From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!hawk!hawk!del Tue May 18 23:43:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17052 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!hawk!hawk!del From: del@hawk.adied.oz.au (D Elson) Subject: Re: How do I kill Aphids Message-ID: Organization: Australian Defence Industries References: <1somq5INNk10@hp-col.col.hp.com> <1squmi$oif@spcot.sanders.com> Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 05:23:23 GMT Lines: 18 streeter@sanders.com (Kenneth B. Streeter) writes: >I do not have any aphid problems yet, but, then again, my garden has >just started to come up. However, there are at least an average of 2 >ant hills per square foot in my garden as of now. (Yes, there are at >least 400 ant hills in my 200 sqft plot.) It would appear that all >these ants will turn my garden into an aphid farm. What can I do to >control the ants? 1) Rent space on your plants to Aphids at $100/sq foot. I suggest, however that they are a bunch of bad payers and would probably eat your plants instead. 2) Find a pyrethrum insecticide (I use Hortico, I don't know what brands you have in the USA) in liquid form, mix it up at about 1/2 the strength recommended on the bottle, and pour it down the ant holes. Del From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Tue May 18 23:43:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17053 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Leatherjackets(Marsh Crane Fly) Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <24189@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 07:49:37 GMT Lines: 50 In article <24189@mindlink.bc.ca> Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >From the early rumours that I am hearing it looks like this might be a bad >year here for Marsh Crane Fly, also known as Leatherjackets. I don't know >much about them and the only control method for bad infestions that I have >read about features Diazinon. >Can anyone tell me more about this insect? Are there are any environmentally >friendly controls if they start to be a real problem? >Thanks in advance for your help. >-Moira Carlson > Do crane flies when they are young live in water like mosquito larva? If so, I would like to share a method of control that I heard of (and tried once). If you have a rain barrel, for example, or (I believe I have also heard it for livestock tanks), put a few fish in them to eat the mosquito larva. For something enclosed where the fish will not enter waterways, you could use small goldfish. However goldfish are carp, which are usually considered undesireable in water containing gamefish. (They eat the gamefish eggs and young, and muddy up the bottom, disturbing other fishes spawning) Some states even have laws against releasing goldfish into waterways. So, in that case, I would say to buy minnows from a bait dealer. They will probably have something local, and will not be selling something illegal to release in the state, since there is always some likelihood of bait escaping. I would think to get small ones if the space is small or if it might not get a lot of oxygen. Anyway, small fish will eat the larva, so fewer adults. Do bats eat crane flies? Another possibility is to build roosting boxes to attract bats to your area. Some people are scared of them, but though their up-close appearance may be scary, one rarely sees them up close. Many bats fly by high up in the air around our community gardens. Early this spring on the first day I worked on my garden plot, I saw 3 of them as it was getting dark, and I thought it a sure sign that spring was on the way. Some people are afraid of rabid bats attacking them, but I have read that bats are no more likely to get rabies than other wild animals (and less likely than some). I believe I have heard that (in this area of the country at least), foxes and skunks are the main sources/victims of rabies. Another idea is to find out what kind of birds eat them (swallows maybe?) and build houses for those birds. Hope these ideas help. JOhn snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Tue May 18 23:44:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17054 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Worms for composting Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <1srh8mINNhng@hpsdde.sdd.hp.com> Distribution: na Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 07:59:13 GMT Lines: 24 In article <1srh8mINNhng@hpsdde.sdd.hp.com> davids@hpsdde.sdd.hp.com (David Schwantner) writes: >Awhile back, someone in San DIego offered some of there extra worms >for anyone who wanted some. Is there anyone in the San Diego area >who would like to share some extra worms? Write me. Thanks in advance. > >----------------------------------------------------------------------- >David Schwantner - Hewlett-Packard - San Diego Site >Internet : davids@hpsdde.sdd.hp.com / davids%hpsdde@sdd.hp.com >----------------------------------------------------------------------- I don't know if this will work for you, but I have made compost piles in two different locations outside (my backyard, and the community gardens, a mile or 2 away). The redworms just appear underneath (and later inside) the pile. I have even found them to appear under a small pile of weeds and leaves that was not a big, formally constructed compost pile. It is really rather amazing that they find the piles, but they just do. I can see how the ancients believed things like, "rotting compost produces worms". John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Tue May 18 23:44:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17055 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: How cold is cold? (was Re: Planting tomatoes) Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 08:05:23 GMT Lines: 39 In article jlawlor@ptdcs2.intel.com writes: >>>>>> On 12 May 1993 18:21:35 UTC, pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey) said: > >Paul> One unusual application I've found for it is to wake up >Paul> over-wintered plants like eggplants that go into a slow growth >Paul> mode from the lack of winter sun; MiracleGro or equivalent used >Paul> as a foliar feed seems to be just the thing to wake them up into >Paul> normal growth. As a chemical fertilizer goes, it's probably the >Paul> best that money can buy, but economical is not the word for it. > >This "slow growth mode" reminds me of a question I've been meaning to >ask. I've heard that tomato plants can be "permanently" stunted by >too much cool weather early in the season. > >Question 1: How cool (and for what duration) would the temperatures > need to be to cause this? >Question 2: If this were to happen, would it be possible to "wake > them up" as mentioned above for overwintered plants? >-- > >Jay Lawlor jlawlor@ptdcs2.intel.com >Mailstop: AL4-57 Phone: (503) 642-8050 FAX: (503) 649-3996 >============================================================================== This is interesting. I believe that my Sugar Baby Watermelons were 'permanently" stunted by unusual cold weather (low of 40 F) late last spring (around Memorial day). How cold is so cold that it stunts warm weather plants? Is the stunting permanent? Can you wake them up? John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Tue May 18 23:44:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17056 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Large Pumpkins - second post Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <1srk5l$l9@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 08:11:14 GMT Lines: 26 In article <1srk5l$l9@walt.ee.pdx.edu> davidr@flotsam.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) writes: >I'm still looking for seed sources of BIG pumpkins, and/or >methods to make the pumpkins grow large! > >Suggestions?? > >-David Robinson >davidr@ee.pdx.edu Use a perodical index to look up an article in the Mother Earth News. I do not remember the year (some time since 1986). It gave the giant varieties, and how to grow the really big ones. From memory, part of the advice is that they require lots of nutrients, so I think that you were to dig lots of compost into where you are planting them, and maybe even plant the seeds directly into compost. Also, I believe that they require lots of water. Also thin to only *one* pumpkin per plant. Some people talk about splitting the stem, and putting a rag strip into it, and the other end into milk, in order to "milk feed" them. Some articles say that this will only harm the vine and has no use what so ever. Some people actually swear by this. John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Tue May 18 23:44:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17057 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: McElwain Disconnected... Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <1993May11.151839.9080@PacBell.COM> Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 08:21:23 GMT Lines: 44 In article shimeall@cs.nps.navy.mil (timothy shimeall) writes: >Seen on misc.kids: > >In article <1993May11.151839.9080@PacBell.COM> smmyers@foghorn.srv.pacbell.com (Sean Myers) writes: >> >> >>I thought everyone would like this... >> >> >> >>> On Friday, May 7, 1993 Mr. Robert McElwain's access to the Internet was >>> revoked by the University of Wisconsin - Eau Claire. This action was >>> taken because of Mr. McElwaine's refusal to abide by University of >>> Wisconsin - Eau Claire network usage policies, and the provisions of >>> policy statements issued by WiscNet and CREN. >>> >>> The University's action was appealed by Mr. McElwaine. The outcome of >>> this formal appeal process was to uphold the action of the Director of >>> Computing and Networking Services and to remove him from the network. >>> >>> The University of Wisconsin Eau Claire regrets having to take this action, >>> but was forced to do so because of Mr McElwain's continued and persistent >>> refusal to abide by the stated policies. >>> >>> Charles J. Brenner >>> Director of Computing and Networking Services >>> University of Wisconsin >>> 167 Phillips Hall >>> Eau Claire, WI 54751 >>> >>> (715) 836-2030 >>> CBRENNER@UWEC.EDU >>> > > Now if only we could figure out a way to disconnect Alexander ABIAN (of TIME HAS INERTIA, ABIAN DESERVES A NOBEL PRIZE, and ABIAN IS GOD!!! fame) from sci.physics, life would be wonderful. John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.nd.edu!bsu-cs!bsu-ucs.uucp!00drcarroll Tue May 18 23:44:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17058 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.nd.edu!bsu-cs!bsu-ucs.uucp!00drcarroll From: 00drcarroll@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Buying Venus Fly Traps Message-ID: <1993May13.021649.19397@bsu-ucs> Date: 13 May 93 07:16:49 GMT Organization: Ball State University, Muncie, In - Univ. Computing Svc's Lines: 9 Can somebody give me the number of a place I can order some venus flyy traps and other carnivorous plants. I ordered some from the Michigan Bulb Co. long ago, but I have long since lost their number. Any help much appreciated! -Doug From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!usenet Tue May 18 23:44:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17059 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: austin.general,rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!usenet From: Robert Koelling Subject: Leafhoppers in Austin Message-ID: <1993May13.123809.5044@newsgate.sps.mot.com> X-Xxdate: Thu, 13 May 93 07:43:15 GMT Sender: usenet@newsgate.sps.mot.com Nntp-Posting-Host: 222.10.250.8 Organization: Motorola CDMSP X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d12 Distribution: na Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 12:38:09 GMT Lines: 10 HI. My question is this. I have some crape mertles which are getting overrun by leafhoppers. I have been sprawing them with "orthene" last summer and so far this spring about every two weeks. Is there a better solution? Thanks in advance, Bob Koelling Reply to: bobk@sps.mot.com From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!yfn.ysu.edu!ag439 Tue May 18 23:44:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17060 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!yfn.ysu.edu!ag439 From: ag439@yfn.ysu.edu (Audra E. Zirnheld) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bonsai trees? Date: 13 May 1993 13:00:23 GMT Organization: St. Elizabeth Hospital, Youngstown, OH Lines: 14 Message-ID: <1stgp7$i28@news.ysu.edu> Reply-To: ag439@yfn.ysu.edu (Ada Zirnheld) NNTP-Posting-Host: yfn.ysu.edu My brother just bought me a bonsai tree for my birthday. Does anyone have any tips on how to take care of it? There was a tiny manual with it. It gives some general information, and it also says it's an outdoor plant. I don't have to worry about it now, but certainly it doesn't stay out during the winter? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Ada -- ********************************************************************** "...it is swell about the fish, but isn't writing a hard job though?" -Hemingway SBUFVA::ZIRNHE52 AG439@YFN.YSU.EDU CI805@HELA.INS.CWRU.EDU From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!dilithium.sps.mot.com!jerry_young Tue May 18 23:44:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17061 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!dilithium.sps.mot.com!jerry_young From: Jerry Young Subject: RE: Latin names (my favorite) Message-ID: <1993May13.125859.5239@newsgate.sps.mot.com> X-Xxmessage-Id: X-Xxdate: Thu, 13 May 93 08:00:55 GMT Sender: usenet@newsgate.sps.mot.com Nntp-Posting-Host: 222.205.249.150 Organization: Motorola RISC Applications X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16 References: <1993May7.102743.1@uncavx.unca.edu> <1snar0INNcvt@news.u.washington.edu> <1solc9$p9t@meaddata.meaddata.com> <1993May12.182517.23883@husc3.harvard.edu> Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 12:58:59 GMT Lines: 50 In article <1993May12.182517.23883@husc3.harvard.edu> Dawn Friedman, friedman@husc10.harvard.edu writes: > I like Lonicera fragrantissima, the winter honeysuckle, especially after >I found out that the name is a multisyllable rhyme (I had been pronouncing >it wrong: it's Lo-NISS-er-uh frag-ran-TISS-im-uh). It's also a wonderful >plant for a sheltered wall in in the midatlantic zones: stray flowers >on warm days through winter, inconspicuous but incredibly fragrant. > > Lycopersicum is a wonderful name too. Mmm... I like to say Malpighia Glabra over and over. It becomes a nice little gardening mantra -- and it is especially useful for keeping neighbors away during those waning moments of daylight. And any of the names that end with "-oides" like, Salvia penstemonoides and Cassia artemisioides -- that extra syllable is like getting goosed in the middle of your species. During allergy season, saying Euonymous kiautschovica is a great way to dislodge mucous on those early mornings in the garden -- and when is time to expel it. -- Thuja ... plicata I'm fond of the genus of the rangoon creeper -- Quisqualis ("what is it?"). And Acacia wrightii always makes me think of Felix the Cat -- Right-e-o. (Maybe it's part of the declension.) In an evil moment recently I identified Bignonia as Chlamydia. I hope she didn't go into a nursery and ask the clerk if they they had it But my favorite (imagine a drum roll if you wish) is the hyacinth bean ... Dolichos lablab. The species name is like that old cat food commercial where the cat says "meow" (or very roughly phonetically "myu") over and over so it becomes "myu myumyumyum yum yum after a few repetitions. lablab becomes "lab lablabla bla bla." Oh well, isn't it the way our minds gets to wander a big reason to garden in the first place? Osakazuki! Jerry jerry_l_young@oakqm3.sps.mot.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!estd.nrl.navy.mil!malouf Tue May 18 23:44:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17062 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!estd.nrl.navy.mil!malouf From: malouf@estd.nrl.navy.mil (MALOUF, PERRY) Subject: Re: Buying Venus Fly Traps Message-ID: <13MAY199309295982@estd.nrl.navy.mil> News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: ESTD - Naval Research Laboratory, Washington DC References: <1993May13.021649.19397@bsu-ucs> Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 14:29:00 GMT Lines: 33 In article <1993May13.021649.19397@bsu-ucs>, 00drcarroll@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes... > > > > Can somebody give me the number of a place I can order some venus flyy >traps and other carnivorous plants. I ordered some from the Michigan Bulb Co. >long ago, but I have long since lost their number. Any help much appreciated! > > >-Doug There are many sources for venus fly traps, and not as many for other carnivorous plants. Some carnivorous plants are practically unobtainable. Two good sources are listed here: Botanique Nursery Route 1 Box 183 Stanardsville, VA 22973 Has venus fly traps, several varieties of: sundews (drosera), Sarraceniae (North American pitcher plants), Nepenthese (Tropical, or Old World, pitcher plants) Peter Pauls Nurseries Canandaigua, NY (Sorry for the incomplete address) Has many of the same items as the first source. Also, the proprietor has written a very good book on the cultivation of carnivorous plants. It is called something like "The World of Carnivorous Plants" by James and Patricia Pietropaolo Good luck! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!think.com!macdrf_43.dfci.harvard.edu!ffoogg Tue May 18 23:44:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17063 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!think.com!macdrf_43.dfci.harvard.edu!ffoogg From: Paco Ojeda Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Indoor Plant Questions Date: 13 May 1993 13:45:55 GMT Organization: Thinking Machines Corporation Lines: 24 Distribution: na Message-ID: <1stjejINN8eg@early-bird.think.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: macdrf_43.dfci.harvard.edu X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d11 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Thu, 13 May 93 14:50:02 GMT I want to purchase some indoor plants for my apartment, which, unfortunately, does not get a lot of sun in the places where I'd like to put the plants. I've been reading this group for a few days in search of FAQ lists or anything that would answer the following questions: 1. Can somebody recommend a good book(s) about indoor gardening? 2. Can somebody give me the names of a few plants that survive successfully indoors without a lot of sun? 3. I've heard of "sun lamps" that you can direct to your indoor plants at certain intervals. Is that so? 4. Is there a newsgroup that deals more directly with indoor plants or plants in general that I might have missed? Thanks for your help in advance! Paco ======================================================================= Paco Ojeda-Gonzalez | ffoogg@macmailgw.dfci.harvard.edu Macintosh Consultant | FOG Midi Pre-Production and | ffoogg@aol.com Graphic Services | Boston, MA - USA | ======================================================================= From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!ileaf!leafusa!lorinda Tue May 18 23:44:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17064 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!ileaf!leafusa!lorinda From: lorinda@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Lorinda Brandon) Subject: Re: Bonsai trees? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@HQ.Ileaf.COM Nntp-Posting-Host: alan Organization: Interleaf, Inc. References: <1stgp7$i28@news.ysu.edu> Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 13:42:43 GMT Lines: 3 There is a discussion group called rec.arts.bonsai that is dedicated to discussing the care, maintenance, and creation of bonsai trees. Before you post there though, you should find out what kind of bonsai you have, as they all require different care. Good luck! I too am a bonsai beginner and am swiftly becoming an addict... From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!ericadib Tue May 18 23:44:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17065 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!ericadib From: ericadib@wam.umd.edu (Erica M. Dibietz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Shady garden Date: 13 May 1993 14:15:26 GMT Organization: University of Maryland, College Park Lines: 15 Sender: ericadib@wam.umd.edu Message-ID: <1stl5u$h6p@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> References: <1993May9.212915.10664@socrates.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: rac2.wam.umd.edu Keywords: shady gardens Good morning, I too had this problem and went to see the Extension Agent with the University of Maryland Agriculture Div. They are wonderful and I noted you listed UMCP on your message. They also provide soil sampling for a modest $5 fee... you need to see them to get the envelope and instructions. I'm pretty sure they will tell you that you need to prune back some trees in order to grow veggies. I am in this situation and was surprised at what a jungle I had to tackle once I started the job. Good Luck! Erica Dibietz From samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!ericadib Tue May 18 23:44:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17066 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!ericadib From: ericadib@wam.umd.edu (Erica M. Dibietz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bunnies/Fences/Help Date: 13 May 1993 14:23:40 GMT Organization: University of Maryland, College Park Lines: 19 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1stllc$hqu@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> References: <1stgp7$i28@news.ysu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: rac2.wam.umd.edu Keywords: Rabbits I need help ...last summer I was invaded by 2 bunny families and they enjoyed my herb garden to no end...well actually it was the end of my herb garden. I was informed thatI have to put up a fence...simple chicken wire would do as rabbits do not hop over fences (hummmm?) So now I have the chicken wire and have no idea on how to get it to stand up...please don't tell me I need to stack it because I do not know how to do this and was told by the folks at Southern States I would not need stakes . At this point the bunnies are sitting around watching me thrash around with all ythis chicken wire and my dog is whinning because the bunnies are not paying any attention to her aggressive barking. e-mail me directly and if other incompetent fence builders are out there I will gladly summerize. Erica Dibietz e-mail: ericadib@wam.umd.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!psuvax1!psuvm!wvnvm!kruck Tue May 18 23:44:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17067 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!psuvax1!psuvm!wvnvm!kruck Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 10:28:21 EDT From: Message-ID: <93133.102821KRUCK@wvnvm.wvnet.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bee-sting allergy treatment References: <119259@bu.edu> Lines: 8 Both I and another local beekeeper developed allergies to bee venom last year. He decided to get desensitized, because he's a hunter/ outdoorsman- and he told me how much it _costs_. I seem to remember that it was well over a thousand dollars. I decided I'd better stick with an autoinjector until I win the lottery (sigh). Keith From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!infonode!outland!tcmcfarl Tue May 18 23:44:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17068 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!infonode!outland!tcmcfarl From: tcmcfarl@b24a.b24a.ingr.com (Theresa C McFarland) Subject: Mulching Bermuda Message-ID: <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com> Summary: Is mulching Bermuda ok? Sender: usenet@infonode.ingr.com (Usenet Administrator) Organization: Intergraph Corp., Huntsville AL USA Distribution: usa,na Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 15:12:30 GMT Lines: 20 Please help me settle a debate between my husband and me. I want to mulch our Bermuda grass lawn. My husband thinks that the mulch will kill the Bermuda. He cites the fact that we have some bare spots and thinks it's from thatch leftover from the previous year. (I think the bare spots are from diseases taking over after last year's cold - hot - cold - hot - cold - hot spring). I say the lawn is starving for some nutrients and mulching will feed the grass. He's been bagging the grass. I can't find the plate that converts our lawn mower from a bagger to a mulcher. He says he knows where it is but won't get it because he feels that mulching will kill the grass. I asked him if we could mulch (with occaisional bagging for the veggies) if I could get confirmation from rec.gardens that mulching won't kill the Bermuda. Any takers? From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm Tue May 18 23:44:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17069 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm From: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (SSGM) Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC References: <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com> Distribution: usa,na Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 15:29:50 GMT Lines: 19 Theresa McFarland notes (among other things): In article <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com>, tcmcfarl@b24a.b24a.ingr.com (Theresa C McFarland) writes: |> |> I asked him if we could mulch (with occaisional bagging for the veggies) |> if I could get confirmation from rec.gardens that mulching won't |> kill the Bermuda. |> |> Any takers? |> |> Theresa, I didn't know Bermuda grass could die. If you find out how, could you please let me know? Tom Dugan ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil P.S. Seriously, some of us have tried much more draconian measures than mulching without managing to get rid of this pest (in MD anyway). From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Tue May 18 23:44:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17070 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: How cold is cold? (was Re: Planting tomatoes) Message-ID: <1993May13.093134.26705@walter.cray.com> Lines: 36 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1s9aaeINN8vb@grover.csd.scarolina.edu> Date: 13 May 93 09:31:29 CDT In article , jlawlor@ptdi12.intel.com (Jay Lawlor ~) writes: |> >>>>> On 12 May 1993 18:21:35 UTC, pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey) said: |> |> Paul> One unusual application I've found for it is to wake up |> Paul> over-wintered plants like eggplants that go into a slow growth |> Paul> mode from the lack of winter sun; MiracleGro or equivalent used |> Paul> as a foliar feed seems to be just the thing to wake them up into |> Paul> normal growth. As a chemical fertilizer goes, it's probably the |> Paul> best that money can buy, but economical is not the word for it. |> |> This "slow growth mode" reminds me of a question I've been meaning to |> ask. I've heard that tomato plants can be "permanently" stunted by |> too much cool weather early in the season. |> |> Question 1: How cool (and for what duration) would the temperatures |> need to be to cause this? |> Question 2: If this were to happen, would it be possible to "wake |> them up" as mentioned above for overwintered plants? |> -- |> |> Jay Lawlor jlawlor@ptdcs2.intel.com |> Mailstop: AL4-57 Phone: (503) 642-8050 FAX: (503) 649-3996 |> ============================================================================== I have also heard this about tomatoes. However I have had transplants of all ages up to 1' exposed to sufficient chill (60 day 45 night) to stop their growth for weeks. Upon exposure to warmer temps they started growing apparently normally. I have also grown eggplant from miserably stunted plants and gotten normal big plants after sufficient recovery time (1-2 weeks). Has anybody else ever seen tomatoes stunted permanently by prolonged above freezing chill. (Incidentally prolonged chill will kill sweetcorn after a week or so (40-45 degrees sustained with no time above 50). I have heard but not observed that rice pollen is damaged by night temperatures below 59F. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!silver.cs.umanitoba.ca!ostrand Tue May 18 23:44:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17071 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!silver.cs.umanitoba.ca!ostrand From: ostrand@silver.cs.umanitoba.ca (Andrew Ostrander) Subject: Re: Control Ants Organically Message-ID: Sender: news@ccu.umanitoba.ca Nntp-Posting-Host: silver.cs.umanitoba.ca Organization: Computer Science, University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada References: <1ss3fh$bko@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 15:27:37 GMT Lines: 8 In article <1ss3fh$bko@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> bsingh@winton.Corp.Sun.COM writes: > >Any suggestions on an organic way to control ants ? I keep spraying For what it's worth, I have heard that cucumber peelings left on the ground will repel ants. Andrew From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!acheng Tue May 18 23:44:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17072 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!acheng From: acheng@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Albert Cheng) Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 16:05:19 GMT Message-ID: Distribution: usa,na References: <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com> Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Originator: acheng@shalom.ncsa.uiuc.edu Organization: Nat'l Ctr for Supercomp App (NCSA) @ University of Illinois Lines: 24 In article <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com>, tcmcfarl@b24a.b24a.ingr.com (Theresa C McFarland) writes: >Please help me settle a debate between my husband and me. > >I want to mulch our Bermuda grass lawn. My husband thinks that the >mulch will kill the Bermuda. He cites the fact that we have some bare >spots and thinks it's from thatch leftover from the previous year. >(I think the bare spots are from diseases taking over after last year's >cold - hot - cold - hot - cold - hot spring). >I say the lawn is starving for some nutrients and mulching will feed >the grass. He's been bagging the grass. I can't find the plate >that converts our lawn mower from a bagger to a mulcher. He says he >knows where it is but won't get it because he feels that mulching will >kill the grass. Don't know about Bermuda grass. My front lawn is zoysia and the back yard is a mix of blue grass and zoysia. I have mulch mowed them last year. Everything is still fine, no thatching. I still need to fertilize the lawn. Just the clipping alone is not sufficient. One problem about mulching, you have to cut more often. Mulching mower performs badly if you try to cut off more than 4" of grass. Can't cut them wet either. So, overall, you don't save time, but having the clippings recycled is a good idea. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!flotsam.ee.pdx.edu!davidr Tue May 18 23:44:24 EDT 1993 Article: 17073 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!flotsam.ee.pdx.edu!davidr From: davidr@flotsam.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: ants/Amdro Message-ID: <1stt2g$nro@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 13 May 93 16:30:08 GMT Article-I.D.: walt.1stt2g$nro Lines: 9 NNTP-Posting-Host: flotsam.ee.pdx.edu As per the recent discussion of ridding your plot o' land of ants with Amdro: Is this the actual chemical, or is this a brand name? My Aunt tryed to locate some Amdro yesterday, and out of two nursuries, none had heard of it. If Amdro is a brand name, could somebody look up what the "active ingredient" is? Thanks. -David Robinson From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!infonode!maven.b29.ingr.com!dave Tue May 18 23:44:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17074 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!infonode!maven.b29.ingr.com!dave From: dave@maven.b29.ingr.com (Dave Bradford) Subject: Peonies and Ants Message-ID: <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com> Sender: usenet@infonode.ingr.com (Usenet Administrator) Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL. Distribution: na Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 16:42:10 GMT Lines: 9 Why are ants (usually big black ones) always on my peonies? They seem to start accumulating there when the flower buds swell up. I have looked for aphids and I can't see any evidence of them. Are the ants after some nectar? I have no noticable damage to the blooms or plant. Thanks. -- Dave Bradford debradfo@maven.b29.ingr.com (Internet) From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:44:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17075 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RE: Latin names (my favorite) Message-ID: <1993May13.114810.13134@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 11:48:10 -0600 References: <1993May7.102743.1@uncavx.unca.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 12 Bob Strauss, strauss@uncavx.unca.edu writes: > My favorite Latin (Graeco latin?) name is Pterospermum acerifolium, > but the scientific means "winged seed, maple leaf." Ah yes. And how about bearberry, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi for Graeco-Roman overkill? The genus means bear-berry in Greek, then the specific epithet repeats it in Latin... ;-) Or just for the sounds of the words, how about Rhamnus frangula? Sounds like a bunch of metal pipe falling off the back of a truck... ;-) Kay From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:44:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17076 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Questions on Venus Flytrap Message-ID: <1993May13.115358.13135@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 11:53:58 -0600 References: <1s5sng$hoh@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <118124@bu.edu> <1993May11.095725.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> <119255@bu.edu> Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 10 In article <119255@bu.edu>, bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: > oops! I think you're right -- it probably WAS sundews (she said with flaming > red face!!) (I'll be very quiet now for a while!) Ah, don't be... I know a plant ecologist who was practically wrestled to the ground by his companion when he started telling a farmer he should spray his Lythrum salicaria before it spread. Only it was Liatris. Desirable native species.... Kay From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!enterpoop.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Tue May 18 23:44:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17077 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!enterpoop.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Advice on Mock Orange Message-ID: Date: 13 May 93 16:37:19 GMT References: <1993May10.195751.1678@news.columbia.edu> Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University Lines: 16 Jill Williams writes: >Can someone offer some advice on planting and caring for a mock orange? >How much sun, water, etc. ? Right now it's about 4" tall, in a pot, >purchased last weekend at a local garden club plant sale. Thanks. Mock oranges like clay soil and sun or half-shade. They won't flower if the soil is too sandy. Other than that they don't have any particular needs. The fragrance is spectacular! --Ceci -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== "The number of rational hypotheses that can explain any given phenomenon is infinite." Phaedrus' law from RM Pirsig's _Zen_and_the_Art_of_Motorcycle_Maintenance_ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!newsaintmail Tue May 18 23:44:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17078 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!newsaintmail From: wes@sscvx1 ( Wes Smith) Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: daemon@linac.fnal.gov (The Background Man) Nntp-Posting-Host: 143.202.102.36 Organization: SSC lab References: <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com> Distribution: usa,na Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 17:00:47 GMT Lines: 44 In article <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com>, tcmcfarl@b24a.b24a.ingr.com (Theresa C McFarland) wrote: > > Please help me settle a debate between my husband and me. > > I want to mulch our Bermuda grass lawn. My husband thinks that the > mulch will kill the Bermuda. He cites the fact that we have some bare > spots and thinks it's from thatch leftover from the previous year. > (I think the bare spots are from diseases taking over after last year's > cold - hot - cold - hot - cold - hot spring). > I say the lawn is starving for some nutrients and mulching will feed > the grass. He's been bagging the grass. I can't find the plate > that converts our lawn mower from a bagger to a mulcher. He says he > knows where it is but won't get it because he feels that mulching will > kill the grass. > > I asked him if we could mulch (with occaisional bagging for the veggies) > if I could get confirmation from rec.gardens that mulching won't > kill the Bermuda. > > Any takers? I've been mulching my bermuda lawn for two years now and it looks better than it ever did when I bagged the clippings. Bermuda rarely, if ever, develops thatch problems. Unless you let the grass grow out several inches and just throw the clippings without using a mulching blade, most grasses won't ever develop a thatching problem. In fact, I've got a 3 year old clipping pile (at least 6" thick) that is sporting a nice cap of bermuda. If there was ever a situation where thatching would be a problem, that would be it. Are the bare spots getting at least 6 hours of sun a day? Shade from new tree growth is about the only thing that ever caused new bare spots in my bermuda, although some areas always come out sooner than others in the spring. If it's not shade, maybe your problem is grubworms or bermuda mites. Good luck - Wes Smith P.S. - Don't be too hard on the old man, he's probably just getting good results in the garden from his well fertilized compost. If he's just bagging it as trash, console him with the fact that by mulching he will save himself a lot of time and effort in addition to having a more attractive (and healthier) lawn. Could be that he tried the convertor with poor results and he doesn't want to spring for a dedicated mulching mower (I had the same experience). From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!uwm.edu!linac!newsaintmail Tue May 18 23:44:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17079 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!uwm.edu!linac!newsaintmail From: wes@sscvx1 ( Wes Smith) Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: daemon@linac.fnal.gov (The Background Man) Nntp-Posting-Host: 143.202.102.36 Organization: SSC lab References: <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com> Distribution: usa,na Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 17:02:52 GMT Lines: 44 In article <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com>, tcmcfarl@b24a.b24a.ingr.com (Theresa C McFarland) wrote: > > Please help me settle a debate between my husband and me. > > I want to mulch our Bermuda grass lawn. My husband thinks that the > mulch will kill the Bermuda. He cites the fact that we have some bare > spots and thinks it's from thatch leftover from the previous year. > (I think the bare spots are from diseases taking over after last year's > cold - hot - cold - hot - cold - hot spring). > I say the lawn is starving for some nutrients and mulching will feed > the grass. He's been bagging the grass. I can't find the plate > that converts our lawn mower from a bagger to a mulcher. He says he > knows where it is but won't get it because he feels that mulching will > kill the grass. > > I asked him if we could mulch (with occaisional bagging for the veggies) > if I could get confirmation from rec.gardens that mulching won't > kill the Bermuda. > > Any takers? I've been mulching my bermuda lawn for two years now and it looks better than it ever did when I bagged the clippings. Bermuda rarely, if ever, develops thatch problems. Unless you let the grass grow out several inches and just throw the clippings without using a mulching blade, most grasses won't ever develop a thatching problem. In fact, I've got a 3 year old clipping pile (at least 6" thick) that is sporting a nice cap of bermuda. If there was ever a situation where thatching would be a problem, that would be it. Are the bare spots getting at least 6 hours of sun a day? Shade from new tree growth is about the only thing that ever caused new bare spots in my bermuda, although some areas always come out sooner than others in the spring. If it's not shade, maybe your problem is grubworms or bermuda mites. Good luck - Wes Smith P.S. - Don't be too hard on the old man, he's probably just getting good results in the garden from his well fertilized compost. If he's just bagging it as trash, console him with the fact that by mulching he will save himself a lot of time and effort in addition to having a more attractive (and healthier) lawn. Could be that he tried the convertor with poor results and he doesn't want to spring for a dedicated mulching mower (I had the same experience). From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:44:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17080 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Snake question Message-ID: <1993May13.115703.13136@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 11:57:02 -0600 References: <1993May12.161754.23084@hemlock.cray.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 10 In article <1993May12.161754.23084@hemlock.cray.com>, dadams@cray.com (David Adams) writes: > As long as we are on snake questions: > > Has anybody ever seen a little tiny green snake. I saw one > in a tree once. I'm trying to remember where. Sure. Rough and smooth green snakes were once fairly common in prairies. I see them occasionally. Kay From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!infonode!maven.b29.ingr.com!dave Tue May 18 23:44:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17081 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!infonode!maven.b29.ingr.com!dave From: dave@maven.b29.ingr.com (Dave Bradford) Subject: Organic Fertilizers $$$ Message-ID: <1993May13.170711.16495@infonode.ingr.com> Sender: usenet@infonode.ingr.com (Usenet Administrator) Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL. Distribution: na Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 17:07:11 GMT Lines: 24 I have a real dilemma. I like the idea of using organic fertilizers on my lawn but they cost big bucks. I have used fertilizer from both Gardens Alive and Ringer in the past but it hurts the ol' pocketbook too much. At the start, Gardens Alive's stuff looked pretty reasonable until you add in the shipping. Whew! No complaints with the product except the cost of getting it to my door. Ringer's is approximately the same story. Our local Home Depot sold it last year at $18 per bag. That is roughly double what you pay for a bag of Scott's chemical fertilizer. How is everyone else out there dealing with this? Do you think organics are worth the price? Are there other sources I don't know about where I can buy product comparably priced with the inorganics? If I do go with an inorganic, is there some way I can limit the downsides (leaching into groundwater, quick release hurting soil flora and fauna, lack of micronutrients)? I was thinking maybe I could apply some basic 8-8-8 type stuff and then follow up with some fish emulsion or something for micro- nutrients. So other than letting my pocketbook die for the cause, what is the poor organic-really-wannabe to do? -- Dave Bradford debradfo@maven.b29.ingr.com (Internet) From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!newsaintmail Tue May 18 23:44:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17082 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!newsaintmail From: wes@sscvx1 ( Wes Smith) Subject: Re: ants/Amdro Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: daemon@linac.fnal.gov (The Background Man) Nntp-Posting-Host: 143.202.102.36 Organization: SSC lab References: <1stt2g$nro@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 17:25:11 GMT Lines: 21 In article <1stt2g$nro@walt.ee.pdx.edu>, davidr@flotsam.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) wrote: > > As per the recent discussion of ridding your plot o' land of ants > with Amdro: > > Is this the actual chemical, or is this a brand name? My Aunt > tryed to locate some Amdro yesterday, and out of two nursuries, > none had heard of it. If Amdro is a brand name, could somebody > look up what the "active ingredient" is? Thanks. > > -David Robinson Amdro is marketed specifically for fire ants, so if you don't have them in your area it may not be readily available. There are other ant baits available. Live near a Home Depot, K-mart, or Walmart? They are bound to have some, if they're not sold out. If you don't get any replies as Amdro's active ingredient, e-mail me (wes@sscvx1.ssc.gov) and I'll bring a label in. Wes Smith From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!quack!pharvey Tue May 18 23:44:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17083 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!quack!pharvey From: pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey) Subject: Re: Mulching mowers summary Message-ID: Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'. References: <1s8m1aINNsm@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> Date: 13 May 1993 16:55:00 UTC Lines: 38 In article ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (Tom Dugan) writes: >Normally I collect my clippings and compost them. This weekend I cut my grass >without the bag using my Craftsman rotary mower. This mower has a spring-loaded >trap door on the rear which swings open when the bag is attached. Therefore, >the clippings were not discharged out the side or back, but straight down. Congratulations! You now have a "mulching" mower! Don't tell Craftsman, I understand they charge for people who convert their bagging mowers to "mulching" mowers. :::B^} >The results look pretty good and it was easier and quicker than bagging. Makes you wonder who it was that invented "bagging" doesn't it? Do you suppose it could be part of a national conspiracy to deprive suburbanites of their free time? :::B^} >Problem is, this is the dying (rusted out) mower I'm anticipating replacing. >A reel mower, while being more environmentally friendly, would tend to cut >once and toss the grass onto the top of the lawn rather than shooting it down >into the lawn. So? There's not much difference. A reel mower makes a cleaner cut since its action is like scissors as opposed to a high speed dull axe. >So while I'm convinced of the desirability and ability to >aesthetically return the clippings to the lawn, it looks like I'll need a power >mower to get the job done without having dead grass sitting on the surface >(I can't always cut before the grass gets long). Well, you've found out that "mulching" mowers are mostly Madison Avenue, why not try a reel mower and see what happens? Can you rent one? Take my word and anyone else who wants to vouch for reel mowers; they work quite well - no bagging, no noise, instant start, zero emissions, no air filter to clean, to oil to check and change, kid safe, last a lifetime or more, etc. Of course there are some drawbacks to reels: they're not real high-tech, they're inexpensive and thus lower class, they don't convey much status, the neighbors might not even hear you cutting the lawn, etc. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:44:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17084 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peonies and Ants Message-ID: <1993May13.130811.13139@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 13:08:11 -0600 References: <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com> Distribution: na Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 18 In article <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com>, dave@maven.b29.ingr.com (Dave Bradford) writes: > Why are ants (usually big black ones) always on my peonies? They seem > to start accumulating there when the flower buds swell up. I have looked > for aphids and I can't see any evidence of them. Are the ants after some > nectar? I have no noticable damage to the blooms or plant. The ants are after the wax that coats the buds. If the wax isn't removed by the ants, the buds can't open. Years ago, I found that I could dry-store peony buds* in the refrigerator in a tupperware container lined with paper towels. You can remove the buds from refrigeration and recut the stems, place them in warmish water, and they'll open. But only if you pick off the sepals, since there aren't ants around to deal with the wax. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI * buds should be open enough that you can barely see petal color. