to
       as  large  as a hornet and have bright yellow and  black  stripes. 
       Their  paper  nests are inside a structure like  honey  bees,  but
       unlike honey bees, some species may also nest underground.  If the
       nest  is visible,  you may see several layers of outside  covering
       like  the hornet nest and horizontal combs hanging by one or  more
       pedestals.  Some  of these colonies may  contain  several  hundred
       thousand individuals.   These insects are the ones that ruin  your
       picnics  in the late summer and fall.   They like anything  sweet:
       your  peanut butter and jelly sandwich,  soda pop or fruit.   They
       also eat insects and forage on car grills, eating the dead insects
       deposited there while driving.
          If  you  determine that the caller has yellow jacket  wasps  or
       hornets, it is best to refer them to local pest control operators.

       SUMMER BEEKEEPING FIELD DAY
          Saturday,  July 23rd the Iowa Honey Producers and Central  Iowa
       Beekeepers  Association  will hold a beekeeping field day  at  the
       Riverside Bible Camp near Story City, Iowa.   There is easy access
       to  the  camp which is located just 2 miles off of I-35  about  20
       miles north of Ames. Registration is at 8:30 a.m.  and the program
       will last until 4:00.
          The  University  of  Minnesota  Bee  Research  Laboratory  will
       present a program on queen management:  finding and evaluating the
       queen, queen selection, breeding, rearing methods, replacement and
       introduction methods.   Everyone attending will get a copy of  the
       new disease booklet published by the University of Minnesota.   We
       are planning on door prizes and honey-made snacks that you bring.
          The morning will start out with a walking tour of bee plants on
       the  grounds.   Breakout sessions in the  afternoon  will  include
       choices  of  Comb  Honey Production,  Pollen  Trapping,  Beginning
       Beekeeping,  or Bee Diseases and Pests.  We will finish up the day
       with a research update from the University of Minnesota and a "Hot
       Topics" question and answer session.
          The  camp  setting is a great place for  beekeepers  and  their
       families.   There  is  a beeyard with  a  screened-in  observation
       building  on the property.   Some of the talks and the  noon  meal
       will    be   held   in   an   air-conditioned   retreat    center. 
       Pre-registration  is required for a prepared meal or you may bring
       your own lunch and eat at picnic tables outside.
          For  more  information contact one of  the  committee  members: 
       Margaret Hala,  Leo Stattelman, Margaret Hala, Gordon Powell,  Jim
       Cherry or Bob Cox.
                                        
       TO DO IN THE BEEYARD
          SWARM  PREVENTION - Because the colonies that survived  are  so
       full of brood, you will need to split colonies,  equalize brood or
       make   two-queen  colonies  to  prevent  swarming   this   Spring. 
       Reversing  the  two  hive bodies when the top box  fills  up  with
       brood,   honey  and  bees  will  also  help  discourage  swarming.
       Prevention is the key!
       CAUTION:  Cutting out sealed queen cells may result in a queenless
       colony and will not usually stop swarming anyway; it's too late.
          MAKING INCREASE - Early in the month you can still make  splits
       to  replace  winter losses and increase the  number  of  colonies. 
       Make them a little larger now (e.g. 6-7 frames of brood).
          CHECK  FOR  VARROA & FOULBROOD - ignoring these will  not  make
       them go away.

       CALENDAR OF EVENTS
       MAY 7-8      Queen Rearing Short Course, University of Minnesota
                    St. Paul Campus, Call Dr. Spivak at (612) 624-2275.
       JUNE         
       11           IHPA Board Mtg. 1:00 p.m. at Royal Cafe in Huxley.
       13           Eastcentral Iowa Beekeepers Meeting 7:00 p.m. in
                    Montgomery  Hall,  Johnson County  Fairgrounds,  Iowa
       City
       18           Central Iowa Beekeepers Meeting 6:30 p.m. at Royal
                    Cafe in Huxley.
       JULY
       13-15        Eastern Apicultural Society Annual Conference in
                    Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Contact Maryann Frazier
                    telephone: (814) 865-4621.

       23           IHPA/CIBA Summer Field Day at Riverside Church Camp,
                    Story City,  Iowa.   Contact Gordon Powell or Bob Cox
                    for further details.
       NOVEMBER     
       11-12        Iowa Honey Producers Annual Meeting in Marshalltown.

       NEW NHB HONEY RECIPE FOLDER
          A  new brochure (depicted on the front cover) published by  the
       National Honey Board teaches cooks how to "make magic in  minutes"
       with honey.  The three-color, eight panel brochure is a collection
       of  quick and easy tips for adding honey to  dressings,  desserts,
       drinks,  sauces and spreads.  Recipes vary from broiled bananas to
       lemonade to Dijon tarragon sauce.  As the brochure cover explains: 
       it's  easy  to drizzle,  to dabble, to sizzle,  to dazzle  --  use
       honey.  For a free sample of the "Make Magic in Minutes" brochure,
       send a self-addressed, stamped envelope to:   National Honey Board
       Magic, 421 - 21st Ave., Ste. 203, Longmont, CO 80501.   Quantities
       are available for 15 cents each.
       HAWKEYE SCIENCE FAIR AWARDS
          The  state-wide Hawkeye Science Fair was held April 8-9 at  the
       Merle Hay Mall in Des Moines.  Two science fair projects involving
       honey bees deserve special recognition.
          Carol Fassbinder,  7th grader of Valley-Elgin school,  had  the
       best honey bee project and received a $50.00 award.   In addition,
       she  placed 2nd overall in the 7th grade Biology division.   Carol
       studied  the  effect of treating for nosema disease  and  wrapping
       colonies on winter survival of honey bee colonies belonging to her
       family.   Carol is the daughter of commercial beekeepers  Bob  and
       Kathy  Fassbinder of Elgin,  Iowa.  A research article about  this
       project will appear in the June BUZZ.
          Kristin  Burgess,   10th  grader  from   Stuart-Menlo   school,
       received  a  $25 award for her interesting project  entitled  "The
       Smelling  Bee".   She obtained worker honey bees from  Ken  Lappe,
       beekeeper from Casey,  to test the bees'  preference for different
       fruit  odors.    She  constructed a simple  olfactometer  and  her
       testing  revealed that the bees most often preferred the pear  and
       least  often to the orange and the apple in between when  given  a
       choice.

       EASTERN APICULTURE SOCIETY SHORT COURSE AND CONFERENCE
          The  annual  EAS short course and conference will  be  held  in
       Lancaster, Pennsylvania July 11-15.  The short course will offer a
       choice  of beginning beekeeping or beekeeping as a  business  July
       11,  12 and the morning of the 13th.   The conference will be held
       during the balance of the week.   Other activities include a  tour
       of  Dutch Gold Honey packing business and Kitchen Kettle  Village,
       located in an Amish community.
          Speakers for the conference include:   Andrew Matheson  (IBRA),
       Jim Tew (USDA), William Towne, David Fletcher,  Clarence Collison,
       Cliff Sunflower,  and Theodor Cherbuliez;  Master Beekeeper & M.D.
       on Apitherapy.   Workshop highlights include presentations by  Kim
       Flottum on "Generating Good Public Relations for Your  Association
       or Business"  and "Writing the Perfect Newsletter,"  Tom McCormack
       on  marketing,  Dennis  Keeney on backyard  queen  rearing,  Cliff
       Sunflower  on developing effective school programs and much,  much
       more.
          For  more  information  on  the  conference  and  short  course
       including  a  registration form and copy of  the  program,  please
       contact:
               Joe Duffy                           Maryann Frazier
               309 Clivden Street       or         Dept. of Entomology
               Glenside, PA 19038                  501 ASI Bldg.
               (717) 885-1681                      Univ. Park, PA 16802
                                                   (814) 865-4621

       EAST CENTRAL IOWA BEEKEEPERS MEETING
          Monday  March  14 the East Central Iowa Beekeepers met  at  the
       Fairgrounds  in  Iowa City.   The 14 members present  reported  an
       average of 33% winter loss out of 186 hives collectively.
          An  announcement  was  made  about  Paul  Goossen  teaching   a
       beekeeping  class  at  the Amana Middle School  in  Middle  Amana.   
       This is an 8-week course taught through Kirkwood Community College
       and beginning April 9th at 9:00 - 11:00 a.m.
          Dave  Irwin  lead a discussion about participating  again  this
       year at the Johnson County Fair. It was the consensus of the group
       to  set up a table again with an observation bee hive if the  fair
       board will give permission and to hand out honey candy.
          Cleo   Troyer   brought  a  video  entitled   Controlling   Bee
       Emergencies  to show to the group.   The group watched  the  video
       which was produced for fire departments to instruct them on how to
       handle an overturned truck load of bee hives or nuisance colonies.
          The  evening ended with the members attempting to  assemble  an
       observation bee hive that President,  Terry Dahms,  had purchased. 
       The  next meeting meeting is scheduled for June 13th at 7:00  p.m.
       in  the  basement  of  Montgomery  Hall  at  the  Johnson   County
       Fairgrounds  in  Iowa City.   Anyone interested in  beekeeping  is
       invited.

       NEW UNIVERSITY OF GEORGIA VARROA RESEARCH
          New  research  from The University of Georgia may  support  the
       notion  that secondary pathogens compound damage to  bee  colonies
       from  Varroa mites.   Experimental colonies infested  with  Varroa
       mites  were  treated  with  various  combinations  of   Terramycin
       antibiotic  and  Apistan miticide.  Each  product  increased  body
       weight   of  mature  hive  bees  of  mixed  ages.    Additionally,
       Terramycin increased body weight of newly-emerged bees.
          Reduced  body weight is one of the best documented  effects  of
       Varroa  mites on honey bees,  and low body weight is linked  to  a
       shortened lifespan.   Since Terramycin counteracted this  negative
       effect,  supplemental antibiotic treatments,  along  with  Apistan
       miticide, may optimize benefit to Varroa infested colonies.
       (from January 1994 APIS newsletter, Univ. of Florida, Gainesville)

       BAKERS WILL GET SWEET SURPRISE IN WELBILT BREAD MACHINES
          Purchasers  of Welbilt bread machines will soon get a bonus  --
       the  National  Honey  Board's "Breads &  Spreads"  brochure.   The
       brochure includes recipes for Honey Whole Wheat Bread,  Poppy Seed
       Loaf,  Dutch Dill Bread and Cajun Tomato Bread.  Honey spreads are
       highlighted  in  the brochure as delectable toppings  for  breads,
       muffins and rolls.  The Welbilt Corporation inserted the brochures
       in 100,000 of its bread machines.
          "I  tried  all  of  the recipes myself  and  the  results  were
       delicious"  said Mary Humann,  marketing director for the National
       Honey Board.   Humann added that the bread recipes were  developed
       especially for the Welbilt machines -- adjustments to the  recipes
       may be required when they are used with other machines.
          The  Honey  Board  has  a limited  quantity  of  bread  machine
       brochures available.   If you would like a free copy,  please send
       your request to:
             Bread Machine Brochure
             National Honey Board
             421 - 21st Ave., #203
             Longmont, CO 80501

                              HONEY BARBECUE SAUCE
                            1/2    cup minced onion
                              1    clove garlic, minced
                              1    tablespoon vegetable oil
                              1    can (8 oz.) tomato sauce
                            1/2    cup honey
                              2    tablespoons vinegar
                              2    tablespoons minced parsley
                              1    tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
                            1/4    teaspoon black pepper
                            1/8    teaspoon cayenne pepper

       Saute  onion  and  garlic in oil until  softened.   Add  remaining
       ingredients and bring to boil;  reduce heat and simmer 5  minutes. 
       Makes 1 cup.   Marinate beef, chicken or pork in sauce.   Brush on
       meat during barbecuing or broiling.

       Quick tip:   Add 1/4 cup honey to 1 cup of your favorite  prepared
       barbecue sauce.

                           HONEY HERB BARBECUE SAUCE
                            1/2    cup honey
                            1/2    cup minced onion
                            1/4    cup dry white wine
                              1    tablespoon   each  lemon   juice   and
                                    chopped fresh rosemary*
                              1    clove garlic, minced
                                   Salt and pepper to taste

       Combine  all  ingredients in saucepan and bring to  boil.   Reduce
       heat and simmer 5 minutes.  Makes 1 cup.   Marinate chicken pieces
       at  least  1/2 hour before barbecuing or broiling;  brush  chicken
       with sauce during cooking.

       *One teaspoon dried crushed rosemary may be substituted.


                              HONEY LIME MARINADE
                            3/4    cup honey
                            2/3    cup fresh lime juice
                              1    tablespoon grated fresh ginger root
                              2    teaspoons minced garlic

       Combine all ingredients;  mix well.   Makes 1-3/4 cups.   Marinate
       chicken  or  turkey cutlets at least 1/2 hour before  grilling  or
       broiling; brush cutlets with marinade during cooking.
       (Recipes courtesy of the National Honey Board)






       IOWA HONEY PRODUCERS BOARD MEETING NEWS
          The board of directors of the Iowa Honey Producers  Association
       met  March  12th in Cambridge.   Highlights  included  planning  a
       summer field day,  the decision to sell honey lemonade instead  of
       honey  ice cream this year at the Iowa State Fair and  selling  of
       the  new  National  Honey  Board's  honey  cookbook.    These  new
       cookbooks are available now through the mail and will be available
       at the Summer Field Day in July (see article elsewhere in BUZZ).
          John  Johnson asked for more help for staffing the  State  Fair
       Salesbooth again this year.   Note was also made that the Fair  is
       one week earlier than in recent years.  Bid sheets for honey sales
       will  be  published  in  the June BUZZ  newsletter  and  the  work
       schedule sign-up in the July issue.
          The next meeting of the board is scheduled for Saturday June 11
       at 1:00 at the Royal Cafe in Huxley.

       CLEO TROYER OF KALONA DIES

          Cleo  Troyer,  just  10 days shy of  his  70th  birthday,  died
       Tuesday,  April 19 at University of Iowa Hospitals in  Iowa  City. 
       Cleo had surgery for a brain tumor at the end of March and  seemed
       to be doing fine when he died suddenly.   His funeral was April 22
       at the Lower Deer Creek Mennonite Church near Kalona, where he was
       an active member.  The church is large and was packed with  family
       and friends.
          Cleo  was  a  long time beekeeper and was active  in  the  East
       Central  Iowa Beekeepers.  He will be remembered for the  help  he
       gave  to  us less experienced beekeepers and  his  enthusiasm  for
       beekeeping.   At past meetings he had demonstrated a  bee  removal
       vacuum he purchased,  a home-made video on beekeeping that starred
       himself, and at the March 14 meeting a video on bee emergencies he
       had purchased.  We will miss him. 
          For  a  combined total of 26 years he was either  on  the  City
       Council  or  mayor of Kalona.  In a Cedar Rapids  Gazette  article
       about Cleo,  a resident was quoted as saying Cleo knew where every
       line,  every  pipe  was  in Kalona,  along  with  the  history  of
       everything.  At  his funeral service, many were  wiping  eyes  and
       blowing noses.  The community of Kalona will dearly miss him too!
                                - Terry Dahms
                                  President, East Central Iowa Beekeepers

       FOR SALE:   Approx.  75 - 5 11/16"  honey supers with drawn  comb,
       fair condition $2.00 each.  Approx. 50 - 5 11/16"  honey supers w/
       and w/o frames and no comb, good condition $1.00 each.  Empty deep
       supers  (shells),  fair  condition $1.00  each.   Several  hundred
       unassembled 9 1/8" and 5 3/8" frames, grooved top bars.  Plus lots
       of misc. equipment.  Will sell cheap.  Great for a beginner.
       Call (712) 589-3606 in Braddyville, Iowa.

       FOR SALE:  CLOVER HONEY IN BARRELS OR PAILS.  
       CALL Lapp's Bee Supply Center.  1-800-321-1960


       WARNING!!
          The following warning was sent to Bob Cox, Iowa State Apiarist,
       by Mississippi's State Apiarist, Harry Fulton.  
          Russell Apiaries,  J.N.  Russell proprietor,  of Bolton,  MS is
       advertising  in  national bee magazines but is  not  certified  in
       Mississippi.   The  owner is refusing inspection.   Packages  from
       Russell  Apiaries  should not be purchased for  shipment  to  Iowa
       because it would be an illegal shipment.  Additionally, these bees
       may  be  carrying  diseases or parasites damaging  to  your  other
       colonies and your neighbor's.


                               A HONEY OF A VERSE

       "The sluggard will not plow by reason of the cold; therefore shall
       he beg in harvest, and have nothing." (Proverbs 20:4)

       It's time to be in the beeyard preparing your bees to make honey.




































From terry-dahms@uiowa.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:17 EDT 1994
Article: 655 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!ukma!jobone!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!yeshua.marcam.com!MathWorks.Com!news.duke.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!panther.Gsu.EDU!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!news.weeg.uiowa.edu!drone.weeg.uiowa.edu!terry-dahms
From: terry-dahms@uiowa.edu (Terry Dahms)
Subject: August 1994 'Buzz' - Iowa Beekeepers newsletter
Message-ID: <terry-dahms.5.0010740D@uiowa.edu>
Keywords: august 1994 iowa newsletter
Lines: 427
Sender: news@news.weeg.uiowa.edu (News)
Nntp-Posting-Host: drone.weeg.uiowa.edu
Organization: Weeg Computing Center
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 1994 22:27:05 GMT

       Submitted by: Terry Dahms, Pres.
       East Central Iowa Beekeepers
       internet: terry-dahms@uiowa.edu
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
                   THE BUZZ                     AUGUST, 1994
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
       A newsletter published monthly as a cooperative effort by The Iowa
       Department of Agriculture and Land Stewardship and The Iowa  Honey 
       Producers  Association  (IHPA),  an affiliate member of  the  Iowa
       Horticultural Society.   Copy deadline is the 20th of each  month. 
       Your  ideas,  comments  and letters are welcomed  and  encouraged. 
       EDITOR:   Bob  Cox,  State Apiarist,  Iowa Dept.  of  Agriculture,
       Wallace Building,  Des Monies, IA.   50319 Phone:  (515) 281-5736. 
       IHPA  MEMBERSHIP:   Membership dues in the  Iowa  Honey  Producers
       Assn. are $5.00/year.  Send to Gordon Powell, IHPA Treasurer.
       ------------------------------------------------------------------
       STATE APIARIST REPORT
          We now have two field inspectors working in the western part of
       the  state and the 12th of the month we will start  inspecting  in
       northeastern Iowa.  We are looking for an experienced beekeeper to
       inspect for about 6-8 weeks this fall and 6-8 weeks next spring in
       the northcentral,  central and/or the southeast part of the state. 
       The  beekeeper must reside in one of those areas to  qualify.   If
       you  are interested or have any suggestions for someone who  might
       be, give me a call at 515-281-5736.
          The  honey flow has slowed considerably since  June.   However,
       many beekeepers are reporting a good crop from clover already  and
       are hoping for some late flows from soybeans and wildflowers.  The
       southeast  part  of  the state looks to be  the  best,  especially
       considering  that  they have had almost no crop  for  four  years. 
       This is a good time of the season to take some of that nice  light
       colored honey off the hives and keep it separate.   The extraction
       process  is  much simpler with fewer robbing bees  and  the  honey
       temperature warmer.
          This  is also a good time to prepare products to enter  in  the
       State Fair.   All you need is six jars of honey,  sections of comb
       honey,  a frame of honey, a 3-pound chunk of beeswax, candles,  or
       an observation beehive to enter.   Fill out the entry form in last
       month's newsletter and send in with the nominal entry fee.  If you
       need help getting entries to the fair in Des Moines,  let me know,
       and I'll see if I can find someone else in your area who is coming
       to the fair.

       BOOK REVIEW: Almond Pollination Handbook by Joe Traynor
             You might ask why should an Iowa beekeeper be interested  in
       a handbook on almond pollination.  I'll give you two reasons.  1.)
       Many  of  the  principles of pollinating  almonds  also  apply  to
       pollinating  any  crop,  especially other tree  fruits.  2.)   The
       demand  for  honey bees to pollinate California  almonds  and  the
       opportunity  to earn some cash during an off-time of the year  may
       be attractive to some Iowa beekeepers.
             The book is divided into two sections, the first section for
       the  almond grower and the second for the beekeeper.   Topics  for
       the grower include:  orchard design for pollination, renting bees,
       pollination   management,   bee  removal  and   alternate   insect
       pollinators.   This section makes this book the ideal gift for  an
       orchardist  for  which  you are  currently  providing  pollination
       services  or  a prospective customer. A similar manual  for  fruit
       growers  in  Iowa (primarily,  apples and  some  cherries,  pears,
       plums, peaches and apricots) would certainly be valuable.
             The section written for the beekeeper covers topics such  as
       pollination agreements,  state regulations,  theft,  bee delivery,
       pesticides,  preparing colonies, bee removal, time and duration of
       bloom and grower-beekeeper communication.
             This  86-page handbook is well written and printed  on  nice
       glossy paper, well organized for easy reference, and has some nice
       color photography.  And last, but not least,  the price is right--
       $7.00  (which includes shipping and handling).   To obtain a  copy
       send a check to Kovak Books, P.O. Box 1422, Bakersfield, CA 93302.

       LAPLANDERS HONEY CONFERENCE
          Friday,  September  9th,  the Laplanders  Honey  Conference  of
       Southern Iowa and Northern Missouri will be held in Allerton, Iowa
       at the "Inn of the Six Toed Cat."  Dinner will be served at 6 p.m.
       and the program to follow at 7 p.m.
          "The Honey Market:  What's Out There?" will be the theme of the
       conference.   Lisa  Terry,  the 1994  American  Honey  Queen  from
       Northfield,  Minnesota,  will be one of the guest speakers for the
       evening.   Joining her will be Leon Metz,  honey packer from Hazel
       Green, Wisconsin.
          Do join us for dinner and for this timely program.  For further
       details  and  reservations  contact: Ann  Garber  515/872-3119  by
       Tuesday, September 6th.
          The  fourth  annual  Honey-Walnut  Classic  will  be  held  the
       following day,  Saturday,  September 10th at 10 a.m.  on the  east
       portico of the "Inn"  in Allerton.   This popular event honors the
       historic "Iowa-Missouri Honey War, 1838-1841."

       NATIONAL HONEY BOARD ANNUAL MEETING HELD
          The National Honey Board held its annual meeting in Denver June
       17.   The Board elected Neil Miller, Blackfoot, Idaho,  as its new
       chairman during the meeting.   Randy Johnson,  Nampa,  Idaho,  was
       elected  as vice president and Steve Klein,  Marshall,  Minnesota,
       was  re-elected  as  secretary/treasurer.   Two  additional  Board
       members,  Binford  Weaver,  Navasota,  Texas,  and  Larry  Krause,
       Riverton,  Wyoming, were elected to serve on the Board's Executive
       Committee.
          The  Executive  Committee  is responsible for  the  conduct  of
       duties  and  policies outlined by the National Honey  Board.   The
       Board administers an industry-funded national research,  promotion
       and  consumer  information  program  to  increase  domestic  honey
       consumption and U.S. honey exports.
          The board member's work at the meeting also included allocating
       funds  for the 1995 plan year.  "The Board will be  reviewing  the
       Committee's  work this fall,"  said Neil Miller,  chairman of  the
       National Honey Board.  "Before the Board spends a dime,  we review
       the  program plans to ensure that they uphold the Board's  mission
       --  to  support  a strong and viable domestic  honey  industry  by
       creating a dynamic marketplace for honey and honey products."
       4-H ESSAY CONTEST NEEDS ENTRIES (from June 1994 APIS newsletter)
          What does it take to get 4-Hers to sit down and write an essay? 
       That's  the  burning  question those at  the  American  Beekeeping
       Federation  (ABF)  and  myself are asking  after  looking  at  the
       results  of  last  year's 4-H essay contest.   Only  fifteen  (15)
       states  submitted  winners  and (Iowa) was  not  among  them.   In
       addition,  the vast majority of these states had only one  to  two
       entries to choose from.  There are three top cash prizes each year
       ($250,  $100 and $50),  plus the winner in each state is awarded a
       book on beekeeping.  This boils down to one fact:  there's a great
       opportunity to win something by simply entering!
          The  rules  for this year's contest have just  been  announced. 
       The topic this year is much different than from previous contests. 
       The  essayist  is asked to write an original story on  honey  bees
       suitable   for  a  teacher  to  read  to  second-grade   students. 
       Suggested titles include:   The Busy Little Bee,  I Like Honey,  A
       Trip to the Apiary, or My Friend,  the Beekeeper.   There's plenty
       of time to get a story together for this year's contest;  deadline
       is April 1, 1995! 
          Full contest rules are available from Bob Cox,  State Apiarist,
       phone 515-281-5736 or the ABF Office, phone 912-427-8447.

