From AGSIEVEFB.parti@parti.inforum.org Sun Jan 15 21:33:30 EST 1995
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Subject: INTERNATIONAL AG-SIEVE
Date: 14 Jan 1995 00:19:47 -0000
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***********************************************************
INTERNATIONAL AG-SIEVE  Volume VII, number 1   (SOIL FAUNA)
***********************************************************

-Spreading the word about vermicompost

-What is Vermiculture?


Below are more rough articles which will be included in the next issue (Vol 
VII, 1) of the International Ag-Sieve. The purpose of this electronic version 
of the newsletter is to send out the soon-to-be-printed articles to you, the 
reader, in the hope that you will respond and comment on the contents. Please 
send your suggestions to:

Agsievefb.inbox@parti.inforum.org

Once comments are read, stylistic changes are made according to suggestions, 
and some individual remarks will be added to the printed version under our 
Readers React column. I hope you enjoy this up-coming issue, and I look forward

to your reactions.


Sincerely,

Roger Bairstow
Communications Manager
Rodale Research Institute

                                           
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Spreading the word about vermicompost

In the past ten years a group in India has prompted many farmers and 
institutions to switch from conventional chemicals to an organic fertilizer 
known as vermicompost.
Vermicompost is produced by certain breeds of earthworms which have become 
valuable friends to farmers in India.  By processing organic wastes, these 
worms produce vermicompost. Noted for its ability to increase organic matter 
and trace minerals, vermiculture has been a primary focus at Maharashtra 
Agricultural Bioteks in India, an organization which has initiated both 
commercial and educational ventures to promote vermiculture.  

In 1985 Maharashtra Agricultural Bioteks formed a company and set up a small 
plant to manufacture vermicompost from agricultural waste  Those involved 
believed that moving people towards sustainable agriculture might be best 
achieved by successfully operating a commercial venture based on regenerative 
principles.

Over the years, the organization has grown and produces 5,000 tons of 
vermicompost annually.  Its real achievement, however, has been in raising an 
awareness among farmers, research workers and policy makers in India about 
regenerative food production methods.

The group has been directly  responsible for 2,000 farmers and 
horticulturalists adopting vermicomposting.  These "converted" farmers and 
horticulturalists have now started secondary dissemination of vermicompost 
principles to their neighbors.

In 1991-92 Maharashtra Bioteks working with the India Department of Science 
and Technology promoted the adoption of vermicompost technology throughout 13 
states in India.  The group has also established a vermicompost unit with 
Chitrakoot Gramodaya University at Chitrakoot, Madhya Pradesh which produces 
five tons of compost per month. 

Research, Education and Demonstration 

The research agenda includes a program for the reduction of chemical 
fertilizer use on grapes, pomegranates and bananas.  Nearly 1,000 farmers are 
using vermicompost as a soil amendment in their orchards, reducing the use of 
chemical fertilizers by 90%.  Similar work is underway on mangoes, cashews, 
coconuts, oranges, limes, strawberries and various vegetable crops.

The organization has devised methods to convert some biodegradable industrial 
waste (pulp waste from paper mills, filter cake and liquid effluent from sugar 
factories, fruit and vegetable processing units, cafeteria waste and assorted 
city waste) into vermicompost.  These wastes are commonly regarded as 
pollutants.  Three facilities are already producing thirty tons of vermicompost

each month.

The organization has created a program which trains housewives and home 
gardeners to produce their own vermicompost from household and garden waste.  
The principle aim of this work is to increase awareness about regenerative 
practices.  To this end, vermicompost units have been developed and distributed

and in one year 100 housewives were trained to use them.

Contact:
Dr. Henamgee Jambhekar
Maharashtra Agricultural Bioteks
B/9 Shivai Housing Society
Near Sane Guruji Smarak
Pune: 411 030.  INDIA
Phone: 91-212-431983


What is Vermiculture?

Through their simple act of eating, earthworms promote bacterial growth, 
enhance soil structure and hasten decomposition of organic matter. However, not

all  earthworms are suitable for vermiculture.  

Earthworms are divided into two groups: humus formers and humus feeders.  The 
first group dwell on the surface and feed on nearly 90% fresh organic materials

and 10% soil.  They are generally red in color, have a flat tail and are also 
called epegic or detritivorous worms.  It is these worms that are harnessed for

vermicomposting. The second group, i.e. the humus feeders, are deep burrowing 
worms which are useful in making the soil porous and mixing and distributing 
humus through the soil.

Preparing your Vermicompost

%  Materials- You will need a supply of breeder worms and a wooden bed in 
which to keep them and the organic wastes. The bed should be 2 1/2 ft. high x 4

ft. wide x any length that is possible. You will also need a hose with which to

water the beds periodically and bags for packing the vermicompost.
    
%  Sieving and shredding- Decomposition can be accelerated if raw materials 
are shredded into small pieces. 

%  Blending-  Substances lacking in nitrogen (N) like sawdust, paper and straw 
can be mixed with nitrogen rich materials such as sewage sludge, biogas slurry 
and fish scraps to obtain a near optimum C/N ratio of 30:1/40:1.  A varied 
mixture of substances provides a good quality compost, rich in both major and 
micro nutrients.

%  Half digestion-  Before feeding to the worms, the raw materials should be 
kept in piles where the temperature is allowed to reach 50-55 degrees C 
(122-131 degrees F).  The piles should remain at this temperature for 7 to 10 
days.  

%  Moisture, temperature and pH-  The optimum moisture level for maintaining 
aerobic conditions is 40-45%.  Proper moisture and aeration can be maintained 
by mixing fibrous with nitrogen rich materials. The temperature of the piles 
should be within 28-30 degrees C (83-86 degrees F).  Higher or lower 
temperatures will reduce the activity of microflora and earthworms. The height 
of the earthworms' bed can help control the rise in temperature.   The pH of 
the raw material should not exceed 6.5 to 7.

After about a month the compost is ready.  It will be black, granular, 
lightweight and humus-rich.  To facilitate separating the worms from the 
compost, stop watering two to three days before emptying the beds. This will 
force about 80% of the worms to head to the bottom of the bed.  The rest of the

worms can be removed by hand. The vermicompost can then be packed in bags is 
and ready for application.

Jambhhekar, Hemangee.  Maharashtra Agricultural Bioteks training material.


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Date: Tue, 5 Apr 1994 14:03:07 -0700
From: Mat Werner <werner@zzyx.UCSC.EDU>
To: sanet-mg@oes.orst.edu
Subject: Cuban vermiculture


Hello,

Anyone who is interested in reading my article on Cuban vermiculture, 
how about sending me your address and I'll snail mail a copy to you. (Or 
attempt to instruct me on the use of Crosstalk software to send a WOrd 
file over email.)

Matt Werner
UCSC Agroecology Program
From bbowman@julian.uwo.caFri Apr  5 20:00:30 1996
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 1996 21:03:44 -0800
From: "Bruce T. Bowman" <bbowman@julian.uwo.ca>
To: sustag-public@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: Earthworms

At our web site, we have a FAQ on earthworms, as well as an "Earthworm 
BBS" to which you may submit your questions, and receive a reply from one 
of many ecologists which monitor the BBS from around the world.

There are several info packages for download, and several others that you 
can request to be sent to you.

Our URL is:

Pest Management Research Centre, Agriculture & Agri-Food Canada
http://res.agr.ca/lond/pmrc/pmrchome.html

On the Home Page, Select FAQs, then the Earthworm FAQ from the next page.

Good Luck
From jim.mcnelly@midwest.orgTue Jan 23 15:29:44 1996
Date: Fri, 12 May 1995 10:34:00 +0600
From: Jim Mcnelly <jim.mcnelly@midwest.org>
To: sustag-public@ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: WORMS

Juan writes:
References: <Pine.HPP.3.91.950511000340.13304E-100000@forth.stir.ac.uk> 

MR> I am culturing worms (E. foetida), and feeding fish with it. It is a
MR> good proteine source. On the other hand I've got pleanty of humus as
MR> a result of the worm culture, however I do not know how good it
MR> could be as an organic fertlizer? It is made of aquatic plants
MR> (Pistia stratiotes) and caw manure. Do somebody knows what to do
MR> with this stuff?

As a person who has been raising e.foetida for 22 years and with 
extensive experience marketing worm castings, I recommend using it as a 
potting soil amendment in rations from 20% to 33%. Of over 1,000 plant 
growth trials I am familiar with, no container plant tested did not 
benefit from the worm compost over conventional compost.

At studies at the Rothampstead research station in the 1980s conducted 
by Dr. Clive Edwards now at the Ohio State University, plant growth 
using worm castings was increased 20% to 200% over controls as measured 
by increased root mass, numbers of shoots, and size of plant.

You can also add it when planting shrubs, flowers, and trees, as well as 
using it in the garden around the active root zone. Some people market 
the product as a top dressing for house plants, but the benefits seem to 
be most pronounced when the castings are in the plant root zone.

Mr Compost~~~

Jim~ McNelly

Please note new E-mail address
compost@cloudnet.com


 * RM 1.3 02460 * Scotty, I need that power!

------------------============<>=============-----------------
   Granite City Connection (612) 654-8372 28.8K 3 Lines
   Email: jim.mcnelly@midwest.org (Jim Mcnelly)
------------------============<>=============-----------------
From soilecol@magnus.acs.ohio-state.eduTue Jan 23 15:31:28 1996
Date: 15 May 1995 16:50:15 GMT
From: OSU Soil Ecology Lab <soilecol@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
To: sustag-public@ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: WORMS

In article <36.295.1676@midwest.org>,
Jim Mcnelly <jim.mcnelly@midwest.org> wrote:
>Juan writes:
>References: <Pine.HPP.3.91.950511000340.13304E-100000@forth.stir.ac.uk>
>
>MR> I am culturing worms (E. foetida), and feeding fish with it. It is a
>MR> good proteine source...

>As a person who has been raising e.foetida for 22 years and with
>extensive experience marketing worm castings, I recommend using it as a
>potting soil amendment in rations from 20% to 33%.

>At studies at the Rothamstead research station in the 1980s conducted
>by Dr. Clive Edwards now at the Ohio State University, plant growth
>using worm castings was increased 20% to 200% over controls as measured
>by increased root mass, numbers of shoots, and size of plant.

Right on!

Hello from the OSU Sustainable Agriculture Program; Clive Edwards, Director

Earthworms are excellent for processing a variety of wastes, from restaurant
food, yard wastes, to a myriad of manures.  The castings are excellent plant
growth media and have consistently outperformed commercial plant growth media
in tests.  You can use the castings straight, without mixing or further
amendment for simple results.

Good sources to check for further information might be:

Biology of Earthworms, (1972) by C.A. Edwards and J.R. Lofty, Chapman and Hall,
London (2nd Edition), the extensively revised 3rd edition will be out later 
in 1995.

Earthworms in Waste and Environmental Management,  (1988) by Edwards and E.F.
Neuhauser. SPB Academic Publishing, The Hague, The Netherlands.

Also, Biocycle magazine has a nice section in the October 1994 edition (Volume
35, No. 10) from various authors on earthworms and composting.

And the latest edition of Biocycle has a popular article by Dr. Edwards
(although I haven't seen it in print, yet).

Hope this helps,
Matt.
From soilecol@magnus.acs.ohio-state.eduTue Jan 23 15:30:56 1996
Date: 15 May 1995 16:50:15 GMT
From: OSU Soil Ecology Lab <soilecol@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
To: sustag-public@ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: WORMS

In article <36.295.1676@midwest.org>,
Jim Mcnelly <jim.mcnelly@midwest.org> wrote:
>Juan writes:
>References: <Pine.HPP.3.91.950511000340.13304E-100000@forth.stir.ac.uk>
>
>MR> I am culturing worms (E. foetida), and feeding fish with it. It is a
>MR> good proteine source...

>As a person who has been raising e.foetida for 22 years and with
>extensive experience marketing worm castings, I recommend using it as a
>potting soil amendment in rations from 20% to 33%.

>At studies at the Rothamstead research station in the 1980s conducted
>by Dr. Clive Edwards now at the Ohio State University, plant growth
>using worm castings was increased 20% to 200% over controls as measured
>by increased root mass, numbers of shoots, and size of plant.

Right on!

Hello from the OSU Sustainable Agriculture Program; Clive Edwards, Director

Earthworms are excellent for processing a variety of wastes, from restaurant
food, yard wastes, to a myriad of manures.  The castings are excellent plant
growth media and have consistently outperformed commercial plant growth media
in tests.  You can use the castings straight, without mixing or further
amendment for simple results.

Good sources to check for further information might be:

Biology of Earthworms, (1972) by C.A. Edwards and J.R. Lofty, Chapman and Hall,
London (2nd Edition), the extensively revised 3rd edition will be out later 
in 1995.

Earthworms in Waste and Environmental Management,  (1988) by Edwards and E.F.
Neuhauser. SPB Academic Publishing, The Hague, The Netherlands.

Also, Biocycle magazine has a nice section in the October 1994 edition (Volume
35, No. 10) from various authors on earthworms and composting.

And the latest edition of Biocycle has a popular article by Dr. Edwards
(although I haven't seen it in print, yet).

Hope this helps,
Matt.
From r6831459@postoffice.ptd.netWed Jul 12 16:22:01 1995
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 16:26:37 -0400
From: roger bairstow <r6831459@postoffice.ptd.net>
To: nc-solar@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Vermicomposting


To anyone interested in vermicomposting:

I am currently investigating the possibility of vermicomposting yard waste
for a joint project between the Rodale Institute and the Municipal Solid
Waste Management Department of the Lehigh County of Pennsylvania.

If anyone knows of any current or past projects dealing with
vermicomposting yard waste - primarily leaves and grass - I would be very
appreciative if you could share that information with me.  Any research
papers, articles, books, contacts, etc would be great.

I am interested in all aspects of this procedure, however I am particularly
interested in the following:

1. rate of inoculation with worms
2. the best worm(s) to be used
3. what other organic materials should be added and how much
4. ideal windrow dimensions (currently 10' height, 18' width 20'length)
5. detailed information on methods
6. aeration, moisture, pH, salt, and fermentable organic matter requirements

Any information would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you for your time.  I
apologize for the cross-posting.

Sincerely,
Bill Landesman
r6831459@postoffice.ptd.net

Rodale Institute
611 Siegfriedale Road
Kutztown, PA 19530
phone:(610)683-1458
fax: (610)683-8548

From steved@sunSITE.unc.eduMon May  6 17:53:05 1996
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 10:30:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: Steve Diver <steved@sunSITE.unc.edu>
To: teama@sunSITE.unc.edu, teamh@sunSITE.unc.edu
Cc: Steve Diver <steved@sunSITE.unc.edu>
Subject: Vermiculture--Indian experience and experiments

I am forwarding the following email on vermicomposting. 
STOP HERE AND DELETE if worm compost does not interest you. 



Date:         Tue, 1 Jun 93 16:41:28 ITA
Reply-To:     Preston Hardison <pdh@u.washington.edu>
Sender:       
 "The Food and Agriculture Organization  Library Bulletin Service              AGRIS-L" <AGRIS-L%IRMFAO01.BITNET@vm.cnuce.cnr.it>
From:         Preston Hardison <pdh@U.WASHINGTON.EDU>
Subject:      Vermiculture--Indian experience and experiments
X-To:         agric-l%uga.BITNET@uwavm.u.washington.edu
X-cc:         agris-l%irmfao01.BITNET@uwavm.u.washington.edu
To:           Multiple Recipients of <AGRIS-L%IRMFAO01.BITNET@vm.cnuce.cnr.it>
Status: RO



Date: Fri, 28 May 93 07:35:18+050
From: "Prof. Anil Gupta" <anilg@iimahd.ernet.in>

I am enclosing a report prepared by Astad Pastakia, doctoral student working
with me at IIMA on sustainable Pest Management. He has met some of the
leading vermiculture practitioners in the country. This report will appear
in the next issue of Honey bee---a journal of farmers; innovation and
sustainable technologies and institutions brought from here.

Comments are welcome:
anil K Gupta
anilg@iimahd.ernet.in


                                The Missing Link

                    A report on Vermiculture by Astad Pastakia


                   Hemangee  Jambhekhar and her husband Abhay  are  among
            the   pioneers  of  the  vermicompost  industry   in   India.
            Vermicomposting  is  the process of  preparing  compost  from
            organic  waste with the help of earthworms.  The  Jambhekhars
            believe  that  vermicompost  is a natural  product  with  the
            potential of revolutionising Indian agriculture. The response
            of   early   adopters   among  farmers   has   been   equally
            enthusiastic.   The  enterprise  has  received   wide   media
            coverage.  The  Entrepreneurship  Development  Institute  has
            recognised  Hemangee's efforts by including  a write - up  in
            its  recently published book on women entrepreneurs of  India
            (Kanetkar, 1992).

                   It  was  Hemangee who during the course of  her  field
            experiments  for  her  dissertation,  realised  that   vermi-
            composting could be the missing link between chemical farming
            and  organic  farming a la Fukuoka. Realising that  the  idea
            could "fundamentally alter the basic concept of  agriculture"
            Abhay  decided to join Hemangee in her effort  to  popularise
            the idea. What follows is a brief account of the journey from
            discovery  and innovation to enterprise.
             Early Days

                  In 1973, both Abhay and Hemangee joined as "pracharaks"
            in  an  institute for leadership development,  called  Nayana
            Prabhodini,  at  Pune.  The institute,  founded  in  1962  by
            Dr.V.V.Pendse   was   based  on  the  philosophy   of   Swami
            Vivekananda.  The  institute had a department  of  Psychology
            which  conducted  I.Q. tests in order to  select  outstanding
            students  for leadership training in its school. In order  to
            attain  financial  independence the institute had  started  a
            factory for manufacturing electrical capacitors. The  factory
            had  attained  a  turnover of about  one  crore  rupees  when
            certain  changes  in  the environment of  the  industry  took
            place.  The  institute's  response  was  to  invest  in   the
            khandsari  industry.  As  it  turned  out,  this   investment
            resulted  in losses with the collapse of khandsari  industry.
            Subsequently the business was wound up and a fabrication shop
            was  set  up.This  was handed over to  an  aluminous  of  the
            institute  to  manage, with some arrangement for  payment  of
            rent to the institute.

                  In  1984-85, Hemangee went to Punjab on behalf  of  the
            institute  for  a project on national  integration.  She  was
            there for two years. Her analysis of the situation in  Punjab
            led her to believe that the social disturbance there could be
            traced  to  economic disturbance. The cost of  production  in
            green-revolution  areas  had  shot up. This was  one  of  the
            factors for economic disturbance.

                  After returning from Punjab, Hemangee decided to do her
            doctorate  in the area of communication under  Dr.Bhinde  who
            was the director of EMRC at Pune University. The latter was a
            pioneer   of  several  departments  at  the  University.   He
            suggested  five  topics for her dissertation  work.  Hemangee
            chose   the  one  related  to  communication   of   earthworm
            technology.  The  choice was guided partly  by  her  academic
            background  (she  had  a post graduation  in  Chemistry)  and
            partly by her experience in Punjab.

                  Meanwhile    Abhay  had  got  involved  in  agriculture
            through the farmer's movement led by Sharad Joshi during  his
            college   days.  In  one  of  the  meetings   Abhay   recalls
            questioning  the  strategy of the movement, in  lobbying  for
            remunerative  prices. Given the fact that input  expenses  of
            farmers  were rising all the time, what could be achieved  by
            getting  remunerative  prices  ? One  should  concentrate  on
            controlling  input  costs.  "That will be  the  real  magic."
            Sharad Joshi asked him to come up with the alternatives .  He
            himself  continued  with the policy of  lobbying  for  better
            commodity  prices. More recently, he too has turned round  to
            promoting  "sita  seti"  --  the  "do  nothing"  approach  to
            farming.  Hence  when  Abhay  completed  his  graduation   in
            commerce, he started showing interest in Hemangee's project.

             Conceptual Breakthrough :

                 Hemangee   realised  that  alternative  agriculture   as
            proposed  by  Fukuoka in his "One Straw Revolution  "  (1978)
            was not viable in Indian conditions. Japan enjoyed rains four
            times  a year. In India, except for few pockets,  rains  were
            not  so  frequent. More than half of Indian  agriculture  was
            practiced  under  dryland conditions.  Hence  an  alternative
            system of farming, different from the one proposed by Fukuoka
            had  to  be evolved, which would be  appropriate  for  Indian
            conditions.

                  Soil  management was seen as the key to such  a  system
            and  "humus"  formation as the key to good  soil  management.
            This  was because humus could affect the  physical,  chemical
            and   biological  properties  of  soil.  Hemangee   therefore
            concentrated   her  efforts  on  ways  of   improving   humus
            formation,  for which surface earthworms became  the  natural
            agent.

                  Humus  formation " in situ" was not possible in  Indian
            rainfed conditions because of three reasons:

                    (i)  uncertainty  of  rains,
                   (ii)  heavy  sunlight  --  causing  heavy  losses  of
                         organic carbon,
                   (iii) lack of organic matter.

                  Hence  addition of humus to the soil was  essential  --
            particularly  for  dry  lands and  on  farms  where  chemical
            fertilization was being discontinued. Vermicompost offered  a
            promising way to fill this requirement of humus.

                  Earthworms  work  symbiotically  with  micro-organisms.
            This  greatly enhances the ability of the latter in  reducing
            raw  organic matter into compost. The time needed to  compost
            agricultural  waste  is brought down from six months  to  one
            month.

                  The  choice of earthworm is an important aspect in  the
            evolution  of  the technology. Out of 3000 known  species  of
            earthworms,  Hemangee selected two deep burrowing  types  and
            two surface types of earthworms for her initial  experiments.
            After  the  first  few trials she  had  settled  for  surface
            earthworms.  The  technical considerations that led  to  this
            choice are important and are discussed in a later section.

                  Hemangee  received  a  scholarship to  do  her  Ph.D.in
            communications  from  a  private firm  called  Western  India
            Enterprises.  Mr. Avinach  Waddekar the proprietor of of  the
            firm was interested in the earthworm technology for  disposal
            of  lignitious  and  agro-industrial  wastes.  He  encouraged
            Hemangee to experiment on vermicomposting at his  twenty-five
            acre farm ,close to Pune.

                  In  the compost application experiments, yield data  of
            vermicompost plots were compared with those plots where  only
            organic and only chemical methods were used. The data  showed
            that while yield of organic plots were supressed the yield of
            vermicompost   plots  were  almost  the  same  as  those   of
            chemically treated plots. For Hemangee this was a major break
            through.  It  implied  that  farmers  need  not  worry  about
            superssion  of yields on discontinuance of chemical  methods,
            if they took care to apply vermicompost. This was the missing
            link  between  chemical  and organic  farming  that  she  was
            looking for.

                  The  opportunity  to test these ideas of  the  farmers'
            fields  came  when  members of the  Maharashtra  State  Grape
            Growers' Association approached her on hearing about her work
            with  earthworms. The grape farmers had problems of  salinity
            and  waterlogging  in  their fields for which  they  were  in
            search  for  solutions.  The  Association  sponsored  on-farm
            trials  of vermicompost for three years. Seventy  -two  grape
            vines  were  treated  and  data  on  soil,  yield  etc.   was
            systematically collected. The results were very encouraging.

                 Hemangee advised the grape growers to adopt the  concept
            and  prepare vermicompost in a small portion of their  farms.
            However the latter wanted her to prepare compost for them, as
            they  did not have the time. It was perhaps around this  time
            that  Hemangee and Abhay decided to set up an enterprise  for
            manufacture of vermicompost.

              Technological Package :

                  Vermicompost has a triple action on the soil:
              (i)   it improves the physical structure of the soil
              (ii)  it  improves the biological properties of  the  soil
              ( enrichment of micro-organisms, addition of growth hormones
              such  as auxins and gibrellic acid, addition of enzymes  such
              as phosphates, cellulase etc.) and
              (iii)  attraction  of  deep  burrowing  earthworms   already
              present in  the soil.

                  The  triple -action results in a host of  inter-related
            benefits  to  the  soil,  such  as  improved  plant  nutrient
            availability,  better water -holding capacity,  better  water
            infiltration,  soil  -erosion  control,  improved   aeration,
            improved  organic carbon content etc. All these  improvements
            contribute  to  dramatic  improvement  in  soil  health   and
            fertility.   The  crops  grown  on  these  soils  are  as   a
            consequence healthy too. They are naturally more resistant to
            disease and pests .Food produced in this way is wholesome and
            nutritious.

                 Over the years Hemangee studied the earthworm population
            of  various  soils  and found most  soils  (even  saline  and
            alkaline ones) had their own stock of earthworms. Hence there
            was  no need to introduce earthworms from  outside.  (Besides
            attempts to introduce earthworms exogenously had resulted  in
            failure on account of high mortality rates and  inability  of
            the  worms to adjust to the changed environment. Addition  of
            vermicompost activated the local earthworms and gave them the
            chance to improve their activity.

                  The  Jambhekhars caution  that vermicompost should  not
            be seen as a substitute for external chemical inputs.  Rather
            it should be viewed as one component in a wholistic  approach
            to  farming.  In  order to communicate this  message  to  the
            farmers in Maharashtra in a better way, they have coined  the
            four  "Gas" (four Gs) viz. (i) Ganndul (earthworm ) (ii)  Gai
            (cow)  (iii)  Gavat (grasses ,herbs and  weeds)  (iv)  Ganesh
            (local deity).

                  The   significance   of  cow  in   traditional   Indian
            agriculture  is well known. Some grape farmers are  known  to
            control  mealy  bugs in their crops by  spraying    1%  urine
            solution,  every  fifteen  days  .Cow  urine  is  added   for
            composting  of  lignitious  material  along  with  cow  dung.
            (Buffalo dung may also be used, but according to Hemangee cow
            dung is better.)

                  Conventional  farming  discourages grasses  and  weeds,
            although intercropping with legumes is not looked down  upon.
            The  practice of intercropping should be revived and  grasses
            should  be encouraged. This will confer the twin benefits  of
            improved  organic  carbon  along  with  other  nutrients  and
            mulching  of  soil  resulting  in  soil  and  soil-  moisture
            conservation.  Grasses  save the the soil  from  extremes  of
            temprature and moisture. (Excess moisture is known to  create
            disease problems).

                  Lord  Ganesh is chosen as a symbol of  nature.  Farmers
            are  exhorted to work closely with nature and  adopt  natural
            practices.  Lord  Ganesh  has  a  very  strong  following  in
            Maharashtra  and is considered  the "vigna harta" or one  who
            delivers  man  from  all  kinds  of  difficulties.  This   Ga
            emphasises the right attitude needed for sustainable farming.

                  The extension efforts of the Jambhekhars have begun  to
            make an impact. Some of the  grape farmers are now  beginning
            to  see the advantages of allowing grasses to grow  in  their
            fields.  Sugarcane  farmers have started  intercropping  with
            crops like sesbania, soyabean, stylo etc.

             Surface versus deep Burrowing Earthworm technology

                  While  Uday Bhawalkar, founder - director of  Bhawalkar
            Earthworm  Research  Institute,  also  in  Pune,is   actively
            promoting  "in  situ"  composting  with  the  help  of   deep
            borrowing  earthworms,  Hemangee has opted  for  the  surface
            variety. Her  main arguments are summarised :
              (i)  Deep  varieties  do  not take  active  part  in  humus
            formation.  Their  feed consists of 90% soil  and  10%  nearly
            degraded organic matter. On the other hand the feed of surface
            varieties  consists of 90% fresh organic matter and only  10%
            soil. Their excreta is rich in humus.
              (ii)  Deep varieties cannot survive in the  environment  of
            rapidly  decomposing organic matter while  surface  varieties
            thrive in such environments.