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:44:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17085 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Organic Fertilizers $$$ Message-ID: <1993May13.132931.13141@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 13:29:31 -0600 References: <1993May13.170711.16495@infonode.ingr.com> Distribution: na Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 49 In article <1993May13.170711.16495@infonode.ingr.com>, dave@maven.b29.ingr.com (Dave Bradford) writes: > I have a real dilemma. I like the idea of using organic fertilizers on my > lawn but they cost big bucks. I use "chemical" fertilizers. There. I've said it. I've found them very satisfactory when carefully applied, at proper rates. I've also used organic "fertilizers" esp. manures and composts, but primarily to build soil structure, not to supply NPK. One of the big differences between "chemical" and "organic" is that the nutrients in organic fertilizers are generally in forms not immediately available to plants. They have to have soil microorganisms work on them first. So they are sort of "time-release". Most "chemical" fertilizers are in forms immediately available to plants, so they work quickly. One of the ways you can hurt your plants a bit is to make them cycle between over-rich fertilization and starvation. So if you should choose to use synthetic fertilizers, choose a time-release formulation (there are some; Osmocote is an example), or use small amounts more often. I've found that for most of my garden plants, 1/4 the recommended amount of synthetic fertilizer fed 3x more frequently* gives superior results, and allows very little leaching. *example: directions say 1 lb per 1000 sq ft every three months. I'll use 1/4 lb per 1000 sq ft each month. If you really want to keep your plants at the peak of growth, you can also try one of the soluble fertilizers like Peter's or Miracle Gro or their clones, applied as a *weak* solution weekly. That's the commercial greenhouse solution. The two areas that organic fertilizers really excel in compared to the standard synthetic 10-10-10 formulations are bulk for soil structure, and trace minerals. If you have excellent soil (I was blessed with a lovely rich prairie loam in Slater), there isn't much need for organics, so all the manures and composts I was offered went down to improve my mother's wretched clay soil. Her alleged soil needs all the help it can get. My garden got the grass clippings, mulches, leaves, etc. to maintain its level of organics, but not enough to really add to the organic matter. Look at your soil. Get a soil test. Think about what you really need, and what you can afford. At least that's my advice. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!inmet!bu.edu!BUPULA.BU.EDU Tue May 18 23:44:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17086 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!inmet!bu.edu!BUPULA.BU.EDU From: LKEYS@BUPULA.BU.EDU (clementine) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Splitting Hosta Message-ID: <119383@bu.edu> Date: 13 May 93 17:40:53 GMT References: <1sogb5$15u@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Sender: news@bu.edu Organization: BOSTON UNIVERSITY, Pulmonary Center Lines: 13 X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.22 In-Reply-To: ct076@cleveland.Freenet.Edu's message of 11 May 93 15:22:13 GMT Forgot to add... It's best to leave at least two strong buds > for each division. In doing so, the plant has best chances for survival. > I know of a Hosta retailer that divides down to one bud, but for home > gardeners, it's best to leave the two. > Michael Actually, this varies from variety to variety. Many of the older-type of hostas will put out a handful of new eyes each year. Some of the newer types might only produce one or two new eyes. If you divide them too far you'll have plants with just a leaf or two for a few years. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!dilithium.sps.mot.com!jerry_young Tue May 18 23:44:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17087 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!dilithium.sps.mot.com!jerry_young From: Jerry Young Subject: RE: Latin names (my favorite) Message-ID: <1993May13.181318.11063@newsgate.sps.mot.com> X-Xxmessage-Id: X-Xxdate: Thu, 13 May 93 13:15:14 GMT Sender: usenet@newsgate.sps.mot.com Nntp-Posting-Host: 222.205.249.150 Organization: Motorola RISC Applications X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16 References: <1993May7.102743.1@uncavx.unca.edu> <1993May12.182517.23883@husc3.harvard.edu> <1993May13.125859.5239@newsgate.sps.mot.com> Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 18:13:18 GMT Lines: 14 In article <1993May13.114810.13134@iscsvax.uni.edu> , klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >Ah yes. And how about bearberry, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi for Graeco-Roman >overkill? The genus means bear-berry in Greek, then the specific epithet >repeats it in Latin... ;-) And if once wasn't enough the "common" name is just as repetitive -- Kinnickkinnick. Which sounds like the Texas Aggie war chant and the last word of what Aristophanes' frogs say -- Brekka ke keck -kinnickkinnick. Jerry jerry_l_young@oakqm3.sps.mot.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!gvls1!rmtc.paramax.com!garyp Tue May 18 23:44:40 EDT 1993 Article: 17088 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!gvls1!rmtc.paramax.com!garyp From: garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/SWE/ISP]) Subject: Berms and Soil Prep... Please advise. Message-ID: <1993May13.175951.5515@VFL.Paramax.COM> Sender: news@VFL.Paramax.COM (IEE news user) Nntp-Posting-Host: rmtcf4.rmtc.paramax.com Organization: Paramax Systems Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 17:59:51 GMT Lines: 35 My backyard, heavy clay soil. is flat from house to fence. To get some height interest in our landscape, we are going to build a berm which follows the fence around all three sides of the backyard. The berm maximum height will be about 36" and the average height will be 16". Total added soil will be about 30 yards. The question is: How do we reconcile constructing the berms with amending the soil? It seems a shame to use clay fill dirt to create the berms. I was thinking about ripping the existing soil under the berms, adding about 3" of manure and tilling. Then adding about 1/4 of the finished height in planting mix and tilling, adding another 1/4 and tilling, add another 1/4 and tilling, and finishing off the last quarter with top soil. Of course, I would tamp all along the way to get a solid berm. My concern is not for the shrubs, flowers, and covers, but rather for the trees. Since most of the trees will be planted on these berms, I am wary of creating an interface layer that the tree roots don't want to permeate. Any opinions and advice on how I should approach building the berms would be very appreciated. We should be ready to start in about two weeks. We will want to plant trees very late next winter. Thanks, Gary P. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet Tue May 18 23:44:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17089 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet From: farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Wildflower FAQ Date: 13 May 93 19:44:04 GMT Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville Lines: 14 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: utkcs2.cs.utk.edu Summary: do y'all want one? About this time last year, I volunteered to do a Wildflower FAQ. (no, Kay, I didn't forget. I started a project on Trillium, entered graduate school, applied to the UTK Botany department, and took the GRE -- it's been a busy year). Anyway, I still want to do it if there's enough demand for one. (I don't see many posts on wildflowers). So, do y'all want one, and what kinds of things to you want to see in it? Susan -- Susan B. Farmer farmer@cs.utk.edu Lady Jerusha Kilgore I can't even find time to clean house and you want me to come up with a .sig? And now she wants to go back to grad school after 14 years ..... We'll let her out when the delusion passes. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly Tue May 18 23:44:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17090 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Leatherjackets(Marsh Crane Fly) Date: 13 May 1993 19:15:48 GMT Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena Lines: 19 Message-ID: <1su6p4INN40k@gap.caltech.edu> References: <24189@mindlink.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: sandman.caltech.edu In article snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) writes: >Do crane flies when they are young live in water like mosquito larva? >If so, I would like to share a method of control that I heard of >(and tried once). If you have a rain barrel, for example, or (I >believe I have also heard it for livestock tanks), put a few fish >in them to eat the mosquito larva. For something enclosed where >the fish will not enter waterways, you could use small goldfish. Actually many local agents give away free fish specifically to eat mosquito larvae, they look like small 'wild' guppies, and are *not* goldfish. Goldfish usually don't eat the larvae as well as the guppy like fish. Also there are things called 'mosquito dunks' which are sold for areas of still water, look like small donuts, which slowly release a form of Bt, which infects and kills mosquito larvae, and does not affect other pond organisms. Kelly kelly@cco.caltech.edu From samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!bw919 Tue May 18 23:44:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17091 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!bw919 From: bw919@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ted H. Holland) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help with Irises -- rotting leaves Date: 13 May 1993 19:57:12 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 19 Message-ID: <1su96o$sag@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Reply-To: bw919@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ted H. Holland) NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu Hi. I have a large raised bed of irises which are blooming now. Almost all of the plants have spots on the foliage, and most of the new growth is dead by now. It appears to have rotted (brown, mushy, and on the ground). It looks like it is spreading quickly. On most of the stronger foliage, there are elliptical ugly brown spots. What can I do? Is this leaf rot? If so, how can I treat it? P. S. We have had almost two weeks of continuous rain and flooding here in NE Oklahoma. I'm located about 30 mi NE of Tulsa. Thanks for any help! -- ! Ted H. Holland * "I did not want that square root ! bw919@cleveland.Freenet.Edu * of minus one; it could not be ! hth26540@vax1.utulsa.edu * thought out because it was ! * beyond reason" -- Zamiatin From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!MBVM.Mitre.Org!M17975 Tue May 18 23:44:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17092 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!MBVM.Mitre.Org!M17975 From: M17975@MBVM.Mitre.Org (Marilyn A. DeLuca) Subject: Help my Weeping Cherry Tree! Message-ID: <16BCDCD12.M17975@MBVM.Mitre.Org> Keywords: Trees Sender: news@linus.mitre.org (News Service) Nntp-Posting-Host: mbvm.mitre.org Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford MA 01730 X-Newsreader: NNR/VM R_1.3.2 Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 19:34:58 GMT Lines: 12 Help! I have a small weeping cherry tree 6-7 feet tall that desparately needs some assistance from a knowledgable source. My 5 year old daughter peeled an 18 inch strip of bark off the tree. The stripped area completely encircles the tree which is approximately 2-3 inches in diameter. One area nursery I called said to use pruning paint as he thinks this tree gets its nutrients from the wood instead of the bark. I don't know if this is true and would appreciate any information as quickly as possible to try and save my tree! Thanks in advance! Marilyn A. DeLuca EMAIL: M17975@MBVM.MITRE.ORG From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!lynx.unm.edu!spock.unm.edu!bcampos Tue May 18 23:44:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17093 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!lynx.unm.edu!spock.unm.edu!bcampos From: bcampos@spock.unm.edu (Benny Campos) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mulching Blades ??? Date: 13 May 1993 21:24:38 GMT Organization: University of New Mexico, Albuquerque, NM Lines: 11 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1sueamINN5e0@lynx.unm.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: spock.unm.edu I've seen a few posts on Mulching -vs- Bagging the last few weeks, the question I have for the net is this. Does anyone have any experence with buying just the mulching blades I've seen at Sears and putting them on a regular lawnmower (my bag catcher has a door that closes). Cost is around $35 for the blade. -- BRONCOS ! ____/| ======================================================= BRONCOS ! \ o.O| --- BRONCOS ! =(_)= 'DENVER FAN - ACK!!' (o o) BRONCOS ! U BLC email: bcampos@spock.unm.edu ------ooO-(_)-Ooo-- From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:44:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17094 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Message-ID: <1993May13.162932.13144@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 16:29:32 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 27 In article , farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: > About this time last year, I volunteered to do a Wildflower FAQ. (no, Kay, I > didn't forget. I started a project on Trillium, entered graduate school, > applied to the UTK Botany department, and took the GRE -- it's been a busy > year). Sounds like it's gonna get busier! > So, do y'all want one, and what kinds of things to you want to see in it? Just for starters... ;-) why grow natives? improved cultivars of native species easy to grow species for various regions almost impossible to grow species... which species are annuals, biennials, perennials, soil types, pH, moisture, etc. bibliographies recreations of native landscapes wildflowers in flower beds or mixed with non-natives conservation of native plants local ecotype conservation nursery raised-- what does it mean? lists of ethical wildflower seed/nursery companies ... Have fun! Kay From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:44:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17095 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Berms and Soil Prep... Please advise. Message-ID: <1993May13.163637.13145@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 16:36:37 -0600 References: <1993May13.175951.5515@VFL.Paramax.COM> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 23 In article <1993May13.175951.5515@VFL.Paramax.COM>, garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/SWE/ISP]) writes: > > My backyard, heavy clay soil. is flat from house to fence. > > To get some height interest in our landscape, we are going > to build a berm which follows the fence around all three > sides of the backyard. The berm maximum height will be > about 36" and the average height will be 16". Total added > soil will be about 30 yards. How wide will these berms be? You indicate you want trees, which will need a fair amount of width... Your plan of creating a soil profile as you build up sounds OK to me. I'd probably not tamp much, but allow for natural settling. But I'm not a soils engineer... ;-) Don't forget about niceties like angle of repose. Is the fence going to backstop the berms? Can it take the stress? What happens when the fence rots from contact with the soil, and your hills slide into the neighbor's yard? But you've thought of all that, I'm sure. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!ennews!anasaz!naomi Tue May 18 23:44:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17096 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!ennews!anasaz!naomi From: naomi@anasazi.com (Naomi Walker) Subject: Re: Peonies and Ants Organization: Anasazi Inc Phx Az USA Distribution: na Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 18:02:00 GMT Message-ID: <1993May13.180200.29987@anasazi.com> References: <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com> Sender: usenet@anasazi.com (Usenet News) Lines: 22 In article <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com> dave@maven.b29.ingr.com (Dave Bradford) writes: >Why are ants (usually big black ones) always on my peonies? They seem >to start accumulating there when the flower buds swell up. I have looked >for aphids and I can't see any evidence of them. Are the ants after some >nectar? I have no noticable damage to the blooms or plant. > >Thanks. >-- >Dave Bradford debradfo@maven.b29.ingr.com (Internet) > I dont know, but I was told I catn grow peonies in Phoenix, Arizona, because we dont have black ants. The mystery continues. -- Naomi Walker (aka N7FSA) naomi@anasazi.com Phoenix, Arizona To get the full value of joy, you must have someone to divide it with. ---Mark Twain From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:44:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17097 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help my Weeping Cherry Tree! Message-ID: <1993May13.164809.13146@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 16:48:09 -0600 References: <16BCDCD12.M17975@MBVM.Mitre.Org> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 37 In article <16BCDCD12.M17975@MBVM.Mitre.Org>, M17975@MBVM.Mitre.Org (Marilyn A. DeLuca) writes: > Help! I have a small weeping cherry tree 6-7 feet tall that desparately needs > some assistance from a knowledgable source. My 5 year old daughter peeled > an 18 inch strip of bark off the tree. The stripped area completely encircles > the tree which is approximately 2-3 inches in diameter. One area nursery > I called said to use pruning paint as he thinks this tree gets its nutrients > from the wood instead of the bark. I don't know if this is true and would > appreciate any information as quickly as possible to try and save my tree! First, do not kill the kid. Very important. She might be a budding plant anatomist. ;-) Your tree has been girdled. You need to do a "bridge graft" ASAP across the strip of peeled bark in order to save the tree. A good pruning and grafting book from the library can guide you through it -- it isn't too tough. Basically you peel bark from a branch and place vertical bark strips across the girdled portion, then cover with grafting wax or grafting rubber to preserve moisture. If you can't get grafting wax, beeswax followed by a burlap wrap has been known to work. A _new_ utility knife blade can successfully substitute for a grafting knife here. Then pray. Don't use tree wound paint. Personally, I'd also cut a bunch of twigs from the tree and try to get them to root, so you've got a backup if the tree doesn't make it. Also, you'll need to reduce water stress on the tree this summer as much as possible. Pick all young fruits. Water in dry spells. Make sure it goes into the winter well-watered (but not sitting in waterlogged soil). Your informant at the nursery would benefit from a basic botany class. Wood is dead. The living part of a tree trunk is the cambium -- that thin greenish layer just under the bark. Your daughter probably peeled that, too, with the rest of the bark. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:44:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17098 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Hay mulch (was Re: straw mulches?) Message-ID: <1993May13.170040.13147@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 17:00:40 -0600 References: <1993May2.204102.2661@math.ucla.edu> <1993May3.202205.12902@iscsvax.uni.edu> <7413@dciem.dciem.dnd.ca> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 29 In article <7413@dciem.dciem.dnd.ca>, king@dciem.dciem.dnd.ca (Stephen King) writes: > In article <1993May3.202205.12902@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >>Don't buy hay for a mulch, though. Since hay is cut _flowering and fruiting_ >>plants, you have a much greater risk of introducing weeds seeds than if > > I would like to refer readers to 'The No-Work Garden Book', by Ruth Stout. > Ms Stout used a thick hay mulch (~6 inches) in ALL her garden beds to great > avail. Since reading her book, and because I have a good source for hay, I > have tried to follow her advice. Now, I would not consider anything else > for my garden. I leave the hay in bales for 1-2 months so that the rain and > sun 'season' it. This reduces the allergic reaction (!) I have to fresh hay > and helps to eliminate most of the weed seeds. Spread thickly enough, the > hay prevents the occurance of weeds, decomposes to enrich my soil, and > provides a haven for the millions of earthworms which now inhabit the > garden. According to Ms Stout, agricultural experts who could not believe > that her methods worked, rewrote their textbooks after a visit to her > garden. It's been a few years since I've read Ruth Stout's book, but I _think_ she was using salt hay, hayed seashore plants. Since they are adapted to highly saline soils, these plants rarely become weeds in gardens if there are any seeds carried along. I still prefer straw to hay for mulches. Even though the weed seeds don't grow this year, or as long as you mulch, you're adding long-lived weed seeds to the soil's seed bank. Just wait till you don't mulch! Weed city! Kay From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!jareed Tue May 18 23:44:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17099 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!jareed From: jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) Subject: How do I start a FAQ? (Kay? Anyone?) Message-ID: <1993May13.135944.17757@newstand.syr.edu> Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY Date: Thu, 13 May 93 13:59:44 EDT Lines: 9 I posted before, but no one gave me the info I need. I'm willing to do an herb FAQ, if someone will tell me where to put it, and point me to some others in the same loc so I can check them for format. If someone else is already doing it, please tell me so I don't duplicate the effort, I'll send you my stuff. Judith Reed jareed@syr.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!concertina!fiddler Tue May 18 23:44:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17100 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!concertina!fiddler From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Leatherjackets(Marsh Crane Fly) Date: 13 May 1993 17:46:39 GMT Organization: Sun Lines: 22 Message-ID: References: <24189@mindlink.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina In article <24189@mindlink.bc.ca> Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >From the early rumours that I am hearing it looks like this might be a bad >year here for Marsh Crane Fly, also known as Leatherjackets. I don't know >much about them and the only control method for bad infestions that I have >read about features Diazinon. >Can anyone tell me more about this insect? Are there are any environmentally >friendly controls if they start to be a real problem? >Thanks in advance for your help. Crane flies? Look like *really* IMMENSE mosquitoes? What's the problem? (The ones out here, other than inducing heart palpitations in small children, don't *act* like mosquitoes...some of them eat mosquitoes, though.) Are they eating my Basil while my back is turned? -- "...Then anyone who leaves behind him a written manual, and likewise anyone who receives it, in the belief that such writing will be clear and certain, must be exceedingly simple-minded..." Plato, _Phaedrus_ ------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!fluke!toad Tue May 18 23:44:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17101 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!fluke!toad From: toad@tc.fluke.COM (Samantha Zistatsis) Subject: potato bugs Message-ID: <1993May13.223027.4107@tc.fluke.COM> Keywords: bugs Organization: John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc., Everett, WA Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 22:30:27 GMT Lines: 9 Are potato bugs bad? We have lots of them crawling all over (not to mention the number that like living in the house). I'm not sure that potato bug is the right name: they are oval, roll up into a ball, have lots of legs, and are dark gray to black in color. We grow them to 1/2" - 3/4". Samantha Zistatsis John Fluke Mfg. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!csc.ti.com!tilde.csc.ti.com!cauldron!epcot!drogers Tue May 18 23:44:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17102 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!csc.ti.com!tilde.csc.ti.com!cauldron!epcot!drogers From: drogers@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Daty Rogers) Subject: Re: Mulching Blades ??? Message-ID: <1993May13.221427.28844@spdc.ti.com> Sender: usenet@spdc.ti.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: epcot Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center References: <1sueamINN5e0@lynx.unm.edu> Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 22:14:27 GMT Lines: 20 In article <1sueamINN5e0@lynx.unm.edu> bcampos@spock.unm.edu (Benny Campos) writes: >I've seen a few posts on Mulching -vs- Bagging the last few weeks, the >question I have for the net is this. Does anyone have any experence with >buying just the mulching blades I've seen at Sears and putting them on >a regular lawnmower (my bag catcher has a door that closes). Cost >is around $35 for the blade. > This is the route I took(on a Sear's mower, no less). I found the blade for around $20 at Walmart. Installation took about 15 minutes(10 minutes to find the tools). I did notice that the blade is heavier, and therefore the RPM's aren't as high as before. The clippings are not noticable on top, and since I did this last year I have noticed my overall lawn health increase. I also don't have the mess that I did with the side discharge. One crevat, I never bagged my yard, and I still noticed an improvement from side discharge to the mulching blade. My mowing regime did not change, and I'm careful about the amount of grass I cut, and I tend to leave it long. BTW, this is bermuda and fully organic. Bermuda is about the only thing that holds up during summer heat in Texas. Daty From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a2915 Tue May 18 23:45:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17103 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a2915 From: Christine_Code@mindlink.bc.ca (Christine Code) Subject: Re: Control Ants Organically Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 22:51:52 GMT Message-ID: <24237@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 24 bsingh@winton.Corp.Sun.COM asked: >Any suggestions on an organic way to control ants ? I keep spraying and Andrew Ostrander replied: > For what it's worth, I have heard that cucumber peelings left on the > ground will repel ants. I've heard the same thing about bay leaves. If either of these solutions works, please let the rest of us know! ...Christine -- ========================================================================== Christine Code * * Those who can, garden. Vancouver, B.C, CANADA * And those who garden, can. Christine_Code@MindLink.bc.ca * ========================================================================== From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:45:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17104 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How do I start a FAQ? Message-ID: <1993May13.180245.13149@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 18:02:45 -0600 References: <1993May13.135944.17757@newstand.syr.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 18 In article <1993May13.135944.17757@newstand.syr.edu>, jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) writes: > I posted before, but no one gave me the info I need. I'm willing > to do an herb FAQ, if someone will tell me where to put it, and > point me to some others in the same loc so I can check them for > format. If someone else is already doing it, please tell me so > I don't duplicate the effort, I'll send you my stuff. All FAQs, partial FAQs, and contributions toward FAQs are welcome. Larry London has done the hard part of arranging for space at sunsite.unc.edu. If you write a whole FAQ, you can post it to the net for comments and revisions, then send it on to Larry. If you want a hand with part of the FAQ, or help with editing, or just some pep talk, send it on to me. Eventually it winds up at sunsite... ;-) Kay (who is going to hunt fossil plants this weekend because the orchids aren't far enough along...) From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:45:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17105 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How do I start a FAQ? Message-ID: <1993May13.180727.13150@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 18:07:27 -0600 References: <1993May13.135944.17757@newstand.syr.edu> <1993May13.180245.13149@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 15 In article <1993May13.135944.17757@newstand.syr.edu>, jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) writes: > I posted before, but no one gave me the info I need. I'm willing > to do an herb FAQ, if someone will tell me where to put it, and > point me to some others in the same loc so I can check them for > format. I hunted around for something like an official FAQ format, and finally stole the organization from Cindy Tittle-Moore, keeper extraordinaire of several FAQs. Since I'm not talented enough to spawn processes and all the other cute things computer-literate folks do, I'll just post a small chunk of the fertilizer FAQ as a model in the next post. Kay From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:45:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17106 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Model FAQ Message-ID: <1993May13.181058.13151@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 18:10:58 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 41 Part of the fertilizer FAQ, as a possible structural model for others. __________________________ FERTILIZER FAQL Initial writing by Kay Klier, using materials from a wide variety of sources. Primarily written from the point of view of NPK. Needs work on using green manures and cover crops as nutrient sources, since I mainly use them to add organic matter. CONTENTS: I. Fertilizer overview II. Plant nutrients III. What is a complete formula for plants? IV. The numbers on the fertilizer sack V. Calculating amounts of fertilizer to apply VI. When to fertilize VII. Methods of application A. Commercial formulations 1. Dry 2. Soluble B. Natural forms VIII. Fertilizers vs. soil amendments ... I. FERTILIZER OVERVIEW Fertilizers are materials that contain appreciable amounts of plant nutrients. Probably the most familiar categories of fertilizer are "chemical" vs. "organic": these could better be termed synthetic vs. natural. ... II. PLANT NUTRIENTS Besides carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, the essential minerals for most plants are: ... From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Tue May 18 23:45:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17107 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: potato bugs Message-ID: Keywords: bugs Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <1993May13.223027.4107@tc.fluke.COM> Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 23:26:04 GMT Lines: 20 In article <1993May13.223027.4107@tc.fluke.COM> toad@tc.fluke.COM (Samantha Zistatsis) writes: >Are potato bugs bad? We have lots of them crawling all over (not >to mention the number that like living in the house). I'm not sure >that potato bug is the right name: they are oval, roll up into a ball, >have lots of legs, and are dark gray to black in color. We grow them >to 1/2" - 3/4". > >Samantha Zistatsis >John Fluke Mfg. > I think that what you are talking about are called pill bugs or sow bugs. Do they look like an armadillo's back in minature? I think that they only eat rotting stuff. Colorado potato beeteles are something else entirely. JOhn snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpl-opus!walker Tue May 18 23:45:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17108 of rec.gardens From: walker@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Rick Walker) Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 23:01:26 GMT Subject: Re: Buying Venus Fly Traps Message-ID: <64820032@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com> Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpl-opus!walker Newsgroups: rec.gardens References: <1993May13.021649.19397@bsu-ucs> Lines: 21 In rec.gardens, malouf@estd.nrl.navy.mil (MALOUF, PERRY) writes: > > Can somebody give me the number of a place I can order some venus flyy > >traps and other carnivorous plants. > > Two good sources are listed here: > > Botanique Nursery > > Peter Pauls Nurseries The complete address for Peter Paul's is: Peter Pauls Nurseries, Canandaigya, NY 14424, USA (716) 394-7397 You can get a list of addresses of carnivorous plant (CP) suppliers from the CP mailing group archives by sending the message: "get cp cp.suppliers" to the address "listserv@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com". -- Rick From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:45:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17109 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: How to get to the FAQs Message-ID: <1993May13.184449.13152@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 May 93 18:44:49 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 31 How I get to the rec.gardens FAQ's (as written by a computer dunderhead) Type anything that's all in caps below directly into the computer, as the prompts come up. >From our system prompt, I type: TELNET SUNSITE.UNC.EDU and get back: login: GOPHER terminal type? VT100 At this point you have the first gopher menu up. Choose "3" (sunsite archives), then "6" (sustainable ag information), then 1 (browse) or 4 (search) sustainable ag. If you chose "browse", choose "10" (sustainable ag) from the next menu, then "32" (recgardens), which gets you to our actual FAQs. _________________________ If you're wais-literate (I'm not, but I'm trying), try logging in as SWAIS after telnetting to sunsite. BTW, there are some neat things out there in other parts of the sunsite archives. I noticed a pesticide toxicology database tonight, just as a "fer-instance". Kay From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!opl.com!psinntp!psinntp!commpost!cerebus!earl Tue May 18 23:45:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17110 of rec.gardens Xref: samba misc.consumers.house:33328 rec.gardens:17110 Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!opl.com!psinntp!psinntp!commpost!cerebus!earl From: earl@cerebus.pilot.dmg.ml.com (Earl Chen) Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Power reel mowers? was: Mulching mowers summary Message-ID: Date: 11 May 93 19:50:05 GMT References: <1s8m1aINNsm@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> <1993May10.232937.17742@pony.Ingres.COM> Sender: earl@cerebus (Earl Chen) Organization: Merrill Lynch Debt Markets Group Lines: 5 Who still makes reel mowers and what's a good brand? I need to buy a mower and I like the idea of a reel mower, but I haven't seen one in ages. -earl- earl@acm.org From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!swrinde!news.dell.com!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland Tue May 18 23:45:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17111 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!swrinde!news.dell.com!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland From: breland@mcc.com (Mark A. Breland) Subject: Re: McElwain Disconnected... Message-ID: Sender: news@mcc.com Reply-To: breland@mcc.com Organization: MCC References: Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 23:58:42 GMT Lines: 25 In article 5Cy@taurus.cs.nps.navy.mil, shimeall@cs.nps.navy.mil (timothy shimeall) writes: >Seen on misc.kids: > >In article <1993May11.151839.9080@PacBell.COM> smmyers@foghorn.srv.pacbell.com (Sean Myers) writes: >> >>> On Friday, May 7, 1993 Mr. Robert McElwain's access to the Internet was >>> revoked by the University of Wisconsin - Eau Claire. This action was >>> taken because of Mr. McElwaine's refusal to abide by University of >>> Wisconsin - Eau Claire network usage policies, and the provisions of >>> policy statements issued by WiscNet and CREN. But he'll be BACK! As soon as ACCESS is GAINED through a personal COMPUTER over any Compu$erve-like $ERVICE! So hold your EARS, for he's discovered a NEW MEANS for AUTOMATICALLY playing the Audioletters on your computer SPEAKER. No more enormously LONG POSTS...just REAMS of NOISE spewing forth on the NA$A space travel FALLACY, the NATURAL way to avoid CANCER, the MYTH of tranSISTORS, and the conspiracy to REMOTELY LINK our vacuum cleaners to rotary pay TELEPHONE$ from which our BRAINS will be $UCKED OUT! --- Mark A. Breland - Microelectronics and Computer Technology Corporation (MCC) Ada Fault Tolerance | voice: (512) 338-3509 3500 West Balcones Center Drive | FAX: (512) 338-3900 Austin, Texas 78759-6509 USA | internet: breland@mcc.com From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!nucsrl!tellab5!kleiser Tue May 18 23:45:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17112 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!nucsrl!tellab5!kleiser From: kleiser@tellabs.com (Steve Kleiser) Subject: Letting Cucumbers & pumpkins climb Message-ID: <1993May13.175950.22888@tellab5.tellabs.com> Sender: news@tellab5.tellabs.com (News) Nntp-Posting-Host: tellab1 Organization: Tellabs, Lisle, IL Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 17:59:50 GMT Lines: 17 Hello fellow gardeners. In order to conserve space, I'd like to let my pumpkins and cucumbers climb this year. One of my neglected pumpkin vines climbed a tomatoe stake last year, & did fairly well. Do any of you folks have suggestions as to what would be a good (sturdy, inexpensive, attractive) support for them? Thanks! -- -- ______________________________________________________________________ | | | | | kleiser@tellabs.com | | Any opinions expressed above | | ...!uunet!tellab5!kleiser | | are my own, and not neces- | | | | sarily those of my employer. | |___________________________|___________|______________________________| From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 Tue May 18 23:45:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17113 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 From: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) Subject: Re: Organic Fertilizers $$$ Message-ID: Sender: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: student.tc.umn.edu Organization: University of Minnesota References: <1993May13.170711.16495@infonode.ingr.com> <1993May13.132931.13141@iscsvax.uni.edu> Distribution: na Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 01:07:08 GMT Lines: 14 Yes, besure to get a soil test. I wish more people would do that for many of our lawn and gardening situations. Just a bit to add: Chemical fertilizers are just fine to use, and do often cost less. There are many kinds of slow release forms. The methylene ureas are good, and so is IBDU, if it can be found. I would recommend looking for the percentage of fast vs slow release on the bag. I think most do give that info. If you want to use an organic fertilizer, Milorganite might be cheaper, and local brands may also be cheaper. Here in MN a Northrup King organic is much less than the Ringer brands, as well as others. PJ From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr Tue May 18 23:45:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17114 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr From: davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: ants/Amdro Message-ID: <1suv75$2d6@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 14 May 93 02:12:52 GMT Article-I.D.: walt.1suv75$2d6 References: <1stt2g$nro@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Lines: 13 NNTP-Posting-Host: ursula.ee.pdx.edu wes@sscvx1 ( Wes Smith) writes: >In article <1stt2g$nro@walt.ee.pdx.edu>, davidr@flotsam.ee.pdx.edu >Amdro is marketed specifically for fire ants, so if you don't have them in >your area it may not be readily available. I guess that counts me out... We have a problem with hills and hills of little tiny sugar ants! Any one know the best product to use on these little beasties? Normally, I don't mind them, but they are multiplying faster than my berries -n- such! Thanks, David Robinson From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr Tue May 18 23:45:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17115 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr From: davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Letting Cucumbers & pumpkins climb Message-ID: <1suve6$2h2@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 14 May 93 02:16:38 GMT Article-I.D.: walt.1suve6$2h2 References: <1993May13.175950.22888@tellab5.tellabs.com> Distribution: usa Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: ursula.ee.pdx.edu kleiser@tellabs.com (Steve Kleiser) writes: > In order to conserve space, I'd like to let my pumpkins and >cucumbers climb this year. One of my neglected pumpkin vines >climbed a tomatoe stake last year, & did fairly well. > Do any of you folks have suggestions as to what would be a >good (sturdy, inexpensive, attractive) support for them? I've never grown pumpkins vertically, but I use concrete re-inforcement wire (2" mesh) for my cucumbers. Just make a 90 degree bend in it, and it will stand by itself once its anchored to the ground. -David Robinson From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!csd.unb.ca!news.ucs.mun.ca!morgan!bbrett Tue May 18 23:45:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17116 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!csd.unb.ca!news.ucs.mun.ca!morgan!bbrett From: bbrett@morgan.ucs.mun.ca (Betsy Brett) Subject: Non-Stop Begonias stopped! (flowers fell off) Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.ucs.mun.ca (NNTP server account) Organization: Memorial University of Newfoundland Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 03:14:09 GMT Lines: 17 I bought a pale pink "Non-Stop Begonia" on Saturday. Today (Thursday) the one blooming flower and 2 buds fell off! The flower did not look to me to be ready to die, and certainly the buds weren't. I am wondering if anyone had some possible reasons for this? I think my sister may have sprayed all my plants yesterday, so I though they may have been weighted down with water. Another thing that came to mind was maybe it is too wet in the soil. I put it in a larger pot when I came home and thus had new soil which had to be moistened. Perhaps this has aggrevated the plant??? Any help is welcome! I don't want my plant to die!!! Thanks very much. -- "It is the struggle itself that is most important. We must strive to be more than we are. It does not matter that we will never reach our ultimate goal. The effort yields its own rewards." -Data, to daughter, Lal. (ST:TNG, "The Offspring") ****** Betsy Brett email: bbrett@morgan.ucs.mun.ca ****** From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Tue May 18 23:45:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17117 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Peonies and Ants Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 03:45:42 GMT Message-ID: <24250@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 20 In response to Dave Bradford: dave@maven.b29.ingr.com >Why are ants (usually big black ones) always on my peonies? They seem >to start accumulating there when the flower buds swell up. I have looked >for aphids and I can't see any evidence of them. Are the ants after some >nectar? I have no noticable damage to the blooms or plant. I had exactly this same question about my peonies last year. Ants, usually big black ones, running all over the peony buds when they started to swell up. I watched them really carefully and, like you, couldn't see that they were doing any damage to the blooms or the plant and also never saw an aphid. Working on the principle that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", I decided to leave everything alone and just watch the situation. The flowers bloomed beautifully, clearly the buds hadn't been damaged, and as soon as the flowers came into bloom all the ants seemed to disappear. So, I can't answer your "why it happens" question but I can assure you that it isn't unusual (I have since talked to several peony growers around here who report the same sequence) and better yet you don't need to do anything about it except possibly take a magnifying glass out and watch the show. -Moira Carlson From samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!asuacad!icsaa Tue May 18 23:45:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17118 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!asuacad!icsaa Organization: Arizona State University Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 20:16:29 MST From: Message-ID: <93133.201629ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Distribution: usa,na References: <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com> Lines: 7 Mulching bermuda will not kill it. Parking a huge truck on bermuda will not kill bermuda. Spraying Roundup will not kill bermuda. My dog Jeff urinating will not kill bermuda. Setting it on fire _might_ kill bermuda but I have my doubts. Scraping the top 8" of soil off and sifting out every piece of rhhizome slows bermuda down a little. Stefani who is nearly distracted by the stuff. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Tue May 18 23:45:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17119 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Leatherjackets #2 Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 04:00:22 GMT Message-ID: <24253@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 32 In response to John Snyder: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu >Do crane flies when they are young live in water like mosquito larva? No they don't. The eggs are laid just below the surface of the soil. When they hatch out the young leatherjackets eat any roots they come in contact with. Typically they lay the eggs in our lawns (one mother leatherjacket can lay about 300 eggs) so when they hatch out the lawn starts turning brown as the babies eat the grass roots and kill the lawn. If they hatch out in flowerbeds they will eat whatever looks appealing -I don't think they are picky eaters. >Do bats eat crane flies? I have no idea, but will attempt to check into this. >Another idea is to find out what kind of birds eat them (swallows maybe?) >and build houses for those birds. I was talking to a friend today who says during the last infestation of these things (I think about 25 years ago - seems to be a cyclical thing) his lawn was completely infested with thousands of leatherjackets. He was just about to spray with the suggested chemical (Diazanon) when a flock of starlings arrived looking much like extras from Alfred Hitchcock's "The Birds". Anyway, his lawn became wall-to-wall starlings for about an hour and then they flew away. He checked his lawn and couldn't find one leatherjacket! I would prefer the swallows, but isn't it nice to know that there is some use for starlings after all. Birds are definitely high on my list of potential allies I think. Thanks for your suggestions. -Moira Carlson From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ennews!mcdphx!schbbs!waccvm.corp.mot.com!AVRK90 Tue May 18 23:45:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17120 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ennews!mcdphx!schbbs!waccvm.corp.mot.com!AVRK90 From: AVRK90@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Kevin Cox) Subject: White Marigolds: Revisited Organization: Motorola Date: 13 May 1993 19:54:40 MST Message-ID: <1993May14.030020.12786@schbbs.mot.com> Sender: news@schbbs.mot.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: waccvm.corp.mot.com Lines: 9 A month or so ago there was some discusion on whether Burpees 'white marigolds' (French Vanila) were actually white. Well, mine are blooming and they are more of a cream/VERY light yellow color. Almost white! Keep trying Burpees! They are pretty tho...just thought I'd let you all know. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= | Kevin Cox -=AVRK90@WACCVM.CORP.MOT.COM=- Motorola, Scottsdale Arizona | =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ennews!mcdphx!schbbs!waccvm.corp.mot.com!AVRK90 Tue May 18 23:45:24 EDT 1993 Article: 17121 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ennews!mcdphx!schbbs!waccvm.corp.mot.com!AVRK90 From: AVRK90@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Kevin Cox) Subject: Re: potato bugs Organization: Motorola Date: 13 May 1993 20:07:17 MST Message-ID: <1993May14.031255.12900@schbbs.mot.com> Sender: news@schbbs.mot.