Article 8887 of misc.rural:
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From: tonyp@convex.com (tony j. podrasky)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: 1-800-Llamas
Date: 4 May 1994 17:54:42 GMT
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Well, that's not EXACTLY the phone number...  :-) 

There is an ad in the Pet Trader:

    If you would like to know more about
    these unique animals call for a free
    brochure and events calendar.

The Llama Association of Southern California
P.O. Box 931 
Escondido, California
                92033

1-800-763-5438


I don't know if this phone number will work outside California.

regards,
honey bunny

--
    Tony J. Podrasky        You don't TUG on Superman's cape,
     San Diego , Ca         You don't SPIT in the wind,
    tonyp@convex.com        You don't PULL the mask off the ol' Lone Ranger
QSL? QRU? QRZ? QLZ? QFA?    And....                                  - J.C.


Article 112 of triangle.gardens:
Newsgroups: triangle.gardens
Path: samba!concert!sas!mozart.unx.sas.com!sasdmh
From: sasdmh@hiker.unx.sas.com (David Hall)
Subject:  2,4-D and Dogs
Originator: sasdmh@hiker.unx.sas.com
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I got this off the CANINE-L listserve.  Thought it might be of interest
to those of you with dogs.  Can anyone verify this report?  (Makes me
glad I went "organic" years ago!)

>Subject:      Cancer-causing weed killer (repost from obed)
>To: Multiple recipients of list CANINE-L <CANINE-L@psuvm.psu.edu>
>Status: OR

>From: xx660@medina.CWRU.EDU

>  Cancer-causing weed killer.

>   Researchers from the National Cancer Institute have found a link
>   between a widely used lawn chemical and a form of cancer in dogs.

>   The researchers compared the home environments of 500 dogs with
>   malignant lymphoma with those of healthy canines. Dogs with
>   cancer were more likely to have played in yards where the
>   grass had been treated with the herbicide 2,4-D.

>   Previous studies have shown increases in non-Hodgkin's
>   lymphoma among farmers who use this weed killer.

>--
> Transmitted by Medina Kennel Club Special Interest Group on
> Medina County Freenet System.  xx660@medina.freenet.edu
> SysOp, Linda DeFoor. Co-SysOp Chris Schnitz, Claudette Confer, Bob Combs.
> At the prompt type   Go Dog.   Thank you for visiting our Sig.




Article 776 of alt.sustainable.agriculture:
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From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture,rec.gardens,misc.rural
Subject: Re: 2,4-D and Dogs
Message-ID: <1993May10.143442.13071@iscsvax.uni.edu>
Date: 10 May 93 14:34:42 -0600
References: <C6nsI1.3CF@unx.sas.com> <1993May8.015356.22345@samba.oit.unc.edu>
Organization: University of Northern Iowa
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In article <1993May8.015356.22345@samba.oit.unc.edu>, london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London) writes:
> In article <C6nsI1.3CF@unx.sas.com> sasdmh@hiker.unx.sas.com 
> I got this off the CANINE-L listserve.  Thought it might be of interest
> to those of you with dogs.  Can anyone verify this report?  (Makes me
> glad I went "organic" years ago!)
>>   Previous studies have shown increases in non-Hodgkin's
>>   lymphoma among farmers who use this weed killer [2,4-D].

Can't comment on the dog studies, but I do know that there have been a
number of studies confirming high use of commercial 2-4-D preparations
and higher rates of non-Hodgkin's lymphoma in farmers.   The only study 
I recall on farmers' families who were not handling concentrated 2,4-D 
showed no really strong link to any cancers.

Kay Klier  Biology Dept  UNI


Article 779 of alt.sustainable.agriculture:
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From: Richard Clapp <rclapp@igc.apc.org>
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Date: 10 May 93 07:45 PDT
Subject: Re: 2,4-D and Dogs
Message-ID: <1738700007@igc.apc.org>
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Following is the bibliographic information and the abstract of the
study in questions:

Hayes HM, Tarone RE, Cantor KP, Jessen CR, McCurnin DM, and
Richard RC.  "Case-control study of canine malignant lymphoma:
positive association with dog owner's use of
2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid herbicides."  Journal of the
National Cancer Institute (JNCI), 83(17): 1226-1231.  September 4,
1991.

Three of the authors are from NCI; the others are from colleges of
veterinary medicine (Minnesota, Colorado, Purdue).

"A hospital-based case-control study of companion dogs examined
the risk of developing canine malignant lymphoma associated with
the use of chemicals in and about the home.  Information from a
self-administered owner questionnaire and/or a telephone interview
of about 491 cases, 466 nontumor controls, and 479 tumor controls
indicated that owners in households with dogs that developed
malignant lymphoma applied 2,4-D herbicides to their lawn and/or
employed commercial lawn care companies to treat their yard
significantly more frequently than control owners (odds ratio =
1.3).  In addition, the risk of canine malignant lymphoma rose to
a twofold excess with four or more yearly owner applications of
2,4-D.  The findings in this study are consistent with
occupational studies in humans, which have reported modest
associations between agriculture exposure to 2,4-D and increased
risk of non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, the histology and epidemiology of
which are similar to those of canine malignant lymphoma.  The
present study suggests that human health implications of 2,4-D
exposure in the home environment should receive further
investigation."

-------------------------------------

Incidentally, 2,4-D is known to be contaminated with several
dioxins.  Dioxin is not only a carcinogen, but has serious effects
on the immune system, and on reproduction and development.  There
is an extensive literature on the subject, not only on lymphoma
but on other cancers as well.  In dogs, a study of military dogs
in Vietnam showed an excess of testicular cancer, presumably due
to exposure to the herbicide Agent Orange (contaminated with
dioxin).

We have on file hundreds of articles on effects on humans of
various pesticides.  A recent study of particular interest is the
following:

Davis JR, Brownson RC, Garcia R, Bentz BJ and Turner A.  "Family
pesticide use and childhood brain cancer."  Archives of
Environmental Contamination and Toxicology, 24: 87-92, 1993.

"The relationship between family pesticide use and childhood brain
cancer was examined in a case control-study.  Telephone interviews
were conducted from June 1989 through March 1990 with the natural
mothers of 45 childhood brain cancer cases, 85 friend controls,
and 108 cancer controls.  In comparisons to friend controls,
significant positive associations were observed for use of
pesticides to control nuisance pests in the home, no-pest strips
in the home, pesticide to control termites, Kwell shampoo, flea
collars on pests, diazinon in the garden or orchard, and
herbicides to control weeds in the yard.  In general, positive
associations in comparisons to one control group were supported by
elevated odds ratios in comparisons to the other control group.
Several potentially important associations were identified in this
study."

Mary Firestone

JSI Center for Environmental Health Studies

210 Lincoln Street

Boston, MA  02111

E-mail: rclapp@igc.org

Phone: (617) 482-9485

FAX: (617) 482-0617



Article 780 of alt.sustainable.agriculture:
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From: behlert@nyx.cs.du.edu (Brian Ehlert)
Subject: Re: 2,4-D and Dogs
Message-ID: <1993May11.121310.2912@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>
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Date: Tue, 11 May 93 12:13:10 GMT
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one note:

In any of these studies about 2,4-D and dogs  the ownsers with the higher
rates of lymphoma let their dogs run on the wet grass.  The key word is
WET.  Either soon after treatment or early in the morning soon after
treatment.

2,4-D is a very effective plant growth regulator when used properly and
that is the key.  The public tends to assume a lot of things about
pesticides, both good and bad.  But the average american homeowner mind
set is that if a little is good, more is better.  It is a lack of
education on EVERYONES part.

- Bri



From hn3551@handsnet.orgThu Aug 17 17:03:07 1995
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 95 20:10:55 GMT
From: hn3551@handsnet.org
To: sanet-mg@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Livestock Breeds


Here's the contact information for ALBC:

American Livestock Breeds Conservancy
PO Box 477
Pittsboro, NC 27312
919-542-5704



Sent: August 17, 1995	1:06 pm PDT	Item: R00CKgQ
From ncarroll@wolf.ces.ncsu.edu Thu Jul 28 12:39:19 1994
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 1994 08:49:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Nancy Carroll <ncarroll@wolf.ces.ncsu.edu>
To: sanet <sanet-mg@ces.ncsu.edu>
Subject: "Taking Stock: The North American Livestock Census"

The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy (ALBC) announces the 
publication of "Taking Stock: The North American Livestock
Census."

"Taking Stock" uses a national inventory of breeds to describe
the status of livestock genetic diversity in the United States. 
The book considers the impact of current agricultural trends on
these genetic resources, describes the significance of livestock
for sustainable agriculture and makes the case for livestock
conservation.

"Taking Stock" reports on asses, cattle, goats, horses, sheep and 
swine, with information on all breeds within each species, graphs
to illustrate genetic status and breed association addresses.  
Appendices describe the past extinctions of American breeds and 
present data on feral livestock populations.  (Poultry will be
the subject of a 1994-1995 census.)

The report identifies 77 breeds as conservation priorities, about
30 of which are unique to North America.  They include American
Mammoth Jackstock, Milking Devon cattle, Fainting goats, Spanish
Mustangs, Navajo-Churro sheep and Ossabaw Island swine.  Also of
great importance are those globally endangered international
breeds for which the North American population is a significant
portion, such as Cotswold sheep, Red Poll cattle and Tamworth
swine.

These domestic breeds have become rare due to agricultural 
industrialization and the decline of the diversified farm.  Yet 
because these breeds are divergent from modern industrial types,
they are well suited to today's sustainable, organic and
low-input farms and represent significant genetic diversity for
the future.

"Taking Stock: The North American Livestock Census" is available
from the ALBC for $14.95, plus $2 postage to North America or $6
airmail to other countries.  To order, send a check or money
order, payable in U.S. funds, to:  ALBC, P.O. Box 477, Pittsboro,
NC 27312 USA.  Call (919) 542-5704 or fax (919) 542-2460 to
charge your order to Mastercard or Visa.  For more information,
contact Don Bixby or Carolyn Christman at the ALBC.

The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy is a nonprofit
membership organization conserving genetic diversity by
protecting endangered livestock and poultry breeds from
extinction.  In addition to investigations of breed status and
characteristics, ALBC operates a semen bank for rare breeds,
provides technical support to breeders and associations and
supports an extensive education program to expand public advocacy
for livestock use and conservation.  The ALBC is the only
livestock genetic conservation organization in the United 
States.


From awalker@gamma.is.tcu.edu Mon Sep 26 23:10:15 EDT 1994
Article: 1731 of sci.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!convex!news.tcu.edu!gamma.is.tcu.edu!awalker
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Subject: Re: Boer Goat information please
Message-ID: <24SEP199417535562@gamma.is.tcu.edu>
From: awalker@gamma.is.tcu.edu (ABRAHAM WALKER)
Date: 24 Sep 1994 17:53 CDT  
References: <3619kn$lps@news.tamu.edu>
Distribution: usa
Organization: Texas Christian University
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In article <3619kn$lps@news.tamu.edu>, sdb5196@tamucc.edu (samuel d blackstock) writes...
>we are looking for anyone doing studies on the above mentioned breed of 
>goat. and or anyone studying the ABV average breeding Value of embryos of 
>purebred goat livestock.
>sdb5196@tamucc.edu
>samuel blackstock
>po box 81196
>corpus christi
>texas 78468

You might contact the "American Meat Gaot Association", at P.O. Box 979
Mertzon, Tx.  76941.  




From jrw@aracnet.com Wed Apr  3 14:57:27 EST 1996
Article: 26620 of misc.rural
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From: jrw@aracnet.com (Joyce Reynolds-Ward)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Araucanas
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 17:00:52 GMT
Organization: Not a lot..:)
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References: <314D6790.41C67EA6@jax.org> <1996Mar19.150432.1865@leo.vsla.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp-m4.aracnet.com
X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #4

In article <1996Mar19.150432.1865@leo.vsla.edu>,
   mpritche@leo.vsla.edu (Marge Pritchett) wrote:
>Can you tell me a little about the araucanas? Are they easy to
>keep, layers, etc.? I heard that their eggs are a delicate
>blue-green. Thanks
>I'll check this post for a follow-up.

Marge,

The Araucanas my family kept twenty-five years ago were interesting chickens. 
 The first one came in a batch of Rhode Island Red chicks we'd gotten for 
replacement layers for the family flock...Mom and I wondered about the 
strange, Leghorn-built red hen with gray face bearding.  When she started 
laying pale blue eggs, we REALLY started wondering....

Overall, my experience with Araucanas is that they are somewhat like to 
Banties in their inclination to fly.  Body build is predominantly 
Leghorn-like.  Comb styles vary from single, pea or rose comb.  They are good 
at scratching and foraging, also like to Banties in that respect.  Their 
temperment ranges from flighty and nervous to reasonably mellow.  One of the 
nicest-tempered roosters we had was a black, silver and green Araucana.  He 
was gentle with the hens, nice toward humans and really good about calling his 
ladies to any interesting bug and worm collections he found.  Colors also 
vary, depending on whether they're pure or crossed with other breeds.  Eggs 
are either pale blue, olive green, or pale pink (different from the regular 
brown shell of the Reds or Barred Rocks).

Hope this helps.

jrw


From beefalo@primenet.com Sat Jan 27 22:52:38 EST 1996
Article: 4633 of alt.agriculture.misc
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From: "M. Counides" <beefalo@primenet.com>
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
Subject: Re: Raising Show Steers and heifers
Date: 21 Jan 1996 11:51:02 -0700
Organization: Primenet
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You are quite correct I do not live in England.  I am in the state of 
Idaho in the USA.  Beefalo is a registered crossbreed of American Buffalo 
and various beef breeds including limosin. It is very hardy, low fat and 
calving ease like bison but easy to handle and faster maturity like the 
beef.  

I guess I am asking how animals are groomed?  How are they supposed to 
walk and stand?  What do judges look for?

Naomi Counides
Associated Beefalo of Idaho  



From gil@landmark.DIALix.oz.au Mon Nov 14 19:34:32 EST 1994
Article: 2129 of sci.agriculture
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Message-ID: <95@landmark.DIALix.oz.au>
References: <39rj8b$kjv@clark.edu>
Reply-To: gil@landmark.DIALix.oz.au (Gil Hardwick)
From: gil@landmark.DIALix.oz.au (Gil Hardwick)
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 1994 10:09:45 GMT
Subject: Re: RATITES
Lines: 25

 
In article <39rj8b$kjv@clark.edu>, Michael Mattox (mmattox@clark.edu) writes:
>
>I plan to put together an educational/informational CD that would cover 
>as much as possible in the area of Ranching these birds from Breeder 
>selection, incubating, hatching, grow-out, slaughter, marketing, and sales.

Sorry about the few days delay, Michael, I needed to chase this up.

You might also like to contact:

          The Secretariat
          Australian Ostrich Association
          PO Box 286
          Jamison Centre
          ACT  2614
          Australia


Best of luck with your project,
          
Gil




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Australia +61 97 53 3270


From x1larche@exnet.iastate.edu Fri Dec  2 22:42:28 EST 1994
From: x1larche@exnet.iastate.edu (L. C.  Arche)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Subject: Re: Agricultural Extension
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 1994 14:00:53
Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa


Go ahead and order the Cow Calf Handbook.  For $75 dollars, you'll get 
everything they have in the files, and updates also.    IF your serious about 
cattle,  you'll be pleased.

L.C. Arche,  from San Antonio
"They can't make hot sauce up here, either"



From sjmoore@interlog.com Fri Mar 31 22:51:28 EST 1995
Article: 16458 of misc.rural
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From: sjmoore@interlog.com (Steven Moore)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: "Dexter" cows ????
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 07:34:18 -0500
Organization: Moore Partners Ltd.
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In article <3l6ssp$1emk@bigblue.oit.unc.edu>, rdrob@med.unc.edu (Ricky
Roberson) wrote:

> Talked to a lady yesterday that owns "Dexter" cattle.  She said that they
> were an old Irish breed.  They have short legs and are built somewhat
> smaller than a lot of other breeds I've seen. 
> 
> I'm interested in getting one mainly for a "pet" cow.  I'll probably get a
> bull calf, bottle-feed it, and either band it or have it castrated.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has any more info on the "Dexter" breed?  Any info
> would be appreciated.
> 
> Rick
> 
> rdrob@med.unc.edu

Dexter is a wonderful breed, as is Kerry, and well-suited for your
purposes. Earl and Winona Crapp, 1519 Villiers Line, RR1, Keene, Ontario
K0L 2G0 phone (705) 295-6536 are breeders of Dexter cattle. They may be
able to tell you of a breeders association in your area.

Also, You could try Joywind Farms Rare Breeds Conservancy, General
Delivery, Campbellford, Ontario K0L 1L0, phone (705) 653-0231 or fax (705)
653-0232.
-- 
Cheers...Steven 

   Steven Moore - Freelance Writer
          sjmoore@interlog.com


From ron@mlfarm.com Wed Nov 23 22:58:41 EST 1994
Article: 13455 of misc.rural
Newsgroups: misc.rural,misc.answers,news.answers
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From: Ronald Florence <ron@mlfarm.com>
Subject: Lambing FAQ
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Archive-name: rural/lambing-faq
Last-modified: ron@auda.mlfarm.com, 19 Nov 1994
Version: 1.3

	       Frequently Asked Questions About Lambing

	Copyright 1992, 1994 Ronald Florence <ron@mlfarm.com>


1.  What equipment and supplies do I need for lambing?

    If everything goes right, and it does most of the time, you need
    nothing more than:

    - a pair of surgical scissors, available from a drug store or
      vet supply;

    - a wide-mouthed bottle of 7% iodine solution;

    - a clean, dry, bedded pen for the ewe and her lamb(s).  The
      dimensions can range from 4x4 feet for smaller breeds to 5x5 feet
      for larger breeds, with a water bucket and a hay feeder for each
      pen.  For a small flock, plan on one pen for every five ewes; a
      larger flock can get by with one pen for every seven ewes.  

    It's a good idea to have the following available, just in case:

    - a baby bottle (4 or 8 oz.); use a heated needle to expand the
      hole in the nipple;

    - a tube feeder; vet supply houses sell them, or you can buy a
      rubber catheter and large syringe from a drug store;

    - a hair-dryer and/or a heat lamp;

    - 60cc. syringes, 20ga. needles, and a sterile solution of
      electrolytes with 5-10% glucose added;

    - shoulder-length plastic examining gloves;

    - a rubber or plastic bowl and Ivory liquid soap or an
      obstetric/vaginal lubricant;

    - Penicillin & syringes, or antibiotic vaginal boluses;

    - frozen colostrum from an earlier birth, from a goat or cow,
      or an artificial colostrum mix;

    - warm, dry towels.


2.  How do I know when a ewe is ready to lamb?

    No two ewes manifest the same signs.  Some wander off to a far
    corner of a pasture, or find a corner of the barn where they can
    be alone.  Some will go off food.  Most will `drop': as the
    position of the uterus shifts lower in their bodies, hollow areas
    appear in their flanks; this is sometimes hard to see in older
    ewes, who are `dropped' most of the time.  Ewes usually `bag out'
    as milk develops in the udder within a day or two of lambing.
    When the ewe goes into labor, she may paw the ground as if digging
    a nest, and is often restless, getting up, circling or moving to a
    new spot, lying down, and repeating the cycle.  As she moves
    further into labor, you can see contractions, the water (amnion)
    will often break, and she may grit her teeth in pain.


3.  What do I have to do for a `normal' birth?

    Most ewes can handle things pretty well.  Within four hours of the
    onset of labor, the ewe will deliver a lamb and set to cleaning
    and mothering it.  The vigorous licking is important stimulation
    to the lamb, and helps trigger hormones that accelerate the
    development of milk, contractions for twins or triplets, and the
    afterbirth.  If you're there when the lamb is born -- and you
    should try to be -- clear any mucus from the lamb's nose and make
    sure it is breathing.  If it isn't, tickle the nostrils with a
    piece of straw.  If that doesn't work, grab the lamb by both back
    legs and gently swing it in a vertical circle over your head; the
    up and down movement of the diaphragm as the lamb swings is an
    efficient artificial respiration.  Some shepherds use oxygen or
    even mouth-to-nose respiration to start a lamb.  Most lambs need
    little help beyond a tickle with straw.  Then, allow the mother a
    few minutes to mother her lamb, before you CLIP, DIP, and STRIP.

    - CLIP the lamb's umbilical cord within an inch of the lamb's
      navel.
    - DIP the umbilical cord in the iodine solution, making sure it it
      thoroughly covered with iodine.  Some shepherds use a Terramycin
      spray instead of the iodine dip.
    - STRIP the ewe's teats, to make sure the wax plug is gone and
      milk (actually colostrum) comes out.

    You may want to weigh the lamb, and on a very cold night, a
    hair-dryer on the lamb's ears, or a heat lamp, can help a chilled
    lamb.  Be careful with heat lamps: ewes knock them over, starting
    barn fires, and too much time under the heat lamp can encourage
    pneumonia.  For a really chilled lamb, some shepherds use a heat
    box with a hole for a hair-dryer, or a bucket of warm water to
    submerge the lamb (except the head, of course).  Try not to wash
    or dry the lamb too much; letting the ewe do the work stimulates
    the lamb and encourages bonding between them.

    When the ewe is finished lambing, which can take a while for twins
    or triplets, gently drag the lambs into the lambing pen.  The ewe
    will follow the trail of smells in the bedding.  She will want a
    bucket of water (warm if possible, adding a few tablespoons of
    molasses will encourage her to drink) and a nice tab of hay.  She
    won't need grain for a day or two, but should have free choice hay
    and plenty of water.  When you spot the afterbirth, usually from
    an hour to eight hours after birth, remove it from the pen.


4.  How do I know if the ewe is going to have twins or triplets?

    Sometimes you can tell in advance from the size and shape of the
    ewe.  If another lamb is coming, the ewe may get restless again,
    walking away from her lamb, or lying down with contractions.  The
    second (or third) amnion may break with another flood of fluid.
    If a bag of reddish fluid and a white worm-like tissue appears, it
    probably means she is not going to have any more lambs that year.
    Sometimes the only way to be sure whether there is another lamb is
    to physically examine the ewe with a glove and lubricant.  Unless
    something seems to be awry, it's best not to interfere.


5.  What do I do if the ewe rejects her lamb?

    Some rookie mothers don't know what to do; they drop a lamb and
    walk away as if they had just pooped.  Putting the lamb in front
    of their noses, or putting them into a pen with the lamb is
    usually enough.  You may have to help the lamb nurse the first
    time.  It usually works better to nudge the lamb from behind, the
    way a ewe does, than to drag it to a teat.  Tickling the lamb's
    bottom when it has the teat in its mouth is often enough to get it
    sucking.  A wagging tail on the lamb, or the belly going in and
    out, is a sure sign the lamb is getting milk (actually colostrum
    the first day).

    Some mothers will reject a lamb, often one of twins or triplets.
    If you hold the ewe so the lamb can nurse, either manually or by
    putting her in a stanchion, after several days the ewe will
    usually begin to accept the lamb.  The key for the ewe is the
    smell of the back end of the lamb; after a few days, the ewe will
    detect her own milk in the lamb's feces.  Another trick is to
    bring a dog into the barn.  Often, the instinct to protect the
    lamb from the dog is strong enough to reestablish the bond of ewe
    and lamb.  If the mother bashes the lamb as well as not allowing
    it to nurse, you may have to take it away and bottle feed it.

    Grafting a lamb to another mother, because the first mother lacks
    milk or has too many lambs, is tricky.  There are many techniques:
    bathing the graftee in amniotic fluids from the new mother, a
    stanchion for forced nursing, tying the feet of an older lamb so
    it won't seem too active, skinning a dead lamb (the way you skin a
    rabbit) and placing the skin over the lamb you want to graft.
    Some shepherds have had luck inflating a balloon in the adopting
    ewe's vagina, which apparently tricks her into thinking she is
    giving birth again.  Whatever the technique, it takes patience and
    luck.  Sometimes a ewe will initially allow the lamb to nurse,
    then later figure out that it isn't her lamb and reject it.

    If there is any chance a lamb may end up a bottle baby, it is a
    good idea to give it a bottle or two fairly early.  Lambs that
    have known only a ewe's teat sometimes are tough to train to a
    bottle.


6.  What if the lamb can't or won't nurse?

    Make sure the ewe has colostrum by milking each teat.  If the ewe
    wasn't shorn before lambing, or crutched, you may need to use hand
    shears to clear some of the dung locks away so the lambs can find
    the teats.  Lambs aren't the brightest little creatures, and will
    often suck away on a tag of wet fleece instead of the teat.

    The lamb may be too small, too cold, or too weak to nurse.  Put
    your finger in the lamb's mouth to see if it is strong enough to
    suck.  If it sucks on the finger, milk 2-4 ounces of colostrum
    from the mother into a baby bottle.  Then, using a nipple that has
    had the hole widened with a hot needle, feed the lamb two ounces
    at a time.  One or two feedings of colostrum may be enough to jump
    start the lamb.

    If the lamb is too weak to suck on your finger, tube feed two
    ounces of colostrum.  You can buy ready-made tube feeders from vet
    supply houses, or make your own from a surgical catheter and a
    large syringe.  Lubricate the tube with oil or warm water, measure
    how much tube it takes to reach the lamb's rumen, and slide it
    down gently.  Stop frequently and hold a wet finger over the other
    end of the tube; if you feel air coming out, you're in the trachea
    or lungs; pull out and start again.  A really weak lamb may be
    dehydrated.  You can inject 30-50 ml. of 5-10% dextrose solution
    subcutaneously, in three or four spots (10 ml. each) along the
    back and sides to rehydrate the lamb.

    Whatever procedure or combination of procedures you follow, the
    lamb needs feedings of colostrum for the first eight to twelve
    hours.  If the mother doesn't have any, use frozen colostrum saved
    from a ewe with a single lamb, colostrum from goats or cows, or an
    artificial colostrum.


7.  How can I tell if a birth isn't going right?

    If a ewe has been in labor for four hours without dilating enough
    to deliver a lamb, if the lamb appears in an unbroken amnion, or
    if you see indications of a presentation other than the normal two
    front feet and the nose of the lamb together, the ewe may need
    help.

    If the cervix of the ewe remains tight after prolonged labor,
    careful manual massage may help, or she may need an injection of
    Oxytocsin to induce contractions and to relax the cervix.  If the
    lamb seems to be coming, and the presentation is correct, rolling
    the ewe on her side, or onto the other side, can tip things enough
    to ease the birth.

    If a lamb appears in an unbroken amnion, use a fingernail to
    gently break the the sack AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE.  The danger is
    that the lamb will take a breath inside the sack and drown.

    If the presentation of the lamb is wrong, you will need to help.
    Make sure your fingernails are cut short, put on one or two long
    obstetric examining gloves, and lubricate your gloved hand and arm
    in warm water with dissolved Ivory soap, or with an obstetric
    lubricant.  The ewe should be on her back or her side, with an
    assistant holding her back legs.  Even ewes who are normally shy
    are often cooperative when you're helping them with lambing, but
    you want to hold her still.  Ease up when she has a contraction,
    so you aren't fighting her; the contractions are strong enough to
    clamp hard on your arm.  You will be working by feel, so try to
    imagine what is connected with what as you GENTLY work your
    fingers into the vaginal canal.

    Some presentations are relatively easy.  If one leg and the head
    are in the birth canal, you can usually turn the lamb slightly and
    ease one shoulder out.  If the lamb is in breech position (fanny
    first), pull it out quickly so it doesn't drown in amniotic fluids
    when the cord breaks.  If the presentation is head first without
    the front legs, don't try to pull the lamb out.  Instead, gently
    push the head back in and sort out the hooves so they come out the
    canal with the head.  Sometimes twins are tangled.  Gently sort
    the head and hooves of the twin closest to the cervix into a
    proper presentation.  It's a good idea for a person with a
    relatively small hand to do the job.  Above all, be GENTLE; the
    tissues are delicate, and perforation of the uterus or birth canal
    is almost certainly fatal.  Some presentations, like a transverse
    lamb at the cervix, are jobs for an experienced vet.

    If you have intervened, even with a sterile glove, you probably
    want to give the ewe either a uterine antibiotic bolus or an
    injection of Penicillin afterwards.


8.  What do I do if the ewe prolapses?

    There are three kinds of prolapse that can affect a ewe.  During
    gestation, the growth of lambs can cause the vagina or rectum to
    prolapse, an unfortunate consequence of large lambs and good
    nutritional programs.  An occasional bulge of pink flesh that
    emerges from the vulva when the ewe lies down and retracts when
    she gets up and walks around may not be cause for concern, but
    keep an eye on her.  If a grapefruit-sized mass of red flash
    protrudes and stays out, the ewe needs immediate attention.

    To treat vaginal prolapse, pen the ewe and raise her rear legs
    (standing her back legs on a bale of hay works) to relieve the
    pressure.  Wash the protruding flesh with mild soap and water and
    replace it gently, watching out that your fingernails don't tear
    the tender flesh.  There are three options for holding the
    prolapse in place.  You can take stitches in the top and bottom of
    the vulva, using a quick-release knot that can be pulled out at
    birth.  _The TV Vet Sheep Book_ (Farming Press Ltd.) recommends
    this technique and shows how to do it.  Another choice is the
    plastic prolapse retainers sold by the vet supply houses; the
    instructions say to tie twine from the ends of the retainer to the
    ewe's wool, but it is easier and more secure to put a bell collar
    on the ewe and run tight twine ties from the collar to the
    prolapse retainer.  A third option is a twine harness for the ewe,
    a procedure described in Ron Parker, _The Sheep Book_ (Ballantine,
    1984).  Many shepherds believe the tendency toward vaginal
    prolapse is hereditary and a good reason to cull the ewe and her
    lambs.

    A ewe can prolapse the entire uterus after birth.  This is a
    situation for a vet, but in a pinch you can carefully wash the
    protruding uterus, sprinkle it with sugar to make it shrink, and
    carefully replace it.  The ewe should be treated with antibiotics
    afterward.  A partially expelled afterbirth looks much like the
    inside of the uterus.  Be careful not to confuse them.


9.  What medications do the ewe and lamb need after birth?

    Ewes are susceptible to a rise in worms after lambing, and should
    be given a dose of wormer the next day.  If you had to intervene
    to assist with the birth, the ewe may need an antibiotic series.
    If the afterbirth isn't expelled within twelve hours, you may want
    to give the ewe an injection of Oxytocsin.

    Local conditions will determine what, if any, medication the lambs
    need.  If you didn't dip the navel in iodine immediately after
    birth, you may want to give the lambs a precautionary injection of
    Penicillin.  If your pastures and feed are selenium-deficient, and
    you've had lambs develop white-muscle disease, you may want to
    inject lambs with BOSE (Selenium & vitamin E supplement); the
    minimum recommended dose of 2ml. may be too much for a newborn.
    If you've had pneumonia problems with lambs, you may want to
    administer PI-3, a nasal vaccine approved for cows, at birth.  If
    the ewes weren't vaccinated with CD/T before lambing, you should
    vaccinate the lambs early; otherwise, wait until the lambs are at
    least a month old before their first vaccination with CD/T.  The
    tetanus part of CD/T may only be necessary if you have equines on
    your farm or other indications of tetanus.

    Watch for entropion, a turned-in eyelash (usually the lower) that
    irritates the lamb's eye and produces profuse tearing.  Some
    shepherds recommend injecting 0.5ml of Penicillin into the lower
    eyelid to force the lash away from the eye.  An easier procedure,
    which often works, is to manually roll the eyelash out several
    times a day while the lambs are in the pens.

    A few days after birth, and before the lambs are out of the
    lambing pens, you will want to band or cut the tails, apply ear
    tags or tattoos, and possibly castrate ram lambs that are not
    going to be bred.


10. How long should the lambs and mothers stay in the lambing pens?

    A veteran with a strong single lamb could come out after
    twenty-four hours.  Rookies, and ewes with multiple lambs, should
    stay in for two or three days, until the ewes have thoroughly
    bonded with their lambs.  Sometimes, if you let them out early,
    the lambs can get lost, or ewes can forget their lambs in the rush
    for feeders.  You might have to put them back for another day or
    two.  If you have a large flock of rambunctious ewes, you may want
    to move new mothers and lambs to a calm nursery area for a few
    days before they rejoin the flock.

    After the ewe and lambs leave the pen, clean it out as much as
    possible, lime thoroughly with hydrated lime, and rebed with fresh
    straw before the next tenants move in.


11. What do I do with orphans (bummers)?

    Lambs without mothers, or whose mothers don't have enough milk for
    them, can be raised on milk-replacer.  For the first twelve hours,
    the lambs should have only colostrum.  Then, one option is to put
    them in a pen with free-choice cold milk-replacer from a bucket
    with nipples.  The other choice is to feed warm milk-replacer from
    a bottle, which will allow the lamb to stay with its mother, who
    may have some milk.  The lamb will probably learn to sneak milk
    from other mothers too.  For the first few days, the lamb
    shouldn't get more than four ounces per feeding, six times a day.
    You can then gradually increase the amount and decrease the number
    of feedings per day.  After two weeks, two or three bottles a day
    is plenty.  Baby bottles work best for little lambs.  Later, beer
    or soda bottles with lamb nipples are fine.  More than 12-16
    ounces in a feeding is likely to induce scours.  Unless you like
    chasing lambs all hours of the night with a bottle, encourage
    bottle babies to eat grain and leafy alfalfa in the creep as young
    as possible, so you can wean them early.

    Some lambs need a little help but not a complete bottle regimen.
    The runt of triplets, or even of twins, may need a bottle or two a
    day to keep up.  You can usually see when one lamb isn't getting a
    fair share; hungry lambs are often hunched up, they cry; if
    they're really hungry, their mouths will be cold.  Sometimes a
    bottle or two will get them going again, or they may need a bottle
    or two a day.


12. What care do lactating ewes need?

    A good ewe pours so much of the nutrition she consumes into
    producing milk that it is difficult for her to maintain her
    weight.  You want to give her energy-rich grain, a pound a day for
    ewes with singles, as much as two pounds per day for ewes with
    twins and triplets, along with free-choice of the highest protein
    hay you have, such as good leafy alfalfa or early-cut timothy, and
    plenty of clean fresh water.  If you're lambing in late spring,
    the ewes may do fine on fresh pasture.  You should also check the
    udders of the ewes daily, watching for signs of mastitis.  A hot
    red bag, or a cold blue bag, are bad signs.  If you detect
    mastitis, treat as soon as possible with antibiotics, both
    systemic and applied directly by teat infusion.  It may help to
    milk out a bad teat.


13. Are there any human health concerns related to lambing?

    Pregnant ewes fed on silage are susceptible to listeriosis, also
    called `circling disease,' which can cause abortions.  The
    organism which causes listeriosis is transmissible to humans.  The
    UK Department of Health recommends that pregnant women avoid
    contact with pregnant ewes, lambing, newborn lambs, milking, and
    afterbirths in sheep flocks susceptible to listeriosis.

    Toxoplasmosis, a coccidial organism carried by domestic cats, can
    cause late abortion in ewes or result in dead or weak lambs.  The
    coccidia can cause encephalitis in pre-natal children. Pregnant
    women should avoid contact with the aborted lambs and with cats
    that might carry toxoplasmosis.


14. Do I need a barn for lambing?  What about lambing in the pasture?

    Pasture lambing, with the potential savings of equipment and
    labor, is more and more popular, now that the demise of the Wool
    Incentive Act has lowered the margins for sheep farming.  A
    pasture is a clean environment, and except in the most extreme
    weather, a well-fed ewe can take care of her lambs on a pasture.
    You should check on newborn lambs to make sure they're nursing,
    and perhaps to dip their navels in iodine.  You may want to erect
    a temporary lambing pen for the ewe and lamb(s), or bring the ewe
    and lambs into a shelter for the first few days.  Other ewes who
    have not yet lambed may try to `adopt' the new lambs, and fighting
    marauders off can exhaust a ewe who has just delivered.  Newborn
    lambs are also prime prey for coyotes.  A temporary shelter or pen
    also gives you a chance to watch for nursing problems, scours or
    other neonatal concerns, and keeps the lambs nearby for
    injections, tail docking, castration, and ear tagging.


15. Why do ewes need help lambing?  Wild animals do it without help.

    Sheep aren't wild animals anymore.  The sheep we raise have been
    bred to produce multiple-births and big, fast-growing lambs.
    Usually, they can give birth without help, and do a marvelous job
    of taking care of their lambs.  When the lambs are too big, or if
    there are more lambs than the mother's milk can support, we help
    out.  In return, we get the pleasure of watching the miracle of
    birth and one of the strongest and loveliest bonds in nature.


16. Who wrote this FAQ?

    The author is Ronald Florence <ron@mlfarm.com>, who raises
    Cotswold sheep in Stonington, Connecticut.  Additional material
    was contributed by Warner Granade <jwg2y@virginia.edu> and Paul
    Isaac <paul@terminus.ericsson.se>.
-- 

				Ronald Florence


From ron@mlfarm.com Tue Feb  6 21:39:18 EST 1996
Article: 24735 of misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.columbia.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.msfc.nasa.gov!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!connix.com!mlfarm!ron
From: Ronald Florence <ron@mlfarm.com>
Newsgroups: misc.rural,misc.answers,news.answers
Subject: Lambing FAQ [6.1]
Supersedes: <lambing_818054101@mlfarm.com>
Followup-To: poster
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 05:15:05 GMT
Organization: Maple Lawn Farm, Stonington, CT
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Expires: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 05:15:01 GMT
Message-ID: <lambing_823497301@mlfarm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mlfarm.connix.com
Summary: Frequently Asked Questions (and answers) about lambing, and
	the care of ewes and lambs, for small producers and hobby farms.
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu misc.rural:24735 misc.answers:3327 news.answers:62186

Archive-name: rural/lambing-faq
Last-modified: 29 Jan 1996


	       Frequently Asked Questions About Lambing
               ----------------------------------------


Changes since <lambing_818054101@mlfarm.com>: 
	heat lamp precautions
	repeated tube feedings	
	lighting
	lime for the maternity warde and lambing pens
	testing ventilation in the barn
	antibodies in aged ewes

Contents:

   1.  Care of the Ewe Before Lambing
   2.  Gestation Problems
   3.  Equipment and Supplies
   4.  Signs of Readiness
   5.  Normal Procedures
   6.  Twins & Triplets
   7.  Rejected Lambs
   8.  Nursing Problems
   9.  Problem Births
   10. Timing Births
   11. Aged Ewes
   12. Drying Off Ewes
   13. Prolapses
   14. Medications
   15. Lambing Pens
   16. Orphans
   17. Care of Lactating Ewes
   18. Human Health Concerns
   19. Pasture Lambing
   20. Are Sheep Wild Animals
   21. Credits
   22. Copyright


This FAQ is organized as a digest.  You can move to the next question
with the digest commands in most newsreaders, or search for subjects
listed in the contents.

-------------------------------
Subject: Care of the Ewe Before Lambing

1.  What special care do ewes require before lambing?

    If you use a marking harness on your ram(s) during breeding, or if
    you have been very observant and recorded breeding dates, you can
    add five months to the date when the ewe was last bred to predict
    when she will lamb.  The exact gestation period varies by breed,
    from 142-154 days.  For our Cotswolds, we use 150 days to predict
    lambing.

    For the first three and a half months of gestation, fetal lamb
    growth is slow.  A generous ration of nutritious and palatable hay
    like alfalfa, clover or timothy, or a less-nutritious hay with a
    small supplement of protein-rich grain, is sufficient nutrition
    for the ewe.  Feeding ewes too much during early gestation may get
    them over-conditioned, which is uneconomical and can be unhealthy
    for the ewe when the lambs begin their growth spurt.  If you can
    feel a heavy layer of fat along the backs of your ewes, they are
    probably over-conditioned.

