. .' ...$raspberry.growing+research. raspberry.faq.wild-blueberry.faq.Dr.Razbys.Berry-News/public/ftp/pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture/fruit/faqs Dr.Razbys-berry-info The-Mighty-Lingonberry.by-R.E.Gough blueberry.faq fruit-tree-grafting.faq.1-95 fruit.tree.grafting.faq rare-fruit.faq tangerine-mandarin.faq tangerine.faq tangerine.faq.new Date: Sat, 1 Oct 94 19:33:00 -0600 From: Bob Batson Subject: Lingonberry Article - The Mighty Lingonberry by Robert E. Gough (_National Gardening_; Vol 17, No 4, Jul/Aug `94) (180 Flynn Ave., Burlington, VT 05401) (Tel: 802-863-1308; Fax: 802-863-5962) If you live in the North and are searching for a new and unusual crop or landscape plant, consider lingonberries. These plants thrive in moist, acidic soils from Massachusetts to Alaska, producing an abundance of healthful, cranberry-like fruits. The lingonberry is a 12- to 18-inch-high evergreen shrub native to northern temperate, boreal and arctic regions of Europe and North America. In addition to inherent cold-hardiness (to -10 degrees F.), once covered with insulating snow, it survives northern winters from New England to Minnesota. In fact, it's one of those few fruits that gardeners can grow successfully in those cold climates. In warmer climates, such as zones 9 and 10 [USDA], lingonberry neither grows well nor reliably survives summer. Lingonberry plants spread by underground runners to three feet . The glossy, dark green leaves are 1/8- to 1/2-inch long and usually tinged red when new. This shrub is handsome enough for ornamental use --- as a small-scale ground cover or informal edging around larger acid-soil plantings, for example. It is also attractive in containers. The wild North American species of lingonberry, Vaccinum vitis-idaea var. minus (also called the mountain cranberry) is a low-growing plant that blooms only in the spring; the European and Asian native, V. v. var. majus, is a slightly taller shrub with larger leaves and flowers. It blooms twice each season. Also called cowberry or foxberry, it's the type more commonly found at nurseries. Dan Hartmann, of Hartmann's Plantation in Grand Rapids, Michigan, notes that this potential for a double crop is part of what makes these plants attractive. Small, pinkish white, lily-of-the-valley-like blossoms open in tight clusters near the tips of one-year-old shoots and make an attractive display in border plantings. The may bloom produces fruits that ripen in midsummer (July and August here in northern Maine). The summer bloom, which occurs when fruits from the first bloom are ripening, produces fruits that ripen in late September and October. Open flowers are only hardy to about 30 degrees F. [-1.1 degrees C.], meaning the first bloom is usually nipped by a late frost. The second crop is usually the largest and often the only the only one of the season. This is not as bad as it sounds, however. In my experience, fruits that ripen in the cooler temperatures of fall generally have the best color and flavor. Lingonberries are self-pollinating, but cross-pollination will produce larger fruits that ripen earlier. Besides, mixing fruit of several varieties will tickle your palate with all the fine, tart nuances of lingonberry flavor. Bumblebees are the best natural lingonberry pollinators. Plants need two to three years to begin bearing good crops, according to Diana MacKentley of St. Lawrence Nurseries in Potsdam, New York. But when the time comes --- usually just in time for Thanksgiving --- better have your recipes ready. Lingonberries are slightly smaller than cranberries but otherwise look and are cooked the same. Flavor, however, is distinct. Pick the firm, deep red fruits and refrigerate immediately; sound fruit will keep for up to three weeks. Or wash, drain and freeze them for use later in the season. These fruits are tart. Make them into jam for a superb roast goose and venison topping. Pancakes covered with lingonberry syrup are a Swedish tradition. Use them in any recipe that calls for cranberries. Lingonberries are very rich in vitamin C --- Scandinavians and native tribes of northern Canada use the fruit as a cold remedy. The simplest preparation is lingonberry sauce: 3 cups washed fruits, 1.25 cups sugar and 1 cup water. Boil 10 minutes; skim and cool. PLANTING AND CARE Locate your planting in a sunny spot on land with good air circulation and soil drainage. My lingonberry garden has a southeastern exposure. It receives sun most of the day and yet is protected from the brutal northwest winds of winter by a thick blanket of drifted snow. The plants grow well in the acid soils of our region. The ideal is soil of ph 5 that is also high in organic matter. According to research by Dr. Elden Stang, professor of horticulture at the University of Wisconsin, plants grow best when up to about seven pounds of peat moss is incorporated into each 100 square feet [9.29 square meters] of row. Adding more does not increase plant growth substantially. Dr. Stang's research plots were located on a loamy sand soil. In your garden, work in the peat moss or compost and adjust the pH during the fall prior to spring planting. Order your plants early in either two-inch or one-gallon pots. Set them out after danger of severe spring cold has passed and the soil has dried sufficiently to be worked. In my garden, on the border of [USDA] zones 4a and 3b, that's late May. Make the planting hole wide enough to accommodate all the roots without bending and set the plants as deeply as they grew in the pots, about 12 inches apart in rows spaced about 36 inches apart. Water them thoroughly to settle the soil about the roots. By the second season, the plants will begin to spread, sending up shoots increasingly distant from the crown. In this respect, their growth habit resembles that of another cousin, the lowbush blueberry. The aim is to establish a hedgerow about 18 inches in width. MULCH. According to MacKentley, weeds are the single biggest pest of small lingonberry plants. The best prevention is a two- to three-inch-deep mulch of sawdust, pine needles, chopped straw or peat moss that smothers young weeds. Otherwise, there is little the home gardener can do but pull them by hand and risk injuring the shallow roots of the new plants. Mulched plants produce stronger growth and up to quadruple the yields of unmulched plants. Peat moss is far superior to sawdust or chopped straw, probably because it simulates the lingonberry's natural soil environment. Place it a couple of inches deep around the young plants right after planting, and increase the thickness of this layer each year as the plants grow in height. Several inches of damp peat moss makes a wonderful mulch for mature plants, and the plants' rhizomes will actually spread through its lower layers. FERTILIZER. Lingonberries require little fertilizer. In fact, excessive nitrogen will overstimulate vegetative growth and decrease fruitfulness. It may also interfere with hardening and increase winterkill. How much is enough? If shoot growth seems vigorous and new shoots grow several inches [5+ cm.] and remain erect and rigid, fertility is about right. If growth is soft and rampant, with large dark green leaves, you have overfertilized. If shoots are short and foliage is pale yellow or red during the growing season, plants need some fertilizer. In the North, I make it a rule to apply no fertilizer to fruit plants after the Fourth of July. Most woody plants have completed shoot growth by then, so the fertilizer will do little good. It could, however, stimulate excessive late growth that may not harden in time for winter. Generally, a small handful of a complete fertilizer, such as 5-10-10, applied in a circle around a mature plant in the early spring, will be sufficient. Use smaller amounts for plants up to about three years old. Fish meal or dried blood are good organic nitrogen sources, but be sure to apply them very early in the spring. Precise amounts depend upon the site and vigor of the plants. If you pay enough attention to them, the plants will always tell you what to do. Lingonberry, like its cousins, is sensitive to chlorides. Keep de-icing salt, water from chlorinated pools and fertilizers containing potassium chloride away from them. Propagate plants in spring by splitting and separating a crown and transplanting clumps. It helps older plantings that have become crowded and unproductive. Plunge your spade deep, severing the plant's root system and rhizomes. Lift the plant portion gently and transplant to another area. That's all there is to it. The only trick is to be sure that you leave part of the rhizome attached to the clump. Without it, the plant will not spread rapidly. Except for the occasional removal of dead and damaged shoots every spring, lingonberries require no pruning VARIETIES OF LINGONBERRY ERNTESEGEN. Introduced in 1981, this is a very vigorous grower producing exceptional crops of large, light red fruits. It's mild-flavored, in contrast to tart and tangy Koralle. KORALLE. This Dutch variety is the most popular and provides most European commercial production. Attractive plants are upright and vigorous. The small to medium-sized fruits are highly flavored but somewhat tart. Often fruits of Koralle are blended with those of a more productive but mild-flavored variety such as Sussi. RED PEARL. This recently introduced (1983) Dutch variety produces large, mild-flavored fruits and appears to have resistance to Phytophthora root rot. Fruits ripen one to two weeks earlier than Koralle. REGAL. Selected by Dr. Elden Stang from seed collected in Finland, Regal is noted for its superior fruit size and early bearing. SCARLET. This new Norwegian introduction produces some fruit but is mostly noted for producing abundant pollen, which makes it a valuable pollinator. SUSSI. This Swedish variety is slow to establish but ultimately produces large red fruits abundantly. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Mon Jul 18 13:28:14 EDT 1994 Article: 38676 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: LFWILK Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Blueberries FAQ: Diseases,Pests,& Solutions Date: Mon, 18 Jul 94 00:06:33 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 106 Message-ID: <5QzxinB.lfwilk@delphi.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1g.delphi.com BLUEBERRIES: DISEASES/PESTS & SOLUTIONS (FAQ) I'm just a novice, but I recently bought a house in New England that has 155 blueberry bushes on the property, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can about them. Before he left for the Pacific Northwest (to plant a cherry orchard), the previous owner (a very active 90-year-old with a real talent for gardening) gave me a few lessons on how to care for the blueberries (as well as the apples, peaches, plums, apricots, self-pollinating vegetables, herbs, roses, and several varieties of flowers on the property). He also gave me some articles and information he had collected on the subject. I thought I'd pass along the information that I've accumulated to-date. An excellent reference book on planting, caring for, harvesting, and using blueberries (as well as strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, cranberries, huckleberries, boysenberries, gooseberries, currants, etc.) is: "The Berry Book" by Robert Hendrickson, published in 1981 by Doubleday & Company, Inc./Garden City, New York. ISBN-0-385-13589-0. The following list of diseases/pests & solutions is a consolidation of information from: (1) primary sources are Robert Hendrickson's "The Berry Book" and his article "Blueberry Fields Forever" published in the July 1984 issue of "Country Journal"; (2) William Kreutzfeld 's article "Blue Magic" published in the August 1987 issue of "National Gardening"; (3) some tips provided to me by Mr. Eric Mattson (the 90-year-"young" gardener who has had lots of successful experience with fruits and berries); and (4) a few things from my limited experience with blueberry gardening. BLUEBERRY DISEASES/PESTS & SOLUTIONS 1. BIRDS - Birds love to eat blueberries and may even feast on your entire crop if you don't cover them with netting or use some other means to protect them. Mr. Mattson provided me with some plastic netting which seems to be effective and still allows sunlight to reach the plants. Be careful about leaving openings in the netting though, because birds may get through the opening and end up getting trapped inside the netting, become frantic, and possibly even die. 2. YELLOW LEAVES - Indicates problem with soil pH and/or drainage. Blueberries need acidic soil conditions and good drainage. Adjust the soil pH. Pine needles spread at the base of the blueberries seem to help with pH, drainage, and minimizing weed "takeovers" :-) Robert Hendrickson suggests applying iron chelate to the soil. Some people use miracid. 3. SHRIVELLED BERRIES - Indicates potential fungus disease. Berries shrivel, may turn purple or brown, and/or shoot tips die. Overfertilizing and/or using fertilizers with high nitrogen content creates an environment susceptible to some fungal diseases. All affected growth should be pruned to prevent the disease from spreading. Fungicides can also be used as a control. 4. ROTTING BERRIES - Potential causes may be fruitworms (small red worms that feast on berries) or fruit fly maggots which infect and rot the berries. Dusting berries with rotenone when they start turning blue helps prevent infections from fruit fly maggots. Robert Hendrickson also suggests controlling fruitworms organically with Beauveria bassica (a parasite fungus). William Kreutzfeld says that blueberry maggots and fruitworms are more common in Michigan, New Jersey, Maine, and North Carolina. Blueberries should not be left on the ground beneath the bushes (fruit fly larvae can survive the winter and infect the next season's blueberries; also, infections/diseases/parasites can be spread via the dropped blueberries). 5. FEW OR NO BERRIES - Potential causes include: overfertilizing, too much nitrogen in the soil, and/or inappropriate pruning. Another possibility is the viral infection "stunt disease" (typically spread by insects from nearby wild blueberries that are infected), which causes small leaves, few berries, and very little plant growth. Infected plants must be removed and destroyed (to keep from spreading the infection to other bushes). 6. BERRIES TOO SMALL - May be characteristic of the particular variety of blueberry, or the result of insufficient pruning. 7. ATTACK OF THE "LEAF-EATERS" - Aphids, leafhoppers, caterpillars, gypsy moths, and japanese beetles are potential culprits. Robert Hendrickson recommends "milky spore disease preparation" as an organic control of japanese beetles. Spraying with Sevin can be used to control leafhoppers, which in addition to leaf-eating can also spread disease (such as the stunt disease virus). Don't use Sevin during blossoming season because it kills the bees needed for pollination. 6. WILTING CANES - Wilting can be caused when Stem Borers bore through canes. Prune affected canes. Spraying with Sevin can be used to control Stem Borers, but should not be used when blueberry blossoms begin to bloom because Sevin kills the bees needed for pollination. I highly recommend obtaining a copy of "The Berry Book" which provides more extensive and more detailed information on both this subject as well as other aspects of growing berries. Please feel free to add suggestions from your experiences and knowledge on the subject. Article 20470 of rec.gardens: Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!biivax.dp.beckman.com!falstaff.css.beckman.com!not-for-mail Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Fruit tree grafting - tips from limited experience Message-ID: <236i4m$l0g@falstaff.css.beckman.com> From: heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com (Matt Heffron) Date: 28 Jul 1993 11:56:22 -0700 Reply-To: heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com Distribution: world Organization: Scientific Services, Beckman Instruments, Inc. NNTP-Posting-Host: falstaff.css.beckman.com X-Newsreader: NN version 6.4.19 Lines: 103 I received a few requests for grafting tips, so, based on LIMTED experience (2 years), here goes... * Sterility of the tools is important to MAKE SURE that there is no chance of any possible contamination of the graft. I use a spray bottle (e.g. like for window cleaner) with a 10-15% chlorine bleach solution (i.e. between 1:5 and 1:9 bleach-to-water ratio). Spray the tools between EVERY GRAFT. * Use a SHARP knife for making the cuts. If you don't use a grafting knife then use a knife with a thin stiff blade and a good, solid handle that you can really hold onto. A kitchen paring knife might be OK if the blade is thin and stiff, a hobby knife usually has too small (thin) a handle, a retractable utility knife (the kind with the 1x2" trapezoidal blades) works well, but make a few cuts in scrap wood first to get the oil off of the blade. I use the utility knife. For a whip (splice) graft: * Choose the location on the stock to graft, correctly. It MUST be pointing as close to vertical as possible. * Try to match the diameter of the scion to the stock as much as you can. The best size for the scion is about the same as a pencil (.25"x7") before you make your cut. (You really only want about 3 buds on the scion when you're done, but start with extra length to work with making the cut. I NEVER get a good cut the first try.) * Cut the stock first. Then cut the scion, so that the buds point in the direction you want (i.e. away from the center of the tree, and not pointed to cross other branches.) Try to make both cuts the same length. * Be sure to cut the bottom of the scion (with some plants it's hard to tell which end is UP). * You MUST match the cambium layer in the stock and the scion. (The cambium is the layer just below the bark.) If you can't match both sides of a cut because of different diameters, then match as much as you can of one side. DON'T just center the scion on the stock. * Using vinyl grafting tape (not teflon plumbers tape, it looks right but it isn't strong enough), wrap the graft snugly to hold the scion to the stock. Be sure to cover the entire cut area, if the cut is exposed, it'll either dry out or get infected, either way you lose. * Cut the exposed scion down to 3 buds. More doesn't help. It divides the energy going into the scion. * HINT NOT IN ANY GRAFTING BOOKS! * Take a 2x4" piece of PARAFILM laboratory film, stretch it lengthwise (into a 2x10" approx piece), and wrap the whole graft and scion, all the way over the end of the scion (i.e. a spiral wrap). This helps keep the scion from drying out, and you can leave it on since the buds can grow right through the PARAFILM, and it eventually just breaks down. You should be able to get PARAFILM from chemist or biology friends or lab stockrooms or lab supply companies. Try friends first, you have to buy it in 125 or 250 FOOT rolls. (That's 750 to 1500 grafts!) * Leave the tape on the graft as long as you