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: waccvm.corp.mot.com Lines: 25 >In article <1993May13.223027.4107@tc.fluke.COM> toad@tc.fluke.COM (Samantha Zis >>Are potato bugs bad? We have lots of them crawling all over (not >>to mention the number that like living in the house). I'm not sure >>that potato bug is the right name: they are oval, roll up into a ball, >>have lots of legs, and are dark gray to black in color. We grow them >>to 1/2" - 3/4". >> >>Samantha Zistatsis >>John Fluke Mfg. >> > > >From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) >I think that what you are talking about are called pill bugs or sow bugs. >Do they look like an armadillo's back in minature? I think that they only eat >rotting stuff. Colorado potato beeteles are something else entirely. > OK, how do we get rid of them? They are destroying my strawberries! Anyone have any ideas? The least toxic the better, thanks! =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= | Kevin Cox -=AVRK90@WACCVM.CORP.MOT.COM=- Motorola, Scottsdale Arizona | =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From samba!concert!gatech!emory!ogicse!psgrain!ee.und.ac.za!shrike.und.ac.za!shrike.und.ac.za!dace Tue May 18 23:45:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17122 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!emory!ogicse!psgrain!ee.und.ac.za!shrike.und.ac.za!shrike.und.ac.za!dace From: dace@shrike.und.ac.za (Roy Dace) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Hot Pepper spray for controlling insects? Message-ID: <1sve95$l6b@shrike.und.ac.za> Date: 14 May 93 06:29:57 GMT Article-I.D.: shrike.1sve95$l6b References: <1993May13.061952.10638@ncsu.edu> Organization: University of Natal (Durban), South Africa Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: shrike.und.ac.za X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] MATTHEW NELSON DAILEY (mndailey@eos.ncsu.edu) wrote: : I've read that a spray prepared from an infusion of hot pepper and : garlic (soak some chopped pepper and garlic in an equal amount of : water 24 hours then dilute) helps control insects. : Anybody tried this? With success? No, but I read an article in the paper (I think) recently about a new marine paint containing hot pepper oils which is apparently effective against mollusks and crustaceans settling on boats etc. Not strictly on topic but I thought people might be interested Hal From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!tarpit!tous!jwt!hrick Tue May 18 23:45:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17123 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!tarpit!tous!jwt!hrick From: bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org (Rick Harrison) Subject: Re: Control Ants Organically Reply-To: bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org Organization: The Matrix Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 07:50:25 GMT Message-ID: References: <24237@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: bbs@jwt.UUCP Lines: 13 > bsingh@winton.Corp.Sun.COM asked: > > >Any suggestions on an organic way to control ants ? I keep spraying I've heard that mint plants will repel ants. When I find that fire ants have built a nest in one of my raised beds, I will put some spearmint or peppermint runners in the bed. Usually this causes the ants to move elsewhere. Whether they hate the smell of the mint, or the frequent watering that I give the newly transplanted mint stolons, I don't know. I've read that citrus oils, such as orange oil, will kill ants and fleas. From samba!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf Tue May 18 23:45:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17124 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf From: adamf@hopper.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: University of Virginia Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 10:31:09 GMT Lines: 32 Expires: References: <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com> <93133.201629ICSAA@asuacad.bitnet> Sender: Followup-To: Distribution: usa,na Organization: ITC/UVA Community Access UNIX/Internet Project Keywords: In article <93133.201629ICSAA@asuacad.bitnet> writes: > >Mulching bermuda will not kill it. Parking a huge truck on bermuda will >not kill bermuda. Spraying Roundup will not kill bermuda. My dog Jeff >urinating will not kill bermuda. Setting it on fire _might_ kill bermuda >but I have my doubts. Scraping the top 8" of soil off and sifting out every >piece of rhhizome slows bermuda down a little. > >Stefani who is nearly distracted by the stuff. Dear Stefani, I empathize - Bermuda grass can keep one awake at night. Try calling a friend of mine who is a bermuda eradication expert. Her name is Ellen Polishuk Phone # 703-759-2119. Ellen is a certified Organic farmer in northern Virginia with years of experience and practical information- She works hard, so call before 9:00 pm, else she might be sleeping. Good Luck, Adam adamf@virginia.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!leafusa!lorinda Tue May 18 23:45:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17125 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!leafusa!lorinda From: lorinda@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Lorinda Brandon) Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Message-ID: Sender: usenet@HQ.Ileaf.COM Nntp-Posting-Host: alan Organization: Interleaf, Inc. References: Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 11:25:39 GMT Lines: 7 What do I want to see in a wildflower FAQ? Well, I plan to put in a wildflower bed this year (ok, maybe next, since the weekends seem to be slipping by me) and I thought I would just buy one of those big cans of wildflower seeds that they sell in the gardening stores. But I need to know what kind of fertilizer, if any, they need? Will I have problems with them escaping their beds and taking over my yard? Are they perennials or will I have to create the bed every year? Will they bring stinging insects to my yard (I have a toddler and another baby on the way so I'd like to keep the yard as safe as possible)? I would like to hang bird feeders in the surrounding trees and place a bird bath in the middle of the bed. As picturesque as this seems, is it practical? rds attracted to the wildflowers the way I imagine them to be? Maybe not FAQ material, I don't know. But any responses would be welcome. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!westendorf Tue May 18 23:45:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17126 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!westendorf From: westendorf@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help needed with Asparagus Message-ID: <1993May14.065421.13158@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 14 May 93 06:54:21 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 6 What are the benefits and disadvantages of using a regular variety of asparagus instead of the new improved super male variety. Does asparagus reproduce and produce more each year? Anyone have any input on this. Help! Mary From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme Tue May 18 23:45:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17127 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme From: cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help! dying yew Date: 14 May 1993 08:30 EST Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 33 Distribution: world Message-ID: <14MAY199308305807@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: lims01.lerc.nasa.gov News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 I have 4 big yews in my front bed. One of them has turned brown over the last month or two and is nearly dead.The shrubs are 4 ft. in diameter and nearly touch each other. The other 3 yews have had new growth (though the new growth has yellowed somewhat over the last week). I've gotten conflicting comments from the local extension service. The first person I talked to suggested scale and told me to mail in a clipping. I called back after I got the form, and talked to a different horticulturist. He said to forget the clipping and said it was probably a root problem - either root rot or the black boll weevil beetle (I may be remembering the name wrong) which causes a lot of damage to Taxus and rhodedendrons in Ohio. I dug shallow holes about 1-1/2 ft. out from the centers of the sick shrub and the farthest away healthy one. The results were identical: slightly damp, black clay with a few white roots @ 1/8" in diameter showing. The only bugs were a pillbug-like critter with about 10 legs and a small centipede-like critter. I'm in Cleveland (Zone 6). We haven't had rain for about 10 days, but we're 3" above average for the year. The bed faces W-NW and the sick yew gets slightly less sun than the others. The other bed residents (hostas, pachysandra, & azaleas) are doing fine. The bed is mulched with fabric covered by 1" of large bark chips. We had several heavy snows last winter, but I knocked at least some of the snow off the yews within days in each case. Any suggestions of things to consider, look for etc., would be greatly appreciated. Its OK if the one shrub doesn't recover, but I'd hate to lose all four. - Marty --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Marty Zimmerman | There are three types of lies; cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov | lies, damn lies, and statistics | - Mark Twain --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!emory!not-for-mail Tue May 18 23:45:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17128 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!emory!not-for-mail From: vicki@mathcs.emory.edu (Vicki Powers) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: organic/non-organic fertilizers Date: 14 May 1993 09:21:28 -0400 Organization: Emory University, Dept of Math and CS Lines: 12 Message-ID: <1t06cpINNl3p@octaman.mathcs.emory.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: octaman.mathcs.emory.edu I've been using only organic fertilizers because I have heard that non-organic fertilizers kill beneficial micro-organisms in the soil and that the manufacturing process is bad for the enviornment. Are either of these claims true? Vicki -- Vicki Powers | When a student reads in a math book that there are no Emory University | absolutes, suddenly every value he's been taught is Dept of Math and CS | destroyed. And the next thing you know, the student Atlanta, GA 30322 | turns to crime and drugs. - Mel Gabler From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Tue May 18 23:45:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17129 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Transplanting Columbines Date: 14 May 1993 13:41:33 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 19 Message-ID: <1t07id$oq4@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu While out rose-rustling I found some escaped columbines growing along a fence line. I dug up some to plant around my house. Are they tough enough to withstand transplanting now? I sure hope so; they're a very nice orange-red with yellow interiors. (BTW I KNOW they were escapes; they were growing at the bottom of heap of discards in a local cemetery, must have been in a pot at one time and got tossed----hmmmm.... if they could survive THAT). I think I just answered my own question, but I'd like to hear from some columbine fans on the net. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * DECONSTRUCTION--- the critical method invented A-B College * by Procrustes Philippi, WV * * From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!rk30+ Tue May 18 23:45:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17130 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!rk30+ From: Ruth Kline Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: $10K for white marigold Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 09:38:19 -0400 Organization: Information Services, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 6 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: po4.andrew.cmu.edu I remember some time ago Burpee was offering $10,000 to anyone who could produce a white marigold. I wonder if the "French Vanilla" marigold developer collected the money -- or is Burpee still looking for a pure white marigold? Anyone know? -- Ruth Kline, Carnegie Mellon University From samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!mailer.cc.fsu.edu!sun13!ds8.scri.fsu.edu!jac Tue May 18 23:45:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17131 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!mailer.cc.fsu.edu!sun13!ds8.scri.fsu.edu!jac From: jac@ds8.scri.fsu.edu (Jim Carr) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: ants/Amdro Message-ID: <12713@sun13.scri.fsu.edu> Date: 14 May 93 13:05:05 GMT References: <1stt2g$nro@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Sender: news@sun13.scri.fsu.edu Organization: Supercomputer Computations Research Institute Lines: 34 In article <1stt2g$nro@walt.ee.pdx.edu> davidr@flotsam.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) writes: >As per the recent discussion of ridding your plot o' land of ants >with Amdro: Not ants -- fire ants. I have no idea if Amdro works for your generic ant, and I hope not since a major goal of fire ant control is to keep your regular ant population healthy so they will fill that niche in the yard, slowing movement of fire ants into the area. >Is this the actual chemical, or is this a brand name? My Aunt >tryed to locate some Amdro yesterday, and out of two nursuries, >none had heard of it. If Amdro is a brand name, could somebody >look up what the "active ingredient" is? Thanks. "Amdro" is a product of the American Cyanimid Company. Its active ingredient is called "Hydramethylon", which is short for a truly heroic chemical name -- must be at least 200 characters long. The bulk of Amdro is a bait, basically ground corn, since if functions by having the ants take it home and feed it to the queen, thus killing the entire mound. And boy do they love to haul the stuff home! I don't know where pdx.edu is, but if you do not have fire ants I doubt if Amdro would be stocked at your local poison outlet. Your best last chance would be a place frequented by farmers where they sell stuff that requires a license to apply, but first find out what kind of ants you have and ask local suppliers what is best. If they are in your house, you should consult an exterminator. -- J. A. Carr | "The New Frontier of which I Florida State University B-186 | speak is not a set of promises Supercomputer Computations Research Institute | -- it is a set of challenges." Tallahassee, FL 32306-4052 | John F. Kennedy (15 July 60) From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm Tue May 18 23:45:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17132 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm From: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (SSGM) Subject: Re: Transplanting Columbines Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC References: <1t07id$oq4@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 14:42:16 GMT Lines: 32 In article <1t07id$oq4@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) writes: |> |> While out rose-rustling I found some escaped columbines growing along a fence |> line. I dug up some to plant around my house. Are they tough enough to |> withstand transplanting now? I sure hope so; they're a very nice orange-red |> with yellow interiors. |> |> (BTW I KNOW they were escapes; they were growing at the bottom of heap |> of discards in a local cemetery, must have been in a pot at one time |> and got tossed----hmmmm.... if they could survive THAT). |> |> I think I just answered my own question, but I'd like to hear from some |> columbine fans on the net. |> |> J. Del Col |> -- |> Jeff Del Col * DECONSTRUCTION--- the critical method invented |> A-B College * by Procrustes |> Philippi, WV * |> * You shouldn't have any problems transplanting now as long as you take the usual care: don't let the roots dry out, water well, etc. It sounds from your description that you have the native species (Aquilegia Canadensis?) which should grow like gangbusters in W. Va. Since columbines tend to be short-lived (3-4 yrs for me), be sure to collect seeds in July. They'll also self-sow, I'm sure. These guys are extremely easy to propagate (after all, I've done it :-) ). Have Fun! Tom Dugan Naval Research Laboratory, Washington DC ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!infonode!dianne.b24a.ingr.com!dianne Tue May 18 23:45:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17133 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!infonode!dianne.b24a.ingr.com!dianne From: dianne@dianne.b24a.ingr.com (Dianne Ferrans) Subject: Trees and Grass and many questions Message-ID: <1993May14.150157.8424@infonode.ingr.com> Sender: usenet@infonode.ingr.com (Usenet Administrator) Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL. Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 15:01:57 GMT Lines: 51 Hello all This is my first post to this group, so please forgive my ignorance. I have recently aquired my very first house, and by extension, my first yard. I have several questions: (lots of problems) (Location: North Alabama (Huntsville)/Tennessee valley area) 1. I have two large trees near the house, which my neighbor claims are tulip poplars. Both have large cavities in the base, in one tree it's about two feet high and about a foot deep, in the second it's about four feet high and about two feet deep. When I reach in, the wood is soft and pulpy and comes out easily, obviously badly damaged. The trees are _way_ too tall to spray. (60-80ft). I've heard that there's black goop I can put on these cavities. Do I dig out all of the soft/pulpy wood first? How do I pre-treat? Can they ever grow this area back?? How do I know if they're "unstable" due to the damage? The branches are narrow, not wide-spread, but they appear to be alive (lots of leaves). Grass type: Fescue 2. The previous owners had dogs, and built a fence 8 X 15 the bottom of which they covered with rocks to a depth of 2-3". They took the fence, left the rocks. My husband and I have picked up most on the surface (8 wheelbarrows full) but there remain rocks which have been pushed into the ground. Do I try to dig, or buy a load of topsoil and try to bury them? 3. There's another area 6 x 10 which is square and strangly enough seems to be growing only weeds - but it's perfectly square! They dumped ashes from a woodburning stove onto this area - how do I get grass to grow here? 4. Another well-shaded area is hard clay and is growing nothing. How should I treat this? 5. We have many very tall and very skinny pines on the lot. People claim these are weak wood. Do these things actually topple very often? Answer whichever ones you can. Thanks! **************************************************************************** * Dianne D. Ferrans ! I like to make everyone's day a little * * Sr. Software Stylist ! more surreal * * ddferran@dianne.b24a.ingr.com! - Calvin & Hobbes - * **************************************************************************** From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!alcuew Tue May 18 23:45:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17134 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!alcuew From: alcuew@meaddata.com (Alcue Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Control Ants Organically Date: 14 May 1993 15:08:02 GMT Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH Lines: 26 Sender: alcuew@meaddata (Alcue Williams) Distribution: world Message-ID: <1t0cki$3m1@meaddata.meaddata.com> References: <1ss3fh$bko@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> NNTP-Posting-Host: qdog.meaddata.com In article <1ss3fh$bko@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM>, bsingh@winton.Corp.Sun.COM (Baljinder Singh) writes: |> |> Any suggestions on an organic way to control ants ? I keep spraying |> insecticidal soap to control aphids, but they come back after a while. |> I assume this is because I have not done anything to control the ant |> population. |> |> Baljinder Singh |> I really don't know for sure if this is organic, but I have seen it sold under the heading of organic pest controls. It is something called boric acid. The ad said that the ants eat it and carry it back to the nest where others eat it and they die. Alcue -- ____________________________________________________________________________ | Alcue Williams III - Interactive Product Applications | | Mead Data Central alcuew@meaddata.com | | P.O. Box 933 uunet!meaddata!alcuew | | Dayton, OH 45401 (513) 865-1252 | |----------------------------------------------------------------------------| | "We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form | | up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that | | we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method | | it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, | | inefficiency, and demoralization." -Petronius Arbiter, 210 BC | |____________________________________________________________________________| From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!po.CWRU.Edu!mdt2 Tue May 18 23:45:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17135 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!po.CWRU.Edu!mdt2 From: mdt2@po.CWRU.Edu (Michael D. Thomas) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Is it a tree or a vine????? Date: 14 May 1993 15:11:54 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 10 Message-ID: <1t0crq$4ea@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu I have seen Chinese Wisteria as a vine and now I think I have seen it in a tree form. Yesterday I saw some trees with purple/blue wisteria type blooms hanging from them. The trees were maybe 7 feet tall. What did I see?, they were beautiful!!!!!! How would I obtain one and how would I care for it? Thanks for any info. -Mike From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.tek.com!shaman!Wyeast.TEKTRONIX.COM!peggys Tue May 18 23:45:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17136 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.tek.com!shaman!Wyeast.TEKTRONIX.COM!peggys From: peggys@orca.wv.tek.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Daphne Message-ID: <3324@shaman.wv.tek.com> Date: 14 May 93 15:17:17 GMT Sender: news@shaman.wv.tek.com Reply-To: peggys@orca.wv.tek.com Organization: Network Displays Manufacturing, Tektronix,Inc Lines: 13 My mom has a daphne that I bought her 10-15 yrs ago that is getting quite big. I would like to take a cutting off it and would like to know when is the best time of year to do this and what do I need to do? I've done roses once or twice using rooting compound. Would this be the same? Peggy =================================================== | Peggy Shock | | Tektronix, Inc., Network Displays Division | | PO Box 1000, MS 60-430, Wilsonville, OR 97070 | | (503) 685-2030 - email: peggys@orca.WV.TEK.COM | =================================================== From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!uunet.ca!canrem!dosgate!dosgate![david.hall@canrem.com] Tue May 18 23:45:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17137 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!uunet.ca!canrem!dosgate!dosgate![david.hall@canrem.com] From: "david hall" Subject: wild bamboo problem Message-ID: <1993May14.4198.12985@dosgate> Reply-To: "david hall" Organization: Canada Remote Systems Distribution: rec Date: 14 May 93 11:19:01 EST Lines: 17 My neighbor has some wild bamboo growing along my fence line. The roots have spread and I now have bamboo shoots sprouting up in my back yard. Is there any way to kill this plant? Or to stop it from spreading? Entered by David Hall, on Fri 05-14-93 at 11:03 ------------------------------------------------------------------- snail -> Hamilton, Ontario, Canada email -> david.hall@canrem.com ------------------------------------------------------------------- * 1st 1.10b #1113 * 1st does more by 9:00am than other readers do all day -- Canada Remote Systems - Toronto, Ontario 416-629-7000/629-7044 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!uc.msc.edu!apctrc!hawkings!hgo7!zdem0a Tue May 18 23:45:40 EDT 1993 Article: 17138 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!uc.msc.edu!apctrc!hawkings!hgo7!zdem0a From: zdem0a@hgo7.hou.amoco.com (Donna Martz) Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Message-ID: Sender: news@amoco.com Organization: Amoco Corp. References: Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 13:55:46 GMT Lines: 30 >In article <93133.201629ICSAA@asuacad.bitnet> writes: >> >>Mulching bermuda will not kill it. Parking a huge truck on bermuda will >>not kill bermuda. Spraying Roundup will not kill bermuda. My dog Jeff >>urinating will not kill bermuda. Setting it on fire _might_ kill bermuda >>but I have my doubts. Scraping the top 8" of soil off and sifting out every >>piece of rhhizome slows bermuda down a little. >>Stefani who is nearly distracted by the stuff. adamf@hopper.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) writes: >Dear Stefani, >I empathize - Bermuda grass can keep one awake at night. >Try calling a friend of mine who is a bermuda eradication expert. >Her name is Ellen Polishuk Phone # 703-759-2119. >Ellen is a certified Organic farmer in northern Virginia >with years of experience and practical information- >She works hard, so call before 9:00 pm, else she might be sleeping. Dear Adam, Could you perhaps call Ellen to ask about Bermuda eradication and post her comments? I'm sure she wouldn't appreciate calls from all of us who have the same question! Theresa, I agree that you probably don't have any chance of killing Bermuda grass with mulch, (especially if you live in Alabama where it grows well). I wouldn't even bother to look for the mulching "plate", nor consider buying a mulching mower. Just leave the grass clippings on the lawn when you cut, instead of bagging. If you point out that this will save time and effort, it may sound more convincing. You might suggest he try it a few times and evaluate the results. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer Tue May 18 23:45:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17139 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Is it a tree or a vine????? Date: 14 May 1993 15:38:30 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 26 Message-ID: <1t0edmINNn22@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1t0crq$4ea@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein2.u.washington.edu In article <1t0crq$4ea@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> mdt2@po.CWRU.Edu (Michael D. Thomas) writes: > >I have seen Chinese Wisteria as a vine and now I think I >have seen it in a tree form. Yesterday I saw some trees >with purple/blue wisteria type blooms hanging from them. >The trees were maybe 7 feet tall. What did I see?, they were >beautiful!!!!!! How would I obtain one and how would I care for it? >Thanks for any info. > >-Mike > Actually, it is the same plant, trained into a tree form. You could probably buy one but you could do it yourself much cheaper. In one of the recent issues of Fine Gardening, there was an article on just this subject - I believe it was January or March. Basically it involves staking the vine, pruning off side branches until where you want the branching to begin, and then choosing which side shoots you want to leave to harden into the branches of the tree. You do need to maintain this from year to year, because even though it is in tree form and the wood will hold its shape once it has hardened, it still is programmed to be a vine, and if you don't prune it every year you will bet a ball of vines on a stick. :) If you don't mind the effort, though they are beautiful. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!udel!gvls1!rmtc.paramax.com!garyp Tue May 18 23:45:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17140 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!udel!gvls1!rmtc.paramax.com!garyp From: garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/SWE/ISP]) Subject: Re: Berms and Soil Prep... Please advise. Message-ID: <1993May14.155108.18258@VFL.Paramax.COM> Sender: news@VFL.Paramax.COM (IEE news user) Nntp-Posting-Host: rmtcf4.rmtc.paramax.com Organization: Paramax Systems References: <1993May13.175951.5515@VFL.Paramax.COM> <1993May13.163637.13145@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 15:51:08 GMT Lines: 59 I knew I wouldn't get away with a quick and dirty explanation of the landscape plan :). As Kay, and probably a lot of others, point out, there are several structural issues involved with grading. The Berms will reach maximum widths of approximately 18'. Average widths will run approximately 12'. Grades will be between .5 and 2.5 percent. The berms are not retained. The drainage pattern exterior to the site is not modified. Minor intra-site drainage modification will be counteracted by installation of a dry creek which will feed an Aspen grove. Irrigation to the berms is provided via a semi-permanent, manually operated, drip irrigation system. In article <1993May13.163637.13145@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: |> In article <1993May13.175951.5515@VFL.Paramax.COM>, garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/SWE/ISP]) writes: |> > |> > My backyard, heavy clay soil, is flat from house to fence. |> > |> > To get some height interest in our landscape, we are going |> > to build a berm which follows the fence around all three |> > sides of the backyard. The berm maximum height will be |> > about 36" and the average height will be 16". Total added |> > soil will be about 30 yards. |> |> How wide will these berms be? You indicate you want trees, which will |> need a fair amount of width... |> This is kind of confusing. Trees need width above and below the ground. Tree spacing will, of course, consider growth habit. But I don't understand why the size of the berm would have anything to do with how wide the tree is/will be? |> Is the fence going to backstop the berms? Can it take the stress? What |> happens when the fence rots from contact with the soil, and your hills |> slide into the neighbor's yard? But you've thought of all that, I'm |> sure. |> As above, the berms are not retained and all other engineering details have been considered. The compaction factor has been established for clay soil with a 50% amendment of compost. If we go with a different type of berm material (e.g. top soil, planting mix, etc.) then we will need to adjust the compaction factor as appropriate. Generally, less clay means more compaction. More compaction translates into more soil trucked to the site ($) and more labor in unloading it and tamping it. But the cost is a minor consideration for this project. The main concern is making sure the trees take root into natural soils on the site. |> Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI Thanks. Gary P. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!acheng Tue May 18 23:45:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17141 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!acheng From: acheng@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Albert Cheng) Subject: Re: Mulching Blades ??? Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 15:59:02 GMT Message-ID: Distribution: usa References: <1sueamINN5e0@lynx.unm.edu> Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Originator: acheng@shalom.ncsa.uiuc.edu Organization: Nat'l Ctr for Supercomp App (NCSA) @ University of Illinois Lines: 13 In article <1sueamINN5e0@lynx.unm.edu>, bcampos@spock.unm.edu (Benny Campos) writes: >I've seen a few posts on Mulching -vs- Bagging the last few weeks, the >question I have for the net is this. Does anyone have any experence with >buying just the mulching blades I've seen at Sears and putting them on >a regular lawnmower (my bag catcher has a door that closes). Cost >is around $35 for the blade. Mulching mower has a taller dome that supposedly allows the clipping to be chopped a few times more, thus finer. Also, you need an insert at the door hole to make the inside hull round. $35 seems a bit high. I think I have seen mulcher conversion kits for $25 at other department stores like Venture. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!pipex!bnr.co.uk!corpgate!brtph560!bnr.ca!laurad Tue May 18 23:45:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17142 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!pipex!bnr.co.uk!corpgate!brtph560!bnr.ca!laurad From: laurad@bnr.ca (Laura Dreisbach) Subject: HELP -- wild violets are taking over my lawn Message-ID: <1993May14.152930.1027@brtph560.bnr.ca> Sender: news@brtph560.bnr.ca (Usenet News) Reply-To: laurad@bnr.ca Organization: Bell-Northern Research Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 15:29:30 GMT Lines: 16 Help!! Wild violets have taken over my lawn and one of my gardens. Back in Feb. I dug up my garden in preparation for planting spring flowers. There were all these clumpy, knotty growths which I dug up. I thought they were weeds and I thought I got them all out. Well, several months later, I discovered that they were wild violets. They have taken over the garden and have spread into the lawn. They are quite thick in the lawn and I am scared they will overpower the grass. Does anyone know what I can do to get rid of this? I don't mind digging up my garden, but I hope not to have to dig up my lawn. Will weed-n-feed be strong enough for the lawn? If anyone has had successful experience getting rid of this, please help. Thanks, Laura Dreisbach From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!kuhub.cc.ukans.edu!oread.cc.ukans.edu!mgaro Tue May 18 23:45:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17143 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!kuhub.cc.ukans.edu!oread.cc.ukans.edu!mgaro Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Tomato blooming already...hmmm Message-ID: <1993May14.110745.1@oread.cc.ukans.edu> From: mgaro@oread.cc.ukans.edu Date: 14 May 93 11:07:45 CST Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Serces Summary: Should I remove them? Nntp-Posting-Host: oread.cc.ukans.edu Lines: 12 I have never had this problem before, nor have I seen it recently in this group. I planted tomatoes about three weeks ago, and one was larger than the rest. It is now about 12-14" tall, and I noticed that it has blooms on it already! I expected it to get _much_ larger before blooming ( as usually happens). Will the blooming now keep the plant from growing normally? Should I pinch off the blooms, or let it be? Any advice would be welcome. Oh, yeah, I live near Kansas City, whatever zone that might be, and we have had _lots_ of rain lately. -- Michael Garoutte Internet: mgaro@oread.cc.ukans.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail Tue May 18 23:45:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17144 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re:Leatherjackets(Marsh Crane Fly) Date: 14 May 1993 11:15:35 -0500 Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway Lines: 38 Sender: daemon@cs.utexas.edu Message-ID: <9305141615.AA14830@im4> NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu In article: , snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) replies: >In article <24189@mindlink.bc.ca> Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >>From the early rumours that I am hearing it looks like this might be a bad >>year here for Marsh Crane Fly, also known as Leatherjackets. I don't know >>much about them and the only control method for bad infestions that I have >>read about features Diazinon. >>Can anyone tell me more about this insect? Are there are any environmentally >>friendly controls if they start to be a real problem? >>Thanks in advance for your help. >>-Moira Carlson >> > >Do crane flies when they are young live in water like mosquito larva? If ------Several methods for controlling crane files deleted--------------- >Hope these ideas help. > >JOhn >snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu I am presuming these crane flies/leatherjackets are a whole other insect than what we call crane flies in the Eastern US. Ours look like huge mosquitoes with long dangly legs. They don't bite animals and their larvae, which do indeed live in water, eat mosquito larvae. This kind of crane fly SHOULD BE PROTECTED. As with common names of plants vs latin names, so in the insect (and bird and animal) worlds we must be very careful to identify WHICH critter we are talking about. --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | Miller Microcomputer Services | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 17 N, 71 21 W, Earth, Sol | From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail Tue May 18 23:45:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17145 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re:Latin names (our favorites) Date: 14 May 1993 11:16:27 -0500 Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway Lines: 25 Sender: daemon@cs.utexas.edu Message-ID: <9305141616.AA14836@im4> NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu In articlt <1993May13.125859.5239@newsgate.sps.mot.com> Jerry Young tickled my risibles with his favorite latin names. My favorites are: Liriodendron Tulipifera - tulip tree - (leery-o-DEN-dron tu-li-PIF-er-a) sounds like it would make a nice name for a girl. Polystichum acrostichoides - Christmas fern - (puh-LIS-ti-kum a-cross-ti-COID-eez) - theres that -oides- again and doesn't that name just roll off the tongue? Smilax - greenbriar - (SMILE-axe) - nasty green stemmed, thorny vine that sits there smiling ready to axe you. Mitakuye oyasin (all creatures are related) --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | Miller Microcomputer Services | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 17 N, 71 21 W, Earth, Sol | From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker Tue May 18 23:45:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17146 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker From: fzbaker@dale.ucdavis.edu (Sharon D. Baker) Subject: Re: outrageously fragrant roses... Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Administrator) Organization: University of California, Davis X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3 References: Distribution: na Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 16:32:04 GMT Lines: 29 It seems to me that the possibilities are: Chrysler Imperial: Large, shapely buds open into big, dark crimson flowers (rich crimson with darker shadings--later fading to magenta) and a velvety texture. Buds are spiraled and are borne singly . Double, 4-1/2 to 5 inches with 40 to 50 petals. Long, straight stem. Strong fragrance--rich and spicy; Medium height plant and bush. Dull, dark green foliage. Introduced 1952. Crimson Glory: Lovely, pointed buds open to become urn-shaped, vivid crimson blooms, becoming purplish with age. Spiraled buds open to slightly cupped flowers. Petals have velvety texture and dark highlight. Large, double (3-1/2 to 4-1/2 inches) with 30 to 35 petals. Flowers are borne singly and nod on slender stems. Rich old-rose fragrance (strong, intense, old-time damask aroma). Low, bush and sprawling. Dark green, glossy leaves. Introduced 1935. Mister Lincoln: Love long, pointed buds open into large, glowing red blooms. Unfading red with velvety petal texture. Double, 4-1/2 to 6 inches with 30 to 40 petals. Long stems. Large, dark green, glossy, leathery foliage. Strong, rich fragrance. Introduced 1964. Oklahoma: Deep red buds open into huge, deep red blooms. (Its color comes the closest of any rose to being black.) Double, 6 inches with 45 to 50 petals. Usually borne one to a long stem. Strong, intoxicating musk rose scent. Dark green, leathery leaves. Introduced 1964. -- Sharon D. Baker sdbaker@ucdavis.edu (916) 752-9946 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ennews!mcdphx!hlm Tue May 18 23:45:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17147 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ennews!mcdphx!hlm From: hlm@phx.mcd.mot.com (Heather Magill) Subject: Re: Peonies and Ants Message-ID: <1993May14.160920.2238@phx.mcd.mot.com> Sender: news@phx.mcd.mot.com Nntp-Posting-Host: cretan.phx.mcd.mot.com Organization: Motorola Computer Group, Tempe, Az. References: <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com> <1993May13.130811.13139@iscsvax.uni.edu> Distribution: na Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 16:09:20 GMT Lines: 25 In article <1993May13.130811.13139@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >In article <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com>, dave@maven.b29.ingr.com (Dave Bradford) writes: >> Why are ants (usually big black ones) always on my peonies? They seem >> to start accumulating there when the flower buds swell up. I have looked >> for aphids and I can't see any evidence of them. Are the ants after some >> nectar? I have no noticable damage to the blooms or plant. > >The ants are after the wax that coats the buds. If the wax isn't removed >by the ants, the buds can't open. Years ago, I found that I could >dry-store peony buds* in the refrigerator in a tupperware container lined >with paper towels. You can remove the buds from refrigeration and >recut the stems, place them in warmish water, and they'll open. But only >if you pick off the sepals, since there aren't ants around to deal with >the wax. > >Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI What kind of ants are necessary (Black ants covers a lot :-)? Thanks, Heather. -- hlm@phx.mcd.mot.com -- hlm@phx.mcd.mot.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!portal!cup.portal.com!hassan Tue May 18 23:45:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17148 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!portal!cup.portal.com!hassan From: hassan@cup.portal.com (hassan monu alam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Jabanero Pepper Plants Message-ID: <81364@cup.portal.com> Date: Fri, 14 May 93 06:16:27 PDT Organization: The Portal System (TM) Lines: 4 Does anyone know where I can get Jabanero Pepper plants in the SF Bay area? Hassan From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!kzoo!jprice Tue May 18 23:45:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17149 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!kzoo!jprice From: jprice@hobbes.kzoo.edu (Janet Price) Subject: lilac problem Message-ID: <1993May14.171753.19066@hobbes.kzoo.edu> Organization: Kalamazoo College Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 17:17:53 GMT Lines: 18 One of my two small lilac bushes (growing next to each other) seems to be dying. It had a lot of flower buds that were beginning to open and then over a period of a couple of weeks, branch by branch the opening buds and leaves dried up. Two branches remain with lilac blooms and leaves that are doing fine. I see no sign of bugs. The dead branches aren't all on one side. I could understand it if they died over winter, but am puzzled at their dying just as they are budding and leafing out. Does anyone have a clue about what's wrong? I also have a suggestion for those of you who compost your leaves. I pile mine in a long row across the back of my yard where it's mostly shady and plant impatiens directly in the leaves. I've been doing this for several years now and it works very well. Much easier than planting in dirt and I'm now able to dig good rich stuff out from the bottom of the pile. -- Janet Price (jprice@kzoo.edu) From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!silver.ucs.indiana.edu!jereese Tue May 18 23:45:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17150 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!silver.ucs.indiana.edu!jereese From: jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (jean reese) Subject: Re: wild bamboo problem Message-ID: Sender: news@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: silver.ucs.indiana.edu Organization: Indiana University References: <1993May14.4198.12985@dosgate> Distribution: rec Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 17:24:24 GMT Lines: 45 In article <1993May14.4198.12985@dosgate> "david hall" writes: > My neighbor has some wild bamboo growing along my fence line. >The roots have spread and I now have bamboo shoots sprouting up in my >back yard. > Is there any way to kill this plant? No. Or to stop it from spreading? No. Not to be too pessimistic, but not really. You're helped by the fact that you live in Canada, so it won't grow as fast. You'll just need to keep mowing your yard regularly, and you probably won't be able to plant anything in that area. Bamboo is remarkable in its staying power. Check with the local ordinances and see if there's anything about growing bamboo: maybe you can call the city on your neighbor. Or you can plant kudzu on his bamboo ... Jean > >Entered by David Hall, on Fri 05-14-93 at 11:03 > >------------------------------------------------------------------- >snail -> Hamilton, Ontario, Canada email -> david.hall@canrem.com >------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > * 1st 1.10b #1113 * 1st does more by 9:00am than other readers do all day >-- >Canada Remote Systems - Toronto, Ontario >416-629-7000/629-7044 -- Gonzo! Get your chickens out of my dressing room!! - Kermit jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!acheng Tue May 18 23:45:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17151 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!acheng From: acheng@ncsa.uiuc.edu (Albert Cheng) Subject: Re: potato bugs Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 17:39:07 GMT Message-ID: References: <1993May13.223027.4107@tc.fluke.COM> Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Keywords: bugs Originator: acheng@shalom.ncsa.uiuc.edu Organization: Nat'l Ctr for Supercomp App (NCSA) @ University of Illinois Lines: 11 In article , snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) writes: >I think that what you are talking about are called pill bugs or sow bugs. >Do they look like an armadillo's back in minature? I think that they only eat >rotting stuff. Colorado potato beeteles are something else entirely. I have them inside my house but only the subgrade level. It seems like they prefer moist area. But then they shredded their "skins" in a corner and crawl up the walls. I hate anything that have more than four legs--make my hair stand. Are they harmful to human or plants or the home structure? Any safe way to tell them to stay out? From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pcl!roger Tue May 18 23:45:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17152 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pcl!roger From: roger@westminster.ac.uk (Roger Carsley) Subject: Pot Vines Message-ID: <1993May14.163738.8488@westminster.ac.uk> Organization: University of Westminster X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 16:37:38 GMT Lines: 18 This is a response to a request for a reference for pot-grown grapes. "Grapes gone to pot" by Ray White The Garden, Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society Volume 117 Part 9 Pages 420-421 September 1992 This briefly describes work at the Society's Garden, Wisley in adapting Victorian ideas, some of which were described under the title "Pot Vines for Table Decoration" in Vines and Vine Culture by Archibald Barron, 1883. The techniques can produce vines with from one to six bunches. Two of the three techniques are forms of layering, the other involves an overwintered cutting. Wisley put on an impressive display of their work at the RHS Great Autumn Show, London in September and there is a photograph of this in the December issue of The Garden. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal Tue May 18 23:45:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17153 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal From: moskal@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Tera Moskal) Subject: Red things on Cherry leaves?? Message-ID: Summary: Are red spots on cherry tree leaves normal? Keywords: Cherry, pests Sender: usenet@news.acns.nwu.edu (Usenet on news.acns) Nntp-Posting-Host: unseen3.acns.nwu.edu Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA Distribution: usa Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 17:45:13 GMT Lines: 13 I recently planted the root stock of a extra-dwarf bing cherry tree. It started sprouting leaves very nicely. However, now that some of the leaves are fully formed, I've noticed that they have two or three little bright red lumps of something on the stem of the leaf (at the place where it joins the branch). The lumps don't move like bugs, but they look sticky. At first it was only a couple of leaves. Now, it's almost all of the fully formed ones. Also, I've noticed a few thin spider type of webs between leaves (that I know is something). Are the red lumps (about the size of the head of a pin) something to worry about, or am I just a plant hypochondriac? If it is something, can someone tell me how to get rid of them? I have no problems with chemical methods. Tera Moskal moskal@ccadmin.tech.nwu.