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Re: earthworms



One of the main workers in this field is Dr. Geoff Baker at the Div. of
Entomology in Adelaide his full address is:
Dr. Geoff Baker,
Div. of Entomology,
P.M.B. 2
Glen Osmond 5064
South Australia,
Australia

Phone 61-83038469
FAX  61-83038549

He doesn't have e-mail though I am putting the pressure on.

One method of getting earthworm free space that he uses is by usin a core
(PVC, around 400 cm diameter) tube during the dry season when worms go deep
and aestivate, by placing mesh at the bottom of the core tube at this time
it stops the reentry of any earthworms and voila!

Hope this helps, he is a font of knowledge on the subject.

James

Dr. James Coupland                                              Tel. (33)
67593103
CSIRO Biological Control Unit
Campus International de Baillarguet                    Tel. (33) 67593100
Switchboard
Montferrier sur Lez,                                                 Fax
(33) 67599040
34982 France



------------ End Forwarded Message -------------


------------ End Forwarded Message -------------


Tue 20 Jul 93 16:43
By: Tom Ezell
Re: Worm Composting



How to Create Vermicompost

To create your own vermicompost system you must hove the proper
container, bedding, type of worm, and organic waste. The following
instructions will give you some guidelines for the production of a
vermicompost system,

1.)  Containers. Make sure homemade containers have not been made from
pressure treated wood and have never stored any kind of chemicals.
Exterior grade plywood is probably best for durability. Aeration holes
should be placed on the sides of the box, and a lid of some sort should
be used to keep insects and animals out of the bin. The average 1-foot
high, 2-feet deep and 3-feet wide (1'h x 2'd x 3'w) box will handle
about 6 lbs. of garbage per week.

2.)  Bedding. Cellulose-based bedding is recommended because it provides
moisture retention and aeration. As the worms search for food they
tunnel through and consume bedding, replacing it with worm castings. The
perfect bedding mixture for the bin size above is 10 lbs. of shredded
newspaper, a gallon of garden soil, and 4 gallons of water (which makes
this environment about 75% moisture).

3.)  Type of Worm. The required worm for vermicompost is the redworm
(also known as red wigglers or manure worms). These worms ore ideal for
composting because they are able to consume the equivalent of their own
weight each day, can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, and
reproduce well in the environment provided for them in a vermicompost
bin.  For the bin dimensions and amount of bedding described above, the
recommended number of worms to start with is opproximately 1,200 to
2,400 (2 lbs) redworms.

4.) Food Supply. The redworm will consume almost all normal kitchen
scraps. However it is important to avoid putting meat scraps, bones,
and dairy products in the bin as they could produce strong odors and
attract animals.  When just beginning your vermicompost practices, it is
suggested that you start off slowly, giving the worms between 2 or 3
lbs. of garbage per week.

5.) Location of Bin. Worm bins should be located where access to them
is convenient and temperatures are relatively moderate. Bins may be
placed in basements. patios, porches, utility rooms, or even kitchens.


Information Sources for Vermicomposting:

Appelhof, Mary. 'Worms do the Work', Organic Gardening. January
1992, pp. 58-63,
Appelhof, Mary, _ Worms in My Garbage_ , Flower Press, 1982.
Robert Kourik, "As the Worm Turns",  _Garbage_,  January-February 1992,
pp. 48-51


Ordering Information for  Vermicompost Systems and Supplies

Flowerfield Enterprises
10332 Shaver Rood
Kalamazoo, Ml 49002
(616) 327-0108

Smith and Hawken
25  Corte Modera
Mill Volley, CA 94941
(410) 383-2000

Gardeners Supply Co.
128 lntervale Rood
Burlington VT 05401
(800) 955-3370

 * SLMR 2.1a * Math and Alcohol don't mix.  Please don't drink & derive.
 * Origin: Environment Arkansas! Little Rock  501-570-2868 (1:3821/16)

Article 31745 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: More vermicomposting ques
From: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly)
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Distribution: world
Message-ID: <36.617.2817.0N429D25@granite.mn.org>
Date: Thu,  5 May 94 00:15:00 +0600
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Lines: 64

Subject: More vermicomposting questions

April writes in May:

T>1) I seem to have received a mixture of nightcrawlers and redworms,
 >   instead of all redworms as promised by the company.  Will this
 >   make a huge difference?  I know that they like different kinds
 >   of substrate, but what if I offered them a mixture? (I'm not in the
 >   mood to sort 500 worms now or ever)

I know the feeling April.  One of my mottos is to never count chickens,
hatched or not.

