Mike Daniels,
Correction to last post 100 mesh equals 141
micron.
According to "Drip Irrigation" by Netafim Australia
following is what to do.
1. Flush all mains and submains and divide
irrigated are into smallest plots and treat individually
2 Check pumping rate. required dose of 30% phos
acid is 1 litre per cubic metre of discharge.
3 Test max discharge of inject pump (or venturi)
use only injectors etc that are acid resistant.
4 Prepare volume of solution equal to one tenth the
hourly discharge rate of the injector pump ( or venturi etc).
CAUTION add acid to water
never water to acid.
5 Start injector with irrigation system
operating.
6 Check pH at the furthermost lateral with
meter or litmus paper. The required pH is 4.0.
7Continue irrigation for 30 to 60 mins. The
irrigation should then stop and water left in the lines for about one
hour.
8Flush the whole system.
Example of calculation
required.
Pump discharge 20m3per
hour
Injector pump rate 250 litre per
hour
Acid required (1Lper m3) 20
litres
total solution required 250 + 10 =25 litres
Therefore add 20 litres of acid to 5 litres of
water to make up to the 25 litres.
The phos acid is Tech grade 95% (or is it 85%) phos
acid available in 200 litre drums. Cost around $1.20 a litre??
Regards Mike Harvey
New Life Soils www.composttea.com.au
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2003 5:30
AM
Subject: Re: [compost_tea] drip
irrigation
Mike,
Is the phosphoric acid dosed or added using a venturi system?
What concentration of phos acid and is it foodgrade?
Regards,
Ron, Great
question Ron, this is something that has huge potential. Some points for
consideration, based on Australian drip irrigation systems. Filtration
sytems are usually 100 mesh (100 micron) this is very fine and will
filter out Fungi that has been allowed to grow out to reasonable
size. That is for our brew 24 hours at 28deg C down to 22dec C, this is
too long as the fungi grow out to a size that will be filtered out. (You
may be able to use a coarser filtration system more suited to larger
openings in the water sprayers you use) I spoke to the folks at SFI
Australia and they advised me to use a short brew time, more like 10
hours, long enough to activate and begin growing the fungi etc but not so
long that the fungi will block filters. I have been doing this since and
have had no trouble with it going through systems. Phosphori c acid can
be used to clean irrigation systems, the acid will disolve organic matter
in the lines and the phos acid will supply some phosphorus to the plants
(it will of course kill MO where it drips) ask your irrigation supplier
for more details.This is usually done once a year if required. As with
other fertigation systems always pressurise the system fully
before injecting and then ensure enough water passes through the system
to flush all material out. My experience is that liquid fish should
not be used in an irrigation system as it will tend to block things.
Molasses, Humic acid, and AACT are more suited. Regards Mike
Harvey New Life Soils, www.composttea.com.au
----- Original
Message ----- From: "nehemiahlev"
<nehemiah@twelvetribes.com> To:
<compost_tea@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2003
1:37 AM Subject: [compost_tea] drip irrigation
>
Hi, > I think this subjec t might have been addressed before but I
can't > find anything in the archives. I am setting up an irrigation
system > for a small nursery that will be using compost tea. Does
anybody have > any input on keeping drip irrigation lines clean. What
products can > be used that won't effect the organisms? There is also
have a fairly > high sulfur content in the water. Will this affect the
microbes and, > if so, is there a way to deal with it? I am also
needing info on > pumps that would be appropriate, for this type of
application, that > would handle, the tea and other organic
fertilizers. Thanks > Ron > > > > To
unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: >
compost_tea-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > Your
use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >
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