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Re: [nafex] frost

   It is recommended that Hardy Kiwis in frost areas be planted on the north 
side of buildings. I have started this a few years ago. This spring I went 
out to dig up some layered kiwis, and took them over to my new area on the 
north side of a building where I have some planted. I especially was moving 
a Cornel male Kiwi. The ground there was still frozen solid. So I put the 
plants in my old bark chip pile for a couple weeks.
   The building is a one car garage that I moved across the field where they 
were going to tear it down for a new house and garage. So when the kiwis are 
grown they are in the sun at the top.

----Original Message Follows----
From: jhecksel@voyager.net
Reply-To: nafex@yahoogroups.com
To: nafex@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [nafex] frost
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 07:57:12 -0400

Hello all:

I had personal conversations with Jim Mat???? the former Cherry Interest
group chairperson on this issue.  He suggested a heavy mulch of straw.
If memory serves, he said that one could delay budbreak by keeping the
ground cool/cold longer into the spring.  I have no reason to doubt him.

Cherries, apricots, plums and peaches have thin, dark bark.  Dark colors
absorb more radiant heat.  The worst situation is a 30 F (-1 C) day,
snow on the ground and sun.  Then a 10 F night.  I have often
encountered sunscald damage part way up the trunk, on one side only.
Yup, you guessed it, the south-west side.  The other thing about dark
colors is that they are also more efficient at losing heat by
radiation.  That is, they get colder on clear nights than a light
surface would.  Bob Purvis noted that his black poly irrigation tubes
would *freeze* on clear nights at 41 F (5 C)!

Driving around south-central Michigan I see old cherry trees (both sweet
and tart) on the north and east sides of old, hip roof barns.  Many
advantages.  Shade reduces freeze/thaw/freeze damage due to sun
loading.  North side is definitely cooler in spring so budbreak is
delayed.  Do not know if trees were intentionally planted there or if
they were planted in many places but only survived on north and east
sides.  Tree survival involves two aspects.  The tree has to survive the
biological stresses.  It also has to avoid being culled by owner.  Trees
on shady side survived both hazards, so draw your own conclusions.

One technique worth considering is to mimic the trees natural habitat.
That is, plant the plum trees close together to mimic a thicket
(advisable for pollination of Japanese and hybrid plums).  Or plant a
bramble bushes around the cherry and apricot trees to shade the trunk
and root zone.  This method will appeal to some people.  Others will
think it is too untidy and casual for their taste.  Your call.

Good luck, Joe in Eaton Rapids Michigan.  Rain.  65 F.  5 new lambs born
Thursday, maybe more today.  Strawberry and blackberry plants waiting to
be planted.  Apricot blossoms in balloon stage.

carolyn wood wrote:
 > With all the frozen fruit being reported, I am remembering a photo of 
 > Chinese farmers working in a kiwi "orchard." The rather large trunks were
 > wrapped in some white material and I assumed it was to help keep the 
 > dormant longer.
 > Has anyone studied this practice and might it be of use with apricots and
 > cherries?
 > My apricot trees are to be ornamental for the fourth year in a row.
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