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!hamblin.math.byu.edu!yvax.byu.edu!cunyvm!rmccu Tue May 18 23:45:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17154 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!hamblin.math.byu.edu!yvax.byu.edu!cunyvm!rmccu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: carpenter ants Message-ID: <93134.133752RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> From: Robert Chambers Date: Friday, 14 May 1993 13:37:52 EDT References: <1993May11.160238.7538@bradley.bradley.edu> Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems Lines: 17 In article <1993May11.160238.7538@bradley.bradley.edu>, larry@bradley.bradley.edu (L. D. Stratton) says: > Any organic methods for discouraging carpenter ants? Do > marigolds have any effect? Find out what they are being attracted to and remove it. Since carpenter ants tend to go for soft/spongy wood you might want to remove that anyway I had a lot of carpenter ants trooping up my cherry tree for some reason, I climbed up to see if I could find anything damaged up there but couldn't. I put a coat of tanglefoot on the trunk of the tree and the ants got bored and went away. > ld Robert From samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!chip.cba.ufl.edu!NSX Tue May 18 23:46:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17155 of rec.gardens Xref: samba misc.consumers.house:33379 rec.gardens:17155 Path: samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!chip.cba.ufl.edu!NSX From: NSX@chip.cba.ufl.edu (Mark Sterling) Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mulching mowers summary Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 18:14:34 GMT Organization: College of Business, University of Florida Lines: 34 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: kopes.cba.ufl.edu > At first I was going to get the Deere because I figured it was all > American. But someone told me that Deere is foreigned owned and > assembled now. > >Boy, that's bad news. Everyone knows that only Amurrcans know how to >make good machines. But you can't let down your guard! Honda mowers >are made in the US, but their factory manager is apparently (gasp) >Asian! Are you sure that Toro's management isn't Jewish--I understand >the bull is actually a symbol of secret sacrificial rites! Maybe >Troy-Bilt hires non-citizens to work in its factories? I hear the >president of Lawn-Boy speaks fluent German; do you think you can trust >him? Did you know that Sears is at least 10% foreign-owned? Well, well, well. We're quite the comedian aren't we? Just for your information, I already own two Honda Civics. Would I buy another one today? Not sure. I've noticed recently that the a dollar doesn't buy 156 Yen like it used to; now it only buys 110. In case you haven't noticed we're in a recession. And as long as we're in it, I'm concerned about where my American dollar goes. I want it to go to an American manufacturer who's hiring American workers. That's why I wanted to know about the Deere. If it is foreigned owned and assembled, I'll go with the Honda because American workers put it together. There seems to be no other difference between the two. Both mowers are that close. So take your political correctness and shove it. Mark Sterling NSX@chip.cba.ufl.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet Tue May 18 23:46:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17156 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet From: farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: This begonia survived ZONE 7!! Date: 14 May 93 18:21:27 GMT Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville Lines: 29 Message-ID: References: <1993May10.100536.11175@walter.cray.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: utkcs2.cs.utk.edu In article <1993May10.100536.11175@walter.cray.com> gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: > > Last July I bought a 4 pack flat of little fiberous rooted begonias; > the kind that are used so much for bedding everywhere. They filled in > the little hole in my annual border and when winter came, the expected > happened. They froze and that was that. > > Has anyone else in zones 7 or 8 ever had a fiberous rooted begonia survive > a winter outdoors. ? > Well, actually yes. We're in Zone 6. Winter before last, I had about 4 survive. They were up close to the house and the winter wasn't *that* bad and so i rationalized that it was the warmth from the brick that kept them from freezing. This winter, which was colder, all 18 or so in two separate beds survived! To say I was flabergasted is one of the great understatements of all times. (we call them 'wax-leaved begonias' here some are bronze-leaved and some are green-leaved. They have color names like: 'vodka', 'whiskey', and 'gin' (but I never did see a 'tonic.' oh, well)). I was later told that there is a new hardy begonia on the market, so maybe that's the answer. Susan -- Susan B. Farmer farmer@cs.utk.edu Lady Jerusha Kilgore I can't even find time to clean house and you want me to come up with a .sig? And now she wants to go back to grad school after 14 years ..... We'll let her out when the delusion passes. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!smsc.sony.com!hanna Tue May 18 23:46:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17157 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!smsc.sony.com!hanna From: hanna@smsc.sony.com (Nancy Hannaford X-xxx) Subject: Re: wild bamboo & other nonrelated story Message-ID: Sender: hanna@smsc (Nancy Hannaford X-xxx) Organization: Sony Microsystems, San Jose, CA References: <1993May14.4198.12985@dosgate> Distribution: rec Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 18:37:07 GMT Lines: 29 In article <1993May14.4198.12985@dosgate>, "david hall" writes: |> My neighbor has some wild bamboo growing along my fence line. |> The roots have spread and I now have bamboo shoots sprouting up in my |> back yard. |> Is there any way to kill this plant? Or to stop it from |> spreading? |..... sorry, no solution, just another nightmare story. a woman out here, some time ago, won a suit against her neighbor to have her garage replaced because his bamboo "hedge" eventually crept beneath her garage and driveway concrete, lifting it significantly enough to tweak and crack the walls and floor. Baby bamboos came up in every crack. kinda like the Curse of the Giant Bermuda Grass...... on a, like totally, unrelated note. We were running telephone and speaker wires under the house last year and found this mysterious "coax" cable meandering the length of the house (about 100' worth). We thought fershure the CIA had found us :-), since we've lived there 8 years and hadn't seen it before (admittedly we don't hang out down there much, what w/the black widders'n'all). Turns out it was an air root from the neighbor's BIG elephant philodendron in his back yard. we're now waiting for a plant to surface on the OTHER side of our house. Good Luck...Hope you're in good with your neighbor. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!silver.cs.umanitoba.ca!ostrand Tue May 18 23:46:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17158 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!silver.cs.umanitoba.ca!ostrand From: ostrand@silver.cs.umanitoba.ca (Andrew Ostrander) Subject: Re: Peonies and Ants Message-ID: Sender: news@ccu.umanitoba.ca Nntp-Posting-Host: silver.cs.umanitoba.ca Organization: Computer Science, University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada References: <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com> <1993May13.130811.13139@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May14.160920.2238@phx.mcd.mot.com> Distribution: na Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 18:31:08 GMT Lines: 12 In article <1993May13.130811.13139@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >The ants are after the wax that coats the buds. If the wax isn't removed >by the ants, the buds can't open. lines deleted >Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI As audacious as it may be to differ with Kay Klier, I want to report that the previous writer of the gardening column in the local newspaper used to say that the idea that peony buds need ants in order to open, is just a myth. It seems to me that the small number of puny red ants that used to crawl on my parents peonies would have been insignificant to such a relatively large thing as a peony bud. From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!news.dell.com!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland Tue May 18 23:46:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17159 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!news.dell.com!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland From: breland@mcc.com (Mark A. Breland) Subject: Re: Tomato blooming already...hmmm Message-ID: Sender: news@mcc.com Reply-To: breland@mcc.com Organization: MCC References: <1993May14.110745.1@oread.cc.ukans.edu> Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 17:42:24 GMT Lines: 24 In article 1@oread.cc.ukans.edu, mgaro@oread.cc.ukans.edu () writes: >I have never had this problem before, nor have I seen it recently in this >group. I planted tomatoes about three weeks ago, and one was larger than >the rest. It is now about 12-14" tall, and I noticed that it has blooms >on it already! I expected it to get _much_ larger before blooming ( as >usually happens). Will the blooming now keep the plant from growing >normally? Should I pinch off the blooms, or let it be? Any advice would >be welcome. Oh, yeah, I live near Kansas City, whatever zone that might >be, and we have had _lots_ of rain lately. Even with our late (March 28) freeze, the tomatoes I planted March 4 (that survived the freeze) started blooming the first week of April at about the same height as yours are now. Leave them be! All is well! Treat them right and they will continue to bloom and set fruit for their entire season. The fruit which set off my first blooms are now 5" in diameter and just starting to turn pink. The tomato plant is still kicking out blooms and setting fruit like crazy as well... --- Mark A. Breland - Microelectronics and Computer Technology Corporation (MCC) Ada Fault Tolerance | voice: (512) 338-3509 3500 West Balcones Center Drive | FAX: (512) 338-3900 Austin, Texas 78759-6509 USA | internet: breland@mcc.com From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!caen!cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu!347kjsm Tue May 18 23:46:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17160 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!caen!cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu!347kjsm Organization: Central Michigan University Date: Wednesday, 12 May 1993 14:38:58 EDT From: <347KJSM@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU> Message-ID: <93132.143859347KJSM@CMUVM.CSV.CMICH.EDU> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Perplexing tulip question Lines: 6 Two years ago I dug all of my tulip bulbs up and threw them all together in a tray and re-planted them in different spots. Of course last year they didn't do to well, but were beautiful this year. The strange thing is that they came up in groups of the same color. Why? I have several different colors and varieties. Please enlighten me! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!infonode!kdblake@b24a.b24a.ingr.com Tue May 18 23:46:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17161 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!infonode!kdblake@b24a.b24a.ingr.com From: kdblake@katb.b24a.ingr.com (Katherine D. Blake) Subject: Re: Trees and Grass and many questions Message-ID: <1993May14.193834.16716@infonode.ingr.com> Sender: usenet@infonode.ingr.com (Usenet Administrator) Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL. References: <1993May14.150157.8424@infonode.ingr.com> Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 19:38:34 GMT Lines: 32 In article <1993May14.150157.8424@infonode.ingr.com>, dianne@dianne.b24a.ingr.com (Dianne Ferrans) writes: |> Hello all |> |> (Location: North Alabama (Huntsville)/Tennessee valley area) |> |> 1. I have two large trees near the house, which my neighbor claims are |> tulip poplars. Both have large cavities in the base, in one tree They're definitely tulip poplars, Dianne. :-) |> it's about two feet high and about a foot deep, in the second it's |> about four feet high and about two feet deep. When I reach in, |> |> How do I know if they're "unstable" due to the damage? The branches It would be helpful to know how deep the holes are compared to the diameter of the trees for determining instability. |> are narrow, not wide-spread, but they appear to be alive (lots of She means they do not have a wide canopy. That seems to be the normal state for tulip poplars in this area (little stumpy arms), so I don't think that indicates a problem per se. (I've seen these trees and I'm only posting because I want to raz Dianne.) :-) |> |> 5. We have many very tall and very skinny pines on the lot. People |> claim these are weak wood. Do these things actually topple very often? No Dianne. They don't topple that often. Pines are softwood, not necessarily weak wooded. You'll hear the cr-e-a-k before it actually hits the house, anyway. :-) |> |> Answer whichever ones you can. Thanks! You're welcome. :-) |> Katherine Blake | kdblake@b24a.b24a.ingr.com PDS Development | Intergraph - Huntsville, AL | USA 205-730-8403 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae Tue May 18 23:46:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17162 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: Drainage Woes Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <1sr9r3INNcqs@news.u.washington.edu> Distribution: na Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 20:06:25 GMT Lines: 42 In article <1sr9r3INNcqs@news.u.washington.edu> lamantia@hardy.u.washington.edu (Stephen Lamantia) writes: > >I want to plant grass in the back yard (to make it a useable-by- >people-not-slugs yard) and use the lower 2 or 3 terraces for >growing vegetables. I realize I'll have to change the soil >structure, mixing in sand and organic material. My question is >about drainage. I figure I'll have to lay down some of that >corrugated drainage pipe beneath the yard and maybe beneath the >terrace levels that I want to plant on. (Don't worry, I'll get >much better informed beyond the "I guess I figure maybe I'll do >this..." stage before I undertake this project.) Okay, here's the part that seems counterintuitive until you think about it for a while: You don't put in the drains under the ground you want to drain, you put the drains uphill to keep the water from percolating downhill into the ground you want to be less wet! >Also, are there any good books explaining the ins/outs/ups/downs >of land drainage? I need to learn about: assessing the current >drainage situation, deciding what to do about it, types of >materials, techniques, etc. I'd appreciate something that goes >into a decent level of detail; my current slew of gardening and >homeowner books each has only a page or two on drainage, and >nothing more. (For all the meager detail they present, they might >as well say "Good Drainage: We're for it, and you should be, >too.") See if you can find some British gardening books. The Brits have very similar climate and soil to yours. Many of these books have a lot about installing drainage. A recent U.S. book "Step-by-Step Organic Gardening" by Shepherd Ogden has a chapter describing how the author installed drainage for a large garden on a wet slope in Vermont. Also, look through some agriculture books, especially old ones that aimed at the much smaller scale farms of the first half of this century. Your state agriculture department probably has some cheap or free literature on managing drainage problems as well. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!uunet!rational.com!pelton!rlk Tue May 18 23:46:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17163 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!uunet!rational.com!pelton!rlk From: rlk@pelton.Rational.COM (Robert Kitzberger) Subject: Soil for box garden? Message-ID: Sender: news@rational.com Organization: Rational Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 19:39:37 GMT Lines: 26 We've just moved into a house (Zone 4, I think...). There are two 5' x 8' x 1' boxed vegetable garden areas in the back yard (with gopher screen underneath, and surrounded by a fence). The problem is that the planters (is that the correct term?) have been neglected for several years, and the soil is quite depleted, though at one time it supposedly had a healthy organic compost / soil mixture. Questions: 1. What kind of soil mixture (top soil, compost, manure, etc.) should I use to top off the planters? It's about 6-9 inches below the top of the wood frame, so I'll probably need about 10-15 cubic feet per planter... but we only have a few cubic feet of compost from our backyard composter. 2. How high from the top of the wood frame should the soil be? 3. What are the best watering methods for this type of veggie garden? Thanks!!! .Bob. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Bob Kitzberger Internet: rlk@rational.com Rational, Grass Valley, CA CompuServe: 70743,1550 type Opinion is private; From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!rcm Tue May 18 23:46:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17164 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!rcm From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Jabanero Pepper Plants Date: 14 May 1993 20:24:31 GMT Organization: where? Lines: 22 Message-ID: <1t0v5vINNh16@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: <81364@cup.portal.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com hassan@cup.portal.com (hassan monu alam) writes: > Does anyone know where I can get Jabanero Pepper plants in the SF Bay > area? You might try Habanero's, instead! :-) If you can't find any plants locally, you can order seeds via mail from various seedsmen. Try: R.H. Shumway's Totally Tomatoes P.O. Box 1626 Augusta, GA 30903 1-803-663-0016 Habanero - 95 days - Capsicum chinense #1274 pkt $1.25 2 pkts. $2.00 1/32 oz. $3.50 1/8 oz. $10.85 Rick "no affiliation" Myers From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 Tue May 18 23:46:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17165 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 From: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) Subject: Re: HELP -- wild violets are taking over my lawn Message-ID: Sender: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: student.tc.umn.edu Organization: University of Minnesota References: <1993May14.152930.1027@brtph560.bnr.ca> Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 20:41:20 GMT Expires: Sat, 22 May 1993 05:00:00 GMT Lines: 17 In article <1993May14.152930.1027@brtph560.bnr.ca> laurad@bnr.ca writes: >Help!! Wild violets have taken over my lawn and one of my Is the lawn very shady? If so, its likely that the grasses are not as competitive as the violets under those conditions. Even if you spray, the reason the violets are there is not going to go away. The best thing is to do some overseeding with a shade tolerant grass mixture. I'm not sure where you are located, fine fescues would be a good bet, and maybe some shade tolerant Kentucky bluegrasses. Look at your local garden center for some such mixture. Also be careful with the watering if you are currently doing so. Personally I like a few wild violets in the lawn, but too many is not good for most cases. If I missed the mark on the shady area, let me know. Thanks PJ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal Tue May 18 23:46:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17166 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal From: moskal@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Tera Moskal) Subject: Re: Letting Cucumbers & pumpkins climb Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.acns.nwu.edu (Usenet on news.acns) Nntp-Posting-Host: unseen3.acns.nwu.edu Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA References: <1993May13.175950.22888@tellab5.tellabs.com> Distribution: usa Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 20:38:40 GMT Lines: 10 I read about a really great idea for growing melons and stuff vertically. This probably would work for small pumpkins too. You train the vine on a trellis of some sort. When the fruit (or pumpkins in your case) appears, you make a sling out of a piece of woman's panty hose to support the growing fruit. Attach the sling to the trellis. The cucumbers don't get heavy enough to need the support, but cantalopes, pumpkins, etc. would. It also keeps the stuff off of the ground, so crawling bug types don't get in them. I'm planning on trying the method this year, since I don't have alot of space. Tera Moskal moskal@ccadmin.tech.nwu.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user Tue May 18 23:46:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17167 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user From: karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) Subject: Re: Organic Fertilizers $$$ Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: NRL References: <1993May13.170711.16495@infonode.ingr.com> <1993May13.132931.13141@iscsvax.uni.edu> Distribution: na Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 20:44:20 GMT Lines: 41 In article , john0130@student.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) wrote: > > Yes, besure to get a soil test. I wish more people would do that for many > of our lawn and gardening situations. > > Just a bit to add: Chemical fertilizers are just fine to use, and do often > cost less. There are many kinds of slow release forms. The methylene ureas > are good, and so is IBDU, if it can be found. I would recommend looking > for the percentage of fast vs slow release on the bag. I think most do > give that info. This isnt the place for a dissertation on the many environmental/ecological reasons for using organic vs. synthetic fertilizers, so i'll spare you all :^>. I agree that the prepared organic fertilizers are overly expensive, but what about composing some on your own, from e.g., greensand, rock phosphate, and your nitrogen source of choice (blood meal, bat guano, fish emulsion, whatever)? There's a recipe and charts in Sq. Foot Gardening, i think, which gives sufficient info to create combinations which are alot cheaper than premixed. I bought 40lb bags of greensand and rock phosphate at a local garden shop (it took a few calls to find them, though), and they'll last me for years. As noted by others, these are slow-release rather than the quick-fix type of fertilizer (although i think even an organic nitrogen source will release more quickly than this geological stuff?). The N source is more problematical for me, as i dont like using dead-animal derivatives like blood meal and fish emulsion; however, IMHO it's easier to overdose on N than not, especially for fruiting plants (as opposed to leafy greens). This year i'm trying bat guano for N; it's 8-4-1 or something like that, so a little bit goes a long way. > > If you want to use an organic fertilizer, Milorganite might be cheaper, > and local brands may also be cheaper. Here in MN a Northrup King organic > is much less than the Ringer brands, as well as others. Um, i wouldnt use milorganite on edibles, it's made from sewage (human). OK for lawns and shrubs, though. > > PJ Judy Karpen "pushing back the frontiers of science" karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC USA From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user Tue May 18 23:46:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17168 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user From: karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) Subject: Re: Help needed with Asparagus Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: NRL References: <1993May14.065421.13158@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 20:49:11 GMT Lines: 25 In article <1993May14.065421.13158@iscsvax.uni.edu>, westendorf@iscsvax.uni.edu wrote: > > What are the benefits and disadvantages of using a regular variety of > asparagus instead of the new improved super male variety. Does asparagus > reproduce and produce more each year? Anyone have any input on this. > Help! > Mary As i understand it, the main difference is that the supermale variety doesnt waste its energy producing berries, so it has more to produce asparagus stalks. Since asparagus grows from crowns which spread slowly, i dont think you'll necessarily get new plants from them except by seed (someone please correct me if this is wrong). Definitely get the supermale kind; the berries are a royal pain, because if you dont pick them off they fall and sprout and you spend all spring and summer weeding out the little buggers. Just make sure it's REALLY a supermale, though; i got burned, because the breeders goofed the first year they produced commercial quantities so the suppliers sold alot of plants that were female. Supposedly they're also more vigorous than the old varieties, but the berries are obnoxious, believe me! Judy Karpen "pushing back the frontiers of science" karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC USA From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!lcatlett Tue May 18 23:46:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17169 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!lcatlett From: lcatlett@carson.u.washington.edu (Lynn Catlett) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Trees and Grass and many questions Date: 14 May 1993 21:02:39 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 27 Message-ID: <1t11dfINNt5u@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1993May14.150157.8424@infonode.ingr.com> <1993May14.193834.16716@infonode.ingr.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu >|> tulip poplars. Both have large cavities in the base, in one tree On the campus of the University of North Carolina crouches (or did last time I was home) an enormous, 60 foot stump with some snags of little branches near the top. A huuuuuuuuuuuuuuuge hollow in its base has (some time ago) been filled with ? concrete ? to keep the whole object stable. It's the Davie Poplar and is purported to be the very tree under which the +/- 1725 university site committee killed a jug and decided this was a "dam' fine plashe ta have a school..... " {no representation is made as to factual content of these remarks!!} So your poplars can last a good long while, even if not intact.... Might be a good idea to have an arborist have a look one day though, esp. if your trees are downwind from your house... :{ >|> 5. We have many very tall and very skinny pines on the lot. People >|> claim these are weak wood. Do these things actually topple very often? Hardly ever, unless they're damaged by insect, disease, or other trauma (fire, tornados,...) But (speaking of hearing a creak) you *can* hear their trunks stretch and bend in a breeze if you sit still near them and listen (good medicine for stress and distraction too). Just opinions Lynn Catlett lcatlett@u.washington.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Tue May 18 23:46:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17170 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: HELP -- wild violets are taking over my lawn Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <1993May14.152930.1027@brtph560.bnr.ca> Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 21:25:21 GMT Lines: 38 In article <1993May14.152930.1027@brtph560.bnr.ca> laurad@bnr.ca writes: >Help!! Wild violets have taken over my lawn and one of my >gardens. Back in Feb. I dug up my garden in preparation for >planting spring flowers. There were all these clumpy, knotty >growths which I dug up. I thought they were weeds and I thought >I got them all out. Well, several months later, I discovered that >they were wild violets. They have taken over the garden and have >spread into the lawn. They are quite thick in the lawn and I am >scared they will overpower the grass. Does anyone know what I can >do to get rid of this? I don't mind digging up my garden, but I >hope not to have to dig up my lawn. Will weed-n-feed be strong >enough for the lawn? If anyone has had successful experience >getting rid of this, please help. > >Thanks, > >Laura Dreisbach Well, I'm not sure this is what you want to hear, but I have wild violets in my front yard, and I think they're great. I love the color and variety that they add. I don't really notice the plants among the grass, just the purple flowers, and they and the grass seem to coexist happily. I wouldn't think of trying to kill them. My Dad in eastern PA had lots of them in his back yard, and I remember picking them to give to my mother when I was a wee tyke. My front yard was full of yellow dandelion and purple violet blooms last weekend, and I thought, "What a beautiful picture this yard makes. It's a shame to have to mow it." John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Tue May 18 23:46:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17171 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Control Ants Organically Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon References: <24237@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 21:13:10 GMT Lines: 22 In article bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org writes: >> bsingh@winton.Corp.Sun.COM asked: >> >> >Any suggestions on an organic way to control ants ? I keep spraying > >I've heard that mint plants will repel ants. When I find that >fire ants have built a nest in one of my raised beds, I will put >some spearmint or peppermint runners in the bed. Usually this >causes the ants to move elsewhere. Whether they hate the smell >of the mint, or the frequent watering that I give the newly >transplanted mint stolons, I don't know. > >I've read that citrus oils, such as orange oil, will kill ants >and fleas. Then again, the mint might be a worse pest than the ants. (8^)) John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psgrain!qiclab!arts!lily!palepink Tue May 18 23:46:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17172 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psgrain!qiclab!arts!lily!palepink From: palepink@lily.arts.com (Suzii Abe) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Apple Tree Questions (basic) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 12 May 93 14:39:07 PDT References: Lines: 15 bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) writes: > If you are able to buy > only one more tree for a pollinator, AVOID Gravenstein, Mutsu, and > Jonagold, Stayman and Winesap. Why? Is there a coherent agricultural reason? Or, if Gravenstein is my favorite base for pie, should I just assume you're prejudiced toward Red Delicious and ignore you? --Suzii. palepink@lily.arts.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ennews!anasaz!naomi Tue May 18 23:46:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17173 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ennews!anasaz!naomi From: naomi@anasazi.com (Naomi Walker) Subject: Re: Is it a tree or a vine????? Organization: Anasazi Inc Phx Az USA Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 16:37:04 GMT Message-ID: <1993May14.163704.20142@anasazi.com> References: <1t0crq$4ea@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Sender: usenet@anasazi.com (Usenet News) Lines: 13 Out here in Arizona, there are many Jacaranda trees. They have small green leaves, and this time of year, sprout gorgeous large purple hunks of flowers. -- Naomi Walker (aka N7FSA) naomi@anasazi.com Phoenix, Arizona To get the full value of joy, you must have someone to divide it with. ---Mark Twain From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Tue May 18 23:46:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17174 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Organic Fertilizers $$$ Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <1993May13.132931.13141@iscsvax.uni.edu> Distribution: na Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 22:36:36 GMT Lines: 30 In article karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) writes: >In article , john0130@student.tc.umn.edu >(Paul G Johnson-1) wrote: >> >> Yes, besure to get a soil test. I wish more people would do that for many >> of our lawn and gardening situations. >> >> Just a bit to add: Chemical fertilizers are just fine to use, and do often >> cost less. There are many kinds of slow release forms. The methylene ureas >> are good, and so is IBDU, if it can be found. I would recommend looking >> for the percentage of fast vs slow release on the bag. I think most do >> give that info. > >This isnt the place for a dissertation on the many environmental/ecological >reasons for using organic vs. synthetic fertilizers, so i'll spare you all [...some stuff deleted...] > >Um, i wouldnt use milorganite on edibles, it's made from sewage (human). OK >for lawns and shrubs, though. I believe that the main reason for not using Milorganite on edibles is not so much biological, as chemical. It is made from sewage sludge, and there is a certain amount of toxics (I believe it is heavy metals that is the problem) dumped into the sewers. John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!wotan.compaq.com!twisto.eng.hou.compaq.com!cpqhou!thomasr Tue May 18 23:46:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17175 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!wotan.compaq.com!twisto.eng.hou.compaq.com!cpqhou!thomasr From: thomasr@cpqhou.se.hou.compaq.com (G. Thomas Rush) Subject: Re: Control Ants Organically Organization: Compaq Computer Corp Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 15:53:39 GMT Message-ID: References: <24237@mindlink.bc.ca> Lines: 34 In article <24237@mindlink.bc.ca> Christine_Code@mindlink.bc.ca (Christine Code) writes: > >bsingh@winton.Corp.Sun.COM asked: > >>Any suggestions on an organic way to control ants ? I keep spraying > >and Andrew Ostrander replied: > >> For what it's worth, I have heard that cucumber peelings left on the >> ground will repel ants. > >I've heard the same thing about bay leaves. If either of these solutions >works, please let the rest of us know! I have used ground cinnamon. It seems to work. Here are the circumstances.... I live in the Houston, TX area. We've got fire ants here. Every month, a group of us go out to launch model rockest. Spreading some cinnamon around the back of the truck or van where I stand seems to keep the ants away. Around a house, I'd have to guess you'd need to renew pretty often. I have had great success controlling ants inside by mixing boric acid (a pretty benign chemical) with sugar and a bit of water to make a paste. The ants love it and are gone in a day or two. Then you've got to get the problem that brought them in cleared up. -- thomas rush compaq computer corporation thomasr@cpqhou.compaq.com their employee, not their opinions. MISD (Magnolia, Texas) School Board Seat 5 results: Alta Rickett (I): 650, 53.8%. Thomas Rush: 558, 46.2%. Thank you. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ucla-cs!ucla-ma!julia!ramirez Tue May 18 23:46:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17176 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ucla-cs!ucla-ma!julia!ramirez From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) Subject: inexpensive vine support Message-ID: <1993May14.214857.18632@math.ucla.edu> Sender: news@math.ucla.edu Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department Date: Fri, 14 May 93 21:48:57 GMT Lines: 18 On growing pumpkins vertically: > Do any of you folks have suggestions as to what would be a >good (sturdy, inexpensive, attractive) support for them? I took an old childrens' swing set, the kind that has two sort of "A-frame" supports on either side of a pole in the middle from which hang the seats, and I stretched chicken wire from one side of the supports to the other across the long top pole dividing the sides. I then trained winter squash up the stretched/supported chicken wire. It had a kind of funky charm once the greenry started growing up the wire. Also used it for tomatoes and snow peas, although not at the same time. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ucla-cs!ucla-ma!julia!ramirez Tue May 18 23:46:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17177 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ucla-cs!ucla-ma!julia!ramirez From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) Subject: bamboo Message-ID: <1993May14.215008.18703@math.ucla.edu> Sender: news@math.ucla.edu Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department Date: Fri, 14 May 93 21:50:08 GMT Lines: 42 >a woman out here, some time ago, won a suit against >her neighbor to have her garage replaced because >his bamboo "hedge" eventually crept beneath her >garage and driveway concrete, lifting it significantly >enough to tweak and crack the walls and floor. >Baby bamboos came up in every crack. >kinda like the Curse of the Giant Bermuda Grass...... Aren't they distantly related...bamboo and bermuda grass? Isn't Bamboo grass family? Stoloniferous, pestiferous, both of them. I suppose you might take up Chinese cooking and start looking upon your plethora of bamboo shoots as a resource. Find all the classic Chinese recipes using bamboo shoots. Create new ones. Do any creatures other than humans eat these things? If so, a pet (fill in animal name here). If so, someone will be able to recommend a genus/species. My next door neighbor, a rather arrogant gardener--arrogant because he thinks he knows everything there is to know about gardening--planted a bamboo hedge around an outdoor sitting area to give him privacy. He trenched everything and thought he had confined it behind a barrier but learned to his sorrow that he didn't know as much as he thought he did. He now has bamboo shooting up in his lawn. ....as long as I don't find bamboo shoots around my cherimoya or fig tree, I won't complain. >Turns out it was an air root from the neighbor's BIG elephant >philodendron in his back yard. we're now waiting for a plant >to surface on the OTHER side of our house. Isn't the split leaf philodendron the one that produces an edible fruit. I can't remember the genus name of what I am thinking about (Kay, help!!) but the species name is "monsterosa." From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ucla-cs!ucla-ma!julia!ramirez Tue May 18 23:46:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17178 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ucla-cs!ucla-ma!julia!ramirez From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) Subject: lilac question Message-ID: <1993May14.215112.18763@math.ucla.edu> Sender: news@math.ucla.edu Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department Date: Fri, 14 May 93 21:51:12 GMT Lines: 8 Is there such a thing as a lilac (Syringia) that grows in very low winter chill climates? I know about ceanothus, but I don't want one. I want a real lilac bush with the old fashioned purple flowers that smell to high heaven. Where I live, I can grow and fruit tropical guavas (psidium guajava) so it really has to tolerate a lo-chill lifestyle. Or should I just give up and move to minnesota? From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Tue May 18 23:46:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17179 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: This begonia survived ZONE 7!! Message-ID: <1993May14.175104.14321@walter.cray.com> Lines: 34 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993May10.100536.11175@walter.cray.com> Date: 14 May 93 17:51:03 CDT In article , farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: |> In article <1993May10.100536.11175@walter.cray.com> gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: |> > |> > Last July I bought a 4 pack flat of little fiberous rooted begonias; |> > the kind that are used so much for bedding everywhere. They filled in |> > the little hole in my annual border and when winter came, the expected |> > happened. They froze and that was that. |> > |> > Has anyone else in zones 7 or 8 ever had a fiberous rooted begonia survive |> > a winter outdoors. ? |> > |> |> Well, actually yes. We're in Zone 6. Winter before last, I had about 4 |> survive. They were up close to the house and the winter wasn't *that* |> bad and so i rationalized that it was the warmth from the brick that kept |> them from freezing. This winter, which was colder, all 18 or so in two |> separate beds survived! To say I was flabergasted is one of the great |> understatements of all times. (we call them 'wax-leaved begonias' here |> some are bronze-leaved and some are green-leaved. They have color names |> like: 'vodka', 'whiskey', and 'gin' (but I never did see a 'tonic.' |> oh, well)). I was later told that there is a new hardy begonia on the |> market, so maybe that's the answer. |> |> Susan |> |> -- |> Susan B. Farmer farmer@cs.utk.edu Lady Jerusha Kilgore |> I can't even find time to clean house and you want me to come up with a .sig? |> And now she wants to go back to grad school after 14 years ..... |> We'll let her out when the delusion passes. Mine also had the name whiskey something on the little tag. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uwm.edu!ogicse!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!sweiger Tue May 18 23:46:24 EDT 1993 Article: 17180 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uwm.edu!ogicse!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!sweiger From: sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! dying yew Message-ID: <1993May14.231440.27323@sequent.com> Date: 14 May 93 23:14:40 GMT Article-I.D.: sequent.1993May14.231440.27323 References: <14MAY199308305807@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> Sender: usenet@sequent.com (usenet ) Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc. Lines: 45 Nntp-Posting-Host: eng2.sequent.com In article <14MAY199308305807@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) writes: >I have 4 big yews in my front bed. One of them has turned brown over the >last month or two and is nearly dead.The shrubs are 4 ft. in diameter and >nearly touch each other. The other 3 yews have had new growth (though the >new growth has yellowed somewhat over the last week). > >I've gotten conflicting comments from the local extension service. The >first person I talked to suggested scale and told me to mail in a clipping. >I called back after I got the form, and talked to a different >horticulturist. He said to forget the clipping and said it was probably a >root problem - either root rot or the black boll weevil beetle (I may be >remembering the name wrong) which causes a lot of damage to Taxus and >rhodedendrons in Ohio. I dug shallow holes about 1-1/2 ft. out from the >centers of the sick shrub and the farthest away healthy one. The results were >identical: slightly damp, black clay with a few white roots @ 1/8" in >diameter showing. The only bugs were a pillbug-like critter with about 10 >legs and a small centipede-like critter. Red Spider mites might be the problem. Take out a white sheet of paper and shake some of the yellowing branches over the paper and you may see the red mites. If so, spray with Sevin, or something like that. You have to be quick about this, because the mites will kill evergreens very quickly, especially during spring growing season. > >I'm in Cleveland (Zone 6). We haven't had rain for about 10 days, but we're >3" above average for the year. The bed faces W-NW and the sick yew gets >slightly less sun than the others. The other bed residents (hostas, >pachysandra, & azaleas) are doing fine. The bed is mulched with fabric >covered by 1" of large bark chips. We had several heavy snows last winter, >but I knocked at least some of the snow off the yews within days in each case. > >Any suggestions of things to consider, look for etc., would be greatly >appreciated. Its OK if the one shrub doesn't recover, but I'd hate to lose >all four. >- Marty >--------------------------------------------------------------------------- >Marty Zimmerman | There are three types of lies; >cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov | lies, damn lies, and statistics > | - Mark Twain >--------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- phone: (503)578-4329 fax: (503)578-5730 internet: sweiger@sequent.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:46:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17181 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Berms and Soil Prep... Please advise. Message-ID: <1993May14.193818.13176@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 14 May 93 19:38:18 -0600 References: <1993May13.175951.5515@VFL.Paramax.COM> <1993May13.163637.13145@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May14.155108.18258@VFL.Paramax.COM> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 26 In article <1993May14.155108.18258@VFL.Paramax.COM>, garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/SWE/ISP]) writes: > In article <1993May13.163637.13145@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > |> How wide will these berms be? You indicate you want trees, which will > |> need a fair amount of width... > |> > > This is kind of confusing. Trees need width above and below > the ground. Tree spacing will, of course, consider growth > habit. But I don't understand why the size of the berm > would have anything to do with how wide the tree is/will be? I was thinking of the photos of trees I saw blown over when the Big Wind went through Kew, and the hundreds (?thousands?) of trees I've seen go over in tornados, sleet storms, etc. The bulk of the root mass is actually quite shallow but broadly spread in most temperate species. I've seen some homemade relandscaping that added berms about 5' high and 4' wide. Many of the trees toppled in a windstorm just because the canopy caught so much wind that it essentially pulled the roots right through the side of the berm. You, however, are thinking on a MUCH grander scale, and obviously have thought of the engineering problems.... I forgot to check your sig... Am I writing to Capability Brown's shade??? ;-) Kay Klier From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:46:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17182 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peonies and Ants Message-ID: <1993May14.200043.13177@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 14 May 93 20:00:43 -0600 References: <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com> <1993May13.130811.13139@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May14.160920.2238@phx.mcd.mot.com> Distribution: na Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 67 In article , ostrand@silver.cs.umanitoba.ca (Andrew Ostrander) writes: > In article <1993May13.130811.13139@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >>The ants are after the wax that coats the buds. If the wax isn't removed >>by the ants, the buds can't open. > lines deleted >>Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI > > As audacious as it may be to differ with Kay Klier, I want to report that ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ No, no! Be my guest. My office sign says "Question Authority" > the previous writer of the gardening column in the local newspaper used to > say that the idea that peony buds need ants in order to open, is just a > myth. It seems to me that the small number of puny red ants that used > to crawl on my parents peonies would have been insignificant to such > a relatively large thing as a peony bud. Well, I did a 30 quicky search when I was at the ISU library today (Andrew e-mailed me yesterday), and came up basically empty-handed. I browsed through 3 old volumes on peony culture, took a quick peek at Cyclopedia of Horticulture and the RHS Dictionary, rummaged through the American Peony Bulletin, and did an Agricola search back to 1970 without turning up anything significant. Then they closed the library for the evening :-( I heard the ants harvesting wax story from my entomology prof, but he was really a fly specialist. It's an interesting hypothesis from a couple of viewpoints: 1) the buds of dry-stored peonies do not open without a little help opening the calyx. 2) many ants harvest fats and waxes; one of the classic signs of an ant-dispersed seed is a fatty body called an 'eliasome'. I found several unsupported statements: 1) ants are after wax 2) ants are after nectar 3) ants aren't doing anything specific except dragging around Botrytis spores. I found it interesting that the 'ants aren't doing anything' advice was always after the invention of hard pesticides, and coupled with it was more advice to nuke the ants. So. Sounds like we need an experiment. Thought about it when I was driving back from Ames. Only problem is, I'm in the process of moving, so I'll have to borrow a peony plant to molest... If I can arm-twist a colleague into lending me a peony, I propose to ring several petioles with a sticky compound and a contact insecticide, and cover several more with fabric to exclude ants. Then we'll compare the fate of those buds to untreated ones. If our SEM were up, I could just compare the amounts of wax and cutin on ant-excluded buds and buds with ants. Maybe I'll just bung some of those buds into the freezer until the SEM gets fixed.... The other thing I'll try is to wash buds and see how much and what sort of sugars I can extract. Of course, this is all predicated on finding a peony. May have to wait till next year. If anyone else cares to experiment, or can propose a better design, lets try it! On the other hand, maybe all we need is a more thorough digging trip at the library ;-) Kay From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Tue May 18 23:46:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17183 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: bamboo Message-ID: <1993May14.200725.13178@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 14 May 93 20:07:25 -0600 References: <1993May14.215008.18703@math.ucla.