    The last six weeks of gestation is the period of rapid growth of
    the fetal lambs.  If you are feeding timothy or alfalfa hay
    free-choice, start giving the ewes approximately 1/2 pound of
    grain per day; with less-nutritious hays you may need to feed more
    grain.  4-6 weeks before lambing is a good time for vaccinations:
    a CD/T booster, and BO-SE or a vitamin-E supplement if you have
    had problems with white-muscle disease or if your hay is grown on
    selenium-deficient soils.  If you have had problems with
    abortions, or if the problem is common in your area, your vet may
    recommend that you vaccinate against enzootic and/or vibrionic
    abortion.

    One month before lambing is a good time to shear ewes.  With the
    fleece out of the way, lambing is easier for the shepherd, the
    barn is roomier and warmer (all that body heat is shared instead
    of being held in by the fleece), nursing is easier for the lambs,
    and the ewes require smaller lambing pens.  If the ewes are not
    shorn before lambing, crutch the vulva and udder areas, and watch
    out for breaks in the wool from nutritional deficiencies late in
    gestation.

    Make sure the barn or lambing area is clean and well-ventilated.
    Test the ventilation by smelling on your hands and knees.  Often
    barns that smell fine five feet up have a strong ammonia buildup
    at the level of sheep and especially lambs.  If you have a bedding
    pack built up, it is a good idea to spread hydrated lime and clean
    straw in what will become the maternity ward and lambing pen area.

-------------------------------
Subject: Gestation Problems

2.  What problems should I watch for during gestation?

    The commonest risk to pregnant ewes is Pregnancy Toxemia (twin
    lamb disease, ketosis), which typically manifests itself in older
    ewes carrying multiple lambs, or extremely thin or fat ewes.  The
    symptoms are dullness, lagging behind the flock, teeth grinding,
    frequent urination, and unsteadiness; in later stages of the
    disease, the ewe goes down, and her breath smells like acetone
    (nail polish remover).  Pregnancy Toxemia is caused by a diet
    deficient in energy late in pregnancy; the ewe uses up her sugar
    reserves, turns to her body fat, and the resulting metabolism
    releases ketones, which accumulate in the bloodstream.
    Overfeeding early in pregnancy can aggravate the condition.
    Pregnancy toxemia can sometimes be treated by administration of
    intravenous glucose and oral glycerin or propylene glycol, but is
    frequently fatal.  It can be avoided with a proper feeding
    program.

    Chlamydiosis, which produces enzootic abortions in ewes, is highly
    contagious.  If it is a risk in your area -- your vet will know --
    there are vaccines available.  Because of the contagious
    potential, including transmission to humans, exercise extreme care
    with aborted fetuses and tissues.  The incubation period is 60-90
    days after infection.  Vibriosis, which has similar symptoms, is
    difficult to distinguish from Chlamydiosis except in the
    laboratory.  The vaccine is different, so it is important to
    carefully transport a fresh or frozen aborted fetus to a qualified
    pathology lab for diagnosis.

    Hypocalcemia (milk fever) is caused by the huge demands for
    calcium a near-term lamb makes on the ewe.  The usual symptoms are
    that the ewe goes off her food, her ears are ice cold, her muscles
    stiffen, she goes down, and bloat may set in.  The condition
    responds spectacularly to subcutaneous injection of 50-100 cc of
    calcium borogluconate solution.  Hypocalcemia can be prevented by
    adequate liming of pastures and hayfields, and by avoiding sudden
    changes in feed.


-------------------------------
Subject: Equipment and Supplies

3.  What equipment and supplies do I need for lambing?

    If everything goes right, and it does most of the time, you need
    nothing more than:

      - a pair of surgical scissors, available from a drug store or
	vet supply;

      - a wide-mouthed bottle of 7% iodine solution;

      - a clean, dry, bedded pen for the ewe and her lamb(s).  The
	dimensions can range from 4x4 feet for smaller breeds to 5x5
	feet for larger breeds, with a water bucket and a hay feeder
	for each pen.  For a small flock, plan on one pen for every
	five ewes; a larger flock can get by with one pen for every
	seven ewes.

    It's a good idea to have the following available, just in case:

      - a baby bottle (4 or 8 oz.); use a heated needle to expand the
	hole in the nipple;

      - a tube feeder; vet supply houses sell them, or you can buy a
	rubber catheter and large syringe from a drug store;

      - a hair-dryer and/or a heat lamp;

      - 60cc. syringes, 20ga. needles, and a sterile solution of
	electrolytes with 5-10% glucose added;

      - shoulder-length plastic examining gloves;

      - a rubber or plastic bowl and Ivory liquid soap or an
	obstetric/vaginal lubricant;

      - Penicillin & syringes, or antibiotic vaginal boluses;

      - frozen colostrum from an earlier birth, from a goat or cow,
	or an artificial colostrum mix; the easiest source is to
	milk out and freeze extra colostrum from a ewe with a single
	lamb;  

      - warm, dry towels.


-------------------------------
Subject: Signs of Readiness

4.  How do I know when a ewe is ready to lamb?

    No two ewes manifest the same signs.  Some wander off to a far
    corner of a pasture, or find a corner of the barn where they can
    be alone.  Some will go off food.  Most will `drop': as the
    position of the uterus shifts lower in their bodies and hollow
    areas appear in their flanks; this is sometimes hard to see in
    older ewes, who are dropped most of the time.  Ewes usually `bag
    out' as milk develops in the udder a day or two before lambing.
    When the ewe goes into labor, she may paw the ground as if digging
    a nest, and is often restless, getting up, circling or moving to a
    new spot, lying down, and repeating the cycle.  As she moves
    further into labor, you can see contractions, the water (amnion)
    will often break, and she may grit her teeth.


-------------------------------
Subject: Normal Procedures

5.  What do I have to do for a `normal' birth?

    Most ewes can handle things pretty well; patience is often more
    productive than intervention if nothing looks awry.  Within four
    hours of the onset of labor, the ewe will deliver a lamb and set
    to cleaning and mothering it.  The vigorous licking is important
    stimulation to the lamb, and helps trigger hormones that
    accelerate the development of milk, contractions for remaining
    twins or triplets, and the expulsion of the afterbirth.  If you're
    there when the lamb is born -- and you should try to be -- clear
    any mucus from the lamb's nose and make sure it is breathing.  If
    it isn't, tickle the nostrils with a piece of straw.  If that
    doesn't work, pick the lamb up by both back legs and gently swing
    it in a vertical circle over your head; the up and down movement
    of the diaphragm as the lamb swings is an efficient artificial
    respiration.  Some shepherds use oxygen or even mouth-to-nose
    respiration to start a lamb.  

    Most lambs need little help beyond a tickle with straw.  Then,
    allow the mother a few minutes to mother her lamb, before you
    CLIP, DIP, and STRIP.

    - CLIP the lamb's umbilical cord within an inch of the lamb's
      navel.
    - DIP the umbilical cord in the iodine solution, making sure it it
      thoroughly covered with iodine.  Some shepherds use a Terramycin
      spray instead of the iodine dip.
    - STRIP the ewe's teats, to make sure the wax plug is gone and
      milk (actually colostrum) comes out.

    You may want to weigh the lamb, and on a very cold night, a
    hair-dryer on the lamb's ears, or a heat lamp, can help a chilled
    lamb get up to speed.  Be careful with heat lamps: use only
    porcelain sockets and heavy duty cords, and keep them at least 36
    inches from bedding or other flammable materials.  Even with every
    precaution, ewes knock lamps over, starting barn fires, and too
    much time under the heat lamp can encourage pneumonia.  For a
    really chilled lamb, some shepherds use a heat box with a hole for
    a hair-dryer, or a bucket of warm water to submerge the lamb
    (except the head, of course).  Try not to wash or dry the lamb too
    much; letting the ewe do the work stimulates the lamb and
    encourages bonding between them.

    When the ewe is finished lambing, which can take a while for twins
    or triplets, gently drag the lambs into the lambing pen.  The ewe
    will follow the trail of smells in the bedding.  She will want a
    bucket of water (warm if possible, adding a few tablespoons of
    molasses will encourage her to drink) and a nice tab of hay.  She
    won't need grain for a day or two, but should have free choice hay
    and plenty of water.  When you spot the afterbirth, usually from
    an hour to eight hours after birth, remove it from the pen.


-------------------------------
Subject: Twins & Triplets

6.  How do I know if the ewe is going to have twins or triplets?

    Sometimes you can tell in advance from the size and shape of the
    ewe.  If another lamb is coming, the ewe may get restless again,
    walking away from her lamb, or lying down with contractions.  The
    second (or third) amnion may break with another flood of fluid.
    If a bag of reddish fluid and a white worm-like tissue, or the
    afterbirth itself, appears, it probably means she is not going to
    have any more lambs that year.  Sometimes the only way to be sure
    whether there is another lamb is to physically examine the ewe
    with a glove and lubricant.  Unless something seems to be awry,
    it's best not to interfere.


-------------------------------
Subject: Rejected Lambs

7.  What do I do if the ewe rejects her lamb?

    Some rookie mothers don't know what to do; they drop a lamb and
    walk away as if they had just pooped.  Putting the lamb in front
    of their noses, or putting them into a pen with the lamb is
    usually enough.  You may have to help the lamb nurse the first
    time.  It usually works better to nudge the lamb from behind, the
    way a ewe does, than to drag it to a teat.  Tickling the lamb's
    bottom when it has the teat in its mouth is often enough to get it
    sucking.  A wagging tail on the lamb, or the belly going in and
    out, is generally a reliable sign the lamb is getting milk
    (actually colostrum the first day).

    Some mothers will reject a lamb, often one of twins or triplets.
    If you hold the ewe so the lamb can nurse, either manually or by
    putting the ewe in a stanchion, after several days the ewe will
    usually begin to accept the lamb.  The key for the ewe is the
    smell of the back end of the lamb; after a few days, the ewe will
    detect her own milk in the lamb's feces.  Another trick is to
    bring a dog into the barn.  Often, the instinct to protect the
    lamb from the dog is strong enough to reestablish the bond of ewe
    and lamb.  If the mother bashes the lamb as well as not allowing
    it to nurse, you may have to take it away and bottle feed it.

    Grafting a lamb to another mother, because the first mother lacks
    milk or has too many lambs, is tricky.  Some techniques include:
    bathing the graftee in amniotic fluids from the new mother, a
    stanchion for forced nursing, tying the feet of an older lamb so
    it won't seem too active, skinning a dead lamb (the way you skin a
    rabbit) and placing the skin over the lamb you want to graft.
    Some shepherds have had luck inflating a balloon in the adopting
    ewe's vagina, which apparently tricks her into thinking she is
    giving birth again.  Whatever the technique, it takes patience and
    luck.  Sometimes a ewe will initially allow the lamb to nurse,
    then later figure out that it isn't her lamb and reject it.

    If there is any chance a lamb may end up a bottle baby, it is a
    good idea to give it a bottle or two fairly early.  Lambs that
    have known only a ewe's teat sometimes are tough to train to a
    bottle.


-------------------------------
Subject: Nursing Problems

8.  What if the lamb can't or won't nurse?

    Make sure the ewe has colostrum by milking each teat.  If the ewe
    wasn't shorn or crutched before lambing, you may need to use hand
    shears to clear some of the dung locks away so the lambs can find
    the teats.  Lambs aren't the brightest little creatures, and will
    often suck away on a tag of wet fleece instead of the teat.

    The lamb may be too small, too cold, or too weak to nurse.  Put
    your finger in the lamb's mouth to see if it is strong enough to
    suck.  If it sucks on the finger, milk 2-4 ounces of colostrum
    from the mother into a baby bottle.  Then, using a nipple that has
    had the hole widened with a hot needle, feed the lamb two ounces
    at a time.  One or two feedings of colostrum may be enough to jump
    start the lamb.

    If the lamb is too weak to suck on your finger, and especially if
    the lamb's mouth is cold, tube feed two ounces of colostrum.  You
    can buy ready-made tube feeders from vet supply houses, or make
    your own from a surgical catheter and a large syringe.  Lubricate
    the tube with a little mineral oil or warm water, measure how much
    tube it takes to reach the lamb's rumen, and slide it down gently.
    Stop frequently and hold a wet finger over the end of the tube; if
    you feel air coming out, you're in the trachea or lungs; pull out
    and start again.  A really weak lamb may also be dehydrated.  You
    can inject 30-50 ml. of 5-10% dextrose solution subcutaneously, in
    three or four spots (10 ml. each) along the back and sides to
    rehydrate the lamb.  You may need to tube feed at 2 or 3 hour
    intervals until the lamb is strong enough to nurse.

    Whatever procedure or combination of procedures you follow, the
    lamb needs feedings of colostrum for the first eight to twelve
    hours.  If the mother doesn't have any, use frozen colostrum saved
    from a ewe with a single lamb, colostrum from a goat or cow, or an
    artificial colostrum.  Frozen colostrum should be heated in a
    double-boiler, or by putting the bottle in a pan of heated water;
    avoid the microwave, which will kill the useful microbodies.


-------------------------------
Subject: Problem Births

9.  How can I tell if a birth isn't going right?

    If a ewe has been in labor for four hours without dilating enough
    to deliver a lamb, if the lamb appears in an unbroken amnion, or
    if you see indications of a presentation other than the normal two
    front feet and the nose of the lamb together, the ewe may need
    help.

    If the cervix of the ewe remains tight after prolonged labor,
    careful manual massage of the vulva may help, or the ewe may need
    an injection of Oxytocsin to induce contractions and to relax the
    cervix.  If the lamb seems to be coming, and the presentation is
    correct, rolling the ewe on her side, or onto the other side, can
    sometimes tip things enough to ease the birth.

    If a lamb appears in an unbroken amnion, use a fingernail to
    gently break the the sack AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE.  The danger is
    that the lamb will take a breath inside the sack and drown.

    If the presentation of the lamb is wrong, you will need to help.
    Make sure your fingernails are cut short, put on one or two long
    obstetric examining gloves, and lubricate your gloved hand and arm
    in warm water with dissolved Ivory soap, or with an obstetric
    lubricant.  The ewe should be on her back or her side, with an
    assistant holding her back legs up.  If you're alone, you can tie
    a length of baling twine to her back legs and loop it over your
    neck, or loop a rope over a beam in the barn.  Even ewes who are
    normally shy are often cooperative when you're helping them with
    lambing, but you want to hold her still.  Ease up when she has a
    contraction, so you aren't fighting her; the contractions are
    strong enough to clamp hard on your arm.  You will be working by
    feel, so try to imagine what is connected with what as you GENTLY
    work your fingers into the vaginal canal.  If you don't have an
    assistant to hold a light for you, try to arrange adequate
    lighting.  In a dark barn it is easy to confuse hooves and noses.

    Some presentations are relatively easy.  If one leg and the head
    are in the birth canal, you can usually turn the lamb slightly and
    ease one shoulder out.  If the lamb is in breech position (fanny
    first), pull it out quickly so it doesn't drown in amniotic fluids
    when the cord breaks.  If the presentation is head first without
    the front legs, don't try to pull the lamb out.  Instead, gently
    push the head back in and sort out the hooves so they come out the
    canal with the head.  Sometimes twins are tangled.  Gently sort
    the head and hooves of the twin closest to the cervix into a
    proper presentation.  It's a good idea for a person with a
    relatively small hand to do the job.  It often helps to close your
    eyes and imagine the lamb(s) inside the uterus; once you have a
    clear image of what goes where, you can figure out how to get one
    lamb at a time down the birth canal.  Above all, be GENTLE; the
    tissues are delicate, and perforation of the uterus or birth canal
    is almost certainly fatal to the ewe.  Some presentations, like a
    transverse lamb at the cervix, are jobs for an experienced vet.

    Even with complex presentations, unless the lamb is in breech
    position, patience is often rewarded.  Excessive or premature
    intervention can cause or aggravate problems that would otherwise
    work themselves out in time.  

    If you have intervened, even with a sterile glove, you probably
    want to give the ewe either a uterine antibiotic bolus or an
    injection of Penicillin afterwards.


-------------------------------
Subject: Timing Births

10. I can't be home in the daytime (or don't want to stay up all
    night).  Is there a way to get the ewes to lamb when I want them
    to instead of at all hours of the day and night?

    Maybe.  Ewes are creatures of habit.  Recent experiments suggest
    that shepherds can take advantage of the ewe's conditioned diurnal
    cycle to concentrate lambing at a convenient period of the day or
    night.  There are two parts to the program: 1) feeding the ewes at
    a consistent time every day; and 2) not providing any stimuli
    during the night that will confuse the cycle.  The latter means no
    unnecessary noise and no bright lights in the barn at night; all
    checking of the flock is done with a flashlight and quietly.  Ron
    Parker, in Minnesota, feeds his flock in the morning, follows the
    quiet regime at night, and reports that 85% of his ewes lamb in
    the daytime.  At Maple Lawn Farm we feed hay in the morning, grain
    at 5pm, follow the quiet regime in nighttime barn checks, and 90%
    of our lambs are born in the daytime or early evening.  With
    different feeds, breeds, climate, or barn setup, your mileage may
    vary.


-------------------------------
Subject: Aged Ewes

11. When is a ewe too old to keep?

    There is no fixed age for retirement.  Older ewes can be wonderful
    mothers and raise healthy, fast-growing lambs: the ewes will have
    built up a broad range of antibodies which they pass on, and the
    mothering instinct seems to grow stronger with time.  Eventually,
    old ewes get tired.  The uterus loses elasticity, the udder may
    lose capacity either through a bout with mastitis or just aging of
    the plumbing, and sometimes the muscle tissues of the abdomen get
    so weak that the weight of a lamb or lambs stretches the
    musculature beyond its ability to retension.  Some older ewes may
    not be able to deliver lamb(s) unaided, even with a normal
    presentation.  If an older ewe has trouble producing colostrum
    right after birth, giving her warm water with molasses and a
    little grain to build up her energy may help; kneading and
    massaging the udder, or banging it the way a lamb does, may also
    encourage the milk to drop down.  A loss of elasticity in the
    uterus, a permanent drop of the abdominal tissues, or an inability
    to produce colostrum or milk means it's time to cull the ewe.


-------------------------------
Subject: Drying Off Ewes

13. What do I do if the lamb(s) die?

    If a ewe loses her lambs, and you don't have another lamb to graft
    onto her, it is important to gradually reduce her production of
    milk.  The easiest procedure is to keep her in a pen, feeding her
    small rations of the lowest nutrition hay you have, and holding
    down her water intake.  Don't feed her any grain.  It may help to
    milk her out a few times.  If it is early enough, milk out and
    save her colostrum in the freezer for emergency use in future
    years.  When her bag is soft, you can put her onto a pasture, but
    avoid lush pasturage for a while.


-------------------------------
Subject: Prolapses

14. What do I do if the ewe prolapses?

    There are three kinds of prolapse that can affect a ewe.  During
    gestation, the growth of lambs can cause the vagina or rectum to
    prolapse, an unfortunate consequence of large lambs and good
    nutritional programs.  An occasional bulge of pink flesh that
    emerges from the vulva when the ewe lies down and retracts when
    she gets up and walks around may not be cause for concern, but
    keep an eye on her.  If a grapefruit-sized mass of red flash
    protrudes and stays out, the ewe needs immediate attention.

    To treat vaginal prolapse, pen the ewe and raise her rear legs
    (standing her back legs on a bale of hay works) to relieve the
    pressure.  Wash the protruding flesh with mild soap and water and
    replace it gently, watching out that your fingernails don't tear
    the tender flesh.  There are three options for holding the
    prolapse in place.  You can take stitches in the top and bottom of
    the vulva, using a quick-release knot that can be pulled out at
    birth.  _The TV Vet Sheep Book_ (Farming Press Ltd.) recommends
    this technique and shows how to do it.  Another choice is the
    plastic prolapse retainers sold by the vet supply houses; the
    instructions say to tie twine from the ends of the retainer to the
    ewe's wool, but it is easier and more secure to put a bell collar
    on the ewe and run tight twine ties from the collar to the
    prolapse retainer.  A third option is a twine harness for the ewe,
    a procedure described in Ron Parker, _The Sheep Book_ (Ballantine,
    1984).  Many shepherds believe the tendency toward vaginal
    prolapse is hereditary and a good reason to cull the ewe and her
    lambs.

    A ewe can prolapse the entire uterus after birth.  This is a
    situation for a vet, but in a pinch you can carefully wash the
    protruding uterus, sprinkle it with sugar to make it shrink, and
    carefully replace it.  The ewe should be treated with antibiotics
    afterward.  A partially expelled afterbirth looks much like the
    inside of the uterus.  Be careful not to confuse them.


-------------------------------
Subject: Medications

15. What medications do the ewe and lamb need after birth?

    Ewes are susceptible to a rise in worms after lambing, and should
    be given a dose of wormer the next day.  If you had to intervene
    to assist with the birth, the ewe may need an antibiotic series.
    If the afterbirth isn't expelled within twelve hours, you may want
    to give the ewe an injection of Oxytocsin.

    Local conditions will determine what, if any, medication the lambs
    need.  If you didn't dip the navel in iodine immediately after
    birth, you may want to give the lambs a precautionary injection of
    Penicillin.  If your pastures and feed are selenium-deficient, and
    you've had lambs develop white-muscle disease, you may want to
    inject lambs with BOSE (selenium & vitamin E supplement); the
    minimum recommended dose of 2ml. may be too much for a newborn;
    try 0.5ml.  If you've had pneumonia problems with lambs, you may
    want to administer PI-3, a nasal vaccine approved for cows, at
    birth.  If the ewes weren't vaccinated with CD/T before lambing,
    you should vaccinate the lambs early; otherwise, wait until the
    lambs are at least a month old before their first vaccination with
    CD/T.  The tetanus part of CD/T may only be necessary if you have
    equines on your farm or other indications of tetanus.

    Watch for entropion, a turned-in eyelash (usually the lower) that
    irritates the lamb's eye and produces profuse tearing.  Some
    shepherds recommend injecting 0.5ml of Penicillin into the lower
    eyelid to force the lash away from the eye.  An less-intrusive
    procedure is to manually roll the eyelash out several times a day
    while the lambs are in the pens.

    A few days after birth, and before the lambs are out of the
    lambing pens, you will want to band or cut the tails, apply ear
    tags or tattoos, and possibly castrate ram lambs that are not
    going to be bred.


-------------------------------
Subject: Lambing Pens

15. How long should the lambs and mothers stay in the lambing pens?

    A veteran with a strong single lamb could come out after
    twenty-four hours.  Rookies, and ewes with multiple lambs, should
    stay in for two or three days, until the ewes have thoroughly
    bonded with their lambs.  Sometimes, if you let them out early,
    the lambs can get lost, or ewes can forget their lambs in the rush
    for feeders.  You might have to put them back for another day or
    two.  If you have a large flock of rambunctious ewes, you may want
    to move new mothers and lambs to a calm nursery area for a few
    days before they rejoin the flock.

    After the ewe and lambs leave the pen, clean it out as much as
    possible, lime thoroughly with hydrated lime, and rebed with fresh
    straw before the next tenants move in.


-------------------------------
Subject: Orphans

16. What do I do with orphans (bummers)?

    Lambs without mothers, or whose mothers don't have enough milk for
    them, can be raised on milk-replacer.  For the first twelve hours,
    the lambs should have only colostrum.  Then, one option is to put
    them in a pen with free-choice cold milk-replacer from a bucket
    with nipples.  The other choice is to feed warm milk-replacer from
    a bottle, which will allow the lamb to stay with its mother, who
    may have some milk.  The lamb will probably learn to sneak milk
    from other mothers too.  For the first few days, the lamb
    shouldn't get more than four ounces per feeding, six times a day.
    You can then gradually increase the amount and decrease the number
    of feedings per day.  After two weeks, two or three bottles a day
    is plenty.  Baby bottles work best for little lambs.  Later, beer
    or soda bottles with lamb nipples are fine.  More than 12-16
    ounces in a feeding is likely to induce scours.  Unless you like
    chasing lambs all hours of the night with a bottle, encourage
    bottle babies to eat grain and leafy alfalfa in the creep as young
    as possible, so you can wean them early.

    Some lambs need a little help but not a complete bottle regimen.
    The runt of triplets, or even of twins, may need a bottle or two a
    day to keep up.  You can usually see when one lamb isn't getting a
    fair share: hungry lambs are often hunched up; they cry; if
    they're really hungry, their mouths will be cold.  Sometimes a
    bottle or two will get them going again, or they may need a bottle
    or two a day to supplement the mother's milk production.


-------------------------------
Subject: Care of Lactating Ewes

17. What care do lactating ewes need?

    A good ewe pours so much of the nutrition she consumes into
    producing milk that it is difficult for her to maintain her
    weight.  You want to give her energy-rich grain, a pound a day for
    ewes with singles, as much as two pounds per day for ewes with
    twins and triplets, along with free-choice of the highest protein
    hay you have, such as good leafy alfalfa or early-cut timothy, and
    plenty of clean fresh water.  If you're lambing in late spring,
    the ewes may do fine on fresh pasture.  Try to check the udders of
    the ewes daily, watching for signs of mastitis.  A hot red bag, or
    a cold blue bag, are bad signs.  If you detect mastitis, treat as
    soon as possible with antibiotics, both systemic and applied
    directly by teat infusion.  It may help to milk out a bad teat.


-------------------------------
Subject: Human Health Concerns

18. Are there any human health concerns related to lambing?

    Pregnant ewes fed on silage are susceptible to listeriosis, also
    called `circling disease,' which can cause abortions.  The
    organism which causes listeriosis is transmissible to humans.  The
    UK Department of Health recommends that pregnant women avoid
    contact with pregnant ewes, lambing, newborn lambs, milking, and
    afterbirths in sheep flocks susceptible to listeriosis.

    Toxoplasmosis, a coccidial organism carried by domestic cats, can
    cause late abortion in ewes or result in dead or weak lambs.  The
    coccidia can cause encephalitis in pre-natal children. Pregnant
    women should avoid contact with the aborted lambs and with cats
    that might carry toxoplasmosis.

    There is also risk for pregnant women from Chlamydia psittaci,
    an abortive agent for ewes which has an affinity for the human
    placenta and can prompt abortion or stillbirths.  Pregnant women
    should avoid any contact with an aborted lamb fetus.

    Salmonella typyhimurium (Salmonellosis), cryptosporidia, a
    protozoan disease which affects lambs and humans, and orf (sore
    mouth) are potential health dangers from sheep.  Appropriate
    hygiene -- keeping children away from lamb feces and sore mouth
    lesions -- is generally sufficient to prevent any problems.

-------------------------------
Subject: Pasture Lambing

19. Do I need a barn for lambing?  What about lambing in the pasture?

    Pasture lambing, with the potential savings of equipment and
    labor, is more and more popular, now that the demise of the Wool
    Incentive Act has lowered the margins for sheep farming.  A
    pasture is a clean environment, and except in the most extreme
    weather, a well-fed ewe can take care of her lambs on a pasture.
    You should check on newborn lambs to make sure they're nursing,
    and perhaps to dip their navels in iodine.  You may want to erect
    a temporary lambing pen for the ewe and lamb(s), or bring the ewe
    and lambs into a shelter for the first few days.  Other ewes who
    have not yet lambed may try to `adopt' the new lambs, and fighting
    marauders off can exhaust a ewe who has just delivered.  Newborn
    lambs are also prime prey for coyotes.  A temporary shelter or pen
    also gives you a chance to watch for nursing problems, scours or
    other neonatal concerns, and keeps the lambs nearby for
    injections, tail docking, castration, and ear tagging.


-------------------------------
Subject: Are Sheep Wild Animals

20. Why do ewes need help lambing?  Wild animals do it without help.

    Sheep aren't wild animals anymore.  The sheep we raise have been
    bred to produce multiple-births and big, fast-growing lambs.
    Usually, they can give birth without help, and do a marvelous job
    of taking care of their lambs.  When the lambs are too big, or if
    there are more lambs than the mother's milk can support, we help
    out.  In return, we get the pleasure of watching the miracle of
    birth and one of the strongest and loveliest bonds in nature.


-------------------------------
Subject: Credits

21. Who wrote this FAQ?

    The author is Ronald Florence <ron@mlfarm.com>, who raises
    Cotswold sheep in Stonington, Connecticut.  Additional material
    was contributed by Warner Granade <jwg2y@virginia.edu> and Paul
    Isaac <paul@terminus.ericsson.se>.


-------------------------------
Subject: Copyright

22. May I use this FAQ in my homepage, book, talk, or article?

    This document is copyright 1994-96 by Ronald Florence.  Permission
    is granted to copy this document in electronic form, or to print
    it for personal use, provided that this copyright notice is not
    removed or altered.  No portion of this work may be sold, by
    itself or as part of a larger work, without the express written
    permission of the author; this restriction includes but is not
    limited to print, digital media, and electronic transmission.

    If the date in the headers of the document you're reading
    is more than 60 days old, you should retrieve a current copy.
    The latest version of this document is available via ftp or WWW:

       ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/rural/
       ftp://ftp.uu.net/usenet/news.answers/rural/
       http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/rural/

    or by email to <mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu> with the line

       send usenet/news.answers/rural/lambing-faq

    in the body of the message.
-- 

				Ronald Florence


From pmaki@aol.comSun Apr  7 08:58:15 1996
Date: 5 Apr 1996 11:28:01 -0500
From: Pmaki <pmaki@aol.com>
To: sustag-public@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: Homegrown chicken feed?

I've raised free-range layers for two years and had no problems with my
own mix that the local feed mill makes up for me.  My own recipe is
slightly different since I have an animal nutritionalist who lives next
door, (which I'd forward, but can't find right now) but it is similar to
this one from a book called "The Real Dirt -- Farmers tell about Organic
and low-imput practices in the Northeast" from Northeast Region SARE/ACE,
Hills Building, University of Vermont, Burlington VT 05405 Phone:
802-656-0471.

Layer mix:
Cracked Corn 58 percent
Soymeal 30 percent
Oyster shell 5 percent
Lime 4 percent
Layer minerals 3 percent

This makes a 16 percent protein food. This recipe, which is in the book,
comes from Many Hands Organic Far, RR2, Sheldon Road, Barre, MA  01005 and
a 12-page poultry packet is available from them for $5.

Good luck -- I really had a hard time finding a mill that would mix in
small amounts.  I ended up buying in 1000 lb. loads and finally 1 ton
loads, which even then I had to pick up.
From michael.deig@br-ranch.org Wed Apr 19 22:22:23 EDT 1995
Article: 17125 of misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!news.moneng.mei.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!brranch!michael.deig
From: michael.deig@br-ranch.org (Michael Deig)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: This is a Add about Livestock Exchange network.
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 1995 17:02:03 GMT
Message-ID: <950415003703176@br-ranch.org>
Organization: Bufkin Ridge Ranch  1-812-838-9053
Distribution: world
Lines: 50        


 Hello,
  I run a Bulletin Board System and I would like to tell you about a new
network that we started. I hope that this is OK to post here. If it is
not please let me know nicely and I will not post it again here. I try
hard to stay in the guild lines.

  Bufkin Ridge Ranch has Started and running a new network called
Livestock Exchange Network. We started this network because a lot
of people are getting in to the business of raising exotic animals.
And we wanted to start a support network for them. So they could
share information with other people from around the country.
 We have two different bulletin boards that have started carrying
the network now and we hope to get more soon.
 They are..

  Bufkin Ridge Ranch - (812)838-9053   main hub
  Adamscom Online    - (908)572-7490
  ATTENTION to Details (909)681-6221

 Here is the list of conferences that we have setup on the network.

 Livestock Exchange E-Mail
 Horse Talk
 Alpacas Talk
 Cattle Talk
 Hog Talk
 Llamas
 Ostrich Talk
 Sheep talk
 Supplies/feed/hay
 Sells and Events


   You can join in the network by calling Bufkin Ridge Ranch at
(812)838-9053 or one of the other Bulletin boards that are listed above.
 We just started out so the we need people to join and help us grow.
Please if you use a BBS that is a local call for you please tell them
about this network and try to get them to carry the network on their
board. If not you will always be welcome on my BBS.
   If we do not have a conference for the type of animal that you
raise let us know so we can add it to the network.


 Thanks
     Michael Deig - Sysop of Bufkin Ridge Ranch
                             (812)838-9053
                  A Family BBS that loves horses.

    michael.deig@br-ranch.org


From r6831459@postoffice.ptd.netWed Mar  6 15:26:45 1996
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 08:32:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Bill Landesman <r6831459@postoffice.ptd.net>
To: forage-mg@oes.orst.edu
Cc: forage-quality-mg@oes.orst.edu
Subject: Rodale Institute's International Ag-Sieve



                       @@@@@     @@@@@
                       @@  @@      @
                       @@ @@       @
                       @@  @@      @
                       @@  @@    @@@@@
           Healthy Soil, Healthy Food, Healthy People

                       Rodale Institute
            611 Siegfriedale Rd., Kutztown, PA 19530
            Tel: (610) 683-1400  Fax: (610) 683-8548
              ____________________________________



R O D A L E   I N S T I T U T E
-------------------------------

))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
International Ag-Sieve:  LIVESTOCK INTEGRATION
))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

The next issue of the International Ag-Sieve will cover organic Livestock
Production based on regenerative principles.  This issue will focus on
cutting edge methods of integrating livestock with agricultural systems.
It will also include an extensive list of contact organizations,
researchers, extentionists and others that are promoting organic livestock
production.

If you and/or your organization would like to be listed as a contact in
this issue of the Ag-Sieve, free of charge, please respond with your
address, phone number, fax number, email address (if available) and the
name of the appropriate contact person.  Be sure to include a description
of your organization's projects, as it will be published in the Ag-Sieve
along with your contact information.

We can be contacted by phone, fax, email or regular mail.  If you have any
questions, please do not hesitate to contact us at the address below.
Thank you for you time.

Bill Landesman

Rodale Institute
611 Siegfriedale Road
Kutztown, PA 19530
Phone: (610) 683-1458
Fax: (610) 683-8548
Email: r6831459@postoffice.ptd.net

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Rodale Institute works with people worldwide to achieve a regenerative
food system and renew environmental and human health.





Article 8904 of misc.rural:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!crcnis1.unl.edu!docman.doc.state.ne.us!hannibal!jharris
From: jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us (John Harris)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Alternative livestock without risk or capitol
Date: 6 May 1994 02:01:52 GMT
Organization: NDE Nebraska
Lines: 58
Message-ID: <2qc8eg$nce@docman.doc.state.ne.us>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]


Alternative livestock with almost no investment.

How can you get investors to risk the kind of money it takes to get into
Alternative livestock which can cost from $500 to $5000 each.  In my case
I wanted to get into Cashmere goats that cost $3000 for a bred doe and
$2500 for a registered billy.  I talked to several of my friends at work
who live in town.  They were interested in two things.  First they wanted
an investment that looked like a money maker and if the animal dies they
would'nt be out their original investment.  The second and equally
important aspect was that they wanted secretly to be a part of the country
living but were stuck in town for various reasons.  They were also not
interested in being tied down with chores and animal responsibilities. 
Here is how I solved the problems.  They invest the $3000 for a bred doe
which they own in joint venture (not in partner ship) there are tax
reasons for this.  They own the animal and can depreciate it on their
taxis as breeding stock.  I purchased the males or (billies) in this case
and that was the extent of my original investment.  You only need one male
for multiple females in most species.  I do all the work they put up the
money.  I found an insurance company that has specialized in insuring
livestock and exotic animals since 1892.  The cost is 5% of the value of
the animal per year.  I wrote up a contract spelling out each party's
rights and responsibilities.
Their only responsibility was to invest the money for however many does
they wanted.  My responsibility was to do all the work like feeding,
sheltering, vet expenses, and any and all expenses incurred in the daily
operations, and one more thing I pay the 5% insurance cost each year to
protect their investment.  We split all profit from selling Cashmere,
seamen, breeding stock or anything else 50-50.
I got the livestock I wanted without the horrendous money outlay they get
50% of all the profit, a place in the country they can come and bring
their children, grand children, neises, and nephews and most importantly
themselves.  We never lack for company.  
This can work two ways.  If you are a city type and long for a touch of
the country you can advertise in your local news paper.  There are lots of
caring and friendly country folks who would like to try alternative
livestock but don't have the money to finance it.
If you are the country type with a small acreage and some shelter you can
advertise or contact your friends and get started in the venture of your
dreams.
If you would like information detailing how to do this as well as contract
examples contact:


--

  ####    ####     ##     #####   ####
 #    #  #    #   #  #      #    #
 #       #    #  #    #     #     ####
 #  ###  #    #  ######     #         #
 #    #  #    #  #    #     #    #    #
  ####    ####   #    #     #     ####

Nebraska Western Cashmere
John Harris  jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us
90417 County Road #17
Mitchell Ne 69357   Voice:  (308) 635-1579 fax: (308) 635-6100
_______________________________________________________________


From bernie@fantasyfarm.com Mon May 29 21:38:45 EDT 1995
Article: 18285 of misc.rural
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!world!cosell
From: bernie@fantasyfarm.com
Subject: News from Fantasy Farm
Message-ID: <D9CEFp.67M@world.std.com>
Sender: cosell@world.std.com (Bernie Cosell)
Reply-To: bernie@fantasyfarm.com
Organization: Fantasy Farm Fibers
Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 13:50:12 GMT
Lines: 359

Well, Fantasy Farm has survived another round of lambing.  This is
probably the best part of the year on the farm: Spring is bursting
out and the dogwoods are in bloom and everything is beautiful, and
we have a happy pasture-full of moms and lambs.


SHEARING

This year we were determined to have shearing go off mostly
as-planned.  The flock is large enough and the shearer is difficult
enough to schedule that we can't afford to be quite as casual about
it as we have been.  The shearer figured he could do the whole
flock in two days, and what would work out best for him would be to
do it on two consecutive days (Friday and Saturday).  This is a
mixed blessing.  On the one hand, it'll get the whole hassle done
and over with; on the other hand, it means that we have to be able
to store and handle the _whole_ flock in the barn at the same time.
[the reason for the latter is that the sheep have to be kept
indoors for a few days before shearing to make sure they're dry
[and also to protect against rainstorms and such].  I don't have a
clue how really-big farms (like with 5000 ewes) manage it].

It is interesting seeing how our use of the barn evolves over the
years.  The barn is 40x60 with 5 12x12 stalls, three along one
side, two along the other, leaving a sort-of L-shaped open space at
one end of the barn.  We had originally thought that the stalls
were the important part and that the big open space was going to be
good for little more than hay storage or some such.

The fact is that the open space is the really useful part and the
stalls are at best a mixed bag (since they always seem to be either
too large or too small for whatever we want to do).  We are getting
quite good at using hog panels [3'x16' wire fencing panels], calf
panels [4'x16'] and "Sydell panels" (Sydell manufactures the modular
fencing systems we use, 4' and 6' long sections you can pin
together, along with other bits and pieces).  With this stuff, we
can set up any sort of handling system we need --- we can improvise
gates, a 'sweep' [a movable section of fence that you can use to
make a pen smaller to as to push the sheep toward the other end so
they're more tightly packed together and easier to grab], multiple
pens...  basically whatever we need we can cobble together.

In this case, we set up two separate 'corrals' in the open area,
putting the moms-to-be in one and the yearling-ewe-lambs in the
other.  Each has a sweep and two gates, one on either side of the
sweep.  The idea is that you sweep the sweep to push the
not-yet-shorn sheep up close to one gate, pull one out, shear her,
then run her in through the other gate, so the sweep also serves as
a divider between the shorn and unshorn sheep.  We just stuck the
rams in the stalls.