                  Hemangee  got her sample earthworms from University  of
            Agricultural  Sciences,Hebbal,Bangalore.  The species she  is
            currently  using  is   Eisenia foetida ,  an  exotic  species
            introduced from California.

                  Hemangee's argument is for promotion of "humus formers"
            rather  than "humus feeders" --as is being done by  Bhawalkar
            and colleagues.

            The Vermicompost Enterprise :

                  Abhay  was a member of a partnership firm which was  in
            the electronics business. With the backing of this group, the
            Jambhekhars  set up another partnership  concern  exclusively
            for  wormicompost business. It was registered as  Maharashtra
            Agricultural Bioteks, with head office in Pune.  Subsequently
            another  firm "Parashar Biotecks Private Ltd." was set up  to
            take care of the expanding business in Gujarat state  (mostly
            Surat district). The private  limited firm was preferable  to
            a  partnership firm on account of better tax benefits.  (This
            factor however has once again tilted in favour of partnership
            firm in the recently declared Union Budget.)

            Creating a Market:

                   Hemangee recalls that in creating the market, "concept
            selling"  had to take precdence over "product selling".  Once
            again they decided to approach farmers directly. The  contact
            with sugarcane farmers was established at the annual  meeting
            of  the Deccan Sugarcane Growers' Federation, where they  had
            distributed  some literature on vermicomposting.  Immediately
            after   this  meeting,  Mr.Kishore  Desai  of  Sayan    Sugar
            Cooperative   brought a group of 120 farmers to  visit  their
            farm. The farmers decided to devote 50 acres of their land to
            the vermicomposting method of farming during the first  year.
            At the end of the year the yield in these plots had increased
            from between 10 - 15  tons/acre. More interestingly there was
            a  0.6% increase in sugar recovery rate.  Furthermore,  plots
            suffering from waterlogging and salinity were also benefited.
            The  salinity  level  came  down  from  1  mmhos/cm  to  0.36
            mmhos/cm.  The  following year the cooperative  expanded  the
            area under the new technology to 500 acres.

                  News  about Sayan Cooperative's sucess began to  spread
            through   farmers'   informal  networks.   Soon   the   Sugar
            Cooperatives at Chalthan and Bardoli approached Hemangee with
            requests  for  supply of vermicompost. Recently  the  company
            successfully  processed  an order of 1200  tons  for  Gujarat
            sugar cooperatives.

                  It  is interesting to note that even as the  volume  of
            transactions increased, Hemangee did not give up hr tradition
            of experimentation. A visit by Dr.Gowarikar, chairman , Dept.
            of  Science  and Tchnology, launched her into  a  project  to
            promote  vermicompost technology in the rest of the  country.
            The problem of root wilt in coconut in Kerala state was taken
            up for study and experimentation. This problem is  associated
            with  low  organic matter content in  soil.  (Coastal  saline
            soils  are typically low in organic matter). After 18  months
            of  treatment with vermicompost the colour of the  leaves  of
            affected plants is changing. The experiment is planned for  a
            period  of  three  years.  Hemangee  was  delighted  to  find
            earthworm  activity  even in sea-water conditions.  The  fact
            that  earthworms  are  marine animals that  have  adopted  to
            inland conditions   provided the impetus for the  experiment.
            Such  experiments  enable the company to explore  new  market
            potentials and widen the scope of the technology.

                  The  sucess  at concept and product selling had  to  be
            backed  up  simultaneously with a reliable  production  unit.
            Here again there were no prototypes to follow. Production was
            started  on a small scale of 1 ton/ month behind a cow  shed.
            After  a  short while this was shifted to the premises  of  a
            pommegranade  farmer  who gave them three acres  of  land  on
            rental  basis.  The rent was linked to  the  sales  turnover.
            Within  a short period of time the land owner was earning  an
            unreasonably  high  rent! Realising their mistake  the  green
            entrepreneurs  decided to shift their  production  facilities
            This  time the rent was fixed for a period of three years  at
            the  rate of Rs. 10,000/ acre and a deed was signed  to  that
            effect.

                  Production has now stabilised at around 200 tons/ acre.
            However fluctuations in ordered quantities can be dealt  with
            by  simply  increasing or decreasing the  number  of  compost
            beds.  Labor is hired on a daily wage  basis at a rate of  Rs
            50/day. This adds to the flexibility of production  facility.
            Both Hemangee and Abhay supervise the production activity. In
            case  of  a  large order (such as thee 1200  ton  order  from
            Gujarat ), their partners provide the necessary support.

                  Production activities can be summarised as follows:
             (i)  Procurement of cow -dung, leaf -litter,  waste  organic
            matter, cow -urine etc.is organised.
             (ii)  Waste  material is passed through a  mechanical  sieve
            especially designed to remove non - biodegradable  components
            such as glass, plastic etc.
             (iii) The clean material is laid on top of existing beds   -
            2  ft.  high.  The dimension of beds is  about  10m.  by  1m.
            Earthworms  usually  burrow into the soil  once  the  organic
            matter  is decomposed and emerge again when the new  pile  is
            laid out.
             (iv)  Beds are shaded in order to conserve  moisture.  Water
            may be sprinkled from time to time as and when required.
             (v)  Technical parameters such as C:N ratio,  available  and
            total  N,  moisture content and humus  content  are  monitored
            throughout  the  30  day period  of  decomposition.  Soon  an
            analytical facility will be established at the field itself -
            with financial backing of the Grape Growers' Association.
             (vi)  The  decomposed material is put together in  a  common
            pile.  The microbial activity and the heat generated by  this
            activity in the common  pile ensures that any material  left
            undecomposed by the earthworms is taken care of.
             (vii)  The  vermicompost is now packed in bags of  50  Kg.
            each.  The  product is branded as "Bio - Fert".  The  storage
            life  is  estimated  to be two months  .Hence  production  is
            started only after receiving firm orders.

                  Two main problems being faced in the business are those
            related to transport and quality.
             Quality :  The standards of quality are still in the process
            of  being evolved. Until this is done there is a chance  that
            unscrupulous  elements will enter the business and give it  a
            bad  name, there-by shaking the confidence of farmers in  the
            technology.  Quality is also affected  during  storage.  More
            studies are needed to assess the nutrient losses and  changes
            in microbial population during storage.

             Transport  :  Transport is a problem because of both,  bulky
            nature of the product as well as short shelf - life.  Ideally
            the  technology should be decentralised and put in the  hands
            of  the  farmers. It is towards this end  that  Hemangee  now
            finds herself working.

            Future Directions :

                  Hemangee's  philosophical  orientation as well  as  her
            perception  of the needs of the industry have led her to  get
            involved in training projects for farmers. In Goa she trained
            fifty  farmers.  One of the farmers there makes 100  tons  of
            vermicompost per year for his 50 acres of grape farm.  Within
            a  space of six years his yield has increased from 10  to  14
            tons/acre.  The C:N ratio has come down from 15 to 10,  which
            is considered the optimum for humus formation. The quality of
            grapes  produced is so high that well- wishers pray  that  it
            will  not be affected by the evil eye ("Najar na  Lag  Jay").
            About 30% of the output is exported to England as organically
            produced  fruit,  at an average price of Rs 50/  Kg.  (During
            Christmas  time the price realised was Rs./100/Kg.)  Hemangee
            believes   that 80% of the grape and  pommegranade  exporters
            depend on vermicultiure.

                 The  present thrust on extension activity is  likely  to
            increase in intensity with Hemangee devoting more of her time
            to it. A video film is being planned under the DST project. A
            Research  and  Training Institute for Organic Farming  is  in
            the process of being formed. Such an institute will also make
            use  of traditional knowledge by studying  traditional  texts
            such  as "Krushi Parashar" and " Krushi  Samhita".  Parashar,
            the  pioneer  of traditional agriculture in  India  has  also
            written  on  earthworms. For knowledge about cow  urine,  the
            institute  will  work closely with  aruvedic  veds  (medicine
            men).  Horse urine is also useful. It is not  commonly  known
            that the first growth promoting hormones were extracted  from
            horse urine.

                  As  the  vermicompost  technology  diffuses  to  farmer
            level,  the nature of enterprise is also expected to  change.
            After  about  5 - 10 years Parashar Biotecks and  her  sister
            concern are likely to concentrate on breeding and selling  of
            earthworms.  Consultancy and selling of knowledge for  bio  -
            waste  management  may  be another area of  growth.  A  sugar
            factory  in  Nagar district is interested  in  utilising  its
            baggase  and pressmud (PMC).  Distilleries are also  keen  on
            utilising  spent  wash, a waste product  of  their  industry.
            These  factories will be charged fees on a commercial  basis.
            It  is  likely that Abhay and his partners may  take  greater
            charge of the enterprise level activity as Hemangee gets more
            involved with research and extension.

                     - end -

-- 
--
steved@ncatfyv.uark.edu

From hazbro@biddeford.comMon May  6 17:55:51 1996
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 1995 21:00:33 -0500 (EST)
From: "T. Chuck Hazzard, JD" <hazbro@biddeford.com>
Reply to: compost@listproc.wsu.edu
To: compost@listproc.wsu.edu
Subject: Whoops on the worm resource list

Hello again: THe worm URL is:

http://www.biddeford.com/~hazbro/hl/worm.html

So much for being quick on the ^X

o cHaz o
From hazbro@mstf.orgMon May  6 17:56:03 1996
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 16:01:15 -0500 (EST)
From: "T. Chuck Hazzard" <hazbro@mstf.org>
Reply to: compost@listproc.wsu.edu
To: Compost <compost@listproc.wsu.edu>
Subject: My Worm Page URL

Hello: I have re-arranged my web pages including the link to my 
web resource list. I will maintain both locations for the short 
term. But please update your bookmark to point to the new 
location at:

http://www.mstf.org/~hazbro/hl/worm.html

This will save on a little typing. :-)

Enjoy ~ cHaz

TC Hazzard
Maine Science & Technology Foundation
hazbro@mstf.org
http://www.mstf.org/~hazbro/

From bbowman@julian.uwo.caMon May  6 17:56:14 1996
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 1996 21:03:44 -0800
From: "Bruce T. Bowman" <bbowman@julian.uwo.ca>
To: sustag-public@amani.ces.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: Earthworms

At our web site, we have a FAQ on earthworms, as well as an "Earthworm 
BBS" to which you may submit your questions, and receive a reply from one 
of many ecologists which monitor the BBS from around the world.

There are several info packages for download, and several others that you 
can request to be sent to you.

Our URL is:

Pest Management Research Centre, Agriculture & Agri-Food Canada
http://res.agr.ca/lond/pmrc/pmrchome.html

On the Home Page, Select FAQs, then the Earthworm FAQ from the next page.

Good Luck
From AGSIEVEFB.parti@parti.inforum.orgMon May  6 17:53:51 1996
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 95 15:15:02 -0500
From: AGSIEVEFB.parti@parti.inforum.org
To: SANET-MG@CES.NCSU.EDU
Subject: INTERNATIONAL AG-SIEVE (VOL VII, 1)

***********************************************************
INTERNATIONAL AG-SIEVE  Volume VII, number 1   (SOIL FAUNA)
***********************************************************


-  Searching for the Suitable Soil  

-  Book Reviews:        From Garbage to Garden
                        Raising Worms for Bait



Below are some more rough articles which will be included in the next issue 
(Vol VII, 1) of the International Ag-Sieve. The purpose of this electronic 
version of the newsletter is to send out the soon-to-be-printed articles to 
you, the reader, in the hope that you will respond and comment on the contents.

Please send your suggestions to:

Agsievefb.inbox@parti.inforum.org

Once comments are read, stylistic changes are made according to suggestions, 
and some individual remarks will be added to the printed version under our 
Readers React column. I hope you enjoy this up-coming issue, and I look forward

to your reactions.


Sincerely,

Roger Bairstow
Communications Manager
Rodale Research Institute

                                           
---------------------------------------------------------------------

Searching for the Suitable Soil   

A high level of endemism and limited ability for colonization are attributes 
which give many earthworm species a narrow geographical distribution. Most 
"native" species also have minimal tolerance for disturbance. All in all, this 
makes the introduction of foreign species to certain agricultural lands 
difficult. 

Scientist at ORSTOM have been studying techniques aimed at stimulating 
earthworm activities within the soil. Together, with the Ecology Institute of 
Mexico, Peru's INIAA/NCSU Yurimaguas Experimental Station, the University of 
Rwanda and the Spain's Universidad Complutense, they have completed the first 
stage of their macrofauna project.  The project's purpose was to: 1) identify 
native and peregrine (wandering) species of endogeic earthworms which can live 
in cultivated soils with low-input annual crops; 2) quantify earthworms' 
demographic parameters and their short-term effect on soil texture, soil 
organic matter and nutrient release; and 3) evaluate during six successive 
cropping cycles the effects of earthworms on plant production and parameters of

soil fertility. Their research has identified those earthworm species which 
have the ability to withstand disturbances and perform their role as a soil 
ameliorator.

Methodologies

Field experiments were conducted in small, 0.28 to 1.5 m2 experimental units 
isolated with nylon mesh or plastic sheets. These units were randomly treated 
"with" or "without" earthworms and three different residue management systems: 
1) no incorporation of crop residues; 2) incorporation of stubble mulch; and 3)

stubble mulch + legume green manure. These units were distributed within 400 to

600 m2 plots divided into blocks.

Identification of tolerant species

Native and exotic species were selected from a compiled database of 176 
species and 60 communities from the tropical America (six countries) and Africa

(two countries) for their potential to adapt to annual crop conditions. More 
peregrine species, as opposed to native endemic species, were selected.  
Selection criteria were:

%       tolerance of varying environmental conditions;
%       time elapsed since the original ecosystem was disturbed;
%       the type of agricultural practices applied to the area.

A comprehensive analysis of the demographic parameters of 14 tropical 
earthworm species identified 3 types. Native species from Western Africa 
(Lamto, Cte d'Ivoire) were found to have extended generation times (15-42 
months), low fecundity rates (1.3-10.7 cocoons/adult/year) and long life 
expectancies (3-12 months). Peregrine endogeic Pontoscolex corethrurus and 
Polypheretima elongata had short generation times (3-4 months) and high 
fecundity rates (35-100 cocoons). While native species from India had 
intermediate demographic profiles.

Short-term effects on the Soil

Earthworms released significant amounts of mineral nitrogen and assimilable 
phosphorus in their fresh casts. The amount of nutrients found in casts was 
related to the mineralization rates in the original soil and the earthworm 
species. The highest concentration of mineral-N (1095 mg/kg) was found in casts

of Pontoscolex corethrurus in an andosol of Martinique. The lowest 
concentration (24 mg/kg) was measured in casts of Millsonia anomala in a  
ferric acrisol in Cte d'Ivoire. 

In the sandy soil at Lamto, Ivory Coast, mineral-N levels had dropped down to 
control levels after eight days.  In an ultisol at Yurimaguas, Peru, mineral-N 
concentrations were significantly higher in casts than in a control soil after 
16 days of incubation. Concentration of assimilable P was 50% greater in fresh 
casts of Polypheretima elongata fed with a vertisol, than in the control soil. 
Based on these results, the annual production of mineral-N in fresh casts of a 
population of Pontoscolex corethrurus in a tropical pasture was estimated at 
50-100 kg/ha/year.

Settlement of introduced populations

Low densities of selected earthworm species were introduced in low input 
cropping systems at Lamto, Cte d'Ivoire; La Mancha, Mexico and Yurimaguas, 
Peru to test their effects on soil fertility in the field. After 5 cropping 
cycles (i.e. two years) at Lamto, biomass of the native Millsonia anomala was 
limited to a few grams fresh weight/m2 in the experimental units due to the low

nutritive quality of the soil. At Yurimaguas, earthworm biomass was sustained 
at a much higher level (40g fresh weight on the average, with peak values of 
>80 g) at harvests 2 and 3 in treatments receiving an application of legume 
green manure. At the 5th harvest, biomass was significantly lower in the "no 
organic input" treatment than in treatments with crop residues and legume green

manure.

Earthworms significantly affected soil structure. At Lamto and Yurimaguas, 
earthworms increased soil macroaggregates and bulk density while infiltration 
rates slightly decreased. N-depletion was somewhat delayed and the structure of

soil organic matter (SOM) into particle size fractions was modified. After five

crops at Lamto, more coarse organic matter in treatments with earthworms was 
found. Microbial activities were also modified. N-mineralization rates were 
higher during the early phases. At the fifth harvest, less nitrate was released

in soil from "with earthworm" treatments but microbial biomass was 10-40% 
larger.

Plant production was significantly increased in 10 out of the 20 cropping 
cycles observed at the three sites. At Lamto, soil was too poor to sustain a 
sizeable earthworm population. Biomass decreased by a few grams/m2 at the third

cropping cycle. The effect on grain production was low (10-20%) and limited to 
the first crop. At La Mancha, the biomass of P. corethrurus was 21-27g in 
treatments with organic inputs and 10-12g in treatments without mulch. At 
Yurimaguas, where the soil was relatively more fertile, the average earthworm 
biomass for the first five cropping cycles was lower in the treatment with no 
organic inputs (biomass of 30g fresh weight/m2 ), as compared to the treatment 
with application of stubble mulch (40g) and the treatments with stubble + 
legume green manure (50g).  Grain production at Yurimaguas was much higher with

average increases of 145% in a continuous maize crop fertilized after the 3rd 
harvest (-5% to +350% depending on the cropping cycle). In the traditional low 
input rotation (-43-78%) the grain yield was 36%.

Conclusion

This study clearly pointed at the selective advantage of peregrine species for 
use in arable systems. Their tolerance for a wide range of environmental 
conditions, parthenogenetic reproduction and fast population turnovers make 
them suitable for colonization purposes. Pontoscolex corethrurust  is the most 
commonly found earthworm, but Polypheretima elongata  is another widely 
distributed species with high potential for manipulations.

The introduction of earthworms into traditional low-input systems is 
promising. Whenever sizeable earthworm populations have been created from the 
original inoculum, significant increases of production were observed. It is yet

too early to know how sustainable introduced earthworm systems are. However, as

some farmers abandon their cropland after two or three cropping cycles (e.g. at

Yurimaguas), the introduction of earthworms which result in high increases of 
production at that stage may be a good technique. As ORSTOM's director Patrick 
Lavelle states, the key research issue is now to determine practices where 
earthworms will be maintained at a critical level of biomass, estimated at 
30-40 g fresh weight m2 of soil. 

Based on the preliminary results of this study, research on earthworm 
production techniques needs to address four critical issues:

%       production of large quantities of earthworms for colonization;
%       spatial and temporal colonization patterns of earthworms in arable 
land;
%       comparative effects of earthworms on different species, grown in 
different soil types;
%       improvement of earthworm activities through the use of low quality 
organic wastes   which are not used normally in farming systems (sawdust, coir,

coffee wastes, etc.)

This study demonstrates the potential earthworm colonization can have on 
arable lands, but also the need for more information. ORSTOM has started the 
second phase of their macrofauna project which is intent on answering some of 
these new questions.

Summary Report, Conservation of Soil Fertility in Low-Input Agricultural 
Systems of the Humid Tropics By Manipulating Earthworm Communities (MacroFauna 
Project), ORSTOM

Contact:

P. Lavelle, Centre ORSTOM de Bondy, Laboratoire des Sols Tropicaux, 72 route 
d'Aulnay, 93143 - Bondy Cedex, France   Tel: 33 1 48 02 55 01   Fax:  33 1 48 
47 30 88



------------------------------------------------------------------------

BOOK REVIEWS:



>From the Garbage to the Garden

Prostomium, putrefaction, setae, toxoplasmosis and enchytraeids are just some 
of the words used frequently by earthworm experts. Many times however, they are

words that can confuse and discourage a number of people from becoming involved

in vermicomposting. If you want to know what earthworms to use, or how many 
earthworms you need to process x amount of waste, then read Mary Appelhof's 
book, "Worms Eat My Garbage". As interest in vermicomposting has grown, so has 
the importance of this book.  It presents an easy-to-follow process of creating

your own earthworm composting system.

Even in its tenth printing, this book is hardly outdated.  The book describes 
the world of worms, the materials needed for your vermiculture project, and 
continuously informs readers about the earthworms' relationship with soil 
quality. Types of worm beddings, container size, temperature and labor 
requirements and reproduction rates are some of the many relevant topics 
covered. The book's simple approach to vermicomposting allows readers to 
understand the basics and begin experimenting with their own composting system.

Included in this book are a useful glossary, a metric conversion sheet, a 
personal record sheet for your own project, bibliographical references and 
sources for further exploration into earthworm cultivation and composting. For 
the earthworm novice, there is no better place to begin.

As Mary Appelhof explains, vermicomposting is a relatively simple process and 
easily understood after a few basic principles and techniques are explained. 
Upon reading her book, a reader can become the worm expert and composting 
aficionado that he or she has always wished to be.


Appelhoff, Mary, Worms Eat My Garbage, Flower Press, c. 1982, pp.100, $8.95.


To Order:       Flowerfield Enterprises, 10332 Shaver Rd., Kalamazoo, MI 49002 
 
                Tel: (616) 327-0108




Raising Worms for Bait

        
With only a minimal initial investment and a little work, anyone can start a 
profit-making worm business, according to Earl B. Shields, author of "Raising 
Earthworms for Profit".  For those interested in raising earthworms to be sold 
as bait or to be used in making vermicompost, this and other handbooks can help

make the venture easy and enjoyable.

"Raising Earthworms for Profit" is a comprehensive guide which details each 
step involved in creating either a small- or large-scale earthworm-raising 
enterprise.  The guide begins by explaining the different kinds of earthworms 
available, the expected number of earthworms after a year of breeding and the 
benefits resulting from the worms' ability to build soil with a high organic 
matter content.  It also shows how rabbit raisers can combine their endeavor 
with worm breeding, as worms are useful in processing rabbit droppings into 
rich vermicompost.

Planning the earthworm project, building indoor and outdoor bins, feeding, 
protecting worms from their natural enemies, harvesting, packaging and shipping

worms, and necessary supplies for the operation are all discussed in detail. 
Drawings, photographs and diagrams complement the text and enhance the reader's

level of understanding. The final section gives an annotated list of useful 
books for further reading.  For those who want to begin a profit-making 
earthworm project, this guide provides a solid base covering major aspects of 
the operation.


Shields, Earl.  1994 (Nineteenth Edition).  Raising Earthworms for Profit.  
Shields Publications, 128 pages, $7.00.

        
The following handbooks are also useful for those with an interest in 
earthworms:
 
"Earthworm Buyer's Guide 1994-95" - 

This guide provides a listing of earthworm hatcheries in the USA and Canada.  
Readers receive a state-by-state listing of suppliers and information on where 
to buy bedding, bin, packaging and other supplies. Shields, Robert F.  1994.  
Earthworm Buyer's Guide.  Shields Publications, 63 pages, $5.00.
        
"Raising the African Night Crawler or Tropical Giant Worm"- 

Raising this type of bait, which is known for its ability to withstand extreme 
heat, can be easy and profitable.  The guide provides specific information on 
bins, bedding, feeds and feeding, harvesting, packing and shipping, and selling

the nightcrawlers. Morgan, Charlie.  1970.  Raising the African Night Crawler 
or Giant Tropical Worm.  Shields Publications, 53 pages $5.00.


To Order:       Shields Publications, P.O.Box 669, Eagle River, Wisconsin 54521
                Tel: (715) 479-4810



/\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\.
The International Ag-Sieve is a bimonthly collection of gleanings of the 
latest and most applicable information in the field of sustainable agriculture 
in the Tropics. Written for people working in the field in the developing 
world, the Ag-Sieve contains the technical information that the scientific 
community needs and the practical information the field worker can use, but 
does not require a Ph.D. or a dictionary to understand.

We link the work of the major agricultural centers, the insights of the 
farmer, the experience of the multidisciplinary development team, and the 
individual researcher into an eight page newsletter that highlights 
breakthroughs in sustainable agriculture. 

Our audience functions as an Information Exchange Network. Readers contribute 
information to the newsletter and also benefit from our reader information 
service.
Recent thematic issues cover the latest in tropical forest products, training 
opportunities, seeds, biodiversity, urban gardening and vegetable systems, 
women in agriculture, and agroforestry.
 
For those interested in hard copies write to:

International Ag-Sieve, Rodale Institute, 611 Siegfriedale Road, Kutztown, PA 
19530  Fax: 215/683-8548

or contact:

agsievefb.inbox@parti.inforum.org

From steved@sunSITE.unc.eduMon May  6 17:54:02 1996
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 1995 18:35:25 -0600 (CST)
From: Steve Diver <steved@sunSITE.unc.edu>
To: Steve Diver <steved@sunSITE.unc.edu>
Cc: Alice Beetz <aliceb@sunSITE.unc.edu>
Subject: Earthworm Pubs listed in CSAS News

> Subject:      Jan-Feb CSAS Newsletter
> To: sanet-mg@ces.ncsu.edu
> 
>                    January-February 1995 CSAS Newsletter
> 
> 
> Earthworm pubs: "Worms Eat My Garbage," by Mary Appelhoff, c.
> 1982, $8.95, Flowerfield Enterprises, 10332 Shaver Rd.,
> Kalamazoo, MI 49002, 616-327-0108; describes the world of worms,
> the materials needed for your vermiculture project, and
> continuously informs readers about the earthworms' relationship
> with soil quality. Worm Digest, quarterly newsletter about worms
> and worm composting, $4.50/yr., Worm Digest, Box 544, Eugene, OR
> 97440-9998. The following are available from Shields
> Publications, POB 669, Eagle River, WI 54521, 715-479-4810:
> "Raising Earthworms for Profit" by Earl Shields, 1994, $7, for
> those interested in raising earthworms to be sold as bait or to
> be used in making vermicompost, this is a comprehensive guide
> which details each step involved in creating either a small- or
> large-scale earthworm-raising enterprise; "Earthworm Buyer's
> Guide 1994-95," $5, provides a listing of earthworm hatcheries in
> the USA and Canada; "Raising the African Night Crawler or
> Tropical Giant Worm," by Charlie Morgan, 1970, $5, provides
> specific information on bins, bedding, feeds and feeding,
> harvesting, packing and shipping, and selling the nightcrawlers.
 
 
--
steved@ncatfyv.uark.edu

From lynx@eagle.cc.ukans.eduMon May  6 17:54:16 1996
Date: Sat, 3 Jun 95 16:03 CDT
From: Anonymous Lynx Account <lynx@eagle.cc.ukans.edu>
To: steved@ncatfyv.uark.edu
Subject: gvcathom.htm


                           VERMI COMPOSTING AT HOME
                                       
  INSTRUCTIONS FOR VERMI COMPOSTING RECYCLER & RAISING EARTHWORMS
  
   
   
   These instructions are included with our worm bins and live worms.
   They are reproduced here to help out those with a serious interest in
   worms.
   
    CONGRATULATIONS!
    
