From samba!sunSITE!london Wed May 19 13:52:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17326 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!sunSITE!london From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London) Subject: Re: Herb FAQ underway,accepting contributions. Message-ID: <1993May19.042539.29549@samba.oit.unc.edu> Summary: Herb journal list (gleaned from rec.gardens) for Herb FAQ Sender: usenet@samba.oit.unc.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: sunsite.unc.edu Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill References: <1993May18.091342.10265@newstand.syr.edu> <1993May18.091837.10332@newstand.syr.edu> Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 04:25:39 GMT American Herb Association - Qtrly. newsletter American Herb Assn. 14648 Pear Tree Lane Nevada City, CA 95959 (916)626-5046 Information on the many uses of herbs. Quarterly, individual subscriptions $20.00 American Journal of Chinese Medicine Institute for Advanced Research in Asian Science & Medicine Box 124 450 Clarkson Ave. Brooklyn, NY 11203 Tel # (718)270-1629 Basic scientific and clinical research in indigenous medical techniques, theraputic procedures, medicinal plants, medical theories and concepts. Quarterly, Individual subscription, $50.00 Coltsfoot Coltsfoot Route 1 Box 313A Shipman, VA 22971 (804)263-4817 In appreciation of wild plants with focus on reader contributions. Bimonthly, individual subscriptions, $10.00 Herb Companion Interweave Press, Inc. 201 E. Fourth St. Loveland, CO 80537 (303)669-7672 Addresses the varied interests of herb enthusiasts, from horticulture and history to cooking and crafting. In-depth articles, recipes, and craft how-to's are enhanced with full color photography. Bimonthly, Individual subscriptions $21.00 Herb Quarterly Long Mountain Press, Inc. 1271 Kuhn Rd. Boiling Springs, PA 17007 (717)245-2764 A magazine for herb enthusiasts covering all aspects of herbuses. Turn fennel into a face mask, use ginger in a cold remedy,cold violets into an ome Quarterly, Individual subscriptions $24.00 Herbal Connection Herb Growing and Marketing Network 3343 Nolt Rd. Lancaster, PA 17601 (717)898-3017 Trade journal for herb businesses and for serious hobbyists. Growing, marketing, medicinal uses, book reviews, calendar of events. Bimonthly, individual subscriptions $24.00 Herbal Green Pages Herb Growing and Marketing Network 3343 Nolt Rd. Lancaster, PA 17601 (717)898-3017 Directory of Herb industry, including manufacturers, retailers,wholesalers, associations, periodicals and educational programs. Annual. Individual subscriptions $15.00 Herbarist Herb Society of America, Inc. 2 Independence Ct. Vineyard House Kirtland, OH 44094 (617)371-1486 To further the knowledge of useful plants, notably herbs. Annual, individual subscriptions $5.00 New England Wild Flower Society Newsletter (Wild Flower Notes) New England Wild Flower Society Garden in the Woods Hemenway Rd. Framingham, MA 01701 (508)877-7630 Contains information about native plants, botany, conservation, horticulture. Annual, individual subscriptions, $30.00 North American Flora New York Botanical Garden Scientific Publications Dept. Bronx, NY 10458 (212)220-8721 Monographic treatment of plants native to North America. (unsure of frequency or price) Organic Gardening Rodale Press 33 E. Minor Emmaus, PA 18098 (215)967-3144 A handbook on how to grow food, flowers and landscaping with great success, without chemicals. Monthly, Individual subscriptions, $25.00. Organic World Lott Publishing Co Box 710 Santa Monica, CA 90406 (213)397-4217 Covers the news of organic gardening. Quarterly, Individual subscription $15.00. Over the Garden Fence Box 386 Lake Dallas, TX 75065 (this may be just a misprint and it's really just Dallas, TX) (817)497-4634 Organic gardening, natural foods, dairy goats, herbs. Bimonthly, individual subscriptions, $10.00 The Palmetto Florida Native Plant Society Box 680008 Orlando, FL 32868 (305)647-8839 Articles on florida's native plants and habitats. Quarterly, individual subscriptions $20.00 Seed Savers Exchange (True Seed Exhange) Kent Whealy RR3 Box 239 Decorah, IA 52101 (319) 382-5990 A grass-roots genetic preservation project whose members worktogether to save our vanishing vegetable heritage. (not sure of the frequency of issue) individual subscriptions $25.00 Western Canadian Society for Horticulture Report of Proceedingsof Annual Meetings University of Saskatchewan 272 Administration Bldg. Saskatoon, SK S7N OWO Canada (403)422-1789 Papers on horticulture topics; councils and reports. annual, $10.00 a copy Wildflower Canadian Wildflower Society 90 Wolfrey Ave. Toronto, ON M4K 1K8 Canada (416)466-6428 Dedicated to the study, conservation and cultivation of North America's wild flora; includes material from Central America and coast to coast. The use of native plants in the garden is a secondary focus. Individual subscription, quarterly, $25.00. To find a practioner (naturopathic): ------------------------------------ American Holistic Medical Association 2002 Eastlake Ave E Seattle, WA 98102 206-322-6842 American Association of Naturopathic Physicians P.O. Box 20386 Seattle, WA 98102 206-323-7610 Herbal medicine information: ---------------------------- The American Botanical Council P.O. Box 201660 Austin, Texas 78720 The Herbal Reseach Foundation 1007 Pearl Street Suite 200 Boulder, Colorado 80302 Both of these organizations publish the Herbalgram, they have a 1-800 # for subscriptions: 1-800-748-2617 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Wed May 19 13:52:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17327 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: lilac question Message-ID: <1993May18.214317.1373@calmasd.prime.com> Date: 19 May 93 05:43:17 GMT References: <1993May14.215112.18763@math.ucla.edu> Organization: - Lines: 19 In article <1993May14.215112.18763@math.ucla.edu>, ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: > Is there such a thing as a lilac (Syringia) that grows in very low > winter chill climates? I know about ceanothus, but I don't want > one. I want a real lilac bush with the old fashioned purple flowers > that smell to high heaven. Where I live, I can grow and fruit > tropical guavas (psidium guajava) so it really has to tolerate > a lo-chill lifestyle. Or should I just give up and move to > minnesota? Yes, there are low chill syringia that will bloom in So Cal. However, I forget where I've seem them. Even though they are lilacs, they don't bloom well and are kinda spindly compaired to the ones back east. I don't think they are worth the garden space. Are you sure you won't reconsider ceanothus? They are reliable bloomers and do well without supplemental water. Or how about a budelia? They look kinda like a lilac. Jim From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Wed May 19 13:52:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17328 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: $10K for white marigold Message-ID: <1993May18.215018.1374@calmasd.prime.com> Date: 19 May 93 05:50:18 GMT References: Organization: - Lines: 13 In article , rk30+@andrew.cmu.edu (Ruth Kline) writes: > I remember some time ago Burpee was offering $10,000 to anyone who could > produce a white marigold. I wonder if the "French Vanilla" marigold > developer collected the money -- or is Burpee still looking for a pure > white marigold? Anyone know? > -- Ruth Kline, Carnegie Mellon University The marigold that won the money was an African marigold, not French. They didn't bloom well and weren't very hardy. The new whitish French marigolds are an attempt to come up with a white marigold that most home gardners would want to grow. Jim From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a684 Wed May 19 13:52:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17329 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a684 From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow) Subject: Re: Dandelion control Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 06:07:04 GMT Message-ID: <24440@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 18 mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu (Michael E. Hedman) writes: > In trying to control dandelions organically, I have put many hours into > digging them up, roots and all and spraying what might be left with a > mixture of vinegar, dishwashing soap, and listerine. At any rate, about > this time of year the dandelions start to get the better of me and I can't > dig all of them before the go to seed. How healthy is your lawn? The healthier my lawn is (cut not too short, watered adequately, aereated, fertilized (with grass cuttings)) the fewer dandelions and other weeds that survive. A dandelion in my lawn is now a rare event. So, keep your grass healthy, and let them control the weeds. :) -- Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!hal.com!decwrl!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Wed May 19 13:52:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17330 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!hal.com!decwrl!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Message-ID: From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 23:25:23 GMT References: I tried some wildflowers in a couple of corners of my acre. Mixed Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 11 success-- the biggest problem is the competition with grasses. I'm, thinking now I may build up my soil with compost to miminize grass seeds and roots. Rather than wildflowers in a can, you might look into native plant societies in your region. You may find plants that are actually wild in your area, rather than the mixture of bachelor buttons, alyssum, California poppies, etc. that come in the can. You may find that the local society has a plant&seed exchange in the fall or spring when planting is most appropriate for your area. Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Wed May 19 13:52:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17331 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: tarragon herb Message-ID: From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 23:39:16 GMT References: Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 6 Did you grow it from seed? The variety from seed is not true French Tarragon, which produces from cuttings or divisions. I believe the seed variety is known as Russian tarragon. Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Wed May 19 13:52:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17332 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: POison Iva horror stories Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <1993May7.103716.1@uncavx.unca.edu> <1993May17.112100.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 07:59:58 GMT Lines: 19 In article <1993May17.112100.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca writes: >I've heard of people thinking that a good way to rid their yard or >cottage of poison ivy is to burn it, then they make the big mistake >of inhaling some of the smoke which contains the active oils, leading >to a rather grim death from poison ivy inflammation in the lungs. >Don't know if this is really truth or legend, but it's certainly the >worst poison ivy horror story I've heard. I don't know if that is true or not, but a friend of mine got it in between her fingers from the smoke. She was at Girl Scout camp, and some idiot threw some poison ivy on the fire. I saw the poison ivy blisters between her fingers. It was pretty nasty. Think about it. They rub on each other when you move your fingers. John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Wed May 19 13:52:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17333 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Re: HELP -- wild violets are taking over my lawn Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <1993May14.152930.1027@brtph560.bnr.ca> Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 13:45:19 GMT Lines: 26 In article <1993May14.152930.1027@brtph560.bnr.ca> laurad@bnr.ca writes: >Help!! Wild violets have taken over my lawn and one of my >gardens. (lines omitted) >scared they will overpower the grass. Does anyone know what I can >do to get rid of this? I don't mind digging up my garden, but I >hope not to have to dig up my lawn. Will weed-n-feed be strong >enough for the lawn? If anyone has had successful experience >getting rid of this, please help. > Egads! Violets! And can anyone tell me what to spray to get rid of these pesky hummingbirds and butterflies that keep getting on my flowers? ;) Seriously, while I attempt to repair the basement drainage problems caused by the roots of a willow tree a former owner planted by the foundation (the jerk), and as I struggle to evict the world's most persistent squirrels from my attic, violet problems strike me as a bit funny. In fact, the violets I planted under my roses have spread nicely into my lawn, and I like the way they look. Do your violets look all that bad? Maybe just enjoy them. If one is going to have weeds, you can do worse than violets. Dave From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!jmk Wed May 19 13:52:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17334 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!jmk From: jmk@crosfield.co.uk (john kaye) Subject: grubs in pea pods Message-ID: <1993May19.100952.6056@crosfield.co.uk> Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 10:09:52 GMT Lines: 11 Last year when shelling the peas I grew in Hertfordshire, England, I found tiny white grubs in some of the pods. This rather put us off eating the whole of the pod without shelling. Does anyone know what they are and how I can prevent them this year.? At present my pea plants are about 1 inch high. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail Wed May 19 13:52:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17335 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bee in shed Date: 19 May 1993 07:13:38 -0500 Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway Lines: 39 Sender: daemon@cs.utexas.edu Message-ID: <9305191213.AA25310@im4> NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu >For the last week a (single ?) bee has been trying to build what looks like >the beginning of a hive/nest on the inside of the roof of my small shed out >back. > >I`ve knocked it down a few times. Each day, the bee is back rebuilding in >the same spot. > >Q: What can I do to prevent this? > Should I just kill the bee (and hope that its the only one)? > Should I spray the spot with something that will keep the bee away? > (If so, what do you recommend) > What if there are multiple bees? > >Any help would be greatly appreciated. >Thanks in advance. > >--tony I am sure you must mean a wasp. You can either kill it or keep knocking down the nest. If you have only seen one, that's PROBABLY it, but if you kill it another MAY find your nice dry shed and start building. I monitor a bluebird trail and wasps in the nest boxes is one of our MAJOR problems. We find that they stop trying in July if we keep cleaning them out, killing them when possible. While it is just one and hasn't raised any babies yet it will be relatively nonagressive. What you don't want to do, is allow it to raise some babies, because, as soon as there are four or five of them, they will become MUCH more aggressive and likely to sting. Try to go after it early in the morning when it is chilly. They are very sluggish then and usually just drop to the floor where they are easily killed by stepping on them. --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme Wed May 19 13:52:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17336 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme From: cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help me identify these plants! Date: 19 May 1993 08:14 EST Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 29 Distribution: world Message-ID: <19MAY199308143937@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: lims01.lerc.nasa.gov Keywords: rhodedendrons,azaleas,lilacs News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 I just received my ornamental assortment of seedlings from the local Soil & Water Conservation group. The plants look great, but unfortunately, they aren't labeled. There are 12 plants: in theory 4 each are rhodedendrons, azaleas, and lilacs (different varieties of each plant). Grouping by size or leaflet shape and size was hopeless. I was able to group into 3 groups of 4 based on leaflet position. The three groups were: 1) leaflets occur in bunches of 3 to 8 leaflets, emerging radially from about the same height position at the top of the stem. A secondary stem may also come out from the main stem at this point. 2) Leaflets occur in pairs on opposite sides of the stem - i.e. a pair pointing north, south, then 1/2 inch higher a pair pointing east, west,etc. 3) Leaflets occur singly along the stem None of my gardening books give specific descriptions of these plants. Can anybody out there tell me which is which? Is this even the proper way to group these plants? At the very least, I'd like to be able to separate the lilacs from the rest. Thanks in advance, Marty --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Marty Zimmerman | There are three types of lies; cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov | lies, damn lies, and statistics | - Mark Twain --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Wed May 19 13:52:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17337 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: Rhubarb leaves Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 13:17:00 GMT Lines: 13 In mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu (Michael E. Hedman) writes: >Can rhubarb leaves be composted? I have heard that such things as black >oak leaves are not good for compost (for example). >-- >________________________________________________________________________________ > Michael E. Hedman | E-MAIL : mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu > University of Minnesota, CIS | PHONE : 612-626-1338 I've never had trouble with them in my compost, though they make up a small percentage of the total volume. They degrade very quickly. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!transfer.stratus.com!bu.edu!crsa!vida Wed May 19 13:52:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17338 of rec.gardens Xref: samba misc.wanted:20606 rec.gardens:17338 Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!transfer.stratus.com!bu.edu!crsa!vida From: vida@crsa.bu.edu (Vida Jakabhazy) Newsgroups: misc.wanted,ne.wanted,rec.gardens Subject: WANTED: Back issues of Fine Gardening Message-ID: <120062@bu.edu> Date: 19 May 93 12:14:39 GMT Sender: news@bu.edu Followup-To: misc.wanted Organization: Boston University Center for Remote Sensing Lines: 6 I'm wondering if anyone has back issues of this magazine that they want to get rid of. If so, I'd be happy to take 'em off your hands. Vida Jakabhazy From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!ams.com!e-math.ams.com!ash Wed May 19 13:52:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17339 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!ams.com!e-math.ams.com!ash From: ash@ulysses.mr.ams.com (Alan Harder) Subject: Re: Apple Trees In-Reply-To: pms5s@galen.med.Virginia.EDU's message of Sun, 16 May 1993 14:21:04 GMT Message-ID: Sender: news@e-math.ams.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: ulysses.mr.ams.com Organization: American Math. Society References: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 14:54:06 GMT Lines: 25 In article pms5s@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (Patricia M. Shannon) writes: >We have two healthy three year old apple trees in our front >yard and have only had three blossoms last year with no fruit. >This year, we have no blossoms. Please let me know via e-mail >what I should be feeding them and when. Thanks in advance. Sorry I can't answer your question. We have two 25 year old large apple trees in our back yard, and every year they are COVERED with blossoms. Then, in the fall, we pick up those dang apples for EVER. Is there some sort of spray that will discourage the blossoms from producing fruit? It really puts a strain on our composter when we add all of those apples. -Alan Harder ash@math.ams.org The above commentary, which does not *even* represent the opinion of the American Mathematical Society, is sold by weight, not by volume. Some settling of the contents may have occurred during shipping. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!convex!suplick Wed May 19 13:52:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17340 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!convex!suplick From: suplick@convex.com (Jean Suplick) Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Message-ID: Sender: usenet@convex.com (news access account) Nntp-Posting-Host: mikey.convex.com Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA References: <1993May19.041450.29031@samba.oit.unc.edu> Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 14:17:10 GMT X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and not necessarily those of CONVEX. Lines: 9 While selecting plants for a new perennial garden this spring, I was surprised to find that _many_ of the perennials avaiable at my local nurseries are really wildflowers around here. Blanketflower, coreopsis, purple cone flower, various salvias, blue asters, gayfeather, etc. Most of these bloom once in a season, but there are cultivars that have extended blooming cylces. Next year I plan to start some coreopsis seedlings and plant them around the outside of our "privacy" fence, along the alley. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.tek.com!tekig7!gaulandm Wed May 19 13:53:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17341 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.tek.com!tekig7!gaulandm From: gaulandm@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM (Mike Gauland) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Silt in Garden Well Message-ID: <10023@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM> Date: 19 May 93 13:52:56 GMT Distribution: usa Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, OR Lines: 11 Our garden well has starting pumping very silty water. In the past, the water always cleared after a few minutes, but this stuff keeps comin' and comin'. What causes this, and what can be done about it? This is very fine silt, so I don't think it's as simple as installing/replacing a filter. Thanks, Mike -- Michael A. Gauland gaulandm@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM AA7JF (503) 627-5067 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!desperado.lerc.nasa.gov!dvandrei Wed May 19 13:53:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17342 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!desperado.lerc.nasa.gov!dvandrei From: dvandrei@desperado.lerc.nasa.gov (Don Van Drei) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Request for Info: Trees Date: 19 May 1993 14:45:32 GMT Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 8 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdh6c$s0d@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> Reply-To: dvandrei@lerc.nasa.gov NNTP-Posting-Host: desperado.lerc.nasa.gov I'm looking for an electronic source for information about tree species? -- ----------------------------------------------------- Donald Van Drei NASA Lewis Research Center dvandrei@desperado.lerc.nasa.gov (216) 433-9089 ----------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!zeno.fit.edu!zach.fit.edu!lipofsky Wed May 19 13:53:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17343 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!zeno.fit.edu!zach.fit.edu!lipofsky From: lipofsky@zach.fit.edu (Judy Lipofsky (ACS)) Subject: Re: lilac question Message-ID: Sender: news@zeno.fit.edu (USENET NEWS SYSTEM) Nntp-Posting-Host: zach.fit.edu Organization: Florida Institute of Technology, Melbourne, FL USA References: <1993May14.215112.18763@math.ucla.edu> <1993May18.214317.1373@calmasd.prime.com> Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 14:29:12 GMT Lines: 25 In article <1993May18.214317.1373@calmasd.prime.com> jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) writes: >In article <1993May14.215112.18763@math.ucla.edu>, ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: >> Is there such a thing as a lilac (Syringia) that grows in very low >> winter chill climates? I know about ceanothus, but I don't want >> one. I want a real lilac bush with the old fashioned purple flowers >> that smell to high heaven. Where I live, I can grow and fruit >> tropical guavas (psidium guajava) so it really has to tolerate >> a lo-chill lifestyle. Or should I just give up and move to >> minnesota? > >Yes, there are low chill syringia that will bloom in So Cal. However, >I forget where I've seem them. Even though they are lilacs, they >don't bloom well and are kinda spindly compaired to the ones back >east. I don't think they are worth the garden space. > >Are you sure you won't reconsider ceanothus? They are reliable >bloomers and do well without supplemental water. Or how about a >budelia? They look kinda like a lilac. > >Jim Descanso Gardens near L.A. (La Canada ?) has real lilacs. They were blooming in early April when I was there and smelled heavenly. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!desperado.lerc.nasa.gov!dvandrei Wed May 19 13:53:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17344 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!desperado.lerc.nasa.gov!dvandrei From: dvandrei@desperado.lerc.nasa.gov (Don Van Drei) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peonies and Ants Date: 19 May 1993 14:50:21 GMT Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 30 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdhfd$s0d@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> References: <24250@mindlink.bc.ca> Reply-To: dvandrei@lerc.nasa.gov NNTP-Posting-Host: desperado.lerc.nasa.gov In article <24250@mindlink.bc.ca>, Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: |> In response to Dave Bradford: dave@maven.b29.ingr.com |> |> >Why are ants (usually big black ones) always on my peonies? They seem |> >to start accumulating there when the flower buds swell up. I have looked |> >for aphids and I can't see any evidence of them. Are the ants after some |> >nectar? I have no noticable damage to the blooms or plant. |> |> I had exactly this same question about my peonies last year. Ants, usually |> big black ones, running all over the peony buds when they started to swell |> up. I watched them really carefully and, like you, couldn't see that they |> were doing any damage to the blooms or the plant and also never saw an aphid. |> Working on the principle that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", I decided to |> leave everything alone and just watch the situation. The flowers bloomed |> beautifully, clearly the buds hadn't been damaged, and as soon as the flowers |> came into bloom all the ants seemed to disappear. So, I can't answer your |> "why it happens" question but I can assure you that it isn't unusual (I have |> since talked to several peony growers around here who report the same |> sequence) and better yet you don't need to do anything about it except |> possibly take a magnifying glass out and watch the show. -Moira Carlson |> I had a neighbor spray his peonies to kill the ants a few years back and they didn't bloom. He hypothized that the ants were helping the buds to break and without them they didn't bloom. -- ----------------------------------------------------- Donald Van Drei NASA Lewis Research Center dvandrei@desperado.lerc.nasa.gov (216) 433-9089 ----------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb Wed May 19 13:53:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17345 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb From: barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Where to buy dwarf apple trees? Date: 19 May 1993 15:04:11 GMT Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH Lines: 27 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdi9b$f8@meaddata.meaddata.com> References: <1453300192@igc.apc.org> <1tbvvaINNe6o@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: firstaid.meaddata.com In article <1tbvvaINNe6o@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU>, kip@space.mit.edu (Karolen I. Paularena) writes: |> |> I just couldn't let this pass. I would be perfectly happy not to "waste" |> space in my garden on apples, IF I could find the varieties I wanted in |> the market. The only time I've been able to eat a Russet (antique variety) |> apple that I purchased was off of one tree at a "pick-your-own" orchard. |> I don't know if a home-grown Red Delicious is better than a (not cold |> storage) supermarket apple, but I sure like the broad choices I get if I |> pick what I want to grow... I absolutely agree. I love the tangy varieties (Jonathan, Macintosh, etc.), and the only place you can find them is in local orchards, and even those don't seem to taste right any more. (Organically grown food is supposed to taste better; if I could find an organic orchard nearby, I'd be thrilled.) To me, a Red Delicious in a grocery store is just a beautiful, unblemished, red space-occupier. Not worth eating. -- Barbara Bruns Technical Communications & Education Mead Data Central barb@meaddata.com P.O. Box 933 ...!uunet!meaddata!barb Dayton, OH 45401 The opinions expressed here by me are not necessarily those of Mead Data Central; nor would they much care about the things about which I have opinions. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu!LAURETT Wed May 19 13:53:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17346 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu!LAURETT From: LAURETT@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu Subject: Nonblooming Iris Message-ID: <16BD398E6.LAURETT@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu> Sender: news@news.yale.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: yalevm.ycc.yale.edu Organization: Yale University Date: Wed, 19 May 93 10:52:22 EDT Lines: 6 I have iris in the same bed, only a foot apart, one group which is blooming gloriously, and the other group with dry flower buds which are obviously not going to bloom at all! I also have a bed in another part of the yard with the same dry buds. Is this from lack of water, overcrowding,or some parasite? Last year the leaves were infested with aphids, but not this year. Please tell me about iris! Thanks, Lisa Miller From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Wed May 19 16:23:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17347 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Re: Help: Potato Seedlings Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 15:23:08 GMT References: <1t8tme$eet@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 15 Many thanks to all the respondants on this. The best clue I got was from Karen K. at Adobe (sorry, I lost the message) who told me to look for leaves that came up in a bunched rosette. Sure enough, yesterday I found a couple of small, bunched rosettes coming up... BTW, I've noticed that just about all respondants seem to be suffering from a Dan Quayle infection -- spelling potato with an "e". Interestingly, I've noticed that I frequently do that (unless I catch it) and always have -- and I'm a pretty good speller. I'm convinced I grew up being taught that "potatoe" was an accepted alternative spelling, in which case Danny probably took more flak than he deserved. Again, thanks to one and all. Gary Hypes From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker Wed May 19 16:23:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17348 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker From: fzbaker@dale.ucdavis.edu (Sharon D. Baker) Subject: Re: American Rose Society Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Administrator) Organization: University of California, Davis X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3 References: <1993May18.143406.2118@VFL.Paramax.COM> Distribution: usa Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 15:51:27 GMT Lines: 17 A membership in the American Rose Society obtains the following benefits: Eleven issues of The American Rose magazine; The Handbook for Selecting Roses; The American Rose Annual; access to the ARS Library, two annual ARS member meetings and national rose shows, a membership card that identifies you as a member and entitles you to discounts on ARS products and programs. Annual Regular membership-- $32.00; Annual Senior (age 65 or over)--$30.00. The American Rose Society, P.O. Box 30000, Shreveport, Louisiana 71130-0030. Credit card orders can be phoned (318)938-5402 or FAXed (318)938-5405. -- Sharon D. Baker sdbaker@ucdavis.edu (916) 752-9946 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!purdue!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan Wed May 19 16:23:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17349 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!purdue!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan From: dkaplan@lion.prime.com (Debbie Kaplan {x6084}) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Message-ID: <5225@cvbnetPrime.COM> Date: 19 May 93 15:45:25 GMT References: Sender: postnews@cvbnetPrime.COM Organization: Computervision, A Prime Computer Company, Bedford, MA, USA Lines: 67 In article dwilbert@bbn.com (Deborah Wilbert) writes: >farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: > >>About this time last year, I volunteered to do a Wildflower FAQ. (no, Kay, I >>didn't forget. I started a project on Trillium, entered graduate school, >>applied to the UTK Botany department, and took the GRE -- it's been a busy >>year). Anyway, I still want to do it if there's enough demand for one. >>(I don't see many posts on wildflowers). > >>So, do y'all want one, and what kinds of things to you want to see in it? > >I'm particularly interested in woodland wildflowers, as it seems to be >the best way to deal with shady areas of the yard. Trillium is a great >start. BTW, I saw an unusual Trillium for sale at the Garden in the >Woods, MA (where all plants are propagated from seed, not >"harvested"). The flower was beatiful-- very full, looked almost like >a gardenia blossom. The drawback: $62.00 for one plant! > >So, for woodland flowers, I think we should discuss suitability for >shady gardens, responsible purchasing, good flower combinations (to >lengthen the blooming season), etc. > >BTW, does anyone know the story on Lady's Slippers? I used to see the >pink variety sometimes in the woods behind my parents house, but I >haven't seen any in years. I looked last Sunday because I know they >have just started to bloom around here. What sort of changes would >cause the Lady's Slippers to die out? Are they still around but just >not blooming? Could they be successfully be reintroduced? (I know they >are very hard to get; I know I don't want to buy plants which were >gathered from the wild, etc) > >Thanks, >-Deborah Wilbert I'm also very interesting in wildflowers and native shrubs, particularly for shady areas. I particularly like the ericaceous species, like azaleas, wintergreen, rhodora, box huckleberry, low-bush blueberry, mountain laurel, pippisewa especially. They go together so well and they're great for acid soil. I'd be interested in hearing about propagation successes and failures. I've heard that trillium is extremely difficult to propagate - although $62 still seems a little high. Was this an unusual variety? The New England Wildflower Society does have some one-of-a-kind cultivars. Sometimes discussions of wildflowers get limited to perrenials. I'd like to see native ferns, shrubs and trees included. Experiences with different soil types and microclimates with natives would also be fun. As far as pink lady slippers go, they are certainly still around in certain areas. They tend to grow in white pine dominated woods. Leominster State Forest in north-central Mass. is a great place to see masses of them. Lady slippers are symbiotic with certain soil fungi ( meaning that the fungus benefits the plant and the plant benefits the fungus ). I believe orchid seeds in general require the symbiotic fungus to be present in the soil in order to germinate. So if the soil structure is disturbed, or the plant is introduced to an area without the fungus, it is very hard for the plant to survive and often impossible for seeds to spout. Usual techniques for transplanting lady slippers ( NOT from the wild ) involve moving as large a mass of soil with the plant as possible. In the woods around your parents' house, have any trees been cut or could too many people have dug them up or picked them? Maybe the tree canopy just became too full in that area for lady slippers to survive? Debbie Kaplan From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!comp.vuw.ac.nz!surrey.amigans.gen.nz!lynx Wed May 19 16:24:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17350 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!comp.vuw.ac.nz!surrey.amigans.gen.nz!lynx From: lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: bamboo Message-ID: Date: 19 May 93 20:54:42 GMT-12 References: <1993May14.215008.18703@math.ucla.edu> <1993May14.200725.13178@iscsvax.uni.edu> Distribution: world Organization: Prime Line, Wanganui, New Zealand Lines: 22 In article <1993May14.200725.13178@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >In article <1993May14.215008.18703@math.ucla.edu>, ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: >> Isn't the split leaf philodendron the one that produces >> an edible fruit. I can't remember the genus name of what >> I am thinking about (Kay, help!!) but the species name >> is "monsterosa." >Monstera deliciosa. "Delicious monster". Nice flavor, but >lousy little glochids that stick in your tongue. I'm gonna have >to find out a better way of eating it.... ;-) Glochids. So _that's_ what they're called. Even the name sounds like what they is - de gotchas in de glottis. Wonder if you get glossitis from eating them. Neat name... How about stripping the fruit... um capsules? off and tossing them into a fruit salad. We found that seemed to deal to the glochids but I fear the flavour of the fruit was somewhat lost. -- lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz lynx@amigans.gen.nz From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan Wed May 19 16:24:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17351 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan From: dkaplan@lion.prime.com (Debbie Kaplan {x6084}) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: tarragon herb Message-ID: <5227@cvbnetPrime.COM> Date: 19 May 93 15:51:45 GMT References: Sender: postnews@cvbnetPrime.COM Organization: Computervision, A Prime Computer Company, Bedford, MA, USA Lines: 11 In article jtmorgan@chopin.udel.edu (James Morgan) writes: >I am growing tarragon and it has no flavor at all like what I can buy fresh in >my grocery store. Is there something I must do special in cultivating this? There are several varieties plant sold as tarragon. From what I've heard, the Russian tarragon has little or no flavor, but the French tarragon is the one to use. Less than reputable nurseries tend to sell the former. Perhaps it's easier to propagate. Debbie Kaplan From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan Wed May 19 16:24:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17352 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan From: dkaplan@lion.prime.com (Debbie Kaplan {x6084}) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sphagnum Moss vs. Peat Moss Message-ID: <5229@cvbnetPrime.COM> Date: 19 May 93 16:06:57 GMT References: <1tap1nINNffk@news.u.washington.edu> Sender: postnews@cvbnetPrime.COM Distribution: na Organization: Computervision, A Prime Computer Company, Bedford, MA, USA Lines: 13 In article <1tap1nINNffk@news.u.washington.edu> lamantia@hardy.u.washington.edu (Stephen Lamantia) writes: >The peat moss I bought says on the bag "Canadian sphagnum peat >moss," and the nursery folks said it'd be okay. However, a book >I have (Ortho's "Gardening Techniques") says: > > "Sphagnum moss is sometimes confused with peat moss; The peat moss you have bought is decomposed sphagnum moss. It's perfectly OK to add it to the soil. WATER IT WELL. Peat moss tends to not absorb water when completely dry. It will take much longer than you think to moisten it. Ironically, once it is moist, it tends to retain moisture. Debbie Kaplan From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!ogicse!lclark!klotz Wed May 19 16:24:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17353 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!ogicse!lclark!klotz From: klotz@lclark.edu (Gretchen Klotz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Want to Transplant Pine Bush: Help! Message-ID: <1993May19.163444.1837@lclark.edu> Date: 19 May 93 16:34:44 GMT Article-I.D.: lclark.1993May19.163444.1837 Organization: Lewis & Clark College, Portland OR Lines: 31 Howdy all! I've just moved into a new house, and while I'm concentrating on getting the vegetable garden going now, there are some other garden-related chores I'm planning for. The biggest of these is this: There is an ornamental pine "bush" that has gotten out of hand, and it's crowding the path where the garbage can is stored. The landlord gave us permission to trim it, cut it down or move it. We'd like to move it, but there are some complicating factors. The bush itself if ~8 feet tall, and ~6 feet in diameter. It grows ~1-1/2 feet away from a 14 foot dogwood that is just finishing blooming. Two feet on the opposite side from the dogwood is a bed of irises that are blooming. The cement front steps and the cement path are about 2 feet away from the trunk on the other 2 sides. My questions: can this "bush" be moved safely, without extensive damage to it or any of the surrounding plants? How large a root ball should we leave? When is the best time of year to do this? (I'm planning on separating the irises in the fall anyhow -- they need more room.) Anything else we should be considering? Thanks! - Gretchen (tired of getting whacked in the face when taking out the garbage -- it's a disagreeable enough chore with out the added injury!) -- Searching for a deep and meaningful .sig that sums up my existence, philosophy, perspective, mood and/or wish for the planet in 4 lines or less... From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!walter!thumper!dfw Wed May 19 16:24:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17354 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!walter!thumper!dfw From: dfw@thumper..bellcore.com (Doris Woods) Subject: Re: can anyone ID this vine? Message-ID: <1993May19.165506.2670@walter.bellcore.com> Summary: Wysteria? Sender: news@walter.bellcore.com Nntp-Posting-Host: thumper.bellcore.com Reply-To: dfw@thumper.UUCP (Doris Woods) Organization: Bellcore MRE References: Date: Wed, 19 May 93 16:55:06 GMT Lines: 25 In article bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org writes: > Some description deleted >Each flower has its own stem arising from the vine. The flowers >are up to 2 inches long, white on the outside, violet/purple at the >tip and on the inside. The petals never separate; they form a >continuous trumpet-shaped entity; tucked inward at the open end, >creating an "imploded trumpet" appearance. When the flower is open >and you look into the open end, there seem to be 5 white stripes/ >arrows against the violet background pointing into the flower. >There are five stamens of various lengths, to 0.75 inches long; >filaments white; anthers lavender frosted with white pollen. >The stigma is more or less surrounded by the anthers. > >====================================================================== >Rick Harrison 71174.2735@compuserve.com >Box 54-7014, Orlando FL 32854 USA bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org Except for the external white of the flower this almost sounds like a wysteria vine. They are absolutely beautiful and very fragrant. I could be wrong though. Doris From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet Wed May 19 16:24:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17355 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet From: H_TRAGGIS@unhh.unh.edu (Hannah Traggis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Killing aphids, safe and very EASY Date: 19 May 1993 14:26:26 GMT Organization: University of New Hampshire Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdg2i$d5g@mozz.unh.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: unhh.unh.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.12 Here is the easiest, most effective and just, as a bonus, happens to be the cheapest way I have found to get rid of aphids! Take a standard size spray bottle (maybe about 1/2 gallon or less) and fill with water. To this, add one or two drops of dish detergent, doesn't have to be a highly concentrated mixture and you don't want it to be very sudsy... you can also add a drop of ammonia, if you wish... this has been effective with white fly too, but for sure.... It kills ahpids ON THE SPOT! From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet Wed May 19 16:24:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17356 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet From: H_TRAGGIS@unhh.unh.edu (Hannah Traggis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: ants Date: 19 May 1993 14:34:16 GMT Organization: University of New Hampshire Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdgh8$d5g@mozz.unh.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: unhh.unh.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.12 I've heard that a VERY strong solution of garlic and water is supposed to deter quite a few bugs... take any old garlic heads or some new ones if you feel like buying special for the occaision ( :) ) and squish them into any old glass jar which has a top that can screwed down ( i used an old vinegar jar, but anything will do... ) fill this jar with water and let it sit out in the sun all the time... or at least until it gets strong... it's not a "picky" mixture... you can keep adding water and garlic to this all summer... just pour in on the ant mounds or the plants they choose to inhabit... nasty little things! It keeps my friends out of my garden so maybe it will help with the ants... :) From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet Wed May 19 16:24:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17357 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet From: H_TRAGGIS@unhh.unh.edu (Hannah Traggis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RE: ants and your peonies Date: 19 May 1993 14:38:09 GMT Organization: University of New Hampshire Lines: 6 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdgoh$d5g@mozz.unh.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: unhh.unh.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.12 Hi! The ants help the peonies open up... they collect the sugar solution which holds the buds tightly shut... they collect it and eat it and the plants get to open their beautiful flowers for you!!! nice symbiosis huh? :) From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!ogicse!lclark!klotz Wed May 19 16:33:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17358 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!ogicse!lclark!klotz From: klotz@lclark.edu (Gretchen Klotz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Moon Gardening/Dark of the Moon Revisited Message-ID: <1993May19.174320.5870@lclark.edu> Date: 19 May 93 17:43:20 GMT Article-I.D.: lclark.1993May19.174320.5870 Organization: Lewis & Clark College, Portland OR Lines: 42 Wanted to follow-up to the recent thread on this. I re-read the articles I'd saved, and while someone posted *about* Ed Hume's _1993 Garden Almanac_, they didn't post how to get it. I just borrowed a friend's copy, and am really delighted with it. I wasn't planning on practicing moon gardening this year, but since rototilling is taking S-O-O-O L-O-N-G and I'm going away this weekend, I'll be right on the moon's schedule next week. Hooray! >From the introduction: Moon gardening is certainly nothing new. It has been passed down through many generations. There are firm believers in moon gardening today who will not plant anything unless a favorable moon sign is indicated. Just as the moon's gravitational pull influences the ocean's tide, it is theorized that it also influences the movement of fluids contained in plants. Moon gardening is based on this belief. It has not been scientifically proven or disproved but subscribers report continued success from this method. This 1993 Garden Almanac will serve as a handy reference guide for the best dates for mowing [to increase growth *or* retard growth], fertilizing, harvesting, canning, drying, and grafting. Dates are included for watering and composting. There is a wealth of information in the booklet that will lead you to successful gardening. This booklet can be adapted to anywhere in the United States and Canada, weather permitting. If moon-based astrological gardening appeals to you, you can order the booklet by sending $2 (includes shipping and handling) to: Ed Hume Seeds 1993 Almanac PO Box 1450 Kent, WA 98035 Enjoy! - Gretchen (no connections, just excited about a new discovery :-) -- Searching for a deep and meaningful .sig that sums up my existence, philosophy, perspective, mood and/or wish for the planet in 4 lines or less... From samba!sunSITE!london Wed May 19 18:57:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17359 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!sunSITE!london From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London) Subject: Re: Herb FAQ underway,accepting contributions. Message-ID: <1993May19.203102.15685@samba.oit.unc.edu> Summary: Small list of books on herb garden design. Sender: usenet@samba.oit.unc.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: sunsite.unc.edu Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill References: <1993May18.091342.10265@newstand.syr.edu> <1993May18.091837.10332@newstand.syr.edu> Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 20:31:02 GMT Subject: Books on Herb Garden Design Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1993 09:59:38 -0800 Reply-To: Rebecca Hershey Sender: Gardens & Gardening From: Rebecca Hershey Subject: Books on Herb Garden Design To: Multiple recipients of list GARDENS Rodale's Illustrated Ency. of Herbs / ed. by Claire Kowalchik -- Rodale Press. (Ithink it comes out every year) and "The Herb Companion" a magazine she claims is great. My favorite picks are: Classic Garden Design : how to adapt and recreate garden features of the past / Rosemary Verey -- 1st American ed. -- New York: Congdon & Weed, c1984. Its a particularly fine book on garden design, (perhaps you've read it already?) There is a special chapter on putting together herb gardens, as well as info. throughout the bokk on ornaments, paths and other features which might suit. Plus its got lovely pictures. Herb Garden Design / Faith H. Swanson & Virginia B. Rrady. -- Hanover: University Press of New England, c1984. No photos to speak of but, lots of really delicious drawings to scale for herb garden plans and nifty ideas. Some of the best (almost cute) plans are for smaller gardens "for the novice" There are both formal and informal designs and an out line of design basics. This book may be out of print but, is worth the trouble to find at your local library or through an interlibrary loan. Good luck with your planning, :^) Rebecca Hershey - Seattle, Washington. hershey@u.washington.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!News.MR.Net!noc.msc.net!ns!ns!guy Wed May 19 18:57:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17360 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!News.MR.Net!noc.msc.net!ns!ns!guy From: guy@ns.network.com (Guy D'Andrea) Subject: Re: Peonies and Ants Message-ID: <1993May19.175431.12270@ns.network.com> Sender: news@ns.network.com Nntp-Posting-Host: ns Organization: Network Systems Corporation References: <24250@mindlink.bc.ca> <1tdhfd$s0d@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> Date: Wed, 19 May 93 17:54:31 GMT Lines: 26 In article <1tdhfd$s0d@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> dvandrei@lerc.nasa.gov writes: >In article <24250@mindlink.bc.ca>, Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >|> In response to Dave Bradford: dave@maven.b29.ingr.com >|> >|> >Why are ants (usually big black ones) always on my peonies? They seem >|> >to start accumulating there when the flower buds swell up. I have looked >|> >for aphids and I can't see any evidence of them. Are the ants after some >|> >nectar? I have no noticable damage to the blooms or plant. >|> >|> I had exactly this same question about my peonies last year. Ants, usually >|> big black ones, running all over the peony buds when they started to swell >|> up. I watched them really carefully and, like you, couldn't see that they >|> were doing any damage to the blooms or the plant > >I had a neighbor spray his peonies to kill the ants a few years back and they >didn't bloom. He hypothized that the ants were helping the buds to break and >without them they didn't bloom. >Donald Van Drei NASA Lewis Research Center >dvandrei@desperado.lerc.nasa.gov (216) 433-9089 >----------------------------------------------------- Yes this is true. The glue-like substance that holds the buds together, is taken/eaten? by the ants allowing the buds to open. If there are no ants, the buds DO NOT open! Weird but true stories!!!! ;-) From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn Wed May 19 18:57:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17361 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn From: wvhorn@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (William VanHorne) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: POison Iva horror stories Date: 19 May 1993 18:37:15 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 14 Message-ID: <1tduor$9ph@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <1993May7.103716.1@uncavx.unca.edu> <1993May17.112100.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: photon.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article <1993May17.112100.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca writes: >I've heard of people thinking that a good way to rid their yard or >cottage of poison ivy is to burn it, then they make the big mistake >of inhaling some of the smoke which contains the active oils, leading >to a rather grim death from poison ivy inflammation in the lungs. >Don't know if this is really truth or legend, but it's certainly the >worst poison ivy horror story I've heard. My brother got a case of poison ivy in his lungs from using a weed-whacker and not noticing that he was whacking poison ivy. It is indeed nasty. But I must say I've never heard of anyone dying from it. ---Bill VanHorne From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!ibmpcug!uujohn!john Wed May 19 18:57:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17362 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!ibmpcug!uujohn!john From: john@uujohn.ibmpcug.co.uk (J Critchley) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,connect.audit Subject: Re: My poor tomato plant Message-ID: <0T2s4B2w165w@uujohn.ibmpcug.co.uk> Date: Wed, 19 May 93 17:18:56 BST References: Distribution: world Organization: John's PC at home Lines: 29 chrisc@ibmpcug.co.uk (Chris Cook) writes: > Tomatoes are really easy to take cuttings from. If your toddler snaps off > a helthy top, take the remains indoors, plant it in damp compost and most > times the snapped-off bit will root like crazy - hormone powder not essential > - and after 2 weeks or so can be replanted as a fresh plant. I remember doing this with my Dad'd tomato plants when I was very young. Every week he went round taking out the side-shoots. Once I suggested trying to stick one on a bit of ground (not compost) to see if it would grow. It did. From that time on I always stuck these side shoots in compost. (they had to be big enough to come off the parent plant cleanly) There must have been about an 80% success rate, with 4-8 good sized tomatos on each little plant. Considering how many side shoots that we got, this was a considerable number. -John ________________________________________________________________________________ Ob quote: "I totally disagree" -Tayfun ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ John Critchley - System Manager, ibmpcug The IBM PC User Group, PO Box 360 Tel. 081-863 1191 Fax: 081-863 6095 Harrow HA1 4LQ, ENGLAND Email: j_critchley@ibmpcug.co.uk Path: ..!uunet!pipex!ibmpcug!j_critchley Personal: Email: john@uujohn.ibmpcug.co.uk Path: ..!uunet!pipex!ibmpcug!uujohn!john From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Wed May 19 18:57:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17363 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Apple Trees Message-ID: <1993May19.184314.1828@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 18:43:14 GMT Lines: 24 In article ash@ulysses.mr.ams.com (Alan Harder) writes: >We have two 25 year old large apple trees in our back yard, and every >year they are COVERED with blossoms. Then, in the fall, we pick up >those dang apples for EVER. Is there some sort of spray that will >discourage the blossoms from producing fruit? It really puts a strain >on our composter when we add all of those apples. I don't know how to stop the fruit from forming, but you could get rid of the apples by putting a box of them out in your office coffee room (we had a produce exchange at Addison-Wesley Publishing that worked on the honor system: bring in your surplus zucchini; take home a basket of strawberries). In my current job people bring in apricots, apples, plums, and various crops that overproduce. Anyone is welcome to help himself to a reasonable amount, and we don't keep score. Another idea: call your local food bank or homeless aid society. They might even come pick up the apples for you. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba!concert!gatech!ncar!kiowa.scd.ucar.edu!ilana Wed May 19 18:57:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17364 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!ncar!kiowa.scd.ucar.edu!ilana From: ilana@kiowa.scd.ucar.edu (Ilana Stern) Subject: Sage flowers Message-ID: <1993May19.194037.13808@ncar.ucar.edu> Sender: news@ncar.ucar.edu (USENET Maintenance) Organization: NCAR/UCAR Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 19:40:37 GMT Lines: 10 My sage appears to be about to flower. I planted it two years ago, and this is the first time I have seen buds on it (one large reddish bud at the top of each stem). Should I pinch them off, or allow them to flower? (This is just ordinary garden sage, Salvia Something-or-other.) -- /\ I'm cruising the data superhighway! \_][ <--NCAR Ilana Stern dod#009 r.b. cliff swallow ilana@ncar.ucar.edu \______________________________________________________________________ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!barry Wed May 19 18:57:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17365 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!barry From: barry@tralee.cray.com (Barry C. Bolding) Subject: Rhubarb Message-ID: <1993May19.124800.5582@walter.cray.com> Originator: barry@tralee Lines: 14 Sender: barry@tralee (Barry C. Bolding) Nntp-Posting-Host: tralee.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Date: 19 May 93 12:48:00 CDT We have recently moved into a home. Among the plants sprouting in the garden this spring is rhubarb. I have never grown or eaten rhubarb. Questions: 1) What parts are edible? 2) When should the edible parts be harvested? 3) What do I leave behind to assure a healthy plant next year? 4) Any good recipes? Thanks Barry barry@tralee.cray.com From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!ncr-sd!ncratl!rduvall.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM Thu May 20 23:48:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17431 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!ncr-sd!ncratl!rduvall.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM From: Roger.Duvall@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM (Roger Duvall) Subject: Re: Azalea questions Message-ID: <19930520131832.Roger.Duvall@rduvall.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM> Sender: root@ncratl.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM Nntp-Posting-Host: rduvall.atlantaga.ncr.com Organization: NCR Corporation X-Newsreader: FTPNuz (DOS) v1.0 References: Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 18:18:00 GMT Lines: 44 In Article "karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen)" says: > OK, i know this is kind of late, but i just discovered that azaleas have > really cool varieties (not just those boring magenta and candy pink > varieties) and am coveting them big time! A friend in the area showed me > her collection, some of which were striped and spotted and banded and > altogether amazing. Unfortunately the only book she has with pictures is in > Japanese --- not a language i can read --- and the specialty catalogues > dont have pictures, just words. The azaleas you are describing might be satsuki. They bloom late ("satsuki" means "fifth month") and many of them have variable patterns of the types you describe in the blooms. They do well here in Atlanta, but they tend to have problems with petal blight. Anybody know how to deal with petal blight? Where can one buy Baleton? > > 1) Any recommendations for good books in English that can get me started on > interesting varieties? > The standard book on azaleas is "Azaleas" by Fred Galle (pronounced like galley). It has a good many color plates. > 2) Recommendations for good nurseries in the East (the closer to Maryland > the better)? It seems kind of silly to order all the way from e.g. > Pasadena, when so many azaleas apparently were bred a few miles from my > home (i.e., USDA and Takoma Park). But good mail order places in the East > will be appreciated too, assuming i can find some decent pictures first...i > dont like the idea of ordering flowering shrubs sight unseen. > Transplant Nursery in Lavonia GA. (Parkertown Rd. will get it there.) But there should be good nurseries closer, and it's more fun to visit than to mail order. > 3) Am i correct in assuming it's too late to plant azaleas here in Zone 7 > (Maryland, between DC and Baltimore)? It's getting hot already, ugh. Would > it be better to wait until fall, or are the plants generally available only > in spring? If you keep them from drying out, you can plant now, but you would be better off waiting until fall. Let the roots get established during the winter so that the plant can make it through the heat and drought of summer. > > Thanks very much for your help, as always! > > > Judy Karpen "pushing back the frontiers of science" > karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC USA > From samba!sunSITE!london Thu May 20 23:48:40 EDT 1993 Article: 17326 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!sunSITE!london From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London) Subject: Re: Herb FAQ underway,accepting contributions. Message-ID: <1993May19.042539.29549@samba.oit.unc.edu> Summary: Herb journal list (gleaned from rec.gardens) for Herb FAQ Sender: usenet@samba.oit.unc.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: sunsite.unc.edu Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill References: <1993May18.091342.10265@newstand.syr.edu> <1993May18.091837.10332@newstand.syr.edu> Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 04:25:39 GMT American Herb Association - Qtrly. newsletter American Herb Assn. 14648 Pear Tree Lane Nevada City, CA 95959 (916)626-5046 Information on the many uses of herbs. Quarterly, individual subscriptions $20.00 American Journal of Chinese Medicine Institute for Advanced Research in Asian Science & Medicine Box 124 450 Clarkson Ave. Brooklyn, NY 11203 Tel # (718)270-1629 Basic scientific and clinical research in indigenous medical techniques, theraputic procedures, medicinal plants, medical theories and concepts. Quarterly, Individual subscription, $50.00 Coltsfoot Coltsfoot Route 1 Box 313A Shipman, VA 22971 (804)263-4817 In appreciation of wild plants with focus on reader contributions. Bimonthly, individual subscriptions, $10.00 Herb Companion Interweave Press, Inc. 201 E. Fourth St. Loveland, CO 80537 (303)669-7672 Addresses the varied interests of herb enthusiasts, from horticulture and history to cooking and crafting. In-depth articles, recipes, and craft how-to's are enhanced with full color photography. Bimonthly, Individual subscriptions $21.00 Herb Quarterly Long Mountain Press, Inc. 1271 Kuhn Rd. Boiling Springs, PA 17007 (717)245-2764 A magazine for herb enthusiasts covering all aspects of herbuses. Turn fennel into a face mask, use ginger in a cold remedy,cold violets into an ome Quarterly, Individual subscriptions $24.00 Herbal Connection Herb Growing and Marketing Network 3343 Nolt Rd. Lancaster, PA 17601 (717)898-3017 Trade journal for herb businesses and for serious hobbyists. Growing, marketing, medicinal uses, book reviews, calendar of events. Bimonthly, individual subscriptions $24.00 Herbal Green Pages Herb Growing and Marketing Network 3343 Nolt Rd. Lancaster, PA 17601 (717)898-3017 Directory of Herb industry, including manufacturers, retailers,wholesalers, associations, periodicals and educational programs. Annual. Individual subscriptions $15.00 Herbarist Herb Society of America, Inc. 2 Independence Ct. Vineyard House Kirtland, OH 44094 (617)371-1486 To further the knowledge of useful plants, notably herbs. Annual, individual subscriptions $5.00 New England Wild Flower Society Newsletter (Wild Flower Notes) New England Wild Flower Society Garden in the Woods Hemenway Rd. Framingham, MA 01701 (508)877-7630 Contains information about native plants, botany, conservation, horticulture. Annual, individual subscriptions, $30.00 North American Flora New York Botanical Garden Scientific Publications Dept. Bronx, NY 10458 (212)220-8721 Monographic treatment of plants native to North America. (unsure of frequency or price) Organic Gardening Rodale Press 33 E. Minor Emmaus, PA 18098 (215)967-3144 A handbook on how to grow food, flowers and landscaping with great success, without chemicals. Monthly, Individual subscriptions, $25.00. Organic World Lott Publishing Co Box 710 Santa Monica, CA 90406 (213)397-4217 Covers the news of organic gardening. Quarterly, Individual subscription $15.00. Over the Garden Fence Box 386 Lake Dallas, TX 75065 (this may be just a misprint and it's really just Dallas, TX) (817)497-4634 Organic gardening, natural foods, dairy goats, herbs. Bimonthly, individual subscriptions, $10.00 The Palmetto Florida Native Plant Society Box 680008 Orlando, FL 32868 (305)647-8839 Articles on florida's native plants and habitats. Quarterly, individual subscriptions $20.00 Seed Savers Exchange (True Seed Exhange) Kent Whealy RR3 Box 239 Decorah, IA 52101 (319) 382-5990 A grass-roots genetic preservation project whose members worktogether to save our vanishing vegetable heritage. (not sure of the frequency of issue) individual subscriptions $25.00 Western Canadian Society for Horticulture Report of Proceedingsof Annual Meetings University of Saskatchewan 272 Administration Bldg. Saskatoon, SK S7N OWO Canada (403)422-1789 Papers on horticulture topics; councils and reports. annual, $10.00 a copy Wildflower Canadian Wildflower Society 90 Wolfrey Ave. Toronto, ON M4K 1K8 Canada (416)466-6428 Dedicated to the study, conservation and cultivation of North America's wild flora; includes material from Central America and coast to coast. The use of native plants in the garden is a secondary focus. Individual subscription, quarterly, $25.00. To find a practioner (naturopathic): ------------------------------------ American Holistic Medical Association 2002 Eastlake Ave E Seattle, WA 98102 206-322-6842 American Association of Naturopathic Physicians P.O. Box 20386 Seattle, WA 98102 206-323-7610 Herbal medicine information: ---------------------------- The American Botanical Council P.O. Box 201660 Austin, Texas 78720 The Herbal Reseach Foundation 1007 Pearl Street Suite 200 Boulder, Colorado 80302 Both of these organizations publish the Herbalgram, they have a 1-800 # for subscriptions: 1-800-748-2617 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Thu May 20 23:48:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17327 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: lilac question Message-ID: <1993May18.214317.1373@calmasd.prime.com> Date: 19 May 93 05:43:17 GMT References: <1993May14.215112.18763@math.ucla.edu> Organization: - Lines: 19 In article <1993May14.215112.18763@math.ucla.edu>, ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: > Is there such a thing as a lilac (Syringia) that grows in very low > winter chill climates? I know about ceanothus, but I don't want > one. I want a real lilac bush with the old fashioned purple flowers > that smell to high heaven. Where I live, I can grow and fruit > tropical guavas (psidium guajava) so it really has to tolerate > a lo-chill lifestyle. Or should I just give up and move to > minnesota? Yes, there are low chill syringia that will bloom in So Cal. However, I forget where I've seem them. Even though they are lilacs, they don't bloom well and are kinda spindly compaired to the ones back east. I don't think they are worth the garden space. Are you sure you won't reconsider ceanothus? They are reliable bloomers and do well without supplemental water. Or how about a budelia? They look kinda like a lilac. Jim From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Thu May 20 23:48:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17328 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: $10K for white marigold Message-ID: <1993May18.215018.1374@calmasd.prime.com> Date: 19 May 93 05:50:18 GMT References: Organization: - Lines: 13 In article , rk30+@andrew.cmu.edu (Ruth Kline) writes: > I remember some time ago Burpee was offering $10,000 to anyone who could > produce a white marigold. I wonder if the "French Vanilla" marigold > developer collected the money -- or is Burpee still looking for a pure > white marigold? Anyone know? > -- Ruth Kline, Carnegie Mellon University The marigold that won the money was an African marigold, not French. They didn't bloom well and weren't very hardy. The new whitish French marigolds are an attempt to come up with a white marigold that most home gardners would want to grow. Jim From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a684 Thu May 20 23:48:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17329 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a684 From: Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca (Nick Janow) Subject: Re: Dandelion control Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 06:07:04 GMT Message-ID: <24440@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 18 mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu (Michael E. Hedman) writes: > In trying to control dandelions organically, I have put many hours into > digging them up, roots and all and spraying what might be left with a > mixture of vinegar, dishwashing soap, and listerine. At any rate, about > this time of year the dandelions start to get the better of me and I can't > dig all of them before the go to seed. How healthy is your lawn? The healthier my lawn is (cut not too short, watered adequately, aereated, fertilized (with grass cuttings)) the fewer dandelions and other weeds that survive. A dandelion in my lawn is now a rare event. So, keep your grass healthy, and let them control the weeds. :) -- Nick_Janow@mindlink.bc.ca From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Thu May 20 23:48:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17331 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: tarragon herb Message-ID: From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 23:39:16 GMT References: Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 6 Did you grow it from seed? The variety from seed is not true French Tarragon, which produces from cuttings or divisions. I believe the seed variety is known as Russian tarragon. Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Thu May 20 23:48:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17333 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Re: HELP -- wild violets are taking over my lawn Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <1993May14.152930.1027@brtph560.bnr.ca> Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 13:45:19 GMT Lines: 26 In article <1993May14.152930.1027@brtph560.bnr.ca> laurad@bnr.ca writes: >Help!! Wild violets have taken over my lawn and one of my >gardens. (lines omitted) >scared they will overpower the grass. Does anyone know what I can >do to get rid of this? I don't mind digging up my garden, but I >hope not to have to dig up my lawn. Will weed-n-feed be strong >enough for the lawn? If anyone has had successful experience >getting rid of this, please help. > Egads! Violets! And can anyone tell me what to spray to get rid of these pesky hummingbirds and butterflies that keep getting on my flowers? ;) Seriously, while I attempt to repair the basement drainage problems caused by the roots of a willow tree a former owner planted by the foundation (the jerk), and as I struggle to evict the world's most persistent squirrels from my attic, violet problems strike me as a bit funny. In fact, the violets I planted under my roses have spread nicely into my lawn, and I like the way they look. Do your violets look all that bad? Maybe just enjoy them. If one is going to have weeds, you can do worse than violets. Dave From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!jmk Thu May 20 23:48:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17334 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!jmk From: jmk@crosfield.co.uk (john kaye) Subject: grubs in pea pods Message-ID: <1993May19.100952.6056@crosfield.co.uk> Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 10:09:52 GMT Lines: 11 Last year when shelling the peas I grew in Hertfordshire, England, I found tiny white grubs in some of the pods. This rather put us off eating the whole of the pod without shelling. Does anyone know what they are and how I can prevent them this year.? At present my pea plants are about 1 inch high. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail Thu May 20 23:48:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17335 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bee in shed Date: 19 May 1993 07:13:38 -0500 Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway Lines: 39 Sender: daemon@cs.utexas.edu Message-ID: <9305191213.AA25310@im4> NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu >For the last week a (single ?) bee has been trying to build what looks like >the beginning of a hive/nest on the inside of the roof of my small shed out >back. > >I`ve knocked it down a few times. Each day, the bee is back rebuilding in >the same spot. > >Q: What can I do to prevent this? > Should I just kill the bee (and hope that its the only one)? > Should I spray the spot with something that will keep the bee away? > (If so, what do you recommend) > What if there are multiple bees? > >Any help would be greatly appreciated. >Thanks in advance. > >--tony I am sure you must mean a wasp. You can either kill it or keep knocking down the nest. If you have only seen one, that's PROBABLY it, but if you kill it another MAY find your nice dry shed and start building. I monitor a bluebird trail and wasps in the nest boxes is one of our MAJOR problems. We find that they stop trying in July if we keep cleaning them out, killing them when possible. While it is just one and hasn't raised any babies yet it will be relatively nonagressive. What you don't want to do, is allow it to raise some babies, because, as soon as there are four or five of them, they will become MUCH more aggressive and likely to sting. Try to go after it early in the morning when it is chilly. They are very sluggish then and usually just drop to the floor where they are easily killed by stepping on them. --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme Thu May 20 23:48:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17336 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme From: cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help me identify these plants! Date: 19 May 1993 08:14 EST Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 29 Distribution: world Message-ID: <19MAY199308143937@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: lims01.lerc.nasa.gov Keywords: rhodedendrons,azaleas,lilacs News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 I just received my ornamental assortment of seedlings from the local Soil & Water Conservation group. The plants look great, but unfortunately, they aren't labeled. There are 12 plants: in theory 4 each are rhodedendrons, azaleas, and lilacs (different varieties of each plant). Grouping by size or leaflet shape and size was hopeless. I was able to group into 3 groups of 4 based on leaflet position. The three groups were: 1) leaflets occur in bunches of 3 to 8 leaflets, emerging radially from about the same height position at the top of the stem. A secondary stem may also come out from the main stem at this point. 2) Leaflets occur in pairs on opposite sides of the stem - i.e. a pair pointing north, south, then 1/2 inch higher a pair pointing east, west,etc. 3) Leaflets occur singly along the stem None of my gardening books give specific descriptions of these plants. Can anybody out there tell me which is which? Is this even the proper way to group these plants? At the very least, I'd like to be able to separate the lilacs from the rest. Thanks in advance, Marty --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Marty Zimmerman | There are three types of lies; cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov | lies, damn lies, and statistics | - Mark Twain --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Thu May 20 23:48:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17337 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: Rhubarb leaves Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 13:17:00 GMT Lines: 13 In mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu (Michael E. Hedman) writes: >Can rhubarb leaves be composted? I have heard that such things as black >oak leaves are not good for compost (for example). >-- >________________________________________________________________________________ > Michael E. Hedman | E-MAIL : mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu > University of Minnesota, CIS | PHONE : 612-626-1338 I've never had trouble with them in my compost, though they make up a small percentage of the total volume. They degrade very quickly. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!transfer.stratus.com!bu.edu!crsa!vida Thu May 20 23:49:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17338 of rec.gardens Xref: samba misc.wanted:20606 rec.gardens:17338 Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!transfer.stratus.com!bu.edu!crsa!vida From: vida@crsa.bu.edu (Vida Jakabhazy) Newsgroups: misc.wanted,ne.wanted,rec.gardens Subject: WANTED: Back issues of Fine Gardening Message-ID: <120062@bu.edu> Date: 19 May 93 12:14:39 GMT Sender: news@bu.edu Followup-To: misc.wanted Organization: Boston University Center for Remote Sensing Lines: 6 I'm wondering if anyone has back issues of this magazine that they want to get rid of. If so, I'd be happy to take 'em off your hands. Vida Jakabhazy From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!ams.com!e-math.ams.com!ash Thu May 20 23:49:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17339 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!ams.com!e-math.ams.com!ash From: ash@ulysses.mr.ams.com (Alan Harder) Subject: Re: Apple Trees In-Reply-To: pms5s@galen.med.Virginia.EDU's message of Sun, 16 May 1993 14:21:04 GMT Message-ID: Sender: news@e-math.ams.