What is amazing is that it actually all went as planned, and the
planning proved to be fairly reasonable.  We had gates where we
needed them, the handling setup actually worked, things mostly just
hummed along.


MICRON TESTING

This year we did something new --- probably something we should
have been doing all along.  Our primary focus is on breeding for
excellent-fleece, and so it only makes sense that we should
actually get the fleece tested so that we can see how we're doing.
We took a fleece sample [about a 2"x2" patch from the side] from
*every* sheep (in future years, we'll only have to take samples
>from  the yearlings).  That complicated the shearing procedure a
bit, but it wasn't too bad.  We ended up with this BIG pile of
labeled baggies with a clump of fleece in each.

There is only one lab in the US that does micron testing.
so we sent off the pile of baggies to them.  About a month later
Lynn gets a strange call: it is the guy that runs the lab.  He
wants to know what sort of sheep we have and what we've been doing.
It seems that our flock has among the very best fleece he has seen
>from  any producer anywhere in the country.  It is very fine and
very uniform and altogether world-class fleece.  What is perplexing
is *why* our fleeces are so good.  Aside from the obvious
explanation, which is that this is just another manifestation of
the general good karma that suffuses Fantasy Farm, it is a bit
strange.  We have good genetics and healthy sheep, and for sure the
fleece is wonderful, but still the genetics shouldn't have been
_that_ good.  We'll have to retest some of the sheep next year and
double-check.  In any event, it does confirm that we can't be doing
too much wrong...


LAMBING

As always, as soon as shearing is done the next big job is to clean
out the barn and get it set up for lambing.  This year Lynn had a
somewhat different idea for how to organize things.  What we would
do with the moms-to-be is basically the same as last year: have
them out in the pasture all day and bring them into the barn at night.
And the baby-monitor-in-the-barn trick continues to work aces, so
Lynn can stay in the relative comfort of the factory (where she
sets up a mini-bedroom in the dye kitchen) and still keep close watch
on her girls.

What's different is how we dealt with the moms after they lambed.
We can fit five jugs into each of the stalls.  The jugs are 4'x4'
pens where we keep the moms and newborn lambs for a few days to
make sure that mom and lambs figure out who each other are.  It
also gives us a good chance to keep an eye on both mom and lambs to
make sure nothing untoward is happening.  After a few days, we dock
the tails on the lambs and give them ear tags, then we take down
the jugs but keep them in the stall, using the stall as a mixing
pen (which at that point will have have five moms and seven or
eight lambs milling about in it).  After a few days in the mixing
pens (again,checking that moms and lambs are doing OK and also
making sure that moms and lambs can still find one another when you
inject a little bit of chaos and confusion into the mix) they're
sent out to the pasture and that's where they stay.  We have a new
field (about 10-12 acres-worth) behind the barn that we got fenced
and waterer'ed this Spring.  So we used the field in front of the
barn for the moms to be, they'd get to spend about a week in the
barn after they lamb, and then they're off to the field behind the
barn.  Altogether it worked out wonderfully well.

Another important factor is that our ewes were in perfect condition
and really healthy and fit.  It is a bit tricky getting the ewes
properly fed coming up to lambing.  The growing lambs take a lot of
energy but they also take up a lot of interior space and so don't
leave an awful lot for their mom's stomach system.  So just when a
mom most needs extra nutrition, she has a hard time eating enough
to get it.  You can (and do, of course) feed the moms high-energy
supplements (read: "grain"), but more important is getting the moms
really fit and "just right plump" *before* the big stress comes; it
really doesn't work out well to let your ewes stay too-thin and try
to patch it up late by feeding them a *LOT*.  This especially a
problem with merinos because their fleeces are so dense that it is
hard to get any clue what kind of condition the sheep are in.

Shearing has always been a bit traumatic for us in that regard: the
sheep go in looking magnificent.  A merino in full fleece is a
wonderful **round** chub-ball of wool; frosty and melody manage to
get nearly spherical.  But then you shear them and discover that
you've had virtually skeletons walking around under all that fleece
and suddenly your flock looks like a bunch of scrawny goats.  Well,
this year was different.  Lynn took pains throughout the winter to
see that the sheep, the moms to be in particular, were well-enough
fed and it was amazing at shearing-time: for the first time, the
sheep looked *good* after they were shorn.  Lynn had managed to hit
it right-on and the ewes were in *perfect* condition.  The ewes
continued to be fit right through lambing [and are still nicely
conditioned as we're readying to start weaning the lambs] and the
result was a surprisingly easy time of it --- healthy moms and fat
and sassy lambs.


LAMBING MISCELLANY

But of course there were a few bumps and twists.  One big worry was
Bunny, our little bottle lamb who was about to become a mom.  Would
she do OK lambing?  Would she know how to take care of her lamb?
Would she still like us?  Lynn was prepared to be a nervous wreck
when Bunny was ready to lamb.  So Bunny just went and had her lamb
all by herself and spared us the anxiety (and her the interference
and hassle!) of having us kibitz.  She is real proud of little
Button, and rightfully so 'cause she's a little cutey.  The only
misstep occurred when we docked and tagged Button --- as with the
other moms and lambs, we took the lambs out of the jugs, docked and
tagged them, and then put mom and lamb right into the mixing area
(taking down the jug).  Well, Bunny was frantic when we "stole" her
little Button, and when we put Bunny and Button into their mixing
pen, Bunny didn't match back up with Button but just kept
frantically running around in circles baa'ing.  So we put them both
back into a jug overnight and then into the mixing pen _together_,
and all was well.

Those of you who are truly long-suffering followers of these tales
will recall that each year Shennie has twins and rejects one.  The
first was the very Bunny about which we speak, the second was
little Sugar.  Well, this year we decided that we were NOT going to
let Shennie sucker us into raising a bottle lamb.  And yes, she had
twins again.  So after the first was born, had been cleaned and had
nursed, Lynn snatched the lamb and we were delighted to see that
Shennie cleaned off and let the second one nurse.  Victory was at
hand, we thought!  We put the first lamb back with Shennie and it
all fell apart.  Shennie got REAL confused and didn't exactly know
what to make of the two lambs around her --- she couldn't figure
out which one was the one she wanted to keep and which one was the
one she was going to reject, so she ended up not letting EITHER one
nurse.  Well, we were determined this year, so we took Shennie and
her twins to a lambing jug and fixed up a head gate for her.  It
held her head in such a position that she could eat, but kept her
>from  quite seeing what was going on in lamb-land and so gave both
lambs a chance to nurse.  We kept her in the head gate for a week,
and at the end of that we were delighted to see that it had worked.
She had accepted both lambs, and now all is well and she's the
happy mom of twins.

We lost one ewe.  Joy had trouble last year --- she had stillborn
twins that we had to have a vet in to extract from her.  This year,
again, she had trouble, but didn't make it this time.  Apparently
the trauma last year somehow scarred up the cervix or some such and
she was apparently in pretty bad shape internally.  Sniff.

Also, two ewes didn't get bred: two of our 'rookies', Jonquil and
Penny.  So our final total was 24 ewes exposed, 21 lambed.  17 ram
lambs, 15 ewe lambs, total 32 lambs.


LYNN'S FIBER DEBUT

In late October there was a spinning retreat not far from here.
Lynn went mostly to attend, but also brought a bit of "Fantasy Farm
Fiber".  We had a little bit of fleece (about 200lbs) that had been
processed while Wilbur was here getting the machines set up and
adjusted, and so although the machines were still not working, Lynn
did have something to show so she brought some of it along with her
to the retreat.

Well, it started a feeding frenzy.  The folks there *loved* the stuff.
She got two new retailers right off the bat --- other vendors at the
retreat who insisted on selling Lynn's stuff.  And after Lynn got home
she would get phone calls --- one calling for 50 pounds, another calling
for all Lynn had.  Lynn went down to the factory and scrounged every
scrap of processed fiber she could find and was *completely* sold out.
It was also with some excitement that we saw an ad in Spin-Off magazine
>from  one of the retailers advertising Lynn's top!!  Business prospects
look awfully encouraging.


GETTING THE FACTORY GOING

Throughout the winter Lynn was getting calls from her retailers and from
other folk who had gotten their hands on the stuff pleading for more,
but we were _flat_ out.  It was obvious that we were going to *have*
to get the card working again.  Fortunately, we had a card expert
(if you remember back to the early factory reports, Bob used to
work at Davis & Furber (who made the card) and he was the one who
insisted that we move the thing 16 inches so that it was centered
and parallel in its area in the factory).  We called Bob and he
came up and surveyed the state of things.  He was able to get most
of the card fixed up, but there was still one broken piece.  Wilbur
had been trying to fix or replace that part since the previous
Spring and the jury-rigged version that we had been using had
broken several times (we were trying to make do with a similar part
>from  a cotton card and it just wouldn't do the job).

Things came to a halt again as we looked around for the missing
part.  Our leads in South Carolina couldn't find anything.  After a
LONG delay and much screwing around, Lynn happened to be thumbing
through a catalog of mill-equipment suppliers and happened to
notice that there was a place in Massachusetts that specialized in
parts for old mill equipment.  So she calls them up and asks if
they can help her find a No 8 comb box for a 1936 Davis & Furber
48" card.  The instant reply: do you want it with or without the
pulley?  Both elation and chagrin: the elation, of course, because
the key part was UPS'ing its way to us; the chagrin because if we
had called these folks sooner rather than later we'd have been up
and running a year ago.

Bob came back and put the card back together again (actually, it
took two trips to get all the missing bits and pieces located and
in place).  And so we made it: at last *all* of the machinery is
working and we can look forward to getting this business of our
_moving_.  About which more later, but...


LYNN'S _REAL_ DEBUT

The spinning retreat was a pretty small-potatoes affair, and so it
was surprising that it generated the amount of attention and
word-of-mouth publicity that it did.  But a bigger deal was coming
up: the Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival, the biggest event of its
kind this side of the Mississippi.  Always the first full weekend
in May, and each year a bigger and bigger event.

The machines were clearly not going to be working in time, so there
was no chance that there would be any Fantasy Farm Fibers on
display this year (but just wait 'till next year!!).  But word of
mouth is an odd thing: a producer in Alabama called us asking if
Lynn could comb some of their fleece.  Lynn explained the situation
and they said that'd be no problem: they had a card so they could
scour and card their fleece and just ship it to us ready for the
final combing and pinning.

Well, a wonderful synergy: the folks from the Little Barn were
going to have a magical transformation performed on their fleece,
while Lynn was going to get SOME use out of her machines in time
for Maryland.

The top came out great and Lynn went up to Maryland and delivered
it all on Friday evening.  The results were astounding: by Saturday
mid-day folks were rushing up to Lynn congratulating her and
thanking her.  Some of the staff from Spin Off magazine actually
ran up to her and hugged her.  The top was a great success and
apparently the talk of the show (at least among the handspinners).
The enthusiasm and appreciation was gratifying [if not embarrassing!].

Interestingly, the word spread not just among the handspinners but
among the *producers*.  It appears that in addition to Fantasy Farm
Fibers, the Fantasy Farm Combing Service also has the earmarks of
being a roaring success.  Producers kept coming up to Lynn trying to
find out how/when/cost/etc to get *their* fleece combed.

And we're still not in production --- all that is out there in the
market, really, are pre-production samples.  And while the most
visible stuff, the top that was at Maryland, is a joy (top is
wonderful, lovely stuff -- a handspinner's dream to work with), we
have a suspicion that this is going to be a case of "you ain't seen
nothin' yet".  Our fleece, the stuff we have over two tons (!) of
scoured and ready-to-process sitting in the loft of the factory, is
(as noted earlier, to our delight) among the best in the world and
it makes top that handles like butter.  It is a bit scary to think
about what's going to happen when our primo stuff gets out into
the marketplace.

But we're going to find out fairly soon.  The next really-big show
will be this fall: SOAR, the spin-off annual retreat, is probably
the biggest handspinners' event of the year.  Lynn already has
reserved a commercial booth there and will be planning to show up
with about a thousand pounds of "the good stuff".  If these early
market samples are any indication, it is going to be a fun week for
Lynn... (not to mention profitable).  But the road from here to there
still has a few potholes...


GOING INTO PRODUCTION

So now that all the machines are working, Lynn is starting to
settle into the routine of a mill worker.  While Bob was here we
did a bunch of carding and had about 200 pounds or so of stock
to process.  The next step is to pin-draft the stock (twice
actually) and the pin drafter promptly broke.  Something is wrong
with its control circuitry and so it won't "start", and it'll only
run as long as you stand there holding the button.  I took a look
at the relay circuitry and it all looked OK and seemed to be
working.  I cleaned the contacts on the relays and the thing
started working again, but after a few hours of operation it
stopped working again.  Dunno what the problem is, but as I write
this I'm still on queue to dive into the thing and figure out
what's wrong.

And then there is the comber.  After *it* ran a few hours, a roller
popped out (sending its bearings flying).  Lynn poked around and
found the bearings and got the roller back in, but another hour or
so later and a nearby roller *broke* --- its shaft just snapped.
We've gotten that fixed, but it is obvious that something is wrong
in the adjustment of that part of the comber, because none of those
rollers really feels like it fits quite right.

So the coin has flipped over: now the card works fine but both of
the other machines have problems.  Sigh.  The pin drafter ought not
to be too big a problem.  The relay logic in the control circuitry
is pretty simple and so not much can go wrong.  The comber is more
problematic, since what we think it really needs is to have someone
who *knows* how the comber is supposed to work and be set up and
adjusted come out and check the thing out.  So now we begin a quest
to find a comber-fixer.

Maybe _one_ of these days we'll actually get this show on the road.

  /Bernie\
-- 
Bernie Cosell                               bernie@fantasyfarm.com
Fantasy Farm Fibers, Pearisburg, VA         (703) 921-2358
    --->>>    Too many people; too few sheep    <<<---


From david_arnold@mm.cobb.ziff.com Mon Nov 14 19:36:38 EST 1994
Article: 2133 of sci.agriculture
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!zcias2.ziff.com!news
From: david_arnold@mm.cobb.ziff.com (Doc)
Subject: Re: RATITES
Message-ID: <Cz9ILz.68B@zcias2.ziff.com>
X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0.1@da.cobb.ziff.com
Lines: 18
Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[8249]
Organization: Ziff Information Services
References:  <39rj8b$kjv@clark.edu>
Distribution: usa
Date: Mon, 14 Nov 1994 14:51:27 GMT
Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name.

In article <39rj8b$kjv@clark.edu>
mmattox@clark.edu (Michael Mattox) writes:

> I am in the "seek and not find" phase of information gathering about the 
> subject--RATITES. This subject which includes ostrich, emus and rheas has 
> been very difficult to run down. I would be gratefull to receive leads to 
> any information about these exotic birds.

I'm not sure about names, but I know that the University of Kentucky
Agriculture Extension Service has published information/tech support
stuff regarding emus and I think ostriches.  Might dig around in
gophers for Kentucky.


* David L. Arnold, Ed.D, EtC                 *                        
*
* The Cobb Group,Educational Publications    *  Seek Serendipity With 
*
* Opinions, I confess humbly, are my own.    *     Great Diligence    
*
* david_arnold@mm.cobb.ziff.com              *                         *


 N  .     i   ..   N free-range-pastured-poultry                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     From peasmvb@luxor.latrobe.edu.au Wed May 17 23:23:17 EDT 1995
Article: 17997 of misc.rural
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!gatech!news.sprintlink.net!simtel!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!lugb!luxor.latrobe.edu.au!peasmvb
From: peasmvb@luxor.latrobe.edu.au (Matthew Bowen)
Subject: Help with Ancora and Hamburg Poultry
Originator: peasmvb@luxor.latrobe.edu.au
Sender: news@lugb.latrobe.edu.au (News System)
Message-ID: <1995May16.010225.11477@lugb.latrobe.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 16 May 1995 01:02:25 GMT
Organization: La Trobe University
Lines: 12

Hello Everyone,

I am currently searching for information regarding two rare breeds
of poultry; namely Ancora and Hamburg chickens. Can anyone supply me
with, or point me in the direction of such information? (either printed
or electronic). I am specifically interested in the difficulties 
associated with breeding Ancoras and Hamburgs.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,

Matthew Bowen - peasmvb@luxor.latrobe.edu.au


From DKENNEDY@creek.astate.eduFri May 24 16:46:19 1996
Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 10:16:37 CST
From: "DONALD W. KENNEDY" <DKENNEDY@creek.astate.edu>
To: sanet-mg@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: marketing pastured pigs

I need information on anyone's experience with finishing and marketing 
hogs outdoors on pasture.
Thanks,
Donald W. Kennedy
College of Agriculture
Arkansas State University
P.O. Box 1080
State University, AR 72467
Phone: 501/972-2087; Fax: 501/972-3885
Email: dkennedy@creek.astate.edu
From gx297@cleveland.Freenet.EduThu Jan  4 19:03:43 1996
Date: 3 Jan 1996 22:50:55 GMT
From: Cathy Czapla <gx297@cleveland.Freenet.Edu>
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Subject: Source for Heirloom Seeds & Poultry


I just received a wonderful catalog from Glenn and Linda Drowns
listing their heirloom garden seeds, plus their rare breeds of
chickens, ducks, geese and turkeys.  Some of their garden specialties
include sweetpotatoes, tomatoes and squashes not available anywhere
else.  

Though I have never yet ordered poultry from them, I can heartily 
recommend their seeds.  Their cucumbers produced prodigiously for me 
last summer.

If you would like a copy of their catalog, send them a buck at

  Sandhill Preservation Center
  1878  230th Street
  Calamus IA  52729

Cathy
preparing to shovel out yet again in central VT
-- 
********************************************************************
 GREEN WORLD:  News & Views for Gardeners Who Care About The Earth
  PO Box 418, Randolph VT 05060       gx297@cleveland.freenet.edu
********************************************************************

From Springwood@mailbox.uq.oz.auWed Apr 17 00:28:46 1996
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 11:05:40 GMT
From: Chris L <Springwood@mailbox.uq.oz.au>
To: sustag-public@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: WEB PAGE: Tagasaste browse shrub


Dr Laurie Snook, an agricultural researcher, has written a book
about Tagasaste. Tagasaste is a hardy, leguminous shrub. In
temperate climates it can provide heavy yields of nutritious green
fodder for grazing animals.


Tagasaste fodder can be an important base for aquaculture. It
provides a high-protein feedstock for fish food from worm farms
and snail farms, and for freshwater crustacea. 

The shrub is being exploited in dryland Australia for high- protein
fodder. Even when grown on poor coastal sands tagasaste (correctly
fertilised) can produce high yields of edible dry matter containing
23% to 27% crude protein and only 18% to 24% indigestible crude
fibre.


Australian farmers now growing tagasaste are reporting these
additional benefits:

* Shade and shelter for livestock during climate stress. 
* Wind and water erosion control. 
* Increased soil fertility through nitrogen fixation. 
* Reductions in water tables causing salinity problems. 
* Habitat for native birds that eat pasture and crop pests. 
* Green firebreaks around homesteads and along boundary fences. 
* Winter nectar for bees. 
* Reduced internal parasite problems as shrub fodder is browsed
above pasture that harbours dung-borne worm eggs. 

Many Australian farmers are now following this revolution as soil
salinity and soil acidity problems make browse shrubs a most
sensible way to go in improving landcare.

For more information please visit the web page at:

http://www.thehub.com.au/~agrovis/agrovis
From lpaulson@nas.edu Wed Apr  3 22:03:23 EST 1996
Article: 26878 of misc.rural
Path: newz.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!news.iag.net!news.math.psu.edu!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!darius.nas.edu!usenet
From: Core Support <lpaulson@nas.edu>
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Anyone have pig raising stories?
Date: 3 Apr 1996 17:07:32 GMT
Organization: National Academy of Sciences
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <4jub8k$636@darius.nas.edu>
References: <314D6829.1275@magmacom.com> <315D5AC1.3447@texas.net> <315dec5b.3680595@news.onr.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: b3156.nas.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 1.1N (Windows; I; 16bit)

Re watching Babe then slaughtering hogs:  The solution of course, is not 
to watch movies.  

We raised Yorkshire hogs for many years, both breeders and feeders.  
Finer, smarter, pretty animals never existed.  We raised field and 
confined animals--the field hogs got pretty good at swimming down the 
river in the summer.  They'd bring themselves up to the barn to farrow, 
and they always knew when the wash had just been hung, waiting to be 
ripped off the line.

I'm not quite sure why anyone would want to raise just 2 pigs though.  



Article 491 of sci.agriculture:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!insosf1.infonet.net!usenet
From: edwardbarry@ins.infonet.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Subject: boer goats
Date: 22 Mar 1994 00:52:09 GMT
Organization: INFOnet - Iowa Network Services, Inc.
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <2mlffp$avd@insosf1.infonet.net>
Reply-To: edwardbarry@ins.infonet.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: ins.infonet.net

hello
does anyone have any information on boer goats?
i live in no. california, and i have just reaad an article on the boer
goats and their introduction into the u.s.

i am very interested and would appreciate anything on this topic.
sarah
(not edward)


Article 494 of sci.agriculture:
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ug484
From: ug484@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Wes Combs)
Subject: Re: boer goats
Message-ID: <Cn2tHr.B21@suncad.camosun.bc.ca>
Sender: news@suncad.camosun.bc.ca (USENET News System)
Organization: Camosun College, Victoria, B.C.
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 1994 17:20:14 GMT
Lines: 11


I have a brochure on Boer goats but am still in a state of semi-
unpacking but as soon as I find it, I'll get back to you.  The
brochure was distributed by an exporting firm.  I am not overwhelmed
by what I know of them but shall review the info.

Wes Combs, Ph.D.
Consultant in International
	Livestock Development
Victoria, B.C.
-- 


Article 495 of sci.agriculture:
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ug484
From: ug484@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Wes Combs)
Subject: Re: boer goats
Message-ID: <Cn2vEr.Byy@suncad.camosun.bc.ca>
Sender: news@suncad.camosun.bc.ca (USENET News System)
Organization: Camosun College, Victoria, B.C.
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 1994 18:01:37 GMT
Lines: 38


References on Boer goats:

Joubert, D.M. Indigenous South African Sheep and Goats: Their Origin
	and Development. Tropical Science XI(3):185-195.

Not a lot of performance data. 

"Mature Improved Boer goat females weigh between 60 and 75 kg. when
in good condition.  Full grown castrates will reach a weight of no
less than 100 kg. without supplementary feeding."

Australian Breeding Pty Ltd
Business office:
4th Floor, 41 Currie Street
Adelaide SA 5000
Australia
Phone: (08) 410 0233
  International +61 8 410 0233
Fax:   (08) 410 1195
  International +61 8 310 1195

That company title should be Australian Breeding Management Pty Ltd.

ABM claims 170% weaned kids.  No dairy production is given or claimed.

My personal view is that breeds without dairy potential have little use
in international development with the exception of fibre breeds.  

Several other exotic goat breeds have more potential for both meat and
milk.

Wes Combs, PhD
Consultant in International
	Livestock Development

Victoria, CBC
-- 


Article 6945 of misc.rural:
Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!rpi!jonesm2
From: jonesm2@alum01.its.rpi.edu (Michael David Jones)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Poultry novice looking for suggestions
Date: 13 Nov 1993 02:18:03 GMT
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY, USA
Lines: 14
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <2c1g4s$iu3@usenet.rpi.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: alum01.its.rpi.edu
Keywords: poultry chickens

We're thinking of getting some laying hens. Does anybody have any
experience with or information about the following breeds of chicken?
  Ancona
  Black Minorca
  Brown Leghorn
We heard about them through the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy;
they're fairly rare breeds.

 Mike Jones |  jonesm2@rpi.edu

Number of governors who say they would veto any proposed state restrictions
on abortion: 30
Number who said this in 1989: 5
	- Harper's Index, September 1992


Article 5132 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!tromaville.manassas.ibm.com!dave
From: dave@tromaville.manassas.ibm.com ()
Subject: Free Ranging Fowl
Sender: news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster)
Message-ID: <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1993 13:27:59 GMT
Reply-To: irby@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM.
Nntp-Posting-Host: tromaville.manassas.ibm.com
Organization: IBM, Federal Systems Company
Lines: 19

Hi,
  I'm looking for some information that goes into detail about
free-ranging chickens, ducks and/or geese.  I've read a couple of books
("Raising Poultry the Modern Way" and "The Home Duck Flock") but so far they
have just given passing mention to free ranging.  I've never raised any fowl
before and I feel that I need more detailed information.  I think I would like 
to free range to save on feed costs but I'm really not sure what the drawbacks 
are (eggs harder to find maybe??).  I saw some plans in Eliot Coleman's 
"New Organic Grower" for a movable chicken house (on skids) that he uses to
free range chickens on pasture land and I've read some articles in magazines
about using birds as weeders which sounds interesting. If you know of a good
book or have some experience/advice to share I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
dave. 
-- 
David Irby   irby@vnet.ibm.com

Dammit Jim! - All ideas and opinions expressed herein are my own. 


Article 5152 of misc.rural:
Path: samba!concert!rock!taco!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv!andy
From: andy@elviss.eng.sun.com (Andrew Davidson)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
Date: 27 Apr 93 09:54:38
Organization: MASTERS OF THE KNOWN UNIVERSE
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <ANDY.93Apr27095438@elviss.eng.sun.com>
References: <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com> <1993Apr26.185937.6971@mlfarm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: elviss
In-reply-to: ron@mlfarm.com's message of Mon, 26 Apr 1993 18:59:37 GMT

In article <1993Apr26.185937.6971@mlfarm.com> ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence) writes:

   Newsgroups: misc.rural
   Path: appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!sun-barr!olivea!uunet!mercury.hsi.com!mlfarm!rosie!ron
   From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
   Lines: 16
   Sender: news@rosie.mlfarm.com
   Organization: Maple Lawn Farm, Stonington, CT
   References: <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com>
   Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1993 18:59:37 GMT

   dave@tromaville.manassas.ibm.com () writes:

	I'm looking for some information that goes into detail about
      free-ranging chickens, ducks and/or geese.... I'm really not sure
      what the drawbacks are (eggs harder to find maybe??). 

   We free-range our few chickens.  The drawbacks are that they sometimes
   hide their eggs until we discover the new hiding place, and they
   sometimes make a beeline for new plantings in the gardens.  One year
   newly planted zinnias disappeared overnight.  For the next week, the
   chickens laid purple eggs.

   For much of the year we don't have to feed the chickens, the only
   clean-up is under their roost, they seem to do a good job on weeds,
   grubs, and other nasties, and the eggs are delicious and attractive,
   with deep yellow yolks that are nothing like storebought eggs.
   -- 

				   Ronald Florence
				   ron@mlfarm.com


What about flies? I have heard that free range chickens are great at
reducing flies around that barn yard. I have also heard that they
create more flies than they eat?

Andy


Article 5162 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!asuvax!ennews!mcdphx!schbbs!mothost!white!rtsg.mot.com!blazer9!sticha
From: sticha@blazer9.Berkeley.EDU (David A. Sticha)
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
Message-ID: <1993Apr28.224927.6978@rtsg.mot.com>
Sender: news@rtsg.mot.com
Nntp-Posting-Host: blazer9
Reply-To: sticha@blazer9.Berkeley.EDU (David A. Sticha)
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
References:  <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1993 22:49:27 GMT
Lines: 43

news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com writes:
>  I'm looking for some information that goes into detail about
>free-ranging chickens, ducks and/or geese.  I've read a couple of books
>("Raising Poultry the Modern Way" and "The Home Duck Flock") but so far they
>have just given passing mention to free ranging.  I've never raised any fowl
>before and I feel that I need more detailed information.  I think I would like 
>to free range to save on feed costs but I'm really not sure what the drawbacks 
>are (eggs harder to find maybe??).  I saw some plans in Eliot Coleman's 
>"New Organic Grower" for a movable chicken house (on skids) that he uses to
>free range chickens on pasture land and I've read some articles in magazines
>about using birds as weeders which sounds interesting. If you know of a good
>book or have some experience/advice to share I would appreciate it.

I've been free ranging my chickens for four summers now. The benefits include
reduced feed, healthier birds and better tasting eggs. The downside is reduced
egg laying (can't find them all and they use a lot of energy scratching for a
living) and losses due to raccoons, possums, feral cats, and my retriever.
Generally, if I let them out (in an enclosed area if the dog is out, free if she's not) first thing in the morning and remember to lock them up 1/2 hour
before sunset, I have no problems. While they are out, I keep the coop door shut.

My garden is within the 20X20 confines of the chicken yard. I fall sow a cover
crop and let the chickens start on that early in the spring. It also trains
them to stay close to the roost. Always count heads before closing the door for
the night and shoo any inside that have an inclination to roost anywhere else.
After two weeks, my flock of a dozen or so has usually stripped the fall cover
crop to the bare earth and has redeposited it in the form of droppings. I then
turn the garden area over by hand (the soil is butter soft) and plant my early
crops. The chickens then switch to foraging outside the yard. Again, count heads
at night and find any that are trying to go wild. The retriever is good at this.
After the early stuff is cashed in I let the chickens back in for a week or so
and they cleanup the leftovers. I then plant warm weather stuff and the cycle
continues. 

Throughout the summer I keep their feeder filled with laying mash
but it lasts a long time because they don't bother with it except for rainy days.
I also feed them table scraps through out the year, except for meat. Also fruit
cores, rinds, stale (not moldy) bread, etc. In short, any non animal based
organic matter. They do have a tendency to gobble the landscaping and occasionally
mess the porch or patio with their droppings. But the benefits I mentioned above
far outweigh the bad things. Finally, I just enjoy watching them. I've heard
people refer to this form of entertainment as "chicken tv".

Dave Sticha


Article 5169 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mercury.hsi.com!mlfarm!rosie!ron
From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
In-Reply-To: sticha@blazer9.Berkeley.EDU's message of Wed, 28 Apr 1993 22:49:27 GMT
Message-ID: <1993Apr29.185539.10650@mlfarm.com>
Lines: 15
Sender: news@rosie.mlfarm.com
Organization: Maple Lawn Farm, Stonington, CT
References: <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com> <1993Apr28.224927.6978@rtsg.mot.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1993 18:55:39 GMT

David A. Sticha writes:

   I fall sow a cover crop and let the chickens start on that early in
   the spring. ...  After two weeks, my flock of a dozen or so has
   usually stripped the fall cover crop to the bare earth and has
   redeposited it in the form of droppings.

Another option is a `Dutch Roto-Tiller.'  Build a one-meter on a side
cubic frame and cover every side but one with chicken wire.  Put a
couple of chickens inside with the open side down on the garden site.
When the chickens have tilled, weeded, and fertilized that square
meter, move the cube to an untilled area.  In a few days, the whole
garden is done.

We've never tried it.  The chickens like our gardens too much as is.
-- 

				Ronald Florence
				ron@mlfarm.com


Article 5191 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!digex.com!news.intercon.com!psinntp!witch!east-wind!jay
From: jay@east-wind.win.net (Jay Miller)
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
In-Reply-To: andy@elviss.eng.sun.com's message of 27 Apr 93 09:54:38
Message-ID: <JAY.93Apr30132247@east-win.east-wind.win.net>
Sender: jay@east-wind.win.net (Jay Miller)
Organization: East Wind Community, Tecumseh, Missouri, USA
References: <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com> <1993Apr26.185937.6971@mlfarm.com>
	<ANDY.93Apr27095438@elviss.eng.sun.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1993 19:22:47 GMT
Lines: 36

Regarding free-ranging chickens (I don't know anything about ducks
or geese, I would like to know more about ducks):

I tend the chickens here at East Wind.  We have something I've heard
referred to as an "eggmobile".  It's great.  It's a house on wheels,
ours is about 12' x 18' with 32 nest boxes around the sides, and roosts
inside.  The chickens get into the nest boxes from the inside and they
open up outside to collect the eggs.  Every morning we go out and open
the coop.  The chickens come out and scratch around and eat bugs and 
worms and the like.  We still give them feed, which we put inside the 
coop, so they keep going inside.  At night, they like having a place to
roost, so they go inside.  Someone goes out at dusk and closes up the 
house.  At first you have some of them wanting to roost underneath the
coop, so you have to climb underneath and get them out.  Eventually they
learn and all go inside.  The only time this is trouble is when the coop
is near trees, which they like roosting in almost as well.

We find this to be a great system.  We figured that we get 2/3 the eggs
but provide 1/2 the feed, so we come out ahead.  I'm told that the eggs
have been much healthier since we started doing this, but I wasn't around
before so I don't know.

If you move the coop frequently enough (every 2 weeks or more often) then
the pasture doesn't get too messed up in one spot, and actually thrives
from all the chicken litter being spread on it.  If you have them in a 
pasture with cows, they scratch up the cow patties to get maggots, cutting
down on flies and spreading the manure.
--
--------------------------------------------
Jay Miller               East Wind Community
jay@east-wind.win.net    Tecumseh, MO  65760
--------------------------------------------
-- 
--------------------------------------------
Jay Miller               East Wind Community
jay@east-wind.win.net    Tecumseh, MO  65760


Article 633 of alt.agriculture.misc:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!wildbee!andy.nachbaur
From: andy.nachbaur@beenet.com (ANDY NACHBAUR)
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
Subject: Guinea fowl?
Date: Wed,  2 Mar 1994 02:28:00 GMT
Message-ID: <940302043457204@beenet.com>
Organization: Wild Bee's BBS, 209-826-8107
Distribution: world
Lines: 42   


 +-------------------------------+
###From: geoff@netcom.com (Geoffrey Leach)
###Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
###Subject: Guinea fowl?
###Date: Tue, 1 Mar 1994 16:13:03 GMT
###
###I am looking for sources of information on guinea fowl.
###Care and feeding, sources, ...
###The local county extension researched the question and was unable
###to come up with anything.
 +-------------------------------+

   Hi Geoffrey,

     I have had experience with guinea and pea fowl in Monterey,
Merced, and Mariposia counties.

     First, check for any noise ordnances...they all make a lot of
racket that is quite unsettling to the neighbors, even out in the
country, whats left of it in California.

    As for feeding them when young they do well on most any game
bird or chicken chow, or you can look for some high price special
stuff for them. They are really adapt at fending for themselves and
we never discouraged them from doing just that. They need places they
can hide at night, like a big brush pile, or trees they can get into
to roost. If you let them they will be happy to set in a tree over the
roof of your home and scream bloody murder when you least expect it.
With pea fowl your neighbors 5 miles down the road may call 911 to
report you are murdering your wife.

    The guinea hens are not as bad as the pea fowl, they can defend
themselves and are quick, will do well on their own and reproduce.
Dog packs will work them over at times if they are roosting on the
ground. After the young hatch they are soon on their own, and may
require a little extra care when small if you expect 100% success.

    I think they are great if you have the space, I don't think
guinea's or peacocks are pen birds.

                        ttul Andy-


Article 5028 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
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From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
Subject: Lambing FAQ (draft)
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 21:28:13 GMT

This is a first try.  I'd welcome comments, suggestions, additions,
and corrections.



		Frequently Asked Questions About Lambing
			version 1.0 - 13 April 1993


1.  What equipment and supplies do I need for lambing?

If everything goes right, and it does most of the time, you need
nothing more than:

   - a pair of surgical scissors, available from a drug store or
     vet supply;

   - a wide-mouthed bottle of 7% iodine solution;

   - a clean, dry, bedded pen for the ewe and her lamb(s).  The
     dimensions can range from 4x4 feet for smaller breeds to 5x5 feet
     for larger breeds, with a water bucket and a hay feeder for each
     pen.  For a small flock, plan on one pen for every five ewes; a
     larger flock can get by with one pen for every seven ewes.

It's a good idea to have the following available, just in case:

   - a baby bottle (4 or 8 oz.); use a heated needle to expand the
     hole in the nipple;

   - a tube feeder; vet supply houses sell them, or you can buy a
     rubber catheter and large syringe from a drug store;

   - a hair-dryer and/or a heat lamb;

   - 60cc. syringes, 20ga. needles, and a solution of electrolytes
     with 5-10% glucose;

   - shoulder-length plastic examining gloves;

   - a rubber or plastic bowl and Ivory liquid soap or an
     obstetric/vaginal lubricant;

   - Penicillin & syringes, or antibiotic vaginal boluses;

   - frozen colostrum from an earlier birth, or from a goat or cow;

   - warm, dry towels.


2.  How do I know when a ewe is ready to lamb?

No two ewes manifest the same signs.  Some wander off to a far corner
of a pasture, or find a corner of the barn.  Some will go off food.
Most will `drop' as the position of the uterus shifts lower in their
bodies, and hollow areas appear in their flanks; this is sometimes
hard to see in older ewes, who are `dropped' most of the time.  Ewes
usually `bag out' as milk develops in the udder within a day or two of
lambing.  As the ewe goes into labor, she may paw the ground as if
digging a nest, and is often restless, getting up, circling or moving
to a new spot, lying down, and repeating the cycle.  As she moves
further into labor, you can see contractions, the water (amnion) will
often break, and she may grit her teeth in pain.


3.  What do I have to do for a `normal' birth?

Most ewes can handle things pretty well.  Within four hours of the
onset of labor, the ewe will deliver a lamb and set to cleaning and
mothering it.  The vigorous licking is important stimulation to the
lamb, and helps trigger hormones that accelerate the development of
milk, contractions for twins or triplets, and the afterbirth.  If
you're there when the lamb is born -- and you should try to be --
clear any mucus from the lamb's nose and make sure it is breathing.
If it isn't, tickle the nostrils with a piece of straw.  If that
doesn't work, grab the lamb by both back legs and gently swing it in a
vertical circle over your head; the up and down movement of the
diaphragm as the lamb swings is an efficient artificial respiration.
Some shepherds use oxygen or even mouth-to-nose respiration to start a
lamb. c but most need little help beyond a tickle with straw.  Then,
allow the mother a few minutes to mother her lamb, before you CLIP,
DIP, and STRIP.

  - CLIP the lamb's umbilical cord within an inch of the lamb's navel.
  - DIP the umbilical cord in the iodine solution, making sure it it
    thoroughly covered with iodine.  
  - STRIP the ewe's teats, to make sure the wax plug is gone from both
    and milk (actually colostrom) comes out.

You may want to weigh the lamb, and on a very cold night, a hair-dryer
on the lamb's ears, or a heat lamp, can help.  Be careful with heat
lamps: they are dangerous, and too much time under the heat lamp can
encourage pneumonia.  It's not a good idea to dry the lamb too much;
letting the ewe do the work stimulates the lamb and encourages bonding
between them.

When the ewe is finished lambing, which can take a while for twins or
triplets, gently drag the lambs into the lambing pen.  The ewe will
follow the trail of smells in the bedding.  She will want a bucket of
water (warm if possible, adding a few tablespoons of molasses will
encourage her to drink) and a nice tab of hay.  She won't need grain
for a day or two, but should have free choice hay and plenty of water.
When you spot the afterbirth, usually from an hour to eight hours
after birth, remove it.


4.  How do I know if the ewe is going to have twins or triplets?

Sometimes you can tell in advance from the size of the ewe.  If
another lamb is coming, the ewe may get restless again, walking away
from her lamb, or lying down with contractions.  The second (or third)
amnion may break with another flood of fluid.  If a bag of reddish
fluid and a white wormlike tissue appears, it probably means she is
NOT going to have any more lambs that year.  Sometimes the only way to
be sure whether there is another lamb is to physically examine the ewe
with a glove and lubricant.  Unless something seems to be awry, it's
best not to interfere.