       A BEGINNER'S BAIT HIVES by Peter Coyle
          Having read in John Vivian's book,  Keeping Bees,  about  "bees
       for free,"  by placing bait hives in trees and then,  again in the
       Aebi's  book about their bait hives,  my Scottish  parsimony  took
       over.   Last year I made my first swarm trap and was excited  when
       some  scout  bees started sniffing around and into  it.   However,
       some  of  Walt Disney's beloved delinquent  squirrels  knocked  on
       wood, tasted it and found it good, wherein the bees departed.
          Unable  to  harass  my  bees during the  winter,  I  turned  to
       collecting on bait hives,  which being a novice in the  beekeeping
       game,  is  my substitute for knowledge.   I got  Cornell's,  "Bait
       Hives for Honey Bees"  by Seeley,  Morse and Nowogrodzki and could
       just  see  the bees rolling in.  Then there were the  articles  by
       Schmidt, Thoenes and Hurley, from the American Bee Journal,  which
       explained the importance of pheromone lures,  which I just knew  I
       had to have.   I could visualize all those winter clusters of bees
       over  half  of Iowa impatient to zoom into my traps.   However,  a
       catalog  price of twenty dollars for what they described as  being
       made of inexpensive material,  and what I gathered would only be a
       kind of paper mache, deep, brood box, sent me to the workshop with
       cardboard and thin plywood scraps to construct an alternative.
          I  had read that a volume roughly the size of a deep hive  body
       was  most  favored,   (although  recently  opinion  has  changed). 
       Climbing  ladders and trees with a full box of bees  required  the
       box to be as light as possible.   Everything I made had a coating,
       externally,  of  roof cement,  thinned with   mineral  spirits  to
       sicken  the squirrels off and I capped each hive with a  lid  made
       from   discarded   aluminum  soffit  to   keep   everything   dry. 
       Internally,  each had homemade rough frames of standard  dimension
       with  a waxed starter strip which would easily transfer to a  deep
       hive body.  I then sat and itched for Spring.
          The  last  week in April,  I was out with the  ladder  visiting
       friends who might have suitable spots in trees about ten to twelve
       feet  up,  with  morning  sun and afternoon  shade,  just  as  the
       literature suggested.   Now,  at the end of June, I have had three
       swarms from one hive and two from another,  with scout bees  still
       buzzing  around  the  emptied boxes.  The  first  swarm,  which  I
       weighed like a proud father,  was five and a half pounds and  made
       some nice comb honey for me.   The last one,  which was so big  it
       filled  the  whole  trap  and had a pound or  two  of  bees  still
       outside,  I  collected  in  a screened  box  using  a  funnel  and
       transferring  it  to a medium super of foundation  and  two  round
       section  supers  at  dusk,  feeling  exhilarated  beyond  measure. 
       However,  the next day, when I looked in the afternoon,  they were
       gone,  leaving  me as devastated as I had been  exhilarated.   Too
       late, I now have two homemade entrance guards.
          In  collecting one swarm which had started to build  comb  from
       the  bottom of the trap,  I missed the open sack on the end  of  a
       pole,  held  helpfully by my companion and neighbor,  Cheryl,  and
       brushed a couple pounds of less than happy bees on her head.  This
       made me more acquainted with the language of liberation.
          Two  other bait hives in suburbia have never had a  snifter  so
       far.  Perhaps in bee real estate the three most  important  things
       are location, location and location.
          My experience,  limited as it is, suggests that I should err on
       the  large  side with the boxes,  worrying less about  the  spaces
       around the frames, as the bees are unlikely to construct burr comb
       between  inspections,  although one swarm built comb  on  about  a
       third of nine frames in just a couple of days.
          The mistakes I made were very instructional, if humbling.   Ah,
       but just wait until next year.

       FOR SALE:  7 bee hives, two-story plus misc.  equipment.   Contact
       Raymond and Jo Whitwood, Muscatine. phone (319)263-0992.

       FOR SALE:  55-gallon drums $6.00 each; 20 or more $5.00 each.
       Call Harry Hunter in Des Moines at (515)266-1984.

       FOR SALE:  Stainless 8-frame extractor with Dayton electric motor,
       cappings  knife and misc.  supers, frames,  lids & boxes.   Asking
       $200/offer.  If interested call Des Moines at (515)270-8726, leave
       message if no answer.

       FOR  SALE:    Kelley  electric,  vibrating  uncapping  knife  with
       electric motor $175;  Kelley steam vibrating uncapping knife $125;
       Dadant electric stainless mini-melter $350; C.C. Pollen Co.  traps
       used only one season $30 each.   Call Monroe Neihart near Clarinda
       (712)582-3200.

       FOR SALE:  Qualitly Section Comb Honey in Cartons $1.90 each. Call
       Stanley Weiser, 2674 - 303rd Pl. in Adel. Ph: (515)993-3126.

       "Butter  and HONEY shall he eat,  that he may know to  refuse  the
       evil and choose the good."  (Isaiah 7:15)
                               CALENDAR OF EVENTS
       AUGUST
       11-21        Iowa State Fair Apiary Exhibit, 2nd Floor of
                    Agriculture Building,  State Fairgrounds,  Des Moines 
                    Open daily 9:00 a.m.- 9:00 p.m. Come see the best!

       SEPTEMBER - NATIONAL HONEY MONTH
       9-10         Laplanders Honey Conference 6:00 p.m. the 10th and
                    Honey Walnut Classic 10 a.m. the 11th both at the
                    Inn in Allerton, Iowa.

       12           Eastcentral Iowa Beekeepers Meeting 7:00 p.m. in
                    basement of Montgomery Hall, Johnson County
                    Fairgrounds, Iowa City

       15           Scott County Beekeepers Meeting 7:00 p.m. at Riefes
                    Restaurant, Locust St., Davenport.

       17           Central Iowa Beekeepers Meeting at Royal Cafe in
                    Huxley.  Buffet dinner at 5:30 p.m., Business Meeting
                    6:30 p.m. and Program at 7:30 p.m. (We will try again
                    to show the Bee Emergency Video.)

       NOVEMBER     
       11-12        Iowa Honey Producers Annual Meeting in Marshalltown.


       FOR  SALE:   Home Study Course "Rearing Honey Bee  Queens  in  the
       Northern U.S."  (with manual and video tape) by Dr.  Marla  Spivak
       and Gary S. Reuter, the University of Minnestota.  $40.00  Contact
       Dept.  of Entomology,  University of Minnesota,  Hodson Hall,  St.
       Paul, MN 55108-6125 or call Dr. Spivak at (612) 624-4798.

       Dear Beekeeper Friends,
          I  am  writing this short announcement to let you know  of  the
       recent  loss of my father, Russell Stephenson of  Williams,  Iowa. 
       He died suddenly in his home on May 19th at the age of 77.
          As some of you know,  he sold his business,  "Stephenson  Honey
       Farms"  in 1993 and retired.  He loved the beekeeping business and
       being able to work in the outdoors.   He offered great  assistance
       and advise to several beekeepers and those interested in the field
       during  his life.   My father enjoyed talking to many of you  over
       the  years  and  sharing the constant cares and  concerns  of  the
       Midwest beekeeper.  [Editor:  I certainly enjoyed getting to  know
       Mr. Stephenson when inspecting his equipment for the sale.  He had
       an  efficient way to handle frames during the  extracting  process
       and  developed a unique way of removing excess moisture  from  his
       honey after it was extracted and checked his own bees for tracheal
       mites with his microscope.   He certainly applied his  engineering
       skills learned in his silo construction company to the  beekeeping
       business.]  Thanks for being a special part of my father's  life!! 
       He will be greatly missed!
                     -Thomas Russell Stephenson and The Stephenson Family
       OTHER INSECTS OCCUPYING BEE HIVES
             Sometimes   beekeepers  may  become  alarmed  or  at   least
       concerned about insects other than honey bees inside their  hives. 
       At times the beekeeper may see cockroaches, ants, beetles, spiders
       and  wax  worms  (moth larvae) occupying their bee  hives.   As  a
       general rule healthy,  populous colonies are not damaged by  these
       insect guests.
             Many  times wax moths are blamed for the death of  colonies. 
       This  is almost never the case in Iowa.   The wax moth larvae  are
       nature's clean-up crew after a colony dies.   This can actually be
       helpful  if  the colony died from American  foulbrood  disease  by
       reducing  the probability of spreading the disease to  neighboring
       colonies.   The best way to prevent damage to your combs after the
       colony  has  died is to keep an eye on your bees and pick  up  any
       empty hive equipment from the beeyard.   
             The primary problem beekeepers encounter is in storing empty
       beeswax comb, especially brood comb during the warm summer months.
       A few years ago several products were available for fumigating  or
       treating  stored beeswax combs.   These products are  designed  to
       kill insects, therefore fumigated combs should always be aired out
       for a few hours before placing them on the bees.
             Most    recently,    the   product   "Paramoth"    (PDB    -
       Paradichlorobenzene)  is  no longer available for  bee  equipment. 
       I've heard conflicting reports from beekeeping supply houses as to
       the fate of registration of this product for treatment of  beeswax
       combs.   One  story  is  that PDB is  a  carcinogen  and  EPA  has
       withdrawn  registration  for use on beeswax.   Another  beekeeping
       supply  dealer says they will have approval from EPA to  sell  PDB
       later this fall.
             Outside of using chemical products, combs can be placed in a
       deep  freezer  for a few days to kill any adult moths,  larvae  or
       eggs.   Additionally,  the moths do not like light or  fresh  air. 
       Therefore, storing combs in a way that they are exposed to both of
       these  elements  may be of some help.   Light colored  combs  from
       honey supers are pretty safe from the moths.
             Another  system that may work for you is to keep empty  comb
       stored  on  the colonies where the bees will keep  the  moths  out
       during  the  warm  months  (June,  July,  August,   September  and
       October).  Then, bring in empty equipment and store in an unheated
       building  for  the  winter  and  nature  will  give  them  a  cold
       treatment.

       Dear Iowa Honey Promoter:
          Along with getting your honey harvested,  it's time to plan  to
       promote  your  state's beekeeping or honey exhibit at  your  local
       fair  or  festival.   To aid in honey promotions  Media  kits  are
       available  from  the  National Honey Board  by  contacting  Sherry
       Jennings,  Industry  Relations Director at  (303)776-2337.   Media
       kits include: a story on pollination, newsreleases,  summer recipe
       tips and two new recipe leaflets -- "Bringing You Nature's  Bounty
       Is Our Line"  and "Make Magic in Minutes."   Use the media kit  to
       give  to local newspaper editors, television news shows and  radio
       stations the latest buzz on honey.
       BRINGING YOU NATURE'S BOUNTY IS OUR LINE -- Recipes from NHB.

                             Back to Nature Cookies

       1/2   cup shortening             1   cup honey
       2     eggs                       1   teaspoon vanilla
       1-3/4 cups whole wheat flour     1/2 teaspoon baking soda
       1/2   baking powder              1/4 teaspoon salt
       1     teaspoon cinnamon          2   cups quick-cooking oats
       1/2   cup chopped nuts           1/2 cup finely chopped apple
       1     cup raisins

       In a large mixing bowl,  cream shortening and honey until  fluffy. 
       Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition.  Stir in
       vanilla.   In  medium  bowl,  stir together  flour,  soda,  baking
       powder,  salt and cinnamon.  Add dry ingredients to honey mixture,
       beating  until smooth.   Stir in oats,  nuts,  apple and  raisins. 
       Drop  by  teaspoonfuls onto greased cookie sheets about  2  inches
       apart.  Bake at 350 F 10 to 12 minutes or until cookies are golden
       brown. Makes about 5 dozen.

                           Honey Pork Chops & Apples

                    6   pork loin chops (about 3/4-inch thick)
                        Salt, pepper and ground sage
                    2   Granny Smith or other tart apples
                    1   tablespoon butter or margarine
                    1/4 cup HONEY
                    6   Maraschino cherries (optional)

       Brown  chops  slowly in skillet; remove to  shallow  baking  dish.
       Season  chops with salt,  pepper and sage.  Core and slice  apples
       into 1/2-inch rings.  Add butter to skillet and saute apple  rings
       until  crisp-tender.  Place 1 apple ring on each chop.  Cover  and
       bake at 300 F for 30 minutes. Drizzle honey over apples and chops;
       baste  with drippings.  Cover and bake 15 minutes longer or  until
       pork is fully cooked. Place cherry in center of apple rings before
       serving. Makes 6 servings.

                     Honey-Kissed Fruit (Microwave Method)

                     1/4 cup honey      
                     1   teaspoon grated orange peel
                     2   fresh pears, pared, cored and halved
                     1   can (5-1/4 oz.) pineapple chunks, drained
                     1   cup each red and green grapes, halved, seeded

       Blend  honey  and  orange  peel;  set  aside.  Place  pears  in  4
       microwave-safe serving glasses; drizzle with honey mixture.  Cover
       each glass with plastic wrap;  vent. Microwave at HIGH (100%) 3 to
       5 minutes or until pears are tender. Combine pineapple and grapes.
       Divide evenly between servings and sprinkle over pears. Serve warm
       or cold. Makes 4 servings.
                             Honey Cloverleaf Rolls

                    1   package (16 oz.) hot roll mix
                    6   tablespoons honey, divided
                    1/4 cup butter or margarine
                    1   teaspoon grated lemon peel
                    1   cup sliced almonds

       Prepare   dough   according  to  package  directions,   adding   2
       tablespoons honey to liquid. Cover kneaded dough with bowl and let
       stand 5 minutes.  Melt butter and remaining honey;  stir in  lemon
       peel.  Roll dough into 36 balls (about 1 to 1-1/2 inch  diameter).
       Form clusters of three balls,  dip each in honey mixture and  then
       almonds.  Place each cluster in well-greased muffin cup.  Let rise
       30  minutes  or  until doubled in bulk. Bake at 350  F  15  to  20
       minutes  or  until lightly browned. Brush with honey  mixture,  if
       desired. Makes 12 rolls.

           Honey Cranberry Butter

       1   cup butter, softened
       1/4 cup HONEY
       1/4 cup chopped cranberries*
       1/4 cup cranberry sauce
       2   tablespoons ground walnuts
       1   tablespoon milk
       2   teaspoons grated orange
           peel

       Cream   butter  and  honey   in
       medium  bowl. Add  cranberries,
       cranberry sauce, walnuts,  milk
       and  orange  peel.  Whip  until
       light pink in color.  Serve  at
       room   temperature;  store   in
       refrigerator, tightly covered.

       *    Use   fresh   or    frozen
       cranberries,  if desired;  chop
       before thawing.












       New NHB recipe folder; see page 7 for recipes.


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:18 EDT 1994
Article: 656 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 94 10:06:08 EDT
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
Lines: 66
Message-ID: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>
References: <sandrock.775502827@aries>
NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu

I'm surprised that there isn't more concern about the "Empty Hive"
thread that has been going on the past few days.  The scenario was
that a hive died last year and now the owner is wondering what's
going on in the hive this season.  I've been keeping this to myself,
and have been watching others' responses/suggestions and have been
shocked that none has mentioned what poor beekeeping practice it
is to have not addressed the situation until now.  I know that it's
a newbie who has the problem and I realize it's the first exposure
the newbie has with keeping bees and we should be gentle.  So as
gently as I know how I have to ask, "What the hell have you been
doing that was so important that you haven't addressed the problem
until the end of July!?"  Oops, be gentle.
 
Disease is nothing to take lightly.  When a hives dies, a beekeeper
should first close up the hive to make it as inaccessible as possible
to other bees.  This should have been done as soon as it was sure the
hive was dead (was it February?).  Robber bees WILL show up if there
is honey left and if no honey is left then investigator bees WILL
show up just to check things out.  If any disease is present, the
robbers/investigators WILL take it back to their home hive.  So first
and foremost, the hive should have been sealed.  Spreading disease
was not a concern to the owner (as it was the only hive) but there may
be neighbors with bees who could pick up disease from an unattended
hive.  Beekeepers have a responsibility to protect not only their own
apiary but the apiaries of others and feral populations as well.
 
After a dead hive has been sealed it should be determined what
caused the hive's demise and action should be taken accordingly.  If
starvation was the cause, the equipment can be reused and should be
restocked ASAP.  However if disease was the culprit, different measures
are in order (worst case scenario (American Foulbrood) calls for
treatment by fire).  If it can't be determined what the cause was,
it's best to err on the conservative side.  When it doubt, burn it out!
Drastic yes, but it's cheaper to replace an empty hive that to restock
a diseased environment only to have it die out again.
 
Finally, I have to say again, the time to do this was as soon as the
problem was noticed.  There is just no excuse to have not taken care
of this problem in the spring (and EARLY spring at that).  Inexperience
can only be overcome by gaining experience.  All the discussion of the
possibility of a swarm moving in and discussions of the danger of wax
moths would not have taken place had the problem been addressed in a
timely manner.  Not meaning to get on the guy's case (I was a newbie
once myself), but the description of being timid to look in the hive
for fear of getting stung says to me that the guy is pursuing the
wrong hobby.  You're working with bees.  Stings come with the
territory.  Get used to it.
 
And while I'm on my soapbox, does anyone else have a problem with the
moth balls on top of the frames suggestion?  Especially when the very
same posting states that the wax WILL absorb moth ball chemicals!
Can you spell honey contamination?  I can just picture a honey judge:
"Hmmm.  Nice color.  Pleasant order with just the right subtle
undertones of moth balls!"  Glad I am that I've never had the pleasure.
 
Sorry to have flamed away here (torches blazing!).  It isn't my intent
to put the guy down and I don't want to discourage his interests, but
if you're going to keep bees, then keep bees.  If you are going to
have bees, don't.  Beekeeping is an active pursuit.  Beehaving is a
disservice to the bees you have and the bees kept by others in your
area.
 
I will apologize in advance to the posters of the articles if they
take offense to the tone of my response.  I don't mean any disrespect,
I'm just stating rather forcefully what should be good practice in
keeping bees.


From sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:20 EDT 1994
Article: 657 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: 3 Aug 94 20:36:32 GMT
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SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) writes:

>...  So as
>gently as I know how I have to ask, "What the hell have you been
>doing that was so important that you haven't addressed the problem
>until the end of July!?"  Oops, be gentle.

Well, since you ask, I'll give you a few highlights. In March both
sump pumps failed and the lower level of my house flooded. In April
I spent several weeks supervising a severely depressed, suicidal
acquaintance, (it's a *long* story), including having to hang onto
the person by one arm as she hung off a two-story overpass at O'Hare
airport in Chicago. Including flying to Germany to escort the person
to a hospital there since the airline would not agree to allow her to
fly alone. There have been other personal crises, less spectacular,
but no less time-consuming--I'm a single parent of three teenage boys,
so crises come with the territory.

Actually I did have the hive stored in my garage for part of the time.
My mistake was putting in back out in the garden before I was certain
I would have the time to work on it. I should have sealed the hive
in plastic rather than putting it back out. I realize this now. So,
mea culpa!

>After a dead hive has been sealed it should be determined what
>caused the hive's demise and action should be taken accordingly.  If
>starvation was the cause, the equipment can be reused and should be
>restocked ASAP.  However if disease was the culprit, different measures
>are in order (worst case scenario (American Foulbrood) calls for
>treatment by fire).  If it can't be determined what the cause was,
>it's best to err on the conservative side.  When it doubt, burn it out!
>Drastic yes, but it's cheaper to replace an empty hive that to restock
>a diseased environment only to have it die out again.

The neighbor in back, a former bee-keeper and a retired professor of
entymology, opened the hive last October and felt that the colony was
so weak that it would probably not survive the winter, and it turned
out he was right. The bees didn't starve. They may have simply died
of cold. Also, I did have the hive stored in my garage for several
months, and as of early July there was no sign of moths. Nor had there
been any appearance of foul-brood, I did have the fellow in back take
a look at some frames to be certain.

>Finally, I have to say again, the time to do this was as soon as the
>problem was noticed.  There is just no excuse to have not taken care
>of this problem in the spring (and EARLY spring at that).

I think you've made the point rather well, my friend!!

>...  Not meaning to get on the guy's case (I was a newbie
>once myself), but the description of being timid to look in the hive
>for fear of getting stung says to me that the guy is pursuing the
>wrong hobby.  You're working with bees.  Stings come with the
>territory.  Get used to it.

If you'll recall, my concern was not being stung, but being attacked
by a swarm of bees. Something I had read indicated that this might
be a possibility and that it could endanger other people and animals
in the vicinity, so I was checking before plunging ahead. A few stings
I think I can handle, having been stung before. Maybe the author was
exagerating, but how do I know unless I ask?

>Sorry to have flamed away here (torches blazing!).  It isn't my intent
>to put the guy down and I don't want to discourage his interests, but
>if you're going to keep bees, then keep bees.  If you are going to
>have bees, don't.  Beekeeping is an active pursuit.  Beehaving is a
>disservice to the bees you have and the bees kept by others in your
>area.

No problem. I don't feel put down. I respect your conviction.

>I will apologize in advance to the posters of the articles if they
>take offense to the tone of my response.  I don't mean any disrespect,
>I'm just stating rather forcefully what should be good practice in
>keeping bees.

No offense taken here. Thanks for your post.

Mark Sandrock
-- 
Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign	"Fruechte reifen durch die Sonne,
Chemical Sciences Computer Center	 Menschen durch die Liebe."
505 S. Mathews Ave., Urbana, IL 61801			--Julius Langbehn
Email: sandrock@uiuc.edu


From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:21 EDT 1994
Article: 658 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 1994 17:52:44 -0500
Organization: TASC
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In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>, SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu
(Aaron Morris) wrote:

> I'm surprised that there isn't more concern about the "Empty Hive"
> thread that has been going on the past few days.  The scenario was

[lots of good stuff deleted for brevity]

Thank you Aaron!! I agree with your sentiments, and the forceful tone
is appropriate (IMHO).  I authored a response to the original request,
but failed to step back to the basics. It is all too easy to fire off
a quick comment, and miss some of the more important issues that were
not directly addressed.

Thank you for reminding all of us that beekeeping involves significant
responsibilities, in addition to all the pleasures it can bring. Solving
or at least reducing widespread problems like mites & diseases can only
be accomplished if responsible beekeepers significantly outnumber the
negligent ones.

Rick
rshough@tasc.com

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.


From gross@ims.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:21 EDT 1994
Article: 659 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: gross@ims.com (Don Gross)
Subject: Re: Varroa resistant bees
Message-ID: <1994Aug3.211301.15134@ims.com>
Keywords: orchard_bee, pesticide, pollenation
Sender: usenet@ims.com (USENET News Poster)
Reply-To: gross@ims.com
Organization: Integrated Measurement Systems, Inc.
References: <315v87$m5v@nexus.uiowa.edu> <CtnKGH.KJ2@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 1994 21:13:01 GMT
Lines: 50

In article <CtnKGH.KJ2@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>, Adam wrote:
> In article <315v87$m5v@nexus.uiowa.edu>,
> randy nessler <rnessler@emiris.iaf.uiowa.edu> wrote:
> >...some European
> >bees that are resistant to varroa mites.  I think that they were from
> >Czechoslovakia, and were soon to be imported.  Once the breeders had
> >raised enough broods, they were to be offered for sale.  My questions are;
> >has anyone else heard this, and are they commercially available yet.
> 
> USDA has the "Yugo" bee, from Yugoslavia, via Thomas Rinderer at Baton
> Rouge bee lab. This stock is now commercially available, it is fairly
> tolerant to tracheal mites, and shows _some_ tolerance to Varroa mites,
> but these bees still need to be treated.

>  I use some of Miksa's stock, I have Varroa and I'll be treating this
> fall with Apistan, but I'm observing which colonies have the lowest
> _apparent_ levels of the mite. These I'll watch next year and maybe
> incorporate them into my breeding program.
>  Adam 
> -- 
I've been following this topic (tracheal and Varroa mites) for awhile
now, and have a question or two. My interest in honey bees is secondary;
I have fruit trees and a garden that needs to be pollenized. I belong
to an organization called the Home Orchard Society (sort of a local
NAFEX, if you are familiar with them), and a fellow member has really
"gotten into" pollenizers - primarily mason bees, but including bumble
bees, flies, and even honey bees. He says that the "medication" (which
I assume is Apistan) is simply an (non-organic) insecticide, and is
contaminating all the honey on the market. He doesn't plan on consuming
any more honey until alternatives are identified used.

So, what is the "truth" about the mite treatment, and contaminants in
the U.S.'s (other countries'?) honey?

BTW, because of the unreliable nature of honeybee pollenation, both due
to the mite crisis here in the Pacific Northwest and also the fact that
the fruit trees are in bloom in the spring before the honeybees become
active, a great deal of interest has arisen in our organization about
orchard (mason) bees. In fact, its become quite a good fund-raiser to
make and sell starter bee houses to the home and commercial orchardists.
I would be interested in getting a thread going on orchard bees. I'm
posting this to sci.agriculture.beekeeping as well as rec.gardens. If
there is a more apporpriate news group, please let me know.

*************************************************************************
 Don Gross                      Member, Home Orchard Society
 Integrated Measurement Systems PO Box 230192
 Beaverton, Oregon              Tigard, OR  97218 - 0192
				Membership open to all
				Annual dues only $10.00


From david@roentgen.demon.co.uk Mon Aug  8 12:45:22 EDT 1994
Article: 660 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
From: david@roentgen.demon.co.uk (Dr David Lauckner)
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Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Organization: Wansbeck Radiology Department
X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4
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Date: Thu, 4 Aug 1994 07:43:54 +0000
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The garbage bag (in the UK I would call it a binliner!)method
worked for me last winter. I did not use mothballs. 
I use a wad soaked in glaciac acetic acid. This is an approved
bee kit "sterilizer" as I understand things.
David

--
Dr David Lauckner                        Phone: 0670-521212
Wansbeck General Hospital                Fax:   0670-529778
ASHINGTON, Northumberland        e-mail: david@roentgen.demon.co.uk
United Kingdom.


From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Mon Aug  8 12:45:24 EDT 1994
Article: 661 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: July Issue of APIS
Message-ID: <Cu0Fv8.Co4@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Keywords: Apis, magazine, sanford 
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa.
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 1994 12:25:56 GMT
Lines: 255

            Florida Extension Beekeeping Newsletter 
    Apis--Apicultural Information and Issues (ISSN 0889-3764)
                 Volume 12, Number 7, July 1994

                 AHB INVASION RUNS OUT OF STEAM?

