Subject: Re: [SANET-MG] Putting the carbon back: Black is the new green

From: John Cowan <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 11:37:39 -0700

I have been experimenting with "charcoal" this year after reading ALL 
the books about Terra Preta, reading ALL the information on at Eprida 
http://www.eprida.com/home/index.php4 plus other information on the web 
such as at Cornell.

According the Eprida, the proper charcoal means heating suitable organic 
materials to about 400 degrees C. (750 degrees F.) without oxygen. 
Volatiles, hydrogen and water are outgassed. These gases can be used in 
a variety of ways. The charcoal is ground to 30-45 mesh. They also have 
developed a process to saturate it with ammonium bicarbonate using 
recycled gases.

My focus has been on enhancing microbiological activity and nutrient 
holding capacity in the soil. If you add some charcoal to quality 
finished compost or worm castings you will get obvious enhances 
microbiological activity as seen by doing a simple water extraction 
after one day of culturing and looking at it under a microscope.

Enhanced nutrient capacity occurs because the carbon matrix of the 
charcoal starts taking on "functional groups" and hence forms a type of 
humus that increases the CEC.

Here is how I have produced the charcoal "fertilizer" in small 
quantities:  Grind commercial "lump" barbecue charcoal (Cowboy, Royal 
Oak, etc.) to a fine powder. Do not use brickettes. I run it through an 
old meat grinder then put small amounts in an electric coffee mill. Mix 
charcoal powder with equal parts by volume fine sifted compost or worm 
castings. According to the charcoal weight, add 5% high quality fish 
meal, krill meal or other quality protein meal. Avoid solvent-extracted 
meals. Add sufficient water (non-chlorinated) usually about 1/2 the 
charcoal volume. Mix throughly. It should be wet, not mucky. Usually I 
work the mixture through a 1/4 inch hardware mesh to fluffy it up and 
cut up any lumps. Let sit in a plastic bucket for a week maybe with a 
loose cover in dry climates. Actineomyctes (sp?) smell will replace the 
protein smell in a few days and some white specks should develop.

Small quantities of this product can show a noticeable improvement in 
plant appearance and growth/production. Apply to the soil surface and 
water in. I will not go into my exact experiences but I have been 
organic gardening for decades and have experience with a wide range of 
organic fertilizers and amendments. I have never seen anything quite 
like it.

If you have questions about what I have mentioned I would invite you to 
reply to me personally or to the list.

Thanks,

John Cowan

********************************************************
To unsubscribe from SANET-MG:
1- Visit http://lists.sare.org/archives/sanet-mg.html to unsubscribe or;
2- Send a message to <[email-masked]> from the address subscribed to the list. Type "unsubscribe sanet-mg" in the body of the message.

Visit the SANET-MG archives at: http://lists.sare.org/archives/sanet-mg.html.
Questions? Visit http://www.sare.org/about/sanetFAQ.htm.
For more information on grants and other resources available through the SARE program, please visit http://www.sare.org.

---

From: John Cowan <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 11:37:39 -0700

Thanks,

John Cowan

---

From: John Cowan <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 11:37:39 -0700

Thanks,

John Cowan