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 17 In article <1993May14.215008.18703@math.ucla.edu>, ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: > Aren't they distantly related...bamboo and bermuda grass? > Isn't Bamboo grass family? Stoloniferous, pestiferous, > both of them. Same family, but _very distantly_ related within the family. Shirttail relations at best. But yes, similar structurally. > Isn't the split leaf philodendron the one that produces > an edible fruit. I can't remember the genus name of what > I am thinking about (Kay, help!!) but the species name > is "monsterosa." Monstera deliciosa. "Delicious monster". Nice flavor, but lousy little glochids that stick in your tongue. I'm gonna have to find out a better way of eating it.... ;-) Kay From samba!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf Tue May 18 23:46:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17184 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf From: adamf@hopper.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re:Bermuda Grass Eradication Message-ID: Followup-To: Mulching Bermuda Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: ITC/UVA Community Access UNIX/Internet Project References: Date: Sat, 15 May 1993 00:55:33 GMT Lines: 6 I will talk with the Bermuda expert and post her eradication techniques as soon as I can. I never realized how many bermuda fans there were out there. - Good point. Adam adamf@virginia.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!canterbury.ac.nz!equinox.gen.nz!equinox!gerty.equinox.gen.nz!chris Tue May 18 23:46:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17185 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!canterbury.ac.nz!equinox.gen.nz!equinox!gerty.equinox.gen.nz!chris Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Slugs Message-ID: <1993May14.114247.1821@gerty.equinox.gen.nz> From: chris@gerty.equinox.gen.nz (Christopher Sawtell) Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 11:42:47 GMT References: <1993May7.171938.27554@pbs.org> Organization: C. Sawtell - Just the one of us - X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] Lines: 18 Cool Bean (mpax@pbs.org) wrote: : winter. In one of the gardening books I read, it says to stick a : piece of copper in the ground around each plant to keep the slugs off. Our method of getting rid of slugs is to put out a saucer of old beer underneath an upturned bowl, ( to keep rain out ) which is supported a few millimetres above the soil. Make sure the saucer rim is slightly lower than the soil. They can't slide into the grog otherwise. What a way to go! -- +-------------------------------------+ | NAME Christopher Sawtell | | EMAIL chris@gerty.equinox.gen.nz | | PHONE +64-3-389-3200 | +-------------------------------------+ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!canterbury.ac.nz!equinox.gen.nz!equinox!gerty.equinox.gen.nz!chris Tue May 18 23:46:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17186 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!canterbury.ac.nz!equinox.gen.nz!equinox!gerty.equinox.gen.nz!chris Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: garlic Message-ID: <1993May15.021712.471@gerty.equinox.gen.nz> From: chris@gerty.equinox.gen.nz (Christopher Sawtell) Date: Sat, 15 May 1993 02:17:12 GMT References: <1sm1t4$q40@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Organization: C. Sawtell - Just the one of us - X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] Lines: 42 CATfish (davidr@flotsam.ee.pdx.edu) wrote: : Can somebody enlighten me on the tricks to growing garlic? : : 1) how deep do you plant the bulbs? Just under the surface. Pointed end up!!! : 2) Does garlic grow on the surface like onions do, or does it : remain submerged? Half / half. : : 3) How much water do they require? Not too much, but enough. : : 4) Sunlight conditions? Don't over do it. : 5) Do you plant in the spring or fall? Or later on in the winter. ^^^^ possibly very, very early spring. Light frost doesn't hurt. : 6) How much space is required? 9" between plants 12" - 18" between rows. : 7) Feeding?? Rotted compost in light loamey soil. Not too much of the mulch. : let 5 of the plants remain in the ground through the winter. The : plants now look like vigorous young corn stalks (2 feet tall). : However, I'm already beginning to see yellowing on some of the : lower leaves. Any hints?? Don't worry they do that. Harvest middle July or later. Most green leaves will have died back. I made the mistake of harvesting too early. 8) Good for health? Definately! 9) Companion plant for roses? ditto! Keeps Aphids away. -- +-------------------------------------+ | NAME Christopher Sawtell | | EMAIL chris@gerty.equinox.gen.nz | Greetings from New Zealnd. | PHONE +64-3-389-3200 | +-------------------------------------+ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!canterbury.ac.nz!equinox.gen.nz!equinox!gerty.equinox.gen.nz!chris Tue May 18 23:46:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17187 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!canterbury.ac.nz!equinox.gen.nz!equinox!gerty.equinox.gen.nz!chris Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Ants on plum trees Message-ID: <1993May15.022535.532@gerty.equinox.gen.nz> From: chris@gerty.equinox.gen.nz (Christopher Sawtell) Date: Sat, 15 May 1993 02:25:35 GMT References: <1993May11.145817.8427@rchland.ibm.com> Organization: C. Sawtell - Just the one of us - X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] Lines: 11 You have put a band of stickey paper round the tree's trunk havn't you? The first invaders get caught, the second lot stay away after seeing their dead mates. Works well on apple trees too. -- +-------------------------------------+ | NAME Christopher Sawtell | | EMAIL chris@gerty.equinox.gen.nz | | PHONE +64-3-389-3200 | +-------------------------------------+ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!nigel.msen.com!fmsrl7!destroyer!gumby!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Tue May 18 23:46:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17188 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!nigel.msen.com!fmsrl7!destroyer!gumby!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re:Pine Cone Question Message-ID: <1993May12.140631.28312@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Distribution: na Date: Wed, 12 May 1993 14:06:31 GMT Lines: 45 In article: , yozzo@watson.ibm.com (Ralph Yozzo) asks: > Where are (is) the seeds (seed) in a pine cone? > > Is the entire cone one seed or many seeds? > > If you find a pine cone on the ground and the scales > are open does this mean that all the seeds are gone? > > -- > Ralph Yozzo (yozzo@watson.ibm.com) > From the beautiful and historic New York State Mid-Hudson Valley. As no-one else has answered, I'll give it a try. The seeds in a pine cone sit on top of the scales. There is one seed per scale. The native pines in your area () are white pines and pitch pines. The latter are in pine-barrens areas and on Long Island. Pitch pines have very tight cones that only open and spill their seeds after they have been subjected to intense heat, hense pitch pines are found in areas which experience frequest forest fires (and they burn easily so cause fires, a self-perpetuating cycle). White pines, on the other hand, often open their scales while still attached to the tree. The scales sort of sit there until a squirrel cuts off the cone and eats most of them (but drops a few) or a big wind blows them out. These seeds are quite small and most people would not notice them. Most of the whitepine cones you find on the ground are already empty, but if the cone looks especially fresh you could look at the top of the scales way down next to the stem part. You might see some seeds still attached. If you want to grow pines from seeds, I would suggest that you instead find some just-sprouted pine trees and dig them up. They will be 1" to 3" high with a single bunch of needles. Good hunting, --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!nigel.msen.com!fmsrl7!destroyer!gumby!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Tue May 18 23:46:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17189 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!nigel.msen.com!fmsrl7!destroyer!gumby!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: MAYDAY!! 40' MAPLE DYING Message-ID: <1993May12.145714.263@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Distribution: na Date: Wed, 12 May 1993 14:57:14 GMT Lines: 69 In article: , tln@cbnewsf.cb.att.com (teresa.l.green) asks: > HELP!!! HELP!!! HELP!!! HELP!!! > > Hello - > I'm not sure if rec.gardens is the right place, if it's > not please refer me to the correct newsgroup. Here's my story... > We had 3 corkscrew willows that were about 15' high die > suddenly last summer. I have been told they do die suddenly when > they reach their life expectancy. But I think this was different > because the bark peeled off the branches then the leaves would die. > Now to the real crisis... We have a 40' Tulip Tree Maple > that is dying in the same manner. The bark peels of the branch > near the main trunk and the entire branch dies. Early this spring > we cut out about 15 dead branches, now there are 15 more dead ones! > If we don't do something, the tree will be dead by August! I have > talked to a few nursery people and they think it may be too much water. > Why would a tree be fine for 50 years then start dying because of water? > (We haven't changed the landscaping at all) It definitely wasn't water > with the corkscrew willows and I believe they died of the same thing, > despite nursery folks saying old age. There are no visible holes in > the bark, nor any visible mold or fungus on the bark. Oh, another > curious thing, when we cut out the dead branches they had a very strong > alcohol odor.(One guy at the nursery thought I was drunk! :-) > The bark is very damp and it just falls off the branch. Also, the > bark has a very black look to it, but its not covered with any > kind of mold. We sprayed dormant oil this spring as a first step in > controling the aphids and that is all we have done at this point. > Please feel free to respond with any recommendations, suggested > references, or wild guesses! I'm desperate to save this tree! > By the way, I have contacted my local extension office several times. > Each time I describe the problem, someone takes the info each time, > they promise to have the guy-in-the-know call back, and I NEVER hear > anything. I can no longer wait for my friendly extension office to call! > > Thanks !!!!! > > Teresa Green > teresa@ihlpm.ATT.COM This is VERY INTERESTING and truely weird! There leaves on the branches and then the bark peels off and then the leaves die?! Usually by the time the bark if peeling off the branch has been dead for some time. Do as others on the net advised and get LOCAL help ASAP. Meanwhile... Let see, what kinds of things could cause a tree to die with no sign of insect or fungus damage. Possibilities which occur to me are mostly in the realm of poisons. Have you been using herbicide on your lawn? Has a neighbor? Are you near (or down the hill from) a farmer's field on which herbicide has been used? Might there be some other contamination of the soil in your yard? Could there be some kind of air-borne poison in your neighborhood? I think I recall that trees die around certain kinds of smeltering operations. This is one of the best mysteries I've heard about in some time. I think I'll ask our local garden call-in this weekend. It would be good to have some more data from you before then. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn Tue May 18 23:46:40 EDT 1993 Article: 17190 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn From: wvhorn@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (William VanHorne) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Lawn care question Date: 15 May 1993 14:20:16 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 9 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1t2u70$24b@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Sorry to waste the bandwidth folks, but I received some e-mail from someone in Huntsville AL asking a lawn care question, and I cleverly managed to delete the message when I tried to reply. So, if you are out there, send it again. Maybe you should send it twice, I seem to losing function in my neurons. ---Bill VanHorne From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Tue May 18 23:46:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17191 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Bamboo Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Sat, 15 May 1993 15:41:08 GMT Message-ID: <24296@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 36 In response to: david.hall@canrem.com who writes: >My neighbor has some wild bamboo growing along my fence line. >The roots have spread and I now have bamboo shoots sprouting up in my >back yard. Is there any way to kill this plant? Or to stop it from >spreading? A number of folk have commented on bamboos, but I am not sure we are talking about bamboo here. In my neck of the woods what we call "wild bamboo" is not a member of the bamboo family at all but rather is a Polygonum (either Polygonum cuspidatum or Polygonum sachalinense) Other common names are "Mexican Bamboo" and "False Bamboo". In a rather lovely bit of understatement Sir Joseph Hooker said the following about Polygonum sachalinense (Giant Knotweed) back in 1864: "It has perhaps no rival for vigor of growth and rapid multiplication by the root, which last quality has its drawbacks, for it spreads widely and obtrudes itself where not wanted, to the destruction of its neighbours." Euell Gibbons in "Stalking The Wild Asparagus" has information about Polygonum cuspidatum (Japanese Knotweed). He suggests eating it and no, I am not going to touch that line with a barge pole. In summary, all this additional information I've got hold of is...useless. These Polygonums are just as hard to get rid of as true bamboos. When I asked my local nursery expert he suggested a flamethrower or low yield nuclear warheads. -Moira Carlson From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme Tue May 18 23:46:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17192 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme From: cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Apple Tree Questions (basic) Date: 15 May 1993 13:10 EST Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 41 Distribution: world Message-ID: <15MAY199313102881@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: lims01.lerc.nasa.gov News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 In article , palepink@lily.arts.com (Suzii Abe) writes... >bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) writes: >> If you are able to buy >> only one more tree for a pollinator, AVOID Gravenstein, Mutsu, and >> Jonagold, Stayman and Winesap. > >Why? > >Is there a coherent agricultural reason? > Yep. For a given variety, some varieties are much better pollinators than others. Some varieties aren't good pollinators for any other varieties. If you look through the catalogue of a decent mail-order fruit tree nursery, you'll find lots of matrix tables showing which varieties are good for pollinating others. This is particularly true of apples, pears, and cherries, which tend not to be self-fruitful (i.e. a variety that can pollinate itself). This is why you'll see catalogues aimed at the homeowner that include 3-in -1 or 5-in-1 trees. These have multiple varieties grafted onto the same rootstock so that a single tree can pollinate itself. >Or, if Gravenstein is my favorite base for pie, should I just >assume you're prejudiced toward Red Delicious and ignore you? > Having just bought three apple trees, my memory seems to agree that the varieties listed by Bruce Moon are particularly bad pollinators. Red Delicious, on the other hand, is a very good pollinator. Another thing to keep in mind is that if the trees don't blossom at the same time, they may not pollinate each other. So very-early harvest varieties may not be able to pollinate very-late harvest varieties. Some crabapples can also be used to pollinate apple trees I believe. >--Suzii. >palepink@lily.arts.com > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Marty Zimmerman | There are three types of lies; cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov | lies, damn lies, and statistics | - Mark Twain --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!chopin.udel.edu!jtmorgan Tue May 18 23:46:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17193 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!chopin.udel.edu!jtmorgan From: jtmorgan@chopin.udel.edu (James Morgan) Subject: tarragon herb Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.udel.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: chopin.udel.edu Organization: University of Delaware Date: Sat, 15 May 1993 20:26:10 GMT Lines: 2 I am growing tarragon and it has no flavor at all like what I can buy fresh in my grocery store. Is there something I must do special in cultivating this? From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Tue May 18 23:46:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17194 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Large Pumpkins - second post Message-ID: From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 16:48:37 GMT References: Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 9 Thompson & Morgan offers a special variety of Atlantic Giant that has been bred for size. Last October their were articles in magazines and newspapers about the Great Pumpokin contest with a large cash prize. A few suggestions were offered then. Plain Atlantic Gian seeds are offered in many catalogs and on seed racks. You want to pull off all but one fruit from the vine so there is plenty of leaves to nourish the spoiled pumpkin. They apparently use a tremendous amount of water to produce the fruit so you might want to put them on a drip system that runs almost nonstop, just drying out a bit to prevent rot. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Tue May 18 23:46:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17195 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Asparagus help needed Message-ID: From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 16:59:22 GMT References: <1993May12.153012.13120@iscsvax.uni.edu>The spears are produced by the male so the new hybrids that Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 12 produce mostly or all male do produce more eating. Commercial growers are moving over to the newer hybrids. They produce 2-4 times what a Martha Washington produces. I am growing mine from seed and in the second year I am seeing many new ferns so they seem to be reproducing along the roots. I have not seen any info on climate making any difference with the viability of the new hybrids except that UC157 was originally bred for the hot, dry climate of the California and is supposed to be especially good under those conditions. Jersey Giant is another that is promoted more for the Eastern gardener. Larac was one that I saw in a seed catalog that was even more productive. Burpee offered roots of both the previous two this year. Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Tue May 18 23:46:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17196 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: info beekeeping? Message-ID: From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 17:05:05 GMT References: <1993May12.200950.5445@almserv.uucp>I have seen archived newletters for a bee group (Apiary-l) logged Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 3 at SUNSITE.UNC.EDU. I have the impression that the group might be defunct because the log seemed to not be current. You can look at the past logs by ftping there. I think it was under pub/sustain_agriculture. From samba!concert!decwrl!adobe!asente Tue May 18 23:46:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17197 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!decwrl!adobe!asente From: asente@adobe.com (A Usenet Pal) Subject: Re: Asparagus help needed Message-ID: <1993May16.014535.5147@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated References: Date: Sun, 16 May 1993 01:45:35 GMT Lines: 16 A different asparagus question... We planted 4 sets of roots this year, and each root has one (1) fern coming up. My question is should I start to bury the single fern to keep it from getting broken, or should I wait until there are more ferns to start filling in the trenches? (Yes, I know they're not *really* ferns...) __ -paul asente \/ asente@adobe.com ...decwrl!adobe!asente moo-bear@cs.stanford.edu Anyone who has attended a USENIX conference in a fancy hotel can tell you that a sentence like "You're one of those computer people, aren't you?" is roughly equivalent to "Look, another amazingly mobile form of slime mold!" in the mouth of a hotel cocktail waitress. - Elizabeth Zwicky From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson Tue May 18 23:46:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17198 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Neem & Beneficial Insects Message-ID: <88.2bf4a148@axolotl> Date: 13 May 93 21:48:41 CST Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City Sender: news@axolotl.omahug.org (UUscan 1.10) Followup-To: rec.gardens Lines: 62 Neem Active Ingredient Can Adversely Affect Beneficials In past issues of _HortIdeas_, we've enumerated the unique properties of insecticides derived from the tropical neem tree, Azadirachta indica: effectiveness against many pest species, low risk to human health, and low toxicity to beneficial insects. But recent research indicates that sub-lethal doses of azadirachtin (the main insecticidal chemical in neem-based products) applied to European corn borers can adversely affect the development of beneficials (Diadegma terebrans) which parasitize the borers. Azadirachtin applications did not significantly affect parasitization rates, but death rates of the beneficials were significantly greater if the borers they parasitized were exposed to azadirachtin---many of the beneficials were unable to survive to adulthood after emerging from azadirachtin-exposed hosts. The researchers conclude that successful integrated pest management for the borer, combining a neem-based insecticide and parasites, would need imported parasites because the local parasite population couldn't be self-sustaining. This is not to say that neem insecticides should not be used as components of IPM for European corn borers (or for other pest insects where adverse effects on beneficials are seen; one such example is the tobacco hornworm parasite Cotesia congregata); after all, neem insecticides still have important advantages over some other kinds of insecticides. It does provide yet another illustration of the ecological law that "one cannot do ONLY ONE thing." Whatever kinds of interventions humans make in natural processes, there are liable to be unforeseen consequences which must be addressed. We must deal with those consequences (in this case, by importing parasites as necessary), instead of ignoring them and wishing for an (illusory) "simple and safe" solution to the problem at hand. In short, things tend to be more complicated than we often would like to suppose! Reference: C. McCloskey, J.T. Arnason, N. Donskov, R. Chenier, J. Kaminski, and B.J.R. Philogene (Ottawa-Carleton Institutes of Biology and Chemistry, University of Ottawa, Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA K1N 6N5), "Third Trophic Level Effects of Azadirachtin," _The Canadian Entomologist_ 125(1), January/February 1993, 163-165. (Entomological Society of Canada, 1320 Carling Ave., Ottawa, Ontario. CANADA K1Z 7K9.) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Reprinted with permission from the April 1993 _HortIdeas_(ISSN 0742-8219). Copyright 1993 by Greg and Pat Williams. HortIdeas is $15 (2nd class mail within the USA) for one year (12 issues). For more information or a subscription, write: HortIdeas, 460 Black Lick Road, Gravel Switch, KY 40328, USA. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- For More Info on Research Reported in HortIdeas... ...write to the author(s) of the original article for a copy of it, and/or additional details. The accepted method for communicating research findings throughout the scientific community is via OFFPRINTS, which are simply reprints of published articles available FREE UPON REQUEST FROM THEIR AUTHORS. IF YOU'RE SERIOUSLY INTERESTED in learning more, go ahead and send a postcard for an offprint! *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Bob Batson bob.batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org | Primary address bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org | Backup address ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Under the most controlled conditions, the experimental apparatus will do exactly as it pleases. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a2915 Tue May 18 23:46:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17199 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a2915 From: Christine_Code@mindlink.bc.ca (Christine Code) Subject: Re: Transplanting Columbines Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Sun, 16 May 1993 04:23:01 GMT Message-ID: <24323@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 26 Last year I spent a few days at a bed and breakfast place on Saltspring Island, where the proprieter had gorgeous deep blue columbines all over the place. I admired them, and she gave me a couple of plants to take home and transplant. I was traveling by bicycle, so the columbines were put into a plastic bag and then placed in the handlebar bag on my bicycle. They then endured a ferry ride and a bicycle ride home, involving probably 5 or more hours of transit before arriving home. And the columbines? They're flourishing! I'll be moving within a year or so, and I plan to uproot them all and bring them with me when I move. I'm sure they'll do fine. :) I think your columbines will do well, too. Let me know how it goes! ...Christine -- ========================================================================== Christine Code * * Those who can, garden. Vancouver, B.C, CANADA * And those who garden, can. Christine_Code@MindLink.bc.ca * ========================================================================== From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!tulane!theozone!greg.mccrory Tue May 18 23:46:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17200 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!tulane!theozone!greg.mccrory From: greg.mccrory@ozonehole.com (Greg Mccrory) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: HELP -- wild violets Message-ID: <3660.407.uupcb@ozonehole.com> Date: 15 May 93 08:06:00 GMT Distribution: world Organization: Ozone Online Operations, Inc. Reply-To: greg.mccrory@ozonehole.com (Greg Mccrory) References: Lines: 34 In article <1993May14.152930.1027#brtph560.bnr.ca> laurad@bnr.ca writes: > Help!! Wild violets have taken over my lawn and one of my > gardens. Back in Feb. I dug up my garden in preparation for > planting spring flowers. There were all these clumpy, knotty > growths which I dug up. I thought they were weeds and I thought > I got them all out. Well, several months later, I discovered that > they were wild violets. They have taken over the garden and have > spread into the lawn. They are quite thick in the lawn and I am > scared they will overpower the grass. Does anyone know what I can > do to get rid of this? I don't mind digging up my garden, but I > hope not to have to dig up my lawn. Will weed-n-feed be strong > enough for the lawn? If anyone has had successful experience > getting rid of this, please help. > > Thanks, > > Laura Dreisbach Why would you want to get rid of them? I have tons of them in the back yard and when I sprayed for the blackberry vines, I purposefully did not spray the violets. They never get taller than about three inches and they make cute little flowers in the spring. Actually I think they look better than the grass :) /--------------------------------------------------------\ | Greg McCrory * Metairie, LA * greg.mccrory@ozonehole.com | \--------------------------------------------------------/ --- . JABBER v1.2 . ---- The Ozone Hole BBS * SKYDIVE New Orleans! * (504)891-3142 * V.32bis/HST From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!tulane!theozone!greg.mccrory Tue May 18 23:46:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17201 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!tulane!theozone!greg.mccrory From: greg.mccrory@ozonehole.com (Greg Mccrory) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: bamboo Message-ID: <3661.407.uupcb@ozonehole.com> Date: 15 May 93 08:34:00 GMT Distribution: world Organization: Ozone Online Operations, Inc. Reply-To: greg.mccrory@ozonehole.com (Greg Mccrory) References: <1993May14.215008.18703@math.ucla.edu> Lines: 19 On Fri, 14 May 93 ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) wrote: > Find all the classic Chinese recipes using bamboo shoots. > Create new ones. Do any creatures other than humans > eat these things? If so, a pet (fill in animal name here). If > so, someone will be able to recommend a genus/species. But of course, just import a panda bear from china and you'll be all set. :) /--------------------------------------------------------\ | Greg McCrory * Metairie, LA * greg.mccrory@ozonehole.com | \--------------------------------------------------------/ --- . JABBER v1.2 . ---- The Ozone Hole BBS * SKYDIVE New Orleans! * (504)891-3142 * V.32bis/HST From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!tulane!theozone!greg.mccrory Tue May 18 23:46:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17202 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!tulane!theozone!greg.mccrory From: greg.mccrory@ozonehole.com (Greg Mccrory) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Orchid Shows? Message-ID: <3662.407.uupcb@ozonehole.com> Date: 15 May 93 09:06:00 GMT Distribution: world Organization: Ozone Online Operations, Inc. Reply-To: greg.mccrory@ozonehole.com (Greg Mccrory) Lines: 14 Does anyone know where to get information concerning orchid shows? Perhaps maybe an orchid show in New Orleans? It seems like I always hear about these things after the fact. Thanks for any help. /--------------------------------------------------------\ | Greg McCrory * Metairie, LA * greg.mccrory@ozonehole.com | \--------------------------------------------------------/ --- . JABBER v1.2 . You don't get smart except by asking stupid questions. ---- The Ozone Hole BBS * SKYDIVE New Orleans! * (504)891-3142 * V.32bis/HST From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnewsc!bermes Tue May 18 23:46:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17203 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnewsc!bermes From: bermes@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (Terry Bermes) Subject: Re: Organic Fertilizers $$$ Organization: AT&T Looney Bin Distribution: na Date: Sun, 16 May 1993 14:11:17 GMT Message-ID: References: <1993May13.170711.16495@infonode.ingr.com> Lines: 41 >From article <1993May13.170711.16495@infonode.ingr.com>, by dave@maven.b29.ingr.com (Dave Bradford): > I have a real dilemma. I like the idea of using organic fertilizers on my > lawn but they cost big bucks. I have used fertilizer from both Gardens Alive > and Ringer in the past but it hurts the ol' pocketbook too much. At the > start, Gardens Alive's stuff looked pretty reasonable until you add in the > shipping. Whew! No complaints with the product except the cost of getting it > to my door. Ringer's is approximately the same story. Our local Home Depot > sold it last year at $18 per bag. That is roughly double what you pay for > a bag of Scott's chemical fertilizer. > > How is everyone else out there dealing with this? Do you think organics are > worth the price? Are there other sources I don't know about where I can > buy product comparably priced with the inorganics? If I do go with an > inorganic, is there some way I can limit the downsides (leaching into > groundwater, quick release hurting soil flora and fauna, lack of > micronutrients)? I was thinking maybe I could apply some basic 8-8-8 type > stuff and then follow up with some fish emulsion or something for micro- > nutrients. > > So other than letting my pocketbook die for the cause, what is the poor > organic-really-wannabe to do? > > -- > Dave Bradford debradfo@maven.b29.ingr.com (Internet) > Yep, organics do cost more when you talk about things in the sense of immediate dollars. My feeling, however, is that that the price we pay in the long run as far as contaminating the water table, changing the soil to lifeless dirt, etc. is far greater than the money we're shelling out. The whole approach to organics is to build the soil over a number of years and then to sustain that. The soil becomes a living ecosystem rather than a dead plot of land that requires chemical boosters to get anything to grow. It might be cheaper for you to mix your own organics. Check out the adds in the back of ORGANIC GARDENING magazine for supply houses. You might also look around locally to see what sources are in your area. Terry From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!eng.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!caen!uvaarpa!murdoch!galen.med.Virginia.EDU!pms5s Tue May 18 23:46:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17204 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!eng.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!caen!uvaarpa!murdoch!galen.med.Virginia.EDU!pms5s From: pms5s@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (Patricia M. Shannon) Subject: Apple Trees Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: University of Virginia Date: Sun, 16 May 1993 14:21:04 GMT Lines: 10 We have two healthy three year old apple trees in our front yard and have only had three blossoms last year with no fruit. This year, we have no blossoms. Please let me know via e-mail what I should be feeding them and when. Thanks in advance. -- Pat Shannon, LRC Assistant Health Sciences Library pshannon@virginia.edu (804)924-5521 From samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!ukma!kherron Tue May 18 23:46:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17205 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!ukma!kherron From: kherron@ms.uky.edu (Kenneth Herron) Subject: Re: Letting Cucumbers & pumpkins climb Message-ID: Organization: University Of Kentucky, Dept. of Math Sciences References: <1993May13.175950.22888@tellab5.tellabs.com> Distribution: usa Date: Sun, 16 May 1993 14:33:01 GMT Lines: 21 | In order to conserve space, I'd like to let my pumpkins and |cucumbers climb this year. | Do any of you folks have suggestions as to what would be a |good (sturdy, inexpensive, attractive) support for them? The Square Foot Gardening book touches on this subject. He doesn't talk about _pumpkins_ climbing, but does mention cucumbers, tomatoes, beans, canteloupe, etc. He suggested putting together a frame from iron pipe or scrap iron, and running strings down from the overhead to the plants or using a net that's sold for the purpose. I knocked my frame together with two 2"x2"x8' treated lumber pieces (decking material, $1.99 each) and a length of galvanized pipe we happened to have. I don't know if it'll meet your definition of attractive, but it's certainly sturdy enough. -- Kenneth Herron kherron@ms.uky.edu University of Kentucky +1 606 257 1429 Dept. of Mathematics "Your ball goes over them, it sails off the edge into a huge cauldren of fire-breathing dragons." "And they call this a par three?" From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!bradley.bradley.edu!larry Tue May 18 23:46:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17206 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!bradley.bradley.edu!larry From: larry@bradley.bradley.edu (L. D. Stratton) Subject: Re: Orchid Shows? Message-ID: <1993May16.152535.7634@bradley.bradley.edu> Organization: Bradley University References: <3662.407.uupcb@ozonehole.com> Date: Sun, 16 May 93 15:25:35 GMT Lines: 17 In <3662.407.uupcb@ozonehole.com> greg.mccrory@ozonehole.com (Greg Mccrory) writes: >Does anyone know where to get information concerning orchid >shows? Perhaps maybe an orchid show in New Orleans? It seems >like I always hear about these things after the fact. Thanks for >any help. Check with the American Orchid Society in West Palm Beach, Florida. They are the sanctioning body for orchid shows. Also check with the local orchid societies. I know you have at least 2 in the New Orleans area. You will find the vast majority of shows coincide with the seasonal nature of orchids and are in either the spring or fall. Not too much happening in the summer. If you live in the New Orleans area, the weather conditions there are ideal, most of the year, for quite a few orchids that will grow outdoors needing only winter protection. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!thompson Tue May 18 23:46:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17207 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!thompson From: thompson@atlas.socsci.umn.edu (T. Scott Thompson) Subject: Re: Apple Tree Questions (basic) Message-ID: Sender: news@news2.cis.umn.edu (Usenet News Administration) Nntp-Posting-Host: daphne.socsci.umn.edu Reply-To: thompson@atlas.socsci.umn.edu Organization: Economics Department, University of Minnesota References: <15MAY199313102881@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> Date: Sun, 16 May 1993 16:34:15 GMT Lines: 25 All this talk of apple pollination prompts me to ask my own basic question: I have three "dwarf" apple trees (one is about 12 or 15 feet) and two dwarf pear trees, varieties unknown. One of the pears, which looked rather sick last year, has blossomed out, and there are maybe five blossoms on the larger apple tree, but _nothing_ else in the way of blossoms or even buds, even though the trees are pretty much leafed out now. Two other apple trees nearby are in full blossom, although there appear to be somewhat fewer blossoms on my neighbor's large tree this year compared to last year. Last year, (our first in this house) all of the trees blossomed more or less together. Do any of the experts care to speculate on what is happening? I did not spray the trees last year (although the previous owner sprayed a lot). I did a moderate amount of pruning in early March on two of the apple trees and both pear trees, which appeared to be their first pruning in quite a few years. I did no pruning on the smallest dwarf apple (currently about 6 feet tall), which has no buds or blossoms at all. -- T. Scott Thompson email: thompson@atlas.socsci.umn.edu Department of Economics phone: (612) 625-0119 University of Minnesota fax: (612) 624-0209 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Tue May 18 23:46:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17208 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Help: Potato Seedlings Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Sun, 16 May 1993 19:52:52 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 19 Can anyone give me a good description on how to identify potato seed- lings? In a fit of pique, my teenager chopped up some overripe pumpkins in my garden last fall, in the area where I have now planted potatos. I've got seedlings coming up EVERYWHERE, but I think they're mostly pumpkin seedlings -- and I don't want to accidently yank out my potato plantings. Specifically, what are the distinguishers in - shape of leaves - number of leaves - color difference, if any - clustering, if any (the pumpkin seeds are coming up in singles) Thanks, Gary Hypes From samba!concert!gatech!mailer.cc.fsu.edu!djb Tue May 18 23:46:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17209 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!mailer.cc.fsu.edu!djb From: djb@mailer.cc.fsu.edu (David Brightbill) Subject: chufas lore Organization: Florida State University Date: Sun, 16 May 1993 19:45:37 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 7 My friend Katie just got back from spain where she got herself turned onto a drink called "horchata de chufa", made from what I call nut grass or chufas. It's official name is "cyperus esculenta". Katie is convinced that our part of North Florida is THE place to grow chufas. I fought chufas in my South Florida garden for years. It was a loosing battle. I am having visions of walking catfish, kudzu, and australian pines. So kindly consider this a call fo for lore on chufas cultivation and cusine (C.F.L. Chufas) Tanks. . From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!think.com!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam Tue May 18 23:46:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17210 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!think.com!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam From: stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Pollinating Indoor Tomatoes and Cucumbers Date: 16 May 1993 20:29:05 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 13 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: marinara.mit.edu I have some Tumbler Hybrid and Orange Pixie (from Burpee) tomatoes growing indoors, and I was wondering whether I need to do anything special to make the fruits set. One of the plants flowered and set fruit very early, while another one flowered profusely, but no fruits seem to have set yet. Do I need to shake the flowers to pollinate them? My Little Leaf Cucumbers (from Park) are flowering nicely now. Do I need to pollinate these manually as well? Shih Tung Chem E Best l'il Tech School in (cold, summerless) Cambridge From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!nuntius Tue May 18 23:47:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17211 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!nuntius From: Bob Klebba Subject: Roses for the north Message-ID: <1993May14.222819.5601@nicmad.uucp> Sender: usenet@nicmad.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: mac1_04 Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1 Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 22:28:19 GMT Lines: 15 A few years ago, I got a rugosa 'Red Grootendoorst.' I used to think that roses were difficult to grow and prone to disease. Happily this rugosa has shown me a different side to roses: carefree and cold hardy. I would now like to start collecting more cold hardy roses and am wondering what the favorites for zones 4 and below might be. Has anyone out there had much luck with roses in the Great White North? Are there especially fragrant and cold-hardy roses? Thanks for your reply in advance. Bob Klebba Madison, Wisconsin, USDA zone 4 Inet: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu "Feed the soil, not the plant" From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!linac!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Tue May 18 23:47:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17212 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!linac!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Help: Potato Seedlings Message-ID: <1993May16.170951.1801@walter.cray.com> Lines: 29 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: Date: 16 May 93 17:09:51 CDT In article , hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: |> Can anyone give me a good description on how to identify potato seed- |> lings? |> |> In a fit of pique, my teenager chopped up some overripe pumpkins in |> my garden last fall, in the area where I have now planted potatos. |> I've got seedlings coming up EVERYWHERE, but I think they're mostly |> pumpkin seedlings -- and I don't want to accidently yank out my |> potato plantings. |> |> Specifically, what are the distinguishers in |> |> - shape of leaves |> - number of leaves |> - color difference, if any |> - clustering, if any (the pumpkin seeds are coming up in singles) |> |> Thanks, |> |> Gary Hypes Potato tubers will make thick green or reddish green shoots with small leaves which will slowly expand Pumpkin seeds will push big green cotyledens out of the ground. They will appear as two oval shaped leaves on a 1/8" thick stem. Pumpkin leaves will then start coming out the center. Potato seedlings will look a lot like tomato seedlings; initially small and frail. The cotyledens are long like tomato seedlings. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ysu.edu!yfn.ysu.edu!ak163 Tue May 18 23:47:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17213 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ysu.edu!yfn.ysu.edu!ak163 From: ak163@yfn.ysu.edu (Sharon Flora) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How high should my raised (sq ft) garden be? 12", 18" 24", etc. Date: 17 May 1993 00:10:31 GMT Organization: Youngstown State/Youngstown Free-Net Lines: 26 Message-ID: <1t6l5n$frg@news.ysu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: yfn.ysu.edu Hi tony, I built my raised garden with cedar boards 12" deep, 2' wide, 8' long. I followed the soil mixing according to the "Square Foot Gardening" by Mel Bartholomew. I also placed three 2"x2"x6' posts in the box. One on each end, and one in the middle. Then I nailed a 2" x 2" x 8' across the top of these posts. Then every inch I put a nail, but didn't hammer it all the way in. Along the out- side of the box behind these posts, I hammered nails every inch, but not all the way into the wood. Then I took twenty pound test fishing line, and wrapped it from top nail to bottom nail, to top nail, to bottom nail all the way to the end. This line I use to grow my zuccini (sp), green beans, peas, cantalope & watermelons on. I use old net onion bags to cradle the melons. It works like a charm, and I get many compliments from my neigh- bors. I have two boxes like this and they are VERY easy to tend because they are narrow. No back strain. I also used cedar boards for the bottom of these boxes and drilled one inch holes every foot for drainage. No critters come up from the bottom. When I dug it around this spring, I found earthworms! In answer to your question, I have no problems with the 12" deep box. Sorry I got so windy. Sharon From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!csus.edu!netcom.com!wurton Tue May 18 23:47:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17214 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!csus.edu!netcom.com!wurton From: wurton@netcom.com (William L. Urton) Subject: Re: Organic Fertilizers $$$ Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) References: <1993May13.170711.16495@infonode.ingr.com> Distribution: na Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 00:16:45 GMT Lines: 8 How about making your own? I'm producing more compost than I can use on the patio of my apartment in large plastic buckets (original contents being hand soap) that I get for nothing from work, with vegetable/fruit peelings scraps etc. and coffee/tea grounds, and potting soil and peat moss, with the only thing I've had to buy being the potting soil and peat moss. -- Bill Urton wurton@netcom.com (speaking only for myself) From samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Tue May 18 23:47:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17215 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Help: Potato Seedlings Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <1993May16.170951.1801@walter.cray.com> Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 01:51:33 GMT Lines: 39 In article <1993May16.170951.1801@walter.cray.com> gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: >In article , hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: >|> Can anyone give me a good description on how to identify potato seed- >|> lings? >|> >|> In a fit of pique, my teenager chopped up some overripe pumpkins in >|> my garden last fall, in the area where I have now planted potatos. >|> I've got seedlings coming up EVERYWHERE, but I think they're mostly >|> pumpkin seedlings -- and I don't want to accidently yank out my >|> potato plantings. >|> >|> Specifically, what are the distinguishers in >|> >|> - shape of leaves >|> - number of leaves >|> - color difference, if any >|> - clustering, if any (the pumpkin seeds are coming up in singles) >|> >|> Thanks, >|> >|> Gary Hypes > >Potato tubers will make thick green or reddish green shoots >with small leaves which will slowly expand >Pumpkin seeds will push big green cotyledens out of the >ground. They will appear as two oval shaped leaves >on a 1/8" thick stem. Pumpkin leaves will then start >coming out the center. >Potato seedlings will look a lot like tomato seedlings; initially >small and frail. The cotyledens are long like tomato seedlings. In addition, I would lthin that identification would be easier if you wait until the second set of leaves comes out. John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!munnari.oz.au!newshost.anu.edu.au!sserve!csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au!rim Tue May 18 23:47:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17216 of rec.gardens Xref: samba misc.rural:5382 rec.gardens:17216 Newsgroups: misc.rural,rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!munnari.oz.au!newshost.anu.edu.au!sserve!csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au!rim From: rim@csadfa.cs.adfa.oz.au (Bob McKay) Subject: Re: Can compost get too hot? Message-ID: <1993May17.032037.16768@sserve.cc.adfa.oz.au> Sender: news@sserve.cc.adfa.oz.au Organization: Australian Defence Force Academy, Canberra, Australia References: <1993Apr27.093009@orion.IntelliCorp.COM> Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 03:20:37 GMT Lines: 33 snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) writes: >>>In article , nelson_p@apollo.hp.com (Peter Nelson) writes: >>>|> >>>|> I'm skeptical about this. Wood and other cellulose-based >>>|> materials require a temperature of about 420 degrees (F) to >>>|> ignite, but what biological process will continue to occur >>>|> above approx. 