      You have taken a giant step towards helping yourself and the world
      recycle its organic wastes. By recycling wastes mother natures way, you
      are putting the most beneficial possible ecological forces to work on all
      of our behalfs. No need to worry about it working, recycling organic
      wastes into plant food via worms is a time tested technology, now many
      millions of years old. In the agricultural world it is known as Vermi
      Composting.
      
      These instructions are for the single or double bin, the following simple
      guidelines will help you use your recycler to help convert your organic
      wastes into the worlds greatest plant food, castings. The castings can be
      used to feed any type of plant at any stage of its life; from seeds to
      giant trees..
      
      Click here to return to Green Hut Home Page. Click on any of the
      following items to see more:
      
          + Bedding
          + Vermiculture In Bins
          + Materials To Vermi Compost 
          + What Not To Vermi Compost 
          + Feeding the worms 
          + Temperature 
          + Atmospheric Humidity
          + Casting Cycle
          + Worm Growth 
          + Harvesting Castings 
          + Castings 
          + Using Castings
          + Top Dressing
          + History
          + Specialized Information
   
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
      Bedding
      
   Bedding material for startup and future re-starts can be; Canadian
   peat moss (US peat is too tough & stringy), yard clippings, animal
   manure, (not fresh), dead leaves, wood shavings, newspaper (torn up
   and soaked in water).
   
   Garden and yard clippings should have "aged" beyond the green stage.
   Any moistened organic material can be used for bedding. Look around,
   there is usually plenty nearby, inside or outside of your house. Just
   use your imagination.
   
   The bedding and worm food (organic wastes) should be kept damp, almost
   wet. When you first place the worms into their new home, (their
   bedding) they will burrow into the bedding in a short time, 5 to 15
   minutes. They may arrive in a clump and may clump from time to time in
   your bin. This is nothing to worry about. They will still go about the
   business of recycling your wastes, reproducing and producing castings
   as expected.
   
      Vermiculture In Bins
      
   These instructions are for either the single or double bin. Now,
   getting down to it, the following simple guidelines will help you use
   your recycler featuring Lumbricus rubellus worms to help convert your
   organic wastes to the worlds greatest plant food, castings. The
   castings can be used to feed any type of plant at any stage of its
   life; from seeds to giant trees.
   
   Bedding: Bedding material for startup and future re-starts can be;
   Canadian peat moss (US peat is too tough & stringy), yard clippings,
   dead leaves, wood shavings, newspaper (torn up and soaked in water).
   Garden clippings should have "aged" beyond the green stage. Any
   moistened organic material can be used for bedding. Look around, there
   is usually plenty nearby, inside or outside of your house. Just use
   your imagination. The bedding and worm food (organic wastes) should be
   kept damp, almost wet.
   
   When you first place the worms into their new home, (their bedding)
   they will burrow into the bedding in a short time, 5 to 15 minutes.
   They may arrive in a lump and may clump from time to time in your bin.
   This is nothing to worry about. They will still go about the business
   of recycling your wastes as expected. Their desire for large family
   meetings is nothing to be concerned about.
   
   Double bins: Follow above bedding instructions but remove the top bin
   first. Put the bedding into the bottom, (main) bin. Put the top bin
   back into the bottom bin when the castings have reached a point that
   they can touch the bottom of the top bin with only a small amount of
   compression. Then feed the Wiggles family by placing the food into the
   top bin.
   
   The family will work their way up into the top bin, and by the time it
   is full of castings, harvesting of the castings in the bottom bin will
   be extremely easy. Just dump those castings into whatever container
   you will use for castings storage or put the castings to use
   immediately. Then dump the material, including the worms, from the top
   bin into the bottom bin. Leave the top bin aside and continue to
   recycle normally.
   
      Materials To Vermi Compost
      
   Your little recyclers can be fed all forms of food waste, animal
   waste, (yes, dog & other pet droppings too), yard & garden waste,
   paper, cardboard too wet to recycle otherwise, (plant and root
   material are OK but not too much dirt),etc.
   
   Don't worry about how nasty some waste matter may seem to be, worms
   have strange tastes. In fact, they are at their highest level of
   activity, consuming and procreating with glee when recycling cow
   manure or sewage sludge.
   
      What Not To Vermi Compost
      
   Do not feed the worms; onions, citrus & other acidic foods, metals,
   foils, plastics, chemicals, oils, solvents, insecticides, soaps,
   paint, etc. Also, avoid oleanders and other poisonous plants,(if you
   are unsure about a plant species, ask a nurseryman). All these things
   are toxic to worms. Note; Onions are so bad the earthworms will
   actually crawl away under any horrible conditions to get away from
   them.
   
      Feeding the worms
      
   The worms will need a little help from you in the preparation of some
   of the materials. Be sure the overall mix, (or any individual waste),
   is moist, about like a blueberry muffin or sponge cake. Most food
   waste can be put directly onto the worm bed just as it comes from the
   table. Just scatter it around the top of the bed.
   
   Before feeding, the waste matter can be mixed together or not,
   whichever is easier for you. Avoid soaking or flooding and by all
   means keep the worms out of the rain. They will drown and/or scatter
   all over under rainy or humid conditions. Under conditions of high
   humidity, it is best to place a 40 watt light bulb over the bed to
   prevent fleeing. The earthworms "crawl" whenever the atmospheric
   humidity is high.
   
   Sautéed mushrooms, watermelon and cherries topped with bread, beef,
   herring, candy and banana peels make a scrumptious meal for the
   versatile little creatures. Coffee grounds too, they love the grounds.
   Grinding (via a blender or food processor) or cutting things up to
   1/4" size particles or smaller will speed recycling time by up to 50%.
   Don't bother to bury the waste since they will come up for it, plus,
   it is easier for you to see when it is all recycled, and thus, feeding
   time again. Spread the material around, but not too evenly, leave the
   little recyclers room to "pull back" from the food when they feel like
   it. A loose coat of food up to 2" high is OK.
   
      Temperature
      
   It is best to keep your recycler in the garage, or anywhere else that
   will protect it from high & low temperatures, rain and other inclement
   weather conditions. The worms are at their best in productivity and
   virility between 60 & 70 degrees F. They slow down just as we do when
   it is 99 degrees or 45 degrees in their house. This is not necessarily
   a problem. It may not matter to you whether they finish a banana peel
   in 2 days, 7 days, or 3 weeks. Note: Earthworms will freeze and die if
   the temperature is near or below freezing.
   
   Open the cover of the recycler when it is necessary to feed the clan
   and to provide more ventilation during warm periods of the day. Leave
   the cover off when it is 80 degrees or more inside the recycler bed.
   Don't worry about "escapees", they will burrow down to get out of the
   light since they like the darkness. Nor will they flee at night if
   they are in comfortable conditions. If an occasional stray takes off,
   well, an ingrate is an ingrate. He will soon find out how harsh the
   real world is.
   
      Atmospheric Humidity
      
   It is best to always leave the cover on during periods of high
   humidity, such as when it is raining outside. A small light, (40 W)
   over the cover will keep them contained whether the cover is on or
   off. The light can also serve as a partial heat source during cold
   weather. Increase the wattage as necessary to maintain 60 to 70
   degrees F. in the bed. Leave a light on, (40W minimum), any time you
   are unsure about the humidity. Electricity is less expensive than
   repurchasing worms.
   
      Castings Cycle
      
   In single bins, try not to let the castings accumulate beyond 90% full
   point since there will be too little ventilation inside. The speed of
   recycling waste matter to castings is a function of the total weight
   of the worms, their comfort level, (temperature & moisture), vs. the
   amount of matter to recycle.
   
   By reducing the size of the waste particles, the recycling time will
   be reduced substantially. Generally speaking, 2 lbs. of worms will
   recycle 1 lb. of organic waste in 24 hours. In absolutely ideal
   conditions of comfort and ground up, moist food, they will recycle
   their own weight in wastes every 24 hours.
   
   Note: You may not want to feed them much wood, twigs, sawdust, etc.
   Those things will require a long time to break down. Grass clippings,
   leaves and such are fine. Again, remember the moisture requirements.
   
      Worm Growth
      
   The more matter you wish to recycle the more worms you need. There are
   two ways to increase the size of the herd. The first is by letting
   nature take its course and they may double in overall weight
   approximately every 12 weeks. If you do the arithmetic for a 2 year
   period, you find that the herd can grow at an astounding rate. A 1 lb.
   starter pack can expand to approx. 21 lbs. That will be a combination
   of count and individual growth.
   
   The second way to add to the herd is to purchase additional Lumbricus
   rubellus species of worms. Order directly from us. 
   
      Harvesting Castings 
      
   If you have a single bin recycler, follow these instructions. When
   your single bin recycler has filled about half to two thirds full of
   nice, dark castings it is time to harvest them out. This is a simple
   process; just put scoops of the castings into an old household
   strainer or colander,(with holes 1/4" to 3/16" dia.), and strain out
   the castings. You will want to catch them in a plastic or metal
   container for ease of further handling. As you go along, dump each
   strainer of earthworms into a separate container until you are done
   harvesting. After taking all the castings out of the recycler, dump
   the herd back into the bin, along with some new bedding and "food",
   (any handy wastes).
   
   An easier way is to scoop off the top 6" of material for re-use since
   it will contain most of the worms, eggs, etc. What is left is
   castings, ready to make all of your plants flourish. If a few worms,
   egg capsules, etc., wind up in your plants, don't worry, they can only
   do good things.
   
   If you have a double bin setup, harvesting is simplicity itself; just
   remove the top bin, put the castings from the bottom bin into a
   storage container or directly to use as a plant food or soil
   amendment. Then put some fresh bedding into the bottom bin and start
   feeding again.
   
      Castings
      
   Castings are the droppings produced by the worms as a result of the
   recycling process taking place inside the worms intestines. Castings
   are the best soil amendment known to man compared to any other natural
   or man made fertilizer or plant food. They do not have an offensive
   smell, in fact they resemble a fresh, rich planting soil, which is
   just what they are.
   
   Castings contain beneficial bacteria and these will go to work
   breaking down the nutrients in the dead organic material around the
   roots of your plants. The earth worms intestines are one of the best
   sterilizers in all of nature. On this point, if you wish to be certain
   of the sterility of the castings, they can be heated in an oven in a
   metal container to 200 degrees F. until completely dry. Any lingering
   germs and weed seeds will have been killed. Sterilization via heat is
   recommended if you are going to use the castings on food plants. There
   is a bit of controversy on this point in the agricultural world. By
   sterilizing the castings the beneficial bacteria are also killed.
   There is no pat answer, just use your judgment.
   
      Using Castings
      
   For Potting; The castings can be mixed with any general purpose
   potting soil in the ratio of 1/4 castings to 3/4 potting soil. The mix
   can be used to plant anything at all in, from seeds to started plants
   to flowers, to trees. They will not burn even the most delicate of
   seeds and plants. When plants are transplanted into this mix they show
   almost no transplant shock. Do not use any other plant food for
   approximately six to eight weeks after planting anything in a castings
   mix. When the time comes to feed the plants again, use castings as a
   top dressing.
   
      Top Dressing
      
   Castings can be used as a plant food by putting one quarter inch to
   one half inch thick top dressings on your plants, lawn and garden
   about every six weeks. You will be surprised at the vigor, growth and
   health the plants derive from the castings. Do not go over one half
   inch since it would only be wasteful, it isn't necessary. Castings
   help the soil retain water thereby reducing the amount of watering
   needed. For accurate changeover of watering schedules, monitor the
   plants' soil for moisture by whatever method you have been using and
   water when they need it.
   
   If you use castings continuously, the need for insecticides will be
   reduced substantially. Vigorous, healthy plants are able to shake off
   the effects of most insects. That doesn't mean you should be any less
   vigilant, its just that you will end up using 50% to 85% less
   insecticide than you are used to.
   
      History
      
   The first known recorded results of earthworms effectiveness was in
   Egypt about five thousand years ago, the historic fertility of the
   Nile basin was due to the huge presence of earthworms. Aristotle was
   the first to point out the importance of earthworms to the earth's
   ecology & to man. Many years later, Charles Darwin spent 25 years
   researching earthworms and confirmed Aristotle's writings.
   
   Today there are earthworm "writings" in every agricultural university
   library and major public library, as well as Vermi Composting projects
   all over the world. Check under agricultural and horticultural
   listings.
   
      Specialized Information
      
   For specialized applications contact us directly. If you need to
   recycle small or large amounts of any organic waste, any single
   residential or commercial component such as manure, bread, fat, grass,
   food waste, leaves, tree cuttings, sewage sludge, waste paper fibers,
   etc., we can help. We have instructions, equipment, and management
   plans available for the most efficient and economical methods of Vermi
   Composting any volume of any type of organic waste.
   
      GOOD RECYCLING, GOOD GROWING & GOOD LUCK!
      
      Go to The Catalog or return to Green Hut Home Page
        ____________________________________________________________________
      
      
      
      
    Copyright 1995 Green Hut
    
      
      
      
      
      
    Produced by Net Sales, LLC netsales@cts.com
    
      
      
      
      
      
    1719 Tacoma Lane, Vista, CA 92084 USA
    
      
      
      
      
      
    orders (800) 388-7800
    
      
      
      
      
      
    phone (619) 631-2890
    
      
      
      
      
      
    fax (619) 631-1687
From lynx@eagle.cc.ukans.eduMon May  6 17:54:30 1996
Date: Sat, 10 Jun 95 17:32 CDT
From: Anonymous Lynx Account <lynx@eagle.cc.ukans.edu>
To: steved@ncatfyv.uark.edu
Subject: Worm-Composting


                         WORM COMPOSTING

What?     Worm composting is the easiest way to recycle food
          wastes:  Allow the worms to do all the work with no pile
          turning, no smell, and fast compost production.

Why?      Compost with worms to avoid the needless disposal of
          vegetative food wastes and to enjoy the benefits of a
          high quality compost product for your houseplants and
          gardens.

Where?    You can compost in many different containers, so long as
          they are about the right size for your household (more
          below).  So long as the bin doesn't freeze, it can be
          kept anywhere that is convenient.  (At our office, we
          even keep worm bins in file cabinets where they are easy
          to access yet out of the way!) Other people keep their
          bins in the kitchen, the workroom, or the basement.

How?      All you need to do is find the proper bin, fill it with
          worms and bedding, and then regularly bury your food
          wastes.  Cover the bin and the worms will do the rest.

When?     Unlike other forms of composting, you can compost with
          worms all year round. Why not plan your worm bin now?


The Proper Bin:  A worm composting bin should be shallow and wide
instead of narrow and deep to allow you to bury your food in many
different places.   Ideally, a bin should be about 8 to 12 inches
deep.  How large your bin should be depends on how much vegetative
food waste your household produces.

     A one- or two-person household will need about four square
feet of area to bury food in, and a three- to six-person household
might need six square feet or more.  If you want to be more exact
in choosing the size of your worm box, the general rule is to allow
one square foot of surface area for each pound of vegetative food
wastes produced per week.  (Of course, you can also use more than
one small bin.)

     Now that you have figured out how large your box should be,
you will undoubtedly find many containers to be suitable for your
bin.  Metal washtubs,  plastic utility boxes, and wooden boxes are
all good containers for worm composting.

     Many people construct their own boxes using exterior grade
plywood (exterior grade protects against rotting).  If you prefer,
you may also buy bins exclusively designed for worm composting.
(See the reference section.)

The Proper Bedding:  Now that you have chosen your bin, you need to
fill it with a bedding in which the worms will live and in which
you will bury your food wastes.  This bedding is generally paper
based and will eventually be converted into compost along with the
buried food waste.

     Shredded corrugated cardboard or shredded computer paper is an
ideal medium and hand shredded newspaper also works well.  Inks on
these papers are generally carbon-based and the worms will happily
eat them along with the paper bedding.

Getting Your Worms:  In order for your worm composting to be a
successful venture, you have to be sure that you are using redworms
(Eisenia foetida).  Redworms reproduce quickly, don't mind being
bothered too much, and process large amounts of organic material.
These worms will move through the compost bin, eating the compost
and keeping it full of oxygen.  This movement prevents the smelly
conditions that can arise when compost is not aerated.

     Other worms, such as nightcrawlers, need more room in which to
thrive, or cannot live in conditions where they are constantly
being bothered.  The easiest way to be sure that you are receiving
the correct worms is to buy them from a worm farm or bait shop.  In
the reference section of this fact sheet are several listings for
worm farms that will mail worms to you directly at good prices.

     Again, how many worms you need depends entirely on how much
waste you produce.  One good thing, though, is that worms will
multiply or die off according to how much waste you bury.
Therefore, even if you don't have the perfect amount of worms at
the beginning, after several months the worm population will adjust
to the proper size.  However, it is good to try to get fairly close
to the correct number of worms to start with: too few worms might
cause an odor problem and too many worms would be a waste of money.

     The general rule of buying worms is buy one pounds of worms
for every three to four pounds of garbage to be buried each week.
(If the worms are sold by the number, there are about 1000 worms in
a pound.)  For a one- or two-person household, this will probably
be 1-1« pounds of worms; for a three- to six-person household, 2-2«
pounds.

Setting up Your Box:  Now you have your bin, your bedding, and your
worms, and are ready to get started.  First, fill your bin with dry
bedding.  Now add enough water so that all the bedding is wet, but
not so that puddles form at the bottom of the bin.  The bin should
always be at this level of intermediate moisture.  (Again, if you
want to be scientific, add three pints of water for every pound of
bedding.  To make a hospitable environment for the worms, the
bedding should always have roughly a 75% moisture content.

     Later, if you notice your bedding getting too dry, try
spraying it lightly to re-moisten.  If you are using a plastic bin,
you may find your bedding getting too moist; please call a RISWMC
staff person at 831-4440 to discuss special management techniques
for plastic bins.)

     Add one or two handfuls of soil along with the bedding.
(Often, the soil the worms are packaged in is enough.)  Continue to
add bedding and water until you have about eight inches of wet but
fluffed up bedding in your bin.  Now you are ready to add the
worms.  Spread the worms out on top of your bin as best you can and
leave the room lights on for a few minutes.  The worms, not liking
the light, will move down into the bedding.  Cover the bedding with
a loose fitting cover or a layer of plastic and your worm bin is
ready to process your food wastes.

Burying Your Food Wastes:  It is a good idea to bury your food
wastes daily, so no smell can build up in your compost collection
container.  Cycle your wastes around the box so you are always
burying next to where you buried the day previously, but so that
every part of the box gets waste buried in it.  The worms will
follow the waste around the compost bin and keep it aerated and
odor free.

     Worms will eat any vegetable waste you produce within your
household.  It is generally not a good idea to bury meat products
because they cause odor and may attract mice and rats.  Excessively
oily foods, such as large quantities of oil or mayonnaise are also
not good foods to bury.  With these small exclusions, basically
anything goes.  You can bury potato peels, tea bags, coffee grounds
and filters, pasta, potato salad, spoiled foods, banana peels, etc.

     So long as you are burying vegetable waste, the only thing
that you can do wrong is to bury too much waste in the worm bin.
If you do this, the food will sit around uneaten and build up a
smell.  As stated earlier, eventually the worms will multiply and
eat this extra food, but the interim might be unpleasant!

Removing the Finished Compost Product:  Within four to six months,
most of the paper bedding and the food wastes will have been
converted into a finished compost product, which is uniformly dark
and soil-like.  You are now ready to remove the compost and use it
in your yard, garden, or houseplants.

     There are several ways to remove the compost product.  The
first way is to move the material to one side of the bin, and then
add fresh bedding to the empty side.  Begin feeding the worms on
the empty side only, and within a month or so they will migrate
over.  At this point, you may remove the compost.  Then fill the
empty side with fresh compost.  This is a very clean and easy way
to harvest compost, the drawback being that you lose a few worms.

     Another way to harvest your compost requires sorting.  If you
dump your compost into a pile, you can sort out worms into one pile
and your finished compost into another.  This process can be made
easier by using a very bright light.  The worms, averse to the
light, will move down into the compost giving you a worm-free layer
of compost to harvest on top.  You can continue this process until
you have nothing but worms and a little bit of compost left in your
original pile.  You might also want to divide the larger pile up
into several small piles; shine the light on one pile at a time,
brushing the compost off as the worms travel down to the bottom of
each pile.

     Some people just like to use what is in their bin as compost,
worms and all, and start fresh with new worms.  The drawback to
this approach is of course the cost of buying new redworms every
six months or so.

     Which ever method you choose to harvest and use your compost
product, you will find it to be a rich and valuable soil additive.

Compatibility with Outside Composting:  Some people like to put
their food scraps into an outside composting bin during the warmer
months, and use worm composting only during the winter.  You can
maintain your worm bin minimally over the summer by feeding the
worms just a little (although the population will decline), and
then slowly start up again in the fall (gradually building the
population again).

Auxiliary Bin:  After trying vermicomposting for awhile, you may
decide to set up another bin that is maintained minimally (by
feeding less often) and then used in times of increased food waste
generation, such as for holidays, parties, house guests, or
canning.  You can keep your main bin in a convenient place, such as
the kitchen, and store the auxiliary bin out of the way until it is
needed.

Best Temperature:  Don't put your worm bin outside!  Although they
can survive in temperatures ranging from 50 to 80 degrees F, worms
process food most rapidly at household temperatures.  Also, if
placed outside, other critters could disturb them.  There are some
techniques for keeping your worm bin outside, but they require
special care; if you are interested in trying this consult Worms
Eat My Garbage for instructions.

Vacations:  You can leave your worms for up to two weeks, but if
you go away longer, you may want to "board" your worms.  Who knows,
you could convert your friends or neighbors to vermicomposting!
Also, when leaving home during cold months, make sure that the
house doesn't get colder than about 50 degrees F.

Fruit Flies:  The only problem you are likely to encounter with
your worm bin is a fruit-fly infestation--especially in the warmer
months.  To prevent this from occurring, add food gradually and
bury within the pile.  Take immediate action if you spot fruit
flies; they are voracious reproducers, and if there are one or two
at first, there will soon be many more!  Cut a piece of foam so
that it fits the dimensions of your box.  Place it over your
bedding.  The friut flies will not be able to fly up (and out) and
will fall back into the bedding and die.

Another weapon against fruit flies is a package of parasitic
nematodes.  These are microscopic insects that enter fruit-fly
larvae and release bacteria which will kill the larvae within a few
days.

Nematodes are harmless to worms, and will only attack insects that
spend at least part of their lives in or on the surface of soil.
We have found the Hb strain of parasitic nematodes to be very
effective.  They are shipped immersed in a small sponge which is
soaked in warm water and then applied to your worm bedding.  (Fresh
bedding may be required to absorb the extra moisture.)  A package
of 5 million is generally effective for a standard-sized worm bin.
Please see Reference section for where to buy nematodes.

                            REFERENCE

Ordering Worms:

Beaver River Associates, Josh Nelson, P.O. Box 94, West Kingston,
RI 02892, 401-782-8747; Worms are $28/2 lbs., $10 each additional
lb.  Also sells pre-made wooden bins (see below).

Cape Cod Worm Farm, 30 Center Ave., Buzzards Bay, MA 02532, 508-
759-5664; Maggie and Lamar Pipkins; $14/lb. of worms (2,000);
company does not fill orders when ground is frozen (approximately
from Christmas to mid-March), but does develop a priority list for
fulfillment based on first-come, first-served, so order early to
receive shipment soon after thaw.

Commonwealth Wormery, P.O. Box N122, Westport, MA 02790, 508-636-
8981 (evenings); make checks payable to Wendy Henderson; $10/1b. of
worms, includes shipping; expect shipment within 1-4 weeks.

Many gardening-supply catalogues offer redworms for sale by mail.

Pre-made Bins:

Beaver River Associates, Josh Nelson, 401-782-8747 (address above).
Sells a well-designed wooden bin with convenient cover for $35;
sized for family of 3-4 (24x18x12"); $55 for bin with two pounds of
worms and instructions if picked up in W. Kingston, or $65 if
shipped.

Set Point, Chick Renfrew, 31 Oxford Road, Mansfield, MA 02048, 508-
339-9300.  Offers plastic bins designed by Mary Appelhof in a
variety of sizes. Worms Eat My Garbage offered with bin.
Check gardening and environmental specialty catalogues for pre-made
bins.

Parasitic Nematodes (to control fruit flies):

Gardens Alive!  5100 Schenley Place, Lawrenceburg, IN 47025, 812-
537-8650. A mail-order catalog which specializes in organic
gardening products.  We've used the Hb strain of nematodes, but the
names sometimes change, so consult with a customer-service person.
Prices (1993-94): Pkg. of 5 million: $12.50; pkg. of 10 million:
$18.95.

More Information:

Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Appelhof: The definitive text on worm
composting.  A must-read if you are serious about composting with
worms.  Find a copy at a library or bookstore or order by sending
$8.95 + $1.50 shipping to Flowerfield Enterprises, 10332 Shaver
Road, Kalamazoo MI 49002; (616) 327-0108.  ALSO, RISWMC offers
short-term loans to Rhode Islanders; call 401-831-4440 for details.

Worms Eat Our Garbage: Classroom Activities for a Better
Environment: For grades 4-8+  $19.95 + $2 shipping, available
directly from Flowerfield Enterprises.

Rhode Island Solid Waste Management Corporation: (401) 831-4440.
Will provide various plans (Mary Appelhof's designs) for
constructing wooden worm boxes; offers Worms Eat My Garbage;
experienced vermi-composters can answer specific questions about
worm composting; will provide limited quantities of shredded office
paper for bedding.

U.R.I. Gardening Hotline: 1-800-448-1011.  Will answer specific
questions about worm composting.

.

From steved@sunSITE.unc.eduMon May  6 17:54:42 1996
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 08:25:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: Steve Diver <steved@sunSITE.unc.edu>
To: compost@listproc.wsu.edu
Cc: Steve Diver <steved@sunSITE.unc.edu>
Subject: Worm-Composting info from gopher://osfn.rhilnet.gov/00/RI/

Forwarded message:
X-within-URL:gopher://osfn.rhilinet.gov/00/RI/GOVT/SOLID/Worm%20Composting
Subject:Worm-Composting


                         WORM COMPOSTING

What?     Worm composting is the easiest way to recycle food
          wastes:  Allow the worms to do all the work with no pile
          turning, no smell, and fast compost production.

Why?      Compost with worms to avoid the needless disposal of
          vegetative food wastes and to enjoy the benefits of a
          high quality compost product for your houseplants and
          gardens.

Where?    You can compost in many different containers, so long as
          they are about the right size for your household (more
          below).  So long as the bin doesn't freeze, it can be
          kept anywhere that is convenient.  (At our office, we
          even keep worm bins in file cabinets where they are easy
          to access yet out of the way!) Other people keep their
          bins in the kitchen, the workroom, or the basement.

How?      All you need to do is find the proper bin, fill it with
          worms and bedding, and then regularly bury your food
          wastes.  Cover the bin and the worms will do the rest.

When?     Unlike other forms of composting, you can compost with
          worms all year round. Why not plan your worm bin now?


The Proper Bin:  A worm composting bin should be shallow and wide
instead of narrow and deep to allow you to bury your food in many
different places.   Ideally, a bin should be about 8 to 12 inches
deep.  How large your bin should be depends on how much vegetative
food waste your household produces.