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: ulysses.mr.ams.com Organization: American Math. Society References: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 14:54:06 GMT Lines: 25 In article pms5s@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (Patricia M. Shannon) writes: >We have two healthy three year old apple trees in our front >yard and have only had three blossoms last year with no fruit. >This year, we have no blossoms. Please let me know via e-mail >what I should be feeding them and when. Thanks in advance. Sorry I can't answer your question. We have two 25 year old large apple trees in our back yard, and every year they are COVERED with blossoms. Then, in the fall, we pick up those dang apples for EVER. Is there some sort of spray that will discourage the blossoms from producing fruit? It really puts a strain on our composter when we add all of those apples. -Alan Harder ash@math.ams.org The above commentary, which does not *even* represent the opinion of the American Mathematical Society, is sold by weight, not by volume. Some settling of the contents may have occurred during shipping. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.tek.com!tekig7!gaulandm Thu May 20 23:49:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17341 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.tek.com!tekig7!gaulandm From: gaulandm@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM (Mike Gauland) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Silt in Garden Well Message-ID: <10023@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM> Date: 19 May 93 13:52:56 GMT Distribution: usa Organization: Tektronix Inc., Beaverton, OR Lines: 11 Our garden well has starting pumping very silty water. In the past, the water always cleared after a few minutes, but this stuff keeps comin' and comin'. What causes this, and what can be done about it? This is very fine silt, so I don't think it's as simple as installing/replacing a filter. Thanks, Mike -- Michael A. Gauland gaulandm@tekig7.PEN.TEK.COM AA7JF (503) 627-5067 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!desperado.lerc.nasa.gov!dvandrei Thu May 20 23:49:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17342 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!desperado.lerc.nasa.gov!dvandrei From: dvandrei@desperado.lerc.nasa.gov (Don Van Drei) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Request for Info: Trees Date: 19 May 1993 14:45:32 GMT Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 8 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdh6c$s0d@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> Reply-To: dvandrei@lerc.nasa.gov NNTP-Posting-Host: desperado.lerc.nasa.gov I'm looking for an electronic source for information about tree species? -- ----------------------------------------------------- Donald Van Drei NASA Lewis Research Center dvandrei@desperado.lerc.nasa.gov (216) 433-9089 ----------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!zeno.fit.edu!zach.fit.edu!lipofsky Thu May 20 23:49:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17343 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!zeno.fit.edu!zach.fit.edu!lipofsky From: lipofsky@zach.fit.edu (Judy Lipofsky (ACS)) Subject: Re: lilac question Message-ID: Sender: news@zeno.fit.edu (USENET NEWS SYSTEM) Nntp-Posting-Host: zach.fit.edu Organization: Florida Institute of Technology, Melbourne, FL USA References: <1993May14.215112.18763@math.ucla.edu> <1993May18.214317.1373@calmasd.prime.com> Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 14:29:12 GMT Lines: 25 In article <1993May18.214317.1373@calmasd.prime.com> jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) writes: >In article <1993May14.215112.18763@math.ucla.edu>, ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: >> Is there such a thing as a lilac (Syringia) that grows in very low >> winter chill climates? I know about ceanothus, but I don't want >> one. I want a real lilac bush with the old fashioned purple flowers >> that smell to high heaven. Where I live, I can grow and fruit >> tropical guavas (psidium guajava) so it really has to tolerate >> a lo-chill lifestyle. Or should I just give up and move to >> minnesota? > >Yes, there are low chill syringia that will bloom in So Cal. However, >I forget where I've seem them. Even though they are lilacs, they >don't bloom well and are kinda spindly compaired to the ones back >east. I don't think they are worth the garden space. > >Are you sure you won't reconsider ceanothus? They are reliable >bloomers and do well without supplemental water. Or how about a >budelia? They look kinda like a lilac. > >Jim Descanso Gardens near L.A. (La Canada ?) has real lilacs. They were blooming in early April when I was there and smelled heavenly. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!desperado.lerc.nasa.gov!dvandrei Thu May 20 23:49:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17344 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!desperado.lerc.nasa.gov!dvandrei From: dvandrei@desperado.lerc.nasa.gov (Don Van Drei) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peonies and Ants Date: 19 May 1993 14:50:21 GMT Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 30 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdhfd$s0d@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> References: <24250@mindlink.bc.ca> Reply-To: dvandrei@lerc.nasa.gov NNTP-Posting-Host: desperado.lerc.nasa.gov In article <24250@mindlink.bc.ca>, Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: |> In response to Dave Bradford: dave@maven.b29.ingr.com |> |> >Why are ants (usually big black ones) always on my peonies? They seem |> >to start accumulating there when the flower buds swell up. I have looked |> >for aphids and I can't see any evidence of them. Are the ants after some |> >nectar? I have no noticable damage to the blooms or plant. |> |> I had exactly this same question about my peonies last year. Ants, usually |> big black ones, running all over the peony buds when they started to swell |> up. I watched them really carefully and, like you, couldn't see that they |> were doing any damage to the blooms or the plant and also never saw an aphid. |> Working on the principle that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", I decided to |> leave everything alone and just watch the situation. The flowers bloomed |> beautifully, clearly the buds hadn't been damaged, and as soon as the flowers |> came into bloom all the ants seemed to disappear. So, I can't answer your |> "why it happens" question but I can assure you that it isn't unusual (I have |> since talked to several peony growers around here who report the same |> sequence) and better yet you don't need to do anything about it except |> possibly take a magnifying glass out and watch the show. -Moira Carlson |> I had a neighbor spray his peonies to kill the ants a few years back and they didn't bloom. He hypothized that the ants were helping the buds to break and without them they didn't bloom. -- ----------------------------------------------------- Donald Van Drei NASA Lewis Research Center dvandrei@desperado.lerc.nasa.gov (216) 433-9089 ----------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb Thu May 20 23:49:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17345 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb From: barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Where to buy dwarf apple trees? Date: 19 May 1993 15:04:11 GMT Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH Lines: 27 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdi9b$f8@meaddata.meaddata.com> References: <1453300192@igc.apc.org> <1tbvvaINNe6o@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: firstaid.meaddata.com In article <1tbvvaINNe6o@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU>, kip@space.mit.edu (Karolen I. Paularena) writes: |> |> I just couldn't let this pass. I would be perfectly happy not to "waste" |> space in my garden on apples, IF I could find the varieties I wanted in |> the market. The only time I've been able to eat a Russet (antique variety) |> apple that I purchased was off of one tree at a "pick-your-own" orchard. |> I don't know if a home-grown Red Delicious is better than a (not cold |> storage) supermarket apple, but I sure like the broad choices I get if I |> pick what I want to grow... I absolutely agree. I love the tangy varieties (Jonathan, Macintosh, etc.), and the only place you can find them is in local orchards, and even those don't seem to taste right any more. (Organically grown food is supposed to taste better; if I could find an organic orchard nearby, I'd be thrilled.) To me, a Red Delicious in a grocery store is just a beautiful, unblemished, red space-occupier. Not worth eating. -- Barbara Bruns Technical Communications & Education Mead Data Central barb@meaddata.com P.O. Box 933 ...!uunet!meaddata!barb Dayton, OH 45401 The opinions expressed here by me are not necessarily those of Mead Data Central; nor would they much care about the things about which I have opinions. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu!LAURETT Thu May 20 23:49:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17346 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu!LAURETT From: LAURETT@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu Subject: Nonblooming Iris Message-ID: <16BD398E6.LAURETT@YaleVM.YCC.Yale.Edu> Sender: news@news.yale.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: yalevm.ycc.yale.edu Organization: Yale University Date: Wed, 19 May 93 10:52:22 EDT Lines: 6 I have iris in the same bed, only a foot apart, one group which is blooming gloriously, and the other group with dry flower buds which are obviously not going to bloom at all! I also have a bed in another part of the yard with the same dry buds. Is this from lack of water, overcrowding,or some parasite? Last year the leaves were infested with aphids, but not this year. Please tell me about iris! Thanks, Lisa Miller From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Thu May 20 23:49:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17347 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Re: Help: Potato Seedlings Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 15:23:08 GMT References: <1t8tme$eet@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 15 Many thanks to all the respondants on this. The best clue I got was from Karen K. at Adobe (sorry, I lost the message) who told me to look for leaves that came up in a bunched rosette. Sure enough, yesterday I found a couple of small, bunched rosettes coming up... BTW, I've noticed that just about all respondants seem to be suffering from a Dan Quayle infection -- spelling potato with an "e". Interestingly, I've noticed that I frequently do that (unless I catch it) and always have -- and I'm a pretty good speller. I'm convinced I grew up being taught that "potatoe" was an accepted alternative spelling, in which case Danny probably took more flak than he deserved. Again, thanks to one and all. Gary Hypes From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker Thu May 20 23:49:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17348 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker From: fzbaker@dale.ucdavis.edu (Sharon D. Baker) Subject: Re: American Rose Society Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Administrator) Organization: University of California, Davis X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3 References: <1993May18.143406.2118@VFL.Paramax.COM> Distribution: usa Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 15:51:27 GMT Lines: 17 A membership in the American Rose Society obtains the following benefits: Eleven issues of The American Rose magazine; The Handbook for Selecting Roses; The American Rose Annual; access to the ARS Library, two annual ARS member meetings and national rose shows, a membership card that identifies you as a member and entitles you to discounts on ARS products and programs. Annual Regular membership-- $32.00; Annual Senior (age 65 or over)--$30.00. The American Rose Society, P.O. Box 30000, Shreveport, Louisiana 71130-0030. Credit card orders can be phoned (318)938-5402 or FAXed (318)938-5405. -- Sharon D. Baker sdbaker@ucdavis.edu (916) 752-9946 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!purdue!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan Thu May 20 23:49:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17349 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!purdue!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan From: dkaplan@lion.prime.com (Debbie Kaplan {x6084}) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Message-ID: <5225@cvbnetPrime.COM> Date: 19 May 93 15:45:25 GMT References: Sender: postnews@cvbnetPrime.COM Organization: Computervision, A Prime Computer Company, Bedford, MA, USA Lines: 67 In article dwilbert@bbn.com (Deborah Wilbert) writes: >farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: > >>About this time last year, I volunteered to do a Wildflower FAQ. (no, Kay, I >>didn't forget. I started a project on Trillium, entered graduate school, >>applied to the UTK Botany department, and took the GRE -- it's been a busy >>year). Anyway, I still want to do it if there's enough demand for one. >>(I don't see many posts on wildflowers). > >>So, do y'all want one, and what kinds of things to you want to see in it? > >I'm particularly interested in woodland wildflowers, as it seems to be >the best way to deal with shady areas of the yard. Trillium is a great >start. BTW, I saw an unusual Trillium for sale at the Garden in the >Woods, MA (where all plants are propagated from seed, not >"harvested"). The flower was beatiful-- very full, looked almost like >a gardenia blossom. The drawback: $62.00 for one plant! > >So, for woodland flowers, I think we should discuss suitability for >shady gardens, responsible purchasing, good flower combinations (to >lengthen the blooming season), etc. > >BTW, does anyone know the story on Lady's Slippers? I used to see the >pink variety sometimes in the woods behind my parents house, but I >haven't seen any in years. I looked last Sunday because I know they >have just started to bloom around here. What sort of changes would >cause the Lady's Slippers to die out? Are they still around but just >not blooming? Could they be successfully be reintroduced? (I know they >are very hard to get; I know I don't want to buy plants which were >gathered from the wild, etc) > >Thanks, >-Deborah Wilbert I'm also very interesting in wildflowers and native shrubs, particularly for shady areas. I particularly like the ericaceous species, like azaleas, wintergreen, rhodora, box huckleberry, low-bush blueberry, mountain laurel, pippisewa especially. They go together so well and they're great for acid soil. I'd be interested in hearing about propagation successes and failures. I've heard that trillium is extremely difficult to propagate - although $62 still seems a little high. Was this an unusual variety? The New England Wildflower Society does have some one-of-a-kind cultivars. Sometimes discussions of wildflowers get limited to perrenials. I'd like to see native ferns, shrubs and trees included. Experiences with different soil types and microclimates with natives would also be fun. As far as pink lady slippers go, they are certainly still around in certain areas. They tend to grow in white pine dominated woods. Leominster State Forest in north-central Mass. is a great place to see masses of them. Lady slippers are symbiotic with certain soil fungi ( meaning that the fungus benefits the plant and the plant benefits the fungus ). I believe orchid seeds in general require the symbiotic fungus to be present in the soil in order to germinate. So if the soil structure is disturbed, or the plant is introduced to an area without the fungus, it is very hard for the plant to survive and often impossible for seeds to spout. Usual techniques for transplanting lady slippers ( NOT from the wild ) involve moving as large a mass of soil with the plant as possible. In the woods around your parents' house, have any trees been cut or could too many people have dug them up or picked them? Maybe the tree canopy just became too full in that area for lady slippers to survive? Debbie Kaplan From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!comp.vuw.ac.nz!surrey.amigans.gen.nz!lynx Thu May 20 23:49:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17350 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!comp.vuw.ac.nz!surrey.amigans.gen.nz!lynx From: lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: bamboo Message-ID: Date: 19 May 93 20:54:42 GMT-12 References: <1993May14.215008.18703@math.ucla.edu> <1993May14.200725.13178@iscsvax.uni.edu> Distribution: world Organization: Prime Line, Wanganui, New Zealand Lines: 22 In article <1993May14.200725.13178@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >In article <1993May14.215008.18703@math.ucla.edu>, ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: >> Isn't the split leaf philodendron the one that produces >> an edible fruit. I can't remember the genus name of what >> I am thinking about (Kay, help!!) but the species name >> is "monsterosa." >Monstera deliciosa. "Delicious monster". Nice flavor, but >lousy little glochids that stick in your tongue. I'm gonna have >to find out a better way of eating it.... ;-) Glochids. So _that's_ what they're called. Even the name sounds like what they is - de gotchas in de glottis. Wonder if you get glossitis from eating them. Neat name... How about stripping the fruit... um capsules? off and tossing them into a fruit salad. We found that seemed to deal to the glochids but I fear the flavour of the fruit was somewhat lost. -- lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz lynx@amigans.gen.nz From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan Thu May 20 23:49:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17351 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan From: dkaplan@lion.prime.com (Debbie Kaplan {x6084}) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: tarragon herb Message-ID: <5227@cvbnetPrime.COM> Date: 19 May 93 15:51:45 GMT References: Sender: postnews@cvbnetPrime.COM Organization: Computervision, A Prime Computer Company, Bedford, MA, USA Lines: 11 In article jtmorgan@chopin.udel.edu (James Morgan) writes: >I am growing tarragon and it has no flavor at all like what I can buy fresh in >my grocery store. Is there something I must do special in cultivating this? There are several varieties plant sold as tarragon. From what I've heard, the Russian tarragon has little or no flavor, but the French tarragon is the one to use. Less than reputable nurseries tend to sell the former. Perhaps it's easier to propagate. Debbie Kaplan From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan Thu May 20 23:49:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17352 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!bu.edu!cvbnet!lion!dkaplan From: dkaplan@lion.prime.com (Debbie Kaplan {x6084}) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sphagnum Moss vs. Peat Moss Message-ID: <5229@cvbnetPrime.COM> Date: 19 May 93 16:06:57 GMT References: <1tap1nINNffk@news.u.washington.edu> Sender: postnews@cvbnetPrime.COM Distribution: na Organization: Computervision, A Prime Computer Company, Bedford, MA, USA Lines: 13 In article <1tap1nINNffk@news.u.washington.edu> lamantia@hardy.u.washington.edu (Stephen Lamantia) writes: >The peat moss I bought says on the bag "Canadian sphagnum peat >moss," and the nursery folks said it'd be okay. However, a book >I have (Ortho's "Gardening Techniques") says: > > "Sphagnum moss is sometimes confused with peat moss; The peat moss you have bought is decomposed sphagnum moss. It's perfectly OK to add it to the soil. WATER IT WELL. Peat moss tends to not absorb water when completely dry. It will take much longer than you think to moisten it. Ironically, once it is moist, it tends to retain moisture. Debbie Kaplan From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!ogicse!lclark!klotz Thu May 20 23:49:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17353 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!ogicse!lclark!klotz From: klotz@lclark.edu (Gretchen Klotz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Want to Transplant Pine Bush: Help! Message-ID: <1993May19.163444.1837@lclark.edu> Date: 19 May 93 16:34:44 GMT Article-I.D.: lclark.1993May19.163444.1837 Organization: Lewis & Clark College, Portland OR Lines: 31 Howdy all! I've just moved into a new house, and while I'm concentrating on getting the vegetable garden going now, there are some other garden-related chores I'm planning for. The biggest of these is this: There is an ornamental pine "bush" that has gotten out of hand, and it's crowding the path where the garbage can is stored. The landlord gave us permission to trim it, cut it down or move it. We'd like to move it, but there are some complicating factors. The bush itself if ~8 feet tall, and ~6 feet in diameter. It grows ~1-1/2 feet away from a 14 foot dogwood that is just finishing blooming. Two feet on the opposite side from the dogwood is a bed of irises that are blooming. The cement front steps and the cement path are about 2 feet away from the trunk on the other 2 sides. My questions: can this "bush" be moved safely, without extensive damage to it or any of the surrounding plants? How large a root ball should we leave? When is the best time of year to do this? (I'm planning on separating the irises in the fall anyhow -- they need more room.) Anything else we should be considering? Thanks! - Gretchen (tired of getting whacked in the face when taking out the garbage -- it's a disagreeable enough chore with out the added injury!) -- Searching for a deep and meaningful .sig that sums up my existence, philosophy, perspective, mood and/or wish for the planet in 4 lines or less... From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!walter!thumper!dfw Thu May 20 23:49:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17354 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!walter!thumper!dfw From: dfw@thumper..bellcore.com (Doris Woods) Subject: Re: can anyone ID this vine? Message-ID: <1993May19.165506.2670@walter.bellcore.com> Summary: Wysteria? Sender: news@walter.bellcore.com Nntp-Posting-Host: thumper.bellcore.com Reply-To: dfw@thumper.UUCP (Doris Woods) Organization: Bellcore MRE References: Date: Wed, 19 May 93 16:55:06 GMT Lines: 25 In article bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org writes: > Some description deleted >Each flower has its own stem arising from the vine. The flowers >are up to 2 inches long, white on the outside, violet/purple at the >tip and on the inside. The petals never separate; they form a >continuous trumpet-shaped entity; tucked inward at the open end, >creating an "imploded trumpet" appearance. When the flower is open >and you look into the open end, there seem to be 5 white stripes/ >arrows against the violet background pointing into the flower. >There are five stamens of various lengths, to 0.75 inches long; >filaments white; anthers lavender frosted with white pollen. >The stigma is more or less surrounded by the anthers. > >====================================================================== >Rick Harrison 71174.2735@compuserve.com >Box 54-7014, Orlando FL 32854 USA bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org Except for the external white of the flower this almost sounds like a wysteria vine. They are absolutely beautiful and very fragrant. I could be wrong though. Doris From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet Thu May 20 23:49:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17355 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet From: H_TRAGGIS@unhh.unh.edu (Hannah Traggis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Killing aphids, safe and very EASY Date: 19 May 1993 14:26:26 GMT Organization: University of New Hampshire Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdg2i$d5g@mozz.unh.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: unhh.unh.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.12 Here is the easiest, most effective and just, as a bonus, happens to be the cheapest way I have found to get rid of aphids! Take a standard size spray bottle (maybe about 1/2 gallon or less) and fill with water. To this, add one or two drops of dish detergent, doesn't have to be a highly concentrated mixture and you don't want it to be very sudsy... you can also add a drop of ammonia, if you wish... this has been effective with white fly too, but for sure.... It kills ahpids ON THE SPOT! From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet Thu May 20 23:49:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17356 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet From: H_TRAGGIS@unhh.unh.edu (Hannah Traggis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: ants Date: 19 May 1993 14:34:16 GMT Organization: University of New Hampshire Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdgh8$d5g@mozz.unh.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: unhh.unh.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.12 I've heard that a VERY strong solution of garlic and water is supposed to deter quite a few bugs... take any old garlic heads or some new ones if you feel like buying special for the occaision ( :) ) and squish them into any old glass jar which has a top that can screwed down ( i used an old vinegar jar, but anything will do... ) fill this jar with water and let it sit out in the sun all the time... or at least until it gets strong... it's not a "picky" mixture... you can keep adding water and garlic to this all summer... just pour in on the ant mounds or the plants they choose to inhabit... nasty little things! It keeps my friends out of my garden so maybe it will help with the ants... :) From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet Thu May 20 23:49:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17357 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!mozz.unh.edu!usenet From: H_TRAGGIS@unhh.unh.edu (Hannah Traggis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RE: ants and your peonies Date: 19 May 1993 14:38:09 GMT Organization: University of New Hampshire Lines: 6 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tdgoh$d5g@mozz.unh.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: unhh.unh.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.12 Hi! The ants help the peonies open up... they collect the sugar solution which holds the buds tightly shut... they collect it and eat it and the plants get to open their beautiful flowers for you!!! nice symbiosis huh? :) From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!ogicse!lclark!klotz Thu May 20 23:49:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17358 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!ogicse!lclark!klotz From: klotz@lclark.edu (Gretchen Klotz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Moon Gardening/Dark of the Moon Revisited Message-ID: <1993May19.174320.5870@lclark.edu> Date: 19 May 93 17:43:20 GMT Article-I.D.: lclark.1993May19.174320.5870 Organization: Lewis & Clark College, Portland OR Lines: 42 Wanted to follow-up to the recent thread on this. I re-read the articles I'd saved, and while someone posted *about* Ed Hume's _1993 Garden Almanac_, they didn't post how to get it. I just borrowed a friend's copy, and am really delighted with it. I wasn't planning on practicing moon gardening this year, but since rototilling is taking S-O-O-O L-O-N-G and I'm going away this weekend, I'll be right on the moon's schedule next week. Hooray! >From the introduction: Moon gardening is certainly nothing new. It has been passed down through many generations. There are firm believers in moon gardening today who will not plant anything unless a favorable moon sign is indicated. Just as the moon's gravitational pull influences the ocean's tide, it is theorized that it also influences the movement of fluids contained in plants. Moon gardening is based on this belief. It has not been scientifically proven or disproved but subscribers report continued success from this method. This 1993 Garden Almanac will serve as a handy reference guide for the best dates for mowing [to increase growth *or* retard growth], fertilizing, harvesting, canning, drying, and grafting. Dates are included for watering and composting. There is a wealth of information in the booklet that will lead you to successful gardening. This booklet can be adapted to anywhere in the United States and Canada, weather permitting. If moon-based astrological gardening appeals to you, you can order the booklet by sending $2 (includes shipping and handling) to: Ed Hume Seeds 1993 Almanac PO Box 1450 Kent, WA 98035 Enjoy! - Gretchen (no connections, just excited about a new discovery :-) -- Searching for a deep and meaningful .sig that sums up my existence, philosophy, perspective, mood and/or wish for the planet in 4 lines or less... From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!News.MR.Net!noc.msc.net!ns!ns!guy Thu May 20 23:49:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17360 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!News.MR.Net!noc.msc.net!ns!ns!guy From: guy@ns.network.com (Guy D'Andrea) Subject: Re: Peonies and Ants Message-ID: <1993May19.175431.12270@ns.network.com> Sender: news@ns.network.com Nntp-Posting-Host: ns Organization: Network Systems Corporation References: <24250@mindlink.bc.ca> <1tdhfd$s0d@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> Date: Wed, 19 May 93 17:54:31 GMT Lines: 26 In article <1tdhfd$s0d@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> dvandrei@lerc.nasa.gov writes: >In article <24250@mindlink.bc.ca>, Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >|> In response to Dave Bradford: dave@maven.b29.ingr.com >|> >|> >Why are ants (usually big black ones) always on my peonies? They seem >|> >to start accumulating there when the flower buds swell up. I have looked >|> >for aphids and I can't see any evidence of them. Are the ants after some >|> >nectar? I have no noticable damage to the blooms or plant. >|> >|> I had exactly this same question about my peonies last year. Ants, usually >|> big black ones, running all over the peony buds when they started to swell >|> up. I watched them really carefully and, like you, couldn't see that they >|> were doing any damage to the blooms or the plant > >I had a neighbor spray his peonies to kill the ants a few years back and they >didn't bloom. He hypothized that the ants were helping the buds to break and >without them they didn't bloom. >Donald Van Drei NASA Lewis Research Center >dvandrei@desperado.lerc.nasa.gov (216) 433-9089 >----------------------------------------------------- Yes this is true. The glue-like substance that holds the buds together, is taken/eaten? by the ants allowing the buds to open. If there are no ants, the buds DO NOT open! Weird but true stories!!!! ;-) From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn Thu May 20 23:49:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17361 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn From: wvhorn@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (William VanHorne) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: POison Iva horror stories Date: 19 May 1993 18:37:15 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 14 Message-ID: <1tduor$9ph@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <1993May7.103716.1@uncavx.unca.edu> <1993May17.112100.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: photon.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article <1993May17.112100.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca writes: >I've heard of people thinking that a good way to rid their yard or >cottage of poison ivy is to burn it, then they make the big mistake >of inhaling some of the smoke which contains the active oils, leading >to a rather grim death from poison ivy inflammation in the lungs. >Don't know if this is really truth or legend, but it's certainly the >worst poison ivy horror story I've heard. My brother got a case of poison ivy in his lungs from using a weed-whacker and not noticing that he was whacking poison ivy. It is indeed nasty. But I must say I've never heard of anyone dying from it. ---Bill VanHorne From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!ibmpcug!uujohn!john Thu May 20 23:49:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17362 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!ibmpcug!uujohn!john From: john@uujohn.ibmpcug.co.uk (J Critchley) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,connect.audit Subject: Re: My poor tomato plant Message-ID: <0T2s4B2w165w@uujohn.ibmpcug.co.uk> Date: Wed, 19 May 93 17:18:56 BST References: Distribution: world Organization: John's PC at home Lines: 29 chrisc@ibmpcug.co.uk (Chris Cook) writes: > Tomatoes are really easy to take cuttings from. If your toddler snaps off > a helthy top, take the remains indoors, plant it in damp compost and most > times the snapped-off bit will root like crazy - hormone powder not essential > - and after 2 weeks or so can be replanted as a fresh plant. I remember doing this with my Dad'd tomato plants when I was very young. Every week he went round taking out the side-shoots. Once I suggested trying to stick one on a bit of ground (not compost) to see if it would grow. It did. From that time on I always stuck these side shoots in compost. (they had to be big enough to come off the parent plant cleanly) There must have been about an 80% success rate, with 4-8 good sized tomatos on each little plant. Considering how many side shoots that we got, this was a considerable number. -John ________________________________________________________________________________ Ob quote: "I totally disagree" -Tayfun ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ John Critchley - System Manager, ibmpcug The IBM PC User Group, PO Box 360 Tel. 081-863 1191 Fax: 081-863 6095 Harrow HA1 4LQ, ENGLAND Email: j_critchley@ibmpcug.co.uk Path: ..!uunet!pipex!ibmpcug!j_critchley Personal: Email: john@uujohn.ibmpcug.co.uk Path: ..!uunet!pipex!ibmpcug!uujohn!john From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Thu May 20 23:49:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17363 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Apple Trees Message-ID: <1993May19.184314.1828@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 18:43:14 GMT Lines: 24 In article ash@ulysses.mr.ams.com (Alan Harder) writes: >We have two 25 year old large apple trees in our back yard, and every >year they are COVERED with blossoms. Then, in the fall, we pick up >those dang apples for EVER. Is there some sort of spray that will >discourage the blossoms from producing fruit? It really puts a strain >on our composter when we add all of those apples. I don't know how to stop the fruit from forming, but you could get rid of the apples by putting a box of them out in your office coffee room (we had a produce exchange at Addison-Wesley Publishing that worked on the honor system: bring in your surplus zucchini; take home a basket of strawberries). In my current job people bring in apricots, apples, plums, and various crops that overproduce. Anyone is welcome to help himself to a reasonable amount, and we don't keep score. Another idea: call your local food bank or homeless aid society. They might even come pick up the apples for you. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!susan Thu May 20 23:49:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17366 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!susan From: susan@noaapmel.gov (Susan L. Collicott) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Latin names (my favorite) Date: 19 May 93 12:54:22 Organization: NOAA/PMEL, Sand Point Way, Seattle, WA Lines: 8 Message-ID: References: <1993May7.102743.1@uncavx.unca.edu> <1993May13.114810.13134@iscsvax.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: felix.noaapmel.gov In-reply-to: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu's message of 13 May 93 05:48:10 GMT My favorite latin name is a tree - Psuedotsuga Menzesii. (Dang nab it, the last part always gets me on the spelling.) I love rolling that one out. I like the family name Hippocastanaceae. Susan Collicott susan@noaapmel.gov From samba!concert!decwrl!adobe!kfoster Thu May 20 23:49:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17367 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!decwrl!adobe!kfoster From: kfoster@adobe.com (Kathleen Foster) Subject: Bugs Message-ID: <1993May19.201206.17156@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated Distribution: usa Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 20:12:06 GMT Lines: 10 Help - my garden has been invaded by airwhigs and pill bugs (sow bugs??). What can I do to organically get rid of these pests? They are now chomping through my second planting of basil :-( My black turtle beans are gone and I don't know where to get replacements quickly. My eggplants on on the verge of extinction. I live in Redwood City, CA. I've tried a thin layer of wood ash and Safticide spray. It seems to slow them down a little but not much. Does anything work? Thanks in advance. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!buyer Thu May 20 23:49:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17368 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!buyer From: buyer@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Janet Buyer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: My rhododendron didn't flower Message-ID: <36077@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 19 May 93 21:49:02 GMT Reply-To: buyer@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Janet Buyer) Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 13 My parents 20-year old rhododendron didn't flower this spring, although it has every other year. My sister says she fertilized it with a fertilizer made especially for rhododendrons and did so according to the directions, including when they recommended it should be fertilized. I don't think we ever fertilized it before except for an occasional splash with Miracid a few summers ago. Was it the fertilizer that made it not flower this year? We also cut down a maple tree that was right next to it about a month ago, so it may be getting slightly more sun than before. Does anyone have any comments or suggestions? Thanks in advance, Janet Buyer From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Thu May 20 23:49:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17369 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Re: Where to buy dwarf apple trees? Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 21:52:56 GMT References: <1tdi9b$f8@meaddata.meaddata.com> Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 8 >From a dwarf, of course.... :-) Seriously, I'd try Stark Bros. I've seen their catalog, and they look impressive, although I've never ordered from them. However, I did see some of their trees in a local nursery, and I was very impressed with their quality. - Gary Hypes - From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Thu May 20 23:49:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17370 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Re: Planting tomatoes (was Q: pepper seedlings) Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 22:09:42 GMT References: Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 8 Bruce A. Moon (bmoon@eis.calstate.edu) wrote: : Should I stop using my chickens' manure and switch? Why in the world are you using a switch on your tomato plants? ;-) Gary Hypes From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Thu May 20 23:49:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17371 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Re: Fixing a Wheelbarrow Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 22:11:08 GMT Distribution: usa References: Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 4 I took my wheel into the local tire shop and they fixed it for about $5. I didn't ask what they did, and don't care. It works fine now! Gary Hypes From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!racerx!ken Thu May 20 23:49:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17372 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!racerx!ken From: ken@racerx.bridge.COM (Ken Hardy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP -- wild violets are taking over my lawn Keywords: violets, zone 6 Message-ID: <1635@racerx.bridge.COM> Date: 19 May 93 21:24:48 GMT References: <1993May17.150232.3720@icd.ab.com> <93138.123512RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> Distribution: na Organization: Planet Earth Lines: 22 In article <93138.123512RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET (Robert Chambers) writes: >Wild violates (:-) >I replanted a lot along a pathway and they come up quite nicely.. talk about >hard to kill.. I kept getting them in a half-shaded area that I had problems deciding what sort of flower or ground-cover to grow. It eventually dawned on me that if they wanted to grow there so badly (and so cheaply!), I'd be a fool to fight them. I dug up others from lawn, etc., and transplanted them. ==> This doesn't answer the original question of erradication, but it makes the point that there's nothing like a good and eager _native_ plant to take the effort out of gardening. Oh, and I second the part about them not harming a lawn; my grandmother's grass has been cohabitating with them for decades. -- Ken Hardy ken@bridge.com (racerx!ken) From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!wsrcc.com!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!tellab5!verive Thu May 20 23:49:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17373 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!wsrcc.com!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!tellab5!verive From: verive@tellabs.com (Jeff Verive) Subject: Re: Sphagnum Moss vs. Peat Moss Message-ID: <1993May19.140021.21207@tellab5.tellabs.com> Sender: news@tellab5.tellabs.com (News) Nntp-Posting-Host: tellab1 Organization: Tellabs, Lisle, IL References: <1tap1nINNffk@news.u.washington.edu> Distribution: na Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 14:00:21 GMT Lines: 14 Whether you have decomposed peat moss or not, adding *either* to crummy soil will do a world of good. Especially in areas where soil is 50% clay and 50% rock (and concrete chunks) or in extremely sandy soils, virtually any organic supplement will prove beneficial. After adding any supplement, however, do be sure to check soil pH and correct it if necessary. Perfect loam with a pH outside the range of 5-7 usually spells trouble with a capital T. -- **************************************************************************** ** Jeff Verive | If they ever stop making those little candy flowers ** ** 259371048378 | for birthday cakes, I shall lose my will to live. ** **************************************************************************** From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams Thu May 20 23:49:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17374 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams) Subject: Re: POison Iva horror stories Message-ID: <1993May19.151433.19514@hemlock.cray.com> Lines: 29 Nntp-Posting-Host: cherry10 Reply-To: dadams@cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1tduor$9ph@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Date: 19 May 93 15:14:33 CDT In article 9ph@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu, wvhorn@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (William VanHorne) writes: |In article <1993May17.112100.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca writes: |>I've heard of people thinking that a good way to rid their yard or |>cottage of poison ivy is to burn it, then they make the big mistake |>of inhaling some of the smoke which contains the active oils, leading |>to a rather grim death from poison ivy inflammation in the lungs. |>Don't know if this is really truth or legend, but it's certainly the |>worst poison ivy horror story I've heard. | |My brother got a case of poison ivy in his lungs from using a weed-whacker |and not noticing that he was whacking poison ivy. It is indeed nasty. |But I must say I've never heard of anyone dying from it. | |---Bill VanHorne | I can remember an event that was reported in the local media when I was about 7 or 8 years old. I lived in Salt Lake City at the time. It seems that three hippie types were smoking what they thought was marijuana in Liberty Park. It turned out that the leafy substance was actually poison ivy. It seems that the three had to be hospitalized. I don't remember clearly, but it makes a nice story. ;^) --- --David C. Adams Statistician Cray Research Inc. dadams@cray.com Old cowboys never die. They just smell that way! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!sun-barr!male.EBay.Sun.COM!sedona.EBay.Sun.COM!ctyuan Thu May 20 23:49:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17375 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!sun-barr!male.EBay.Sun.COM!sedona.EBay.Sun.COM!ctyuan From: ctyuan@sedona.EBay.Sun.COM (Chi-Tao Yuan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Tree Seeds Company Info Needed Date: 19 May 1993 17:43:00 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Mt. View, Ca. Lines: 18 Distribution: na Message-ID: <1tdrj4$k9m@male.EBay.Sun.COM> Reply-To: ctyuan@sedona.EBay.Sun.COM (Chi-Tao Yuan) NNTP-Posting-Host: sedona.ebay.sun.com I will appreciate receiving info on sources who offer tree seeds. If it is of interest to you, I am particularly looking for tree seeds or trees which will not be bothered by oak root fugus. I am extremely disheartened by the loss of several of my beautiful osamanthus, the shrub-size plant with small, yellowish white, but extremely fragrant flowers in autumn, due to the above mentioned problem. Yes, I had no idea where the dead roots were until the plants started losing leaves. Any info leading into the tree seeds companies will be greatly appreciated. Chi From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!jethro.Corp.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!concertina!fiddler Thu May 20 23:49:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17376 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!jethro.Corp.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!concertina!fiddler From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: potato bugs Date: 19 May 1993 20:27:05 GMT Organization: Sun Lines: 45 Message-ID: References: <1453300197@igc.apc.org> <35143@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina In article <35143@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> deeds@solaria.hac.com writes: >Okay, this is sort of related. I want to know what these bugs are >(different than those mentioned). We have always called them >potato bugs, but they are not sow bugs, and I don't think they're >Colorado potato beetles. These are big (up to 2 or 3 inches long), >fat (half an inch or so diameter) insects. They're tan colored, and >striped-y on the abdomen, sort of blind looking, and shiny (they look >slimy to me but I've never touched one - ugh!). I have seen them jump >(they have sort of grasshopperry hind legs) when disturbed, but >they live under the ground. The cats like to dig them up and bat Sounds like the Jerusalem cricket or "child of the earth". They give my wife the willies (and when we lived in a place where we'd occasionally find scorpions in our bedrooom, she'd pick up the scorpions with chopsticks and toss them outside...but she'd call me in to deal with the jerusalem crickets, and go somewhere else while I did). If you can ever find a video copy of the film "The Helstrom Chronicle" from a few years ago, there is a sequence that has two of them fighting. The winner begins to eat the loser (and you can hear the crunching), and then the camera zooms back to show a grassy knoll under some shade trees, and a couple reclining on the grass having a picnic. You can still hear the crunching... The film came about because some producer found that his studio owned hours of the best insect footage taken up to that time. It was great. Except for the crunching. >I can't find these in the couple of insect ID books I own. >What are they? What do they eat? Are they bad? Are the huge, >pale-colored grubs I find in the compost heap their larvae, or are >those probably June/May beetles (we have those too)? Being of the order containing grasshopper, mantids, and crickets, the young should look like smaller versions of the adults, but without wings, assuming the adults have them. No grubs. Beetles have grubs. I think the order is Odonata, but don't bet on it. -- "...Then anyone who leaves behind him a written manual, and likewise anyone who receives it, in the belief that such writing will be clear and certain, must be exceedingly simple-minded..." Plato, _Phaedrus_ ------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc Thu May 20 23:49:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17377 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc From: billmc@microsoft.com (Bill McJohn) Subject: Re: Radish sans bulb Message-ID: <1993May19.170949.8772@microsoft.com> Date: 19 May 93 17:09:49 GMT Organization: Microsoft Corporation References: Lines: 15 In article mcgrew@ichthous.Eng.Sun.COM (Darin McGrew) writes: > >Why would a radish plant not grow a bulb, and even bolt without >growing a bulb? > The reasons I can think of for radishes not making satisfactory roots are overcrowding, insufficient water, and premature bolting. Bolting could be brought on by warm weather--this might (I'm guessing) be a particular problem in containers because the soil in containers warms up much faster than the ground; this is usually an advantage, but could be a real disadvantage for cool-weather crops. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!van-bc!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Thu May 20 23:49:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17378 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!van-bc!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Rhubarb Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 01:39:06 GMT Message-ID: <24466@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 40 In response to Barry: barry@tralee.cray.com >We have recently moved into a home. Among the plants sprouting >in the garden this spring is rhubarb. I have never grown or >eaten rhubarb. >Questions: >1) What parts are edible? Only the stalks are edible. Don't eat the leaves or roots. During World War I rhubarb leaves were recommended as a substitute for other vegies that the war made unavailable. Apparently there were cases of accute poisoning and even some deaths. My notes say: "Rhubarb contains a highly irritant anthraquinone, a glycoside. This compound rather than the oxalates is the suspect." >2) When should the edible parts be harvested? In my climate the time is right now. If the plant is in good condition you can keep picking until about the end of July. After that we stop so the plant has time to recover before the cold weather. If you have just newly planted rhubarb it is best to not pick it at all the first year and only lightly the second year until it gets well established. Also, don't cut the rhubarb stalks from the plant...snap them off. They will come away quite easily and this is much better for the plant. 3) What do I leave behind to assure a healthy plant next year? We don't pick after July and I never leave a plant with less than about three good stalks at any time. If you want healthy plants you should also feed them. Rhubarbs are "gross feeders" and will do much better for you if they get a good manure mulch in the fall. 4) Any good recipes? Any basic cookbook will have rhubarb recipes. You can stew it with sugar, bake it in a pie, make rhubarb crumble, etc., etc. I recommend checking in to Usenet.rec.food.cooking which has had lots of nifty rhubarb recipes go by lately. I have found that any rhubarb plant worth its salt always produces more rhubarb than we can ever manage to use up in desserts, so my fallback position is make wine with the stuff. Have fun. -Moira Carlson From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!van-bc!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Thu May 20 23:49:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17379 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!van-bc!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Sage Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 01:40:13 GMT Message-ID: <24467@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 18 In response to:Ilana Stern:ilana@kiowa.scd.ucar.edu >My sage appears to be about to flower. I planted it two years ago, and >this is the first time I have seen buds on it (one large reddish bud at >the top of each stem). Should I pinch them off, or allow them to flower? >(This is just ordinary garden sage, Salvia Something-or-other.) Ordinary garden sage is Salvia officinalis. My books suggest harvesting the leaves before the plant flowers, but quite frankly I have grown the stuff for years and never noticed that the timing made all that much different to the strength of the leaves. I just pick them when I want them. As for flowers, you are in for a treat. I would grow this sage just for the flowers even if I never used the leaves. Right now my sage is also about to flower. I have it planted in a bed where it is next to a big clump of Snow-in-Summer (Cerastium) and those purple sage blossoms above the white is lovely. I do dead-head the sage after flowering and give it a bit of a prune just to shape it. -Moira Carlson From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!fritz Thu May 20 23:50:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17380 of rec.gardens Xref: samba rec.gardens:17380 bionet.plants:1197 Newsgroups: rec.gardens,bionet.plants Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!fritz From: fritz@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (frederick.sitter) Subject: Norway Maple Tree Needs Help! Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T Distribution: na Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 18:06:06 GMT Lines: 39 I just started reading these groups, and don't know if my specific problem has been addressed, so please forgive me if it has. I hope the collective wisdom here can help me out. I've got an old Norway Maple tree in my back yard that appears to be dying. It has lots of dead limbs and its leaves are small - even for this early in the year. Plus, there are several clumps of "helicopter" seeds that it has not released. The deterioration started a couple of years ago. The local Tree & Lawn folks have been out a few times to trim dead branches and inject some "rejuvenation" concoction into the soil around the tree's base. Last fall, they removed something called a "girdling root," which they say may have been causing at least a partial strangulation. I've also watered the tree quite a bit. None of the efforts seem to have had much effect. Over the weekend, I cut off a couple of dead branches close to the ground. One had a hollow space in the center, out of which came several large (carpenter?) ants. Would they be the cause or the result of my tree's condition? I thought that ant-type bugs didn't destroy trees - only lived in them afterwards. I live in Maplewood, NJ. My house was built in the late 1920s, and the tree may be that old, too. Several houses in the neighborhood are of the same vintage, and have similar (but healthier!) trees planted in similar spots. It's a big old beautiful tree that shades almost the whole house from the afternoon summer sun. Please help me preserve it! Thanks - :):( :):( :):( :):( :):( :):( :):( :):( :):( :):( :):( :):( Fred Sitter | 201-984-7164 | "I'm too old to be a young talent." fritz@cbnewsg.cb.att.com| - Artie Shaugnessy att!attmail!sitter | From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!sdd.hp.com!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu May 20 23:50:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17381 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!sdd.hp.com!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wild provenance seed exchange Message-ID: <1993May18.155355.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 18 May 93 15:53:55 MDT References: <23732@acorn.co.uk> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 15 In article <23732@acorn.co.uk>, AWaddington@acorn.co.uk writes: > > I myself am seeking wild provenance seed from a couple of dozen tree species > native to the west of North America from Alaska to the Sierra Nevada of > California. I haven't been able to trace any commercial sources, as growers > normally sell trees as cuttings or transplants. Obviously this is not feasible > by transatlantic mail ! Well, there are commercial sources for mail order tree seeds, including a number of sources from the pacific northwest. Tell me what you're looking for and I'll look in "the mail-order gardener" to see if I can find an address for a place that might carry what you want. Don From samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu May 20 23:50:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17382 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Blooming annuals before last frost? Message-ID: <1993May18.161351.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 18 May 93 16:13:51 MDT References: <1seuij$ock@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 26 In article <1seuij$ock@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, ai888@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Thomas Flesher) writes: > > Intro from the article: "The annual flowers listed here won't be > harmed by unexpected late frosts. A late May snow can all but > bury these hardy annuals. They'll not only survive, but also go on > to provide a spectacular display of blooms." > > The list: > Pansy (Viola x wittrockiana) > Calendula (Calendula officinalis) > Flowering Kale (Brassica oleracea acephala) > Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus) > Flowering Tobacco (Nicotiana alata) > Strawflower (Helichrysum bracteatum) > Baby's Breath (Gypsophila elegans) > Petunia (Petunia x hybrida) > California Poppies (Eschscholzia californica) I'll certainly vouch for two of them. Some of my pansies survive our Alberta winters with green foliage intact, to bloom before the tulips. This winter two of maybe a dozen survived - this is under about 6" of snow cover, in temperatures that fell as low as -37C (-34F). As for California poppies, they are killed off in the fall after nights start hitting about -8C (18F), but I've had early germinating seedlings survive early spring frosts as cold as -16C (3F). From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu May 20 23:50:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17383 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Can I plants annuals over spring bulbs? Message-ID: <1993May18.162438.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 18 May 93 16:24:38 MDT References: <1993May7.225255.11889@ntmtv> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 24 In article <1993May7.225255.11889@ntmtv>, nguyenpd@ntmtv.com (Phat Nguyen) writes: > Hi, > > I have this problem regarding spring bulbs like tulips and daffodils. > Now the flowers are spent and the bed looks dry, so I want to plant > some annuals over it. However, I read gardening books and they say > that the bulbs should be kept dry during the summer season. Do I > have to dig them up before planting annuals? Can I just leave them > there and plant annuals over them? If I plant annuals on top and > then water the bed. Would the water ruin the bulbs? Any helpful > suggestions, shared experiences would be appreciated. Thanks in > advance! Last year I planted several kinds of plants in my bulb beds - annual poppies, perrenial (oriental) poppies, lilies, lupines. I watered these beds fairly liberally throughout the summer. This spring the tulips came back better than last year, and the perrenials in the bulb beds are growing vigorously now too. Just use plants that will grow taller than the tulips, and leave the tulip leaves to die back naturally. This will allow the bulbs to store energy for the next year, and the over-planted plants will grow above the tulips, hiding the dying tulip leaves from view. Don From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Thu May 20 23:50:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17384 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: "PREEN" for weed control Message-ID: <1993May19.225835.13222@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 19 May 93 22:58:35 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 16 In article , dlee@UIUC writes: > Does anyone out there have experience using a weed control product called " > PREEN" in their vegetable gardens? It's supposed to work by preventing > germination of weed seeds. It gets applied to a well-tilled garden after > vegetable transplants (or seedlings) are 3-4 inches tall. I looked at PREEN several eons ago, when it was brand new. At the time, it wasn't labeled for veggies, if I recall. I was hoping to use it on quack grass in an iris bed, but it wasn't suitable for that, either. Personally, I find mulches extremely satisfactory for veggies. One of my favorites is cardboard. As for the quackgrass in the iris, I'm still handweeding.... For annuals and most perennials, I mulch with grass clippings, wood chips, and/or sawdust. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Thu May 20 23:50:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17385 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP: Plants growing white and wilting Message-ID: <1993May19.230221.13223@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 19 May 93 23:02:21 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 14 In article , tlp@panix.com (Tracy Pendergast) writes: > I planted my seeds and watched them sprout. So > far so good. I transplanted them into window > boxes. Again, so far so good. > > AND THEN... they started to turn white and wilt. Were these really close to a nice, warm, south or west-facing window? Kinda sounds like sunburn and/or heat problems to me. Most seedlings like soil temps of 70-75oF, and air temps of 60-65. Kind of a trick to achieve in your average window sill without good ventilation. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson Thu May 20 23:50:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17386 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Newly Updated Source List Message-ID: <30.2bf9e6fa@axolotl> Date: 18 May 93 19:27:52 CST Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City Sender: news@axolotl.omahug.org (UUscan 1.10) Followup-To: rec.gardens Lines: 25 The Andersen Horticultural Library has finally updated their _Source List of Plants and Seeds_. This book is about 50 pages longer than the 1989 _Source List_ and contains an expanded list of mail-order nurseries and plants. Plants are listed in alphabetical order by Latin name, then by cultivar. Code numbers, which follow every entry, refer to the nurseries that carry the plant, and a key of nurseries, complete with addresses and telephone numbers, is given in the front of the book. To obtain a copy of the _Source List_, send $34.95 (postpaid) to the Andersen Horticultural Library, Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, 3675 Arboretum Drive, Chanhassen, MN 55317-0039. This has been posted for informational purposes only. Standard disclaimers apply. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Bob Batson bob.batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org | Primary address bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org | Backup address ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Under the most controlled conditions, the experimental apparatus will do exactly as it pleases. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!att!gtephx!schiefferr Thu May 20 23:50:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17387 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!att!gtephx!schiefferr From: schiefferr@gtephx.UUCP (Ron Schieffer) Subject: When to harvest potatoes in AZ Message-ID: <1993May19.165924.6596@gtephx.UUCP> Organization: gte Distribution: usa Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 16:59:24 GMT Lines: 26 Harvesting potatoes already??? I don't normally try to grow potatoes here in Phoenix. This one plant came up after tossing some food waste into the garden in the off season (just happened to contain one rotting potato). Anyway, this plant started growing, and I knew it was a potato plant so I let it grow. My question is: How do you know when to harvest the plant? A certain number of months? days? or is there some change to the plant itself? It has been growing since early February, and is starting to get some brown leaves (I think due to the heat--over 100 degrees within the last two weeks). Any helpful info ??? Thanks! Ron gtephx!schiefferr@enuucp.eas.asu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!att!allegra!alice!jj Thu May 20 23:50:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17388 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!att!allegra!alice!jj From: jj@alice.att.com (jj, curmudgeon and all-around grouch) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sphagnum Moss vs. Peat Moss Message-ID: <25523@alice.att.com> Date: 19 May 93 16:35:50 GMT Article-I.D.: alice.25523 References: <24413@mindlink.bc.ca> Reply-To: jj@alice.UUCP (jj, curmudgeon and all-around grouch) Organization: NJ State Home for Bewildered Terminals Lines: 27 In article <24413@mindlink.bc.ca> Christine_Code@mindlink.bc.ca (Christine Code) writes: >Dear Stephen, > >Ha ha ha ha ha! I laughed so hard when I read your spagnum/vs peat moss >posting, because I'm in the very same spot as you are. I also have clay >soil, and a giant bale of "Canadian spagnum peat moss." The people at the >garden center sold it to me as peat moss, but my mom (who knows more about >gardens than I do) took one look at the bag and told me that I bought the >wrong kind: "Spaghnum moss won't do!" she said. Grumph. Spaghnum moss is a kind of living moss that grows in swamps and lots of other damp places, in many climates. Peat "Moss" is really "peat", meaning (usually) moss that has been compacted, leached, and such under highly acid conditions. The "Peat" is the important modifier. Now, there's also "composted peat", which is peat moss in which the moss has additionally been (usually artifically) composted. I used 1yr old leaves myself. I have a excess of them -- Copyright alice!jj 1993, all rights reserved, except transmission by USENET and like facilities granted. Said permission is granted only for complete copies that include this notice. Use on pay-for-read services or GOLF.L specifically disallowed. --------- Member HASA - Atheist Scum Division "Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice" - AuH2O for President From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet Thu May 20 23:50:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17389 of rec.gardens Xref: samba rec.gardens:17389 bionet.plants:1198 Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet From: Thomas Bjorkman Newsgroups: rec.gardens,bionet.plants Subject: Re: Norway Maple Tree Needs Help! Date: 20 May 1993 11:57:16 GMT Organization: Cornell University Lines: 31 Sender: tnb1@cornell.edu (Verified) Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tfrmtINNkh0@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: 132.236.4.11 X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7 X-XXDate: Thu, 20 May 93 07:57:58 GMT In article frederick.sitter, fritz@cbnewsg.cb.att.com writes: >I've got an old Norway Maple tree in my back yard that appears >to be dying. It has lots of dead limbs and its leaves are >small - even for this early in the year. Plus, there are >several clumps of "helicopter" seeds that it has not released. I have some comments about sugar maples that may be relevant to your tree. First, maples in urban landscapes tend not to get that old, and seventy years is an age where they begin to show some senescence of the type you describe. Second, a leading cause of early senility in maples is soil compaction around the tree. This compaction can easily be the result of mowing the lawn week in and week out, especially when the soil is moist. While the girdling root may have been a problem, the lack of good feeder roots could be a bigger one. The feeder roots are often distributed about at the drip line of the tree, in the top 2 inches of soil. In the forest, there would be a lot of decomposing leaves and duff providing good growing conditions for the roots and nutrients for them to absorb. In most landscapes, this layer is full of lawn roots that compete with them. If your maple is surrounded by lawn, you would probably make it healthier if you removed the lawn under the tree and replaced it with a natural mulch (leaves, straw, shredded bark). That way, there would be much less competition with the tree, and you wouldn't need to drive on its toes all the time. Planting spring bulbs would add some aesthetic value without interfering. If you want to go further, add some shade-tolerant (understory) perennials: Kalmia, Rhododendron, hosta. This tree may be too far gone for a good recovery, but you can probably get many more years of enjoyment from it. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!psuvm!tmh1 Thu May 20 23:50:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17390 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!psuvm!tmh1 Organization: Penn State University Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 08:08:16 EDT From: Tina Hay @ Penn State Message-ID: <93140.080816TMH1@psuvm.psu.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Can I plants annuals over spring bulbs? References: <1993May7.225255.11889@ntmtv> <1993May18.162438.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Lines: 16 In article <1993May18.162438.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca>, thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca says: >Just use plants that will grow taller than the tulips, and leave the tulip >leaves to die back naturally. This will allow the bulbs to store energy >for the next year, and the over-planted plants will grow above the tulips, >hiding the dying tulip leaves from view. You also can bundle up the tulip foliage, fold it over to make it more compact, and tie a rubber band (or gum band, as they say in Western Pa. where I grew up) around it. That makes things look less scraggly. When the tulip foliage finally turns brown and you can separate it from the bulb with a gentle tug, it's ready to be pulled up. Tina M. Hay College of Health and Human Development, Penn State (814) 863-4325 / tmh1@psuvm.psu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!think.com!mac-jimmy-43.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co Thu May 20 23:50:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17391 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!think.com!mac-jimmy-43.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co From: George T. Pearson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Keeping Runnuculus Blooming Date: 20 May 1993 12:50:47 GMT Organization: DFCI Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tfur8INNnr8@early-bird.think.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac-jimmy-43.dfci.harvard.edu X-UserAgent: X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Thu, 20 May 93 08:51:14 GMT I have several Runnuculus plants in their first season potted on my roofdeck and they have provided beautiful flowers. However, now that these flowers are fading no new buds seem to be appearing and the plants are fairly scraggly looking overall. I deadhead the blooms and have been fertilizing them. Do these plants only bloom in the spring? Are there any suggestions on how to encourage them to bloom? Thank you for any advice. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!think.com!mac-jimmy-43.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co Thu May 20 23:50:24 EDT 1993 Article: 17392 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!think.com!mac-jimmy-43.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co From: George T. Pearson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Houseplant gift Date: 20 May 1993 12:53:10 GMT Organization: DFCI Lines: 5 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tfuvmINNnr8@early-bird.think.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac-jimmy-43.dfci.harvard.edu X-UserAgent: X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Thu, 20 May 93 08:53:36 GMT I have a dear friend who loves plants but is not particularly gifted with a green thumb. I would like to give him a nice houseplant for his upcoming birthday. Any suggestions for a pretty indoor plant, preferrably one that blooms and is relatively hardy? He lives in the Northeast and does have a couple of windows to get sunshine. Thanks! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!jimm Thu May 20 23:50:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17393 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!jimm From: jimm@fc.sde.hp.com (Jim MacDonald) Subject: Frostbitten pepper plant Sender: news@fc.hp.com (news daemon) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 17:07:26 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: hpfcjcm.sde.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard Fort Collins Site X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9.4] Lines: 12 Howdy People, A month ago, I setup my waterwalls and a few pepper plants (1 green and 2 pimento) which were bitten by frost. The plants are now thriving. Should I replace them or should I just remove the damaged limbs? Will they still produce fruit and how well? Antics from a newbee gardener, Jim MacDonald jimm@fc.hp.com USDA #4 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 Thu May 20 23:50:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17394 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 From: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) Subject: corn gluten meal Message-ID: Sender: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: student.tc.umn.edu Organization: University of Minnesota Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 13:00:10 GMT Expires: Mon, 31 May 1993 05:00:00 GMT Lines: 28 This is a response about the corn gluten meal that may be available for use as a preemergence herbicide. Apparently, a naturally occurring chemical in the gluten meal is effective at preventing seeds from germinating. The product may soon come out in one of two forms: 1) plain old corn gluten meal that you could spread on your lawn or garden or 2) some concentrated form of the active ingredient extracted from the corn meal. I don't know what the actual chemical is, but it has been identified, but the last time I had heard, it was still confidential due to patent procedures. The person working on the project is Dr. Nick Christians of the Dept. of Horticulture at Iowa State University. Since Iowa is a big corn state there are many people excited about this, since I think the gluten meal is somewhat of a waste product in food manufacturing (correct me if I'm wrong). The herbicidal property was actually found by accident. An experiment was done a few years ago where a particular fungal pathogen was being grown on corn meal to use for inoculation of an area in the field. Well, the experiment flopped, but what they found was where the corn meal (mush) was put on, the seed germination was greatly reduced. I'm not sure how the connection was made to the gluten meal. I'm anxious to see how well it actually works for myself, but the studies done so far at ISU seem pretty good. PJ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg Thu May 20 23:50:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17395 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg From: samg@col.hp.com (Sam Gaylord) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Frostbitten pepper plant Date: 20 May 1993 13:06:18 GMT Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division Lines: 13 Message-ID: <1tfvoaINN2c4@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: sushi12.cs.itc.hp.com If the terminal part of the plant (i.e. the center of the stalk) is still healthy and growing, you should be OK, you've only lost what will be the lower leaves. If the terminal part of the plant is dead, the whole plant soon will be. samg +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ | Sam Gaylord Colorado Springs ITC e-mail Support Team | | e-mail: samg@cs.itc.hp.com HPDesk: Sam Gaylord/HP0800 | | Telnet: 1-590-2907 / AT&T: (719) 590-2907 / Fax: (719) 590-3596 | +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Thu May 20 23:50:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17396 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@calmasd.prime.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Transplanting Columbines Message-ID: <1993May18.211155.1372@calmasd.prime.com> Date: 19 May 93 05:11:55 GMT References: <1t07id$oq4@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Organization: - Lines: 26 In article , ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (SSGM) writes: > In article <1t07id$oq4@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) writes: > |> > |> While out rose-rustling I found some escaped columbines growing along a fence > |> line. I dug up some to plant around my house. Are they tough enough to > |> withstand transplanting now? I sure hope so; they're a very nice orange-red > |> with yellow interiors. > |> > |> (BTW I KNOW they were escapes; they were growing at the bottom of heap > |> of discards in a local cemetery, must have been in a pot at one time > |> and got tossed----hmmmm.... if they could survive THAT). > |> > You shouldn't have any problems transplanting now as long as you take the > usual care: don't let the roots dry out, water well, etc. It sounds from > your description that you have the native species (Aquilegia Canadensis?) > which should grow like gangbusters in W. Va. Since columbines tend to be > short-lived (3-4 yrs for me), be sure to collect seeds in July. They'll > also self-sow, I'm sure. These guys are extremely easy to propagate (after > all, I've done it :-) ). Yes, I thought they sounded like a native species too...native to the California coastal mountains. I saw some very similar aquilegia in the Santa Cruz mountains last weekend. Must be a fairly well dispersed species if it is W.Va and CA. Jim From samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu May 20 23:50:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17397 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Want to Transplant Pine Bush: Help! Message-ID: <1993May19.144920.