200 degrees? >>>|> >>>|> ---peter (Hope I sorted out the nested attributions right - apologies if not). Peter's raised a fascinating point, and got me really thinking about this, as I've grown up on stories of spontaneous combustion. Pretty commonsense folk, who invested an awful lot of effort in checking the temperatures of their stacks, and tried hard to make sure they weren't stacked too green. So I'm certainly disinclined to discount their belief. My best bet? Well, a green stack is going to contain lots of stuff other than cellulose; in particular, by the time the bugs have been working for awhile, there'll be an awful lot of alcohols and esters floating around, some of which will have quite low ignition temperatures. Also methane and maybe hydrogen. Certainly the temps won't need to be anything like 420F for ignition (though it's only once the temp gets up to there that you'll get a runaway fire, of course). I don't know if any of those would have ignition temps in the biological range, but even if not, there's also the possibility of catalysis boosting the temperature above that attained by bio processes Cheers Bob McKay -- Bob McKay Phone: +61 6 268 8169 fax: +61 6 268 8581 Dept. Computer Science,ADFA, Northcott Dve, Campbell ACT 2600 AUSTRALIA From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!chnews!ornews.intel.com!ornews!jlawlor Tue May 18 23:47:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17217 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!chnews!ornews.intel.com!ornews!jlawlor From: jlawlor@ptdi12.intel.com (Jay Lawlor ~) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: My poor tomato plant Date: 16 May 93 22:30:40 Organization: Intel Portland Technology Development Lines: 32 Message-ID: Reply-To: jlawlor@ptdcs2.intel.com NNTP-Posting-Host: ptdi12.intel.com Just wanted to share this with someone who might sympathize. About ten days ago I put out my first two tomato plants. I added two more a few days later and two more a couple days ago. So I now have (or at least had) six, each of a different variety as I like to experiment to find which ones I really like. The first ones I put out are just now starting to really grow and get that deep green healthy look. Four of the plants are in those cylindrical cages which, to my 18 month old son, look functionally similar to his toy basketball hoop. So tonight we were outside playing. I heard him clapping and saying "yay!". I looked over and he had just scored two points with his soccer ball right on top of a tomato plant in a cage. And it was one of the early varieties that I was hoping to get production from before my neighbors get theirs. :^) Actually I just want some real tomatoes, whether I beat my neighbors or not. Anyway looks like I just lost ten days and I'll be stopping by the local nursery on the way home from work tomorrow. :^( I think the plant could survive. The main stem was snapped half-way up. There are other "branches" below the break but it seems that most of the growth would normally be through the top and I don't want a less than fully productive plant taking up any of the limited sunny space in my yard. -- Jay Lawlor jlawlor@ptdcs2.intel.com Mailstop: AL4-57 Phone: (503) 642-8050 FAX: (503) 649-3996 ============================================================================== From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Tue May 18 23:47:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17218 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Roses for the north Date: 17 May 1993 12:44:03 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 38 Message-ID: <1t81aj$aum@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <1993May14.222819.5601@nicmad.uucp> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu (Bob Klebba) says: >A few years ago, I got a rugosa 'Red Grootendoorst.' I used to think >that roses were difficult to grow and prone to disease. Happily this >rugosa has shown me a different side to roses: carefree and cold hardy. > >I would now like to start collecting more cold hardy roses and am >wondering what the favorites for zones 4 and below might be. Has anyone >out there had much luck with roses in the Great White North? Are there >especially fragrant and cold-hardy roses? ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yes. "Therese Bugnet" is a Rugosa hybrid that produces a huge show of very double, strongly perfumed-a mixture of old rose and cloves- pink flowers. It was developed in Canada and is very tough. It gets to be 4 ft. wide by 5 ft. high. "Marie Bugnet" is another tough customer, but much different from Therese. MB is a lax, sprawling shrub with white, single flowers. Some of the old garden roses are hardy to USDA zone 4. "William Baffin" and "Martin Frobisher" are reputedly good northern types, but I have not grown them myself. I'd be willing to bet that "Stanwell Perpetual" might work in your zone- spinosissima heritage. The species rugosas such as R. rugosa rubra grow into the Sakhalin Islands north of Japan, so they'd work for you too. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * DECONSTRUCTION--- the critical method invented A-B College * by Procrustes Philippi, WV * * From samba!concert!balsam!unca!strauss Tue May 18 23:47:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17219 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!balsam!unca!strauss From: strauss@uncavx.unca.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: curry plant? Date: 17 May 93 08:37:47 EDT Organization: University of North Carolina at Asheville Lines: 11 Message-ID: <1993May17.083747.1@uncavx.unca.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: uncavx.unca.edu I bought a plant this weekend, called a Curry plant. Smells just like curry. I know, however, that curry does not use this plant. I forget the scientific name, starts with an "H". Does anyone know if it *is* edible? I don't think so: nothing with it to indicate such. Apparently, it is a moth repellant. But wouldn't be worth smelling like curry, in order to protect woolen sweaters. Not to me, anyway. Thanks, Bob Strauss strauss@unca.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ac849 Tue May 18 23:47:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17220 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ac849 From: ac849@Freenet.carleton.ca (Diane Dodds) Subject: Wild Violets Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: National Capital Freenet, Ottawa, Canada Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 12:58:34 GMT Lines: 11 Hi Why would you want to get rid of these dainty, purple flowers? They are taking over the top part of my rock garden in the backyard and I can't wait to see the results. I have purple, yellow and white ones. The more the better. As my SO says, who wants grass, let's plant it. -- From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!noc.msc.net!ns!ns!guy Tue May 18 23:47:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17221 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!noc.msc.net!ns!ns!guy From: guy@ns.network.com (Guy D'Andrea) Subject: Help? Willow tree with MANY little black beetles eating the leaves! Message-ID: <1993May17.130318.19218@ns.network.com> Sender: news@ns.network.com Nntp-Posting-Host: ns Organization: Network Systems Corporation Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 17 May 93 13:03:18 GMT Lines: 10 I have a Willow tree that old fairly old. I just gave it a look over and it has these little black beetles (about a 1/16" to 1/8" in size) ALL over it! They seem to love the new shoots coming out and are really eating it up. Anything I can do? I'm not sure if they are going to kill the tree or not, but they can't be to good for it!? Any help out there? Thanks! -Guy guy@nsco.network.com, Guy Dandrea, Network Systems Corp., Mpls. MN 55428, USA 1-800-328-9108 Fax:(612)424-1736 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cbl.umd.edu!cbl.umd.edu!news Tue May 18 23:47:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17222 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cbl.umd.edu!cbl.umd.edu!news From: ulan@cbl.umd.edu (Robert Ulanowicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Zones Date: 17 May 1993 09:26:07 -0400 Organization: University of Maryland, Chesapeake Biological Laboratory Lines: 29 Message-ID: <1t83pfINNig0@cbl.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: cbl.umd.edu Summary: Hardiness zones determined by average yearly minimum temperatures. >What are the zone numbers based on, and are they consistent across >the country? We are zone 6 here, and I've seen some postings from >NY that are also zone 6. I suspect our conditions are quite a >bit different, though. Dear Todd: The phenological zones are based on the average annual minimum temperatures as calculated from long-term records. For example, zone 7 experiences a yearly minimum temperature of between 0 and 10F; zone 8 between 10 and 20F, etc. In zone 6, expect a yearly minimum temp of between 0 and -10F. A quick note, in these days of global warming, the zones have been creeping to the SOUTH! That is, despite the increasing mean temperatures, the standard deviation has been growing even faster, so that abnormally low temps are experienced for short intervals during the winter. If we were living in the 23rd Century and trying to estimate temperatures from pollen records, we would guess that our period was one of global COOLING! I keep close track of the yearly minimums. I grow palm trees in my zone 7 backyard, and the supposed warm years of the 80's have provided some really killer frosts. Just ask those who went bankrupt growing citrus in Central Florida! Cheers, Bob Ulanowicz Keywords: Plant hardiness zones, phenology, global warming From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!scotty.dccs.upenn.edu!tony Tue May 18 23:47:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17223 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!scotty.dccs.upenn.edu!tony From: tony@scotty.dccs.upenn.edu (Anthony Olejnik) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bee in shed. It won`t leave and its trying to build a nest. Message-ID: <127136@netnews.upenn.edu> Date: 17 May 93 11:54:32 GMT Sender: news@netnews.upenn.edu Distribution: usa Organization: University of Pennsylvania Lines: 18 Nntp-Posting-Host: scotty.dccs.upenn.edu For the last week a (single ?) bee has been trying to build what looks like the beginning of a hive/nest on the inside of the roof of my small shed out back. I`ve knocked it down a few times. Each day, the bee is back rebuilding in the same spot. Q: What can I do to prevent this? Should I just kill the bee (and hope that its the only one)? Should I spray the spot with something that will keep the bee away? (If so, what do you recommend) What if there are multiple bees? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. --tony From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Tue May 18 23:47:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17224 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: drying garlic Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 13:49:34 GMT Lines: 9 I'm growing a lot of garlic this year and would like to hear the opinion of experienced growers on the topic of drying the bulbs. I'm most interested in time recommended and location. In particular, how do you feel about sun exposure once harvested (eg: A-frame drying. I heard of someone who did this, but I can't help but think it would be excessive). Thanks in advance! From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Tue May 18 23:47:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17225 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: 2,4-D, dandelions & organic Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 13:54:22 GMT Lines: 41 In peyton.bland@med.umich.edu (Peyton Bland) writes: >After 3-4 years of not using herbicides on my lawn, I had to give-in this >year and use Scotts with 2,4-D. Previously I had been using Ringer's >Restore and was happy to do the needed weeding by hand even though my yard >is fairly large. But this year it was too much: the weeds seemed several >times more dense - too much to pull by hand. A few questions: >1. Will this single application of 2,4-D kill the good soil microbes and >bacteria that I hope had been thriving while I used the Ringers? I don't think it'll kill worms, but I can't believe that it is so selective as to only cause cancer in dandelions. I have read literature siting some creatures that suffer death/mutation of some kind. >2. Anything new on the horizon as far as organic control of broad-leaf >weeds is concerned? I have heard about work being done with corn gluten. >3. My other defense is to pick all dandelion flowers before they have a >chance to go to seed (and not worry about pulling up the whole plant). >Does picking the flowers in this way induce the plant to produce more >flowers at an accelerated rate? Keeping them from going to seed will help I'm sure. I have had good success keeping them from spreading too much on my main lawn. >Any other comments are welcomed! It seems from what I've seen/done/read that if one has the right soil conditions, the grass can compete quite well with weeds. Aerating, compost application and overseeding (coupled with a bit of handweeding and mowing when weeds flower) seem to create a healthy lawn. >Thanks, >Peyton Bland >Image Processing Lab >Dept. of Radiology, Univ. of Michigan Hospital From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Tue May 18 23:47:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17226 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: Large Pumpkins - second post Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: <1srk5l$l9@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 14:04:53 GMT Lines: 17 Every second seed catalogue I looked at this year contained "Atlantic Giant" seeds. Stokes, for instance. Unless you're trying to win a local title, you might also be interested in a more pumpkin-like jumbo. Prizewinner (Stokes), Big Moon and Big Max are typically 75-200 lbs from what I've heard, and Prizewinner, for instance, kept a fairly round shape and a beautiful reddish/orange colour. I went to a "weigh-off" with my largest Prizewinner and came about 10th out of 16 entries, but everyone raved about the colour. The others, all At. Giants, ranged from pale orange to green. However, the winning atlantic giant weighed 681 lbs (3rd in the world). I'll probably grow both this year because I have the space. But if space was tight and I didn't want to compete, I'd grow only Prizewinner. Have fun! From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!echristo Tue May 18 23:47:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17227 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!echristo From: echristo@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Elena A Christofides) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Thanks. Now where do I find this? Date: 17 May 1993 14:18:41 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1t86s1$49p@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Thanks to one and all for helping me out with this! I finally find out that the bush in Cyprus called "Pakistanos" is in fact a jasmine. It's actually a jasmine called "Grand Duke of Tuscany" even though it's under the category of Indian Jasmine: specifically "jasminum sambac." So now where do I find this thing? I have several mail order catalogs, and none of them have this particular type. Anyone? Anyone? Thanks for the help! Elena From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!olivea!news.bbn.com!dwilbert Tue May 18 23:47:24 EDT 1993 Article: 17228 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!olivea!news.bbn.com!dwilbert From: dwilbert@bbn.com (Deborah Wilbert) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Date: 17 May 1993 14:32:20 GMT Lines: 32 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: testament.bbn.com farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: >About this time last year, I volunteered to do a Wildflower FAQ. (no, Kay, I >didn't forget. I started a project on Trillium, entered graduate school, >applied to the UTK Botany department, and took the GRE -- it's been a busy >year). Anyway, I still want to do it if there's enough demand for one. >(I don't see many posts on wildflowers). >So, do y'all want one, and what kinds of things to you want to see in it? I'm particularly interested in woodland wildflowers, as it seems to be the best way to deal with shady areas of the yard. Trillium is a great start. BTW, I saw an unusual Trillium for sale at the Garden in the Woods, MA (where all plants are propagated from seed, not "harvested"). The flower was beatiful-- very full, looked almost like a gardenia blossom. The drawback: $62.00 for one plant! So, for woodland flowers, I think we should discuss suitability for shady gardens, responsible purchasing, good flower combinations (to lengthen the blooming season), etc. BTW, does anyone know the story on Lady's Slippers? I used to see the pink variety sometimes in the woods behind my parents house, but I haven't seen any in years. I looked last Sunday because I know they have just started to bloom around here. What sort of changes would cause the Lady's Slippers to die out? Are they still around but just not blooming? Could they be successfully be reintroduced? (I know they are very hard to get; I know I don't want to buy plants which were gathered from the wild, etc) Thanks, -Deborah Wilbert From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal Tue May 18 23:47:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17229 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal From: moskal@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Tera Moskal) Subject: Where to buy dwarf apple trees? Message-ID: Summary: Looking for good source of dwarf apple trees. Keywords: apple, tree Sender: usenet@news.acns.nwu.edu (Usenet on news.acns) Nntp-Posting-Host: unseen3.acns.nwu.edu Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 14:37:36 GMT Lines: 5 Does anyone know where I can order dwarf-apple trees? I'm looking for a catalog place that has good dwarf varieties, not the semi-dwarf kind. Thanks. Tera Moskal moskal@ccadmin.tech.nwu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!udel!gvls1!rmtc.paramax.com!garyp Tue May 18 23:47:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17230 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!udel!gvls1!rmtc.paramax.com!garyp From: garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/SWE/ISP]) Subject: Re: Berms and Soil Prep... Please advise. Message-ID: <1993May17.144409.24050@VFL.Paramax.COM> Sender: news@VFL.Paramax.COM (IEE news user) Nntp-Posting-Host: rmtcf4.rmtc.paramax.com Organization: Paramax Systems References: <1993May13.175951.5515@VFL.Paramax.COM> <1993May13.163637.13145@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May14.155108.18258@VFL.Paramax.COM> <1993May14.193818.13176@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 14:44:09 GMT Lines: 37 In article <1993May14.193818.13176@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: |> In article <1993May14.155108.18258@VFL.Paramax.COM>, garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/SWE/ISP]) writes: |> I was thinking of the photos of trees I saw blown over when the |> Big Wind went through Kew, and the hundreds (?thousands?) of trees |> I've seen go over in tornados, sleet storms, etc. The bulk of the |> root mass is actually quite shallow but broadly spread in most |> temperate species. I've seen some homemade relandscaping that |> added berms about 5' high and 4' wide. Many of the trees toppled |> in a windstorm just because the canopy caught so much wind that |> Kay Klier I think that is why it is important to make sure the additional soil is compacted properly for its composition and also an important reason to make sure the trees can anchor in the natural soil below the berms. When planting trees on berms, natural compaction of the fill is just not practical in even mildly windy locations. Actually, this is the reason for the original request. I can calculate how much to compact the soil given the height, grade, and composition of the berm. This is a math problem :) But I don't know enough about how trees grow (mostly Colorado Blue Spruces, Ashes and Maples) to understand how they will react to trying to grow from nice soil into lousy soil. Maybe the best thing to do is to fill with natural soils... In any case, it doesn't seem like rec.gardens is a good place to be looking for an answer. It seems like there is a hole between misc.consumers.house and rec.gardens that requires misc.consumers.landscaping. Thanks anyway... To the folk who e-mailed as well. Gary P. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnews!cheryl Tue May 18 23:47:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17231 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnews!cheryl From: cheryl@cbnews.cb.att.com (cheryl.a.rothlisberger) Subject: Silver Jade - 2nd Post Organization: AT&T Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 15:03:13 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 26 Help! Something's wrong with my silver jade plant (crassula arborescens). I've had it indoors all winter where it has done beautifully. Now that the weather has warmed up, I put the plant out on deck in full sun as I do every year. After only two days the top leaves flattened out and turned brownish red. They look sun scorched. Is this a possibility? The weather during those 48 hours was approx 51 degrees at night and rose from 75 to 90 during the day. We had some morning fog. Could the sun have burned the leaves because they were wet from the fog? I moved it under our table umbrella which is mesh so filtered sunlight gets through, and I've fed it with Miracle Grow. I've always had the plant out in full sun every summer for the past 21 years. What's wrong? The leaves are dropping off at an alarming rate. What, if anything, should I do now? Please help if you can, I don't want to lose my plant. I live in Central NJ close to the Barnegat Bay. Thanks in advance, Cheryl From samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnews!cheryl Tue May 18 23:47:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17232 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnews!cheryl From: cheryl@cbnews.cb.att.com (cheryl.a.rothlisberger) Subject: Lillies of the Valley Organization: AT&T Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 15:08:26 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 6 Will Lillies of the Valley grow in containers? I'd like to transplant some bulbs from our yard to a planter box. If this is possible, what kind of care should I give the bulbs to encourage blooms next year? Thanks in advance, Cheryl From samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!think.com!mac-jimmy-40.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co Tue May 18 23:47:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17233 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!think.com!mac-jimmy-40.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co From: George T. Pearson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bouncing Bet Date: 17 May 1993 15:30:02 GMT Organization: DFCI Lines: 5 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1t8b1qINNnc@early-bird.think.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac-jimmy-40.dfci.harvard.edu X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d17 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Mon, 17 May 93 11:30:27 GMT Is anyone familiar with a plant called !Bouncing Bet!? I got a couple at a neighborhood plant sale just to be adventurous! I was told that it grows in the wild and has some kind of flower. I don!t know if it likes lots of sun, is appropriate as a potted plant, needs lots of watering or what. Any info that can be offerred is greatly appreciated. From samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!stoffel Tue May 18 23:47:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17234 of rec.gardens Xref: samba misc.consumers.house:33449 rec.gardens:17234 Path: samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!stoffel From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel) Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mulching mowers summary Message-ID: <35926@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 17 May 93 15:37:49 GMT References: Reply-To: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel) Followup-To: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens Organization: Annapolis Detachment, CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC Lines: 23 In misc.consumers.house, wes@sscvx1 ( Wes Smith) writes: >Mark - I believe that John Deere puts Kawasaki engines in their mowers now, >instead of an American make. When I bought my JD rear-bagger ('87), the >owner made the comment that that would be the last time you could get one >with a B&S. When I went out to shop for a mulcher last spring, I went to >two JD dealers and all their mowers had Kawasakis. They also pointed me to >the Honda Harmony over the JD mulcher, and I took their advice. The Honda >was assembled by American workers, don't know about JD. My data is about 1 year old, but may still be accurate. I was only looking at riders & tractors, so I also do not know about the smaller mowers. At that time, the JD riders had Kawasaki engines, but the tractors I looked at had Kohlers. Very nice engines with pressurized lubrication. As far as I know Kohlers are built in N. America. As far as I know, the rest of the tractor was too. Bill __________________________________________________________________________ Bill Stoffel | CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC |<- x-DTRC | stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil | Code 859 | x-NSRDC | (410) 267-3825 | Annapolis, MD 21402 | x-DTNSRDC (et alia) | _________________________________________________|________________________| From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!ringrose Tue May 18 23:47:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17235 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!ringrose From: ringrose@iastate.edu (Sharon L Ringrose) Subject: Treated grass clippings as mulch? Message-ID: Sender: news@news.iastate.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA References: Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 15:35:18 GMT Lines: 17 I've got three bags of grass clippings I want to use as mulch for perennials. The problem is that my landlord had the lawn sprayed with chem-garbage (I'm getting a PhD in chemistry, I can call it that). The yard was just sprayed a week and a half ago if that matters. Will these clippings hurt the perennials in any way? Does it matter what perennials I've planted? I usually don't bag clippings but due to several strange circumstances, I had no choice - mower died and borrowed landlord's which won't cut high. I'd appreciate any info on this. I really need to mulch those perennials and those clippings would be perfect, except that I don't want to kill my new plants. Thanks! Sharon Ringrose ringrose@iastate.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!icd.ab.com!ganymede!kowalski Tue May 18 23:47:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17236 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!icd.ab.com!ganymede!kowalski From: kowalski@brutus.aa.ab.com Subject: Re: HELP -- wild violets are taking over my lawn In-Reply-To: <1993May14.152930.1027@brtph560.bnr.ca> Message-ID: <1993May17.150232.3720@icd.ab.com> Originator: kowalski@ganymede Sender: usenet@icd.ab.com (Usenet News Administrator) Nntp-Posting-Host: ganymede.aa.ab.com Organization: A-B Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 15:02:32 GMT Lines: 26 -- TRIED TO E-MAIL SEVERAL TIMES AND COULDNT, SORRY -- Sorry, I cant give you any help in getting rid of violets. But I can tell you that for at least 15-20 years your lawn will not be damaged by the violets. My folks have them in with the lawn and the grass is still strong and healthy. so are the violets! (this is USDA zone 5-6, PA, dont know the grass type -- thin, nice stuff) So if you want them gone because you're worried about the grass -- worry no more! If you want them gone because you dislike the look, i can't help. I love violets in my lawn so we may be on opposite sides of the fence here. If you're not sure of the look, give em a try, they are very pretty in the spring and mow down the rest of the year. If you dont like the look -- good luck. And remember they WILL spread across your lawn over the years. pk. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!caen!msuinfo!tigger!tigger Tue May 18 23:47:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17237 of rec.gardens Xref: samba misc.rural:5407 rec.gardens:17237 Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!caen!msuinfo!tigger!tigger From: tigger@tigger () Newsgroups: misc.rural,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Can compost get too hot? Followup-To: misc.rural,rec.gardens Date: 17 May 1993 17:26:12 GMT Organization: String to put in the Organization Header Lines: 52 Message-ID: <1t8hrk$i7g@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: tigger.cl.msu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] Anybody who can expand on the following, please do so, since much of this is coming from ancient memories of things I've read and gathered over quite a period of time. Dust explosions (in silos, dust collectors, etc). Most of what I've heard on this used to be in reference to silo dust explosions, however, now I hear more about it with reguard to dust collectors in wood shops (since they've become more popular these days). In general, the dust explodes (which is just simply very rapid combustion) because of a high concentration/surface area of dust particles suspended in air which is acting as a source of oxygen. The ignition of this combustable mixture generally takes place because of a static discharge which is produced by the rapid movement of the dust in silo/dust collection tubes (this is much the same sort of action that creates lightning). This is not to say that it couldn't be ignited from another source. Compost piles typically go through a life cycle. An aerobic life generally spends most of its time in the middle temperature stage generated by mesophiles(sp?) (ie, bacteria, etc. which live in temperature ranges of like 80-100 F (This is something of a guess can't remember exactly, correct as necessary). However, for periods of time (like a week or so) a compost pile's temp. will rise to 150 F (thermophiles). These temperatures are for your typical 4x4x4 compost pile. A bigger compost pile will be better insulated and temperatures can probably get higher, also certain sorts of compost will decompose faster and at higher temperatures. Green hay tends to be a problem because it gets stacked in large piles and as packed as it is baled, there still is a significant amount of oxygen present, coupled with the fact that it gets stuck in lofts where the temp. is 100+ on an August day. Green hay will start to decompose (the moisture helps) and low and behold the temperature gets extreme. If your compost pile is warm and moist, it'll steam on a cool day, that's normal. If it's a hot dry August afternoon, that's probably not steam, but smoke, now it's time to get worried. Generally there's a critical mass before a compost pile will be well enough insulated for temps. to get high enough for ignition (can't remember what they might be, but I would guess that your typical (read as optimal) 4x4x4 compost pile probably does not achieve that mass (I'm not promising anything, the right conditions might change this). An aside note, compost piles sometimes go anaerobic and that's when then usually start to smell, hense, this is why we want to turn them every so often. -- Eric Kasten Michigan State University Tigger@ibm.cl.msu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!msuinfo!tigger!tigger Tue May 18 23:47:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17238 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!msuinfo!tigger!tigger From: tigger@tigger () Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peonies and Ants Date: 17 May 1993 17:28:59 GMT Organization: String to put in the Organization Header Lines: 19 Distribution: na Message-ID: <1t8i0r$i7g@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> References: <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: tigger.cl.msu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] Dave Bradford (dave@maven.b29.ingr.com) wrote: : Why are ants (usually big black ones) always on my peonies? They seem : to start accumulating there when the flower buds swell up. I have looked : for aphids and I can't see any evidence of them. Are the ants after some : nectar? I have no noticable damage to the blooms or plant. : Thanks. : -- : Dave Bradford debradfo@maven.b29.ingr.com (Internet) Ants like the substance (another think I can't remember) that holds the flower bud in the ball shape. The ants eat this substance (or at least collect it) and then the flower can open. It's another one of natures interdependencies between the plant and insect world. -- Eric Kasten Michigan State University Tigger@ibm.cl.msu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!ogicse!lclark!klotz Tue May 18 23:47:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17239 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!ogicse!lclark!klotz From: klotz@lclark.edu (Gretchen Klotz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Organic Fertilizers $$$ Message-ID: <1993May17.171834.27440@lclark.edu> Date: 17 May 93 17:18:34 GMT Article-I.D.: lclark.1993May17.171834.27440 References: <1993May13.170711.16495@infonode.ingr.com> Distribution: na Organization: Lewis & Clark College, Portland OR Lines: 36 In article wurton@netcom.com (William L. Urton) writes: >How about making your own? That's my plan. I'm gardening for the first time in the Pacific Northwest, and have been reading _Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades: Steve Solomon's Complete Guide to Natural Gardening_. Although most of the book is specific to the area, there's a good deal of general information. Solomon has a very understandable chapter on "A Short Course in Soil Science." He describes himself as a small-o organic gardener. His "not-so-secret fertilizer formula" is: 4 parts seed meal or fish meal 1 part dolomite lime (in addition to whatever liming you do for pH -- this will neutralize any seed meal acidity and provide calcium and magnesium) 1 part rock phosphate or 1/2 part bone meal 1 part kelp meal He says, "Such a blend will analyze about 1:1.5:1." He recommends adjusting it for different needs (e.g., legumes). Solomon is the founder and former owner of the Territorial Seed Company, and currently homesteads in southwestern Oregon. I'm really enjoying the book, and agree with a lot of his philosophy about gardening. I'm planning to try this fertilizer recipe. I'm a little behind since we just moved into a new house, so can't yet report on how it works (and won't be doing any comparison studies ;-). - Gretchen (feeling thankful that my SO is into using the antiquated rototiller we borrowed! the plot hasn't been gardened in 2 years) -- Searching for a deep and meaningful .sig that sums up my existence, philosophy, perspective, mood and/or wish for the planet in 4 lines or less... From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!olivea!quack!pharvey Tue May 18 23:47:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17240 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!olivea!quack!pharvey From: pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey) Subject: Re: How cold is cold? (was Re: Planting tomatoes) Message-ID: Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'. References: Date: 17 May 1993 17:16:38 UTC Lines: 46 In article snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) writes: >In article jlawlor@ptdcs2.intel.com writes: >>>>>>> On 12 May 1993 18:21:35 UTC, pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey) said: >>Paul> One unusual application I've found for it is to wake up >>Paul> over-wintered plants like eggplants that go into a slow growth >>Paul> mode from the lack of winter sun; MiracleGro or equivalent used >>Paul> as a foliar feed seems to be just the thing to wake them up into >>Paul> normal growth. As a chemical fertilizer goes, it's probably the >>Paul> best that money can buy, but economical is not the word for it. >>This "slow growth mode" reminds me of a question I've been meaning to >>ask. I've heard that tomato plants can be "permanently" stunted by >>too much cool weather early in the season. >>Question 1: How cool (and for what duration) would the temperatures >> need to be to cause this? >>Question 2: If this were to happen, would it be possible to "wake >> them up" as mentioned above for overwintered plants? >This is interesting. I believe that my Sugar Baby Watermelons were >'permanently" stunted by unusual cold weather (low of 40 F) late >last spring (around Memorial day). >How cold is so cold that it stunts warm weather plants? This is very hard to measure. First off, note that many of the summer vegetables are tropicals that never see below 70oF in their native lands. Nights above 50oF is a common requirement for tropicals and obviously many of us would have problems with this. Certainly frost is a problem (~35-28oF). But a more important factor is stress, for example a daytime high of 80oF followed by a very cold night down to say 45oF followed by a hot morning, say 75oF. Humidity and winds are contributing factors, cold soil is definitely a contributing factor. >Is the stunting permanent? >Can you wake them up? I think you can, but you're gonna have to try and experiment at your location. Wait until the cold event is well past and you are reasonably sure that the threat of spring cold is past, then chose three identical plants that you think are suffering from cold setback. Water and wet the foliage of one with the correct mixture of MiracleGro or equivalent and room temp (~70oF) water. Water and wet the second with just room temp water and don't touch the third. Check results, perhaps repeating over a few days. If you get results, they should be fairly pronounced as full growth is pretty fast for tropical annual vegetables. Of course if another freak cold event comes along after this treatment, it'll probably kill the plants treated. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!delphi.bc.edu!mt37.bc.edu!user Tue May 18 23:47:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17241 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!delphi.bc.edu!mt37.bc.edu!user From: jenson/mt@hermes.bc.edu (Richard A. Jenson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: is my dogwood sick or just resting? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 17 May 1993 18:17:29 GMT Organization: Boston College/ Mathematics Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: mt37.bc.edu About 3-4 years ago I planted a red seven foot dogwood and this spring there are an unusually small number of blooms. Should I be worried? Can I fix it? I try to fertilize it with stakes just before winter. I seem to recall that fruit trees and oaks too have an unpredictable cycle in which they just "take a season off" to regroup (so to speak). Is this what is happening? E-mail or post. Either way, thanks. richard jenson mathematics/ boston college jenson/mt@hermes.bc.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!ibmpcug!chrisc Tue May 18 23:47:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17242 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,connect.audit Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!ibmpcug!chrisc From: chrisc@ibmpcug.co.uk (Chris Cook) Subject: Re: My poor tomato plant X-Disclaimer: The views expressed in this article are those of the author alone and may not represent the views of the IBM PC User Group. Organization: The IBM PC User Group, UK. Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 17:27:03 GMT Message-ID: References: Sender: chrisc@ibmpcug.co.uk (Chris Cook) Lines: 18 Tomato Plant Disasters ... Tomatoes are really easy to take cuttings from. If your toddler snaps off a helthy top, take the remains indoors, plant it in damp compost and most times the snapped-off bit will root like crazy - hormone powder not essential - and after 2 weeks or so can be replanted as a fresh plant. If you have a particularly vigorous tomato plant it can be worth letting a few side-shoots develop as cutting fodder, instead of pinching out as soon as seen, as the cuttings will be equally as vigourous. For the first day or so tomato cuttings look pretty sick, but around day three they should perk up and then you will know if they're going to 'take'. Chris Cook Beckenham England -- From samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!wupost!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!apple.com!voder!berlioz.nsc.com!pinecrest!betz Tue May 18 23:47:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17243 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!wupost!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!apple.com!voder!berlioz.nsc.com!pinecrest!betz From: betz@pinecrest.nsc.com Subject: Starting Veggies: Best Place? Message-ID: <1993May17.185656.15826@berlioz.nsc.com> Sender: news@berlioz.nsc.com (UseNet News account) Organization: National Semiconductor Corporation Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 18:56:56 GMT Lines: 14 I planted my first veggie garden last week and everything except my carrots, corriander, and basil is coming up. Each of these seeds were the smallest of the lot with an average sowing depth of 1/4 - 1/2". I am afraid that these seeds may have been washed away during watering. In your experience, does it make more sense to start these seeds in pots or is it pretty commom to start really small seeds directly in the ground? If in the ground, any suggestions on how to get them through the germination stage without being dislodged from the planting row? Thanks for the info. Gary Betz betz@berlioz.nsc.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!bu.edu!murray!vida Tue May 18 23:47:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17244 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!bu.edu!murray!vida From: vida@murray.bu.edu (Vida Jakabhazy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: what plant combinations do y'all put in your windowboxes? Message-ID: <119791@bu.edu> Date: 17 May 93 18:42:08 GMT Sender: news@bu.edu Organization: Boston University Center for Remote Sensing Lines: 14 My recent garden-related fascination has been plant pairings. I have become obsessed with developing a repertoire of beautiful plant combinations and so love to experiment every summer. I usually relegate the more bizarre combinations to my windowboxes so that I can pull them apart easily. So, as I sit at work and daydream about what my next windowbox should look like, I was wondering what successful plant pairings other folks have come up with. I'd love to hear others' suggestions! I'd also be happy to post the responses, if any. Vida Jakabhazy vida@crsa.bu.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!risc.sps.mot.com!not-for-mail Tue May 18 23:47:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17245 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!risc.sps.mot.com!not-for-mail From: wcl@risc.sps.mot.com (Wayne Long) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: What to do? Japanese Beetles are chowing down on .. Date: 17 May 1993 13:43:51 -0500 Organization: Motorola (Austin,TX) Lines: 13 Message-ID: <1t8md7INNpov@ome.sps.mot.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ome.sps.mot.com my grape leaves, tomato leaves, and to some extent, strawberry leaves. These guys are voracious! What should I use: Rotenone? Diatomatious earth? Pyrethrim? Sevin Dust? What?! -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- Wayne Long - OE215 Internet: wcl@risc.sps.mot.com 6501 William Cannon Drive West UUCP: cs.texas.edu!oakhill!risc!wcl Austin, Texas 78735-8598 Phone (512) 891-4649 FAX: 891-3818 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!billg.agn.uiuc.edu!dlee Tue May 18 23:47:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17246 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!billg.agn.uiuc.edu!dlee From: dlee@UIUC Subject: PREEN??? Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 19:41:58 GMT Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Keywords: herbicides Organization: Department of Agronomy Lines: 6 I don't know if this has come up before in this newsgroup (I just starting reading it recently) but does anyone have experience with using "PREEN" herbicide in their vegetable gardens? I have a huge garden and am trying to avoid some of the weeding work. Thanks! From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr Tue May 18 23:47:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17247 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr From: davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peonies and Ants Message-ID: <1t8sb3$e58@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 17 May 93 20:25:07 GMT Article-I.D.: walt.1t8sb3$e58 References: <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com> <1993May13.130811.13139@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May14.160920.2238@phx.mcd.mot.com> <1993May14.200043.13177@iscsvax.uni.edu> Distribution: na Lines: 11 NNTP-Posting-Host: ursula.ee.pdx.edu klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >So. Sounds like we need an experiment. Thought about it when I was >driving back from Ames. Only problem is, I'm in the process of moving, >so I'll have to borrow a peony plant to molest... This sounds fascinating! I can't wait to find out what you come up with, Kay... Hope you find a molestee. -David Robinson davidr@ee.pdx.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr Tue May 18 23:47:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17248 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr From: davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help: Potato Seedlings Message-ID: <1t8tme$eet@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 17 May 93 20:48:14 GMT Article-I.D.: walt.1t8tme$eet References: Lines: 32 NNTP-Posting-Host: ursula.ee.pdx.edu hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: >Can anyone give me a good description on how to identify potato seed- >lings? >In a fit of pique, my teenager chopped up some overripe pumpkins in >my garden last fall, in the area where I have now planted potatos. >I've got seedlings coming up EVERYWHERE, but I think they're mostly >pumpkin seedlings -- and I don't want to accidently yank out my >potato plantings. >Specifically, what are the distinguishers in >- shape of leaves >- number of leaves >- color difference, if any >- clustering, if any (the pumpkin seeds are coming up in singles) I think it will probably be easier to identify the pumpkins. They will all have a pair of (Dicodeledons???) false leaves that are oval shaped. The true leaves will emerge in-between the false leaves at a later date, and are shaped differently. These are your pumpkins. The potatoes will have leaves that are all the same (no false leaves). If I recall, the potatoe leaves are textured. Somebody jump in and correct me if my memory is failing. -David Robinson davidr@ee.pdx.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr Tue May 18 23:47:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17249 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr From: davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pollinating Indoor Tomatoes and Cucumbers Date: 17 May 1993 20:54:51 GMT Lines: 25 Message-ID: <1t8u2r$ehl@walt.ee.pdx.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: ursula.ee.pdx.edu stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) writes: > I have some Tumbler Hybrid and Orange Pixie (from Burpee) tomatoes >growing indoors, and I was wondering whether I need to do anything >special to make the fruits set. One of the plants flowered and set >fruit very early, while another one flowered profusely, but no fruits >seem to have set yet. Do I need to shake the flowers to pollinate them? Yes. Flick the flowers with your fingers. > My Little Leaf Cucumbers (from Park) are flowering nicely now. Do I >need to pollinate these manually as well? Yes.... but there are male and female flowers for cucumbers. Initially, you will probably only see male flowers (stem with a flower on the end). Later, the females will emerge (these are miniature cucumbers with a flower attached to the end). Many recommend taking pollen from the male flower with a Q-tip, and rubbing the female flower with it. I've always just picked the male flower off the vine, removed the petals, and used it to pollenate directly. -David Robinson davidr@ee.pdx.