     A one- or two-person household will need about four square
feet of area to bury food in, and a three- to six-person household
might need six square feet or more.  If you want to be more exact
in choosing the size of your worm box, the general rule is to allow
one square foot of surface area for each pound of vegetative food
wastes produced per week.  (Of course, you can also use more than
one small bin.)

     Now that you have figured out how large your box should be,
you will undoubtedly find many containers to be suitable for your
bin.  Metal washtubs,  plastic utility boxes, and wooden boxes are
all good containers for worm composting.

     Many people construct their own boxes using exterior grade
plywood (exterior grade protects against rotting).  If you prefer,
you may also buy bins exclusively designed for worm composting.
(See the reference section.)

The Proper Bedding:  Now that you have chosen your bin, you need to
fill it with a bedding in which the worms will live and in which
you will bury your food wastes.  This bedding is generally paper
based and will eventually be converted into compost along with the
buried food waste.

     Shredded corrugated cardboard or shredded computer paper is an
ideal medium and hand shredded newspaper also works well.  Inks on
these papers are generally carbon-based and the worms will happily
eat them along with the paper bedding.

Getting Your Worms:  In order for your worm composting to be a
successful venture, you have to be sure that you are using redworms
(Eisenia foetida).  Redworms reproduce quickly, don't mind being
bothered too much, and process large amounts of organic material.
These worms will move through the compost bin, eating the compost
and keeping it full of oxygen.  This movement prevents the smelly
conditions that can arise when compost is not aerated.

     Other worms, such as nightcrawlers, need more room in which to
thrive, or cannot live in conditions where they are constantly
being bothered.  The easiest way to be sure that you are receiving
the correct worms is to buy them from a worm farm or bait shop.  In
the reference section of this fact sheet are several listings for
worm farms that will mail worms to you directly at good prices.

     Again, how many worms you need depends entirely on how much
waste you produce.  One good thing, though, is that worms will
multiply or die off according to how much waste you bury.
Therefore, even if you don't have the perfect amount of worms at
the beginning, after several months the worm population will adjust
to the proper size.  However, it is good to try to get fairly close
to the correct number of worms to start with: too few worms might
cause an odor problem and too many worms would be a waste of money.

     The general rule of buying worms is buy one pounds of worms
for every three to four pounds of garbage to be buried each week.
(If the worms are sold by the number, there are about 1000 worms in
a pound.)  For a one- or two-person household, this will probably
be 1-1« pounds of worms; for a three- to six-person household, 2-2«
pounds.

Setting up Your Box:  Now you have your bin, your bedding, and your
worms, and are ready to get started.  First, fill your bin with dry
bedding.  Now add enough water so that all the bedding is wet, but
not so that puddles form at the bottom of the bin.  The bin should
always be at this level of intermediate moisture.  (Again, if you
want to be scientific, add three pints of water for every pound of
bedding.  To make a hospitable environment for the worms, the
bedding should always have roughly a 75% moisture content.

     Later, if you notice your bedding getting too dry, try
spraying it lightly to re-moisten.  If you are using a plastic bin,
you may find your bedding getting too moist; please call a RISWMC
staff person at 831-4440 to discuss special management techniques
for plastic bins.)

     Add one or two handfuls of soil along with the bedding.
(Often, the soil the worms are packaged in is enough.)  Continue to
add bedding and water until you have about eight inches of wet but
fluffed up bedding in your bin.  Now you are ready to add the
worms.  Spread the worms out on top of your bin as best you can and
leave the room lights on for a few minutes.  The worms, not liking
the light, will move down into the bedding.  Cover the bedding with
a loose fitting cover or a layer of plastic and your worm bin is
ready to process your food wastes.

Burying Your Food Wastes:  It is a good idea to bury your food
wastes daily, so no smell can build up in your compost collection
container.  Cycle your wastes around the box so you are always
burying next to where you buried the day previously, but so that
every part of the box gets waste buried in it.  The worms will
follow the waste around the compost bin and keep it aerated and
odor free.

     Worms will eat any vegetable waste you produce within your
household.  It is generally not a good idea to bury meat products
because they cause odor and may attract mice and rats.  Excessively
oily foods, such as large quantities of oil or mayonnaise are also
not good foods to bury.  With these small exclusions, basically
anything goes.  You can bury potato peels, tea bags, coffee grounds
and filters, pasta, potato salad, spoiled foods, banana peels, etc.

     So long as you are burying vegetable waste, the only thing
that you can do wrong is to bury too much waste in the worm bin.
If you do this, the food will sit around uneaten and build up a
smell.  As stated earlier, eventually the worms will multiply and
eat this extra food, but the interim might be unpleasant!

Removing the Finished Compost Product:  Within four to six months,
most of the paper bedding and the food wastes will have been
converted into a finished compost product, which is uniformly dark
and soil-like.  You are now ready to remove the compost and use it
in your yard, garden, or houseplants.

     There are several ways to remove the compost product.  The
first way is to move the material to one side of the bin, and then
add fresh bedding to the empty side.  Begin feeding the worms on
the empty side only, and within a month or so they will migrate
over.  At this point, you may remove the compost.  Then fill the
empty side with fresh compost.  This is a very clean and easy way
to harvest compost, the drawback being that you lose a few worms.

     Another way to harvest your compost requires sorting.  If you
dump your compost into a pile, you can sort out worms into one pile
and your finished compost into another.  This process can be made
easier by using a very bright light.  The worms, averse to the
light, will move down into the compost giving you a worm-free layer
of compost to harvest on top.  You can continue this process until
you have nothing but worms and a little bit of compost left in your
original pile.  You might also want to divide the larger pile up
into several small piles; shine the light on one pile at a time,
brushing the compost off as the worms travel down to the bottom of
each pile.

     Some people just like to use what is in their bin as compost,
worms and all, and start fresh with new worms.  The drawback to
this approach is of course the cost of buying new redworms every
six months or so.

     Which ever method you choose to harvest and use your compost
product, you will find it to be a rich and valuable soil additive.

Compatibility with Outside Composting:  Some people like to put
their food scraps into an outside composting bin during the warmer
months, and use worm composting only during the winter.  You can
maintain your worm bin minimally over the summer by feeding the
worms just a little (although the population will decline), and
then slowly start up again in the fall (gradually building the
population again).

Auxiliary Bin:  After trying vermicomposting for awhile, you may
decide to set up another bin that is maintained minimally (by
feeding less often) and then used in times of increased food waste
generation, such as for holidays, parties, house guests, or
canning.  You can keep your main bin in a convenient place, such as
the kitchen, and store the auxiliary bin out of the way until it is
needed.

Best Temperature:  Don't put your worm bin outside!  Although they
can survive in temperatures ranging from 50 to 80 degrees F, worms
process food most rapidly at household temperatures.  Also, if
placed outside, other critters could disturb them.  There are some
techniques for keeping your worm bin outside, but they require
special care; if you are interested in trying this consult Worms
Eat My Garbage for instructions.

Vacations:  You can leave your worms for up to two weeks, but if
you go away longer, you may want to "board" your worms.  Who knows,
you could convert your friends or neighbors to vermicomposting!
Also, when leaving home during cold months, make sure that the
house doesn't get colder than about 50 degrees F.

Fruit Flies:  The only problem you are likely to encounter with
your worm bin is a fruit-fly infestation--especially in the warmer
months.  To prevent this from occurring, add food gradually and
bury within the pile.  Take immediate action if you spot fruit
flies; they are voracious reproducers, and if there are one or two
at first, there will soon be many more!  Cut a piece of foam so
that it fits the dimensions of your box.  Place it over your
bedding.  The friut flies will not be able to fly up (and out) and
will fall back into the bedding and die.

Another weapon against fruit flies is a package of parasitic
nematodes.  These are microscopic insects that enter fruit-fly
larvae and release bacteria which will kill the larvae within a few
days.

Nematodes are harmless to worms, and will only attack insects that
spend at least part of their lives in or on the surface of soil.
We have found the Hb strain of parasitic nematodes to be very
effective.  They are shipped immersed in a small sponge which is
soaked in warm water and then applied to your worm bedding.  (Fresh
bedding may be required to absorb the extra moisture.)  A package
of 5 million is generally effective for a standard-sized worm bin.
Please see Reference section for where to buy nematodes.

                            REFERENCE

Ordering Worms:

Beaver River Associates, Josh Nelson, P.O. Box 94, West Kingston,
RI 02892, 401-782-8747; Worms are $28/2 lbs., $10 each additional
lb.  Also sells pre-made wooden bins (see below).

Cape Cod Worm Farm, 30 Center Ave., Buzzards Bay, MA 02532, 508-
759-5664; Maggie and Lamar Pipkins; $14/lb. of worms (2,000);
company does not fill orders when ground is frozen (approximately
from Christmas to mid-March), but does develop a priority list for
fulfillment based on first-come, first-served, so order early to
receive shipment soon after thaw.

Commonwealth Wormery, P.O. Box N122, Westport, MA 02790, 508-636-
8981 (evenings); make checks payable to Wendy Henderson; $10/1b. of
worms, includes shipping; expect shipment within 1-4 weeks.

Many gardening-supply catalogues offer redworms for sale by mail.

Pre-made Bins:

Beaver River Associates, Josh Nelson, 401-782-8747 (address above).
Sells a well-designed wooden bin with convenient cover for $35;
sized for family of 3-4 (24x18x12"); $55 for bin with two pounds of
worms and instructions if picked up in W. Kingston, or $65 if
shipped.

Set Point, Chick Renfrew, 31 Oxford Road, Mansfield, MA 02048, 508-
339-9300.  Offers plastic bins designed by Mary Appelhof in a
variety of sizes. Worms Eat My Garbage offered with bin.
Check gardening and environmental specialty catalogues for pre-made
bins.

Parasitic Nematodes (to control fruit flies):

Gardens Alive!  5100 Schenley Place, Lawrenceburg, IN 47025, 812-
537-8650. A mail-order catalog which specializes in organic
gardening products.  We've used the Hb strain of nematodes, but the
names sometimes change, so consult with a customer-service person.
Prices (1993-94): Pkg. of 5 million: $12.50; pkg. of 10 million:
$18.95.

More Information:

Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Appelhof: The definitive text on worm
composting.  A must-read if you are serious about composting with
worms.  Find a copy at a library or bookstore or order by sending
$8.95 + $1.50 shipping to Flowerfield Enterprises, 10332 Shaver
Road, Kalamazoo MI 49002; (616) 327-0108.  ALSO, RISWMC offers
short-term loans to Rhode Islanders; call 401-831-4440 for details.

Worms Eat Our Garbage: Classroom Activities for a Better
Environment: For grades 4-8+  $19.95 + $2 shipping, available
directly from Flowerfield Enterprises.

Rhode Island Solid Waste Management Corporation: (401) 831-4440.
Will provide various plans (Mary Appelhof's designs) for
constructing wooden worm boxes; offers Worms Eat My Garbage;
experienced vermi-composters can answer specific questions about
worm composting; will provide limited quantities of shredded office
paper for bedding.

U.R.I. Gardening Hotline: 1-800-448-1011.  Will answer specific
questions about worm composting.


From steved@ncatfyv.uark.eduMon May  6 17:54:56 1996
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 08:23:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: Steve Diver <steved@ncatfyv.uark.edu>
Reply to: compost@listproc.wsu.edu
To: compost@listproc.wsu.edu
Cc: Steve Diver <steved@ncatfyv.uark.edu>
Subject: Vermicompost info from www.cts.com/~netsales/greenhut/

Forwarded message:
X-within-URL:http://www.cts.com/~netsales/greenhut/gvcathom.htm
Subject:gvcathom.htm

                           VERMI COMPOSTING AT HOME
                                       
  INSTRUCTIONS FOR VERMI COMPOSTING RECYCLER & RAISING EARTHWORMS
   
   These instructions are included with our worm bins and live worms.
   They are reproduced here to help out those with a serious interest in
   worms.
   
    CONGRATULATIONS!
    
      You have taken a giant step towards helping yourself and the world
      recycle its organic wastes. By recycling wastes mother natures way, you
      are putting the most beneficial possible ecological forces to work on all
      of our behalfs. No need to worry about it working, recycling organic
      wastes into plant food via worms is a time tested technology, now many
      millions of years old. In the agricultural world it is known as Vermi
      Composting.
      
      These instructions are for the single or double bin, the following simple
      guidelines will help you use your recycler to help convert your organic
      wastes into the worlds greatest plant food, castings. The castings can be
      used to feed any type of plant at any stage of its life; from seeds to
      giant trees..
      
      Click here to return to Green Hut Home Page. Click on any of the
      following items to see more:
      
          + Bedding
          + Vermiculture In Bins
          + Materials To Vermi Compost 
          + What Not To Vermi Compost 
          + Feeding the worms 
          + Temperature 
          + Atmospheric Humidity
          + Casting Cycle
          + Worm Growth 
          + Harvesting Castings 
          + Castings 
          + Using Castings
          + Top Dressing
          + History
          + Specialized Information
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
      Bedding
      
   Bedding material for startup and future re-starts can be; Canadian
   peat moss (US peat is too tough & stringy), yard clippings, animal
   manure, (not fresh), dead leaves, wood shavings, newspaper (torn up
   and soaked in water).
   
   Garden and yard clippings should have "aged" beyond the green stage.
   Any moistened organic material can be used for bedding. Look around,
   there is usually plenty nearby, inside or outside of your house. Just
   use your imagination.
   
   The bedding and worm food (organic wastes) should be kept damp, almost
   wet. When you first place the worms into their new home, (their
   bedding) they will burrow into the bedding in a short time, 5 to 15
   minutes. They may arrive in a clump and may clump from time to time in
   your bin. This is nothing to worry about. They will still go about the
   business of recycling your wastes, reproducing and producing castings
   as expected.
   
      Vermiculture In Bins
      
   These instructions are for either the single or double bin. Now,
   getting down to it, the following simple guidelines will help you use
   your recycler featuring Lumbricus rubellus worms to help convert your
   organic wastes to the worlds greatest plant food, castings. The
   castings can be used to feed any type of plant at any stage of its
   life; from seeds to giant trees.
   
   Bedding: Bedding material for startup and future re-starts can be;
   Canadian peat moss (US peat is too tough & stringy), yard clippings,
   dead leaves, wood shavings, newspaper (torn up and soaked in water).
   Garden clippings should have "aged" beyond the green stage. Any
   moistened organic material can be used for bedding. Look around, there
   is usually plenty nearby, inside or outside of your house. Just use
   your imagination. The bedding and worm food (organic wastes) should be
   kept damp, almost wet.
   
   When you first place the worms into their new home, (their bedding)
   they will burrow into the bedding in a short time, 5 to 15 minutes.
   They may arrive in a lump and may clump from time to time in your bin.
   This is nothing to worry about. They will still go about the business
   of recycling your wastes as expected. Their desire for large family
   meetings is nothing to be concerned about.
   
   Double bins: Follow above bedding instructions but remove the top bin
   first. Put the bedding into the bottom, (main) bin. Put the top bin
   back into the bottom bin when the castings have reached a point that
   they can touch the bottom of the top bin with only a small amount of
   compression. Then feed the Wiggles family by placing the food into the
   top bin.
   
   The family will work their way up into the top bin, and by the time it
   is full of castings, harvesting of the castings in the bottom bin will
   be extremely easy. Just dump those castings into whatever container
   you will use for castings storage or put the castings to use
   immediately. Then dump the material, including the worms, from the top
   bin into the bottom bin. Leave the top bin aside and continue to
   recycle normally.
   
      Materials To Vermi Compost
      
   Your little recyclers can be fed all forms of food waste, animal
   waste, (yes, dog & other pet droppings too), yard & garden waste,
   paper, cardboard too wet to recycle otherwise, (plant and root
   material are OK but not too much dirt),etc.
   
   Don't worry about how nasty some waste matter may seem to be, worms
   have strange tastes. In fact, they are at their highest level of
   activity, consuming and procreating with glee when recycling cow
   manure or sewage sludge.
   
      What Not To Vermi Compost
      
   Do not feed the worms; onions, citrus & other acidic foods, metals,
   foils, plastics, chemicals, oils, solvents, insecticides, soaps,
   paint, etc. Also, avoid oleanders and other poisonous plants,(if you
   are unsure about a plant species, ask a nurseryman). All these things
   are toxic to worms. Note; Onions are so bad the earthworms will
   actually crawl away under any horrible conditions to get away from
   them.
   
      Feeding the worms
      
   The worms will need a little help from you in the preparation of some
   of the materials. Be sure the overall mix, (or any individual waste),
   is moist, about like a blueberry muffin or sponge cake. Most food
   waste can be put directly onto the worm bed just as it comes from the
   table. Just scatter it around the top of the bed.
   
   Before feeding, the waste matter can be mixed together or not,
   whichever is easier for you. Avoid soaking or flooding and by all
   means keep the worms out of the rain. They will drown and/or scatter
   all over under rainy or humid conditions. Under conditions of high
   humidity, it is best to place a 40 watt light bulb over the bed to
   prevent fleeing. The earthworms "crawl" whenever the atmospheric
   humidity is high.
   
   Sautéed mushrooms, watermelon and cherries topped with bread, beef,
   herring, candy and banana peels make a scrumptious meal for the
   versatile little creatures. Coffee grounds too, they love the grounds.
   Grinding (via a blender or food processor) or cutting things up to
   1/4" size particles or smaller will speed recycling time by up to 50%.
   Don't bother to bury the waste since they will come up for it, plus,
   it is easier for you to see when it is all recycled, and thus, feeding
   time again. Spread the material around, but not too evenly, leave the
   little recyclers room to "pull back" from the food when they feel like
   it. A loose coat of food up to 2" high is OK.
   
      Temperature
      
   It is best to keep your recycler in the garage, or anywhere else that
   will protect it from high & low temperatures, rain and other inclement
   weather conditions. The worms are at their best in productivity and
   virility between 60 & 70 degrees F. They slow down just as we do when
   it is 99 degrees or 45 degrees in their house. This is not necessarily
   a problem. It may not matter to you whether they finish a banana peel
   in 2 days, 7 days, or 3 weeks. Note: Earthworms will freeze and die if
   the temperature is near or below freezing.
   
   Open the cover of the recycler when it is necessary to feed the clan
   and to provide more ventilation during warm periods of the day. Leave
   the cover off when it is 80 degrees or more inside the recycler bed.
   Don't worry about "escapees", they will burrow down to get out of the
   light since they like the darkness. Nor will they flee at night if
   they are in comfortable conditions. If an occasional stray takes off,
   well, an ingrate is an ingrate. He will soon find out how harsh the
   real world is.
   
      Atmospheric Humidity
      
   It is best to always leave the cover on during periods of high
   humidity, such as when it is raining outside. A small light, (40 W)
   over the cover will keep them contained whether the cover is on or
   off. The light can also serve as a partial heat source during cold
   weather. Increase the wattage as necessary to maintain 60 to 70
   degrees F. in the bed. Leave a light on, (40W minimum), any time you
   are unsure about the humidity. Electricity is less expensive than
   repurchasing worms.
   
      Castings Cycle
      
   In single bins, try not to let the castings accumulate beyond 90% full
   point since there will be too little ventilation inside. The speed of
   recycling waste matter to castings is a function of the total weight
   of the worms, their comfort level, (temperature & moisture), vs. the
   amount of matter to recycle.
   
   By reducing the size of the waste particles, the recycling time will
   be reduced substantially. Generally speaking, 2 lbs. of worms will
   recycle 1 lb. of organic waste in 24 hours. In absolutely ideal
   conditions of comfort and ground up, moist food, they will recycle
   their own weight in wastes every 24 hours.
   
   Note: You may not want to feed them much wood, twigs, sawdust, etc.
   Those things will require a long time to break down. Grass clippings,
   leaves and such are fine. Again, remember the moisture requirements.
   
      Worm Growth
      
   The more matter you wish to recycle the more worms you need. There are
   two ways to increase the size of the herd. The first is by letting
   nature take its course and they may double in overall weight
   approximately every 12 weeks. If you do the arithmetic for a 2 year
   period, you find that the herd can grow at an astounding rate. A 1 lb.
   starter pack can expand to approx. 21 lbs. That will be a combination
   of count and individual growth.
   
   The second way to add to the herd is to purchase additional Lumbricus
   rubellus species of worms. Order directly from us. 
   
      Harvesting Castings 
      
   If you have a single bin recycler, follow these instructions. When
   your single bin recycler has filled about half to two thirds full of
   nice, dark castings it is time to harvest them out. This is a simple
   process; just put scoops of the castings into an old household
   strainer or colander,(with holes 1/4" to 3/16" dia.), and strain out
   the castings. You will want to catch them in a plastic or metal
   container for ease of further handling. As you go along, dump each
   strainer of earthworms into a separate container until you are done
   harvesting. After taking all the castings out of the recycler, dump
   the herd back into the bin, along with some new bedding and "food",
   (any handy wastes).
   
   An easier way is to scoop off the top 6" of material for re-use since
   it will contain most of the worms, eggs, etc. What is left is
   castings, ready to make all of your plants flourish. If a few worms,
   egg capsules, etc., wind up in your plants, don't worry, they can only
   do good things.
   
   If you have a double bin setup, harvesting is simplicity itself; just
   remove the top bin, put the castings from the bottom bin into a
   storage container or directly to use as a plant food or soil
   amendment. Then put some fresh bedding into the bottom bin and start
   feeding again.
   
      Castings
      
   Castings are the droppings produced by the worms as a result of the
   recycling process taking place inside the worms intestines. Castings
   are the best soil amendment known to man compared to any other natural
   or man made fertilizer or plant food. They do not have an offensive
   smell, in fact they resemble a fresh, rich planting soil, which is
   just what they are.
   
   Castings contain beneficial bacteria and these will go to work
   breaking down the nutrients in the dead organic material around the
   roots of your plants. The earth worms intestines are one of the best
   sterilizers in all of nature. On this point, if you wish to be certain
   of the sterility of the castings, they can be heated in an oven in a
   metal container to 200 degrees F. until completely dry. Any lingering
   germs and weed seeds will have been killed. Sterilization via heat is
   recommended if you are going to use the castings on food plants. There
   is a bit of controversy on this point in the agricultural world. By
   sterilizing the castings the beneficial bacteria are also killed.
   There is no pat answer, just use your judgment.
   
      Using Castings
      
   For Potting; The castings can be mixed with any general purpose
   potting soil in the ratio of 1/4 castings to 3/4 potting soil. The mix
   can be used to plant anything at all in, from seeds to started plants
   to flowers, to trees. They will not burn even the most delicate of
   seeds and plants. When plants are transplanted into this mix they show
   almost no transplant shock. Do not use any other plant food for
   approximately six to eight weeks after planting anything in a castings
   mix. When the time comes to feed the plants again, use castings as a
   top dressing.
   
      Top Dressing
      
   Castings can be used as a plant food by putting one quarter inch to
   one half inch thick top dressings on your plants, lawn and garden
   about every six weeks. You will be surprised at the vigor, growth and
   health the plants derive from the castings. Do not go over one half
   inch since it would only be wasteful, it isn't necessary. Castings
   help the soil retain water thereby reducing the amount of watering
   needed. For accurate changeover of watering schedules, monitor the
   plants' soil for moisture by whatever method you have been using and
   water when they need it.
   
   If you use castings continuously, the need for insecticides will be
   reduced substantially. Vigorous, healthy plants are able to shake off
   the effects of most insects. That doesn't mean you should be any less
   vigilant, its just that you will end up using 50% to 85% less
   insecticide than you are used to.
   
      History
      
   The first known recorded results of earthworms effectiveness was in
   Egypt about five thousand years ago, the historic fertility of the
   Nile basin was due to the huge presence of earthworms. Aristotle was
   the first to point out the importance of earthworms to the earth's
   ecology & to man. Many years later, Charles Darwin spent 25 years
   researching earthworms and confirmed Aristotle's writings.
   
   Today there are earthworm "writings" in every agricultural university
   library and major public library, as well as Vermi Composting projects
   all over the world. Check under agricultural and horticultural
   listings.
   
      Specialized Information
      
   For specialized applications contact us directly. If you need to
   recycle small or large amounts of any organic waste, any single
   residential or commercial component such as manure, bread, fat, grass,
   food waste, leaves, tree cuttings, sewage sludge, waste paper fibers,
   etc., we can help. We have instructions, equipment, and management
   plans available for the most efficient and economical methods of Vermi
   Composting any volume of any type of organic waste.
   
      GOOD RECYCLING, GOOD GROWING & GOOD LUCK!
      
      Go to The Catalog or return to Green Hut Home Page
        ____________________________________________________________________
      
    Copyright 1995 Green Hut
    Produced by Net Sales, LLC netsales@cts.com
    1719 Tacoma Lane, Vista, CA 92084 USA
    orders (800) 388-7800
    phone (619) 631-2890
    fax (619) 631-1687

From steved@sunSITE.unc.eduMon May  6 17:55:16 1996
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 1995 15:08:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: Steve Diver <steved@sunSITE.unc.edu>
To: Steve Diver <steved@sunSITE.unc.edu>
Cc: Alice Beetz <aliceb@sunSITE.unc.edu>
Subject: Worm Composting FAQ 

From: "T. Chuck Hazzard, JD" <hazbro@biddeford.com>
To: Chris Savage <csavage@sojourn.com>
Cc: compost@listproc.wsu.edu
Subject: Re: Community Composting Help Sought

On Wed, 25 Oct 1995, Chris Savage wrote:

Hiya!

I am in search of any information that is available regarding 
community composting.

Chris: I would suggest you try a Web search engine. I know that you will 
turn up several references to Vancouver, B.C.'s project ('City Farmer') 
as well as others. Vancouver's Worm COmposting FAQ can be found at:

http://unixg.ubc.ca:780/~cityfarm/wormcomp61.html#wormcompost

Good luck.

o cHaz o

T. Chuck Hazzard
Skunk Hollow
Readfield, ME 04355-0447
http://www.biddeford.com/~hazbro/



From djackson@pps1-po.phyp.uiowa.eduMon May  6 17:55:36 1996
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 95 11:46 CST
From: djackson@pps1-po.phyp.uiowa.edu
To: pestcon@lime.weeg.uiowa.edu, entomo-l@uoguelph.ca
Subject: NEW: ANNELIDA - Annelid Worm Research

    Forwarded from "new list", <new-list@vm1.nodak.edu>:

ANNELIDA on BIOSCI-SERVER@NET.BIO.NET  - Annelid Worm Research

   ANNELIDA is an open unmoderated list discussing the scientific study
   of Phylum Annelida and of other worms with annelid affinities,
   encompassing the polychaetes, the clitellates (oligochaetes and
   leeches), the pogonophora, vestimentifera, sipunculans, and
   echiurids.

   ANNELIDA is expected to draw subscribers mostly from amongst
   ecologists, taxonomists, and other biologists interested in
   biodiversity and the study of terrestrial or aquatic annelids and
   annelidan allies as *whole organisms*.