     Reports of African honey bee (AHB) colonization of western
Texas continue, but the movement appears to have slowed
significantly.  And in neighboring New Mexico and Arizona,
confirmed finds may be from swarms moving across the Mexican
border, rather than migrating westward.  The biggest question mark
concerns California which has yet to be officially invaded by this
insect, although there have been confirmed finds near the state
line.  

     In east Texas as well, the AHB has not advanced as far as
previous predictions indicated.  The insect has yet to reach
Houston and it's now been over three years since the first colony
was found in the state.  Has the invasion indeed run out of steam,
and if so, why?  These questions as yet have no answers, but
already the press is writing about the phenomenon.
  
     There are some intriguing reasons for the slowdown suggested
by Mr. Laurence Cutts, Florida's Chief Apiary Inspector, and others
examining the situation.  The weather in the region has been
generally unfavorable (colder winters, later springs) for feral
bees.  The bees may be approaching their climatic limits; the
present distribution when compared with that predicted by Dr. Orley
Taylor over a decade ago shows great correspondence.  Texas is a
very large state; perhaps the AHB will take some time to reach
saturation in certain areas before the invasion can continue.  

     In addition, the AHB wave from Mexico has also met a challenge
that it  didn't face in that country, the Varroa mite.  Nor can the
potential ravages of chalkbrood, the foulbroods and tracheal mites
on wild populations be discounted.  There is more than a little bit
of irony in the realization that the beekeeping industry's nemeses
might become allies in stemming the AHB tide.

     Another suggestion is that the imported fire ant, well
entrenched in southern Texas, is responsible for predation on AHB
colonies.  Nests in scrub are quite near the ground and migrating
swarms are small.  There are reports that these ants are also
becoming more effective predators on managed European colonies in
Florida.

     And what of the consequences of hybridization?  Increased rate
of genetic crossing among AHBs, feral European bees and those
managed by Texas beekeepers could be responsible for restraining
the migration.  The situation is quite different than in tropical
areas of Mexico and Central America.  There, bees of European
origin had not formed large feral populations, providing limited
competition to the invaders, and over time, those in managed
colonies were almost completely replaced by AHB.  Hybrids that
developed between European bees and AHB in the wild did not appear
to persist (See February and March 1992 APIS).

     Unlike in more tropical areas, a population of feral European
bees already exists in Texas.  This means greater competition for
the AHB in the wild.  It will also be a continuing source of
genetic material above and beyond managed colonies to produce
hybrids.  And the resultant hybrid population might persist longer
in these temperate regions than was the case further south. 
However, they could still be at some disadvantage.  Hybrids may not
be so migratory, one of the reasons suggested for AHB resistance to
mites and pathogens.   This fact, along with addition of European
genetic material, could make them more vulnerable to a host of
problems than are AHBs.  
  
     In the end, no single cause is probably responsible for
checking the bees' advance.  However, all of the above reasons
taken together could make a formidable barrier keeping AHB
populations at bay.

                   TRACKING HONEY BEE ANCESTRY

     Even a cursory review of the apicultural literature reveals
that over hundreds of years honey bees have been imported from all
over the world.  The results of this activity have been variable. 
Among the successes would be introduction of the Italian bee (Apis
mellifera ligustica) which materially improved commercial bee
stocks, and is in general use today throughout the country.  A
notable failure was the Cyprian bee (Apis mellifera cypria),
considered too defensive by most beekeepers.  It has almost been
eliminated from the U.S. gene pool.  In 1922, legislation to
control importation effectively reduced genetic immigration. 
However, legal and illegal introductions have continued.

      Considering the sheer number of importations, the question
arises concerning the eventual fate of these bees in the U.S.  Dr.
Eric Mussen posed this question in his latest newsletter, From the
UC Apiaries, while reporting on a study by N.M. Schiff and W.S.
Sheppard in the Journal Experientia, Vol. 49, pp. 530-532, 1993. 
The study's authors did not address Dr. Mussen's specific question. 
Their purpose was to look at the genetic variation of feral
populations in the southern U.S. and find out if the AHB invasion
could be adequately monitored using existing European genetic
markers.  They did this by analyzing mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA).  

     There are two primary sources of DNA in multicellular animals. 
The one most heard about, often touted by the press as the best
crime fighting tool since the fingerprint, is from the nucleus of
the cell.  This DNA is the chemical information that determines the
form of the organism and much of its behavior.  It is inherited
from both the mother and the father and can effectively be used to
make unique identifications.      

     But there is another kind of DNA.  It is found in small
energy-producing capsules outside the nucleus of the cell.  These
organelles are called mitochondria (the singular is mitochondrion). 
In multicellular animals, DNA associated with the mitochondria is
only inherited from the mother.  This provides the means to track
maternal ancestry .  All bees in a colony have the same mtDNA,
inherited from one single individual, their queen.  Pioneering
studies on mtDNA by Drs. Glenn Hall at the University of Florida
and Deborah Smith, University of Kansas, provide evidence that
feral swarms of African maternal lines were primarily responsible
for AHB migration in the tropics.  Study of human mtDNA also gives
rise to the provocative idea that all humanity descended from a
single Eve. 

     The Experientia study looked at 422 feral bee colonies sampled
from areas not undergoing AHB invasion.  The bees came from nine
states (Florida was not included).  Collection was restricted to
wild colonies, including those relocated, but not requeened by
beekeepers.  The results are as follows:

State     Mitochondrial Types                      Total
          African          Mel/Ibr     Car/Lig    

AL             1              14        24           39
GA             -               4        28           32
LA             -              10        41           51
MS             2              14        31           47
NC             -               3        27           30
NM             -               7        54           61
OK             -               -         3            3
SC             -              21        59           80
TX             1              19        59           79

Total(%)     4 (0.9)          92( 21.8) 326 (77.3)   422

     Mel/Ibr refers to two European honey bee races (Apis mellifera
mellifera and Apis mellifera iberica).  The former is the German or
dark bee, while the latter is the Iberian bee, native of the
Spanish peninsula.  These are grouped together and considered
"western" races.  The "eastern" races include A. mellifera carnica
(Carniolan bee) and A. mellifera ligustica (Italian bee),
designated above as Car/Lig; both are thought to make up the
majority of the present U.S. commercial honey bee stock.  The
eastern and western groups have been separated on the basis of
mtDNA structure.  The African mtDNA was from the Egyptian honey
bee, Apis mellifera lamarckii, not Apis mellifera scutellata,
considered to be the ancestor of the AHB.      

     When analyzing the results of this study, it is important to
understand that the percentages noted above are only of mtDNA types
found in wild U.S. honey bees.  They do not necessarily translate
into bee types.  For example, even though four colonies were found
with African mtDNA, the authors identified the individual bees as
"European" using morphometrics.  Thus, no bees determined to be
"Africanized" are present in the above samples.  This is
problematic.  Presence of lamarckii mtDNA is a certain indication
of African ancestry.   

     Is it reasonable to correlate percentages of a certain mtDNA
type to a specific population?  One school of thought says no,
because mtDNA really may have no effect on a bee's structure or
behavior which are considered superior measures of identification. 
However, different mtDNAs may result in different capabilities. 
Enzymes coded by mtDNA are responsible for energy production in the
cell and must interact with those coded by nuclear DNA.  These
functions may contribute to the differences in metabolic capacities
of African, European and hybrid honey bees discovered by Drs. Glenn
Hall at the University of Florida and Jon Harrison, Arizona State
University (see APIS June, 1993). In addition, because mtDNA is
inherited as a total package from the mother, its presence means
that it came from an unbroken maternal lineage.  In the case of the
lamarckii mtDNA identified in the Experientia study, the time line
could reach as far back as the 1860s.  

     It is tempting, therefore, to make a correlation of mtDNA
types with bee populations.  Dr. Mussen surrendered to this in his
article, concluding:  "It will be interesting to see if the 22% of
feral bees with 'non-commercial' lineage can survive the
competition of AHBs for their feral territory."  

                    STATUS OF U.S. BEEKEEPING

     F.L. Hoff and L.S. Willett have just released their study
entitled The U.S. Beekeeping Industry.  It is Agricultural Economic
Report Number 680, published by the USDA Economic Research Service,
69pp, May 1994.  This document is required reading for anyone
interested in the changes taking place in the apicultural industry.

     The introduction states in part:  "This report updates
information on honey production, pollination and the relationship
of the U.S. beekeeping industry to agriculture and the environment. 
The study was mandated in the Committee report that accompanied the
Agriculture, Rural Development, and Related Agencies Appropriation
Act of 1987.  The mandate resulted from concern by beekeepers and
members of Congress about problems, issues, and challenges that
emerged during the 1980's with the potential to significantly alter
the beekeeping industry.  These concerns included northward
migration of the Africanized honeybee, infestations of colonies by
tracheal and Varroa mites, the widespread use of highly toxic
pesticides, increasing honey imports, and efforts to discontinue
the honey price support program."

     This report is an extremely valuable lobbying document.  The
authors should be congratulated for providing the industry with
these facts and figures.  The beekeeping community now has plenty
of ammunition to back up its arguments for public support in many
arenas.  However, the time and expense to produce this document
will go for naught, if those in the beekeeping industry do not
actively use the information to its fullest potential.  To obtain
a copy call toll free 800/999-6779 in U.S. and Canada (other areas
703/834-0125) and ask for AER-680.  The cost is $12.00 payable by
Visa or MasterCard.  To order a copy by first-class mail, send a
check for $12.00 ($15.00 for Canada or elsewhere) made payable to
ERS-NASS, 341 Victory Drive, Herndon, VA 22070. 

                         NOSEMA CONTROL

     Mr. Glen Stanley, Retired Iowa Apiary Inspector, provided some
advice in a recent letter to the American Bee Journal.  It was
simple.  If one controls nosema this helps the bees overcome other
obstacles like tracheal mites.  In other words, asks Mr. Stanley,
"...why not begin fighting the battle where it would do the most
good by getting bees cleared of nosema first."  Another basis of
good beekeeping, he says, is to remove all old, black combs (his
emphasis),  the source of bacteria, fungal spores and other
materials the bees might unintentionally collect.  Mr. Stanley's
message must continually be kept in mind by beekeepers interested
in getting the most from their colonies.  Adhere to the
fundamentals of beekeeping and the bees will take care of the rest. 
      

Sincerely,


     
Malcolm T. Sanford 
Bldg 970, Box 110620
University of Florida 
Gainesville, FL 32611-0620 
Phone (904) 392-1801, Ext. 143 
FAX: 904-392-0190 
BITNET Address: MTS@IFASGNV 
INTERNET Address: MTS@GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU 

-- 
============================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   =======


From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:25 EDT 1994
Article: 662 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Varroa resistant bees
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 1994 13:53:07 -0500
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In article <1994Aug3.211301.15134@ims.com>, gross@ims.com wrote:

> I have fruit trees and a garden that needs to be pollenized. I belong
> to an organization called the Home Orchard Society (sort of a local
> NAFEX, if you are familiar with them), and a fellow member has really
> "gotten into" pollenizers - primarily mason bees, but including bumble
> bees, flies, and even honey bees. He says that the "medication" (which
> I assume is Apistan) is simply an (non-organic) insecticide, and is
> contaminating all the honey on the market. He doesn't plan on consuming
> any more honey until alternatives are identified used.
> 
> So, what is the "truth" about the mite treatment, and contaminants in
> the U.S.'s (other countries'?) honey?

Don,
Actually, I believe that fluvalinate (the active ingredient in Apistan)
is pyrethran (spelling?) based - in other words it is an organic based
acaracide (mite killer). Your friend is accurate in stating that the
"medication" (assuming he is talking about Apistan) is "simply an
insecticide", however when this product is used properly, i.e., following
the directions on the label, contamination of honey is _NOT_ a problem.
Apistan sometimes is refered to as a "medication" because it is often
discussed in the same breath as treatments for Foulbrood and Nosema,
treatments which really are properly characterised as "medication".
Calling Apistan a "medication" is, in my opinion, a bit misleading,
but, in careless moments, I have been known to mis-speak similarly.

Please read the following comment carefully - I don't want to be misunderstood -
Honey contamination is (should be) a widespread _concern_ among beekeepers and
honey packers, but IT IS NOT A WIDESPREAD _PROBLEM_. The differentiation that
I am making is that we are dealing with a food product, and constant vigilance
is required at all steps in the process to assure the purity of the final
product. I believe that the beekeeping & honey packing industries are successful
accomplishing this. This issue is a fact of life in _ALL_ areas of the food
service industry, and is not unique to bees, honey, and beekeeping. The vast
majority of beekeepers are extremely careful with all the treatments that they
apply to their hives. I, for one, do not apply _ANY_ treatment,
medication, acaracide, etc. to my hives while the supers are on. In
other words, when the bees are collecting any nectar that ends up in honey
destined for human consumption, _NO_ external products are applied to my
colonies. This is a widespread practice throughout the beekeeping community.

Also, the large honey packers have extensive testing programs, in which honey
samples are constantly being tested for residues of undersired substances.
I have every confidence that the honey offered for sale in the USA is quite
safe, and I do not believe that your friend's fears are founded in fact.

I do not have any specific information about the quality of honey being
imported to the USA, but I would be willing to bet that the vast majority
of it is of top quality. There have been some stories which have
tarnished the reputation of imported honey. I cannot vouch for the accuracy
of those stories, but even if they were true, they were only isolated
cases.

I hope that the above information adequately addresses your concerns.

Sincerely,
Rick Hough, a beekeeper from NE of Boston.

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.


From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Mon Aug  8 12:45:26 EDT 1994
Article: 663 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!uunet!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf
From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: Varroa resistant bees
Message-ID: <Cu0yD1.2z7@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Keywords: orchard_bee, pesticide, pollination, pollen bee, mite
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa.
References: <315v87$m5v@nexus.uiowa.edu> <CtnKGH.KJ2@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> <1994Aug3.211301.15134@ims.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Aug 1994 19:05:24 GMT
Lines: 46

In article <1994Aug3.211301.15134@ims.com>, Don Gross <gross@ims.com> wrote:
(and others wrote too...)
>I've been following this topic (tracheal and Varroa mites) for awhile
>now, and have a question or two. 
 ...>I assume is Apistan) is simply an (non-organic) insecticide, and is
>contaminating all the honey on the market. He doesn't plan on consuming
>any more honey until alternatives are identified used.
>
>So, what is the "truth" about the mite treatment, and contaminants in
>the U.S.'s (other countries'?) honey?

 Good questions.
As with any labeled agricultural chemical, if the label is followed then
there shouldn't be any contamination.
 This does not mean that everyone follows the label.
As for honey from other countries, where there is no EPA, your guess is as
good as mine. Perhaps some residue testing is done? I don't know.
 I'd get honey from someone I trusted. I'd ask them how specifically, they
treated their bees. If they were unsure, or were unable to tell you, maybe
their honey would be suspect? You may get the label from any package of
Apistan, ask a beekeeper, or your State Apiarist.
 By reading the label, you will know the proper procedure. Then you may
compare this to what the honey producer says.
When in doubt,  ask.
>
>BTW, because of the unreliable nature of honeybee pollenation, both due
>to the mite crisis here in the Pacific Northwest and also the fact that
>the fruit trees are in bloom in the spring before the honeybees become
>active, a great deal of interest has arisen in our organization about
>orchard (mason) bees. In fact, its become quite a good fund-raiser to
>make and sell starter bee houses to the home and commercial orchardists.
>I would be interested in getting a thread going on orchard bees. I'm
>posting this to sci.agriculture.beekeeping as well as rec.gardens. If
>there is a more apporpriate news group, please let me know.

 I'd check out the bumble bee list, it's in the FAQ. Also, USDA is doing
some "pollen bee" research. This is described in Apis magazine.
Apis is archived on the net.
Read the FAQ.
good luck!
Adam

-- 
============================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   =======


From Paul.Ferroni@ab.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:27 EDT 1994
Article: 664 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: cpferron@icd.ab.com (C. Paul Ferroni)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: 4 Aug 1994 21:53:35 GMT
Organization: Allen Bradley
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NNTP-Posting-Host: dabney.cle.ab.com

In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>, SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) writes:
> I'm surprised that there isn't more concern about the "Empty Hive"
> thread that has been going on the past few days.  

[...munch...]

> And while I'm on my soapbox, does anyone else have a problem with the
> moth balls on top of the frames suggestion?  Especially when the very
> same posting states that the wax WILL absorb moth ball chemicals!
> Can you spell honey contamination?  I can just picture a honey judge:
> "Hmmm.  Nice color.  Pleasant order with just the right subtle
> undertones of moth balls!"  Glad I am that I've never had the pleasure.
>  

  I am the poster of the mothballs suggestion...  My (longwinded) comments 
follow.

> I will apologize in advance to the posters of the articles if they
> take offense to the tone of my response.  I don't mean any disrespect,
> I'm just stating rather forcefully what should be good practice in
> keeping bees.

  Your comments are appreciated.  I agree that we should all be aware
of good and proper practice.  I wasn't giving a flippant or "home-brew"
suggestion with mothballs.  I've been keeping bees for about 15 years,
starting in college, after taking an apiculture class at Ohio State
University, taught by Prof Rothenbeuler (sp?), one of the contributors
to _The_Hive_and_the_Honey_Bee_.  I honestly don't recall if he ever
actually suggested this in class (or in one of the hands-on labs), but
one of the two books we used in class specifically recommended this
practice.  If Dr. Rothenbeuler had disagreed in class, I would have
marked it down in the book (along with several other things he didn't
agree with).  

  Anyways, here are relevant quotes and notes from
_The_Hive_and_the_Honey_Bee_ and _Starting_Right_with_Bees_, the two
books we used in class, and that I refer to when I have questions.
Complete reference information is included, in case later versions
(which I've never seen) are different.


>From _The_Hive_and_the_Honey_Bee_, Revised Edition (1976), from 
Dadant & Sons, Inc.

Chapter XXI, "Diseases and Enemies of the Honey Bee", pg 651-652,
says that to avoid wax moth problems, you should (My summary outline):

1) Maintain strong colonies which will not allow the moths to develop.
2) Keep empty combs in cold storage rooms.
3) Fumigate
   a) Ethylene dibromide (best)
   b) Ethylene oxide (also for foulbrood spores)
4) Use Bacillus thuringiensis

NOTE: No mention of Paradichlorobenzene (moth balls) in this section.


Also, in Chapter XIV, "The Production of Comb and Bulk Comb Honey", in a 
section called "Care of Comb Honey" (pg 439) with reference to
handling section comb or bulk comb honey:

    "[section comb or bulk comb honey] cannot be handled too carefully to
    prevent damage.  It is the appearance of comb honey that determines
    much of it's sale value.  After the supers are removed and brought to
    the honey house, they should be fumigated againt damage by wax moth.
    The supers may be stacked about 15 high, leaving no cracks for fumigant
    to escape.  [...] One well-known fumigant, paradichlorobenzene (PDB),
    should never be used as the odor will permeate the cappings and ruin
    the flavor of the honey."

Note that this is relative to comb with honey in it.  Of course you 
would NEVER allow a volatile substance like PDB near your honey!  I
never implied that.  However, the stuff DOES dissapate with lots of
fresh air.

Another good reference book on beekeeping (much shorter, and more
"practical" then the former): _Starting_Right_with_Bees_, 18th edition
(1976), from the A.I.Root company, also discusses the wax moth.  Chapter
20, "Diseases and Pests of Honeybees", page 93:

       "Stored combs are very susceptible to wax moth injury, especially
    combs that have been used in brood rearing.  Empty combs, wet or dry,
    can be stored successfully indoors or out in supers and hive bodies.
    The supers and hive bodies of combs should be stacked six full depth
    supers high or less on a smooth pallet or metal cover.  The joints
    between the supers if not tight should be taped all the way around with
    masking tape to make them airtight.  A cupful of moth crystals,
    chemically known as Paradichlorobenzene, should be placed on a piece of
    cardboard and set on top of frames or combs in the top super.  An empty
    shallow super should then be set on the top super, around the crystals
    and the stack covered with a tight cover and sealed with masking tape.
    The crystals emit a gas that is heavier than air and this gas will seep
    down through the combs killing moths and worms, and protect the stack
    from future attacks.  Crystals should be added to each stack of combs
    as they evaporate.
       Before putting fumigated combs back on the hives the stack should
    be broken apart and the combs aired for 72 hours.
       Ethylene dibromide is effective againt all stages of the wax moth
    but cannot be used to fumigate honey and combs where the intended
    purpose of the honey is for human food."


This is the reference I'm referring to at the beginning.  I've done this
(when necessary) for years, and never noticed any odor/taste in my honey.
I have never entered it in any fair, though.

It's also interesting to note that _The_Hive_and_the_Honey_Bee_ and
_Starting_Right_with_Bees_ seriously disagree about Ethylene dibromide.
One saying it's the best fumigant; the other, don't use where honey will
be used for food.  Perhaps, this is meant for comb honey again (?).

The bottom line is that its obviously best to keep stong hives, and store
your empty supers in sealed bags, in cold areas (freezing) where possible.

Well, 'nuff for now.  I hope this adds a little substance to the discussion.
Again, no offense taken.  Thanks for the opportunity to do a little
digging into one of my favorite hobbies.

-cpf
paul.ferroni@ab.com


From mthunzeker@aol.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:28 EDT 1994
Article: 665 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mthunzeker@aol.com (MTHunzeker)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Insecticide in bee venom?
Date: 4 Aug 1994 23:49:05 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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One of the members of our local beekeepers association was checking his
colonies after finding some spray kill and got stung.  (They sure don't
like to get sprayed!)  His reaction was quite a bit more severe than
usual with a very large red area and swelling.  He was worried he had
developed a serious allergic reaction, but has been stung numerous 
times since then and only had a standard (mild) response.

So we are wondering if it is possible for a bee to pass on an
insecticide in her venom?  Has any research been performed in this
area?

Mike Hunzeker
MTHunzeker@aol.com
Boulder County Colorado Beekeeper



From mthunzeker@aol.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:29 EDT 1994
Article: 666 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mthunzeker@aol.com (MTHunzeker)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide
Date: 4 Aug 1994 23:51:05 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
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(This seems to be my night for insecticide questions.)

A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name
right) for treating corn just after it has tassled.  According to one 
of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, 
PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but 
the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" 
(probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots).

Is this actually a legal use of PENCAP?  Does anyone have any 
experience with this?  Are there studies we can use to demonstrate the 
danger of PENCAP?  Has anyone been successful in forcing limits on the 
use of PENCAP?

Any available information would be greatly appreciated.

Mike Hunzeker
MTHunzeker@aol.com
Boulder County Colorado Beekeeper



From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Mon Aug  8 12:45:30 EDT 1994
Article: 667 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf
From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide
Message-ID: <Cu2AAB.AA4@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa.
References: <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com>
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 1994 12:20:35 GMT
Lines: 24

In article <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com>,
MTHunzeker <mthunzeker@aol.com> wrote:
>A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name
>right) for treating corn just after it has tassled.  According to one 
>of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, 
>PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but 
>the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" 
>(probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots).
 Mike, check with your state apiarist, about the law. Here in VA, if there
are known bees present, an applicator must notify the beekeeeper well ahead
of time before application, for it is illegal to spray during bee flight
as per the label.  PENCAP-M resembles pollen,
and since bees are working corn, gathering pollen, PENCAP-M,
applied at this time , would be deadly to colonies foraging.
The applicator needs to know that there are bees present. Involve your
Dept. of Agriculture in this issue, bee inspection or the State apiarist's
office, but get somebody on the situation.
 Label laws are very hard to enforce in bee kills.
Adam
(VA Bee inspector)
-- 
============================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   =======


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:31 EDT 1994
Article: 668 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Insecticide in bee venom?
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 94 08:43:43 EDT
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
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NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu

In article <31scrh$n7j@search01.news.aol.com>
mthunzeker@aol.com (MTHunzeker) writes:
 
>So we are wondering if it is possible for a bee to pass on an
>insecticide in her venom?  Has any research been performed in this
>area?
 
Stating up front that this is mere speculation on my part, I would
imagine that insecticide would do in/off/kill a bee before there would
be time for any insecticidal residues to be absorbed/transferred to
bee venom.  Furthermore, I'd speculate that a poisoned bee would not be
up to the task of defending a hive or stinging a beekeeper: she'd be
too busy kicking the bucket!


From rsrodger@wam.umd.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:32 EDT 1994
Article: 669 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu (R S Rodgers)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 12:14:54 -0500
Organization: University of Maryland College Park
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Originator: rsrodger@rac6.wam.umd.edu

In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>,
SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) wrote:
> (worst case scenario (American Foulbrood) calls for
> treatment by fire).

Pardon a question from an interested reader (no knowledge whatsoever
of beekeeping), but what are "Robber Bees" (wasps?) and what is
American Foulbrood?

I ask because I'm curious as to what kinds of diseases strike bees.
In my pesticide class, we covered the use of biological agents instead
of chemical pesticides (fungi, etc.), but nothing about diseases that
strike beneficial insects.

--
Previous .sig deleted because some people couldn't parse "from email
_received_ re: a post on comp.sys.powerpc."



From sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:33 EDT 1994
Article: 670 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: The hive ain't empty...
Date: 5 Aug 94 20:05:12 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
Lines: 38
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NNTP-Posting-Host: aries.scs.uiuc.edu

Since I stirred things up a bit with my questions about empty hives
and robber bees, I thought it might be good to let people know what
I've found since then.

Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling
about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as
opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb
on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so
thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead
removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the
top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared
to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if
this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned
me somewhat.

The bees seemed quite calm and gentle. A dozen or two were floating
around the hive, a few seemed to check me out, but they mostly seemed to
ignore me--a rather gratifying attitude to my way of thinking. :-)

I could easily see dozens of bees crawling around on the frames, and
one thing that puzzled me a bit was they mostly seemed to ignore the
smoke I would puff at them occasionally. Still, it felt reassuring to
have the smoker handy.