5.  What do I do if the ewe rejects her lamb?

Some rookie mothers don't know what to do; they drop a lamb and walk
away as if they had just pooped.  Putting the lamb in front of their
noses, or putting them into a pen with the lamb is usually enough.
You may have to help the lamb nurse the first time.  It usually works
better to nudge the lamb from behind, the way a ewe does, than to drag
it to a teat.  Tickling the lamb's bottom when it has the teat in its
mouth is usually enough to get it sucking.  A wagging tail on the
lamb, or the belly going in and out, is a sure sign the lamb is
getting milk (colostrum).

Some mothers will reject a lamb, often one of twins or triplets.  If
you hold the ewe so the lamb can nurse, either manually or by putting
her in a stanchion, after several days the ewe will usually begin to
accept the lamb.  The key for the ewe is the smell of the back end of
the lamb; after a few days, the ewe will detect her own milk.  Another
trick is to bring a dog into the barn.  Often, the instinct to protect
the lamb from the dog is strong enough to reestablish the bond of ewe
and lamb.  If the mother bashes the lamb as well as not allowing it to
nurse, you may have to take it away and bottle feed it.

Grafting a lamb to another mother, because the first mother lacks milk
or has too many lambs, is tricky.  There are many techniques: bathing
the graftee in amniotic fluids from the new mother, stanchions, tying
the feet of an older lamb so it won't seem too active.  It takes
patience and luck.  Ewes are smart, and even if they initially allow
the lamb to nurse, they often figure out that it isn't their lamb and
reject it.


6.  What if the lamb can't or won't nurse?

Make sure the ewe has colostrum by milking each teat.  If the ewe
wasn't shorn before lambing, or crutched, you may need to use hand
shears to clear some of the dung locks away so the lambs can find the
teats.  Lambs aren't the brightest little creatures, and will often
suck away on a tag of wet fleece instead of the teat.

The lamb may be too small, too cold, or too weak to nurse.  Put your
finger in the lamb's mouth to see if it is strong enough to suck.  If
it is, milk 2-4 ounces of colostrum from the mother into a baby
bottle.  Then, using a nipple that has had the hole widened with a hot
needle, feed the lamb two ounces at a time.  One or two feedings of
colostrum may be enough to jump start the lamb.

If the lamb is too weak to suck on your finger, tube feed two ounces
of colostrum.  You can buy ready-made tube feeders from vet supply
houses, or make your own from a surgical catheter and a large syringe.
Lubricate the tube with oil or warm water, measure how much tube it
takes to reach the lamb's rumen, and slide it down gently.  Stop
frequently and hold a wet finger over the other end of the tube; if
you feel air coming out, you're in the trachaea or lungs; pull out and
start again.

A really weak lamb may be dehydrated.  You can inject 30-50 ml. of
5-10% dextrose solution subcutaneously, in three or four spots (10 ml.
each) along the back and sides to rehydrate the lamb.

Whatever procedure or combination of procedures you follow, the lamb
should get only colostrum for the first eight to twelve hours.  If the
mother doesn't have any, use frozen colostrum saved from a ewe with a
single lamb, or colostrum from goats or cows.  


7.  How can I tell if a birth isn't going right?

If a ewe has been in labor for four hours without dilating enough to
deliver a lamb, if the lamb appears in an unbroken amnion, or if you
see indications of a presentation other than the normal two front feet
and the nose of the lamb together, the ewe may need help.

If the cervix of the ewe remains tight after prolonged labor, careful
manual massage may help, or she may need an injection of Oxytocsin to
induce contractions and to relax the cervix.

If a lamb appears in an unbroken amnion, use a fingernail to gently
break the the sack AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE.  The danger is that the
lamb will take a breath inside the sack and drown.

If the presentation of the lamb is wrong, you will need to help.  Make
sure your fingernails are cut short, put on one or two long obstetric
examining gloves, and lubricate your gloved hand and arm in warm water
with dissolved Ivory soap, or with an obstetric lubricant.  The ewe
should be on her back or her side, with an assistant holding her back
legs.  Even ewes who are normally shy are often cooperative when
you're helping them with lambing, but you want to hold her still.
Ease up when she has a contraction, so you aren't fighting her; the
contractions are strong enough to clamp hard on your arm.  You will be
working by feel, so try to imagine what is connected with what as you
_gently_ work your fingers up the vaginal canal.

Some situations are relatively easy.  If one leg and the head present,
you can usually turn the lamb slightly and ease one shoulder out.  If
the lamb is in breech position (fanny first), hurry it out so it
doesn't drown in amniotic fluids when the cord breaks.  If the
presentation is head first without the front legs, gently push the
head back in and sort out the hooves so they come out the canal with
the head.  Sometimes twins are tangled.  Gently and sort out the twin
closest to the cervix into a proper presentation.  It's a good idea
for a person with a relatively small hand to do the job.  Above all,
be _gentle_.  Some presentations, like a transverse lamb at the
cervix, are jobs for an experienced vet.

If you have intervened, even with a sterile glove, you probably want
to give the ewe either a uterine antibiotic bolus or an injection of
Penicillin afterwards.


8.  What medications do the ewe and lamb need after birth?

Ewes are susceptible to worms after lambing, and should be given a
dose of wormer the next day.  If you had to intervene to assist the
birth, the ewe may need an antibiotic series.  If the afterbirth isn't
expelled within twelve hours, you may want to give the ewe an injection
of Oxytocsin.

Local conditions will determine what, if any, medication the lambs
need.  If you didn't dip the navel in iodine immediately after birth,
you may want to give the lambs a precautionary injection of
Penicillin.  If your pastures and feed are selenium-deficient, and
you've had lambs develop white-muscle disease, you may want to inject
lambs with BOSE (Selenium & vitamin E supplement).  If you've had
pneumonia problems with lambs, you may want to administer PI-3, a
nasal vaccine approved for cows, at birth.  If the ewes weren't
vaccinated with CD/T before lambing, you should vaccinate the lambs
early; otherwise, wait until the lambs are at least a month old before
their first vaccination with CD/T.  The tetanus part of CD/T may only
be necessary if you have equines on your farm or other indications of
tetanus.

A few days after birth, and before the lambs are out of the lambing
pens, you will want to do the tails, ear tags or tatoos, and possibly
castrate ram lambs that are not going to be bred.


9.  How long should the lambs and mothers stay in the lambing pens?

A veteran with a strong single lamb could come out after twenty-four
hours.  Rookies, and ewes with multiple lambs, should stay in for two
or three days, until the ewes have thoroughly bonded with their lambs.
Sometimes, if you let them out early, the lambs can get lost, or ewes
can forget their lambs in the rush for feeders.  You might have to put
them back for another day or two.

After the ewe and lambs leave the pen, clean it out as much as
possible, lime thoroughly with hydrated lime, and rebed with fresh
straw before the next tenants move in.


10.  What do I do with orphans?

Lambs without mothers, or whose mothers don't have enough milk for
them, can be raised on milk-replacer.  For the first twelve hours, the
lambs should have only colostrum.  Then, one option is to put them in
a pen with free-choice cold milk-replacer from a bucket with nipples.
The other choice is to feed warm milk-replacer from a bottle, which
will allow the lamb to stay with its mother, who may have some milk.
The lamb may learn to sneak milk from other mothers too.  For the
first few days, the lamb shouldn't get more than four ounces per
feeding, six times a day.  You can then gradually increase the amount
and decrease the number of feedings per day.  After two weeks, two or
three bottles a day is plenty.  Baby bottles work best for little
lambs.  Later, beer or soda bottles with lamb nipples are fine.  More
than 12-16 ounces in a feeding is likely to induce scours.  Unless you
like chasing lambs all hours of the night with a bottle, encourage
bottle babies to eat grain and leafy alfalfa in the creep as young as
possible, so you can wean them early.

Some lambs need a little help but not a complete bottle regimen.  The
runt of triplets, or even of twins, may need a bottle or two a day to
keep up.  You can usually see when one lamb isn't getting a fair
share; hungry lambs are often hunched up, they cry; if they're really
hungry, their mouths will be cold.  Sometimes a bottle or two will get
them going again, or they may need a bottle or two a day.


11.  What care do lactating ewes need?

A good ewe pours so much of the nutrition she consumes into milk that
it is difficult for her to maintain her weight.  You want to give her
energy-rich grain, a pound a day for ewes with singles, as much as two
pounds per day for ewes with twins and triplets, the highest protein
hay you have, such as good leafy alfalfa or early-cut timothy, and
plenty of clean fresh water.  If you're lambing in late spring, the
ewes may do fine on fresh pasture.  You should also check the udders
of the ewes daily, watching for signs of mastitis.  A hot red bag, or
a cold blue bag, are bad signs.  If you detect mastitis, treat as soon
as possible with antibiotics, both systemic and applied directly by
teat infusion.  It may help to milk out a bad teat.


12.  Why do ewes need help lambing?  Wild animals do it without help.

Sheep aren't wild animals anymore.  The sheep we raise have been bred
to produce multiple-births and big, fast-growing lambs.  Most of the
time, they can give birth without help, and do a marvelous job of
taking care of their lambs.  When the lambs are too big, or if there
are more lambs than the mother's milk can support, we help out.  In
return, we get the pleasure of watching the miracle of birth and one
of the strongest and loveliest bonds in nature.
-- 

				Ronald Florence
				ron@mlfarm.com


Article 8240 of misc.rural:
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From: camelid@aol.com (Camelid)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Llama Faq 1
Date: 26 Mar 1994 02:48:02 -0500
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                            LLAMA FACT SHEET

Background Basics
 
  Llamas are members of the camel (camelid) family.  Camelids originated 
  on the central plains of North America where they lived 40 million 
  years ago.  Three million years ago llama-like animals dispersed to 
  South America.  By the end of the last ice age (10,000-12,000 years 
  ago) camelids were extinct in North America.  Llamas were domesticated 
  from guanacos in the Andean highlands of Peru 4,000-5,000 years ago 
  and are among the oldest domestic animals in the world.  Primarily a 
  beast of burden, they provided native herdsmen with meat, wool for 
  clothing, hide for shelter, pellets for fuel and offerings to their 
  gods.  Today there are an estimated 50,000 llamas in the United 
  States and Canada.

Physical Facts

Life span:          About 20 years
Average height:     45" at shoulder, 5-6' at the head
Average weight:     250-400 lbs.
Average gestation:  350 days

Birth:  A single baby (cria) is normally born, without assistance, 
        from a standing mother during daylight hours.  Twinning is rare.

Babies:  Average birth weight is 18-35 lbs.  Babies are normally up and 
         nursing within 90 minutes.  They are weaned at about 5-6 months.

Reproduction:  Females are first bred at 14-18 months of age.  Llamas do 
               not have a heat cycle but are induced ovulators (ovulation 
               occurs 24-36 hours after breeding).  Thus they can be bred 
               at any time of the year. 
 
Color:  Wool ranges from white to black, with shades of gray, beige, 
        brown, red and roan between.  It may be solid, spotted or marked 
        in an array of patterns.

Health:  Because llamas and their ancestors are specially suited to the 
         harsh environment of their Andean homeland, North American 
         owners will find them remarkably hardy, healthy, easy to care 
         for and virtually disease-free.
   Llamas are environmentally sensitive, intelligent creatures.  Their feet, 
comprised of soft pads with 2 toenails, impact the environment less than 
the boots of an average hiker, yet llamas are strong.  A conditioned 
llama can carry approximately 25% to 30% of its body weight, making a 
llama as strong, if not stronger, than a horse.
   Llamas are great working partners and family pets.  They have predictable, 
calm responses to new situations.  Llamas are trustworthy.  Their 
intelligent, gentle nature allows even small children to interact with 
them.  The fiber of llamas can be spun and woven into sweaters, blankets, 
hats and the like.  Llamas are used in animal facilitative therapy because 
of their calming effects.  Families can get involved with llamas in 4-H, 
Scouts and other youth groups.
   Llamas make excellent guardian animals for sheep herds. They have similar
dietary requirements and will defend the herd from many types of predatory
animals.
   Llamas have discrete bathroom habits.  Their pelleted droppings, similar 
to a deer, are virtually odorless and are generally deposited in the 
communal dung pile.  This neatness minimizes parasite contamination, 
reduces fly problems and makes cleanup easier for the owner.  A llama's 
effective digestive system also helps to eliminate introduction of 
noxious weeds into the environment. These pellets also make a superb
fertilizer for home and garden.



Article 8248 of misc.rural:
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From: camelid@aol.com (Camelid)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Llama faq2 Periodicals
Date: 27 Mar 1994 00:39:04 -0500
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Lotta stuff here tell me if you are intersested!

Llamas Magazine
P.O. Box 100
Herald, CA 95638
Subscription: $25.00 for 8 issues/year; $30.00 in Canada; $35 Other Foreign
$45.00 for 16 issues (2 years); $55 in Canada; $65 Other Foreign


Llama Life
2259 County Road 220
Durango, CO  81301-8019
Subscription: $16.00 for 4 issues/year; $26.00 in Canada; $40 Other Foreign

The Llama Link
Drawer 1995
Kalispell, MT  59903-1995
Voluntary Subscription: $12.00 for 12 issues; 
Canada - paid subscription only $24.00 for 12 issues

Backcountry Llama News
2857 Rose Valley Loop
Kelso, WA 98626
$10/year $18/2 years   Canada $12/yr  Foreign  $18yr

Llama Banner
Box 1968
Manhattan, KS  66502
$24/year  (Canada & Mexico add $6/yr)Llama Periodicals:

Llamas Magazine
P.O. Box 100
Herald, CA 95638
Subscription: $25.00 for 8 issues/year; $30.00 in Canada; $35 Other Foreign
$45.00 for 16 issues (2 years); $55 in Canada; $65 Other Foreign

Llama Life
2259 County Road 220
Durango, CO  81301-8019
Subscription: $16.00 for 4 issues/year; $26.00 in Canada; $40 Other Foreign

The Llama Link
Drawer 1995
Kalispell, MT  59903-1995
Voluntary Subscription: $12.00 for 12 issues; 
Canada - paid subscription only $24.00 for 12 issues

Backcountry Llama News
2857 Rose Valley Loop
Kelso, WA 98626
$10/year $18/2 years   Canada $12/yr  Foreign  $18yr

Llama Banner
Box 1968
Manhattan, KS  66502
$24/year  (Canada & Mexico add $6/yr)

Camelids!
An Online electronic journal
To Subscribe Contact: camalid@aol.com



Article 617 of alt.agriculture.misc:
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Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
Subject: Chicken Hatcheries List
Message-ID: <1994Feb28.082626.1@vader.york.tec.sc.us>
From: wtraylor@vader.york.tec.sc.us
Date: 28 Feb 94 08:26:26 -0500
Organization: York Technical College
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			Poultry Hatcheries
Stromberg's				Marti Poultry Farm
Pine River 41C, MN 56474		Box 27-5
                                        Windsor, MO 65360

Inman Hatcheries			Hoffman Hatchery
PO Box 616				Gratz, PA 17030
Aberdeen, SD 57402-0616
1-800-843-1962

Oakwood Game Farm			MacFarlane Pheasant Farm, Inc.
PO Box 274				2821A Center Avenue
Princeton, MN 55371			Janesville, WI 53546
1-800-328-6647				1-800-345-8348

Wild Wings				Clearview Hatchery
Dept. SF				Box 399
9491 152nd St. North			Gratz, PA 17030
Hugo, MN 55038

Hoover's Hatchery			Rouse Game Farm
1-800-247-7014				RR #4
					Moravia, NY 13118

Mother Goose Hatchery			Atlas Chicks
1-800-A1 GOOSE				2651 Chouteau
					St. Louis, MO 63103

Sunny Creek Hatchery			The Country Boy
Red Lake Falls, MN 56750		3428 Beret Lane
					Dept. F&S
					Wheaton, MD 20906

Wildlife Nurseries, Inc.		Cross Keys Pheasantry
PO Box 2724-F				PO Box 594
Oshkosh, WI 54903			Dept FS.
					Hollidaysburg, PA 16648

Crow Poultry				Comstock
Box 106-10                              Beaumont, TX 77708
Windsor, MO 65360

Grain Belt Hatchery			Horan's
Box 125-AA				Box 417-0
Windsor, MO 65360			Tamaqua, PA 18252

Oakridge Outdoors			Meadowbrook Game Birds
Maysville, AR 72747			Richfield, PA 17086

Clinton Chicks				Reed's Hatchery
Box 548-FS				208 College
Clinton, MO 64735			Alva, OK 73717

Ridgway Hatcheries			Blue Ribbon Chickens
Box 306					Box 850830
LaRue 18, Ohio 43332			Yukon, OK 73085
1-800-323-3825

Bedwell Farms				Glacier Springs
1500 Hunsaker Rd.			190A Becumier Lane
Boonville , Indiana 47601		Sobieski, WI 54171

Texas Longnecks				Chick Master Incubator Co.
PO Box 156				945 Lafayette Rd.
McKinney, TX 75069			Medina, Ohio 44256-3510

Poultry Products of Maine		Poultry Specialties, Inc.
433 Bemis Rd.				517 East 5th St.
Hookett, NH 03106-0000			Russellville, AR 72801-0000

National Poultry News			Fett
Dept. UIPD				RR 1ME24
Box 1647				Minden, IA 51553
Easley, SC 29641

PHR Hatchery				Conn Hatchery
Box 428					Rt. 3 2005 Penoak
Squires, MO 65755			Roswell, MN 88201

Hall Brothers Hatchery			Holderread's Waterfowl Farm
PO Box 1026-ME				PO Box 492
Norwich, CT 06360			Corvallis, OR 97399


This is not a complete list, so I will be posting more later.  I have
received catalogs and price lists from a majority of these, but some
of them I haven't written to, so I don't if they still exist.  Anyway,
I'll try to get the other ones on later this week, and if anyone has 
an address to add, post it where I may see it also.

Happy Hatching,
Ernie Traylor
wtraylor@york.tec.sc.us





Subject: Guniea Hens against ticks & fleas
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 20:00:25 GMT

Guinea hens, free-ranging, eat lots of fleas and ticks.

Raising them is neither hard nor expensive.  They cost $2 per/chick
in my area (NE). Initially they must be kept in a wire cage inside,
with a light bulb burning (this is when they're newly-hatched).  At
this point they eat a mash(check with your local feed barn).  In a
few weeks (they're fast growers) they need a bigger cage.  After
3-4 months, they are ready to be released, but don't release all of
them at once.  They have a nasty, ungrateful habit of simply making
fast feet to parts unknown and you never see them again.

To prevent this, release only 2 of them at first.  They like to
flock and will hang around waiting for the rest of their flock to
join them.  After a week, let out another one; after 4 days,
release another and so on.  The idea is that by the time the entire
flock is released(usually folks buy 9-12 of them) they're used to
the area and stay there.

Foxes and raccoons do eat them, so stock replenishment is usually
required from time to time.  Some seem to be smaarter than others
and survive our foxes, raccoons, and coyotes.  Guinea hens roost in
trees at night so that keeps them safe at the worst predator times.

My cats are terrorized by them and leave them alone.  I'm not sure
about dogs.

They're awfully funny.  They sound like someone breaking a bunch of
dishes when they cackle.  They run real fast and altogether
resemble something a cartoonist would have created.

Good Luck
Kathy

Subject: ticks
Date: 18 May 92 18:10:17 GMT

Guinea hens!!!  They eat ticks and fleas--they eat a whole lot of
them.  I never believed this until I moved to a 32 acre farm with
guinea hens(the farm has had them for the last 10 years).  The farm
has NOT had fleas or ticks for the last 10 years.  This is
remarkable because other places in the area (where I lived) had
many fleas and , dangerously enough, deer ticks. They're pretty
cheap to buy around here--2 bucks a chick.

Kathy

Subject: Turkey Genetic Conservation
Date: 5 Dec 91 17:19:01 GMT

(Holiday repost on Turkey genetic conservation)

The author of the article below, David Sullenberger, is a professor of
biology at New Mexico State University. He is an AMBC member, and keeps
a flock of Wishard Bronze turkeys. For a copy of the entire article plus
the bibliography, send a 45-cent SASE to AMBC, Box 477, Pittsboro, NC 27312.

In the not too distant past turkey was strictly holiday fare. Supply was
seasonal and nearly always lagging demand, which made turkey too expensive
for everyday meals. Intense management, close confinement, balanced
rations, sub-therapeutic medication, growth hormones, selective breeding
and artificial insemination (AI) have changed all that.

The use of AI has been critical, because over the past 25 years breeders
have been busy putting more meat on the birds - especially breast meat -
and those large, meaty breasts very effectively prevent the toms from
mating.

There is, however, at least one breed of domestic turkey that can procreate
without aid from man. The "unimproved" breed is the Wishard strain of
naturally mating Bronze turkeys. Wishard naturally mating bronze turkeys
are vigorous, flight-capable, intelligent, good-looking, weather-tolerant
and disease resistant. They got that way by virture of nearly 50 years of
what for all practical purposes amounts to natural selection - Wishard
turkeys have never been pampered.

"They either made it or they didn't. They flew to avoid coyotes, hid to
avoid hawks, foraged for a lot of their diet ant if they got sick they lived
or died on their own." Wishard hatched eggs from his own hens, raised the
poults to 8 weeks on wire, then turned them out to pasture to fend for
themselves until harvest. The ranging birds were provided with minimal
care in simple facilities consisting of pastures enclosed by woven wire
fence, elementary shelters and roots, feeding and watering stations
which were moved a few yards each week to minimize ground contamination,
and rotation to new pasture as appropriate. Breeding stock were those
birds held over at harvest time. No formal selective or pedigree breeding
was practiced and all mating was the responsibility of the toms - exclusively.

The Wishard strain of bronze turkeys represents an invaluable genetic
resourse of highly adapted, low-input, production meat birds. As we enter
the 1990's - a period in which our nation's agricultural productions
practices will be seriously questioned by chemically-conscious consumers,
environmentalists and politicians - there is comfort in knowing that at
least one low-input, self-propagating turkey breed is still around and
competing nicely.

If you are interested in beginning a flock of Wishard Bronze turkeys,
contact Wish Hatchery, Box 362, Prairie City, OR 97869, (503) 820-3509.

AMBC member Peter Jorgensen also has a flock of Wishard Bronze, and can
be reached at CS Fund Conservancy, 469 Bohemian Highway, Freestone,
CA 95472, (707) 874-2942.

Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
Subject: Chicken Hatcheries List
Message-ID: <1994Feb28.082626.1@vader.york.tec.sc.us>
From: wtraylor@vader.york.tec.sc.us
Date: 28 Feb 94 08:26:26 -0500
Organization: York Technical College
Nntp-Posting-Host: default-gateway
Lines: 96

                        Poultry Hatcheries
Stromberg's                             Marti Poultry Farm
Pine River 41C, MN 56474                Box 27-5
                                        Windsor, MO 65360

Inman Hatcheries                        Hoffman Hatchery
PO Box 616                              Gratz, PA 17030
Aberdeen, SD 57402-0616
1-800-843-1962

Oakwood Game Farm                       MacFarlane Pheasant Farm, Inc.
PO Box 274                              2821A Center Avenue
Princeton, MN 55371                     Janesville, WI 53546
1-800-328-6647                          1-800-345-8348

Wild Wings                              Clearview Hatchery
Dept. SF                                Box 399
9491 152nd St. North                    Gratz, PA 17030
Hugo, MN 55038

Hoover's Hatchery                       Rouse Game Farm
1-800-247-7014                          RR #4
                                        Moravia, NY 13118

Mother Goose Hatchery                   Atlas Chicks
1-800-A1 GOOSE                          2651 Chouteau
                                        St. Louis, MO 63103

Sunny Creek Hatchery                    The Country Boy
Red Lake Falls, MN 56750                3428 Beret Lane
                                        Dept. F&S
                                        Wheaton, MD 20906

Wildlife Nurseries, Inc.                Cross Keys Pheasantry
PO Box 2724-F                           PO Box 594
Oshkosh, WI 54903                       Dept FS.
                                        Hollidaysburg, PA 16648

Crow Poultry                            Comstock
Box 106-10                              Beaumont, TX 77708
Windsor, MO 65360

Grain Belt Hatchery                     Horan's
Box 125-AA                              Box 417-0
Windsor, MO 65360                       Tamaqua, PA 18252

Oakridge Outdoors                       Meadowbrook Game Birds
Maysville, AR 72747                     Richfield, PA 17086

Clinton Chicks                          Reed's Hatchery
Box 548-FS                              208 College
Clinton, MO 64735                       Alva, OK 73717

Ridgway Hatcheries                      Blue Ribbon Chickens
Box 306                                 Box 850830
LaRue 18, Ohio 43332                    Yukon, OK 73085
1-800-323-3825

Bedwell Farms                           Glacier Springs
1500 Hunsaker Rd.                       190A Becumier Lane
Boonville , Indiana 47601               Sobieski, WI 54171

Texas Longnecks                         Chick Master Incubator Co.
PO Box 156                              945 Lafayette Rd.
McKinney, TX 75069                      Medina, Ohio 44256-3510

Poultry Products of Maine               Poultry Specialties, Inc.
433 Bemis Rd.                           517 East 5th St.
Hookett, NH 03106-0000                  Russellville, AR 72801-0000

National Poultry News                   Fett
Dept. UIPD                              RR 1ME24
Box 1647                                Minden, IA 51553
Easley, SC 29641

PHR Hatchery                            Conn Hatchery
Box 428                                 Rt. 3 2005 Penoak
Squires, MO 65755                       Roswell, MN 88201

Hall Brothers Hatchery                  Holderread's Waterfowl Farm
PO Box 1026-ME                          PO Box 492
Norwich, CT 06360                       Corvallis, OR 97399

-------------------------------------------------------------
Murray McMurray Hatchery
1-800-456-3280
Webster City, Iowa, 50595-0458
1-515-832-3280

Rare Breeds
bantams
chickens (they sell Dominiques ["Domineckers"] and Araucanas)
guineas
turkeys
peafowl
partridge
pheasants
goslings (they sell "weeder geese")
ducklings

supplies
equipment
books

 - this entry added by london@sunSITE.unc.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------

This is not a complete list, so I will be posting more later.  I have
received catalogs and price lists from a majority of these, but some
of them I haven't written to, so I don't if they still exist.  Anyway,
I'll try to get the other ones on later this week, and if anyone has 
an address to add, post it where I may see it also.

Happy Hatching,
Ernie Traylor
wtraylor@york.tec.sc.us

Article 7923 of misc.rural:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!spitfire.navo.navy.mil!enterprise!jkc
From: jkc@pops.navo.navy.mil (Jay Cliburn)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: On raising chickens commercially...
Date: 2 Mar 1994 19:34:20 GMT
Organization: POPS Supercomputer Center
Lines: 195
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <2l2pns$aau@spitfire.navo.navy.mil>
Reply-To: jkc@pops.navo.navy.mil
NNTP-Posting-Host: enterprise.navo.navy.mil


The long term readers of this group may remember my query of about two
years ago when I sought information on the pros and cons of commercially
raising vast numbers of chickens.  At the time, my father was contemplating
retiring from his riverboat captain job and entering the poultry business
full time on our farm in Lawrence county, Mississippi.  I received several 
responses to my initial post of oh-so-long-ago -- mostly negative 
recommendations -- but, alas, despite the naysayers, Daddy went ahead with 
the effort.  This is a followup to that post.  It's LONG (~190 lines), so 
bail out if you're not interested.

(	First, something totally unrelated to the subject.  You may have 
	chuckled at my use of the term "Daddy."  However, virtually all 
	adult men and women in rural Mississippi (including this 37-year
	old male) refer to their fathers as "Daddy" -- pronounced "Deddy."  
	Mom is called "Mama."  Is this true in other areas as well?  
)

I'll start by describing the buildings that house the chickens.  There are
four houses; each house measures (about) 400' x 40'.  The construction 
utilizes regularly spaced, opposing, angular steel trusses with the bottom
end of each truss attached to the concrete foundation wall and the other 
(top) end connected to the top end of the opposing truss at the crown
of the roof.  The trusses form the structure for the walls and roof.  The
side walls are made of heavy vinyl/canvas type material which can be
raised and lowered automatically by a motorized system of pulleys to allow
ventilation and assist in temperature control.  There are four wall-mounted 
ventilation fans -- two on one wall bring fresh air into the house and two 
on the opposite wall exhaust air from the house.  These fans activate for
30 seconds every 10 minutes.  

The floor of each house is dirt, but is covered with about four inches 
of heavy pine sawdust (and smells wonderful to me when it's fresh and no 
chickens have yet soiled it).  A thin layer of fresh sawdust is added 
atop soiled litter prior to the arrival of each new batch of chicks after
the soiled litter is "cleaned".  Cleaning is accomplished by a specialized 
piece of machinery towed behind a tractor.  It scoops up the soiled litter, 
filters out the larger, chunky stuff and lays the finer sawdust back down 
onto the floor.  We then use this same pooper scooper machine (which has 
a spreader mechanism on the back) to distribute the manure on our pastures.
After cleaning, we get the thin layer of new sawdust spread over the old
stuff so the next batch of chicks won't get their little feet dirty.  :) 
After seven batches of chickens, the litter is completely removed and 
replaced.  This occurs about once per year.  Removal is performed by a 
nice man with a front loader and several tractor-trailer dump rigs.  He
comes in at no cost to us, loads up the manure/sawdust mixture, and takes
it to various points on the globe to sell it.  We then notify the chicken
processor that we have clean floors and are ready for "shavings."  Several
truckloads of the sweet-smelling pine sawdust arrive over the next couple
of days.  The trucks simply drive slowly through each house and spread the 
shavings over the floor.

At each end of the house is a large door to allow trucks and machinery 
to pass into and through the house.  Personnel access to each house is 
normally gained by passing through a small equipment control room annex, 
located at the midpoint of the building.  Inside this control room are 
the various timers, valves, compressed air lines, and controls for feeding 
and watering the birds and maintaining the feed and water lines.

Lighting inside each house is provided by incandescent bulbs (lots of them)
on a timer circuit.  The on/off ratio varies according to the age of
the chickens.  The side walls described above are opaque and are sometimes
lowered (that is, opened; they open downward), so lights are only used 
during hours of outside darkness.  There must be two independent sources
of electricity for each house.  Our sources are (1) the standard supply
provided by the local REA affiliate, and (2) a diesel generator used
during outages of (1). 

Heating is provided by four large, high capacity, thermostatically-
controlled, gas-fired heaters.  Four fans mounted on poles hang down from  
the ceiling to provide internal air circulation.  The poles are hinged at 
the ceiling to allow the fans to be raised (in unison, by pulleys) to the 
ceiling to allow clearance for trucks and machinery passing through the house.
The heaters are suspended by cables from the ceiling and may be raised
to the ceiling as well.

The chickens receive water through an automatic watering system.  There are
four water lines that run the length of each house.  These lines sit atop
the litter and are attached to thin cables connected to a ceiling-mounted
pulley system used to raise the water lines up to the ceiling.  (Keep in
mind that *everything* must be raised to the ceiling during evolutions that 
require passage of machinery through the house.)  Conical, plastic, water cups,
spaced at two foot intervals, are mounted to the top of each water line.
An inlet valve at the bottom of each cup (the apex of the cone) sports a
vertical appendage, which, when moved slightly to one side or the other, 
opens the valve to allow water into the cup (from the bottom).  A one-inch 
diameter plastic ball floats in the cup, and when the water level gets 
low enough, the ball comes into contact with the valve appendage, opens 
the valve, and water enters the cup.  Like electricity, two sources of
water are required.  We use (1) what we call "city" water, piped in from
the local water authority, and (2) a well for backup.  Water lines can
become plugged from time to time, and we clear them by blowing compressed
air through them.  Antibiotics and such are injected into the watering
system through a special fitting within the equipment control room.

The feeding system is designed to be automatic, although in practice it 
is much less so than the watering system.  Bulk feed is trucked in 
periodically and loaded into two 25-ton feed silos at each house.  The
formulation of the feed varies with the age of the chickens.  Feed is 
provided by the processor.  (FWIW, the processor in our case is Sanderson
Farms, Inc., of Laurel, Mississippi).  There are two feed lines which
run the length of each house, each line originating from its own 50 pound
feed hopper.  Again, like everything else in the house, all feed lines and 
hoppers are configured so that they may be raised to the ceiling.  The 
hoppers are filled from the silos using motorized Archimedes screws.
Similarly, the feed lines themselves use Archimedes screws to take feed
from the hoppers.  Evenly spaced about every two feet along each feed 
line are feed distribution ports.  When the chicks are very young, the 
feed simply dumps into shallow trays which the chicks can easily hop into.
(We place these trays on the floor prior to the chicks' arrival.)
At this age, the chicks are fed as much as they can eat.  When the birds
are ten days old, the trays are removed and cleaned (a dreadful task) and
the feed is distributed into circular feed troughs, also spaced at two
foot intervals along, and permantently mounted to, the feed lines.  We
close off the ports along the feed line which dumped into the trays.  From 
this time onward, feeding occurs every six hours and care must be used 
not to overfeed or underfeed the birds.  A timer is used to distribute 
"x" amount of feed at each feeding, where we have control over "x".  As 
you might expect, chickens will just about eat themselves to death if 
provided with enough feed, so we can't feed too much.  On the other hand, 
we don't want to underfeed either, since that produces smaller chickens, 
and hence less money.  The trick is to find that elusive balance of 
maximum bird weight with minimum feed consumption and mortality rates.

That about wraps it up for the particulars of the houses.  Are you still
here?  :)  Now I'll talk briefly about the day to day operations involved
in raising the chickens.

We raise broilers.  We receive 22,400 chicks from the hatchery into each 
(preheated) house at or before dawn on delivery day (it's no accident
that we refer to this as D-Day).  We end up with a total of 89,600 chicks
entrusted to our loving care for about 41 days.  The chicks arrive aboard
specially modified school buses (without seats, of course) in stacked,
shallow plastic crates, not unlike the ones that you find holding your
drinking glasses in your high school cafeteria.  We simply dump the little
fellers out onto the floor of their new home, and the hatchery folks load up
their empty trays and hit the road.  For the first few days, we check
on the chicks frequently; replenishing food and carefully monitoring their
health and condition.  Each morning we walk through the houses to pick up 
the birds that died the day before.  The highest mortality is almost always 
suffered on day four -- about 40 - 50 chicks per house.  (In one "defective" 
batch early this year we suffered a staggering day four loss of over 300 
birds in a single house!)  Carcasses are buried in pits about 100 meters 
away from the houses.

As mentioned earlier, on day 10 we remove the feed trays, convert
to the circular troughs, and begin 6-hour feeding intervals.  Life gets a
little easier at this point.  The birds grow pretty rapidly, and on day
39 or 40 have reached about 4.0 - 4.5 pounds.  The processor comes to
pick up the chickens after dark on day 40 or 41 -- after dark because
the birds are somewhat calmer than during daylight hours.  It's a busy
evening for us, which starts four hours before the pickup crews arrive.
We have to empty feed and water lines and raise all lines, heaters, and
fans to the ceiling to make way for the pickup crews.  They come at the
prearranged time (hopefully) and spend the rest of the night -- usually
until dawn -- picking up chickens by hand and putting them into stacked
cages on semi trucks.  Mortality is fairly high during this evolution;
a poultry biologist told us it's due to heart attacks and smothering as
the frightened birds pile onto one another to avoid their captors.  By 
dawn, the trucks rumble off into the distance carrying a few tens of 
thousands of bewildered chickens to meet their destiny and leaving a 
red-eyed and haggard family behind.

Once the chickens are gone and we've caught up on our sleep, we "clean" 
the litter, wash down and disinfect the inside of each house, and spread 
a thin layer of new pine shavings on the floor (or replace it altogether, 
if it's time).  Any maintenance on the various suspension equipment in the 
houses is performed at this time, and if we want to go on vacation or 
anything, now is the time to do it.  We have about two weeks of "empty 
time," and four days prior to the arrival of the next batch of chicks, 
we check out all heaters, fans, feed lines, water lines, and controls.  
Twenty-four hours prior to their arrival, we lay down the feed trays,
lower the feed and water lines, light off the heaters and bring the 
temperature in the houses up to 88 degrees F.  This must be done at 
the prescribed time in order to bring the litter up to temperature, 
otherwise the chicks suffer hypothermia from the "cold" floor.  The 
chick buses return the next morning and we start the cycle all over 
again!  And we love it!

Well, I've rambled on long enough.  Just thought I'd pass along our
experiences.  If you're ever in south Mississippi, give me a heads up.
I'd be delighted to show you around.  The sight and sound of 20,000+ 
chickens in one room never ceases to amaze.  :-)

--
***************************************************************************
*                                                                         *
*  Jay Cliburn                                  jkc@navo.navy.mil         *
*  Empress Software                             (601) 688-5083            *
*  Stennis Space Center, Mississippi                                      *
*                                                                         *
***************************************************************************
Be prepared to undergo privation and labor with cheerfulness and alacrity.
                                                             Braxton Bragg



Article 7883 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mlfarm!jenny!ron
From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
Subject: Re: Lamb creep feeder?
In-Reply-To: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu's message of 26 Feb 1994 13:07:30 -0800
Message-ID: <CLw2M3.HHM@mlfarm.com>
Lines: 24
Nntp-Posting-Host: auda.mlfarm.com
Organization: Maple Lawn Farm, Stonington, CT
References: <2kodmi$qqt@eis.calstate.edu>
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 15:20:20 GMT

Bruce A. Moon writes:

    Does anyone have ideas for a small creep feeder? I have never seen
   one, let alone plans but people say we should supplement the lambs
   with pellets to get them ready for the fair.  

You can make a quick & dirty creep feeder out of a standard 16-foot
welded hog or stock panel.  Use a boltcutter or hacksaw to cut two
6-inch by 18-inch openings in the panel, cover the rough edges with
duct tape or a length of split garden hose, then bend the panel into a
semi-circle and fasten to a wall of the barn.  You may need a couple
of anchors to hold the center section down.  Put a small feeder inside
and maybe a bright light over it, add a little leafy alfalfa hay, and
show the lambs where the goodies are.

We find that if the lambs aren't creep trained at a very young age
(one-two weeks), they don't get the habit.  This year we're trying a
mixture of cracked corn and soymeal for the creep, and gradually
mixing in the 16% coarse mixture that the ewes get.  The lambs seem to
like it.
--

				Ronald Florence
				ron@mlfarm.com


Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
From: jdryan@mmm.com (Jerry D. Ryan - Tech. Computations - (612) 733-3595 - jdryan@mmm.com)
Subject: Re: SHEEP BREEDS INFO NEEDED
Reply-To: jdryan@mmm.com
Organization: 3M - St. Paul, Minnesota
Date: 16 Mar 1994 20:59 -0600    

>Does anybody know anything (or even heard of) the sheep breeds:
>Targee
> 	I quote from Paula Simmons' "Rasing Sheep the Modern Way":

"TARGHEE
	The Targhee is a hearty American breed, developed by mating outstanding
Rambouillet rams to ewes of Corriedale x Lincoln Rambouillet stock, and ewes of
only Lincoln-Rambouillet, and following that by interbreeding the resulting 
lambs.  The work was done since 1926 by the United States Sheep Experiment
Station in Dubois, Idaho to meet the demand for a breed of sheep that was thick 
in natural musceling, prolific, producing high-quality apparel-type wool, and
adapted to both farm and range conditions.  It gets it name from the Targhee
National Forest on which the Experiment Station flock grazes in the summer.

	It is a large-sized, dual purpose sheep with a good meat type and
heavy fleece (11 to 16 pounds) of good wool, about 1/2 blood, 3 inches 
length, or more.  It has a clean face and no skin folds, with ewes 
weighing from 125 to 200 pounds, and rams from 200 to 300 pounds.