can. Until it looks like it is girdling (strangling) the branch. * When the new growth is about 12-14 inches, pinch off the tips of the growth to force it to branch out. I'm told this will result in a healthier, more productive limb later on. * If it is growing really well, tie the limb to a stake to support it so the new growth doesn't get too heavy for the graft joint to hold up, especially if it's windy where you are. (I lost 2 grafts this way.) THE BEST WAY TO LEARN TO GRAFT IS TO BE SHOWN BY SOMEONE. It's not as hard as it sounds, watching someone do it really helps. A couple of other grafting points. Grafting does not cause the fruit produced to be some sort of hybrid between the stock tree and the scion type. The fruit will be exactly the scion type. You can graft most stone fruits onto each other: peach, nectarine, apricot, plum, almond. Although some will take better than others. (E.g., European plums and Oriental plums don't seem to graft together well.) You can also graft apple varieties onto each other, pear varieties onto each other (including asian pears (yummm!)), and some apples and pears onto each other. You can bud graft any citrus onto any other citrus. (There are probably exceptions, but I haven't heard of 'em.) That's enough for now. (I've really got to do some REAL work... :-) -- Matt Heffron heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com Beckman Instruments, Inc. voice: (714) 961-3128 2500 N. Harbor Blvd. MS X-11, Fullerton, CA 92634-3100 I don't speak for Beckman Instruments unless they say so. Article 20470 of rec.gardens: Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Fruit tree grafting - tips from limited experience From: heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com (Matt Heffron) Date: 28 Jul 1993 11:56:22 -0700 Reply-To: heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com Lines: 103 I received a few requests for grafting tips, so, based on LIMTED experience (2 years), here goes... * Sterility of the tools is important to MAKE SURE that there is no chance of any possible contamination of the graft. I use a spray bottle (e.g. like for window cleaner) with a 10-15% chlorine bleach solution (i.e. between 1:5 and 1:9 bleach-to-water ratio). Spray the tools between EVERY GRAFT. * Use a SHARP knife for making the cuts. If you don't use a grafting knife then use a knife with a thin stiff blade and a good, solid handle that you can really hold onto. A kitchen paring knife might be OK if the blade is thin and stiff, a hobby knife usually has too small (thin) a handle, a retractable utility knife (the kind with the 1x2" trapezoidal blades) works well, but make a few cuts in scrap wood first to get the oil off of the blade. I use the utility knife. For a whip (splice) graft: * Choose the location on the stock to graft, correctly. It MUST be pointing as close to vertical as possible. * Try to match the diameter of the scion to the stock as much as you can. The best size for the scion is about the same as a pencil (.25"x7") before you make your cut. (You really only want about 3 buds on the scion when you're done, but start with extra length to work with making the cut. I NEVER get a good cut the first try.) * Cut the stock first. Then cut the scion, so that the buds point in the direction you want (i.e. away from the center of the tree, and not pointed to cross other branches.) Try to make both cuts the same length. * Be sure to cut the bottom of the scion (with some plants it's hard to tell which end is UP). * You MUST match the cambium layer in the stock and the scion. (The cambium is the layer just below the bark.) If you can't match both sides of a cut because of different diameters, then match as much as you can of one side. DON'T just center the scion on the stock. * Using vinyl grafting tape (not teflon plumbers tape, it looks right but it isn't strong enough), wrap the graft snugly to hold the scion to the stock. Be sure to cover the entire cut area, if the cut is exposed, it'll either dry out or get infected, either way you lose. * Cut the exposed scion down to 3 buds. More doesn't help. It divides the energy going into the scion. * HINT NOT IN ANY GRAFTING BOOKS! * Take a 2x4" piece of PARAFILM laboratory film, stretch it lengthwise (into a 2x10" approx piece), and wrap the whole graft and scion, all the way over the end of the scion (i.e. a spiral wrap). This helps keep the scion from drying out, and you can leave it on since the buds can grow right through the PARAFILM, and it eventually just breaks down. You should be able to get PARAFILM from chemist or biology friends or lab stockrooms or lab supply companies. Try friends first, you have to buy it in 125 or 250 FOOT rolls. (That's 750 to 1500 grafts!) * Leave the tape on the graft as long as you can. Until it looks like it is girdling (strangling) the branch. * When the new growth is about 12-14 inches, pinch off the tips of the growth to force it to branch out. I'm told this will result in a healthier, more productive limb later on. * If it is growing really well, tie the limb to a stake to support it so the new growth doesn't get too heavy for the graft joint to hold up, especially if it's windy where you are. (I lost 2 grafts this way.) THE BEST WAY TO LEARN TO GRAFT IS TO BE SHOWN BY SOMEONE. It's not as hard as it sounds, watching someone do it really helps. A couple of other grafting points. Grafting does not cause the fruit produced to be some sort of hybrid between the stock tree and the scion type. The fruit will be exactly the scion type. You can graft most stone fruits onto each other: peach, nectarine, apricot, plum, almond. Although some will take better than others. (E.g., European plums and Oriental plums don't seem to graft together well.) You can also graft apple varieties onto each other, pear varieties onto each other (including asian pears (yummm!)), and some apples and pears onto each other. You can bud graft any citrus onto any other citrus. (There are probably exceptions, but I haven't heard of 'em.) That's enough for now. (I've really got to do some REAL work... :-) -- Matt Heffron heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com Beckman Instruments, Inc. voice: (714) 961-3128 2500 N. Harbor Blvd. MS X-11, Fullerton, CA 92634-3100 I don't speak for Beckman Instruments unless they say so. Article 20582 of rec.gardens: Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Rare Fruit growing article Date: 31 Jul 1993 02:36:17 GMT Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena Lines: 65 Message-ID: <23clr1INN67v@gap.caltech.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: sandman.caltech.edu Summary: Sourcelist of nurseries and clubs I just noticed my latest issue of Veggie Life magazine ("Growing cooking and eating green") has an article entitled "Subtropical Fruits for Your Greenhouse." They cover (briefly!) cherimoya, allspice, star fruit, philodendron, acerola, passion fruit, jelly palm and jaboticaba. The best part is they give the following info at the end of the article : --------- Clubs: --------- California Rare Fruit Growers Fullerton Arboretum, CSFU Fullerton, CA 92634 This club has a world-wide membership base and is very knowledgable about rare plants. Send a SASE for inquiries. (Its $16 annual, US, which includes 6 issues of 'The Fruit Gardener' which is a color magazine, also a seed bank and seed exchange.) For those of you in southern california, CRFG will have their 25th anniversary celebration in Thousand Oaks, CA, which includes tours, plant and book sales, and food. Rare Fruit Council International Inc. PO Box 561914 Miami, FL 33256 Paw Paw Trackers Ray Jones 783 Cornell Dr Santa Clara, CA 95051 Dues are $5 the first year and $2 thereafter. Make checks payable to Ray Jones. ----------- Nurseries: ----------- Exotica Rare Fruit Nursery PO Box 160 Vista, CA 92083 (619) 724-9093 Plant list available. Atkins Nursery Inc 3129 Reche Rd Fallbrook, CA 92028 (619) 728-1610 Orange County Source Roger and Shirley Meyer 16531 Mt Shelly Circle FOuntain Valley, CA 92708 Pacific Tree Farms 4301 Lynwood Dr Chula Vista, CA 92010 (619) 422-2400 Its nice to see growing exotic fruits getting more out in the mainstream! (Is Veggie Life mainstream??!) Kelly kelly@cco.caltech.edu From hrick@world.std.com Thu Mar 3 13:11:28 1994 Date: Thu, 3 Mar 1994 00:05:12 -0500 From: Rick Harrison To: london@SunSITE.Unc.EDU Subject: Re: list of tangerines available A DIRECTORY OF MANDARINS / TANGERINES AND THEIR HYBRIDS 1994.03 Rick Harrison, PO Box 54-7014, Orlando FL 32854, USA Internet e-mail: hrick@world.std.com Mandarins/tangerines are citrus fruits and trees of the species _Citrus_reticulata_ Blanco. They are distinguished from other citrus species by the relatively loose skin of the fruits, the relative ease with which the segments can be separated, and (in most cultivars) the green cotyledons. Most varieties also contain chemical compounds not found in other citrus species: _thymol_ in the leaves and _tangeretin_ in the fruits. Some experts consider the varieties King, Satsuma, Cleopatra and Ponkan to be separate species unto themselves. I have a personal fondness for mandarins. This document is my attempt to organize the information I've found about the known varieties. If you live in an area that doesn't have hard freezes, you can grow tangerine trees outdoors; they usually require little attention after they have established themselves. My method for installing a potted tree: Pick a sunny site; dig a larger hole than necessary; stir some composted cow