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Re: Tomato wilt
hogs2deb@aol.com (Hogs2Deb) wrote:
>I have a large garden and my tomatoes have all wilted and died back, the
>leaves turning yellow with dark green or brown spots.
>The fruits--there are many--still ripen and seem okay. This began in late
>July, happens every year, and I am frustrated. I have used fungicides and
>purchase disease resistant varieties, but still have problems. I always
>rotate crops, of course, allowing three or four years before I plant
>tomatoes in a spot where they've been planted before.
>This year, I broke the plants up into clusters, spread them out in the
>garden, and allowed several feet between. Same problem.
>Please e-mail solution to hogs2deb@aol.com.
>THANKS FOR THE HELP!
Do you know what version(s) of wilt you are suffering from? Fusarium
and verticillium are both fungal diseases, and can produce spores that
will survive in the soil for 10-15 years. "Resistant" varieties of
tomato may be resistant to one or both strains of fusarium,
verticillium, or any of the other diseases to which tomatoes are
subject. The resistant varieties you've tried may be resistant to the
wrong disease. (Johnny's Seeds has a good key describing the diseases
to which each cultivar they offer is resistant.)
Asside from long rotations -- the longer the better, as every
additional year reduces the surviving spore population -- plant health
and vigour is the best way I know to combat disease. The healthier
your soil, the healthier and more resistant your plants will be.
Perhaps a soil test will reveal some difficiencies which, if remedied,
may have a marked affect on your plants. As always, the levels of
organic matter and soil biota are of particular importance.
Finally, cleanliness is important, and as I'm sure you're aware, crop
residues from infected plants should not be used for compost unless
you can ensure a very hot composting to kill the fungus. (Still
pretty risky though.)
I hope this helps,
Regards, j
--
say no to cars.
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