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr Tue May 18 23:47:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17250 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!ursula.ee.pdx.edu!davidr From: davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: My poor tomato plant Message-ID: <1t8uh7$elo@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 17 May 93 21:02:31 GMT Article-I.D.: walt.1t8uh7$elo References: Lines: 24 NNTP-Posting-Host: ursula.ee.pdx.edu jlawlor@ptdi12.intel.com (Jay Lawlor ~) writes: >Just wanted to share this with someone who might sympathize. >So tonight we were outside playing. I heard him clapping and saying >"yay!". I looked over and he had just scored two points with his >soccer ball right on top of a tomato plant in a cage. Go Micheal Jordan! >I think the plant could survive. The main stem was snapped half-way >up. There are other "branches" below the break but it seems that most >of the growth would normally be through the top and I don't want a >less than fully productive plant taking up any of the limited sunny >space in my yard. It will recover fine. A "sucker" will grow at the joint of one of the lower branches. This will become the "new" top. My bet would be that the current plant will be "quicker" to recover than a new one. Then again, maybe not. You could always plant a new one next to it, and chop off the looser in a couple of weeks! -David Robinson davidr@ee.pdx.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Tue May 18 23:47:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17251 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Curry Plant Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 21:11:03 GMT Message-ID: <24370@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 27 In response to: Bab Strauss: strauss@uncavx.unca.edu >I bought a plant this weekend, called a Curry plant. Smells just like >curry. I know, however, that curry does not use this plant. I forget the >scientific name, starts with an "H". >Does anyone know if it *is* edible? I don't think so: nothing with it to >indicate such. Apparently, it is a moth repellant. But wouldn't be worth >smelling like curry, in order to protect woolen sweaters. Not to me, >anyway. The curry plant is Helichrysum angustifolium. All the information that I have come across says that sprigs may be added to soups, stews, steamed vegetables, etc. to impart a mild curry flavour. The key here is the word "mild". This isn't a strongly aromatic plant. -Moira Carlson From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Tue May 18 23:47:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17252 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: POison Iva horror stories Message-ID: <1993May17.112100.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 17 May 93 11:21:00 MDT References: <1993May7.103716.1@uncavx.unca.edu> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 6 I've heard of people thinking that a good way to rid their yard or cottage of poison ivy is to burn it, then they make the big mistake of inhaling some of the smoke which contains the active oils, leading to a rather grim death from poison ivy inflammation in the lungs. Don't know if this is really truth or legend, but it's certainly the worst poison ivy horror story I've heard. From samba!concert!gatech!enterpoop.mit.edu!lard.ftp.com!elan.wco.ftp.com!rita Tue May 18 23:47:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17253 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!enterpoop.mit.edu!lard.ftp.com!elan.wco.ftp.com!rita From: rita@ftp.com (Rita Sarathy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Where can I get a curry plant? Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 14:13:32 Organization: FTP Software, North Andover, Massachusetts Lines: 23 Message-ID: <930517141332@elan.wco.ftp.com> Reply-To: rita@wco.ftp.com NNTP-Posting-Host: elan.wco.ftp.com Keywords: Curry plant NNTP-Software: PC/TCP NNTP Hello, I am a recent reader of this newsgroup. Sorry to bother you if this request has been posted before. I would like to know where I would be able to get a curry plant.The leaves of this plant is used in Indian cooking. I live in the bay area in San Jose CA. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Rita -- ---Rita Sarathy FTP Software Inc. rita@ftp.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Tue May 18 23:47:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17254 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Bouncing Bet Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 21:12:42 GMT Message-ID: <24371@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 26 In response to george_pearson.co@macmailgw.dfci.harvard.edu >Is anyone familiar with a plant called !Bouncing Bet!? I got a couple at >a neighborhood plant sale just to be adventurous! I was told that it >grows in the wild and has some kind of flower. I don!t know if it likes >lots of sun, is appropriate as a potted plant, needs lots of watering or >what. Any info that can be offerred is greatly appreciated. The plant most often called by the common name of "Bouncing Bet" is actually Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis). If your plant is Soapwort, it is a perennial, growing about 2 feet high. The flowers are white or pink and grow in clusters on the top of the stem. They have a sort of clove-pink scent, particularly noticeable on hot summer evenings. Cut back the flowers after blooming and it will probably bloom a second time for you. The plant likes either full sun or part shade and needs a fertile moist soil. I wouldn't try growing it in a container unless the container was pretty big. This plant has an interesting -and lengthy- herbal history, mainly because the leaf, stem and root when boiled produce a soapy sap which had been used for washing since the time of the Romans. (Which is why some other common names are "Lady's Washbowl" and "Latherwort"). Don't plant Saponaria anywhere near a fishpond as the root excretions can poison fish. -Moira Carlson From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 Tue May 18 23:47:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17255 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 From: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) Subject: Re: 2,4-D, dandelions & organic Message-ID: Sender: news@news.cis.umn.edu (Usenet News Administration) Nntp-Posting-Host: student.tc.umn.edu Organization: University of Minnesota References: Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 22:33:50 GMT Lines: 1 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 Tue May 18 23:47:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17256 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 From: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) Subject: Re: 2,4-D, dandelions & organic Message-ID: Sender: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: student.tc.umn.edu Organization: University of Minnesota References: Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 22:45:05 GMT Expires: Mon, 24 May 1993 05:00:00 GMT Lines: 10 Sorry I goofed and didn't save the previous article. I'll do it again. I wanted to follow up on the corn gluten meal that was mentioned. It will not be a broadleaf herbicide, but rather it will work like as a pre-emergent herbicide. The work is being done at Iowa State by my former advisor! Hopefully it will be out soon since the stuff really seems to work, at least in the initial studies. PJ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user Tue May 18 23:48:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17257 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user From: karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) Subject: Re: Soil for box garden? Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: NRL References: Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 23:29:49 GMT Lines: 53 In article , rlk@pelton.Rational.COM (Robert Kitzberger) wrote: > > We've just moved into a house (Zone 4, I think...). There are two > 5' x 8' x 1' boxed vegetable garden areas in the back yard (with > gopher screen underneath, and surrounded by a fence). The problem > is that the planters (is that the correct term?) have been neglected > for several years, and the soil is quite depleted, though at one time > it supposedly had a healthy organic compost / soil mixture. > > Questions: > > 1. What kind of soil mixture (top soil, compost, manure, etc.) should > I use to top off the planters? It's about 6-9 inches below the top of > the wood frame, so I'll probably need about 10-15 cubic feet per planter... > but we only have a few cubic feet of compost from our backyard composter. All of the above ;^>. Could use some peat moss, vermiculite, maybe some lime if you add alot of peat or similar acidy stuff. Sq Ft Gardening, for example, has recommendations for soil mixtures; i'm too lazy to look it up so i just aim for something that looks/feels right. Since your beds are already mostly filled, exact quantities shouldnt be too important. How is the drainage/exposure? Might want to consider adding water-retaining materials if you're in a dry, sunny area. > > 2. How high from the top of the wood frame should the soil be? Depends on your budget (for the added soil mix) and how much you like to mulch. A few inches ought to be OK for mulching, unless you use plastic or similar flat mulch (which wont need as much room as organic mulch, obviously). > > 3. What are the best watering methods for this type of veggie garden? I'd suggest looking into soaker hoses. They are relatively cheap and easy to find at hardware stores, plus you can bury the hose or just lay it on top and mulch over it. There's a brand called Moisture Master, for example, that you can cut and add couplings to suit your particular sites. It's alot better than watering from overhead, especially for disease prone plants! Plus having a buried or covered hose really cuts down on water waste. Hope this helps! > > Thanks!!! > > .Bob. > -- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Bob Kitzberger Internet: rlk@rational.com > Rational, Grass Valley, CA CompuServe: 70743,1550 > type Opinion is private; Judy Karpen "pushing back the frontiers of science" karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC USA From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user Tue May 18 23:48:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17258 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user From: karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) Subject: Azalea questions Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: NRL Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 23:41:55 GMT Lines: 28 OK, i know this is kind of late, but i just discovered that azaleas have really cool varieties (not just those boring magenta and candy pink varieties) and am coveting them big time! A friend in the area showed me her collection, some of which were striped and spotted and banded and altogether amazing. Unfortunately the only book she has with pictures is in Japanese --- not a language i can read --- and the specialty catalogues dont have pictures, just words. 1) Any recommendations for good books in English that can get me started on interesting varieties? 2) Recommendations for good nurseries in the East (the closer to Maryland the better)? It seems kind of silly to order all the way from e.g. Pasadena, when so many azaleas apparently were bred a few miles from my home (i.e., USDA and Takoma Park). But good mail order places in the East will be appreciated too, assuming i can find some decent pictures first...i dont like the idea of ordering flowering shrubs sight unseen. 3) Am i correct in assuming it's too late to plant azaleas here in Zone 7 (Maryland, between DC and Baltimore)? It's getting hot already, ugh. Would it be better to wait until fall, or are the plants generally available only in spring? Thanks very much for your help, as always! Judy Karpen "pushing back the frontiers of science" karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC USA From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!overload.lbl.gov!s1.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fastrac.llnl.gov!wsrcc.com!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Tue May 18 23:48:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17259 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!overload.lbl.gov!s1.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fastrac.llnl.gov!wsrcc.com!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Jabanero Pepper Plants Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <81364@cup.portal.com> <1t0v5vINNh16@hp-col.col.hp.com> Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 19:10:28 GMT Lines: 19 In article <1t0v5vINNh16@hp-col.col.hp.com> rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc) writes: >hassan@cup.portal.com (hassan monu alam) writes: >> Does anyone know where I can get Jabanero Pepper plants in the SF Bay >> area? > >You might try Habanero's, instead! :-) If you can't find any plants >locally, you can order seeds via mail from various seedsmen. I've purchased habanero seedlings from Common Ground in Palo Alto, on El Camino Real near California Avenue (between College and Cambridge). It's an interesting store in its own right; they also have a large variety of seeds, including many heirloom plants and unusual varieties. A good source of information as well as seeds and seedlings; look over their library while you're in there. --Scott From samba!concert!decwrl!adobe!kkolling Tue May 18 23:48:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17260 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!decwrl!adobe!kkolling From: kkolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: bamboo Message-ID: <1993May17.234907.15768@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: <1993May14.215008.18703@math.ucla.edu> Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 23:49:07 GMT Lines: 11 In article <1993May14.215008.18703@math.ucla.edu> ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: > >I suppose you might take up Chinese cooking and start >looking upon your plethora of bamboo shoots as a resource. >Find all the classic Chinese recipes using bamboo shoots. >Create new ones. Do any creatures other than humans >eat these things? If so, a pet (fill in animal name here). If >so, someone will be able to recommend a genus/species. Giant pandas, I believe ;-) From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!west.West.Sun.COM!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!ichthous!mcgrew Tue May 18 23:48:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17261 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!west.West.Sun.COM!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!ichthous!mcgrew From: mcgrew@ichthous.Eng.Sun.COM (Darin McGrew) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Radish sans bulb Date: 17 May 1993 22:11:34 GMT Organization: Sun Lines: 20 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: ichthous Yesterday my wife and I gave up on some of our radishes. Some of them were bolting without every having formed bulbs and some of them had lots of leaves but no bulbs. We had already harvested some, and a few others were worth harvesting. We needed the space for seedlings, so the bulbless radishes went into the garden waste pile for future composting. Why would a radish plant not grow a bulb, and even bolt without growing a bulb? Our garden is a partially-shaded container garden (the best we can do short of using a community plot ten minutes away), and we expected everything to grow more slowly because of the shade. Should we not bother with root crops until we have a garden with more sun? (Our carrots and beets are taking a long time too.) From what we've read, these veggies are supposed to tolerate shade. Darin.McGrew@Eng.Sun.COM The LORD said to him, "Who gave man his mouth? Who makes him deaf or dumb? Who gives him sight Soli Deo Gloria! or makes him blind? Is it not I, the LORD?" From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!sde.hp.com!lisa Tue May 18 23:48:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17262 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!sde.hp.com!lisa From: lisa@fc.sde.hp.com (Lisa Stroyan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: gardinia Date: 18 May 1993 00:33:47 GMT Organization: HP SESD, Fort Collins, CO Lines: 19 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1t9atb$eql@hpfcbig.sde.hp.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: hpfclisa.sde.hp.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9.4] Hildegard Schneider (hsg7260@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu) wrote: : I recently received a gardienia with one bloom and several : buds. The leaves have since become less shiney and some have : brown spots...I am wondering what kind of care/conditions these : plants need in general, and what to do about the leaves... Gardenias apparently need a lot of water. I don't think it is possible to drown them. Here in Colorado, my mother and sister-in-law have had great success by putting them in a pot that can be bottom-watered, and then putting that pot in a deep "tray" that is *always* kept full of water. Ie, you have the whole pot sitting in about 1-2" of water, full time. The gardenias here need the water refilled every few days - they drink a lot (but it is very dry here). Treating these like normal plants (which will rot if left in water) may be one reason that the leaves are dropping. Just my experience, Lisa From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!sde.hp.com!lisa Tue May 18 23:48:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17263 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!sde.hp.com!lisa From: lisa@fc.sde.hp.com (Lisa Stroyan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Buying Venus Fly Traps Date: 18 May 1993 00:39:24 GMT Organization: HP SESD, Fort Collins, CO Lines: 16 Message-ID: <1t9b7s$eql@hpfcbig.sde.hp.com> References: <1993May13.021649.19397@bsu-ucs> NNTP-Posting-Host: hpfclisa.sde.hp.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9.4] 00drcarroll@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu wrote: This is kind of off the subject but... : Can somebody give me the number of a place I can order some venus flyy : traps and other carnivorous plants. I ordered some from the Michigan Bulb Co. : long ago, but I have long since lost their number. Any help much appreciated! I seem to remember seeing postings from various people about bad impressions of Michigan Bulb Co a while back. Your message confirms this... Just thought others might want to be warned away from this company. (Someone correct me if I am thinking of the wrong company...). Lisa From samba!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf Tue May 18 23:48:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17264 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf From: adamf@hopper.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: drying garlic Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: ITC/UVA Community Access UNIX/Internet Project References: Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 00:44:55 GMT Lines: 18 In article psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) writes: > >I'm growing a lot of garlic this year and would like to hear the >opinion of experienced growers on the topic of drying the bulbs. > >I'm most interested in time recommended and location. In particular, >how do you feel about sun exposure once harvested (eg: A-frame >drying. I heard of someone who did this, but I can't help but think >it would be excessive). > Dry your garlic in a dry, airy, DARK place - like inside an old barn. Give each plant space so it isn't touching any other. DO NOT dry garlic in the sun unless you want to ruin it. I have used both methods and the sun method makes a real mess. Three weeks to one month in the drying area is sufficient. Adam adamf@virginia.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!csus.edu!netcom.com!rah Tue May 18 23:48:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17265 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!csus.edu!netcom.com!rah From: rah@netcom.com (Richard Hyde) Subject: Re: Bee in shed. It won`t leave and its trying to build a nest. Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] References: <127136@netnews.upenn.edu> Distribution: usa Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 02:38:33 GMT Lines: 20 Anthony Olejnik (tony@scotty.dccs.upenn.edu) wrote: : For the last week a (single ?) bee has been trying to build what : looks like the beginning of a hive/nest on the inside of the roof : of my small shed out back. : I`ve knocked it down a few times. Each day, the bee is back rebuilding : in the same spot. It doesn't sound like a bee to me, more like a paper wasp or perhaps a mud dauber. I'd nuke it. :-) -r -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ | Richard Hyde | RaH@netcom.com | This space intentionally left blank | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson Tue May 18 23:48:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17266 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Speaking of Pumpkins... Message-ID: <83.2bf743e7@axolotl> Date: 16 May 93 13:49:03 CST Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City Sender: news@axolotl.omahug.org (UUscan 1.10) Followup-To: rec.gardens Lines: 21 Apologies to the net, but because of bounced-mail, the following's for davidr@ee.pdx.edu (David Robinson) about DILL'S ATLANTIC GIANT pumpkins. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- In a message of 12 MAY 93 you write: > >The following mail-order source sells seeds of "giant" pumpkins. > > DILL'S ATLANTIC GIANT [CAT - FREE] > > 400 College Road > > Windsor, NS, Canada B0N 2T0 > Bob- > > Do you have a phone number for this place? Also, what size of a > pumpkin do they advertise? Sorry, the number for DILL'S ATLANTIC GIANT is (902) 798-2728. He began by advertising a 400-pounder & developed it to a 600+ pounder. The current world record holder of 800+ pounds was grown from one of Dill's seeds. Bob bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!wsrcc.com!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!panix!tlp Tue May 18 23:48:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17267 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!wsrcc.com!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!panix!tlp From: tlp@panix.com (Tracy Pendergast) Subject: HELP: Plants growing white and wilting Message-ID: Organization: PANIX Public Access Unix, NYC Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 02:10:23 GMT Lines: 21 Hi folks, (novice gardner alert!) I planted my seeds and watched them sprout. So far so good. I transplanted them into window boxes. Again, so far so good. AND THEN... they started to turn white and wilt. At first I thought it might be the plant food I fed them (I know, I know, -- I learned the hard way on that one). Then I thought it might be too much water... But time seems to be running out on me, they were such good seedlings! Any hints, tips, suggestions welcome! Thanks, --tl From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!charnel!rat!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Tue May 18 23:48:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17268 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!charnel!rat!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Curry #2 Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 05:26:38 GMT Message-ID: <24391@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 22 In response to: rita@ftp.com >I would like to know where I would be able to get a curry >plant.The leaves of this plant is used in Indian cooking. >I live in the bay area in San Jose CA. I have no idea where in your area you could get a "curry plant" so I can't help with that, but just to avoid confusion please note: 1. The word "curry" is used to describe a mixture of spices. Many Indian families have their own blends and the mixture may be anything from 5 to 25 different spices. Commonly used ingredients are tumeric, coriander, chilies, fenugreek,cardamom, nutmeg, etc. 2. There is a "curry leaf" used in Southern Indian cooking and in Madras Curry Powder. These leaves come from a small tree indigenous to the lower slopes of the Himalayas. Botanically it is called Chalcas koenigii or Murraya koenigii. 3. There is a curry plant, botanically Helichrysum angustifolium. The sprigs have a very mild curry aroma and flavour, but I don't think that they are used in Indian cooking at all. Hope this helps. -Moira Carlson From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Tue May 18 23:48:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17269 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: hybrid tea roses in containers? Message-ID: <1993May17.213521.1368@calmasd.prime.com> Date: 18 May 93 05:35:21 GMT References: <1993May12.092151.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> <1993May12.234328.25209@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Organization: - Lines: 26 In article <1993May12.234328.25209@casbs.Stanford.EDU>, kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) writes: > In article <1993May12.092151.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu writes: > >> I get all excited when I get gardening catalogs and I got one the >>other day full of roses. I don't know much about raising hybrid tea roses >>but I'd like to raise some in containers on my patio. Is this a difficult >>chore and what are some things I should consider? > > Roses do fine in LARGE containers (half a wine barrel is a good size) > as long as you don't let them get completely dry. Put them in rich > soil in a sunny spot, feed with a good rose food about every 6 weeks, > and check every day to see if they need water. In hot weather they > will probably need some every day. If you're in a hard winter > climate, you might want to put the tub on one of those little wheeled > platforms that make it easy to bring inside in the winter. It will be > very heavy. Get a good rose book from the library to learn about > spraying and pruning. > In addition to what Kathleen said, try adding the gel crystals to the soil. This will let you go longer between waterings. Also, you can avoid most of the spraying ritual if you buy disease resistant varieties, grow in as much sun as possible, and use a systemic insecticide. Jim From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Tue May 18 23:48:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17270 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: outrageously fragrant roses... Message-ID: <1993May17.213857.1369@calmasd.prime.com> Date: 18 May 93 05:38:57 GMT References: Organization: - Lines: 22 In article , karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) writes: > In article fzbaker@dale.ucdavis.edu (Sharon D. Baker) writes: >>Mr. Lincoln is a beautiful red rose, and it is deliciously fragrant. >>-- >>Sharon D. Baker >>sdbaker@ucdavis.edu >>(916) 752-9946 >> > > Is it a dark, dark red? Strong, strong smelling, like an old-lady's > parlor (and maybe she just tipped some sherry into the aspidistra, > because she heard you coming?) My house came with many roses, and > the neighbors describe the former gardener as a fanatic rose > collector, but there were only a couple of the little tags left. > I've given up on trying to *really* identify them, I just want > to be able to say "kind of like a Mr. Lincoln", if it is! Karen, try checking out the roses at the San Jose Rose garden. It used to have them all and they were well labled. You have a pretty good chance of being able to match your roses there. Jim From samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Tue May 18 23:48:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17271 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 17 May 93 10:13 PDT Subject: Re: curry plant? Message-ID: <1453300190@igc.apc.org> References: <1993May17.083747.1@uncavx.unca.e> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1993May17.083747.1@uncavx.unca.e:-1819698652:cdp:1453300190:000:147 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 17 10:13:00 1993 Lines: 5 Old wives say it isn't edible, but Indians say it is. So yse it to flavor what- ever you want...including salad dressing or chicken swabbing mix. From samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Tue May 18 23:48:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17272 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 17 May 93 10:18 PDT Subject: Re: Wild Violets Message-ID: <1453300191@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:C769DM.LnE@freenet.carleton.ca:-1375815849:cdp:1453300191:000:538 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 17 10:18:00 1993 Lines: 13 Not only that, but both the flowers and the leaves are edible. The leaves have lots of vitamins and even taste good. If you insist on getting rid of them, either pull them up (and eat them) or use Round up brushed on the leaves. If they are just taking over your universe, but you'd like to keep some of them, check out the area near the mature plants for seedlings in the spring. They do self-seed like mad things. Pull out the babies and drop them so they can rot and feed the soil or plant them where you'd like a new patch. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Tue May 18 23:48:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17273 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 17 May 93 10:30 PDT Subject: Re: Bee in shed. It won`t leave and it Message-ID: <1453300193@igc.apc.org> References: <127136@netnews.upenn.edu> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:netnews.upenn.edu:127136:cdp:1453300193:000:199 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 17 10:30:00 1993 Lines: 3 I've never actually heard of a single bee building a nest; although there are solitary bees like blue bees and others. If you don't want it, kill it. It probably won't hurt your karma all that much. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Tue May 18 23:48:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17274 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 17 May 93 10:45 PDT Subject: Re: info beekeeping? Message-ID: <1453300196@igc.apc.org> References: <1993May12.200950.5445@almserv.uu> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1993May12.200950.5445@almserv.uu:-1594489431:cdp:1453300196:000:286 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 17 10:45:00 1993 Lines: 9 Penn State Coop Extension publishes a newsletter called Bee Aware on-line over Pen Pages and in hard copy. Pen Pages also carries a beekeeping newsletter from U of Florida. If You're in NY, contact Cornell Cop Extension, If you're at Penn, call PSU Coop Extension at 560-4150. Libby From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Tue May 18 23:48:24 EDT 1993 Article: 17275 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 17 May 93 10:49 PDT Subject: Re: potato bugs Message-ID: <1453300197@igc.apc.org> References: <1993May13.223027.4107@tc.fluke.c> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1993May13.223027.4107@tc.fluke.c:-1277156241:cdp:1453300197:000:270 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 17 10:49:00 1993 Lines: 6 Well, the good news is that you don't have potato bugs. You have sow bugs. They eat organic matter and occasionally roots. They love damp places. They look worse than they act. If you really hate them, try Sevin or call your friendly neighblorhood exterminator. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Tue May 18 23:48:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17276 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 17 May 93 10:35 PDT Subject: Re: drying garlic Message-ID: <1453300194@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:psmith.737646574@cunews:428485151:cdp:1453300194:000:553 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 17 10:35:00 1993 Lines: 13 I just spread mine on a shelf in the kitchen which is dehumidified and cooled by my house air conditioner. They don't need sun. Once the tops have dried, I remove them and put the garlic in the hydrator of the fridge with my other onions shallots and stuff. Before the tops have totally dried you can braid them and then hang the braids. It sort of all depends on how much garlic you have. If you have a lot, try spreading it on old screens (out of the sun) outdoors, but if your nights are damp, bring it all in to keep it from getting moldy. Libby From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Tue May 18 23:48:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17277 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 17 May 93 10:10 PDT Subject: Re: Pollinating Indoor Tomatoes and Cuc Message-ID: <1453300189@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:STNGIAM.93May16162905@marinara.m:-397070742:cdp:1453300189:000:601 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 17 10:10:00 1993 Lines: 8 Re your tomatoes: tapping the plants gently and rapidly will usually cause the pollen to fall from anthers to pistils. I don't know about Little Leaf indoors, but it will very likely need hand pollination. Do it in the morning before 11am. Don't bother with male flowers, the ones that don't have a tiny cucumber just behind the flower. Only the females, which usually set later than the males will set fruit no matter what you do to them. Just use your finger or a soft brush on the females and brush pollen onto the pistil. Or you could try hitting them too even tho they're used to bees not wind. From samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Tue May 18 23:48:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17278 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 17 May 93 10:25 PDT Subject: Re: Where to buy dwarf apple trees? Message-ID: <1453300192@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:moskal.737649456@merle:-1677841291:cdp:1453300192:000:451 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 17 10:25:00 1993 Lines: 15 For a start try Stark Bros. 1-800-325-4180 Louisiana, MO 63353-0010 Miller Nurseries 1-800-828-9630 Canandaigua NY 14424 Personally, it seems to me that if one is a home gardener, one really ought to think about growing stuff that's less easily bought in the market than apples. Like white nectarines (Miller) or Green Gage plums or sour cherries for pies and jams. But then I'm prejudiced. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Tue May 18 23:48:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17279 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 17 May 93 10:39 PDT Subject: Re: Bouncing Bet Message-ID: <1453300195@igc.apc.org> References: <1t8b1qINNnc@early-bird.think.com> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1t8b1qINNnc@early-bird.think.com:815434132:cdp:1453300195:000:280 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 17 10:39:00 1993 Lines: 6 It's a perennial Saponaria and has pretty pink flowers in early summer. After that it just sits there (unless you want to use it like soap). It likes full sun, but I should think it would be a boring pot plant most of the year. It does like water, but isn't too demanding. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.bbn.com!olivea!uunet!tarpit!tous!jwt!hrick Tue May 18 23:48:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17280 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.bbn.com!olivea!uunet!tarpit!tous!jwt!hrick From: bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org (Rick Harrison) Subject: Re: Radish sans bulb Reply-To: bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org Organization: The Matrix Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 07:38:11 GMT Message-ID: References: Sender: bbs@jwt.UUCP Lines: 10 mcgrew@ichthous.Eng.Sun.COM (Darin McGrew) writes: > Yesterday my wife and I gave up on some of our radishes. Some of > them were bolting without every having formed bulbs and some of > them had lots of leaves but no bulbs. We had already harvested In the future, I suggest that you try daikon radishes. Also make sure you are planting the seeds deep enough; I think they should be planted 4 times their diameter deep. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!bonni Tue May 18 23:48:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17281 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!bonni From: bonni@cray.com (Bonni Ensminger) Subject: Re: Q: pepper seedlings Message-ID: <1993May18.053503.18639@walter.cray.com> Originator: bonni@gath Lines: 26 Sender: bonni@gath (Bonni Ensminger) Nntp-Posting-Host: gath.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Date: 18 May 93 05:35:02 CDT In article , sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes: > > > How interesting! ALso, of course, is the simple solution -- lack of > magnesium and calcium in the soil, which also leads to weak cell > walls (though the usual symptom of this is curled leaves because the > cells can't keep up with growth). Dolomite lime is the recommended > fix. > > Does this hold true for most types of plants? I have a grapefruit tree in a pot that frequently has curled leaves. They look like someone pulled the center vein so it's shorter than the rest of the leaf, leaving in curled and crinkled. Thanks Bonni > > -- Have a great day!! From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!bonni Tue May 18 23:48:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17282 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!bonni From: bonni@gath.cray.com (Bonni Ensminger) Subject: Re: Advice on Turf Laying Message-ID: <1993May18.053911.18702@walter.cray.com> Originator: bonni@gath Lines: 27 Sender: bonni@gath (Bonni Ensminger) Nntp-Posting-Host: gath.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993May7.084941.6157@visionware.co.uk> Date: 18 May 93 05:39:10 CDT In article <1993May7.084941.6157@visionware.co.uk>, simon@visionware.co.uk (Simon Taylor) writes: > > > I am planning to lay some turf (about 15 square yards) next week > this is something of which I have no previous experience so I would > be interested to hear from anyone who has any advice or hints > on this type of activity. > > In particular, what sort of preparation does the underlying soil > require and any advice on ensuring the new turf is flat. > > Thanks in advance > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- My husband and I recently took a landscape class from a professional horticulturist. He couldn't seem to stress enough that the most important thing you can do for a land is till it first. He told us that at least 15 times in each of our 3 days in class. Bonni -- Have a great day!! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!newshub.nosc.mil!nosc!pages!kevin Tue May 18 23:48:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17283 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!newshub.nosc.mil!nosc!pages!kevin From: kevin@pages.com (Kevin Sven Berg) Subject: Re: wild bamboo problem Message-ID: <1993May18.084942.3644@pages.com> Sender: kevin@pages.com Organization: Pages Software Inc. References: <1993May14.4198.12985@dosgate> Distribution: rec Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 08:49:42 GMT Lines: 25 In article <1993May14.4198.12985@dosgate> "david hall" writes: > My neighbor has some wild bamboo growing along my fence line. > The roots have spread and I now have bamboo shoots sprouting up in my > back yard. > Is there any way to kill this plant? Or to stop it from > spreading? Kill it? I imagine copper nails might come close (we finally had to poison a locust tree this way -- very effective). More "humane"? ... You can stop it from spreading by cutting new bamboo runner shoots with a cable/chain cutter. It will take several checks a year. A friend has used this technique to control his (most excellent) bamboo landscaping for over 15 years. regards, Kevin -- Kevin Sven Berg / / / / P / a / g / e / s kevin@pages.com / / / / / / / / Pages Software Inc. / / / / / / / / San Diego, CA. . . . . . . . . From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!2712s Tue May 18 23:48:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17284 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!2712s From: 2712s@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jennifer Murnane) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: SLUG PELLETS Message-ID: <35982@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 18 May 93 11:54:50 GMT Reply-To: 2712s@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jenn Murnane Distribution: usa Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 19 Help! I have been ease dropping on this newsgroup for about 3 weeks now and have been interested in the slug remedies. I read that slugs like yeast so I tried the beer remedy. This worked but it is an expensive fix-it. So I went to my local garden center and they suggested Ortho Slug Pellets. I scattered the pellets around my half eaten plants and WOW this morning I have "slug globs" everywhere. There were about a dozen of those slimy things feasting on the pellets. Question #1 Do the slugs die after feasting on the pellets? Question #2 Or do they just draw out the critters so I can toss them away? Question #3 What is that glob of stuff around the pellets? Are they disintegrating? Please, if anyone can answer these questions I would be most grateful. Jenn From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!billg.agn.uiuc.edu!dlee Tue May 18 23:48:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17285 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!billg.agn.uiuc.edu!dlee From: dlee@UIUC Subject: "PREEN" for weed control Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 13:27:10 GMT Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Keywords: weeds, herbicides, control Organization: Department of Agronomy Lines: 9 Does anyone out there have experience using a weed control product called " PREEN" in their vegetable gardens? It's supposed to work by preventing germination of weed seeds. It gets applied to a well-tilled garden after vegetable transplants (or seedlings) are 3-4 inches tall. Any comments would be most appreciated. Either post or email to me at debbiel@ccmail.agn.uiuc.edu Many thanks! From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!decwrl!pa.dec.com!e2big.mko.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!dssdev.enet.dec.com!rust Tue May 18 23:48:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17286 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!decwrl!pa.dec.com!e2big.mko.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!dssdev.enet.dec.com!rust From: rust@dssdev.enet.dec.com (Elizabeth Rust) Subject: Re: Starting Veggies: Best Place? Message-ID: <1993May18.132220.4672@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> Sender: usenet@nntpd.lkg.dec.com (USENET News System) Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation References: <1993May17.185656.15826@berlioz.nsc.com> Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 14:17:13 GMT Lines: 39 In article <1993May17.185656.15826@berlioz.nsc.com>, betz@pinecrest.nsc.com writes... >I planted my first veggie garden last week and everything except my >carrots, corriander, and basil is coming up. Each of these seeds were ... Carrots and basil can take quite a while to germinate; give 'em another week or two. (Don't remember whether coriander's quick or slow to germinate.) You _can_ start carrots and basil and such indoors; the advantages are that it's easier to control the moisture and temperature, and if you use (as you should) a sterile potting mix, you can be sure that anything that _does_ come up is one of your seeds, not a weed. However, carrots have to be transplanted quite early (and very carefully) if you don't want to damage the root, and little-tiny-transplants are almost as sensitive to fluctuations in moisture and temperature as newly- germinated seeds, so it may not be worth the trouble. I've had fairly good luck with direct-sowing carrots, but I usually mix the seeds with radishes or something else quick-sprouting, so that I can see where the seeded area is. When I wanted lots of basil plants, I started them indoors; they're warm-weather plants, and take a while to get going, and I wanted a head start. I _have_ direct- seeded them in the past, with semi-satisfactory results - they grew, but slowly, and didn't provide as much of a harvest as I'd have liked. In general, for teensy seeds, it helps if you can mix them with a very light soilless mix or some other medium that will (a) help distribute them so they don't clump together [memories of trying to thin out lobelia seedlings, which had germinated at dozens to the square inch], and (b) cover the seeds without crusting over. If you do this outside, you will need to shelter the area to prevent runoff, esp. if it's on a slope or subject to heavy rains [or an over-enthusiastic sprinkler]; perhaps placing a wire mesh [a spare window- or door-screen might do] over it would be enough to break up any heavy downpours. *** Beth Rust Digital Equipment Corp. Nashua, NH rust@dssdev.enet.dec.com From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!hardy.u.washington.edu!lamantia Tue May 18 23:48:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17287 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!hardy.u.washington.edu!lamantia From: lamantia@hardy.u.washington.edu (Stephen Lamantia) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Sphagnum Moss vs. Peat Moss Date: 18 May 1993 13:41:11 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 17 Distribution: na Message-ID: <1tap1nINNffk@news.u.washington.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: hardy.u.washington.edu I have a clay soil. To condition it, I plan to add some manure, gypsum, and peat moss. My question here is about the peat moss. The peat moss I bought says on the bag "Canadian sphagnum peat moss," and the nursery folks said it'd be okay. However, a book I have (Ortho's "Gardening Techniques") says: "Sphagnum moss is sometimes confused with peat moss; it is dried, but not decomposed, moss. Sphagnum moss is used as a packing material, for making hanging baskets, and to cover the surface of pots; but it is not used as a soil amendment." So, before I add this in to the soil, I better ask the net: do I have the wrong stuff? The nursery I bought it at says this is the only kind of peat moss they carry; are they wrong, or is the book splitting hairs? From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Tue May 18 23:48:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17288 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Corn Gluten (was Re: 2,4-D, dandelions & organic) Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 13:44:06 GMT Lines: 14 In john0130@student.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) writes: >Sorry I goofed and didn't save the previous article. I'll do it again. >I wanted to follow up on the corn gluten meal that was mentioned. It will >not be a broadleaf herbicide, but rather it will work like as a >pre-emergent herbicide. The work is being done at Iowa State by my former >advisor! Hopefully it will be out soon since the stuff really seems to >work, at least in the initial studies. Can you explain in a bit more detail how it would work and what differentiates it from conventional pre-emergent herbicides? Thanks From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!walter!thumper!dfw Tue May 18 23:48:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17289 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!walter!thumper!dfw From: dfw@thumper..bellcore.com (Doris Woods) Subject: Bugs on my herbs was(Re: How do I kill Aphids) Message-ID: <1993May18.133633.8585@walter.bellcore.com> Summary: Need help nontoxic Keywords: Herbs Bugs Nontoxic solution Sender: news@walter.bellcore.com Nntp-Posting-Host: thumper.bellcore.com Reply-To: dfw@thumper.UUCP (Doris Woods) Organization: Bellcore MRE References: <1somq5INNk10@hp-col.col.hp.com> Date: Tue, 18 May 93 13:36:33 GMT Lines: 19 2 of my herbal plants in my kitchen have developed bugs. They're very small almost beige in color kind of look like aphids but smaller. The 2 plants are Chervil and Fennel. The Fennel is just a seedling. I was going to transplant it this weekend but I don't want the bugs spreading to my other herbs. I tried a mild solution of dishwashing liquid and water as was suggested in a book about herbs but it didn't work. Is there anything nontoxic that I can use so that these plants can be saved? The rest of the herbs are Rosemary, Sweet Bay, Lavender, Oregano, Marjoram, Basil and thyme. The don't seem to show signs of the pests. Are they more resistant or am I just lucky they haven't spread? Thanks Doris dfw@thumper.bellcore.com From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!digex.com!digex.net!not-for-mail Tue May 18 23:48:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17290 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!digex.com!digex.net!not-for-mail From: lah@access.digex.net (Larry Hite) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Snake question Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 18 May 1993 10:05:45 -0400 Organization: Express Access Online Communications, Greenbelt, MD USA Lines: 50 Sender: lah@digex.net Distribution: world Message-ID: <1taqfp$h4u@access.digex.net> References: <1srdps$8vr@walt.ee.pdx.