Re: nematode suppression with Sudan Grass

From: Elaine Ingham (Soilfoodweb@AOL.COM)
Date: Wed Jan 22 2003 - 06:04:51 EST


Based on research done at Oregon State University, you have to know which root-feeding nematodes you have, and then you have to choose the correct cultivar of sudan grass in order to make sure it can influence the pest.

The broad generalization that sudan grass suppresses all root-feeders is flat out wrong. There's more specificity than that. You need to know which pest you have to figure out which plant might work. And suppression by a cultivar is limited to very specific nematode sub-species, not a range of them. To learn about which sudan grass cultivar suppresses which root-feeders, please contact Dr. Russ Ingham at Oregon State University, or read his more recent scientific papers, most of which are in the Journal of Nematology.

But there are other approaches you might want to consider.

We've reduced root-feeding nematodes to below detectable levels quite a few times by establishing myycorrhizal fungi, beneficial fungi and bacteria, and beneficial nematodes on the roots of orchard trees (work done in New Zealand), on turf grass (work done with R. Brandel in Philadelphia, for example)and on grape vines (work done with Helena Chemical Co).

This work is of course anecdotal because it was done with growers, in fields, not replicated plot work. Take this as the observation phase of the scientific method. We have observed that, over and over, by getting mycorrhizal colonization, beneficial bacteria and fungi (the nematode trappers), and nematodes that compete with root-feeders (bacterial-feeders, fungal-feeders and predatory nematodes), root-feeding nematode numbers drop below detection levels.

Mycorrhizal fungal inoculum is available from several sources, but there are one or two really top-notch sources in the US.
We've tested them, check our website for information.

Beneficial bacteria and fungi are present in aerobic, properly composted material. The compost cannot stink, cannot have bad smells. If it has bad odors, it is not compost and will not contain the beneficial aerobic bacteria and fungi that you need to interfere with root-feeding nematodes.

Beneficial nematodes, the bacterial-feeders, fungal-feeders and predatory nematodes are a bit more difficult to find. They can be in good, aerobic compost - they do not tolerate or survive in stinky, smelly organic matter. If it is putrid, the beneficials will not be there. So you have to find a source of well-made compost. Again, we list good composts on our website, so you can see whether they have the sets of organisms that you need in the compost.

There is an inoculum of beneficial nematodes available on the market that is supposed to combat some of the root-feeding nematodes, but I have seen no data on this product. I can't tell you if it works or not. Anyone else have experience with it?

Hope this helps.

Elaine Ingham
President, Soil Foodweb Inc.
Corvallis, OR
Port Jefferson, NY
Lismore, NSW, Australia
Hilversum, The Netherlands
www.soilfoodweb.com

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