   To subscribe send the following line in the body of an e-mail to
   biosci-server@net.bio.net  (the server software is 'majordomo').

          subscribe annelida

   Discussion leader: Geoff Read <gread@actrix.gen.nz>

   Annelida resources URL:  http://www.actrix.gen.nz/users/chaeto/index.html

   Owner:  biohelp@net.bio.net


   ---------------------------------------------------------------------
   DISCLAIMER: NEW-LIST announcements are edited from information
   provided by the original submitter.  We do NOT verify the technical
   accuracy nor any claims made in the announcements nor do we
   necessarily agree with them.  We do not warranty or guarantee any
   services which might be announced - use at your own risk.  For more
   information send e-mail to LISTSERV@VM1.NoDak.EDU with the command
   GET NEW-LIST README  in the body.  mgh

   Dave Jackson
   The University of Iowa
    dave-jackson@uiowa.edu
From werner@zzyx.UCSC.EDU Fri Apr  8 11:41:15 1994
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 1994 14:03:07 -0700
From: Mat Werner <werner@zzyx.UCSC.EDU>
To: sanet-mg@oes.orst.edu
Subject: Cuban vermiculture


Hello,

Anyone who is interested in reading my article on Cuban vermiculture, 
how about sending me your address and I'll snail mail a copy to you. (Or 
attempt to instruct me on the use of Crosstalk software to send a WOrd 
file over email.)

Matt Werner
UCSC Agroecology Program
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 1994 13:32:52 -0700
From: Mat Werner <werner@zzyx.UCSC.EDU>

I want to second the explanation that the term hybrid attached to earthworms
is pure hype. The species to use for vermiculture, vermicomposting is
Eisenia foetida, aka the red worm. Anyone who perpetuates the hybrid myth is
causing troubles for others. I recently visited Cuba and the Cubans went to great lengths in the 80's to track down and obtain living specimens of the
supposed "California Red Hybrid". It wasn't until after they got a shipment
from Spain (via Italy, originally from CA) that they realized the worms were
none other than E. foetida. 

I am currently working on a book on the general subject of earthworm 
biology and ecology, and practical applications. 

Matt Werner
UCSC Agroecology Program
Santa Cruz, CA 95064
From richard.hill@24stex.com Tue Oct  4 20:43:17 EDT 1994
Article: 6088 of sci.bio.ecology
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!MathWorks.Com!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!auvm!24stex.com!richard.hill
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Date: Mon, 3 Oct 1994 23:55:00 EDT
Sender: "Ecological Society of America: grants, jobs,
              news" <ECOLOG-L@UMDD.BITNET>
From: richard.hill@24stex.com
Subject: EARTHWORM STUDIES
Lines: 14


Hello.  Recently there was a post related to earthworm studies.  I've deleted
the post, but wonder if the following citation would be of help?  there are
about 60 citations.

Wood, Hulton B. and Samuel W. James.  1993.  Native and introduced earthworms
>from  selected chaparral, woodland, and riparian zones in southern California.
Gen Tech Rep PSW-GTR-142.  Albany, CA: Pacific Southwest Research Station,
Forest Service, US Dept of Agriculture; 20p.

Richard.Hill@24stex.com



------------ End Forwarded Message -------------


From MAILER-DAEMON@umailsrv1.umd.edu Tue Oct  4 20:45:56 EDT 1994
Article: 5987 of sci.bio.ecology
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Date: Wed, 28 Sep 1994 11:19:00 EDT
Sender: "Ecological Society of America: grants, jobs,
              news" <ECOLOG-L@UMDD.BITNET>
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON@umailsrv1.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: earthworms
Lines: 37

One of the main workers in this field is Dr. Geoff Baker at the Div. of
Entomology in Adelaide his full address is:
Dr. Geoff Baker,
Div. of Entomology,
P.M.B. 2
Glen Osmond 5064
South Australia,
Australia

Phone 61-83038469
FAX  61-83038549

He doesn't have e-mail though I am putting the pressure on.

One method of getting earthworm free space that he uses is by usin a core
(PVC, around 400 cm diameter) tube during the dry season when worms go deep
and aestivate, by placing mesh at the bottom of the core tube at this time
it stops the reentry of any earthworms and voila!

Hope this helps, he is a font of knowledge on the subject.

James

Dr. James Coupland                                              Tel. (33)
67593103
CSIRO Biological Control Unit
Campus International de Baillarguet                    Tel. (33) 67593100
Switchboard
Montferrier sur Lez,                                                 Fax
(33) 67599040
34982 France



------------ End Forwarded Message -------------


------------ End Forwarded Message -------------


Tue 20 Jul 93 16:43
By: Tom Ezell
Re: Worm Composting



How to Create Vermicompost

To create your own vermicompost system you must hove the proper
container, bedding, type of worm, and organic waste. The following
instructions will give you some guidelines for the production of a
vermicompost system,

1.)  Containers. Make sure homemade containers have not been made from
pressure treated wood and have never stored any kind of chemicals.
Exterior grade plywood is probably best for durability. Aeration holes
should be placed on the sides of the box, and a lid of some sort should
be used to keep insects and animals out of the bin. The average 1-foot
high, 2-feet deep and 3-feet wide (1'h x 2'd x 3'w) box will handle
about 6 lbs. of garbage per week.

2.)  Bedding. Cellulose-based bedding is recommended because it provides
moisture retention and aeration. As the worms search for food they
tunnel through and consume bedding, replacing it with worm castings. The
perfect bedding mixture for the bin size above is 10 lbs. of shredded
newspaper, a gallon of garden soil, and 4 gallons of water (which makes
this environment about 75% moisture).

3.)  Type of Worm. The required worm for vermicompost is the redworm
(also known as red wigglers or manure worms). These worms ore ideal for
composting because they are able to consume the equivalent of their own
weight each day, can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, and
reproduce well in the environment provided for them in a vermicompost
bin.  For the bin dimensions and amount of bedding described above, the
recommended number of worms to start with is opproximately 1,200 to
2,400 (2 lbs) redworms.

4.) Food Supply. The redworm will consume almost all normal kitchen
scraps. However it is important to avoid putting meat scraps, bones,
and dairy products in the bin as they could produce strong odors and
attract animals.  When just beginning your vermicompost practices, it is
suggested that you start off slowly, giving the worms between 2 or 3
lbs. of garbage per week.

5.) Location of Bin. Worm bins should be located where access to them
is convenient and temperatures are relatively moderate. Bins may be
placed in basements. patios, porches, utility rooms, or even kitchens.


Information Sources for Vermicomposting:

Appelhof, Mary. 'Worms do the Work', Organic Gardening. January
1992, pp. 58-63,
Appelhof, Mary, _ Worms in My Garbage_ , Flower Press, 1982.
Robert Kourik, "As the Worm Turns",  _Garbage_,  January-February 1992,
pp. 48-51


Ordering Information for  Vermicompost Systems and Supplies

Flowerfield Enterprises
10332 Shaver Rood
Kalamazoo, Ml 49002
(616) 327-0108

Smith and Hawken
25  Corte Modera
Mill Volley, CA 94941
(410) 383-2000

Gardeners Supply Co.
128 lntervale Rood
Burlington VT 05401
(800) 955-3370

 * SLMR 2.1a * Math and Alcohol don't mix.  Please don't drink & derive.
 * Origin: Environment Arkansas! Little Rock  501-570-2868 (1:3821/16)

Article 31745 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: More vermicomposting ques
From: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!convex!news.duke.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <36.617.2817.0N429D25@granite.mn.org>
Date: Thu,  5 May 94 00:15:00 +0600
Organization: Granite City Connection St. Cloud MN 612-654-8372
Lines: 64

Subject: More vermicomposting questions

April writes in May:

T>1) I seem to have received a mixture of nightcrawlers and redworms,
 >   instead of all redworms as promised by the company.  Will this
 >   make a huge difference?  I know that they like different kinds
 >   of substrate, but what if I offered them a mixture? (I'm not in the
 >   mood to sort 500 worms now or ever)

I know the feeling April.  One of my mottos is to never count chickens,
hatched or not.

T>2) How much room do I need to provide per worm? (Say, worms/square inch)

Since redworms and nightcrawlers do not live in the same habitat, you
need to place the mixture in an environment where the nightcrawlers
(lumbricus terrestris) can burrow in the native soil below.  Most
nightcrawlers, if they are so old and large that you can tell them from
redworms, will be unable to excavate a new burrow.  They typically grow
a burrow from childhood and live in it all their life, shaving a little
off the sides periodically as they mature.  For an adult worm to create
a new tunnel network when they are fat and lazy is asking a lot.

But it can be done if your soil is soft, there is a good mulch layer
above the soil that is kept undisturbed, and you provide plenty of
moisture.  Placing your mixture into an old compost mixed with peat and
or shredded corrugated is a good mix.  Then place a two inch layer of
wet, fresh, horse manure (make sure not recently de-wormed!) and the red
worms will come up to the top and the nightcrawlers will stay below to
burrow.

T>3) How fresh should the veggies be that I feed to them?

If you are using redworms to cure compost, a process called
vermistabilization, you should compost your table scraps first and feed
the compost to the worms in thin layers when the compost is hot and
active.  If you are looking to have the worms *do it all*, a process
called vermicomposting, then you can add fresh table scraps right to the
worm beds.  You need at least two parts bedding to one part table
scraps, making sure to bury the scraps thoroughly.

You can have upwards of 3,500 worms per cubic foot with a maximum of
7,000.  The minimum is around 500.  Do not feed the worms any more than
they can eat in any given area in more than two weeks.  Stated
otherwise, it takes a pound of worms to eat a pound of daily feed.  Bear
in mind that you will also have to remove a pound per day of old worm
castings too.  This can be done either on a continuous basis from the
bottom of the worm bed or periodically using a batch technique.

I assume that you have Mary Appelhof's book, "Worms Eat My Garbage".....

Most of these answers are in her book.

Lots of luck. It sounds like you are on your way to a successful
earthworm culture.

Mr Compost~~~

Jim~ McNelly
ReSourceNet and GardenNet 612-654-8372, 656-0678 v.32bis
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org
---
 * May 4th - Let me see.... Now how does that twit filter work?


Article 19797 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
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From: nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA)
Subject: Re: Worms (was Re: Bamboo)
Message-ID: <nuferv.25@ohsu.edu>
Sender: news@ohsu.edu
Nntp-Posting-Host: 137.53.56.80
Organization: Oregon Health Sciences University
References: <den0.151.742494167@lehigh.edu> <CA2xGA.Eqo@cs.uiuc.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 21:45:54 GMT
Lines: 34

In article <CA2xGA.Eqo@cs.uiuc.edu> ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes:

>den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) writes:

>>We visted some friends yesterday who had a stand of bamboo.  They asked if 
>>we wanted some, and so we took some home.  My question is, what kind of soil 
>>does bamboo like?  It is tolerant of poor soil?  Also, does it like sun, 
>>shade, or some of both?  And, does it need a lot of water?  

>I know nothing of bamboo, except that it grows indoors in potting soil
>(no direct sun light) at my SO's work.

>>Right now I have it sitting in a pile of worm castings until I 
>>decide where to put it.  We live about 50 miles north of Philadelphia, and
>>our soil is pretty poor except where I've been adding a lot of compost, 
>>manure, and worm castings (I raise worms and have a good bit).

>This is what I'm interested in.  How do you grow worms?  Is there a FAQ
>on this?  Thanks for any info.


>ward

Ward,
I don't know if there is a FAQ on this, but a good reference is 
_Worms Eat My Garbage_ by Mary Appelhoff, Flower Press, 1982.

Places I know of to get the (red)worms themselves include:

Vermicast Products, Richard Matson, Portland, Oregon (503) 226-0816;
Smith Worms, (800) 252-5133 (Georgia); and
The Worm Concern, (805) 496-2872 (California)

-Marsie Nufer (nuferv@ohsu.edu)


Article 19797 of rec.gardens:
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From: nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA)
Subject: Re: Worms (was Re: Bamboo)
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Nntp-Posting-Host: 137.53.56.80
Organization: Oregon Health Sciences University
References: <den0.151.742494167@lehigh.edu> <CA2xGA.Eqo@cs.uiuc.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 21:45:54 GMT
Lines: 34

In article <CA2xGA.Eqo@cs.uiuc.edu> ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes:

>den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) writes:

>>We visted some friends yesterday who had a stand of bamboo.  They asked if 
>>we wanted some, and so we took some home.  My question is, what kind of soil 
>>does bamboo like?  It is tolerant of poor soil?  Also, does it like sun, 
>>shade, or some of both?  And, does it need a lot of water?  

>I know nothing of bamboo, except that it grows indoors in potting soil
>(no direct sun light) at my SO's work.

>>Right now I have it sitting in a pile of worm castings until I 
>>decide where to put it.  We live about 50 miles north of Philadelphia, and
>>our soil is pretty poor except where I've been adding a lot of compost, 
>>manure, and worm castings (I raise worms and have a good bit).

>This is what I'm interested in.  How do you grow worms?  Is there a FAQ
>on this?  Thanks for any info.


>ward

Ward,
I don't know if there is a FAQ on this, but a good reference is 
_Worms Eat My Garbage_ by Mary Appelhoff, Flower Press, 1982.

Places I know of to get the (red)worms themselves include:

Vermicast Products, Richard Matson, Portland, Oregon (503) 226-0816;
Smith Worms, (800) 252-5133 (Georgia); and
The Worm Concern, (805) 496-2872 (California)

-Marsie Nufer (nuferv@ohsu.edu)


Article 27293 of rec.gardens:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.intercon.com!panix!not-for-mail
From: fishman@panix.com (Harvey Fishman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: vermiculture
Date: 2 Mar 1994 20:06:38 -0500
Organization: Flatulent Flatlands Flea Flickers
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <2l3d6u$scq@panix.com>
References: <9402222303.AA29709@im8>
NNTP-Posting-Host: panix.com

In <9402222303.AA29709@im8> dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) says

> In article: <1994Feb22.022710.27757@k12.ucs.umass.edu>
>     jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) asks:
> >I have several students interested in investigating vermiculture.  I have
> >ordered the book "Worms Eat My Garbage", but would like some advise.  Where
> >can I purchase red worms for this purpose?  Would they have them at a bait
> >shop?  Thanks for any help......Jeff
>  
> I was looking for the same information.  Bait shops charge an arm and a 
> leg for worms, too much for amounts used in vermiculture.  I checked out 
> the ads in the back of Organic Gardening and Fine Gardening magazines and 
> found a couple of places in the south which mail order worms in quantity 
> at more reasonable prices.  I decided to wait for warmer weather to 
> order, so my worms won't die in shipment. Now that it's starting to 
> warm up, I've misplaced the addresses so I suppose I'll have to go down 
> to the library and look them up again.
>  
> Good luck on your search.
>  
> If anyone can recommend some worm farms as better than others, I'm sure 
> some of us would like to hear about it.

Speaking without much knowledge of the subject, I note that on page 38 of
the Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co. 1994 Catalogue, there is an offering
of Red Hybrid Worms.  The price is $19.95 for a pack of 500 ($18.95 for 2
or more) or $43.95 for a pack of 2000 ($41.85 for 2 or more).  I do not
know if these are the worms that you seek; they are advertised as "The
natural way to aerate your garden soil!"

	Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co.
	415 North Burnett
	Shenandoah, Iowa 51602

Harvey

--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Harvey Fishman   |            There is no greater failure than
fishman@panix.com |                that of making an enemy.
  718-258-7276    |


                                                                                                                  


Article 26942 of rec.gardens:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.mentorg.com!hpbab33.mentorg.com!rreid!rreid
From: rreid@rreid.mentorg.com (Richard Reid)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: vermiculture
Date: 23 Feb 1994 17:04:31 GMT
Organization: mentor
Lines: 21
Sender: rreid@rreid (Richard Reid)
Distribution: world
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References: <9402222303.AA29709@im8>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rreid.wv.mentorg.com

I started a Worm Box last August and just did my second turn
in replacing the bedding.  I got the worms by calling the local
Recycling Organization-- who in turn gave me the name of a local
worm grower.  We then set up a rondavous.  I know he will also
ship em, or so he said.

	Richard Matson
	VermaCast Products
	103 N.W. Pittock AVE
	Portland, Oregon 97210
	(503) 226 - 0816 

As I remember they where about 12 dollars per pound.


-- 
Rick Reid
rreid@wv.mentorg.com  -- Mentor Graphics Corporation
"I belong to no organized party.  I'm a democrat."
                - Will Rogers



Article 27434 of rec.gardens:
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From: gkiewicz@oeonline.com (Pat & George Kiewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: vermiculture
Message-ID: <46@oeonline.UUCP>
Date: 3 Mar 94 15:14:23 GMT
References: <9402222303.AA29709@im8> <2l3d6u$scq@panix.com>
Sender: coconet@oeonline.UUCP
Lines: 54

[various people ask about sources of worms for vermiculture]

> Speaking without much knowledge of the subject, I note that on page 38 of
> the Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co. 1994 Catalogue, there is an offering
> of Red Hybrid Worms.  The price is $19.95 for a pack of 500 ($18.95 for 2
> or more) or $43.95 for a pack of 2000 ($41.85 for 2 or more).  I do not
> know if these are the worms that you seek; they are advertised as "The
> natural way to aerate your garden soil!"
> 
> 	Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co.
> 	415 North Burnett
> 	Shenandoah, Iowa 51602
> 
> Harvey
> 
> --
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>  Harvey Fishman   |            There is no greater failure than
> fishman@panix.com |                that of making an enemy.
>   718-258-7276    |
> 
> 
>                                                                                                                   
A couple of other sources I can mention:

Gardener's Supply
128 Intervale Rd.
Burlington VT 05401
TEL 1-800-444-6417

'Red Wiggler's' item #2-232
2 pounds $24.95 + S/H

This is the company which supplied MY worms.  They are shipped to you directly
from the 'grower'.  2# should be 2,000+ worms.  The worms were young and thus
easily adjusted to their new home after shipment.  My husband ordered an entire
kit (worms, bin, and Ms. Appelhof's book) as a birthday present for me -- and it
was just what I wanted!!!

Redworms can also be bought through Gardens Alive! (500/$19.95 1,000/$27.95 + S/H)
Henry Fields beats them on the S/H charges.

I've also read that worms can be purchased from Ms. Appelhof's Flowerfield
Enterprise, but I have no idea of the going rate.  TEL (616)327-0108.  


Hope this information proves useful.  I *love* my worm-bin.  
-- 
//Pat Kiewicz\\

gkiewicz@oeonline.com

"Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn."
-- Garrison Keillor


Article 13541 of rec.gardens:
Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly
From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: worm composting
Date: 10 Feb 1993 18:55:33 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Lines: 38
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References: <1CE00001.psqtv5@tbomb.ice.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sandman.caltech.edu

In article <1CE00001.psqtv5@tbomb.ice.com> time@ice.com (Tim Endres) writes:
>Also can anyone tell me how many worms one needs to eat a gallon
>pail of kitchen scraps a day and how much space they need?
>Karen
>karen@ice.com 

The following is advice from the book Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary
Appelhof...

To determine what size of worm bin is best for your household, you
need to figure how many pounds of garbage you produce per day. So
go ahead and weigh out how much you have at the end of the week, and
divide by 7. So if I have 7 pounds of garbage at the end of the week,
that is about a pound of garbage per day, average. 

Mary recommends a ratio of 2:1 for worms:average-garbage-produced-per-day,
so if about 1 pound of garbage is produced per day, you'll need 2 pounds
of worms. She says there are about 2000 bedrun size redworms in a pound.
(Bedrun worms are worms of all sizes, while 'breeders' are large worms
that are handpicked for fishing purposes. Mary recommends the bedruns
since they are cheaper (don't need to be handpicked) and reproduce and
ship as well as the breeders in the long run. She doesn't feel a bin
gets started any quicker if you chose the breeder size worms.)
[That 2:1 ratio means the *total* worms you'll need, not the amount of
worms you'll need to add per day :) ]

Since redworms are surface feeders you'll want a bin with a large
surface area, for the pound of garbage produced per day, a large bin
with about 7 square feet is recommended, or one with dimensions of
about 1' deep by 2' wide by 3' long. Most commercial bins I have seen
advertised are about 24"x20"x12", which just means you'd need two of
them for a large household with lots of trash. I like using multiple
smaller bins, since they are lighter, easier to move when/if full, and
if I accidentally overfeed one, not all my bins are ruined.

Kelly
kelly@cco.caltech.edu



:
>Where can I get the little red worms
>that are supposed to be so good for
>indoor composting?  I tried some
>live bait shops in town and found
>nothing.

The January 1992 issue of Organic Gardening has an article on worms and
composting, "Compost Indoors! Worms Do the Work".  It gives instructions
on building a worm box (although one is available from Gardener's
Supply).  It also tells how to get the box started and what kind of
worms to use.

The correct type are redworms (aka red wiggles or manure worms).  The are
small compared to most earthworms.  Their temperature range is 40 to 90
degrees, whereas, earthworms prefer temperature around 55 degrees.  Earth-
worms also require burrows to breed.  A worm box is too warm and too
small for them...and they tend to escape whenever possible.  Red worms
stay put.

The article is written by Mary Appelhof, author of "Worms Eat My Garbage".
The book is $10.95 including shipping and handling and is available from:
        Flower Press,
        10332 Shaver Road
        Kalamazzo Mi 49002

The list of companies carry supplies:
        Cape Cod Worm Farm
        30 Center Ave
        Buzzards Bay. Ma 02532

        Carter Fishworm Farm
        Plains Georgia 31780

        Early Bird Ecology
        RR1
        Smithville, Ont
        canada L0R 2A0

        Gardener's Supply
        128 Intervale Road
        Burlington, Vt 05401

        Redworms, C/o Ron Clausen
        2111 N. Century Blvd
        McDavid Fl 32568

        Snooks Worm Farm
        Box 14
        Harold Fl 32563

I notice that the Burpee Gardens 1992 catalog has an add for
"Red Hybrid Earthworms".  It says they range from 1/4 to 3"
long.  Are these redworms?  Will hybrid worms breed true to
type?  (Maybe I shouldn't use the term breed, given the way
worms reproduce.)  How do they make a hybrid?  I assume the
idea is to get the worms to reproduce in your compost pile,
as they only send 500 for $19.95!

I one reply I got on worms so far:

>For 2000 bedrun (various sizes where 'breeder' are the larger size.
>According to the book 'worms eat my garbage' the bedrun are recommended since
>they are cheaper, breed just as well, and may survive shipping better)
>redworms, it was 21.00, and with tax that is 22.31 (back in June)

>Are bedrun a variety of redworm or something else?
>Which variety eats the most?  (Oooh you pig worm!)

One response indicated that redworms do well in 40 to 90 deg. F.
earthworms don't do as well.  They also like to escape.

What can we say about bedruns?  (Or again are they a specific
variety of redworm, doing as well with temperatures and
housing conditions.)

>I notice that the Burpee Gardens 1992 catalog has an add for
>"Red Hybrid Earthworms".  It says they range from 1/4 to 3"
>long.  Are these redworms?  Will hybrid worms breed true to
>type?  (Maybe I shouldn't use the term breed, given the way
>worms reproduce.)  How do they make a hybrid?  I assume the
>idea is to get the worms to reproduce in your compost pile,
>as they only send 500 for $19.95!

>Are bedrun a variety of redworm or something else?
There are two different sizes' of worms, in a sense. 
The 'Breeders' are hand selected to be a
certain size, usually around the maximum three inches. The idea is these
are the ones you buy if you want to start breeding worms. Because they
hand select these, they cost more (5 or 10 bucks or so, per 1000) than
'Bedrun' worms. Bedrun means 'mixed sizes, randomly selected'. So if
you saw an ad saying '2000 bedrun Redworms, 19.95 and 2000 'breeder'
redworms , for 25.00' you'd know the difference and why one costs more than
the other.
In the book "Worms Eat My Garbage", the author says that bedrun worms are
fine to buy, since she feels they might survive shipping better, and
adapt more quickly, and she doesn't feel there is any significant reason
to spend the extra money on a 'breeder' worms ...
>Which variety eats the most?
You want the compost worms, red wigglers, redworms, the 'tiny' worms, not
anything called 'earthworms'.
>What can we say about bedruns?  (Or again are they a specific
>variety of redworm, doing as well with temperatures and
>housing conditions.)
Bedrun just describes the size range of the worm you'll be getting. Its a
mixed size range.

Someone who was interested in ordering lots of worms for *fishing* would
be interested in this since he'd want big worms for his hooks and would
probably only order breeders. That's why they have the two different size
choices...

>I have some large pickle or planter crocks about two feet high
>and 18" wide.  I thought of raising worms in these in my basement.
>Is a ceramic crock a good container, or just a waste?

Well, it doesn't 'breathe', its sealed, right? I would say you'd want
something wider, and not quite as 'deep'. It might work, might not, i really
don't know, but if you're serious and have some scrap wood lying around,
then go for making the worm boxes described in the January issue of Organic
Gardening, or the '1-2-3' worm box (which is just a box that is one foot
deep, two feet wide and three feet long, for best results, use a finely
screened lid to keep out fruitflies which become a nuisance after time...the
box has about 9, 1" drain holes on the bottom. This should be sufficiant
size to hold 2000 worms...)

The book "Worms Eat My Garbage" is a great reference and a must read for anyone
seriously into worm-composting....!



According to several of the books I read on raising worms, the "Hybrid"
designation is pure hype. No one has been able to prove a true hybrid exists.
The differences are usually tracked down to superior feed and conditions rather
than any difference in breeding. For composting, you don't need to get into
raising the biggest fattest worms, anyway. You just want enough worms to eat
enough garbage. I started with worms dug from under a horse manure pit for
free, and have had nothing but good results, even when I added them to my
outside compost bins (after they cooled a bit).
:
:
Article 12661 (50 more) in rec.gardens:
From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.)
Subject: Re: Worms and Home Composting in Winter
Date: 31 Dec 92 05:45:05 GMT

In article <1htjioINN4pu@access.usask.ca> goldie@herald.usask.ca 
(Hugh Goldie) writes:
>I recently saw part of a Canadian news program from Winnipeg, about indoor
>composting with red worms.  I would be very thankful if someone could e-mail
>or post some details about this, particularly where to get worms and how to
>get started.  It is -37 degrees centigrade in Saskabush right now and my
>outdoor compost heap is probably working rather slowly... :-).

Organic Gardening magazine had an article on this topic in the January 92
issue, by Mary Appelhof who wrote the book "Worms Eat My Garbage". The
issue has plans for a *very* nice wormbin that fits well on a porch and
doubles as a bench. It also included the following sources:

Worms Eat My Garbage (book) for $10.50 (includ shipping) from:
Flower Press
10332 Shaver Road
Kalamazoo, MI 49002

Mary Appelhof also sells vermicomposting supplies including redworms
and her latest worm composting system (a plastic rectangular container
designed for indoor use, called 'The Worms Eat My Garbage Worm-a-way'
made of recycled plastic manufactured by We recycle Corp. of
Milton, Ont. Its manufacture provides employment for developmentally
disabled individuals.)

Write to:
Flowerfield Enterprises
10332 Shaver Road
Kalamazoo, MI 49002
(616) 327-0108

Also listed were:

Cape Cod Worm Farm
30 Center Ave.
Buzzards Bay, MA 02532

Carter Fishworm Farm
Plains, GA 31780

Early Bird Ecology
RR1
Smithville, ONT
Canada L0R 2A0
(Not sure what they sell, but i would guess worms, and the plastic bin,
perhaps the book.)

Gardener's Supply
128 Intervale Rd
Burlington, VT 05401
Free catalog, they sell the plastic bin, book and worms, and all three as
a deal i believe.