T>2) How much room do I need to provide per worm? (Say, worms/square inch)

Since redworms and nightcrawlers do not live in the same habitat, you
need to place the mixture in an environment where the nightcrawlers
(lumbricus terrestris) can burrow in the native soil below.  Most
nightcrawlers, if they are so old and large that you can tell them from
redworms, will be unable to excavate a new burrow.  They typically grow
a burrow from childhood and live in it all their life, shaving a little
off the sides periodically as they mature.  For an adult worm to create
a new tunnel network when they are fat and lazy is asking a lot.

But it can be done if your soil is soft, there is a good mulch layer
above the soil that is kept undisturbed, and you provide plenty of
moisture.  Placing your mixture into an old compost mixed with peat and
or shredded corrugated is a good mix.  Then place a two inch layer of
wet, fresh, horse manure (make sure not recently de-wormed!) and the red
worms will come up to the top and the nightcrawlers will stay below to
burrow.

T>3) How fresh should the veggies be that I feed to them?

If you are using redworms to cure compost, a process called
vermistabilization, you should compost your table scraps first and feed
the compost to the worms in thin layers when the compost is hot and
active.  If you are looking to have the worms *do it all*, a process
called vermicomposting, then you can add fresh table scraps right to the
worm beds.  You need at least two parts bedding to one part table
scraps, making sure to bury the scraps thoroughly.

You can have upwards of 3,500 worms per cubic foot with a maximum of
7,000.  The minimum is around 500.  Do not feed the worms any more than
they can eat in any given area in more than two weeks.  Stated
otherwise, it takes a pound of worms to eat a pound of daily feed.  Bear
in mind that you will also have to remove a pound per day of old worm
castings too.  This can be done either on a continuous basis from the
bottom of the worm bed or periodically using a batch technique.

I assume that you have Mary Appelhof's book, "Worms Eat My Garbage".....

Most of these answers are in her book.

Lots of luck. It sounds like you are on your way to a successful
earthworm culture.

Mr Compost~~~

Jim~ McNelly
ReSourceNet and GardenNet 612-654-8372, 656-0678 v.32bis
jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org
---
 * May 4th - Let me see.... Now how does that twit filter work?


Article 19797 of rec.gardens:
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From: nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA)
Subject: Re: Worms (was Re: Bamboo)
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In article <CA2xGA.Eqo@cs.uiuc.edu> ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes:

>den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) writes:

>>We visted some friends yesterday who had a stand of bamboo.  They asked if 
>>we wanted some, and so we took some home.  My question is, what kind of soil 
>>does bamboo like?  It is tolerant of poor soil?  Also, does it like sun, 
>>shade, or some of both?  And, does it need a lot of water?  

>I know nothing of bamboo, except that it grows indoors in potting soil
>(no direct sun light) at my SO's work.

>>Right now I have it sitting in a pile of worm castings until I 
>>decide where to put it.  We live about 50 miles north of Philadelphia, and
>>our soil is pretty poor except where I've been adding a lot of compost, 
>>manure, and worm castings (I raise worms and have a good bit).

>This is what I'm interested in.  How do you grow worms?  Is there a FAQ
>on this?  Thanks for any info.


>ward

Ward,
I don't know if there is a FAQ on this, but a good reference is 
_Worms Eat My Garbage_ by Mary Appelhoff, Flower Press, 1982.

Places I know of to get the (red)worms themselves include:

Vermicast Products, Richard Matson, Portland, Oregon (503) 226-0816;
Smith Worms, (800) 252-5133 (Georgia); and
The Worm Concern, (805) 496-2872 (California)

-Marsie Nufer (nuferv@ohsu.edu)


Article 19797 of rec.gardens:
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From: nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA)
Subject: Re: Worms (was Re: Bamboo)
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In article <CA2xGA.Eqo@cs.uiuc.edu> ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes:

>den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) writes:

>>We visted some friends yesterday who had a stand of bamboo.  They asked if 
>>we wanted some, and so we took some home.  My question is, what kind of soil 
>>does bamboo like?  It is tolerant of poor soil?  Also, does it like sun, 
>>shade, or some of both?  And, does it need a lot of water?  

>I know nothing of bamboo, except that it grows indoors in potting soil
>(no direct sun light) at my SO's work.

>>Right now I have it sitting in a pile of worm castings until I 
>>decide where to put it.  We live about 50 miles north of Philadelphia, and
>>our soil is pretty poor except where I've been adding a lot of compost, 
>>manure, and worm castings (I raise worms and have a good bit).