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: access.digex.net In article <1srdps$8vr@walt.ee.pdx.edu> davidr@flotsam.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) writes: >ac388@freenet.hsc.colorado.edu (Jack Decker) writes: > ... >>I live in western Michigan, so I wonder if anyone could give me a clue >>as to what sort of snake this was, and whether it's really dangerous? > >First the dangerous part: There are only 4 type of poisonous >snakes that are indigious to the US: ^^^^^^^^^ >rattler >coral snake >copperhead >Water Moccasin > >All of these, with exception to the coral snake have large heads >(sort of triangular). Since you state it has a small head (And >its not a coral snake which has a red-yellow-black color patter), >then it is not dangerous. Your cat is too big to get hurt by it, >as are you! A snake will run away from anything large unless it >feels cornered... and even if you were to get bit, it wouldn't be >any big deal. > This information is correct as far as it goes, however it does not take into account the possibility that the snake has escaped from a collector or zoo. If this is the case and if the snake is poisonous, it could be far more dangerous than any of the aforementioned snakes, primarily because hospitals across the United States are not likely to carry antivenins to the venoms of such snakes. What is commonly used in the U.S. is an antivenin produced against a mixture of North American crotalid snakes (the rattlesnakes, copperheads, and moccasins), primarily because 99% of the approximately 8000 cases of snakebite per year are from such snakes. The remaining 1% of snakebite cases is from a combination of coral snakes and "exotic" snakes (those held by or escaped from zoos and collectors)*. Coral snakes are generally more secretive and have small mouths and less well-developed fangs, so the incidence of bites by them is much lower. It is because of the possibility of encountering an "exotic" snake that you should always be extremely cautious when dealing with snakes you are unable to identify. Larry Hite lah@digex.net Note: Statistics cited are from 1982. *Source: Abramowicz (1982) Med. Let. Drugs Ther. 24, 87-90. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!gvls1!martha Tue May 18 23:48:40 EDT 1993 Article: 17291 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!gvls1!martha From: martha@VFL.Paramax.COM (Martha Sherman) Subject: American Rose Society Message-ID: <1993May18.143406.2118@VFL.Paramax.COM> Sender: news@VFL.Paramax.COM (IEE news user) Nntp-Posting-Host: gvlf8-o Organization: Paramax Systems Corporation (A Unisys Company) Distribution: usa Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 14:34:06 GMT Lines: 17 Hi, I was wondering if anyone had any information about the American Rose Society. For instance, is it worth joining? What are the benefits? I'm considering buying my father a membership for Father's Day, but don't want to get the membership if it is just a waste. My dad is a backyard rose gardener. Thanks for your help! -- Martha H. Sherman -------------------------------------------------------------------------- I speak only for myself, and sometimes I even wonder about that... -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!uvaarpa!software.org!trinh Tue May 18 23:48:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17292 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!uvaarpa!software.org!trinh From: trinh@software.org (Donna Trinh) Subject: How to get rid of wild onions? Message-ID: <1993May18.143124.20292@software.org> Sender: usenet@software.org (Usenet News/Mail Support) Organization: Software Productivity Consortium, Herndon, Virginia Distribution: usa Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 14:31:24 GMT Lines: 10 Every year, I see lots of wild onions in my flower beds. I tried to pull them out by hand and dig them out with a spade but this is too tiresome and time-consuming. They grow faster than I can pull them! Is there a simple way to get rid of them? Is there a herbercide for wild onions? I sprayed Round-up but this did not seem to be effective because wild onion has no leaves.Please help! --Donna Trinh trinh@software.org From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!psuvax1!psuvm!umab!mmcdanie Tue May 18 23:48:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17293 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!psuvax1!psuvm!umab!mmcdanie Organization: University of Maryland at Baltimore Date: Tuesday, 18 May 1993 11:12:38 EST From: Molly McDaniel Message-ID: <93138.111238MMCDANIE@UMAB.BITNET> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: is my dogwood sick or just resting? Distribution: world References: Lines: 9 Our dogwood is also looking ill. We planted it last year, it bloomed, but this year we have little buds that never opened to real blooms. We've fertilized, but seems to make no difference. So I have the same question as the other dogwood post -- is it sick or resting? Is there anything we can do? It's a pink dogwood, about 6 feet tall. We got another dogwood at the same time, a white one planted on the other side of the house, and it bloomed 3 weeks ago. Thanks. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!opl.com!psinntp!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!jareed Tue May 18 23:48:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17294 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!opl.com!psinntp!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!jareed From: jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: sand cherry wilts and dies Message-ID: <1993May18.091342.10265@newstand.syr.edu> Date: 18 May 93 13:13:41 GMT Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY Lines: 16 I have a cherry bush, "Hansens", I think it was, a "sand" cherry. Used to have two, but the other one got so bad we dug it up last year. Now this year this one started out well, but is dying. Here are the symptoms: Starts out fine in spring - leafs out, flowers. Then, about now, entire stem sections wilt suddenly, and dry out and die. No sign of insects or anything I can see. Wilt continues to spread, till big sections of the bush are dead. Has anyone else seen this? Better yet, any solutions? Judith Reed jareed@syr.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!opl.com!psinntp!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!jareed Tue May 18 23:48:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17295 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!opl.com!psinntp!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!jareed From: jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Herb FAQ underway,accepting contributions. Message-ID: <1993May18.091837.10332@newstand.syr.edu> Date: 18 May 93 13:18:37 GMT References: <1993May18.091342.10265@newstand.syr.edu> Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY Lines: 15 The herb FAQ is underway, I'll post first revision soon. I have saved contributions from about a year ago up thru now, including a wonderful list of common and botanical names, lots of stuff on sages, drying herbs, cilantro, and extracting oils. I'd like some contributions from those of you who have answers for what you perceive as common questions about herbs, particularly things that are not in the above catagories. Please email me if possible, as this will all be posted soon. Thanks! Judith Reed judith@suhep.phy.syr.edu (preferred) jareed@syr.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!van-bc!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a2915 Tue May 18 23:48:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17296 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!van-bc!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a2915 From: Christine_Code@mindlink.bc.ca (Christine Code) Subject: Re: Sphagnum Moss vs. Peat Moss Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 16:45:56 GMT Message-ID: <24413@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 40 Dear Stephen, Ha ha ha ha ha! I laughed so hard when I read your spagnum/vs peat moss posting, because I'm in the very same spot as you are. I also have clay soil, and a giant bale of "Canadian spagnum peat moss." The people at the garden center sold it to me as peat moss, but my mom (who knows more about gardens than I do) took one look at the bag and told me that I bought the wrong kind: "Spaghnum moss won't do!" she said. So I'm so glad that I'm not the only one wondering what kind of moss is underneath all that plastic. :) I've come to believe that "Canadian Spaghnum" is the brand name, and that peat moss is in the bag. The peat moss I'm using now is almost used up, so I'm almost ready to open the Canadian Spaghnum Peat Moss bag and find out what's inside. Have you ever seen a moss-lined hanging basket? If not, stop by your garden center and look at one. THAT moss is spaghnum moss. Peat moss looks different - like sawdust, almost - very fine stuff, (once you de-compact it) ready to blow away with the wind if you don't work it into the soil. So I (and you) will know what kind of moss we have once the bags are opened. I'm betting on peat moss. How 'bout you? Thanks so much for your posting. It was an immense comic relief to see that I'm not the only one wondering about this brand of moss! Best wishes for a perfect garden. ...Christine P.S. Let me know what you find when you open it up! -- ========================================================================== Christine Code * * Those who can, garden. Vancouver, B.C, CANADA * And those who garden, can. Christine_Code@MindLink.bc.ca * ========================================================================== From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!natinst.com!news.dell.com!pmafire!mica-nsf.inel.gov!kkv Tue May 18 23:48:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17297 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!natinst.com!news.dell.com!pmafire!mica-nsf.inel.gov!kkv From: kkv@inel.gov (Jamie J Ferguson) Subject: Re: Curry #2 Message-ID: <1993May18.164612.24898@inel.gov> Organization: Idaho National Engineering Laboratory, Idaho Falls, Idaho References: <24391@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Tue, 18 May 93 16:46:12 GMT Lines: 21 >3. There is a curry plant, botanically Helichrysum angustifolium. The sprigs >have a very mild curry aroma and flavour, but I don't think that they are >used in Indian cooking at all. A friend of mine has a picture of a curry plant in an Indian cooking book -- she used to show it to people as proof that such a plant actually existed! Evidently it can be used in Indian cooking but the flavor is very mild. I don't know if I'll use mine in cooking -- they don't have much of a taste, although the smell is nice. I recently bought a book by Sunset or Ortho on herbs that listed the curry plant, but I'd have to go back and see what they say to use it for. If anyone is looking for this plant it seems to be pretty popular this year. I've seen it in several different places around town. Jamie --- The views and opinions expressed herein are personal and are not necessarily those of the United States Government or any of its agencies or contractors. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Tue May 18 23:48:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17298 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Black Widows in Ontario? Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 17:11:04 GMT Lines: 22 All the talk about poisonous snakes has reminded me of a question that has nagged me everytime I see an unusual (irregular) spider web in the garden or yard. I have heard that black widow spiders are indiginous to Ontario, yet I have never seen one in all my hiking, nor have I met someone who has seen one in Ontario. Nonetheless, a pet shop owner told me that the reason they are not sold in Ontario is due to their indiginous habit in the province. I have also heard 3rd hand mentions of them. I have heard first hand stories of encounters (bites and sightings) in British Columbia, but I'd like to hear of such "first hand" in Ontario. Failing that, how about places right along the border in, say, New York or Michigan. I would also appreciate hearing about where to find the brown recluse spider. I know they exist locally, but would like to know where to look for them (eg: dark, damp places?). Thanks in advance! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm Tue May 18 23:48:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17299 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm From: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (Tom Dugan) Subject: Re: Sphagnum Moss vs. Peat Moss Message-ID: Keywords: Sphagnum, peat, moss Sender: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (SSGM) Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC References: <24413@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 17:59:17 GMT Lines: 23 Re: Peat moss, sphagnum moss, and sphagnum peat: it is pretty confusing, isn't it? A quick look in the Webster New World Dictionary confirmed what I suspected: And here I quote: PEAT n. [ ME pete < ML peta, piece of turf,prob. < Celt. ] 1) partly decayed, moisture-absorbing plant matter found in ancient bogs and swamps, used as a plant covering or fuel 2) a dried block of this used as fuel PEAT MOSS 1) any moss which forms peat, esp. sphagnum 2) any peat composed of residues of mosses, used chiefly as mulch 3) [Brit. Dial.] a peat bog end quote. In summary, peat moss is partially decayed sphagnum and is the type to use as a soil amendment. Plain ol' sphagnum moss is the stuff used as a moisure- retainer, esp. in hanging baskets. Hope this helps. Tom Dugan ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ncar!buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu!dattore Tue May 18 23:48:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17300 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ncar!buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu!dattore From: dattore@buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu (Bob Dattore) Subject: Michigan Bulb Company Message-ID: <1993May18.182514.3430@ncar.ucar.edu> Sender: dattore@ncar.ucar.edu (Bob Dattore) Organization: Scientific Computing Divison/NCAR Boulder, CO References: <1993May13.021649.19397@bsu-ucs> <1t9b7s$eql@hpfcbig.sde.hp.com> Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 18:25:14 GMT Lines: 43 In article <1t9b7s$eql@hpfcbig.sde.hp.com> lisa@fc.sde.hp.com (Lisa Stroyan) writes: > >I seem to remember seeing postings from various people about bad >impressions of Michigan Bulb Co a while back. Your message confirms >this... Just thought others might want to be warned away from this >company. (Someone correct me if I am thinking of the wrong >company...). > >Lisa > I've had some experience with Michigan Bulb Company and would like to comment. We moved into a new home with no landscaping in Jan 1992. Besides what plants we bought at nurseries around town, we ordered quite a bit of stuff from Michigan Bulb Company. I must say we were shocked when we opened the packages and found these dinky little plants that were no more than some roots and one or two leaves, some of which were rather dried out even. But we planted everything we received, and I'd guess that about 75% of what we ordered took hold. We have been really happy with the asters we ordered from them. We planted eight of them down one side of our driveway. By fall of last year, you couldn't park at the edge of the driveway and open the car door without knocking the top of the "bushes", they were loaded with blooms, and they are coming back bigger and thicker this year. We are also happy with the day lilies. Last summer, they were kind of thin and didn't have a great many flowers, but this year, they are coming back big-time. We got better mums at the nurseries than what MBC sent us. We thought the creeping myrtle had all died, but it surprised us this spring and it is coming up all over the place with lots of purple flowers. The sweet williams (i think that's what they are called) didn't bloom last summer, but they got huge this spring and are ready to explode with flowers. And the fiesta daisies were great last summer, and look like they'll be even better this year. Overall, I'm happy with MBC. We were disappointed in some of the stuff that didn't make it - columbines, creeping phlox, painted daisies, but we filled in with nursery-purchased plants. We did get credit for what died, and in the fall, we planted about 200 bulbs. They weren't as spectacular as we had hoped this spring, but maybe next year will be better. So that's my (long) two cents on Michigan Bulb Company. Bob From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!hylandn1.life.uiuc.edu!user Tue May 18 23:48:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17301 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!hylandn1.life.uiuc.edu!user From: n-hyland@uiuc.edu (Nancy Hyland) Subject: A Gardening Novice Soliciting Advice Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 18:28:01 GMT Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: University of Illinois Lines: 25 I had never done much gardening before but I've recently moved into a house with a large greenhouse in the backyard so I decided to try it this year. I never thought that I would enjoy digging in dirt as much as I do :-) I live in East Central Illinois (I'm not sure what zone that is) I would appreciate any recommendations for books on organic gardening you my have. I'm mostly interested in growing vegetables and herbs. I'm having trouble with two tomatillo seedlings that have been up (in pots) for about two weeks: they're a nice green color and have four leaves on each but the stems are about 4 inches tall and are quite spindly. This morning when I checked on them they were both flat against the ground. Should I pinch off the new leaves until the stems get sturdier? Build a small trellis out of popsicle sticks? I'm concerned that this will also happen with the tomato seedlings that have been up for about a week. They've been planted in potting soil and I haven't used any kind of fertilizer. It's been cooler than usual here but the seedlings haven't been out of the greenhouse yet. I would appreciate any advice/ideas that anyone may have. Thanks! Nan Hyland n-hyland@uiuc.edu "The novelist always precedes the scientist" --Sigmund Freud From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!acorn!AWaddington Tue May 18 23:48:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17302 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!acorn!AWaddington From: AWaddington@acorn.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Sorbus americana info, anyone ? Message-ID: <23731@acorn.co.uk> Date: 18 May 93 18:28:12 GMT Sender: mailserv@acorn.co.uk Organization: Acorn Computers Ltd, Cambridge, England Lines: 12 I have 'The Audubon Guide to American Trees, Western Region', which contains good descriptions of all the western American trees which I have just planted. I have used these as the basis for my garden documentation, but there are still one or two gaps. In particular, I have a 6 foot high (and growing...) specimen of Sorbus americana, which is an Eastern US species. Would anyone with a copy of the Eastern Region Audubon guidebook be prepared to type in its description (just the text) and Email it to me ? It would be a great help. TIA, Andy currently AWaddington@Acorn.co.uk From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uknet!acorn!AWaddington Tue May 18 23:48:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17303 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uknet!acorn!AWaddington From: AWaddington@acorn.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Wild provenance seed exchange Message-ID: <23732@acorn.co.uk> Date: 18 May 93 18:40:27 GMT Sender: mailserv@acorn.co.uk Organization: Acorn Computers Ltd, Cambridge, England Lines: 25 Is there a seed exchange scheme in the USA, similar to the one run by the Hardy Plant Society in Britain ? Or any sort of scheme for individuals to collect wild plant seed whilst on their travels and mail it on ? I would be more than willing to collect european plant seeds in response to any requests on the net, if I happen to be in the right area at the right time to do so. I imagine there are lots of people who, like me, would like to obtain wild provenance seeds, ethically collected (ie. not by taking the whole plant, just a small fraction of the seeds from scattered individuals). Particularly for species not in cultivation in their own country. Does anyone know if airmail is routinely X-rayed at a level which would prevent seeds from germinating ? I myself am seeking wild provenance seed from a couple of dozen tree species native to the west of North America from Alaska to the Sierra Nevada of California. I haven't been able to trace any commercial sources, as growers normally sell trees as cuttings or transplants. Obviously this is not feasible by transatlantic mail ! If no such network of seed collectors and exchangers exists already, is anyone out there (anywhere, not just the US) interested in starting such an informal scheme, or just in collecting a few seeds to see how it would work ? Please contact me either via this group or by email direct if interested or if you know that I am trying to reinvent the wheel. TIA, Andy. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae Tue May 18 23:48:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17304 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: tarragon herb Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 19:07:31 GMT Lines: 14 In article jtmorgan@chopin.udel.edu (James Morgan) writes: >I am growing tarragon and it has no flavor at all like what I can buy fresh in >my grocery store. Is there something I must do special in cultivating this? There are two types of tarragon. One, which can be grown from seed, is sometimes called "Russian tarragon", doesn't have much flavour, and is probably what you've got. The other kind is called "French tarragon" (or "true French tarragon"). It doesn't bloom and is propagated vegetatively. If you like the stuff you get at your grocery store, you can try rooting some of it to get your own plants. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae Tue May 18 23:49:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17305 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: Silver Jade - 2nd Post Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 19:14:08 GMT Lines: 34 In article cheryl@cbnews.cb.att.com (cheryl.a.rothlisberger) writes: > >Help! Something's wrong with my silver jade plant (crassula >arborescens). I've had it indoors all winter where it has done >beautifully. Now that the weather has warmed up, I put the plant out >on deck in full sun as I do every year. After only two days the top >leaves flattened out and turned brownish red. They look sun >scorched. Is this a possibility? It sounds like sunburn to me. Plants, even desert plants, have to be gradually introduced to sunlight after being indoors for a while, since artificial light and sunlight through window glass have very little UV. >I moved it under our table umbrella which is mesh so filtered >sunlight gets through, and I've fed it with Miracle Grow. Next year start it under the umbrella, or even under the table, exposing it to slightly more sunlight over a period of a week or two. >I've always had the plant out in full sun every summer for the past >21 years. What's wrong? The leaves are dropping off at an alarming >rate. What, if anything, should I do now? Please help if you can, >I don't want to lose my plant. Over the past few years I've noticed that my plants seem to need more gradual exposure to sun than they used to. I wouldn't be surprised if this is because of the ozone hole and increased UV in the spring at my latitude (43N). Perhaps it is becoming more of a problem where you are too. Btw, you can root the fallen leaves and grow a whole forest of new plants. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto Ontario Canada From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae Tue May 18 23:49:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17306 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: HELP: Plants growing white and wilting Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 19:19:19 GMT Lines: 18 In article tlp@panix.com (Tracy Pendergast) writes: >I planted my seeds and watched them sprout. So >far so good. I transplanted them into window >boxes. Again, so far so good. > >AND THEN... they started to turn white and wilt. They are sunburned. That paper-white colour is very characteristic. You have to expose indoor-grown plants to sunlight very gradually, or the UV in sunlight will burn them up. See my reply to the person with the sunburned jade plant. Your seedlings may survive, though set back, if enough unburned tissue survived. In the future, shade the plants from direct sunlight, exposing them gradually over a period of a week or two, so they can adjust. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto Ontario Canada From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!worldbank.org!nimbus!pkumar Tue May 18 23:49:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17307 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!worldbank.org!nimbus!pkumar From: pkumar@worldbank.org (Piyush Kumar 880/40 R6070 32319) Subject: Save my flowers from Chipmunks Message-ID: <1993May18.195306.24487@worldbank.org> Sender: news@worldbank.org Reply-To: pkumar@worldbank.org Organization: The World Bank Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 19:53:06 GMT Lines: 24 New to this group, pardon my ignorance... I am a novice garderner, in fact this is the first year that I have grown my own flowering plants (impatiens, begonia, alyssum etc.) from seeds. It was with tender love that I watched the seedlings appear and grow millimeter by millimeter each day. When they were old enough, I transferred them into containers that I keep on my patio, expecting the joy of seeing healthy and colorful flowers in a few weeks. But these chipmunks....I used to find them cute at one time, now they are just ignorant, careless rogues. In short, it seems that every time I water the baby plants, these fellows come up and start digging up the pots. They don't eat the plants themselves, just seem to be looking for something in the soil, in the process uproot and damage/kill the plants. How can I get rid of them? I really don't want to kill them (I am not sure how I would feel if they continue for long...), just some form of repellants. Sometime ago somebody had advised on the net to sprinkle cloves to keep away bunnies....doesn't work for chipmunks. Couldn't find any suitable pesticide at Hechinger. Need help, am desperate..... Piyush From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!newsserver.pixel.kodak.com!kodak!neural!bryant Tue May 18 23:49:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17308 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!newsserver.pixel.kodak.com!kodak!neural!bryant From: bryant@neural.Kodak.COM (Steve Bryant) Subject: Re: Where to buy dwarf apple trees? Message-ID: <1993May18.163133.23147@kodak.kodak.com> Sender: news@kodak.kodak.com Organization: Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, NY References: <1453300192@igc.apc.org> Date: Tue, 18 May 93 16:31:33 GMT Lines: 9 In article <1453300192@igc.apc.org>, Libby Goldstein writes: > >Personally, it seems to me that if one is a home gardener, one really ought to think about growing stuff that's less easily bought in the market than apples. >Like white nectarines (Miller) or Green Gage plums or sour cherries for pies >and jams. > Fruit trees grown in orchards generally are very heavy on the pesticide. If you want your apples free of pesticides the best way is to grow your own. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!vmd.cso.uiuc.edu!TROUTMAN Tue May 18 23:49:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17309 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!vmd.cso.uiuc.edu!TROUTMAN From: TROUTMAN@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu Subject: Pinching back peppers Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 20:57:57 GMT Message-ID: <16BD2E085.TROUTMAN@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu> Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Organization: C.C.S.O. Lines: 7 Does anyone here in the cybergarden pinch back their peppers? I seemed to remember hearing about this once, but my standard reference sources don't seem to mention it (could have missed it, though :*) ... Leslie Troutman TROUTMAN@UIUCVMD From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Tue May 18 23:49:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17310 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RE: Latin names (my favorite) Message-ID: <1993May18.124425.1370@calmasd.prime.com> Date: 18 May 93 20:44:25 GMT References: <1993May7.102743.1@uncavx.unca.edu> <1993May12.182517.23883@husc3.harvard.edu> <1993May13.125859.5239@newsgate.sps.mot.com> <1993May13.181318.11063@newsgate.sps.mot.com> Organization: - Lines: 7 My favorite: Agave Americana Variegata (Not sure on the variegata spelling.) I love the way it rolls off the tongue. Jim From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!hamblin.math.byu.edu!yvax.byu.edu!cunyvm!rmccu Tue May 18 23:49:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17311 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!hamblin.math.byu.edu!yvax.byu.edu!cunyvm!rmccu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP -- wild violets are taking over my lawn Message-ID: <93138.123512RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> From: Robert Chambers Date: Tuesday, 18 May 1993 12:35:12 EDT References: <1993May17.150232.3720@icd.ab.com> Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems Lines: 15 Wild violates (:-) I have some in my grass also... I spent an hour or so last year digging a bunch of the roots up, they grow from a tuber type thing.. corm? I replanted a lot along a pathway and they come up quite nicely.. talk about hard to kill.. I noticed a bunch more growing in the same place so perhaps I should spend some time and try to dig some more out.. They don't hurt the grass any and the flower look quite nice (mine are the white with splashes of purple) They compost in with the grass clippings just fine! Robert From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!hamblin.math.byu.edu!yvax.byu.edu!cunyvm!rmccu Tue May 18 23:49:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17312 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!hamblin.math.byu.edu!yvax.byu.edu!cunyvm!rmccu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: SLUG PELLETS Message-ID: <93138.124248RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> From: Robert Chambers Date: Tuesday, 18 May 1993 12:42:48 EDT References: <35982@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Distribution: usa Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems Lines: 32 In article <35982@oasys.dt.navy.mil>, 2712s@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Jennifer Murnane) says: > ..... >Question #1 Do the slugs die after feasting on the pellets? Yes >Question #2 Or do they just draw out the critters so I can toss them > away? No, the critters get a couple of inches away from the pellet and then die. I'm not sure but I'd imagine whatever poison kills the slugs would remain in them so I'd suggest not leaving them in the open in case birds ate them and got sick. >Question #3 What is that glob of stuff around the pellets? Are they > disintegrating? Eeewwww Thats slug juice.. They all have a coating of it and produce more when they are in distress (like when I put salt on them). Don't worry about the stuff too much. >Please, if anyone can answer these questions I would be most grateful. Hope it helps... we all hate slugs.. except for one person who is lucky enough to have a duck that eats them!! I found the slug-getta (tm) pellets pretty good, inexpensive and last fairly well. They are supposed to be safe around vegetables. Watch out for pets though since they look like animal food and animals will get very sick if they ingest them. >Jenn Robert From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!air1.larc.nasa.gov!rka Tue May 18 23:49:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17313 of rec.gardens Xref: samba misc.consumers.house:33541 rec.gardens:17313 Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!air1.larc.nasa.gov!rka From: rka@air1.larc.nasa.gov (Rob K. Angellatta) Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mulching mowers summary Date: 18 May 93 17:17:43 EST Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA Lines: 42 Message-ID: <1993May18.171743.1@air1.larc.nasa.gov> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: air1.larc.nasa.gov In article , NSX@chip.cba.ufl.edu (Mark Sterling) writes: >> At first I was going to get the Deere because I figured it was all >> American. But someone told me that Deere is foreigned owned and >> assembled now. >> >>Boy, that's bad news. Everyone knows that only Amurrcans know how to >>make good machines. But you can't let down your guard! Honda mowers >>are made in the US, but their factory manager is apparently (gasp) >>Asian! Are you sure that Toro's management isn't Jewish--I understand >>the bull is actually a symbol of secret sacrificial rites! Maybe >>Troy-Bilt hires non-citizens to work in its factories? I hear the >>president of Lawn-Boy speaks fluent German; do you think you can trust >>him? Did you know that Sears is at least 10% foreign-owned? > > > Well, well, well. We're quite the comedian aren't we? > > Just for your information, I already own two Honda Civics. Would I buy > another one today? Not sure. > > I've noticed recently that the a dollar doesn't buy 156 Yen like it used to; > now it only buys 110. In case you haven't noticed we're in a recession. > And as long as we're in it, I'm concerned about where my American dollar > goes. I want it to go to an American manufacturer who's hiring American > workers. > > [stuff deleted] > > So take your political correctness and shove it. > > Mark Sterling > NSX@chip.cba.ufl.edu Now this is amusing: two Honda Civics we're in a recession [now] I'm concerned about where my American dollar goes 8^) Rob From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!lcatlett Tue May 18 23:49:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17314 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!lcatlett From: lcatlett@carson.u.washington.edu (Lynn Catlett) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: A Gardening Novice Soliciting Advice Date: 18 May 1993 21:28:27 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 17 Message-ID: <1tbkdrINNo38@news.u.washington.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu >I'm having trouble with two tomatillo seedlings that have been up (in pots) > >each but the stems are about 4 inches tall and are quite spindly. This >morning when I checked on them they were both flat against the ground. >Nan Hyland >n-hyland@uiuc.edu I grew tomatillos for the first time last year and didn't at first take seriously the warning that they'd sprawl all over the place if not tied up... Hah! THIS TIME I'm prepared! ... though overnight horizontotality at 4" does sound extreme, even for tomatillos.... Lynn Catlett lcatlett@u.washington.edu Staying tuned for net.wisdom From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!staff.tc.umn.edu!mejh Tue May 18 23:49:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17315 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!staff.tc.umn.edu!mejh From: mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu (Michael E. Hedman) Subject: Rhubarb leaves Message-ID: Sender: news@news2.cis.umn.edu (Usenet News Administration) Nntp-Posting-Host: staff.tc.umn.edu Organization: University of Minnesota Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 22:50:37 GMT Lines: 8 Can rhubarb leaves be composted? I have heard that such things as black oak leaves are not good for compost (for example). -- ________________________________________________________________________________ Michael E. Hedman | E-MAIL : mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu University of Minnesota, CIS | PHONE : 612-626-1338 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!staff.tc.umn.edu!mejh Tue May 18 23:49:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17316 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!staff.tc.umn.edu!mejh From: mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu (Michael E. Hedman) Subject: Dandelion control Message-ID: Sender: news@news2.cis.umn.edu (Usenet News Administration) Nntp-Posting-Host: staff.tc.umn.edu Organization: University of Minnesota Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 23:45:35 GMT Lines: 15 In trying to control dandelions organically, I have put many hours into digging them up, roots and all and spraying what might be left with a mixture of vinegar, dishwashing soap, and listerine. At any rate, about this time of year the dandelions start to get the better of me and I can't dig all of them before the go to seed. In the past, have simply mowed the heads when they were yellow. This year, my wife has been pulling off the yellow headed ones and collecting them because she said that she has seen some of the ones I cut with the lawn mower have go to seed. Is it possible for a dandelion to become seed when they are cut with yellow heads? -- ________________________________________________________________________________ Michael E. Hedman | E-MAIL : mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu University of Minnesota, CIS | PHONE : 612-626-1338 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!menudo.uh.edu!tamsun.tamu.edu!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!plas5!kip Tue May 18 23:49:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17317 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!menudo.uh.edu!tamsun.tamu.edu!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!plas5!kip From: kip@space.mit.edu (Karolen I. Paularena) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Where to buy dwarf apple trees? Date: 19 May 1993 00:45:30 GMT Organization: MIT Center for Space Research Lines: 11 Message-ID: <1tbvvaINNe6o@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU> References: <1453300192@igc.apc.org> Reply-To: kip@space.mit.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: plas5.mit.edu Originator: kip@plas5 In article <1453300192@igc.apc.org> Libby Goldstein writes: >Personally, it seems to me that if one is a home gardener, one really ought to >think about growing stuff that's less easily bought in the market than apples. I just couldn't let this pass. I would be perfectly happy not to "waste" space in my garden on apples, IFF I could find the varieties I wanted in the market. The only time I've been able to eat a Russet (antique variety) apple that I purchased was off of one tree at a "pick-your-own" orchard. I don't know if a home-grown Red Delicious is better than a (not cold storage) supermarket apple, but I sure like the broad choices I get if I pick what I want to grow... From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!ogicse!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!hank Tue May 18 23:49:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17318 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!ogicse!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!hank From: hank@sequent.com (Hank Piatek) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mystery Plant Message-ID: <1993May19.002516.25060@sequent.com> Date: 19 May 93 00:25:16 GMT Article-I.D.: sequent.1993May19.002516.25060 Sender: usenet@sequent.com (usenet ) Distribution: na Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc. Lines: 32 Nntp-Posting-Host: crg8.sequent.com I need some help finding seeds to a plant that I have not seen since 1959. Our family use to spend our summers in a Russian Bungalow Colony in the Catskills, Upstate New York. The owner grew these flowers from seeds he brought from Russia. What's the Latin name? Are they available in the US? ***************************************** It's a long time ago. I'm not 100% sure of the following. Mystery Plant Clues: 1. Very very fragrant but only in the evening. 2. Little white flowers (1/2"max). * 3. Little black seeds in the stalk. /\ \/ -- The stalk peels back to show the seeds down the center. 4. The flowers appear at each joint (~120 degrees between joints). *--* *--* * * / \ / \ / \ / / \ / \ / \ / *--* *--* * Thanks, Hank Piatek From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!warwick!qmw-dcs!qmw!demon!dpw.com!jprice Tue May 18 23:49:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17319 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!warwick!qmw-dcs!qmw!demon!dpw.com!jprice Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: jprice@dpw.com (Janice Price) Subject: Help -- Need advice on BEES Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 15:48:03 +0000 Message-ID: <9305181553.AA02034@DPW.COM> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk Lines: 17 There are huge bees flying around my deck outside. They are very big and they have stingers. I do not know where they are coming from or how to keep them away. I know they are not bothering anyone, but it can be very annoying! What can I do? We don't see a hive anywhere? Please send me E-MAIL. Thanks =========================================================================== ./._\ __ . __ _ | \8/ | E-MAIL TO: /_/ /_/_ / /_/_/__|/__ | ..!.. | jprice@dpw.com =========================================================================== From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!usc!hacgate!oracle2!deeds Tue May 18 23:49:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17320 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!usc!hacgate!oracle2!deeds From: deeds@oracle2 (Deanna J. Deeds) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: potato bugs Message-ID: <35143@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> Date: 18 May 93 17:52:43 GMT References: <1453300197@igc.apc.org> Sender: news@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM Reply-To: deeds@solaria.hac.com Lines: 20 X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6] Okay, this is sort of related. I want to know what these bugs are (different than those mentioned). We have always called them potato bugs, but they are not sow bugs, and I don't think they're Colorado potato beetles. These are big (up to 2 or 3 inches long), fat (half an inch or so diameter) insects. They're tan colored, and striped-y on the abdomen, sort of blind looking, and shiny (they look slimy to me but I've never touched one - ugh!). I have seen them jump (they have sort of grasshopperry hind legs) when disturbed, but they live under the ground. The cats like to dig them up and bat them about. We had them in No. Calif. where I grew up, and I have them now in So. Calif. I can't find these in the couple of insect ID books I own. What are they? What do they eat? Are they bad? Are the huge, pale-colored grubs I find in the compost heap their larvae, or are those probably June/May beetles (we have those too)? -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Deanna J. Deeds deeds@solaria.hac.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!hacgate!oracle2!deeds Tue May 18 23:49:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17321 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!hacgate!oracle2!deeds From: deeds@oracle2 (Deanna J. Deeds) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sphagnum Moss vs. Peat Moss Message-ID: <35146@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> Date: 18 May 93 20:20:27 GMT References: <1tap1nINNffk@news.u.washington.edu> Sender: news@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM Reply-To: deeds@solaria.hac.com Distribution: na Lines: 22 X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6] Stephen Lamantia (lamantia@hardy.u.washington.edu) wrote: : The peat moss I bought says on the bag "Canadian sphagnum peat : moss," and the nursery folks said it'd be okay. However, a book : I have (Ortho's "Gardening Techniques") says: : : "Sphagnum moss is sometimes confused with peat moss; : it is dried, but not decomposed, moss. Sphagnum : moss is used as a packing material, for making : hanging baskets, and to cover the surface of pots; : but it is not used as a soil amendment." : : So, before I add this in to the soil, I better ask the net: do I : have the wrong stuff? The nursery and the book are both correct. Sphagnum is a kind of moss. Decayed moss is peat moss. Decayed sphagnum is sphagnum peat. (Did I get it right, Kay? Did I learn anything from your sphagnum net-lecture?) -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Deanna J. Deeds deeds@solaria.hac.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!csus.edu!csulb.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Tue May 18 23:49:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17322 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!csus.edu!csulb.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Apple Tree Questions (basic) Message-ID: From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 16:39:24 GMT References: Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 16 palepink@lily.arts.com (Suzii Abe) writes: > bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) writes: > > If you are able to buy > > only one more tree for a pollinator, AVOID Gravenstein, Mutsu, and > > Jonagold, Stayman and Winesap. > > Why? They aren't good pollinators. Notice I said IF YOU CAN ONLY BUY ONE. If you have more room, no problem. > > Is there a coherent agricultural reason? > > Or, if Gravenstein is my favorite base for pie, should I just > assume you're prejudiced toward Red Delicious and ignore you? Gravenstein is a poor pollinator and you will need another tree. > --Suzii. > palepink@lily.arts.com > From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ncar!noao!arizona!arizona.edu!cerritos.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Tue May 18 23:49:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17323 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ncar!noao!arizona!arizona.edu!cerritos.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Apple Tree Questions (basic) Message-ID: Date: 18 May 93 16:48:50 GMT References: No speculation here, but I am not an expert. Why/ how much did you prune the Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 8 apple and pear? Both of these fruit on long-lived spurs and should be pruned only to take out old dead, sick branches, as a rule. Also, the dwarf apple is so short. If it is a genetic dwarf, I wonder if it was fit for your climate. Most of thegenetics I have seen in catalogs were designed for climates like Southern California where they don't fit the chilling requirements of apple-growing regions. Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!tarpit!tous!jwt!hrick Tue May 18 23:49:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17324 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!tarpit!tous!jwt!hrick From: bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org (Rick Harrison) Subject: can anyone ID this vine? Reply-To: bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org Organization: The Matrix Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 00:02:58 GMT Message-ID: Sender: bbs@jwt.UUCP Lines: 40 I need help identifying a vine. I've discovered a single clump of these vines growing on an abandoned lot here in Orlando FL. For some reason, just admiring the vine and growing cuttings of it isn't sufficient -- I want to know its botanical name and what it's related to. So, if you can help, or if you can pass this message along to a botanist who might be able to ID the plant, thanks in advance. It's a trailing or somewhat climbing vine, to 15 feet or more; older vines have a woody appearance, but new growth is green; roots can form at any point where a leaf arises from the vine. Leaves are palmate, quinquefoliolate, entire. Leaflets are rhomboidal-elliptic, moderately dark green and slightly fuzzy on the top, moderately pale green and not fuzzy on the underside. The top two leaflets are the smallest, and the bottom is largest. (See illustration.) Each leaf has its own 1.5-inch stem coming off the vine at a 90 degree angle, and the leaves are spaced about 2 inches apart along the vine. \ / | <--- arrangement ---*--- | of leaflets | 1.5 to 2 inches | | | | Each flower has its own stem arising from the vine. The flowers are up to 2 inches long, white on the outside, violet/purple at the tip and on the inside. The petals never separate; they form a continuous trumpet-shaped entity; tucked inward at the open end, creating an "imploded trumpet" appearance. When the flower is open and you look into the open end, there seem to be 5 white stripes/ arrows against the violet background pointing into the flower. There are five stamens of various lengths, to 0.75 inches long; filaments white; anthers lavender frosted with white pollen. The stigma is more or less surrounded by the anthers. ====================================================================== Rick Harrison 71174.2735@compuserve.com Box 54-7014, Orlando FL 32854 USA bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org