	Experimental work at the University of Idaho has show the Targhee to
have an inherited resistance to internal parasites and no hoof troubles.  
The breed can also claim a very long productive life.

	It is noted for an ease of lambing, and high percentage of twins or
triplets.

	On the National Livestock Producer's breed chart, ..., it took
second place."


From: arnod@mayo.edu (DREW ARNOLD)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Subject: Re: SHEEP BREEDS INFO NEEDED
Date: 16 Mar 1994 21:03:06 GMT

The Targhee (I believe this is the correct spelling) was
developed at the U.S. Sheep Experiment Station at Dubois, Idaho. 
The Targhee is a Rambouillet x Lincoln crossed back to a
Rambouillet, making it 3/4 Rambouillet and 1/4 Lincoln.  The
cross creates a large-framed, medium muscled sheep with about 64
spin count wool (15 micron?).

Drew

*****************************************************************
+ DREW ARNOLD             |arnod@mayo.edu |"I'M A REBEL WITHOUT +
+ ENDOCRINE RESEARCH UNIT |(507) 255-6586 |  A CLUE "           +
+ MAYO FOUNDATION         |               |                     +
+ 4-407 ALFRED            |               | -The Replacements   +
+ ROCHESTER, MN 55905     |               |                     +
*****************************************************************

Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Reply-To: slc@envirolaw.win.net (Stephen L. Castner)
From: slc@envirolaw.win.net (Stephen L. Castner)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 1994 15:31:51 GMT
Subject: Re: SHEEP BREEDS INFO NEEDED

 
Targhees were bred in the 1920s at the USDA Sheep Experimental
Station at Dubois, Idaho, combining about 3/4 fine wool breeding
(Rambouillet) with about 1/4 long wool breeding.  Targhees are
white faced and resemble Rambouillets in appearance, intermediate to
large in size, with ewes weighing in the 140-200 pound range and
rams in the 200 to 300 pound range. The ewes are durable, often
producing for a decade. 

Targhees were developed for range conditions and are a major breed
in Wyoming, Montana and South Dakota.  They also do well as a farm
flock breed, and are widely raised in Wisconsin, among many other
states.  They are quite adaptable to varied forage and climatic
conditions. 

Their fleeces are somewhat less fine than Rambouillets and Merinos,
but are considerably finer than most of the meat breeds.

Targhee ewes have good mothering and milking ability.  They have
high twinning rates under range conditions.  The breeder of the
1993 U.S. champion ram has a consistent lambing record of more
than 200 percent from his flock in Wisconsin.

Targhees produce large lambs, which have a high rate of gain. The
breed exhibits a high rate of pounds of lamb weaned per ewe bred,
making them desirable for both feeder and custom freezer lamb
operations, important qualities for the post-Wool Act period. 

For more information, contact:

                George Mann, President
                U.S. Targhee Sheep Association
                Route 1, Box 199B
                Fairchild, Wisconsin 54741
                715-286-5041
                
                Dean Von Krosigk, Vice-President
                U.S. Targhee Sheep Association
                111 Hoot Owl Road
                Riverton, Wyoming 82501
                307-856-3125

You might be interested to know that the U.S. Targhee Association
directory lists four Canadian members, three in Alberta and one in
Ontario, but, alas, none in B.C. 


 

_______________________________________________________
/`-._     Steve Castner slc@envirolaw.win.net        |
 {     }/ 1650 Ninth Avenue, P.O. Box 164            |
  \   ./  Grafton, Wisconsin 53024-0164              |
   |___|  Voice: (414) 377-9377  Fax: (414) 377-5002 |






Article 5550 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ssd.intel.com!dand
From: dand@ssd.intel.com (Dan Dreiszus)
Subject: Re: Free ranging turkeys? (Followup)
Message-ID: <C825py.ADB@SSD.intel.com>
Sender: usenet@SSD.intel.com
Nntp-Posting-Host: gormley
Organization: Supercomputer Systems Divison, Intel Corp.
References: <C6z5Fv.MJ2@SSD.intel.com> <110@east-wind.win.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1993 18:22:45 GMT
Lines: 59

Several netters forwarded me the original post, which appeared
some time ago. Since there seems to be a lot of interest in this,
I'm re-posting it.

The name of the breed is the Wishard Bronze turkey. 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

The author of the article below, David Sullenberger, is a professor of 
biology at New Mexico State University. He is an AMBC member, and keeps
a flock of Wishard Bronze turkeys. For a copy of the entire article plus
the bibliography, send a 45-cent SASE to AMBC, Box 477, Pittsboro, NC 27312.

In the not too distant past turkey was strictly holiday fare. Supply was
seasonal and nearly always lagging demand, which made turkey too expensive
for everyday meals. Intense management, close confinement, balanced 
rations, sub-therapeutic medication, growth hormones, selective breeding
and artificial insemination (AI) have changed all that.

The use of AI has been critical, because over the past 25 years breeders
have been busy putting more meat on the birds - especially breast meat -
and those large, meaty breasts very effectively prevent the toms from
mating.

There is, however, at least one breed of domestic turkey that can procreate
without aid from man. The "unimproved" breed is the Wishard strain of
naturally mating Bronze turkeys. Wishard naturally mating bronze turkeys
are vigorous, flight-capable, intelligent, good-looking, weather-tolerant
and disease resistant. They got that way by virture of nearly 50 years of
what for all practical purposes amounts to natural selection - Wishard 
turkeys have never been pampered.

"They either made it or they didn't. They flew to avoid coyotes, hid to
avoid hawks, foraged for a lot of their diet ant if they got sick they lived
or died on their own." Wishard hatched eggs from his own hens, raised the 
poults to 8 weeks on wire, then turned them out to pasture to fend for 
themselves until harvest. The ranging birds were provided with minimal
care in simple facilities consisting of pastures enclosed by woven wire
fence, elementary shelters and roots, feeding and watering stations 
which were moved a few yards each week to minimize ground contamination,
and rotation to new pasture as appropriate. Breeding stock were those 
birds held over at harvest time. No formal selective or pedigree breeding
was practiced and all mating was the responsibility of the toms - exclusively.

The Wishard strain of bronze turkeys represents an invaluable genetic 
resourse of highly adapted, low-input, production meat birds. As we enter
the 1990's - a period in which our nation's agricultural productions
practices will be seriously questioned by chemically-conscious consumers,
environmentalists and politicians - there is comfort in knowing that at
least one low-input, self-propagating turkey breed is still around and 
competing nicely.


If you are interested in beginning a flock of Wishard Bronze turkeys, 
contact Wish Hatchery, Box 362, Prairie City, OR 97869, (503) 820-3509.

AMBC member Peter Jorgensen also has a flock of Wishard Bronze, and can
be reached at CS Fund Conservancy, 469 Bohemian Highway, Freestone,
CA 95472, (707) 874-2942.


From James.L.Novak@acenet.auburn.eduFri Jan 20 15:53:01 1995
Date: Fri, 20 Jan 95 11:25:01 CST
From: "James L. Novak" <James.L.Novak@acenet.auburn.edu>
To: london@sunsite.unc.edu
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Subject: Re: Native fruits, etc. (fwd)

Steve,

We have a county agent in Covington County who is into antique animals.  
Contact csimon@acenet.auburn.edu that stands for Chuck.  


In alt.sustainable.agriculture you write:

>------- start of forwarded message -------
>>From: dahlberg@csrp.tamu.edu (Steven Dahlberg)
>Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
>Subject: Native fruits, etc.
>Date: 13 Jan 1995 20:00:08 -0000

>O.K. so there aren't any other permaculture types out there.  How 'bout
>people interested in in reviving or preserving aboriginal agricultural
>practices or preserving native and heirloom fruits and nuts?  If you want
>to compare ideas on these topics, let me know.

>dahlberg@csrp.tamu.edu

>Steve D.
>dahlberg@csrp.tamu.edu
>CSRP
>Department of Meteorology
>Texas A&M University
>College Station, TX 77843-3150
>(409)845-0189

>------- end of forwarded message -------

From solync@major.cei.netSun Apr  7 08:59:31 1996
Date: 1 Apr 1996 04:04:18 GMT
From: Carol Cross <solync@major.cei.net>
To: sustag-public@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Sustainable Livestock Feed Production Using Bagged Silage

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

---------------------------------170691112128185
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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BAGGED SILAGE CAN SUPPORT SUSTAINABLE LIVESTOCK FEED PRODUCTION

When large round hay bales are left out in the fields over the winter, 
they can lose over 50% of their nutrient value as a result of spoilage 
from weathering. Additionally, hay making during cloudy and rainy weather 
can lead to spoiled hay.  Making Baled silage and covering round bales 
with  a plastic wrap can lead to sustainable livestock feed production. 

---------------------------------170691112128185
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/plain

HAY WRAP: The Fast, Low-Cost Way To Weatherproof Big Bales
  Hay Wrap, the tractor powered attachment to LIFT and TURN big round bales, will let you wrap each bale quick and easy with cling/s=
tretch type plastic film.
  With each bale securely wrapped in plastic, you will feed hay or haylage next winter that is as good as the day you baled it! Hay =
Wrap is a Bale Wrapper, Bale Unroller, and Bale Carrier.
      _____     "Hay Wrap"
     /     \  /-------     4 struts hold round bale
 ___/       \/____________   spear impales round bale
[ tractor  o o\-------     strut holds round bale
/_______ o     o__===_     plastic holder and dispenser
o  o     o     o
 oo        o o              _________
                           [ request ]
                           [__video__]
                             /     \
  _______
 / _____ \ )))))))))))))))))))Call 1-800-476-5962
 --     --
Your InterNet Dealer:  Carol Cross email solync@cei.net

Benefits: 
  Hay Wrap weatherproofs any size or shape of round bale skin tight! It protects ends of bales also with a special wrapping techniqu=
e that lets you bring plastic over the edge of the bale about 12 inches. It prevents ground water from entering the bale. It's fast =
 . . wraps up to 40 bales per hour.
  Haywrap your bales and your cows will get at least 25% more feed value from your hay crop. 
  To start the 35 second wrapping procedure, insert the end of the plastic under the plastic twine at one end of the bale. Start, st=
op, speed control, position of the plastic roll and plastic tension adjustment are all controlled by the person wrapping the bale. T=
his can be a one person, one tractor operation. If the tractor is big enough to pick up a bale it is big enough to run the Hay Wrap =
machine.
  Hay Wrap works all year for you. Unrolling bales is as simple as removing the strings and cover and then spinning the bale apart w=
ith the Hay Wrap attachment. Works great for bedding too.

WITHOUT THE HAY WRAP MACHINE YOU MAY LOSE 50% OF YOUR HAY!!!

ECONOMIC IMPACT PER BALE FOR SPOILAGE

GRASS HAY  BALE 5 1/2'  -- DIAMETER   5 1/2' LENGTH  WEIGHT 1150'S
Dollar value of Spoilage
  
GRASS HAY                                                                                                       Price per Ton

Inches of  Spoilage         
Pounds of
  Spoilage          
% of Bale Spoiled        

US$ 45.00

        US$ 65.00

2                                           
135                           
 12                                     3.05                      
4.50

4                                           
260                            
23                                     
5.95                      
8.60

6                                           
380                            
33                                     
8.55                     
12.35

8                                           
490                            
43                                    
11.00                    
16.10

10                                         
590
                            51                                    
13.30                    
19.10



HAY WRAP SAVES MONEY FOUR WAYS
1. Weatherproofs dry hay bales
2. Wraps and stacks nutritious haylage
3. Unrolls big bales easily
4. Transports Big Bales
  Hay Wrap is the most versatile, heavy-duty bale wrapper available today. No bale is too big to wrap.



WARRANTY
10 year/20,000 bale warranty on main spear and bearings
5 year/10,000 bale warranty on the rest of the machine

HAYWRAP ROUND BALE WRAPPING MACHINE	US$3500.OO
PLASTIC WRAP 30' x 5,000 	      CALL FOR PRICE

  As the bale rotates, move the plastic roll from one end of the bale to the other end, overlapping to put two layers of plastic on =
dry bales and four layers on haylage bales. The plastic stretches 150% to discourage hay stems from poking through and it will confo=
rm perfectly to the shape of the bale to exclude all air pockets. The plastic is treated to repel rodents.
  Hay Wrap can weatherproof dry hay bales for around $1.50. Haylage bales for $2.75 to $3.50, depending on the size. Under average c=
onditions, the 100 gauge plastic may repel rain and snow for a year or more, if used as recommended.
  Wrap *dry hay* (17% moisture) with 2 layers of plastic. Bring the plastic to the edge of the bale and stop.. .do not bring around =
the end of the bale. Place the bales in a row and leave a 6" space between them.
  *Haylage bales* (30% to 75% moisture) are wrapped around the bale ends, 12" to 15". This plastic seals out ground water and air wh=
en bales are JAMMED together.
  The Hay Wrap low cost method for making haylage (university proven to be up to $4.44 less per bale than total wrap system) is catc=
hing on fast with cost conscious farmers. By baling between 30% and 75% moisture you can make perfect haylage and best of all elimin=
ate the weather worries associated with trying to make dry hay.

*HAY WRAP HAYLAGE * BEAT THE WEATHER * MAKE HAY IN A DAY*
  Follow these simple steps to make palatable, nutritious haylage. 
  Step 1. Bring the silage bales in with your regular bale  mover and place them in a tight row. Spear the bales with the Hay Wrap m=
achine, apply the plastic (4 layers). Place in the storage row with the Hay Wrap machine and RAM them very tightly together. This wi=
ll expel any air and form a super tight seal between the bales. The only bales showing any hay are the first and last bales in this =
long row.
  Step 2. It takes less than 35 seconds to put the plastic (4 layers) on the haylage. Next place the bale on the end of the row and =
then pull out about 4 feet, puts the tractor in reverse and hits the bale as hard as he can. He is using this bale to ram the 2nd ba=
le into the 3rd into the 4th etc.
  Step 3. Seal up an end bale in a long row of haylage bales. This takes about 5 to 7 minutes per each end bale. All the bales betwe=
en the two end bales are not covered in this manner. They are sealed by ramming each bale, causing the 10 to 12 inches of plastic on=
 the end of each bale to seal totally air tight.
  At last, a research proven, economical bale wrapping machine that DOES IT ALL. The versatile Hay Wrap machine not only wraps highl=
y nutritious HAYLAGE bales, it wraps DRY hay bales and can transport and UNROLL your hay, haylage or bedding bales.
  In 1990 and 1991 Michigan State University ran extensive tests comparing the economics of three systems of doing round bale haylag=
e. Hay Wrap Co. came out in first place beating the second place company, a popular total wrap machine, by $4.44 per bale! (This is =
based on labor, depreciation, plastic, and quality of haylage at the end of test.) When wrapping with the Hay Wrap machine at the ra=
te of twenty bales per hour you would be saving $88.80 per hour.
  For most producers, cost control is twice as effective in increasing net profit as increasing sales! If you are still using good h=
ay as a bale cover...let us show you a better way.
  Call 1-800-476-5962 for a video on making haylage and a list of satisfied users or email request to solync@cei.net.

To All Hay Producers,
  The Hay Wrap bale wrapping machine offers more versatility and value for your dollar than any other round bale plastic wrapping ma=
chine on the market.
  How many times have you seen great hay, baled under good conditions, sitting out in the rain and snow. Did you know that just a 2 =
inch rain on a 6' by 5' bale, dumps 37.4 gallons of water on it!!! It's no wonder that after just a few months, the weather has turn=
ed those bales into potbellied water sponges.
  With good hay selling at $80.00 per ton, a 1500 lb. round bale is worth $60.00.
  Universities say that an average of 4-1/2 inches of waste is equal to 25 per cent or 1/4th of the bale. The cost of using hay as a=
 bale cover on our $60.00 bale is $15.00 ($60.00 / 1/4 = $15.00). For a fraction of that cost, you can use plastic to cover your bal=
es.
  On the farm and university tests, time after time, have proven the value of using plastic bale covers.
  Our Hay Wrap Machine can be the missing link to save you more in your round bale system.
  Call our 1-800-476-5962 number, and we will be glad to compare this machine feature for feature with any bale wrapping machine on =
the market.
 Hay Wrap works the first time, every time. . . 
WE GUARANTEE IT!!

**
Copyright 1994 Hay Wrap Inc. All rights reserved. Patent #4,891,930. Prices and specifications subject to change without notice.




---------------------------------170691112128185--
From slc@earth.execpc.com
Date: Tue, 18 Oct 1994 19:32:01 -0400
From: "Stephen L. Castner" <slc@earth.execpc.com>
To: forage-mg@oes.orst.edu
Subject: Russian Wild Rye Grass

Is Russian wild rye grass more succulent than other pasture grasses such as 
brome, quack or reed canary?

A Black Galloway breeder in Alberta winter pastures his cattle on Russian 
wild rye grass with only snow for water.  We plan to try this with our Black 
Galloways, but we are concerned whether Russian wild rye provides more 
moisture to the cattle than does our grass winter pasture.

Black Galloways are especially winter hardy, consume substantially less feed 
than Herefords or Angus, and are excellent grazers.  They originated in 
Scotland, where they are grazed in the hill country with sheep.



|  Stephen L. Castner     slc@execpc.com            |
|  Kaehler's Mill Farm                              |
|  8707 Kaehler's Mill Road                         |
|  Cedarburg, Wisconsin 53012                       |
|  Voice: 414/377-9377   Fax:  414/377-5002         |
|  Registered Black Galloways ~ Registered Targhees |


Newsgroups: misc.rural
From: PA24088@UTKVM1.UTK.EDU
Subject: Re: Chicken species, especially leghorns
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 1994 20:38:51 GMT

>>   I have a chicken question -- are leghorns more skitterish than other
>>chicken species?
>>my book on chickens says that leghorns are more highly strung.
 
If you want a gentle chicken that's a great layer, I recommend the black-sex
link. It is a cross between the barred rock and rhode island red. They are
bred as a production brown egg layer and are often raised by 4-H groups. I
sell the eggs and have been very pleased with their production and disposition.


From sdb5196@tamucc.edu Wed Oct 19 10:45:45 EDT 1994
Article: 4080 of alt.sustainable.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!illuminati.io.com!news.tamu.edu!sdb5196
From: sdb5196@tamucc.edu (samuel d blackstock)
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Subject: Re: Boer Goats
Date: 18 Oct 1994 11:38:54 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station, TX
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <380c4e$63@news.tamu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: falcon.tamucc.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

>From  news.tamu.edu!sdb5196 Fri Oct  7 17:21:30 1994
Path: news.tamu.edu!sdb5196
From: sdb5196@tamucc.edu (samuel d blackstock)
Newsgroups: alt.business.import-export
Subject: Boer Goats
Date: 7 Oct 1994 22:16:32 GMT
Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station, TX
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <374hc0$ov2@news.tamu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: falcon.tamucc.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

anyone interested in import of Boer Goat E#mbryos please let me know. Its 
possible you may be able to buy into our lot and get guarantees and 
choice selection of embros. we are importing oct through nov.send 
request to/ by reply e-mail  to:


	 sdb5196@tamucc.edu
	
	samuel blackstock
	po box 81196
	corpus christi 78468.


    __     ==
/-/(*)> /   \\
/ /~~~\  \   \\    \
  |   | \   \\\\
  ^^^^^     \\\\\
///u u\\\    \\\\\
//!!!!!\\\
 //  \\   
   WW




Article 491 of sci.agriculture:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!insosf1.infonet.net!usenet
From: edwardbarry@ins.infonet.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Subject: boer goats
Date: 22 Mar 1994 00:52:09 GMT
Organization: INFOnet - Iowa Network Services, Inc.
Lines: 8
Message-ID: <2mlffp$avd@insosf1.infonet.net>
Reply-To: edwardbarry@ins.infonet.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: ins.infonet.net

hello
does anyone have any information on boer goats?
i live in no. california, and i have just reaad an article on the boer
goats and their introduction into the u.s.

i am very interested and would appreciate anything on this topic.
sarah
(not edward)


Article 494 of sci.agriculture:
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ug484
From: ug484@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Wes Combs)
Subject: Re: boer goats
Message-ID: <Cn2tHr.B21@suncad.camosun.bc.ca>
Sender: news@suncad.camosun.bc.ca (USENET News System)
Organization: Camosun College, Victoria, B.C.
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 1994 17:20:14 GMT
Lines: 11


I have a brochure on Boer goats but am still in a state of semi-
unpacking but as soon as I find it, I'll get back to you.  The
brochure was distributed by an exporting firm.  I am not overwhelmed
by what I know of them but shall review the info.

Wes Combs, Ph.D.
Consultant in International
	Livestock Development
Victoria, B.C.
-- 


Article 495 of sci.agriculture:
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ug484
From: ug484@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Wes Combs)
Subject: Re: boer goats
Message-ID: <Cn2vEr.Byy@suncad.camosun.bc.ca>
Sender: news@suncad.camosun.bc.ca (USENET News System)
Organization: Camosun College, Victoria, B.C.
Date: Tue, 22 Mar 1994 18:01:37 GMT
Lines: 38


References on Boer goats:

Joubert, D.M. Indigenous South African Sheep and Goats: Their Origin
	and Development. Tropical Science XI(3):185-195.

Not a lot of performance data. 

"Mature Improved Boer goat females weigh between 60 and 75 kg. when
in good condition.  Full grown castrates will reach a weight of no
less than 100 kg. without supplementary feeding."

Australian Breeding Pty Ltd
Business office:
4th Floor, 41 Currie Street
Adelaide SA 5000
Australia
Phone: (08) 410 0233
  International +61 8 410 0233
Fax:   (08) 410 1195
  International +61 8 310 1195

That company title should be Australian Breeding Management Pty Ltd.

ABM claims 170% weaned kids.  No dairy production is given or claimed.

My personal view is that breeds without dairy potential have little use
in international development with the exception of fibre breeds.  

Several other exotic goat breeds have more potential for both meat and
milk.

Wes Combs, PhD
Consultant in International
	Livestock Development

Victoria, CBC
-- 


    CNN Environment 
   
           CLOSE-UP SECOND NOAH'S ARK BEING BUILT IN A PETRI DISH
                                       
   
   
   September 28, 1995
   Web posted at: 12:45 a.m. EDT (0445 GMT)
   
   From Tech Correspondent Lori Waffenschmidt
   
   COLLEGE STATION, Texas (CNN) -- A modern-day Noah is building an ark.
   But this time it's not a boat. It's a breeding program to help save
   endangered species around the world. And the first animal on the list
   is the hunter's hartebeest, a tawny horned creature that's been called
   the most endangered animal of all.
   
   hartebeest The hunter's hartebeest is an African antelope that comes
   from Kenya near the border of Somalia. There's only one of the animals
   left in captivity, and none are known to be left in the wild.
   
   It's a major concern for researchers like Duane Kraemer at Texas A&M
   University. He's working to save the hunter's hartebeest and other
   animals too, through advanced breeding programs like Project Noah's
   Ark. "Project Noah's Ark is an international effort to raise the
   resources necessary to be able to bank the genomes of wildlife species
   to provide a safety net in the event they become endangered or
   extinct," Kraemer says.
   
   Foxworth Researchers say that it might be possible to breed more
   hartebeests from the one living at the Gladys Porter Zoo in
   Brownsville, Texas. Bill Foxworth (158K .aiff sound or 158K .wav
   sound), who is also working on the project at Texas A&M, says that
   they hope to remove eggs from the female and fertilize them with
   frozen sperm taken from male hartebeests in the past.
   
   "We hope to be able to produce embryos, transfer the embryos to a
   closely related species, and then have pregnancies from that," he
   says.
   
   It's an intricate process. Scientists collect sperm from animals, then
   a technician prepares a straw of sperm for freezing. The sperm will be
   stored in liquid nitrogen until it's time for fertilization. It's
   possible to store thousands of specimens in beer keg-sized tanks. Eggs
   are collected as well. When it's time for fertilization, the thawed
   sperm meets the egg. The resulting embryos go into an incubator to
   mature.
   
   fertilization After that, they're ready for in vitro fertilization, or
   the embryos can be frozen until they can be implanted in an
   appropriate host animal. The cryopreservation, or freezing process,
   creates a sort of frozen zoo. It could be the key to the future for
   many endangered species. A crucial step is finding out which animals
   can serve as surrogates for different endangered species.
   
   Once the techniques are perfected, Kraemer hopes to establish mobile
   satellite labs all around the world. In the meantime, time is running
   out for one lonely hunter's hartebeest, standing on the brink of
   extinction.
   
From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!sparky!docman.doc.state.ne.us!news.nde.state.ne.us!hannibal!jharris Fri Apr 15 23:02:45 EDT 1994
Article: 8589 of misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!sparky!docman.doc.state.ne.us!news.nde.state.ne.us!hannibal!jharris
From: jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us (John Harris)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Cashmere Goats your own business
Date: 15 Apr 1994 20:08:15 GMT
Organization: NDE Nebrasks
Lines: 35
Message-ID: <2oms7f$96m@news.nde.state.ne.us>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]


Cashmere Goats the new American business.  Alternative livestock on a
small acreage can mean big profits in a short time. In one year you could
be selling luxurious cashmere at $45.00 per pound. Stud service in your
locality for $300.00 per service. Registered breeding stock for up to
$1,500.00 each and much much more. We started four years ago with imported
goats from Tasmania,Australia, and New Zealand.  We have been selectively
breeding and building our herd. We have three genetically unrelated herds
of registered high quality breeding stock and are offering several of our
1993 kid crop for sale as well as a few 1992 animals.  These high quality
registered breeding stock animals could get you started in this new and
profitable American business.  We can ship Air freight in one day or
deliver for expenses.  If you are interested or want more information
contact. 
John Harris
90417 county road 17
Mitchell, Ne.  69357
call 308-635-1579  or  internet jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us



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Nebraska Western Cashmere
John Harris  jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us
90417 County Road #17
Mitchell Ne 69357   Voice:  (308) 635-1579 fax: (308) 635-6100
_______________________________________________________________


From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!sparky!docman.doc.state.ne.us!news.nde.state.ne.us!hannibal!jharris Fri Apr 15 23:03:18 EDT 1994
Article: 8590 of misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!sparky!docman.doc.state.ne.us!news.nde.state.ne.us!hannibal!jharris
From: jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us (John Harris)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Cashmere Goats control Leafy spurge, thistle
Date: 15 Apr 1994 20:09:15 GMT
Organization: NDE Nebrasks
Lines: 46
Message-ID: <2oms9b$96m@news.nde.state.ne.us>
NNTP-Posting-Host: hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]


Cashmere Goats Control Leafy Spurge, Canadian Thistle, Poison Ivy-oak,
Brush of all types and many other noxious weed types.  Capra the national
Cashmere goat organization has conducted much research in the eradication
of noxious weeds using Cashmere goats.  The research done in Colorado in
conjunction with several county agents confirmed that these types of
vegetation can be controlled and in some cases completely eradicated.  In
my own pasture research was conducted by Ron Tech Agg Service on Canadian
Thistle, bind weed, and Poison Ivy.  The pasture was divided into plots
and treated with a mixture of fertilizers and biological soil building
agents.  The Thistle grew profusely at first as it absorbed the mixture
into its system systemically.  Just as I was ready to begin chopping the
new growth it began to disappear.  The plant had taken on characteristics
that made it not only acceptable but preferred by the goats as feed.  In
the areas that were treated only Alfalfa and grasses remain, while in the
untreated areas there are still Thistles.  With no treatment at all the
Poison Ivy-oak, brush, and Bind weed were eradicated completely.  In
Wyoming these goats are being used successfully to eradicate Soap weed,
Yucca, Cat tail, and brush on a large ranch.  They have been so successful
that Cattle had to be purchased to consume the grasses which grew profusely
with the weeds eradicated.  The goats prefer broad leaf vegetation to
grasses and will consume the grasses only as a last choice.  We are
selling our Cashmere for up to $45 per pound and eliminating unwanted
vegetation at the same time.  If you want information on how to obtain
some of Natures natural weed eaters contact.
John Harris
90417 county road 17
Mitchell, Ne.  69357  or Call 308-635-1579
jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us

  

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Nebraska Western Cashmere
John Harris  jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us
90417 County Road #17
Mitchell Ne 69357   Voice:  (308) 635-1579 fax: (308) 635-6100
_______________________________________________________________



From jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us Thu Jun  2 23:53:00 1994
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 20:45:10 -0600 (MDT)
From: John Harris <jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us>
To: Larry London <london@sunsite.unc.edu>
Subject: Re: Altrnative livestock--- Cashmere goats

Cashmere Goats the new American business.  Alternative livestock on a
small acreage can mean big profits in a short time. In one year you could
be selling luxurious cashmere at $45.00 per pound. Stud service in your
locality for $300.00 per service. Registered breeding stock for up to
$1,500.00 each and much much more. We started four years ago with imported
goats from Tasmania,Australia, and New Zealand.  We have been selectively
breeding and building our herd. We have three genetically unrelated herds
of registered high quality breeding stock and are offering several of our
1993 kid crop for sale as well as a few 1992 animals.  These high quality
registered breeding stock animals could get you started in this new and
profitable American business.  We can ship Air freight in one day or
deliver for expenses.  If you are interested or want more information
contact. 
John Harris
90417 county road 17
Mitchell, Ne.  69357
call 308-635-1579  or  internet jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us

Two cash crops from the same goat at the same time.  This feat has been
successfully accomplished in Texas using spanish meat goats.  The Spanish
does are crossed with a registered high quality Cashmere goat to produce
f1 crosses.  These f1's can be sheared at 9 months and the sheared
Cashmere fleece sold for $45 per pound.  The goat can then be sold for
meat as usual for the second crop at the normal market value. 
This same scheme could be used with milk goats, but its mostly untried at
the present time.  I'm not sure if fleece production and milk production
are genetically mutually exclusive or if both traits could be selected
for.  It would take an adventuresome experimentation to find out.  The
Cashmere's are not noted for their milk production but if one could
produce an animal that had good udders for milk and even average Cashmere
production youd have two crops from one goat at the same time as with the
meat goats.
I started with Pygmys and have crossed them with the Cashmere's and have
had excellent success.  Pygmys are fair Cashmere producers in their own
right.  When crossed with a full blood Cashmere in which the Cashmere
trait is 60% heritable you get great cashmere from the first f1 cross. 
The f2 or 3/4 blood cross produces approximately 80% of the cashmere a
full blood would produce and it is extreamly fine and high quality.  I
have several f2's and f3's and they are producing prime quality fibre.  
If some one were to want to experiment with crossing Cashmere with milk
goats I would work with them in that endeavor.  
I dont have room on my 5 acres but I would do a joint venture with some one
who does have room. Cashmerely yours.    John Harris

Questions asked by several interned responses.  Answers I thought you
might be interested in.
 First the question of how much does one goat produce?
 An adult billie will yield from 2 to 2&1/2 pounds per year and a female
about 1&1/4 to 1&1/3/4 pounds of which 40 to 60 percent is cashmere which
sells for $45 per sheared pound or $135 per dehaired pound .  There has never
been an over production of the worls supply of Cashmere for centuries.  
Cashmere is an old old business.  
The majority of the world supplies come from Angola, Afghanistan, Iraq, Iran, 
Turkey, and of course Cashmere.  You can see that these countries are not 
the most stable and reliable places to rely on for your supply of any 
thing.  That is why the Fortey Cashmere company financed the Cashmere 
breeders association to the tune of $30,000 to establish a domestic herd 
of Cashmere producing goats.  They want a reliable supply.  All of the 
animals that are in the US have been imported through the quarentine 
process at great expense.  There are about 18,000 of these critters now 
with expectations of 20 million to produce the quantities of Cashmere 
that is required now at current usage rates.  As you can see we will be 
several years in achieving this goal.  It wont happen over night like pot 
bellied pigs.  This is more than a fad livestock.  There is a solid 
industry underlying the Cashmere business.  You are correct in your 
appraisal of the need for breeding stock, now and for many years to 
come.  That is why you would want registered breeding stock yourself,  so 
you can be a supplier of breeding stock to other growers.  With the 
Mohair subsidy being discontinued there are lots of Angora goat herds 
that will be sold at 10 cents on the dollar, in exchange for Cashmere 
goats at top dollar that produce fibre that does'nt need a subsidy.  
These are some of the underlying reasons why I got into Cashmere and it 
looks better and better every year.  I hope this has answered some of 
your concerns.  I welcome questions like these because most people are 
not aware of these facts.  Thanks for your inquiry.
Cashmerely yours.   John Harris





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Nebraska Western Cashmere
John Harris  jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us
90417 County Road #17
Mitchell Ne 69357   Voice:  (308) 635-1579 fax: (308) 635-6100
_______________________________________________________________

Date: 5 Apr 1994 20:11:23 GMT
From: John Harris <jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us>
To: sustag-public@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Cashmere goats eradicate Leafy Spurge


After several test plots

Using Cashmere goats has enabled me to eradicate Leafy spurge,Canadian
thissel, and sope weed from my pastures.  While improving my pastures with
the use of Cashmere goats I am also selling the Cashmere for up to $45.00
per pound, and high quality breeding stock imported from Australia, New
Zealand and Tasmania for good profits.  

If you are interested in acquiring some of these animals for your own use 
contact: 


John Harris

90417 county road 17
Mitchell, Ne.  69357

call 308-635-1579

internet jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us


From jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us Thu Jun  2 22:13:49 1994
Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 19:35:02 -0600 (MDT)
From: John Harris <jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us>
To: london@sunsite.unc.edu
Subject: Cashmere to controll weeds

Cashmere Goats Control Leafy Spurge, Canadian Thistle, Poison Ivy-oak,
Brush of all types and many other noxious weed types.  Capra the national
Cashmere goat organization has conducted much research in the eradication
of noxious weeds using Cashmere goats.  The research done in Colorado in
conjunction with several county agents confirmed that these types of
vegetation can be controlled and in some cases completely eradicated.  In
my own pasture research was conducted by Ron Tech Agg Service on Canadian
Thistle, bind weed, and Poison Ivy.  The pasture was divided into plots
and treated with a mixture of fertilizers and biological soil building
agents.  The Thistle grew profusely at first as it absorbed the mixture
into its system systemically.  Just as I was ready to begin chopping the
new growth it began to disappear.  The plant had taken on characteristics
that made it not only acceptable but preferred by the goats as feed.  In
the areas that were treated only Alfalfa and grasses remain, while in the
untreated areas there are still Thistles.  With no treatment at all the
Poison Ivy-oak, brush, and Bind weed were eradicated completely.  In
Wyoming these goats are being used successfully to eradicate Soap weed,
Yucca, Cat tail, and brush on a large ranch.  They have been so successful
that Cattle had to be purchased to consume the grasses which grew profusely
with the weeds eradicated.  The goats prefer broad leaf vegetation to
grasses and will consume the grasses only as a last choice.  We are
selling our Cashmere for up to $45 per pound and eliminating unwanted
vegetation at the same time.  If you want information on how to obtain
some of Natures natural weed eaters contact.
John Harris
90417 county road 17
Mitchell, Ne.  69357  or Call 308-635-1579
jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us

Cashmere Goats the new American business.  Alternative livestock on a
small acreage can mean big profits in a short time. In one year you could
be selling luxurious cashmere at $45.00 per pound. Stud service in your
locality for $300.00 per service. Registered breeding stock for up to
$1,500.00 each and much much more. We started four years ago with imported
goats from Tasmania,Australia, and New Zealand.  We have been selectively
breeding and building our herd. We have three genetically unrelated herds
of registered high quality breeding stock and are offering several of our
1993 kid crop for sale as well as a few 1992 animals.  These high quality
registered breeding stock animals could get you started in this new and
profitable American business.  We can ship Air freight in one day or
deliver for expenses.  If you are interested or want more information
contact. 
John Harris
90417 county road 17
Mitchell, Ne.  69357
call 308-635-1579  or  internet jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us

Questions asked by several interned responses.  Answers I thought you
might be interested in.
 First the question of how much does one goat produce?
 An adult billie will yield from 2 to 2&1/2 pounds per year and a female
about 1&1/4 to 1&1/3/4 pounds of which 40 to 60 percent is cashmere which
sells for $45 per sheared pound or $135 per dehaired pound .  There has never
been an over production of the worls supply of Cashmere for centuries.  
Cashmere is an old old business.  
The majority of the world supplies come from Angola, Afghanistan, Iraq, Iran, 
Turkey, and of course Cashmere.  You can see that these countries are not 
the most stable and reliable places to rely on for your supply of any 
thing.  That is why the Fortey Cashmere company financed the Cashmere 
breeders association to the tune of $30,000 to establish a domestic herd 
of Cashmere producing goats.  They want a reliable supply.  All of the 
animals that are in the US have been imported through the quarentine 
process at great expense.  There are about 18,000 of these critters now 
with expectations of 20 million to produce the quantities of Cashmere 
that is required now at current usage rates.  As you can see we will be 
several years in achieving this goal.  It wont happen over night like pot 
bellied pigs.  This is more than a fad livestock.  There is a solid 
industry underlying the Cashmere business.  You are correct in your 
appraisal of the need for breeding stock, now and for many years to 
come.  That is why you would want registered breeding stock yourself,  so 
you can be a supplier of breeding stock to other growers.  With the 
Mohair subsidy being discontinued there are lots of Angora goat herds 
that will be sold at 10 cents on the dollar, in exchange for Cashmere 
goats at top dollar that produce fibre that does'nt need a subsidy.  
These are some of the underlying reasons why I got into Cashmere and it 
looks better and better every year.  I hope this has answered some of 
your concerns.  I welcome questions like these because most people are 
not aware of these facts.  Thanks for your inquiry.
Cashmerely yours.   John Harris

Two cash crops from the same goat at the same time.  This feat has been
successfully accomplished in Texas using spanish meat goats.  The Spanish
does are crossed with a registered high quality Cashmere goat to produce
f1 crosses.  These f1's can be sheared at 9 months and the sheared
Cashmere fleece sold for $45 per pound.  The goat can then be sold for
meat as usual for the second crop at the normal market value. 
This same scheme could be used with milk goats, but its mostly untried at
the present time.  I'm not sure if fleece production and milk production
are genetically mutually exclusive or if both traits could be selected
for.  It would take an adventuresome experimentation to find out.  The
Cashmere's are not noted for their milk production but if one could
produce an animal that had good udders for milk and even average Cashmere
production youd have two crops from one goat at the same time as with the
meat goats.
I started with Pygmys and have crossed them with the Cashmere's and have
had excellent success.  Pygmys are fair Cashmere producers in their own
right.  When crossed with a full blood Cashmere in which the Cashmere
trait is 60% heritable you get great cashmere from the first f1 cross. 
The f2 or 3/4 blood cross produces approximately 80% of the cashmere a
full blood would produce and it is extreamly fine and high quality.  I
have several f2's and f3's and they are producing prime quality fibre.  
If some one were to want to experiment with crossing Cashmere with milk
goats I would work with them in that endeavor.  
I dont have room on my 5 acres but I would do a joint venture with some one
who does have room. Cashmerely yours.    John Harris


  



  ####    ####     ##     #####   ####
 #    #  #    #   #  #      #    #
 #       #    #  #    #     #     ####
 #  ###  #    #  ######     #         #
 #    #  #    #  #    #     #    #    #
  ####    ####   #    #     #     ####

Nebraska Western Cashmere
John Harris  jharris@hannibal.wncc.cc.ne.us
90417 County Road #17
Mitchell Ne 69357   Voice:  (308) 635-1579 fax: (308) 635-6100
_______________________________________________________________

From MARCIEROSE@aol.comMon Sep 18 01:00:30 1995
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 12:46:46 -0400
From: MARCIEROSE@aol.com
To: JPOPENOE@aol.com, sanet-mg@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: chicken candling query.