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 19 May 93 14:49:20 MDT References: <1993May19.163444.1837@lclark.edu> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 19 In article <1993May19.163444.1837@lclark.edu>, klotz@lclark.edu (Gretchen Klotz) writes: > > There is an ornamental pine "bush" that has gotten out of hand, and it's > crowding the path where the garbage can is stored. The landlord gave us > permission to trim it, cut it down or move it. We'd like to move it, but > there are some complicating factors. > > The bush itself if ~8 feet tall, and ~6 feet in diameter. > > My questions: can this "bush" be moved safely, without extensive damage to > it or any of the surrounding plants? How large a root ball should we > leave? Well, if you could dig out a root ball a cubic metre in size you could transplant it fairly well. This would weigh somewhere in excess of one tonne, so I hope you have strong backs. If you are planning on moving it yourselves I don't think it has much of a chance of survival. Go for the pruning option. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!opl.com!psinntp!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!jareed Thu May 20 23:50:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17398 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!opl.com!psinntp!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!jareed From: jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: azaleas in zone 4? Message-ID: <1993May20.082342.27142@newstand.syr.edu> Date: 20 May 93 12:23:42 GMT Distribution: na Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY Lines: 10 When I was down in southern Pennsylvania last weekend, I was amazed by the spectacular displays of multicolored azaleas!! Here in central New York State, you just don't seem to see that. Does anyone have any experience with trying to grow azaleas in a zone 4 type area that gets as low as -15 to -20? Can it be done if they are protected somehow? Are some varieties more hardy? Judith Reed jareed@syr.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!mars.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme Thu May 20 23:50:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17399 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!mars.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme From: cazimme@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (Martin Zimmerman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Houseplant gift Date: 20 May 1993 09:50 EDT Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <20MAY199309500491@mars.lerc.nasa.gov> References: <1tfuvmINNnr8@early-bird.think.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mars.lerc.nasa.gov News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 In article <1tfuvmINNnr8@early-bird.think.com>, George T. Pearson writes... >I have a dear friend who loves plants but is not particularly gifted with >a green thumb. I would like to give him a nice houseplant for his >upcoming birthday. Any suggestions for a pretty indoor plant, >preferrably one that blooms and is relatively hardy? He lives in the >Northeast and does have a couple of windows to get sunshine. Thanks! Two plants no one in my family has ever been able to murder are the Kalanchoe called the "Pregnant Plant" or "Mexican Hat Plant" and the Pothos, which a gardening article once referred to as "nature's plastic". Neither blooms, unfortunately. Marty From samba!concert!gatech!udel!darwin.sura.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!ux1.cts.eiu.edu!csjan Thu May 20 23:50:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17400 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!udel!darwin.sura.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!ux1.cts.eiu.edu!csjan From: csjan@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Jan B. Faires) Subject: Sick Oak Tree Message-ID: <1993May20.134652.20808@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 13:46:52 GMT Organization: Eastern Illinois University Lines: 10 We planted a pin oak a couple of years ago. Last year it's leaves turned yellowish-green and fell off early. It didn't die, but the small leaves this spring are also very pale. Can I give it some oak food? Is there something out there attacking pin oaks? How can I help it? -- Jan Faires, EIU, Charleston, IL 61920 csjan@ux1.cts.eiu.edu The Biosphere II, which is supposed to represent a balanced sampling of life on Earth, contains over 3,500 species of plants, animals, From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!jg27+ Thu May 20 23:50:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17401 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!jg27+ From: Joanna Guziewicz Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bee in shed Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 10:16:10 -0400 Organization: Office of the Provost, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 12 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: po2.andrew.cmu.edu Bees and wasps are attracted to dry wood. Solitary inhabitants are probably a species of wasp. Besides just knocking the nest down another solution is to make the area unattractive. Bees and wasps both dislike the smell of smoke (burnt wood). There are commercially available smoke bomb sprays that you could use to spray the area. If the area is "out of sight" you can also use a burnt log and after knocking down the nest scrape some of the charred remains from the burnt log on the area. There of course are several pesticides specific to bees and wasps if you are not adverse to chemical solutions. Good Luck. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Thu May 20 23:50:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17402 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Why Cats? Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 14:41:50 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 16 Can anyone explain why my cats - who sometimes go for weeks without so much as looking at me - love to come out while I'm working in the garden and - roll around in the furrows - insist on sitting on (a) the spot I'm trying to plant in, or (b) the spot I've just planted in - walking slowly and methodically across the garden, taking care to step on only the spots where I've planted seeds - generally being abnormally affectionate - like I'm planting the garden for THEM. Anyone else have this experience? - Gary Hypes - From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!cbnewsm!daw Thu May 20 23:50:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17403 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!cbnewsm!daw From: daw@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (douglas.a.williams) Subject: BURPEE Order Delays? Organization: AT&T Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 14:46:40 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 35 In the first week of January I faxed an order to Burpee for various items. Included were seeds, plant tags, etc., and a number of vegetable and flower plants. Well, I've gotten all the stuff over the last couple of months except the vegetable plants (eggplant, tomato and pepper) and flowers. I'm in zone six so planting has been possible for a while. I'm worried that they may have been lost in shipment and I'll be screwed-up for this year because the local places will have nothing left. (Last year I tried to order some vegetable and flower plants around March and Burpee was sold out by that time. So if the Burpee stuff is lost I'll probably only get a credit from Burpee.) In trying to follow up on this I've gotten nowhere through Burpee's "phone system from hell" except disconnects after long holding times or busy signals. I've also sent two polite faxes inquiring about the status of my order and haven't received any response. Has anyone else out there ordered plants from Burpee? Have you received them? Any comments in general? It seems to me that Burpee's customer service has taken a real nose-dive this year. 1 1 1 Doug Williams 1 2 1 AT&T Bell Labs 1 3 3 1 Reading, PA 1 4 6 4 1 hiwayman@alux2.att.com 1 5 10 10 5 1 1 6 15 20 15 6 1 From samba!concert!gatech!purdue!yuma!lamar!mglacy Thu May 20 23:50:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17404 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!purdue!yuma!lamar!mglacy From: mglacy@lamar.ColoState.EDU () Subject: Re: Sick Oak Tree Sender: news@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU (News Account) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 15:17:17 GMT References: <1993May20.134652.20808@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: lamar.acns.colostate.edu Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523 Lines: 17 In article <1993May20.134652.20808@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> csjan@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Jan B. Faires) writes: >We planted a pin oak a couple of years ago. Last year it's >leaves turned yellowish-green and fell off early. It didn't >die, but the small leaves this spring are also very pale. >Can I give it some oak food? Is there something out there >attacking pin oaks? How can I help it? Pale leaves *with* the veins remaining dark green is pretty specifically diagnostic for chlorosis, an iron deficiency commonly suffered by trees (esp. pin oaks) in midwestern soils. The alkalinity of the soil makes any iron present in the soil biologically unvailable. There are some commercial iron supplements, with an accompanying slow release source of acid. Unfortunately, I don't remember any specific names (generic or brand names) for such treatments. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=-=-= Mike Lacy, Sociology Dept. CSU and I have a deal: We don't take Colo. State Univ. responsibility for one another's opinions. Fort Collins CO 80523 voice (303) 491-6721 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!convex!suplick Thu May 20 23:50:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17405 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!convex!suplick From: suplick@convex.com (Jean Suplick) Subject: Re: Sick Oak Tree Message-ID: Sender: usenet@convex.com (news access account) Nntp-Posting-Host: mikey.convex.com Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA References: <1993May20.134652.20808@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 15:50:03 GMT X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and not necessarily those of CONVEX. Lines: 11 In mglacy@lamar.ColoState.EDU () writes: > There are some > commercial iron supplements, with an accompanying slow release source > of acid. Unfortunately, I don't remember any specific names (generic > or brand names) for such treatments. Ironite is the name of a product sold and readily available in Dallas. In the future you might consider oaks that are more tolerant of alkaline soils. We've planted a burr oak (beautiful branching structure and huge leaves) and it's doing great! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!billg.agn.uiuc.edu!dlee Thu May 20 23:50:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17406 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!billg.agn.uiuc.edu!dlee From: dlee@UIUC Subject: re: Why Cats? Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 15:53:13 GMT Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Organization: Department of Agronomy Lines: 7 My cats do the very same thing! The female is always very friendly but the male is sometimes aloof. All I have to do is work in the garden and the male is constantly underfoot. When I was planting he wanted to lie *right* where I was trying to plant. They both purr like mad and rub against me the whole time. Anyone else have the same experience? I thought mine were just weird.... From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!ns1.cc.lehigh.edu!dw00 Thu May 20 23:50:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17407 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!ns1.cc.lehigh.edu!dw00 From: dw00@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DIANA WALSH) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Q: Bulb relocation Message-ID: <1993May20.130144.48876@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> Date: 20 May 93 13:01:44 GMT Organization: Lehigh University Lines: 15 I would like to move some tulip bulbs that were too TALL and the color scheme was not pleasing -- they are almost done blooming. When is a safe time (besides the fall) to relocate the bulbs. -- ______________ Diana Walsh DW00@LEHIGH.EDU ____________ <<<_________ Structural Stability Research Council _________>>> <<<________ Lehigh University _________>>> Bethlehem, PA USA From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet Thu May 20 23:50:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17408 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet From: Laura Uerling Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Poison Ivy horror stories Date: 20 May 1993 15:20:11 GMT Organization: Cornell University Lines: 33 Sender: lju1@cornell.edu (Verified) Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tg7jbINNnrv@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> References: <1993May17.112100.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: 132.236.42.171 X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7 X-XXDate: Thu, 20 May 93 16:26:14 GMT In article <1993May17.112100.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> , thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca writes: >I've heard of people thinking that a good way to rid their yard or >cottage of poison ivy is to burn it, then they make the big mistake >of inhaling some of the smoke which contains the active oils, leading >to a rather grim death from poison ivy inflammation in the lungs. >Don't know if this is really truth or legend, but it's certainly the >worst poison ivy horror story I've heard. Other gruesome stories deleted. As a kid, I was a chronic poison ivy sufferer, and I had an a particularly nasty experience that I've never heard of anyone else having... When I was eight or nine, during one of my periodic series cases of p.i., I got a bad cut on my ankle. (There's a story about how I got it, but suffice to say that it was my brother's fault and I've *never* let him forget it! :-) ) The cut got infected, and my oh-so-helpful bloodstream carried the infection around and I got *infected poison ivy*! I'll spare you the gory details, but it was just as nasty as you imagine--the infection didn't decrease the itching at all, and I've still got a couple of scars from the worst spots. I was out of school for over a week taking serious antibiotics and spending a lot of time sitting around with compresses all over me. As bad as that time was, for pure mental anguish it wasn't as bad as the time when I was in Junior High and got a terrible case over half my face. My parents decided I was well enough to go to school even though my face was still *hugely* swollen and red. You *know* how kids are in Junior High--at the time this ranked as a major life trauma! Rest assured that I can spot the stuff from 100 yards away now... Laura From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!nstassen Thu May 20 23:50:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17409 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!nstassen From: nstassen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Nicki A Stassen Lantz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: BURPEE Order Delays? Date: 20 May 1993 16:20:56 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 27 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1tgb58$b94@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: top.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article daw@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (douglas.a.wil liams) writes: > > >Has anyone else out there ordered plants from Burpee? Have >you received them? Any comments in general? It seems to me >that Burpee's customer service has taken a real nose-dive >this year. > I ordered some seeds, a 'princess murat' amaryllis, and a gloxinia collection from Burpee. No problem except when the amaryllis bloomed, it was RED. I called Burpee, and they were really nice about it- promised to send out another bulb and said I could keep the one that was blooming. In only three or four days the new amaryllis arrived. It was a bit scraggly looking, and didn't have the 2 flower spikes that were 'guaranteed', but it bloomed nicely, salmon pink. I've been pretty happy with burpee, but you might want to call them and see what the delay is on your order (note, customer service is only open during the week from 9-5 or something like that). Good luck! N A Stassen Lantz Columbus, OH From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!wpi.WPI.EDU!eeyore Thu May 20 23:50:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17410 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!wpi.WPI.EDU!eeyore From: eeyore@wpi.WPI.EDU ( eeyore ) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rhubarb Date: 20 May 1993 16:39:21 GMT Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute Lines: 27 Message-ID: <1tgc7p$24g@bigboote.WPI.EDU> References: <1993May19.124800.5582@walter.cray.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu In article <1993May19.124800.5582@walter.cray.com> barry@tralee.cray.com (Barry C. Bolding) writes: > >We have recently moved into a home. Among the plants sprouting in the >garden this spring is rhubarb. I have never grown or eaten rhubarb. >Questions: >1) What parts are edible? >2) When should the edible parts be harvested? >3) What do I leave behind to assure a healthy plant next year? >4) Any good recipes? > >Thanks >Barry >barry@tralee.cray.com > All I know is I had rhubarb sauce on vanilla ice cream last night, and it was *heavenly*. You want to eat the stalk, by the way. We just harvested ours because it was *huge*. Basically to make the rhubarb sauce you add water and cornstarch and SUGAR (take a bite of raw rhubarb and you'll understand why....) to chopped up rhubarb stalks and cook it. Rhubarb pie is excellent too, esp. mixed with strawberries. Chuck the leaves. I believe if you hack the plants down to the ground (leave the roots of course), you'll be in fine shape next year. Maybe even another crop this year. Yummmm. eeyore From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!svcs1!slm Thu May 20 23:50:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17411 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!svcs1!slm From: slm@svcs1.UUCP (Steve Martindill) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: 2-in-1 trees, etc. Message-ID: <715@svcs1.UUCP> Date: 20 May 93 16:23:35 GMT References: <15MAY199313102881@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> Organization: Silicon Valley Computer Society, Sunnyvale, CA Lines: 19 I have not had good luck with trees that have multiple varieties grafted onto one tree. It seems like one of the varieties is always more vigorous than the others, and ends up dominating the tree. I am considering buying two separate trees, separate varieties, and planting them in the same hole. I know that this happens in the wild, and that two trees thus planted will eventually merge (self-graft) into one tree. Has anybody seen this done? Any comments? Steve -- + Steven Martindill + + Santa Clara, California + + sgiblab!svcs1!slm + From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bmers95!bnr.ca!mmckenna Thu May 20 23:50:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17412 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bmers95!bnr.ca!mmckenna From: mmckenna@bnr.ca (Michael McKenna) Subject: Re: Rhubarb Message-ID: <1993May20.170402.11772@bmers95.bnr.ca> Sender: usenet@bmers95.bnr.ca Reply-To: mmckenna@bnr.ca (Michael McKenna) Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd. References: <1993May19.124800.5582@walter.cray.com> <1tgc7p$24g@bigboote.WPI.EDU> Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 17:04:02 GMT Lines: 8 My understanding is that the leaves contain a certain level of poison - I had originally thought that it was just burdock (some kind of rhubarb relative) that was poisonous, but my wife tells me otherwise. Also, I beleive that the method to harvest rhubarb in order to get more crops per season is to pull it out NOT cut it off at the bottom. Towards the end of the season the rhubarb gets pretty tough, I wonder if extra watering would help - any comments? Mike From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!wpi.WPI.EDU!eeyore Thu May 20 23:50:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17413 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!wpi.WPI.EDU!eeyore From: eeyore@wpi.WPI.EDU ( eeyore ) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Why Cats? Date: 20 May 1993 16:43:56 GMT Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute Lines: 25 Message-ID: <1tgcgc$2en@bigboote.WPI.EDU> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > >Can anyone explain why my cats - who sometimes go for weeks without so >much as looking at me - love to come out while I'm working in the garden >and > >- roll around in the furrows >- insist on sitting on (a) the spot I'm trying to plant in, or > (b) the spot I've just planted in >- walking slowly and methodically across the garden, taking care > to step on only the spots where I've planted seeds >- generally being abnormally affectionate - like I'm planting the > garden for THEM. > > Anyone else have this experience? > > - Gary Hypes - Right after the garden is turned over each Spring, our cats go YEAY! A giant bathroom! And when it's planted, the prime poop spots are where the plants are, so they are either pushed aside or buried (or both!). eeyore and four kitties From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!ellis!safi Thu May 20 23:51:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17414 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!ellis!safi From: safi@ellis.uchicago.edu (pedro natalio safier) Subject: HELP: PILLBUGS Message-ID: <1993May20.171526.26965@midway.uchicago.edu> Sender: news@uchinews.uchicago.edu (News System) Reply-To: safi@midway.uchicago.edu Organization: University of Chicago Astronomy & Astrophysics Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 17:15:26 GMT Lines: 24 Hello, I woke up this morning to discover that an invasion of pillbugs ate my 2-days old cucumber seedlings. I have read that pyrethrum can handle them, but I would rather try something organic before I go chemical. Any suggestions will be appreciated! Thanks a lot in advance, Pedro ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pedro N. Safier | e-mail: safi@ellis.uchicago.edu Department of Astronomy and Astrophysics | safier@oddjob.uchicago.edu The University of Chicago | phone: (312) 702-8203 5640 S. Ellis Ave | fax: (312) 702-8212 Chicago, IL 60637 | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Thu May 20 23:51:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17415 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Berms and Soil Prep... Please advise. Message-ID: <1993May20.122327.13239@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 May 93 12:23:26 -0600 References: <1993May13.175951.5515@VFL.Paramax.COM> <1993May17.144409.24050@VFL.Paramax.COM> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 39 In article <1993May17.144409.24050@VFL.Paramax.COM>, garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/SWE/ISP]) writes: > Actually, this is the reason for the original request. I > can calculate how much to compact the soil given the height, > grade, and composition of the berm. This is a math problem :) Yes, but... I've seen some overly-compacted soils, esp. clays and clay loams, that were turned into hardpan thanks to over-enthusiastic equipment operators. Or maybe it's just DOT contractors who get off on turning soil into pseudo-concrete. > But I don't know enough about how trees grow (mostly > Colorado Blue Spruces, Ashes and Maples) to understand how > they will react to trying to grow from nice soil into lousy > soil. Maybe the best thing to do is to fill with natural > soils... Some suggested readings: Gasson, et. al. 1990. Tree root plate morphology: The windblown tree survey: analysis of results. Arboricultural journal 14(3): 193-286. Glinski, J. 1990. Soil physical consitions and plant roots. CRC Press, Boca Raton, FL Cutler, DF & IBK Richardson. 1981. Tree roots and buildings. Construction Press, London. Russell, RS. 1977. Plant root systems: their function and interaction with the soil. McGraw Hill, London. Giles, FA. 1986. Landscape construction, procedures, techniques and design. (sorry, my notes don't have more information on publisher) The Landscape Architects Reference manual. 1976. Basic Information Services, Orange, CA. Personally, I'd hire a good LA with experience with local soils. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Thu May 20 23:51:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17416 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Gurney's Seed Catalog Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 17:30:31 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 8 I'm about to plunge into ordering stuff from a seed catalog for the first time (mostly garden miscellany stuff; most of my seeds are already in the ground). Anyone have any particularly good/bad exper- iences with Gurney's? Any other companies that they would stand by to the death? - Gary Hypes - From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!ringrose Thu May 20 23:51:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17417 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!ringrose From: ringrose@iastate.edu (Sharon L Ringrose) Subject: Albuquerque Gardens? Message-ID: Sender: news@news.iastate.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA References: <1993May19.124800.5582@walter.cray.com> <1tgc7p$24g@bigboote.WPI.EDU> <1993May20.170402.11772@bmers95.bnr.ca> Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 17:33:28 GMT Lines: 18 I'll be in Albuquerque next week and I was wondering if there are any interesting gardens that I should check out. I'll be leaving Saturday so any info that you could post or e-mail before 5 pm tomorrow (Friday) would be profoundly appreciated. I've been desperately trying to finish my paper I'm presenting and then I thought, "I wonder if there are any neat gardens there that I should check out?" Thanks!! (It's 60 degrees here in Iowa. I can't wait to hit the 80 degree weather in Albuquerque. :*) Sharon Ringrose ringrose@iastate.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!olivea!quack!pharvey Thu May 20 23:51:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17418 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!olivea!quack!pharvey From: pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey) Subject: Re: Berms and Soil Prep... Please advise. Message-ID: Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'. References: <1993May13.175951.5515@VFL.Paramax.COM> <1993May14.155108.18258@VFL.Paramax.COM> <1993May14.193818.13176@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May17.144409.24050@VFL.Paramax.COM> Date: 20 May 1993 16:45:53 UTC Lines: 22 In article <1993May17.144409.24050@VFL.Paramax.COM> garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/SWE/ISP]) writes: >But I don't know enough about how trees grow (mostly >Colorado Blue Spruces, Ashes and Maples) to understand how >they will react to trying to grow from nice soil into lousy >soil. They shallow root. The "nice" soil becomes the container, and unless you root prune regularly, the trees become root bound and decline or blow over in wind storms. >Maybe the best thing to do is to fill with natural soils... Yes. Or mix soils so there isn't a defined transition. The boundary layer often slows water percolation as well. If you amend the soil for a tree, you should be prepared to amend it over the entire rooting zone, which will be the mature drip line at least and perhaps twice that and at least ten feet deep. Also, in your post you mentioned compacting the soil, which is great for roadbeds and houses, but tends to make the soil inhospitable to all but the toughest weeds that have adapted to such man made conditions. Compacted soils again produce shallow roots because of lack of oxygen. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Thu May 20 23:51:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17419 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Late Lettuce Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 17:34:31 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 12 Everything I've read/heard tells me that I should have started lettuce long ago, but that it's not too late. I'm starting seedlings in peat pots (jiffy pots) and keeping them inside the house, which should be cool enough to allow germination. When I put them outside in the sun, though (current daytime temps mid-70s to low-80s), will they then be able to survive? Do I need to protect them somewhat? The varieties I'm using are Buttercrunch and Grand Rapids. Thanks one and all, Gary Hypes From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu May 20 23:51:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17420 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How do you grow a banana tree? Message-ID: <1993May19.083015.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 19 May 93 08:30:15 MDT References: <1sf3adINN3k3@news.u.washington.edu> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 14 In article <1sf3adINN3k3@news.u.washington.edu>, bbeer@stein.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) writes: > In article dinsmm@aix02.ecs.rpi.edu (Michael Dinsmore) writes: >>The title says it all. >>I'm interested in trying >>to grow a banana tree from a >>seed. Has anyone done this? >>How did you do it? > > Well, first you have to obtain a banana seed. Obviously you can't get it > from a commercial banana - these are sterile types bred to be seedless Thompson and Morgan sell packets of dwarf banana seeds, suitable for growing in a large flower pot. You may have to look around a bit to find a nursery that carries their seeds, or you could try mail order. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Thu May 20 23:51:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17421 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Dutch botany/garden exhibition Message-ID: <1993May20.130413.13240@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 May 93 13:04:13 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 20 >From my morning mail: The Plantin-Moretus museum in Antwerp, Netherlands, is having a major exhibition on botany of the southern Netherlands from about the end of the 15th century to ca. 1650. The exhibits include original works, wood blocks, copperplates, drawings, live and pressed plants, etc... to illustrate the work of Rembert Dodoens, Carolus Clusius, Mathias Lobelius, Christoph Plantin, and 16th century garden layout. 16th and 17th century flower arrangements, too! Sounds like a lovely exhibition -- wish I could go! 8-) For those of you who might, the exhibit runs through 13 June, 10am to 5 pm daily, except Mondays and May 20). Guided tours available. Information: Grote Markt 29-2000 Antwerp. Telephone 03/226.93.00 The catalog is available in both Dutch and English. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI (no connection with the exhibit) From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Thu May 20 23:51:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17422 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sphagnum Moss vs. Peat Moss Message-ID: <1993May20.130726.13241@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 May 93 13:07:26 -0600 References: <1tap1nINNffk@news.u.washington.edu> <35146@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> Distribution: na Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 14 In article <35146@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM>, deeds@oracle2 (Deanna J. Deeds) writes: > The nursery and the book are both correct. Sphagnum is a kind of moss. > Decayed moss is peat moss. Decayed sphagnum is sphagnum peat. Partially decayed plants of whatever description is peat -- sedge peat is pretty common. > (Did I get it right, Kay? Did I learn anything from your sphagnum > net-lecture?) Yup. For masochists, you can find the whole "everything you never wanted to know about sphagnum and peat" lecture in the rec.gardens archives at sunsite.unc.edu. Kay From samba!concert!gatech!prism!mal-s1!rob Thu May 20 23:51:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17423 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!prism!mal-s1!rob (Rob Pauley) From: rob@mal-s1.gatech.edu (Rob Pauley) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Why Cats? Message-ID: Date: 20 May 93 16:59:40 GMT References: Sender: news@prism.gatech.EDU Organization: Georgia Tech Lines: 34 In dlee@UIUC writes: >My cats do the very same thing! The female is always very friendly but the >male is sometimes aloof. All I have to do is work in the garden and the >male is constantly underfoot. When I was planting he wanted to lie *right* >where I was trying to plant. They both purr like mad and rub against me the >whole time. >Anyone else have the same experience? I thought mine were just weird.... No, yours are not wierd. They are showing that they are card-carrying members of the secret cat organization: Promote UnReasonable Regard (PURR). One of the objectives of this organization is to perpetuate the mysterious and aloof traits which humans attribute to cats. The organization is thousands of years old, starting when cats realized that humans were a good free-ride to an easy life (what other animal gets a carpeted climbing tree? The human offspring only get pressure treated pine!). The particular behavior you decribe is intended to promote the "my cat is just a wierd one" reaction, thus absolving him of blame in many areas. In fact, you are probably desecrating hallowed meeting ground of the organization and if you continue (in my experience), the cat may very well desecrate your fresh, exposed soil as well. Please do not let such behavior contin.@# ..++^ --- /-- O --- /-- O O --- /-- O Oh, I'm OK now. -- Rob Pauley rob@mal-s1.gatech.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!ringrose Thu May 20 23:51:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17424 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!ringrose From: ringrose@iastate.edu (Sharon L Ringrose) Subject: Re: Why Cats? Message-ID: Sender: news@news.iastate.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA References: Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 18:08:34 GMT Lines: 34 Strange. My dog did the same thing this year. (My first year to have him living with me - he lived with my parents before.) I had to stake the garden BEFORE I did any work there because he wanted to be attached to me and was very interested in turning over the soil, putting in plants, etc. I'm not sure that this is especially saying anything about the garden though, this is his general attitude toward anything I do. He used to live in a dog run behind my parents house. Now that he lives with me and is allowed in the house, he HATES not being included in anything. If I am home, he sits outside the back door until I will let him in. If I mow the front yard, he sits by the fence in the back and watches me. I think that he has the delusion that he is a house dog now. It was hilarious to hear my Mom keep saying when I visited, "I can't believe I have a dog in my house," a million times a day. Mom is a fervent "no animals in the house EVER" type. She actually liked having around though, since she knew I had to deal with it if he made a mess. Strangely, Butch (the dog) will stay out of the garden, but he jumps the roped off area that I am trying to grow grass in. Anyway, pets do strange things. Sharon From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!news.mentorg.com!rreid!rreid Thu May 20 23:51:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17425 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!news.mentorg.com!rreid!rreid From: rreid@rreid.mentorg.com (Richard Reid) Subject: The Yard's in Bloom, again. (an essay) Message-ID: <1993May20.182955.1808@news.mentorg.com> Sender: rreid@rreid (Richard Reid) Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 18:29:55 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: rreid.mentorg.com Organization: mentor Keywords: weeds, humor, femur, essay Followup-To: Lines: 123 Let's talk about weeds for a minute. I was wondering around in the Wilsonville library a couple of weeks ago and came upon a book titled something along the lines of "Love Your Weeds." The author's premise stated that weeds are not just weeds but that they too are plants. I'm not so sure. In my yard alone I have field mint, morning glory, clover, moss, thistle, chick weed and some type of surface runner that reminds me of the milfoil we'd get tangled up in as kids from swimming in the lake during the late summer. And of course, there is the grandaddy of them all, the ever present and common Dandelion. In my yard the dandelions are particu- larly bad. To prove it, a common joke in our house announces that it is time to cut the grass whenever the dandelions are in bloom. Of course by then, it is raining, and so the grass must wait until either the sun decides to overcome the gray north- west sky or until the clouds graciously hold back their rain like a mother holds her infant when he is hungry and there is no convenient place to nurse. And if this happens, and it rarely does, it is too late. The cessation of rain cause the dandelions to enter survival mode. You can tell when a dandelion is entering sur- vival mode by the miraculous conver- sion it undergoes from being a dainty yellow flower into a dainty puff of weed seeds.And as you can guess, when the grass gets clipped the weed seed is shaken from its' launching pad and para- chutes around in the air like a saboteur looking for an arms depot. In my yard the arms depot is the vegetable patch. I've tried a variety of things to rid myself of these subversive botanicals. I've dug, I've plucked, I've poured boiling water upon them like a medieval warrior defending the castle wall (A mans home is his castle). Once I even hypothesized that if I could prevent the yellow buttons from going to seed then in time I would eventually deplete the life cycle which in turn would start depopulation. I instructed my two year old. He ran around happily picking the pretty yellow flowers depositing them into a bucket. This lasted 30 minutes and a resulted in one bucket of deadheads and two days of green lawn. I've considered succumbing to chemical warfare. My extension agent claims that Weed-n-Feed, merely feeds the weeds. If it wasn't for the children, I'm sure I would throw off my Big-O organic man- tle and apply lawn chemicals in the same manner the U.S applied Agent Orange to the jungles of Vietnam: enthusiastically and without conscience. But my con- science tells me not to be so enthusiastic, not yet. I read once that dandelions, in their own Darwinian way, react to any condition that threatens their growth. For example, if you have a long lanky dandelion and cut it off about half way up the stem, then when a new flower forms it will only grow to the height from which the old flower was severed. if you do this repeat- edly you will eventually see the familiar butter colored bud at ground level. This fact causes me to surmise that as dandelions struggle their way up the evo- lutionary chain they will eventually be growing underground, remotely per- forming photosynthesis and propagating the species with its usual characteristics. This new strain of dandelion will then quietly and unashamedly spread itself throughout the regions of the earth build- ing it's population base to the point where it becomes a world super power and threatens the existence of mankind (why should we assume that dandelions be benevolent). All of this taking place underground and over a period of years that you as a home owner, having forgot- ten the painstaking hours you spent dig- ging, pulling, cutting and chemically removing these pest, will have no recourse but to give into their demands by releasing all potted plants, revealing your credit card numbers and granting first right of refusal for taking your daughter to the senior prom (Here, I brought you a corsage). I guess the choice is pure and simple: you can "Love your Weeds" (as future in-laws) or you can leave em! I think I'll leave em. Besides, it stopped raining, I have to go cut the grass, the yards in bloom, again. -- Rick Reid rreid@.mentorg.com -- Mentor Graphics Corporation From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!rational.com!pelton!rlk Thu May 20 23:51:24 EDT 1993 Article: 17426 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!rational.com!pelton!rlk From: rlk@pelton.Rational.COM (Robert Kitzberger) Subject: Pruning veggies and herbs? Message-ID: Sender: news@rational.com Organization: Rational Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 17:34:47 GMT Lines: 17 Pardon me if this has been asked before... We've got several varieties of tomatoes, peppers, some cilantro, parsley, lettuce etc, in a somewhat limited space. I'd like to prune these beasts so that they don't 'bolt' and that they are encouraged to produce lots of fruit. The only thinkg I know is that you prune out the 'vestige' shoots from a tomato plant... other than that, my pruning knowledge is nil. I'd appreciate any pruning recommendations, thanks! .Bob. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Bob Kitzberger Internet: rlk@rational.com Rational, Grass Valley, CA CompuServe: 70743,1550 type Opinion is private; From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!corpgate!brtph560!bnr.ca!laurad Thu May 20 23:51:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17427 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!corpgate!brtph560!bnr.ca!laurad From: laurad@bnr.ca (Laura Dreisbach) Subject: Its not wild violets - its wild ginger Message-ID: <1993May20.162303.19143@brtph560.bnr.ca> Sender: news@brtph560.bnr.ca (Usenet News) Reply-To: laurad@bnr.ca Organization: Bell-Northern Research Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 16:23:03 GMT Lines: 26 Well, I think I was mis-informed. When I pulled up the plant that was growing madly in my lawn, and took it to my local nursery, they told me it was wild violets. After reading everybody's replies, I decided to make sure this really was wild violets (there weren't little flowers like everyone described). I looked in several groundcover books and have come to the conclusion that what I have is wild ginger, not wild violets. I don't mind "weeds" in my lawn. I like the clover and dandelions that grow there now. Its just that this stuff (the wild ginger) has taken over 50% of my lawn on one side of my house, just in the last 2 months. I would like to keep some grass in my lawn :^) I have decided to just keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't get too out of hand. Also, this stuff just showed up this spring and I am concerned that next fall it may die away and leave bare spots in my lawn. Anyways, thanks for the advise everyone. Don't worry I will not be killing anything that flowers in my yard, I like the flowers too much! Thanks, Laura From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Thu May 20 23:51:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17428 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Buying Venus Fly Traps Message-ID: <120246@bu.edu> Date: 20 May 93 18:40:03 GMT References: <1993May13.021649.19397@bsu-ucs> <1t9b7s$eql@hpfcbig.sde.hp.com> Sender: news@bu.edu Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 26 I just wanted to comment on Michigan Bulb Company, where "everybody buys ONCE" as someone so tellingly said it here. Last year about 2/3 of the order I got from them died. I'd heard that to claim you need to send the documentation they want or they ignore it, so I kept all the shipping labels. I wrote a letter explaining what died and what it cost, offering to take in compensation some specific plants I actually WANTED that would cost somewhat LESS than "what they owed me". Instead they sent a credit slip, and I ordered some new stuff -- aiming for things I guessed would survive shipping better than the first batch. Everything is doing very well! Maybe they take better care when they think they are about to lose you as a customer, or maybe I picked better/safer things this time, but the only plants that look a little feeble are some columbines (aqualegia?) that are in shade and are alive but not thriving. (Maybe the plants need to be more robust to plant in shade.) Anyhow, I'm relatively happy with this batch, and just wanted people to know that if you act assertive (veiled threats about the Better Business Bureau were in my letter!) it's possible to get some satisfaction from Mich. Bulb. NOTE that this is NOT a major endorsement, just kind of a "don't despair" comment! I don't know if I would order from them again or not. IF I did, I'd be sure to order EARLY in the season and be selective about ordering things that can be shipped dormant. Nice juicy perennials cost about the same and are a lot healthier at my local nurseries. For what it's worth... Sherry From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!linus!amt Thu May 20 23:51:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17429 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!linus!amt From: amt@linus.mitre.org (Anne Tallant) Subject: Re: Apple Trees Message-ID: Sender: news@linus.mitre.org (News Service) Nntp-Posting-Host: dunvegan.mitre.org Organization: The MITRE Corporation, Bedford, MA Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 20:00:55 GMT Lines: 31 In article pms5s@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (Patricia M. Shannon) writes: >We have two healthy three year old apple trees in our front >yard and have only had three blossoms last year with no fruit. >This year, we have no blossoms. Please let me know via e-mail >what I should be feeding them and when. Thanks in advance. Are the trees standard size, semi-dwarf, or dwarf? Generally it takes three years to get a very few apples from a dwarf apple tree, longer for the semi-dwarf and standard sizes. What kind of spring weather have you had in Virginia this year? Near-freezing temperatures during bloom will damage the blooms and prevent fruiting. Certain insect larvae can also cause the same problem, which is why many orchardists spray dormant oil before bloom set. Finally, what variety of apple are you growing. Some varieties of apples will produce abundantly one year, and the following year will produce a significantly smaller crop - kind of like a rest phase. I don't know the varieties off the top of my head. If you have any other questions, feel free to email me. I have a dwarf apple orchard on a third of an acre and have encountered many of these problems. Hope this helps, Anne -- --------------------------------------------------------------------- Anne Tallant amt@linus.mitre.org From samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!gnv.ifas.ufl.edu!mwm Thu May 20 23:51:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17430 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!gnv.ifas.ufl.edu!mwm From: mwm@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Romneya coulteri seeds - germination? Message-ID: <1993May19.125526.2411@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu> Date: 19 May 93 12:55:26 -0500 Lines: 13 To all who sent me info on locating Stewartia malacodendron... many, many thanks. I was able to obtain two 2-year old seedlings of this fine plant and am looking forward to their maturity. My current question is... how to germinate Romneya coulteri ? Simply sowing the seeds in light or dark does not help. I am told that a heat treatment of some sort may be in order. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. Mike. MWM@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu any opinions, ideas etc presented are not neccessarily those of my employer... From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!ncr-sd!ncratl!rduvall.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM Sat May 22 00:00:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17431 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!ncr-sd!ncratl!rduvall.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM From: Roger.Duvall@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM (Roger Duvall) Subject: Re: Azalea questions Message-ID: <19930520131832.Roger.Duvall@rduvall.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM> Sender: root@ncratl.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM Nntp-Posting-Host: rduvall.atlantaga.ncr.com Organization: NCR Corporation X-Newsreader: FTPNuz (DOS) v1.0 References: Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 18:18:00 GMT Lines: 44 In Article "karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen)" says: > OK, i know this is kind of late, but i just discovered that azaleas have > really cool varieties (not just those boring magenta and candy pink > varieties) and am coveting them big time! A friend in the area showed me > her collection, some of which were striped and spotted and banded and > altogether amazing. Unfortunately the only book she has with pictures is in > Japanese --- not a language i can read --- and the specialty catalogues > dont have pictures, just words. The azaleas you are describing might be satsuki. They bloom late ("satsuki" means "fifth month") and many of them have variable patterns of the types you describe in the blooms. They do well here in Atlanta, but they tend to have problems with petal blight. Anybody know how to deal with petal blight? Where can one buy Baleton? > > 1) Any recommendations for good books in English that can get me started on > interesting varieties? > The standard book on azaleas is "Azaleas" by Fred Galle (pronounced like galley). It has a good many color plates. > 2) Recommendations for good nurseries in the East (the closer to Maryland > the better)? It seems kind of silly to order all the way from e.g. > Pasadena, when so many azaleas apparently were bred a few miles from my > home (i.e., USDA and Takoma Park). But good mail order places in the East > will be appreciated too, assuming i can find some decent pictures first...i > dont like the idea of ordering flowering shrubs sight unseen. > Transplant Nursery in Lavonia GA. (Parkertown Rd. will get it there.) But there should be good nurseries closer, and it's more fun to visit than to mail order. > 3) Am i correct in assuming it's too late to plant azaleas here in Zone 7 > (Maryland, between DC and Baltimore)? It's getting hot already, ugh. Would > it be better to wait until fall, or are the plants generally available only > in spring? If you keep them from drying out, you can plant now, but you would be better off waiting until fall. Let the roots get established during the winter so that the plant can make it through the heat and drought of summer. > > Thanks very much for your help, as always! > > > Judy Karpen "pushing back the frontiers of science" > karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC USA > From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!silver.cs.umanitoba.ca!ostrand Sat May 22 00:01:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17433 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!silver.cs.umanitoba.ca!ostrand From: ostrand@silver.cs.umanitoba.ca (Andrew Ostrander) Subject: Re: Why Cats? Message-ID: Sender: news@ccu.umanitoba.ca Nntp-Posting-Host: silver.cs.umanitoba.ca Organization: Computer Science, University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada References: Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 20:11:34 GMT Lines: 11 In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > >Can anyone explain why my cats - who sometimes go for weeks without so >much as looking at me - love to come out while I'm working in the garden >and >- insist on sitting on (a) the spot I'm trying to plant in, or > (b) the spot I've just planted in I can't explain it, but I don't let him join me any more because the spot I've just planted in is too often a seedling. Andrew From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews Sat May 22 00:01:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17434 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer) Subject: Re: Rhubarb Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 20:17:01 GMT References: <24466@mindlink.bc.ca> Nntp-Posting-Host: jurassic.ch.apollo.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard Corporation, Chelmsford, MA Lines: 33 In article <24466@mindlink.bc.ca> Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >Also, don't cut the >rhubarb stalks from the plant...snap them off. They will come away quite >easily and this is much better for the plant. I grab a stalk right down where it emerges from the ground, and use a sort of rocking, twisting motion. Visualize snapping away a single celery stalk from the bunch. >3) What do I leave behind to assure a healthy plant next year? >We don't pick after July and I never leave a plant with less than about three >good stalks at any time. If you want healthy plants you should also feed >them. Rhubarbs are "gross feeders" and will do much better for you if they >get a good manure mulch in the fall. Mine get a fair amount of neglect (well, at least, the attention I give them is probably not the kind they crave :-) and still thrive. Very tough critters. Incidentally, how far south is their range? Mine wilt pretty quickly in summer heat here in central MA; can't imagine that they'd do well in warmer climes. >4) Any good recipes? >Any basic cookbook will have rhubarb recipes. You can stew it with sugar, >bake it in a pie, make rhubarb crumble, etc., etc. I recommend checking in to >Usenet.rec.food.cooking which has had lots of nifty rhubarb recipes go by >lately. If anyone has saved these and would forward them to me, I'd appreciate it, thanks! Yummmmm... -- "I feel lightheaded, Sam. I think my brain | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com is out of air. But it's kind of a neat | /HP/org/chart/says/you/are/here feeling..." --Freelance Police | Massachusetts Language Lab From samba!concert!gatech!purdue!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Sat May 22 00:01:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17435 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!purdue!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Japanese garden materials/Stone gardens Keywords: rocks, stones, sand Message-ID: <120253@bu.edu> Date: 20 May 93 19:07:22 GMT References: <1sp00v$t8h@gaia.ucs.orst.edu> Sender: news@bu.edu Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 28 I, too, love Japanese Gardens. I live on a hillside so a zen courtyard garden isn't possible on my site without MAJOR excavation, so I'm messing around with the concepts of a stroll garden across the back of my yard where it is semi-natural woodland in structure and ecology. (I fear it is getting less and less Japanese in nature, but that's life.) I do have a lot of Japanese Gardening books, so if other people are interested I can post a list with brief comments some time. (Let me know if you are interested.) I have a small pond and I wanted bronze herons (or cranes) for it, which I found to be prohibitively expensive in the few places I could find them to mail order. However, others might like to know, I went to the annual Boston Home Show last year and got a pair for $350, dickered down from $650! They were displayed by a couple of importers from San FRancisco, as I recall. I was amazed they would go down so much, and it never would have occurred to me, but when I asked the price and it was so far out of my reach, they started to negotiate and that's where we agreed. I also got a couple of reproduction stone lanterns (concrete) and a metal one. Which is enough for the space I have. (Actually, these things are just to help give the effect as I stray from the more rigid principles of Japanese design!) Oh, well, at least I can grow moss pretty well on my site! Sherry From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!convex!sunova!NewsWatcher!user Sat May 22 00:01:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17436 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!convex!sunova!NewsWatcher!user From: () Subject: Re: Sick Oak Tree Message-ID: <1993May20.203243.15876@sunova.ssc.gov> Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@sunova.ssc.gov (News Admin) Nntp-Posting-Host: 143.202.102.36 Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory References: <1993May20.134652.20808@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 20:32:43 GMT Lines: 26 In article <1993May20.134652.20808@ux1.cts.eiu.edu>, csjan@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Jan B. Faires) wrote: > > We planted a pin oak a couple of years ago. Last year it's > leaves turned yellowish-green and fell off early. It didn't > die, but the small leaves this spring are also very pale. > Can I give it some oak food? Is there something out there > attacking pin oaks? How can I help it? > -- > Jan Faires, EIU, Charleston, IL 61920 csjan@ux1.cts.eiu.edu > > The Biosphere II, which is supposed to represent a balanced sampling > of life on Earth, contains over 3,500 species of plants, animals, I had a live oak succumb to "Oak Wilt" (not "Live Oak Decline", a disease specific to live oaks) last summer. The leaves were a pale green to yellow, with none of the green veins that would indicate iron chlorosis, and no new spring growth to speak of. The leaves looked like an evergreen holly's leaves right before they fall off in the spring. The "cure" is to remove the tree before the disease spreads to nearby oaks. I don't know if this disease is limited to more southern climes, but you may want to cut a sample limb and have a nurseryman check it out. Pin oaks don't transplant well in Texas, maybe your tree is having some delayed transplant shock. Good luck, I sincerely hope that these problems are not yours. Wes Smith (wes@sscvx1.ssc.gov) From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!convex!sunova!NewsWatcher!user Sat May 22 00:01:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17437 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!convex!sunova!NewsWatcher!user From: (Wes Smith) Subject: Seed Tape Packaging, NK's address? Message-ID: <1993May20.204039.16182@sunova.ssc.gov> Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@sunova.ssc.gov (News Admin) Nntp-Posting-Host: 143.202.102.36 Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 20:40:39 GMT Lines: 6 I've seen NK packaging garden seeds in long "seed tapes", usually carrots and radishes. I would like to try some in spinach for the fall garden. Does anyone know if NK (or anybody else) packages spinach this way? Does anyone have their catalog address or phone # ? Thanks in advance - Wes Smith (wes@sscvx1.ssc.gov) From samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!ncar!buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu!dattore Sat May 22 00:01:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17438 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!ncar!buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu!dattore From: dattore@buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu (Bob Dattore) Subject: Bugs in my Aspen trees Message-ID: <1993May20.210107.26133@ncar.ucar.edu> Sender: dattore@ncar.ucar.edu (Bob Dattore) Organization: Scientific Computing Divison/NCAR Boulder, CO Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 21:01:07 GMT Lines: 19 I have a clump of Aspen trees in my front yard. All of the trees but one are completely leafed out. The one that has no leaves is alive and has live buds, a few of which are partially broken open, but that is all. Recently, a close inspection revealed that several of the smaller branches are covered with some kind of insect. They are larger than an aphid, and some of them have wings. Last night, I sprayed the tree (it's only about 7 ft tall) with a soapy water solution, but that didn't appear to phase the bugs. I am going to out to buy Malathion (sp?) tonight, but if someone has a less radical but equally effective idea on how to rid my tree of these bugs, please let me know. After all of this, I don't know if my tree is not leafing out because of the bugs, or if there is some other problem, but the nursery I called told me to get rid of the bugs first. It is also interesting that none of the leafed-out trees have these bugs on them. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Bob From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!pdxgate!rigel!klm Sat May 22 00:01:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17439 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!pdxgate!rigel!klm From: klm@rigel.cs.pdx.edu (Kathy L. McRae) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bouncing Bet Keywords: aka "soap wort" Message-ID: <7534@pdxgate.UUCP> Date: 20 May 93 20:50:17 GMT Article-I.D.: pdxgate.7534 References: <1t8b1qINNnc@early-bird.think.com> Sender: news@pdxgate.UUCP Organization: Portland State University, Computer Science Dept. Lines: 16 In article <1t8b1qINNnc@early-bird.think.com> george_pearson.co@macmailgw.dfci.harvard.edu (George T. Pearson) writes: >Is anyone familiar with a plant called !Bouncing Bet!? I got a couple at Bouncing Bet (aka soap wort) contains lots of saponin...used to be used for (yep) making soap. Cute little purple-ish (rosy purple?) flowers, at least on mine. I've got mine in a container on the front porch. It gets about half and half sun and shade...seems to be just fine. I water it when it's dry. Sorry, don't have the scientific name handy. Got mine at a farm/garden place in the herb section. The flowers are pretty neat. You're in for treat. They aren't particularly big (~1/4 - 3/8"), but they sure are pretty! kathy From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!silver.cs.umanitoba.ca!ostrand Sat May 22 00:01:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17440 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!silver.cs.umanitoba.ca!ostrand From: ostrand@cs.umanitoba.ca (Andrew Ostrander) Subject: Want to Transplant Pine Bush: Help! Message-ID: Originator: ostrand@silver.cs.umanitoba.ca Sender: news@ccu.umanitoba.ca Supersedes: Nntp-Posting-Host: silver.cs.umanitoba.ca Organization: Computer Science, University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 20:20:28 GMT Lines: 4 8 feet tall and you want to move it yourself?! Call the professional tree movers with their giant tree spades, and even then don't count on its living afterwards. Andrew From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat May 22 00:01:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17441 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Houseplant gift Message-ID: <1993May20.205354.14119@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <1tfuvmINNnr8@early-bird.think.com> <20MAY199309500491@mars.lerc.nasa.gov> Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 20:53:54 GMT Lines: 21 In article <20MAY199309500491@mars.lerc.nasa.gov> cazimme@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (Martin Zimmerman) writes: >Two plants no one in my family has ever been able to murder are the Kalanchoe >called the "Pregnant Plant" or "Mexican Hat Plant" and the Pothos, which >a gardening article once referred to as "nature's plastic". Neither blooms, >unfortunately. Kalanchoe blooms its little head off for me. Flowers are pink, red, orange, or cream-colored depending on variety. Lots of florists sell them in bloom. To keep them healthy, cut off spent blooms, give bright sunlight, feed occasionally with something like Rapid-Gro, and water only when completely dry. Somebody said they are short-day plants and need 12 hours of complete darkness to bloom again. I can't vouch for this, as I grow them outdoors and don't give them any artificial light. They root easily from cuttings. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat May 22 00:01:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17442 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Why Cats? Message-ID: <1993May20.205917.14222@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 20:59:17 GMT Lines: 20 In article dlee@UIUC writes: >My cats do the very same thing! The female is always very friendly but the >male is sometimes aloof. All I have to do is work in the garden and the >male is constantly underfoot. When I was planting he wanted to lie *right* >where I was trying to plant. They both purr like mad and rub against me the >whole time. > >Anyone else have the same experience? I thought mine were just weird.... My cat is a garden freak too. She loves to "help" me weed, and she has completely flattened my Nepeta mussenii, rubbing its little leaves to shreds. (I know, I shouldn't have planted catmint in the first place, but I thought the cat was moving to my stepdaughter's house.) -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!west.West.Sun.COM!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!encinitas!jaya Sat May 22 00:01:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17443 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!west.West.Sun.COM!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!encinitas!jaya From: jaya@encinitas.Eng.Sun.COM (Jaya Holla) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: bamboo Date: 20 May 1993 19:58:47 GMT Organization: Sun Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <1993May14.215008.18703@math.ucla.edu> <3661.407.uupcb@ozonehole.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: encinitas In article <3661.407.uupcb@ozonehole.com> greg.mccrory@ozonehole.com (Greg Mccrory) writes: >On Fri, 14 May 93 ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) wrote: > >> Find all the classic Chinese recipes using bamboo shoots. >> Create new ones. Remember not all varieties of bamboo are edible by humans. Jaya From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!west.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!sixgun.East.Sun.COM!seven-up.East.Sun.COM!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!shekinah!hesed Sat May 22 00:01:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17444 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!west.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!sixgun.East.Sun.COM!seven-up.East.Sun.COM!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!shekinah!hesed From: hesed@shekinah.Eng.Sun.COM (Michael Brumm) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Importance of potato blossoms, ladybugs, and soap Date: 20 May 1993 20:06:30 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Lines: 18 Distribution: world Message-ID: Reply-To: hesed@shekinah.Eng.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: shekinah Keywords: potato blossoms ladybugs soap Do potato blossoms provide a necessary role in producing a mature crop? Two days ago I had a lot of them and last night they were all gone! Will they bloom again? Does it matter? I then noticed the plants have been invaded with what I think are aphids (only they're pink/red). There were also some ladybugs munching happily away at them but not enough to keep the population down. So I sprayed the plants heavily with a couple tablespoons of dish soap and a couple tablespoons of vegetable oil added to a few gallons of water hoping to kill off the critters. Will this be harmful to the ladybugs? I'm hoping this will work so I don't have to break out the malathion. Thanks for any help! -Mike From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!west.West.Sun.COM!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!shekinah!hesed Sat May 22 00:01:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17445 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!west.West.Sun.COM!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!shekinah!hesed From: hesed@shekinah.Eng.Sun.COM (Michael Brumm) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Strawberries, birds, and rubber snakes Date: 20 May 1993 20:12:13 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: Reply-To: hesed@shekinah.Eng.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: shekinah Keywords: strawberries I'm enjoying the songs of many birds in my backyard but at the expense of all of my strawberries! The birds are feasting on them before they get ripe. I put a rubber snake near the plants in plain view hoping that would deter the birds. One nearby strawberry has since been munched so it looks like it isn't going to work. Has anyone had success keeping birds away with imitation critters of any kind? Would a bigger snake work, or maybe a plaster cat? Between the birds and the ants I'm almost ready to pull the plants out, though I really don't want to. Thanks! -Mike From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!csc.ti.com!tilde.csc.ti.com!fstop.csc.ti.com!psyche!czichon Sat May 22 00:01:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17446 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!csc.ti.com!tilde.csc.ti.com!fstop.csc.ti.com!psyche!czichon From: czichon@psyche.csc.ti.com (Cary Czichon) Subject: Re: lilac question Message-ID: Sender: usenet@csc.ti.com Nntp-Posting-Host: psyche Organization: Texas Instruments References: <1993May14.215112.18763@math.ucla.edu> Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 21:44:31 GMT Lines: 14 In article <1993May14.215112.18763@math.ucla.edu> ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: >Is there such a thing as a lilac (Syringia) that grows in very low >winter chill climates? I know about ceanothus, but I don't want >one. I want a real lilac bush with the old fashioned purple flowers >that smell to high heaven. Where I live, I can grow and fruit >tropical guavas (psidium guajava) so it really has to tolerate >a lo-chill lifestyle. Or should I just give up and move to >minnesota? Persian Lilac (Syringa persica). From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!csc.ti.com!tilde.csc.ti.com!fstop.csc.ti.com!psyche!czichon Sat May 22 00:01:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17447 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!csc.ti.com!tilde.csc.ti.com!fstop.csc.ti.com!psyche!czichon From: czichon@psyche.csc.ti.com (Cary Czichon) Subject: Re: lilac problem Message-ID: Sender: usenet@csc.ti.com Nntp-Posting-Host: psyche Organization: Texas Instruments References: <1993May14.171753.19066@hobbes.kzoo.edu> Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 21:54:26 GMT Lines: 17 In article <1993May14.171753.19066@hobbes.kzoo.edu> jprice@hobbes.kzoo.edu (Janet Price) writes: >One of my two small lilac bushes (growing next to each other) seems to >be dying. It had a lot of flower buds that were beginning to open and >then over a period of a couple of weeks, branch by branch the opening >buds and leaves dried up. Two branches remain with lilac blooms and >leaves that are doing fine. I see no sign of bugs. The dead branches >aren't all on one side. I could understand it if they died over winter, >but am puzzled at their dying just as they are budding and leafing out. >Does anyone have a clue about what's wrong? Fire blight. Prune out the infected wood. Sterilize your tools. Your good bush is at risk. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!concertina!fiddler Sat May 22 00:01:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17448 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!concertina!fiddler From: fiddler@concertina.Eng.Sun.COM (steve hix) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP: PILLBUGS Date: 20 May 1993 21:47:38 GMT Organization: Sun Lines: 16 Distribution: usa Message-ID: References: <1993May20.171526.26965@midway.uchicago.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: concertina In article <1993May20.171526.26965@midway.uchicago.edu> safi@midway.uchicago.edu writes: > >I woke up this morning to discover that an invasion of pillbugs ate my 2-days >old cucumber seedlings. > >I have read that pyrethrum can handle them, but I would rather try something >organic before I go chemical. Pyrethren *is* organic. (Unless I've confused it badly with another insecticide, it's derived from the flowers of some well-known ornamental.) -- "...Then anyone who leaves behind him a written manual, and likewise anyone who receives it, in the belief that such writing will be clear and certain, must be exceedingly simple-minded..." Plato, _Phaedrus_ ------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!hri.com!opl.com!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Sat May 22 00:01:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17449 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!hri.com!opl.com!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Potatoes Message-ID: Date: 16 May 93 18:05:20 GMT References: <1453300184@igc.apc.org> Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. Lines: 21 In article thomasr@cpqhou.se.hou.compaq.com (G. Thomas Rush) writes: >I wrote about crowding in potatoes, since I had planted mine >whole and had lots of stems coming up. > >In article <1453300184@igc.apc.org> Libby Goldstein writes: >> >>Leave them alone and harvest them after they flower, you'll get tasty little new potatoes...good for salads, good with sour cream and just generally good. > >But I want big bakers... sorry if this wasn't clear before. Will >the potatoes be too crowded to make big potaoes? The idea is: you want big potatoes at the end of the season, so yes, you probably should thin them out. But you can have your big potatoes and eat little ones while you wait: instead of thinning immediately, wait until the vines have produced some tiny potatoes. Then thin. I use this method to speed harvests of various veggies: sow thickly, eat baby lettuce, carrots, roquette, green onions, thereby thinning out the patch, leaving room for the rest to become large plants. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!jetsam.ee.pdx.edu!davidr Sat May 22 00:01:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17450 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!jetsam.ee.pdx.edu!davidr From: davidr@jetsam.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Strawberries, birds, and rubber snakes Keywords: strawberries Message-ID: <1th37r$hef@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 20 May 93 23:11:55 GMT Article-I.D.: walt.1th37r$hef References: Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: jetsam.ee.pdx.edu hesed@shekinah.Eng.Sun.COM (Michael Brumm) writes: >Has anyone had success keeping birds away with imitation critters of any kind? >Would a bigger snake work, or maybe a plaster cat? Between the birds and the >ants I'm almost ready to pull the plants out, though I really don't want to. I've heard that strips of mattallic streamers (such as what is available at a party store) do well. You rope off the area with the streamers with enough slack to move in the breeze. Supposedly this scares them (Although SOME birds like crows would be attracted to it!). I've never tried it, but I've seen "commercial bird deterents" made of the same materials for sale before. -David Robinson From samba!concert!decwrl!world!azachai Sat May 22 00:01:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17451 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!decwrl!world!azachai From: azachai@world.std.com (arthur zachai) Subject: Re: Ants in flower beds--second posting Message-ID: Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA References: <93132.141230TMH1@psuvm.psu.edu> Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 23:24:30 GMT Lines: 9 have lots of ants too. one colony is fireants, i think, cause one bit me and there's still a bump there. that was 2 years ago! what to worry about -- what I worry about is that they move into the house, and they are carpenter ants. Now, I'm as environmentally conscious as the next guy, but I own the house, see, and I don't want the ants tearing down my retirement plan. so, off to the garden store with my Ortho catalog... . From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!olivea!stratus!soave!jane Sat May 22 00:01:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17452 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!olivea!stratus!soave!jane From: jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: drying garlic Message-ID: <9488.191@stratus.SWDC.Stratus.COM> Date: 20 May 93 23:11:19 GMT References: Sender: news@SWDC.Stratus.COM Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc., San Jose, CA Lines: 23 >>I'm growing a lot of garlic this year and would like to hear the >>opinion of experienced growers on the topic of drying the bulbs. >> >Dry your garlic in a dry, airy, DARK place - like inside an old barn. >Give each plant space so it isn't touching any other. >DO NOT dry garlic in the sun unless you want to ruin it. I second "not in the sun," but dark isn't necessary. I hang the plants by their leaves in our screen room, or one year I got lazy and just spread them out on top of a box in the same location, and they dried just fine. The key here is not to put them in direct sunlight, not to avoid light altogether. This year, I'm trying elephant garlic. It should be interesting to see how it compares with the regular stuff (which I'm also growing). No garden should be without garlic! -- Jilara [jane@swdc.stratus.com] "Every now and then, a big rock falls out of the sky, and everyone has a *very bad* day." --from the PBS "Dinosaurs" special. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!olivea!stratus!soave!jane Sat May 22 00:01:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17453 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!olivea!stratus!soave!jane From: jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pansies--to pinch or not to pinch? Message-ID: <9490.16412@stratus.SWDC.Stratus.COM> Date: 20 May 93 23:27:29 GMT References: <1993Apr25.170816.5613@socrates.umd.edu> Sender: news@SWDC.Stratus.COM Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc., San Jose, CA Lines: 13 I used to pinch back my pansies, until the year I forgot and they bloomed more lushly than ever before. I'm not claiming that was why, but I've found since then (at least in California) that pinching makes little difference in the blooming. Pinching, deadheading, none of these things seem to affect them. What *does* affect them is water and weather. If they don't get enough water, or the weather gets too hot, they don't bloom well at all. -- Jilara [jane@swdc.stratus.com] "Every now and then, a big rock falls out of the sky, and everyone has a *very bad* day." --from the PBS "Dinosaurs" special. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!boulder!ucsu!rintintin.Colorado.EDU!templin Sat May 22 00:01:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17454 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!boulder!ucsu!rintintin.Colorado.EDU!templin From: templin@rintintin.Colorado.EDU (Templin Geri-Ellen) Subject: Re: Why Cats? Message-ID: <1993May20.222146.23924@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> Keywords: cats Sender: news@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: rintintin.colorado.edu Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder References: Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 22:21:46 GMT Lines: 10 In article dlee@UIUC writes: [....] >Anyone else have the same experience? I thought mine were just weird.... I'll chime in. Turbo is normally very hands off, but working in the yard she has to be all over me, rolling in the dirt and checking out what I'm doing. All I can figure is that she thinks I'm normally pretty boring, but when I'm in the yard I'm doing something she can relate to. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!ariela!jmasters Sat May 22 00:01:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17455 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!appserv.Eng.Sun.COM!ariela!jmasters From: jmasters@ariela.Eng.Sun.COM (Joan Masters) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Can I Save Unplanted Bulbs? Date: 20 May 1993 22:00:58 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: Reply-To: jmasters@ariela.Eng.