>This is what I'm interested in.  How do you grow worms?  Is there a FAQ
>on this?  Thanks for any info.


>ward

Ward,
I don't know if there is a FAQ on this, but a good reference is 
_Worms Eat My Garbage_ by Mary Appelhoff, Flower Press, 1982.

Places I know of to get the (red)worms themselves include:

Vermicast Products, Richard Matson, Portland, Oregon (503) 226-0816;
Smith Worms, (800) 252-5133 (Georgia); and
The Worm Concern, (805) 496-2872 (California)

-Marsie Nufer (nuferv@ohsu.edu)


Article 27293 of rec.gardens:
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From: fishman@panix.com (Harvey Fishman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: vermiculture
Date: 2 Mar 1994 20:06:38 -0500
Organization: Flatulent Flatlands Flea Flickers
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In <9402222303.AA29709@im8> dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) says

> In article: <1994Feb22.022710.27757@k12.ucs.umass.edu>
>     jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) asks:
> >I have several students interested in investigating vermiculture.  I have
> >ordered the book "Worms Eat My Garbage", but would like some advise.  Where
> >can I purchase red worms for this purpose?  Would they have them at a bait
> >shop?  Thanks for any help......Jeff
>  
> I was looking for the same information.  Bait shops charge an arm and a 
> leg for worms, too much for amounts used in vermiculture.  I checked out 
> the ads in the back of Organic Gardening and Fine Gardening magazines and 
> found a couple of places in the south which mail order worms in quantity 
> at more reasonable prices.  I decided to wait for warmer weather to 
> order, so my worms won't die in shipment. Now that it's starting to 
> warm up, I've misplaced the addresses so I suppose I'll have to go down 
> to the library and look them up again.
>  
> Good luck on your search.
>  
> If anyone can recommend some worm farms as better than others, I'm sure 
> some of us would like to hear about it.

Speaking without much knowledge of the subject, I note that on page 38 of
the Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co. 1994 Catalogue, there is an offering
of Red Hybrid Worms.  The price is $19.95 for a pack of 500 ($18.95 for 2
or more) or $43.95 for a pack of 2000 ($41.85 for 2 or more).  I do not
know if these are the worms that you seek; they are advertised as "The
natural way to aerate your garden soil!"

	Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co.
	415 North Burnett
	Shenandoah, Iowa 51602

Harvey

--
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Harvey Fishman   |            There is no greater failure than
fishman@panix.com |                that of making an enemy.
  718-258-7276    |


                                                                                                                  


Article 26942 of rec.gardens:
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From: rreid@rreid.mentorg.com (Richard Reid)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: vermiculture
Date: 23 Feb 1994 17:04:31 GMT
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I started a Worm Box last August and just did my second turn
in replacing the bedding.  I got the worms by calling the local
Recycling Organization-- who in turn gave me the name of a local
worm grower.  We then set up a rondavous.  I know he will also
ship em, or so he said.

	Richard Matson
	VermaCast Products
	103 N.W. Pittock AVE
	Portland, Oregon 97210
	(503) 226 - 0816 

As I remember they where about 12 dollars per pound.


-- 
Rick Reid
rreid@wv.mentorg.com  -- Mentor Graphics Corporation
"I belong to no organized party.  I'm a democrat."
                - Will Rogers



Article 27434 of rec.gardens:
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From: gkiewicz@oeonline.com (Pat & George Kiewicz)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: vermiculture
Message-ID: <46@oeonline.UUCP>
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[various people ask about sources of worms for vermiculture]

> Speaking without much knowledge of the subject, I note that on page 38 of
> the Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co. 1994 Catalogue, there is an offering
> of Red Hybrid Worms.  The price is $19.95 for a pack of 500 ($18.95 for 2
> or more) or $43.95 for a pack of 2000 ($41.85 for 2 or more).  I do not
> know if these are the worms that you seek; they are advertised as "The
> natural way to aerate your garden soil!"
> 
> 	Henry Field's Seed & Nursery Co.
> 	415 North Burnett
> 	Shenandoah, Iowa 51602
> 
> Harvey
> 
> --
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>  Harvey Fishman   |            There is no greater failure than
> fishman@panix.com |                that of making an enemy.
>   718-258-7276    |
> 
> 
>                                                                                                                   
A couple of other sources I can mention:

Gardener's Supply
128 Intervale Rd.
Burlington VT 05401
TEL 1-800-444-6417

'Red Wiggler's' item #2-232
2 pounds $24.95 + S/H

This is the company which supplied MY worms.  They are shipped to you directly
from the 'grower'.  2# should be 2,000+ worms.  The worms were young and thus
easily adjusted to their new home after shipment.  My husband ordered an entire
kit (worms, bin, and Ms. Appelhof's book) as a birthday present for me -- and it
was just what I wanted!!!