manure and just a small dash of slow-release fertilizer containing trace minerals into the soil; replace some of the soil so that the hole is the correct depth for planting the tree. (The rootball's height/depth in relation to the ground surface should be the same after installation as it was in the pot.) Loosen and spread the small roots on the outside of the rootball; insert the tree, fill in the rest of the hole, and water thoroughly while gently tamping down the soil to eliminate air pockets. In colder areas, mandarins can be grown in greenhouses, or in portable containers which are kept outdoors until freezing weather arrives, then brought indoors to a sunlit location. For trees that will have to be wintered in a garage or other unheated area, satsuma on trifoliate rootstock is the best choice. Regarding pest control, the owners of large groves are convinced that it's impossible to grow citrus without frequent use of insecticides, fungicides and herbicides. However, many people in Florida grow a few citrus trees around their homes and give them no attention whatsoever -- no pesticides, little or no pruning, not even any fertilizer -- and they still enjoy reasonably good harvests. My hypothesis is that the over-use of fertilizer in commercial groves leads to their dependence on pesticides. Over-fertilization causes trees to grow at an unnatural rate, and the tender new growth of citrus is most attractive to aphids, mites and other insects. These insects are the method of transportation of most of the viral diseases that affect citrus. When it comes to flavor, I have sampled about 18 varieties and Dancy is still my favorite. Dancy tends to be tart and acidic in November, has a rich blend of sugars and acids in December, and becomes very sweet by January, assuming the weather has been favorable. Dancy seems to reach its peak around the time of the winter solstice; the peel and flesh are very aromatic at that time, and the mix of sugars and acids is complex and delicious. I'd like to hear from other tangerine fanatics: what are your favorite varities? do you freeze juice or make preserves? what lengths do you go to in order to grow tangerines in cold climates? what do you think about commercial practices such as "de-greening" and waxing? the list of varieties is divided thus: Mandarins Tangelos (mandarin X grapefruit/pummelo crosses) Tangors (tangerine X orange crosses) Complex Hybrids Lemandarins (mandarin X lemon crosses) hardiness = tolerance to cold (the tree, not the fruit); season = when the fruit is ripe (this varies depending on climate); holds = how well the fruit lasts on the tree after maturing; size, shape, base, apex, etc. = description of fruit variety: category: hardiness: tree: leaves: season: holds: size: shape: base: apex: axis: color: surface: rind: oil glands: segments: pulp: vesicles: flavor: seeds: history: notes: +-----------+ | mandarins | +-----------+ variety: Beauty (a.k.a. Beauty of Glen Retreat) category: mandarin tree: thornless, branches slender and willowy leaves: small season: Dec Jan size: medium, avg. diam. 2.5, avg. height 2.25 shape: flattened oblate, segmentation visible apex: flat or very slightly depressed axis: open, 1/2 inch or less diam. color: red-orange surface: glossy rind: very thin, 1/16 oil glands: large, elliptical/oval, conspicuous segments: 10 or more pulp: melting, orange vesicles: broad, blunt flavor: rich; resembles Dancy but is distinct; "vinous" - Hume seeds: few, small history: discov Australia 1888; distrib USDA 1893; formerly grown in FL notes: "it has disappeared from cultivation" - Webber et al 1943 variety: Campeona category: mandarin season: mid-season to late size: large shape: broadly oblate surface: pebbled texture rind: adherent but peelable pulp: orange color flavor: rich seeds: many notes: grown in Argentina variety: Carvalhais category: mandarin season: early holds: well size: medium to large rind: medium thick, tough, strongly adherent history: originated in Portugal variety: Changsha category: mandarin (grows true-to-type from seed) hardiness: very hardy season: early size: small-to-medium flavor: good seeds: numerous notes: resembles Satsuma variety: Clementine (a.k.a. Algerian) category: mandarin (possibly a chance hybrid of unknown parentage) tree: medium, spreading or weeping habit, nearly thornless leaves: dark green above and lighter on underside; dense foliage season: Dec Jan Feb holds: well size: medium, diam. 2 to 2.5, height 2 to 2.75 shape: globose to ovoid, somewhat irregular base: evenly rounded to slightly necked, with radiating furrows apex: depressed axis: large, hollow color: deep orange-red surface: smooth, glossy, slightly pitted rind: medium thick, 1/8 to 3/16, loose oil glands: prominent, large, elliptical, depressions over primary ones segments: 8 to 12, slight adherence pulp: tender, melting, deep orange vesicles: short, broad flavor: sweet seeds: 3 to 6, medium size, oblong to fusiform; embryo pistache green history: discov in Algeria, came to FL 1909 notes: fruits hold well on tree; best when pollinated by Dancy, Kinnow, Orlando, Valencia; produces best fruit in deserts of California and Arizona; seedless in some climates variety: Cleopatra (a.k.a. Spice) category: mandarin tree: low, spreading, dense foliage, attractive leaves: small, dark green season: Jan Feb size: small, up to 2 inch diam. shape: oblate base: flat apex: depressed, generally navel marked color: deep red-orange surface: somewhat rough rind: very loose, up to 1/8 thick oil glands: small, numerous segments: 15 pulp: coarse-grained, orange vesicles: broad, blunt flavor: tart seeds: numerous, small history: came from Jamaica to Florida before 1888 notes: used as rootstock for other varieties; possibly identical with Ponki, which is used as a rootstock in Japan variety: Cravo category: mandarin season: early size: medium shape: obovate to subglobose color: deep orange rind: medium thickness, somewhat rough, loosely adherent flavor: juicy, mild notes: grown in Brazil variety: Dancy (a.k.a. Moragne, Bijou) category: mandarin (usually grows true-to-type from seed) hardiness: hardy tree: medium-large, erect, nearly thornless leaves: broadly lanceolate, 3 to 4.75 inches long season: Nov Dec Jan holds: fair size: medium, diam. 2.25 to 3, height 1.5 to 2.125 shape: oblate base: usually necked, more or less corrugated apex: broadly depressed axis: large, hollow color: deep red-orange surface: smooth, glossy rind: thin, 1/8 to 3/16, leathery, easily removed, not baggy until old oil glands: small segments: 10 to 14, easily separated pulp: melting, tender, dark orange vesicles: short, broad, relatively large flavor: rich and sprightly, pleasant aroma seeds: 6 to 20, short, blunt or beaked; cotyledons pistache green history: introduced into cultivation 1871 notes: Does best in Florida. Recently this variety's susceptibility to alternaria has been a problem in commercial groves. variety: Dweet category: mandarin (hybrid: Dancy x Mediterranean) tree: medium, open habit season: late holds: poorly size: medium-large shape: ovoid with a slight neck color: red-orange rind: adherent flavor: rich seeds: many notes: does well in coastal and interior California variety: Emperor category: mandarin season: Nov Dec Jan Feb size: large, avg. diam. 2.5, height 1.75 shape: oblate, sometimes has a "neck" color: pale orange base: sometimes necked rind: moderately thin, easy to peel segments: 9 to 10, sometimes irregular pulp: pale orange color seeds: 10 to 16, long and pointed notes: widely grown in Australia early in 20th century variety: Encore category: mandarin (hybrid: King x Mediterranean) tree: medium, upright/spreading habit, few or no thorns season: Mar Apr May holds: well color: yellow-orange, speckled with dark orange spots rind: easily peeled flavor: rich seeds: many history: introduced by University of California at Riverside variety: Fortune category: mandarin (hybrid: Clementine x Dancy) season: late variety: Fremont category: mandarin (hybrid: Clementine x Ponkan) season: early holds: well flavor: rich history: developed by J R Furr, released 1964 variety: Honey category: mandarin (hybrid: King x Mediterranean) tree: medium-to-large, vigorous, spreading season: early holds: well size: small to medium color: yellow-orange rind: easily peeled flavor: very sweet seeds: many notes: beware of name confusion; Murcott tangors are sometimes called "Honey tangerines"; Minneola is a.k.a. Honeybell. Honey is a commercial variety in California. variety: Iyo category: mandarin season: midseason color: deep orange flavor: juicy, rich notes: grown in Japan variety: Kara category: mandarin (hybrid: Owari Satsuma x King) hardiness: sensitive tree: medium, vigorous, spreading, nearly thornless leaves: large, dark green, with drooping habit season: Mar Apr May holds: fair size: medium, diam. 2 to 3, height 2.125 to 2.75 shape: medium oblate to nearly globose, often somewhat conical base: often with small neck apex: considerably flattened, often depressed axis: semi-hollow color: orange surface: moderately grained rind: thin-to-medium, 1/8 to 1/5, loose, tough oil glands: numerous, medium size; oil is abundant, aromatic segments: 10 to 13, easily separated pulp: tender, yellow-orange vesicles: medium size, stout flavor: rich flavor, strong pleasant unique aroma seeds: 12 to 20, plump, yellow-tinged or yellow-green cotyledons history: H B Frost, CA Citrus Experiment Station, 1935 notes: best in interior California, sometimes grown for its juice variety: Kincy category: mandarin (hybrid: King x Dancy) notes: distinctive, excellent flavor according to Webber variety: King (a.k.a. King of Siam) category: mandarin (although some call it an orange) hardiness: hardy tree: upright, medium size, relatively open foliage leaves: large, 3 to 4.25, broadly lanceolate, margins slightly crenate season: Mar Apr May size: large, diam. 2.5 to 3.75, height 2.25 to 3.5 shape: oblate to near spherical base: rounded or somewhat necked, wrinkled with short radiating furrows apex: flattened or depressed, marked by characteristic areole axis: large, 0.75 to 1.25, hollow, stellate color: yellow-orange to orange surface: rough and bumpy rind: thick, 3/16 to 5/16, tight but easily removed oil glands: large, depressions over main ones give finely pitted appearance segments: 10 to 12, regular, easily separated pulp: dark orange, tender, melting vesicles: fusiform, medium in size flavor: rich and sprightly seeds: 5 to 15 or more, fusiform, plump, beaked, white cotyledons history: from Saigon to Riverside CA 1880; to Winter Park FL 1882 notes: susceptible to sun scald due to thin foliage, limb breakage due to over-bearing; might be identical to Kunenbo grown in Japan variety: Kinneloa category: mandarin size: medium, up to 3 inch diam. shape: roundish-oblate apex: small dot in a medium small basin color: red-orange surface: undulating, rough rind: loose, 1/8 inch thick oil glands: numerous, depressed; oil pungent, aromatic pulp: tender vesicles: small to medium, irregular flavor: ordinary seeds: 10, plump, straw colored history: probably originated on Kinneloa Ranch east of Pasadena CA notes: "Tanaka considers this variety to be identical with the Ponkan. The Kinneloa... has apparently disappeared from cultivation." - Webber et al 1943 variety: Kinnow category: mandarin (hybrid: King x Willow-leaf) hardiness: very hardy tree: vigorous, large, erect, dense leaves: medium size, rather thin and pliable season: Jan Feb Mar Apr holds: well size: medium, diam. 2.125 to 3, height 2 to 2.5 shape: slightly oblate base: flattened, often slightly depressed apex: flattened, often slightly depressed axis: solid to semi-hollow color: deep yellow-orange surface: smooth, glossy, easily scars rind: thin, 1/8, leathery, fairly easy to peel oil glands: conspicuous, oil is abundant and aromatic segments: 9 to 10, fairly easy to separate pulp: moderately tender, deep yellow-orange vesicles: medium size, stout flavor: rich, high sugar and moderate acid, unique pleasant aroma seeds: 12 to 24, medium size, yellowish cotyledons history: H B Frost, CA Citrus Experiment Station, 1935 notes: outstanding flavor, attractive appearance variety: Kino Kuni (a.k.a. Kinokuni) category: mandarin tree: compactly headed leaves: small season: Nov Dec size: small to medium shape: flattened oblate base: usually creased or roughened with 4 or 5 ridges apex: broad, shallow depression color: orange to red-orange surface: rough rind: 1/8 inch or thinner, tight but peelable oil glands: conspicuous, depressed segments: 13, irregular pulp: melting, coarse, orange vesicles: short, broad, blunt flavor: sprightly, acidity and sweetness well blended seeds: 13 to 14, top shaped, beaked; green cotyledons variety: Mandalina category: mandarin history: from Lebanon notes: resembles Dancy but has more seeds, lower quality fruit variety: Naartje (a.k.a. Natal) category: mandarin season: mid-season size: medium to medium-large rind: strongly adherent seeds: many flavor: rich notes: a commercial variety in South Africa; ships well variety: Oneco category: mandarin tree: large, vigorous, erect leaves: 2 to 3.125 inches long, fragrant when bruised season: Jan Feb Mar holds: well size: medium to large, diam. 2.5 to 3.5, height 2.25 to 3 shape: oblate to slightly pyriform base: mainly necked, somewhat furrowed apex: has a broad, shallow depression axis: large, hollow color: yellow-orange surface: glossy, somewhat rough; become bumpy when old rind: thin, 1/8 to 3/16, loose oil glands: small but conspicuous segments: 8 to 12, easily separated pulp: tender, melting, yellow-orange vesicles: medium size, short and broad flavor: sweet seeds: 5 to 12, small, beaked; cotyledons pale green, nearly white history: seed from India 1888; distrib Royal Palm Nursery of Oneco FL notes: "not surpassed in quality by any other... mandarin" - Hume; "resembles the Ponkan closely" - Jackson variety: Pixie category: mandarin (offspring of Kincy) tree: medium-large, with erect open habit season: Apr May Jun holds: fair size: small to medium color: yellow-orange rind: easily peeled flavor: mild seeds: none variety: Ponkan (a.k.a. Warnurco, Chinese Honey Orange, Batangas) category: mandarin hardiness: hardy? tender? tree: small, upright season: Nov Dec holds: fair size: large, diam. 2.75 to 3.25 shape: globose to oblate base: flattened or somewhat necked, with irregular furrows apex: deeply depressed, with radiating furrows, sometimes with navel axis: large, hollow color: orange surface: smooth or finely papillate rind: medium thick, loosely adherent oil glands: prominent, not uniform segments: 9 to 12, easily separated pulp: tender, bright, near salmon-orange vesicles: large, plump, many attached to side walls flavor: sweet, aromatic seeds: few, small, plump, nearly smooth; green embryos history: from China to FL 1892 notes: does not ship well; called Suntara in India variety: Satsuma (a.k.a. Unshiu) category: mandarin hardiness: very hardy (mature, dormant trees hardy to 12'F) tree: small to medium, spreading, slow-growing leaves: (depends on strain) season: Sep Oct Nov holds: fair size: medium to large shape: oblate to spherical or slightly conical axis: hollow color: orange to yellow-orange surface: slightly rough rind: thin, 1/8 to 3/16, tight but easily peeled oil glands: large and numerous pulp: tender, melting, ochraceous orange or salmon vesicles: broad flavor: good, low acid seeds: few history: originated in Japan circa 1600, Japan to USA 1876 notes: pulp ripens before rind changes color; there are many different strains, including Owari, Wase, Ikeda, Mikado; rootstock and soil influence fruit quality; mutations and throwbacks are common; often grown on trifoliate stock to accentuate dormancy variety: Wilking category: mandarin (hybrid: King x Willow-leaf) hardiness: hardy tree: medium, vigorous, columnar, dense leaves: medium size, up to 4.75 inches long season: Jan Feb Mar Apr holds: fair size: medium, diam. 2.125 to 3.125, height 1.75 to 3 shape: oblate base: flattened, slightly if at all depressed apex: flattened, medium-depressed axis: semi-hollow color: deep yellow-orange surface: coarsely grained to nearly smooth rind: thin to medium, 1/8 to 1/6, brittle, loose oil glands: medium size, numerous, conspicuous; oil abundant, aromatic segments: 9 to 13, easily separated pulp: moderately tender, rich yellow-orange vesicles: medium size, stout flavor: rich, good, high sugar, moderate acid, distinctive aroma seeds: 10 to 17, mostly plump, yellow-green cotyledons history: developed by H Frost, CA Citrus Experiment Station, 1935 notes: alternate-bearing (heavy production every other year) variety: Willow-leaf (a.k.a. Mediterranean, China) category: mandarin (grows true-to-type from seeds) hardiness: hardy tree: small to medium, broad, with fine willowy branches leaves: small, narrow, lanceolate season: Nov Dec Jan holds: poorly size: medium, diam. 2 to 2.5, height 1.75 to 2.25 shape: oblate to globose base: variable apex: depressed, slightly wrinkled axis: large, diam. 1/2 to 3/4, hollow color: yellow-orange surface: smooth, glossy, segmentation visible rind: thin, 1/16 to 1/8, loose oil glands: conspicuous, with depressions over primary glands segments: 10 to 12 pulp: tender, orange vesicles: short and plump flavor: sweet, flavorful, distinctly aromatic seeds: 15 to 20 history: from Italy to Louisiana circa 1845 notes: needs a hot climate for best fruit +----------+ | tangelos | +----------+ variety: K-Early category: probably a tangelo season: early -- the earliest mandarin notes: developed by H J Webber and W T Swingle; never officially introduced by the USDA, but is grown by unscrupulous growers who get a high price for early fruit; the fruit is of poor quality, low in both sugar and acid, often bitter. variety: Minneola (a.k.a. Honeybell) category: tangelo (Duncan x Dancy) hardiness: hardy tree: medium-large, vigorous, round leaves: dark green, large season: Dec Jan Feb holds: well size: large shape: globose-ovoid with distinct "neck" color: red-orange rind: thick, brittle flavor: rich, tangy seeds: less than 10 on average notes: best when pollinated by Dancy, Clementine, Kinnow, Temple variety: Orlando (a.k.a. Lake) category: tangelo (Duncan x Dancy) hardiness: "more cold-tolerant than Minneola" tree: dark, distinctively cupped leaves season: Nov Dec Jan size: medium-large, diam. 3.5 color: orange to yellow-orange rind: strongly adherent flavor: mildly sweet history: bred by W T Swingle in 1911, released in 1931 notes: best when pollinated by Dancy, Clementine, Kinnow, Temple; will grow in deserts of CA and AZ variety: Pearl category: tangelo (Willow-leaf x Imperial) season: early history: developed by H Frost, 1940 notes: poor quality fruit variety: Sampson category: tangelo (Dancy x unnamed grapefruit) tree: large, vigorous leaves: glossy, cupped season: Feb Mar Apr holds: well size: medium color: yellow-orange rind: thin, somewhat adherent flavor: acidic, similar to grapefruit seeds: 15 on average history: bred by W T Swingle in 1897 notes: susceptible to scab variety: Seminole category: tangelo (Dancy x Duncan) tree: medium to large, vigorous season: Feb Mar Apr holds: fair size: medium-large color: red-orange rind: easily peeled flavor: sprightly, tangy seeds: many (22 average) history: released 1931 variety: Thornton category: tangelo season: Dec Jan Feb color: light orange rind: thick, easily peeled flavor: sweet seeds: 15 average history: bred in 1899 by W T Swingle +---------+ | tangors | +---------+ variety: Ambersweet category: tangor+ ([Clementine x Orlando] x sweet orange) hardiness: moderately hardy tree: upright, moderately vigorous, small thorns season: Oct Nov Dec size: medium, 2.5 to 3.75 in. diam. shape: tapered at stem end, slightly pear-shaped overall surface: rather pebbly rind: moderately thick, easily peeled seeds: highly variable in number depending on pollination history: developed by C. J. Hearn (USDA Orlando), released 1989 notes: self-pollinating; attractive to mites; produces best fruit on Cleopatra or sour orange rootstock variety: Ellendale category: possibly a tangor season: late size: medium to large shape: oblate to globose color: orange-red seeds: many notes: grown in Australia variety: Fallglo category: mandarin (hybrid: Bower x Temple) hardiness: not very hardy tree: moderately vigorous, upright, thornless season: Oct Nov size: medium, 2.75 to 3.25 in. diam. shape: oblate color: deep red-orange rind: 1/8 to 3/16 in thick, easily peeled seeds: 20 to 40 history: bred by P. C. Reese, released by USDA 1987 notes: resistant to scab fungus; susceptible to aphids; sometimes suffers from twig and limb dieback variety: Mency category: tangor (Maltese Oval x Dancy) tree: vigorous, productive season: very early flavor: rather sour variety: Murcott category: tangor hardiness: semi-sensitive tree: medium, upright season: Jan Feb Mar size: medium color: yellow-orange surface: smooth and somewhat glossy rind: thin, tight but peelable flavor: sweet, rich seeds: 18 to 24 history: probably the result of Swingle's breeding experiments, the parent tree lost its identification tag in transit to Safety Harbor FL in 1913. notes: slightly susceptible to scab fungus and xyloporosis variety: Ortanique category: probably a tangor season: late size: large rind: thin, tight flavor: rich, juicy history: discovered in Jamaica 1920 variety: Ruddy category: tangor (King x Maltese Oval) size: large flavor: tart, aromatic variety: Tangerona category: tangor hardiness: sensitive season: Sep Oct size: small shape: roundish color: yellow-orange rind: tight flavor: good seeds: few to many, depending on pollination history: from Brazil to FL circa 1890 notes: the specimen I tasted was slightly bitter, but I don't know yet if this is typical or was caused by the stress of moving the tree to my location last year (1993) - RH variety: Tankan category: probably a tangor (parents unknown) season: medium to late size: medium to large color: deep orange surface: pebbled or somewhat wrinkled flavor: juicy, rich, sweet history: from southeast China notes: stores well, ships well variety: Temple category: probably a tangor (parents unknown) hardiness: tender tree: spreading, bushy, somewhat thorny leaves: medium size season: Jan Feb Mar Apr holds: fair size: medium-large, diam. 2.5 to 3.25, height 2.25 to 2.5 shape: oblate to spherical base: rounded or tapering to a slightly raised neck apex: somewhat depressed or nearly flat, frequently with small navel axis: mainly solid, diam. 3/8 to 1/2 color: orange to red-orange surface: slightly pebbled or rugose rind: medium thick, 1/8 to 3/16, loose and peelable, leathery oil glands: spherical to elliptical segments: 10 to 12 pulp: tender, melting, orange vesicles: medium size, fusiform flavor: rich and spicy seeds: average 20, medium, plump history: originated in Winter Park FL, distrib Buckeye Nurseries 1917 notes: somewhat susceptible to scab variety: Umatilla category: tangor (Owari Satsuma x Ruby orange) season: late size: large color: red-orange surface: smooth history: bred by W T Swingle in 1911, released in 1931 notes: excellent quality; sometimes incorrectly called a tangelo; fruit is size and shape of King +-----------------+ | complex hybrids | +-----------------+ variety: Fairchild category: hybrid: Clementine x Orlando tree: medium, rounded, dense, nearly thornless season: early holds: fair size: medium-size color: deep orange flavor: sweet, rich seeds: many history: developed by J R Furr, released 1964 notes: does best in the low deserts of California and Arizona; needs to be pollinated by other mandarins for best production variety: Lee category: hybrid: Clementine x Orlando hardiness: hardy season: Oct Nov Dec size: medium, 2.75 to 3 in. diam. shape: oblate color: yellow-orange surface: smooth rind: thin, adherent flavor: good, low acid level seeds: 10 to 25 history: developed by F E Gardner, released by USDA 1959 notes: pulp ripens before peel develops full orange color variety: Nova category: hybrid: Clementine x Orlando season: Nov Dec size: medium to large, 2.75 to 3 in. diam. shape: oblate axis: somewhat hollow color: orange surface: slightly pebbly rind: medium-thick, adherent but peelable pulp: deep orange size: medium-large seeds: 1 to 30 (varies depending on pollination) history: developed by F E Gardner, released by USDA in 1964 notes: when grown in Florida, resembles Orlando tangelo; requires cross pollination from other varieties variety: Osceola category: hybrid: Clementine x Orlando hardiness: moderately hardy tree: upright, dense foliage, nearly thornless season: Oct Nov holds: poorly size: medium, 2.25 to 2.75 in. diam. color: deep orange to coral-red surface: glossy rind: thin, leathery flavor: tangy, high sugar and high acid (disliked by some) seeds: 15 to 25 seeds history: developed by F E Gardner, released 1959 notes: cross-pollination from other varieties increases yield; susceptible to scab fungus variety: Page category: hybrid: Minneola x Clementine tree: medium, round, dense foliage, few thorns season: Nov Dec Jan holds: well size: small-to-medium shape: nearly spherical color: orange rind: medium-thin, leathery, strongly adherent flavor: rich; "great choice for fresh juice lovers" seeds: variable, 2 to 25 history: developed by Gardner & Bellows (USDA Orlando), released 1963 notes: produces best fruit when pollinated by other varieties; limited commercial potential due to small fruit size, but good for home orchards due to high quality and long season; somewhat susceptible to scab fungus disease variety: Robinson category: hybrid: Clementine x Orlando hardiness: moderately hardy tree: dense foliage season: Oct Nov Dec color: yellow-orange to orange size: medium, 2.5 to 3 in. diam. shape: oblate surface: smooth, glossy rind: thin, leathery, easily peeled flavor: mild history: developed by Gardner & Bellows, introduced in 1959 notes: best when pollinated by a tangelo or tangor; susceptible to twig and stem dieback; fruit splitting sometimes a problem variety: Sunburst category: hybrid: Robinson x Osceola hardiness: moderately hardy tree: moderately vigorous, upright and spreading, thornless leaves: dark green season: Nov Dec size: 2.5 to 3 in. diam. shape: oblate with depressed navel axis: somewhat hollow color: dark orange surface: smooth rind: thin, easily peeled segments: 11 to 14 flavor: sweet seeds: 10 to 20, pale green inside history: introduced in 1979, developed by Dr. C. Jack Hearn notes: best when pollinated by other varieties; resistant to scab, alternaria and citrus snow scale; vulnerable to citrus rust mite and Texas citrus mite +-------------+ | lemandarins | +-------------+ variety: Owarbon category: lemandarin/tangemon (Owari Satsuma x Lisbon lemon) surface: rough pulp: tender, juicy flavor: tart, aromatic seeds: few ========================================================================== +--------------+ | bibliography | +--------------+ Hume, H. Harold; Citrus fruits and their culture; 1904 Jackson, Larry K.; Citrus growing in Florida; 3rd edition, University of Florida Press, 1991 Jackson, L. K. & Futch, S. H.; Facts about specialty citrus characteristics; in: Citrus Industry, Jan 1994, Feb 1994 Ray, Richard & Walheim, Lance; Citrus -- how to select, grow and enjoy; H P Books, 1980 Sturrock, David; Fruits for southern Florida; Southeastern Printing Co, 1959 Webber & Batchelor, editors; The citrus industry -- history, botany and breeding; University of California, 1943 / end / Article 13571 of rec.gardens: Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!cs.ucf.edu!tarpit!bilver!jwt!hrick From: bbs-hrick@jwt.UUCP (Rick Harrison) Subject: tangerines Reply-To: bbs-hrick@jwt.UUCP Organization: The Matrix Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1993 23:42:53 GMT Message-ID: <725RyB1w164w@jwt.UUCP> Sender: bbs@jwt.UUCP Lines: 201 A DIRECTORY OF TANGERINES, TANGELOS AND TANGORS -- FIRST DRAFT Corrections and additions would be appreciated. Variety name, Classification (mandarin/tangelo/tangor), Hardiness (sensitive/hardy/very hardy), Tree-description, Ripe-fruit-season, Fruit-description, Pollinator-requirements, Notes V: Calamondin C: hybrid: mandarin X kumquat H: very hardy T: small, columnar R: year-round F: very small, red-orange skin, acidic flesh, sweet edible rind P: self-pollinating V: Changsha C: mandarin (grows true-to-type from seed) H: very hardy T: R: early F: small-to-medium, seedy, good flavor; "resembles Satsuma" P: self-pollinating V: Clementine (a.k.a. Algerian) C: mandarin H: T: small-to-medium, weeping habit, dense foliage R: early F: medium-size, red-orange skin, peels