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: ariela I ordered a lot of bulbs (daffodils, tulips, iris) and planted about half in my yard. My daughter wanted the others, but she didn't plant them. They have been in a box in the garage. Can I either plant them late...or save them for next year? I live in the San Francisco Bay Area of California and its already starting to get warm. --- Joan Masters joan.masters@Eng.Sun.COM From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Sat May 22 00:01:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17456 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Black Widows in Ontario? Date: 21 May 1993 00:04:50 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 48 Message-ID: <1th6b2$7ll@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) says: >All the talk about poisonous snakes has reminded me of a question that >has nagged me everytime I see an unusual (irregular) spider web in the >garden or yard. > >I have heard that black widow spiders are indiginous to Ontario, yet I >have never seen one in all my hiking, nor have I met someone who has >seen one in Ontario. > >Nonetheless, a pet shop owner told me that the reason they are not >sold in Ontario is due to their indiginous habit in the province. I >have also heard 3rd hand mentions of them. There's a much better reason why they aren't sold in pet shops--they're dangerous as hell, one of the world's most poisonous spiders. Although the initial bite is often painless, the victim is soon in the grip of horrifyingly painful abdominal cramps and spasms that leave the abdomen as rigid as a board. The poison also affects the heart. If no treatment is given the fatality rate is 5% They occur throughout N. America but are commoner in warmer areas. >I have heard first hand stories of encounters (bites and sightings) in >British Columbia, but I'd like to hear of such "first hand" in >Ontario. Failing that, how about places right along the border in, >say, New York or Mn. > >I would also appreciate hearing about where to find the >brown recluse spider. I know they exist locally, but would like to >know where to look for them (eg: dark, damp places?). Best advice, don't look. But you've got the locations right. These are very nasty customers as well. The bite leaves a supparating eschar that lasts as long as there is any poison in the bite--sometimes a couple of weeks. Their poison also casues heart problems. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * DECONSTRUCTION--- the critical method invented A-B College * by Procrustes Philippi, WV * * From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!world!dholmes Sat May 22 00:01:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17457 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!world!dholmes From: dholmes@world.std.com (Tom Repasky) Subject: Organic gardening in Slovakia Message-ID: Summary: 300,000 small Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 00:45:32 GMT Lines: 3 plots of land are now being used by Keywords: Slovakian organic gardens From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!ogicse!qiclab!arts!lily!palepink Sat May 22 00:01:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17458 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!ogicse!qiclab!arts!lily!palepink From: palepink@lily.arts.com (Suzii Abe) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Salt Lake City--Summer Bloomers Message-ID: <2L2u4B1w165w@lily.arts.com> Date: 20 May 93 18:09:12 GMT Article-I.D.: lily.2L2u4B1w165w Lines: 43 I forget who was asking about summer flowers in Salt Lake-- my machine didn't save the post long enough for me to check with my mom on blooming times. In Salt Lake, everything depends on where you are. If you're on the mountain slopes (above Wasatch Blvd. or Foothill Dr.) your best bet is to be infinitely grateful for the scrub oak and cherish any perennials that volunteer. Your neighbors will have some lovely perennials and won't tell you about the ones they've lost. Roses will bloom, but you'll be jealous of the people a mile downhill. Plant annuals--poppies, petunias, morning-glory, depending on your personality, or go native. Drive to the end of Little Cottonwood Canyon with a wildflower book and find out what's blooming in Albion Basin. Below 5000 feet, roses bloom from May to November in an average year; my mother has sometimes cut one for my dresser when I'm home at Christmas. Peonies and buttercups are June (which makes me suspect that ranunculus hybrids would be good) in shady spots. Columbines start in June and last until the first of August. Hollyhocks are strong through the summer. Most of the splashy color in the valley in summer, though, is annuals. Which brings me to the flower that's the essence of Salt Lake summers to me--the gloriosa daisy (rudbeckia hirta?). These are annuals which will self-seed, which will spread to fill space if they're invited to, but which aren't invasive. Put them in a sunny or partly sunny spot and nobody will notice that you don't have any other flowers around. (Do not, however, introduce them if you don't like orange and red.) One last thing--the most beautiful thing in Salt Lake in the summer is a green shady place. If you're lucky enough to have a tangle of scrub oak, naturalize a variety of spring bulbs underneath it and fill in with sweet woodruff (gallium odoratum) as a ground cover. It's a brighter green than vinca or ivy and it has those fairyland white flowers in May. Someone here recently called it invasive--which it may be, in gentler climes, but in Salt Lake it should stay fairly well put. --Suzii. palepink@lily.arts.com From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc Sat May 22 00:01:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17459 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc From: billmc@microsoft.com (Bill McJohn) Subject: Re: Sage flowers Message-ID: <1993May20.231029.9091@microsoft.com> Date: 20 May 93 23:10:29 GMT Organization: Microsoft Corporation References: <1993May19.194037.13808@ncar.ucar.edu> Lines: 20 In article <1993May19.194037.13808@ncar.ucar.edu> ilana@kiowa.scd.ucar.edu (Ilana Stern) writes: >My sage appears to be about to flower. I planted it two years ago, and >this is the first time I have seen buds on it (one large reddish bud at >the top of each stem). Should I pinch them off, or allow them to flower? > >(This is just ordinary garden sage, Salvia Something-or-other.) > Salvia officinalis. If you're growing it for harvest, now is the time to harvest--the essential oils in most herbs are strongest just before they flower. (A two-year-old plant may not provide much to harvest, though). I let my sage bushes flower. They have beautiful blue spikes which are attractive to bees. I prune them back firmly after they've flowered, and the branches put out new growth pretty quickly over the summer. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat May 22 00:01:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17460 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Late Lettuce Message-ID: <1993May20.134547.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 20 May 93 13:45:47 MDT References: Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 11 In article , hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > Everything I've read/heard tells me that I should have started lettuce > long ago, but that it's not too late. I'm starting seedlings in peat > pots (jiffy pots) and keeping them inside the house, which should be > cool enough to allow germination. When I put them outside in the sun, > though (current daytime temps mid-70s to low-80s), will they then be > able to survive? Do I need to protect them somewhat? Survival won't be a problem. Problem is that in hot weather lettuce gets very bitter, so the earlier you plant it the longer season you have for good-tasting lettuce. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!chai Sat May 22 00:01:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17461 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!chai From: chai@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Tippi Chai) Subject: Re: Houseplant gift Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <1tfuvmINNnr8@early-bird.think.com> <20MAY199309500491@mars.lerc.nasa.gov> <1993May20.205354.14119@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 02:43:04 GMT Lines: 27 kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) writes: >cazimme@mars.lerc.nasa.gov (Martin Zimmerman) writes: >>Two plants no one in my family has ever been able to murder are the Kalanchoe >>called the "Pregnant Plant" or "Mexican Hat Plant" and the Pothos, which > >Kalanchoe blooms its little head off for me. There are kalanchoes, and there are kalanchoes. Kalanchoe daigremontiana and K. tubiflora are grown for the plantlets that grow along the leaf margins; these are the "Pregnant plants". Kathleen's belong to the "other" kalanchoes, e.g. K. manginii (and hybrids?) that are grown for the flowers. Flowering kalanchoes are a good gift idea but not that easy to rebloom for a brown thumb. The spider plant is also a good gift. If given enough light, water, and warmth, it will flower (as it makes the "spiders") but the blooms are not showy. For foliage plants, try the "Cast Iron Plant", Aspidistra elatior - in a word, TOUGH! **********"We all breathe the same air" KaTe Bush Tippi Chai, Toronto, Canada Disclaimer: all opinions, pinions and onions expressed herein are solely mine. -- **********"We all breathe the same air" KaTe Bush Tippi Chai, Toronto, Canada Disclaimer: all opinions, pinions and onions expressed herein are solely mine. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!cs.yale.edu!news Sat May 22 00:01:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17462 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!cs.yale.edu!news From: judi@laplace.csb.yale.edu (Judith S. Janette) Subject: Re: Why Cats? Message-ID: <1993May21.031742.22416@cs.yale.edu> Sender: news@cs.yale.edu (Usenet News) Nntp-Posting-Host: hilbert.biology.yale.edu Reply-To: judi@laplace.csb.yale.edu (Judith S. Janette) Organization: Yale University, Department of Computer Science, New Haven, CT References: Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 03:17:42 GMT Lines: 28 Here are the definitive answers to your questions. Aren't you glad you asked? Why do cats...> >A) - roll around in the furrows? Cats enjoy undoing anything a mere human has just done, especially if it was difficult to do or time consuming. It is somehow necessary. >B) - insist on sitting on (a) the spot I'm trying to plant in, or > (b) the spot I've just planted in? See the answer to A. >C) - walking slowly and methodically across the garden, taking care > to step on only the spots where I've planted seeds? Once again, the above response pertains. Sorry. >D) - generally being abnormally affectionate - like I'm planting the > garden for THEM? You ARE planting it for them! How could you be so silly as to think it's YOUR garden. To a cat, that is the highest form of human arrogance! -Judi Janette (gardener and horticulturist to Bruce the Cat, patron of whatever garden he wants). > > Anyone else have this experience? > > - Gary Hypes - From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpl-opus!hpspdla!chris Sat May 22 00:01:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17463 of rec.gardens From: chris@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM (Chris Bostak) Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 21:28:42 GMT Subject: Re: Advice on Turf Laying Message-ID: <14680006@hpspdla.spd.HP.COM> Organization: HP Stanford Park - Palo Alto, CA Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpl-opus!hpspdla!chris Newsgroups: rec.gardens References: <1993May18.053911.18702@walter.cray.com> Lines: 20 My wise father has told me on several occasions the most important rule when laying sod: Green side up! 8*) Sorry, I couldn't resist. Chris ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chris Bostak | chris@spd.hp.com HP Video Communications Division | (415) 857-2075 1501 Page Mill Road, Palo Alto, CA 94304 | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - The number you have dialed is imaginary. Please hang up, rotate your phone 90 degrees, and dial again. - ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!engage.sps.mot.com!fmbutt Sat May 22 00:01:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17464 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!engage.sps.mot.com!fmbutt From: fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq M. Butt) Subject: Re: Sick Oak Tree Message-ID: Sender: news@oakhill.sps.mot.com Nntp-Posting-Host: engage Organization: Motorola RISC Software, Austin, TX References: <1993May20.134652.20808@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 03:22:30 GMT Lines: 38 In article mglacy@lamar.ColoState.EDU () writes: >In article <1993May20.134652.20808@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> csjan@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Jan B. Faires) writes: >>We planted a pin oak a couple of years ago. Last year it's >>leaves turned yellowish-green and fell off early. It didn't >>die, but the small leaves this spring are also very pale. >>Can I give it some oak food? Is there something out there >>attacking pin oaks? How can I help it? >Pale leaves *with* the veins remaining dark green is pretty specifically >diagnostic for chlorosis, an iron deficiency commonly suffered by trees >(esp. pin oaks) in midwestern soils. The alkalinity of the soil makes >any iron present in the soil biologically unvailable. There are some >commercial iron supplements, with an accompanying slow release source >of acid. Unfortunately, I don't remember any specific names (generic >or brand names) for such treatments. >=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=-=-= >Mike Lacy, Sociology Dept. CSU and I have a deal: We don't take >Colo. State Univ. responsibility for one another's opinions. >Fort Collins CO 80523 voice (303) 491-6721 Ironite (TM) has worked absolute wonders for me. I believe it's 4.5 % iron by weight, but it's so darn expensive. Does anyone have a better idea for providing iron to highly alkaline soils ? I have also seen common lawn fertilizer that has 4% sulfur and 1% iron (and 15% nitrogen) which is extremely cheap, but would that even work as far as iron-enrichment goes. Every darn plant I have fed Ironite to in Austin's cruddy soil seems to love it ('specially my Texas Ash that has chloriosis something awful... fmb -- Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightest relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!hacgate!oracle2!deeds Sat May 22 00:01:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17465 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!hacgate!oracle2!deeds From: deeds@oracle2 (Deanna J. Deeds) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sage flowers Message-ID: <35181@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> Date: 20 May 93 16:26:50 GMT References: <1993May19.194037.13808@ncar.ucar.edu> Sender: news@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM Reply-To: deeds@solaria.hac.com Lines: 17 X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6] Ilana Stern (ilana@kiowa.scd.ucar.edu) wrote: : My sage appears to be about to flower. I planted it two years ago, and : this is the first time I have seen buds on it (one large reddish bud at : the top of each stem). Should I pinch them off, or allow them to flower? : : (This is just ordinary garden sage, Salvia Something-or-other.) Oh, let them flower! Spring is their time to flower. Those reddish buds will become a spray of most lovely blue. Then after they're done you can cut the bush back a bit. They're not like the annuals like basil where you have to constantly pinch and pinch to persuade them from going to seed and dying on you. It took my sage a couple of years before they decided to flower, too. Enjoy them! The herb garden is so pretty in flower. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Deanna J. Deeds deeds@solaria.hac.com From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!news.UVic.CA!nic.bc.ca!broughton Sat May 22 00:01:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17466 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!news.UVic.CA!nic.bc.ca!broughton From: broughton@nicad3.nic.bc.ca Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Late Lettuce Message-ID: <1993May20.161817.58@nicad3.nic.bc.ca> Date: 20 May 93 16:18:17 -0800 References: Organization: North Island College Lines: 15 In article , hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > Everything I've read/heard tells me that I should have started lettuce > long ago, but that it's not too late. I'm starting seedlings in peat > pots (jiffy pots) and keeping them inside the house, which should be > cool enough to allow germination. When I put them outside in the sun, > though (current daytime temps mid-70s to low-80s), will they then be > able to survive? Do I need to protect them somewhat? > > The varieties I'm using are Buttercrunch and Grand Rapids. > > Thanks one and all, > > Gary Hypes They'll survive ok, they'll just bolt to seed really quickly. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsb.cb.att.com!mcarey Sat May 22 00:01:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17467 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsb.cb.att.com!mcarey From: mcarey@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (michael.e.carey) Subject: Tomatoe blite? Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 17:20:40 GMT Lines: 40 Hello, His is my first year at attempting to plant a semi-serious vegitable garden. I have to say that so far, things are not going well. I would appreciate any advice anyone has for the following problems. 1. Snow Peas: I planted these in mid April and they came up right on schedule (about 7 days after planting). They grew slowly for a while then we got a hot spell a couple of weeks ago and things haven't been right since. The spell lasted for about 4 days. I was very sunny and 90+. Also, during that time I sprayed 2,4-D on the lawn so drift is a possibility. Since about mid-way through the hot spell, the peas started turning yellow. Thy have not grown at all in about 2 weeks and look very sick. They are not wilted (turger pressure is ok) the just look yellow and sickly. 2. Tomatoes: I planted 30 tomatoe plants in the middle of the hot spell. The next day after planting the plants did not look good. They were all twisted and wilted looking although there turger pressure was also OK. I planted these after I sprayed the lawn. They appear to be doing a little better except for the fact that now there are little brown spots on the leaves. Is this some kind of blite? The spots are about 2 mm in diameter. It is not just the garden that is looking bad. Rasberry bushes also look wilted (twisted). My large maple trees have wilted leaves but that situation is improving. Could the recent hot spell have caused this? I am mainly interested in what I might need to do with the garden. This is the first planting for this garden spot so the problems also might be related to that fact. To prepare the site, I removed the sod (I needed it in another location) and roto-tilled the top 6". The soil looks good but I am wondering if it is infertal because I took the top layer off with the sod. Could my problems be related to nitrogen deficiency? I have not fertilized or amended the soil in any way. I do not want to do anything until I know what is needed. Any ideas? Michael From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Sat May 22 00:01:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17468 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Windbreak/Screen suggestions? Message-ID: From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Date: Thu, 20 May 1993 16:14:56 GMT Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 13 We live in the Sacramento Valley (USDA zone 9;Sunset zone 14). We have a property line that is 300' deep with exposure to the main road which is a house away--150'. We would like to plant a row of trees/hedges that would screen us from the road and provide privacy. The soil along that side is a clay which is under water every time it rains more than 3/4". During the rest of the year, it is fairly dry. 150' of the line is in sheep pasture, so we need a plant that is not poisonous. We'd also like a tree with a narrow profile, so we could still plant other plants. We've thought of pines and redwoods (may be too dry?). We are on a water meter, so we'd prefer plants on the drought tolerant side. Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA bmoon@eis.calstate.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!eddie.mit.edu!uhog.mit.edu!news.media.mit.edu!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Sat May 22 00:01:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17469 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!eddie.mit.edu!uhog.mit.edu!news.media.mit.edu!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: Is my dogwood sick Message-ID: <1993May19.160809.24357@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 16:08:09 GMT Lines: 30 Molly McDaniel asks: > >Our dogwood is also looking ill. We planted it last year, it bloomed, >but this year we have little buds that never opened to real blooms. >We've fertilized, but seems to make no difference. So I have the same >question as the other dogwood post -- is it sick or resting? Is there >anything we can do? It's a pink dogwood, about 6 feet tall. We got >another dogwood at the same time, a white one planted on the other >side of the house, and it bloomed 3 weeks ago. > >Thanks. >From my reading in rec.arts.bonsai I have gathered that the worst thing you can do for a sick plant is to fertilize it and yet this is the first thing that most people do. I would like to know what the collective net wisdom and the wisdom of plant cognoscenti (Kay? ohters?) are on this subject. In response to Molly's question, I have one of my own: Is your tree growing (i.e. new green growth)? If yes, don't worry too much. If no, then you should be worried; seek further help elsewhere fast. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!gatech!emory!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!news.media.mit.edu!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Sat May 22 00:01:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17470 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!emory!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!news.media.mit.edu!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: Save my flowers from Chipmunks Message-ID: <1993May19.161150.24543@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Distribution: na Date: Wed, 19 May 1993 16:11:50 GMT Lines: 39 pkumar@worldbank.org (Piyush Kumar 880/40 R6070 32319) asks: >New to this group, pardon my ignorance... > ---deletion----------- >In short, it seems that every time I water the baby plants, these fellows >come up and start digging up the pots. They don't eat the plants >themselves, just seem to be looking for something in the soil, in the >process uproot and damage/kill the plants. > >How can I get rid of them? I really don't want to kill them (I am not sure >how I would feel if they continue for long...), just some form of >repellants. Sometime ago somebody had advised on the net to sprinkle cloves >to keep away bunnies....doesn't work for chipmunks. Couldn't find any >suitable pesticide at Hechinger. Need help, am desperate..... > >Piyush You don't say where you are located, but I'll bet that you haven't had any rain in quite a while there. The poor little suckers are thirsty and think that if they dig down in your plants they will find the underground spring that surely must be supplying that dampness. I live in Mass. and a couple of years ago the chipmunks ate my jade plant. It took me quite a while to figure that they were interested in it for its water content. I put out some water for them and they left my jade plant alone. (Unfortunately, it was too late and the jade plant succumbed.:'( ) You could also put out succulent pieces of fruit, but that may attract raccoons and there is a raccoon rabies epizootic from DC to MA at this time so if you life in that area you probably should stick to water or at least something which isn't sweet. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!leafusa!lorinda Sat May 22 00:02:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17471 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!leafusa!lorinda From: lorinda@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Lorinda Brandon) Subject: Re: The Yard's in Bloom, again. (an essay) Message-ID: Keywords: weeds, humor, femur, essay Sender: usenet@HQ.Ileaf.COM Nntp-Posting-Host: alan Organization: Interleaf, Inc. References: <1993May20.182955.1808@news.mentorg.com> Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 11:14:38 GMT Lines: 23 Las summer my husband and I purchased our first home and this is our first spring with our yard. We discovered that we have some lovely weeds springing up - tiny white mayflowers in the grass, wintergreen in the shady areas and tons of wild blueberries and wild lily of the valley in our woods and along the edges of our yard. Our first knee-jerk reaction was "oh no we have weeds!" So one evening we sat in the backyard planning our attack, and it gradually dawned on both of us that mayflowers are darned pretty against the green grass. And wintergreen smells great! And the blueberries bring plenty of birds to our yard. And no-one can kill wild lily of the valley. So now we just point all of these things out to guests as part of the ambience of our home, as if we planted them all ourselves. And last weekend, my toddler made a little bouquet of mayflowers. Moral of the story: love 'em *and* leave 'em! From samba!concert!gatech!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail Sat May 22 00:02:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17472 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: My rhododendron didn't flower Date: 21 May 1993 08:27:53 -0500 Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway Lines: 42 Sender: daemon@cs.utexas.edu Message-ID: <9305211328.AA00781@im4> NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu In article: <36077@oasys.dt.navy.mil> buyer@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Janet Buyer) asked: >My parents 20-year old rhododendron didn't flower this spring, although >it has every other year. My sister says she fertilized it with a fertilizer >made especially for rhododendrons and did so according to the directions, >including when they recommended it should be fertilized. I don't think >we ever fertilized it before except for an occasional splash with Miracid >a few summers ago. Was it the fertilizer that made it not flower this >year? We also cut down a maple tree that was right next to it about >a month ago, so it may be getting slightly more sun than before. Does >anyone have any comments or suggestions? > >Thanks in advance, > >Janet Buyer > There may be several reasons that your rhody didn't flower. 1. It never made flower buds last summer. (Could have been too much fertilizer if applied in May or June.) 2. It was pruned after the flower buds were formed (any time after about July 4th will do this). 3. Something else destroyed the flower buds after they were formed. (Bugs - very possible; winter cold/drying winds - slight possiblilty; or ???) You have to determine if it had flower buds at the beginning of winter. Leaf buds are thin and short with no bulge. Flower buds are fat and much begger than the leaf buds. If it had flower buds going into the winter then something happened to them. I very much doubt that cutting down the maple sould have damaged flower buds. It might cause sunburn on the leaves (that happened to everyone here in eastern Mass. this winter because of the late snowcover) but it wouldn't cause the flower buds to die. Over fertilizing before the buds were formed could cause the bush to make only leaf buds. So we are left with a mystery. --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!surrey.amigans.gen.nz!lynx Sat May 22 00:02:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17473 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!surrey.amigans.gen.nz!lynx Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Houseplant gift Message-ID: From: lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz (Lynsey Gedye) Date: 21 May 93 19:53:02 GMT-12 References: <1tfuvmINNnr8@early-bird.think.com> Distribution: world Organization: Prime Line, Wanganui, New Zealand Lines: 25 In article <1tfuvmINNnr8@early-bird.think.com> George T. Pearson writes: >I have a dear friend who loves plants but is not particularly gifted with >a green thumb. I would like to give him a nice houseplant for his >upcoming birthday. Any suggestions for a pretty indoor plant, >preferrably one that blooms and is relatively hardy? He lives in the >Northeast and does have a couple of windows to get sunshine. Thanks! A batchelor friend of ours has a huge Begonia lucerna - the cane stemmed spotted Angel Wing Begonia. Flowers, tough, and not soppy. I dare not mention bromeliads - Neoregelias and Guzmania give colour while waiting for flowers. Mega-tough. Cattleya orchids - man, they can withstand anything! Pelagonium/geraniums - ditto. Sparmannia africana - flowers a bit woosy, but a guy can feel pretty good having a decent tree inside the house. Schlumbergera/Zygocactus - the old xmas/easter cactus. Got a yellow one yet Bruce? -- lynx@surrey.amigans.gen.nz lynx@amigans.gen.nz From samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Sat May 22 00:02:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17474 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: Tomatoe blite? Message-ID: <1993May21.133527.9964@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Distribution: na Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 13:35:27 GMT Lines: 52 In article: mcarey@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (michael.e.carey) asks: >Hello, > >His is my first year at attempting to plant a semi-serious vegitable >garden. I have to say that so far, things are not going well. I >would appreciate any advice anyone has for the following problems. > >1. Snow Peas: I planted these in mid April and they came up ---deletion---- >4 days. I was very sunny and 90+. Also, during that time I >sprayed 2,4-D on the lawn so drift is a possibility. Since ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >about mid-way through the hot spell, the peas started turning >yellow. Thy have not grown at all in about 2 weeks and look >very sick. They are not wilted (turger pressure is ok) the >just look yellow and sickly. > >2. Tomatoes: I planted 30 tomatoe plants in the middle of the >hot spell. The next day after planting the plants did not >look good. They were all twisted and wilted looking although there ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >turger pressure was also OK. I planted these after I sprayed the lawn. > >It is not just the garden that is looking bad. Rasberry bushes ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >also look wilted (twisted). My large maple trees have wilted leaves ^^^^^^^ >but that situation is improving. Could the recent hot spell have >caused this? I am mainly interested in what I might need --------deletion-------- >Any ideas? >Michael The twisted and wilted description fits 2-4-D damage to a T. The hot weather would exagerate the effects of 2-4-D on your plants (makes all their chemical operations go into high gear while putting a lot of stress on them). Please be more careful with your deadly chemicals. I hope your neighbors aren't experiencing problems caused by your spraying. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Sat May 22 00:02:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17475 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Re: Albuquerque Gardens? Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <1tgc7p$24g@bigboote.WPI.EDU> <1993May20.170402.11772@bmers95.bnr.ca> Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 13:24:21 GMT Lines: 23 In article ringrose@iastate.edu (Sharon L Ringrose) writes: > >I'll be in Albuquerque next week and I was wondering >if there are any interesting gardens that I should check >out. I'll be leaving Saturday so any info that you >could post or e-mail before 5 pm tomorrow (Friday) >would be profoundly appreciated. > (lines omitted) I was there last year, and the best "garden" to see is not a garden at all, but is the "Turquoise Trail"--an alternate route to Santa Fe. It goes through beautiful desert, and I stopped many times to admire different things in bloom, vistas, or just to listen to the silence (the first silence I had heard in years). Check out the marigold-like plant growing in the cracks along the sides of the highway. The leaves smelled great (you will smell it even from your car). Can anyone tell me what it is? It had little yellow marigold-like flowers, and the foilage also looked like marigold. I though it might be "tagetes", but the "tagetes" I see at the nursery looks different. Dave Daulton From samba!concert!gatech!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!buyer Sat May 22 00:02:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17476 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!buyer From: buyer@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Janet Buyer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Advice Sought in Building Stone Retaining Wall Message-ID: <36149@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 21 May 93 14:33:51 GMT Reply-To: buyer@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Janet Buyer) Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 25 I have a sloping back yard that at one time was sort of terraced using railroad ties that have since rotted. The height of the wall that I want to replace is only one or two ties high. What I want to do is replace the ties with stones that I have already purchased for this purpose, only make the wall taller by moving some of the earth from the down hillside to the uphill of the wall. This way, I can expand the flat portion of land above the wall and get a little more usable space out of my back yard. Have I painted this picture good enough? Well, I know this is a big job and one that would normally require a stone mason, but I thought I would try to do it myself. I bought 8 tons of "eastern mountain wall" rock and got two pages of instructions from the flagstone store. I want to make this a "dry" wall, without using any mortar, except for possibly the foundation and maybe the top layer of rocks to keep them shifting. I've looked for books in the library that deal particularly with this subject, but haven't found any that are satisfactory. I am looking for more information on the construction of such a wall, with the maximum height at one end going up to as much as 4 feet. Does anyone have any experience with this type of retaining wall or can anyone make a recommendation of reference books? Thanks in advance, Janet Buyer From samba!concert!gatech!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!convex!sunova!NewsWatcher!user Sat May 22 00:02:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17477 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!convex!sunova!NewsWatcher!user From: (Wes Smith) Subject: Re: Sick Oak Tree Message-ID: <1993May21.142736.6258@sunova.ssc.gov> Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@sunova.ssc.gov (News Admin) Nntp-Posting-Host: 143.202.102.36 Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory References: <1993May20.134652.20808@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 14:27:36 GMT Lines: 33 In article , fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq M. Butt) wrote: > Ironite (TM) has worked absolute wonders for me. I believe it's > 4.5 % iron by weight, but it's so darn expensive. Does anyone > have a better idea for providing iron to highly alkaline > soils ? I have also seen common lawn fertilizer that has > 4% sulfur and 1% iron (and 15% nitrogen) which is extremely cheap, > but would that even work as far as iron-enrichment goes. Every > darn plant I have fed Ironite to in Austin's cruddy soil seems > to love it ('specially my Texas Ash that has chloriosis something > awful... > > fmb As you mentioned above, Ironite is an iron-sulphur product, and there are other products which contain this mixture (the sulphur acidifies the soil so that the plant can obtain the iron, which tends to be "tied up" chemically in alkaline soils). This is another way of saying that there are other Fe-S products available, but I personally have not found any that were nearly as cost effective as Ironite (even as expensive as it is, try Home Depot for the best price). I use lawn fertilizers that contain similiar percentages of Fe-S to what you described. I experimented this spring with a lawn application of Ironite, in addition to the fertilizer, and my grass is far greener than I've ever seen it. My hollies also responded very well to an application. IMO, Ironite is worth the money. If someone knows of a generic or low-cost version of Ironite, they could probably sell it by the truckload in Texas. At least in the the western 2/3 of the state. If you are preparing soil for future plantings, peat moss will provide some acidity (and organic matter, another missing component of Texas soil), but I would still work in some Ironite. Wes (Dallas' soil is probably worse than Austin's) Smith From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uwm.edu!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat May 22 00:02:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17478 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uwm.edu!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Can I plants annuals over spring bulbs? Message-ID: <1993May21.105937.13254@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 May 93 10:59:37 -0600 References: <1993May7.225255.11889@ntmtv> <1993May18.162438.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> <93140.080816TMH1@psuvm.psu.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 20 In article <93140.080816TMH1@psuvm.psu.edu>, Tina Hay @ Penn State writes: > In article <1993May18.162438.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca>, thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca says: > >>Just use plants that will grow taller than the tulips, and leave the tulip >>leaves to die back naturally. This will allow the bulbs to store energy >>for the next year, and the over-planted plants will grow above the tulips, >>hiding the dying tulip leaves from view. > > You also can bundle up the tulip foliage, fold it over to make it more > compact, and tie a rubber band (or gum band, as they say in Western Pa. > where I grew up) around it. That makes things look less scraggly. When the > tulip foliage finally turns brown and you can separate it from the bulb with > a gentle tug, it's ready to be pulled up. This is great for the neat-freaks, but hard on the bulbs (as is a similar practice of braiding the leaves). The leaves don't get enough sunlight, so the bulbs don't store enough energy, so next year the flowers and bulbs are fewer and smaller.... vicious cycle. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!wellesley.edu!pattie.wellesley.edu!mwolf Sat May 22 00:02:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17479 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!wellesley.edu!pattie.wellesley.edu!mwolf From: mwolf@pattie.wellesley.edu Subject: I want a quick, living fence Message-ID: <21MAY93.16325896@pattie.wellesley.edu> Sender: news@olaf.wellesley.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: pattie.wellesley.edu Organization: WELLESLEY COLLEGE Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 21:32:58 GMT Lines: 13 I need to install a visual barrier, approximately 24' wide and 6' high. I would rather plant some fast growing, fast filling in deciduous shrubs, rather that building a fence. I specify deciduous, because I don't need the privacy during the cold months of the year, and I assume I can achieve thicker, more rapid coverage with a deciduous shrub than with a coniferous one. The 6' height is the minimum that I need. I would like to know the names of the shrubs that you would recommend as well as the minimum space that I must leave between them. I live in southern Worcester County, Massachusetts, which is in inland southern New England. Thanks in advance for any sugestions! Mur Wolf From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!monsanto.com!bb1t.monsanto.com!rghoff Sat May 22 00:02:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17480 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!monsanto.com!bb1t.monsanto.com!rghoff From: rghoff@bb1t.monsanto.com Subject: Re: Dandelion control Message-ID: <1993May21.111652.1@bb1t.monsanto.com> Lines: 16 Sender: news@tin.monsanto.com (USENET News System) Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO References: Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 17:16:52 GMT In article , mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu (Michael E. Hedman) writes: > > In trying to control dandelions organically, I have put many hours into > digging them up, roots and all and spraying what might be left with a mixture > of vinegar, dishwashing soap, and listerine. At any rate, about this time of ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's considered organic? I'll stick to digging them up and maybe spot treatment with Ortho (only takes a little tiny squirt) when I hit a big patch of little guys. Works for me. Rick Hoffman. From samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!csus.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker Sat May 22 00:02:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17481 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!csus.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker From: fzbaker@dale.ucdavis.edu (Sharon D. Baker) Subject: Re: Garden ponds Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Administrator) Organization: University of California, Davis X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3 References: <1993May9.121838.1@musctn.monsanto.com> Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 16:03:34 GMT Lines: 24 A really good source of liners, filters, plants, pumps and fish is: Lilypons Water Gardens (3 locations) P.O. Box 10 Buckeystown, MD 21717-0010 1-800-999-5459 OR P.O. Box 188 Brookshire, TX 77423-0188 1-800-765-5459 OR P.O. Box 1130 Thermal, CA 92274-1130 1-800-365-5459 -- Sharon D. Baker sdbaker@ucdavis.edu (916) 752-9946 From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!lcatlett Sat May 22 00:02:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17482 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!lcatlett From: lcatlett@carson.u.washington.edu (Lynn Catlett) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: The Yard's in Bloom, again. (an essay) Date: 21 May 1993 16:34:03 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 10 Message-ID: <1tj09rINNh0e@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1993May20.182955.1808@news.mentorg.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu Keywords: weeds, humor, femur, essay In article lorinda@HQ.Ileaf.COM (Lorinda Brandon) writes: >mayflowers in the grass, wintergreen in the shady areas and Around here, one pays $6+ for a gallon pot of wintergreen to plant into dry/shady places ON PURPOSE!! You're rich! :} Lynn Catlett lcatlett@u.washington.edu From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!usc!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!news.sinet.slb.com!aa.cad.slb.com!exs Sat May 22 00:02:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17483 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!usc!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!news.sinet.slb.com!aa.cad.slb.com!exs From: exs@ann-arbor.applicon.slb.com (Eugene Szedenits Jr.) Subject: Re: Houseplant gift Sender: usenet@ann-arbor.applicon.slb.com (Usenet Administrator) Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 15:18:57 GMT Message-ID: <1993May21.151857.12551@ann-arbor.applicon.slb.com> Organization: Schlumberger CAD/CAM; Ann Arbor, Michigan (USA) References: <1tfuvmINNnr8@early-bird.think.com> Lines: 22 In article <1tfuvmINNnr8@early-bird.think.com> George T. Pearson writes: >I have a dear friend who loves plants but is not particularly gifted with >a green thumb. I would like to give him a nice houseplant for his >upcoming birthday. Any suggestions for a pretty indoor plant, >preferrably one that blooms and is relatively hardy? He lives in the >Northeast and does have a couple of windows to get sunshine. Thanks! I am also death to indoor plants. Chinese evergreen (aglaonema ?) have survived my care for two years thus far. The plants are extremely tolerant of neglect and low light. They are mainly used for foliage, which can be variegated. They bloom occasionally, especially when slightly crowded in the pot, but the flower is not very impressive, a small white thing that tends to hide under the leaves. Lower leaves yellow and wither periodically, but this seems to be no cause for alarm. Just remove them and discard. Except for the lack of blooms, I think these are perfect for your requirements. Agent Orange :x From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!sono!doran Sat May 22 00:02:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17484 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!sono!doran From: doran@acuson.com (David Doran) Subject: Re: Strawberries, birds, and rubber snakes Message-ID: <1993May21.132620.13422@acuson.com> Keywords: strawberries Organization: Acuson; Mountain View, California References: <1th37r$hef@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 13:26:20 GMT Lines: 18 davidr@jetsam.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) writes: >>Has anyone had success keeping birds away with imitation critters of any kind? >>Would a bigger snake work, or maybe a plaster cat? Between the birds and the >>ants I'm almost ready to pull the plants out, though I really don't want to. > >I've heard that strips of mattallic streamers (such as what is >available at a party store) do well. You rope off the area with >the streamers with enough slack to move in the breeze. >Supposedly this scares them (Although SOME birds like crows would >be attracted to it!). I've never tried it, but I've seen I've found magnetic tape from an old cassette stretched tightly between posts works. In even a modest breeze it makes a kind of whooshing noise not unlike birds' wings. Plastic owls didn't do a thing. From samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!sdd.hp.com!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat May 22 00:02:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17485 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!sdd.hp.com!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rhubarb Message-ID: <1993May21.123732.13257@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 May 93 12:37:32 -0600 References: <1993May19.124800.5582@walter.cray.com> <1tgc7p$24g@bigboote.WPI.EDU> <1993May20.170402.11772@bmers95.bnr.ca> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 15 In article <1993May20.170402.11772@bmers95.bnr.ca>, mmckenna@bnr.ca (Michael McKenna) writes: > My understanding is that the leaves contain a certain level of poison - I had originally thought that it was just burdock (some kind of rhubarb relative) that was poisonous, but my wife tells me otherwise. Rhubarb leaves have significant quantities of oxalic acid in them. Oxalic acid binds with calcium ions-- if it does that in your bloodstream, you're in big trouble, since Ca ions help regulate nerve impulse. Rhubarb is in the Polygonaceae, the knotweed and buckwheat family. Burdock is in the Compositae = Asteraceae, the sunflower family. Not at all closely related. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!seeley Sat May 22 00:02:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17486 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!seeley From: seeley@cerl.uiuc.edu (Joseph Seeley) Subject: Re: Dandelion control Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 18:22:27 GMT Message-ID: References: Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Organization: UIUC Computer-based Education Research Lab Lines: 12 In article mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu (Michael E. Hedman) writes: >with the lawn mower have go to seed. Is it possible for a dandelion to become >seed when they are cut with yellow heads? More than possible. I think it's close to inevitable in my yard. So, when I'm out digging dandelions that already have flowers on them (that's how I find them -- nice of them to advertise), I gather them in a bucket and dump them behind some bushes where they never get any light. Seems to work. They may go to seed, but the seeds don't manage to turn into new dandelions. Joseph Seeley | seeley@cerl.uiuc.edu | seeley / cca / cerl From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Sat May 22 00:02:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17487 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: Strawberries, birds, and rubber snakes Message-ID: Keywords: strawberries Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 18:35:36 GMT Lines: 10 I don't know how big your patch is, but the only thing that I have found "reliable" is netting over some wooden stakes driven into the ground. The stakes keep the netting from getting too close to the fruit, which would permit pecking through the mesh. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has tried those wind strings that emit a noise that scares off birds whenever the wind blows. Was it successful? bye From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!worldbank.org!nimbus!pkumar Sat May 22 00:02:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17488 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!worldbank.org!nimbus!pkumar From: pkumar@worldbank.org (Piyush Kumar 880/40 R6070 32319) Subject: Re: Save my flowers from Chipmunks Message-ID: <1993May21.185034.12408@worldbank.org> Sender: news@worldbank.org Reply-To: pkumar@worldbank.org Organization: The World Bank References: <1993May19.161150.24543@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 18:50:34 GMT Lines: 29 In article 24543@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu, dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) writes: >pkumar@worldbank.org (Piyush Kumar 880/40 R6070 32319) asks: > >>New to this group, pardon my ignorance... >> >---deletion----------- >>In short, it seems that every time I water the baby plants, these fellows >>come up and start digging up the pots. They don't eat the plants >>themselves, just seem to be looking for something in the soil, in the >>process uproot and damage/kill the plants. >> >>How can I get rid of them? I really don't want to kill them (I am not sure ... >You don't say where you are located, but I'll bet that you haven't had any >rain in quite a while there. The poor little suckers are thirsty and think >that if they dig down in your plants they will find the underground spring >that surely must be supplying that dampness. I live in Mass. and a couple >--Jill > I live in Northern Virginia, and we are having a very wet Spring. No, it's not water these fellows are after....I know they want to kill my plants :-) Anyway, thanks to many like you who gave suggestions, I tried sprinkling some dried blood (ouch..) on the pots, and seems to work for the past two days. (the idea of blood in my pots was just too repulsive initially, but then the chipmunks killed another seven seedlings...). Piyush From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!hamblin.math.byu.edu!yvax.byu.edu!cunyvm!rmccu Sat May 22 00:02:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17489 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!hamblin.math.byu.edu!yvax.byu.edu!cunyvm!rmccu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP: PILLBUGS Message-ID: <93141.145202RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> From: Robert Chambers Date: Friday, 21 May 1993 14:52:02 EDT References: <1993May20.171526.26965@midway.uchicago.edu> Distribution: usa Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems Lines: 20 In article <1993May20.171526.26965@midway.uchicago.edu>, safi@ellis.uchicago.edu (pedro natalio safier) says: > >Hello, > >I woke up this morning to discover that an invasion of pillbugs ate my 2-days >old cucumber seedlings. Are you sure the pillbugs ate them? I have hoards of pillbugs around the house and I've never seen them eat any vegetables - I have cucumbers too. Perhaps in the middle of the night the slug 5th artillery came out and wasted you cukes? They would do that to mine but I put slug pellets out for them. Try going out in the night with a flash light and make sure you are going after the one's doing the damage. > Pedro Good luck Robert From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!ogicse!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!sweiger Sat May 22 00:02:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17490 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!ogicse!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!sweiger From: sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want a quick, living fence Message-ID: <1993May21.184659.5231@sequent.com> Date: 21 May 93 18:46:59 GMT Article-I.D.: sequent.1993May21.184659.5231 References: <21MAY93.16325896@pattie.wellesley.edu> Sender: usenet@sequent.com (usenet ) Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc. Lines: 25 Nntp-Posting-Host: eng2.sequent.com In article <21MAY93.16325896@pattie.wellesley.edu> mwolf@pattie.wellesley.edu writes: >I need to install a visual barrier, approximately 24' wide and 6' >high. I would rather plant some fast growing, fast filling in deciduous >shrubs, rather that building a fence. I specify deciduous, because I >don't need the privacy during the cold months of the year, and I assume >I can achieve thicker, more rapid coverage with a deciduous shrub than >with a coniferous one. >The 6' height is the minimum that I need. >I would like to know the names of the shrubs that you would recommend >as well as the minimum space that I must leave between them. >I live in southern Worcester County, Massachusetts, which is in inland >southern New England. I don't know if Leyland Cypress is winter hardy in your area, but if it is, it is very fast growing *and* evergreen. If you just want deciduous, the possibilities are endless. Lilac, forsythia, red-twigged dogwood, red-twigged willow (Salix), Russian Olive, privet, taller viburnum varieties, mock orange. >Thanks in advance for any sugestions! >Mur Wolf -- phone: (503)578-4329 fax: (503)578-5730 internet: sweiger@sequent.com From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!jethro.Corp.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!golfcart!barb Sat May 22 00:02:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17491 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!jethro.Corp.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!golfcart!barb From: barb@golfcart.EBay.Sun.COM (Barbara Hunt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Date: 21 May 1993 19:13:54 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Lines: 19 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tj9li$f8g@male.EBay.Sun.COM> References: <93133.201629ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> Reply-To: barb@golfcart.EBay.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: golfcart.ebay.sun.com In article 201629ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET, () writes: > Mulching bermuda will not kill it. Parking a huge truck on bermuda will > not kill bermuda. Spraying Roundup will not kill bermuda. My dog Jeff > urinating will not kill bermuda. Setting it on fire _might_ kill bermuda > but I have my doubts. Scraping the top 8" of soil off and sifting out every > piece of rhhizome slows bermuda down a little. > > Stefani who is nearly distracted by the stuff. Stefani, Will Roundup REALLY not kill bermuda? I was planning on using it on my whole lawn then starting over just to get rid of the bermuda. Also, I've heard that the rhizomes can go as deep as 20 feet. Barbara From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal Sat May 22 00:02:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17492 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal From: moskal@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Tera Moskal) Subject: Re: Strawberries, birds, and rubber snakes Message-ID: Keywords: strawberries Sender: usenet@news.acns.nwu.edu (Usenet on news.acns) Nntp-Posting-Host: unseen3.acns.nwu.edu Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA References: Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 17:31:43 GMT Lines: 6 I always use netting to protect my strawberrys. You can get it at any garden store and it's made to keep birds away. My netting is black, so you can't really see it. Just cut the right size out of the huge piece you get and use it year after year. Throw the piece right over the strawberry bed. Tera Moskal moskal@ccadmin.tech.nwu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!inmet!bu.edu!BUPULA.BU.EDU Sat May 22 00:02:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17493 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!inmet!bu.edu!BUPULA.BU.EDU From: LKEYS@BUPULA.BU.EDU (clementine) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peonies don't need ants Message-ID: <120382@bu.edu> Date: 21 May 93 19:20:06 GMT References: <1993May13.164210.15552@infonode.ingr.com> <1993May13.130811.13139@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May14.160920.2238@phx.mcd.mot.com> Sender: news@bu.edu Organization: BOSTON UNIVERSITY, Pulmonary Center Lines: 18 X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.22 In-Reply-To: hlm@phx.mcd.mot.com's message of 14 May 93 16:09:20 GMT > >> Why are ants (usually big black ones) always on my peonies? They seem > >> to start accumulating there when the flower buds swell up. I have looked > >> for aphids and I can't see any evidence of them. Are the ants after some > >> nectar? I have no noticable damage to the blooms or plant. > > > >The ants are after the wax that coats the buds. If the wax isn't removed > >by the ants, the buds can't open. It's true that the ants are after the sticky substance that covered the peony buds, but it an old wives tale about the flowers not opening. I worked at a large commercial farm for several years that had over 40 acres of peonies. A few ants would usually show up in our display garden, but there was nary an ant in the field. Everything bloomed. Commercial growers of cut peonies - the ones you'll find at your florist - are usually very careful to keep ants *off* of the plants. They're cut before the blossoms open and there's no problem with them opening later. From samba!concert!gatech!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat May 22 00:02:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17494 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Its not wild violets - its wild ginger Message-ID: <1993May21.150402.13260@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 May 93 15:04:02 -0600 References: <1993May20.162303.19143@brtph560.bnr.ca> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 31 In article <1993May20.162303.19143@brtph560.bnr.ca>, laurad@bnr.ca (Laura Dreisbach) writes: > Well, I think I was mis-informed. When I pulled up the plant > that was growing madly in my lawn, and took it to my local > nursery, they told me it was wild violets. After reading > everybody's replies, I decided to make sure this really was > wild violets (there weren't little flowers like everyone > described). I looked in several groundcover books and have > come to the conclusion that what I have is wild ginger, not > wild violets. Are you _sure_ you've got wild ginger? It's a wildflower that likes fairly decent woodland conditions, and doesn't do well in any sort of a disturbance situation. Wild ginger has flowers that are 3-petalled, brownish-red, and _very_ low on the ground, with the leaves carried over them. Both wild ginger and common violets have heart-shaped leaves, but the violets have lavender, blue, white or yellow flowers. If you're having a hard time getting an ID, send me a piece with flowers and leaves. Just flatten it in an old magazine and mail it to me at: No need to dry it. And please don't put it in a plastic bag -- it will rot on the way :-p Dr. Kay Klier Director of the Herbarium Biology Dept University of Northern Iowa Cedar Falls, IA 50614-0421 Kay From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!rtech!amdahl!JUTS!diag.amdahl.com!amp40 Sat May 22 00:02:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17495 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!rtech!amdahl!JUTS!diag.amdahl.com!amp40 From: amp40@diag.amdahl.com (Anne Powell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Message-ID: Date: 21 May 93 20:22:14 GMT References: <93133.201629ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> <1tj9li$f8g@male.EBay.Sun.COM> Sender: netnews@ccc.amdahl.com Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA Lines: 25 |> Will Roundup REALLY not kill bermuda? I was planning on using it on |> my whole lawn then starting over just to get rid of the bermuda. Also, |> I've heard that the rhizomes can go as deep as 20 feet. My experience with roundup and bermuda is that you have to follow the roundup directions very closely. The key factors are 1) the burmuda grass must be actively growing, so water it well before trying to kill it, and 2) it takes several weeks for the poison to get all the way through the plant. If you till under what you sprayed too soon, many of the rhizomes will be unaffected, and in tilling them, you'll bury them nice and deep so that pulling is impossible. The other thing that I've been told works is after you plant your new non-bermuda lawn (I assume that's your plan), there are several non-organic fertilizers that say don't use on bermuda grass. If you're not religious about organic gardening (sorry folks, no flames, please) then I've been told that these help keep down any remaining bermuda. On the other hand, if you'd like a lawn that will stand up to serious abuse by dogs and children, burmuda isn't that hard to learn to live with. It will never look great, but it won't look terrible if you keep after it. To live with bermuda grass, get a push-mower, set it low (1-2") and mow often. Have fun ;-) Anne From samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!ennews!anasaz!naomi Sat May 22 00:02:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17496 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!ennews!anasaz!naomi From: naomi@anasazi.com (Naomi Walker) Subject: Re: Why Cats? Organization: Anasazi Inc Phx Az USA Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 15:57:03 GMT Message-ID: <1993May21.155703.25352@anasazi.com> References: Sender: usenet@anasazi.com (Usenet News) Lines: 32 In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > >Can anyone explain why my cats - who sometimes go for weeks without so >much as looking at me - love to come out while I'm working in the garden >and > >- roll around in the furrows >- insist on sitting on (a) the spot I'm trying to plant in, or > (b) the spot I've just planted in >- walking slowly and methodically across the garden, taking care > to step on only the spots where I've planted seeds >- generally being abnormally affectionate - like I'm planting the > garden for THEM. > > Anyone else have this experience? > > - Gary Hypes - Absolutely. I love my cat (Ayla), but she insists on doing a balance beam act while I am trying to weed and plant in my raised beds. She follows me into the garden (which has a chain link fence all around (to keep out the dog-who-eats-all), taunts the doggie, and begs for attention. I've thought about planting her a little catnip bed. I'll add it to my list of todos. -- Naomi Walker (aka N7FSA) naomi@anasazi.com Phoenix, Arizona To get the full value of joy, you must have someone to divide it with. ---Mark Twain From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Sat May 22 11:30:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17497 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Late Lettuce Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 20:51:54 GMT Lines: 35 In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: >Everything I've read/heard tells me that I should have started lettuce >long ago, but that it's not too late. I'm starting seedlings in peat >pots (jiffy pots) and keeping them inside the house, which should be >cool enough to allow germination. When I put them outside in the sun, >though (current daytime temps mid-70s to low-80s), will they then be >able to survive? Do I need to protect them somewhat? > >The varieties I'm using are Buttercrunch and Grand Rapids. > >Thanks one and all, > >Gary Hypes I continuously plant lettuce all summer here in Pittsburgh PA, so I get a continuous supply. In the hot summer, it grows more slowly and bolts more quickly, but I can grow it all summer here with a little planning. I believe that you should plant a new short row every 2 or 3 weeks or so. My parents used to do the same thing in their garden outside Philadelphia. I think that you could in Boise, also. The biggest problem that I usually have is to plant too much at once. When it is small, it seems to be working fine, since I am only eating the small thinnings, but when it is all big, and getting ready to bolt, I can never seem to harvest it fast enough. By the way, I seed it directly into the ground. My experience is that lettuce is one of the easiest things to grow, and is particularly nice in a small garden, since it bears continuously over a long time, as opposed to those things that you plant in the spring, and don't get anything to eat until the fall. John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!inmet!bu.edu!BUPULA.BU.EDU Sat May 22 11:30:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17498 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!inmet!bu.edu!BUPULA.BU.EDU From: LKEYS@BUPULA.BU.EDU (clementine) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: PEONY DIVISION - how to Message-ID: <120398@bu.edu> Date: 21 May 93 20:13:10 GMT References: <1993May11.012104.24266@stsci.edu> Sender: news@bu.edu Organization: BOSTON UNIVERSITY, Pulmonary Center Lines: 51 X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.22 In-Reply-To: yen@stsci.edu's message of 11 May 93 01:21:04 GMT In <1993May11.012104.24266@stsci.edu> yen@stsci.edu writes: > Jim Slepicka (U42157@uicvm.uic.edu) asks: > > I've got a peony with about 30-50 shoots. It's about 5-7 years old > > and I want to split it in half. What's the best time of season > > to do this- and do I simply dig it up? I understand the roots run > > rather deep and I'm not sure if I need to get the whole root. > > Any hints? > > And my hero Kay Klier (klier@iscsvax.uni.edu) replies: > ] Yeah, leave it alone ;-) > ] Peonies are kinda odd for perennials. They prefer to remain undisturbed > ] in the same location for 70-90 years. If you divide them (and the right > ] time to do so is late August in most areas), you may have plants that > ] don't flower for the next 5-7 years. [...] I have to spoil any hero worship, but... Don't leave it alone - peonies are easy to divide. You *can* leave it in one place for years, but it doesn't mean that they love it. Often the new shoots are much smaller, blossoms are smaller and the plant is generally less robust. As they continue to grow over the years, parts of the root stock will die and rot. This is an invitation for all kinds of fungus and what-not. Divide in the fall - after the foliage has died back *carefully* dig up the roots. Be especially careful not to damage the new shoots - if they are broken off or otherwise damaged you won't get anything next year. Don't worry about preserving all of the root - you'll only want the section near the new shoots. Wash the dirt off the plant and trim back the roots. You shouldn't need any more that 6" of root past the new shoots. The more root you have the slower the plant will grow. (perhaps this is why some people have problems with dividing peonies - the just put too much root in the ground.) You'll probably notice a fair amount of dead or rotten root. Trim this off with a sharp knife - trim *all* of it off - get right down to the white root matter. Now you can divide the root. Cut it up into chunks with about 5 or so eyes or shoots on them. It's that simple. Again, don't leave too much root on the plant and don't damage the new shoots. Dust with a fungicide and plant so that the shoots are about 2" beneath the soil. You *should* get blossoms the very next year and definitely by the second. Two year ago I received a root with 6 eyes on it. I immediately divided into 4 plants - two with 2 eyes and two with only 1. All four came up last year and this year I have blossoms on two of them. Happy trails..... From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!convex!sunova!NewsWatcher!user Sat May 22 11:30:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17499 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!convex!sunova!NewsWatcher!user From: (Wes Smith) Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Message-ID: <1993May21.211839.16306@sunova.ssc.gov> Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@sunova.ssc.gov (News Admin) Nntp-Posting-Host: 143.202.102.36 Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory References: <93133.201629ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> <1tj9li$f8g@male.EBay.Sun.COM> Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 21:18:39 GMT Lines: 28 In article <1tj9li$f8g@male.EBay.Sun.COM>, barb@golfcart.EBay.Sun.COM (Barbara Hunt) wrote: > Stefani, > > Will Roundup REALLY not kill bermuda? I was planning on using it on > my whole lawn then starting over just to get rid of the bermuda. Also, > I've heard that the rhizomes can go as deep as 20 feet. > > Barbara I've never had any trouble killing bermuda with Roundup (glyphosate). Just give it at least two weeks (the more time the better) after the green top growth goes brown before you remove the dead grass. Waiting this time insures that the entire plant (rhizomes and all) have been exposed to the killing effects of Roundup. If you seperate a rhizome from the top growth prior to it's getting a lethal dose (eg by tilling or scraping), it can come back as a newly rooted plant. I've been told that you can kill bermuda organically by covering it completely with newspaper or some other thick, sunlight smothering mulch. This method would probably take months, and I have my doubts as to whether the bermuda actually dies or whether it just goes dormant. Better to use Roundup and be sure. Also, you can spot treat bermuda with an Ortho product called Grass-B-Gon without killing broadleafed plants. I use it all the time to kill the bermuda that finds its way into my shrub beds and find it to be quite effective. If all else fails, try Kryptonite. Wes (Geez, people it's just a lawn grass!) Smith From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!convex!sunova!NewsWatcher!user Sat May 22 11:30:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17500 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!convex!sunova!NewsWatcher!user From: (Wes Smith) Subject: Re: Strawberries, birds, and rubber snakes Message-ID: <1993May21.212952.16560@sunova.ssc.gov> Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@sunova.ssc.gov (News Admin) Nntp-Posting-Host: 143.202.102.36 Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory References: <1th37r$hef@walt.ee.pdx.edu> <1993May21.132620.13422@acuson.com> Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 21:29:52 GMT Lines: 17 In article <1993May21.132620.13422@acuson.com>, doran@acuson.com (David Doran) wrote: (other bird deterrent discussion deleted) > Plastic owls didn't do a thing. A company I used to work for but a plastic owl to scare away birds who were roosting in a tree over the employee doorway (and pooping on same employees). By the end of the first week, you couldn't even tell there was an owl under the bird droppings. Next they tried an inflatable snake which attempted to fly at the slightest breeze, so that didn't work either. They eventually gave up. No doubt they reasoned that after dealing with management all day, the employees wouldn't even notice what the birds were doing (just more of the same). Wes Smith From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!srgenprp!dbailey Sat May 22 11:30:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17501 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!srgenprp!dbailey From: dbailey@sr.hp.com (Dave Bailey) Subject: Re: Is my dogwood sick Sender: news@srgenprp.sr.hp.com (News Administrator) Message-ID: Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 22:29:19 GMT References: <1993May19.160809.24357@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 17 > From my reading in rec.arts.bonsai I have gathered that the worst thing you > can do for a sick plant is to fertilize it and yet this is the first thing > that most people do. I would like to know what the collective net wisdom > and the wisdom of plant cognoscenti (Kay? ohters?) are on this subject. When a tree is being stressed, its energy is being used to maintain its health. In a stressed tree, fertilizer only puts the tree in more stress. Fertilizer forces the tree to produce more growth. Fertilizer DOES NOT "feed" the tree. This new growth requires the tree to dip into its precious energy reserves. In a young vigorous healthy tree there is plenty of reserve energy and fertilizer does little. A mature tree has established a balance between its environment and its growth. Fertilizer only upsets this balance. Some people are recommending never to fertilize a tree. This is provided that competition, such as lawn and other plants, is removed from around the tree and the tree is getting the correct amount of sun, water, and elements in the correct climate. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!netcomsv!butch!LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM!L686435 Sat May 22 11:30:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17502 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!netcomsv!butch!LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM!L686435 From: L686435@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM Subject: Re: sand cherry wilts and dies Message-ID: <93141.57534.L686435@LMSC5.IS.LMSC.LOCKHEED.COM> Sender: news@butch.lmsc.lockheed.com Organization: Lockheed Missiles & Space Company, Inc. Date: Fri, 21 May 93 15:58:54 PDT Lines: 5 Sounds sort of like fire blight (sp?) to me. I think fb is a bacteria or someth ing like that, that is spread via insect. If it is, I think the only way to get rid of it is to cut out the infected areas and burn trimmings. Check with someone at a garden shop, could be something else. Good Luck From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!olivea!stratus!soave!jane Sat May 22 11:30:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17503 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!olivea!stratus!soave!jane From: jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Why Cats? Message-ID: <9502.19473@stratus.SWDC.Stratus.COM> Date: 21 May 93 22:11:11 GMT References: Sender: news@SWDC.Stratus.COM Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc., San Jose, CA Lines: 28 I think there is some secret cat turn-on-factor in freshly dug soil. I'm not really kidding. I think it's something in the smell of the ground. All those soil cities pumping out interesting smells, if anyone here has read "The Secret Garden" (whose author's name escapes me for the moment). And if you haven't let me tell you, this book is both fun and fascinating---especially fun are some of the episodes with the Penultimate Yuppie Dweeb Couple, who are out watering their baby geranium with Evian water, etc. ;-) But about cats---one of my cats is indifferent to dirt, the other thinks it's Wonderful. This is also the cat who believes the neighbor's immaculately groomed lawn was designed expressly for sensual pleasure when a cat wants to take a piss. ;-) I pretend I don't know him. ;-) On the other hand, fresh-dug garden beds are there for more solid occupations---at least he's given up on the idea that the bathtub is a hug cat box... This cat is also the one who gets easily turned on by lots of things. Lately, I've found out where the catnip has self-seeded in the lawn---the plant may only have four leaves, so far, but he'll be crashed on his back with his cheek tight against it, looking stoned. -- Jilara [jane@swdc.stratus.com] "Every now and then, a big rock falls out of the sky, and everyone has a *very bad* day." --from the PBS "Dinosaurs" special. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat May 22 11:30:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17504 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Is my dogwood sick Message-ID: <1993May21.190904.13267@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 May 93 19:09:04 -0600 References: <1993May19.160809.24357@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 15 In article <1993May19.160809.24357@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu>, dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) writes: > From my reading in rec.arts.bonsai I have gathered that the worst thing you > can do for a sick plant is to fertilize it and yet this is the first thing > that most people do. I would like to know what the collective net wisdom > and the wisdom of plant cognoscenti (Kay? ohters?) are on this subject. Rule I learned was, unless you're sure you're dealing with a nutrient deficiency, don't fertilize a sick plant. With greenhouse plants, we knock 'em out of the pot and check the roots at the first sign of trouble-- a bit more difficult with an outdoors tree! ;-) Outdoors, I usually take a slice of soil just outside the dripline of the tree and see how wet/dry/sour/buggy it is, then proceed from there. Kay From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat May 22 11:30:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17505 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Why my tree isn't ___ this year Message-ID: <1993May21.191835.13268@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 May 93 19:18:35 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 25 If your trees aren't flowering this year, here are some possibilities: 1) they went into winter too dry, and are drought-stressed. 2) they went into winter with soggy soil (or the soil hasn't dried out this spring and has gone sour), and there is some root damage. 