I'm going out of town this weekend, but next week I intend to look at
a few more frames and try to spot the queen and/or active brood cells.

Anyway, my newbie impression is that a colony has indeed moved in,
but perhaps someone would care to interpret what I've seen so far.

Thanks again to everyone for the helpful comments.

Mark Sandrock
-- 
Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign	"Fruechte reifen durch die Sonne,
Chemical Sciences Computer Center	 Menschen durch die Liebe."
505 S. Mathews Ave., Urbana, IL 61801			--Julius Langbehn
Email: sandrock@uiuc.edu


From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:35 EDT 1994
Article: 671 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 17:56:06 -0500
Organization: TASC
Lines: 55
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <rshough-0508941756060001@rshough.read.tasc.com>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: rshough.read.tasc.com

In article <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com>, Paul.Ferroni@ab.com wrote:

> In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>,
SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) writes:
> > I'm surprised that there isn't more concern about the "Empty Hive"
> > thread that has been going on the past few days.  
> 
> [...munch...]
> 
> > And while I'm on my soapbox, does anyone else have a problem with the
> > moth balls on top of the frames suggestion?  Especially when the very
> > same posting states that the wax WILL absorb moth ball chemicals!
> > Can you spell honey contamination?  I can just picture a honey judge:
> > "Hmmm.  Nice color.  Pleasant order with just the right subtle
> > undertones of moth balls!"  Glad I am that I've never had the pleasure.
> >  
> 
>   I am the poster of the mothballs suggestion...  My (longwinded) comments 
> follow.
 [...munch...]
> NOTE: No mention of Paradichlorobenzene (moth balls) in this section.

Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!!
There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her sweaters
(I forget the chemical name), and then there is Paradichlorobenzene (PDB)
that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth.

I'm under the impression that use of PDB on stored comb is widespread, and
not detrimental to the comb, although there is a need to air out the combs
for several days prior to putting them on the hives.

While my mom's moth balls would probably kill the wax moth, I'm pretty
sure that there is a problem with that chemical staying in the wax. Besides,
my mom's moth balls aren't labeled (read legal) for use on combs (I think
PDB is labeled for use on stored comb... isn't it??)

Any comment, Aaron??

> The bottom line is that its obviously best to keep stong hives, and store
> your empty supers in sealed bags, in cold areas (freezing) where possible.

Amen to that!!

Have a good weekend, all!

Rick Hough

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.


From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:36 EDT 1994
Article: 672 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 18:16:14 -0500
Organization: TASC
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <rshough-0508941816140001@rshough.read.tasc.com>
References: <sandrock.775502827@aries> <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rshough.read.tasc.com

In article <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu>, rsrodger@wam.umd.edu wrote:

> In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>,
> SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) wrote:
> > (worst case scenario (American Foulbrood) calls for
> > treatment by fire).
> 
> Pardon a question from an interested reader (no knowledge whatsoever
> of beekeeping), but what are "Robber Bees" (wasps?) and what is
> American Foulbrood?

Robber Bees = honey bees that come from a different hive to steal honey
from a weak or uninhabited hive.

American Foulbrood (AFB) is a disease of honeybee brood (young bees)
- it strikes the pupal stage, and is fatal to the individual bees
that it infects. If enough individuals get it, it can kill an entire hive.
It is spread by spores, which can contaminate the honey (thus the
transference of AFB by robber bees), as well as the combs. AFB
spores are not dangerous to humans - our digestive system takes care
of that, but the poor bees don't fare so well. The darn spores are
very tough to kill, and thus the fire treatment is the method of choice
for dealing with serious infections.

Hope this answers your questions.

Rick

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.


From chowe@cthoneybee.win.net Mon Aug  8 12:45:37 EDT 1994
Article: 673 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!swiss.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!witch!cthoneybee!chowe
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Message-ID: <138@cthoneybee.win.net>
References: <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: chowe@cthoneybee.win.net (Charles Howe)
From: chowe@cthoneybee.win.net (Charles Howe)
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 1994 06:04:57 GMT
Subject: Re: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide
Lines: 68

 
In article <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com>, MTHunzeker (mthunzeker@aol.com) writes:
>(This seems to be my night for insecticide questions.)
>
>A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name
>right) for treating corn just after it has tassled.  According to one 
>of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, 
>PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but 
>the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" 
>(probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots).
>
>Is this actually a legal use of PENCAP?  Does anyone have any 
>experience with this?  Are there studies we can use to demonstrate the 
>danger of PENCAP?  Has anyone been successful in forcing limits on the 
>use of PENCAP?
>
>Any available information would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Mike Hunzeker
>MTHunzeker@aol.com
>Boulder County Colorado Beekeeper
>
>
Oh yes,

Pencap-M is micro-encapsilated methylparathion as I recall. Until
Connecticut's regulation was modified to stop the use of this
material on tasseling corn we were loosing many colonies to
methylparathion poisoning every year in CT. This stuff is
particularly deadly to bees since they apparantly gather the stuff
along with the pollen (they seem to *not* be able to discriminate
between pollen and the capsules of insecticide). Once the stuff is
brought back to the colony it gets incorporated into the combs
(wax probably) and is left there when the colony expires. When new
bees are installed into the colony they may also die from the
remaining material in the combs. 

For our bees corn pollen ranks up there with dandylion pollen as
favorites among the top five. When corn tassels my bees pollen
production jumps from about 1/3 cup per day to 2 cups of corn pollen.

To get a regulation limiting the use of Pencap-M in CT. we started
by sending insecticide killed bees to the State Entomologist for
analysis. This showed that, as I recall, about 1/2 of the bees were
killed by the active ingredient in Pencap-M. If it wasn't 1/2 it
was the largest single insecticide killer of bees. At that point, we
(the CT. Beekeepers Assn.) hired a lawyer for advice and the process
of getting a regulation in CT. stopping the use of Pencap-M on
tasseling corn left the Association with a substantial debt. 

We went through this process over 10 years ago. I don't know if it
ended up in a change in the label for other states, but
Connecticut's more limiting use restrictions for Pencap-M still
stands. It is noteworthy, that after the regulation went into
affect the number of insecticide poisonings sharply declined.

If more detailed information is required I will try to come up with
names and addresses of people who worked closely with the problem
at that time.

   -----------------------------------------------------------------------
  | Chuck Howe - Editor                     | Phone or FAX: (203)491-2338 |
  | Connecticut Honey Bee                   | 86, 5 1/2 Mile Road         |
  | INTERNET - CHOWE@CTHONEYBEE.WIN.NET     | Goshen, CT. 06756           |
  | COMPUSERVE - 72726.1437@COMPUSERVE.COM  | USA                         |
   -----------------------------------------------------------------------
   
 



From rsrodger@wam.umd.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:39 EDT 1994
Article: 674 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu (R S Rodgers)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 1994 10:22:17 -0500
Organization: University of Maryland College Park
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <PovGkO9RtwzT069yn@wam.umd.edu>
References: <sandrock.775502827@aries> <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu> <rshough-0508941816140001@rshough.read.tasc.com>
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In article <rshough-0508941816140001@rshough.read.tasc.com>,
rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote:
> Hope this answers your questions.

Yes, thanks.

--
Previous .sig deleted because some people couldn't parse "from email
_received_ re: a post on comp.sys.powerpc."



From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Mon Aug  8 12:45:40 EDT 1994
Article: 675 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 00:45:27 GMT
Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University
Lines: 16
Message-ID: <roadent.501.2E442EA7@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au>
References: <sandrock.775502827@aries> <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-03.cc.monash.edu.au

In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) writes:
>From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
>Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
>Date: Wed, 03 Aug 94 10:06:08 EDT

>I'm surprised that there isn't more concern about the "Empty Hive"
>thread that has been going on the past few days.  The scenario was

In quick defence of myself, I did express some such concerns (I always do....
I am on a CRUSADE against diseases...my fathers entire apiary was wiped out 
by AFB) I did actaully reply along that vein, but from my other account, and 
I don't seem to be able to get the news posting facility on that acount to 
work...


Adrian (trying to help myself this time....)


From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Mon Aug  8 12:45:41 EDT 1994
Article: 676 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty...
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 00:59:21 GMT
Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <roadent.503.2E4431E9@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au>
References: <sandrock.776117112@aries>
NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-03.cc.monash.edu.au

In article <sandrock.776117112@aries> sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) writes:
>From: sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock)

>Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling
>about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as

That sounds reasonably typical of a colony (to me at least)


>opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb
>on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so
>thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead
>removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the

The way I usually open up a hive is to remove one of the edge frames, in 
your case, the shady side one as it would have less bees and wax on it, 
then move the others across so that you have room to manipulate them.


>top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared
>to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if

Find some literature on AFB, and compare any pictures in it with what you 
see...also chalk brrod, EFB, and other brood diseases.  If you are still in 
doubt, cut a piece of the affected comb and send it to a bee inspector  type 
place...they will be able to give an accurate diagnosis (free in 
australia...)


apart from all that, good luck, and enjoy.
Adrian.


From at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Mon Aug  8 12:45:42 EDT 1994
Article: 677 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (R John Northcote)
Subject: Re: What do I do about skunks?
Message-ID: <Cu54nt.ID1@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (Usenet News Admin)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 01:11:53 GMT
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Skunks will scratch at the entrance and eat the bees as they come
out to investigate. I have some bottom boards with 3/8 inch
scratches in them from the skunks. I have found a dead skunk in
one of my yards but otherwise know of two methods which  work.
The first is to have a landlord (eg farmer) who shoots them 
for me with asking - aim for the backbone/neck sho he doesn't
'fire'. THe other method is to inject a raw egg with cynaide
or arsenic and bury the egg in front of the hive (one inch or
so). You'll find the skunk nearby. Buying cyanide/arseic
is a sometimes a problem though - depends on the state/province
you live in.
-- 
R John Northcote
c/o National Capital Freenet


From at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Mon Aug  8 12:45:43 EDT 1994
Article: 678 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (R John Northcote)
Subject: Re: 1993 Honey Prices
Message-ID: <Cu54y7.ILr@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (Usenet News Admin)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 01:18:06 GMT
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Prices in US are usually by the pound (remember that quaint 
Measure?). Here in Canada we usually quote honey in pounds as
well (except for the government which uses Kilos). In 93
Canadian wholesale prices were in the 60-65 cents/pound 
range in 45 gal (CDN) barrels. At the time the exchange
rate was about 1 CDN$ = .79 US$ (currently 72 cnets).
-- 
R John Northcote
c/o National Capital Freenet


From sph@usgp4.ATT.COM Mon Aug  8 12:45:44 EDT 1994
Article: 679 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill)
Subject: old honey
Message-ID: <SPH.94Aug7120226@usgp4.ATT.COM>
Sender: news@nntpa.cb.att.com (Netnews Administration)
Nntp-Posting-Host: usgp4.ih.att.com
Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 17:02:26 GMT
Lines: 19


I have one hive of bees down in central Il, and I have 4 gallons of 
honey left that is 3 - 5 years old.  It used to taste pretty good, but 
it has gotten dark, is crystalized, and does not taste that great 
anymore.  It was not stored in the best of conditions.

If I feed this to my bees will it make this year's crop dark and 
taste old?  Or will the bees "freshen it up" somewhat?

One more question:  I have had this colony for 7 years now, and it was 
re-queened 2 years before I bought it.  Should I consider buying a new 
queen next year, or should I just let them go as long as they seem 
strong ( and they looked great yesterday ).


Thanks in advance

Stephen P. Hill
sph@uscbu.ih.att.com


From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Mon Aug  8 12:45:46 EDT 1994
Article: 680 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: old honey
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 1994 07:22:30 GMT
Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University
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In article <SPH.94Aug7120226@usgp4.ATT.COM> sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill) writes:
>From: sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill)

>honey left that is 3 - 5 years old.  It used to taste pretty good, but 

>If I feed this to my bees will it make this year's crop dark and 
>taste old?  Or will the bees "freshen it up" somewhat?


Usually bees wont store honey that is given to them in a honey condition, 
they will just eat it, and use it for brood food, so it shouldn't affect the 
honey quality.  
BUT are you sure (if it wasn't stored in good conditions) that it is disease 
free???


>One more question:  I have had this colony for 7 years now, and it was 
>re-queened 2 years before I bought it.  Should I consider buying a new 
>queen next year, or should I just let them go as long as they seem 
>strong ( and they looked great yesterday ).

Well...the naverage life span of a queen is about two years, so you should 
have had a few queens since then, although you may not have noticed.  Some 
beekeepers requeen every two to four years, but I only do so if I have an 
unproducitve hive, or one that is paricularly unpleasant to work with.   I 
also like to requeen if I am splitting a hive, because there is a theory 
that leaving a "swarm induced" queen will promote the swarm impulse gene...
if there is such a thing.


Adrian (was I helpful this timt?? hu?  huh?  was I??)


From roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com Mon Aug  8 12:45:48 EDT 1994
Article: 681 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Nntp-Posting-Host: 136.141.220.39
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 1994 07:26:06 -0400
From: roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com (John E. Taylor III)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Distribution: world
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Message-ID: <roh033.mah48d-080894072656@136.141.220.39>
References: <sandrock.775502827@aries> <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com> <rshough-0508941756060001
Organization: Rohm and Haas Company
Lines: 16

In article <rshough-0508941756060001@rshough.read.tasc.com>,
rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote:

> In article <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com>, Paul.Ferroni@ab.com wrote:
>
> Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!!
> There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her sweaters
> (I forget the chemical name), and then there is Paradichlorobenzene (PDB)
> that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth.

The "other" mothballs (the ones you should NOT use) are naphthalene.  It's
a hydrocarbon (polycyclic hydrocarbon, if you're into details) that would
be quite soluble in wax and would thus diffuse readily into the comb.

--
John Taylor    (W3ZID)     |  "The opinions expressed are those of the
roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com |   writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company."


From altabios@bham.ac.uk Mon Aug  8 12:45:50 EDT 1994
Article: 682 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty...
Date: 8 Aug 1994 12:10:14 GMT
Organization: The University of Birmingham, UK
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References: <sandrock.776117112@aries>
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X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.80

In article <sandrock.776117112@aries>, sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) says:
>
>Since I stirred things up a bit with my questions about empty hives
>and robber bees, I thought it might be good to let people know what
>I've found since then.
>
>Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling
>about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as
>opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb
>on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so
>thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead
>removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the
>top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared
>to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if
>this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned
>me somewhat.
>
>The bees seemed quite calm and gentle. A dozen or two were floating
>around the hive, a few seemed to check me out, but they mostly seemed to
>ignore me--a rather gratifying attitude to my way of thinking. :-)
>
>I could easily see dozens of bees crawling around on the frames, and
>one thing that puzzled me a bit was they mostly seemed to ignore the
>smoke I would puff at them occasionally. Still, it felt reassuring to
>have the smoker handy.
>
>I'm going out of town this weekend, but next week I intend to look at
>a few more frames and try to spot the queen and/or active brood cells.
>
>Anyway, my newbie impression is that a colony has indeed moved in,
>but perhaps someone would care to interpret what I've seen so far.
>
>Thanks again to everyone for the helpful comments.
>
>Mark Sandrock
>-- 
>Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign   "Fruechte reifen durch die Sonne,
>Chemical Sciences Computer Center        Menschen durch die Liebe."
>505 S. Mathews Ave., Urbana, IL 61801                   --Julius Langbehn
>Email: sandrock@uiuc.edu



Seeing brood cells with the tops broken is a disturbing sign. The only time
this should happen is when the new bee is coming out. The cap is then quickly
removed and the cell cleaned up for the next occupant. It may be that these
contain dead bees and they have been opened by the new workers. 
It's hard to quantify numbers of bees by Email but you should be seeing
frames covered with bees, in their hundreds. Certainly they may not move
for smoke, the main effect of smoke is to make them feed and get so full
they can't sting you.
I would suggest looking for eggs and brood. If they are there, you have a working
queen.


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:50 EDT 1994
Article: 683 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 10:52:16 EDT
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
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References: <sandrock.775502827@aries> <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <roadent.501.2E442EA7@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au>
NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu

Some final comments on my "Empty Hive" missal.
 
First, I'm glad that readers saw through the flames and took the face
value of my post.  Bees will do what bees will do, beekeeper or not.
There are no value judgments involved.  Bees will visit an empty
hive, irregardless of the reasons why the hive is empty.  Valid
reasons or bad excuses don't matter to the bees who see an empty hive
as an empty hive.
 
Concerning the moth ball thread, I guess it breaks down into a couple
of things: commercial vs hobby beekeeping and greens vs browns
(organic vs chemicals).  I am a hobby beekeeper with twenty years
experience.  My beekeeping concerns are small potatoes.  I don't have
to store large numbers of honey supers and am able to spend more
time/labor tending my equipment.  My goal in keeping bees is to be
outside enjoying the buzz.  The hobby is its own reward, the honey
harvest is a bonus.  I also lean towards the green side.  I garden
organically whenever possible, although I've been known to resort to
herbicides (flower gardens only, never vegetable/consumable gardens)
when the weeding task is beyond my ability to handle it organically.
I do however, avoid nonorganic pesticides at all costs.  Better to
lose to the buggers than poison them with chemicals in my book.
 
This explains my distaste for fumigants, sanctioned or not.  I too
got out my copy of "The_Hive_and_the_Honeybee" and read up on
fumigants.  Finding a reference that says that it's ok to use PDB
and/or moth crystals doesn't make it ok for ME to use it/them.
Knowing that the U.S. government says that after three days of airing
out the supers they will be "OK" doesn't necessarily give me comfort,
although I ALWAYS believe whatever the governments says ;-) .
 
As a small potatoes beekeeper, I am able to wrap ALL of my honey
supers in plastic garbage bags and with diligence, I can avoid
problems with wax moths.  I have no need to resort to fumigants when
mechanics will serve my needs.  I would probably sing a different tune
were my operation multiplied a hundred fold, but I am more comfortable
knowing that my honey has not been exposed to fumigants, whether used
properly or not.  When a query is posted about whether honey is
exposed to chemicals, the answer can't be "No, it was produced in
honey supers that were exposed to chemicals in a sanctioned manner",
the answer is "Yes, the honey has been exposed to chemicals".  It's up
to the consumer to decide to what degree they are comfortable with the
USDA sanctioned exposure.
 
Laying all my cards on the table, I'll admit to using Apistan.  I've
lost too many hives to mites, and there is no alternative at the
present time, so USDA sanctions away, I use the strips and follow the
"moving target" directions.  I'm not reassured by following the
directions and I know that at least on a molecular level, my honey
contains a contaminate that it did not before I started using the
strips.  I'm not comfortable with whatever level of contaminates there
may or may not be, but given the alternatives I'll use the strips and
live with the discomfort.
 
This is not meant to start off an organic vs chemicals flame war,
that's already covered on rec.gardens.  I'll continue to avoid
fumigants, I'll continue to use Apistan, I'll continue to monitor
progress on genetic resistance, and I'll continue to be comforted in
knowing that the honey produced by my bees has a lower level of
exposure to sanctioned chemicals than most.
 
Cheers!
Aaron Morris
 
P.S. On a different note, while browsing "The_Hive_and_the_Honeybee" I
stumbled across a reference to a US president in the '70s who was a
real believer in the positive benefits of bee pollen, but the
reference didn't say which US president (Nixon, Ford, Carter, Regan).
I'll bet it was Carter, but does anyone know for sure?


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:52 EDT 1994
Article: 684 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: "Mothballs" as a fumigant?
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 11:12:33 EDT
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>In article <rshough-0508941756060001@rshough.read.tasc.com>,
>rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote:
>
>> ...
>> Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!!
>> There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her
>> sweaters (I forget the chemical name), and then there is
>> Paradichlorobenzene (PDB) that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth.
>
>The "other" mothballs (the ones you should NOT use) are naphthalene.
>It's a hydrocarbon (polycyclic hydrocarbon, if you're into details)
>that would be quite soluble in wax and would thus diffuse readily into
>the comb.
>--
>John Taylor    (W3ZID)     |  "The opinions expressed are those of the
>roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com |   writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company. "
 
Thanks to Rick and especially John for clarifying this.  Quite a
difference there, no?  That's one thing that bothers me about the
Information Superhighway: the ability to disperse misinformation
worldwide.  Perhaps there is more to be learned from Adrian's sig ("No
help at All!?") than meets the eye!  (Not attributing misinformation
to Adrian, just acknowledging his sig).
 
Again, thanks to those who set this record straight!  Keep up the
good work!  Perhaps there should be a very explicit section in the
FAQ along the lines "Can I use my mother's moth balls to control
wax moths?"?
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Mon Aug  8 12:45:52 EDT 1994
Article: 685 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty...
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 11:14:44 EDT
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
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In article <sandrock.776117112@aries>
sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) writes:
 
>    ... one of the middle frames ... had some honey cells along the
>top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared
>to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if
>this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned
>me somewhat.
 
This COULD be a bad sign.  Normal appearance for hatched out cells is
a bee emerging/chewing its way through the cell cap.  If there are no
emerging bees evident there may me reasons for concern.  If there are
dead bees behind the broken caps there is definite cause for concern,
as this is a symptom of American Foulbrood.
 
The good news is that you're poking around in the hive!  Check again,
but go throught the entire hive.  The capping pattern as you described
may be normal, but it's hard to say without knowing what things looked
like surrounding that frame.  It may be the case that the middle frame
you picked was an area of the brood chamber that had just hatched all
of the bees and had not yet been reused by the queen.  Hopefully, this
is the case.  Or, it may be indicative of a brood disease.  The things
to look for are whether the cells are empty and clean, ready for the
next generation, and how the pattern you observed compares to the
pattern of the surrounding frames.
 
Also, use your other senses: sound and smell.  These are harder senses
to develope and exploit when working your bees, but they are very
valuable to the beekeeper.  Listen to the buzzing of the bees.  Is it a
busy, hive at work sort of sound (that's the impression I get from your
description) or is it a stressed tone?  It's hard to describe the
difference, and perhaps the destinction only comes with experience.
Smell is also important.  Does the hive smell normal?  Literature describes
the smell of foulbrood as sickly sweet, but it's hard to put those words
into an olfactory experience other than to experience it.  And if you are
able to experience it, learn it(!), because it's not an experience you'll
care to oft' repeat.
 
Otherwise, it sounds like you're getting into the experience of
beekeeping.  Good luck with your subsequent inspections!
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!


From mthunzeker@aol.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:16 EDT 1994
Article: 665 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mthunzeker@aol.com (MTHunzeker)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Insecticide in bee venom?
Date: 4 Aug 1994 23:49:05 -0400
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One of the members of our local beekeepers association was checking his
colonies after finding some spray kill and got stung.  (They sure don't
like to get sprayed!)  His reaction was quite a bit more severe than
usual with a very large red area and swelling.  He was worried he had
developed a serious allergic reaction, but has been stung numerous 
times since then and only had a standard (mild) response.

So we are wondering if it is possible for a bee to pass on an
insecticide in her venom?  Has any research been performed in this
area?

Mike Hunzeker
MTHunzeker@aol.com
Boulder County Colorado Beekeeper



From mthunzeker@aol.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:17 EDT 1994
Article: 666 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mthunzeker@aol.com (MTHunzeker)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide
Date: 4 Aug 1994 23:51:05 -0400
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(This seems to be my night for insecticide questions.)

A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name
right) for treating corn just after it has tassled.  According to one 
of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, 
PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but 
the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" 
(probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots).

Is this actually a legal use of PENCAP?  Does anyone have any 
experience with this?  Are there studies we can use to demonstrate the 
danger of PENCAP?  Has anyone been successful in forcing limits on the 
use of PENCAP?

Any available information would be greatly appreciated.

Mike Hunzeker
MTHunzeker@aol.com
Boulder County Colorado Beekeeper



From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Fri Aug 12 10:57:18 EDT 1994
Article: 667 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide
Message-ID: <Cu2AAB.AA4@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
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Date: Fri, 5 Aug 1994 12:20:35 GMT
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In article <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com>,
MTHunzeker <mthunzeker@aol.com> wrote:
>A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name
>right) for treating corn just after it has tassled.  According to one 
>of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, 
>PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but 
>the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" 
>(probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots).
 Mike, check with your state apiarist, about the law. Here in VA, if there
are known bees present, an applicator must notify the beekeeeper well ahead
of time before application, for it is illegal to spray during bee flight
as per the label.  PENCAP-M resembles pollen,
and since bees are working corn, gathering pollen, PENCAP-M,
applied at this time , would be deadly to colonies foraging.
The applicator needs to know that there are bees present. Involve your
Dept. of Agriculture in this issue, bee inspection or the State apiarist's
office, but get somebody on the situation.
 Label laws are very hard to enforce in bee kills.
Adam
(VA Bee inspector)
-- 
============================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   =======


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:19 EDT 1994
Article: 668 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Insecticide in bee venom?
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 94 08:43:43 EDT
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
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In article <31scrh$n7j@search01.news.aol.com>
mthunzeker@aol.com (MTHunzeker) writes:
 
>So we are wondering if it is possible for a bee to pass on an
>insecticide in her venom?  Has any research been performed in this
>area?
 
Stating up front that this is mere speculation on my part, I would
imagine that insecticide would do in/off/kill a bee before there would
be time for any insecticidal residues to be absorbed/transferred to
bee venom.  Furthermore, I'd speculate that a poisoned bee would not be
up to the task of defending a hive or stinging a beekeeper: she'd be
too busy kicking the bucket!