Dear JPOPNOE,

I often see posts like yours on various boards.  I'm glad their are "chicken
novices" out there (better than being a "novice chicken," heh? ;-)   I have
to ask, are you aware of Cooperative Extension and the resources available to
you?  Have you called your local Cooperative Extension office?  Your tax
dollars at both the county and federal level support these information
dissemination efforts.

A good basic book on all poultry is Raising Poultry the Modern Way by Leonard
S. Mercia, a former Vermont Extension agent.  It is published by Garden Way,
a division of Storey Communications, Inc.  It's probably available from the
feed store where you bought your chicks/feed; any book store could order it
for you.  It has a section on making a candling light for home use.  Candling
is use to see if an egg has been fertilized or has a blood spot in it.

Good luck!  We need more new aggies on any scale.  Remember there are no dumb
questions.

Marcie

PS to Sanetters

RE: where does food come from - another consequence of our urbanization is
the lack of awareness by the general public of the Cooperative Extension
Service.  
I know "trolling for clients" is not what everyone wants to do in an era of
declining budgets.  However (pardon the pun) this is a classic
chicken-and-the-egg argument.  Maybe it's time for Extension to reach out to
potential farmers.  Those folks already in agriculture are usually aware of
Extension but the 3rd generation of (sub)urbanites are not.  As these people
show an increasing interest in small town America, they will need sources of
education.

From sals@coyote.rain.orgMon Sep 18 01:01:05 1995
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 95 08:24:02 PDT
From: sal <sals@coyote.rain.org>
To: sanet-mg@amani.ces.ncsu.edu, JPOPENOE@aol.com
Subject: RE: chicken candling query.


On Sat, 16 Sep 1995 22:34:09 -0400  JPOPENOE@aol.com wrote:
>I was recently asked about candling eggs.  What can be told by candling?
>condition of egg? whether it is fertilized? Also, I have been told chickens
>produce one egg every 26 hours.  But it must vary.  What is a high rate of
>production? A low?  If anyone can enlighen us chicken novices it would be
>much appreciated.  Thank you.
>
You can candle eggs and watch the progress.  You see right off what is living and then can watch the baby chick grow.  YOu can keep an eye on the air pocket.  That will tell you a lot about if you temperature and humidity is right.  you can tell about when they are to hatch and move them to the hatching area. No one know how many eggs are in a chicken or how big the clutch will be.  Many things can happen.  Someting can scare the hen and will throw her off.  I use to love candling.  You get to watch the chick from a blood spot to live baby.  I always make the date I put the egg in right on the egg that way I have something to watch when I turn the eggs.  If you have the temp. and hum. right you can hatch a lot of healthy chicks if not you will see it in the candling and can correct..   Chickens are so easy to hatch and raise and from just a few chickens you can soon have a big flock.  Thats way I could not every understand way ther are people starving.  its not nature.  From!
  a few chickens you can soon have 1000's.  You can have chickens and eggs forever. The incubators of today make it so easy to hatch eggs. The chickens will lay again when you take the eggs away.  If you are lucky enough to get a hen that will set let her.   I feel those are always the strongest and healthiest chicks.  Mom know how to take care of her eggs the best.  Still if you want lots of chicks fast incubate.  I would always candle the eggs about 4 or 5 times before they hatch watch the temp. hum every day when adding water.  Good luck

  -------------------------------------
Name: Sal Schettino
E-mail: sals@rain.org
homepage of an organic farmer
http://www.rain.org/~sals/my.html
Date: 09/17/95
Time: 08:41:09

-------------------------------------
 

From sals@mail.rain.orgMon Sep 18 22:27:50 1995
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 95 07:58:11 PDT
From: sal <sals@mail.rain.org>
To: "Lawrence F. London, Jr." <london@calypso-2.oit.unc.edu>,
    sustag-public@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: RE: chicken candling query. 


On Mon, 18 Sep 1995 00:55:02 -0400 (EDT)  Lawrence F. London, Jr. wrote:
>On Sun, 17 Sep 1995, sal wrote:
>
>> You can candle eggs and watch the progress.  You see right off what is 
>living and then can watch the baby chick grow.  YOu can keep an eye on 
>the air pocket.  That will tell you a lot about if you temperature and 
>>humidity is right.  you can tell about when they are to hatch and move 
>
>Why do you look at the air pocket? What do you look for & what does it mean?
>
>


Maybe  I should explain how this works (watching the air cell) . It has to do with weight. .Eggs loose water from when first laid to hatch.  the water loss is caused by temp. and humidity. While incubating the rate of evaporation is controlled.  If the temp. is set then you have to make adjustments by adding water(humidity). The size of the air cell is a good guide to correct levels of humidity, but weighting the eggs is better.  An egg must lose at least 11% of its initial weight in order to hatch.  13% is usually ideal  some say 16%. The loss is not all at once but follows a curve slowly at first then fast at the end.
you can see this loss in the air cell by candling.  Frist it forms a little air cell and it grows as the egg loses weight.  and the chick developed.   you can tell the number of days of inubation by looking at the air cell.  Also you can tell the age of the chick by looking at the growth of th embryo by candeling.  after 2 days you see the blood spot about day 3 the yoke sac blood vessels developed by day 5 you see growth of embryo. By day 12  you see the increasing size of the air cell. Near the end from day 16 on, it is fully blacked out  with air cell really showing.  Its better to lower the hum. near the end to help the chick get out of the shell.  
Article 6945 of misc.rural:
Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!rpi!jonesm2
From: jonesm2@alum01.its.rpi.edu (Michael David Jones)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Poultry novice looking for suggestions
Date: 13 Nov 1993 02:18:03 GMT
Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY, USA
Lines: 14
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <2c1g4s$iu3@usenet.rpi.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: alum01.its.rpi.edu
Keywords: poultry chickens

We're thinking of getting some laying hens. Does anybody have any
experience with or information about the following breeds of chicken?
  Ancona
  Black Minorca
  Brown Leghorn
We heard about them through the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy;
they're fairly rare breeds.

 Mike Jones |  jonesm2@rpi.edu

Number of governors who say they would veto any proposed state restrictions
on abortion: 30
Number who said this in 1989: 5
	- Harper's Index, September 1992


From sals@mail.rain.orgMon Sep 18 22:27:26 1995
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 95 07:58:11 PDT
From: sal <sals@mail.rain.org>
To: "Lawrence F. London, Jr." <london@calypso-2.oit.unc.edu>,
    sustag-public@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: RE: chicken candling query. 


On Mon, 18 Sep 1995 00:55:02 -0400 (EDT)  Lawrence F. London, Jr. wrote:
>On Sun, 17 Sep 1995, sal wrote:
>
>> You can candle eggs and watch the progress.  You see right off what is 
>living and then can watch the baby chick grow.  YOu can keep an eye on 
>the air pocket.  That will tell you a lot about if you temperature and 
>>humidity is right.  you can tell about when they are to hatch and move 
>
>Why do you look at the air pocket? What do you look for & what does it mean?
>
>


Maybe  I should explain how this works (watching the air cell) . It has to do with weight. .Eggs loose water from when first laid to hatch.  the water loss is caused by temp. and humidity. While incubating the rate of evaporation is controlled.  If the temp. is set then you have to make adjustments by adding water(humidity). The size of the air cell is a good guide to correct levels of humidity, but weighting the eggs is better.  An egg must lose at least 11% of its initial weight in order to hatch.  13% is usually ideal  some say 16%. The loss is not all at once but follows a curve slowly at first then fast at the end.
you can see this loss in the air cell by candling.  Frist it forms a little air cell and it grows as the egg loses weight.  and the chick developed.   you can tell the number of days of inubation by looking at the air cell.  Also you can tell the age of the chick by looking at the growth of th embryo by candeling.  after 2 days you see the blood spot about day 3 the yoke sac blood vessels developed by day 5 you see growth of embryo. By day 12  you see the increasing size of the air cell. Near the end from day 16 on, it is fully blacked out  with air cell really showing.  Its better to lower the hum. near the end to help the chick get out of the shell.  
From lhoover@ivory.trentu.ca Sat Nov 26 19:16:59 EST 1994
Article: 13526 of misc.rural
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!blaze.trentu.ca!ivory.trentu.ca!LHOOVER
From: lhoover@ivory.trentu.ca (Larry Hoover, Chemistry Department)
Subject: Re: Deer fence
Message-ID: <1994Nov23.143728.11121@blaze.trentu.ca>
Sender: news@blaze.trentu.ca (USENET News System)
Reply-To: lhoover@ivory.trentu.ca
Organization: Trent University, Peterborough
References: <3aur3i$min@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 1994 14:37:28 GMT
Lines: 32

In article <3aur3i$min@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>, MarkZall@ix.netcom.com (Mark Zaller) writes:
>The deer eat almost everything at a house/farm I have, and I now want to 
>plant several hundred fruit trees and grape vines. I think a fence is 
>the best way to minimize the problem since I am sometimes gone for 
>several weeks at a time. There is an exisiting 4 ft barbed wire fence 
>around the perimeter that doesn't even slow them down. Locals tell me a 
>fence needs to be 8 feet high to stop them, but any fence over 6 ft must 
>have a 50 ft set back from the property line.
>
>Instead of an 8 ft fence I am thinking of a 6 ft fence 2.5-3.5 ft in 
>from the barbed wire fence around 2 acres. I hear that deer can jump 
>high, or jump far, but not high and far. Has anybody studied the way a 
>deer jumps a tall fence? Do they take a 6 ft fence on the run, or stop 
>and jump? How far apart should I space the two fences so that a deer 
>can't jump from between the two fences, or over both of them together ? 
>2.5, 3, 3.5 ft ? Has anybody tried the two fence idea?
>
>-Mark Zaller

Based on the requirements of the local deer-farming community (over 100 
dedicated deer farms in my area of Ontario), an eight foot fence is indeed 
essential. It has also been found that a truly motivated deer *can* clear 
one of these. It occurs to me that a six foot fence might work, if at the 
top a T-shaped cross piece is added. This may then prevent the long and 
high jumps which the deer might attempt.


********************************************************************************
Larry E. Hoover                                 internet: lhoover@trentu.ca
c/o Chemistry Department                             lab: (705)748-1201
Trent University, Peterborough, Ont. K9J 7B8        home: (705)799-2174
********************************************************************************


From shore@dinah.tc.cornell.edu Sat Nov 26 19:18:33 EST 1994
Article: 13528 of misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.tc.cornell.edu!dinah.tc.cornell.edu!shore
From: shore@dinah.tc.cornell.edu (Melinda Shore)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Deer fence
Date: 23 Nov 1994 16:04:47 GMT
Organization: No Mountain Software
Lines: 12
Message-ID: <3avp6v$32km@theory.tc.cornell.edu>
References: <3aur3i$min@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> <1994Nov23.143728.11121@blaze.trentu.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: dinah.tc.cornell.edu

In article <1994Nov23.143728.11121@blaze.trentu.ca> lhoover@ivory.trentu.ca writes:
>It occurs to me that a six foot fence might work, if at the 
>top a T-shaped cross piece is added. This may then prevent the long and 
>high jumps which the deer might attempt.

Maybe, but last fall I saw a deer sail over a 5' electrified
fence from a standstill.  Deer can really jump.
--
        Melinda Shore - No Mountain Software - shore@tc.cornell.edu
                       I don't speak for Cornell.
                    Software longa, hardware brevis.
          IF YOU SEND ME HARASSING EMAIL, I'LL PROBABLY POST IT



From ng13@cornell.eduSat Mar 25 21:08:40 1995
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 1995 04:55:27 +0000
From: Nancy Grudens Schuck <ng13@cornell.edu>
To: sanet-mg@ces.ncsu.edu
Cc: jg16@cornell.edu
Subject: Re: deer fence

Hi, Kevin Smyth. Here in New York, and other states and provinces, we learn
a lot from farmers who raise fallow deer, and hence place a high priority
on keeping them IN. Several systems are worth looking at - although some
are more *serious* (e.g. expensive) than you probably intend. Although this
plan you propose sounds rather pricey just the same. A packet on deer
farming, and addresses of the North American Deer Farmers Assn. is
available from the Farming Alternatives Program, Warren Hall, Cornell
University, Ithaca, NY 14853 (607) 255-9832. Good luck! Nancy Grudens
Schuck

>Two four foot tall fences running parallel four feet apart will
>keep deer out of a field, so I'm told. Supposedly they won't jump
>the outer fence for fear of landing on the inner fence. Has anyone
>out there heard of this? Does it really work? Anyone have any
>experience with this? please let me know - deer are a MAJOR
>problem here in s.e. Ohio. Thanks - I am ksmyth@igc.apc.org

***************************
Nancy Grudens Schuck
108 Kennedy Hall
Dept. Education
Cornell University
Ithaca, NY 14853
ng13@cornell.edu
(607) 255-4197
***************************

From devo0009@gold.tc.umn.eduWed Apr 12 12:48:54 1995
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 95 09:16:01 -0500
From: "Brian A. DeVore" <devo0009@gold.tc.umn.edu>
To: sanet-mg@ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Factory Hog Resource

HERE ARE THREE GOOD RESOURCES ON FACTORY HOGS AND THE ALTERNATIVES:

BOSS HOG: NORTH CAROLINA'S PORK REVOLUTION
This is a ground-breaking series of investigative articles originally published 
by the Raleigh News & Observer in February and March, 1995. They take a hard 
look at the environmental, economic and social effects of North Carolina's 
factory hog industry. These articles offer excellent documentation of what 
happens when livestock production is concentrated in the hands of a few powerful
interests with strong political ties.
Reprints can be ordered by sending a $5 check to: New Media/Boss Hog, P.O. Box 
191, Raleigh, N.C. 27602 (make checks payable to New Media; please send a 
mailing label for each place you want the reprints sent to -- they do not have 
to be gummed labels).

PROFITABILITY OF A SUSTAINABLE HOG AND BEEF FARM IN MINNESOTA

The case study, put together by the Land Stewardship Project and the Minnesota 
Department of Agricultue, features an enterprise analysis of a sustainably 
managed beef and hog operation in southern Minnesota. Low-cost buildings and 
managed pastures are two of the many strategies this farm family uses to contain
costs and insure profits.
To order, send $3, plus $1 shipping & handling for the first book, 50 cents for 
each additional one to: LSP, 2200 4th St., White Bear Lake, MN 55110 (for 10 or 
more, please call 612/653-0618 for a bulk discount; Minn. residents add 6.5% 
sales tax).

A GENTLER WAY -- SOWS ON PASTURE: REPORTS FROM SUSTAINABLE FARMERS FROM 
MINNESOTA & IOWA
Compiled by Dwight and Becky Ault of Austin, Minn., this 23-page booklet 
includes several articles on pasture farrowing of hogs. It is packed full of 
firsthand, practical information that the Aults and other area farmers have 
gathered from many years of raising hogs on pasture. The publication was 
produced with the help of the Land Stewardship Project, Sustainable Farming 
Association of Minnesota, the Minnesota Department of Agriculture's Sustainable 
Agriculture Program, and the Practical Farmers of Iowa.
To order, send $3 for a single copy, $2 for two or more to: Dwight Ault, Rt. 1, 
Box 230, Austin, MN 55912.


 ?  .     i   ..   ?  llama.faq.1  ?   llama.faq.2-periodicals  ?  Lambing.FAQ.1-1995   ?  Lambing.FAQ  ?  Lambing.FAQ.5-23-95  ?  Haying.FAQ.6-1-1995  ?   Pasture.FAQ.6-3-1995     ?, Lambing.FAQ.7-25-1995                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Article 7302 of triangle.general:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!koriel!decwrl!decwrl!world!news.bu.edu!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!jmoore
From: jmoore@unity.ncsu.edu (Jeannette A Moore)
Newsgroups: triangle.general
Subject: Farm Animal Days - a free event for kids
Date: 8 Apr 1994 21:04:42 GMT
Organization: North Carolina State University
Lines: 36
Message-ID: <2o4gta$kd5@taco.cc.ncsu.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: cc02du.unity.ncsu.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

NCSU's departments of Animal and Poultry Science, along with the NC
Agricultural Research Service and the NC Farm Bureau, are holding a free 
event for children.  It is the 1994 Farm Animal Days, and it is designed 
to let young children see and pet farm animals, and to learn about 
agriculture.

WHEN: April 13, 14, and 15 (Wed-Fri) from 9:00 am until 2:00 pm

WHERE: NCSU's Lake Wheeler Road Field Laboratory, on Lake Wheeler Road 
two miles south of I-40 (there will be signs & people to help you park)

ACTIVITIES:
-  Demonstration of cow milking (every half hour)
-  Pet the animals: pigs, rabbits, sheep, goats, chicks
-  Other animals to see: cows, horses
-  Demonstration of sheep shearing (noon each day)
-  Teachers and parents receive a free informational pamphlet
-  Children receive a free coloring book (while they last)

IF YOU WISH TO ATTEND:
No pre-registration is necessary.  Come any time after 9:00; there will 
be people there to direct you where to park.  We close at 2:00, so be 
sure to come early enough to see everything by 2:00.  Many 
teachers/parents bring a picnic lunch and eat on the grass.  In the past, 
Thursday has been the busiest day, so consider coming Wednesday or Friday 
if you can.  Also, lunch time is much busier than 9:00-11:00.

This event is designed for children that are 3rd grade or younger, but 
everyone who is interested is welcome to come!  We ask that you stop by 
the registration table so we can get a count of how many people attend.

IF YOU NEED MORE INFORMATION:
Call Nelda Pryse or Fay White at 515-3028, or Jeannette Moore at 
515-4010.  All the information you need is in this flyer and we are 
pretty busy this time of year, so we would rather just see you at Farm 
Animal Days!!    :-)


From jhenning@ca.uky.edu Fri Apr  8 11:43:24 1994
Date: Tue 5 Apr 94 9:27:19:68
From: Jimmy Carrol Henning <jhenning@ca.uky.edu>
To: forage-mg@oes.orst.edu
Subject: vitamin/minerals in fescue

TO: Forage Electronic Mail Group
From: Jimmy Henning, University of Kentucky
Re: Vitamin/mineral content of fescue

Dr. Larry Watson, Livestock Management Services
Box 351, Sycamore, IL 60178 would like information
on the the Vitamin A,D,E and trace mineral content
of tall fescue pasture and hay, especially the
vitamin content.

You may contact him directly by mail
or phone 815 756 5100
or fax 815 756 6310

or you can send the data to me and I will forward it.

Jimmy Henning
UK Agronomy
N-122 ASC-N
Lexington, KY 40546-0091
606 257 3144/fax 323-1952
---
Jimmy C Henning
UK Agronomy
Ph 606 257 3144
Fx 606 323 1952
jhenning@ca.uky.edu
From JPB@ag-eco.tamu.edu Wed Aug 31 00:29:21 1994
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 1994 17:10:07 CST
From: "Joel P. Bach" <JPB@ag-eco.tamu.edu>
To: sanet-mg@ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: Range Chickens - Info Source

Regarding the discussion on Free Ranging Chickens:

[  Posting from John Luna (Dept. HORT - Oregon State)
[     (lunaj@BCC.ORST.EDU)
[ One exempary operation involving a system of movable cage "free range"
[ chickens is that of Joel Salatin in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia.
[ These birds are contained in open-bottomed cages which are moved daily
[ across pasture fields.  The birds are sold in advance to subscription
[ customers, killed and cleaned in an on-farm facility, and picked up on the
[ day of slaughter by the customer. The quality of the meat from birds who
[ have lived outdoors, eaten fresh forage daily and had the opportunity to
[ have sunshine, fresh air, and exercise is phenomenal.  It is not comparable
[ to factory-raised meat at all.
[
[ [The rest of the message is left off - but was posted to SANET today.]
[

  Thanks for the additional info, Dr./Mr. Luna.

 I posted this to Michael Mayer (the initial request) this morning:
      (michm@freenet.tlh.fl.us)
   (He asked: Does anyone have any info on free range chickens?)
 
- Last summer, I was interviewed by the Kerr Foundation for
- Sustainable Agriculture (located in Poteau, Oklahoma).
-
- They have an impressive project relating to free-ranging chickens.
- They also have worked with folks who are interested in composting
- (even dead broilers) and other SA areas on small farms.
- I know that they *may* have some useful information.
-
- Here is the address:
-
- The Kerr Center for Sustainable Agriculture, Inc.
- P.O. Box 588
- Poteau, Oklahoma 74953
- (918) 647-9123
- FAX: (918) 647-8712
-
- A good contact would initially be: Alan Ware, Staff Horticulturist
- Sorry, I don't have a network address for them, and do not
- know if they have a connection.
-
- They are involved in actual model farm systems with every
- aspect of SA including agroforestry, a SA hort farm,
- various size composting projects, SA livestock grazing
- systems, etc., etc.  I am relatively sure that they would
- be glad to yield some useful information if they can.

  JPB


--------------------------------------------------------------------------

             Joel P. (JP) Bach          (409) 845-0996  Voice
      Range Ecology & Mgmt. (MS 2126)   (409) 845-5579 RLEM Sec'y
        and Agri-Economics (MS 2124)    (409) 845-2336 AGEC Sec'y
            Texas A&M University        (409) 845-6430  FAX
        College Station, Texas 77843      jpb@ag-eco.tamu.edu

            "First there was the grass - then the people"
       "When there's no more grass, there'll be no more people"

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From mghia@moose.uvm.eduMon Oct 23 23:41:25 1995
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 10:49:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Michael J. Ghia" <mghia@moose.uvm.edu>
To: pltrynws@sdsuvm.sdstate.edu
Cc: sanet-mg@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: Free Range/Pastured Poultry/Poultry Manure (fwd)

To the Poultry News Network and the Sustainable Agriculture Network:

	I am currently  trying to finish up my master's degree here at 
the University of Vermont.  I am looking for literature for my research 
concerning poultry on
pasture (which thus far has been hard to come by--I made postings here 
and to a few other discussion groups last winter with very little 
reply-the National Ag Library only had limited info as well).  Below is a 
synopsis of my research.  If you have any information that might be 
vaguely  usefulfor my lit review, please let me know.  Also, if you 
could suggest any other discussion groups that I might try, that would 
also be greatly apprectiated.
Thank You
 Michael Ghia mghia@moose.uvm.edu
c/o Dr. Sid Bosworth
Plant and Soils's Department
Hills Building 
UVM
Burlington, Vermont 05405
 
	In 1993, I raised 1125 meat chickens (broilers).  900 chickens 
were raised "on range" in floorless moveable pens, sometimes refered to 
as "chicken tractors".  They are moved on a regular basis and are usually 
integrated within a "rotational-" or "rational- grazing"  skeme.  For 
instance, (farmer)Joel Salatin in Virginia grazes his beef cattle ahead of 
his 
chicken pens ("co-grazing").  However, I did not have other livestock 
(though would be interested in relevant literature). The range birds also 
had access to grain. The other 225 chickens were raised in a 
barn and only had access to grain for feed.   In addition, there were two 
other treatments in 1993:  sod plots which were mowed everytime the 
chicken pasture plots were grazed or mowed; silage corn raised without 
fertilizer. 
Both plots played a role in the 1994 phase, but the sod was also relevant 
in 1993.
Data taken in 1993:
	-chicken growth rates and grain consumption comparing outdoor and 
indoor birds
	-forage consumption estimates of range birds
	-dress slaughter weights of all birds
	-pasture and sod growth rate comparisons
	-fertility comparison over time comparing sod and pasture plots, 
focusing on nitrate and ammonia, but all other nutrients were analyzed 
(lab-wise- I do not know if I will ever get to do 
the statistic on the rest of them)
	-nutrient movement in the soil profile (nitrate leaching)
	-I might trying to compare the economics between the outdoor and 
the indoor raised birds, and also animal health (cull/loss rates) since 
neither group had antibiotics in their feed. (antibiotics in the feed is 
the standard practice).

	In 1994, all three treatments (corn, sod, pasture) were plowed 
down and sweet corn was planted.  There were subplots applied to the 
original treatments --a plus nitrogen (chemical fertilizer), and 0 
nitrogen treatment.  Corn was harvested as marketable sweet corn.

Data taken in 1994:
	-soil nitrate and ammonia in the soil of each treatment and 
subtreatment before, during and after the growing season.
	-nitrogen movement through the soil profile -leaching
	-compared corn yield and corn biomass between the treatments and 
subtreatments.
	-Compared nitrogen uptake between the three treatments and the two 
subtreatments as "Total Keldal (sp?) Nitrogen(TKN)".

That is it in a nutshell.  Thanks again for your help. 
 Mike




Article 5132 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!tromaville.manassas.ibm.com!dave
From: dave@tromaville.manassas.ibm.com ()
Subject: Free Ranging Fowl
Sender: news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster)
Message-ID: <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1993 13:27:59 GMT
Reply-To: irby@vnet.ibm.com
Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM.
Nntp-Posting-Host: tromaville.manassas.ibm.com
Organization: IBM, Federal Systems Company
Lines: 19

Hi,
  I'm looking for some information that goes into detail about
free-ranging chickens, ducks and/or geese.  I've read a couple of books
("Raising Poultry the Modern Way" and "The Home Duck Flock") but so far they
have just given passing mention to free ranging.  I've never raised any fowl
before and I feel that I need more detailed information.  I think I would like 
to free range to save on feed costs but I'm really not sure what the drawbacks 
are (eggs harder to find maybe??).  I saw some plans in Eliot Coleman's 
"New Organic Grower" for a movable chicken house (on skids) that he uses to
free range chickens on pasture land and I've read some articles in magazines
about using birds as weeders which sounds interesting. If you know of a good
book or have some experience/advice to share I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
dave. 
-- 
David Irby   irby@vnet.ibm.com

Dammit Jim! - All ideas and opinions expressed herein are my own. 


Article 5152 of misc.rural:
Path: samba!concert!rock!taco!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv!andy
From: andy@elviss.eng.sun.com (Andrew Davidson)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
Date: 27 Apr 93 09:54:38
Organization: MASTERS OF THE KNOWN UNIVERSE
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <ANDY.93Apr27095438@elviss.eng.sun.com>
References: <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com> <1993Apr26.185937.6971@mlfarm.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: elviss
In-reply-to: ron@mlfarm.com's message of Mon, 26 Apr 1993 18:59:37 GMT

In article <1993Apr26.185937.6971@mlfarm.com> ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence) writes:

   Newsgroups: misc.rural
   Path: appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!sun-barr!olivea!uunet!mercury.hsi.com!mlfarm!rosie!ron
   From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
   Lines: 16
   Sender: news@rosie.mlfarm.com
   Organization: Maple Lawn Farm, Stonington, CT
   References: <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com>
   Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1993 18:59:37 GMT

   dave@tromaville.manassas.ibm.com () writes:

	I'm looking for some information that goes into detail about
      free-ranging chickens, ducks and/or geese.... I'm really not sure
      what the drawbacks are (eggs harder to find maybe??). 

   We free-range our few chickens.  The drawbacks are that they sometimes
   hide their eggs until we discover the new hiding place, and they
   sometimes make a beeline for new plantings in the gardens.  One year
   newly planted zinnias disappeared overnight.  For the next week, the
   chickens laid purple eggs.

   For much of the year we don't have to feed the chickens, the only
   clean-up is under their roost, they seem to do a good job on weeds,
   grubs, and other nasties, and the eggs are delicious and attractive,
   with deep yellow yolks that are nothing like storebought eggs.
   -- 

				   Ronald Florence
				   ron@mlfarm.com


What about flies? I have heard that free range chickens are great at
reducing flies around that barn yard. I have also heard that they
create more flies than they eat?

Andy


Article 5162 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!asuvax!ennews!mcdphx!schbbs!mothost!white!rtsg.mot.com!blazer9!sticha
From: sticha@blazer9.Berkeley.EDU (David A. Sticha)
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
Message-ID: <1993Apr28.224927.6978@rtsg.mot.com>
Sender: news@rtsg.mot.com
Nntp-Posting-Host: blazer9
Reply-To: sticha@blazer9.Berkeley.EDU (David A. Sticha)
Organization: Motorola Inc., Cellular Infrastructure Group
References:  <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1993 22:49:27 GMT
Lines: 43

news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com writes:
>  I'm looking for some information that goes into detail about
>free-ranging chickens, ducks and/or geese.  I've read a couple of books
>("Raising Poultry the Modern Way" and "The Home Duck Flock") but so far they
>have just given passing mention to free ranging.  I've never raised any fowl
>before and I feel that I need more detailed information.  I think I would like 
>to free range to save on feed costs but I'm really not sure what the drawbacks 
>are (eggs harder to find maybe??).  I saw some plans in Eliot Coleman's 
>"New Organic Grower" for a movable chicken house (on skids) that he uses to
>free range chickens on pasture land and I've read some articles in magazines
>about using birds as weeders which sounds interesting. If you know of a good
>book or have some experience/advice to share I would appreciate it.

I've been free ranging my chickens for four summers now. The benefits include
reduced feed, healthier birds and better tasting eggs. The downside is reduced
egg laying (can't find them all and they use a lot of energy scratching for a
living) and losses due to raccoons, possums, feral cats, and my retriever.
Generally, if I let them out (in an enclosed area if the dog is out, free if she's not) first thing in the morning and remember to lock them up 1/2 hour
before sunset, I have no problems. While they are out, I keep the coop door shut.

My garden is within the 20X20 confines of the chicken yard. I fall sow a cover
crop and let the chickens start on that early in the spring. It also trains
them to stay close to the roost. Always count heads before closing the door for
the night and shoo any inside that have an inclination to roost anywhere else.
After two weeks, my flock of a dozen or so has usually stripped the fall cover
crop to the bare earth and has redeposited it in the form of droppings. I then
turn the garden area over by hand (the soil is butter soft) and plant my early
crops. The chickens then switch to foraging outside the yard. Again, count heads
at night and find any that are trying to go wild. The retriever is good at this.
After the early stuff is cashed in I let the chickens back in for a week or so
and they cleanup the leftovers. I then plant warm weather stuff and the cycle
continues. 

Throughout the summer I keep their feeder filled with laying mash
but it lasts a long time because they don't bother with it except for rainy days.
I also feed them table scraps through out the year, except for meat. Also fruit
cores, rinds, stale (not moldy) bread, etc. In short, any non animal based
organic matter. They do have a tendency to gobble the landscaping and occasionally
mess the porch or patio with their droppings. But the benefits I mentioned above
far outweigh the bad things. Finally, I just enjoy watching them. I've heard
people refer to this form of entertainment as "chicken tv".

Dave Sticha


Article 5169 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mercury.hsi.com!mlfarm!rosie!ron
From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
In-Reply-To: sticha@blazer9.Berkeley.EDU's message of Wed, 28 Apr 1993 22:49:27 GMT
Message-ID: <1993Apr29.185539.10650@mlfarm.com>
Lines: 15
Sender: news@rosie.mlfarm.com
Organization: Maple Lawn Farm, Stonington, CT
References: <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com> <1993Apr28.224927.6978@rtsg.mot.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1993 18:55:39 GMT

David A. Sticha writes:

   I fall sow a cover crop and let the chickens start on that early in
   the spring. ...  After two weeks, my flock of a dozen or so has
   usually stripped the fall cover crop to the bare earth and has
   redeposited it in the form of droppings.

Another option is a `Dutch Roto-Tiller.'  Build a one-meter on a side
cubic frame and cover every side but one with chicken wire.  Put a
couple of chickens inside with the open side down on the garden site.
When the chickens have tilled, weeded, and fertilized that square
meter, move the cube to an untilled area.  In a few days, the whole
garden is done.

We've never tried it.  The chickens like our gardens too much as is.
-- 

				Ronald Florence
				ron@mlfarm.com


Article 5191 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!digex.com!news.intercon.com!psinntp!witch!east-wind!jay
From: jay@east-wind.win.net (Jay Miller)
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
In-Reply-To: andy@elviss.eng.sun.com's message of 27 Apr 93 09:54:38
Message-ID: <JAY.93Apr30132247@east-win.east-wind.win.net>
Sender: jay@east-wind.win.net (Jay Miller)
Organization: East Wind Community, Tecumseh, Missouri, USA
References: <C63Eqn.u0L@hawnews.watson.ibm.com> <1993Apr26.185937.6971@mlfarm.com>
	<ANDY.93Apr27095438@elviss.eng.sun.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1993 19:22:47 GMT
Lines: 36

Regarding free-ranging chickens (I don't know anything about ducks
or geese, I would like to know more about ducks):

I tend the chickens here at East Wind.  We have something I've heard
referred to as an "eggmobile".  It's great.  It's a house on wheels,
ours is about 12' x 18' with 32 nest boxes around the sides, and roosts
inside.  The chickens get into the nest boxes from the inside and they
open up outside to collect the eggs.  Every morning we go out and open
the coop.  The chickens come out and scratch around and eat bugs and 
worms and the like.  We still give them feed, which we put inside the 
coop, so they keep going inside.  At night, they like having a place to
roost, so they go inside.  Someone goes out at dusk and closes up the 
house.  At first you have some of them wanting to roost underneath the
coop, so you have to climb underneath and get them out.  Eventually they
learn and all go inside.  The only time this is trouble is when the coop
is near trees, which they like roosting in almost as well.

We find this to be a great system.  We figured that we get 2/3 the eggs
but provide 1/2 the feed, so we come out ahead.  I'm told that the eggs
have been much healthier since we started doing this, but I wasn't around
before so I don't know.

If you move the coop frequently enough (every 2 weeks or more often) then
the pasture doesn't get too messed up in one spot, and actually thrives
from all the chicken litter being spread on it.  If you have them in a 
pasture with cows, they scratch up the cow patties to get maggots, cutting
down on flies and spreading the manure.
--
--------------------------------------------
Jay Miller               East Wind Community
jay@east-wind.win.net    Tecumseh, MO  65760
--------------------------------------------
-- 
--------------------------------------------
Jay Miller               East Wind Community
jay@east-wind.win.net    Tecumseh, MO  65760


Article 8369 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!ringer!lonestar.utsa.edu!ppowell
From: ppowell@lonestar.utsa.edu (P. K. Powell   )
Subject: Small-scale dairy goat farm
Message-ID: <1994Apr2.195215.23105@ringer.cs.utsa.edu>
Keywords: dairy goat, goat milk, milking
Sender: news@ringer.cs.utsa.edu
Nntp-Posting-Host: lonestar.utsa.edu
Organization: University of Texas at San Antonio
Distribution: na
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 1994 19:52:15 GMT
Lines: 86

I kept dairy goats for years while growing children, but am
not doing either anymore.  The children are grown and I miss
the goats (but not the 2Xdaily milking 365 days a year).

Mary Matejka asked about dairy goats:

1.  If you plan to mil, find a dairy goat herd and talk to
    the owner/breeder.  Buy your stock there.  The breeder
    will probably gladly answer your questions about
    management.  Learn about goat udders and teats.  Buy the
    best stock you can.  Consider buying at least one doe
    already pregnany by the breeder's buck that has the 
    breeding you will want in your flock.  A knowledgeable
    breeder will guide you.  Keeping your own buck is a   
    separate economic venture.  It is sometimes necessary,
    because new goats must always be quarantined in separate
    pens for a while, thus you can't very easily just
    *borrow* buck service during breeding season.

2.  Goats are browsers not grazers.  Goat fencing is
    expensive, therefore most dairy goatkeepers limit the
    pens, therefore herd size.  During Winter and early
    Spring browse is diminished in most areas, thus feed is
    supplemented.

3.  Neighbors eat only 4-6 mo. old kids?  Castrated males
    (wethers) are meatier, and tender enough, if exercise (and 
    NO medicated feed) is limited for a period, say 10 days or 
    more, prior to butchering.  If your herd is not under pressure
    from, say dogs, they're probably tender enough, anyway.  A
    reason to eat young kids may be beed/browse/fence economics.

4.  Mature bucks in *rut*:  Just like whitetail deer, does
    control rut.  They come into estrus with the advance of
    cool Autumn weather, which cues the buck.  Estrus
    continues through Spring unless the doe is successfully
    bred.  Any doe which does not breed during this time
    period should probably be culled.  If you've spent mucho
    $ on a registered doe, check with your vet, AND the
    breeder from whom she was purchased.

    Bucks have a number of musk//scent glands, including those
    up by their horns.  They like to spread this stuff all 
    over their bodies, and *anything* else they can.  Dairy
    goat bucks are penned spearately in an enclosure that 
    does not come in contact with a doe to be milked, because
    that stinkystuff penetrates.  Some does have some musk
    glands also; if she is strong-smelling, she is not a
    candidate for milking for human consumption, and her
    offspring will carry genes for those glands.

5.  Milking only once daily:  A good doe milks about 1 gallon
    daily, and she should be fed sweet feed mix during milking. 
    The example (good management) of penning her kid(s) 
    separately in the evening, and let them stay with the doe
    after milking works well to keep your production and 
    bottle-feeding labor down.  I milked two does, because I 
    needed more milk.  Each doe is milked about 9 months of the
    year, then rested 3 months during later gestation.  By
    staggering doe breeding to one bred early-season, one
    late-season, I kept a minimum of 1 gallon daily, year-round. 
    You will probably not like store-bought cow milk for 3 months
    after drinking rich, fresh goatmilk.  If you only bought 1 doe
    to try this, and agreed with MHO, you could then buy a second
    doe the second year.

    I had a centrifugal cream separator, a goat's butterfat doesn't
    separate out like cow's.  During the high-production, late Spring
    through Summer months, we had white butter, various hard and soft
    cheeses, cream cheese, cultured sour cream, and yoghurt.  Separators
    are hard to find.  New ones cost big$ and shipping time is very
    long, last I knew.

Access your local library system for books about dairy goats.  Your
county/state extension agent and veterinarian may be helpful.
However, often information has to be extrapolated from (1) dairy
science and (2) sheephusbandry references.  Again, the breeder from
whom you purchase stock is probably the best person to help you with
goatkeeping for your area.  I like to think *goat people* are the
finest in the world, although you CAN find jerks everywhere.

If I can help answer any other questions, just ask, here or EMail to 
Kaye, either ppowell@lonestar.utsa.edu or kaye.powell@jtbbs.com.
 

    


From jacril@fn1.freenet.edmonton.ab.ca Mon Jan 29 11:02:41 EST 1996
Article: 10349 of alt.sustainable.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.mindlink.net!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news.sas.ab.ca!fn1.freenet.edmonton.ab.ca!jacril
From: jacril@fn1.freenet.edmonton.ab.ca ()
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Subject: Information about goats available
Date: 28 Jan 1996 20:23:03 GMT
Organization: Edmonton Freenet, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <4eglv7$d3j@news.sas.ab.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: fn1.freenet.edmonton.ab.ca
Summary: Alberta Goat Breeders Association
Keywords: goat information
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2.3]

Are you looking for information about goats of all breeds? The Alberta 
Goat Breeders Association has posted information on Edmonton FreeNet's 
Main Menu of Information Providers. Included are articles on management, 
feeding and housing, as well as upcoming events and a marketplace section.
To get there, telnet to:

gopher://freenet.edmonton.ab.ca/ll/i/agba


email: jacril@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca



Article 633 of alt.agriculture.misc:
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From: andy.nachbaur@beenet.com (ANDY NACHBAUR)
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
Subject: Guinea fowl?
Date: Wed,  2 Mar 1994 02:28:00 GMT
Message-ID: <940302043457204@beenet.com>
Organization: Wild Bee's BBS, 209-826-8107
Distribution: world
Lines: 42   


 +-------------------------------+
###From: geoff@netcom.com (Geoffrey Leach)
###Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
###Subject: Guinea fowl?
###Date: Tue, 1 Mar 1994 16:13:03 GMT
###
###I am looking for sources of information on guinea fowl.
###Care and feeding, sources, ...
###The local county extension researched the question and was unable
###to come up with anything.
 +-------------------------------+

   Hi Geoffrey,

     I have had experience with guinea and pea fowl in Monterey,
Merced, and Mariposia counties.