3) an exceptionally cold winter killed buds 4) an exceptionally dry winter killed buds (esp. dry & cold & windy) 5) we went from summer to winter with a minimalistic fall -- the plants were not prepared to enter dormancy 6) we had a freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw winter, and buds broke dormancy too soon. 7) hard frost after the buds began to break dormancy in the spring 8) some species flower well only every few years (yellowwood, Cladrastis lutea, one of my favorites, does this. But the years it flowers well-- oh my!) 9) it hasn't gotten old enough to flower (e.g. dwarf apples usually won't flower before 3-5 yrs after planting) 10) it's had too much fertilizer, esp N, and is in a rapid growth mode rather than reproduction mode. OK, that's off the top of my head, without invoking pests and pathogens. C'mon fellow gardeners, what are some of the reasons I've forgotten? Kay From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat May 22 11:31:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17506 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Bouncing Bet Message-ID: <1993May21.235327.2004@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Keywords: aka "soap wort" Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <1t8b1qINNnc@early-bird.think.com> <7534@pdxgate.UUCP> Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 23:53:27 GMT Lines: 27 In article <7534@pdxgate.UUCP> klm@rigel.cs.pdx.edu (Kathy L. McRae) writes: > > Bouncing Bet (aka soap wort) contains lots of saponin...used to be >used for (yep) making soap. Cute little purple-ish (rosy purple?) flowers, >at least on mine. > I've got mine in a container on the front porch. It gets about half >and half sun and shade...seems to be just fine. I water it when it's dry. > Sorry, don't have the scientific name handy. Got mine at a farm/garden >place in the herb section. Saponaria. > The flowers are pretty neat. You're in for treat. They aren't >particularly big (~1/4 - 3/8"), but they sure are pretty! After mine bloomed--covered with rosy purple for almost 2 months-- I cut back the fuzzy seed pods, but a lot of the plant seems to be dry and brown. Will I get new growth and a second bloom, or is this an annual? I was told it was perennial and would root from the stems, but it doesn't seem to be doing that. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpcss01!capella!savage Sat May 22 11:31:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17507 of rec.gardens From: savage@capella.cup.hp.com (Deborah Savage) Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 16:57:10 GMT Subject: Rust on Roses (chemical angst) Message-ID: <143740001@capella.cup.hp.com> Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpcss01!capella!savage Newsgroups: rec.gardens Lines: 24 Hi there, Does anyone have any "organic" methods to treat rust on roses? Also, can I really eliminate the problem or merely control it. I understand it overwinters in the stems, dirt? I've been diligently removing all rusted leaves and spraying with noxious chemicals but am worried because I have an infected wall of climbers near my vegetable garden. I am very reluctant to spray fungicides near anything edible but do not want to let the rust take over a nearby bed of still healthy roses. Any ideas on how to prevent or control this blight. I'm going nuts trying to save the healthy, heal the sick without poisoning myself in the process. Any insights would be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much, Deborah Savage Hewlett-Packard Cupertino, California From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!hobbes!rogerv Sat May 22 11:31:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17508 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!hobbes!rogerv From: rogerv@sco.COM () Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Organization: The Santa Cruz Operation, Inc. Date: Sat, 22 May 1993 00:51:13 GMT Message-ID: <1993May22.005113.25564@sco.com> References: <93133.201629ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> <1tj9li$f8g@male.EBay.Sun.COM> Sender: news@sco.com (News admin) Lines: 33 >|> Will Roundup REALLY not kill bermuda? I was planning on using it on >|> my whole lawn then starting over just to get rid of the bermuda. Also, >|> I've heard that the rhizomes can go as deep as 20 feet. [...text deleted...] >On the other hand, if you'd like a lawn that will stand up to serious abuse >by dogs and children, burmuda isn't that hard to learn to live with. It will >never look great, but it won't look terrible if you keep after it. To live >with bermuda grass, get a push-mower, set it low (1-2") and mow often. Bermuda grass is hard to kill...Roundup will kill the green stuff on the surface, and a certain amount of rhizomes underground. But it will not kill it all, the bermuda grass will come back. You need to dig out all the rhizomes, or at least as much as you possibly can, and then keep after what sprouts back. This is hard in a lawn, but easier in a garden where the resprouted bermuda grass stands out. The main problem with bermuda grass isn't mowing or watering it, it is very drought tolerant. If that were the end of it, everyone would have bermuda grass lawns here, at least a lot of people, anyway. The problem with bermuda grass around here is that it is VERY invasive. It is nearly impossible to take a casual attitude with it...unless you stay on top of it, it will spread quickly everywhere you don't want it. And the rhizomes go deep enough that it is hard to stop it even with an underground barrier. And it laughs at an above-ground barrier. I used to have all kinds of fun trying to keep it out of my yard just from neighboring yards. It was an every-weekend project. Good luck. -Roger From samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!ohstpy!miavx1!miamiu!krobin Sat May 22 11:31:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17509 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!ohstpy!miavx1!miamiu!krobin Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Phone Number Message-ID: <93141.132732KROBIN@MIAMIU.BITNET> From: Kathie Robinson Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 13:27:32 EDT Organization: Miami University - Miami Computing and Information Service Lines: 10 I just received a phone call from a friend who needs the phone number for the JUNG SEED Co. She can't find her catalog and needs to get ahold of them. I figured if anybody knows, someone in this newsgroup would. She doesn't have net access (yet). Thanks for the collective wisdom that lurks here! Kathie Robinson From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat May 22 11:31:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17510 of rec.gardens Xref: samba misc.consumers.house:33736 rec.gardens:17510 Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mulching mowers summary Message-ID: <1993May20.083101.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 20 May 93 08:31:01 MDT References: Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 13 > In article > nick@christos.umd.edu (Nick Lemberos) writes: > >>$500-600 is alot to spend but the only other options were: >> 1) $300 mower that will last 3-5 years and will not be fun >> to use (ie: heavy, unmanuverable etc) >> 2) riding mower $600-1500 + a push mower for hills and places >> the riding mower cant go. I haven't followed this thread much, but just wanted to point out that mulching blades are available for regular gas lawnmowers. For rear- discharge mowers the cost is about $10, for side discharge it is $15-20 (because the conversion involves a few more parts). From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat May 22 11:31:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17511 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Why Cats? Message-ID: <1993May20.132842.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 20 May 93 13:28:42 MDT References: Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 11 In article , hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > > Can anyone explain why my cats - who sometimes go for weeks without so > much as looking at me - love to come out while I'm working in the garden > and > > - roll around in the furrows > - generally being abnormally affectionate - like I'm planting the > garden for THEM. So, you grow a lot of catnip, do you? From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat May 22 11:31:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17512 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: 2-in-1 trees, etc. Message-ID: <1993May20.134220.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 20 May 93 13:42:20 MDT References: <15MAY199313102881@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> <715@svcs1.UUCP> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 13 In article <715@svcs1.UUCP>, slm@svcs1.UUCP (Steve Martindill) writes: > > I am considering buying two separate trees, separate varieties, > and planting them in the same hole. I know that this happens in > the wild, and that two trees thus planted will eventually merge > (self-graft) into one tree. > > Has anybody seen this done? Any comments? Quite an interesting idea. The ability to self-graft must depend on the type of tree. I have seen white birch trees in groups of up to six growing in the wild, but they always remain as separate trees even when very mature. From samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!wsrcc.com!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!cmcl2!netnews!jpmgate!tcpg02!nitrogen!skeshava Sat May 22 11:31:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17513 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!wsrcc.com!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!cmcl2!netnews!jpmgate!tcpg02!nitrogen!skeshava From: skeshava@jpmorgan.com (Sanjay Keshava) Subject: Japanese maple trees Message-ID: <1993May21.170322.24999@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com> Sender: news@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com (USENET News System) Reply-To: skeshava@jpmorgan.com Organization: JP Morgan Date: Fri, 21 May 1993 17:03:22 GMT Lines: 15 Sorry if this appears twice. I've heard several references to Japanese maples lately. What is the big deal about this tree? Can someone please describe its height, features, etc. It might be what I'm looking for to fill a barren part of our lawn. Thanks. --- Sanjay skeshava@jpmorgan.com ->|<- From samba!concert!gatech!willis1.cis.uab.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!siemens!princeton!allegra!alice!jj Sat May 22 11:31:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17514 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!willis1.cis.uab.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!siemens!princeton!allegra!alice!jj From: jj@alice.att.com (J. Johnston) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sick Oak Tree Message-ID: <25535@alice.att.com> Date: 20 May 93 21:33:40 GMT Article-I.D.: alice.25535 References: <1993May20.134652.20808@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> Reply-To: jj@alice.UUCP (J. Johnston) Organization: NJ State Home for Bewildered Terminals Lines: 19 In article mglacy@lamar.ColoState.EDU writes: >In article <1993May20.134652.20808@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> csjan@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Jan B. Faires) writes: >Pale leaves *with* the veins remaining dark green is pretty specifically >diagnostic for chlorosis, an iron deficiency commonly suffered by trees >(esp. pin oaks) in midwestern soils. There are several things one can do. If the plant is acid-loving, use ferric sulphate around it. Read the bag, and don't overdo it. If the plant isn't acid loving, get some osmocote (tm) with iron and trace elements and put it in a few holes surrounding the tree. Pin oaks are pretty tough, by the way, that's pretty amazing. -- Copyright alice!jj 1993, all rights reserved, except transmission by USENET and like facilities granted. Said permission is granted only for complete copies that include this notice. Use on pay-for-read services or GOLF.L specifically disallowed. --------- Member HASA - Atheist Scum Division "Extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice" - AuH2O for President From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!fed!fed.frb.gov!m1awe00 Sat May 22 11:43:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17515 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!fed!fed.frb.gov!m1awe00 From: m1awe00@fed.frb.gov (Alan W. Estes) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Compost pile question Message-ID: <16588@arccs1.fed.FRB.GOV> Date: 21 May 93 21:59:40 GMT Sender: usenet@fed.FRB.GOV Reply-To: m1awe00@fed.frb.gov (Alan W. Estes) Organization: Federal Reserve Board, Wash, DC Lines: 6 How long does it take before the clippings can be worked into the ground? Are there any chemicals which can speed up the composting process? How should I be tending to the compost pile to ensure that maximum composting is occuring, as opposed to drying out dead grass? Thanks for any help. Alan Estes m1awe00@fed.frb.gov From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Sun May 23 11:58:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17516 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Loose Rock Retaining Walls Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Sat, 22 May 1993 17:30:44 GMT Message-ID: <24576@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 90 In response to:Janet Buyer:buyer@oasys.dt.navy.mil >I want to make this a "dry" wall, without using any mortar, except for >possibly the foundation and maybe the top layer of rocks to keep them >shifting. (etc. Parts deleted) >Does anyone have any experience with this type of retaining wall When we bought our place the back yard included a fairly steep 20 foot high hill which we realized wasn't particularly stable. Over the past three years we have cut it into a series of terraces using loose rock walls. We decided on loose rock because (a) railroad ties were more expensive and required better engineering skills than we thought we had (b) we wanted something that wasn't going to rot out before we croaked (c) loose rock rather than any concrete or mortar because of frost heaves. A well built loose rock wall can move and adjust and settle back into place instead of cracking the way concrete does. Since we have now used more than 90 long tons of rock (here we use blasted granite) I think that we have learned a few things about working with rock, and here they are.... 1) ROCKS ARE HEAVY: We originally bought 4 tons of rock thinking it would do the job. It also sounded like more rock than we could possibly imagine moving. But no. Four tons is a little bitty pile. Conclusion: you will need more rocks than you think you will so pay attention to the price per ton and find your local quarry. We bought our first load from a local yuppie designer stone place (honest) at $100.00 per ton. After we worked out the truth of the matter we went and had a meaningful conversation with the folks at our local quarry who were selling their rock at $7.00 a ton. 2) ROCKS ARE HEAVY: Never argue with a rock because the rock will win. Never trust a rock to fall where you think it is going to fall. Before you ever go near your rocks, go shopping. Get yourself industrial strength steel-toed boots and really good sturdy leather gloves. This is really important. Drop rocks into place, don't PUT them. This will save your fingers a lot of abuse. AGAIN - WEAR STEEL TOED BOOTS. ALL THE TIME. 3) ROCKS BELIEVE IN GRAVITY: Never build your retaining wall straight up. Instead always angle it in so that gravity is on your side. You are in fact relying on the slope, and gravity, to hold your wall together. That way if a rock decides to fall somewhere it will try to fall in rather than down. A 5 degree angle from vertical is enough. 7 or 8 degrees is what I build because I'm using rubble, which is very irregular. With nice flat schist you'll be perfectly safe at 5 degrees. 4) DON'T BUILD HIGHER THAN 4 FEET. A loose rock wall, built so it leans into the hill, is stable up to 4 feet. 5) THE TWO ON ONE AND ONE ON TWO RULE: Put two rocks on one bigger one and one big one on two smaller ones. 6) HEAVIEST ROCKS ON TOP: Logic might tell you to put the heaviest rocks on the bottom and the lighter rocks on top but the exact opposite is much better. Having your heaviest rocks on top, angled into the hill, is really good for holding everything in place. Remember that thing about gravity. 7) DON'T use concrete or anything else as a foundation. A loose rock wall will sit quite nicely right on the ground without further help. In your climate, you should probably dig a trench as deep as the frost line and start your rocks from there. This will minimize the amount of movement you get from frost. Also, don't use mortar for the top layer - just use your largest rocks. The mortar will crack sooner or later and look ugly. A big rock leaning slightly into the slope isn't going anywhere. 8) Rocks don't always fit precisely right. This is OK. I suspect that your rock supply is something less robust than the granite we use here, so you may be able to chip and chisel it some to make it fit. It's not really necessary to do that, except to please yourself. Feel free to use a little dirt to shim up one end of a rock, or fill a crack or crevice. These little spaces are great places to put plants. 9)MOST IMPORTANT!!! You will be building the actual wall a few inches out from the slope itself. Work up one layer at a time and PACK THE SOIL firmly behind the wall as you go. No mortar is fine, no foundation is fine, but if you don't pack the backfill, the first heavy rain will turn it to oatmeal. A loose rock wall leaning into dirt is very stable. A wall leaning into oatmeal quickly reverts to it's natural state - a rockpile. I learned this the hard way. 10) Dig the hillside in far enough to leave room to work in front of it. The hard part of loose rock work is the pick and shovel part - moving the dirt - so it's tempting to try to work with no clearance behind the wall itself. This is a bad idea, but you will try it because you will HATE the shovel work. You will then find out that this is more frustrating and difficult than you can stand, sigh, and pick up your shovel, thinking that I told you so. Don't be embarassed - we all have to try it. I recommend a "willing helper" to assist with the shovel work. You can say things like "I'll do the heavy stuff with the rocks, if you could just shovel a little dirt around...". You will move twice the weight in dirt that you move in rock, more if you are changing the hillside significantly. That is all either of us could think of. Barry points out that we are still busy building more walls and if anyone has some good tricks or ideas not covered here we would be more than grateful for them. -Barry & Moira Carlson From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 Sun May 23 11:58:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17517 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 From: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) Subject: Re: 2-in-1 trees, etc. Message-ID: Sender: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: student.tc.umn.edu Organization: University of Minnesota References: <15MAY199313102881@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> <715@svcs1.UUCP> <1993May20.134220.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Date: Sat, 22 May 1993 18:16:45 GMT Expires: Mon, 31 May 1993 05:00:00 GMT Lines: 16 >> >> I am considering buying two separate trees, separate varieties, >> and planting them in the same hole. I know that this happens in >> the wild, and that two trees thus planted will eventually merge >> (self-graft) into one tree. >> >> Has anybody seen this done? Any comments? > I'm afraid that even if you got the trees to graft naturally, the same thing would happen (domination of one cultivar) as the manually grafted ones. Do you have room for two trees, since there are some good dwarfing rootstocks avaiable in the nursery trade that will make the trees quite small. PJ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!quack!pharvey Sun May 23 11:59:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17518 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!uunet!quack!pharvey From: pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey) Subject: Re: Sphagnum Moss vs. Peat Moss Message-ID: Keywords: Sphagnum, peat, moss Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'. References: <24413@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: 22 May 1993 18:22:29 UTC Lines: 19 In article ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (Tom Dugan) writes: >Re: Peat moss, sphagnum moss, and sphagnum peat: it is pretty confusing, isn't >it?A quick look in the Webster New World Dictionary confirmed what I suspected: >In summary, peat moss is partially decayed sphagnum and is the type to use >as a soil amendment. Plain ol' sphagnum moss is the stuff used as a moisure- >retainer, esp. in hanging baskets. >Hope this helps. Isn't there a FAQ on this? Sphagnum is a particular type of moss, the good kind. It is sold as long strand for various purposes, commonly for hanging baskets. It is also sold as ground sphagnum for use as a potting or germination soil, as a soil ammendment for Ericaceous plants (Rhodies, Blueberries, etc), and as a soil ammendment for *sandy* soils. The stuff is mined from peat bogs, so it would seem wise not to waste it and consumption of UK sphagnum is probably of heavy environmental consequences. The term peat moss means any moss, not just sphagnum. From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!well!kjp Sun May 23 11:59:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17519 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!well!kjp From: kjp@well.sf.ca.us (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: HELP: PILLBUGS Message-ID: Sender: news@well.sf.ca.us Nntp-Posting-Host: well.sf.ca.us Organization: The Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link, Sausalito, CA References: <1993May20.171526.26965@midway.uchicago.edu> Distribution: usa Date: Sat, 22 May 1993 19:23:47 GMT Lines: 57 In article <1993May20.171526.26965@midway.uchicago.edu> safi@midway.uchicago.edu writes: > > >Hello, > >I woke up this morning to discover that an invasion of pillbugs ate my 2-days >old cucumber seedlings. > >I have read that pyrethrum can handle them, but I would rather try something >organic before I go chemical. > >Any suggestions will be appreciated! > > Thanks a lot in advance, > Pedro > I host the gardening conference here on the WELL, and posted this info about pillbugs just a couple of weeks ago, in response to a similar problem. I really strongly recommend the book I borrowed the info from, it's a fun read, only about $8.00, and covers lots of household and garden problems. ---------- OK, I looked 'em up. Pillbugs roll up into balls, sowbugs don't, and yes, they are crustaceans, not insects, related to lobsters and crayfish. They munch lots of organic matter, recycling a lot of decaying vegetation, but also have been known to eat young plants, especially groundcovers, and will eat the skins of young melons, cucumbers and squash, and they'll munch your strawberries too, esp. where these fruits touch the ground. They'll also start munching around the site of damage done by other insects, and take the rap for trouble they didn't start. Suggestions: keep the soil drier, prop the fruits on overturned berry baskets, cans, or other lifts to keep them out of contact with the soil. They're night feeders, and spend the days hiding in dark spots, so you can trap them in an overturned, moistened clay pot with the edge propped up. They're very attracted to corn cobs (put a chunk in the pot). Tap them into a bucket in the morning, and re-locate them (perhaps to the compost heap), or nuke 'em with soapy water or boiling water. They also go for potatoes, use a bit of it in the pot, or scoop out the potato innards from a halved potato, and turn the opening face down on the ground to make a trap. Or 1/2 an orange peel. Or rolled up dampened cardboard or newspaper. These trap-tactics may also lure slugs and snails. For a repellant, try Onion Juice Spray: 3 onions, 4 cups of water, blend as fine as possible, strain and spray. Repels aphids, mites, flea beetles, sowbugs and pillbugs. All the above info from Tiny Game Hunting by Klein & Wenner, the funniest bug book I've ever read. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn Sun May 23 11:59:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17520 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn From: wvhorn@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (William VanHorne) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Insecticides Date: 22 May 1993 21:00:53 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tm4a5$2ts@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Since this is my first year of having a garden of edibles, I had my first insect invasion today. I went out to my garden this morning, just to say "hi" as I am wont to do, when I found the garden *swarming* with leaf-hoppers happily munching my broccoli and lettuce. My reaction was to rip my shirt down to my navel, put on a headband, grab my insecticidal soap, and charge the garden while screaming "die maggots!". After wasting their little communistrears with soap, I liberally dusted with Rotenone dust. Now that I have settled down, it occurs to me that I know very little about either insecticidal soap or Rotenone. 1) Is there any difference between "insecticidal soap" and normal dishwashing liquid? Is there a difference in strength? I have used dishwashing liquid on my lawn to kill fleas, can I use it on my veggies in the same way? 2) What exactly is Rotenone? Is it persistant? How often do I need to reapply it for it to remain effective? Can it harm the plants? All help is appreciated. ---Bill VanHorne From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!crcnis1.unl.edu!news.unomaha.edu!cwis.unomaha.edu!kammerer Sun May 23 11:59:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17521 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!crcnis1.unl.edu!news.unomaha.edu!cwis.unomaha.edu!kammerer From: kammerer@cwis.unomaha.edu (Al Kammerer) Subject: Re: Japanese garden materials/Stone gardens Message-ID: <1993May22.205852.25457@news.unomaha.edu> Sender: news@news.unomaha.edu (UNO Network News Server) Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha References: <120253@bu.edu> Date: Sat, 22 May 1993 20:58:52 GMT Lines: 22 An essential factor in Japanese gardening is using what you have on hand. Taking that old relic (could be fence posts, rocks, wagon wheels, etc.) and incorporating it into the design in a naturally appearing, yet perfectly contrived aesthetic position. The use of old American pumps would be quite appropriate in a Japanese garden, since they are on hand and can be made to appear either functional, or invoking function, or function lost. I like the lines in Japanese gardening, their minimal use of plants, and paradoxically, the way they crowd plants since they prune so methodically. The concepts of feng-shui (geomancy) involve the use of dragon shapes to deflect the breath of ill-fortune. Since the Chinese believe that dragons take all sizes, even those too big for the limited human observor to witness, the shape of dragon may be used in all gardens, large or small vistas. Planting in drifts, with large bodies tapering to heads and tails, all these things are useful in designing aesthetically pleasing Japanese-inspired American gardens. Why limit yourself to the purist position if you can extend the genre? uno.cwis.kammerer From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Sun May 23 11:59:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17522 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: Berms and Soil Prep... Please advise. Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: <1993May14.155108.18258@VFL.Paramax.COM> <1993May14.193818.13176@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May17.144409.24050@VFL.Paramax.COM> Date: Sat, 22 May 1993 15:58:00 GMT Lines: 30 There was a good article on tree roots, with lots of good sketches, in Fremontia, the Journal of the California Native Plant Society, October 1992 issue. It is a reprint from Arnoldia, the journal of Harvard Univ's Arnold Arboretum, Fall 1989. Some of the illustrations are labelled "From Lyford and Wilson, 1964", but I can't find the full reference in the Fremontia reprint. They used everything from earth-moving equipment to tweezers to study the pattern of tree-root development in natural conditions in Harvard Forest in Petersham, MA. To make a good and long story very short: tree roots grow where there is the right mix of water, nutrients and air. The "drip line" concept, that most active feeder roots are located near the edge of the canopy, is really a myth. "Deep rooted" trees (pines, hickories) will grow shallowly if the soil is too compact, or if oxygen supplies below the surface are limited; "shallow rooted" trees will put down deep roots if oxygen supplies and water (say in a sewer line) are adequate. Usually, tree roots spread much farther than the branches. I don't think I'll try to make any recommendations for you based on the article...other than recommending that you try to find a copy and read it :^) The pictures and text might give you a good mental image for what those roots are going to be doing in your berms. I've decided that the best thing for me, in my modest urban yard with a few trees, is to be consistent in where and how I water and fertilize my trees. Since the soil here seems to be several inches of good soil on top of really heavy clay, I assume that most of the roots are running around in the good soil layer, and that trying to entice them deeper won't be effective. Even if I do inject water into the clay, there won't be oxygen down there! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!wupost!uunet!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Sun May 23 11:59:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17523 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!wupost!uunet!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: Mystery Plant Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: <1993May19.002516.25060@sequent.com> Distribution: na Date: Sat, 22 May 1993 16:56:06 GMT Lines: 13 In article <1993May19.002516.25060@sequent.com> hank@sequent.com (Hank Piatek) writes: >Mystery Plant Clues: > >1. Very very fragrant but only in the evening. > >2. Little white flowers (1/2"max). * > >3. Little black seeds in the stalk. /\ \/ -- > The stalk peels back to show the seeds down the center. > >4. The flowers appear at each joint (~120 degrees between joints). Could it be Evening Scented Stock? From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Sun May 23 11:59:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17524 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: Romneya coulteri seeds - germination? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: <1993May19.125526.2411@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu> Date: Sat, 22 May 1993 17:14:09 GMT Lines: 15 In article <1993May19.125526.2411@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu> mwm@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu writes: >My current question is... how to germinate Romneya coulteri ? >Simply sowing the seeds in light or dark does not help. I am told >that a heat treatment of some sort may be in order. Any suggestions >would be appreciated. Thanks. Mike. MWM@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu > In _Growing California Native Plants_, Marjorie Smith recommends propagation from young lateral roots in Nov or Dec. and says: Propagation may also be from seeds, but this is not generally recommended. Seed is slow to germinate and requires stratification or burning straw over the flat, but germination is still uneven after pretreatment. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!world!moroney Sun May 23 11:59:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17525 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!world!moroney From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) Subject: Re: Why Cats? Message-ID: Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA References: <1993May20.132842.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 02:00:49 GMT Lines: 7 I think cats are often content/curious with watching their owners when preoccupied with a task such as gardening. My cat comes and watches me in the garden, but playing in the dirt is not what attracts him, my garden is fenced off. I do amuse him at times by throwing small rocks I find into the woods - he chases them! -Mike From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!psgrain!neon!pail!servio!otisa Sun May 23 11:59:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17526 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!psgrain!neon!pail!servio!otisa From: otisa@slc.com (Allen Otis) Subject: Re: sand cherry wilts and dies Message-ID: <1993May23.031705.20366@slc.com> Organization: Servio Corp, Beaverton Oregon, US References: <1993May18.091342.10265@newstand.syr.edu> Distribution: na Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 03:17:05 GMT Lines: 28 jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) writes: > I have a cherry bush, "Hansens", I think it was, a "sand" cherry. [snip] > Here are the symptoms: > Starts out fine in spring - leafs out, flowers. Then, about now, entire > stem sections wilt suddenly, and dry out and die. No sign of insects or > anything I can see. Wilt continues to spread, till big sections of the bush > are dead. I tried a couple of cherry bushes , sold as "Western Sand Cherry" by a nursery out here. I got the same symptoms you describe. Mine put out plenty of new shoots after the wilting as only the top 2/3 or so of the flowering part of the bush were affected. However, the wilt killed off all of the blossoms and prevented any fruit from forming. I inspected one of the wilted bushes closely and found one or two small blisters on the bark, which I think might be signs of either a fungus or remains of a scale insect. Here in Oregon, the weather is cool and very wet when the sand cherry flowers. I suspect (without any proof) that some local fungus is causing the wilt, and that the sand cherry will not do well here. I suspect, from the sand cherry's small leaves and big roots (try digging one up), that they are native to places with much lower humidity and rainfall than Oregon or NY, and may require low humidity when flowering. Probably they would do well in places like Kansas. Not having any interest in finicky plants, I have dug up all but one of my cherry buses and replaced them with grapes. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!spool.mu.edu!uunet!psgrain!neon!pail!servio!otisa Sun May 23 11:59:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17527 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!spool.mu.edu!uunet!psgrain!neon!pail!servio!otisa From: otisa@slc.com (Allen Otis) Subject: Re: Radish sans bulb Message-ID: <1993May23.033333.20453@slc.com> Organization: Servio Corp, Beaverton Oregon, US References: Distribution: na Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 03:33:33 GMT Lines: 21 I believe the most important cause to consider is the lack of sun. If the garden receives less than 1/2 day of full sun, that might be a cause. Other possiblities would be not thinning them enough, or too much N fertilizer. If sunlight is marginal, then allowing more space between plants when thinning would allow each plant to get full exposure of its leaves to the available light. I haven't found depth of planting to make any difference; my radishes just produce bulbs mostly above ground if the dirt is not hilled up around the plants. bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org (Rick Harrison) writes: > mcgrew@ichthous.Eng.Sun.COM (Darin McGrew) writes: > > Yesterday my wife and I gave up on some of our radishes. Some of > > them were bolting without every having formed bulbs and some of > > them had lots of leaves but no bulbs. We had already harvested > > In the future, I suggest that you try daikon radishes. Also > make sure you are planting the seeds deep enough; I think they > should be planted 4 times their diameter deep. > From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!psgrain!neon!pail!servio!otisa Sun May 23 11:59:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17528 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!psgrain!neon!pail!servio!otisa From: otisa@slc.com (Allen Otis) Subject: Re: Dandelion control Message-ID: <1993May23.034042.20540@slc.com> Organization: Servio Corp, Beaverton Oregon, US References: Distribution: na Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 03:40:42 GMT Lines: 17 I have definitely observed dandelions go to seed after the flower was cut off the plant. The blooming cycle appears to be: 1) yellow flower opens and is open for only 1 or 2 days. 2) flower closes and stays closed for a small number of days while seeds develop. 3) flower opens to release seeds I think that if the stem is cut late enough in the seed development phase, the flower will still re-open release seeds. Allen Otis. mejh@staff.tc.umn.edu (Michael E. Hedman) writes: [snip] > This year, my wife has been pulling off the yellow headed ones > and collecting them because she said that she has seen some of the ones I cut > with the lawn mower have go to seed. Is it possible for a dandelion to become > seed when they are cut with yellow heads? > -- From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sun May 23 11:59:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17529 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Harvesting Potatos Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 05:05:05 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 9 I planted potatos for the first time this year (lots; and thanks to the many respondents to an earlier posting on how to identify the leaves when they came up). The question is, what is the normal maturation time for potatos from cuttings? The standard garden book talks about havesting after they flower, etc., but that doesn't tell me whether to expect it in late June or early November... Gary Hypes From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein.u.washington.edu!trhan Sun May 23 11:59:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17530 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein.u.washington.edu!trhan From: trhan@stein.u.washington.edu (Teri Rhan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: info beekeeping? Date: 23 May 1993 09:42:37 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 25 Message-ID: <1tngudINNgnt@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1993May12.200950.5445@almserv.uucp> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu I'm finally catching up in this newsgroup and didn't see a mailing list reply, so may I suggest a listserv mailing list of BEE-L@ALBNYVM1.BITNET I'm new to beekeeping too and have found these folks to be very helpful. Email me privately if you're not familiar with subscribing to listserv and I'll bee happy to help. Teri In article <1993May12.200950.5445@almserv.uucp> alufml@fnma.COM writes: >Does anyone know of any newsgroup or mailing list (electronic >or not) concerning beekeeping? A friend of mine is an amateur >apiarist (if that's the word), and is interested in gathering >some information on the subject. Many thanks > >--- >------------------------------------------------------------------ >Francois-Michel Lang (202) 752-6067 FAX: (202) 752-4530 >alufml@fnma.com ............. Fannie Mae; Asset/Liability Strategy >lang@linc.cis.upenn.edu ..... Dept of Comp & Info Science, U of PA From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!amdahl!hip-hop!tribiet!carvalho Sun May 23 11:59:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17531 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!amdahl!hip-hop!tribiet!carvalho From: carvalho@tribiet.uucp (Joe Carvalho) Subject: Re: Save my flowers from Chipmunks References: <1993May18.195306.24487@worldbank.org> Organization: Tribiet: A city much like Hell! Date: Sat, 22 May 1993 20:59:06 GMT X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] Message-ID: <1993May22.205906.258@tribiet.uucp> Lines: 25 Piyush Kumar 880/40 R6070 32319 (pkumar@worldbank.org) wrote: : New to this group, pardon my ignorance... We all were, once or twice. : I am a novice garderner, in fact this is the first year that I have grown : my own flowering plants (impatiens, begonia, alyssum etc.) from seeds. : It was with tender love that I watched the seedlings appear and grow : millimeter by millimeter each day. When they were old enough, I transferred : them into containers that I keep on my patio, expecting the joy of seeing : healthy and colorful flowers in a few weeks. But these chipmunks....I used to : find them cute at one time, now they are just ignorant, careless rogues. In short, : it seems that every time I water the baby plants, these fellows come up and start : digging up the pots. They don't eat the plants themselves, just seem to be looking : for something in the soil, in the process uproot and damage/kill the plants. I've found good ole mothballs do the trick of keeping most everything out of my garden. My 5 kids love to use the garden as a litter box. I sprinkle a few chunks of the crystals around and it does the trick. Does a great job of keeping the skunks out of the veggies also! ...rest of the stuff deleted...sorry. --joe Beacher Tool and Die A Hughe Jorgen Company. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein.u.washington.edu!trhan Sun May 23 12:04:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17530 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein.u.washington.edu!trhan From: trhan@stein.u.washington.edu (Teri Rhan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: info beekeeping? Date: 23 May 1993 09:42:37 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 25 Message-ID: <1tngudINNgnt@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1993May12.200950.5445@almserv.uucp> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu I'm finally catching up in this newsgroup and didn't see a mailing list reply, so may I suggest a listserv mailing list of BEE-L@ALBNYVM1.BITNET I'm new to beekeeping too and have found these folks to be very helpful. Email me privately if you're not familiar with subscribing to listserv and I'll bee happy to help. Teri In article <1993May12.200950.5445@almserv.uucp> alufml@fnma.COM writes: >Does anyone know of any newsgroup or mailing list (electronic >or not) concerning beekeeping? A friend of mine is an amateur >apiarist (if that's the word), and is interested in gathering >some information on the subject. Many thanks > >--- >------------------------------------------------------------------ >Francois-Michel Lang (202) 752-6067 FAX: (202) 752-4530 >alufml@fnma.com ............. Fannie Mae; Asset/Liability Strategy >lang@linc.cis.upenn.edu ..... Dept of Comp & Info Science, U of PA From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!vax2.concordia.ca!kovats Sun May 23 23:36:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17532 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!vax2.concordia.ca!kovats From: kovats@vax2.concordia.ca (Tom Kovats) Subject: Rhubarb Message-ID: <23MAY199316553463@vax2.concordia.ca> News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Keywords: rhubarb Sender: usenet@newsflash.concordia.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: vax2.concordia.ca Organization: Concordia University Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 21:55:00 GMT Lines: 13 We have these 3 rhubarb plants, transplanted inexpertly but thriving explosively. The middle one, both this year & last, has produced a humongous green "bloom" (which eventually will make hundreds of seeds). The 2 on the sides are big but don't bloom. Are there female and male rhubarb plants? Or are there just CEOs and subordinates? We are at 45.5 degrees north latitude. It is only May. Should we leave this bloom alone all summer, or is it better (for the plant) for us to detach it at some point? Tom Kovats (Montreal, Quebec) kovats@vax2.concordia.ca From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!ohstpy!miavx1!miamiu!kmichel Sun May 23 23:36:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17533 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!ohstpy!miavx1!miamiu!kmichel Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: lemon thyme? Message-ID: <93143.160028KMICHEL@MIAMIU.BITNET> From: Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 16:00:28 EDT Organization: Miami University - Miami Computing and Information Service Lines: 5 I have an herb that I bought because I loved the lemony smell when I crushed the leaves! I was told it was thyme--is this a special variety of thyme? Is it normally used in food/drinks? Any info appreciatied. -Kathleen From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Sun May 23 23:36:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17534 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: 2-in-1 trees, etc. Message-ID: From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 04:27:54 GMT References: <1993May20.134220.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 7 I tried it once; I believe I did it with apples. One of the trees died and then I had the dilemna of what to do, leave it in the ground and increase the possibility of borers attacking the healthy tree or pull it and possibly damage the other. I still like the idea, but I'm a little shy about it. It is a recommended strategy for just the reasons you mention. Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Sun May 23 23:36:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17535 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Late Lettuce Message-ID: From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 04:36:54 GMT References: Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 6 It is only the heading varieties of lettuce that you need to worry about. They'll bolt with the hot weather. That still leaves you leaf, butterhead, and romaine, among others. Boise is in Sunset zone 3; their vegetable chart shows you can plant lettuce from March to August. You should be able to direct seed it in the garden nless you want to start in containers to maximize space in the garden. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Sun May 23 23:36:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17536 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!nic.csu.net!eis.CalState.EDU!bmoon Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pruning veggies and herbs? Message-ID: From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 05:10:49 GMT References: Organization: Calif State Univ/Electronic Information Services Lines: 27 Bob, I am not an expert on pruning either, but I do have some ideas for you. Basil and lettuce can be cut near the soil line and the plant will leaf back. This works better than pruning a leaf at a time. Determinate tomatoes will grow to certain height and then stop. Most of the time this means that most of the tomatoes will ripen about the same time. However, some new varieties of semi-determinates have been develped that give a season long harvest on a short plant. I haven't seen any of these at local nurseries, just in seed catalogs. They have the word"Husky.." in their names. Some of the severe pruning that other parts of country do may cause problems in the Sacramento Valley because of the high, dry summers. You can put them in a cage and control sprawl. If you prune and the plant is stressed, you may find yourself with sunburned and blackened, blossom end rot tomatoes. Peppers are well-behaved; I wouldn't worry about pruning them. This is my first year growing cilantro/coriander; the plants I have seen it pots don't really look like space hogs. Something I'm trying this year is interplanting. Lettuce grows fairly quickly, so you plant it near a slow-grower like squash or melon. By the time the squash is big, the lettuce is already harvested. BEans/peas can grow alongside corn. I realize the examples I've given are for space hogs, but you may be able to apply them somewhere. Wide row planting really increases yields in small spaces. Carrots, lettuce, peas, beans, etc. can be planted in a wide row with many more plants to the inch than the single row often forund on the seed packet. The plants form a living mulch, reducing water needs and weeds. Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!cbnewsm!daw Sun May 23 23:36:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17537 of rec.gardens Xref: samba misc.consumers:44355 misc.consumers.house:33752 rec.woodworking:19789 rec.gardens:17537 Newsgroups: misc.consumers,misc.consumers.house,rec.woodworking,rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!cbnewsm!daw From: daw@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (douglas.a.williams) Subject: Exterior redwood finish: what's "danish oil"? Organization: AT&T Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 00:54:44 GMT Message-ID: Followup-To: misc.consumers.house Lines: 43 I built a deck seven years ago using redwood (mostly construction heart, but clear vertical grain for the railings). The wood itself has held up very well, but I'd like to do something (again!) about the finish. Several years ago I tried a two-step system by the Flood company that was supposed to clean the wood (step one), then protect the wood (step two). Step two was also supposed to bring back the natural color of the wood, too. Well, it mostly did what it was supposed to do, but it didn't last long. By the end of the summer it's effect had pretty well faded away. Two years ago I had another go at it. This time I used another two step process. The cleaner step (and power washer highly recommended in the instructions) seemed to be pretty harsh on the wood, especially on the primo railing wood where it really raised the grain. The second step was a stain (oil- based) that in combination with the appearance of the redwood really looked close to new redwood. The cleaner and stain ("superdeck") were by Duckback(?). Same results as before: basically good through the summer. Instead of going through this process over and over again, I'd like to do something different. Especially of concern to me are the effects of the cleaners, both on the wood and nearby landscaping. I'd like to keep a natural color on the deck (i.e., no colored stains) and I realize that the look of new redwood is an impossibility. The only thing I've ever seen (in a book on decks) that seems to fit the bill was an application of something called "danish oil." It gave the redwood a deep, rich appearance. The article did mention that it needed to be applied often as it wasn't very weather resistant. (Its effect on the wood reminded me of how Armorall looks on vinyl/rubber surfaces!) The book never said what danish oil was, however. At the time I asked at a couple of places and only got puzzled looks from the clerks. So, what's danish oil? Any other suggestions on exterior redwood care? Thanks! 1 1 1 Doug Williams 1 2 1 AT&T Bell Labs 1 3 3 1 Reading, PA 1 4 6 4 1 hiwayman@alux3.att.com 1 5 10 10 5 1 1 6 15 20 15 6 1 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sun May 23 23:36:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17538 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Earwigs and Sowbugs (was Re: HELP: PILLBUGS) Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <1993May20.171526.26965@midway.uchicago.edu> <93141.145202RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> Distribution: usa Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 23:41:45 GMT Lines: 59 In article <93141.145202RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> Robert Chambers writes: >In article <1993May20.171526.26965@midway.uchicago.edu>, safi@ellis.uchicago.edu >(pedro natalio safier) says: >> >>Hello, >> >>I woke up this morning to discover that an invasion of pillbugs ate my 2-days >>old cucumber seedlings. > >Are you sure the pillbugs ate them? I have hoards of pillbugs around >the house and I've never seen them eat any vegetables - I have cucumbers >too. Perhaps in the middle of the night the slug 5th artillery came out >and wasted you cukes? They would do that to mine but I put slug pellets >out for them. Try going out in the night with a flash light and make >sure you are going after the one's doing the damage. Yes, pillbugs eat seedlings, but only very new ones. (Earwigs eat the bigger seedlings, someone asked about earwigs too, more on this later in this posting.) Checking with a flashlight is a good idea, in fact going out at night is about the only organic control I've found. The books all say that these two pests aren't very harmful but anyone who's seen their new plants eaten up knows differently. The only thing you can do about pillbugs is to cover your newly arisen seedlings at night (I've used everything from yogurt cups to plastic refrigerator trays) until the plant is too big for the pillbugs to eat, which isn't very big. AFter this point, the earwigs get them. Last year I mounted an all-out offensive against these critters, I used to see them in my sleep an imagined a sequel to "Leiningen vs. the ants" with me and those horrible creatures as the new primary charaacters. The books say that diatomaceous earth srayed on the plants or sprinkled around them works, but I've found this not to be the case. At least, if they do die afterward, they eat your plants first. I managed to save my garden last year, and am fighting the same fight this year by cruising the garden at night, stomping them as I go, and picking them off and killing them gleefully in the moonlight. The only other trick of any use, is to put out traps of used or unused cooking oil in empty cat food cans, the vile beasts are attracted, dive in for a sip and die wriggling horribly because they can't crawl out. Why, yes vengeance is sweet if you've lost a lot of baby plants! Be careful how you place the traps, because if you put them too near something that you're trying to save, it can lead the bugs to it! (Note: my husband, Scott, can no longer stomach the idea of eating sardines after I discovered this method, and reminds me about it every time I think about buying tinned fish for myself!) It also helps to keep stuff out of your garden that earwigs can hide under, like plastic mulch bags and stuff. I also start all my seedlings in cups or trays on my patio and tranplant them when they're bigger, but I have a very small garden and this may not be practical for everyone. Good luck to all. --Kim Fisher (answering directly through Scott's account) From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!mdisea!rudoff Sun May 23 23:36:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17539 of rec.gardens Xref: samba rec.gardens:17539 misc.consumers:44356 misc.consumers.house:33753 Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers,misc.consumers.house Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!mdisea!rudoff From: rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com (Doug Rudoff) Subject: Recommendations for Electric Lawnmowers Message-ID: <1993May24.005818.18031@mdd.comm.mot.com> Sender: news@mdd.comm.mot.com Organization: Motorola, Mobile Data Division - Seattle, WA Distribution: na Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 00:58:18 GMT Lines: 28 Can anyone give me any recommedations (or non-recommendations) for electric lawn mowers? These are the models I've seen Sears has a Craftsman 19 inch mulcher/standard including rear bag for $200. It does seem heavier than the others. Sears also has two Black and Deckers models one mulching, one non-mulching for about $200 and $160, respectively, side bag extra $$. They are very light and seem like a newer design. A local home warehouse store has a Wheeler for $160 and $30 for a side bag. The Craftsman would be the choice except for its weight (it needs to go up stairs). Does anyone have any experience with these mowers or any other electric ones? Thanks -- ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Doug Rudoff Motorola, Seattle INTERNET:rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com USENET:uunet!mdisea!rudoff \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!cbnewsm!daw Sun May 23 23:36:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17540 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!bgsuvax!att!cbnewsm!daw From: daw@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (douglas.a.williams) Subject: Re: BURPEE Order Delays? Organization: AT&T Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 01:16:38 GMT Message-ID: References: <1tgb58$b94@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Lines: 28 In article <1tgb58$b94@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> nstassen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Nicki A Stassen Lantz) writes: >In article daw@cbnewsm.cb.att.com (douglas.a.wil >liams) writes: >> >>Has anyone else out there ordered plants from Burpee? Have >>you received them? Any comments in general? It seems to me >>that Burpee's customer service has taken a real nose-dive >>this year. >> >I've been pretty happy with burpee, but you might want to call them and see >what the delay is on your order (note, customer service is only open >during the week from 9-5 or something like that). Well, after several days of busy signals and/or repeatedly navigating my way through their phone system from hell, they said I'd get them this past Friday. This matches the catalog story about how they ship 'em for late-week arrival to allow weekend planting! Of course, NOTHING came. The banker's- hours customer service operation, non-response to my two faxes and phone system from hell all still has me wondering about their recent performance. 1 1 1 Doug Williams 1 2 1 AT&T Bell Labs 1 3 3 1 Reading, PA 1 4 6 4 1 hiwayman@alux3.att.com 1 5 10 10 5 1 1 6 15 20 15 6 1 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Mon May 24 12:44:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17541 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Rhubarb Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 04:48:26 GMT Message-ID: <24616@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 30 In response to Tom Kovats:kovats@vax2.concordia.ca >We have these 3 rhubarb plants, transplanted inexpertly but thriving explosively. The middle one, both this year & last, has produced a humongous green "bloom" (which eventually will make hundreds of seeds). The 2 on the sides are big but don't bloom. Are there female and male rhubarb plants? Or are there just CEOs and subordinates? >We are at 45.5 degrees north latitude. It is only May. Should we leave this bloom alone all summer, or is it better (for the plant) for us to detach it at some point? According to all the books that I have seen, if you want eating rhubarb you are supposed to clip off the seed stalk at the base of the plant as soon as it appears. Theoretically the only reason to let it flower is if you want rhubarb seed which nobody much does because it is slow to grow and the varieties cross-pollinate so you can't count on plants from seed being as good as the parent plant. That is why everyone goes with root divisions. I know just what you mean about the "homongous" bloom. I couldn't resist letting one of my plants flower this year just because I was interested to see how high that seed stalk was going to grow. Would you believe 5 feet high and rising? A very impressive sight. I finally cut it because it was threatening to spread seed everywhere and be a nuisance. As to why some plants bloom and others don't -or won't for several years and then do- I think this just has to do with all those factors that make any perennial (like an iris for example) decide to bloom or not...in other words, the age of the plant, amount of sunlight, how happy the plant is with soil conditions and so on. -Moira Carlson From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Mon May 24 12:44:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17542 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Lemon Thyme Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 04:50:38 GMT Message-ID: <24617@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 26 In response to Kathleen: KMICHEL@MIAMIU.BITNET >I have an herb that I bought because I loved the lemony smell when >I crushed the leaves! I was told it was thyme--is this a special >variety of thyme? Is it normally used in food/drinks? Any info >appreciatied. If your plant is a thyme, the most likely candidate is Lemon Thyme (Thymus citriodorus). Another possibility is Doone Valley Lemon Thyme (Thymus pulegoides). (Regular old garden thyme is Thymus vulgaris). According to one of my herb books: "Herbs, Their Cultivation and Usage", John & Rosemary Hemphill, Bladford Press, London, lemon time is used for culinary purposes. They say that "Lemon thyme, with its milder flavour, is excellent with fish, chicken or turkey mornays, steamed carrots, omelettes and in all kinds of food with a delicate or bland flavour. It is sometimes used as an extra ingredient in a "fines herbes" blend, with chervil, chives, parsley and tarragon." Golly. I even have a little patch of variaged lemon thyme outside that I haven't tried out yet. If you like lemony smelling herbs, you might also want to check out Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) and Lemon Verbena (Aloysia triphylla). Enjoy! -Moira Carlson From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!engage.sps.mot.com!fmbutt Mon May 24 12:44:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17543 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!engage.sps.mot.com!fmbutt From: fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq M. Butt) Subject: Brown Patches in St. Augustine grass Message-ID: Summary: Mystery grass death Sender: news@oakhill.sps.mot.com Nntp-Posting-Host: engage Organization: Motorola RISC Software, Austin, TX Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 06:13:44 GMT Lines: 37 Grass neophyte alert :-): I have St. Augustine grass in my backyard and have begun to notice some pretty interesting weirdnesses: the grass is dying in some spots about three feet sq. In some areas it sorta starts looking like beige-colored straw (or like it's been nuked with RoundUp) but the grass around the brown patch is dark green and seems to be bursting with health. When I dig in the area with a pick I find deep clay under the brown patches but the grass seems totally dead. Whassup ? What is this mystery disease and is there a good cure short or roto-tilling and over-seeding with bermuda :-) ? Some folks have mentioned fungus problems. Could this be the problem here ? If so what do I do ? Another question: now in some other patches I have begun to see some balding spots (i.e. I can see the clay and some shriveled up runners criss-crossing the bald spot). When I take my pick to these areas, I hit limestone two inches below the surface. My guess is that this is the cause of death, but I may be wrong. Am I ? What the heck can be reasonably, economically done short of buying a dumptruck of topsoil. Anyway, I though St. Augustine would just send runners over "trouble spots". I live in blazing hot Austin, TX and was nurturing some hope that I'd have grass that was, at least, green and non-patchy. Is this a futile hope ? Thanks for any tips fmb -- Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightest relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17544 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 11:39 PDT Subject: Re: Why Cats? Message-ID: <1453300207@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:C7By5q.2A6@boi.hp.com:-532706538:cdp:1453300207:000:529 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 11:39:00 1993 Lines: 12 They just do it to annoy. Mine also insist on walking on the newspaper when I read at the kitchen table and rolling on it while demanding attention. They also walk and act kittenish between me and any book I'm reading. I have two who insist on sitting on my lap while I'm banging away on the Mac. Try typing over a cat. It's terrifically efficient, and the hair gets into the drive slot and all over the mouse pad. It's just the nature of cats to want to play with you when you're not particularly in the mood for them. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17545 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 11:23 PDT Subject: Re: Radish sans bulb Message-ID: <1453300205@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:lvg3cmINN5lm@exodus.eng.sun.com:1137927549:cdp:1453300205:000:296 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 11:23:00 1993 Lines: 10 Radishes will not bulb up if the soil is too warm. If you need to grow them in containers, try doing it under lights in a cool cellar. They absolutely do not need to be planted 4xtheir diameter. Next time, try mulching with 3-6 inches of salt hay or shredded newspaper to keep the soil cool. From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17546 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 11:28 PDT Subject: Re: Rhubarb Message-ID: <1453300206@igc.apc.org> References: <1993May19.124800.5582@walter.cra> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1993May19.124800.5582@walter.cra:709214875:cdp:1453300206:000:369 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 11:28:00 1993 Lines: 9 To harvest rhubarb, pull the stalks, remove the larger part of the leaf leaving the base which somehow allows the stalk to keep longer post harvest. I use the leaves to mulch the rhubarb. I also leave a fair number of stalks on the plant to feed the roots. However, I do harvest in both fall and spring and use most of the fall harvest to make rhubarb chutney. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17547 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 11:45 PDT Subject: Re: Pruning veggies and herbs? Message-ID: <1453300208@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:rlk.737919287@pelton:-1290385137:cdp:1453300208:000:708 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 11:45:00 1993 Lines: 14 You'll get more fruit if you don't prune the tomatoes. If space is a problem, grow them up into the air. You can buy or make tomato cages to keep them in their place. You can tie them to tall posts. I have some 'yellow pear' that are seriously indeterminate and will, if permitted, take over the universe. I've trained them over a an arbor in past years, but now I grow them next to my pea trellis and tie them to it once the peas are picked. Next year try to find determinate cultivars. You can tie them to relatively short stakes. The indeterminate ones just love to vine all over the world and must be contained and trained. Pruning will give you fewer, larger fruit, but it won't save any space. Libby From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17548 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 11:53 PDT Subject: Re: Late Lettuce Message-ID: <1453300209@igc.apc.org> References: <1993May20.134547.1@rhea.arc.ab.c> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1993May20.134547.1@rhea.arc.ab.c:1105187040:cdp:1453300209:000:437 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 11:53:00 1993 Lines: 9 If you want to keep your relatively late lettuce from turning bitter, keep it well watered and shade it with other plants or row cover. For lettuce varieties that can be grown from earliest spring thru summer and fall, get the Cook's Garden catalog: POB 65 Londonderry, VT 05148 Shepherd Ogden, one of the owners has also published and excellent book on organic veggie gardening. Look for it. I can't recall the title just now. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17549 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 11:55 PDT Subject: Re: Albuquerque Gardens? Message-ID: <1453300210@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:C7Dp8M.247@cbfsb.cb.att.com:1321745470:cdp:1453300210:000:256 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 11:55:00 1993 Lines: 8 While you're there call the UNM Extension office. They should know about good gardens in the area and also whether there are garden clubs and knowledgeable plant societies you can contact. I THINK they also have a community gardening program there. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17550 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 11:18 PDT Subject: Re: Japanese maple trees Message-ID: <1453300204@igc.apc.org> References: <1993May21.170322.24999@tcpg02.ny> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1993May21.170322.24999@tcpg02.ny:-584089743:cdp:1453300204:000:565 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 11:18:00 1993 Lines: 15 I guess the big deal is that they are very slow growing, have lovely leaves that are very finely cut in most cultivars and that some cultivars have red leaves that retain their red color all season. Planting maples in a lawn is a risk even small ones that let lots of light thru like the Japanese sorts. They are shallow rooted and compete with the grass for nutrients and water. On the other hand, I am ideologically opposed to grassy lawns because they use so much energy and water, so I 'd plant the maple. Forest Farm has many many cultivars for sale. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17551 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 11:00 PDT Subject: Re: Compost pile question Message-ID: <1453300200@igc.apc.org> References: <16588@arccs1.fed.frb.gov> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:arccs1.fed.frb.gov:16588:cdp:1453300200:000:518 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 11:00:00 1993 Lines: 14 It all depends on the weather and whether you turn the pile a lot. There are compost enhancers on the market, but if you layer in an inch of soil for every foot or so of clippings, you won't need them. In order to keep the pile from turning to hay instead of compost keep it moist. If it doesn't rain for a week, water the pile. Don't soak it just keep it moist. If it gets too wet, it may go anerobic and stink quite a lot. If you really want the pile to rot quickly, turn it every ten days or so. Good luck Libby From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17552 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 11:03 PDT Subject: Re: 2-in-1 trees, etc. Message-ID: <1453300201@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:C7FxHH.AqE@news.cis.umn.edu:-1720546612:cdp:1453300201:000:196 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 11:03:00 1993 Lines: 7 The Ortho book "All About Fruit" suggests planting two varieties in one hole when space is at a premium. If you're worried about dominance, just be careful and faithful about your pruning. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17553 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 11:07 PDT Subject: Re: Mask Plant Message-ID: <1453300202@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:C7Ft2G.3tJ@sybase.com:-863630300:cdp:1453300202:000:279 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 11:07:00 1993 Lines: 8 If you aren't satisfied with the answers thus far, look it up in "Exotica". This huge reference on tropical/foliage plants ought to be in any good hort. library and might be found in a garden center, especially one that sells books or one that specializes in houseplants. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17554 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 11:13 PDT Subject: Re: Harvesting Potatos Message-ID: <1453300203@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:C7GrGH.9q2@boi.hp.com:-1803699522:cdp:1453300203:000:737 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 11:13:00 1993 Lines: 15 It really depends on when you planted the tubers and whether the kind you planted is early, mid-season or late. You'll get little potatoes if you dig the plants as soon as they bloom...mine are starting at this very moment, but 'Anoka', the kind I planted last month takes about 65 days. If you wait until the plants turn yellow and start falling over, you'll get larger potatoes. That's up to you obviously. Here in zone 7, we can plant potatoes really early...as soon as the soil can be worked (or after the blizzard whichever) and again from mid-June to mid-July for a fall crop. If you planted yours in March or April, they could be ready in June, but if they're a late variety, they may not be ready til July or August. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17555 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 10:51 PDT Subject: Re: info beekeeping? Message-ID: <1453300198@igc.apc.org> References: <1tngudINNgnt@news.u.washington.e> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1tngudINNgnt@news.u.washington.e:2095706381:cdp:1453300198:000:71 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 10:51:00 1993 Lines: 5 Check out en.agriculture's apis section for bee stuff from Fla. Libby From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 24 12:44:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17556 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 23 May 93 10:55 PDT Subject: Herbs by e-mail Message-ID: <1453300199@igc.apc.org> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #N:cdp:1453300199:000:346 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 23 10:55:00 1993 Lines: 13 People who are into growing herbs can now access Richters, the excellent Canadian purveyor of fairly unusual plants and seeds by e-mail. Their internet address is: richter@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca "Customers can place orders, inquire about orders or ask questions about any of Richters products." I guess you can ask for their catalog too. Libby From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!uunet!pipex!uknet!doc.ic.ac.uk!smac-eaa.doc.ic.ac.uk!user Mon May 24 12:44:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17557 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!uunet!pipex!uknet!doc.ic.ac.uk!smac-eaa.doc.ic.ac.uk!user From: eaa@doc.ic.ac.uk (Liz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Watering question Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 11:57:10 GMT Organization: doc, ic Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: smac-eaa.doc.ic.ac.uk Is there any nutritional benefit to be gained by plants from watering them with the (cooled) water vegetables have been cooked in? Liz (eaa@doc.ic.ac.uk) From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!think.com!mac-jimmy-43.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co Mon May 24 12:44:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17558 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!think.com!mac-jimmy-43.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co From: George T. Pearson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help, Oregano bug Date: 24 May 1993 11:26:35 GMT Organization: DFCI Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tqbdbINN15a@early-bird.think.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac-jimmy-43.dfci.harvard.edu X-UserAgent: X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Mon, 24 May 93 07:27:05 GMT I ask your patience with a novice description of a problem. I found a tiny little red bug and back spots on the upper leaves in a couple of places on my oregano plant. Since these appeared to be isolated, I pinched off those sections and disposed of them. Does anyone know what this might be? Is it possibly something which could infest my other plants. Should I destroy the whole plant? I appreciate all suggestions. Thanks! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!estd.nrl.navy.mil!malouf Mon May 24 12:45:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17559 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!estd.nrl.navy.mil!malouf From: malouf@estd.nrl.navy.mil (MALOUF, PERRY) Subject: Question about Fish Emulsion Message-ID: <24MAY199308052028@estd.nrl.navy.mil> News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: ESTD - Naval Research Laboratory, Washington DC Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 13:05:00 GMT Lines: 13 I have been told that diluted fish emulsion will fertilize plants best when sprinkled on the FOLIAGE. Is this true? Previously I have used diluted fish emulsion by pouring it directly into the soil around my plants' roots. The subject came up when I asked a friend about my tomato plants. They were started indoors and transplanted to the garden when they were aruond 8" tall. The soil in my garden has a high clay content. These tomato plants have grown somewhat, but appear to be droopy. They get plenty of water and direct sunshine. My friend said that the soil is too nutrient-poor. I mentioned that I pour diluted fish emulsion around the plant roots, and she said that fish emulsion is best used as a foliant fertilizer. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!harris Mon May 24 12:45:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17560 of rec.gardens Xref: samba misc.consumers.house:33766 rec.gardens:17560 Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!harris From: harris@athena.mit.edu (Jonathan G Harris) Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens Subject: Milky spore and beetle grubs. Date: 24 May 1993 12:25:56 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 14 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1tqeskINN7oa@senator-bedfellow.MIT.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: m66-558-1.mit.edu Keywords: grubs lawn milky spore ------------------------ I tried to buy milky spore from a local nursery. They claim that production has been halted for about three years due to a manufacturing problem and that there is some question about its effectiveness in New England. Does anyone know anything about this? Thank you. If it is not available or effective, what are alternatives to sterilizing my soil with a strong pesticide? I dont like the nematode product because it seems to require a lot of watering. -- Jonathan G. Harris Department of Chemical Engineering, MIT Rm 66-450 25 Ames Street, Cambridge, MA 02139 harris@athena.mit.edu (617)253-5273 Fax 253-9695 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme Mon May 24 12:45:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17561 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme From: cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: holes in veggie garden Date: 24 May 1993 08:35 EST Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 25 Distribution: world Message-ID: <24MAY199308351433@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: lims01.lerc.nasa.gov News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 For the last month I have noticed holes appearing during the noght in my veggie garden (square-foot style). The holes are about 1" in diameter and 3 -4" deep, though the one I saw this morning was deep enough to make me think it was a burrow. The holes are never at the edge of the garden (which has boards and 18" high wire fencing to discourage rabbits and dogs). The holes have been appearing in the pea and carrot squares, making it difficult to tell if plants are disappearing or not. My first thought was that the holes were made by birds looking for worms, but now I'm not so sure. I live near a wooded area, so any Ohio woodland critter could be the potential culprit. Its my first spring in this house, so I have no idea what critter to watch for. Does anybody have an idea what these could be? Moles, voles, robins, snakes ? Even if you can only tell me what other signs to look for, I'd appreciate it. Marty --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Marty Zimmerman | There are three types of lies; cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov | lies, damn lies, and statistics | - Mark Twain --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!almserv!mardigras!s5uagm Mon May 24 17:19:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17562 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!almserv!mardigras!s5uagm From: s5uagm@fnma.COM (Andrew Miller) Subject: Re: Rhubarb Message-ID: <1993May24.143918.7860@almserv.uucp> Sender: usenet@almserv.