Redworms can also be bought through Gardens Alive! (500/$19.95 1,000/$27.95 + S/H)
Henry Fields beats them on the S/H charges.

I've also read that worms can be purchased from Ms. Appelhof's Flowerfield
Enterprise, but I have no idea of the going rate.  TEL (616)327-0108.  


Hope this information proves useful.  I *love* my worm-bin.  
-- 
//Pat Kiewicz\\

gkiewicz@oeonline.com

"Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn."
-- Garrison Keillor


Article 13541 of rec.gardens:
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From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: worm composting
Date: 10 Feb 1993 18:55:33 GMT
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In article <1CE00001.psqtv5@tbomb.ice.com> time@ice.com (Tim Endres) writes:
>Also can anyone tell me how many worms one needs to eat a gallon
>pail of kitchen scraps a day and how much space they need?
>Karen
>karen@ice.com 

The following is advice from the book Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary
Appelhof...

To determine what size of worm bin is best for your household, you
need to figure how many pounds of garbage you produce per day. So
go ahead and weigh out how much you have at the end of the week, and
divide by 7. So if I have 7 pounds of garbage at the end of the week,
that is about a pound of garbage per day, average. 

Mary recommends a ratio of 2:1 for worms:average-garbage-produced-per-day,
so if about 1 pound of garbage is produced per day, you'll need 2 pounds
of worms. She says there are about 2000 bedrun size redworms in a pound.
(Bedrun worms are worms of all sizes, while 'breeders' are large worms
that are handpicked for fishing purposes. Mary recommends the bedruns
since they are cheaper (don't need to be handpicked) and reproduce and
ship as well as the breeders in the long run. She doesn't feel a bin
gets started any quicker if you chose the breeder size worms.)
[That 2:1 ratio means the *total* worms you'll need, not the amount of
worms you'll need to add per day :) ]

Since redworms are surface feeders you'll want a bin with a large
surface area, for the pound of garbage produced per day, a large bin
with about 7 square feet is recommended, or one with dimensions of
about 1' deep by 2' wide by 3' long. Most commercial bins I have seen
advertised are about 24"x20"x12", which just means you'd need two of
them for a large household with lots of trash. I like using multiple
smaller bins, since they are lighter, easier to move when/if full, and
if I accidentally overfeed one, not all my bins are ruined.

Kelly
kelly@cco.caltech.edu



:
>Where can I get the little red worms
>that are supposed to be so good for
>indoor composting?  I tried some
>live bait shops in town and found
>nothing.

The January 1992 issue of Organic Gardening has an article on worms and
composting, "Compost Indoors! Worms Do the Work".  It gives instructions
on building a worm box (although one is available from Gardener's
Supply).  It also tells how to get the box started and what kind of
worms to use.

The correct type are redworms (aka red wiggles or manure worms).  The are
small compared to most earthworms.  Their temperature range is 40 to 90
degrees, whereas, earthworms prefer temperature around 55 degrees.  Earth-
worms also require burrows to breed.  A worm box is too warm and too
small for them...and they tend to escape whenever possible.  Red worms
stay put.

The article is written by Mary Appelhof, author of "Worms Eat My Garbage".
The book is $10.95 including shipping and handling and is available from:
        Flower Press,
        10332 Shaver Road
        Kalamazzo Mi 49002

The list of companies carry supplies:
        Cape Cod Worm Farm
        30 Center Ave
        Buzzards Bay. Ma 02532

        Carter Fishworm Farm
        Plains Georgia 31780

        Early Bird Ecology
        RR1
        Smithville, Ont
        canada L0R 2A0

        Gardener's Supply
        128 Intervale Road
        Burlington, Vt 05401

        Redworms, C/o Ron Clausen
        2111 N. Century Blvd
        McDavid Fl 32568

        Snooks Worm Farm
        Box 14
        Harold Fl 32563

I notice that the Burpee Gardens 1992 catalog has an add for
"Red Hybrid Earthworms".  It says they range from 1/4 to 3"
long.  Are these redworms?  Will hybrid worms breed true to
type?  (Maybe I shouldn't use the term breed, given the way
worms reproduce.)  How do they make a hybrid?  I assume the
idea is to get the worms to reproduce in your compost pile,
as they only send 500 for $19.95!