Redworms c/o Ron Clausen
2111 N. Century Blvd
McDavid, FL 32568

Snooks Worm Farm
Box 14 
Harold, FL 32563

May I also add:
Rainbow Worm Farm
24700 County Road No. 95
Davis, CA 95616
(916) 758-9906

I paid 21.00 (plus tax so it came to 22.31) for about two pounds
of bedrun redworms, and they are very nice people. You *won't* get a
'flyer{ from them saying 'raising earthworms are so easy, even your
wife could do it' as i got some certain farms located in places like
georgia...:-) 

I've had bins (1'x 2'x 3' in size, 2 of them, made out of scrap wood
with drainage holes,) outside for almost two years now, and i *love*
them. I've had no problems with rats or flies or anything, they smell
like dirt, not rotting stuff, and its just magic how my foodstuffs are
turned into wonderful rich compost. I followed the directions in Mary's
book, its a great book, and so is the OG article, and if your library
has it, its free.

I haven't tried her bin, nor seen one in person, so i can't comment
on that.

Kelly
kelly@cco.caltech.edu
:
Article 17804 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!ames!ncar!noao!stsci!yen
From: yen@stsci.edu (Felix Yen)
Subject: re: red earthworms
Message-ID: <1993May28.170217.1939@stsci.edu>
Sender: news@stsci.edu
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 17:02:17 GMT
Lines: 39


David C. Adams (dadams@cray.com) writes:
>  Gardens Alive offers 500 red earthworms for $19.95.  I think this is a 
>  pretty steep price.  It seems that I have seen a better price somewhere.
>  Does anyone know?

Bountiful Gardens is charging a "mere" $15.00 for 500.  But before you
order from them or anyone else, make sure you're getting the right
species of worm for your application.  "Red earthworms" are probably
Lumbricus rubellus which are fairly easy to buy and nice for composting,
but they won't do well in your garden unless your soil is quite rich.

Another common variety is the night crawler (Lumbricus terrestris) which
also has some nice properties, e.g. they are deep burrowers and don't
require as much food, but they aren't as active as other species and
they're migratory.  Thinking that my garden is a virtual worm prison,
it being surrounded by concrete slabs and brick/stone walls, I implanted
some Canadian night crawlers in the shady corner.  One year later, while
removing part of a brick path about 2 feet underground (I was digging a
pit for assorted plant refuse), a large worm crawled out from beneath a
brick.  He/she was either one of the original Canadians (African night
crawlers simply will not do at all) or one of his/her offspring.  In any
case, it clearly was not doing my plants much good hanging out underneath
a layer of bricks.

The best worms for garden use are common field worms (Allolobophora
caliginosa) even if they're slow reproducers, and swamp worms (Pheretima)
but both are hard to buy.  I have yet to find a Pheretima dealer, but did
manage to transplant a few earlier this year.  (Live, damn it!)

Your best bet might be buying castings or cocoons/eggs of an appropriate
species.  Last year, Gardener's Supply sold night crawler cocoons (I don't
get their catalogue anymore) and Bountiful Gardens sells castings, but
their catalogue does not indicate what species of worms/castings they are
selling.  The curious may call them at (707) 459 6410.


Felix
yen@stsci.edu


From ittomw@ucdavis.edu Fri Aug 26 22:03:10 EDT 1994
Article: 42128 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!Tom.Wilcox
From: ittomw@ucdavis.edu (Tom Wilcox)
Subject: Re: worms
Message-ID: <Cv01vK.1FA@ucdavis.edu>
X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0@rocky.ucdavis.edu.
Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[7719]
Organization: University of California, Davis
References:  <32vv7j$nov@news.umbc.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 1994 17:57:20 GMT
Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name.
Lines: 23

In article <32vv7j$nov@news.umbc.edu>
bolognes@umbc.edu (Ms. Cynthia Bolognese; (BIOL; GRAD)) writes:

> Hi, I'm looking for sources of 'red wrigglers' for vermicomposting. 
> Can anyone give me some addresses? Thanks in advance!

Cindy, I just bought some worms from a farm nearby.  Here is their
address:

Rainbow Worm Farm
24700 County Road 95
Davis, Calif. 95616

916-758-9906
916-756-0414

This is a company that supplies worms to major gardening catalogs. 
They are really friendly and will answer any questions you might have. 
We made a worm box last week from a plastic bin (storage locker) from
Walmart.  It is similar to the worm boxes in gardening catalogs, but
much less expensive.  A wooden box would be even less.  Hope this helps
. . . enjoy your worms!



From kowens@teleport.comThu Jan  4 18:42:58 1996
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 1996 09:34:26 -0500
From: Jeff Owens <kowens@teleport.com>
Reply to: Community_Forestry_Discussion <tree-house@lists.umbc.edu>
To: tree-house@lists.umbc.edu
Subject: Re: TH: About EarthWorms ...

This year we are trying various cover crops and mulching methods
to see what works and what does not.  One thing I have noticed
is that the worms have increased in some areas.  This is not a
very scientific test, just taking a sample of the soil with a
shovel.  But, it does indicate that worms like clover.  In areas
with clover I find worms everywhere.  Other areas with heavy
mulch also attract worms, but not as numerously.  Even the
area we are mulching with ant hills has attracted worms.

This might be an interesting strategy for planting trees.  Scatter
some clover seed around the tree at planting time to give the
tree some help with nitrogen and soil building.  The one caution
would be to look out for moles.   I don't know how the moles
find the worms, maybe that is the purpose of that big nose on
the front of the mole?

Changing subjects:  I have been reading about history and trees
and find the data very interesting.  Areas of the earth have
been deforested and other areas have increasing trees.  The
big factor seems to be man.  Surprisingly one of the big users
of trees was shipbuilding.  Another one was goats.  Today, the
problems have changed, and history doesn't provide any easy
answers.  But, it still seems to be the basic problem of looking
at trees as a consumable material and not as part of a sustainable
cycle.

Jeff 
From adm@ccadfa.cc.adfa.oz.au Wed Oct 26 10:57:23 EDT 1994
Article: 1245 of alt.architecture.alternative
Newsgroups: alt.architecture.alternative
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!caen!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!newshost.anu.edu.au!sserve!ccadfa.cc.adfa.oz.au!adm
From: adm@ccadfa.cc.adfa.oz.au (David Moss)
Subject: Re: Alternative to Septic Systems
Message-ID: <1994Oct24.040914.22524@sserve.cc.adfa.oz.au>
Sender: news@sserve.cc.adfa.oz.au
Organization: Australian Defence Force Academy, Canberra, Australia
References: <3896ph$mt7@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Oct 1994 04:09:14 GMT
Lines: 16

The Australian Army have successfully trialed a composting
system utilising worms to break down waste matter. The system
is self-regulating, the worms reproduce or become dormant
depending on the amount of waste material available for
consumption. During peak load conditions (about 1000 people
using the facilities) air is forced through the worm bed to
maintain aerobic conditions but under light loads (<20 users)
natural convection is sufficient. The system is installed at
a camp inside a Training Area which has a high conservation
value, and the method was chosen for it's minimal effect
on the environment. Feedback from the users of the system
was all positive.

(Information remembered from a radio interview)

David Moss.


From ae062@freenet.unbc.edu Sun Jul 30 23:39:34 EDT 1995
Article: 5952 of sci.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail
From: ae062@freenet.unbc.edu (Ron Hamilton)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Subject: Earthworms
Date: 27 Jul 1995 21:02:57 -0500
Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway
Lines: 72
Sender: nobody@cs.utexas.edu
Message-ID: <199507280203.TAA05612@freenet.unbc.edu>
Reply-To: ae062@freenet.unbc.edu
NNTP-Posting-Host: news.cs.utexas.edu

                             EARTHWORMS

    Earthworms so at least 8 things that are benificial to the 

soil.

    1. Worms' constant tunneling allow the free passage of air

into and out of the soil.

    2. Their constant burrowing also breaks up the hard pan and

plow sole which every mechanical tillage unit creates.

    3. Worms by eating the organics such as manure, leaves, grass

and decaying wood, break them up at a much faster rate than would

otherwise occur.

    4. Nutrient rich worm burrows allow plant roots to develop

faster thus making stronger healthier plants which are not as 

susceptable to fungus or disease.

    5. Rainfall is able to enter the soil easily when lots of 

worms are present. This eliminates water erosion and puddling

which can kill young plants.

    6. In the case of Lumbricus Terrestris and about 50 other

species which have similar habits, the digging of deep semi-

permanent burrows bring mineral rich sub-soils to the surface

in reach of plant roots.

    7. A large population of worms will likely attract Robins

among other species of birds. While Robins will prey on the 

worms in the early months when the worms are near the surface,

the presence of these birds is invaluable in that they will turn

to feeding on insect pests which will invariably show up.

    8. Probably the most important contribution made by worms

is the way they homogenize the mineral and organics into a rich

black humus. Mixing compost into clay or sandy soils is a big

improvement but no where as effective as the way the worms are

able to do it on their own. When worms ingest organics they also

have to take in small bits of grit just as birds do to digest

their food. When this is expelled it is a nutrient rich manure

known as a "cast". The structural integrity of each cast is such

that it does not fall apart readily. In this way soil structure 

is improved and erosion from wind and water is lessened.

--
ae062@freenet.unbc.edu (Ron Hamilton Prince George, B.C.)


Date: Tue, 5 Apr 1994 13:32:52 -0700
From: Mat Werner <werner@zzyx.UCSC.EDU>

I want to second the explanation that the term hybrid attached to earthworms
is pure hype. The species to use for vermiculture, vermicomposting is
Eisenia foetida, aka the red worm. Anyone who perpetuates the hybrid myth is
causing troubles for others. I recently visited Cuba and the Cubans went to great lengths in the 80's to track down and obtain living specimens of the
supposed "California Red Hybrid". It wasn't until after they got a shipment
from Spain (via Italy, originally from CA) that they realized the worms were
none other than E. foetida. 

I am currently working on a book on the general subject of earthworm 
biology and ecology, and practical applications. 

Matt Werner
UCSC Agroecology Program
Santa Cruz, CA 95064
 F€  .    0   ..   Fè earthworm.faq                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   From kcurr@cyberspace.com Tue Apr 18 13:28:25 EDT 1995
Article: 64426 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cyberspace.com!ppp52-151.cyberspace.com!user
From: kcurr@cyberspace.com (Kaycee Curr)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Q: worm bin
Date: 14 Apr 1995 05:50:38 GMT
Organization: C y b e r S p a c e - (206) 505-5577
Lines: 43
Message-ID: <kcurr-1304952250080001@ppp52-151.cyberspace.com>
References: <3mjscc$nbh@rmstar.efi.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp52-151.cyberspace.com

In article <3mjscc$nbh@rmstar.efi.com>, saeedg@efi.com (Saeed Ganji) wrote:

> Well. I heard so much about it I went ahead and ordered a package of 500
> redworms from a mail order place called Gardens Alive. Then I thought to
> myself, that I don't know wha to do with them when they arrive.
> 
> Any help regarding different ways to design a worm bin will be appreciated.
> Any other suggestions, as to feeding, separating the castings from the rest
> of the goodies, including the red folks, making sure the eggs will not be
> made separated from the gang, you know, the ins and outs of the upkeeping
> would be very nice indeed. 
> 
> I'm sure this subject has been discussed in the past. If you can refer or send
> any articles to me directly or posted here, whatever.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> sg

A very insightful book is "Worms Eat My Garbage". I don't have the
author's name for you at the moment, but I've seen it available at a lot
of garden/nursery's in our area, so you might check for it where you're
at. In that book, she discusses how to build your own bin, the sorting
process, feeding, etc. EVERYTHING you ever wanted to know about worm
binning.

We got our worms and a worm bin kit (plastic crate that's ventilated on
the bottom with a thick nylon filter to keep the worms from running (?)
away from the Gardener's Supply Company. They also sell things separately
(like just the bin, or just the filter, the book, etc)  You will need a
home for those little critters so I would start looking around for your
bin now before they arrive.

This will be the second year that we've had ours, and I've gotta say that
it's easier than I thought it would be. It also doesn't smell, which I
thought it would. One point though I'd like to mention is that although
the book says you can keep in your house (like the basement) I wouldn't.
For the first year we kept mine in my art studio and some stray bugs
(gnats/fruit flies) found it. It took MONTHS to get rid of all them (the
bugs) in my studio and my house!!! A closed shed is a much better place
for them, the gnats can't find the bin in the dark, and the worms don't
seem to mind the cold (we are zone 8) in the winter.

Kaycee


From burnley@bscr.uga.edu Tue Dec 13 15:55:32 EST 1994
Article: 49158 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!kurtzmac.chem.uga.edu!user
From: burnley@bscr.uga.edu (Vicki Burnley)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Worm bins
Date: 12 Dec 1994 18:34:34 GMT
Organization: Dept. of Chemistry
Lines: 50
Message-ID: <burnley-1212941502290001@kurtzmac.chem.uga.edu>
References: <1994Dec12.012725.29021@news.vanderbilt.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: kurtzmac.chem.uga.edu

In article <1994Dec12.012725.29021@news.vanderbilt.edu>,
DORNSJ@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Sherman Dorn) wrote:

> Next question:  what are the necessary conditions for a good worm bin?
> I've got a large (18 gal.) plastic tote bucket that I'm thinking of
> using as a worm bin for kitchen wastes.  I've heard that the best
> way to start a worm bin is to combine some fibrous material (like
> shredded newspaper) with a nitrogen-rich material, wet it, and 
> introduce a pound of red worms.  After a few days, the worms are
> supposed to be on their way, and I can start adding ground-up or
> blended kitchen scraps, right?
> 
> Here are the questions:
> 
> 1.  How much original material should I put together for a pound of
> red worms?  This is a huge container compared to the original amount
> of worms.
> 
> 2.  How do you remove the worm casings?  I've heard of two methods:
> 
>         a.  having some sort of spigot at the bottom of the bin
>                 to draw out "worm tea"
> 
>         b.  Wait until an over-40 F day, dump the entire contents
>                 of the bin, wait for the worms to clump together,
>                 put the clump of worms back in the bin, and
>                 start over, using the non-worm contents as
>                 plant goodies.
> 
> 3.  An OG letter a long time ago mentioned drilling 1/2" holes in
> the sides of a plastic tote like mine, and adding screening on
> the inside.  Is the necessary?  If so, why?
> 
> ----------
> Sherman Dorn
> dornsj@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu

Sherman,
   Dumping the entire contents seems to work well especially since your
container is not very large. You do need to drill holes in the side to
one, release excess moisture, and two to ventilate and let off heat. You
will quickly cook your worms in a sealed system. The screen on the inside
of the holes will keep out yellow jackets which will quickly make your
worm bin a very inhospitable place if you do not deter them since the
thrive on kitchen scraps also. 
   The rest of your plan sounds fine- be sure not to add any meat scraps
or the entire thing will be a rancid mess. Good luck,
                     Vicki Burnley
                     Unv of GA
                     e-mail burnley@bscr.uga.edu


From afn06009@freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu Wed Dec 21 22:53:11 EST 1994
Article: 49352 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu!freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu!afn06009
From: afn06009@freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu (K. Daniel Warco)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Worm bins
Date: 17 Dec 1994 10:46:57 GMT
Organization: Alachua County Freenet
Lines: 10
Message-ID: <3cufj1$nil@freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu>
References: <burnley-1212941502290001@kurtzmac.chem.uga.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet3.freenet.ufl.edu

To harvest dump the contents on a flat surface under a light.  Wait a few 
minutes for the worms to go down in the pile.  Scrape the top layer of 
bedding and castings from the pile untill you get to the worms.  Wait a 
few minutes for the worms to go deeper and repeat the scrapping.  After 
doing this a few times you will end up with just worms.  Put the worms 
back in the bin with new bedding and you are back in business.

Have fun.
I use the castings on all of my plants, my garden, trees, and lawn. 
D A N- Trenton, Fl.     KAZARIE Worm Farm


From tony@nexus.yorku.ca Wed May 17 23:54:09 EDT 1995
Article: 69980 of rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!nexus.yorku.ca!tony
From: tony@nexus.yorku.ca (Anthony Wallis)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Vermicomposting
Date: 16 May 1995 12:34:52 GMT
Organization: York University, Ontario, Canada
Lines: 52
Message-ID: <3pa65c$n72@sunburst.ccs.yorku.ca>
References: <D8HnwH.79D@freenet.carleton.ca> <3p7vs9$5pq@baccus.itl.saic.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: nexus.yorku.ca

Robert Bowd   > I would like to find out about vermicomposting.
              > I am a novice.  Can you help?
Scott Caneday > ..  "Worms Eat My Garbage" ..

Here's a summary, based partly on reading and partly on my first year of
experience ..
(Note: this refers to _indoor_ vermicomposing in a _container_.)

* Container : Must be opaque since worms avoid light; typically
    a "blue box" (i.e. recycling plastic bin) with a lid.  Drill
    several dozen 3/8" holes in lid for venting.
* Bedding   : Shredded newpaper and light fine potting soil,
    typically 3:1 fluffed-up newspaper : potting soil by volume; must be
    moist, but not sopping wet; worms will produce water as part
    of digestion of feed.
* Worms     : Must be "redworms".
* Feed      : Must be vegetarian, no meat or fats.  Should be
    chopped finely (worms don't have teeth).  I put all my worm
    feed through a blender, then a sieve, and then dry it to a
    "semi-moist meatloaf" consistency in the oven.  Bury the
    feed deeply in the bedding.  Don't worry about spreading it
    around, put it all in one place and the worms will find it.
    Rotate the feeding position around the bin.  In addition to
    vegetarian (vegs. and fruit waste), feed them tea bags and
    and coffee filters.
* pH        : Don't let bedding get too acidic.  Add a little
    powdered limestone ( I guess ground-up Tums would do )
    occasionally.  [ Actually I have never had to do this.  I
    test my worm bedding with pH test paper and it is always
    slightly alkaline.  ??? ]
* Problems  :
  (1)  Little flying insects.  These may be fruit flies, or
       another insect (fungus gnats ?) mistaken for fruit
       flies.  Control with one of those plasic strips that give
       off insecticide vapour.  [ They come with an adustable
       carboard sleeve.  Mine got soft in the moist enviroment
       so I put the vaporising strip in a plasic bottle with a
       few holes "drilled" in it with a soldering iron. ]
  (2)  Worms crawling up walls of bin.  Put them back gently using
       a toothpick.  Leave lid off for a while to dry out excess
       moisture.  Light will drive worms back "underground".
* Harvesting compost :
    Have fresh bedding prepared beforehand.  I dump contents out
    onto floor and then sieve out the worms and large lumps of
    bedding from the compost.  The harvested compost will
    contain worm eggs.  You may not want worms in your indoor
    pots, so sterilise by baking in oven.

--
tony@nexus.yorku.ca = Tony Wallis, York University, North York, Canada.




From richard.hill@24stex.com Tue Oct  4 20:43:17 EDT 1994
Newsgroups: sci.bio.ecology
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 1994 23:55:00 EDT
Sender: "Ecological Society of America: grants, jobs,
              news" <ECOLOG-L@UMDD.BITNET>
From: richard.hill@24stex.com
Subject: EARTHWORM STUDIES


Hello.  Recently there was a post related to earthworm studies.  I've deleted
the post, but wonder if the following citation would be of help?  there are
about 60 citations.

Wood, Hulton B. and Samuel W. James.  1993.  Native and introduced earthworms
>from  selected chaparral, woodland, and riparian zones in southern California.
Gen Tech Rep PSW-GTR-142.  Albany, CA: Pacific Southwest Research Station,
Forest Service, US Dept of Agriculture; 20p.

Richard.Hill@24stex.com



------------ End Forwarded Message -------------


From stuart@zephyr.manawatu.planet.co.nz Sun Oct 16 21:44:27 EDT 1994
From: stuart@zephyr.manawatu.planet.co.nz (Stuart Brown)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: earthworms
Date: Fri, 07 Oct 1994 20:50:00 +1200

rdennis@aol.com (RDennis) writes:

>   Some friends here in rural southern Nevada are talking aout raising
>earthworms as an investment project to make a few dollars. Any ideas,
>experience, suggestions?
>   Thanks, Ron
>    Respond here or e-mail at rdennis@aol.com. 

There is a good publication called "Earthworms Unlimited - backyard 
earthworm breeding" by Amy Brown. It is a New Zealand publication, if you 
want the address email me.

Stuart Brown
Waitahora,
R.D.1,
Dannevirke,
New Zealand.
stuart@zephyr.manawatu.planet.co.nz

--


From DBCHC@aol.comSat Nov 26 11:44:57 1994
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 19:03:57 -0500
From: DBCHC@aol.com
To: london@sunsite.unc.edu
Subject: Re: worm list

WORM SUPPLIERS

Avant Garden Vermicomposting Systems
PO Box 1303
Ross, CA 94957
(415) 488-1642

Rainbow Worm Farm
24700 County Road 95
Davis, CA 95616
(916) 758-9906

Cape Cod Worm Farm
30 Center Avenue
Buzzards Bay, MA 02532
(508) 759-5664

 ?   .    0   ..   ?è  The.Burrow.vermiculture.www-site                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                From smithphy@ucs.orst.edu Sat Mar 25 11:34:30 EST 1995
Article: 22195 of sci.bio
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!sgiblab!wetware!wsrcc.com!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!ucs.orst.edu!smithphy
From: Phyllis Smith <smithphy@ucs.orst.edu>
Newsgroups: sci.bio
Subject: Re: HELP!!! need info on MEALWORMS
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 19:46:00 -0800
Organization: University Computing Services - Oregon State University
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.950321193503.8361B-100000@ucs.orst.edu>
References: <3k6fk7$l3o@mark.ucdavis.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: ucs.orst.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
In-Reply-To: <3k6fk7$l3o@mark.ucdavis.edu> 

How many mealworms do you wish to raise?  If you want a lot of them, get 
an old ten gallon aquarium.  Put about two inches of bran meal in it.  On 
top of the bran meal put a few leave of lettuce.  They also appreciate 
apple slices, bread, cereal and vegetables.  The mealworms will get the 
water they need from the lettuce and other vegetables.  If you want to 
start out with a large quantity look in a Bird Magazine, there are 
several ads in them.  If you want to start out small, you can get 100 in 
a pet store.  I also cover the entire surface of the bran meal and 
lettuce with a piece of burlap.  

I hope this helps you.  I have used this method to raise mealworms for my 
finches for the last six years.

Good luck,

Will Smith
Albany, Oregon


From MAILER-DAEMON@umailsrv1.umd.edu Tue Oct  4 20:45:56 EDT 1994
Article: 5987 of sci.bio.ecology
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!paladin.american.edu!auvm!umailsrv1.umd.edu!MAILER-DAEMON
Comments: Gated by NETNEWS@AUVM.AMERICAN.EDU
Newsgroups: sci.bio.ecology
Approved-By: di5 <David_W_INOUYE@UMAIL.UMD.EDU>
Message-ID: <9409281510.AB09681@umailsrv1.UMD.EDU>
Date: Wed, 28 Sep 1994 11:19:00 EDT
Sender: "Ecological Society of America: grants, jobs,
              news" <ECOLOG-L@UMDD.BITNET>
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON@umailsrv1.umd.edu>
Subject: Re: earthworms
Lines: 37

One of the main workers in this field is Dr. Geoff Baker at the Div. of
Entomology in Adelaide his full address is:
Dr. Geoff Baker,
Div. of Entomology,
P.M.B. 2
Glen Osmond 5064
South Australia,
Australia

Phone 61-83038469
FAX  61-83038549

He doesn't have e-mail though I am putting the pressure on.

One method of getting earthworm free space that he uses is by usin a core
(PVC, around 400 cm diameter) tube during the dry season when worms go deep
and aestivate, by placing mesh at the bottom of the core tube at this time
it stops the reentry of any earthworms and voila!

Hope this helps, he is a font of knowledge on the subject.

James

Dr. James Coupland                                              Tel. (33)
67593103
CSIRO Biological Control Unit
Campus International de Baillarguet                    Tel. (33) 67593100
Switchboard
Montferrier sur Lez,                                                 Fax
(33) 67599040
34982 France



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 7€  .    0   ..   7  Mother-Earth-Worms   7‚Ì Kazarie.Worm.Farm                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Article 212 of sci.agriculture:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!jmcnult
From: jmcnult@orion.it.luc.edu (John A. Mcnulty)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture
Subject: Horse manure, Zimectrin, and earthworms
Date: 16 Feb 1994 13:48:40 GMT
Organization: Loyola University of Chicago
Lines: 11
Message-ID: <2jt87o$nk3@apollo.it.luc.edu>
NNTP-Posting-Host: orion.it.luc.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

I have been following a thread in rec.equestrian on outlawing
horse manure in California as "toxic waste", and one in 
rec.gardens on the commonly used de-wormer Zimectrin as being 
toxic to earthworms. If horse manure is mixed with urine/wood
shavings bedding, won't the decomposition of the shavings
require extra nitrogen, thereby negating the urine problem?

Are de-wormers fatal to earthworms (makes sense!) and how long
does the stuff last in compost?

Patty, not John   


Tue 20 Jul 93 16:43
By: Tom Ezell
Re: Worm Composting



How to Create Vermicompost

To create your own vermicompost system you must hove the proper
container, bedding, type of worm, and organic waste. The following
instructions will give you some guidelines for the production of a
vermicompost system,

1.)  Containers. Make sure homemade containers have not been made from
pressure treated wood and have never stored any kind of chemicals.
Exterior grade plywood is probably best for durability. Aeration holes
should be placed on the sides of the box, and a lid of some sort should
be used to keep insects and animals out of the bin. The average 1-foot
high, 2-feet deep and 3-feet wide (1'h x 2'd x 3'w) box will handle
about 6 lbs. of garbage per week.

2.)  Bedding. Cellulose-based bedding is recommended because it provides
moisture retention and aeration. As the worms search for food they
tunnel through and consume bedding, replacing it with worm castings. The
perfect bedding mixture for the bin size above is 10 lbs. of shredded
newspaper, a gallon of garden soil, and 4 gallons of water (which makes
this environment about 75% moisture).

3.)  Type of Worm. The required worm for vermicompost is the redworm
(also known as red wigglers or manure worms). These worms ore ideal for
composting because they are able to consume the equivalent of their own
weight each day, can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, and
reproduce well in the environment provided for them in a vermicompost
bin.  For the bin dimensions and amount of bedding described above, the
recommended number of worms to start with is opproximately 1,200 to
2,400 (2 lbs) redworms.

4.) Food Supply. The redworm will consume almost all normal kitchen
scraps. However it is important to avoid putting meat scraps, bones,
and dairy products in the bin as they could produce strong odors and
attract animals.  When just beginning your vermicompost practices, it is
suggested that you start off slowly, giving the worms between 2 or 3
lbs. of garbage per week.

5.) Location of Bin. Worm bins should be located where access to them
is convenient and temperatures are relatively moderate. Bins may be
placed in basements. patios, porches, utility rooms, or even kitchens.