easily, sweet, juicy P: best when pollinated by Dancy, Kinnow, Orlando, Valencia V: Dancy C: mandarin H: hardy T: medium-to-large R: mid-season (Dec-Jan) F: medium-size, red-orange skin, distinctive oblate shape, easily F: peeled & segmented; rich flavor, pleasant aroma P: N: the quintessential tangerine, does best in Florida V: Encore C: mandarin H: T: medium, upright/spreading habit R: late season F: colorful speckled rind, easily peeled, rich and juicy P: V: Fairchild C: mandarin H: T: medium, rounded R: very early F: medium-size, sweet and juicy P: N: "best in the low deserts of California and Arizona" V: Honey C: mandarin H: T: medium-to-large, vigorous, spreading R: early F: yellow-orange skin, small to medium, very sweet P: N: beware of name confusion; many varieties of fruit are sold N: as "Honey tangerines"; Murcott and Minneola are sometimes N: called Honey or Honeybell V: Kara C: mandarin H: T: medium-large drooping tree with large, dark green leaves R: late F: medium-large, flavorful P: N: "best in interior California" V: Kinnow C: mandarin H: very hardy T: large, columnar R: mid-season F: medium-size, juicy, rich P: V: Lee C: H: T: R: F: P: V: Mediterranean (a.k.a. Willowleaf) C: mandarin H: hardy T: small-to-medium, spreading, with small narrow leaves R: F: medium-small, sweet, aromatic P: N: "hardy, but needs a very hot climate for best fruit" V: Minneola C: tangelo H: hardy T: medium-large, vigorous R: Dec-Jan F: large; thick red-orange skin; distinct "neck"; rich, tangy P: best when pollinated by Dancy, Clementine, Kinnow, Valencia V: Murcott C: tangor ?? H: semi-sensitive T: medium, upright R: Jan-Mar F: thin yellow-orange skin, medium-size, juicy, sweet P: N: slightly susceptible to scab fungus V: Nova C: mandarin H: T: R: F: medium-large, orange rind P: V: Orlando C: tangelo (Duncan grapefruit X Dancy tangerine) H: "more cold-tolerant than Minneola" T: cupped leaves R: Nov-Jan F: orange rind, medium-large, juicy, mildly sweet P: best when pollinated by Dancy, Clementine, Kinnow, Temple V: Page C: "resembles a sweet orange, but technically a mandarin" H: T: medium, round, dense foliage R: early F: small-to-medium, rich flavor P: V: Ponkan C: H: hardy T: R: Dec-Jan F: peels easily, "delicious but will not ship" P: V: Robinson C: mandarin H: hardy T: R: early (Oct-Dec) F: medium-size, orange or yellow-orange skin, juicy but bland P: best when pollinated by a tangelo or tangor N: susceptible to twig dieback; an inferior variety in my opinion V: Satsuma C: mandarin H: very hardy T: medium-small, slow-growing, dark leaves R: Sep-Nov F: yellow-orange skin, medium-size, mildly sweet P: V: Sunburst C: H: hardy T: R: Nov-Dec F: bright color, sweet P: best when pollinated by other varieties V: Temple C: tangor H: sensitive T: medium-small, bushy R: Jan-Mar F: medium-large, peelable, seedy, juicy, rich flavor P: self-pollinating N: somewhat susceptible to scab V: Wilking C: mandarin H: hardy T: small-to-medium, dense foliage R: F: medium-size, juicy, rich flavor P: N: alternate-bearing (heavy production every other year) ========================================================================== Rick Harrison 71174.2735@compuserve.com peora.sdc.ccur.com!jwt!bbs-hrick From 71174.2735@CompuServe.COM Fri Apr 23 22:42:16 1993 Date: 23 Apr 93 17:29:13 EDT From: Rick Harrison <71174.2735@CompuServe.COM> To: Subject: Tangerine FAQ [revised] A DIRECTORY OF MANDARINS / TANGERINES AND THEIR HYBRIDS 1993.04 Rick Harrison, PO Box 54-7014, Orlando FL 32854, USA Internet e-mail: 71174.2735@compuserve.com phone: 407-645-3031 Mandarins/tangerines are citrus fruits and trees of the species _Citrus_reticulata_ Blanco. They are distinguished from other citrus species by the relatively loose skin of the fruits, the relative ease with which the segments can be separated, and (in most cultivars) the green cotyledons. Most varieties also contain chemical compounds not found in other citrus species: _thymol_ in the leaves and _tangeretin_ in the fruits. Some experts consider the varieties King, Satsuma, Cleopatra and Ponkan to be separate species unto themselves. If you live in an area that doesn't have hard freezes, you can grow tangerine trees outdoors; they usually require little attention after they have established themselves. In colder areas, they can be grown in greenhouses or in portable containers. Although I am trying to gather data on all known varieties, I have limited this list to varieties readily available in the United States and varieties of commercial importance elsewhere. hardiness = tolerance to cold; season = when the fruit is ripe (this varies depending on climate); holds = how well the fruit lasts on the tree after maturing; size, shape, base, apex, etc. = description of fruit +-----------+ | mandarins | +-----------+ variety: Clementine (a.k.a. Algerian) tree: medium, spreading or weeping habit, nearly thornless leaves: dark green above and lighter on underside; dense foliage season: Dec Jan Feb holds: well size: medium, diam. 2 to 2.5, height 2 to 2.75 shape: globose to ovoid, somewhat irregular base: evenly rounded to slightly necked, with radiating furrows apex: depressed axis: large, hollow color: deep orange-red surface: smooth, glossy, slightly pitted rind: medium thick, 1/8 to 3/16, loose oil glands: prominent, large, elliptical, depressions over primary ones segments: 8 to 12, slight adherence pulp: tender, melting, deep orange flavor: sweet seeds: 0 to 6, medium size, oblong to fusiform; embryo pistache green history: discov in Algeria, came to FL 1909 notes: seedless and self-fertile in some relatively arid climates, but requires pollination from Dancy, Kinnow, Orlando, Valencia in FL; produces best fruit in deserts of California and Arizona; an important commercial variety in the Mediterranean area variety: Cleopatra (a.k.a. Spice) tree: low, spreading, dense foliage, attractive leaves: small, dark green season: Jan Feb size: small, up to 2 inch diam. shape: oblate base: flat apex: depressed, generally navel marked color: deep red-orange surface: somewhat rough rind: very loose, up to 1/8 thick pulp: coarse-grained, orange flavor: tart seeds: numerous, small history: came from Jamaica to Florida before 1888 notes: used as rootstock for other varieties; possibly identical with Ponki, which is used as a rootstock in Japan variety: Dancy (formerly a.k.a. Moragne, Bijou) hardiness: hardy tree: medium-large, erect, nearly thornless leaves: broadly lanceolate, 3 to 4.75 inches long season: Nov Dec Jan holds: fair size: medium, diam. 2.25 to 3, height 1.5 to 2.125 shape: oblate base: usually necked, more or less corrugated apex: broadly depressed color: deep red-orange surface: smooth, glossy rind: thin, 1/8 to 3/16, leathery, easily removed segments: 10 to 14, easily separated pulp: melting, tender, dark orange vesicles: short, broad, relatively large flavor: rich and sprightly, pleasant aroma seeds: 6 to 20, short, blunt or beaked; cotyledons pistache green history: introduced into cultivation 1871 notes: Does best in Florida. Recently this variety's susceptibility to alternaria has been a problem in commercial groves. variety: Dweet category: mandarin (hybrid: Dancy x Mediterranean) tree: medium, open habit season: late size: medium-large shape: ovoid with a slight neck color: red-orange flavor: rich notes: does well in coastal and interior California variety: Emperor season: Nov Dec Jan Feb size: large, avg. diam. 2.5, height 1.75 shape: oblate, sometimes has a "neck" color: pale orange base: sometimes necked rind: moderately thin, easy to peel segments: 9 to 10, sometimes irregular pulp: pale orange color seeds: 10 to 16, long and pointed notes: widely grown in Australia early in 20th century variety: Encore category: mandarin (hybrid: King x Mediterranean) tree: medium, upright/spreading habit, few or no thorns season: Mar Apr May Jun holds: well color: yellow-orange speckled with dark orange-to-brown spots rind: easily peeled flavor: rich seeds: many history: introduced by University of California at Riverside; consumers often assume the dark spots on the rind are a sign of decay variety: Honey category: mandarin (hybrid: King x Mediterranean) tree: medium-to-large, vigorous, spreading season: early holds: well size: small to medium color: yellow-orange rind: easily peeled flavor: very sweet seeds: many notes: beware of name confusion; Murcott tangors are sometimes called "Honey tangerines"; Minneola is a.k.a. Honeybell. Honey is a commercial variety in California. variety: Kara category: mandarin (hybrid: Owari Satsuma x King) hardiness: sensitive tree: medium, vigorous, spreading, nearly thornless leaves: large, dark green, with drooping habit season: Mar Apr May holds: fair size: medium, diam. 2 to 3, height 2.125 to 2.75 shape: medium oblate to nearly globose, often somewhat conical color: orange surface: moderately grained rind: thin-to-medium, 1/8 to 1/5, loose, tough oil glands: numerous, medium size; oil is abundant, aromatic flavor: rich flavor, strong pleasant unique aroma seeds: 12 to 20, plump, yellow-tinged or yellow-green cotyledons history: H B Frost, CA Citrus Experiment Station, 1935 notes: best in interior California; sometimes grown for its juice variety: King (a.k.a. King of Siam) hardiness: hardy tree: upright, medium size, relatively open foliage leaves: large, 3 to 4.25, broadly lanceolate, margins slightly crenate season: Mar Apr May size: large, diam. 2.5 to 3.75, height 2.25 to 3.5 inches shape: oblate to near spherical base: rounded or somewhat necked, wrinkled with