From rsrodger@wam.umd.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:20 EDT 1994
Article: 669 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu (R S Rodgers)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 12:14:54 -0500
Organization: University of Maryland College Park
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In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>,
SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) wrote:
> (worst case scenario (American Foulbrood) calls for
> treatment by fire).

Pardon a question from an interested reader (no knowledge whatsoever
of beekeeping), but what are "Robber Bees" (wasps?) and what is
American Foulbrood?

I ask because I'm curious as to what kinds of diseases strike bees.
In my pesticide class, we covered the use of biological agents instead
of chemical pesticides (fungi, etc.), but nothing about diseases that
strike beneficial insects.

--
Previous .sig deleted because some people couldn't parse "from email
_received_ re: a post on comp.sys.powerpc."



From sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:22 EDT 1994
Article: 670 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: The hive ain't empty...
Date: 5 Aug 94 20:05:12 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
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Since I stirred things up a bit with my questions about empty hives
and robber bees, I thought it might be good to let people know what
I've found since then.

Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling
about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as
opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb
on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so
thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead
removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the
top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared
to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if
this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned
me somewhat.

The bees seemed quite calm and gentle. A dozen or two were floating
around the hive, a few seemed to check me out, but they mostly seemed to
ignore me--a rather gratifying attitude to my way of thinking. :-)

I could easily see dozens of bees crawling around on the frames, and
one thing that puzzled me a bit was they mostly seemed to ignore the
smoke I would puff at them occasionally. Still, it felt reassuring to
have the smoker handy.

I'm going out of town this weekend, but next week I intend to look at
a few more frames and try to spot the queen and/or active brood cells.

Anyway, my newbie impression is that a colony has indeed moved in,
but perhaps someone would care to interpret what I've seen so far.

Thanks again to everyone for the helpful comments.

Mark Sandrock
-- 
Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign	"Fruechte reifen durch die Sonne,
Chemical Sciences Computer Center	 Menschen durch die Liebe."
505 S. Mathews Ave., Urbana, IL 61801			--Julius Langbehn
Email: sandrock@uiuc.edu


From rshough@tasc.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:23 EDT 1994
Article: 671 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 17:56:06 -0500
Organization: TASC
Lines: 55
Distribution: world
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In article <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com>, Paul.Ferroni@ab.com wrote:

> In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>,
SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) writes:
> > I'm surprised that there isn't more concern about the "Empty Hive"
> > thread that has been going on the past few days.  
> 
> [...munch...]
> 
> > And while I'm on my soapbox, does anyone else have a problem with the
> > moth balls on top of the frames suggestion?  Especially when the very
> > same posting states that the wax WILL absorb moth ball chemicals!
> > Can you spell honey contamination?  I can just picture a honey judge:
> > "Hmmm.  Nice color.  Pleasant order with just the right subtle
> > undertones of moth balls!"  Glad I am that I've never had the pleasure.
> >  
> 
>   I am the poster of the mothballs suggestion...  My (longwinded) comments 
> follow.
 [...munch...]
> NOTE: No mention of Paradichlorobenzene (moth balls) in this section.

Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!!
There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her sweaters
(I forget the chemical name), and then there is Paradichlorobenzene (PDB)
that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth.

I'm under the impression that use of PDB on stored comb is widespread, and
not detrimental to the comb, although there is a need to air out the combs
for several days prior to putting them on the hives.

While my mom's moth balls would probably kill the wax moth, I'm pretty
sure that there is a problem with that chemical staying in the wax. Besides,
my mom's moth balls aren't labeled (read legal) for use on combs (I think
PDB is labeled for use on stored comb... isn't it??)

Any comment, Aaron??

> The bottom line is that its obviously best to keep stong hives, and store
> your empty supers in sealed bags, in cold areas (freezing) where possible.

Amen to that!!

Have a good weekend, all!

Rick Hough

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.


From rshough@tasc.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:24 EDT 1994
Article: 672 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 18:16:14 -0500
Organization: TASC
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In article <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu>, rsrodger@wam.umd.edu wrote:

> In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>,
> SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) wrote:
> > (worst case scenario (American Foulbrood) calls for
> > treatment by fire).
> 
> Pardon a question from an interested reader (no knowledge whatsoever
> of beekeeping), but what are "Robber Bees" (wasps?) and what is
> American Foulbrood?

Robber Bees = honey bees that come from a different hive to steal honey
from a weak or uninhabited hive.

American Foulbrood (AFB) is a disease of honeybee brood (young bees)
- it strikes the pupal stage, and is fatal to the individual bees
that it infects. If enough individuals get it, it can kill an entire hive.
It is spread by spores, which can contaminate the honey (thus the
transference of AFB by robber bees), as well as the combs. AFB
spores are not dangerous to humans - our digestive system takes care
of that, but the poor bees don't fare so well. The darn spores are
very tough to kill, and thus the fire treatment is the method of choice
for dealing with serious infections.

Hope this answers your questions.

Rick

****************************************************
* Rick Hough             * email: rshough@tasc.com *
* TASC                   * Phone: (617) 942-2000   *
* 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX:   (617) 942-7100   *
* Reading, MA 01867      *                         *
****************************************************
SET DISCLAIMER ON
The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's.


From chowe@cthoneybee.win.net Fri Aug 12 10:57:25 EDT 1994
Article: 673 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Message-ID: <138@cthoneybee.win.net>
References: <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: chowe@cthoneybee.win.net (Charles Howe)
From: chowe@cthoneybee.win.net (Charles Howe)
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 1994 06:04:57 GMT
Subject: Re: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide
Lines: 68

 
In article <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com>, MTHunzeker (mthunzeker@aol.com) writes:
>(This seems to be my night for insecticide questions.)
>
>A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name
>right) for treating corn just after it has tassled.  According to one 
>of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, 
>PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but 
>the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" 
>(probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots).
>
>Is this actually a legal use of PENCAP?  Does anyone have any 
>experience with this?  Are there studies we can use to demonstrate the 
>danger of PENCAP?  Has anyone been successful in forcing limits on the 
>use of PENCAP?
>
>Any available information would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Mike Hunzeker
>MTHunzeker@aol.com
>Boulder County Colorado Beekeeper
>
>
Oh yes,

Pencap-M is micro-encapsilated methylparathion as I recall. Until
Connecticut's regulation was modified to stop the use of this
material on tasseling corn we were loosing many colonies to
methylparathion poisoning every year in CT. This stuff is
particularly deadly to bees since they apparantly gather the stuff
along with the pollen (they seem to *not* be able to discriminate
between pollen and the capsules of insecticide). Once the stuff is
brought back to the colony it gets incorporated into the combs
(wax probably) and is left there when the colony expires. When new
bees are installed into the colony they may also die from the
remaining material in the combs. 

For our bees corn pollen ranks up there with dandylion pollen as
favorites among the top five. When corn tassels my bees pollen
production jumps from about 1/3 cup per day to 2 cups of corn pollen.

To get a regulation limiting the use of Pencap-M in CT. we started
by sending insecticide killed bees to the State Entomologist for
analysis. This showed that, as I recall, about 1/2 of the bees were
killed by the active ingredient in Pencap-M. If it wasn't 1/2 it
was the largest single insecticide killer of bees. At that point, we
(the CT. Beekeepers Assn.) hired a lawyer for advice and the process
of getting a regulation in CT. stopping the use of Pencap-M on
tasseling corn left the Association with a substantial debt. 

We went through this process over 10 years ago. I don't know if it
ended up in a change in the label for other states, but
Connecticut's more limiting use restrictions for Pencap-M still
stands. It is noteworthy, that after the regulation went into
affect the number of insecticide poisonings sharply declined.

If more detailed information is required I will try to come up with
names and addresses of people who worked closely with the problem
at that time.

   -----------------------------------------------------------------------
  | Chuck Howe - Editor                     | Phone or FAX: (203)491-2338 |
  | Connecticut Honey Bee                   | 86, 5 1/2 Mile Road         |
  | INTERNET - CHOWE@CTHONEYBEE.WIN.NET     | Goshen, CT. 06756           |
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From rsrodger@wam.umd.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:26 EDT 1994
Article: 674 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu (R S Rodgers)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 1994 10:22:17 -0500
Organization: University of Maryland College Park
Lines: 10
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References: <sandrock.775502827@aries> <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu> <rshough-0508941816140001@rshough.read.tasc.com>
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In article <rshough-0508941816140001@rshough.read.tasc.com>,
rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote:
> Hope this answers your questions.

Yes, thanks.

--
Previous .sig deleted because some people couldn't parse "from email
_received_ re: a post on comp.sys.powerpc."



From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Fri Aug 12 10:57:27 EDT 1994
Article: 675 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 00:45:27 GMT
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Message-ID: <roadent.501.2E442EA7@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au>
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NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-03.cc.monash.edu.au

In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) writes:
>From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
>Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
>Date: Wed, 03 Aug 94 10:06:08 EDT

>I'm surprised that there isn't more concern about the "Empty Hive"
>thread that has been going on the past few days.  The scenario was

In quick defence of myself, I did express some such concerns (I always do....
I am on a CRUSADE against diseases...my fathers entire apiary was wiped out 
by AFB) I did actaully reply along that vein, but from my other account, and 
I don't seem to be able to get the news posting facility on that acount to 
work...


Adrian (trying to help myself this time....)


From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Fri Aug 12 10:57:28 EDT 1994
Article: 676 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty...
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 00:59:21 GMT
Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University
Lines: 31
Message-ID: <roadent.503.2E4431E9@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au>
References: <sandrock.776117112@aries>
NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-03.cc.monash.edu.au

In article <sandrock.776117112@aries> sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) writes:
>From: sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock)

>Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling
>about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as

That sounds reasonably typical of a colony (to me at least)


>opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb
>on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so
>thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead
>removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the

The way I usually open up a hive is to remove one of the edge frames, in 
your case, the shady side one as it would have less bees and wax on it, 
then move the others across so that you have room to manipulate them.


>top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared
>to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if

Find some literature on AFB, and compare any pictures in it with what you 
see...also chalk brrod, EFB, and other brood diseases.  If you are still in 
doubt, cut a piece of the affected comb and send it to a bee inspector  type 
place...they will be able to give an accurate diagnosis (free in 
australia...)


apart from all that, good luck, and enjoy.
Adrian.


From at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Fri Aug 12 10:57:29 EDT 1994
Article: 677 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (R John Northcote)
Subject: Re: What do I do about skunks?
Message-ID: <Cu54nt.ID1@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (Usenet News Admin)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 01:11:53 GMT
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Skunks will scratch at the entrance and eat the bees as they come
out to investigate. I have some bottom boards with 3/8 inch
scratches in them from the skunks. I have found a dead skunk in
one of my yards but otherwise know of two methods which  work.
The first is to have a landlord (eg farmer) who shoots them 
for me with asking - aim for the backbone/neck sho he doesn't
'fire'. THe other method is to inject a raw egg with cynaide
or arsenic and bury the egg in front of the hive (one inch or
so). You'll find the skunk nearby. Buying cyanide/arseic
is a sometimes a problem though - depends on the state/province
you live in.
-- 
R John Northcote
c/o National Capital Freenet


From at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Fri Aug 12 10:57:30 EDT 1994
Article: 678 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (R John Northcote)
Subject: Re: 1993 Honey Prices
Message-ID: <Cu54y7.ILr@freenet.carleton.ca>
Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (Usenet News Admin)
Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 01:18:06 GMT
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Prices in US are usually by the pound (remember that quaint 
Measure?). Here in Canada we usually quote honey in pounds as
well (except for the government which uses Kilos). In 93
Canadian wholesale prices were in the 60-65 cents/pound 
range in 45 gal (CDN) barrels. At the time the exchange
rate was about 1 CDN$ = .79 US$ (currently 72 cnets).
-- 
R John Northcote
c/o National Capital Freenet


From sph@usgp4.ATT.COM Fri Aug 12 10:57:31 EDT 1994
Article: 679 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill)
Subject: old honey
Message-ID: <SPH.94Aug7120226@usgp4.ATT.COM>
Sender: news@nntpa.cb.att.com (Netnews Administration)
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Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 17:02:26 GMT
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I have one hive of bees down in central Il, and I have 4 gallons of 
honey left that is 3 - 5 years old.  It used to taste pretty good, but 
it has gotten dark, is crystalized, and does not taste that great 
anymore.  It was not stored in the best of conditions.

If I feed this to my bees will it make this year's crop dark and 
taste old?  Or will the bees "freshen it up" somewhat?

One more question:  I have had this colony for 7 years now, and it was 
re-queened 2 years before I bought it.  Should I consider buying a new 
queen next year, or should I just let them go as long as they seem 
strong ( and they looked great yesterday ).


Thanks in advance

Stephen P. Hill
sph@uscbu.ih.att.com


From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Fri Aug 12 10:57:31 EDT 1994
Article: 680 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: old honey
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 1994 07:22:30 GMT
Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University
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In article <SPH.94Aug7120226@usgp4.ATT.COM> sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill) writes:
>From: sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill)

>honey left that is 3 - 5 years old.  It used to taste pretty good, but 

>If I feed this to my bees will it make this year's crop dark and 
>taste old?  Or will the bees "freshen it up" somewhat?


Usually bees wont store honey that is given to them in a honey condition, 
they will just eat it, and use it for brood food, so it shouldn't affect the 
honey quality.  
BUT are you sure (if it wasn't stored in good conditions) that it is disease 
free???


>One more question:  I have had this colony for 7 years now, and it was 
>re-queened 2 years before I bought it.  Should I consider buying a new 
>queen next year, or should I just let them go as long as they seem 
>strong ( and they looked great yesterday ).

Well...the naverage life span of a queen is about two years, so you should 
have had a few queens since then, although you may not have noticed.  Some 
beekeepers requeen every two to four years, but I only do so if I have an 
unproducitve hive, or one that is paricularly unpleasant to work with.   I 
also like to requeen if I am splitting a hive, because there is a theory 
that leaving a "swarm induced" queen will promote the swarm impulse gene...
if there is such a thing.


Adrian (was I helpful this timt?? hu?  huh?  was I??)


From roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:32 EDT 1994
Article: 681 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Date: Mon, 8 Aug 1994 07:26:06 -0400
From: roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com (John E. Taylor III)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Distribution: world
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Message-ID: <roh033.mah48d-080894072656@136.141.220.39>
References: <sandrock.775502827@aries> <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com> <rshough-0508941756060001
Organization: Rohm and Haas Company
Lines: 16

In article <rshough-0508941756060001@rshough.read.tasc.com>,
rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote:

> In article <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com>, Paul.Ferroni@ab.com wrote:
>
> Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!!
> There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her sweaters
> (I forget the chemical name), and then there is Paradichlorobenzene (PDB)
> that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth.

The "other" mothballs (the ones you should NOT use) are naphthalene.  It's
a hydrocarbon (polycyclic hydrocarbon, if you're into details) that would
be quite soluble in wax and would thus diffuse readily into the comb.

--
John Taylor    (W3ZID)     |  "The opinions expressed are those of the
roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com |   writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company."


From altabios@bham.ac.uk Fri Aug 12 10:57:34 EDT 1994
Article: 682 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty...
Date: 8 Aug 1994 12:10:14 GMT
Organization: The University of Birmingham, UK
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References: <sandrock.776117112@aries>
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X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.80

In article <sandrock.776117112@aries>, sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) says:
>
>Since I stirred things up a bit with my questions about empty hives
>and robber bees, I thought it might be good to let people know what
>I've found since then.
>
>Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling
>about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as
>opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb
>on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so
>thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead
>removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the
>top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared
>to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if
>this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned
>me somewhat.
>
>The bees seemed quite calm and gentle. A dozen or two were floating
>around the hive, a few seemed to check me out, but they mostly seemed to
>ignore me--a rather gratifying attitude to my way of thinking. :-)
>
>I could easily see dozens of bees crawling around on the frames, and
>one thing that puzzled me a bit was they mostly seemed to ignore the
>smoke I would puff at them occasionally. Still, it felt reassuring to
>have the smoker handy.
>
>I'm going out of town this weekend, but next week I intend to look at
>a few more frames and try to spot the queen and/or active brood cells.
>
>Anyway, my newbie impression is that a colony has indeed moved in,
>but perhaps someone would care to interpret what I've seen so far.
>
>Thanks again to everyone for the helpful comments.
>
>Mark Sandrock
>-- 
>Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign   "Fruechte reifen durch die Sonne,
>Chemical Sciences Computer Center        Menschen durch die Liebe."
>505 S. Mathews Ave., Urbana, IL 61801                   --Julius Langbehn
>Email: sandrock@uiuc.edu



Seeing brood cells with the tops broken is a disturbing sign. The only time
this should happen is when the new bee is coming out. The cap is then quickly
removed and the cell cleaned up for the next occupant. It may be that these
contain dead bees and they have been opened by the new workers. 
It's hard to quantify numbers of bees by Email but you should be seeing
frames covered with bees, in their hundreds. Certainly they may not move
for smoke, the main effect of smoke is to make them feed and get so full
they can't sting you.
I would suggest looking for eggs and brood. If they are there, you have a working
queen.


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:35 EDT 1994
Article: 683 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive?
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 10:52:16 EDT
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
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Message-ID: <1700C98E5S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>
References: <sandrock.775502827@aries> <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <roadent.501.2E442EA7@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au>
NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu

Some final comments on my "Empty Hive" missal.
 
First, I'm glad that readers saw through the flames and took the face
value of my post.  Bees will do what bees will do, beekeeper or not.
There are no value judgments involved.  Bees will visit an empty
hive, irregardless of the reasons why the hive is empty.  Valid
reasons or bad excuses don't matter to the bees who see an empty hive
as an empty hive.
 
Concerning the moth ball thread, I guess it breaks down into a couple
of things: commercial vs hobby beekeeping and greens vs browns
(organic vs chemicals).  I am a hobby beekeeper with twenty years
experience.  My beekeeping concerns are small potatoes.  I don't have
to store large numbers of honey supers and am able to spend more
time/labor tending my equipment.  My goal in keeping bees is to be
outside enjoying the buzz.  The hobby is its own reward, the honey
harvest is a bonus.  I also lean towards the green side.  I garden
organically whenever possible, although I've been known to resort to
herbicides (flower gardens only, never vegetable/consumable gardens)
when the weeding task is beyond my ability to handle it organically.
I do however, avoid nonorganic pesticides at all costs.  Better to
lose to the buggers than poison them with chemicals in my book.
 
This explains my distaste for fumigants, sanctioned or not.  I too
got out my copy of "The_Hive_and_the_Honeybee" and read up on
fumigants.  Finding a reference that says that it's ok to use PDB
and/or moth crystals doesn't make it ok for ME to use it/them.
Knowing that the U.S. government says that after three days of airing
out the supers they will be "OK" doesn't necessarily give me comfort,
although I ALWAYS believe whatever the governments says ;-) .
 
As a small potatoes beekeeper, I am able to wrap ALL of my honey
supers in plastic garbage bags and with diligence, I can avoid
problems with wax moths.  I have no need to resort to fumigants when
mechanics will serve my needs.  I would probably sing a different tune
were my operation multiplied a hundred fold, but I am more comfortable
knowing that my honey has not been exposed to fumigants, whether used
properly or not.  When a query is posted about whether honey is
exposed to chemicals, the answer can't be "No, it was produced in
honey supers that were exposed to chemicals in a sanctioned manner",
the answer is "Yes, the honey has been exposed to chemicals".  It's up
to the consumer to decide to what degree they are comfortable with the
USDA sanctioned exposure.
 
Laying all my cards on the table, I'll admit to using Apistan.  I've
lost too many hives to mites, and there is no alternative at the
present time, so USDA sanctions away, I use the strips and follow the
"moving target" directions.  I'm not reassured by following the
directions and I know that at least on a molecular level, my honey
contains a contaminate that it did not before I started using the
strips.  I'm not comfortable with whatever level of contaminates there
may or may not be, but given the alternatives I'll use the strips and
live with the discomfort.
 
This is not meant to start off an organic vs chemicals flame war,
that's already covered on rec.gardens.  I'll continue to avoid
fumigants, I'll continue to use Apistan, I'll continue to monitor
progress on genetic resistance, and I'll continue to be comforted in
knowing that the honey produced by my bees has a lower level of
exposure to sanctioned chemicals than most.
 
Cheers!
Aaron Morris
 
P.S. On a different note, while browsing "The_Hive_and_the_Honeybee" I
stumbled across a reference to a US president in the '70s who was a
real believer in the positive benefits of bee pollen, but the
reference didn't say which US president (Nixon, Ford, Carter, Regan).
I'll bet it was Carter, but does anyone know for sure?


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:36 EDT 1994
Article: 684 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: "Mothballs" as a fumigant?
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 11:12:33 EDT
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
Lines: 30
Message-ID: <1700C9DA1S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu

>In article <rshough-0508941756060001@rshough.read.tasc.com>,
>rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote:
>
>> ...
>> Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!!
>> There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her
>> sweaters (I forget the chemical name), and then there is
>> Paradichlorobenzene (PDB) that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth.
>
>The "other" mothballs (the ones you should NOT use) are naphthalene.
>It's a hydrocarbon (polycyclic hydrocarbon, if you're into details)
>that would be quite soluble in wax and would thus diffuse readily into
>the comb.
>--
>John Taylor    (W3ZID)     |  "The opinions expressed are those of the
>roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com |   writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company. "
 
Thanks to Rick and especially John for clarifying this.  Quite a
difference there, no?  That's one thing that bothers me about the
Information Superhighway: the ability to disperse misinformation
worldwide.  Perhaps there is more to be learned from Adrian's sig ("No
help at All!?") than meets the eye!  (Not attributing misinformation
to Adrian, just acknowledging his sig).
 
Again, thanks to those who set this record straight!  Keep up the
good work!  Perhaps there should be a very explicit section in the
FAQ along the lines "Can I use my mother's moth balls to control
wax moths?"?
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:37 EDT 1994
Article: 685 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty...
Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 11:14:44 EDT
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
Lines: 42
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References: <sandrock.776117112@aries>
NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu

In article <sandrock.776117112@aries>
sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) writes:
 
>    ... one of the middle frames ... had some honey cells along the
>top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared
>to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if
>this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned
>me somewhat.
 
This COULD be a bad sign.  Normal appearance for hatched out cells is
a bee emerging/chewing its way through the cell cap.  If there are no
emerging bees evident there may me reasons for concern.  If there are
dead bees behind the broken caps there is definite cause for concern,
as this is a symptom of American Foulbrood.
 
The good news is that you're poking around in the hive!  Check again,
but go throught the entire hive.  The capping pattern as you described
may be normal, but it's hard to say without knowing what things looked
like surrounding that frame.  It may be the case that the middle frame
you picked was an area of the brood chamber that had just hatched all
of the bees and had not yet been reused by the queen.  Hopefully, this
is the case.  Or, it may be indicative of a brood disease.  The things
to look for are whether the cells are empty and clean, ready for the
next generation, and how the pattern you observed compares to the
pattern of the surrounding frames.
 
Also, use your other senses: sound and smell.  These are harder senses
to develope and exploit when working your bees, but they are very
valuable to the beekeeper.  Listen to the buzzing of the bees.  Is it a
busy, hive at work sort of sound (that's the impression I get from your
description) or is it a stressed tone?  It's hard to describe the
difference, and perhaps the destinction only comes with experience.
Smell is also important.  Does the hive smell normal?  Literature describes
the smell of foulbrood as sickly sweet, but it's hard to put those words
into an olfactory experience other than to experience it.  And if you are
able to experience it, learn it(!), because it's not an experience you'll
care to oft' repeat.
 
Otherwise, it sounds like you're getting into the experience of
beekeeping.  Good luck with your subsequent inspections!
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!


From hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch Fri Aug 12 10:57:38 EDT 1994
Article: 686 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch (Hans-Ulrich THOMAS)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Varroa resistant honeybees
Date: 11 Aug 1994 06:34:14 GMT
Organization: Solid State Physics, ETHZ, Switzerland
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Message-ID: <hthomas-1108940836190001@otto-4.ethz.ch>
NNTP-Posting-Host: otto-4.ethz.ch

Some days ago somebody enquired about such bees. 

The journal "Bee World" carried in its issue 2 1994 an interesting article
written by Mr. Ralph Buechler about this aspect. The answer is: Yes this
behaviour is possible. Honeybee races vary widly in there natural
resistance to varroatosis. The article gives a good overview and shows the
efforts by some researchers in finding such races through selection or
breeding.

In case somebody needs this article I can mail a copy. Please send e-mail to

- hthomas@solid.phys.ethz,ch

                                                   Hans


From hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch Fri Aug 12 10:57:38 EDT 1994
Article: 687 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch (Hans-Ulrich THOMAS)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: BeeNet
Date: 11 Aug 1994 12:55:33 GMT
Organization: Solid State Physics, ETHZ, Switzerland
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Message-ID: <hthomas-1108941457390001@otto-4.ethz.ch>
NNTP-Posting-Host: otto-4.ethz.ch

In an older issue of "Bee World" I read about an other beekeeping BBS.
It's called "BeeNet". Does anybody know how to access it through the
Internet or any other means?

In case you want to e-mail I can be reached via:

- hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch

Thanks for your help.

                                          Hans


From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:39 EDT 1994
Article: 688 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What to do with empty
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 09:59:28 EDT
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
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References: <33A15839@beenet.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu

In article <33A15839@beenet.com>
ANDY.NACHBAUR@beenet.com (andy nachbaur) writes:
 
>>SYSAM@UACSC2.ALBANY.EDU queried
>>                           ... a US president in the '70s who was a
>>real believer in the positive benefits of bee pollen...
>
>Andy responded:
>     It was RR!   Someone gave him some pollen bars...or something.
 