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: mardigras Reply-To: s5uagm@fnma.COM Organization: Fannie Mae References: <24616@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 14:39:18 GMT Lines: 28 In article 24616@mindlink.bc.ca, Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >In response to Tom Kovats:kovats@vax2.concordia.ca > >>... Should we leave >this bloom alone all summer, or is it better (for the plant) for us to detach >it at some point? > >According to all the books that I have seen, if you want eating rhubarb you >are supposed to clip off the seed stalk at the base of the plant as soon as >it appears. .... Emphasize "at the base of the plant". If you just cut off the flower, the stalk keeps growing up... up... up.... > ..... I couldn't resist >letting one of my plants flower this year just because I was interested to >see how high that seed stalk was going to grow. Would you believe 5 feet >high and rising? A very impressive sight. I finally cut it because it was >threatening to spread seed everywhere and be a nuisance. > I guess you could harvest and use this long stalk, but I'm not sure what kind of flavor it would have. - Andrew - BTW: Can someone re-post/send the recipe for "aphid spray" that was made from rhubarb leaves? Thanks. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!male.EBay.Sun.COM!jethro.Corp.Sun.COM!scarabz!jmm Mon May 24 17:19:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17563 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sun-barr!male.EBay.Sun.COM!jethro.Corp.Sun.COM!scarabz!jmm From: jmm@scarabz.Corp.Sun.COM (John Morrison) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Japanese maple trees Date: 23 May 1993 04:38:28 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems Lines: 9 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tmv44$6ld@jethro.Corp.Sun.COM> Reply-To: jmm@scarabz.Corp.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: scarabz.corp.sun.com Sanjay, Japanese Maples are somewhat delicate looking trees. They can have either reddish or green leaves. The leaves can either be broad OR feathery. They are not cheap (nice ones that is) and in my experience, the leaves don't stand up overly well against direct hot sun. jmm@scarabz From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam Mon May 24 17:19:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17564 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam From: stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Cold damage (?) to Tomatoes Date: 24 May 1993 15:13:53 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 19 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: m66-452-1.mit.edu We had a cold wet spell (rain & day temperatures below 55 F) several days after I transplanted my tomatoes outside. The lower leaves on many of the plants now have brown-yellow spots on them. Are those just signs of cold damage, or are they something more sinister, like disease? The plants had already grown larger than I would have liked before I transplanted them. This is my first year growing my own tomato seedlings, and I think I started them too early. Of course this has been a really cold winter, too. If my tomatoes were just a little bit "frost-bitten", I presume that they will recover but just be a bit stunted. C'est la vie. Shih Tung Chem E Best l'il Tech School in cold Cambridge From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam Mon May 24 17:19:40 EDT 1993 Article: 17565 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam From: stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Fall bulbs from Pinetree Seeds Date: 24 May 1993 15:18:48 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 15 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: m66-452-1.mit.edu What experiences have people had with Fall bulbs from Pinetree Garden Seeds? Their prices are much lower than Burpee's and other bigger companies, but I'm wondering if there's a catch. As an aside, the shallots I received from them were moldy on receipt, but I think that's because they were shipped in a plastic bubble-wrap envelope and then sat in a MIT receiving room over a long weekend. How do they ship their Fall bulbs? Shih Tung Chem E Best l'il Tech School on the Charles From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!risc.sps.mot.com!not-for-mail Mon May 24 17:19:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17566 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!risc.sps.mot.com!not-for-mail From: wcl@risc.sps.mot.com (Wayne Long) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Should I thin the melons? Date: 24 May 1993 09:35:07 -0500 Organization: Motorola (Austin,TX) Lines: 39 Message-ID: <1tqmerINN25j@ome.sps.mot.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ome.sps.mot.com I'm a first-time melon grower so please excuse the following ignorance and help me do the best thing: I got a bit over-zealous and planted my melons too close together (thought it was necessary due to our crappy soil). I planted honeydew, cantelope, & watermelon in 20' rows, rows spaced 1.5' apart and melons spaced 4" apart. Well, they ALL survived and are doing wonderfully, so well in fact, that the plot is just one mass of melon leaves and vines, all climbing over each other. If I just let them alone, will this mass of vines produce good fruit, or will they strangle each other? Do the melons themselves have to be exposed to the sunlight or is it ok to let them remain buried under the mass of leaves? What does your experience show? If I had to speculate (which I don't want to), they'll all survive and fruit, but the fruit *may* not be as large or sweet as possible due to competition for sunlight by melon leaves. I suspect the melons are fine being shielded under the mass of leaves. I'd like to hear from those who've got some experience in this area. Wayne -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- Wayne Long - OE215 Internet: wcl@risc.sps.mot.com 6501 William Cannon Drive West UUCP: cs.texas.edu!oakhill!risc!wcl Austin, Texas 78735-8598 Phone (512) 891-4649 FAX: 891-3818 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!ams.com!e-math.ams.com!ash Mon May 24 17:19:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17567 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!ams.com!e-math.ams.com!ash From: ash@ulysses.mr.ams.com (Alan Harder) Subject: Re: holes in veggie garden In-Reply-To: cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov's message of 24 May 1993 08:35 EST Message-ID: Sender: news@e-math.ams.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: ulysses.mr.ams.com Organization: American Math. Society References: <24MAY199308351433@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 16:36:15 GMT Lines: 37 In article <24MAY199308351433@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) writes: >For the last month I have noticed holes appearing during the noght in my >veggie garden (square-foot style). The holes are about 1" in diameter and 3 >-4" deep, though the one I saw this morning was deep enough to make me >think it was a burrow. The holes are never at the edge of the garden (which >has boards and 18" high wire fencing to discourage rabbits and dogs). The >holes have been appearing in the pea and carrot squares, making it >difficult to tell if plants are disappearing or not. My first thought was >that the holes were made by birds looking for worms, but now I'm not so >sure. >I live near a wooded area, so any Ohio woodland critter could be the >potential culprit. Its my first spring in this house, so I have no idea >what critter to watch for. >Does anybody have an idea what these could be? Moles, voles, robins, snakes >? Even if you can only tell me what other signs to look for, I'd appreciate >it. >Marty We have squirrels that make holes similar to the ones you describe. They seem to like to dig around the base of our plants, uprooting them. They don't eat the plants, so we just replant them. -Alan Harder ash@math.ams.org The above commentary, which does not *even* represent the opinion of the American Mathematical Society, is sold by weight, not by volume. Some settling of the contents may have occurred during shipping. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!nntp1.radiomail.net!cronos!daydreamer!lienhard Mon May 24 17:19:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17568 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!nntp1.radiomail.net!cronos!daydreamer!lienhard From: lienhard@daydreamer.metaphor.com (Steve Lienhard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Control Ants Organically Message-ID: <3039@cronos.metaphor.com> Date: 24 May 93 15:40:51 GMT References: <24237@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@cronos.metaphor.com Organization: Metaphor Computer Systems, Mountain View, CA Lines: 17 I have had good luck with 5% borax solution (available from Gardens Alive!, but I think I've seen it elsewhere). I too attempted to control the aphids but not the ants with Ultra-fine spray oil. Result... aphids were gone for about a week, only to return in larger numbers with ants chasing away all of the natural predators. It was clear to me that I wasn't going to get rid of the aphids as long as the ants were around. Use a small thimble-sized container and place a few drops of the borax solution in it. Place this near the opening of the ant hill. Refill in the event of rain. In about a week, the entire ant colony is destroyed. One this happened, the soldier bugs which naturally populate my garden (wonderful predators) moved in within hours (I kid you not). Now both the ants and aphids are gone. Good luck... From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!socrates!johng Mon May 24 17:19:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17569 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!socrates!johng From: johng@socrates.umd.edu (John Gustafson) Subject: Re: Fall bulbs from Pinetree Seeds Message-ID: <1993May24.154343.28419@socrates.umd.edu> Organization: University of Maryland University College References: Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 15:43:43 GMT Lines: 16 stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) writes: > What experiences have people had with Fall bulbs from Pinetree Garden >Seeds? Their prices are much lower than Burpee's and other bigger >companies, but I'm wondering if there's a catch. Pinetree came through with several dozen vegetable seed packets in good condition for me last winter. Didn't order bulbs, though... I used Pinetree because they were cheap. Turned out they were fast as well. So far the seeds are making good efforts. Hope you have the same luck with your bulbs. John From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!charnel!kittykat.csuchico.edu Mon May 24 17:19:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17571 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!charnel!kittykat.csuchico.edu From: kschenk@oavax.csuchico.edu (Miz Kay) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Wind-trees-help! Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 09:07 PST Organization: CSU, Chico Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: <19930524090724.kschenk@kittykat.csuchico.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kittykat.csuchico.edu X-Newsreader: FTPNuz (DOS) v1.0 I'm desparately in need of some advice re nice ornamental trees that might stand up to some wind from both the North and South. I live In USDA zone 8-9 (not not exactly sure depending on your definition. I planted two nice red-leafed crabapples in my front yard but they're not bearing up at all well to the constant spring winds--one didn't even leaf out all the way. This is the first year they've had to endure these conditions--I planted them last fall. Any chance they might toughen up? Any other suggestions? I've read that sweet bay (magnolia virginia) will withstadn wind fairly well but since it's natural habitat is East coast and I live in the rather dry Northern Sacramento Valley, I have my doubts about this too. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!stoffel Mon May 24 17:19:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17572 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!stoffel From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Garden ponds Message-ID: <36235@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 24 May 93 16:49:42 GMT References: <1993May9.121838.1@musctn.monsanto.com> Reply-To: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (William Stoffel) Distribution: na Organization: Annapolis Detachment, CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC Lines: 128 In rec.gardens, fzbaker@dale.ucdavis.edu (Sharon D. Baker) writes: >A really good source of liners, filters, plants, pumps and fish is: > >Lilypons Water Gardens (3 locations) >P.O. Box 10 >Buckeystown, MD 21717-0010 >1-800-999-5459 > >OR > >P.O. Box 188 >Brookshire, TX 77423-0188 >1-800-765-5459 > >OR > >P.O. Box 1130 >Thermal, CA 92274-1130 >1-800-365-5459 > >-- >Sharon D. Baker >sdbaker@ucdavis.edu >(916) 752-9946 Thanks to Sharon for the info. on Lilypons. The following is a file I had handy with some other sources. I second Sharon's opinion on Lilypons. I've also had good service from Waterford Gardens. I have no personal experience with the others. Lilypons Water Gardens Paradise Water Gardens Box 10 62 May Street Lilypons, MD 21717-0010 Whitman, MA 02382 Santa Barbara Water Gardens Slocum Water Gardens Box 4353 1101 Cypress Gardens Boulevard Santa Barbara, CA 93140 Winter Haven, FL 33880-6099 Tetra Pond Van Ness Water Gardens Box 4858 2460 North Euclid Toms River, NJ 08754-9946 Upland, CA 91786-1199 Waterford Gardens 74 East Allendale Road Saddle River, NJ 07458 Path: oasys!dtix!darwin.sura.net!jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!news.wesleyan.edu!news.wesleyan.edu!news From: jdeck@wings.wcc.wesleyan.edu (Joseph G. Deck) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pond Building Message-ID: <1992Aug21.112246.198@news.wesleyan.edu> Date: 21 Aug 92 15:22:45 GMT eferences: <1992Aug21.104354.5334@mr.med.ge.com> Lines: 33 Nntp-Posting-Host: wings.wcc.wesleyan.edu In article <1992Aug21.104354.5334@mr.med.ge.com> writes: > Everyone is saying butal linerrs are the best but most expensive. Could > someone give me an idea on cost? I'm concidering a 50' x 18' pond in my > yard and would love to get an idea on cost. Maybe I can think bigger, or > maybe I'm thinking way over my budget. Pardise water gardens has a 45 mil @ 8 x 10 $100. up to 40 x 40 $1500 custom sizes are available Lilypons water gardens has a 30 mil @ 11 x 16 $299. 16 x 22 $595. custom sizes at $1.79 per square foot I put in my first pond last year using a 20 mil PVC liner. This year I put in my second pond using a 32 mil PVC liner. I think it all depends on how permanent you want the pond to be. Life expectancies given in some of the catalogs are: 20 mil PVC 7 - 10 yr 32 mil PVC 15 - 20 yr 30 mil butyl 30 yr 45 mil butyl 50 yr 45 mil Herulite 50 yr Path: oasys!dtix!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!ames!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ct076 From: ct076@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Michael T. Loos) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Royal water lily Message-ID: <1j4k44INNa1l@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Date: 14 Jan 93 20:57:40 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 21 NNTP-Posting-Host: slc10.ins.cwru.edu Sorry I don't know of a SEED source, but I do know a plant source and maybe they can be talked out some seeds. I saw the mother plant at the "farm"; it's pretty amazing here's the address: William Tricker, Inc. 7125 Tanglewood Dr. Independence, Ohio 44131 (216) 524-3491 ] The catalog is $3.00 , full color. They carry a WIDE assortment of water plants for ponds, patio water gardens. Also fish and all the stuff that goes with that. They used to be one of the chief hybridizers of water lilies and still carry many of their own hybrids. This is not an endorsement of this company, but to be used soley as a sorce of reference. My job requires that I say that. :) __________________________________________________________________________ Bill Stoffel | CARDEROCKDIV, NSWC |<- x-DTRC | stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil | Code 859 | x-NSRDC | (410) 267-3825 | Annapolis, MD 21402 | x-DTNSRDC (et alia) | _________________________________________________|________________________| From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Mon May 24 17:19:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17573 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Lemon Thyme Message-ID: <1993May24.162923.1109@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <24617@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 16:29:23 GMT Lines: 22 In article <24617@mindlink.bc.ca> Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >If your plant is a thyme, the most likely candidate is Lemon Thyme (Thymus >citriodorus). Another possibility is Doone Valley Lemon Thyme (Thymus >pulegoides). (Regular old garden thyme is Thymus vulgaris). According to >one of my herb books: "Herbs, Their Cultivation and Usage", John & Rosemary >Hemphill, Bladford Press, London, lemon time is used for culinary purposes. >They say that "Lemon thyme, with its milder flavour, is excellent with fish, >chicken or turkey mornays, steamed carrots, omelettes and in all kinds of >food with a delicate or bland flavour. It is sometimes used as an extra >ingredient in a "fines herbes" blend, with chervil, chives, parsley and >tarragon." When lemon thyme blooms, try sprinkling boiled, halved new potatoes with the blossoms and a little salt and cracked pepper. No butter needed. Can't wait! My thyme is still far from blooming. Lemon thyme is also good in vinaigrette on blanched green beans or lettuce. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU!wsl4m Mon May 24 17:19:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17574 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU!wsl4m From: wsl4m@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (W. Scott Laughinghouse) Subject: Re: My rhododendron didn't flower Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: University of Virginia References: <9305211328.AA00781@im4> Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 16:44:13 GMT Lines: 24 I have three rhodies right now, two red and one that is white. The white one is blooming right now but the two red ones have not bloomed. I can't tell right now if the buds are leaf buds or flower buds but I think they are leaf buds. ( not fat like I remember the flower buds.) I put azalea/rhodie fertilizer on them last spring after they flowered (Per the directions on the box) They grew fine all last summer. We did have a colder than normal winter and like most on the east coast got hit with 29 inches during the blizzard. I was just wondering what happen to them. They were a deep red last year and were beautiful. By the way the mountain laurel is just beginning to bloom here in the mountains of VA. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance. -- Scott Laughinghouse E-Mail wsl4m@virginia.edu {INTERNET} wsl4m@virginia.bitnet {BITNET} Just another nice day in the SHENANDOAH VALLEY !!!!!!!!! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!gallux.gallaudet.edu!gallua.gallaudet.edu!rlwilliams Mon May 24 17:19:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17575 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!gallux.gallaudet.edu!gallua.gallaudet.edu!rlwilliams From: rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu Subject: uses for cat litter? Message-ID: <1993May24.121949.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> Lines: 7 Sender: news@gallux.gallaudet.edu (News manager) Organization: Gallaudet University Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 17:19:49 GMT Hi, I have a cat and am wondering if I can take the poop that I scoop out of the litter box and add it to the compost pile. Is this a good idea? Any uses in the garden for the litter itself? skip From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU!saari Mon May 24 17:19:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17576 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU!saari From: saari@magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU (Susan J Saari) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: incredible worms on evergreen bushes Date: 24 May 1993 14:15:40 -0400 Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 20 Sender: daemon@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu We had these incredible worms chowing down on the needles of our small evergreen bushes. There were literally hundreds of them. They attached themselves by their bottom legs to the branch and ate the needles all the way to the bottom. When I discovered them, there were many mature ones, about an inch long, and many very small ones too. When I moved they would fan out in unison movement; the top parts of their bodies would sway almost like a breeze moved the leaves of a plant. They were on the way to completely defoliating my bushes. They were on all evergreen bushes (the bushes look like pine evergreen trees, only the size of bushes, common in yards here), but I didn't find them on anything else, including the taxus bushes. I looked in my insect book trying to find out what they were. Do you have any guesses? Sue Susan Saari Columbus, Ohio From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!bigboy.sbc.com!news.mtholyoke.edu!eddie.mit.edu!magnesium.club.cc.cmu.edu!pitt.edu!pjp23 Mon May 24 17:19:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17577 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!bigboy.sbc.com!news.mtholyoke.edu!eddie.mit.edu!magnesium.club.cc.cmu.edu!pitt.edu!pjp23 From: pjp23+@pitt.edu (Paul J Pival) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Water Garden: Recommendations sought Message-ID: <12213@blue.cis.pitt.edu> Date: 24 May 93 17:42:40 GMT Sender: news+@pitt.edu Distribution: usa Organization: University of Pittsburgh Lines: 1 From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet Mon May 24 17:19:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17578 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet From: Laura Uerling Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Wimpy carnation seedlings Date: 24 May 1993 18:05:48 GMT Organization: Cornell University Lines: 18 Sender: lju1@cornell.edu (Verified) Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tr2psINNgce@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: 132.236.42.171 X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7 X-XXDate: Mon, 24 May 93 19:12:09 GMT I'm trying to get a cutting garden going for the first time this year and have been having trouble with the carnation seedlings. For one thing, they've been terribly susceptible to damping off and other seedling problems, but I *finally* have enough viable ones for my purposes. However, they are still very small, with weak-looking stems that don't really support the leaves. It's finally warm enough here to consider planting them outside, but I'm afraid they won't last long in the big, cruel world. Right now they're under grow lights 14 hrs/day in our 70 degree house. I've been watering them sparingly after the damping off problems, but they just don't seem to grow very much or get any stronger. Would putting them outside for a few hours a day beef them up? How about fertilizer? In other words, Help! Any suggestions appreciated! Laura From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet Mon May 24 17:20:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17579 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet From: Laura Uerling Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Flowering chives Date: 24 May 1993 18:11:39 GMT Organization: Cornell University Lines: 13 Sender: lju1@cornell.edu (Verified) Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tr34rINNgce@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: 132.236.42.171 X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7 X-XXDate: Mon, 24 May 93 19:18:01 GMT I have some chives in my garden that are growing like crazy and producing lots of purple flowers. I know it's generally not a good idea to let herbs go to seed, but at what point should I cut off the flower/seed head? Now? When they start producing seeds? And what will happen if I don't? I suppose that I could just chop 'em off now to be safe, but there's not much color in my garden yet, and the purple flowers are rather pretty. :-) TIA, Laura From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!tamsun.tamu.edu!zeus.tamu.edu!jzh2485 Mon May 24 17:20:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17580 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!tamsun.tamu.edu!zeus.tamu.edu!jzh2485 From: jzh2485@zeus.tamu.edu (HINTON, JOHNNY ZANE) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Atriums in a house Date: 24 May 1993 13:59 CDT Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services Lines: 16 Distribution: world Message-ID: <24MAY199313593399@zeus.tamu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: zeus.tamu.edu News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Looks like I'm going to take the plunge and purchase a home with a 300 square foot atrium in the middle of the house. Now does anyone have any experience with atriums they would like to share? This has a drian and all runoff is collected and stored in a 220 gallon tank for reuse. The top is lifted manually and I think I'd like to exlore an automated top (open and close). Ideas? suggestions? experience? I'm in Texas so I can grow just about anything and of course it will be bigger and better tahtn what can be grown anywhere else ;) ;) John Z. From samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!lindy.Stanford.EDU!not-for-mail Mon May 24 17:20:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17581 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!lindy.Stanford.EDU!not-for-mail From: zbear@lindy.Stanford.EDU (Stewart Kramer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rhubarb Date: 24 May 1993 13:17:36 -0700 Organization: Stanford University Lines: 16 Message-ID: <1trah0$1fn@lindy.Stanford.EDU> References: <24616@mindlink.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: lindy.stanford.edu In article <24616@mindlink.bc.ca> Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >In response to Tom Kovats:kovats@vax2.concordia.ca >As to why some plants bloom and others don't -or won't for several years and >then do- I think this just has to do with all those factors that make any >perennial (like an iris for example) decide to bloom or not...in other words, >the age of the plant, amount of sunlight, how happy the plant is with soil >conditions and so on. Note that the plant in question is the middle of one of three plants, so it may be aware that it can't spread very far. In that situation, the only way it can spread is by going to seed, right? Many "fussy" perennials only bloom when they get crowded. --- Stewart Kramer From samba!sunSITE!london Mon May 24 17:20:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17582 of rec.gardens Xref: samba sci.med.nutrition:3325 misc.health.diabetes:742 rec.food.veg:24386 rec.gardens:17582 Newsgroups: sci.med.nutrition,misc.health.diabetes,rec.food.veg,rec.gardens Path: samba!sunSITE!london From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London) Subject: sunSITE GOPHER has archives of this & other health-related newsgroups Message-ID: <1993May24.205112.12711@samba.oit.unc.edu> Sender: usenet@samba.oit.unc.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: sunsite.unc.edu Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 20:51:12 GMT sunSITE has archives of articles, FAQs and miscellaneous information for the following health-related newsgroups: misc.health.alternative sci.life-extension alt.meditation misc.health.diabetes sci.med.nutrition rec.food.veg Files and articles are accessable via GOPHER, WAIS, FTP & FTPMAIL. To get there telnet or ftp to: sunsite.unc.edu Login: gopher (or swais) Enter terminal emulation (vt100 works fine) FTP: look in /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare GOPHER: browse sunSITE archives WAIS: enter /sunsite at first page of sources For further information contact: Lawrence London : : london@sunSITE.unc.edu From samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!eddie.mit.edu!uhog.mit.edu!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Mon May 24 17:20:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17583 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!eddie.mit.edu!uhog.mit.edu!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Ar-r-r-rgh! (pond story) Message-ID: <120636@bu.edu> Date: 24 May 93 20:34:07 GMT Sender: news@bu.edu Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 44 I'm depressed and need sympathy from soneone who will grasp the situation! Saturday my husband and I went to a local discount pet store and got several\ fish for our little pond -- two golden goldfish, one grey/green "fish color" goldfish, one spotted goldfish -- and two koi: one "cremesicle" with golden head and tail and a creme color stripe down the sides, top to bottom, and one spotted with black and white on the predominantly orange body. We released them around six pm. Cost $28+, $17 of that for the koi. Sunday morning I went to a flea market and returned a bit before noon. I went out to say hello to the fish. GONE! Not a fin, not a scale, absolutely no fish! Like they grew wings and flew away! From a landlocked totally artificial pond. The suspects are a. bratty preschool neighbor kids seen with butterfly nets -- there were two who tried to catch my fish last year, and I caught THEM instead. (I can't imagine parents seeing a collection of 5" obviously not wild fish and letting it go unchallenged, though.) or b. raccoon. (This seems the more likely suspect since one was found dead a quarter mile away at the entrance to the housing development Sunday morning. Maybe we gave it it's last (gourmet) meal!) In any case, I spent almost $30 for rather pretty fish and didn't even get to keep them 24 hours! so Ar-r-r-rgh!!! (Anti-theft solutions under consideration -- all I can think of is net or mesh slightly under the water surface, thus spoiling the "view" and hampering my water lilies.) At least this year the marauders, whatever kind they were, didn't spoil the rest of the pond like last year. (Last year the aforementioned brats knocked over all the plant pots and set back the lilies so they never bloomed. Later in the year a visiting bird, egret seen elsewhere suspected, ate several of that collection of fish and also knocked voer the pots.) Ponds are SO much fun sometimes!! The $300 chain-link fence around most of the yard didn't help much this time. What to do what to do! (As the cheapskate/bargain gardener of the net, this loss of investment (and entertainment/mosquito control) really upsets me!) Advice, anybody!? Sherry From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!rational.com!pelton!rlk Mon May 24 22:45:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17584 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!rational.com!pelton!rlk From: rlk@pelton.Rational.COM (Robert Kitzberger) Subject: Re: Compost pile question Message-ID: Sender: news@rational.com Organization: Rational References: <16588@arccs1.fed.frb.gov> <1453300200@igc.apc.org> Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 20:42:14 GMT Lines: 17 Libby Goldstein writes: >It all depends on the weather and whether you turn the pile a lot. There are >compost enhancers on the market, but if you layer in an inch of soil for >every foot or so of clippings, you won't need them. In order to keep the pile >from turning to hay instead of compost keep it moist. If it doesn't rain for a >week, water the pile. Don't soak it just keep it moist. If it gets too wet, it >may go anerobic and stink quite a lot. What to do with the anerobic stuff? Toss it out and start from scratch? .Bob. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Bob Kitzberger Internet: rlk@rational.com Rational, Grass Valley, CA CompuServe: 70743,1550 type Opinion is private; From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!nic.umass.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!eddie.mit.edu!news.intercon.com!psinntp!dg-rtp!chutney!eliot Mon May 24 22:45:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17585 of rec.gardens Xref: samba rec.gardens:17585 misc.consumers:44409 misc.consumers.house:33814 Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers,misc.consumers.house Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!nic.umass.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!eddie.mit.edu!news.intercon.com!psinntp!dg-rtp!chutney!eliot From: eliot@chutney.rtp.dg.com (Topher Eliot) Subject: Re: Recommendations for Electric Lawnmowers Sender: usenet@dg-rtp.dg.com (Usenet Administration) Message-ID: <1993May24.202233.24776@dg-rtp.dg.com> Date: Mon, 24 May 93 20:22:33 GMT Distribution: na Reply-To: eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com References: <1993May24.005818.18031@mdd.comm.mot.com> Organization: Data General Corporation, Research Triangle Park, NC Lines: 60 In article <1993May24.005818.18031@mdd.comm.mot.com>, rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com (Doug Rudoff) writes: |> |> Can anyone give me any recommedations (or non-recommendations) for |> electric lawn mowers? |> |> These are the models I've seen |> |> Sears has a Craftsman 19 inch mulcher/standard including rear bag for |> $200. It does seem heavier than the others. |> |> Sears also has two Black and Deckers models one mulching, one |> non-mulching for about $200 and $160, respectively, side bag extra $$. |> They are very light and seem like a newer design. |> |> A local home warehouse store has a Wheeler for $160 and $30 for a side |> bag. |> |> The Craftsman would be the choice except for its weight (it needs to |> go up stairs). |> |> Does anyone have any experience with these mowers or any other |> electric ones? B & D make at least three models that are superficially similar, i.e. green plastic bodies with flip-over handles. I think they're more expensive at Sears than elsewhere, but I could be confusing models. My neighbor has a B&D that is less than two years old. His is one that just throws the clippings to the side (although I think a bagger is available); it isn't the mulcher. The body is already starting to deform some; the wheel axles are no longer parallel to the ground, and he's planning on replacing the plastic wheels. It bogs down in tall or wet grass. It's nice and quiet. I found the grip thing for turning it on a bit annoying to get into the 'on' position. The local Brendle's had one of these with a broken lever (the one that releases the handle to allow it to flip over). All in all it didn't seem too sturdy. But my neighbor likes it. I bought the metal Sears. I like it. It mulches well. Then again the little fingers that are supposed to hold the extension cord plugged in promptly broke off. I'll let it go for a while and see if I really need them. The bigger Sears is a bit louder than my neighbor's B&D, but both are pretty quiet compared to gas mowers. The on/off grip switch is slightly better than the B&D. The handle does not flip over. It's a rear-bagger or mulcher. Plan on spending some on an extension cord; you need at least 14 guage (assuming 100') so that the motor will get high enough voltage to not overheat, etc. This is true notwithstanding the current rating on lighter-weight cords; that reflects only how much current they can carry before the *cord* is in danger. I went all out and bought a premium 12-guage 100' cord for $48. Oh, well I could have spent 3 times that at Grainger, so I guess I didn't go *all* out :-) -- Topher Eliot Data General DG/UX Systems Administration Development (919) 248-6371 eliot@dg-rtp.dg.com Obviously, I speak for myself, not for DG. misc.consumers.house archivist. Send mail to house-archive@dg-rtp.dg.com "Spiders are your friends, even if you're like me and kill every one you see." From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!nobody Mon May 24 22:45:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17586 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!nobody From: davids@hpsdde.sdd.hp.com (David Schwantner) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: holes in veggie garden Date: 24 May 1993 14:42:32 -0700 Organization: Hewlett Packard, San Diego Division Lines: 16 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1trfg8INNod0@hpsdde.sdd.hp.com> References: <24MAY199308351433@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdde.sdd.hp.com In article <24MAY199308351433@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) writes: >For the last month I have noticed holes appearing during the noght in my >veggie garden (square-foot style). The holes are about 1" in diameter and 3 >-4" deep, though the one I saw this morning was deep enough to make me >think it was a burrow. The holes are never at the edge of the garden (which >has boards and 18" high wire fencing to discourage rabbits and dogs). The My guess is skunks digging for grubs. You can consider this a blessing as long as you don't want to go out there at night and you don't get sprayed! :-) Try smoothing out the area around your garden, and looking for tracks the next morning. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- David Schwantner - Hewlett-Packard - San Diego Site ----------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams Mon May 24 22:45:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17587 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams) Subject: Re: Rhubarb Message-ID: <1993May24.145611.21827@hemlock.cray.com> Lines: 17 Nntp-Posting-Host: cherry10 Reply-To: dadams@cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993May24.143918.7860@almserv.uucp> Date: 24 May 93 14:56:10 CDT In article 7860@almserv.uucp, s5uagm@fnma.COM (Andrew Miller) writes: | I guess you could harvest and use this long stalk, but I'm not sure |what kind of flavor it would have. | It tastes just like rhubarb of course. ;^) (I speak from experience--but then I am one of a very few people who actually enjoys chewing on raw rhubarb.) --- --David C. Adams Statistician Cray Research Inc. dadams@cray.com -Sourdough and Ham- N0WWN Old Sourdoughs never die! They just ferment away. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Mon May 24 22:45:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17588 of rec.gardens Xref: samba rec.gardens:17588 misc.consumers:44413 misc.consumers.house:33825 Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers,misc.consumers.house Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: Recommendations for elec. mower Message-ID: <1993May24.220508.12362@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Distribution: na Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 22:05:08 GMT Lines: 34 In article: <1993May24.005818.18031@mdd.comm.mot.com> rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com (Doug Rudoff) asks: > >Can anyone give me any recommedations (or non-recommendations) for >electric lawn mowers? > ------------deletions----------- > >The Craftsman would be the choice except for its weight (it needs to >go up stairs). > >Does anyone have any experience with these mowers or any other >electric ones? > >Doug Rudoff Motorola, Seattle INTERNET:rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com I've used a Toro electric for many (at least 15) years. I don't know if they still produce one, but this has been a workhorse. I've replace the switch cable, but other than that and sharpening, I've had no problems with it. It is a heavy sucker, though, and I wouldn't recommend it if you have to bring your mower up stairs. Recently I've switched to a push reel mower for most of my use, but I still use the electric in the fall because it picks up the leaves so I don't have to rake the lawn. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!ncr-sd!mattc Mon May 24 22:45:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17589 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!ncr-sd!mattc From: mattc@SanDiego.NCR.COM (Matthew Costello) Subject: Saving bulbs from bugs Message-ID: <1993May24.192633.25531@SanDiego.NCR.COM> Organization: NCR Corporation, E&M San Diego Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 19:26:33 GMT Lines: 29 I left my bulbs (Tulips, Daffodils, Iris) in the ground last summer, which turned out to be a big mistake. The bugs have eaten many of them and few of the tulips even came up this past winter. I live in a very temperate climate 1/2 mile from the ocean. [Yesterdays temp: high 68, low 62] I started digging up the bulbs and am finding lots of bugs eating my bulbs, primarily slugs and very small (1/32") white bugs. I am removing the slugs as I dig them out, but the white bugs are too small and are often eating from the inside out. HELP! What should I do to treat the bulbs to kill them? I don't want to have to peel all the bulbs to check for bugs. Some of the bulbs are very small. I don't know how well they will survive until the fall. I will probably not put the bulbs back down until Thanksgiving day. Normal lows in winter are 50s and some of the bulbs start growing as soon as they are in the ground. Given the local weather (lots of fog through June) I'm wondering if I can trick the bulbs into a several month cycle this summer. Has anyone ever tried this? I can shade them with netting if necessary. I don't expect any 90s days until late august, and by then they should already have bloomed and be cycling down. Also, what is a good reference on growing bulbs? Especially in a moderate climate. -- Matthew Costello +1 619 485 2926 uunet!ncrcom!ncr-sd!mattc From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!mdisea!mothost!lmpsbbs!mrkos!krueger Mon May 24 22:45:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17590 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!mdisea!mothost!lmpsbbs!mrkos!krueger From: krueger@ssd.comm.mot.com (Kevin Krueger) Subject: Astilbe, shady stuff Reply-To: krueger@ssd.comm.mot.com Organization: Motorola LMPS Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 19:29:20 GMT Message-ID: <1993May24.192920.13415@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> Sender: news@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: 145.1.55.204 Lines: 14 I am search of a source for Astilbes. I live in NW Chicago and I haven't found a local source for them. Are there any mail order houses that might still supply them ?? And since I am speaking about shady plants, I would like to ask if there are any other interesting shade plants besides the usual ferns, hostas, impatiens, etc. I have a lot of tree cover and very little sunlight and I would like to develop a real nice, thick shaded area. Thanks, Kevin From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsb.cb.att.com!mcarey Mon May 24 22:45:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17591 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsb.cb.att.com!mcarey From: mcarey@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (michael.e.carey) Subject: Re: Tomatoe blite? Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <1993May21.133527.9964@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Distribution: na Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 19:50:20 GMT Lines: 87 In article <1993May21.133527.9964@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) writes: >In article: mcarey@cbnewsb.cb.att.com > (michael.e.carey) asks: > >>Hello, >> >>His is my first year at attempting to plant a semi-serious vegitable >>garden. I have to say that so far, things are not going well. I >>would appreciate any advice anyone has for the following problems. >> >>1. Snow Peas: I planted these in mid April and they came up >---deletion---- >>4 days. I was very sunny and 90+. Also, during that time I >>sprayed 2,4-D on the lawn so drift is a possibility. Since > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >>about mid-way through the hot spell, the peas started turning >>yellow. Thy have not grown at all in about 2 weeks and look >>very sick. They are not wilted (turger pressure is ok) the >>just look yellow and sickly. >> >>2. Tomatoes: I planted 30 tomatoe plants in the middle of the >>hot spell. The next day after planting the plants did not >>look good. They were all twisted and wilted looking although there > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >>turger pressure was also OK. I planted these after I sprayed the lawn. >> >>It is not just the garden that is looking bad. Rasberry bushes > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >>also look wilted (twisted). My large maple trees have wilted leaves > ^^^^^^^ >>but that situation is improving. Could the recent hot spell have >>caused this? I am mainly interested in what I might need >--------deletion-------- > >>Any ideas? >>Michael > >The twisted and wilted description fits 2-4-D damage to a T. The hot >weather would exagerate the effects of 2-4-D on your plants (makes all >their chemical operations go into high gear while putting a lot of stress >on them). > >Please be more careful with your deadly chemicals. I hope your neighbors >aren't experiencing problems caused by your spraying. > >--Jill > I have ruled out 2,4-D drift for the following reasons: 1. The garden, with the exception of the peas, was planted 2 days after I sprayed. 2. The sprayer I used was mounted on a Garden tractor and the spray heads are about 10" off of the ground. I sprayed on a calm day. 3. My neighbor's tomatoes are also wilted looking but without the small brown spots. 4. I have tested the soil in the garden with an el-cheepo nitrogen test and the results were puzzling. I either have no nitrogen in the soil, way to much, or the test was not accurate. The results I got were off of the scale but it was not clear to which end. Since I did remove the top 2-3 inches of top soil, I am assuming that the plants are suffering from nitrogen defficiency. 5. All of my pepper plants that I planted at the same time, are doing fairly well. So, assuming that the 2,4-D is not the cause, are there any other suggestions? I have started putting some Miricle grow tomatoe food on them to see if there is any measurable improvement. So far, growth is extremely slow and the plants still look sickly. If I really do have just a trace of nitrogen in my soil, what can I do to save this years crop? At the end of this year I plan to ammend with horse manuer, but what can I do in the mean time? Am I just being impatient? In about two weeks the plants have grown maybe 2". Michael From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!sweiger Mon May 24 22:45:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17592 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!sweiger From: sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger) Subject: Re: Ar-r-r-rgh! (pond story) Message-ID: <1993May24.215525.11721@sequent.com> Sender: usenet@sequent.com (usenet ) Nntp-Posting-Host: eng2.sequent.com Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc. References: <120636@bu.edu> Date: Mon, 24 May 93 21:55:25 GMT Lines: 17 In article <120636@bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >I'm depressed and need sympathy from soneone who will grasp the situation! > >Saturday my husband and I went to a local discount pet store and got several\ >fish for our little pond -- two golden goldfish, one grey/green "fish color" >goldfish, one spotted goldfish -- and two koi: one "cremesicle" with golden >head and tail and a creme color stripe down the sides, top to bottom, and >one spotted with black and white on the predominantly orange body. We >released them around six pm. Cost $28+, $17 of that for the koi. Two solutions that have worked for me are 1) a large dog in the fenced backyard with the koi pond, and 2) an electric fence around the pond area. -- phone: (503)578-4329 fax: (503)578-5730 internet: sweiger@sequent.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Mon May 24 22:45:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17593 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Ar-r-r-rgh! (pond story) Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <120636@bu.edu> Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 23:03:02 GMT Lines: 58 In article <120636@bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >I'm depressed and need sympathy from soneone who will grasp the situation! > >Saturday my husband and I went to a local discount pet store and got several\ >fish for our little pond -- two golden goldfish, one grey/green "fish color" >goldfish, one spotted goldfish -- and two koi: one "cremesicle" with golden >head and tail and a creme color stripe down the sides, top to bottom, and >one spotted with black and white on the predominantly orange body. We >released them around six pm. Cost $28+, $17 of that for the koi. > >Sunday morning I went to a flea market and returned a bit before noon. I >went out to say hello to the fish. GONE! Not a fin, not a scale, absolutely >no fish! Like they grew wings and flew away! From a landlocked totally >artificial pond. > >The suspects are a. bratty preschool neighbor kids seen with butterfly nets -- >there were two who tried to catch my fish last year, and I caught THEM instead. >(I can't imagine parents seeing a collection of 5" obviously not wild fish >and letting it go unchallenged, though.) or b. raccoon. (This seems the more >likely suspect since one was found dead a quarter mile away at the entrance >to the housing development Sunday morning. Maybe we gave it it's last (gourmet) >meal!) > >In any case, I spent almost $30 for rather pretty fish and didn't even get to >keep them 24 hours! so Ar-r-r-rgh!!! > >(Anti-theft solutions under consideration -- all I can think of is net or >mesh slightly under the water surface, thus spoiling the "view" and hampering >my water lilies.) > >At least this year the marauders, whatever kind they were, didn't spoil the >rest of the pond like last year. (Last year the aforementioned brats knocked >over all the plant pots and set back the lilies so they never bloomed. Later >in the year a visiting bird, egret seen elsewhere suspected, ate several >of that collection of fish and also knocked voer the pots.) Ponds are SO much >fun sometimes!! The $300 chain-link fence around most of the yard didn't >help much this time. What to do what to do! (As the cheapskate/bargain >gardener of the net, this loss of investment (and entertainment/mosquito >control) really upsets me!) > >Advice, anybody!? > >Sherry > > Might I also suggest: c) An egret again, like the one that got some fish last year. d) A cat My guess is that if it is a wild animal, it might be the racoon. John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!olivea!stratus!soave!jane Mon May 24 22:46:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17594 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!olivea!stratus!soave!jane From: jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Poppies and Martha Stewart Message-ID: <9518.757@stratus.SWDC.Stratus.COM> Date: 24 May 93 22:28:38 GMT References: <1s619g$c66@male.EBay.Sun.COM> <1993May6.133821.1357@calmasd.prime.com> Sender: news@SWDC.Stratus.COM Distribution: na Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc., San Jose, CA Lines: 19 There's an article on poppies in the latest Martha Stewart Living. Interestingly enough, it makes the statement that "it's a common myth that opium poppies are illegal." Did Martha blow it on this one? Everyone here seems to agree that they are, indeed, illegal. And speaking of poppies, I got some oriental poppy seeds from a friend, last year, but none of them seem to have come up. I'm up to my eyeballs in corn poppies, which self seeded all over the front yard (ah, some of us must suffer!) ;-), but there hasn't been a sign of an oriental poppy. Are these more finicky? Do they not like California weather? Supposedly, these were fresh seeds. Or do they take more care and nurturing than corn poppies? -- Jilara [jane@swdc.stratus.com] "Every now and then, a big rock falls out of the sky, and everyone has a *very bad* day." --from the PBS "Dinosaurs" special. From samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Mon May 24 22:46:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17595 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Compost pile question Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <16588@arccs1.fed.frb.gov> <1453300200@igc.apc.org> Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 23:05:35 GMT Lines: 28 In article rlk@pelton.Rational.COM (Robert Kitzberger) writes: >Libby Goldstein writes: > >>It all depends on the weather and whether you turn the pile a lot. There are >>compost enhancers on the market, but if you layer in an inch of soil for >>every foot or so of clippings, you won't need them. In order to keep the pile >>from turning to hay instead of compost keep it moist. If it doesn't rain for a >>week, water the pile. Don't soak it just keep it moist. If it gets too wet, it >>may go anerobic and stink quite a lot. > >What to do with the anerobic stuff? Toss it out and start from scratch? > > .Bob. >-- >------------------------------------------------------------------------ >Bob Kitzberger Internet: rlk@rational.com >Rational, Grass Valley, CA CompuServe: 70743,1550 >type Opinion is private; I would think that you could loosten it up (fluff or shred it out), let it dry out a little, and it would start decaying aerobically again. John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Mon May 24 22:46:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17596 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Message-ID: <1993May24.161108.28603@walter.cray.com> Lines: 31 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com> Distribution: usa,na Date: 24 May 93 16:11:07 CDT In article <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com>, tcmcfarl@b24a.b24a.ingr.com (Theresa C McFarland) writes: >Please help me settle a debate between my husband and me. > >I want to mulch our Bermuda grass lawn. My husband thinks that the >mulch will kill the Bermuda. He cites the fact that we have some bare >spots and thinks it's from thatch leftover from the previous year. >(I think the bare spots are from diseases taking over after last year's >cold - hot - cold - hot - cold - hot spring). >I say the lawn is starving for some nutrients and mulching will feed >the grass. He's been bagging the grass. I can't find the plate >that converts our lawn mower from a bagger to a mulcher. He says he >knows where it is but won't get it because he feels that mulching will >kill the grass. I tried to respond before and the news server connection kept dying. Bermuda grass is subject to a condition called "Spring Dead Spot" Areas of grass 1-3' in diameter winterkill in conditions bermudagrass should be able to survive and new growth in the intervening summers is unthrifty and subsequently winterkills. The condition is worse in areas with chilly winters which causes the bermudagrass to go dormant for long periods but can occur anywhere bermudagrass goes dormant at all. When I last read about it during slow periods in my 1978 summer job at a golf course, the cause was not known and there was no cure. In 15 years this may have changed. Could someone else with more recent experience with turfgrass management respond in more detail? From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Mon May 24 22:46:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17597 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Mulching Bermuda Message-ID: <1993May24.161925.28728@walter.cray.com> Lines: 18 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993May13.151230.12782@infonode.ingr.com> <93133.201629ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> Distribution: usa,na Date: 24 May 93 16:19:25 CDT In article <93133.201629ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET>, writes: |> Mulching bermuda will not kill it. Parking a huge truck on bermuda will |> not kill bermuda. Spraying Roundup will not kill bermuda. My dog Jeff |> urinating will not kill bermuda. Setting it on fire _might_ kill bermuda |> but I have my doubts. Scraping the top 8" of soil off and sifting out every |> piece of rhhizome slows bermuda down a little. |> |> Stefani who is nearly distracted by the stuff. Minnesota winters kill bermuda. If you make a large investment in bermudagrass fairways, tees lawns, etc, Washington DC winters will sooner or later kill bermuda. However down here it will always survive in the flowerbeds, sand traps, sidewalk cracks, landscaping and vegetable garden and other places you DON'T want it even in the occasional winter when the beautiful bermuda lawn is permanently destroyed. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Mon May 24 22:46:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17598 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: uses for cat litter? Message-ID: <1993May24.162956.28806@walter.cray.com> Lines: 20 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993May24.121949.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> Date: 24 May 93 16:29:55 CDT In article <1993May24.121949.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu>, rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu writes: |> Hi, |> I have a cat and am wondering if I can take the poop that I scoop |> out of the litter box and add it to the compost pile. Is this a good idea? |> Any uses in the garden for the litter itself? |> |> skip |> I don't think it is a good idea. Cat feces (feces in general) can be a source of various worms and parasites which can infect you. Also feces can harbor fungi which, when inhaled, cause mild illness in most people but can also cause serious birth defects in pregnant women. I believe the disease is called toxoplasmosis I have two cats and I am really tempted to use this wonderful organic stuff in the garden but it always goes out in the trash. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail Mon May 24 22:46:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17599 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail From: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: uses for cat litter? Date: 24 May 1993 20:06:12 -0400 Organization: The Dorsai Embassy Lines: 16 Message-ID: <1trntk$1be@dorsai.DORSAI.ORG> References: <1993May24.121949.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: dorsai.dorsai.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu wrote: : Hi, : I have a cat and am wondering if I can take the poop that I scoop : out of the litter box and add it to the compost pile. Is this a good idea? : Any uses in the garden for the litter itself? : skip Now THAT is an interesting idea! The only problem that I can see is that cats are (of course) carnivores and their feces may have the same problem that putting meat in the compost pile may have. Then again, I haven't been gardening too long and I hope that someone more experienced also answers. -- "...wisdom is like a bug hitting your windshield; ||David Gurzynski he didn't expect it, you didn't expect it, ||Dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org its not pretty, but you can't ignore it!" ||Prodigy: KGHM08A From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!convex!news.utdallas.edu!corpgate!brtph560!brtph7cc!emilys Mon May 24 22:46:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17600 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!convex!news.utdallas.edu!corpgate!brtph560!brtph7cc!emilys From: emilys@brtph7cc.bnr.ca (Emily Smith P215) Subject: Re: holes in veggie garden Message-ID: <1993May24.185208.3890@brtph560.bnr.ca> Sender: Emily Smith Organization: Bell-Northern Research, RTP, NC References: <24MAY199308351433@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 18:52:08 GMT Lines: 6 We have the exact same holes in both flower and veggie gardens. Our yard is wooded and full of squirrels. My husband places the blame directly upon those little rodents.... --Emily From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer Mon May 24 22:46:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17601 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Poppies and Martha Stewart Date: 25 May 1993 00:26:02 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 37 Distribution: na Message-ID: <1trp2qINNhdo@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1s619g$c66@male.EBay.Sun.COM> <1993May6.133821.1357@calmasd.prime.com> <9518.757@stratus.SWDC.Stratus.COM> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein2.u.washington.edu >"it's a common myth that opium poppies are illegal." Did >Martha blow it on this one? Everyone here seems to agree that >they are, indeed, illegal. If you are in the U.S., they are. Interetingly enough, the latest issue of Horticulture shows a garden with beautiful double opium poppies (and they are identified as P. somniferum inside the cover). Here in Seattle they are such a common weed that I think most people who have them in the garden have no idea what it is they are growing. My neighbors did however get a huge clump of beautiful oriental poppies ripped out of their yard last year by folks probably thinking they had the opium poppy. (And they had but to look on the side of the same house! :) >And speaking of poppies, I got some oriental poppy seeds from >a friend, last year, but none of them seem to have come up. >I'm up to my eyeballs in corn poppies, which self seeded all >over the front yard (ah, some of us must suffer!) ;-), but >there hasn't been a sign of an oriental poppy. Are these more >finicky? Do they not like California weather? Supposedly, >these were fresh seeds. Or do they take more care and >nurturing than corn poppies? When did you plant them? I treat them the same as shirleys, which means sowing them in the Fall and letting them go through the winter. They sprout in late fall when the rains fall and start establishing themselves and then really come along with a vengeance in the spring. You can plant them in spring too, but you usually won't get flowers the first year (and most of them don't flower the first year anyway, but one sown last autumn is sending up a single flower now). You might have them up and not recognize them (unless they are planted in a different place than the shirleys). Look for plants that are strictly rosettes, as opposed to the shirleys which have a real upright stem. The orientals are also more robust and hairy than the shirleys. If they are there, you might just have to wait another year. Good luck! From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpcss01!capella!savage Mon May 24 22:46:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17602 of rec.gardens From: savage@capella.cup.hp.com (Deborah Savage) Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 16:46:44 GMT Subject: labels for rose gardens?? Message-ID: <143740002@capella.cup.hp.com> Organization: Hewlett Packard, Cupertino Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpcss01!capella!savage Newsgroups: rec.gardens Lines: 18 Hi folks, Any suggestions as to where to purchase or how to approximate the wood and engraved plastic labels with which rose gardens usually label their roses? They are usually some wood and black plastic (with white pressed lettering). I would like something which will last but do not want the steel engraving labels I see advertised in the J & P catalogs. I want something easy to read. I've planted quite a few roses in the backyard and would like to approximate the formal look of "labeled" roses. Thanks again, Deborah Savage Hewlett-Packard Cupertino, California savage@cup.hp.com From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!uwpg02.uwinnipeg.ca!chem Mon May 24 22:46:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17603 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!uwpg02.uwinnipeg.ca!chem From: chem@uwpg02.uwinnipeg.ca Subject: Is 2-4D carcinogenic or is the binding agent? Message-ID: <25MAY93.01251291@uwpg02.uwinnipeg.ca> Sender: news@ccu.umanitoba.ca Nntp-Posting-Host: uwpg02.uwinnipeg.ca Organization: University of Winnipeg Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 07:25:12 GMT Lines: 5 Hi. What is the best way to get rid of dandelions from your lawn? Someone said 2-4D was good but others said it was carcinogenic. Any comments. Thanx. Marsh Internet: chem@uwpg02.uwinnipeg.ca From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn Mon May 24 22:46:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17604 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn From: dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: zucchini problem Date: 25 May 1993 01:23:47 GMT Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences Lines: 16 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1trsf3$77g@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: pangea.stanford.edu My zucchini (sp?) plants are fruiting, but before they get big enough to pick, they turn yellow and shrivel up. It seems to happen first at the blossom end and move toward the stem. There is no mold or anything on them, and there are a few (related?) gnaw marks. Is this insect damage? fungus? Nutrient deficiency (I haven't fertilized them at all). By the way, the rest of the plant looks quite healthy. Thanks for any help. Dawn From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fastrac.llnl.gov!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!reed!henson!news.u.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!jmclean Mon May 24 22:46:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17605 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fastrac.llnl.gov!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!reed!henson!news.u.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!jmclean From: jmclean@carson.u.washington.edu (Dian Campbell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Japanese catnip Date: 25 May 1993 01:19:39 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 6 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1trs7bINNi38@news.u.washington.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu Hello gardeners. I'm trying to find the botanical name for "matatabi." Some friends in Japan sent a package for my cats. The cats gnawed the sticks and acted crazy. Before I make them addicts, I'd like to know "What _is_ this stuff? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!ravel.udel.edu!jtmorgan Mon May 24 22:46:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17606 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!ravel.udel.edu!jtmorgan From: jtmorgan@ravel.udel.edu (James Morgan) Subject: Re: Astilbe, shady stuff Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.udel.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: ravel.udel.edu Organization: University of Delaware References: <1993May24.192920.13415@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 01:48:12 GMT Lines: 12 Burpee puts out a nice book about shade gardens and lists a lot of plants in it. It also gives good advice in what to mix with what and offers a lot of variety. If your local sources of info can't get you the exact title then emai to me and I will dig out my copy and send you the info to order it. BTW I have the same problem with shade and am coping the same way you are. I have started with a base of silver gray (looks blue to me) hosta and mix in some caladiums (sp?). This along with the usual impatiens and other stuff. One trick I have is to put sping bulbs in and watch them come up during full sun and then as the leaves of trees start to form see them go into shade. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!uplherc!giga!noel Mon May 24 22:46:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17607 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!uplherc!giga!noel From: noel@advtech.slc.paramax.com (Eileen Noel) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Butterflies Message-ID: <2250@giga.slc.paramax.com> Date: 24 May 93 12:52:13 GMT Organization: Paramax, Salt Lake City, Utah Lines: 14 Hi all ... Our city has a problem with gypsy moths, which "they" are attempting to control with bacillus thurengiensis (excuse my spelling). As a result of this process I have seen *no* butterflies in my garden this spring. I miss these "flying flowers" desperately and was wondering if there is a way to "plant" chrysalises, just as we sometimes "plant" praying mantis eggs. Anyone have ideas as to sources, possibilities, etc.? Thanks in advance, Eileen Noel From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ab555 Mon May 24 23:22:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17608 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ab555 From: ab555@Freenet.carleton.ca (Margaret Redding) Subject: Re: curry plant? Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Reply-To: ab555@Freenet.carleton.ca (Margaret Redding) Organization: The National Capital Freenet References: <1993May17.083747.1@uncavx.unca.edu> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 02:35:39 GMT Lines: 26 In a previous article, strauss@uncavx.unca.edu () says: >I bought a plant this weekend, called a Curry plant. Smells just like curry. I >know, however, that curry does not use this plant. I forget the scientific >name, starts with an "H". The name is Helichrysum. >Does anyone know if it *is* edible? I don't think so: nothing with it to >indicate such. Apparently, it is a moth repellant. But wouldn't be worth >smelling like curry, in order to protect woolen sweaters. Not to me, anyway. According to my book on herbs, it is not edible, but ornamental. I too bought such a plant, thinking I could use it for curry, but I was wrong. > >Thanks, >Bob Strauss >strauss@unca.edu > -- Margaret Redding ab555@freenet.carleton. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!news.oc.com!utacfd.uta.edu!trsvax!trsvax!rpo Thu May 27 00:37:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17609 of rec.gardens From: rpo@trsvax.tandy.com Date: 24 May 93 15:50 CDT Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Compost pile question Message-ID: <4600001@trsvax> Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!news.oc.com!utacfd.uta.edu!trsvax!trsvax!rpo Nf-ID: #R:arccs1.fed.FRB.GOV:16588:trsvax:4600001:000:1006 Nf-From: trsvax.tandy.com!rpo May 24 15:50:00 1993 References: <16588@arccs1.fed.FRB.GOV> Lines: 23 Typically, a grass-clipping-only compost pile takes several months before it's 'done.' You can speed this up slightly by including high-carbon materials such as wood ash (not charcoal), leaves, rough brush, sawdust, or similar. Since grass is a high-nitrogen material, you should avoid commercial 'Compost Starter' since they are typically a nitrogen supplement. If you do add this, you end up with a pretty smelly compost pile. (I found this out the hard way. :^< ) Especially with grass, it is important that you 'turn' the pile every 2 or 3 days to aerate the system. Also, water the pile at the same time you turn it (unless it rains). You want the pile to be wet enough to support the biological processes going on inside, but not so wet as to 'drown' the pile (soaking it too much destroys any air pockets and compresses the pile). Most of this info is from memory from a book on composting...I have neither title nor author handy, but can post the info from the house if you want. Paul Opitz From samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!alberta!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu May 27 00:37:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17610 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!alberta!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: anemones winter hardy? Message-ID: <1993May24.195052.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 24 May 93 19:50:52 MDT References: <1993May10.171353.27881@hemlock.cray.com> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 13 In article <1993May10.171353.27881@hemlock.cray.com>, jill@cray.com (Jill McAllister) writes: > Last summer I threw some anemone corms (right word?) into the ground fairly > late and then didn't keep them weeded. A bunch came up, but only one actually > bloomed. Then I was too lazy to dig them up, and we're in zone 4. Well, > one has come up this year. (It's in the right location to possibly be the > one which bloomed.) Why did one over-winter? Are they marginally hardy in > Minnesota, or do I have a mutant plant on my hands? Well, there are a bunch of different kinds of anemones. Several are native perennials here in Alberta (zone 2 and 3). Many of the standard commercial varieties aren't hardy here though, and may well be marginally hardy in your zone 4 (well, if only one survived I guess I'd call them "not hardy"). From samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!alberta!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu May 27 00:37:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17611 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!alberta!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Perennial Seedling Question Message-ID: <1993May24.200351.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 24 May 93 20:03:51 MDT References: Distribution: world Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 37 In article , dwilbert@bbn.com (Deborah Wilbert) writes: > > I would like to know what to do with some perennial seedlings I > started in March from seeds I saved from last year. > > I have some Pasque flowers, many lupines, a few bittersweet, and a few > MacIntosh apple seedlings, all started in March. They are all still > quite small. When they get big enough to transplant, should I plant > them in the garden, or should I put them in pots and let them winter > indoors or in the garage? I'd like to maximize their chances of > surviving. Pasque flowers? (i.e. prairie crocus)? Congratulations, they are quite difficult to start from seed. Don't know with authority, but I would plant them out this summer if they look a respectible size. Wintering things in the garage is pretty risky - the whole pot will freeze severely instead of a gentler freeze under a snow cover outside (Don't know where you're writing from...your climate may not have this problem.) The temperature cycles in a garage (freeze/thaw) are a lot tougher than a steady freeze too. Lupines can be planted out the first year. Started in March they should bloom around August, although some may not bloom the first year. They will come back the next year. Mine (started as seedlings in March a couple years ago) start growing in the garden in early spring, frosts don't faze them. Don't know about bittersweet. Apples don't reproduce true to seed so don't expect to get a true Macintosh (the original Mac was started in Ontario in the 1800's from a seed of some other variety). Coniferous (needle) trees can often be grown through the first winter without a rest period, but I don't know if this can be done for temperate deciduous trees like apples.... they may drop their leaves in the fall and never get them again unless they get a cool rest period. Maybe you should plant them in a temporary location in the garden for a few years. From samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!alberta!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu May 27 00:37:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17612 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!alberta!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flowering chives Message-ID: <1993May24.201410.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 24 May 93 20:14:10 MDT References: <1tr34rINNgce@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> Distribution: world Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 18 In article <1tr34rINNgce@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu>, Laura Uerling writes: > I have some chives in my garden that are growing like crazy and > producing lots of purple flowers. I know it's generally not a good idea > to let herbs go to seed, but at what point should I cut off the > flower/seed head? Now? When they start producing seeds? And what will > happen if I don't? > > I suppose that I could just chop 'em off now to be safe, but there's not > much color in my garden yet, and the purple flowers are rather pretty. > :-) > Laura Chives are vigorous enough that flowering won't diminish the growth of the plant. I left mine to go to seed last year, now I have a million unwanted chive plants springing up everywhere around the main plant. So you might want to consider removing the heads when the flowering is over. Personally, I find chives so mild tasting....read BLAND... that I ONLY grow them for the flower display. From samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!alberta!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu May 27 00:37:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17613 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!alberta!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Questions on Venus Flytrap Message-ID: <1993May24.204437.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 24 May 93 20:44:37 MDT References: <1993May4.125425.7927@crosfield.co.uk> <1993May4.191411.19388@bnr.ca> <1993May11.101439.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> <1993May11.191546.1730@bnr.ca> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 41 In article <1993May11.191546.1730@bnr.ca>, rthacker@bnr.ca (Robert Thacker) writes: > In article <1993May11.101439.