     First, check for any noise ordnances...they all make a lot of
racket that is quite unsettling to the neighbors, even out in the
country, whats left of it in California.

    As for feeding them when young they do well on most any game
bird or chicken chow, or you can look for some high price special
stuff for them. They are really adapt at fending for themselves and
we never discouraged them from doing just that. They need places they
can hide at night, like a big brush pile, or trees they can get into
to roost. If you let them they will be happy to set in a tree over the
roof of your home and scream bloody murder when you least expect it.
With pea fowl your neighbors 5 miles down the road may call 911 to
report you are murdering your wife.

    The guinea hens are not as bad as the pea fowl, they can defend
themselves and are quick, will do well on their own and reproduce.
Dog packs will work them over at times if they are roosting on the
ground. After the young hatch they are soon on their own, and may
require a little extra care when small if you expect 100% success.

    I think they are great if you have the space, I don't think
guinea's or peacocks are pen birds.

                        ttul Andy-


Article 608 of alt.agriculture.misc:
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Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
Subject: Re: Chickens
Message-ID: <1994Feb23.114443.214@pacs.sunbelt.net>
From: wtraylor@york.tec.sc.us (ERNIE TRAYLOR)
Date: 23 Feb 94 11:44:43 EDT
Reply-To: wtraylor@york.tec.sc.us
References: <1994Feb22.191534.33@kodiak.gvltec.edu>
Organization: York Technical College, Rock Hill, SC, USA
Nntp-Posting-Host: default-gateway
Lines: 15

In article <1994Feb22.191534.33@kodiak.gvltec.edu>, titustgt@kodiak.gvltec.edu writes:
>
>Hi!
>  Does anybody out here in netland have any information concerning chickens,
>ducks and other poultry? I'd like to share experiences with my mini-farm
>operation.


I have a list of roughly 60 hatcheries that carry everything from ducks to
chickens to turkeys to peafowl.  I am currently looking for an extended
list of hatcheries across the US.  If you like I can e-mail you the list
in a couple of days, and if you can, try to find an extended list.

Ernie Traylor
wtraylor@york.tec.sc.us


From pullano@access.mbnet.mb.ca Wed Dec 21 23:13:30 EST 1994
Article: 13937 of misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!pullano
From: pullano@access.mbnet.mb.ca (Richard Pullano)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Help finding Hedgehogs
Date: 19 Dec 1994 19:51:00 GMT
Organization: The University of Manitoba
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <3d4o74$fb@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: access.mbnet.mb.ca

TO: eclarke@bud.peinet.pe.ca 

 
e>       Please help ... I would like to know if anyone out there knows
e>of any  hedgehog breeders in Canada.  I know that there is a breeder
e>in Alberta but I  do not know fo thier name or address.  If you could
e>dirrect me to any  onformation about these aminals please e-mail me.
e>Thanks ! 

There are breeders in BC and some in Manitoba. If you can get a copy of 
the Manitoba Co-operator weekly farm publication, there are usually some 
listed in there. I suppose similar farm (pool elevator) mags would have 
information in Alta also.

Richard Pullano                       pullano@mbnet.mb.ca
General Delivery,                    pullano@freenet.mb.ca
Lockport, Manitoba, Canada                (204)757-4747

 CMPQwk 1.42-17 1525 Thesaurus: ancient reptile with an excellent vocabulary.
                                                               
-- 
Richard Pullano
General Delivery, Lockport, Manitoba, Cda. R0C 1W0
Tel.(204)757-4747 Fax.(204)757-4944
Lockport....Summer Home to the White Pelican


From pullano@access.mbnet.mb.ca Wed Dec 21 23:14:07 EST 1994
Article: 13938 of misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!pullano
From: pullano@access.mbnet.mb.ca (Richard Pullano)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Help finding Hedgehogs
Date: 19 Dec 1994 19:52:21 GMT
Organization: The University of Manitoba
Lines: 25
Message-ID: <3d4o9l$mb@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: access.mbnet.mb.ca

TO: eclarke@bud.peinet.pe.ca 

 
e>       Please help ... I would like to know if anyone out there knows
e>of any  hedgehog breeders in Canada.  I know that there is a breeder
e>in Alberta but I  do not know fo thier name or address.  If you could
e>dirrect me to any  onformation about these aminals please e-mail me.
e>Thanks ! 

There are breeders in BC and some in Manitoba. If you can get a copy of 
the Manitoba Co-operator weekly farm publication, there are usually some 
listed in there. I suppose similar farm (pool elevator) mags would have 
information in Alta also.

Richard Pullano                       pullano@mbnet.mb.ca
General Delivery,                    pullano@freenet.mb.ca
Lockport, Manitoba, Canada                (204)757-4747

 CMPQwk 1.42-17 1525 Thesaurus: ancient reptile with an excellent vocabulary.
                                                               
-- 
Richard Pullano
General Delivery, Lockport, Manitoba, Cda. R0C 1W0
Tel.(204)757-4747 Fax.(204)757-4944
Lockport....Summer Home to the White Pelican


From A.S.Chamove@massey.ac.nz Sun Dec  4 20:02:05 EST 1994
Article: 13657 of misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato!comp.vuw.ac.nz!news.massey.ac.nz!massey.ac.nz!A.S.Chamove
From: A.S.Chamove@massey.ac.nz (Arnold Chamove)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Herdwick Sheep
Date: Fri, 2 Dec 1994 12:29:59
Organization: , Massey University, Palmerston North
Lines: 15
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <A.S.Chamove.50.2EDE5C77@massey.ac.nz>
References: <3blbej$3ei@seymour.sfu.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ps-pc35.massey.ac.nz
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev Final Beta #8]


>       Herdwick sheep have to be among the most attractive looking
>sheep,  which could well be the worst reason to choose them,  but
>they really do look absolutely splendid.   They come from the Lake
>District in England and I wondered if anyone breeds them or knows
>of someone who does?
>Hugh Preddy                                                                     
>


So what do they look like?
Arnold Chamove
Massey University Psychology Dept
Palmerston North, New Zealand
A.Chamove@Massey.ac.NZ


From d.richardson@MAIL.UTEXAS.EDU Wed Nov  2 21:25:50 EST 1994
Article: 4286 of alt.sustainable.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!oit-mail2news-gateway
From: d.richardson@MAIL.UTEXAS.EDU (Dick Richardson)
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Subject: Re: hogs in composting
Date: 2 Nov 1994 17:36:41 -0000
Organization: sustag-public mailing list
Lines: 27
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Joel, you asked about

>Specifically, I am now looking for information concerning the use of hogs in
>composting systems. I would appreciate any information concerning
>alternative integrations of animals into ag. systems.

Have you made contact with Joel Salatin near Staunton, Virginia?  He's not
on the Internet, but has written a series of six articles in the The
Stockman Grassfarmer, beginning in September 1993.  Their phone is
601-981-4805.  In addition, Joel Salatin's address can be obtained from The
Stockman Grassfarmer.

In a nutshell, he's had the hogs doing essentially all the work turning the
compost while they grew and got fat.  He's got a win-win combination,
unless you ask the pig in the end.  He also uses chickens in portable pens
for pasture maintenance, and has people traveling over 100 miles to buy
meat and produce from him at the farm.



=========================================================================
R. H. (Dick) Richardson               *    (512) 471-4128  (w)
Zoology Department                    *    (512) 471-9651  (FAX)
University of Texas                   *    (512) 476-5131  (h)
Austin, TX  78712                     *    d.richardson@mail.utexas.edu




From jbgFC@hamp.hampshire.edu Wed Nov  2 21:29:12 EST 1994
Article: 4285 of alt.sustainable.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!oit-mail2news-gateway
From: jbgFC@hamp.hampshire.edu (Joel B Gruver)
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Subject: (none)
Date: 2 Nov 1994 14:14:35 -0000
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I am investigating alternative uses of 
animals in agricultural systems. For example, weeder geese, grazing 
management of covercrops, fly control...
Specifically, I am now looking for information concerning the use of hogs in 
composting systems. I would appreciate any information concerning 
alternative integrations of animals into ag. systems.
Joel Gruver (413) 582-5348
jgruver@hamp.hampshire.edu


From jnmeade@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu Wed Nov  2 21:29:39 EST 1994
Article: 4299 of alt.sustainable.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!oit-mail2news-gateway
From: jnmeade@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu (James Meade)
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Subject: Re: your mail
Date: 3 Nov 1994 01:54:13 -0000
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Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

Joel,

Joel Salatin has some good ideas on using hogs in composting systems.  
Are you familiar with his work?

He feeds his cattle at a hay bunker, and buries some grain in the 
bedding.  When the bedding is several feet thick, he turns in hogs who 
root and turn the bedding thoroughly to get at the grain.

You received a reference to Salatin in another post, so I won't repeat 
his address here.

Good luck.


Jim - Farmer - Iowa City, IA, 
jnmeade@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu




Article 5028 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
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From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
Subject: Lambing FAQ (draft)
Message-ID: <1993Apr13.212813.23527@mlfarm.com>
Lines: 320
Sender: news@rosie.mlfarm.com
Organization: Maple Lawn Farm, Stonington, CT
Distribution: misc
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 21:28:13 GMT

This is a first try.  I'd welcome comments, suggestions, additions,
and corrections.



		Frequently Asked Questions About Lambing
			version 1.0 - 13 April 1993


1.  What equipment and supplies do I need for lambing?

If everything goes right, and it does most of the time, you need
nothing more than:

   - a pair of surgical scissors, available from a drug store or
     vet supply;

   - a wide-mouthed bottle of 7% iodine solution;

   - a clean, dry, bedded pen for the ewe and her lamb(s).  The
     dimensions can range from 4x4 feet for smaller breeds to 5x5 feet
     for larger breeds, with a water bucket and a hay feeder for each
     pen.  For a small flock, plan on one pen for every five ewes; a
     larger flock can get by with one pen for every seven ewes.

It's a good idea to have the following available, just in case:

   - a baby bottle (4 or 8 oz.); use a heated needle to expand the
     hole in the nipple;

   - a tube feeder; vet supply houses sell them, or you can buy a
     rubber catheter and large syringe from a drug store;

   - a hair-dryer and/or a heat lamb;

   - 60cc. syringes, 20ga. needles, and a solution of electrolytes
     with 5-10% glucose;

   - shoulder-length plastic examining gloves;

   - a rubber or plastic bowl and Ivory liquid soap or an
     obstetric/vaginal lubricant;

   - Penicillin & syringes, or antibiotic vaginal boluses;

   - frozen colostrum from an earlier birth, or from a goat or cow;

   - warm, dry towels.


2.  How do I know when a ewe is ready to lamb?

No two ewes manifest the same signs.  Some wander off to a far corner
of a pasture, or find a corner of the barn.  Some will go off food.
Most will `drop' as the position of the uterus shifts lower in their
bodies, and hollow areas appear in their flanks; this is sometimes
hard to see in older ewes, who are `dropped' most of the time.  Ewes
usually `bag out' as milk develops in the udder within a day or two of
lambing.  As the ewe goes into labor, she may paw the ground as if
digging a nest, and is often restless, getting up, circling or moving
to a new spot, lying down, and repeating the cycle.  As she moves
further into labor, you can see contractions, the water (amnion) will
often break, and she may grit her teeth in pain.


3.  What do I have to do for a `normal' birth?

Most ewes can handle things pretty well.  Within four hours of the
onset of labor, the ewe will deliver a lamb and set to cleaning and
mothering it.  The vigorous licking is important stimulation to the
lamb, and helps trigger hormones that accelerate the development of
milk, contractions for twins or triplets, and the afterbirth.  If
you're there when the lamb is born -- and you should try to be --
clear any mucus from the lamb's nose and make sure it is breathing.
If it isn't, tickle the nostrils with a piece of straw.  If that
doesn't work, grab the lamb by both back legs and gently swing it in a
vertical circle over your head; the up and down movement of the
diaphragm as the lamb swings is an efficient artificial respiration.
Some shepherds use oxygen or even mouth-to-nose respiration to start a
lamb. c but most need little help beyond a tickle with straw.  Then,
allow the mother a few minutes to mother her lamb, before you CLIP,
DIP, and STRIP.

  - CLIP the lamb's umbilical cord within an inch of the lamb's navel.
  - DIP the umbilical cord in the iodine solution, making sure it it
    thoroughly covered with iodine.  
  - STRIP the ewe's teats, to make sure the wax plug is gone from both
    and milk (actually colostrom) comes out.

You may want to weigh the lamb, and on a very cold night, a hair-dryer
on the lamb's ears, or a heat lamp, can help.  Be careful with heat
lamps: they are dangerous, and too much time under the heat lamp can
encourage pneumonia.  It's not a good idea to dry the lamb too much;
letting the ewe do the work stimulates the lamb and encourages bonding
between them.

When the ewe is finished lambing, which can take a while for twins or
triplets, gently drag the lambs into the lambing pen.  The ewe will
follow the trail of smells in the bedding.  She will want a bucket of
water (warm if possible, adding a few tablespoons of molasses will
encourage her to drink) and a nice tab of hay.  She won't need grain
for a day or two, but should have free choice hay and plenty of water.
When you spot the afterbirth, usually from an hour to eight hours
after birth, remove it.


4.  How do I know if the ewe is going to have twins or triplets?

Sometimes you can tell in advance from the size of the ewe.  If
another lamb is coming, the ewe may get restless again, walking away
from her lamb, or lying down with contractions.  The second (or third)
amnion may break with another flood of fluid.  If a bag of reddish
fluid and a white wormlike tissue appears, it probably means she is
NOT going to have any more lambs that year.  Sometimes the only way to
be sure whether there is another lamb is to physically examine the ewe
with a glove and lubricant.  Unless something seems to be awry, it's
best not to interfere.


5.  What do I do if the ewe rejects her lamb?

Some rookie mothers don't know what to do; they drop a lamb and walk
away as if they had just pooped.  Putting the lamb in front of their
noses, or putting them into a pen with the lamb is usually enough.
You may have to help the lamb nurse the first time.  It usually works
better to nudge the lamb from behind, the way a ewe does, than to drag
it to a teat.  Tickling the lamb's bottom when it has the teat in its
mouth is usually enough to get it sucking.  A wagging tail on the
lamb, or the belly going in and out, is a sure sign the lamb is
getting milk (colostrum).

Some mothers will reject a lamb, often one of twins or triplets.  If
you hold the ewe so the lamb can nurse, either manually or by putting
her in a stanchion, after several days the ewe will usually begin to
accept the lamb.  The key for the ewe is the smell of the back end of
the lamb; after a few days, the ewe will detect her own milk.  Another
trick is to bring a dog into the barn.  Often, the instinct to protect
the lamb from the dog is strong enough to reestablish the bond of ewe
and lamb.  If the mother bashes the lamb as well as not allowing it to
nurse, you may have to take it away and bottle feed it.

Grafting a lamb to another mother, because the first mother lacks milk
or has too many lambs, is tricky.  There are many techniques: bathing
the graftee in amniotic fluids from the new mother, stanchions, tying
the feet of an older lamb so it won't seem too active.  It takes
patience and luck.  Ewes are smart, and even if they initially allow
the lamb to nurse, they often figure out that it isn't their lamb and
reject it.


6.  What if the lamb can't or won't nurse?

Make sure the ewe has colostrum by milking each teat.  If the ewe
wasn't shorn before lambing, or crutched, you may need to use hand
shears to clear some of the dung locks away so the lambs can find the
teats.  Lambs aren't the brightest little creatures, and will often
suck away on a tag of wet fleece instead of the teat.

The lamb may be too small, too cold, or too weak to nurse.  Put your
finger in the lamb's mouth to see if it is strong enough to suck.  If
it is, milk 2-4 ounces of colostrum from the mother into a baby
bottle.  Then, using a nipple that has had the hole widened with a hot
needle, feed the lamb two ounces at a time.  One or two feedings of
colostrum may be enough to jump start the lamb.

If the lamb is too weak to suck on your finger, tube feed two ounces
of colostrum.  You can buy ready-made tube feeders from vet supply
houses, or make your own from a surgical catheter and a large syringe.
Lubricate the tube with oil or warm water, measure how much tube it
takes to reach the lamb's rumen, and slide it down gently.  Stop
frequently and hold a wet finger over the other end of the tube; if
you feel air coming out, you're in the trachaea or lungs; pull out and
start again.

A really weak lamb may be dehydrated.  You can inject 30-50 ml. of
5-10% dextrose solution subcutaneously, in three or four spots (10 ml.
each) along the back and sides to rehydrate the lamb.

Whatever procedure or combination of procedures you follow, the lamb
should get only colostrum for the first eight to twelve hours.  If the
mother doesn't have any, use frozen colostrum saved from a ewe with a
single lamb, or colostrum from goats or cows.  


7.  How can I tell if a birth isn't going right?

If a ewe has been in labor for four hours without dilating enough to
deliver a lamb, if the lamb appears in an unbroken amnion, or if you
see indications of a presentation other than the normal two front feet
and the nose of the lamb together, the ewe may need help.

If the cervix of the ewe remains tight after prolonged labor, careful
manual massage may help, or she may need an injection of Oxytocsin to
induce contractions and to relax the cervix.

If a lamb appears in an unbroken amnion, use a fingernail to gently
break the the sack AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE.  The danger is that the
lamb will take a breath inside the sack and drown.

If the presentation of the lamb is wrong, you will need to help.  Make
sure your fingernails are cut short, put on one or two long obstetric
examining gloves, and lubricate your gloved hand and arm in warm water
with dissolved Ivory soap, or with an obstetric lubricant.  The ewe
should be on her back or her side, with an assistant holding her back
legs.  Even ewes who are normally shy are often cooperative when
you're helping them with lambing, but you want to hold her still.
Ease up when she has a contraction, so you aren't fighting her; the
contractions are strong enough to clamp hard on your arm.  You will be
working by feel, so try to imagine what is connected with what as you
_gently_ work your fingers up the vaginal canal.

Some situations are relatively easy.  If one leg and the head present,
you can usually turn the lamb slightly and ease one shoulder out.  If
the lamb is in breech position (fanny first), hurry it out so it
doesn't drown in amniotic fluids when the cord breaks.  If the
presentation is head first without the front legs, gently push the
head back in and sort out the hooves so they come out the canal with
the head.  Sometimes twins are tangled.  Gently and sort out the twin
closest to the cervix into a proper presentation.  It's a good idea
for a person with a relatively small hand to do the job.  Above all,
be _gentle_.  Some presentations, like a transverse lamb at the
cervix, are jobs for an experienced vet.

If you have intervened, even with a sterile glove, you probably want
to give the ewe either a uterine antibiotic bolus or an injection of
Penicillin afterwards.


8.  What medications do the ewe and lamb need after birth?

Ewes are susceptible to worms after lambing, and should be given a
dose of wormer the next day.  If you had to intervene to assist the
birth, the ewe may need an antibiotic series.  If the afterbirth isn't
expelled within twelve hours, you may want to give the ewe an injection
of Oxytocsin.

Local conditions will determine what, if any, medication the lambs
need.  If you didn't dip the navel in iodine immediately after birth,
you may want to give the lambs a precautionary injection of
Penicillin.  If your pastures and feed are selenium-deficient, and
you've had lambs develop white-muscle disease, you may want to inject
lambs with BOSE (Selenium & vitamin E supplement).  If you've had
pneumonia problems with lambs, you may want to administer PI-3, a
nasal vaccine approved for cows, at birth.  If the ewes weren't
vaccinated with CD/T before lambing, you should vaccinate the lambs
early; otherwise, wait until the lambs are at least a month old before
their first vaccination with CD/T.  The tetanus part of CD/T may only
be necessary if you have equines on your farm or other indications of
tetanus.

A few days after birth, and before the lambs are out of the lambing
pens, you will want to do the tails, ear tags or tatoos, and possibly
castrate ram lambs that are not going to be bred.


9.  How long should the lambs and mothers stay in the lambing pens?

A veteran with a strong single lamb could come out after twenty-four
hours.  Rookies, and ewes with multiple lambs, should stay in for two
or three days, until the ewes have thoroughly bonded with their lambs.
Sometimes, if you let them out early, the lambs can get lost, or ewes
can forget their lambs in the rush for feeders.  You might have to put
them back for another day or two.

After the ewe and lambs leave the pen, clean it out as much as
possible, lime thoroughly with hydrated lime, and rebed with fresh
straw before the next tenants move in.


10.  What do I do with orphans?

Lambs without mothers, or whose mothers don't have enough milk for
them, can be raised on milk-replacer.  For the first twelve hours, the
lambs should have only colostrum.  Then, one option is to put them in
a pen with free-choice cold milk-replacer from a bucket with nipples.
The other choice is to feed warm milk-replacer from a bottle, which
will allow the lamb to stay with its mother, who may have some milk.
The lamb may learn to sneak milk from other mothers too.  For the
first few days, the lamb shouldn't get more than four ounces per
feeding, six times a day.  You can then gradually increase the amount
and decrease the number of feedings per day.  After two weeks, two or
three bottles a day is plenty.  Baby bottles work best for little
lambs.  Later, beer or soda bottles with lamb nipples are fine.  More
than 12-16 ounces in a feeding is likely to induce scours.  Unless you
like chasing lambs all hours of the night with a bottle, encourage
bottle babies to eat grain and leafy alfalfa in the creep as young as
possible, so you can wean them early.

Some lambs need a little help but not a complete bottle regimen.  The
runt of triplets, or even of twins, may need a bottle or two a day to
keep up.  You can usually see when one lamb isn't getting a fair
share; hungry lambs are often hunched up, they cry; if they're really
hungry, their mouths will be cold.  Sometimes a bottle or two will get
them going again, or they may need a bottle or two a day.


11.  What care do lactating ewes need?

A good ewe pours so much of the nutrition she consumes into milk that
it is difficult for her to maintain her weight.  You want to give her
energy-rich grain, a pound a day for ewes with singles, as much as two
pounds per day for ewes with twins and triplets, the highest protein
hay you have, such as good leafy alfalfa or early-cut timothy, and
plenty of clean fresh water.  If you're lambing in late spring, the
ewes may do fine on fresh pasture.  You should also check the udders
of the ewes daily, watching for signs of mastitis.  A hot red bag, or
a cold blue bag, are bad signs.  If you detect mastitis, treat as soon
as possible with antibiotics, both systemic and applied directly by
teat infusion.  It may help to milk out a bad teat.


12.  Why do ewes need help lambing?  Wild animals do it without help.

Sheep aren't wild animals anymore.  The sheep we raise have been bred
to produce multiple-births and big, fast-growing lambs.  Most of the
time, they can give birth without help, and do a marvelous job of
taking care of their lambs.  When the lambs are too big, or if there
are more lambs than the mother's milk can support, we help out.  In
return, we get the pleasure of watching the miracle of birth and one
of the strongest and loveliest bonds in nature.
-- 

				Ronald Florence
				ron@mlfarm.com


 G   .     i   ..   G  C&SSJ    G   organic-beef-raising     G   Factory.Hog.Resources    G $ Draft.Animals-USDA.bulletin  Gt %ALBC.A.Conservation.Breeding.Handbook                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       From nwaltham@olgau.demon.co.uk Thu Oct 20 12:06:15 EDT 1994
Article: 231 of bionet.biology.tropical
Newsgroups: bionet.biology.tropical
From: nwaltham@olgau.demon.co.uk (Nicholas Waltham)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!demon!olgau.demon.co.uk!nwaltham
Subject: Sustainable Developement Journal on line
Organization: Myorganisation
Reply-To: nwaltham@olgau.demon.co.uk
X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.29
Lines: 10
Date: Wed, 19 Oct 1994 19:29:51 +0000
Message-ID: <782594991snz@olgau.demon.co.uk>
Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk

The english language electronic journal 'Livestock Research for Rural
Developement' public by CIPAV, Cali, Colombia which covers a wide range
of Sustainable Developement topics is available on the IFS/OFI Web Server.
The url for the web server is http://ifs.plants.ox.ac.uk and LRRD can be
found on the CIPAV contents page.



-- 
Nicholas Waltham


From jhenning@ca.uky.edu Fri Apr  8 11:43:08 1994
Date: Tue 5 Apr 94 9:27:19:68
From: Jimmy Carrol Henning <jhenning@ca.uky.edu>
To: forage-mg@oes.orst.edu
Subject: vitamin/minerals in fescue

TO: Forage Electronic Mail Group
From: Jimmy Henning, University of Kentucky
Re: Vitamin/mineral content of fescue

Dr. Larry Watson, Livestock Management Services
Box 351, Sycamore, IL 60178 would like information
on the the Vitamin A,D,E and trace mineral content
of tall fescue pasture and hay, especially the
vitamin content.

You may contact him directly by mail
or phone 815 756 5100
or fax 815 756 6310

or you can send the data to me and I will forward it.

Jimmy Henning
UK Agronomy
N-122 ASC-N
Lexington, KY 40546-0091
606 257 3144/fax 323-1952
---
Jimmy C Henning
UK Agronomy
Ph 606 257 3144
Fx 606 323 1952
jhenning@ca.uky.edu
Article 8240 of misc.rural:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!hp81.prod.aol.net!search01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: camelid@aol.com (Camelid)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Llama Faq 1
Date: 26 Mar 1994 02:48:02 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 65
Sender: news@search01.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <2n0pbi$dni@search01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: search01.news.aol.com

                            LLAMA FACT SHEET

Background Basics
 
  Llamas are members of the camel (camelid) family.  Camelids originated 
  on the central plains of North America where they lived 40 million 
  years ago.  Three million years ago llama-like animals dispersed to 
  South America.  By the end of the last ice age (10,000-12,000 years 
  ago) camelids were extinct in North America.  Llamas were domesticated 
  from guanacos in the Andean highlands of Peru 4,000-5,000 years ago 
  and are among the oldest domestic animals in the world.  Primarily a 
  beast of burden, they provided native herdsmen with meat, wool for 
  clothing, hide for shelter, pellets for fuel and offerings to their 
  gods.  Today there are an estimated 50,000 llamas in the United 
  States and Canada.

Physical Facts

Life span:          About 20 years
Average height:     45" at shoulder, 5-6' at the head
Average weight:     250-400 lbs.
Average gestation:  350 days

Birth:  A single baby (cria) is normally born, without assistance, 
        from a standing mother during daylight hours.  Twinning is rare.

Babies:  Average birth weight is 18-35 lbs.  Babies are normally up and 
         nursing within 90 minutes.  They are weaned at about 5-6 months.

Reproduction:  Females are first bred at 14-18 months of age.  Llamas do 
               not have a heat cycle but are induced ovulators (ovulation 
               occurs 24-36 hours after breeding).  Thus they can be bred 
               at any time of the year. 
 
Color:  Wool ranges from white to black, with shades of gray, beige, 
        brown, red and roan between.  It may be solid, spotted or marked 
        in an array of patterns.

Health:  Because llamas and their ancestors are specially suited to the 
         harsh environment of their Andean homeland, North American 
         owners will find them remarkably hardy, healthy, easy to care 
         for and virtually disease-free.
   Llamas are environmentally sensitive, intelligent creatures.  Their feet, 
comprised of soft pads with 2 toenails, impact the environment less than 
the boots of an average hiker, yet llamas are strong.  A conditioned 
llama can carry approximately 25% to 30% of its body weight, making a 
llama as strong, if not stronger, than a horse.
   Llamas are great working partners and family pets.  They have predictable, 
calm responses to new situations.  Llamas are trustworthy.  Their 
intelligent, gentle nature allows even small children to interact with 
them.  The fiber of llamas can be spun and woven into sweaters, blankets, 
hats and the like.  Llamas are used in animal facilitative therapy because 
of their calming effects.  Families can get involved with llamas in 4-H, 
Scouts and other youth groups.
   Llamas make excellent guardian animals for sheep herds. They have similar
dietary requirements and will defend the herd from many types of predatory
animals.
   Llamas have discrete bathroom habits.  Their pelleted droppings, similar 
to a deer, are virtually odorless and are generally deposited in the 
communal dung pile.  This neatness minimizes parasite contamination, 
reduces fly problems and makes cleanup easier for the owner.  A llama's 
effective digestive system also helps to eliminate introduction of 
noxious weeds into the environment. These pellets also make a superb
fertilizer for home and garden.



Article 8248 of misc.rural:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!hp81.prod.aol.net!search01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: camelid@aol.com (Camelid)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Llama faq2 Periodicals
Date: 27 Mar 1994 00:39:04 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 61
Sender: news@search01.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <2n365o$qgb@search01.news.aol.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: search01.news.aol.com

Lotta stuff here tell me if you are intersested!

Llamas Magazine
P.O. Box 100
Herald, CA 95638
Subscription: $25.00 for 8 issues/year; $30.00 in Canada; $35 Other Foreign
$45.00 for 16 issues (2 years); $55 in Canada; $65 Other Foreign


Llama Life
2259 County Road 220
Durango, CO  81301-8019
Subscription: $16.00 for 4 issues/year; $26.00 in Canada; $40 Other Foreign

The Llama Link
Drawer 1995
Kalispell, MT  59903-1995
Voluntary Subscription: $12.00 for 12 issues; 
Canada - paid subscription only $24.00 for 12 issues

Backcountry Llama News
2857 Rose Valley Loop
Kelso, WA 98626
$10/year $18/2 years   Canada $12/yr  Foreign  $18yr

Llama Banner
Box 1968
Manhattan, KS  66502
$24/year  (Canada & Mexico add $6/yr)Llama Periodicals:

Llamas Magazine
P.O. Box 100
Herald, CA 95638
Subscription: $25.00 for 8 issues/year; $30.00 in Canada; $35 Other Foreign
$45.00 for 16 issues (2 years); $55 in Canada; $65 Other Foreign

Llama Life
2259 County Road 220
Durango, CO  81301-8019
Subscription: $16.00 for 4 issues/year; $26.00 in Canada; $40 Other Foreign

The Llama Link
Drawer 1995
Kalispell, MT  59903-1995
Voluntary Subscription: $12.00 for 12 issues; 
Canada - paid subscription only $24.00 for 12 issues

Backcountry Llama News
2857 Rose Valley Loop
Kelso, WA 98626
$10/year $18/2 years   Canada $12/yr  Foreign  $18yr

Llama Banner
Box 1968
Manhattan, KS  66502
$24/year  (Canada & Mexico add $6/yr)

Camelids!
An Online electronic journal
To Subscribe Contact: camalid@aol.com



 e   .     i   ..   e , #domestic-bird.DOM_BIRD.mailing-list  e   DOM_BIRD.mailing-list    e  goats.mailing-lists  e $foreign.livestock.diseases.www-pages                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    From 75032.3011@compuserve.comTue Oct  3 02:20:24 1995
Date: 29 Sep 95 11:54:16 EDT
From: Steven H Muntz <75032.3011@compuserve.com>
To: sanet-mg@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: On-Farm Processing of Poultry

Hello,

I have been trying to get a better understanding of the law relating to on-farm
processing of small numbers of poultry.  I recently got a copy of Public Law
90-492 that supposedly permits on-farm processing without federal inspection,
for up to 1,000 birds.  Unfortunately, this law is pretty difficult to translate
without a lawyer.  Has anyone written a short synopsis of what the laws really
allow or disallow?  I would sure love a copy.  I also need to know more about
where state laws fit in, and how to know which laws take precedence.

In discussion with State and Federal officials in my own state of Kentucky, I
have been told that it is illegal to sell any poultry that has not been
federally inspected.  That would be okay if there was a federally inspected
plant in the state that would take small numbers of birds from independant
growers, but that is not the case.  What is the recoures for the small farmer
who wants to raise specialty chickens for the community?

I would appreciate any response from anyone who has experience in this area.
E-Mail is fine, or you can contact me at:

Steve Muntz
Heifer Project International
3301 Spencer Pike
Mt. Sterling, KY 40353
606-497-0603 
From sap7@cornell.eduMon Nov  7 22:11:24 1994
Date: Mon, 7 Nov 1994 12:56:15 -0500
From: Sara Prout <sap7@cornell.edu>
To: Larry London <london@sunsite.unc.edu>
Subject: Re: QUESTION: Organic Beef (fwd)

You should contact the Northeast Organic (NOFA) Farming Association  They
certify organic beef (607)648-5557.


>------- start of forwarded message -------
>From: swkitt@gate.net
>Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
>Subject: Organic Beef
>Date: 28 Oct 1994 18:58:49 GMT
>Lines: 2
>
>Anyone have any info on organic beef and poultry. Please let me know. Thanks
>
>------- end of forwarded message -------

Sara Prout
Farming Alternatives Program
Cornell University
Ithaca, NY 14853
ph.(607)255-9832
fx.(607)255-9984
email:sap7@cornell.edu


From STEVENSON@ae.agecon.wisc.eduMon Oct 31 10:12:33 1994
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 1994 08:58:58 GMT -0600
From: Steve /CIAS <STEVENSON@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
To: Larry London <london@sunsite.unc.edu>
Subject: Re: QUESTION: Organic Beef (fwd)

Larry,
     The New Farm magazine has run several articles during the 
past few years on folks direct marketing organic beef and 
poultry.  Their phone number is 215-967-8405.  A person you may 
waant to contact here in Wisconsin is Dick Cates (608-588-2836). 
 Dick runs a mid-sized stocker operation and direct markets a 
smaller number of organic, grass-fed animals to folks in the 
Madison area. 






Date:          Sat, 29 Oct 1994 15:58:58 -0400
From:          Larry London <london@sunsite.unc.edu>
To:            sanet-mg@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject:       QUESTION: Organic Beef (fwd)
Organization:  SunSITE, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill

------- start of forwarded message -------
From: swkitt@gate.net
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
Subject: Organic Beef
Date: 28 Oct 1994 18:58:49 GMT
Lines: 2

Anyone have any info on organic beef and poultry. Please let me know. Thanks

------- end of forwarded message -------

Steve
G. W. Stevenson
From jbgFC@hamp.hampshire.eduSun Oct 30 22:58:31 1994
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 11:18:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Joel B Gruver <jbgFC@hamp.hampshire.edu>
To: london@sunsite.unc.edu
Subject: organic beef and poultry

Dear Sir:
     In response to your request for information about organic beef and 
poultry, I suggest that you locate the following resources:

New Farm magazine May/June 94' "Get Ready For Organic Beef" 
- This is a comprehensive look at organic beef. It discusses animal 
husbandry, marketing , regulation etc...

ATTRA (Appropriate Technology Transfer for Rural Areas) 
- This organization will respond to all questions and will also send out 
free pre-prepared info packets. The info-packet titled "Sustainable Beef 
Production" is 20+ pages and is very good.
 1-800-346-9140

Stockman Grass Farmer is the journal to subscribe to if you are 
interested in rotational grazing. (Rotational grazing is the most cost 
effect and ecological way to raise all ruminant animals.)
1-800-748-9808

Pastured Poultry Profits is a very comprehensive book describing Joel 
Salatin's method of raising organic poultry. He uses portable cages which 
are moved daily. His book can be ordered from the following address:
Joel Salatin
Polyface, INC.
Route 1, Box 281
Swoope, VA 24479

I hope this info is useful. Feel free to contact me.
                                   Joel Gruver
From Steve_N_BOGASH@umail.umd.eduMon Oct 31 10:08:51 1994
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 94 09:02 EST
From: sb158 <Steve_N_BOGASH@umail.umd.edu>
To: london@sunsite.unc.edu
Subject: reply to request for organic poultry information

To: Larry London
You may want to contact Joel Salatin @703-885-3590, Rt.1 Box 281, Swoope, VA
24479. I have seen his name attached to a lot of work on pastured poultry
and other sustainable poultry systems. While I have no direct information on
organic beef, one of my cooperators sells certified organic beef. He has
been very active in getting the Maryland Organic Food & Farming Assco. off
the ground and could be a good source of information.
My phone # 301-432-4492
Steve Bogash
 V   .     i   ..   V ALBC                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            From hames@aol.comThu Apr  4 10:10:04 1996
Date: 3 Apr 1996 09:47:44 -0500
From: Hames <hames@aol.com>
To: sustag-public@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: oxen info?

Try getting a hold of Tillers, International in Kalamazoo, MI.  Also, Drew
Conroy at Univ.of New Hampshire- Durham has published several books and I
think a video.  You might also try a local farm history museum, or Small
Farmer's Journal as resources.  Good luck,  Pat
From lunaj@BCC.ORST.EDU Wed Aug 31 00:27:46 1994
Date: Tue, 30 Aug 94 14:13:14 PDT
From: lunaj@BCC.ORST.EDU
To: sanet-mg@ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Free Range Chickens

One exempary operation involving a system of movable cage "free range"
chickens is that of Joel Salatin in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia. 
These birds are contained in open-bottomed cages which are moved daily
across pasture fields.  The birds are sold in advance to subscription
customers, killed and cleaned in an on-farm facility, and picked up on the
day of slaughter by the customer. The quality of the meat from birds who
have lived outdoors, eaten fresh forage daily and had the opportunity to
have sunshine, fresh air, and exercise is phenomenal.  It is not comparable
to factory-raised meat at all. 

Joel has produced a manual entitled "Pastured Poultry Manual" is available
for $15.  This manual describes the process as well as the enterprise
budgets.  He has also developed a video on his technique.  Contact Joel
Salatin 703 885-3590, Rt. 1 Box 281 Swoope, VA 24479. 
John M. Luna
Department of Horticulture
4143 Agriculture & Life Sciences Bldg.
Oregon State University
Corvallis, OR 97331  
503-737-5430   FAX  503 737-3479
E-mail LUNAJ@bcc.orst.edu

 ]  .     i   ..   ] "keeping-qualities-of-unwashed-eggs                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Article 617 of alt.agriculture.misc:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!pacs.sunbelt.net!vader.york.tec.sc.us!wtraylor
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
Subject: Chicken Hatcheries List
Message-ID: <1994Feb28.082626.1@vader.york.tec.sc.us>
From: wtraylor@vader.york.tec.sc.us
Date: 28 Feb 94 08:26:26 -0500
Organization: York Technical College
Nntp-Posting-Host: default-gateway
Lines: 96

			Poultry Hatcheries
Stromberg's				Marti Poultry Farm
Pine River 41C, MN 56474		Box 27-5
                                        Windsor, MO 65360

Inman Hatcheries			Hoffman Hatchery
PO Box 616				Gratz, PA 17030
Aberdeen, SD 57402-0616
1-800-843-1962

Oakwood Game Farm			MacFarlane Pheasant Farm, Inc.
PO Box 274				2821A Center Avenue
Princeton, MN 55371			Janesville, WI 53546
1-800-328-6647				1-800-345-8348

Wild Wings				Clearview Hatchery
Dept. SF				Box 399
9491 152nd St. North			Gratz, PA 17030
Hugo, MN 55038

Hoover's Hatchery			Rouse Game Farm
1-800-247-7014				RR #4
					Moravia, NY 13118

Mother Goose Hatchery			Atlas Chicks
1-800-A1 GOOSE				2651 Chouteau
					St. Louis, MO 63103

Sunny Creek Hatchery			The Country Boy
Red Lake Falls, MN 56750		3428 Beret Lane
					Dept. F&S
					Wheaton, MD 20906

Wildlife Nurseries, Inc.		Cross Keys Pheasantry
PO Box 2724-F				PO Box 594
Oshkosh, WI 54903			Dept FS.
					Hollidaysburg, PA 16648

Crow Poultry				Comstock
Box 106-10                              Beaumont, TX 77708
Windsor, MO 65360

Grain Belt Hatchery			Horan's
Box 125-AA				Box 417-0
Windsor, MO 65360			Tamaqua, PA 18252

Oakridge Outdoors			Meadowbrook Game Birds
Maysville, AR 72747			Richfield, PA 17086

Clinton Chicks				Reed's Hatchery
Box 548-FS				208 College
Clinton, MO 64735			Alva, OK 73717

Ridgway Hatcheries			Blue Ribbon Chickens
Box 306					Box 850830
LaRue 18, Ohio 43332			Yukon, OK 73085
1-800-323-3825

Bedwell Farms				Glacier Springs
1500 Hunsaker Rd.			190A Becumier Lane
Boonville , Indiana 47601		Sobieski, WI 54171

Texas Longnecks				Chick Master Incubator Co.
PO Box 156				945 Lafayette Rd.
McKinney, TX 75069			Medina, Ohio 44256-3510

Poultry Products of Maine		Poultry Specialties, Inc.
433 Bemis Rd.				517 East 5th St.
Hookett, NH 03106-0000			Russellville, AR 72801-0000

National Poultry News			Fett
Dept. UIPD				RR 1ME24
Box 1647				Minden, IA 51553
Easley, SC 29641

PHR Hatchery				Conn Hatchery
Box 428					Rt. 3 2005 Penoak
Squires, MO 65755			Roswell, MN 88201

Hall Brothers Hatchery			Holderread's Waterfowl Farm
PO Box 1026-ME				PO Box 492
Norwich, CT 06360			Corvallis, OR 97399


This is not a complete list, so I will be posting more later.  I have
received catalogs and price lists from a majority of these, but some
of them I haven't written to, so I don't if they still exist.  Anyway,
I'll try to get the other ones on later this week, and if anyone has 
an address to add, post it where I may see it also.