I one reply I got on worms so far:

>For 2000 bedrun (various sizes where 'breeder' are the larger size.
>According to the book 'worms eat my garbage' the bedrun are recommended since
>they are cheaper, breed just as well, and may survive shipping better)
>redworms, it was 21.00, and with tax that is 22.31 (back in June)

>Are bedrun a variety of redworm or something else?
>Which variety eats the most?  (Oooh you pig worm!)

One response indicated that redworms do well in 40 to 90 deg. F.
earthworms don't do as well.  They also like to escape.

What can we say about bedruns?  (Or again are they a specific
variety of redworm, doing as well with temperatures and
housing conditions.)

>I notice that the Burpee Gardens 1992 catalog has an add for
>"Red Hybrid Earthworms".  It says they range from 1/4 to 3"
>long.  Are these redworms?  Will hybrid worms breed true to
>type?  (Maybe I shouldn't use the term breed, given the way
>worms reproduce.)  How do they make a hybrid?  I assume the
>idea is to get the worms to reproduce in your compost pile,
>as they only send 500 for $19.95!

>Are bedrun a variety of redworm or something else?
There are two different sizes' of worms, in a sense. 
The 'Breeders' are hand selected to be a
certain size, usually around the maximum three inches. The idea is these
are the ones you buy if you want to start breeding worms. Because they
hand select these, they cost more (5 or 10 bucks or so, per 1000) than
'Bedrun' worms. Bedrun means 'mixed sizes, randomly selected'. So if
you saw an ad saying '2000 bedrun Redworms, 19.95 and 2000 'breeder'
redworms , for 25.00' you'd know the difference and why one costs more than
the other.
In the book "Worms Eat My Garbage", the author says that bedrun worms are
fine to buy, since she feels they might survive shipping better, and
adapt more quickly, and she doesn't feel there is any significant reason
to spend the extra money on a 'breeder' worms ...
>Which variety eats the most?
You want the compost worms, red wigglers, redworms, the 'tiny' worms, not
anything called 'earthworms'.
>What can we say about bedruns?  (Or again are they a specific
>variety of redworm, doing as well with temperatures and
>housing conditions.)
Bedrun just describes the size range of the worm you'll be getting. Its a
mixed size range.

Someone who was interested in ordering lots of worms for *fishing* would
be interested in this since he'd want big worms for his hooks and would
probably only order breeders. That's why they have the two different size
choices...

>I have some large pickle or planter crocks about two feet high
>and 18" wide.  I thought of raising worms in these in my basement.
>Is a ceramic crock a good container, or just a waste?

Well, it doesn't 'breathe', its sealed, right? I would say you'd want
something wider, and not quite as 'deep'. It might work, might not, i really
don't know, but if you're serious and have some scrap wood lying around,
then go for making the worm boxes described in the January issue of Organic
Gardening, or the '1-2-3' worm box (which is just a box that is one foot
deep, two feet wide and three feet long, for best results, use a finely
screened lid to keep out fruitflies which become a nuisance after time...the
box has about 9, 1" drain holes on the bottom. This should be sufficiant
size to hold 2000 worms...)

The book "Worms Eat My Garbage" is a great reference and a must read for anyone
seriously into worm-composting....!



According to several of the books I read on raising worms, the "Hybrid"
designation is pure hype. No one has been able to prove a true hybrid exists.
The differences are usually tracked down to superior feed and conditions rather
than any difference in breeding. For composting, you don't need to get into
raising the biggest fattest worms, anyway. You just want enough worms to eat
enough garbage. I started with worms dug from under a horse manure pit for
free, and have had nothing but good results, even when I added them to my
outside compost bins (after they cooled a bit).
:
:
Article 12661 (50 more) in rec.gardens:
From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.)
Subject: Re: Worms and Home Composting in Winter
Date: 31 Dec 92 05:45:05 GMT

In article <1htjioINN4pu@access.usask.ca> goldie@herald.usask.ca 
(Hugh Goldie) writes:
>I recently saw part of a Canadian news program from Winnipeg, about indoor
>composting with red worms.  I would be very thankful if someone could e-mail
>or post some details about this, particularly where to get worms and how to
>get started.  It is -37 degrees centigrade in Saskabush right now and my
>outdoor compost heap is probably working rather slowly... :-).