Well if that's the case I would never make a claim about bee pollen
having a positive effect on one's memory!


From jwg2y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU Fri Aug 12 10:57:40 EDT 1994
Article: 689 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: jwg2y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Warner Granade)
Subject: best time to harvest
Message-ID: <CuDp17.H6C@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
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Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 16:12:43 GMT
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I remember reading that the best time to harvest honey was in the middle
of the day and that bees tended to get madder during a low-pressure time
like before a thunder storm. Well, on Sunday, I went out (admittedly late
in the day at 5pm) to get into my hive, and were they mad. I took out 4
frames and left after getting my rite of passage sting--my first in the
three years I've had this hive. Last year, they hardly bothered me. The
frames were totally covered with bees in this super with some uncapped
frames. 
OK, I decided to try again yesterday in the middle of the day, temp
80degrees in the shade and hazy. They were even more angry like I had
dissed the queen or something and hundreds of them flew at my veil. OK,
maybe 50 total flew at my veil, but it seemed liked hundreds. I was
smoking them like crazy and even smoking myself. I thought sure everyone
would be out to lunch, but apparently not. 

So, is there a better time/condition than others to open a hive and
harvest the honey? Should I take a sprayer of cool water or something?
--
Warner Granade *****jwg2y@virginia.edu
804-924-7409



From fgt@cadre.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:42 EDT 1994
Article: 690 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: fgt@cadre.com (Fred G. Thurber)
Subject: Re: best time to harvest
Message-ID: <CuDv7D.Jsy@cadre.com>
Sender: usenet@cadre.com (News Account)
Nntp-Posting-Host: cadre.cadre.com
Reply-To: fgt@cadre.com
Organization: CADRE TECHNOLOGIES INC.
References: <CuDp17.H6C@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 18:26:01 GMT
Lines: 5

	Angry bees have also become a problem for me.  Could it be that
there is little nectar right now in my area because of dry conditions?
Would feeding them a big dose of undiluted honey calm them down?




From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Fri Aug 12 10:57:43 EDT 1994
Article: 691 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: best time to harvest
Message-ID: <CuEELx.863@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa.
References: <CuDp17.H6C@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> <CuDv7D.Jsy@cadre.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 01:25:09 GMT
Lines: 10

In article <CuDv7D.Jsy@cadre.com>, Fred G. Thurber <fgt@cadre.com> wrote:
>	Angry bees have also become a problem for me.  

Often when harvesting honey the bees may be aggressive.
Adam

-- 
============================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   =======


From lapointe@netcom.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:44 EDT 1994
Article: 692 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: lapointe@netcom.com (Douglas LaPointe)
Subject: What is bee pollen?
Message-ID: <lapointeCuEMMs.Do4@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 04:18:28 GMT
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First I will apologize for asking such a newbee question, but I 
could not find my answer in the FAQ.

I saw bee pollen for sale in a health food store.  Is this pollen 
that has been harvested by honey bees?  It was touted as being 
extremely nutritious, "you can live off of this stuff". Is this true?  

TIA

Douglas    


From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Wed Aug 17 00:30:41 EDT 1994
Article: 693 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: best time to harvest
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 07:21:04 GMT
Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University
Lines: 28
Message-ID: <roadent.512.2E4B22E0@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au>
References: <CuDp17.H6C@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU> <CuDv7D.Jsy@cadre.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au

In article <CuDv7D.Jsy@cadre.com> fgt@cadre.com (Fred G. Thurber) writes:
>From: fgt@cadre.com (Fred G. Thurber)
>Subject: Re: best time to harvest
>Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 18:26:01 GMT

>        Angry bees have also become a problem for me.  Could it be that
>there is little nectar right now in my area because of dry conditions?
>Would feeding them a big dose of undiluted honey calm them down?


The best thing to do is to get a reasonably gentle strain of bees, and to 
not rush into opening the hive...wiat a minute or so after the first puff of 
smoke so they have a chance to start gorging thenselves.  Something else you 
might like to check is the type of smoker fuel you are using...I have 
noticed marked differences between eucalyptus leaves, pine needles and 
heshian sacking...
Another thing I have started doing recently is to take a shaker of thin 
sugar syrup and shake this over the bees as soon as I open the hive, and 
right before I close it...I don't use honey, purely to avoid any risk of 
spreading disease.  I don't think I have any disease (apart from some 
noseema) in any of my hives, but I don't want to suddenly find out that the 
hive I got my feeding honey from had AFB...as the way I would probably find 
this would be because all my hives would die...
mostly, the bees are easier to handle if they are the right temperature, 
queenrite, and well fed.

Adrian (I hope I'm helpful this time...)
 


From laakkone@cc.Helsinki.FI Wed Aug 17 00:30:42 EDT 1994
Article: 694 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: laakkone@cc.Helsinki.FI (Tero Laakkonen)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: maximizing vicia villosa seed crop with bees?
Date: 13 Aug 1994 14:02:55 +0300
Organization: University of Helsinki
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hi,

what kind of bee (and at what density) do i need for maximum seed crop
of vicia villosa? what is a good (and up-to-date) reference?

thanks!
-- 
"i abhor you pretentious insight. i respect conscious guessing
because it consists of two good qualities: courage and modesty."
-imre lakatos


From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Wed Aug 17 00:30:42 EDT 1994
Article: 695 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Gosh, it's quiet in here....
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 1994 11:34:25 GMT
Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University
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NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au
Keywords: echo!!!

Helo??? ooo?? ooo?? ooo??
I thought it might echo a little.....there does seem to have been a little 
fall of in the number of postings here lately...I suppose all you people on 
the upside of the planet are busy out harvesting tanker loads of honey...
I suppose it is really going to start getting quiet as everyone slows the 
pace down for their winter operations....I think we need more Aussies online 
so that we can have inane chat about obvious things all year 'round.
I guess, just as I am getting ready for my fourth harvest (well my fourth 
personal harvest...not counting the five or six I did with the guy who's 
hive management techniques seemes to be responsible for over 300 hives 
including my fathers 30, being wiped out by AFB) everybody else will be busy 
talking about storage of combs and various other winter operations....
I suppose the small hiatus in the activity that comes in your Autumn and my 
spring will give time for me to get to work on the australian sections of 
the FAQ instead of being totally useless trying to help everybody...:->
While there is a bit less in the way of hive activity going on, why don't we 
all swap best/worst experiences about beekeeping...

My worst experience was trying to work our first (at least we think it was 
first) AFB infected hive.  Actually they belonged to the guy I mentioned 
above, but all our hives where in with his....he had all the equipment, we 
just had hives..
Anyway, this hive gave me more stings in one day than I have had before or 
since....in fact probably even if I was to add up all the stings I'd ever 
had, this would have been more....
This hive was the worst pack of niggly little bitches I have ever seen (
although those of you that have seen Afric. bees have probably seen worse) 
and as soon as we started smoking the hive, all four of us were attacked....
once we had the hive opened, one person stayed there as each of the rest of 
us went to was our srings to get rid of the venom smell....our bucket of 
water was about ten metres away from this particular hive, and as soon as we 
took our gloves of to get at the sting, another two or three would seemingly 
materialise next to it...then after washing the arm or whatever and moving 
to put the glove back on, we would get stung again.  We closed that hive up, 
but for the next few hours, if we walked withing three or four meters of it, 
we got stung.
The reason I believe this hive to be responsible for promoting the spread of 
AFB through the apiary is because even the guys that had been doing bees for 
years were to wary of this hive to do all the work it needed for swarm and 
disease control, in fact it was rarely opened, and it wasn't even robbed for 
a year or two.  I was about 14 at the time, and blissfully unaware that such 
things as bee diseases existed....but the older guys should have known 
better...


Well...thats all for now....I just thought I'd share that...oh...my best 
experience.....every year when the first bit of honey flows out of the 
bottom of the extractor....(what else??  :->  )
Adrian.


From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Wed Aug 17 00:30:43 EDT 1994
Article: 696 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf
From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Bes/Wicwas Press Catalog 
Message-ID: <CuJuuB.9zM@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa.
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 00:03:46 GMT
Lines: 26

Forwarded from Bee-l:


From: "<Larry Connor>" <LJConnor@AOL.COM>
Subject:      New catalog

Expect delivery of our new catalog this week, with book, slide and video list
of current bee/beekeeping/social insect titles. Will send a free copy to any
Bee-L people who request it. Also, if you have a club or class, I will ship
them in bulk. Indicate the number you require. Again, no charge. Mail address
is:

BES/Wicwas Press
Larry Connor, Ph.D., Owner
P. O. Box 817
Cheshire CT 06410 USA

 I'd assume he'd send anyone on USENET a free copy too,
at least so he figures out we're here!
Adam 


-- 
============================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   =======


From griffin@dorsai.org Wed Aug 17 00:30:44 EDT 1994
Article: 697 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org!griffin
From: griffin@dorsai.org (Leslie_Bildner)
Subject: Image of Beehive in art
Message-ID: <CuKG12.Jz9@dorsai.org>
Organization: The Dorsai Embassy, New York, NY
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 07:41:25 GMT
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Hi there:

I stumbled across this newsgroup and couldn't resist posting a question 
that I have had for a while.

I have long wondered about the dome shaped 'bee-hive' that is 
traditionally shown in emblems, cartoons, etc. It certainly doesn't look 
like any natural bee-hive that I've ever seen. Is this a stylized 
representation of some sort of artificial hive? Some versions that I've 
seen appear to be woven, like a wicker basket.

Thanks,
<<< Les <<<



From roe@crosfield.co.uk Wed Aug 17 00:30:44 EDT 1994
Article: 698 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!roe
From: roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe)
Subject: Re: Image of Beehive in art
Message-ID: <1994Aug15.123959.3168@crosfield.co.uk>
Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK
References: <CuKG12.Jz9@dorsai.org>
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 12:39:59 GMT
Lines: 37

In article <CuKG12.Jz9@dorsai.org> griffin@dorsai.org (Leslie_Bildner) writes:
>I have long wondered about the dome shaped 'bee-hive' that is 
>traditionally shown in emblems, cartoons, etc. It certainly doesn't look 
>like any natural bee-hive that I've ever seen. Is this a stylized 
>representation of some sort of artificial hive? Some versions that I've 
>seen appear to be woven, like a wicker basket.

You're almost right, Les.  They were made of straw and called skeps.
To protect them from the rain they were often placed under some sort of
cover.  Sometimes recesses in walls called bee boles were used.

I don't know exactly how widespread the use of skeps was.  They were
certainly used by the British and in other parts of the world where
British influence prevailed.  They slowly went out of use after the
invention of removable frame hives in the middle of the 19th century.

What the beekeeper did was to catch swarms in the spring and encourage
them to take up residence in the skeps.  At the end of the summer a few
were put to one side (to provide the swarms for next year) and the rest
of the hives were killed.  Often this was done by placing them over a
fire onto which sulpher had been placed.  Once the bees were dead the
honey comb was cut out and the skeps put to one side until the next
spring.

I believe methods rather like this are still used in some less developed
parts of the world such as Africa (using log hives) but throughout most
of the world removable fame hives have become almost universal.  They
have many advantages although I don't have time to discuss that here.
Indeed, in some countries it is illegal to keep bees in anything but a
removable frame hive.  This is because it is otherwise impossible to
inspect for disease.

-- 
Malcolm Roe                            Phone  :  +44 442 230000 ext 5104
Crosfield Electronics Ltd              Fax    :  +44 442 232301
Hemel Hempstead, Herts. HP2 7RH, UK    E-mail :  roe@crosfield.co.uk 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov Wed Aug 17 00:30:45 EDT 1994
Article: 699 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: rspear@sookit (Richard Spear)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: weak hive?
Date: 15 Aug 1994 15:13:19 GMT
Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory - Pasadena CA
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hi - my two new hives have survived the summer (still raging here in
california), but one of them seems quite weak. the two were started from
five frame nucs ... i've added two honey supers to one of them and the other
has yet to fill the brood chamber. as october/november approaches, i'm a bit
concerned about this weaker hive ... can i take some honey frames (and
bees) from the strong hive and add them to the weak one? anyone have any
other ideas on how to strengthen the weak hive?

regards, richard

rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov



From roe@crosfield.co.uk Wed Aug 17 00:30:46 EDT 1994
Article: 700 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!roe
From: roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe)
Subject: Re: weak hive?
Message-ID: <1994Aug15.171748.5112@crosfield.co.uk>
Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK
References: <32o0mf$s1o@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 17:17:48 GMT
Lines: 24

In article <32o0mf$s1o@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov> rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov writes:
>i've added two honey supers to one of them and the other
>has yet to fill the brood chamber. as october/november approaches, i'm a bit
>concerned about this weaker hive

You can boost the weaker hive but before you do that you should ask
yourself, "Why are the two colonies so different?"  It could be disease.
Inspect your weak hive carefully for brood diseases and mites.  If you
find anything then treat as appropriate.  Another possibility is that
you have a poor queen.  I'll return to that.

Assuming the hive is healthy then transfer a frame or two of brood,
depending on how much is available, from the stronger to the weaker
hive.  Its best to shake most of the adult bees off.  Make sure you
don't transfer the queen!  It's young bees you want at this time of
year to build up for the winter.

If the hive still doesn't thrive then requeening is probably indicated.

-- 
Malcolm Roe                            Phone  :  +44 442 230000 ext 5104
Crosfield Electronics Ltd              Fax    :  +44 442 232301
Hemel Hempstead, Herts. HP2 7RH, UK    E-mail :  roe@crosfield.co.uk 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From altabios@bham.ac.uk Wed Aug 17 00:30:46 EDT 1994
Article: 701 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!pipex!warwick!bham!usenet
From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: honey yields
Date: 16 Aug 1994 12:22:28 GMT
Organization: The University of Birmingham, UK
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X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.80


Just out of interest, what sort of honey yield does everyone else get,
say the average per hive?

I have four working hives this year, the fifth one was a filled in June with
a new swarm. I got a total of 180lb of honey off the four hives and am quite
pleased with myself (and the bees who did all the work). 
How many tons/hive do you get in the States? Everything there being bigger
and better than in the old UK!


From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Wed Aug 17 00:30:47 EDT 1994
Article: 702 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: honey yields
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:10:49 GMT
Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <roadent.519.2E50BAD8@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au>
References: <32qb24$8dg@sun4.bham.ac.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: howitt-b04-01.cc.monash.edu.au

In article <32qb24$8dg@sun4.bham.ac.uk> altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) writes:

>Just out of interest, what sort of honey yield does everyone else get,
>say the average per hive?

WEll, I can't speak for the u.s.a....but here in a.u.s., we can get up to 
100kg per hive over two extractions.  In a good year (or even just an 
ordinary year in the north) it can be much more than this.  Average for me 
is about 15 - 10 kg per hive, but then I have only been extracting once each 
year....
Adrian. (yet another failed attempt at being helpful....)


From mikee@eskimo.com Wed Aug 17 22:50:36 EDT 1994
Article: 703 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mikee@eskimo.com (Mike Koehn)
Subject: Fennel
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Date: Wed, 17 Aug 1994 04:22:15 GMT
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My bees are into the fennel and mint bloom.  Will this ruin the taste of
the honey?  It's mostly blackberry so far.
 
Thanks in advance,
    Mike Koehn


From moroney@world.std.com Wed Aug 17 22:50:37 EDT 1994
Article: 704 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney)
Subject: Re: weak hive?
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In article <32o0mf$s1o@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov>, Richard Spear wrote:
> 
> hi - my two new hives have survived the summer (still raging here in
> california), but one of them seems quite weak. the two were started from
> five frame nucs ... i've added two honey supers to one of them and the other
> has yet to fill the brood chamber. as october/november approaches, i'm a bit

You may wish to consider that you may be better off with one strongish
hive going into winter rather than two weaker ones.  If the hive comes through
winter strong they'll have a good jump on the spring and you will be
rewarded.  Otherwise you may have a weak hive and a very weak (or dead)
hive and get less total honey.

To do this combine the hives.  Remove whichever queen is less desireable
(prob. the one from the weaker hive), or don't bother if you want the bees
to sort things out.  Remove the outer and inner cover from one hive, place
a sheet of newspaper over it (with a couple small holes in it) and place the
other hive body on it.  The bees will chew the paper and slowly get acquainted
in the process.

You can split the hive in the spring if they're doing well/trying to swarm,
and get your two hives back.

However you're from California so therefore don't have the winters we do here,
so maybe they'll do OK anyway.

Regardless be darn sure the weak hive is not diseased before you do anything
that will contaminate the other.

-Mike


From crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net Wed Aug 17 22:50:38 EDT 1994
Article: 705 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Tips on finding queen?
Date: 17 Aug 1994 12:42:50 -0400
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This is my second year of beekeeping and I'm still having trouble
locating the queen.  I know what she looks like, and sometimes when
I am working a hive (I have 4) I will see her, but I can't just 
go into a hive and find her whenever I want to.  This fall I need
to re-queen 2 hives (captured swarms) so I need some tips on how
to find the elusive little lady.
Thanks
 -Steve Crumley  (Louisburg NC)


From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Wed Aug 17 22:50:39 EDT 1994
Article: 706 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Tracheal Mite Samples
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Date:         Tue, 16 Aug 1994 11:04:23 -0400
From: Diana Sammataro <dsammata@MAGNUS.ACS.OHIO-STATE.EDU>
Subject:      Tracheal Mite Samples


To all bee/or bee mite researchers out there:

     I am currently screening tracheal mites from different countries and
     regions of the US to see if DNA patterns are different.

     I would be grateful if some other cooperators would send me samples
     of mites, or infested bees, from colonies that died of mites
     and from those still alive but infested.

     Alcohol samples of mites in the tubes or infested bees is fine, if
     the samples were previously frozen or collected within the past
     year. Bees left in alcohol too long are difficult to find mites.
     However, mite samples within the tubes can be over a year.
     Use 70% EtOH and label all samples
     In addition to A. woodi, A. externis and A. dorsalis would be greatly
     appreciated.

     Thank you for your help. If there are any questions, please write, call or
     email.

     Diana Sammataro
     Dept Entomology
     Ohio State University
     1735 Neil Ave
     Columbus OH 43210 1220

     Phone: 614 292 9089, Fax: 614 292 2180
     Email: dsammata@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu

-- 
============================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   =======


From ez021641@dale.ucdavis.edu Sun Aug 21 21:06:04 EDT 1994
Article: 707 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: ez021641@dale.ucdavis.edu (Son Trinh)
Subject: Yellow Jackets (sp?)
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  I have a hive in my back yard, and everyday, i see there are two or three
yellow jackets hoovering around the hive entrance.  Sooner or later, one of
them will land on a semi-dead bee near the entrance.  Any body has any
idea of what's going on?  I tried to find out what the yellow jacket were
doing, but to no avail.  I also observe that the worker bee drags away
the dead bee beyond my sight. For curiosity sake,  is there any published 
paper on the distance that the worker actually disposed of the dead 
bee??  I would appreciate if you can reply directly to my email acct 
(ez021641@bullwinkle. ucdavis.edu). Thank you for ur help

				An inquiring mind,

				    -ST

 


From killoran@ll.mit.edu Sun Aug 21 21:06:05 EDT 1994
Article: 708 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran)
Subject: Bee disease: preventative vs treatment
Message-ID: <9408181210.PN00869@LL.MIT.EDU>
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Another newbie question from someone who just started this spring!
I've read a bit about the various bee diseases and what to do about
them, but I'm always left wondering how old the information is
(especially in the case of mites) and whether the treatment is
preventative or only used when the problem becomes obvious.  Here's
what I believe - please expand on this info or correct:

There are four problems to worry about:

1 Foulbrood (both American and European)
2 Nosema
3 Varroa mites
4 Tracheal mites

>From reading I think the following is to be done:

1 Feed terramycin in spring and fall to control foulbrood.  It seems
  like this is always present to some degree, but is manageable.

2 Fumidil 'B' for control of Nosema.  Again, spring and fall feedings
  for prevention.

3 Apistan strips when you KNOW you have Varroa mites.  Not preventative,
  but reactive.

4 Extender pattys (vegetable shortening) or Menthol when you KNOW you
  have Tracheal mites.  Not preventative either.

So...  I haven't done anything yet to my bees (the package they came in
had an Apistan strip which I didn't move into the hive).  This fall I
plan to feed both Terramycin and Fumidil 'B'.  As the hive seems very
healthy, I will not treat for any mites.

Am I doing the right thing?  Any other diseases to worry about?  Should
I not treat for anything?  Etc, etc...  I've heard of hives with AFB
being burned and certainly don't want my hive to have to end this way!
Your personal ideas and schedule for disease control would be helpful.

	Thanks,  Mike Killoran
--
Mike Killoran                            Zen says:
killoran@ll.mit.edu                  Cease to do evil,
(617) 981-2667                        Try to do good.


From altabios@bham.ac.uk Sun Aug 21 21:06:07 EDT 1994
Article: 709 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen?
Date: 19 Aug 1994 12:18:03 GMT
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In article <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net>, crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley) says:
>
>This is my second year of beekeeping and I'm still having trouble
>locating the queen.  I know what she looks like, and sometimes when
>I am working a hive (I have 4) I will see her, but I can't just 
>go into a hive and find her whenever I want to.  This fall I need
>to re-queen 2 hives (captured swarms) so I need some tips on how
>to find the elusive little lady.
>Thanks
> -Steve Crumley  (Louisburg NC)


I find it hard to see the queen as well, although I rarely specifically look for her
The queen tends to shun the light so if you keep half of the brood chamber covered
she will tend to be in that half. You can also mark the queen with paint, in the UK
there is a colour coding system so you can tell her age. The paint helps
to find the queen as well. I once spent an hour trying to find a marked queen without
success, put all the frames back in place and while wondering what to do, saw the queen
going over the top of the frames.
The queen is rarely on the outer frames so you can take these out of the hive,
it makes for fewer frames to look through


From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Sun Aug 21 21:06:09 EDT 1994
Article: 710 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Apis Magazine 8/94
Message-ID: <CutF0p.D0A@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Keywords: Apis, beekeeping, bee, sanford, magazine 
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
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Date: Sat, 20 Aug 1994 03:58:01 GMT
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            Florida Extension Beekeeping Newsletter
    Apis--Apicultural Information and Issues (ISSN 0889-3764)
                Volume 12, Number 8, August 1994

                  PERMITTING HONEY PROCESSING

     Dr. Keith Delaplane at the University of Georgia recently
discussed food regulations in his column "Strictly for the
Hobbyist,"  American Bee Journal, July, 1994.  His concern comes
from hard experience.  It seems that a food inspector visited a
store that was buying Dr. Delaplane's honey.  The merchant ceased
doing business because Dr. Delaplane was not licensed by the state.
At first disgruntled by yet another "imposition of government on
agriculture and grass-roots living," Dr. Delaplane has changed his
opinion.  He now urges beekeepers to be proactive on this issue.
Even the smallest beekeepers who sell honey to the public must
comply with facility licensing laws in Georgia.  According to Dr.
Delaplane, "The licensing consists of a permit issued at no cost
following a satisfactory inspection.  Facilities are inspected
quarterly thereafter."

     The above policy used to be about the same in Florida.
However, as of January 1993, the rules have changed.  According to
Florida Statute 500.12, Section 1(a), "A food permit from the
department is required of any person in the business of
manufacturing, processing, packing, holding, preparing or selling
food at retail . . . "  Most of this statement was already in the
old law, but Section 1(b) says "Applications for a food permit from
the department shall be accompanied by a fee to be determined by
department rule, not to exceed $350.  Food permits shall be renewed
annually on or before January 1."  Thus, the time is over when food
processors can obtain free permits.   For small producers (less
than $10,000 in sales), this translates to a fee of $60.00 per
year, according to Dr. John Rychener of the Bureau of Food and Meat
Inspection, Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer
Services.

     Although the strict letter of the law requires all beekeepers
selling honey to the public to obtain permits, there is some
latitude.  Florida employs only eighty-four food inspectors to
oversee the food safety in over 25,000 processing plants and retail
stores.  The occasional small honey producer can be missed,
according to Dr. Rychener.  However, if and when the food
inspection service becomes aware of any person/business without a
permit, it must act.  There is no penalty the first time one is
discovered.  Nevertheless, once contacted by a food inspector, one
must obtain a license which is renewable annually with imposition
of a late fee, if applicable.

     Section 5E-6.008 of the same law provides sanitary regulations
governing manufacture, processing, packing, or other handling of
honey.  They are summarized in Hints for the Hive 106, soon to be
distributed as ENY 106 in the IFAS CD-ROM FAIRS program:

           (1)  HONEY HOUSE.  A honey house is any stationary or
portable  building, including equipment, used for the purpose of
extracting, processing, packing or other handling of honey.

           (2)  FLOORS.  Floors...shall be impervious and easily
cleaned...smooth, in good repair, and kept clean...and if having a
drain, be drained into a septic tank, or cesspool, or be connected
to local sewage disposal facilities.

           (3)  WALLS AND CEILINGS.  Shall have smooth washable
surfaces, be  clean and in good repair.

           (4)  LIGHTING AND VENTILATION.  Shall be adequately
ventilated...permit efficient operations and cleaning of equipment.

           (5)  DOORS AND WINDOWS.  Shall be screened, kept in good
repair, and equipped with bee escapes.

           (6)  WATER SUPPLY.  Shall be properly located,
constructed and operated in accordance with local sanitary
codes...easily accessible and sanitary.

           (7)  CONSTRUCTION, CARE, USE AND REPAIR OF HONEY HOUSE,
CONTAINERS AND EQUIPMENT.  During operation, the honey house shall
be used exclusively for extraction, processing, packing or other
handling of honey and for the storage  of equipment related to the
business of the honey house.  Containers shall be  free of internal
rust, cleaned before reuse...all open equipment should be  covered
when not in use.