Happy Hatching,
Ernie Traylor
wtraylor@york.tec.sc.us





Subject: Guniea Hens against ticks & fleas
Date: Tue, 19 May 92 20:00:25 GMT

Guinea hens, free-ranging, eat lots of fleas and ticks.

Raising them is neither hard nor expensive.  They cost $2 per/chick
in my area (NE). Initially they must be kept in a wire cage inside,
with a light bulb burning (this is when they're newly-hatched).  At
this point they eat a mash(check with your local feed barn).  In a
few weeks (they're fast growers) they need a bigger cage.  After
3-4 months, they are ready to be released, but don't release all of
them at once.  They have a nasty, ungrateful habit of simply making
fast feet to parts unknown and you never see them again.

To prevent this, release only 2 of them at first.  They like to
flock and will hang around waiting for the rest of their flock to
join them.  After a week, let out another one; after 4 days,
release another and so on.  The idea is that by the time the entire
flock is released(usually folks buy 9-12 of them) they're used to
the area and stay there.

Foxes and raccoons do eat them, so stock replenishment is usually
required from time to time.  Some seem to be smaarter than others
and survive our foxes, raccoons, and coyotes.  Guinea hens roost in
trees at night so that keeps them safe at the worst predator times.

My cats are terrorized by them and leave them alone.  I'm not sure
about dogs.

They're awfully funny.  They sound like someone breaking a bunch of
dishes when they cackle.  They run real fast and altogether
resemble something a cartoonist would have created.

Good Luck
Kathy

Subject: ticks
Date: 18 May 92 18:10:17 GMT

Guinea hens!!!  They eat ticks and fleas--they eat a whole lot of
them.  I never believed this until I moved to a 32 acre farm with
guinea hens(the farm has had them for the last 10 years).  The farm
has NOT had fleas or ticks for the last 10 years.  This is
remarkable because other places in the area (where I lived) had
many fleas and , dangerously enough, deer ticks. They're pretty
cheap to buy around here--2 bucks a chick.

Kathy

Subject: Turkey Genetic Conservation
Date: 5 Dec 91 17:19:01 GMT

(Holiday repost on Turkey genetic conservation)

The author of the article below, David Sullenberger, is a professor of
biology at New Mexico State University. He is an AMBC member, and keeps
a flock of Wishard Bronze turkeys. For a copy of the entire article plus
the bibliography, send a 45-cent SASE to AMBC, Box 477, Pittsboro, NC 27312.

In the not too distant past turkey was strictly holiday fare. Supply was
seasonal and nearly always lagging demand, which made turkey too expensive
for everyday meals. Intense management, close confinement, balanced
rations, sub-therapeutic medication, growth hormones, selective breeding
and artificial insemination (AI) have changed all that.

The use of AI has been critical, because over the past 25 years breeders
have been busy putting more meat on the birds - especially breast meat -
and those large, meaty breasts very effectively prevent the toms from
mating.

There is, however, at least one breed of domestic turkey that can procreate
without aid from man. The "unimproved" breed is the Wishard strain of
naturally mating Bronze turkeys. Wishard naturally mating bronze turkeys
are vigorous, flight-capable, intelligent, good-looking, weather-tolerant
and disease resistant. They got that way by virture of nearly 50 years of
what for all practical purposes amounts to natural selection - Wishard
turkeys have never been pampered.

"They either made it or they didn't. They flew to avoid coyotes, hid to
avoid hawks, foraged for a lot of their diet ant if they got sick they lived
or died on their own." Wishard hatched eggs from his own hens, raised the
poults to 8 weeks on wire, then turned them out to pasture to fend for
themselves until harvest. The ranging birds were provided with minimal
care in simple facilities consisting of pastures enclosed by woven wire
fence, elementary shelters and roots, feeding and watering stations
which were moved a few yards each week to minimize ground contamination,
and rotation to new pasture as appropriate. Breeding stock were those
birds held over at harvest time. No formal selective or pedigree breeding
was practiced and all mating was the responsibility of the toms - exclusively.

The Wishard strain of bronze turkeys represents an invaluable genetic
resourse of highly adapted, low-input, production meat birds. As we enter
the 1990's - a period in which our nation's agricultural productions
practices will be seriously questioned by chemically-conscious consumers,
environmentalists and politicians - there is comfort in knowing that at
least one low-input, self-propagating turkey breed is still around and
competing nicely.

If you are interested in beginning a flock of Wishard Bronze turkeys,
contact Wish Hatchery, Box 362, Prairie City, OR 97869, (503) 820-3509.

AMBC member Peter Jorgensen also has a flock of Wishard Bronze, and can
be reached at CS Fund Conservancy, 469 Bohemian Highway, Freestone,
CA 95472, (707) 874-2942.

Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.misc
Subject: Chicken Hatcheries List
Message-ID: <1994Feb28.082626.1@vader.york.tec.sc.us>
From: wtraylor@vader.york.tec.sc.us
Date: 28 Feb 94 08:26:26 -0500
Organization: York Technical College
Nntp-Posting-Host: default-gateway
Lines: 96

                        Poultry Hatcheries
Stromberg's                             Marti Poultry Farm
Pine River 41C, MN 56474                Box 27-5
                                        Windsor, MO 65360

Inman Hatcheries                        Hoffman Hatchery
PO Box 616                              Gratz, PA 17030
Aberdeen, SD 57402-0616
1-800-843-1962

Oakwood Game Farm                       MacFarlane Pheasant Farm, Inc.
PO Box 274                              2821A Center Avenue
Princeton, MN 55371                     Janesville, WI 53546
1-800-328-6647                          1-800-345-8348

Wild Wings                              Clearview Hatchery
Dept. SF                                Box 399
9491 152nd St. North                    Gratz, PA 17030
Hugo, MN 55038

Hoover's Hatchery                       Rouse Game Farm
1-800-247-7014                          RR #4
                                        Moravia, NY 13118

Mother Goose Hatchery                   Atlas Chicks
1-800-A1 GOOSE                          2651 Chouteau
                                        St. Louis, MO 63103

Sunny Creek Hatchery                    The Country Boy
Red Lake Falls, MN 56750                3428 Beret Lane
                                        Dept. F&S
                                        Wheaton, MD 20906

Wildlife Nurseries, Inc.                Cross Keys Pheasantry
PO Box 2724-F                           PO Box 594
Oshkosh, WI 54903                       Dept FS.
                                        Hollidaysburg, PA 16648

Crow Poultry                            Comstock
Box 106-10                              Beaumont, TX 77708
Windsor, MO 65360

Grain Belt Hatchery                     Horan's
Box 125-AA                              Box 417-0
Windsor, MO 65360                       Tamaqua, PA 18252

Oakridge Outdoors                       Meadowbrook Game Birds
Maysville, AR 72747                     Richfield, PA 17086

Clinton Chicks                          Reed's Hatchery
Box 548-FS                              208 College
Clinton, MO 64735                       Alva, OK 73717

Ridgway Hatcheries                      Blue Ribbon Chickens
Box 306                                 Box 850830
LaRue 18, Ohio 43332                    Yukon, OK 73085
1-800-323-3825

Bedwell Farms                           Glacier Springs
1500 Hunsaker Rd.                       190A Becumier Lane
Boonville , Indiana 47601               Sobieski, WI 54171

Texas Longnecks                         Chick Master Incubator Co.
PO Box 156                              945 Lafayette Rd.
McKinney, TX 75069                      Medina, Ohio 44256-3510

Poultry Products of Maine               Poultry Specialties, Inc.
433 Bemis Rd.                           517 East 5th St.
Hookett, NH 03106-0000                  Russellville, AR 72801-0000

National Poultry News                   Fett
Dept. UIPD                              RR 1ME24
Box 1647                                Minden, IA 51553
Easley, SC 29641

PHR Hatchery                            Conn Hatchery
Box 428                                 Rt. 3 2005 Penoak
Squires, MO 65755                       Roswell, MN 88201

Hall Brothers Hatchery                  Holderread's Waterfowl Farm
PO Box 1026-ME                          PO Box 492
Norwich, CT 06360                       Corvallis, OR 97399

-------------------------------------------------------------
Murray McMurray Hatchery
1-800-456-3280
Webster City, Iowa, 50595-0458
1-515-832-3280

Rare Breeds
bantams
chickens (they sell Dominiques ["Domineckers"] and Araucanas)
guineas
turkeys
peafowl
partridge
pheasants
goslings (they sell "weeder geese")
ducklings

supplies
equipment
books

 - this entry added by london@sunSITE.unc.edu
----------------------------------------------------------------

This is not a complete list, so I will be posting more later.  I have
received catalogs and price lists from a majority of these, but some
of them I haven't written to, so I don't if they still exist.  Anyway,
I'll try to get the other ones on later this week, and if anyone has 
an address to add, post it where I may see it also.

Happy Hatching,
Ernie Traylor
wtraylor@york.tec.sc.us

Article 8587 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mlfarm!auda!ron
From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
Subject: Re: HELP, SHEEP OWNERS!
In-Reply-To: ALICIAM@MAINE.MAINE.EDU's message of Thu, 14 Apr 1994 17:21:30 EDT
Message-ID: <CoAK92.2Er@mlfarm.com>
Lines: 45
Nntp-Posting-Host: auda.mlfarm.com
Organization: Maple Lawn Farm, Stonington, CT
References: <Co7tqy.DK1@oakhill.sps.mot.com> <2ojki6$ien@search01.news.aol.com>
	<2ojvcj$5ti@convex.convex.com> <94104.172130ALICIAM@MAINE.MAINE.EDU>
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 1994 08:14:57 GMT

ALICIAM@MAINE.MAINE.EDU writes:

   Wednesday morning we found our youngest ewe flat on her back on a
   completely flat piece of ground, all 4 legs up in the air. [...]
   called the vet; he couldn't find a thing wrong with her except
   elevated heart rate an slow moving rumen [...]  She tried many
   times to get up but couldn't.  [...]  Her legs are stretched right
   out straight behind her.
 
I'm reluctant to second-guess a vet or try long-distance diagnosis,
but three possibilities spring to mind: tetanus, white-muscle disease,
or some form of bloat.

Tetanus is endemic on any farm with equines.  Sheep can be vaccinated
with an annual injection of tetanus toxoid; there is also an antitoxin
which confers immediate short-term immunity.  The _TV Vet Sheep Book_
says that mild cases respond to daily injections of penicillin (6cc of
300,000 units/cc).  The prognosis for an acute case is not good.

White-muscle disease is caused by a deficiency of selenium and/or
vitamin E.  Soils in many areas of the US, including the northeast,
are low on selenium, so the sheep receive little in pasture and hay;
the selenium in commercially processed grains is limited because of
problems with toxicity.  White-muscle disease usually strikes young
lambs, presenting first as a stiffness in the rear legs.  The muscular
atrophy ultimately affects the heart muscles.  The treatment is an
injection of BOSE.  The recommended dosage for ewes is 2.5ml per 100
pounds of body weight.  It is best to err on the side of underdosage,
as selenium is highly toxic to sheep.  Recovery after an injection of
BOSE is quite spectacular.

Bloat is possible if the ewe was suddenly on lush alfalfa or clover
pasture (unlikely in April in Maine).  You would probably notice the
swollen left flank of the sheep.  The classic treatment is to puncture
the rumen with a trochar (the operation is described in Thomas Hardy's
_Far From the Madding Crowd_).  The more modern treatment is to
relieve the mass of foamy gas in the rumen by getting the sheep to
swallow one end of a hose.  There are also anti-bloat medications
available. 

Good luck with the ewe.
--

				Ronald Florence
				ron@mlfarm.com


Article 7923 of misc.rural:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!spitfire.navo.navy.mil!enterprise!jkc
From: jkc@pops.navo.navy.mil (Jay Cliburn)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: On raising chickens commercially...
Date: 2 Mar 1994 19:34:20 GMT
Organization: POPS Supercomputer Center
Lines: 195
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <2l2pns$aau@spitfire.navo.navy.mil>
Reply-To: jkc@pops.navo.navy.mil
NNTP-Posting-Host: enterprise.navo.navy.mil


The long term readers of this group may remember my query of about two
years ago when I sought information on the pros and cons of commercially
raising vast numbers of chickens.  At the time, my father was contemplating
retiring from his riverboat captain job and entering the poultry business
full time on our farm in Lawrence county, Mississippi.  I received several 
responses to my initial post of oh-so-long-ago -- mostly negative 
recommendations -- but, alas, despite the naysayers, Daddy went ahead with 
the effort.  This is a followup to that post.  It's LONG (~190 lines), so 
bail out if you're not interested.

(	First, something totally unrelated to the subject.  You may have 
	chuckled at my use of the term "Daddy."  However, virtually all 
	adult men and women in rural Mississippi (including this 37-year
	old male) refer to their fathers as "Daddy" -- pronounced "Deddy."  
	Mom is called "Mama."  Is this true in other areas as well?  
)

I'll start by describing the buildings that house the chickens.  There are
four houses; each house measures (about) 400' x 40'.  The construction 
utilizes regularly spaced, opposing, angular steel trusses with the bottom
end of each truss attached to the concrete foundation wall and the other 
(top) end connected to the top end of the opposing truss at the crown
of the roof.  The trusses form the structure for the walls and roof.  The
side walls are made of heavy vinyl/canvas type material which can be
raised and lowered automatically by a motorized system of pulleys to allow
ventilation and assist in temperature control.  There are four wall-mounted 
ventilation fans -- two on one wall bring fresh air into the house and two 
on the opposite wall exhaust air from the house.  These fans activate for
30 seconds every 10 minutes.  

The floor of each house is dirt, but is covered with about four inches 
of heavy pine sawdust (and smells wonderful to me when it's fresh and no 
chickens have yet soiled it).  A thin layer of fresh sawdust is added 
atop soiled litter prior to the arrival of each new batch of chicks after
the soiled litter is "cleaned".  Cleaning is accomplished by a specialized 
piece of machinery towed behind a tractor.  It scoops up the soiled litter, 
filters out the larger, chunky stuff and lays the finer sawdust back down 
onto the floor.  We then use this same pooper scooper machine (which has 
a spreader mechanism on the back) to distribute the manure on our pastures.
After cleaning, we get the thin layer of new sawdust spread over the old
stuff so the next batch of chicks won't get their little feet dirty.  :) 
After seven batches of chickens, the litter is completely removed and 
replaced.  This occurs about once per year.  Removal is performed by a 
nice man with a front loader and several tractor-trailer dump rigs.  He
comes in at no cost to us, loads up the manure/sawdust mixture, and takes
it to various points on the globe to sell it.  We then notify the chicken
processor that we have clean floors and are ready for "shavings."  Several
truckloads of the sweet-smelling pine sawdust arrive over the next couple
of days.  The trucks simply drive slowly through each house and spread the 
shavings over the floor.

At each end of the house is a large door to allow trucks and machinery 
to pass into and through the house.  Personnel access to each house is 
normally gained by passing through a small equipment control room annex, 
located at the midpoint of the building.  Inside this control room are 
the various timers, valves, compressed air lines, and controls for feeding 
and watering the birds and maintaining the feed and water lines.

Lighting inside each house is provided by incandescent bulbs (lots of them)
on a timer circuit.  The on/off ratio varies according to the age of
the chickens.  The side walls described above are opaque and are sometimes
lowered (that is, opened; they open downward), so lights are only used 
during hours of outside darkness.  There must be two independent sources
of electricity for each house.  Our sources are (1) the standard supply
provided by the local REA affiliate, and (2) a diesel generator used
during outages of (1). 

Heating is provided by four large, high capacity, thermostatically-
controlled, gas-fired heaters.  Four fans mounted on poles hang down from  
the ceiling to provide internal air circulation.  The poles are hinged at 
the ceiling to allow the fans to be raised (in unison, by pulleys) to the 
ceiling to allow clearance for trucks and machinery passing through the house.
The heaters are suspended by cables from the ceiling and may be raised
to the ceiling as well.

The chickens receive water through an automatic watering system.  There are
four water lines that run the length of each house.  These lines sit atop
the litter and are attached to thin cables connected to a ceiling-mounted
pulley system used to raise the water lines up to the ceiling.  (Keep in
mind that *everything* must be raised to the ceiling during evolutions that 
require passage of machinery through the house.)  Conical, plastic, water cups,
spaced at two foot intervals, are mounted to the top of each water line.
An inlet valve at the bottom of each cup (the apex of the cone) sports a
vertical appendage, which, when moved slightly to one side or the other, 
opens the valve to allow water into the cup (from the bottom).  A one-inch 
diameter plastic ball floats in the cup, and when the water level gets 
low enough, the ball comes into contact with the valve appendage, opens 
the valve, and water enters the cup.  Like electricity, two sources of
water are required.  We use (1) what we call "city" water, piped in from
the local water authority, and (2) a well for backup.  Water lines can
become plugged from time to time, and we clear them by blowing compressed
air through them.  Antibiotics and such are injected into the watering
system through a special fitting within the equipment control room.

The feeding system is designed to be automatic, although in practice it 
is much less so than the watering system.  Bulk feed is trucked in 
periodically and loaded into two 25-ton feed silos at each house.  The
formulation of the feed varies with the age of the chickens.  Feed is 
provided by the processor.  (FWIW, the processor in our case is Sanderson
Farms, Inc., of Laurel, Mississippi).  There are two feed lines which
run the length of each house, each line originating from its own 50 pound
feed hopper.  Again, like everything else in the house, all feed lines and 
hoppers are configured so that they may be raised to the ceiling.  The 
hoppers are filled from the silos using motorized Archimedes screws.
Similarly, the feed lines themselves use Archimedes screws to take feed
from the hoppers.  Evenly spaced about every two feet along each feed 
line are feed distribution ports.  When the chicks are very young, the 
feed simply dumps into shallow trays which the chicks can easily hop into.
(We place these trays on the floor prior to the chicks' arrival.)
At this age, the chicks are fed as much as they can eat.  When the birds
are ten days old, the trays are removed and cleaned (a dreadful task) and
the feed is distributed into circular feed troughs, also spaced at two
foot intervals along, and permantently mounted to, the feed lines.  We
close off the ports along the feed line which dumped into the trays.  From 
this time onward, feeding occurs every six hours and care must be used 
not to overfeed or underfeed the birds.  A timer is used to distribute 
"x" amount of feed at each feeding, where we have control over "x".  As 
you might expect, chickens will just about eat themselves to death if 
provided with enough feed, so we can't feed too much.  On the other hand, 
we don't want to underfeed either, since that produces smaller chickens, 
and hence less money.  The trick is to find that elusive balance of 
maximum bird weight with minimum feed consumption and mortality rates.

That about wraps it up for the particulars of the houses.  Are you still
here?  :)  Now I'll talk briefly about the day to day operations involved
in raising the chickens.

We raise broilers.  We receive 22,400 chicks from the hatchery into each 
(preheated) house at or before dawn on delivery day (it's no accident
that we refer to this as D-Day).  We end up with a total of 89,600 chicks
entrusted to our loving care for about 41 days.  The chicks arrive aboard
specially modified school buses (without seats, of course) in stacked,
shallow plastic crates, not unlike the ones that you find holding your
drinking glasses in your high school cafeteria.  We simply dump the little
fellers out onto the floor of their new home, and the hatchery folks load up
their empty trays and hit the road.  For the first few days, we check
on the chicks frequently; replenishing food and carefully monitoring their
health and condition.  Each morning we walk through the houses to pick up 
the birds that died the day before.  The highest mortality is almost always 
suffered on day four -- about 40 - 50 chicks per house.  (In one "defective" 
batch early this year we suffered a staggering day four loss of over 300 
birds in a single house!)  Carcasses are buried in pits about 100 meters 
away from the houses.

As mentioned earlier, on day 10 we remove the feed trays, convert
to the circular troughs, and begin 6-hour feeding intervals.  Life gets a
little easier at this point.  The birds grow pretty rapidly, and on day
39 or 40 have reached about 4.0 - 4.5 pounds.  The processor comes to
pick up the chickens after dark on day 40 or 41 -- after dark because
the birds are somewhat calmer than during daylight hours.  It's a busy
evening for us, which starts four hours before the pickup crews arrive.
We have to empty feed and water lines and raise all lines, heaters, and
fans to the ceiling to make way for the pickup crews.  They come at the
prearranged time (hopefully) and spend the rest of the night -- usually
until dawn -- picking up chickens by hand and putting them into stacked
cages on semi trucks.  Mortality is fairly high during this evolution;
a poultry biologist told us it's due to heart attacks and smothering as
the frightened birds pile onto one another to avoid their captors.  By 
dawn, the trucks rumble off into the distance carrying a few tens of 
thousands of bewildered chickens to meet their destiny and leaving a 
red-eyed and haggard family behind.

Once the chickens are gone and we've caught up on our sleep, we "clean" 
the litter, wash down and disinfect the inside of each house, and spread 
a thin layer of new pine shavings on the floor (or replace it altogether, 
if it's time).  Any maintenance on the various suspension equipment in the 
houses is performed at this time, and if we want to go on vacation or 
anything, now is the time to do it.  We have about two weeks of "empty 
time," and four days prior to the arrival of the next batch of chicks, 
we check out all heaters, fans, feed lines, water lines, and controls.  
Twenty-four hours prior to their arrival, we lay down the feed trays,
lower the feed and water lines, light off the heaters and bring the 
temperature in the houses up to 88 degrees F.  This must be done at 
the prescribed time in order to bring the litter up to temperature, 
otherwise the chicks suffer hypothermia from the "cold" floor.  The 
chick buses return the next morning and we start the cycle all over 
again!  And we love it!

Well, I've rambled on long enough.  Just thought I'd pass along our
experiences.  If you're ever in south Mississippi, give me a heads up.
I'd be delighted to show you around.  The sight and sound of 20,000+ 
chickens in one room never ceases to amaze.  :-)

--
***************************************************************************
*                                                                         *
*  Jay Cliburn                                  jkc@navo.navy.mil         *
*  Empress Software                             (601) 688-5083            *
*  Stennis Space Center, Mississippi                                      *
*                                                                         *
***************************************************************************
Be prepared to undergo privation and labor with cheerfulness and alacrity.
                                                             Braxton Bragg



From jdohner@aol.com Fri Sep  1 01:56:58 EDT 1995
Article: 7835 of alt.sustainable.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!sgigate.sgi.com!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news-e1a.megaweb.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail
From: jdohner@aol.com (JDohner)
Newsgroups: alt.sustainable.agriculture
Subject: Rare livestock breeds
Date: 30 Aug 1995 12:46:09 -0400
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 9
Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <4224kh$ok6@newsbf02.news.aol.com>
Reply-To: jdohner@aol.com (JDohner)
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com

I am writing a book on our rare and endangered breeds of livestock.  I
have enjoyed a great deal of help from the livestock conservation groups,
breed associations, and individuals.  I would like to invite people who
have special knowledge about or raise these breeds to share their info
with me.  I am looking for your observations about unique characteristics
or traits.  I am also looking for verification that these breeds will fit
into  economically viable agriculture.  I would appreciate learning about
your experiences.
JDohner@aol.com 


>Can someone tell me how to tell the difference between 
>a male and female Guinea Fowl?

Not being an expert by any means, I have found that *my* guinea hen turned
out to be the one who had somewhat "curled" wattles.  The male's wattles
(the red, fleshy part that hangs under the head on both sides) hang straight
down.  The hen's wattles curled under the head a little. 
-=-
The sure difference is that the female
is capable of making a certain noise that the male can not make.  They can both
make that ear-splitting loud cry, but the female makes another sound when she's
a little less agitated.  I'll try to describe the sound as best as I can:  it's
a two-beat sound that sort of sounds like a question.  It's like, "wop-wop?
wop-wop?" with an accent on the second wop.  Hope that helps!


Article 7883 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mlfarm!jenny!ron
From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
Subject: Re: Lamb creep feeder?
In-Reply-To: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu's message of 26 Feb 1994 13:07:30 -0800
Message-ID: <CLw2M3.HHM@mlfarm.com>
Lines: 24
Nntp-Posting-Host: auda.mlfarm.com
Organization: Maple Lawn Farm, Stonington, CT
References: <2kodmi$qqt@eis.calstate.edu>
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 15:20:20 GMT

Bruce A. Moon writes:

    Does anyone have ideas for a small creep feeder? I have never seen
   one, let alone plans but people say we should supplement the lambs
   with pellets to get them ready for the fair.  

You can make a quick & dirty creep feeder out of a standard 16-foot
welded hog or stock panel.  Use a boltcutter or hacksaw to cut two
6-inch by 18-inch openings in the panel, cover the rough edges with
duct tape or a length of split garden hose, then bend the panel into a
semi-circle and fasten to a wall of the barn.  You may need a couple
of anchors to hold the center section down.  Put a small feeder inside
and maybe a bright light over it, add a little leafy alfalfa hay, and
show the lambs where the goodies are.

We find that if the lambs aren't creep trained at a very young age
(one-two weeks), they don't get the habit.  This year we're trying a
mixture of cracked corn and soymeal for the creep, and gradually
mixing in the 16% coarse mixture that the ewes get.  The lambs seem to
like it.
--

				Ronald Florence
				ron@mlfarm.com


From rharris209@aol.comFri Mar 29 22:26:35 1996
Date: 29 Mar 1996 01:49:56 -0500
From: RHarris209 <rharris209@aol.com>
To: sustag-public@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Back Yard Business



My Father in Law, R.V. Dick Johnson and I would like to exchange
information with those interested Heliciculture ( escargot snail farming).

Dick just returned from a trip sponsored by the United States Government
to Western Europe.  He was sent there for a month to show them how to
raise, market and ship snails.  He is considered one of the foremost
authorities on the subject in the United States  He has a lot of
information to share with those interested.

We have been raising snails both indoors and outdoors for the past ten
years.  It has become a good business for us.  This year we have delivered
approx. 80,000 snails to distributors and growers.  We have experience
with both greenhouse and outdoor pen growing environments.

If you are considering starting your own growing operation, please e-mail
us with your questions. 

Should you want us to send you materials, our e-mail address is 
frescargot@aol.com.  Or visit our home page which includes some technical
information as well as an anatomy of a snail at
http://www.paccon.com/snails/

 
We look forward to hearing from you.

Reed Harris
rharris209@aol.com

R.V. "Dick" Johnson
Frescargot Farms
frescargot@aol.com


Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
From: jdryan@mmm.com (Jerry D. Ryan - Tech. Computations - (612) 733-3595 - jdryan@mmm.com)
Subject: Re: SHEEP BREEDS INFO NEEDED
Reply-To: jdryan@mmm.com
Organization: 3M - St. Paul, Minnesota
Date: 16 Mar 1994 20:59 -0600    

>Does anybody know anything (or even heard of) the sheep breeds:
>Targee
> 	I quote from Paula Simmons' "Rasing Sheep the Modern Way":

"TARGHEE
	The Targhee is a hearty American breed, developed by mating outstanding
Rambouillet rams to ewes of Corriedale x Lincoln Rambouillet stock, and ewes of
only Lincoln-Rambouillet, and following that by interbreeding the resulting 
lambs.  The work was done since 1926 by the United States Sheep Experiment
Station in Dubois, Idaho to meet the demand for a breed of sheep that was thick 
in natural musceling, prolific, producing high-quality apparel-type wool, and
adapted to both farm and range conditions.  It gets it name from the Targhee
National Forest on which the Experiment Station flock grazes in the summer.

	It is a large-sized, dual purpose sheep with a good meat type and
heavy fleece (11 to 16 pounds) of good wool, about 1/2 blood, 3 inches 
length, or more.  It has a clean face and no skin folds, with ewes 
weighing from 125 to 200 pounds, and rams from 200 to 300 pounds.

	Experimental work at the University of Idaho has show the Targhee to
have an inherited resistance to internal parasites and no hoof troubles.  
The breed can also claim a very long productive life.

	It is noted for an ease of lambing, and high percentage of twins or
triplets.

	On the National Livestock Producer's breed chart, ..., it took
second place."


From: arnod@mayo.edu (DREW ARNOLD)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Subject: Re: SHEEP BREEDS INFO NEEDED
Date: 16 Mar 1994 21:03:06 GMT

The Targhee (I believe this is the correct spelling) was
developed at the U.S. Sheep Experiment Station at Dubois, Idaho. 
The Targhee is a Rambouillet x Lincoln crossed back to a
Rambouillet, making it 3/4 Rambouillet and 1/4 Lincoln.  The
cross creates a large-framed, medium muscled sheep with about 64
spin count wool (15 micron?).

Drew

*****************************************************************
+ DREW ARNOLD             |arnod@mayo.edu |"I'M A REBEL WITHOUT +
+ ENDOCRINE RESEARCH UNIT |(507) 255-6586 |  A CLUE "           +
+ MAYO FOUNDATION         |               |                     +
+ 4-407 ALFRED            |               | -The Replacements   +
+ ROCHESTER, MN 55905     |               |                     +
*****************************************************************

Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Reply-To: slc@envirolaw.win.net (Stephen L. Castner)
From: slc@envirolaw.win.net (Stephen L. Castner)
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 1994 15:31:51 GMT
Subject: Re: SHEEP BREEDS INFO NEEDED

 
Targhees were bred in the 1920s at the USDA Sheep Experimental
Station at Dubois, Idaho, combining about 3/4 fine wool breeding
(Rambouillet) with about 1/4 long wool breeding.  Targhees are
white faced and resemble Rambouillets in appearance, intermediate to
large in size, with ewes weighing in the 140-200 pound range and
rams in the 200 to 300 pound range. The ewes are durable, often
producing for a decade. 

Targhees were developed for range conditions and are a major breed
in Wyoming, Montana and South Dakota.  They also do well as a farm
flock breed, and are widely raised in Wisconsin, among many other
states.  They are quite adaptable to varied forage and climatic
conditions. 

Their fleeces are somewhat less fine than Rambouillets and Merinos,
but are considerably finer than most of the meat breeds.

Targhee ewes have good mothering and milking ability.  They have
high twinning rates under range conditions.  The breeder of the
1993 U.S. champion ram has a consistent lambing record of more
than 200 percent from his flock in Wisconsin.

Targhees produce large lambs, which have a high rate of gain. The
breed exhibits a high rate of pounds of lamb weaned per ewe bred,
making them desirable for both feeder and custom freezer lamb
operations, important qualities for the post-Wool Act period. 

For more information, contact:

                George Mann, President
                U.S. Targhee Sheep Association
                Route 1, Box 199B
                Fairchild, Wisconsin 54741
                715-286-5041
                
                Dean Von Krosigk, Vice-President
                U.S. Targhee Sheep Association
                111 Hoot Owl Road
                Riverton, Wyoming 82501
                307-856-3125

You might be interested to know that the U.S. Targhee Association
directory lists four Canadian members, three in Alberta and one in
Ontario, but, alas, none in B.C. 


 

_______________________________________________________
/`-._     Steve Castner slc@envirolaw.win.net        |
 {     }/ 1650 Ninth Avenue, P.O. Box 164            |
  \   ./  Grafton, Wisconsin 53024-0164              |
   |___|  Voice: (414) 377-9377  Fax: (414) 377-5002 |






Article 5550 of misc.rural:
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ssd.intel.com!dand
From: dand@ssd.intel.com (Dan Dreiszus)
Subject: Re: Free ranging turkeys? (Followup)
Message-ID: <C825py.ADB@SSD.intel.com>
Sender: usenet@SSD.intel.com
Nntp-Posting-Host: gormley
Organization: Supercomputer Systems Divison, Intel Corp.
References: <C6z5Fv.MJ2@SSD.intel.com> <110@east-wind.win.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1993 18:22:45 GMT
Lines: 59

Several netters forwarded me the original post, which appeared
some time ago. Since there seems to be a lot of interest in this,
I'm re-posting it.

The name of the breed is the Wishard Bronze turkey. 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

The author of the article below, David Sullenberger, is a professor of 
biology at New Mexico State University. He is an AMBC member, and keeps
a flock of Wishard Bronze turkeys. For a copy of the entire article plus
the bibliography, send a 45-cent SASE to AMBC, Box 477, Pittsboro, NC 27312.

In the not too distant past turkey was strictly holiday fare. Supply was
seasonal and nearly always lagging demand, which made turkey too expensive
for everyday meals. Intense management, close confinement, balanced 
rations, sub-therapeutic medication, growth hormones, selective breeding
and artificial insemination (AI) have changed all that.

The use of AI has been critical, because over the past 25 years breeders
have been busy putting more meat on the birds - especially breast meat -
and those large, meaty breasts very effectively prevent the toms from
mating.

There is, however, at least one breed of domestic turkey that can procreate
without aid from man. The "unimproved" breed is the Wishard strain of
naturally mating Bronze turkeys. Wishard naturally mating bronze turkeys
are vigorous, flight-capable, intelligent, good-looking, weather-tolerant
and disease resistant. They got that way by virture of nearly 50 years of
what for all practical purposes amounts to natural selection - Wishard 
turkeys have never been pampered.

"They either made it or they didn't. They flew to avoid coyotes, hid to
avoid hawks, foraged for a lot of their diet ant if they got sick they lived
or died on their own." Wishard hatched eggs from his own hens, raised the 
poults to 8 weeks on wire, then turned them out to pasture to fend for 
themselves until harvest. The ranging birds were provided with minimal
care in simple facilities consisting of pastures enclosed by woven wire
fence, elementary shelters and roots, feeding and watering stations 
which were moved a few yards each week to minimize ground contamination,
and rotation to new pasture as appropriate. Breeding stock were those 
birds held over at harvest time. No formal selective or pedigree breeding
was practiced and all mating was the responsibility of the toms - exclusively.

The Wishard strain of bronze turkeys represents an invaluable genetic 
resourse of highly adapted, low-input, production meat birds. As we enter
the 1990's - a period in which our nation's agricultural productions
practices will be seriously questioned by chemically-conscious consumers,
environmentalists and politicians - there is comfort in knowing that at
least one low-input, self-propagating turkey breed is still around and 
competing nicely.


If you are interested in beginning a flock of Wishard Bronze turkeys, 
contact Wish Hatchery, Box 362, Prairie City, OR 97869, (503) 820-3509.

AMBC member Peter Jorgensen also has a flock of Wishard Bronze, and can
be reached at CS Fund Conservancy, 469 Bohemian Highway, Freestone,
CA 95472, (707) 874-2942.


From adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.eduFri Nov 25 11:32:29 1994
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 08:13:23 +22300129 (EST)
From: Adam Finkelstein <adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu>
To: london@sunsite.unc.edu
Subject: no subject (file transmission)

Path: solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.mathworks.com!udel!gatech!paladin.american.edu!auvm!EARN.CVUT.CZ!LBARTOS
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: sci.bio.ethology
Message-ID: <ETHOLOGY%94112511103945@SEARN.SUNET.SE>
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 11:14:09 MET
Sender: Ethology <ETHOLOGY@SEARN.BITNET>
From: Ludek Bartos <LBARTOS@EARN.CVUT.CZ>
Subject: Re: Sus scrofa (pig) social behavior
In-Reply-To: Message of Tue, 1 Nov 1994 23:31:57 GMT from
              <jweiland@BADLANDS.NODAK.EDU>
Lines: 44
Xref: solaris.cc.vt.edu sci.bio.ethology:1282

Sorry I am answering your question after such a long time. May
be you have already got a lot of citations. Just in case,
enclosed you will find some literature on wild boar from my
files, which might be of some use.

Ludek Bartos


Andrzejewski, R., Jezierski, W. (1978): Management of a wild boar
population and its effects on commercial land . Acta Theriologica
23: 309-339.

Grundlach, H. (1968): Brutf rsorge, Brutpflege, Verhaltensontoge-
nese und Tagesperiodik beim Europ ischen Wildschwein (<Sus
scrofa> L.). Zeitschrift f r Tierpsychologie 25: 955-995.

Howe, T. D., Singer, F. J., Ackerman, B. B. (1981): Forage
relationships of European boar in Northern Hardwood forest.
Journal of Wildlife Management 45: 748-754.

Jezierski, W. (1977): Longevity and mortality rate in a popula-
tion of wild boar. Acta Theriologica 22: 337-348.

Mauget, R. (1981): Behavioural and reproductive strategies in
wild forms of <Sus-scrofa>. In: Welfare of Pigs Science (Sybesma,
W. ed.), Martinus Nijhoff, Hague, pp. 1-7.

Mauget, R., Semper , A. (1978): Locomotory behaviour in 2 wild
ungulates, roe deer and European wild boar as determined by
radiotracking. Biol. Behav. 3 : 331-.

Robert, S., Dancosse, J., Dallaire, A. (1987): Some observations
on the role of environment and genetics in behaviour of wild and
domestic forms of <Sus scrofa> (European wild boars and domestic
pigs). Applied Animal Behaviour Science 17: 253-262.

Schnebel, E. M., Griswold, J. G. (1983): Agonistic interactions
during competition for different resources in captive European
wild pigs (<Sus scrofa>). Applied Animal Ethology 10: 291-300.

Wood, G. W., Brenneman, R. E. (1980): Feral hog movements and
habitat use in coastal South Carolina. Journal of Wildlife
Management 44: 420-.


From pbl5890@tntech.edu Sun Jun 12 23:14:47 EDT 1994
Article: 9659 of misc.rural
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!atlas.tntech.edu!pbl5890
From: pbl5890@tntech.edu
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Wiltshire Horn Sheep
Message-ID: <1994Jun10.113023.769@atlas.tntech.edu>
Date: 10 Jun 94 11:30:22 -0600
Organization: Tennessee Tech University
Lines: 9

Does anyone out there raise Wiiltshire Horn sheep? I only
know of 3-4 pure flocks in the US and they're all related.
We're *very* interested in getting some new blood (poss
importing semen from Australia?) but would like to link up
with other shepherds. Any interest? Eventually would like to
have a registry.


Pat L.