Information Sources for Vermicomposting:

Appelhof, Mary. 'Worms do the Work', Organic Gardening. January
1992, pp. 58-63,
Appelhof, Mary, _ Worms in My Garbage_ , Flower Press, 1982.
Robert Kourik, "As the Worm Turns",  _Garbage_,  January-February 1992,
pp. 48-51


Ordering Information for  Vermicompost Systems and Supplies

Flowerfield Enterprises
10332 Shaver Rood
Kalamazoo, Ml 49002
(616) 327-0108

Smith and Hawken
25  Corte Modera
Mill Volley, CA 94941
(410) 383-2000

Gardeners Supply Co.
128 lntervale Rood
Burlington VT 05401
(800) 955-3370

 * SLMR 2.1a * Math and Alcohol don't mix.  Please don't drink & derive.
 * Origin: Environment Arkansas! Little Rock  501-570-2868 (1:3821/16)

Article 47251 of rec.gardens:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!olivea!uunet!nntp.sita.int!sunshine.ps.atl.sita.int!jenab
From: jenab@sunshine.ps.atl.sita.int (Jena B)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Vermicomposting
Date: 3 Nov 1994 19:34:25 GMT
Organization: SITA
Lines: 19
Message-ID: <39be01$mt6@ash.es.atl.sita.int>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sunshine.es.atl.sita.int
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]

Hello all,
I was the lucky MG chosen to become the 'worm expert' in the Atlanta area.
I have already printed two post from a week or two ago, and have even
started a little 'worm box'.  Now, I would really appreciate any help,
comments, funny stories, success stories, etc. that any of you would be
willing to share with me.  I will have to compile all information into
a pamplet for the extension service, and will give credit where credit
is due.  I am also scheduled to speak at our Gwinnett County Master
Gardners meeting in March '95.  And some schools have expressed an interest
in having me come and speak about vermicomposting, and perhaps getting
the children started on their own project.  (won't their parents love
that!)

Thanks in advance!  Post it here, or e-mail me and I will keep everyone
up to date on the progress.

--
Jena Buttimer
jenab@es.atl.sita.int


Article 31745 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: More vermicomposting ques
From: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly)
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!convex!news.duke.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <36.617.2817.0N429D25@granite.mn.org>
Date: Thu,  5 May 94 00:15:00 +0600
Organization: Granite City Connection St. Cloud MN 612-654-8372
Lines: 64

Subject: More vermicomposting questions

April writes in May:

T>1) I seem to have received a mixture of nightcrawlers and redworms,
 >   instead of all redworms as promised by the company.  Will this
 >   make a huge difference?  I know that they like different kinds
 >   of substrate, but what if I offered them a mixture? (I'm not in the
 >   mood to sort 500 worms now or ever)

I know the feeling April.  One of my mottos is to never count chickens,
hatched or not.

T>2) How much room do I need to provide per worm? (Say, worms/square inch)

Since redworms and nightcrawlers do not live in the same habitat, you
need to place the mixture in an environment where the nightcrawlers
(lumbricus terrestris) can burrow in the native soil below.  Most
nightcrawlers, if they are so old and large that you can tell them from
redworms, will be unable to excavate a new burrow.  They typically grow
a burrow from childhood and live in it all their life, shaving a little
off the sides periodically as they mature.  For an adult worm to create
a new tunnel network when they are fat and lazy is asking a lot.

But it can be done if your soil is soft, there is a good mulch layer
above the soil that is kept undisturbed, and you provide plenty of
moisture.  Placing your mixture into an old compost mixed with peat and
or shredded corrugated is a good mix.  Then place a two inch layer of
wet, fresh, horse manure (make sure not recently de-wormed!) and the red
worms will come up to the top and the nightcrawlers will stay below to
burrow.

T>3) How fresh should the veggies be that I feed to them?

If you are using redworms to cure compost, a process called
vermistabilization, you should compost your table scraps first and feed
the compost to the worms in thin layers when the compost is hot and
active.  If you are looking to have the worms *do it all*, a process
called vermicomposting, then you can add fresh table scraps right to the
worm beds.  You need at least two parts bedding to one part table
scraps, making sure to bury the scraps thoroughly.

You can have upwards of 3,500 worms per cubic foot with a maximum of
7,000.  The minimum is around 500.  Do not feed the worms any more than
they can eat in any given area in more than two weeks.  Stated
otherwise, it takes a pound of worms to eat a pound of daily feed.  Bear
in mind that you will also have to remove a pound per day of old worm
castings too.  This can be done either on a continuous basis from the
bottom of the worm bed or periodically using a batch technique.

I assume that you have Mary Appelhof's book, "Worms Eat My Garbage".....

Most of these answers are in her book.

Lots of luck. It sounds like you are on your way to a successful
earthworm culture.

Mr Compost~~~

Jim~ McNelly
ReSourceNet and GardenNet 612-654-8372, 656-0678 v.32bis
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org
---
 * May 4th - Let me see.... Now how does that twit filter work?


From AGSIEVEFB.parti@parti.inforum.org Thu Jan  5 21:37:17 EST 1995
Article: 4974 of alt.sustainable.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!oit-mail2news-gateway
From: AGSIEVEFB.parti@parti.inforum.org
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Subject: (none)
Date: 5 Jan 1995 20:32:51 -0000
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NNTP-Posting-Host: bigblue.oit.unc.edu

***********************************************************
INTERNATIONAL AG-SIEVE  Volume VII, number 1   (SOIL FAUNA)
***********************************************************


-  Cuba's Composting

-  Stimulating Soils: an earthworm's approach




Below are some of the rough articles which will be included in the next issue 
(Vol VII, 1) of the International Ag-Sieve. Within the next week more articles 
will be posted. The purpose of this electronic version of the newsletter is to 
send out the soon-to-be-printed articles to you, the reader, in the hope that 
you will respond and comment on the contents. Please send your suggestions to:

Agsievefb.inbox@parti.inforum.org

Once comments are read, stylistic changes are made according to suggestions, 
and some individual remarks will be added to the printed version under our 
Readers React column. I hope you enjoy this up-coming issue, and I look forward

to your reactions.


Sincerely,

Roger Bairstow
Communications Manager
Rodale Research Institute

                                           
---------------------------------------------------------------------




Cuba's Composting! 


Caught in a vice of economic sanctions, political pressures and faltering 
production, Cuba is faced with no alternative but to find alternatives to its 
past dependency on imports of fossil fuels, fertilizers, pesticides, animal 
feed and the like. Agricultural imports have been cut by as much as 80%. 
Consequently, the Cuban government has established programs designed for sound 
and effective soil management and have made earthworms one of the key agents in

their drive for agricultural sustainability. By using selected earthworm 
species, Cuban scientists have developed a full technological package for the 
production of humus from earthworms, a process known as vermicomposting or 
vermiculture, and generally recommend an application rate of 4 tons/ha of 
earthworm humus to most crops.

Compost production

Cuba's verimcomposting program started in 1986 with two small boxes of red 
worms, Eisenia foetida  and Lumbricus rubellus..  Today there are 172 
vermicompost centers that in 1992 produced 93,000 tons of worm humus. Several 
different institutions and companies are involved in vermiculture operations, 
but research is conducted primarily by the Institute of Soils and Fertilizers 
and the National Institute of Agricultural Sciences. 

The production of vermicompost requires a mixture of worm castings, organic 
material and bedding in various stages of decomposition. First, manure is 
composted for approximately 30 days aerobically, and then transferred to open 
vermicompost beds. At some sites like the Pinar del Rio vermiculture center, 
these beds are located in the shade of large mango trees which benefit from 
nutrients leached from the piles. The beds are approximately 1.5 meters wide 
and of varying length. The compost is mixed with soil and "seeded" with 
earthworms. Most vermicomposting operations in Cuba use cow manure as the 
primary source of organic material. Other sources include pig and sheep manure,

filter press cake from sugarcane, coffee pulp, plantains and municipal garbage.

Vermicompost beds are sprinkled with water to maintain optimum moisture and 
temperature requirements. The worms feed on the freshly applied compost at the 
top of the beds and deposit their castings in the lower levels. Compost is 
continually applied until the beds reach a height of approximately 0.9 meters  
after about 90 days. The worms are concentrated in the top 10 cm of the pile 
and scraped off or separated from the vermicompost in a screening process. The 
humus is either dried and bagged or used on-site as a soil amendment and 
fertilizer.

Beneficial Castings

The humus produced in vermicomposting improves soil nutrient content and 
permeability, helps control diseases that attack plants and stimulates plant 
growth. Cuban researchers have found that nitrogen concentrations are higher in

vermicomposting than in static compost piles. For instance, four tons of 
vermicompost per hectare can replace forty tons of cow manure per  hectare of 
tobacco, resulting in as much as a 36% improvement in yield. Earthworm castings

contain 1.5 - 2.2% Nitrogen, 1.8 - 2.2% Phosphorous, 1.0 - 1.5% potassium and 
65-70% organic matter, lasting up to five years in the soil.

Jorge Ramon Cuevas, the earthworm man of Cuba, states that scientists have 
experimented with several earthworm species for vermiculture, including E. 
foetida  and L. rubellus  and a Pheretima  species brought from the Philippines

to begin the national initiative. Work now focuses on two species thought to be

most useful under Cuban conditions: Eisenia andrei, which can tolerate the 
humid, subtropical Cuban climate better than E. foetida , and Eudrilus 
eugeniae, the African Red Worm. E. eugeniae  is less tolerant and prone to 
escaping when conditions are not quite right as compared to E. andrei . 
However, it produces more protein than E. andrei   and is useful as a 
supplemental animal feed.

Other Uses for the Earthworm

Worm populations under vermiculture can double in 60-90 days. Worms not used 
to seed new compost piles are dried and used as a supplemental protein for 
animals. Earthworms are useful as animal feed because they are high in protein 
and contain the amino acid methionine (4%), which is absent from feed grains. 
Cuban scientists have determined the correct balance of earthworm proteins in 
various animal feeds (10-40% in fish meal, 4% in shrimp feed and 6% in chicken 
feed).  They also discovered that chopping up earthworms releases enzymes which

quickly degrade the quality of the feed. Cuba's future plans include production

of earthworm excrement to be used as substrate for bacteria, which in turn will

be used as biofertilizer.

Extension and Expansion

Five experimental stations located in different parts of the country have 
responsibility for training new worm growers in their regions. Information is 
exchanged among these growers at an annual national conference on 
vermicomposting. National television programs and newspaper articles are used 
to help educate farmers, school children and the general public about 
vermiculture.

At the Soil Institute, plans exist for a vermiculture research facility, but 
construction has not started. The Institute is presently spearheading efforts 
to market and sell worm humus in 40 kg, 1 kg and 1/2 kg bags under the trade 
name Midas.  A 40 kg bag of Cuban worm humus can sell for as much as $80-100 
(US) on the international market, though humus production has not reached 
levels that permit significant exports. Income generating schemes have focused 
on joint production ventures and the sale of technical assistance for start-up 
vermiculture programs outside Cuba. Altogether, it looks as though Cuban 
vermiculture is proving to be a promising means of import substitution as well 
as profitable.


Gersper et al., Agriculture and Human Values, Vol. X, number 3, Summer 1993, 
pp.16-23.

Werner, Matthew, Cuban Agriculture Looks to Vermiculture, The Cultivar, Vol. 
12, No. 2, Summer 1994


Contact: 

Paul L. Gersper, Associate Professor, Department of Environmental Sciences, 
Policy and Management, University of California at Berkeley
Fax: (510) 642-0535

Matthew Werner, Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food
Systems



--------------------------------------------------------

Stimulating Soils: an earthworm's approach

In the Cte d'Ivoire, something has been found can turn infertile, 
granite-derived soils of into a more hospitable land for the growth of certain 
plants. Remarkably, this "something" is no more than a handful of select 
earthworm species. Their incorporation into the soil has had beneficial effects

on nitrogen and phosphorous levels and plant growth.

Little is yet known whether tropical earthworms, with their diverse ecological 
strategies are able to stimulate plant growth, but scientists in the Cte 
d'Ivoire have attempted to prove just that. Their results not only demonstrate 
the positive effects earthworms can have on the soil and plants, but also 
highlight the importance in choosing earthworm species that are suited to the 
given environmental conditions if they are to increase agricultural 
productivity.

What and Where

Studies were conducted at the Station d'Ecologie Lamto in the Cte d'Ivoire 
where average annual rainfall is 1228 mm and the average monthly temperature 
ranges from 25.7{C in August to 28.8{C in February. The granite-derived, 
savanna soil is classified as a ferralsol  (7.5% clay, 14% silt, 29.4% fine 
sand, 46% coarse sand). 

Experiments were conducted to asses the influence of four species of 
earthworms on the growth of maize, the response of the grass Panicum maximum  
to the addition of two masses of eudrilid (JKL: what's that?) earthworms,  and 
the effects on Panicum maximum  in the transfer of nitrogen from the earthworm,

M. anomala, and microbial biomass to P. maximum .

Experiments 1 and 2

Similar procedures were used in the experiments testing the influence of four 
earthworm species on the growth of maize and the influence of Chuniodrilus 
zielae  and Stuhlmannia porifera  on the perennial grass, Panicum maximum . The

four earthworm species chosen for the first experiment consisted of:

1)      a mixture ofChuniodrilus zielae  and Stuhlmannia  porifera  (two small 
polyhumic        endogeic species);
2)      Hyperiodrilus africanus  (a pigmented, epi-endogeic species common in 
West  Africa);
3)      Ponotscoex corethrurus  (Glossoscolecidae, an endogeic species common 
throughout       the humid tropical zone but which does not occur at Lamto); 
and 
4)      Millsonia anomala  (a mesohumic endogeic species which dominates the 
Lamto    savannas).

Within three days of planting maize (experiment 1) and P. maximum  (experiment 
2), the biomasses of the five earthworm species (experiment 1) and Chuniodrilus

zielae  and Stuhlmannia porifera  (experiment 2) were added to 10 liter plastic

containers containing 2 mm-sieved soil from the top 10 cm of the profile. The 
containers were furnished with holes covered with a fine mesh to allow free 
drainage and prevent the entry or exit of earthworms and plant roots. The 
experiments, 12 weeks in duration, were conducted as a completely randomized 
design with four replications of each treatment for the first experiment, and 
five replications for the second. In experiment 2, live biomasses of 0.5 and 
1.0 g of  Chuniodrilus zielae  and Stuhlmannia porifera  earthworms were added 
to the five replication, and three seedlings were permitted to grow in each 
bucket.

In experiment 1, the maize plants survived poorly in the nitrogen-and 
phosphorus-deficient soil. Neither Pontoscolex corethrurus  nor H. africanus  
survived, and the biomasses ofC. zielae  andS. porifera  either remained 
constant or declined over the course of the experiment. The biomasses of M. 
anomala  declined similarly, although in the replications where both plants and

earthworms survived to maturity, M. anomala  biomass increased slightly.

For experiment 2, the mean above-ground biomasses of the grass, P. maximum , 
in each of the treatments at harvest were 3.75 g for the control and 6.98 and 
11.77 grams, respectively, for the treatments with the 0.5 and 1.0 gram 
earthworms.  It is clear that the presence of these earthworms led to a 
significant increase in the final biomass of  P. maximum  compared with the 
control treatment. However, in comparing the two treatments which contained the

0.5 and 1.0 gram earthworms, there was no significant difference in the final 
biomass of P. maximum . Over the course of the experiment, the earthworms' 
biomass increased substantially; to an average of 1.45 g in the 0.5 g treatment

and 2.03 g in the 1.0 g treatment.



N and P Transfer

To examine how nitrogen, transferred to a plant, is influenced by the presence 
of earthworms, the earthworms and the microbial biomass of the soil were 
labeled with 15N, a tracible element. The microbial biomass of the soil was 
marked by incubating the soil for a month with 15N-labeled ammonium sulphate 
and glucose mixed to attain a C:N ratio of approximately 15.  After one month, 
juvenile specimens of M. anomala  were introduced into the marked soil and kept

there for a month to ensure that there was adequate time for 15N to become 
present in the plant and earthworm biomass. P. maximum  plants were grown as in

the previous experiment. Three combinations were used: 1) labelled soil with 
unlabeled worms; 2) labeled soil without worms; and 3) unlabeled soil with 
labeled worms.

The harvested biomass of the P. maximum  plants for all treatments is 
presented in Table 1. Total biomass in the treatment with 15N-labeled M. 
anomala  was substantially higher than the corresponding treatment in the 
previous experiments with M. anomala . The reason for this is unclear. Higher 
P. maximum  biomass in the two remaining treatments may have been due to the N 
added in labeling the microbial biomass. In the two treatments where earthworms

were included, the worms grew actively throughout the experimental period. In 
the treatment of labeled earthworms and unlabeled microbial biomass, 
concentrations of 15N in the foliage and roots were only marginally higher than

in the unlabeled soil. Where the microbial biomass alone was labeled, both the 
earthworms and plant parts had significant accumulations of 15N.

Conclusion

The addition of earthworms to containers where the test plants were growing 
led to increased plant production.  This growth stimulation occurred at 
earthworm biomass levels found normally in field situations. Both C. zielae , 
S. porifera  and M. anomala  proved effective in growth stimulation. With 
additional biomass of approximately 4 g of live earthworms per container, it is

possible that the decline of growth stimulation is due to the formation of a 
poorly-permeable structure from excessive amounts of castings. Earthworms 
apparently survive less well at these higher biomass levels. A clear maximum 
value occurs in the relationship between earthworm biomass and the ratio 
above-ground: root biomass, suggesting that a higher above-ground production 
per unit mass of roots occurs in the presence of earthworms.

Earthworms have also been shown to facilitate the transfer of nitrogen and 
phosphate from the soil microbial biomass to the plant, and in the case of M. 
anomala , elevate microbial biomass levels in the roots. The casts of anecic 
(JKL: ??) earthworms and M. anomala  also appear to increase the availability 
of phosphate.

The failure of the maize plants to grow satisfactorily in the infertile Lamto 
soil suggests that the stimulatory effects of earthworms were insufficient to 
meet the nutrient requirements of the high-performing variety. The reasons for 
the failure of P. corethrurus  and H. africanus  to survive in the maize growth

experiments is unknown. P. corethrurus  does not occur in the Lamto area and H.

africanus  is found locally only in coconut plantations where more litter and 
locally higher organic matter levels are found.  Even M. anomala , which is 
adapted to these soils, failed to flourish in the absence of productive plants.

M. anomala  was better able to cope with the infertile soils in the presence of

P. maximum . This emphasizes the need to carefully select earthworms species 
based on their tolerance of particular soil and environmental conditions, if 
they are to be successfully employed to increase soil productivity.

Spain A., Lavelle P. and Mariotti A. (1992), Stimulation of plant growth by 
tropical earthworms. Soil Biology and Biochemistry 24, 1629-1633

Contact:

A.V. Spain, Davies Laboratory, CSIRO, Private Mail Bag, Aitkenvale, Queensland 
4814, Australia


-------------------------------------------------------
/\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\./\.
The International Ag-Sieve is a bimonthly collection of gleanings of the 
latest and most applicable information in the field of sustainable agriculture 
in the Tropics. Written for people working in the field in the developing 
world, the Ag-Sieve contains the technical information that the scientific 
community needs and the practical information the field worker can use, but 
does not require a Ph.D. or a dictionary to understand.

We link the work of the major agricultural centers, the insights of the 
farmer, the experience of the multidisciplinary development team, and the 
individual researcher into an eight page newsletter that highlights 
breakthroughs in sustainable agriculture. 

Our audience functions as an Information Exchange Network. Readers contribute 
information to the newsletter and also benefit from our reader information 
service.
Recent thematic issues cover the latest in tropical forest products, training 
opportunities, seeds, biodiversity, urban gardening and vegetable systems, 
women in agriculture, and agroforestry.
 
For those interested in hard copies write to:

International Ag-Sieve, Rodale Institute, 611 Siegfriedale Road, Kutztown, PA 
19530  Fax: 215/683-8548

or contact:

agsievefb.inbox@parti.inforum.org


From maclaine@ix.netcom.com Wed Feb  1 14:14:17 EST 1995
Article: 5264 of alt.sustainable.agriculture
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews
From: maclaine@ix.netcom.com (Brian MacLaine)
Newsgroups: alt.business.import-export,alt.hemp,alt.agriculture.misc,alt.sustainable.agriculture,sci.agriculture
Subject: Wormfarms
Date: 1 Feb 1995 15:07:40 GMT
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Company: East-West International, Export-Import Management
Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu alt.business.import-export:3545 alt.hemp:14347 alt.agriculture.misc:1863 alt.sustainable.agriculture:5264 sci.agriculture:2992


Distribution: World
Expires: January 30, 1995

This is a marketing research post to determine the level demand for
commercial worms of different types to be delivered by the pound to
any location worldwide. These worms will be suitable for use as bait,
composting, commercial applications in recycling biodegradable waste
and all other applications worms are normally used for.

To help defray costs of the research center we are establishing, we are
considering a large wormfarm that will be used partly for research into
recycling biodegradable waste and for the commercial production of
several types of worms.

Any individual, organization, business or government which may be
interested in using worms in the future to promote the effective
breakdown of all types of biodegradable materials and may be interested
in purchasing worms from a commercial grower, please let me know 
what demand you may have in about twelve months time. This will
assist us in our plans for the research center.

Please e-mail responses to maclaine@ix.netcom.com

TIA. Brian
-- 
Brian R MacLaine    Phone/FAX 909-769-0454
East-West International: Export-Import Management
PO Box 56254, Riverside, CA  92517-1154  USA


Article 19797 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv
From: nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA)
Subject: Re: Worms (was Re: Bamboo)
Message-ID: <nuferv.25@ohsu.edu>
Sender: news@ohsu.edu
Nntp-Posting-Host: 137.53.56.80
Organization: Oregon Health Sciences University
References: <den0.151.742494167@lehigh.edu> <CA2xGA.Eqo@cs.uiuc.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 21:45:54 GMT
Lines: 34

In article <CA2xGA.Eqo@cs.uiuc.edu> ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes:

>den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) writes:

>>We visted some friends yesterday who had a stand of bamboo.  They asked if 
>>we wanted some, and so we took some home.  My question is, what kind of soil 
>>does bamboo like?  It is tolerant of poor soil?  Also, does it like sun, 
>>shade, or some of both?  And, does it need a lot of water?  

>I know nothing of bamboo, except that it grows indoors in potting soil
>(no direct sun light) at my SO's work.

>>Right now I have it sitting in a pile of worm castings until I 
>>decide where to put it.  We live about 50 miles north of Philadelphia, and
>>our soil is pretty poor except where I've been adding a lot of compost, 
>>manure, and worm castings (I raise worms and have a good bit).

>This is what I'm interested in.  How do you grow worms?  Is there a FAQ
>on this?  Thanks for any info.


>ward

Ward,
I don't know if there is a FAQ on this, but a good reference is 
_Worms Eat My Garbage_ by Mary Appelhoff, Flower Press, 1982.

Places I know of to get the (red)worms themselves include:

Vermicast Products, Richard Matson, Portland, Oregon (503) 226-0816;
Smith Worms, (800) 252-5133 (Georgia); and
The Worm Concern, (805) 496-2872 (California)

-Marsie Nufer (nuferv@ohsu.edu)


Article 19797 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv
From: nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA)
Subject: Re: Worms (was Re: Bamboo)
Message-ID: <nuferv.25@ohsu.edu>
Sender: news@ohsu.edu
Nntp-Posting-Host: 137.53.56.80
Organization: Oregon Health Sciences University
References: <den0.151.742494167@lehigh.edu> <CA2xGA.Eqo@cs.uiuc.edu>
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 21:45:54 GMT
Lines: 34

In article <CA2xGA.Eqo@cs.uiuc.edu> ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes:

>den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) writes:

>>We visted some friends yesterday who had a stand of bamboo.  They asked if 
>>we wanted some, and so we took some home.  My question is, what kind of soil 
>>does bamboo like?  It is tolerant of poor soil?  Also, does it like sun, 
>>shade, or some of both?  And, does it need a lot of water?  

>I know nothing of bamboo, except that it grows indoors in potting soil
>(no direct sun light) at my SO's work.

>>Right now I have it sitting in a pile of worm castings until I 
>>decide where to put it.  We live about 50 miles north of Philadelphia, and
>>our soil is pretty poor except where I've been adding a lot of compost, 
>>manure, and worm castings (I raise worms and have a good bit).

>This is what I'm interested in.  How do you grow worms?  Is there a FAQ
>on this?  Thanks for any info.


>ward

Ward,
I don't know if there is a FAQ on this, but a good reference is 
_Worms Eat My Garbage_ by Mary Appelhoff, Flower Press, 1982.

Places I know of to get the (red)worms themselves include:

Vermicast Products, Richard Matson, Portland, Oregon (503) 226-0816;
Smith Worms, (800) 252-5133 (Georgia); and
The Worm Concern, (805) 496-2872 (California)

-Marsie Nufer (nuferv@ohsu.edu)


Article 6943 of misc.rural:
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Organization: Penn State University
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1993 13:42:29 EST
From: <CJC6$@psuvm.psu.edu>
Message-ID: <93316.134229CJC6$@psuvm.psu.edu>
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Vermi-Composting
References: <1993Nov11.225012.10749@cnsvax.uwec.edu>
Lines: 46


> From: lockekt@cnsvax.uwec.edu
> Message-ID: <1993Nov11.225012.10749@cnsvax.uwec.edu>

> Does anyone out there "Vermi-compost?

> Just curious.

> Thanks
> Kelly


I'v been "raising" worms for about a year now in the basement of my house.
So far, the little critters have done ok and the cats have left the boxes
alone.  I built two boxes from 1"x6" boards.  I use one for a while until it
gets filled, and then move the worms to the other box and let the first box
sit and cook for a while longer.  After a month or so, I empty the box and
let it dry out before using again.

I've never sold worms.  I just let them die a natural death and become
a part of the compost.

My house plants seem to like the compost and I planted my saffron
crocuses in a mix of garden soil and worm compost.  They have done great.

I have not had a problem with worm tea, but I cover with a black plastic
trash bag so some moisture escapes that way.  Some also escapes out the
bottom where the boards meet.  I raised the boxes slightly and they sit near
one of the floor drains.  I have not noticed any mositure on the floor.

You may have more of a concern with this being in an apartment.  I believe
Real Goods sells a worm compost box with a spout to remove worm tea.  This
could then be added to plants as fertilzer.  You might give them a call at
(800)762-7325 and ask for a catalogue.

I use a mixed bedding: chopped up pizza boxes, a *very* little manure, a
little dirt, some peat moss and some shredded newspaper.  The pizza boxes
because I work with a group of students at Penn State who eat much late
night pizza and I hated seeing the waste basket full of unrecycled material.
The worms do not seem to be affected by it.  I use this strange combo,
because that is what I had on hand the first time and it seems to work.

Best of luck.

Margaret



Article 6958 of misc.rural:
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From: aud@ncd.com (Audrey Ishizaki)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Vermi-Composting
Date: 15 Nov 1993 12:22:23 -0800
Organization: Network Computing Devices, Inc
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References: <1993Nov11.225012.10749@cnsvax.uwec.edu> <93316.134229CJC6$@psuvm.psu.edu>
Reply-To: aud@ncd.com
NNTP-Posting-Host: verbosa.ncd.com


I've used worms to eat my kitchen scraps for several years, now.  I've used
a couple of different methods.  I live in California (SF Bay area), which
has mild winters (rarely freezes).  I've come to keep my worms outside, in
home-made worm boxes.  I get a problem with fruit-flies when I keep them
indoors.  How do others avoid this problem?