           (8)  WATER DISPOSAL.  There shall be an efficient waste
disposal  system.  Toilet facilities, including wash basins, shall
be conveniently  available to honey house personnel.  Toilet rooms
shall not open directly into any room of the honey house.  Toilets
without plumbing shall be at least 75 feet from the
plant...screened and have a self-closing door.

           (9)  STORAGE OF EQUIPMENT.  Equipment shall be stored
free from rust and contamination.

           (10) HEATING EQUIPMENT.  No boiler, oil stove or other
heating  equipment that gives off dust or odor may be used within
the honey house, unless it has proper ventilation...and shall
comply with fire regulations.

           (11) WORKER SANITATION.  Workers shall wear clean and
washable  clothing... keep hands clean, and be provided with clean
and sanitary towels.

           (12) CARE AND HANDLING OF COMBS OF HONEY.  Combs should
be loaded and handled so as to protect them from contamination.

           (13) USE OF HONEY PUMPS.  Before being pumped, honey
shall be strained through a screen of at least eight meshes to the
inch or pumped from a baffled sump tank which provides a constant
supply of honey for the pump.

           (14) CONTAINERS AND STORAGE.  Honey shall not be packed
in  containers which have previously contained pesticide, creosote,
gasoline, kerosine, fuel oil, paint, glue or other toxic
substances.  Storage tanks are to be protected from contamination
and packed honey stored in a clean and sanitary manner.

           (15) PESTICIDE PROHIBITED.  The application of spray
type pesticides  in the honey house is prohibited during
extracting, processing and packing  honey.

        Questions pertaining to Florida honey house sanitation
should be directed to Dr. John Rychener or Mr. Kevin Lufkin, Bureau
of Food and Meat Inspection, Food Safety Division, Department of
Agriculture and Consumer Services, 3125 Conner Blvd., Tallahassee,
FL  32399-1650, Ph. 904/488-3951 or 1-800/HELPFLA, "select or say
6" for Food Safety.

                 HONEY ADULTERATION ON THE RISE

     There is evidence that honey adulteration is approaching
epidemic proportions in Florida and elsewhere.  As in the past, the
prime culprit is high fructose corn syrup (HFCS).  The addition of
HFCS to honey, even in large amounts, is difficult to detect
without laboratory testing.  And occasionally, vendors simply sell
corn syrup as honey.  Any of the above practices renders honey
either adulterated and/or misbranded under the Florida Food Law.

     Many people are concerned about adulteration of honey, but it
is extremely difficult to police.  In a way, honey is its own enemy
in this effort.  The sweet is so healthful that, even when
adulterated, it is not a health hazard.  State and federal
inspectors are stretched to their limits examining high risk foods.
According to Mr. Lufkin of the Food Safety Division, mentioned in
the previous article, there are not enough personnel resources left
to enforce deceptive labelling practices.  Inspectors are focusing
instead on meat, milk and other products that are less forgiving
than honey in their processing.

     "Detection of honey adulteration is the easy part," Mr. Lufkin
says, "Tracking the violators is the constant challenge.  All too
frequently, the trail leads to phantom producers and distributors,
hiding behind false labels and cash transactions."   Only when
enough people contact food inspectors, legislators and other policy
makers with solid information can some effective action be taken.
In the recent past, adulteration was reduced after an especially
blatant case came to trial followed by conviction.  However, the
practice is raising its ugly head again.

     Honey adulteration adversely affects the apicultural industry
by displacing its product in the marketplace.  It also lowers the
price as imports have been accused of doing.  However, at least
most imports are real honey and paying assessment for promotion to
the National Honey Board.  Adulterers reap double benefits:  high
prices for their product, cheaper to market than even the least
expensive imported honey, coupled with no promotional assessment.

     As in the past, the beekeeping industry is the first line of
defense against adulteration.  A "self-policing" program, sponsored
by the American Beekeeping Federation continues to be in effect.
Suspicious honey is tested and, if found adulterated, the
Federation notifies the proper officials and sends a report to the
person who sent the sample for their follow-up.  In spite of the
recent adulterating activity, the Federation is receiving very few
samples.

     Feeding bees sugar syrup and/or HFCS and extracting "honey"
containing these products is also adulteration.  Thus, beekeepers
cannot be too careful.  Even small amounts of adulterants are
detected by tests currently in use.  It is impossible to tell
adulterated honey by either taste, smell or color.  The only real
evidence comes from defined techniques certified by the National
Association of Chemists.  Experience has shown, however, that
adulterated product has one or all of the following
characteristics:

1.  No flavor, just sweet.
2.  Very light or very dark
3.  Molasses flavor
4.  Consistently low price

     In addition to the above characteristics, adulterated honey
has often been associated with "rustic" labels and "Mason" type
jars.  If you see suspicious product, send a sample to the
Secretary-Treasurer, American Beekeeping Federation, P.O. Box 1038,
Jesup, GA 31545, ph 912/427-8447, along with the following
information:


Date ____________________

DESCRIPTION OF HONEY SAMPLE: (include the label or copy the
information on printed label including size of package, brand, name
and address of packer or distributor)
_________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________

Where purchased:___________________________________________

Date purchased:____________________________________________

Code # on Jar or label_______________________

If only the packer's name appears on label, name and address of
distributor:
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________

Reason why honey is suspected of being adulterated_____________
______________________________________________________________

Name and Address of Sender_________________________________

     A fact sheet entitled ENY 103 Honey Adulteration  is available
on CD-ROM and from this office.  It discusses the adulteration
issue and provides the information given above on the American
Beekeeping Federation's "self-policing" program.


Sincerely,



Malcolm T. Sanford
Bldg 970, Box 110620
University of Florida
Gainesville, FL 32611-0620
Phone (904) 392-1801, Ext. 143
FAX: 904-392-0190
BITNET Address: MTS@IFASGNV
INTERNET Address: MTS@GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU

-- 
============================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   =======


From mark@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu Sun Aug 21 21:06:10 EDT 1994
Article: 711 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mark@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (M.C. Rendina )
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What is bee pollen?
Date: 20 Aug 1994 05:10:06 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
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lapointe@netcom.com (Douglas LaPointe) writes:

>First I will apologize for asking such a newbee question, but I 
>could not find my answer in the FAQ.

>I saw bee pollen for sale in a health food store.  Is this pollen 
>that has been harvested by honey bees?  It was touted as being 
>extremely nutritious, "you can live off of this stuff". Is this true?  

As I understand it, its pretty much straight protein.  It's the bees main
(only?) source.  Depending on exactly where it came from it may also have 
a lot of trace elements that you could be deficient in.  

I wouldn't try to live off it, but I do alternate mornings with my vitamin.

Mark


From mark@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu Sun Aug 21 21:06:11 EDT 1994
Article: 712 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: mark@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (M.C. Rendina )
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen?
Date: 20 Aug 1994 05:14:29 GMT
Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana
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crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley) writes:

>This is my second year of beekeeping and I'm still having trouble
>locating the queen.  I know what she looks like, and sometimes when
>I am working a hive (I have 4) I will see her, but I can't just 
>go into a hive and find her whenever I want to.  This fall I need

One tip the state  bee inspector gave me when I was a beekeeping young-un:
The queen has longer legs than the rest of the bees and may stand out 
vertically.  I.e., before you take the frame out, look down at it--if she's
on the open side, she may pop out at you.  Look down from the top.  Got it?
I thought he was crazy, but it did help me spot her a few times.

I really want to get back into keeping.  There's nothing like finding a queen
the size of your pinky filling frame after frame with eggs.

Mark


From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Sun Aug 21 21:06:12 EDT 1994
Article: 713 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Bee disease: preventative vs treatment
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 1994 14:00:03 GMT
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>There are four problems to worry about:

>1 Foulbrood (both American and European)
>2 Nosema
>3 Varroa mites
>4 Tracheal mites

Starvation.
Wax Moth.
Pesticides.


>1 Feed terramycin in spring and fall to control foulbrood.  It seems
>  like this is always present to some degree, but is manageable.


>From what I understand, terramyacin is only effective against EFB, and the 
only "cure" for AFB is to destroy all materials.  In my opinion, it is 
better to destroy the materials anyway, because this stops other hives 
picking up the disease.  It is better to destroy one hive, than to have to 
give extra attention to dozens of "sickies".
Also, in Australia (why do I bother wity this..I'm the only aussie here) 
terramycin is (now...it wasn't five years ago) only available for diagnosed 
cases from a vet. (?!?!? a vet?!?!?!)


>2 Fumidil 'B' for control of Nosema.  Again, spring and fall feedings
>  for prevention.

Making sure you have generaly strong hives is the best solution.  From what 
I understand, and I could be wrong, there is no actual cure for nosema ( I 
would like to be wrong :->  ) but in strong and otherwise healthy hives, it 
dosen't usualy present a problem.  I am not 100% positive here, but I have 
heard that nosema is present in 90% of all bee colonies (or more).


>3 Apistan strips when you KNOW you have Varroa mites.  Not preventative,
>  but reactive.

No comment, because WE DON'T HAVE VARROA IN AUSTRALIA.  (rub...rub....)


>4 Extender pattys (vegetable shortening) or Menthol when you KNOW you
>  have Tracheal mites.  Not preventative either.

No comment...I have never had to deal with tracheal mites either.


>So...  I haven't done anything yet to my bees (the package they came in
>had an Apistan strip which I didn't move into the hive).  This fall I
>plan to feed both Terramycin and Fumidil 'B'.  As the hive seems very
>healthy, I will not treat for any mites.


I wonder....why was the apistan strip in the pakage...as you said, Apistan 
when you KNOW you have varroa mites....surely you would only be shipped 
healthy bees??


If you don't have AFB alredy (and you shouldn't) then mahaging your hives to 
avoid robbers, and to avoid leaving honey and wax (and products thereof) 
lying around where the bees can get to them, then you shouldn't pick it 
up... 

Now,.....I could be wrong in a few of my facts here, and if I am, someone 
please correct me.  and Mike....talk to someone in your own area.  Laws 
change from place to place, and different places also have diferent 
treatments.
I think (and again I could be wrong) that REGISTERED Australian (or at least 
Victorian) beekeepers get recompensed for hives destroyed due to AFB.

Adrian ( hey...I TRIED to be helpful......)


From libby@igc.apc.org Sun Aug 21 21:06:14 EDT 1994
Article: 714 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!sgigate.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!sgi!cdp!igc.org!igc.apc.org!libby
From: Libby Goldstein <libby@igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Date: 21 Aug 94 14:19 PDT
Subject: Re: Fennel
Message-ID: <-2145067290@cdp>
References: <Cunw58.s4@eskimo.com>
Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway <notes@igc.apc.org>
Lines: 9

Our community garden bees do quite a variety of herbs. The early honey has a
lightly herbal (not identifieable as to which herb). The later stuff is much
"fruitier" because of the local raspberries. 

It's all a matter of taste tho. The blackberry honey will probably be darker
than the herb honey. You can separate them separately, taste each one and then
decide if you want to combine them or bottle them up separately.

Libby


From p.kerr@auckland.ac.nz Mon Aug 22 13:26:56 EDT 1994
Article: 715 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!ames!waikato!auckland.ac.nz!NewsWatcher!user
From: p.kerr@auckland.ac.nz (Peter Kerr)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Image of Beehive in art
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 1994 17:06:29 +1200
Organization: School of Music Auckland University
Lines: 23
Message-ID: <p.kerr-2208941706290001@130.216.90.127>
References: <CuKG12.Jz9@dorsai.org>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 130.216.90.127

In article <CuKG12.Jz9@dorsai.org>, griffin@dorsai.org (Leslie_Bildner) wrote:
> I have long wondered about the dome shaped 'bee-hive' that is 
> traditionally shown in emblems, cartoons, etc. It certainly doesn't look 
> like any natural bee-hive that I've ever seen. Is this a stylized 
> representation of some sort of artificial hive? Some versions that I've 
> seen appear to be woven, like a wicker basket.

That would be the old European *skep*, yes woven usually from cereal
straw. The straw was forced through a ring, bound in a sort of loose rope,
then sewn in a roughly curved spiral shape. It made a nice warm shelter
for the small colonies of English and North European bees.

No frames. Very difficult to get honey out without also getting lots of
brood, or destroying the whole hive. Sometimes sticks would be poked thru
near the top to simplify cutting out of combs.

They are illegal now in many places that require moveable frames for
disease control.

-- 
Peter Kerr                               neo-Luddite 
School of Music                          bodger
University of Auckland                   chandler


From wood@kepler.pss.fit.edu Mon Aug 22 13:26:57 EDT 1994
Article: 716 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: wood@kepler.pss.fit.edu (Matt A. Wood)
Subject: evicting bees?
Message-ID: <Cuxyx9.F35@zeno.fit.edu>
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I have some bees that have taken up residence in my house, and while
I'd rather not kill them, I really don't want them living under my
roof (one gets inside every couple of weeks).  Does anyone know
a local beekeeper that might like to come take them to a more loving
home?

Thanks for your help.

--
Matt A. Wood                            Assistant Professor 
wood@kepler.pss.fit.edu                 Dept. of Physics and Space Sciences
(407) 768-8000 (x7207)                  Florida Institute of Technology
http://pss.fit.edu/wood.html            Melbourne, FL  32901-6988


From griffith@aur.alcatel.com Tue Aug 23 23:45:05 EDT 1994
Article: 717 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: griffith@aur.alcatel.com (Mike Griffith)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Beekeeping FAQ - help/advice for beginner
Date: 22 Aug 1994 21:09:54 GMT
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Keywords: beekeeping, bee

Is there a FAQ on beekeeping yet?

I've become medically retired due to Multiple Sclerosis which has 
adversely effected my vision and ended my career in computers.  I
can see well enough for routine hive maintenance, I believe, although
some things like finding the queen will no doubt be quite a pain for
me, I expect. (I've spent a few days working with my brother while
visiting; he has 8 or 10 hives on his farm but he doesn't know what
he's doing very much with his bees yet and he lives several hundred
miles away).

I got interested in bees/beekeeping as a result of investigating
apitherapy (bee sting therapy) as a possible treatment for MS.  I've
pretty well decided that beekeeping would make a very interesting
hobby (I'm about to go nuts since I've had to quit work a few months
ago, as reading printed matter is often very difficult for me).

I was wondering if there is a FAQ on beekeeping that I could access
(I can read my enlarged screen/large text computer screen pretty well)
which would help me get started?

Best regards and thanks,

Mike 

-- 
Mike Griffith, Raleigh, NC          Email: griffith@aur.alcatel.com	    


From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Tue Aug 23 23:45:06 EDT 1994
Article: 718 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen?
Message-ID: <CuyMqJ.2tA@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa.
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Date: Mon, 22 Aug 1994 23:32:43 GMT
Lines: 13

>crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley) writes:
>
>I really want to get back into keeping.  There's nothing like finding a queen
>the size of your pinky filling frame after frame with eggs.
>

 Ha! But do they make honey?
:)
Adam
-- 
============================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   =======


From  Tue Aug 23 23:45:06 EDT 1994
Article: 719 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From:  (Steve Birchall)
Subject: Angry colonies
Sender: usenet@lut.ac.uk (Usenet-News)
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Date: Tue, 23 Aug 1994 11:10:16 GMT
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Several years ago I used to work on a UK honey farm (1500 colonies). Some
of the yards that we had used to be of vicious temperament - this seemed to
be due to the location and not the colonies, as these were cycled round
from season to season. These yards were not fun to work and full kit was
required, whereas a pair of shorts and a veil (optional - the veil that
is!) were all that would be required in a yard a few miles away on the same
day. 
One way around this problem that was employed by the older hands in the
30's thro' to the 50's was to grow  hemp plants on these yards and to keep
dried hemp leaves for burning in the smokers to pacify the bees.
Apparently, this worked well but for obvious reasons the practice was
discontinued when hemp became notorious in more recent years.  


From roe@crosfield.co.uk Tue Aug 23 23:45:07 EDT 1994
Article: 720 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe)
Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen?
Message-ID: <1994Aug23.130930.7403@crosfield.co.uk>
Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK
References: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 1994 13:09:30 GMT
Lines: 56

In article <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley) writes:
>This is my second year of beekeeping and I'm still having trouble
>locating the queen.  I know what she looks like, and sometimes when
>I am working a hive (I have 4) I will see her, but I can't just 
>go into a hive and find her whenever I want to.  This fall I need
>to re-queen 2 hives (captured swarms) so I need some tips on how
>to find the elusive little lady.

The best time to look for the queen is when there are the least number
of other bees present.  Ideally, this means early afternoon on a warm
spring day.  It should be warm both to encourage the maximum number of
bees to leave the hive and to avoid chilling the brood.  (You are likely
to have the hive open for some time.)  The number of adult bees is at a
minimum in spring.  Obviously now is not the best time of year but you
should still try to choose a warm afternoon for the search.

In spite of what people say about where to find the queen, in practice
she can be almost anywhere.  This is because of the disturbance you
have created by opening the brood nest.  If you have a double
brood chamber you'll have to search both boxes.  I take the first
frame out and, after checking for the queen, put it to one side.  This
means I can keep a gap between the searched and unsearched frames as
I work my way from one to the next.  I lift each frame out and the
first thing I do is to run my eyes around the edges to check she isn't
nipping round to the back of the frame.  I then scan the surface of the
comb, turn the frame over, check the edges again and scan the other
side.  I check all frames but pay particular attention to frames with
brood.  The queen moves more slowly and methodically than the workers.
Sometimes you can see the retinue around her but don't count on it due
to the chaos you have provoked by opening the hive.

What happens if you get to the last frame and haven't found the queen?
You go through them a second time.  If you still haven't found her then
it's probably better to give up and try again another day.

A variation on the above that I've sometimes found useful is to use
another brood box (or even a cardboard box) to temporarily hold the
frames after I have checked them.  Sometimes the queen manages to get
onto a 'checked' frame by crossing the gap.  This method prevents her
doing that.

Finally, you can sieve the bees through a queen excluder.  This is
rather brutal but is useful as a last resort.

There is also a method of requeening without finding the queen due
to Nick Wallingford.  If I can find a copy I'll post it here.

I'm a great believer in marking queens.  You've only got to go
through the whole business of finding her once then.  Subsequently
she's so much easier to find.

-- 
Malcolm Roe                            Phone  :  +44 442 230000 ext 5104
Crosfield Electronics Ltd              Fax    :  +44 442 232301
Hemel Hempstead, Herts. HP2 7RH, UK    E-mail :  roe@crosfield.co.uk 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From dharry@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu Tue Aug 23 23:45:08 EDT 1994
Article: 721 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: dharry@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu (David J. Harry)
Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen?
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Date: Wed, 24 Aug 1994 00:20:23 GMT
Lines: 13



>There is also a method of requeening without finding the queen due
>to Nick Wallingford.  If I can find a copy I'll post it here.

I read this method and it sounds very intriguing.  However, you end up with 
the hive contents distributed into three full-depth supers.  It isn't exactly 
clear how Mr. Wallingford consolidates this back into two boxes.  I emailed 
him about his method, but never got a response.  Has anyone tried this?  If 
so, how do you reduce the hive to two boxes?  I'm considering trying this next 
spring on two hives that need requeening.




From roe@crosfield.co.uk Thu Aug 25 22:50:22 EDT 1994
Article: 722 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!roe
From: roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe)
Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen?
Message-ID: <1994Aug24.134357.12376@crosfield.co.uk>
Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK
References: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> <1994Aug23.130930.7403@crosfield.co.uk> <dharry.13.0@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 1994 13:43:57 GMT
Lines: 43

In article <dharry.13.0@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu> dharry@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu (David J. Harry) writes:
>
>>There is also a method of requeening without finding the queen due
>>to Nick Wallingford.  If I can find a copy I'll post it here.
>
>I read this method and it sounds very intriguing.  However, you end up with 
>the hive contents distributed into three full-depth supers.  It isn't exactly 
>clear how Mr. Wallingford consolidates this back into two boxes.  I emailed 
>him about his method, but never got a response.  Has anyone tried this?  If 
>so, how do you reduce the hive to two boxes?  I'm considering trying this next 
>spring on two hives that need requeening.

Reducing the number of boxes is necessary whenever you unite colonies
for whatever reason.  If there are sufficient frames without brood you
can simply take them away and put the rest of the frames back into one
(or two) boxes.  Unfortunately, life isn't usually that simple.  There
are normally too many frames with brood.  In that case it's easier if
you can find the queen - a good reason for marking her.  Put the box(es)
you want to retain plus the queen on the floor.  Put on a queen excluder
and then add the extra brood box(es) followed by any supers.  Arrange
for the box(es) above the queen excluder to include all the frames
without brood, any old or defective frames you would like to take out of
service and then make up the numbers with any other frames.  Come back
in about 3 weeks time and all the brood above the excluder should have
emerged.  You will probably find quite a lot of honey there.  You can
leave that untill it's capped and extract it or use the frames for
making nuclei or re-enforcing weak hives.

What if you can't find the queen?  That's quite likely if you've been
using Nick Wallingford's requeening method!  Well, put all the boxes
together but split them into two with a queen excluder.  (You'll need
another excluder under the honey supers as well.)  Come back at least
4 days later and go through the boxes looking for eggs.  When you find
them you know which side of the excluder the queen is.  You can now
reorganise the hive to get the box(es) with the queen at the bottom
fillowed by a queen excluder, more brood boxes and so on.  Then just
continue as in the first method, above.

-- 
Malcolm Roe                            Phone  :  +44 442 230000 ext 5104
Crosfield Electronics Ltd              Fax    :  +44 442 232301
Hemel Hempstead, Herts. HP2 7RH, UK    E-mail :  roe@crosfield.co.uk 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


From rsrodger@wam.umd.edu Thu Aug 25 22:50:23 EDT 1994
Article: 723 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!rsrodger
From: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu (R S Rodgers)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What is bee pollen?
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 1994 13:19:13 -0500
Organization: University of Maryland College Park
Lines: 32
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References: <lapointeCuEMMs.Do4@netcom.com> <33437e$1tr@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu>
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lapointe@netcom.com (Douglas LaPointe) writes:
>First I will apologize for asking such a newbee question, but I
>could not find my answer in the FAQ.
>I saw bee pollen for sale in a health food store.  Is this pollen
>that has been harvested by honey bees?  It was touted as being
>extremely nutritious, "you can live off of this stuff". Is this true?

The current snake oil from health nuts.  Right up there with "royal
jelly," "shark cartilege" and other absurdities.  In promoting it, the
advertisements generally pander to the same kind of "natural or
mysterious" == "good" notion carried about by so many people.  The
typical ad for bee pollen will claim that it's a "high protein
supplement .. fed to the larvae and responsible for the incredible
life force that makes up the hive."  Almost always it will contain
some reference to un-named (because there aren't any) "trace elements"
which you may be terribly deficient in (this is the general plug,
though, for almost all wacko supplements).

Yeah, it's protein all right.  You could do just as well with protein
from any other source, given how miniscule a dose it contains.  You
have to give them credit for the sales pitches, though.  People are
always looking for _something_ magical.

My particular favorites, though, continue to come from the cosmetics
industry, not the supplements hawkers.  They're improving, though --
the claims about Chromium and "amino acid pills" are particularly
amusing.

--
Previous .sig deleted because some people couldn't parse "from email
_received_ re: a post on comp.sys.powerpc."



From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Thu Aug 25 22:50:24 EDT 1994
Article: 724 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen?
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 94 08:17:26 EDT
Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222
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In article <1994Aug23.130930.7403@crosfield.co.uk>
roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe) writes:
 
>...
>There is also a method of requeening without finding the queen due
>to Nick Wallingford.  If I can find a copy I'll post it here.
>
 
I retrieved a copy of Nick's posting from BEE-L LOG9403 .
/Aa
 
Date:         Sun, 13 Mar 1994 15:08:00 +1300
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@ALBNYVM1.BITNET>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@ALBNYVM1.BITNET>
From:         NICKW@WAIKATO.AC.NZ
Subject:      Requeening without finding the queen
 
Summary:  Description of requeening a hive without having to look
for the old queen.  Variation of an article that orginally
appeared in the Beginners Notes column of the NZ Beekeeper
several years ago.
 
REQUEENING WITHOUT LOOKING FOR THE QUEEN by Nick Wallingford
 
One of the big stumbling blocks for many beginner beekeepers is
that problem of how do you actually get the queen into the hive.
The fundamentals -- the colony should be queenless, it should be
well fed and it should have young bees emerging.
 
How do you actually go about doing it?  Most books tell you
simply to find the old queen, kill her, and introduce your young
queen in the mailing cage she came in.  Fine, you think.  Until
you go out to look through your (strong) (aggressive) (agitated)
colony for the queen.  And knowing that you have your valuable,
newly-arrived queen sitting in the house just waiting to be
installed!
 
So this message will be mostly devoted to giving you a method of
introducing new queens to your hives without ever having to look
for the old queen.  And like any such system, it is not
foolproof.  It works for me and for many other beekeepers, but if
it doesn't for you, first make sure you are following directions.
Then consider special problems you might have, especially as they
relate to the 'golden rules' of queenless, well-fed, with plenty
of young bees.
 
The system I will describe is not new, and it was not my idea.
It's a combination of all sorts of ideas.  Its the sort of
management technique that develops when you have a fair idea of
what you want to do, but you're not sure how.  Then, rather than
just making up your system, you sit back and think about bee
behaviour and try to work effectively within the bounds of the
ways bees will *usually* respond to certain stimuli.
 