Organic Gardening magazine had an article on this topic in the January 92
issue, by Mary Appelhof who wrote the book "Worms Eat My Garbage". The
issue has plans for a *very* nice wormbin that fits well on a porch and
doubles as a bench. It also included the following sources:

Worms Eat My Garbage (book) for $10.50 (includ shipping) from:
Flower Press
10332 Shaver Road
Kalamazoo, MI 49002

Mary Appelhof also sells vermicomposting supplies including redworms
and her latest worm composting system (a plastic rectangular container
designed for indoor use, called 'The Worms Eat My Garbage Worm-a-way'
made of recycled plastic manufactured by We recycle Corp. of
Milton, Ont. Its manufacture provides employment for developmentally
disabled individuals.)

Write to:
Flowerfield Enterprises
10332 Shaver Road
Kalamazoo, MI 49002
(616) 327-0108

Also listed were:

Cape Cod Worm Farm
30 Center Ave.
Buzzards Bay, MA 02532

Carter Fishworm Farm
Plains, GA 31780

Early Bird Ecology
RR1
Smithville, ONT
Canada L0R 2A0
(Not sure what they sell, but i would guess worms, and the plastic bin,
perhaps the book.)

Gardener's Supply
128 Intervale Rd
Burlington, VT 05401
Free catalog, they sell the plastic bin, book and worms, and all three as
a deal i believe.

Redworms c/o Ron Clausen
2111 N. Century Blvd
McDavid, FL 32568

Snooks Worm Farm
Box 14 
Harold, FL 32563

May I also add:
Rainbow Worm Farm
24700 County Road No. 95
Davis, CA 95616
(916) 758-9906

I paid 21.00 (plus tax so it came to 22.31) for about two pounds
of bedrun redworms, and they are very nice people. You *won't* get a
'flyer{ from them saying 'raising earthworms are so easy, even your
wife could do it' as i got some certain farms located in places like
georgia...:-) 

I've had bins (1'x 2'x 3' in size, 2 of them, made out of scrap wood
with drainage holes,) outside for almost two years now, and i *love*
them. I've had no problems with rats or flies or anything, they smell
like dirt, not rotting stuff, and its just magic how my foodstuffs are
turned into wonderful rich compost. I followed the directions in Mary's
book, its a great book, and so is the OG article, and if your library
has it, its free.

I haven't tried her bin, nor seen one in person, so i can't comment
on that.

Kelly
kelly@cco.caltech.edu
:
Article 17804 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!ames!ncar!noao!stsci!yen
From: yen@stsci.edu (Felix Yen)
Subject: re: red earthworms
Message-ID: <1993May28.170217.1939@stsci.edu>
Sender: news@stsci.edu
Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute
Distribution: na
Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 17:02:17 GMT
Lines: 39


David C. Adams (dadams@cray.com) writes:
>  Gardens Alive offers 500 red earthworms for $19.95.  I think this is a 
>  pretty steep price.  It seems that I have seen a better price somewhere.
>  Does anyone know?

Bountiful Gardens is charging a "mere" $15.00 for 500.  But before you
order from them or anyone else, make sure you're getting the right
species of worm for your application.  "Red earthworms" are probably
Lumbricus rubellus which are fairly easy to buy and nice for composting,
but they won't do well in your garden unless your soil is quite rich.

Another common variety is the night crawler (Lumbricus terrestris) which
also has some nice properties, e.g. they are deep burrowers and don't
require as much food, but they aren't as active as other species and
they're migratory.  Thinking that my garden is a virtual worm prison,
it being surrounded by concrete slabs and brick/stone walls, I implanted
some Canadian night crawlers in the shady corner.  One year later, while
removing part of a brick path about 2 feet underground (I was digging a
pit for assorted plant refuse), a large worm crawled out from beneath a
brick.  He/she was either one of the original Canadians (African night
crawlers simply will not do at all) or one of his/her offspring.  In any
case, it clearly was not doing my plants much good hanging out underneath
a layer of bricks.

The best worms for garden use are common field worms (Allolobophora
caliginosa) even if they're slow reproducers, and swamp worms (Pheretima)
but both are hard to buy.  I have yet to find a Pheretima dealer, but did
manage to transplant a few earlier this year.  (Live, damn it!)

Your best bet might be buying castings or cocoons/eggs of an appropriate
species.  Last year, Gardener's Supply sold night crawler cocoons (I don't
get their catalogue anymore) and Bountiful Gardens sells castings, but
their catalogue does not indicate what species of worms/castings they are
selling.  The curious may call them at (707) 459 6410.


Felix
yen@stsci.edu