I've used shredded newspaper/computer paper (I used the office shredder -
very easy and cheap!) as filler, but now used peat moss (bought at the
garden supply store) (be sure to pre-moisten the peat).  I've used
styrofoam coolers (with air holes drilled in the tops), but they chipped
after a while.  I've also used styrofoam "chests" used to transport frozen
seafood, which worked better.  I'm now experimenting with a plastic box
with holes drilled into the bottom (to encourage the worms to aereate the
soil beneath my box (I plan to move it periodically in my garden).  After
I dump the kitchen scraps in the box, I sprinkle the peat over the top
(to help cover the food scraps and to accelerate the rotting - worms like
their food soft - not much teeth!).

I had to devise a "lock" for my box, too, to prevent my dog from unwanted
entry (I used plastic locking ties and a couple of clips).  He can't open
the box any longer, but he sometimes knocks it over.

I'm really happy having worms to "compost" my kitchen scraps - especially
during the winter, when I don't want to walk all the way out to the compost
bins.

audrey ishizaki


Article 27293 of rec.gardens:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.intercon.com!panix!not-for-mail
From: fishman@panix.com (Harvey Fishman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: vermiculture
Date: 2 Mar 1994 20:06:38 -0500
Organization: Flatulent Flatlands Flea Flickers
Lines: 44
Message-ID: <2l3d6u$scq@panix.com>
References: <9402222303.AA29709@im8>
NNTP-Posting-Host: panix.com

In <9402222303.AA29709@im8> dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) says

> In article: <1994Feb22.022710.27757@k12.ucs.umass.edu>
>     jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) asks:
> >I have several students interested in investigating vermiculture.  I have
> >ordered the book "Worms Eat My Garbage", but would like some advise.  Where
> >can I purchase red worms for this purpose?  Would they have them at a bait
> >shop?  Thanks for any help......Jeff
>  
> I was looking for the same information.  Bait shops charge an arm and a 
> leg for worms, too much for amounts used in vermiculture.  I checked out 
> the ads in the back of Organic Gardening and Fine Gardening magazines and 
> found a couple of places in the south which mail order worms in quantity 
> at more reasonable prices.  I decided to wait for warmer weather to 
> order, so my worms won't die in shipment. Now that it's starting to 
> warm up, I've misplaced the addresses so I suppose I'll have to go down 
> to the library and look them up again.
>  
> Good luck on your search.
>  
> If anyone can recommend some worm farms as better than others, I'm sure 
> some of us would like to hear about it.

Speaking without much knowledge of the subject, I note that on page 38 of
the Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co. 1994 Catalogue, there is an offering
of Red Hybrid Worms.  The price is $19.95 for a pack of 500 ($18.95 for 2
or more) or $43.95 for a pack of 2000 ($41.85 for 2 or more).  I do not
know if these are the worms that you seek; they are advertised as "The
natural way to aerate your garden soil!"

	Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co.
	415 North Burnett
	Shenandoah, Iowa 51602

Harvey

--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Harvey Fishman   |            There is no greater failure than
fishman@panix.com |                that of making an enemy.
  718-258-7276    |


                                                                                                                  


Article 26942 of rec.gardens:
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From: rreid@rreid.mentorg.com (Richard Reid)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: vermiculture
Date: 23 Feb 1994 17:04:31 GMT
Organization: mentor
Lines: 21
Sender: rreid@rreid (Richard Reid)
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <2kg2av$8vt@hpbab.wv.mentorg.com>
References: <9402222303.AA29709@im8>
NNTP-Posting-Host: rreid.wv.mentorg.com

I started a Worm Box last August and just did my second turn
in replacing the bedding.  I got the worms by calling the local
Recycling Organization-- who in turn gave me the name of a local
worm grower.  We then set up a rondavous.  I know he will also
ship em, or so he said.

	Richard Matson
	VermaCast Products
	103 N.W. Pittock AVE
	Portland, Oregon 97210
	(503) 226 - 0816 

As I remember they where about 12 dollars per pound.


-- 
Rick Reid
rreid@wv.mentorg.com  -- Mentor Graphics Corporation
"I belong to no organized party.  I'm a democrat."
                - Will Rogers



Article 27434 of rec.gardens:
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From: gkiewicz@oeonline.com (Pat & George Kiewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: vermiculture
Message-ID: <46@oeonline.UUCP>
Date: 3 Mar 94 15:14:23 GMT
References: <9402222303.AA29709@im8> <2l3d6u$scq@panix.com>
Sender: coconet@oeonline.UUCP
Lines: 54

[various people ask about sources of worms for vermiculture]

> Speaking without much knowledge of the subject, I note that on page 38 of
> the Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co. 1994 Catalogue, there is an offering
> of Red Hybrid Worms.  The price is $19.95 for a pack of 500 ($18.95 for 2
> or more) or $43.95 for a pack of 2000 ($41.85 for 2 or more).  I do not
> know if these are the worms that you seek; they are advertised as "The
> natural way to aerate your garden soil!"
> 
> 	Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co.
> 	415 North Burnett
> 	Shenandoah, Iowa 51602
> 
> Harvey
> 
> --
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>  Harvey Fishman   |            There is no greater failure than
> fishman@panix.com |                that of making an enemy.
>   718-258-7276    |
> 
> 
>                                                                                                                   
A couple of other sources I can mention:

Gardener's Supply
128 Intervale Rd.
Burlington VT 05401
TEL 1-800-444-6417

'Red Wiggler's' item #2-232
2 pounds $24.95 + S/H

This is the company which supplied MY worms.  They are shipped to you directly
from the 'grower'.  2# should be 2,000+ worms.  The worms were young and thus
easily adjusted to their new home after shipment.  My husband ordered an entire
kit (worms, bin, and Ms. Appelhof's book) as a birthday present for me -- and it
was just what I wanted!!!

Redworms can also be bought through Gardens Alive! (500/$19.95 1,000/$27.95 + S/H)
Henry Fields beats them on the S/H charges.

I've also read that worms can be purchased from Ms. Appelhof's Flowerfield
Enterprise, but I have no idea of the going rate.  TEL (616)327-0108.  


Hope this information proves useful.  I *love* my worm-bin.  
-- 
//Pat Kiewicz\\

gkiewicz@oeonline.com

"Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn."
-- Garrison Keillor


From DBCHC@aol.comSat Nov 26 11:44:32 1994
Date: Fri, 25 Nov 1994 19:03:57 -0500
From: DBCHC@aol.com
To: london@sunsite.unc.edu
Subject: Re: worm list

WORM SUPPLIERS

Avant Garden Vermicomposting Systems
PO Box 1303
Ross, CA 94957
(415) 488-1642

Rainbow Worm Farm
24700 County Road 95
Davis, CA 95616
(916) 758-9906

Cape Cod Worm Farm
30 Center Avenue
Buzzards Bay, MA 02532
(508) 759-5664

From dbchc@aol.com Wed Dec  7 16:21:46 EST 1994
Article: 48937 of rec.gardens
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From: dbchc@aol.com (DBCHC)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: worm address
Date: 7 Dec 1994 00:00:44 -0500
Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364)
Lines: 20
Sender: news@newsbf01.news.aol.com
Message-ID: <3c3fhs$emr@newsbf01.news.aol.com>
References: <jdurkinD08oo5.7IJ@netcom.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf01.news.aol.com

In article <jdurkinD08oo5.7IJ@netcom.com>, jdurkin@netcom.com (Jim Durkin)
writes:

WORM SUPPLIERS

Avant Garden Vermicomposting Systems
PO Box 1303
Ross, CA 94957
(415) 488-1642

Rainbow Worm Farm
24700 County Road 95
Davis, CA 95616
(916) 758-9906

Cape Cod Worm Farm
30 Center Avenue
Buzzards Bay, MA 02532
(508) 759-5664



Article 13541 of rec.gardens:
Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly
From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: worm composting
Date: 10 Feb 1993 18:55:33 GMT
Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena
Lines: 38
Message-ID: <1lbj35INNsdm@gap.caltech.edu>
References: <1CE00001.psqtv5@tbomb.ice.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: sandman.caltech.edu

In article <1CE00001.psqtv5@tbomb.ice.com> time@ice.com (Tim Endres) writes:
>Also can anyone tell me how many worms one needs to eat a gallon
>pail of kitchen scraps a day and how much space they need?
>Karen
>karen@ice.com 

The following is advice from the book Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary
Appelhof...

To determine what size of worm bin is best for your household, you
need to figure how many pounds of garbage you produce per day. So
go ahead and weigh out how much you have at the end of the week, and
divide by 7. So if I have 7 pounds of garbage at the end of the week,
that is about a pound of garbage per day, average. 

Mary recommends a ratio of 2:1 for worms:average-garbage-produced-per-day,
so if about 1 pound of garbage is produced per day, you'll need 2 pounds
of worms. She says there are about 2000 bedrun size redworms in a pound.
(Bedrun worms are worms of all sizes, while 'breeders' are large worms
that are handpicked for fishing purposes. Mary recommends the bedruns
since they are cheaper (don't need to be handpicked) and reproduce and
ship as well as the breeders in the long run. She doesn't feel a bin
gets started any quicker if you chose the breeder size worms.)
[That 2:1 ratio means the *total* worms you'll need, not the amount of
worms you'll need to add per day :) ]

Since redworms are surface feeders you'll want a bin with a large
surface area, for the pound of garbage produced per day, a large bin
with about 7 square feet is recommended, or one with dimensions of
about 1' deep by 2' wide by 3' long. Most commercial bins I have seen
advertised are about 24"x20"x12", which just means you'd need two of
them for a large household with lots of trash. I like using multiple
smaller bins, since they are lighter, easier to move when/if full, and
if I accidentally overfeed one, not all my bins are ruined.

Kelly
kelly@cco.caltech.edu



From jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.orgSat Feb 11 10:25:50 1995
Date: Thu, 09 Feb 1995 23:03:00 +0600
From: Jim Mcnelly <jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org>
To: london@calypso-2.oit.unc.edu
Subject: WORMFARMS


Larry, my mail reader and "gateway" do not provide for follow up 
replies. I am sending this to alt.agriculture.misc and 
alt.sustainable.agriculture. Could you please forward it for me? Thanks.



Brian MacLaine writes on several newsgroups:
References: <3go83s$4ur@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> 

BM> This is a marketing research post to determine the level demand for
BM> commercial worms of different types to be delivered by the pound to
BM> any location worldwide. These worms will be suitable for use as
BM> bait, composting, commercial applications in recycling biodegradable
BM> waste and all other applications worms are normally used for.

First off Brian, none of the worms suitable for bait are also very good 
vermicomposters or vermistabilizers. Lumbricus terrestris, the common 
nightcrawler, is the preferred bait worm, capturing over 90% of the bait 
market. Government statistics, which I am certain you have already 
investigated, show this worm to capture a market around $100 million per 
year (to the grower) for bait. This worm lives in permanent burrows in 
the soil and has a complex symbiotic relationship with soil tilth, 
available organic matter on the surface, temperature, and precipitation. 
All attempts to remove them from permanent burrows for intensive 
cultivation have failed, however. Perhaps you considering the 
exotic species Perionix Excavatus or one of the several species of 
Pheretima for bait? I might be interested in making a market for them if 
you are ready to raise them.

The two worms suited for vermistabilization or vermicomposting, of which 
I am assured that you know the regulatory difference, are eisenia 
foetida and lumbricus rubella. Neither have shown themselves to be good 
bait worms, with the national market estimated at a few million dollars 
per year spread over hundreds of worm growers. These people make their 
market based on service in warm water panfish markets. Five other 
species of worms have been identified as potential organic matter 
stabilizers, but are quite temperamental as regards temperature, 
feedstock, and other environmental factors. Of these, only eudrillus 
eugenia is a decent bait worm, but its temperature specifications over 
70F and finicky feed requirements make it a poor candidate for managing 
organics residuals.

As far as the value of redworms as a protein source, they are comparable 
to fish meal which sells for $400+ per ton on the commodities market. 
To meet this specification, they must be dried to over 90% moisture and 
sold by the box car or train load. They must also be free of 
contaminants and pathogens. At 80% moisture live, this equates to a 
price between $.05 and $.10 per lb. I am prepared to pay $.10 per pound 
for live redworms by the ton.

If you are producing earthworm castings, worm egesta as a result of 
vermistabilization, not vermicomposting, I am prepared to enter into a 
marketing agreement to purchase worm castings at $15 per ton in 
quantities of at least twenty tons per day, freight on board, within 200 
miles of the twenty USA metropolitan areas. They must be dried to at 
least 35% moisture and screened at 3/8" mesh. They must also pass the 
fusarium suppression test in order to be certified.

BM> To help defray costs of the research center we are establishing, we
BM> are considering a large wormfarm that will be used partly for
BM> research into recycling biodegradable waste and for the commercial
BM> production of several types of worms.

Have you read the available literature on the subject, particularly 
Edwards and Neuhauser's "Earthworms in Environmental and Waste 
Management"? What about the EPA's report on the role of earthworms in 
the stabilization of Sewage Sludge 1985? Have you attended any of the 
five international symposiums on Earthworms and the Environment? Which 
professors and universities are you working with? What is the extent of 
your experience in working in the organics residuals management 
industry? Can you name the top companies currently using terrestrial 
invertebrates in organics management in the USA?  In the world?

BM> Any individual, organization, business or government which may be
BM> interested in using worms in the future to promote the effective
BM> breakdown of all types of biodegradable materials and may be
BM> interested in purchasing worms from a commercial grower, please let
BM> me know what demand you may have in about twelve months time. This
BM> will assist us in our plans for the research center.

As a person who has worked with earthworms and organics management for 
over twenty years, I can state with certainty that no serious enterprise 
in the vermistabilization, vermiculture, or vermicomposting 
industry would ever consider purchasing more than a few hundred pounds 
of earthworms. Someone entering the industry would surely know how to 
manage their environmental conditions such that they could achieve 
exponential reproductive rates in a matter of months, making a few 
hundred pounds convert into thousands of tons within a year. Why would 
they purchase worms if they knew what they are doing? If they do not 
know what they are doing, they will be "one time" buyers and not the 
sort of client you will want to base a profitable enterprise upon. 

Now if you have a means of producing Lumbricus Terrestris, the common 
nightcrawler, I am prepared to enter into contracts to purchase them in 
quantities of tons per week during the months of July through September 
at the rate of $.03 each weighing approximately 300 worms to the pound.

Do you need a consultant? How much money have you raised? Do you have 
any contracts to process organic residuals? How much per ton and what 
type of materials?

BM> Please e-mail responses to maclaine@ix.netcom.com

Best of luck,

Mr Compost~~~

Jim~ McNelly
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org


Jim~ McNelly
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org



Jim~ McNelly
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org


 * RM 1.3 02460 * Nitrate:  Lower than the day rate.

------------------============<>=============-----------------
   Granite City Connection (612) 654-8372 28.8K 3 Lines
   Email: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly)
------------------============<>=============-----------------
From schrbman@is2.nyu.eduThu Jan  4 22:23:47 1996
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 20:14:52 -0500 (EST)
From: Kathie Grace Schreibman <schrbman@is2.nyu.edu>
Reply to: Community_Forestry_Discussion <tree-house@lists.umbc.edu>
To: Community_Forestry_Discussion <tree-house@lists.umbc.edu>
Cc: tree-house@lists.umbc.edu
Subject: Re: TH: About EarthWorms ...

A couple of comments on recent the recent worm posting:

Worms are attracted to any dead plant matter (or animal matter) but they 
prefer fresh green matter to almost everything except manure.  Thus the 
reason that the worms probably preferred the clover to other mulches is 
that the other mulches were of the bark/husk/chip variety and not soft 
and green like the clover.

moles by the way love worms.  Yum.

Lisa
:
>Where can I get the little red worms
>that are supposed to be so good for
>indoor composting?  I tried some
>live bait shops in town and found
>nothing.

The January 1992 issue of Organic Gardening has an article on worms and
composting, "Compost Indoors! Worms Do the Work".  It gives instructions
on building a worm box (although one is available from Gardener's
Supply).  It also tells how to get the box started and what kind of
worms to use.

The correct type are redworms (aka red wiggles or manure worms).  The are
small compared to most earthworms.  Their temperature range is 40 to 90
degrees, whereas, earthworms prefer temperature around 55 degrees.  Earth-
worms also require burrows to breed.  A worm box is too warm and too
small for them...and they tend to escape whenever possible.  Red worms
stay put.

The article is written by Mary Appelhof, author of "Worms Eat My Garbage".
The book is $10.95 including shipping and handling and is available from:
        Flower Press,
        10332 Shaver Road
        Kalamazzo Mi 49002

The list of companies carry supplies:
        Cape Cod Worm Farm
        30 Center Ave
        Buzzards Bay. Ma 02532

        Carter Fishworm Farm
        Plains Georgia 31780

        Early Bird Ecology
        RR1
        Smithville, Ont
        canada L0R 2A0

        Gardener's Supply
        128 Intervale Road
        Burlington, Vt 05401

        Redworms, C/o Ron Clausen
        2111 N. Century Blvd
        McDavid Fl 32568

        Snooks Worm Farm
        Box 14
        Harold Fl 32563

I notice that the Burpee Gardens 1992 catalog has an add for
"Red Hybrid Earthworms".  It says they range from 1/4 to 3"
long.  Are these redworms?  Will hybrid worms breed true to
type?  (Maybe I shouldn't use the term breed, given the way
worms reproduce.)  How do they make a hybrid?  I assume the
idea is to get the worms to reproduce in your compost pile,
as they only send 500 for $19.95!

I one reply I got on worms so far:

>For 2000 bedrun (various sizes where 'breeder' are the larger size.
>According to the book 'worms eat my garbage' the bedrun are recommended since
>they are cheaper, breed just as well, and may survive shipping better)
>redworms, it was 21.00, and with tax that is 22.31 (back in June)

>Are bedrun a variety of redworm or something else?
>Which variety eats the most?  (Oooh you pig worm!)

One response indicated that redworms do well in 40 to 90 deg. F.
earthworms don't do as well.  They also like to escape.

What can we say about bedruns?  (Or again are they a specific
variety of redworm, doing as well with temperatures and
housing conditions.)

>I notice that the Burpee Gardens 1992 catalog has an add for
>"Red Hybrid Earthworms".  It says they range from 1/4 to 3"
>long.  Are these redworms?  Will hybrid worms breed true to
>type?  (Maybe I shouldn't use the term breed, given the way
>worms reproduce.)  How do they make a hybrid?  I assume the
>idea is to get the worms to reproduce in your compost pile,
>as they only send 500 for $19.95!

>Are bedrun a variety of redworm or something else?
There are two different sizes' of worms, in a sense. 
The 'Breeders' are hand selected to be a
certain size, usually around the maximum three inches. The idea is these
are the ones you buy if you want to start breeding worms. Because they
hand select these, they cost more (5 or 10 bucks or so, per 1000) than
'Bedrun' worms. Bedrun means 'mixed sizes, randomly selected'. So if
you saw an ad saying '2000 bedrun Redworms, 19.95 and 2000 'breeder'
redworms , for 25.00' you'd know the difference and why one costs more than
the other.
In the book "Worms Eat My Garbage", the author says that bedrun worms are
fine to buy, since she feels they might survive shipping better, and
adapt more quickly, and she doesn't feel there is any significant reason
to spend the extra money on a 'breeder' worms ...
>Which variety eats the most?
You want the compost worms, red wigglers, redworms, the 'tiny' worms, not
anything called 'earthworms'.
>What can we say about bedruns?  (Or again are they a specific
>variety of redworm, doing as well with temperatures and
>housing conditions.)
Bedrun just describes the size range of the worm you'll be getting. Its a
mixed size range.

Someone who was interested in ordering lots of worms for *fishing* would
be interested in this since he'd want big worms for his hooks and would
probably only order breeders. That's why they have the two different size
choices...

>I have some large pickle or planter crocks about two feet high
>and 18" wide.  I thought of raising worms in these in my basement.
>Is a ceramic crock a good container, or just a waste?

Well, it doesn't 'breathe', its sealed, right? I would say you'd want
something wider, and not quite as 'deep'. It might work, might not, i really
don't know, but if you're serious and have some scrap wood lying around,
then go for making the worm boxes described in the January issue of Organic
Gardening, or the '1-2-3' worm box (which is just a box that is one foot
deep, two feet wide and three feet long, for best results, use a finely
screened lid to keep out fruitflies which become a nuisance after time...the
box has about 9, 1" drain holes on the bottom. This should be sufficiant
size to hold 2000 worms...)

The book "Worms Eat My Garbage" is a great reference and a must read for anyone
seriously into worm-composting....!



According to several of the books I read on raising worms, the "Hybrid"
designation is pure hype. No one has been able to prove a true hybrid exists.
The differences are usually tracked down to superior feed and conditions rather
than any difference in breeding. For composting, you don't need to get into
raising the biggest fattest worms, anyway. You just want enough worms to eat
enough garbage. I started with worms dug from under a horse manure pit for
free, and have had nothing but good results, even when I added them to my
outside compost bins (after they cooled a bit).
:
:
Article 12661 (50 more) in rec.gardens:
From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.)
Subject: Re: Worms and Home Composting in Winter
Date: 31 Dec 92 05:45:05 GMT

In article <1htjioINN4pu@access.usask.ca> goldie@herald.usask.ca 
(Hugh Goldie) writes:
>I recently saw part of a Canadian news program from Winnipeg, about indoor
>composting with red worms.  I would be very thankful if someone could e-mail
>or post some details about this, particularly where to get worms and how to
>get started.  It is -37 degrees centigrade in Saskabush right now and my
>outdoor compost heap is probably working rather slowly... :-).

Organic Gardening magazine had an article on this topic in the January 92
issue, by Mary Appelhof who wrote the book "Worms Eat My Garbage". The
issue has plans for a *very* nice wormbin that fits well on a porch and
doubles as a bench. It also included the following sources:

Worms Eat My Garbage (book) for $10.50 (includ shipping) from:
Flower Press
10332 Shaver Road
Kalamazoo, MI 49002

Mary Appelhof also sells vermicomposting supplies including redworms
and her latest worm composting system (a plastic rectangular container
designed for indoor use, called 'The Worms Eat My Garbage Worm-a-way'
made of recycled plastic manufactured by We recycle Corp. of
Milton, Ont. Its manufacture provides employment for developmentally
disabled individuals.)

Write to:
Flowerfield Enterprises
10332 Shaver Road
Kalamazoo, MI 49002
(616) 327-0108

Also listed were:

Cape Cod Worm Farm
30 Center Ave.
Buzzards Bay, MA 02532

Carter Fishworm Farm
Plains, GA 31780

Early Bird Ecology
RR1
Smithville, ONT
Canada L0R 2A0
(Not sure what they sell, but i would guess worms, and the plastic bin,
perhaps the book.)

Gardener's Supply
128 Intervale Rd
Burlington, VT 05401
Free catalog, they sell the plastic bin, book and worms, and all three as
a deal i believe.

Redworms c/o Ron Clausen
2111 N. Century Blvd
McDavid, FL 32568

Snooks Worm Farm
Box 14 
Harold, FL 32563

May I also add:
Rainbow Worm Farm
24700 County Road No. 95
Davis, CA 95616
(916) 758-9906

I paid 21.00 (plus tax so it came to 22.31) for about two pounds
of bedrun redworms, and they are very nice people. You *won't* get a
'flyer{ from them saying 'raising earthworms are so easy, even your
wife could do it' as i got some certain farms located in places like
georgia...:-) 

I've had bins (1'x 2'x 3' in size, 2 of them, made out of scrap wood
with drainage holes,) outside for almost two years now, and i *love*
them. I've had no problems with rats or flies or anything, they smell
like dirt, not rotting stuff, and its just magic how my foodstuffs are
turned into wonderful rich compost. I followed the directions in Mary's
book, its a great book, and so is the OG article, and if your library
has it, its free.

I haven't tried her bin, nor seen one in person, so i can't comment
on that.

Kelly
kelly@cco.caltech.edu
:
Article 17804 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!ames!ncar!noao!stsci!yen
From: yen@stsci.edu (Felix Yen)
Subject: re: red earthworms
Message-ID: <1993May28.170217.1939@stsci.edu>
Sender: news@stsci.edu
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 17:02:17 GMT
Lines: 39


David C. Adams (dadams@cray.com) writes:
>  Gardens Alive offers 500 red earthworms for $19.95.  I think this is a 
>  pretty steep price.  It seems that I have seen a better price somewhere.
>  Does anyone know?

Bountiful Gardens is charging a "mere" $15.00 for 500.  But before you
order from them or anyone else, make sure you're getting the right
species of worm for your application.  "Red earthworms" are probably
Lumbricus rubellus which are fairly easy to buy and nice for composting,
but they won't do well in your garden unless your soil is quite rich.

Another common variety is the night crawler (Lumbricus terrestris) which
also has some nice properties, e.g. they are deep burrowers and don't
require as much food, but they aren't as active as other species and
they're migratory.  Thinking that my garden is a virtual worm prison,
it being surrounded by concrete slabs and brick/stone walls, I implanted
some Canadian night crawlers in the shady corner.  One year later, while
removing part of a brick path about 2 feet underground (I was digging a
pit for assorted plant refuse), a large worm crawled out from beneath a
brick.  He/she was either one of the original Canadians (African night
crawlers simply will not do at all) or one of his/her offspring.  In any
case, it clearly was not doing my plants much good hanging out underneath
a layer of bricks.

The best worms for garden use are common field worms (Allolobophora
caliginosa) even if they're slow reproducers, and swamp worms (Pheretima)
but both are hard to buy.  I have yet to find a Pheretima dealer, but did
manage to transplant a few earlier this year.  (Live, damn it!)

Your best bet might be buying castings or cocoons/eggs of an appropriate
species.  Last year, Gardener's Supply sold night crawler cocoons (I don't
get their catalogue anymore) and Bountiful Gardens sells castings, but
their catalogue does not indicate what species of worms/castings they are
selling.  The curious may call them at (707) 459 6410.


Felix
yen@stsci.edu


From ittomw@ucdavis.edu Fri Aug 26 22:03:10 EDT 1994
Article: 42128 of rec.gardens
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!Tom.Wilcox
From: ittomw@ucdavis.edu (Tom Wilcox)
Subject: Re: worms
Message-ID: <Cv01vK.1FA@ucdavis.edu>
X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0@rocky.ucdavis.edu.
Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[7719]
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Date: Tue, 23 Aug 1994 17:57:20 GMT
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Lines: 23

In article <32vv7j$nov@news.umbc.edu>
bolognes@umbc.edu (Ms. Cynthia Bolognese; (BIOL; GRAD)) writes:

> Hi, I'm looking for sources of 'red wrigglers' for vermicomposting. 
> Can anyone give me some addresses? Thanks in advance!

Cindy, I just bought some worms from a farm nearby.  Here is their
address:

Rainbow Worm Farm
24700 County Road 95
Davis, Calif. 95616

916-758-9906
916-756-0414

This is a company that supplies worms to major gardening catalogs. 
They are really friendly and will answer any questions you might have. 
We made a worm box last week from a plastic bin (storage locker) from
Walmart.  It is similar to the worm boxes in gardening catalogs, but
much less expensive.  A wooden box would be even less.  Hope this helps
. . . enjoy your worms!