The object of the system is to create a nucleus colony on top of
the old colony.  I wanted a system that could be easily used by
hobbyist or commercial beekeeper alike, without ever looking for
the queen.  It should be versatile, both in being able to deal
with colonies of differing strengths and with end results.  That
is, the resulting nucleus, or top, can be used to re-queen with
or to start a new colony.  The method should use a minimum of
extra equipment, and no exotic or complicated gadgets (much as I
like them...)
 
They are based around beekeeping systems that use two full depth
brood chambers for most of the year.  The system introduces a
third box, which is of the same depth as the brood chamber boxes.
After all is complete, you'll want to work this extra box 'out',
especially if you (1) use different depth boxes for
storing/extracting surplus and/or (2) you are particular about
using white comb only (never used for brood rearing) as honey
supers.
 
The only 'extra' piece of equipment needed is a split board, also
known as a division board.  To those of you who may not know what
that is, it is simply a hive mat (inner cover) that has had a
notch cut out of the rim on one side so as to form an entrance
for a colony set above it.  The notch can be anywhere from 20 to
100 mm wide; I prefer to have mine about 50 mm, making it large
enough for a fairly strong unit but still small enough that the
bees can protect it while the colony is still small.
 
I have modified the inner covers on all of my hives in this
manner.  Just to try something new this last autumn, I turned
them over on my hives in an effort to give some sort of upper
ventilation.  I'm not really sure how much good it did.
 
You will also need a queen excluder.  As I have one of these for
each hive as a matter of course, that is no problem. One last
piece of equipment needed will be another box of drawn comb.
 
Now, after all that prelude, let's see how the system works.  For
the sake of beginning, let us assume that it is springtime and
your colony is housed in two boxes and you want to simply
re-queen it.  As you'll see later, you have other options, but
let's start from this basic case.
 
When you open your hive, you'll find most of the brood and bees
in the upper box.  Remove three frames of brood, both sealed and
unsealed, from the centre of the brood nest.  Take a glance over
them first to see if you can spot the queen.  Now that you're
starting on a method that means you don't have to find her, its
amazing how often you will!  Then shake all of the bees off of
them, back into the colony.
 
You needn't shake off every last one of them, so long as you are
sure that the queen is not one of the bees remaining. Now, place
these three frames into the middle of the box of combs you have
brought with you.
 
If there are plenty of stores in the parent colony, take two good
frames of honey, shake the bees from them, and place them in the
new box with the three frames of brood.  If there is not much
honey in the hive, you will have to feed either the parent hive,
the nucleus, or in the worst case, both.
 
Now, you can start to re-build the hive.  Replace all the frames
you have taken from the parent colony with empty combs, doing
your best not to split the brood nest if possible.  On top of
this second box, place the queen excluder.  On top of the
excluder, place the new box containing the brood and honey that
has had the bees shaken from them.
 
Put the lid on the hive and go away.  Think about what you have
just done.  You have lifted brood and bees above the excluder.
What is going to happen to the brood up there?  The pheromones it
gives off will attract nurse bees that are down in the main hive
up to it.  Combining that with the frames of honey, the third box
that you have added has quite a 'pull' to bring bees up into it.
 
But remember, there is a queen excluder between the boxes, so
there is no way the old queen can come up there.
 
After about 20 minutes, if you go back to the hive and lift the
lid, you will find that enough bees have come up into the nucleus
to take care of the brood, defend the colony and take care of
your new queen.
 
All you have to do now is replace the queen excluder with the
division board and presto!  You have your nucleus colony ready
for introducing the young queen.  It is queenless (because the
queen couldn't come up through the excluder).  It has plenty of
young bees (because they have come up to take care of the brood
you lifted).  And it has plenty of food (because you provided
them with two frames of honey).  All the conditions have been met
for ideal queen introduction.  You can expect that some of the
bees will drift back to the main colony, but the young bees
taking care of the brood will most likely remain - the new unit
shouldn't drop in bee strength too drastically.
 
This system could be used on a larger number of hives.  By the
time the beekeeper has worked through the yard, shaking bees from
brood and honey to lift into the new box, the first hive would
have been left long enough for the bees to come up.
 
Introduce your young queen into the top and wait a week. Don't
disturb them in this time if at all possible; until the new queen
is established and laying fully, the bees haven't really fully
accepted her.  Disturb them during this period and it is possible
for them to turn on her.
 
After a week, you will have a parent colony on the bottom, only
slightly reduced in strength by the bees, brood and honey you
took.  And you will have a nucleus colony headed by a young queen
above the split board, all set for your next decision.
 
You can either use it to re-queen the parent colony, or you could
place it on its own floor to use for increasing your colony
numbers.  If you choose the second option, it would be best if
you actually moved it several miles away to avoid the loss of
field strength through drifting.
 
If you want to re-queen the parent colony, you could now go
through it, looking for the old queen, preparing to unite the two
colonies by replacing the split board with a sheet of newspaper
for them to chew their way through. But that would defeat the
whole point, wouldn't it?  We're supposed to be doing this
without ever looking for a queen, aren't we?
 
If you can go through and find the old queen, aided by any
tricks/knacks you might have to quickly locate queens, so much
the better.  You're certain of results then.
 
But, believe it or not, you have the odds of success heavily in
your favour if you simply newspaper the two units together
without looking for the old queen at all.  In almost 90% of the
cases, if you unite two colonies with the young queen on the top
of an old queen, the young queen will be left to head the
resulting hive.
 
Why this happens is open to argument.  Some beekeepers will tell
you that the bees always select the best of the two queens. I
doubt that.  My explanation goes along the lines of the young
queen's bees are confined in the top box when you replace the
split board with newspaper.  As well, her field bees returning
cannot use their normal entrance, the slot on the split board.
They then drift down to the main colony entrance.  As they are
foragers returning with a load, they will be accepted without
causing outrageous fighting at the hive entrance.  I think the
old queen is then probably killed by the 'scissor' effect of bees
foreign to her coming at her from both directions - down as the
bees confined above the newspaper chew through and move down in
the hive, and up by the foragers from the top unit coming in
through the bottom entrance and finding a 'strange' queen in
'their' hive.
 
It has certainly worked for me, and if the thought of trying to
find queens is an impossible one for you, the system might be
worth considering.  You might just want to experiment with it to
see if the time savings will repay the small amount of
uncertainty involved.
 
It's not the answer to all of a beekeepers problems, but it just
gives you an idea how by thinking a little bit about bee
behaviour, you can sort out your management system to make your
life a little easier while doing all you can in the interests of
maximum production.
 
-------------------------------------
          Nick Wallingford
 (East coast, N Island, New Zealand)
     Internet nickw@waikato.ac.nz
-------------------------------------


From hhickman@ess.harris.com Thu Aug 25 22:50:25 EDT 1994
Article: 725 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!jabba.ess.harris.com!hhickman.ess.harris.com!user
From: hhickman@ess.harris.com (H. Harris Hickman)
Subject: Re: evicting bees?
Message-ID: <hhickman-240894122852@hhickman.ess.harris.com>
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Sender: usenet@jabba.ess.harris.com (Usenet News Feed)
Nntp-Posting-Host: hhickman.ess.harris.com
Organization: Harris ESS, Palm Bay Florida
References: <Cuxyx9.F35@zeno.fit.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 1994 17:28:52 GMT
Lines: 28

In article <Cuxyx9.F35@zeno.fit.edu>, wood@kepler.pss.fit.edu (Matt A.
Wood) wrote:

> I have some bees that have taken up residence in my house, and while
> I'd rather not kill them, I really don't want them living under my
> roof (one gets inside every couple of weeks).  Does anyone know
> a local beekeeper that might like to come take them to a more loving
> home?
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> --
> Matt A. Wood                            Assistant Professor 
> wood@kepler.pss.fit.edu                 Dept. of Physics and Space Sciences
> (407) 768-8000 (x7207)                  Florida Institute of Technology
> http://pss.fit.edu/wood.html            Melbourne, FL  32901-6988



Matt

	In the Melbourne phone book there is a "Mac the Bee Man", listed under
BEEKEEPING.  Should do the trick.  By the way, I live on Edgewood, and I'm
thinking about bring some bees down from NC.  Would like to keep them in a
local orange grove.  Any suggestions?

Harris Hickman
HHickman@harris.com


From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Thu Aug 25 22:50:26 EDT 1994
Article: 726 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!univ-lyon1.fr!swidir.switch.ch!newsfeed.ACO.net!Austria.EU.net!EU.net!uunet!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf
From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: Re: evicting bees?
Message-ID: <Cv248H.51M@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa.
References: <Cuxyx9.F35@zeno.fit.edu> <hhickman-240894122852@hhickman.ess.harris.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 1994 20:43:28 GMT
Lines: 17

In article <hhickman-240894122852@hhickman.ess.harris.com>,
H. Harris Hickman <hhickman@ess.harris.com> wrote:

>By the way, I live on Edgewood, and I'm
>thinking about bring some bees down from NC.  Would like to keep them in a
>local orange grove.  Any suggestions?

 Hummm, I"d make sure you get in touch with the FL dept. of Agriculture,
Apiary Inspection before you move bees across state lines.
 It might be highly illegal to bring bees into FL now, I'm not up on the
latest laws, but choosing to ignore them is pretty anti-social and illegal!
:)
Adam 
-- 
============================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   =======


From fisher@lyra.hac.com Thu Aug 25 22:50:27 EDT 1994
Article: 727 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!news.cerf.net!hacgate2.hac.com!lyra!root
From: root@lyra.hac.com (Dave Fisher)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What is bee pollen?
Date: 25 Aug 1994 00:19:41 GMT
Organization: Hughes Aircraft Company
Lines: 21
Message-ID: <33go2t$ejl@hacgate2.hac.com>
References: <lapointeCuEMMs.Do4@netcom.com> <33437e$1tr@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> <HouLkO9RtA$I070yn@wam.umd.edu>
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X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

R S Rodgers (rsrodger@wam.umd.edu) wrote:
: lapointe@netcom.com (Douglas LaPointe) writes:
: >First I will apologize for asking such a newbee question, but I
: >could not find my answer in the FAQ.
: >I saw bee pollen for sale in a health food store.  Is this pollen
: >that has been harvested by honey bees?  It was touted as being
: >extremely nutritious, "you can live off of this stuff". Is this true?

: The current snake oil from health nuts.  Right up there with "royal
: jelly," "shark cartilege" and other absurdities.  In promoting it, the

It may or may not have virtues, but I had an alarming experience with this
substance once.

I ate some "raw" bee pollen about 8 years ago, and instantly lost my
voice.  It returned after about 30 minutes.  Pretty scary, although not
too serious.  

Dave




From jts@snowman.Central.Sun.COM Thu Aug 25 22:50:28 EDT 1994
Article: 728 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!olivea!koriel!newsworthy.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!snowman!jts
From: jts@snowman.Central.Sun.COM (Jim Stewart - Sun Minneapolis SE)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Where do I find a beekeeping suit?
Date: 25 Aug 1994 20:08:11 GMT
Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc.
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Distribution: usa
Message-ID: <33itnb$reu@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM>
Reply-To: jts@snowman.Central.Sun.COM
NNTP-Posting-Host: snowman.central.sun.com

Does anyone know where I can find a beekeeping suit - as in a suit that
you wear that wasps and bumblebees can't sting through?

My house sits on 2.5 acres and I've kept most of it natural with tall weeds.
However, I'd like to start exposing more of the land and keep it cut to a
lawn level.  However, when I was using a weed wacker last spring, I stopped
short of some weeds, since there was a large (8-10 inch) hole that I wanted
to avoid that I assumed belonged to a skunk I had seen wondering around my
land.  The next few days I noticed some bumblebees hovering over the area
and disappearing down into the general vicinity of these weeds.  So, I'd
like to avoid cutting these tall weeds and surprising a nesting group of
bumblebees.  I figure that a bee suit will protect me from getting stung.

Thanks for your help.





From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Sat Aug 27 11:13:03 EDT 1994
Article: 729 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent
From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen?
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 1994 04:05:40 GMT
Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University
Lines: 29
Message-ID: <roadent.536.2E5D6A14@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au>
References: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net>
NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au

In article <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley) writes:

>This is my second year of beekeeping and I'm still having trouble
>locating the queen.  I know what she looks like, and sometimes when

In the discussion I have seen going on along this thread, I have not seen 
anyone mention that it usualy pays to check all the internal walls of the 
hive as well...
The first time I ever searched for a queen, I took out all the frames and 
shook them all of, and didn't find the queen anywhere.
A more experienced beekeeper came and offered his help, and he did exactly 
the same thing, then found her crawling into a corner to hide.  Once all 
the bees were on the wall surfaces rather than the frames, they clustered 
around the queen, making her that little bit more obvious.  One tip here....
don't do it this way with a single....the bees may be inclined to leave if 
all their combs dissapear....:->
I am intending to try the "strainer" method when summer arrives down here...
This requires attatching a Q.excluder to the bottom of an empty super, 
sitting this "strainer" on top of an empty (no frames) super, on top of the 
bottom box of the hive being "strained", with enough space to put in frames 
as they become emptied of bees.
The bees are then shaken from the frames into the empty strainer, and the 
workers will move through the Q.excluder onto the honey and brood below.
The queen, strangely enough, will not fit through the excluder....
:->  Note, the strainer should not be shaken to move the bees through, as 
this (apparently...I can't imagine why) upsets them.
IS THERE A SECTION IN THE FAQ about this????
Adrian (again he tries to be helpful...again the results are debateable)
 


From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Sat Aug 27 11:13:04 EDT 1994
Article: 730 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: I'm a little annoyed...
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 1994 04:48:20 GMT
Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <roadent.537.2E5D7414@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au>
NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au

Well....more than a little...In the "halls of residence" (college dorms, 
call them what you will) where I live, there is a hive of bees (no really?? 
bees???) in the roof.  I offered about three months ago to remove them, but, 
because I am a resident here, I am not allowed on the roof....so they 
declined my offer.
Now there are great clouds of angry bees flying around because someone (I 
assume one of the maintenance men) has put a bag of somthing (presumably 
poison) across the entrance...
Now I ask you, what is more dangerous to the general community...me getting 
up on a flat roof with a two foot high wall all around it to remove the 
bees, OR a whole bunch of very angry bees, no longer only at roof level, 
annoying and (not yet...but it is possible) stining passers by?
I mean, I have been on heaps of sloped roofs without any sort of safety   
"net" so I know I can do it...yet, no doubt most of the people that are 
potential sting victims won't know if they are allergic or not....I wonder 
if a law suit could be pending somewhere...  :-> (yeah...right)

Adrian. (not feeling very helpful at the moment...)



From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Sat Sep 17 22:49:18 EDT 1994
Article: 785 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,misc.test
Subject: Re: test, please reply
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 1994 05:16:49 GMT
Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <roadent.629.2E714141@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au>
References: <34l342$3kl@ionian.scranton.com> <34piln$dml@sun4.bham.ac.uk>
NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-07.cc.monash.edu.au
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:785 misc.test:56851

In article <34piln$dml@sun4.bham.ac.uk> altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) writes:
>From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox)
>Subject: Re: test, please reply
>Date: 9 Sep 1994 11:58:47 GMT

>In article <34l342$3kl@ionian.scranton.com>, dave@lydian.scranton.com (Dave D.
>Cawley) says:
>>
>>        Howdy I'm sending a test mesage, please let me know if you see this.
>>

>yes

test message??? Where????
Sorry...try again.....


From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Sat Sep 17 22:49:19 EDT 1994
Article: 786 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf
From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein)
Subject: sci.agriculture.beekeeping FAQ
Message-ID: <Cvx243.Ix9@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU>
Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Summary: Pointers to Apicultural Information on the Internet 
Keywords: Faq, bees, beekeeping, apis, honeybee, information
Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU
Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa.
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 1994 13:43:15 GMT
Lines: 288




sci.agriculture.beekeeping FAQ

9/10/94

 This is FAQ #4 for sci.agriculture.beekeeping. 
 To have this FAQ archived in news.answers, it needs to be submitted following
 a rigorous template. It is about halfway done. Later this month I'll 
 submit this FAQ. (Adam) (Later...)

 **Note**  Excellent information may be obtained on grease patty use and
manufacture in the latest _Apis_ magazine, available on
sci.agriculture.beekeeping, bee-l, and all the FTP sites.


****** POINTERS TO APICULTURAL INFORMATION ON THE INTERNET ******
 
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* sci.agriculture.beekeeping   Beekeeping, bee-culture and hive products.

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* Entomology World Wide-Web Server at Colorado State University
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* Entomology World Wide-Web Server at Iowa State University
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* sun1.oardc.ohio-state.edu  Anonymous ftp
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* crl.com      Anonymous ftp
                password <your e-mail address>
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* sunsite.unc.edu   Anonymous ftp, gopher, telnet 
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*    ftp.ucdavis.edu    Anonymous ftp
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Questions about accessing these sources may be answered locally or by
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 Please don't be afraid to ask!


* Beekeeping FAQ's (frequently asked questions)

How to USE:

Internet E-Mail a message addressed to:  HINT.103@beenet.com
on subject line put the name of FAQ   :  HONEY ADULTERATION

thats all, you are welcome to add a message.<G> Mail runs are
6am & 6pm.

  FAQ                                           Last update    8-22-94
  name                                                * NEW or UPDATED
_________
HINT.IND        THIS INDEX                                          *

yellow.jacket   How to get rid of them! Adrian Wenner  8/94         *
argentin.ant    Argentine Ant Control   Adrian Wenner  8/94         *
ambee.fed       Info-Joining American Beekeeping Federation
apimon95.txt    Info- APIMONDIA 1995 Meeting
mead.lst        How to join the Mead list mail
bee-l.faq       How to Join the Bee-L list mail & find FAQ's
import.relief   Letter to Congress, William J. Clinton (1994)
usda-bee.lab    Address & Info on Sending Dead bee samples (1992)
formic.txt      Warning on use of Formic Acid by beekeepers (1992)
propolis        Jerry Bronenshenk on PROPOLIS (1993)
4-H.txt         4-H joins the Internet (1993)
FSHEET11        INFORMATION US BEEKEEPING
HINT.101        SOURCES OF BEEKEEPING INFORMATION
HINT.102        HONEY AND ITS USES
HINT.103        HONEY ADULTERATION
HINT.104        FLORIDA BEE INSPECTION
HINT.105        FLORIDA BEARS AND BEEKEEPING
HINT.106        HONEY HOUSE SANITATION
HINT.107        FLORIDA HONEY LABELING REGULATIONS
HINT.108        PRODUCING SECTION (COMB) HONEY
HINT.109        EXHIBITING HONEY
HINT.110        SAMPLE POLLINATION AGREEMENT
HINT.111        SOLAR BEESWAX RENDERING AND HINTS FOR EXHIBITING WAX BLOCKS
HINT.112        EXTENSION APICULTURAL VISUAL AIDS
HINT.113        USING HONEY IN LARGE-QUANTITY RECIPES
HINT.115        GOOD NEIGHBOR GUIDELINES AND ORDINANCES
HINT.116        CHALKBROOD RECOMMENDATIONS
HINT.117        HONEY MARKETING SURVEY
HINT.118        PRODUCING POLLEN
HINT.119        FINANCIAL MANGEMENT FOR BEEKEEPERS
HINT.120        UPWARD VENTILATION
HINT.121        WAX MOTH CONTROL
HINT.122        BEE STINGS AND REACTIONS
HINT.123        EXTENSION APICULTURE IN FLORIDA
HINT.124        FINANCIAL STATEMENTS AND RATIOS FOR BEEKEEPING OPERATIONS
HINT.125        PRESERVING WOODENWARE IN BEEKEEPING OPERATIONS
HINT.126        THE VALUE OF POLLINATION BY HONEY BEES
HINT.127        THE VARROA BEE MITE
HINT.128        INFANT BOTULISM AND HONEY
HINT.129        HONEY JUDGING AND STANDARDS
HINT.130        USING THE HONEY REFRACTOMETER
HINT.131        OBSERVATION BEE HIVES

All HINT's courtesy of Malcolm T. Sanford, Cooperative Extension Service
University of Florida, Gainesville, Fl  e:mail mts@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
*beenet.com is a Information Service for Beekeepers & Friends, operated by
Andy Nachbaur from the Wild Bee's BBS, 209-826-8107, Los Banos, CA
****Thanks to Andy Nachbaur for putting this together.****
Andy would like your talents in expanding this service.
Interested? Write him. E:mail Andy.Nachbaur@beeneet.com


 
  1 -800-356-5941                     P.O. Box 281525
  415-340-3568  (FAX)              San Franscisco, CA 94128-1525 USA

* National Honey Board
  421 21 st, suite 203,
  Longmont, CO  80501 USA
  303-776-2337

* The American Apitherapy Society, Inc.
 P.O. Box 124, Woodsville, NH 03785
  603-747-2507 (V,F)

 *International Bee Research Association
  18 North Rd
  Cardiff CF1 3DY, UK
  F: (+44)222 665522
  V: (+44)222 372409 (24 hrs)


 * Mead lovers list:
mead-lovers-request@eklektix.com   mead mailing list (subscribe, unsubscribe,
etc)
mead-lovers@eklektix.com (to send message to all current
mead-lover subscribers)
	
* The Mead Association
 P.O. Box 4666
 Grand Junction, CO 81502
 1-800-693-MEAD
 outside US 303-442-9111 

* Mead book list: for a good list of books on mead mail: jkl2@Ra.MsState.edu 
 ask for book list.


***** Printed Beekeeping Reference Sources ******

* For an extensive list of Australian beekeeping references e:mail
adent@deakin.edu.au 

* For British beekeeping references and general British bee information,
e:mail roe@crosfield.co.uk

* Sheila A. Lafferty, librarian/archivist at uconn. handles the _ Hewitt
Apicultural Collection_ containing both books and periodicals. 
Write her for a bibliography, e:mail: wbladmo3@uconnvm.uconn.edu
Or obtain the bibliography via gopher: uconn.edu /libraries/waterbury 
(although this wasn't working when I tried it--adamf)


***** Specialists *****

* John Mcghee, VA Dept of Agriculture Apiary Inspector wishes questions from,
 and has a list of resources for *beginning beekeepers*.  He will focus on
 practical management and the first years for beekeepers.
  e:mail  mcghee@hopper.itc.virginia.edu

 * Dr. Rick Fell, Apiculture/Entomology professor and researcher at VA Tech
is available for questions, comments and queries.         
e:mail  rfell@vt.edu

 * Dr. Adrian Wenner, Biology professor and researcher at UCAL SB has
available information on Yellow Jacket Control.
e:mail wenner@lifesci.lscf.ucsb.edu 

* For historical bee lore questions (bees knees), and bee lore info
write Warner Granade, Librarian at UVa.
e:mail jwg2y@poe.acc.virginia.edu

* Pollen Information, including pollen production and pollen usage is 
available from Rob Bidleman.
e:mail robbee@crl.com or Anonymous FTP crl.com (see previous section on FTP
sites) 



If anyone would like to "keep" a list of beekeeping references,
making it available to other beekeepers on the internet,
send us your e:mail address and ideas. This will save space on the FAQ.
We need experts to answer questions
and curate specialized apicultural information sites on the internet.

* BOMBUS
 A mailing list dedicated to Bumblebees!!
 To subscribe, send a message to bombus-request@csi.uottawa.ca.
 To send a message to everyone on the list, mail it to
 bombus@csi.uottawa.ca.
 The Bombus list is maintained by Chris Plowright
 (plowright@csi.uottawa.ca)




  FAQ List
 The following list of frequently asked questions was compiled by 
 Rick Hough (rshough@tasc.com)  Thank you Rick for a fine job.


Folks? Please answer some of these questions if you can find time.
(you'll get your name in the FAQ!)

  Why did my beehive die?
  What is the difference between Honey Bees and other stinging insects?
  How do I recognize a honey bee?
  Why do Bees Sting?
  What Should I do if there are bees flying all around me?
  What is the best treatment for a bee sting?
  What about allergic reactions?
  Is it true that all bees/honeybees will more likely attack things that
  are tall/dark/furry-hairy/smelly (what kind of smells?) ?
  What is an African Bee, and how do I recognize it?
  Why are African Bees called "Killer Bees?"
  Are African Bees really dangerous?
  Do I have to worry about African Bees? (will African Bees be moving into
  my neighborhood?)
  How far north will the "killer Bees" get, and when?
  Bibliography of children's books on bees.
  Bibliography of beekeeping texts.
  Bibliography of biology (habitat, parasites, etc.)
  Protective gear.
  Finding Queens.
  Regulatory and research people and their addresses.
  AHB Progress and news.
  What is the National Honey Board?
  How do I find a local beekeeper?
  What is a swarm -are they dangerous
  Are their different races of honeybees? What are they and how do they
  differ?
  Supering.
  Honey Production.
  Queen Rearing.
  Social Order.
  Lore.
  Bee Deterrent?
  Swarm removal.


   Thanks,

Rick   rshough@tasc.com

Adam   adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu
-- 
============================================================================
 Adam Finkelstein   adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu     adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     
===============================================   |Bees To Please|   =======


From sid@netcom.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:23 EDT 1994
Article: 787 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!netcom.com!sid
From: sid@netcom.com (Kerwin S. Van Gelder)
Subject: BEES1.GIF
Message-ID: <sidCvxKFJ.16I@netcom.com>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 1994 20:18:55 GMT
Lines: 3690

This is a picture of bees. This is also my first post to this group. 
Please let me know if this picture doesn't turn out.

I am also doing a research paper on the "Killer Bees" and am looking for 
information (papers, sources, books, etc.) if anyone can help, please let 
me know.

section 1 of uuencode 5.25 of file bees1.gif    by R.E.M.

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