short radiating furrows apex: flattened or depressed, marked by characteristic areole color: yellow-orange to orange surface: rough and bumpy rind: thick, 3/16 to 5/16, tight but easily removed oil glands: large, depressions over main ones give finely pitted appearance flavor: rich and sprightly seeds: 5 to 15 or more, fusiform, plump, beaked, white cotyledons history: from Saigon to Riverside CA 1880; to Winter Park FL 1882 notes: susceptible to sun scald due to thin foliage, limb breakage due to over-bearing; might be identical to Kunenbo grown in Japan variety: Kinnow category: mandarin (hybrid: King x Willow-leaf) hardiness: very hardy tree: vigorous, large, erect, dense leaves: medium size, rather thin and pliable season: Jan Feb Mar Apr holds: well size: medium, diam. 2.125 to 3, height 2 to 2.5 shape: slightly oblate color: deep yellow-orange surface: smooth, glossy, easily scars rind: thin, 1/8, leathery, fairly easy to peel oil glands: conspicuous, oil is abundant and aromatic flavor: rich, high sugar and moderate acid, unique pleasant aroma seeds: 12 to 24, medium size, yellowish cotyledons history: H B Frost, CA Citrus Experiment Station, 1935 notes: reportedly has outstanding flavor, attractive appearance; probably will do better in CA and AZ than in FL variety: Pixie category: mandarin (offspring of Kincy) tree: medium-large, with erect open habit season: Apr May Jun size: small to medium color: yellow-orange rind: easily peeled flavor: mild seeds: none variety: Ponkan (a.k.a. Warnurco, Chinese Honey Orange, Batangas) hardiness: hardy? tender? (different sources give different data) tree: small, upright season: Nov Dec holds: fair size: large, diam. 2.75 to 3.25 shape: globose to oblate base: flattened or somewhat necked, with irregular furrows apex: deeply depressed, with radiating furrows, sometimes with navel axis: large, hollow color: orange surface: smooth or finely papillate rind: medium thick, loosely adherent flavor: sweet, aromatic seeds: few, small, plump, nearly smooth; green embryos history: from China to FL 1892 variety: Satsuma (a.k.a. Unshiu) hardiness: very hardy (to 12'F when dormant) tree: small to medium, spreading, slow-growing leaves: (depends on strain) season: Sep Oct Nov size: medium to large shape: oblate to spherical or slightly conical color: orange to yellow-orange surface: slightly rough rind: thin, 1/8 to 3/16, tight but easily peeled oil glands: large and numerous flavor: good, low acid seeds: few history: originated in Japan circa 1600, Japan to USA 1876 notes: pulp ripens before rind changes color; there are many different strains, including Owari, Wase, Ikeda, Mikado; rootstock and soil influence fruit quality; mutations and throwbacks common variety: Wilking category: mandarin (hybrid: King x Willow-leaf) hardiness: hardy tree: medium, vigorous, columnar, dense leaves: medium size, up to 4.75 inches long season: Jan Feb Mar Apr holds: fair size: medium, diam. 2.125 to 3.125, height 1.75 to 3 shape: oblate color: deep yellow-orange surface: coarsely grained to nearly smooth rind: thin to medium, 1/8 to 1/6, brittle, loose oil glands: medium size, numerous, conspicuous; oil abundant, aromatic flavor: rich, good, high sugar, moderate acid, distinctive aroma seeds: 10 to 17, mostly plump, yellow-green cotyledons history: developed by H Frost, CA Citrus Experiment Station, 1935 variety: Willow-leaf (a.k.a. Mediterranean, China) hardiness: hardy tree: small to medium, broad, with fine willowy branches leaves: small, narrow, lanceolate season: Nov Dec Jan holds: poorly size: medium, diam. 2 to 2.5, height 1.75 to 2.25 shape: oblate to globose color: yellow-orange surface: smooth, glossy, segmentation visible rind: thin, 1/16 to 1/8, loose flavor: sweet, flavorful, distinctly aromatic seeds: 15 to 20 history: from Italy to Louisiana circa 1845 notes: needs a hot, non-humid climate for best fruit +-----------------------------+ | tangerine x tangelo hybrids | +-----------------------------+ variety: Fairchild category: (hybrid: Clementine x Orlando) tree: medium, rounded, dense, nearly thornless season: early holds: fair size: medium-size color: deep orange flavor: sweet, rich seeds: many history: developed by J R Furr, released 1964 notes: does best in the low deserts of California and Arizona; needs to be pollinated by other mandarins for best production variety: Lee category: (hybrid: Clementine x Orlando) hardiness: hardy season: Oct Nov Dec size: medium surface: smooth rind: adherent flavor: good history: developed by F E Gardner, released by USDA 1959 notes: pulp ripens before peel develops full orange color variety: Nova category: (hybrid: Clementine x Orlando) season: early size: medium to large shape: oblate color: orange rind: medium-thick, adherent but peelable history: developed by F E Gardner, released by USDA in 1964 variety: Page category: (hybrid: Minneola x Clementine) tree: medium, round, dense foliage, few thorns season: Nov Dec holds: well size: small-to-medium shape: nearly spherical (can pass for an orange) color: orange rind: medium-thin flavor: rich history: developed by F E Gardner, released by USDA 1963 notes: produces best fruit when pollinated by other varieties; "great choice for fresh juice lovers" variety: Robinson category: (hybrid: Clementine x Orlando) hardiness: hardy season: Oct Nov Dec color: yellow-orange to orange size: medium flavor: mild (actually _bland_ in my humble opinion) history: developed by F E Gardner, introduced in 1959 notes: best when pollinated by a tangelo or tangor; susceptible to twig and stem dieback variety: Sunburst category: (hybrid: Robinson x Osceola) hardiness: hardy season: Nov Dec Jan flavor: sweet history: introduced in 1979, developed by Dr. C. Jack Hearn notes: best when pollinated by other varieties; resistant to citrus snow scale; vulnerable to citrus rust mite +----------+ | tangelos | +----------+ variety: K-Early category: probably a tangelo season: early -- the earliest mandarin notes: developed by H J Webber and W T Swingle; fruit tends to be bitter, with low sugar and low acid; grown by unscrupulous producers who get a high price for early fruit; K-Early looks like Orlando tangelo, and the resulting guilt-by-association has reduced the commercial market for Orlando tangelos variety: Minneola (a.k.a. Honeybell) category: tangelo (Duncan x Dancy) hardiness: hardy tree: medium-large, vigorous, round leaves: dark green, large season: Dec Jan Feb holds: well size: large shape: globose-ovoid with distinct "neck" color: red-orange rind: thick, brittle flavor: rich, tangy seeds: less than 10 on average notes: best when pollinated by Dancy, Clementine, Kinnow, Temple variety: Orlando (a.k.a. Lake) category: tangelo (Duncan x Dancy) hardiness: "more cold-tolerant than Minneola" tree: dark, distinctively cupped leaves season: Nov Dec Jan size: medium-large color: orange rind: strongly adherent flavor: mildly sweet history: bred by W T Swingle in 1911, released in 1931 notes: best when pollinated by Dancy, Clementine, Kinnow, Temple; will grow in deserts of CA and AZ variety: Seminole category: tangelo (Dancy x Duncan) tree: medium to large, vigorous season: Feb Mar Apr holds: fair size: medium-large color: red-orange rind: easily peeled flavor: sprightly, tangy seeds: many (22 average) history: released 1931 +---------+ | tangors | +---------+ variety: Ambersweet category: tangor+ ([Clementine x Orlando] x sweet orange) hardiness: hardy season: Oct Nov size: 3 to 3.5 diam. variety: Fallglo category: (hybrid: Bower x Temple) season: Oct Nov history: released by USDA 1987 variety: Murcott category: tangor hardiness: semi-sensitive tree: medium, upright season: Jan Feb Mar size: medium color: yellow-orange surface: smooth and somewhat glossy rind: thin, tight but peelable flavor: sweet, rich seeds: 18 to 24 history: probably the result of Swingle's breeding experiments, the parent tree lost its identification tag in transit to Safety Harbor FL in 1913. notes: slightly susceptible to scab fungus and xyloporosis variety: Tangerona category: tangor hardiness: sensitive season: Sep Oct size: small shape: roundish oblate color: yellow-orange rind: tight flavor: (reportedly) excellent seeds: many history: from Brazil to FL circa 1890 variety: Temple category: probably a tangor (parents unknown) hardiness: tender tree: spreading, bushy, somewhat thorny leaves: medium size season: Jan Feb Mar Apr holds: fair size: medium-large, diam. 2.5 to 3.25, height 2.25 to 2.5 shape: oblate to spherical color: orange to red-orange surface: slightly pebbled or rugose rind: medium thick, 1/8 to 3/16, loose and peelable, leathery oil glands: spherical to elliptical segments: 10 to 12 pulp: tender, melting, orange vesicles: medium size, fusiform flavor: rich and spicy seeds: average 20, medium, plump history: originated in Winter Park FL, distrib Buckeye Nurseries 1917 notes: somewhat susceptible to scab variety: Umatilla category: tangor (Owari Satsuma x Ruby orange) season: late size: large color: red-orange surface: smooth history: bred by W T Swingle in 1911, released in 1931 notes: good quality; fruit is size and shape of King +--------------+ | bibliography | +--------------+ Hume, H. Harold; Citrus fruits and their culture; 1904 Jackson, Larry K.; Citrus growing in Florida; 3rd edition, University of Florida Press, 1991 Sturrock, David; Fruits for southern Florida; Southeastern Printing Co, 1959 Webber & Batchelor, editors; The citrus industry -- history, botany and breeding; University of California, 1943 */ end of file /*