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca writes: >>In article <1993May4.191411.19388@bnr.ca>, rthacker@bnr.ca (Robert Thacker) writes: >>> >>> Trap sizes >>> seem largest in spring: I've had them up to 35mm long. >>> >>> -- Rob. >> >>Well, just for some sibling rivalry, I've had traps up to 39 mm. >>Venus fly trap growing contest, bro' ?????????? >>(Maybe I'll teach you how to grow them properly sometime.... ;-) >> >>Don > ald > > Oops, sorry, I left off the zero at the end of "35". > I usually feed the VFTs mice, squirrels, small dogs. > I'm trying to grow a trap about 6' 1.5" long. > Hmmm.... what to feed it? :-0 > > -- Rob. ert Okay, so I'll have to remember to always walk on my tiptoes around your place so I won't fit. Actually I've been working on some large traps myself, but I'm sure that I could NEVER get one big enough to eat a person. Well, forget about that.....you should come out and visit sometime, we've got this nice new bed that we've been saving just for you. It's really comfortable, sort of like a hammock but has trap hairs...oops, I mean has bars to help keep you in bed, and inside it has several trigger hairs...oops, I mean there are a few bristly handles inside to help you lie in the correct position. It's so comfortable, I can promise you that you'll never go back to any other bed. Really. P.S. Only buy a one-way ticket. I'll explain later. Don From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Thu May 27 00:37:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17614 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Flowering Chives Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 04:55:50 GMT Message-ID: <24660@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 25 In response to Laura Uerling:lju1@cornell.edu >I have some chives in my garden that are growing like crazy and >producing lots of purple flowers. I know it's generally not a good idea >to let herbs go to seed, but at what point should I cut off the >flower/seed head? Now? When they start producing seeds? And what will >happen if I don't? >I suppose that I could just chop 'em off now to be safe, but there's not >much color in my garden yet, and the purple flowers are rather pretty. This is an interesting question. I have one herb book (only one) which says that if you leave the flowers on it weakens the plant. I have left the flowers on plants a number of times just because they are so pretty, and I haven't really noticed that my plants became significantly weaker. I have noticed that the flower stalks are tougher (too tough to be terrific in the kitchen) and that the plants which produce flowers tend to put their energies into producing flowers and seeds rather than into producing succulent new leaves. I think that the best plan is to have several chive clumps and to cut one or two for the kitchen and let the other(s) flower for show. It is really easy to end up with lots of chive clumps, because they are so easy to divide. (Best time is spring or fall). Don't worry about the chive clump dying if you let it flower and go to seed. It won't. -Moira Carlson From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!engage.sps.mot.com!fmbutt Thu May 27 00:37:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17615 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!engage.sps.mot.com!fmbutt From: fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq M. Butt) Subject: Re: Ar-r-r-rgh! (pond story) Message-ID: Sender: news@oakhill.sps.mot.com Nntp-Posting-Host: engage Organization: Motorola RISC Software, Austin, TX References: <120636@bu.edu> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 05:13:54 GMT Lines: 56 In article <120636@bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >I'm depressed and need sympathy from soneone who will grasp the situation! > >Saturday my husband and I went to a local discount pet store and got several\ >fish for our little pond -- two golden goldfish, one grey/green "fish color" >goldfish, one spotted goldfish -- and two koi: one "cremesicle" with golden >head and tail and a creme color stripe down the sides, top to bottom, and >one spotted with black and white on the predominantly orange body. We >released them around six pm. Cost $28+, $17 of that for the koi. > >Sunday morning I went to a flea market and returned a bit before noon. I >went out to say hello to the fish. GONE! Not a fin, not a scale, absolutely >no fish! Like they grew wings and flew away! From a landlocked totally >artificial pond. > >The suspects are a. bratty preschool neighbor kids seen with butterfly nets -- >there were two who tried to catch my fish last year, and I caught THEM instead. >(I can't imagine parents seeing a collection of 5" obviously not wild fish >and letting it go unchallenged, though.) or b. raccoon. (This seems the more >likely suspect since one was found dead a quarter mile away at the entrance >to the housing development Sunday morning. Maybe we gave it it's last (gourmet) >meal!) > >In any case, I spent almost $30 for rather pretty fish and didn't even get to >keep them 24 hours! so Ar-r-r-rgh!!! > >(Anti-theft solutions under consideration -- all I can think of is net or >mesh slightly under the water surface, thus spoiling the "view" and hampering >my water lilies.) > >At least this year the marauders, whatever kind they were, didn't spoil the >rest of the pond like last year. (Last year the aforementioned brats knocked >over all the plant pots and set back the lilies so they never bloomed. Later >in the year a visiting bird, egret seen elsewhere suspected, ate several >of that collection of fish and also knocked voer the pots.) Ponds are SO much >fun sometimes!! The $300 chain-link fence around most of the yard didn't >help much this time. What to do what to do! (As the cheapskate/bargain >gardener of the net, this loss of investment (and entertainment/mosquito >control) really upsets me!) > >Advice, anybody!? > >Sherry > > Hungry Pirhanas? sorry, couldn't resist :-) fmb -- Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightest relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Thu May 27 00:37:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17616 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: zucchini problem Message-ID: <1993May25.133701.13959@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 13:37:01 GMT Lines: 40 In article: <1trsf3$77g@morrow.stanford.edu> dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) asks: > >My zucchini (sp?) plants are fruiting, but before they >get big enough to pick, they turn yellow and shrivel up. It >seems to happen first at the blossom end and move toward the stem. > >There is no mold or anything on them, and there are a few >(related?) gnaw marks. > >Is this insect damage? fungus? Nutrient deficiency (I haven't fertilized >them at all). By the way, the rest of the plant looks quite >healthy. > >Thanks for any help. > >Dawn This happens if the little zucchinis don't get fertilized. If you have both male (no tiny zucchini under the flower) and female (yes tiny zucchini under the flower) flowers then probably the pollen is not getting from the male to the female flowers because you have no bees, or your bees are more interested in something else which is flowering nearby. You will have to become the matchmaker for your zucchinis. To do this, break off one of the male flowers. Rub its pollen onto the female flowers until there is no more pollen, then pick another male flower, etc., until you've pollenated all the female flowers. Wait 2 or 3 days and pick your zucchinis. Watch out! because if you miss a zucchini it will grow very fast and become a baseball bat while your back is turned. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Thu May 27 00:37:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17617 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: Should I thin the melons? Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: <1tqmerINN25j@ome.sps.mot.com> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 13:45:45 GMT Lines: 45 In <1tqmerINN25j@ome.sps.mot.com> wcl@risc.sps.mot.com (Wayne Long) writes: >I'm a first-time melon grower so please excuse the >following ignorance and help me do the best thing: >I got a bit over-zealous and planted my melons too >close together (thought it was necessary due to >our crappy soil). I planted honeydew, cantelope, >& watermelon in 20' rows, rows spaced 1.5' apart >and melons spaced 4" apart. Well, they ALL survived >and are doing wonderfully, so well in fact, that the >plot is just one mass of melon leaves and vines, all >climbing over each other. >If I just let them alone, will this mass of vines >produce good fruit, or will they strangle each other? >Do the melons themselves have to be exposed to the >sunlight or is it ok to let them remain buried under >the mass of leaves? What does your experience show? I spaced my watermelon to 2' apart in the rows and 8' between rows and it still got to the point where it was impossible to walk in the patch without crushing vines/fruit. I get the impression that some of the vines would run 15' if you let them. So I think thinning is probably worthwhile and may increase fruit size. I think fertilizing is the key to sweetness from what I've read, and I can't think of a reason the fruit needs sun exposure. Some of mine were definitely covered by leaves (but then I don't remember whether they were better or worse than the exposed ones). My major problem last year was excessive moisture. The result was a lot of "empty heart" melons. Apparently too little moisture can give the same result. Try to avoid this, because although you might get big healthy looking melons on the outside, if they get hollow heart like many of mine, they are completely useless -- just a semi-dry lining of meat under the rind. Negatives aside, I have yet to taste a store melon that came close to the quality of a homegrown. Best of luck. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.nd.edu!nd.edu!shulaw Thu May 27 00:37:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17618 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.nd.edu!nd.edu!shulaw From: shulaw@nd.edu Subject: When to transplant tulips-daffodils etc. Message-ID: Sender: news@news.nd.edu (USENET News System) Organization: University of Notre Dame Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 13:45:43 GMT Lines: 5 When is the right time to transplant tulips, daffodils, hyacinths etc? I'd like to put some annuals where the perennials are but I don't want to hurt the bulbs by moving them to early. Thanks!! Janet.i.shulaw.1@nd.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!fs!nntp_server!empros.com!joannek Thu May 27 00:37:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17619 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!fs!nntp_server!empros.com!joannek From: joannek@empros.com (Joanne Kube-Harderwijk) Subject: Re: anemones winter hardy? Sender: news@empros.com (ems-news) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 13:48:42 GMT Distribution: usa Reply-To: joannek@empros.com References: <1993May10.171353.27881@hemlock.cray.com> <1993May24.195052.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Nntp-Posting-Host: northstar.empros.com Organization: Empros Power Systems Control, a division of Siemens EA Lines: 34 In article <1993May24.195052.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca>, thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca writes: |> In article <1993May10.171353.27881@hemlock.cray.com>, jill@cray.com (Jill McAllister) writes: |> > Last summer I threw some anemone corms (right word?) into the ground fairly |> > late and then didn't keep them weeded. A bunch came up, but only one actually |> > bloomed. Then I was too lazy to dig them up, and we're in zone 4. Well, |> > one has come up this year. (It's in the right location to possibly be the |> > one which bloomed.) Why did one over-winter? Are they marginally hardy in |> > Minnesota, or do I have a mutant plant on my hands? |> |> Well, there are a bunch of different kinds of anemones. Several are |> native perennials here in Alberta (zone 2 and 3). Many of the standard |> commercial varieties aren't hardy here though, and may well be |> marginally hardy in your zone 4 (well, if only one survived I guess |> I'd call them "not hardy"). No, they are not marginally hardy in Minnesota, they are not hardy in Minnesota. (Sometimes I think very little is hardy here.) Yes there are some varieties that are hardy here but the double ones are not. Last year we had a lot of snow cover and that may have sheltered them some. I have some things that are not hardy here (I have tried to not give up hope, I'm not native here either :-)but are planted next to the house in a sheltered spot and they usually make it through the winter. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ | | Joanne Kube-Harderwijk Empros Systems International | email - joannek@empros.com 2300 Berkshire Ln | Phone - (612) 553-4765 Plymouth, Mn. 55441-3694 | A Division of Siemens Energy and Automation | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ | I am not a spokeman for my employer. | "I know nothing, nothing..." - Sargeant Schultz ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Thu May 27 00:37:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17620 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Re: Ar-r-r-rgh! (pond story) Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <120636@bu.edu> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 13:41:56 GMT Lines: 6 Regarding the disappearing goldfish, last year an egret discovered the gourmet delights of suburbia, cleaning out numerous fishponds around Columbus, Ohio. (On the other hand, if it is neighborhood children, maybe fill the pond up with beer. Gets rid of slugs too.) Dave Daulton From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Thu May 27 00:37:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17621 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: Compost pile question Message-ID: <1993May25.142343.15729@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Distribution: na Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 14:23:43 GMT Lines: 36 In article: <16588@arccs1.fed.FRB.GOV> m1awe00@fed.frb.gov (Alan W. Estes) asks: >How long does it take before the clippings can be worked into the ground? >Are there any chemicals which can speed up the composting process? How >should I be tending to the compost pile to ensure that maximum composting >is occuring, as opposed to drying out dead grass? > >Thanks for any help. >Alan Estes >m1awe00@fed.frb.gov I have read the other answers to your question by no one has yet mentioned that you can dig your clippings in immediately. As they are high in nitrogen they will not cause a nitrogen drain on you soil, and they decompose very fast in the soil. Many of us use them to balance the high carbon of dry leaves, so we do put them in the compost, but htere is no reason to do so if all you have is grass. In addition, you can spread them around your plants as mulch. Don't add more than a couple of inches of green, wet grass clippings at a time so you don't start a mini compost heap around your plants. Other than that, grass clippings dry out fairly quickly and make an attractive (to my eye) mulch. This mulch will decompose fairly quickly so I just keep adding to it over the summer. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!pipex!uknet!bradford.ac.uk!N.W.R.Ayres Thu May 27 00:37:24 EDT 1993 Article: 17622 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!pipex!uknet!bradford.ac.uk!N.W.R.Ayres From: N.W.R.Ayres@bradford.ac.uk (NWR AYRES) Subject: Re: Butterflies Message-ID: <1993May25.140011.26788@bradford.ac.uk> Lines: 41 Organization: University of Bradford, UK X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] References: <2250@giga.slc.paramax.com> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 14:00:11 GMT Eileen Noel (noel@advtech.slc.paramax.com) wrote: : Hi all ... : Our city has a problem with gypsy moths, which "they" are : attempting to control with bacillus thurengiensis (excuse my : spelling). As a result of this process I have seen *no* : butterflies in my garden this spring. I miss these "flying : flowers" desperately and was wondering if there is a way : to "plant" chrysalises, just as we sometimes "plant" praying : mantis eggs. Anyone have ideas as to sources, possibilities, : etc.? : Thanks in advance, : Eileen Noel Eileen, When will "they" learn from Silent Spring. Here we have an example of the use of a biocide used indiscriminately. It dosn't take a chemical biocide to create havoc to others detriment. You must be absolutely livid. Rachel Carson made all this plain 20-30 years ago. Why don't you send "them" a copy - you may stop it happening again. It may be worth keeping a look out to see what pests have been increasing in numbers and trying to link these increases with the spraying of this "natural" biocide. This is not a rare occurance, and could be used as an argument for stopping the spraying. Are there any regular wildlife surveys done in you area to see if any "benefical" organisms have been affected (apart from the butterflys/moths) by the removal of their food source? It seems reasonable that any butterflys that you "plant" will go their own way, and so for you to enjoy any then the spraying has to stop. What do these moths do anyway that is so bad, and that hasn't been aggrevated by people changing habitats/ introducing foreign organisms? all the best nick From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!ns1.cc.lehigh.edu!dw00 Thu May 27 00:37:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17623 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!ns1.cc.lehigh.edu!dw00 From: dw00@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (DIANA WALSH) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Q: BUTTERFLY BOX - SUGGESTIONS? Message-ID: <1993May25.142032.60786@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> Date: 25 May 93 14:20:32 GMT Organization: Lehigh University Lines: 17 A friend gave me her butterfly box, with a wish of better luck than he had.... seemed all she could attract was gypsy moths. I have recently finished the butterfly/hummingbird garden, and would appreciate any helpful hints, suggestions, or experiences from other gardeners. THANKS! -- ______________ Diana Walsh DW00@LEHIGH.EDU ____________ <<<_________ Structural Stability Research Council _________>>> <<<________ Lehigh University _________>>> Bethlehem, PA USA From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg Thu May 27 00:37:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17624 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg From: samg@col.hp.com (Sam Gaylord) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How do I kill weeds Date: 25 May 1993 20:11:22 GMT Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division Lines: 29 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1ttuhaINNg8k@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: sushi12.cs.itc.hp.com I've used ROUNDUP (c) and it's great, but it's "NON-SELECTIVE"!!! (read kills everything). I'm talking about the commercial strength stuff, not the ready to use sprayer. I bought a quart of the stuff about 4 years ago for $34. You mix it 100:1 with water, and can add a little dish detergent so it sticks to the leaves better. You spray it on the leaves, when it's not going to rain for a while. The plant absorbs the stuff and it takes about 2-3 weeks for the plants to die down. My wife's cousin suggested it. He's a professional farmer who grows veggies for his road side stand. He said that they spray it on the field after the seeds are planted and before they germinate, preferably a day or two before the first break through the soil. Roundup (c) must contact the leaves to work, so being in or on the soil doesn't do anything. It degrades in a day or two. I use it a couple times a year at the base of my garden fence. If you use it on a calm day from a air pressure sprayer, you can control it very well, the grass 2-3 inches from the fence lives on, the weeds I spray die in a couple of weeks. Just to warn you... it works slow. The first time I used it, nothing happened for the first week and a half and I began thinking I was ripped off. After two weeks, the weeds started to wilt a little, and by the third week, they were brown and gone. samg +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ | Sam Gaylord Colorado Springs ITC e-mail Support Team | | e-mail: samg@cs.itc.hp.com HPDesk: Sam Gaylord/HP0800 | | Telnet: 1-590-2907 / AT&T: (719) 590-2907 / Fax: (719) 590-3596 | +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!postman+ Thu May 27 00:37:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17625 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!postman+ From: Dino_P._Chiesa@transarc.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flowering chives Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 13:29:04 -0400 Organization: Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 8 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <1tr34rINNgce@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: andrew.cmu.edu In-Reply-To: <1tr34rINNgce@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> Just the other night, I had a nice pesto sauce which was garnished with chives flowers. Adds color and flavor. Keep them on the plants until you use them. -Dino From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!nstassen Thu May 27 00:37:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17626 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!nstassen From: nstassen@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Nicki A Stassen Lantz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Raising the pH quickly Date: 25 May 1993 18:24:15 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 16 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1tto8f$808@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: top.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Hello everyone, once more I'm asking advice of all you knowledgeable people out there: The soil pH in my raised bed garden (new for 3 weeks) is 5.4. Our rainwater ranges from 4-5.5. The pH seems too low for most vegetables to do well. I added lime a week ago- how quickly will it raise the pH? Is there another faster acting aditive I can try? How can I tell if the pH is too low- is a yellowish cast over all leaves, no wilting a sign? The soil pH was tested at an environmental lab 4-5 times for an average, so I'm pretty sure the numbers are reliable. I'd appreciate hearing any advice, Thanks, N A Stassen Lantz The Ohio State University, Columbus, OH From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!icd.ab.com!icd.ab.com!kdw Thu May 27 00:37:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17627 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!icd.ab.com!icd.ab.com!kdw From: kdw@icd.ab.com (Ken Whitehead) Subject: Keeping deer, etc. away from my fruit trees. Message-ID: <1993May25.182104.16506@icd.ab.com> Sender: kdw@icd.ab.com (Kenneth D. Whitehead) Nntp-Posting-Host: sora.icd.ab.com Organization: Speaking strictly on my own behalf... Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 18:21:04 GMT Lines: 25 Last week I planted 2 sets of dwarf apple trees on some wooded property I own in an adjacent state. In a few years, these should start producing pretty well, if I can keep them alive until then. The problem is keeping the critters from killing them until they're old enough to bear fruit. The guy at the nursery told me about a spray you can use to keep the deer away, but you have to re-apply it after every 3 rainstorms; this property is in a different state from where I live, so the constant re-application would be impossible. I don't care if the animals eat the fruit; that's part of the reason I'm putting them in (I intend to build a retirement home there someday, so I'll eat them too) but in the mean time, I have to keep the trees alive. Can anybody give me any good suggestions on how to protect the trees? I'm considering putting chicken wire around them for the first few years. Does anybody have a better suggestion? Any advice is greatly appreciated. E-mail, please, I'm not a regular. If I get enough responses (and with the kind permission of the advisors) I'll post a summary. Thanks, Ken Whitehead From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm Thu May 27 00:37:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17628 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm From: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (SSGM) Subject: Re: Maple Tree repair Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC References: <1993May25.163108.13332@bmers95.bnr.ca> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 18:32:57 GMT Lines: 27 In article <1993May25.163108.13332@bmers95.bnr.ca>, mmckenna@bnr.ca (Michael McKenna) writes: |> We have just moved to a new house that has 80 year old maple trees lining the |> driveway. They look like they are on their last legs however. I spent the last |> weekend cutting and knocking off dead branches. Their are a lot of places where |> the wood has rooted, especially in the Y portions of the tree where the water |> easily collects. The only reading I have done on the subject says to cut out all |> the rotten stuff and fill it with something (can't remember what) - I have heard |> of using cement. Has anyone done this kind of work before? What did you fill the |> hole with? Where do you stop with the pruning; in some cases you might have a 20 |> inch branch that is hollow on one side but living on the other - do you just cut |> the whole thing off? Any recommendations would be appreciated. |> |> Thanks, |> Mike McKenna When I moved into our house the 60+ year old split-crotched maple was suffering similarly. I had an arborist prune and cable the tree. There was a huge rotten section 1 ft wide by 4 ft long that had been filled in, but appeared to be infested. he suggested removing whatever was filling it in by hand and leave it open. I scraped out large amounts of rotten wood from the inside along with various crawlies (ants, beetles, etc). That was seven years ago. The wound dried out and I have seen no signs of rot since. The tree's doing great. This is a long way of saying "clean out the wound but don't fill it up". Hope this helps. Tom Dugan ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!mbunix.mitre.org!vv Thu May 27 00:37:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17629 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!mbunix.mitre.org!vv From: vv@mbunix.mitre.org (Ventrone) Subject: How to get rid of "bloodroots" Message-ID: <1993May25.164235.6014@linus.mitre.org> Sender: news@linus.mitre.org (News Service) Nntp-Posting-Host: mbunix.mitre.org Organization: The MITRE Corp., Bedford, Ma. Distribution: usa Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 16:42:35 GMT Lines: 22 The property around my house is covered about 2/3s by woods, and much of the ground is quite wet. As soon as you enter the woodsy areas, the ground is covered by a weed I always referred to as "bloodroot". I don't know the latin name but I can describe them: they start growing about the beginning of May, to a hight of about 3 feet, a single slender stem that is very fleshy and wet (almost translucent). The leaves cluster at the top, and are oval with serrated edges. The very bottom of the plant is red, and the root are very shallow and also red (hence the nickname I've always used.) They are easy to pull out, but difficult to break because the stems are very fibrous. I wish to be rid of these things, but don't want to harm the ferns and Jack-in-the-Pulpits that they share the ground with. Any suggestions from netland? Thanks much. -- Vince Ventrone The MITRE Corporation "...In my opinion, there's nothing Bedford, MA 01730 in this world beats a '52 Vincent vav@mitre.org and a redheaded girl." -- Richard Thompson From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland Thu May 27 00:37:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17630 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland From: breland@mcc.com (Mark A. Breland) Subject: Re: Squash Blossom-end Rot, Was: zucchini prob Message-ID: Sender: news@mcc.com Reply-To: breland@mcc.com Organization: MCC References: Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 19:04:04 GMT Lines: 26 In article rCC@hawnews.watson.ibm.com, os2user@brdiller.houston.ibm.com (Barry Diller) writes: > >I am losing a lot of my yellow (non-crookneck) squash to some sort of >blossom-end rot. The end of some of my baby squash gets soft and then rapidly >turns white and mushy. At first, I thought that they were rotting due to >contact with the damp ground (we've had a lot of rain this spring), but I've >now seen this condition happen to squash that are an inch or more above the >ground. > >Is this a pollination problem as well, or is it (as I suspect) some sort of >nutrient deficiency? BTW, I am getting a lot of good squash from my plants, >but I'd have so much more if I could stop this rot. No nutrient deficiency...just fungus. The heavy rains of late are quite conducive growing conditions for fungus activity. Buy a reputable (Ortho) brand fungicidal concentrate, mix according to bottle directions, and spray once every 7 to 10 days. The baby squash not yet infested will grow to full maturity. Fungus attacks are not limited to those fruit contacting the ground. --- Mark A. Breland - Microelectronics and Computer Technology Corporation (MCC) Ada Fault Tolerance | voice: (512) 338-3509 3500 West Balcones Center Drive | FAX: (512) 338-3900 Austin, Texas 78759-6509 USA | internet: breland@mcc.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!compuserve.com!71174.2735 Thu May 27 00:37:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17631 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!compuserve.com!71174.2735 From: 71174.2735@CompuServe.COM (Rick Harrison) Subject: re: radish sans bulb Message-ID: <930525190124_71174.2735_DHQ48-1@CompuServe.COM> Date: 25 May 93 15:01:24 EDT X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA05696; Tue, 25 May 93 12:08:21 -0700 X-Received: by inet-gw-2.pa.dec.com; id AA27741; Tue, 25 May 93 12:08:15 -0700 X-Received: by ihb.compuserve.com (5.65/5.930129sam) id AA20769; Tue, 25 May 93 15:08:13 -0400 X-To: Lines: 23 Libby Goldstein (libby@igc.apc.org) writes that radishes 'absolutely positively do not need to be planted at 4 times their diameter' or words to that effect. I too used to have a problem with radish plants not making bulbs. In the spring of 1990 and again in 1991, I conducted an experiment. In one garden bed I planted rows of radish seeds at different depths. They got the same amount of sun, water, and were in a bed of well-mixed homogenous soil, so planting depth was the only variable. Seeds planted at 3 to 4 times their diameter were more likely to produce bulbs than those planted at more shallow depths. Libby, you seem to be asserting that seed planting depth has no effect on radish bulb production. Do you have any evidence or experience to back up your absolute statement, or is your assertion completely baseless? ================================================================== Rick Harrison bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org / 71174.2735@compuserve.com From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!compuserve.com!71174.2735 Thu May 27 00:37:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17632 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!compuserve.com!71174.2735 From: 71174.2735@CompuServe.COM (Rick Harrison) Subject: re: need Acacia farnesiana source Message-ID: <930525190227_71174.2735_DHQ48-2@CompuServe.COM> Date: 25 May 93 15:02:27 EDT X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA05869; Tue, 25 May 93 12:13:23 -0700 X-Received: by inet-gw-2.pa.dec.com; id AA28131; Tue, 25 May 93 12:13:19 -0700 X-Received: by ihc.compuserve.com (5.65/5.930129sam) id AA01281; Tue, 25 May 93 15:13:16 -0400 X-To: Lines: 27 Just a follow-up on my search for Acacia farnesiana seeds; I've found two mail-order sources. Brudy's Exotics P O Box 820874 Houston TX 77282-0874 Their catalog description reads as follows: "Perfume acacia. Many gardeners have never seen Acacia of any kind, even though there are scores of species. They are lovely, and this one produces a delightful fragrance as well. Potted specimens become more and more dense as they are pruned, and the flowers, also used as a perfume base, become more numerous. As with all Acacias this one is tolerant of hot, dry sites, but doesn't need such rigorous situations to prosper." If you want to buy the seeds by the ounce or by the pound, try Carter Seeds, 475 Mar Vista Drive, Vista CA 92083. Thanks to Jerry Young for passing along the latter source. ================================================================== Rick Harrison bbs-hrick@jwt.oau.org / 71174.2735@compuserve.com From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!hanuman!kunda Thu May 27 00:37:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17633 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!decwrl!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!hanuman!kunda From: kunda@hanuman.Eng.Sun.COM (Ramachandra P. Kunda) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: How do I kill weeds Date: 25 May 1993 19:03:30 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: Reply-To: kunda@hanuman.Eng.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: hanuman I would like to find out all organic and inorganic way to get rid of the weeds. Also, how long do the weed killers last in the soil? Thanks, ram From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!think.com!linus!linus.mitre.org!mbunix.mitre.org!vv Thu May 27 00:37:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17634 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!think.com!linus!linus.mitre.org!mbunix.mitre.org!vv From: vv@mbunix.mitre.org (Ventrone) Subject: Do BIG white pine trees topple easily? Message-ID: <1993May25.164815.6419@linus.mitre.org> Sender: news@linus.mitre.org (News Service) Nntp-Posting-Host: mbunix.mitre.org Organization: The MITRE Corp., Bedford, Ma. Distribution: usa Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 16:48:15 GMT Lines: 19 I have a white pine tree in front of my house which is at least 60 feet tall and 3 1/2 feet in diameter. Also, the trunk forks about 10 feet from the ground, and one of the forks divides again about 15 feet farther up. Every time there is a high wind I think about that tree. I have heard that white pines have shallow root systems, and that forks in the trunk are areas that can turn into cavities. Also, the soil is quite sandy. Should I be concerned about this tree toppling onto my house someday? Or possibly splitting where the trunk forks? It is a great tree--is there anything I can do to reduce any risk? Thanks. -- Vince Ventrone The MITRE Corporation "...In my opinion, there's nothing Bedford, MA 01730 in this world beats a '52 Vincent vav@mitre.org and a redheaded girl." -- Richard Thompson From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!monsanto.com!bb1t.monsanto.com!rghoff Thu May 27 00:37:40 EDT 1993 Article: 17635 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!monsanto.com!bb1t.monsanto.com!rghoff From: rghoff@bb1t.monsanto.com Subject: Re: Ar-r-r-rgh! (pond story) Message-ID: <1993May25.144419.1@bb1t.monsanto.com> Lines: 26 Sender: news@tin.monsanto.com (USENET News System) Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO References: <120636@bu.edu> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 20:44:19 GMT In article , snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) writes: > In article <120636@bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >>I'm depressed and need sympathy from soneone who will grasp the situation! >> >>Saturday my husband and I went to a local discount pet store and got several\ [Koi story deleted] Before I did anything else, I'd try to determine the cause of the fish disapearance. Get some more cheap fish (feeder goldfish or something) and get the soil around the pond really soaked (or spread sand, paper or something) and try to get some evidence of footprints (pawprints) when the next batch of fish disapear. Then you'll have some idea what you're up against. If it's kids, call the police and go have a visit with the parents (take along your fish receipt if you still have it and get your money back). If it's a coon or someother animal, try feeding it something else. Good luck. Rick Hoffman From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!cmcl2!netnews!jpmgate!tcpg02!vanadium!mmanago Thu May 27 00:37:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17636 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!cmcl2!netnews!jpmgate!tcpg02!vanadium!mmanago From: mmanago@vanadium.ny.jpmorgan.com (Maria) Subject: Re: uses for cat litter? Message-ID: <1993May25.190400.24874@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com> Summary: Mild illness??? Keywords: cats Sender: news@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com (USENET News System) Reply-To: mmanago@vanadium.ny.jpmorgan.com Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. References: <1993May24.162956.28806@walter.cray.com> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 19:04:00 GMT Lines: 19 In article 28806@walter.cray.com, gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: |> I don't think it is a good idea. Cat feces (feces in general) can be a source of various worms and parasites which can infect you. Also feces can harbor fungi which, when inhaled, cause mild illness in most people but can also cause serious birth defects in pregnant women. I believe the disease is called toxoplasmosis I have two cats and I am really tempted to use this wonderful organic stuff in the garden but it always goes out in the trash. George, When you say mild illness what exactly do you mean? I have a cat and I was sick so much last winter and sometimes over the summer I get sick. do you mean colds or flu like symtoms? Any info would help, thanks. Maria From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!news.dell.com!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland Thu May 27 00:37:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17637 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!news.dell.com!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland From: breland@mcc.com (Mark A. Breland) Subject: Re: zucchini problem Message-ID: Sender: news@mcc.com Reply-To: breland@mcc.com Organization: MCC References: <1993May25.092935.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 19:08:11 GMT Lines: 25 In article 1@rhea.arc.ab.ca, thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca () writes: > >Be patient! It sounds like only the female flowers are blooming (they >generally start first - they have small zucchinis on them when they >bloom). The male flowers usually start a week or two after the female >blossoms - the male flowers do not have the small zucchinis on their >base. The male flowers have the pollen, the female flowers have the >embryo, and, well, you know how it goes.... The bees will complete >the process, though it may take them another week or two to find the >male flowers (which they like because they have the pollen). They >will then move it to the female flowers and deposit it on the pistils >in a fruitless search for more pollen. You can cheat and fertilize >them yourself, but this is usually not as effective. If the female ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Bzzzzzt! Incorrect answer. I manually pollinate every chance I get, regardless of bee activity/inactivity, to guarantee pollination and increase my yield. And I definitely DO increase my yield! (Anybody wanna a couple of bushels of squash?...please?) --- Mark A. Breland - Microelectronics and Computer Technology Corporation (MCC) Ada Fault Tolerance | voice: (512) 338-3509 3500 West Balcones Center Drive | FAX: (512) 338-3900 Austin, Texas 78759-6509 USA | internet: breland@mcc.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Thu May 27 00:37:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17638 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Butterflies Message-ID: <1993May25.150955.13324@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 25 May 93 15:09:55 -0600 References: <2250@giga.slc.paramax.com> <1993May25.140011.26788@bradford.ac.uk> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 30 In article <1993May25.140011.26788@bradford.ac.uk>, N.W.R.Ayres@bradford.ac.uk (NWR AYRES) writes: > Eileen Noel (noel@advtech.slc.paramax.com) wrote: > : Our city has a problem with gypsy moths, which "they" are > : attempting to control with bacillus thurengiensis (excuse my > : spelling). As a result of this process I have seen *no* > : butterflies in my garden this spring. I miss these "flying > : flowers" desperately and was wondering if there is a way > : to "plant" chrysalises, just as we sometimes "plant" praying > : mantis eggs. Anyone have ideas as to sources, possibilities, > : etc.? > > When will "they" learn from Silent Spring. Here we have an example > of the use of a biocide used indiscriminately. It dosn't take a chemical > biocide to create havoc to others detriment. You must be absolutely > livid. Rachel Carson made all this plain 20-30 years ago. Why don't you > send "them" a copy - you may stop it happening again. It may be worth AMEN!!! Just because something is "natural" or "organic" doesn't mean that it doesn't hit non-target organisms. And then you have a real mess on your hands. BTW, many pest species are now showing resistance to Bacillus thuringensis, and other microbial pesticides. When you repeatedly use ANY pesticide in an area, you can expect resistance to crop up... Moral of the story: a) if at all possible, leave natural systems alone b) if you HAVE to intervene, try to target the pest species ONLY c) if you have to repeat control measures, try to alternate control measures to help avoid selection for resistance. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams Thu May 27 00:37:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17639 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams) Subject: help: tasteless oregano Message-ID: <1993May25.114847.17743@hemlock.cray.com> Lines: 14 Nntp-Posting-Host: cherry10 Reply-To: dadams@cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Date: 25 May 93 11:48:46 CDT I planted oregano last year and it was great. It came back this year, but seems to have lost it's flavor! It has a slight minty smell, but when I taste it it is more like spinach or sorrel or something like that. Not oregano. What went wrong? --- --David C. Adams Statistician Cray Research Inc. dadams@cray.com -Sourdough and Ham- N0WWN Old Cowboys never die. They just smell that way! From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!emory!not-for-mail Thu May 27 00:37:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17640 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!emory!not-for-mail From: vicki@mathcs.emory.edu (Vicki Powers) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: uses for cat litter? Date: 25 May 1993 16:26:36 -0400 Organization: Emory University, Dept of Math and CS Lines: 31 Message-ID: <1ttvdsINN3vo@octaman.mathcs.emory.edu> References: <1993May24.162956.28806@walter.cray.com> <1993May25.190400.24874@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: octaman.mathcs.emory.edu Keywords: cats In article <1993May25.190400.24874@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com>, mmanago@vanadium.ny.jpmorgan.com (Maria) writes: > > In article 28806@walter.cray.com, gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: > |> > > Also feces can harbor fungi which, when inhaled, cause mild illness > in most people but can also cause serious birth defects > in pregnant women. I believe the disease is called toxoplasmosis > > George, > When you say mild illness what exactly do you mean? > I have a cat and I was sick so much last winter and sometimes over the summer I get sick. do you mean colds or flu like symtoms? Any info would help, thanks. Toxoplasmosis causes mild flu-like symptoms. It is a virus (I believe), in any case if you've had it once you will be immune. It is not a serious illness except if caught by a pregnant woman -- it can cause serious birth defects, especially during the first trimester. A few years ago I got ringworm on my arm (a fungus, not a worm!) My doctor guessed that I most likely caught it from the cats next door -- they like to poop in my garden. Ringworm isn't much fun and it was difficult to get rid of, so I would definitely not play around with cat poop. Vicki -- Vicki Powers | When a student reads in a math book that there are no Emory University | absolutes, suddenly every value he's been taught is Dept of Math and CS | destroyed. And the next thing you know, the student Atlanta, GA 30322 | turns to crime and drugs. - Mel Gabler From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Thu May 27 00:37:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17641 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How to get rid of "bloodroots" Message-ID: <1993May25.151439.13325@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 25 May 93 15:14:39 -0600 References: <1993May25.164235.6014@linus.mitre.org> Distribution: usa Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 18 In article <1993May25.164235.6014@linus.mitre.org>, vv@mbunix.mitre.org (Ventrone) writes: > The property around my house is covered about 2/3s by woods, and much of > the ground is quite wet. As soon as you enter the woodsy areas, the ground > is covered by a weed I always referred to as "bloodroot". I don't know the > latin name but I can describe them: they start growing about the beginning > of May, to a hight of about 3 feet, a single slender stem that is very > fleshy and wet (almost translucent). The leaves cluster at the top, and > are oval with serrated edges. The very bottom of the plant is red, and the > root are very shallow and also red (hence the nickname I've always used.) > They are easy to pull out, but difficult to break because the stems are very > fibrous. Sounds like a Pilea species. Common name of "Clearweed". They belong there, and if you remove them, you're likely to get an introduced weedy species that will give you MUCH more trouble. "Natura horor vacuuae", bare soil that isn't toxic isn't likely to be bare long. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu May 27 00:37:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17642 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Snake question Message-ID: <1993May25.135508.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 25 May 93 13:55:08 MDT References: <1993May11.f78bd@f8.n154.z1.fidonet.org> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 36 In article <1993May11.f78bd@f8.n154.z1.fidonet.org>, ac388@freenet.hsc.colorado.edu (Jack Decker) writes: > What with the recent discussion on garter snakes, I thought I'd ask this one: > > Today, our cat had been chasing chipmunks (she's pretty fat so they always get > away!) when we saw her running after something else. Not knowing what it was, > and not wanting her to actually catch a baby chipmunk or squirrel, we went to > see what it was, and much to our surprise, it was a rather large (3' to 4' > long) snake! This snake was slightly bluish in color and seemed to have a small > head in relation to the body. The cat had it cornered and it was reared back > in the typical "rattlesnake about to strike" pose but made no attempt to > actually strike, and had no rattles so we knew it wasn't a rattlesnake. We > turned the hose on, and first squirted the cat (to get her away) and then the > snake (to encourage it to move along). The snake moved down the side of our > home at a rather fast pace, occasionally trying to jump(!) up the wall, and > when it reached the corner of our home it took refuge in a pine tree! > > Yes, friends, snakes do climb trees! At least this one did. It started at the > lower branches and went from branch to branch moving quickly up the tree to a > height of about seven or eight feet, and it stayed there for at least an hour > until (I guess) it thought that the danger was past, at which point it left for > parts unknown. > > My mother suggested that I should have killed the snake, but my thought at the > time was that it would probably leave in peace and maybe eat some less > desirable critters (such as mice). In retrospect, though, I wonder if it might > really bite the cat, one of the kids, or me (it did have some fairly wicked > looking fangs). I live in western Michigan, so I wonder if anyone could give > me a clue as to what sort of snake this was, and whether it's really dangerous? Don't know the snake, but the fact that it didn't strike even when cornered suggests to me that even if it did have venom it's pretty reluctant to use it. You did the right thing to let it go on it's way. In Ontario the black rat snake, which gets to something like 6 to 8' and can climb trees too, is endangered because when one is encountered many people's first reaction is to kill it. (They don't pose a danger to people.) From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!galileo.cc.rochester.edu!ee.rochester.edu!moscom!de Thu May 27 00:37:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17643 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!galileo.cc.rochester.edu!ee.rochester.edu!moscom!de From: de@moscom.com (David Esan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Late Lettuce Message-ID: <5283@moscom.com> Date: 25 May 93 18:32:20 GMT References: Organization: Moscom Corporation, Pittsford NY Lines: 13 What does it mean when one says "the lettuce bolted."? What are the signs? When should you harvest? Thanks. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ --> David Esan de@moscom.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly Thu May 27 00:37:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17644 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Madagascar Jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda) Seed Pods Date: 25 May 1993 20:29:24 GMT Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena Lines: 22 Message-ID: <1ttvj4INNk34@gap.caltech.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: sandman.caltech.edu Summary: What now?! Well I was innocently wandering through my garden, only to find fluffy white seed down (or whatever it is called,) everywhere, I finally found the source, hanging on my Stephanotis vine, a dried half of a seed pod with some seeds still inside! Next to it was a green fruit, still ripening i suspect. It has been almost a year since their last flowering cycle, and I never noticed these HUGE pods this whole time! They are the same color of the foilage (well, the dried, open one is brown,) but the pods are 5-7 inches long and 3-4 inches wide, HUGE! Does anyone have more information on propagation of stephanotis? Is the 'fruit' edible? (I assume not...) Has this happened to anyone before? Who pollinated the flowers? (I've see regular hummingbird visitors working the flowers...) How long from pollination until the seed is ready (is it really almost a year?) What a great find! I've been wanting to propagate this vine, and the cuttings kept dying... :) (Does it propagate well from cuttings and I just have a brown thumb?) Kelly kelly@cco.caltech.edu From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker Thu May 27 00:37:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17645 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker From: fzbaker@dale.ucdavis.edu (Sharon D. Baker) Subject: Re: labels for rose gardens?? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Administrator) Organization: University of California, Davis X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3 References: <143740002@capella.cup.hp.com> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 20:54:44 GMT Lines: 14 I have gone to my local nursery and purchased white plastic plant markers--they look somewhat like popsicle sticks or tongue depressers, with one end pointed, and the other straight across. They come in "cards" of 6, perforated between each "stick". You see them in pots at the nursery listing what the plant is, or sometimes listing the price. There seem to be two different sizes-- I get the larger size (they are longer). Each card costs around 48 cents. You use an indelible felt marking pen on these, and stick them in front of your plant. They should last a long time, and even if I have to replace them periodically, they are still MUCH cheaper than those metal markers that you can buy from Jackson & Perkins -- Sharon D. Baker sdbaker@ucdavis.edu (916) 752-9946 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ssd.intel.com!ichips!pdx254!bhoover Thu May 27 00:37:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17646 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ssd.intel.com!ichips!pdx254!bhoover From: bhoover@pdx254.NoSubdomain.NoDomain (Bruce Hoover) Subject: Re: zucchini problem Message-ID: <1993May25.205005.24805@ichips.intel.com> Sender: news@ichips.intel.com (News Account) Reply-To: bhoover@ichips.intel.com Organization: Workgroup Computing Division, PDX, Intel References: <1trsf3$77g@morrow.stanford.edu> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 20:50:05 GMT Lines: 26 In article <1trsf3$77g@morrow.stanford.edu>, dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) writes: |> My zucchini (sp?) plants are fruiting, but before they |> get big enough to pick, they turn yellow and shrivel up. It |> seems to happen first at the blossom end and move toward the stem. |> |> There is no mold or anything on them, and there are a few |> (related?) gnaw marks. |> |> Is this insect damage? fungus? Nutrient deficiency (I haven't fertilized |> them at all). By the way, the rest of the plant looks quite |> healthy. |> |> Thanks for any help. |> |> Dawn |> |> It may be due to lack of pollination. There are two kinds of flowers on a zuke, male and female. The female flower looks like a tiny fruit with the flower on the end. The male is just a thin stem with a similar looking flower. Somtimes one or the other will develop first, i.e. female flower with no males available. I believe if the female is not pollinated she shrivels and dies. I sometimes will take a male flower remove the petals and hand pollinate the females. They just love it when I do that. (tee hee) Bruce From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!apple.com!BA.TIS.COM!pasturel Thu May 27 00:37:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17647 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!apple.com!BA.TIS.COM!pasturel From: pasturel@BA.TIS.COM (Pierre Pasturel) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RECOMMENDATION NEEDED: Dwarf Fescue seed Date: 25 May 1993 14:38:53 -0700 Organization: Trusted Information Systems Lines: 16 Sender: daemon@apple.com Message-ID: <9305252141.AA07406@saffron.ba.tis.com> Reply-To: pasturel@TIS.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: apple.com We want to buy dwarf fescue seed and have narrowed it down to two. Can anyone out there recommend one over the other? Pacific Sod Dwarf Fescue Seed, $3.60/lb Grass Farm's Double Champion Dwarf Fescue, $1.75/lb The Pacific Sod price is from Olive Branch in South San Jose, and Grass Farm in located in Morgan Hill. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Pierre pasturel@tis.com From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Thu May 27 00:37:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17648 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Madagascar Jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda) Seed Pods Message-ID: <1993May25.163708.13326@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 25 May 93 16:37:08 -0600 References: <1ttvj4INNk34@gap.caltech.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 28 In article <1ttvj4INNk34@gap.caltech.edu>, kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.) writes: > Well I was innocently wandering through my garden, only to find fluffy > white seed down (or whatever it is called,) everywhere, I finally > found the source, hanging on my Stephanotis vine, a dried half of > a seed pod with some seeds still inside! Next to it was a green fruit, > still ripening i suspect. > Is the 'fruit' edible? (I assume not...) Has this happened to anyone > before? Who pollinated the flowers? (I've see regular hummingbird > visitors working the flowers...) How long from pollination until > the seed is ready (is it really almost a year?) I haven't had Stephanotis fruit in the greenhouse, so I can't help on time from flowering to fruiting. 1 yr is an EXTREMELY long fruit development time in an herbaceous species, so I'd guess you missed a few flowers sometime... Tubular flowers like Stephanotis are typically pollinated by long-tongued animals -- moths, bats, hummingbirds. White flowers are typically pollinated by night-flying critters, like moths and bats, so that's my guess. Edible? Assume that just about everything that has downy seeds in a "milkweed"-type pod (follicle) is probably inedible, and you'll be pretty close to right. Apocynaceae and Asclepiadaceae aren't the greatest families for comestibles -- these two closely related families are loaded with alkaloids, latex, and/or cardiac glycosides. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gallux.gallaudet.edu!gallua.gallaudet.edu!rlwilliams Thu May 27 00:37:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17649 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gallux.gallaudet.edu!gallua.gallaudet.edu!rlwilliams From: rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu Subject: Re: Japanese maple trees Message-ID: <1993May25.171822.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> Lines: 30 Sender: news@gallux.gallaudet.edu (News manager) Organization: Gallaudet University References: <1993May21.170322.24999@tcpg02.ny> <1453300204@igc.apc.org> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 22:18:22 GMT In article <1453300204@igc.apc.org>, Libby Goldstein writes: > > I guess the big deal is that they are very slow growing, have lovely leaves that > are very finely cut in most cultivars and that some cultivars have red leaves > that retain their red color all season. > > Planting maples in a lawn is a risk even small ones that let lots of light thru > like the Japanese sorts. They are shallow rooted and compete with the grass > for nutrients and water. > > On the other hand, I am ideologically opposed to grassy lawns because they use > so much energy and water, so I 'd plant the maple. Forest Farm has many many > cultivars for sale. > > Libby > ========== the big deal about Japanese Maples is that they're beautiful. go to a nursery or look for a book by Vertrees called "Japanese Maples" and see if you agree. If not, then no big deal... There are hundreds of varieties but only a few are available in the us. in addition to your local nursery, Wayside Gardens offers some exotic varieties that are worth considering. If you plant them in the lawn you can always make a bed of mulch around them so they don't compete with the grass... As you can tell, I'm hooked. I have four different kinds in my back yard and love them... skip From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Thu May 27 00:37:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17650 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: uses for cat litter? Message-ID: <1993May25.165630.13327@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 25 May 93 16:56:30 -0600 References: <1993May24.162956.28806@walter.cray.com> <1993May25.190400.24874@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com> <1ttvdsINN3vo@octaman.mathcs.emory.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 50 In article <1ttvdsINN3vo@octaman.mathcs.emory.edu>, vicki@mathcs.emory.edu (Vicki Powers) writes: > In article <1993May25.190400.24874@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com>, mmanago@vanadium.ny.jpmorgan.com (Maria) writes: >> >> In article 28806@walter.cray.com, gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: >> Also feces can harbor fungi which, when inhaled, cause mild illness ^^^^^ protozoa >> in most people but can also cause serious birth defects >> in pregnant women. I believe the disease is called toxoplasmosis >> When you say mild illness what exactly do you mean? >> I have a cat and I was sick so much last winter and sometimes over the summer I get sick. do you mean colds or flu like symtoms? Any info would help, thanks. > > Toxoplasmosis causes mild flu-like symptoms. It is a virus (I believe), in All true, except _Toxoplasma gondii_ is a protozoan. It's also a problem for immunosuppressed people. > any case if you've had it once you will be immune. It is not a serious illness > except if caught by a pregnant woman -- it can cause serious birth defects, > especially during the first trimester. Not all cats carry Toxoplasma, and the *most* common cause of Toxoplasmosis is eating undercooked meats, or food that has been placed on a cutting board that has had Toxoplasma-infected meat on it. There are tests to tell if a cat carries Toxoplasma, and tests to determine if you're immune to Toxoplasma. > A few years ago I got ringworm on my arm (a fungus, not a worm!) My doctor > guessed that I most likely caught it from the cats next door -- they like to > poop in my garden. Ringworm isn't much fun and it was difficult to get rid > of, so I would definitely not play around with cat poop. Ringworm is a fungus disease of skin and hair. It's not transmitted in feces, though the spores can be blown in. Like all fungal diseases, it's a long time treatment that's needed for a cure. And you can catch ringworm from a variety of species-- I got mine from a kid I taught to swim! That said, I still won't compost kitty litter, though Linnaeus knows I've got enough of it with 6 cats... I'm not worried about Toxoplasma, but I am worried about enteric bacteria like some of the antibiotic resistant strains of E. coli, etc. I also don't want the cats exposed to vast quantities of fecal organisms as they play in the garden, nor do I want dogs going through my compost after cat feces.... Sorry, I like dogs, except when they're coprophagus... Kitty litter used to go in an anaerobic digester ("Doggie Dooley" was the name of the plans I copied). Now that I don't have my own place anymore, it gets landfilled. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Thu May 27 00:38:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17651 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Saving bulbs from bugs Message-ID: <1993May25.133606.1381@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 25 May 93 21:36:06 GMT References: <1993May24.192633.25531@SanDiego.NCR.COM> Organization: - Lines: 79 In article <1993May24.192633.25531@SanDiego.NCR.COM>, mattc@SanDiego.NCR.COM (Matthew Costello) writes: > I left my bulbs (Tulips, Daffodils, Iris) in the ground last summer, > which turned out to be a big mistake. The bugs have eaten many of them > and few of the tulips even came up this past winter. I live in a > very temperate climate 1/2 mile from the ocean. [Yesterdays temp: > high 68, low 62] > > I started digging up the bulbs and am finding lots of bugs eating > my bulbs, primarily slugs and very small (1/32") white bugs. I am > removing the slugs as I dig them out, but the white bugs are too small > and are often eating from the inside out. HELP! What should I do to > treat the bulbs to kill them? I don't want to have to peel all the > bulbs to check for bugs. > Since you mention only tulips, daffodils and iris, I'm going to assume these are the only bulbs you have. If the slugs are getting to any of these, they weren't planted deeply enough (unless you have a slug that digs below the ground level). The white bugs sound like some kind of scale insect, which again shouldn't be a problem if the bulbs were planted deeply enough. Concerning tulips, consider them an annual in your (our?) climate. They won't come back. You can try digging them and refrigerating them for six weeks in the fall and then planting them very deep (12 plus inches) and you might have some success, but it isn't really worth all the work in my opinion. Most daffodils should return year after year here without too much attention. The main thing is not removing the foliage until it dies naturally, (Also don't let the soil go bone dry until the foliage dies back). Daffodils should be 6 inches deep. Not all types will return without a good winter chill. I have good luck with Suzie, Ice Follies, King Alfred, Geranium, and several other varieties. I find I need to divide clumps about every 4 years. You shouldn't have pest problems with the bulbs. Not much will eat a daffodil bulb. Slugs and snails can be a problem with them eating the flowers when they are in bloom, but they usually leave the foliage alone. By iris, I assume you mean Dutch iris. These should return from year to year without digging, but the do seem to loose some of their vigor over the years. I've never noticed any pest problem with these. > Some of the bulbs are very small. I don't know how well they will > survive until the fall. I will probably not put the bulbs back down > until Thanksgiving day. Normal lows in winter are 50s and some of > the bulbs start growing as soon as they are in the ground. After Thanksgiving would be about right. You are correct in assuming that the small bulbs probably won't bloom. > > Given the local weather (lots of fog through June) I'm wondering if > I can trick the bulbs into a several month cycle this summer. Has > anyone ever tried this? I can shade them with netting if necessary. > I don't expect any 90s days until late august, and by then they should > already have bloomed and be cycling down. I've never tried forcing this far out of season. I don't think it would work unless you are able to somehow chill the soil to fake winter soil temperatures. > Also, what is a good reference on growing bulbs? Especially in a > moderate climate. I can't name any one good source. Patricia Welch (Is that the right name?) has a good book on general gardening in Southern California. I know she talks about bulbs. I'd like to suggested that you look into South African bulbs (though most are really corms). They are much better suited for our climate than the "Dutch" bulbs. They naturalize well and don't require digging accept when crowded. Some of these are freesias, watsonia, babiana, tritonia, ixis, and sparaxis. There are many others. Also, don't forget ranunculus. Did you see the flower fields along the coast in Carlsbad? These will out bloom any tulip in our climate. Jim From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Thu May 27 00:38:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17652 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: RECOMMENDATION NEEDED: Dwarf Fescue seed Message-ID: <1993May25.181158.13334@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 25 May 93 18:11:58 -0600 References: <9305252141.AA07406@saffron.ba.tis.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 24 In article <9305252141.AA07406@saffron.ba.tis.com>, pasturel@BA.TIS.COM (Pierre Pasturel) writes: > We want to buy dwarf fescue seed and have narrowed it down > to two. Can anyone out there recommend one over the other? > > Pacific Sod Dwarf Fescue Seed, $3.60/lb > Grass Farm's Double Champion Dwarf Fescue, $1.75/lb There's really not enough information here to say-- are these single cultivars? Mixtures? What? Personally, I'd probably buy both and mix them... although a properly chosen single-line cultivar can outperform the best mixture in many situations, I prefer to have a goodly amount of genetic diversity available when diseases or other stresses move through-- that way SOMETHING generally survives. I do the same thing in my veggie garden. I can't recall last time I planted 6 of one cultivar of tomato, or whatever... I usually plant no more than 2 of any one cultivar if I'm putting in a dozen plants... I may not have the highest yields possible that year, but even if the plants get hit with disease, drought, etc., one of the cultivars is probably going to make it. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Thu May 27 00:38:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17653 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: labels for rose gardens?? Message-ID: <1993May25.181600.13335@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 25 May 93 18:16:00 -0600 References: <143740002@capella.cup.hp.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 13 If you don't mind "homemade-looking" labels, use the cardboard-backed aluminum tags you can write on with a pen or pencil. The writing permanently embosses into the aluminum. Look in nursery catalogs for these. If you want the "engraved" looks of plastic labels, check the local phone book under "engravers, plastic". These are the folks that make the office nameplates, etc. You can have your choice of colors of labels and typefaces and sizes for not much money. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!silver.ucs.indiana.edu!rijtaylo Thu May 27 00:38:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17654 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!silver.ucs.indiana.edu!rijtaylo From: rijtaylo@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Crafty) Subject: need contacts in Sustainable Agriculture Message-ID: Sender: news@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: silver.ucs.indiana.edu Organization: Indiana University References: <1993May25.223440.6137@ast.saic.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 01:11:49 GMT Lines: 77 To whom it may concern; I am seeking opportunities for paid or subsistence work in sustainable agriculture, preferably within an indigenous/intentional-community or other non-market context. I am currently working with Stranger's Hill organic farm near Bloomington, Indiana, and will be there over this coming summer learning small-scale growing and distribution methods such as Community Supported Agriculture. I would like to use my background in the life sciences in support of peoples' efforts to feed their communities in economically self-reliant and ecologically sustainable ways. I enjoy my work at the farm and I hope that you or someone you know will find my experience valuable. My stay there will be over by October of '93 and I would much appreciate hearing from you by then. Sincerely, Richard Taylor rijtaylo@ucs.indiana.edu ps if you are familiar with other groups or lists to which I might crosspost (especially organic/sustainable ag groups) please let me know. /*========================= Resume follows ================================*/ Richard J. Taylor 523 S. Park Bloomington, IN 47401 812-332-7530 rijtaylo@ucs.indiana.edu Long-term Goal: Wish to work with non-governmental organization promoting sustainable agricultural practices and local self-reliance. Education: BS Biology, May 1993 Indiana University at Bloomington, Indiana GPA 3.12 out of 4.0 Work Experience: Hired hand at Stranger's Hill organic farm near Bloomington, Indiana. Assist with light construction duties, greenhouse and field work. Jan 93-present Co-founder of Cheshire Cafe at Collins Residence Hall. Helped assess and fulfill needs for equipment and furnishings, established kitchen protocol, supervised nightly setup and takedown of equipment, trained other volunteers. Sep-Dec 90 Other skills: Familiar with Wordperfect, File Transfer Protocol, Scheme and C programming languages, VMS and UNIX operating systems. Activities/Community Service: Cook/washer with Community Kitchen Jan-Mar 93 Active with Bloomington Peace and Justice Center Aug-Dec 91 Deputy Registrar, Municipal Elections, Monroe County, IN Sep-Oct 91 Residence Hall Floor Governor Sep 90-May 91 References: Marti Crouch Mike Tansey Stranger's Hill c/o Dale Jones 832 W 8th St. JH 005, Biology Dept. 2815 Louden Rd Bloomington, IN 47404 Bloomington, IN 47405 Bloomington, IN 47402 From samba!concert!gatech!udel!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!siemens!princeton!monkeyboy.princeton.edu!user Thu May 27 00:38:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17655 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!udel!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!siemens!princeton!monkeyboy.princeton.edu!user From: tucker@math.ias.edu (M. Tucker) Subject: Cucumber beetle or cabbage borer? Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Originator: news@nimaster Sender: news@Princeton.EDU (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: monkeyboy.princeton.edu Organization: Institute for Advanced Study Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 16:20:26 GMT Lines: 12 All of my seedling cucumbers, squash, broccoli, ... even marigolds, have been either totally eaten or chewed on by some unseen critter. I recently sprayed Rotenone on them, it looks like I may have stopped their feast, but I would like to know what it was, and what to do about it. I am somewhat certain that the culprit is a bug, I just am not sure which kind. Thanks for any advice or comments. Marcia Tucker tucker@math.ias.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!news.service.uci.edu!ucivax!ucla-cs!ucla-ma!julia!ramirez Thu May 27 00:38:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17656 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!news.service.uci.edu!ucivax!ucla-cs!ucla-ma!julia!ramirez From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) Subject: catlitter in the compost pile Message-ID: <1993May26.044613.14342@math.ucla.edu> Sender: news@math.ucla.edu Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department Date: Wed, 26 May 93 04:46:13 GMT Lines: 17 Ah, the old used cat litter discussion! Our sense of thrift loathes the idea of spending a fortune on bags of absorbant clay then throwing it and the perfectly organic matter it collects, away. Posters have warned about the possibility of worms, etc. in composting used catlitter. Might I add another. If you decide to take a chance and toss your used litter and cat yum-yums onto the old compost heap, make sure to block access of your heap to any pet dogs. I learned to my horror when I took in a stray dog that these creatures look upon cat feces as the next best thing to vanilla ice cream. When a dog gets hold of one of them, and starts to chew on it, a look of pure rapture comes onto their faces. It'd be kinda cute if it weren't so disgusting. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!NewsWatcher!user Thu May 27 00:38:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17657 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!NewsWatcher!user From: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu (Bob Klebba) Subject: Re: Watering question Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@nicmad.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: mac1_24 Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation References: Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 01:18:43 GMT Lines: 18 In article , eaa@doc.ic.ac.uk (Liz) wrote: > > > > Is there any nutritional benefit to be gained by plants from watering > them with the (cooled) water vegetables have been cooked in? > > > Liz (eaa@doc.ic.ac.uk) Yes, the stock will add some nitrogen to the soil. I'd be interested to hear whether it makes a difference. Bob Klebba Nicolet Instrument Corp. Madison, WI, USA USDA zone 4 "Submit to Barney" From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!NewsWatcher!user Thu May 27 00:38:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17658 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!NewsWatcher!user From: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu (Bob Klebba) Subject: Re: Cold damage (?) to Tomatoes Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@nicmad.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: mac1_24 Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation References: Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 01:24:51 GMT Lines: 32 In article , stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) wrote: > > > We had a cold wet spell (rain & day temperatures below 55 F) several > days after I transplanted my tomatoes outside. The lower leaves on many > of the plants now have brown-yellow spots on them. Are those just signs > of cold damage, or are they something more sinister, like disease? > > If my tomatoes were just a little bit "frost-bitten", I presume that > they will recover but just be a bit stunted. C'est la vie. > > Shih Tung > Chem E > Best l'il Tech School > in cold Cambridge Frost damage usually appears at the tops of the plants. The younger foliage on almost everything seems to be the most vulnerable. We had a frost two weeks ago and my tomatoes got zapped. The top leaves appeared wilted, but the ones closer to the soil are okay. All my eggplant, peppers and basil are gone though. C'est la vie, to coin a phrase. I think the problem you're seeing is transplant shock. The plants are dropping leaves so that the rest of the plant can keep going. Since it's been so cold, they're slow to get going. Bob Klebba Nicolet Instrument Corp. Madison, WI, USA USDA zone 4 "Submit to Barney" From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!nj.nec.com!mac-yoko.nj.nec.com!user Thu May 27 00:38:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17659 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!nj.nec.com!mac-yoko.nj.nec.com!user From: yoko@research.nj.nec.com (Yoko Ozawa) Subject: Source of straw for mulch? Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: news@research.nj.nec.com Organization: NEC Research Institute, Inc. Distribution: usa Date: Tue, 25 May 93 14:22:07 GMT Lines: 28 Hello! Gardening fever has struck, and I'm out there every day, grubbing around in the dirt. :-) I want to get some straw to use as mulch for my vegetable garden, and was thinking of seeing if I could get a few new bales from one of the horse farms/stables near my development. (For my small garden, 3 bales should be plenty, 4 may be too much). Could I solicit advice RE: (1) If the straw is supposed to be for bedding/feed for horses, am I correct in assuming that I won't need to worry about chemicals (pesticides/herbicides)? -- BTW, I don't want USED straw, I know that would make a great addition to my compost pile, but I'm about the only one who composts and my neighbors already look at me funny -- IMAGINE, if I brought horse manure home! (2) If (1) is a consideration, is there such a thing as source of chemical-free straw/hay? -- (I think I want straw, but I won't quibble) -- would local county extension be the place to find out? I hear about them all the time, but I've never tried calling one -- well, I take that back, last and only time I tried, they were on summer vacation or something... :-( Thanks for your responses! -- yoko From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!news Thu May 27 00:38:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17660 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!news From: os2user@brdiller.houston.ibm.com (Barry Diller) Subject: Squash Blossom-end Rot, Was: zucchini problem Sender: news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 15:08:07 GMT News-Software: IBM OS/2 PM RN (NR/2) v0.16 by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers Lines: 43 Reply-To: brdiller@vnet.ibm.com (Barry Diller) Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM. References: <1993May25.133701.13959@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: brdiller.houston.ibm.com Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research In <1993May25.133701.13959@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) writes: >In article: <1trsf3$77g@morrow.stanford.edu> dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn >Burgess) asks: > >> >>My zucchini (sp?) plants are fruiting, but before they >>get big enough to pick, they turn yellow and shrivel up. It >>seems to happen first at the blossom end and move toward the stem. >> >>There is no mold or anything on them, and there are a few >>(related?) gnaw marks. >> >>Is this insect damage? fungus? Nutrient deficiency (I haven't fertilized >>them at all). By the way, the rest of the plant looks quite >>healthy. >> >>Thanks for any help. >> >>Dawn > >This happens if the little zucchinis don't get fertilized. If you have >both male (no tiny zucchini under the flower) and female (yes tiny zucchini >under the flower) flowers then probably the pollen is not getting from the >male to the female flowers because you have no bees, or your bees are more >interested in something else which is flowering nearby. > .. >--Jill I am losing a lot of my yellow (non-crookneck) squash to some sort of blossom-end rot. The end of some of my baby squash gets soft and then rapidly turns white and mushy. At first, I thought that they were rotting due to contact with the damp ground (we've had a lot of rain this spring), but I've now seen this condition happen to squash that are an inch or more above the ground. Is this a pollination problem as well, or is it (as I suspect) some sort of nutrient deficiency? BTW, I am getting a lot of good squash from my plants, but I'd have so much more if I could stop this rot. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Barry R. Diller IBM Federal Sector Sevices Company EMail address: brdiller@vnet.ibm.com Houston, Texas USA From samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!ncar!noao!stsci!stosc!mryan Thu May 27 00:38:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17661 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!asuvax!ncar!noao!stsci!stosc!mryan From: mryan@stsci.edu Subject: HUGE slugs - help! Message-ID: <1993May25.113243.1@stsci.edu> Lines: 17 Sender: news@stsci.edu Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute Distribution: na Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 16:32:43 GMT I'm sure this topic comes up a lot, but is there anything better than beer to kill the slugs in my garden? I planted some marigolds around my tomatoes and the slugs have eaten and killed most of them. Someone/something ate all my sunflower seedlings shortly after they sprouted, too. I put some saucers of beer out two nights ago, and a few very small slugs were in there the next morning. Last night I looked around the garden at 11:00 pm and there were some HUGE slugs, about 3" long and 1/2" wide. I pushed them into the beer but then I saw them climb out. They probably enjoyed it (it was Michelob :-). Suggestions eagerly awaited. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Mary Ryan mryan@stsci.edu Space Telescope Science Institute Baltimore, Maryland From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!vmd.cso.uiuc.edu!KARLOSKI Thu May 27 00:38:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17662 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!vmd.cso.uiuc.edu!KARLOSKI From: KARLOSKI@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu Subject: Re: Flowering Chives Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 16:00:02 GMT Message-ID: <16BD99AC6.KARLOSKI@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu> References: <24660@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Organization: C.C.S.O. Lines: 15 In article <24660@mindlink.bc.ca> Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >In response to Laura Uerling:lju1@cornell.edu > >>I have some chives in my garden that are growing like crazy and >>producing lots of purple flowers. I know it's generally not a good idea (rest deleted) According to my mom, who had lots of these also, chive blossoms are edible, and make a nice garnish in salad. She is also making chive blossom vinegar (it's a lovely pink color right now). Jenny Herl From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg Thu May 27 00:38:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17663 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg From: samg@col.hp.com (Sam Gaylord) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: When to harvest potatoes in AZ Date: 25 May 1993 16:17:22 GMT Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division Lines: 12 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1ttgqiINNa6n@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: <1993May19.165924.6596@gtephx.UUCP> NNTP-Posting-Host: sushi12.cs.itc.hp.com In cooler climates you CAN dig the potato at any time. If they're not fully grown, they're called new potatoes. If you wait until the tops die down, the skins will get a little thicker and the potato will quit growing. At this point, you can dig it at you will. If you are in damp soil, you should dig them up soon or they will rot after the top dies. +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ | Sam Gaylord Colorado Springs ITC e-mail Support Team | | e-mail: samg@cs.itc.hp.com HPDesk: Sam Gaylord/HP0800 | | Telnet: 1-590-2907 / AT&T: (719) 590-2907 / Fax: (719) 590-3596 | +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme Thu May 27 00:38:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17664 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme From: cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HUGE slugs - help! Date: 25 May 1993 12:41 EST Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 36 Distribution: na Message-ID: <25MAY199312413833@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> References: <1993May25.113243.1@stsci.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: lims01.lerc.nasa.gov News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 In article <1993May25.113243.1@stsci.edu>, mryan@stsci.edu writes... >I'm sure this topic comes up a lot, but is there anything better than beer >to kill the slugs in my garden? I planted some marigolds around my tomatoes >and the slugs have eaten and killed most of them. Someone/something ate >all my sunflower seedlings shortly after they sprouted, too. > >I put some saucers of beer out two nights ago, and a few very small slugs >were in there the next morning. Last night I looked around the garden >at 11:00 pm and there were some HUGE slugs, about 3" long and 1/2" wide. >I pushed them into the beer but then I saw them climb out. They probably >enjoyed it (it was Michelob :-). > >Suggestions eagerly awaited. > >----------------------------------------------------------------------- >Mary Ryan mryan@stsci.edu >Space Telescope Science Institute >Baltimore, Maryland How big are your saucers? I had poor luck with teacup saucers but great success with those 4" plastic plant saucers that you stick under a small house plant. Since they are deeper, its easier for the big guys to go swimming. My best night, I netted over 40 slugs in 3 of these plastic saucers, including 1/2 a dozen of the finger sized ones that you described. The weird part is, the big guys always die with their mouths open. It looks like their last words were "uh-oh" :-) OK its gross, but less so than stepping on something that size IMHO. I haven't tried substituting yeast & water for beer yet, but last year I stocked up on 2 types of beer - good stuff for me, and cheap stuff for the slugs. Why waste Michelob on a lower life form?! --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Marty Zimmerman | There are three types of lies; cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov | lies, damn lies, and statistics Analex Corp. - NASA Lewis, Cleveland | - Mark Twain --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!gatech!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!rtech!ingres!tad Thu May 27 00:38:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17665 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!rtech!ingres!tad From: tad@Ingres.COM (Tom Drynda) Subject: Re: I want a quick, living fence Message-ID: <1993May25.163006.9209@pony.Ingres.COM> Reply-To: tad@Ingres.COM (Tom Drynda) Organization: Ask Computer Systems Inc., Ingres Division, Alameda CA 94501 References: <21MAY93.16325896@pattie.wellesley.edu> Date: 25 May 93 16:30:05 GMT Lines: 23 In article <21MAY93.16325896@pattie.wellesley.edu> mwolf@pattie.wellesley.edu writes: | I need to install a visual barrier, approximately 24' wide and 6' | high. I would rather plant some fast growing, fast filling in deciduous | shrubs, rather that building a fence. I specify deciduous, because I | don't need the privacy during the cold months of the year, and I assume | I can achieve thicker, more rapid coverage with a deciduous shrub than | with a coniferous one. | The 6' height is the minimum that I need. | I would like to know the names of the shrubs that you would recommend | as well as the minimum space that I must leave between them. | I live in southern Worcester County, Massachusetts, which is in inland | southern New England. | Thanks in advance for any sugestions! | Mur Wolf How about some Rosemary. I planted some a few months ago at the front of my house. The nursery claim that it will grow to 6-7 ft in 2-3 seasons. It certainly seems to be on it's way to that at the moment. You can use it in cooking, and it has very nice pale blue flowers at this time of year too. Tom. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!bnrgate!bmers95!bnr.ca!mmckenna Thu May 27 00:38:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17666 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!bnrgate!bmers95!bnr.ca!mmckenna From: mmckenna@bnr.ca (Michael McKenna) Subject: Maple Tree repair Message-ID: <1993May25.163108.13332@bmers95.bnr.ca> Sender: usenet@bmers95.bnr.ca Reply-To: mmckenna@bnr.ca (Michael McKenna) Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd. Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 16:31:08 GMT Lines: 13 We have just moved to a new house that has 80 year old maple trees lining the driveway. They look like they are on their last legs however. I spent the last weekend cutting and knocking off dead branches. Their are a lot of places where the wood has rooted, especially in the Y portions of the tree where the water easily collects. The only reading I have done on the subject says to cut out all the rotten stuff and fill it with something (can't remember what) - I have heard of using cement. Has anyone done this kind of work before? What did you fill the hole with? Where do you stop with the pruning; in some cases you might have a 20 inch branch that is hollow on one side but living on the other - do you just cut the whole thing off? Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike McKenna From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg Thu May 27 00:38:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17667 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg From: samg@col.hp.com (Sam Gaylord) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gurney's Seed Catalog Date: 25 May 1993 16:47:01 GMT Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division Lines: 12 Message-ID: <1ttii5INNbo1@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: sushi12.cs.itc.hp.com I've been buying from Gurney for several years and am very happy with both the quality of their seeds and their follow up service in case of error. I usually order in late January or Feburary because by this time of year their supplies are starting to dwindle. samg +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ | Sam Gaylord Colorado Springs ITC e-mail Support Team | | e-mail: samg@cs.itc.hp.com HPDesk: Sam Gaylord/HP0800 | | Telnet: 1-590-2907 / AT&T: (719) 590-2907 / Fax: (719) 590-3596 | +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!cs.uiuc.edu!cs.uiuc.edu!sal.cs.uiuc.edu!howard Thu May 27 00:38:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17668 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!cs.uiuc.edu!cs.uiuc.edu!sal.cs.uiuc.edu!howard From: howard@cs.uiuc.edu Subject: Re: Flowering chives Message-ID: Sender: howard@cs.uiuc.edu (Bonnie Howard) Organization: Dept. of Computer Sci - University of Illinois References: <1tr34rINNgce@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 16:35:30 GMT Lines: 9 My daughter has chives in our herb garden - she is letting it go to flower - it has blooms like a clover - she takes the blooms and puts them into our salad - they are delicious - why not try that - be careful because they are sort of strong tasting... Enjoy - . From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb Thu May 27 00:38:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17669 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb From: barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: incredible worms on evergreen bushes Date: 25 May 1993 16:21:07 GMT Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH Lines: 37 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1tth1j$aut@meaddata.meaddata.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: moe.meaddata.com In article , saari@magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU (Susan J Saari) writes: |> |> We had these incredible worms chowing down on the needles of our |> small evergreen bushes. There were literally hundreds of them. They |> attached themselves by their bottom legs to the branch and ate the |> needles all the way to the bottom. I looked |> in my insect book trying to find out what they were. Do you have |> any guesses? |> |> Columbus, Ohio |> I had these on my Mugho pine (small ornamental evergreen bush), too, doing exactly what you describe. I realized they had hatched from bunches of little white eggs that had been laid on the needles of the plant last fall. A knowledgeable gardener I know says that this is called "white scale," and is so common on Mugho pines, many people won't grow them. Apparently once the scale invades, it comes back with a vengeance every year and will spread to other pines. I scraped the remaining "scale" off as many needles as I could, and sprayed the worms with a garlic/water solution two or three days in a row. That got rid of this year's invasion. If I see the stuff this fall, I'll decide whether to just get rid of the bush. I'd have cleaned it off last fall, but I thought either someone had sprayed the bush a little with white paint, or "egged" it (I have teenagers - these things happen). I never realized it was eggs. -- Barbara Bruns Technical Communications & Education Mead Data Central barb@meaddata.com P.O. Box 933 ...!uunet!meaddata!barb Dayton, OH 45401 The opinions expressed here by me are not necessarily those of Mead Data Central; nor would they much care about the things about which I have opinions. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg Thu May 27 00:38:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17670 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg From: samg@col.hp.com (Sam Gaylord) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Importance of potato blossoms, ladybugs, and soap Date: 25 May 1993 17:03:21 GMT Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division Lines: 12 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1ttjgpINNbrm@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: sushi12.cs.itc.hp.com If what you're seeing are dark red with two rows of black spots, and they're soft and mushy, they're potato bug larvae. Left alone they'll eat you out of house and home. The best way to get rid of them is to get a small can, fill it with soapy water, pick them off and dump them in the can. The adults look like 3/8 inch long straw colored lady bugs... Deposit them in the wash water also. Look under the leaves for yellow/orange egg masses, crush them when you see them. If you're into chemicals, spray with SEVIN about once per week. As for the blossoms, they don't really do anything for the potato itself, but if they mature, you'll get something that looks like a green tomato. I don't know if it's edible or not, but out of about 100 plants, you'll get 3-4 of these seed pods. From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.centerline.com!diameter!troy Thu May 27 00:38:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17671 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.centerline.com!diameter!troy From: troy@diameter (Troy Runkel) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Homegrown herbs for cooking Date: 25 May 1993 16:49:19 GMT Organization: CenterLine Software Lines: 15 Message-ID: <1ttimf$9t9@armory.centerline.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 140.239.3.206 X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] [ Article crossposted from rec.food.cooking ] [ Author was Troy Runkel ] [ Posted on 25 May 1993 16:48:17 GMT ] Greetings, I have recently begun growing several herbs (french tarragon and oregano for starters) in my home for cooking purposes. I have read that most herbs should be harvested when their oil content is the highest, shortly after they begin to flower. I was wondering if "harvest time" is the only time that these herbs work to full effect in cooking. If I were to clip off a small piece of the herb and use it for cooking before the herb was ready to be harvested would that greatly reduce the effect of the herb? Thanks in advance. --Troy Runkel troy@centerline.com From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!syma!andy Thu May 27 00:38:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17672 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!syma!andy From: andy@syma.sussex.ac.uk (Andy Clews) Subject: Re: Rhubarb Message-ID: <1993May25.125358.16435@syma.sussex.ac.uk> Organization: University of Sussex X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] References: Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 12:53:58 GMT Lines: 14 While there's a thread running about Rhubarb, I thought it might be worth pointing out that rhubarb leaves can be used to make an effective organic insecticide. Basically you boil up a few pounds of rhubarb leaves in a few pints of water for about 15 or 20 minutes, allow to cool, then strain the liquid into a suitable container. Dissolve some soap flakes in this liquid and use it to spray against aphids. So, next time you pick some rhubarb stems to eat, you can put the leaves to good use rather than just composting them (which isn't in itself such a bad use, I guess). -- Andy Clews, Computing Service, Univ. of Sussex, Brighton BN1 9QJ, England JANET: andy@uk.ac.sussex.syma OTHER NETWORKS: andy@syma.sussex.ac.uk From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg Thu May 27 00:38:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17673 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg From: samg@col.hp.com (Sam Gaylord) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help, Oregano bug Date: 25 May 1993 17:19:40 GMT Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division Lines: 13 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1ttkfcINNbte@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: <1tqbdbINN15a@early-bird.think.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: sushi12.cs.itc.hp.com If the "bug" was soft (larva stage) it probably was a potato bug. Squash them or pick them off and drop in soapy water. I had a bunch migrate from my potatoes to my oregano and basil last year. If you pick them off the plant leaves are still OK. If you crush them, then that leaf has bug innards on it and unless you're into raw protien, I'd toss that leaf aside. samg +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ | Sam Gaylord Colorado Springs ITC e-mail Support Team | | e-mail: samg@cs.itc.hp.com HPDesk: Sam Gaylord/HP0800 | | Telnet: 1-590-2907 / AT&T: (719) 590-2907 / Fax: (719) 590-3596 | +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!access.usask.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu May 27 00:38:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17674 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!access.usask.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: zucchini problem Message-ID: <1993May25.092935.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 25 May 93 09:29:35 MDT References: <1trsf3$77g@morrow.stanford.edu> Distribution: world Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 24 In article <1trsf3$77g@morrow.stanford.edu>, dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) writes: > My zucchini (sp?) plants are fruiting, but before they > get big enough to pick, they turn yellow and shrivel up. It > seems to happen first at the blossom end and move toward the stem. > > There is no mold or anything on them, and there are a few > (related?) gnaw marks. Be patient! It sounds like only the female flowers are blooming (they generally start first - they have small zucchinis on them when they bloom). The male flowers usually start a week or two after the female blossoms - the male flowers do not have the small zucchinis on their base. The male flowers have the pollen, the female flowers have the embryo, and, well, you know how it goes.... The bees will complete the process, though it may take them another week or two to find the male flowers (which they like because they have the pollen). They will then move it to the female flowers and deposit it on the pistils in a fruitless search for more pollen. You can cheat and fertilize them yourself, but this is usually not as effective. If the female blossoms do not get fertilized then the zucchinis only grow to a couple inches in size then whither and die. This is true for all these types of plants - cukes, melons, squash, etc. Don From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.intercon.com!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!jareed Thu May 27 00:38:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17675 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.intercon.com!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!jareed From: jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) Subject: Re: labels for rose gardens?? Message-ID: <1993May25.165920.1166@newstand.syr.edu> Summary: Is labeling your garden a sign of something? Keywords: retentiveness Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY References: <143740002@capella.cup.hp.com> Date: Tue, 25 May 93 16:59:20 EDT Lines: 19 I don't know a source for rose labels, sorry, but am curious as to how many of us label our gardens? I purchased a package of 25 tall white plastic garden stakes, shaped sort of like oblong lollipops, to label my garden this year, and am nearly out already. My intentions were to label things that are hard to find in the spring so I don't dig them up, label tiny seedlings so they can be located, and just generally make my garden logical and orderly. I love them, but I am afraid it looks a bit kooky to the neighbors, my nice herb garden out front with big markers by tiny herb plants, and my nice flower garden with white markers peeking thru every foot or two. Do any of the rest of you have this compulsion? Is it normal, or is it a sign of something??? Do you label with scientific or common names, or both??? %:^) Judith Reed jareed@syr.edu From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!mvb.saic.com!ast.saic.com!kafka!okagaki Thu May 27 00:38:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17676 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!mvb.saic.com!ast.saic.com!kafka!okagaki From: okagaki@kafka.SAIC.COM (Karen Okagaki x6515) Subject: mantid bet Message-ID: <1993May25.223440.6137@ast.saic.com> Sender: okagaki@kafka (Karen Okagaki x6515) Organization: SAIC Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 22:34:40 GMT Lines: 18 I recently hatched a few thousand praying mantids and released most in my garden at home. I took 3 mantids in to work, where they now live in my office garden. Recently, I have found several mantid "bodies." I am positive that I brought in 3 baby mantids, about .25 inches long. One died almost immediately. The two that are left are now 1.5 and 2.5 inches long. I have found what appear to be 4 dead mantids! The question is, where did these bodies come from??? Some co-workers are convinced that mantids shed their skins like snakes. This seems highly unlikely to me, and so we have a small wager going on. Do mantids shed their skins? If not, what are these bodies and where did they come from? Karen okagaki@kafka.saic.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!copeland Thu May 27 00:38:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17677 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!copeland From: copeland@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Linda Copeland) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: 7th Annual Baltimore Herb Festival Message-ID: <36368@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 26 May 93 13:34:28 GMT Reply-To: copeland@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Linda Aberts) Distribution: usa Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Annapolis, MD Lines: 22 May 29th, 1993, 10 am to 6 pm at Leakin Park. This year's theme: What's New in Herbs. Special attraction: GRIOTS CIRCLE OF MARYLAND, INC. Maryland's Black Story Tellers Telling Tales About Herbs. Admission is $3. For information contact: Baltimore Herb Festival 2301 Pickwick Road Baltimore, MD 21207 (410) 448-0406 Directions: Take Exit 16 (Rt 70) off the Beltway (Rt 695) toward Baltimore. Turn off on Security Blvd. Right at first light onto Forest Park Ave. Right at next light onto Windsor Mill Rd. You're at the festival. Sponsored by: Planning Committee, Baltimore Herb Festival; Baltimore Dept. of Rec. and Parks; MD Dept. of Agriculture. FYI, Linda From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Thu May 27 00:38:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17678 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Re: Snake question Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 13:47:57 GMT References: <1srdps$8vr@walt.ee.pdx.edu> Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 14 CATfish (davidr@flotsam.ee.pdx.edu) wrote: : First the dangerous part: There are only 4 type of poisonous : snakes that are indigious to the US: : rattler : coral snake : copperhead : Water Moccasin : "Lawyers." You forgot "lawyers." ;^) Gary Hypes From samba!concert!duke!kk Thu May 27 00:38:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17679 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!duke!kk From: kk@duke.cs.duke.edu (Krzysztof Kozminski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Japanese maple trees Message-ID: <738423904@stego.cs.duke.edu> Date: 26 May 93 13:45:05 GMT References: <1993May21.170322.24999@tcpg02.ny> <1453300204@igc.apc.org> <1993May25.171822.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> Organization: Duke University Computer Science Dept.; Durham, N.C. Lines: 39 In article <1993May25.171822.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu writes: >the big deal about Japanese Maples is that they're beautiful. go to a >nursery or look for a book by Vertrees called "Japanese Maples" and see if >you agree. If not, then no big deal... There are hundreds of varieties but >only a few are available in the us. It is not that bad. For example, the Mountain Maples nursery (5901 Spy Rock Rd, Laytonville, CA 95454, 707-984-6522) has about 80 varieties listed (and some more Acer species, e.g. buergerianum, davidii, etc). I think I remeber from Vertrees' book that he runs a japanese maple nursery as well, so I'd expect he has many of them. The nursery name & location is on the cover jacket, if I remeber correctly ... Disclaimer: I never got any JM by mail order (there's a local place here in Chapel Hill, NC, that has >50 species, enough for me for a while :-), so cannot make any comments on the quality. >in addition to your local nursery, >Wayside Gardens offers some exotic varieties that are worth considering. Wayside prices are utterly ridiculous. Sango kaku maple for $90 ?!?!?! I got one, 3 feet tall, in a local nursery for $35... For a real deal on some rare maples, e.g., davidii, henryi, tegmentosum (and on other rare plants from Japan/China, no Acer palmatum though, other than for unnnamed seedlings), give a call to the Camellia Forest nursery in Chapel Hill (919)-967-5529. Some prices are in single digits and they do mail order. Their plants are excellent - all I ever got from them is alive and well. >As you can tell, I'm hooked. Maybe I shouldn't have told you where to get more, then :-) I am somewhat hooked, too, and know it is a tragic habit (my wife says so, at least :-). KK -- Kris Kozminski kk@wujek.durham.nc.us From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb Thu May 27 00:38:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17680 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb From: barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Source of straw for mulch? Date: 26 May 1993 13:47:30 GMT Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH Lines: 46 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1tvsdi$3pi@meaddata.meaddata.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: firstaid.meaddata.com In article , yoko@research.nj.nec.com (Yoko Ozawa) writes: |> (1) If the straw is supposed to be for bedding/feed for horses, am I |> correct in assuming that I won't need to worry about chemicals |> (pesticides/herbicides)? |> -- BTW, I don't want USED straw, I know that would make a great addition |> to my compost pile, but I'm about the only one who composts and my |> neighbors already look at me funny -- IMAGINE, if I brought horse manure |> home! Straw is (the bottom half of wheat) is used for bedding (horses eat hay). I wouldn't bet you could find any source of straw (or hay) that hadn't had applications of pesticides and herbicides. Look at the size of any wheat field, and the total absence of weeds. No farmer is going to try to grow that much wheat without using chemical controls. Any organic farm probably would grow only enough for their own use, and you'd never find that at a stable. It would be VERY expensive, and stable owners don't pay any more than they have to for anything (horses are expensive enough). I'm the only one in my neighborhood who composts, too, and I bring back a couple of trash bags of "used" bedding from the local stable every now and then. I get the "newer" stuff if I want to add it to the compost heap to fire it up and compost what's already there. The "older" (already composted) stuff you can add almost directly to your garden. It would be the dark piles that look uniform in texture, as opposed to the piles in which you can distinguish the bedding from the manure. I encountered a man at the stable over the week- end who was loading up the older, composted variety, who said his roses "love" the stuff (he mixes it with equal parts soil and sand). The composted stuff has almost no odor, and the newer stuff has very little. I take the bags home, empty them onto the compost heap, and turn it. My neigh- bors (who also look at me funny already) have no idea what I'm adding, if they even notice. Be SURE of one thing - horses (and their "output") carry tetanus. Make sure your tetanus shots are up to date before working in the stuff! -- Barbara Bruns Technical Communications & Education barb@meaddata.com ...!uunet!meaddata!barb The opinions expressed here by me are not necessarily those of Mead Data Central; nor would they much care about the things about which I have opinions. From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!cyclone!cwechter Thu May 27 00:38:40 EDT 1993 Article: 17681 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!cyclone!cwechter From: cwechter@cyclone.mitre.org (Christine G. Wechter) Subject: Flowers for Weddings Message-ID: <1993May26.131514.17649@linus.mitre.org> Originator: cwechter@cyclone Sender: news@linus.mitre.org (News Service) Nntp-Posting-Host: cyclone.mitre.org Organization: Mitre Corporation, McLean, VA Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 13:15:14 GMT Lines: 20 I'm planning my wedding and am looking for a more economical way to get flowers than by buying them from a florist. I was thinking of contacting local garden clubs (I live in Washington DC) to see if any members would be interested in doing the centerpieces for tables at the reception (or any other parts). In thinking this, I was assuming that members of a garden club might know where to get flowers and accessories (containers, etc) more reasonably priced than florist retail prices. Can anybody out there offer guidance or suggestions? Does this sound like it would save me some $$$? How much might be a reasonable charge for someone's time and energy to do this? THanks! Chris cwechter@mitre.org From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Thu May 27 00:38:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17682 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: mantid bet Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: <1993May25.223440.6137@ast.saic.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 14:18:04 GMT Lines: 21 In <1993May25.223440.6137@ast.saic.com> okagaki@kafka.SAIC.COM (Karen Okagaki x6515) writes: >I recently hatched a few thousand praying mantids and released most >in my garden at home. I took 3 mantids in to work, where they now >live in my office garden. >Recently, I have found several mantid "bodies." I am positive that >I brought in 3 baby mantids, about .25 inches long. One died almost >immediately. The two that are left are now 1.5 and 2.5 inches long. >I have found what appear to be 4 dead mantids! >The question is, where did these bodies come from??? Some co-workers >are convinced that mantids shed their skins like snakes. This seems >highly unlikely to me, and so we have a small wager going on. Do >mantids shed their skins? If not, what are these bodies and where >did they come from? Yes, at least the variety that I have seen locally. I have watched one in the process. Very slow. Sorry, hope it wasn't too much money. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!att-out!att!att!bigtop!drutx!corvette!sbs Thu May 27 00:38:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17683 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!att-out!att!att!bigtop!drutx!corvette!sbs From: sbs@corvette.dr.att.com (Sandy Burke Slowey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Loose Rock Retaining Walls Message-ID: <25133@drutx.ATT.COM> Date: 25 May 93 18:35:47 GMT References: <24576@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@drutx.ATT.COM Lines: 49 In article <24576@mindlink.bc.ca>, Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: |> In response to:Janet Buyer:buyer@oasys.dt.navy.mil |> |> >I want to make this a "dry" wall, without using any mortar, except for... |> |> 9)MOST IMPORTANT!!! You will be building the actual wall a few inches out |> from the slope itself. Work up one layer at a time and PACK THE SOIL firmly |> behind the wall as you go. No mortar is fine, no foundation is fine, but if |> you don't pack the backfill, the first heavy rain will turn it to oatmeal. A |> loose rock wall leaning into dirt is very stable. A wall leaning into |> oatmeal quickly reverts to it's natural state - a rockpile. I learned this |> the hard way. |> -Barry & Moira Carlson We had a professional rock wall builder build ours and he avoided this "oatmeal" problem as well as the heaving frozen soil problem, by piling rock rubble behind the wall, sloping the rubble downward toward the dirt side like so: ........= where: .......oo= . is soil ......oooo= o is rock rubble .....ooooo= = is the rock wall ....ooooooo=....................... ...........o....................... Rock rubble could be any rock smaller than the rock wall kind of rock. Since our builder (artist actually) was chiseling the sandstone (squarish) rocks to fit together like a puzzle, he had left over smaller pieces to throw behind the wall. Note that instead of the "few inches out from the slope" that Barry and Moira suggested, this method requires 2-3 feet, depending on the heigth of the wall. Also note that at the bottom of the wall the lowest slab was partly under ground and that underneath that slab was a few inches of pea gravel. Our walls are all 4 feet or less, but our builder has built 10 ft walls using this method I presume. Our wall is truly a work of art and is admired by all that see it. It also has held up beautifully for 5 years, with no ill effects from massive rain or frozen ground. Good luck! Sandy Burke Slowey (303)538-1631 Rm. 1f50 AT&T Bell Laboratories, Denver, Colorado Internet: Sandra.Slowey@att.com or sbs@dr.att.com From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!nj.nec.com!mac-yoko.nj.nec.com!user Thu May 27 00:38:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17684 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!nj.nec.com!mac-yoko.nj.nec.com!user From: yoko@research.nj.nec.com (Yoko Ozawa) Subject: Caterpillar identification please? Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: news@research.nj.nec.com Organization: NEC Research Institute, Inc. Distribution: na Date: Wed, 26 May 93 14:35:26 GMT Lines: 34 Hi everyone. After frantically chasing striped and spotted tent caterpillars for the past two weeks (I'd say I collected about a 1/4 bucket full!), things are finally starting to calm down in my South Jersey garden. However, I've come across another caterpillar that I can't identify. DESCRIPTION: black body with red spot covered with long strait yellow hair. Three black "horns" -- two on the head, one on the tail. (Very pretty critters, really.) They seem to use silk safety lines. They (4 or 5 of them) are on a locust tree trunk. Since I put up a wide swath of Gypsy Moth tape on the tree, these guys aren't going anywhere, but they are not going away either. When they get blown off the tree, they hang there (from the silk) and then eventually climb back up and congregate around -- but not on (the clever buggers) -- the bottom of the tape. The poor locust tree is also infested with aphids (they seem to be coming up the trunk and are getting stuck on the bottom part of the tape) and also has a borer hole (the tape caught three ugly looking grey-brown, hairless caterpillars -- are they it?). I plan on squirting some nematodes in the hole as soon as my order arrives, since I heard that they help to kill the borers. (If there's something else I could use right now (hot pepper solution? neem?), please let me know). I've been watching the caterpillars for a week, and they seem to be growing (biggest one is about 1" now) even though it doesn't seem like there are anything for them to eat (the tree sits on a mulched, cleared area with hardly any vegetation). I'd like to know whether they are pests and should be gotten rid of before they grow up to be adult whatever. Thanks for your help!! :-) -- yoko From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm Thu May 27 00:38:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17685 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm From: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (Tom Dugan) Subject: Re: labels for rose gardens?? Message-ID: Keywords: retentiveness, memory lapse Sender: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (SSGM) Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC References: <143740002@capella.cup.hp.com> <1993May25.165920.1166@newstand.syr.edu> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 15:00:11 GMT Lines: 33 In article <1993May25.165920.1166@newstand.syr.edu>, jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) writes: |> I don't know a source for rose labels, sorry, but am curious as to how |> many of us label our gardens? (Description of seemingly normal (IMHO) behavior deleted) |> |> Do any of the rest of you have this compulsion? Is it normal, or is it a sign |> of something??? Do you label with scientific or common names, or both??? |> |> %:^) |> |> Judith Reed |> jareed@syr.edu |> Yes, it's normal. For the longest time, I'd suffer each spring not knowing which little sprout was a perennial or a killer weed from hell, so I wouldn't pull it. Usually, of course, it was a weed, but SOMETIMES it was something valuable that the previous owner had planted. Finally it dawned on me that if I marked it, I could find it next year. Then I started using them to mark what plants in a clump had what colors (eg columbine) so I could keep the seeds separate. I generally mark them with common names unless I know the exact scientific name (and I generally don't with the older plants). I think this is an example of mankind's need to categorize and name things. For me, it is a way to rise above garden chaos. Tom Dugan ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil PS I generally use white or natural popsicle stick labels almost completely buried (to remain unobrusive), saving my aluminum markers from Smith & Hawken (a birthday present, honest) for the fancier plants. From samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!almserv!mardigras!s5uagm Thu May 27 00:38:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17686 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!almserv!mardigras!s5uagm From: s5uagm@fnma.COM (Andrew Miller) Subject: Re: labels for rose gardens?? Message-ID: <1993May26.150328.29038@almserv.uucp> Sender: usenet@almserv.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: mardigras Reply-To: s5uagm@fnma.COM Organization: Fannie Mae References: <1993May25.165920.1166@newstand.syr.edu> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 15:03:28 GMT Lines: 19 In article 1166@newstand.syr.edu, jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) writes: > >Do any of the rest of you have this compulsion? Is it normal, or is it a sign >of something??? Do you label with scientific or common names, or both??? > >%:^) If it is a sign of something please let me know. I label my herbs with their scientific names. It keeps everyone else guessing what exactly it is I'm putting in their meals. ;^) I'm also pretty religious about labeling my Iris species/cultivars, and Dahlia cultivars. But, I hope this is pretty common. > >Judith Reed - Andrew - From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!almserv!mardigras!s5uagm Thu May 27 00:38:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17687 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!almserv!mardigras!s5uagm From: s5uagm@fnma.COM (Andrew Miller) Subject: Re: mantid bet Message-ID: <1993May26.151159.29329@almserv.uucp> Sender: usenet@almserv.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: mardigras Reply-To: s5uagm@fnma.COM Organization: Fannie Mae References: <1993May25.223440.6137@ast.saic.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 15:11:59 GMT Lines: 18 In article 6137@ast.saic.com, okagaki@kafka.SAIC.COM (Karen Okagaki x6515) writes: >I recently hatched a few thousand praying mantids and released most >in my garden at home. I took 3 mantids in to work, where they now >live in my office garden. > >... The two that are left are now 1.5 and 2.5 inches long.... > >Karen > >okagaki@kafka.saic.com You must have a pretty buggy office for the Mantids to survive! I hope you're not in a "Secure" area there at SAIC. The NSA would be worried about your office being "bugged". :) - Andrew - From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!convex!sunova!wsmith.ssc.gov!user Thu May 27 13:43:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17688 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!convex!sunova!wsmith.ssc.gov!user From: (Wes Smith) Subject: Re: Snake question Message-ID: <1993May26.152053.713@sunova.ssc.gov> Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@sunova.ssc.gov (News Admin) Nntp-Posting-Host: wsmith.ssc.gov Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory References: <1993May11.f78bd@f8.n154.z1.fidonet.org> <1993May25.135508.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 15:20:53 GMT Lines: 31 In article <1993May25.135508.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca>, thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca wrote: (J. Decker's Snake Adventure Deleted) > You did the right thing to let it go on it's > way. In Ontario the black rat snake, which gets to something like > 6 to 8' and can climb trees too, is endangered because when one is > encountered many people's first reaction is to kill it. (They don't > pose a danger to people.) Rat snakes have very small teeth (no danger to people) which tend to get ripped out when they bite in self defense. They develop infections and often die from the act of biting something. Most rat snakes are constrictors and thus have little use for aggresive biting, the teeth merely grasp the victim until the snake can wrap it in his coils (about 1/2 second). Long way of saying, rat snakes won't bite until they absolutely have to. I've caught and released at least a dozen rat snakes without ever having been bit (and 100+ insect eating Garter and Hognose snakes). Even rattlesnakes are reluctant to strike and won't if given an opportunity to escape (the exception being when they are surprised immediately prior to shedding skin). Snakes are quite valuable to gardeners, I have read that each rattlesnake killed costs farmers a bale of cotton due to the rats, rabbits, etc. that were not eaten by the snake. If you are finding rat snakes, they are being attracted by the resident rodents. Which would you rather have - rodents, with all their known problems, or snakes which are virtually harmless? Wes Smith (in memory of my pet red rat snake Jethro, 1981-1987) From samba!concert!gatech!news.ans.net!cmcl2!netnews!jpmgate!tcpg02!vanadium!mmanago Thu May 27 13:43:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17689 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!news.ans.net!cmcl2!netnews!jpmgate!tcpg02!vanadium!mmanago From: mmanago@vanadium.ny.jpmorgan.com (Maria) Subject: Re: catlitter in the compost pile Message-ID: <1993May26.135050.6715@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com> Sender: news@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com (USENET News System) Reply-To: mmanago@vanadium.ny.jpmorgan.com Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. References: <1993May26.044613.14342@math.ucla.edu> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 13:50:50 GMT Lines: 17 In article 14342@math.ucla.edu, ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: >Ah, the old used cat litter discussion! > >If you decide to take a chance and toss your used litter and cat yum-yums >onto the old compost heap, make sure to block access of your heap to >any pet dogs. > >I learned to my horror when I took in a stray dog that these creatures >look upon cat feces as the next best thing to vanilla ice cream. When a dog >gets hold of one of them, and starts to chew on it, a look of pure rapture >comes onto their faces. It'd be kinda cute if it weren't so disgusting. Alice My dog runs straight to the litter box when I let her in the cat's room. I have to run to beat her to it so that she doesn't eat the poop.(and she's so fast, as if she knows shes not supposed to be doing this, she quickly gulps it down) I am constantly keeping it clean because I'm afraid she might get at it. Do you know if there is any danger to her when she eats the cat feces? Ughh it makes me sick just thinking about it. Thanks, Maria From samba!concert!duke!kk Thu May 27 13:43:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17690 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!duke!kk From: kk@duke.cs.duke.edu (Krzysztof Kozminski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Astilbe, shady stuff Message-ID: <738421548@stego.cs.duke.edu> Date: 26 May 93 13:05:49 GMT References: <1993May24.192920.13415@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> Organization: Duke University Computer Science Dept.; Durham, N.C. Lines: 29 In article <1993May24.192920.13415@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> krueger@ssd.comm.mot.com writes: >I am search of a source for Astilbes. (...) Are there any mail order houses >that might still supply them ?? Shady Oaks Nursery might have them (they are in Minnesota, so I presume their shipping season starts rather late). Their catalog looks great, but I haven't ordered anything from them (yet), so cannot vouch for the quality. They do guarantee replacement of failed plants. They are at 112 10th Ave S.E., Waseca, Minnesota 56094, tel 507-835-5033, fax 507-835-8772. Most of their stuff is hardy to zone 4 or better. Don't get anything from Michigan Bulb. Astilbes from Springhill did grow for me OK. Niche Gardens in NC (address in FAQ) has a fairly large selection of shady plants, but NC-grown stuff might not make it up North. >And since I am speaking about shady plants, I would like to ask if >there are any other interesting shade plants besides the usual ferns, >hostas, impatiens, etc. I have a lot of tree cover and very little >sunlight and I would like to develop a real nice, thick shaded area. There are too many interesting shade plants to list... check out either of the following books: Complete Shade Gardener by G.Schenk and The Natural Shade Garden by K.Druse. Shade Gardening(?) booklet in Ortho series is OK and cheap. KK -- Kris Kozminski kk@wujek.durham.nc.us From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cac.psu.edu!cac.psu.edu!gho Thu May 27 13:43:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17691 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cac.psu.edu!cac.psu.edu!gho From: gho@cac.psu.edu (George H. Otto) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: labels for rose gardens?? Date: 26 May 1993 16:40:46 GMT Organization: Penn State University, Center for Academic Computing Lines: 43 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1u06if$dd1@genesis.ait.psu.edu> References: <143740002@capella.cup.hp.com> <1993May25.165920.1166@newstand.syr.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: curtiss.cac.psu.edu Keywords: retentiveness I've just picked up on the middle of this thread, so I apologize if any of this doesn't fit. Also for the length of this post, I'm not sure to whom I should E-mail any of this: To the person looking for rose markers, I bought some of the zinc metal plate rose markers from Park Seed Co. this spring. They are about 12" high (before inserting into the ground) with about 1 3/4" by 3 1/2" inch label area. The rectangular labels slide over U-shaped wire legs to that they are angled slightly upward for easier reading. I got 50 of them for under $20.00 (it was either 15.95 or 19.95, I can't recall). Park's address is Park's Seed, Cokesbury Road, PO Box 46, Greenwood, SC 29648-0046. Now, regarding labeling habits in the garden. I started growing perennials about four years ago. I first labeled with popsicle sticks, which don't work at all. Then I used the extra slats from some newly installed vinyl mini-blinds to make some larger and more durable labels. These work fine, but the ink from the permanent markers I use isn't so very permanent after all, and the large white labels really look pretty crappy when the plants have died back or are just coming on in the spring. So this year I am trying the zinc markers, which, to my eye, look much better in the garden and are much easier for guests to read (the main reason for labels, in my opinion). The jury is still out on permanence. I just used the black pencil that shipped with the zinc markers to label them. Also, the zinc markers leave plenty of room for both the latin binomials and a common name. The only problem I see with the zinc is that the edges are somewhat sharp, and, as we have young kids and numerous neighbor young kids running around all the time, I'm a bit concerned about someone tripping over them. It won't be a problem when the plants are bushy, but early spring could be. I may take them in over the winter. Labeling isn't retentive. It increases the fun of gardening to know what you're growing and to share that knowledge with others. Trying to find homes (other than the compost heap) for all those "perfectly good" plants we divide each year is the biggest anal trap for gardeners. George Otto Graphics Programmer Penn State From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!usenet.coe.montana.edu!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Thu May 27 13:43:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17692 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!usenet.coe.montana.edu!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: I want a quick, living fence Message-ID: <1993May26.165528.14224@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Distribution: na Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 16:55:28 GMT Lines: 31 In article: <1993May25.163006.9209@pony.Ingres.COM> tad@Ingres.COM (Tom Drynda) suggests: >In article <21MAY93.16325896@pattie.wellesley.edu> mwolf@pattie.wellesley.edu writes: >| I need to install a visual barrier, approximately 24' wide and 6' >| I live in southern Worcester County, Massachusetts, which is in inland >| southern New England. >| Thanks in advance for any sugestions! >| Mur Wolf > > How about some Rosemary. I planted some a few months ago > > Tom. But, Tom, you are in California. I couldn't find a Zone rating for rosemary, but 'America's Garden Book' rates it as a TENDER perenial (according both the newer version and the 1940's version). None of my other books had information about USDA zones for rosemary either. Here in inland southern New England, (Zone 5) 'tender perennial' usually means it dies back in the winter but the roots may pull through (if you are lucky) :'). --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Thu May 27 13:43:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17693 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: Do BIG white pine trees topple easily? Message-ID: <1993May26.165939.14408@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Distribution: usa Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 16:59:39 GMT Lines: 55 >Newsgroups: rec.gardens >Subject: Do BIG white pine trees topple easily? >Organization: The MITRE Corp., Bedford, Ma. >Distribution: usa In article: <1993May25.164815.6419@linus.mitre.org> vv@mbunix.mitre.org (Ventrone) asks: >I have a white pine tree in front of my house which is at least 60 feet >tall and 3 1/2 feet in diameter. Also, the trunk forks about 10 feet >from the ground, and one of the forks divides again about 15 feet farther >up. Every time there is a high wind I think about that tree. I have >heard that white pines have shallow root systems, and that forks in the >trunk are areas that can turn into cavities. Also, the soil is quite >sandy. > >Should I be concerned about this tree toppling onto my house someday? >Or possibly splitting where the trunk forks? > >It is a great tree--is there anything I can do to reduce any risk? > >Thanks. >-- > Vince Ventrone > The MITRE Corporation "...In my opinion, there's nothing > Bedford, MA 01730 in this world beats a '52 Vincent > vav@mitre.org and a redheaded girl." -- Richard Thompson Move? The answer to your concerns is yes and yes, but, it hasn't fallen yet has it? Seriously, we have a huge white-pine behind our house which is on a hillside. The hillside which is pretty pure sand has eroded away from under half of it. It has been that way for the 25 years that we have lived in our house and is still in good shape. You should probably consult a good arborist. I would consider pruning (NOTE: NOT TOPPING) to minimize any large side branches. They are what usually snap with heavy snow. And if there are lots of large side branches the wind pushes a lot harder on it in a windstorm. If the pine is southeast of your house you have little to worry about (unless the roots are under your foundation). We almost never have strong winds from that direction. Exception: Hurricanes, if the eye is positioned right (or wrong?). --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Thu May 27 13:43:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17694 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: Labels for rose garden Message-ID: <1993May26.170215.14566@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Distribution: usa Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 17:02:15 GMT Lines: 28 In article: fzbaker@dale.ucdavis.edu (Sharon D. Baker) suggests: >I have gone to my local nursery and purchased white plastic plant >markers--they look somewhat like popsicle sticks or tongue depressers, with >one end pointed, and the other straight across. They come in "cards" of 6, >perforated between each "stick". You see them in pots at the nursery >listing what the plant is, or sometimes listing the price. There seem to >be two different sizes-- I get the larger size (they are longer). Each card >costs around 48 cents. You use an indelible felt marking pen on these, and >stick them in front of your plant. They should >last a long time, and even if I have to replace them periodically, they >are still MUCH cheaper than those metal markers that you can buy from >Jackson & Perkins > > -- Sharon D. Baker sdbaker@ucdavis.edu (916) 752-9946 I make my own from plastic milk jugs. Just cut them up with scissors and use the same indelible marker. --Jill (aka Ms. Frugal) -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Thu May 27 13:43:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17695 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: How do I kill weeds Message-ID: <1993May26.170445.14743@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 17:04:45 GMT Lines: 50 In article: kunda@hanuman.Eng.Sun.COM (Ramachandra P. Kunda) asks: >I would like to find out all organic and inorganic way to get rid of >the weeds. Also, how long do the weed killers last in the soil? > >Thanks, >ram Organic: 1. Pull them up. For best results remove them from the garden and compost or burn the weeds. Some weeds easily replant themselves if you leave them lying in the garden. 2. Put down a mulch on the soil, preferably before the weeds get large and husky. This shades them out and some weed seeds will not start to grow unless they are exposed to light. Inorganic: (someone else should fill this in because I only know a couple) 1. Roundup - active ingredient glyphosphate - there was a long discussion here about this a couple of months ago. I think it is supposed to be short-lived in the soil, but there were some comments that that might not be so. It kills most plants that are actively growing (with a few exceptions). This is my herbicide of preference for poison ivy. 2. Safer SharpShooter - active ingredient 'potasium salts of fatty acids' - not very effective in my experience. It is supposed to kill most plants. 3. Ortho Weed-B-Gon and others - active ingredient is 2-4-D - kills only broad-leafed plants. I wouldn't touch the stuff with a 10-ft pole, now. I have a spray can which I won't throw in the trash, but which the haz-waste recycling won't take (a GOOD reason not to buy spray cans unless they are pump-spray) 2-4-D is a very strong poison, closely related to Agent Orange. I used it in some botany experiments in college (way before Nam) and I still worry about what effects my exposure to it may cause in the future. It was being tried, in VERY small doses, as a growth enhancer, because it kills by speeding up the growth of the plant until the plant grows itself to death. In small (VERY small) doses, it will cause your plants to grow faster. (Did I get that right, Kay?) There surely are others but someone else will have to describe them. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Thu May 27 13:43:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17696 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: How to get rid of "bloodroots"? Message-ID: <1993May26.170701.14987@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Distribution: usa Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 17:07:01 GMT Lines: 55 In article: <1993May25.164235.6014@linus.mitre.org> vv@mbunix.mitre.org (Ventrone) asks: >The property around my house is covered about 2/3s by woods, and much of >the ground is quite wet. As soon as you enter the woodsy areas, the ground >is covered by a weed I always referred to as "bloodroot". I don't know the >latin name but I can describe them: they start growing about the beginning >of May, to a hight of about 3 feet, a single slender stem that is very >fleshy and wet (almost translucent). The leaves cluster at the top, and >are oval with serrated edges. The very bottom of the plant is red, and the >root are very shallow and also red (hence the nickname I've always used.) >They are easy to pull out, but difficult to break because the stems are very >fibrous. > >I wish to be rid of these things, but don't want to harm the ferns and >Jack-in-the-Pulpits that they share the ground with. > >Any suggestions from netland? > >Thanks much. >-- > Vince Ventrone > The MITRE Corporation "...In my opinion, there's nothing > Bedford, MA 01730 in this world beats a '52 Vincent > vav@mitre.org and a redheaded girl." -- Richard Thompson Glad you put 'bloodroots' in quotes. There is a wildflower named Bloodroot which is a whole nother thing and very desirable. I think what you are referring to is Impatiens (common names Jewelweed, Spotted Touch-Me-Not) which grows very thickly in damp, shady areas. It can get fairly bushy if it is not too crowded. It is reputed to be a good antidote to poison ivy rash. You crush the sappy stem and rub the juice on the rash. Jewelweed produces its seeds in green pods which spring open at the slightest touch when they are ripe. I like to entice friends and other children to tap the tips of the pods. They really jump when it pops. :') I've never had to remove these plants, but they certainly do grow thickly in some places. I would probably hand pull the plants and compost them. Any herbicide will kill your Jack-in-the-Pulpits. I really don't know about how persistent and long-lived the seeds are in the soil. Hopefully they are short-lived and after a couple of years you won't have many. Like Kay said, you are likely to get something worse if you remove them. If you think I am wrong in my identification, you can bring a few out to my house and I'll i.d. them for you. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!ibmoto.com!allen Thu May 27 13:43:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17697 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!ibmoto.com!allen From: allen%ibmoto.com@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Allen Hebert) Subject: ADVICE: on Cactus Message-ID: <1993May26.163433.6383@ibmoto.com> Originator: allen@pokey.ibmoto.com Keywords: cactus transplanting Sender: allen@ibmoto.com (Allen Hebert) Organization: IBM/Motorola Somerset, Austin, TX Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 16:34:33 GMT Lines: 17 I need some advice on replanting a cactus. There are some wild cactus growing in the vacant lots next door and I would like to transplant them into some pots that I have. I am a novice at gardening and general plant care and so I turn to someone with more experience for advice. Do I need to dig up the whole cactus or can I break off part of it and plant it. If so, what is the proper procedure to do this? How can I keep the cactus alive after the replant. If someone knows of some good how-to books, please reply. Thanks -- *---------------------------------------------------------------------* | Allen Hebert | allen%ibmoto.com@oakhill.sps.mot.com | | Motorola-Austin | | | Systems/Network Engineering | (512) 795-7306 | From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker Thu May 27 13:43:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17698 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!fzbaker From: fzbaker@dale.ucdavis.edu (Sharon D. Baker) Subject: Re: Rust on Roses (chemical angst) Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Administrator) Organization: University of California, Davis X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3 References: <143740001@capella.cup.hp.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 17:28:04 GMT Lines: 16 According to the "Gardens Alive" catalog, copper controls rust on roses. The catalog has both copper dust and liquid copper. Gardens Alive handles only "environmentally responsible, organic products for a health garden.: The address is: Gardens Alive 5100 Schenley Place Lawrenceburg, IN 47025 Phone # (812) 537-8650 -- Sharon D. Baker sdbaker@ucdavis.edu (916) 752-9946 From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.intercon.com!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Thu May 27 13:43:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17699 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.intercon.com!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: Saving bulbs from bugs Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: <1993May24.192633.25531@SanDiego.NCR.COM> <1993May25.133606.1381@cvsd.cv.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 14:46:36 GMT Lines: 16 I just want to second the notion of growing the South African bulbs, and other Mediterranean climate bulbs, in our Mediterranean climate on the California coast. They're a tad bit harder to find, perhaps, though many good nurseries have them. With babianas, you get lots of shades of purple, blue, with white or magentas mixed in. Sparaxis: lots of colors, but often selected for the red-yellow- maroon combo. Ixias, most often in pinks: tall wand-like stems. Watsonias mostly in pinks or white, but I did just find an orange one with a magenta throat. Tritonias: I have one batch in hot orange, another in peach. And there's nothing to arouse comment like a clump of Dieramas, their 5-foot "Fairy Wands" dancing in the breeze, with dangling strings of pinks bells. Why fight it? Many of the plants I know from my Midwestern youth are a struggle to grow here, they were bred and selected to flourish in the European climate. Grow something marvellous, different and easy. From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme Thu May 27 13:43:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17700 of rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lims01.lerc.nasa.gov!cazimme From: cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: catlitter in the compost pile Date: 26 May 1993 15:03 EST Organization: NASA Lewis Research Center Lines: 28 Distribution: world Message-ID: <26MAY199315035387@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> References: <1993May26.044613.14342@math.ucla.edu> <1993May26.135050.6715@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: lims01.lerc.nasa.gov News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 In article <1993May26.135050.6715@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com>, mmanago@vanadium.ny.jpmorgan.com writes... >In article 14342@math.ucla.edu, ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: >>Ah, the old used cat litter discussion! >> Stuff deleted > >Alice I had trouble with my news reader here, but Maria asks if there are any dangers to dogs eating cat poop. >Maria Anyway, my dog has had the tendency for the last year to gobble down his poop everytime he goes into the backyard (talk about recycling !). I guess I'm sorta ambivalent - it saves me the trouble of picking the stuff up, but the dog always wants to lick my face right afterwards. The vet said that it was a "disgusting but harmless habit". She also said that there were powders that you could put on the dog's food that would make the poop taste bad (though how you make anything unappetizing to a dog that eats poop is beyond me). Its possible that the same stuff could be put on the cat's food. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Marty Zimmerman | There are three types of lies; cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov | lies, damn lies, and statistics Analex Corp. NASA Lewis Cleveland | - Mark Twain --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!ux1.cts.eiu.edu!csjan Thu May 27 13:43:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17701 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!ux1.cts.eiu.edu!csjan From: csjan@ux1.cts.eiu.edu (Jan B. Faires) Subject: Re: I want a quick, living fence Message-ID: <1993May26.190233.50428@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 19:02:33 GMT Distribution: na References: <1993May26.165528.14224@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Organization: Eastern Illinois University Lines: 14 My best suggestion is forsythia; it's hardy, vigorous (or however you spell it), beautiful and will easily give you little plants in a few years for filling in any thin spots. Lilac is also nice, although it grows more slowly and tends to get mildew -- but the fragrance in the Spring can't be beat! Forsythia gets 6-7 feet tall, lilac taller, maybe 10'. Do you want a lower fence than that? I've seen hedge roses advertised that look interesting, only get 3-4' tall. -- Jan Faires, EIU, Charleston, IL 61920 csjan@ux1.cts.eiu.edu The Biosphere II, which is supposed to represent a balanced sampling of life on Earth, contains over 3,500 species of plants, animals, From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!fs!nntp_server!empros.com!joannek Thu May 27 13:43:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17702 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!fs!nntp_server!empros.com!joannek From: joannek@empros.com (Joanne Kube-Harderwijk) Subject: Re: labels for rose gardens?? Sender: news@empros.com (ems-news) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 18:54:54 GMT Distribution: usa Reply-To: joannek@empros.com References: <1993May25.165920.1166@newstand.syr.edu> <1993May26.150328.29038@almserv.uucp> Nntp-Posting-Host: northstar.empros.com Organization: Empros Power Systems Control, a division of Siemens EA Lines: 26 In article <1993May26.150328.29038@almserv.uucp>, s5uagm@fnma.COM (Andrew Miller) writes: |> In article 1166@newstand.syr.edu, jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) writes: |> > |> >Do any of the rest of you have this compulsion? Is it normal, or is it a sign |> >of something??? Do you label with scientific or common names, or both??? |> > |> >%:^) |> |> If it is a sign of something please let me know. I label my herbs with |> their scientific names. It keeps everyone else guessing what exactly it is I'm |> putting in their meals. ;^) |> |> I'm also pretty religious about labeling my Iris species/cultivars, and |> Dahlia cultivars. But, I hope this is pretty common. ********************************* |> |> > |> >Judith Reed |> |> - Andrew - |> Actually, I think most of wish we labeled things, however, we never really get around to it. :-) Joanne Kube-Harderwijk From samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!robin Thu May 27 13:43:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17703 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!robin From: robin@netcom.com (Robin Rosenberg) Subject: Re: Labels For Rose Garden Message-ID: Organization: The Rosenberg Group, Sunnyvale, CA References: <24693@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 18:23:31 GMT Lines: 20 A source for labels is: Harlane Company, Inc. 266 Orangeburgh Road Old Tappan, NJ 07675 They'll custom print rose names, but they also sell blank labels in case you want to label other types of plants. Roses are the only things I label in my garden, mainly because I've got 80 of them and after a while (especially after pruning), I can't tell what's what. I do think they look nice in a formal herb garden (particularly if you have "old fashioned-looking" labels, perhaps done in calligraphy). -- Robin Rosenberg robin@netcom.com "Growing roses makes every day seem like Valentine's Day." From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!sedona.EBay.Sun.COM!ctyuan Thu May 27 13:43:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17704 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!sedona.EBay.Sun.COM!ctyuan From: ctyuan@sedona.EBay.Sun.COM (Chi-Tao Yuan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Landscape Dilemma Date: 27 May 1993 00:06:17 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems Inc., Mountain View, CA Lines: 17 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1u10lp$hms@male.EBay.Sun.COM> Reply-To: ctyuan@sedona.EBay.Sun.COM (Chi-Tao Yuan) NNTP-Posting-Host: sedona.ebay.sun.com A friend of mine is in need of suggestions as to how to re-landscape her front yard. The following facts are for your consideration: 1. Standard California tract home. 2. There is a huge, yes I mean landmark-size, pine in the front yard. She does not want to get rid of it. 3. The entire front yard only receives early morning and late afternoon sun for about a couple of hours a day. For the rest of the day, it is in the shade. 4. The new landscape needs to be such that the fallen pine needles can be easily raked or cleaned up. Any suggestion as to what to do shall be greatly appreciated. Chi From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam Thu May 27 23:13:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17705 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam From: stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Cold damage (?) to Tomatoes Date: 26 May 1993 19:55:11 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 20 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: m66-452-1.mit.edu In-reply-to: stngiam@athena.mit.edu's message of 24 May 1993 15:13:53 GMT > We had a cold wet spell (rain & day temperatures below 55 F) several >days after I transplanted my tomatoes outside. The lower leaves on many >of the plants now have brown-yellow spots on them. Are those just signs >of cold damage, or are they something more sinister, like disease? Thanks to the serveral people who replied to me by mail and on the net. My diagnosis at the moment is that my tomatoes were just suffering from transplant shock aggravated by the cold weather. The younger leaves still look healthy, so I think the plants are okay. David Robinson gave me a pointer to the Master Gardener Information gopher at taex-gopher1.tamu.edu. I also found another gopher site, bigcat.missouri.edu, that has gardening guides online (Univ. Missouri Horticulture Guides) Shih Tung From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!NewsWatcher!user Thu May 27 23:13:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17706 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!NewsWatcher!user From: jkwallac@uci.edu (Janis Wallace) Subject: Advice?: Avacado Trees Nntp-Posting-Host: 128.200.136.126 Message-ID: Newsgroups: rec.gardens Organization: UC Irvine Lines: 42 Date: 26 May 93 19:48:27 GMT Followup-To: rec.gardens Hi, everyone. I need some advice. We just purchased a beautiful older home (built in 1925) in North Santa Ana. It is on a half acre which is loaded with fruit trees of all kinds which are blooming like crazy. All except the avacado trees. BTW, the house has been vacant for more than a year (Note: don't EVER buy a FSBO probate sale home from 3 brothers who don't get along with each other and live in 3 different parts of the country - it took over 6 months!!). Anyway, back to the point. The sellers did maintain a gardner who kept the grounds very neat, but it's apparent that no pruning of any sort was done. There are 2 huge avacado trees (probably 30 feet tall). They are so overgrown that you can't even see the trunk. (I had no idea they were so viney!). Their viney branches are all over the ground, other trees, the fence etc., and it actually almost looks like an overgrown (large) star jasmine plant. Last November, it was covered with fruit, as were all of the citrus trees. The citrus have already gone through their blossom stage and fruit is beginning to appear, but nothing on the avacados. New leaves are appearing, but no blossoms. My questions are: 1. Could the overgrown state hinder fruit production? 2. Do they only produce in the winter months? 3. Would giving it a radical prunning damage or kill it? 4. Would it be better to gradually prune it back to a normal state? I really would appreciate any thoughts/advice any of you have on this. Thanks, Janis ---------- Janis Wallace University of California, Irvine Executive Vice Chancellor's Office jkwallac@uci.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Thu May 27 23:13:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17707 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Collecting Snakes Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 20:38:31 GMT Lines: 16 I have noted a number of snake enthusiasts (Wes Smith, Thacker et al) posting to rec.gardens and wanted to know their hints for locating snakes. I live in Eastern Ontario and am particularly interested in finding smaller insectivores such as garters and grass snakes. However, the prospect of rodents and the fact that I have only ever seen one snake larger than 3' in the wild makes me curious about the habits of species such as the recently discussed black rat snake. I used to have little trouble finding garters at nature reserves, but the tip I got from several people about sunny rocks in the woods has never panned out. What about under stumps etc for small grass snakes? Any info you can pass along relative to my part of the continent is appreciated. Thanks in advance From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!cs.umd.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams Thu May 27 23:13:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17708 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!cs.umd.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams) Subject: Re: help: tasteless oregano Message-ID: <1993May26.142846.13916@hemlock.cray.com> Lines: 13 Nntp-Posting-Host: cherry10 Reply-To: dadams@cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993May25.114847.17743@hemlock.cray.com> Date: 26 May 93 14:28:46 CDT I just read in Rhodales Encyclopedia of Herbs, that oregano is usually tasteless, and that you really need to get cuttings from a plant with good taste to ensure that you get a good crop. --- --David C. Adams Statistician Cray Research Inc. dadams@cray.com -Sourdough and Ham- N0WWN Old Cowboys never die. They just smell that way! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!cs.umd.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!jjd Thu May 27 23:13:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17709 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!cs.umd.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!jjd From: jjd@sumac09.cray.com (Jeff Drummond) Subject: Re: Loose Rock Retaining Walls Message-ID: <1993May26.152815.18333@hemlock.cray.com> Originator: jjd@sumac09 Lines: 10 Sender: jjd@sumac09 (Jeff Drummond) Nntp-Posting-Host: sumac09 Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <24576@mindlink.bc.ca> <25133@drutx.ATT.COM> Date: 26 May 93 15:28:14 CDT I believe _Old_House_Journal_ had an article on building loose rock retaining walls in a recent issue. -Jeff jjd@cray.com -- Matter: A degenerate, sticky substance which precipitates out of low-energy quarks. If you notice clumps of matter, it's a sure sign that your universe has exploded. The matter will usually collapse back into a singularity on its own; but if not, try increasing your gravitational constant. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews Thu May 27 23:13:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17710 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer) Subject: Re: Rhubarb Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 20:51:32 GMT References: <1993May25.125358.16435@syma.sussex.ac.uk> Nntp-Posting-Host: jurassic.ch.apollo.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard Corporation, Chelmsford, MA Lines: 15 In article <1993May25.125358.16435@syma.sussex.ac.uk> andy@syma.sussex.ac.uk (Andy Clews) writes: >While there's a thread running about Rhubarb, I thought it might be worth >pointing out that rhubarb leaves can be used to make an effective organic >insecticide. Basically you boil up a few pounds of rhubarb leaves in a few >pints of water for about 15 or 20 minutes, allow to cool, then strain the >liquid into a suitable container. Dissolve some soap flakes in this liquid >and use it to spray against aphids. Are you sure it isn't just the soap itself doing the killing? Around here, the Japanese beetles are certainly always happy to chow down on my rhubarb leaves... -- "I feel lightheaded, Sam. I think my brain | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com is out of air. But it's kind of a neat | /HP/org/chart/says/you/are/here feeling..." --Freelance Police | Massachusetts Language Lab From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!spanky!melissa Thu May 27 23:13:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17711 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!spanky!melissa From: melissa@spanky.Jpl.Nasa.Gov (Melissa Probst) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Peanut Plant Date: 26 May 1993 21:47:30 GMT Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory, Pasadena, CA Lines: 16 Distribution: na Message-ID: <1u0ohi$6vr@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: spanky.jpl.nasa.gov My son brought home a peanut plant from school about a month ago. We planted in our backyard and seems to be doing well. My question: Do any of you know when we can harvest the peanuts? Thanks, Melissa -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Melissa Probst System Administrator Jet Propulsion Laboratory 4800 Oak Grove 301-250D Pasadena, CA 91109 email: melissa@spanky.jpl.nasa.gov From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Thu May 27 23:13:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17712 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Flowering chives Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <1tr34rINNgce@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> <1993May24.201410.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 21:43:36 GMT Lines: 32 In article <1993May24.201410.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca writes: >In article <1tr34rINNgce@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu>, Laura Uerling writes: >> I have some chives in my garden that are growing like crazy and >> producing lots of purple flowers. I know it's generally not a good idea >> to let herbs go to seed, but at what point should I cut off the >> flower/seed head? Now? When they start producing seeds? And what will >> happen if I don't? >> >> I suppose that I could just chop 'em off now to be safe, but there's not >> much color in my garden yet, and the purple flowers are rather pretty. >> :-) >> Laura > >Chives are vigorous enough that flowering won't diminish the growth of >the plant. I left mine to go to seed last year, now I have a million >unwanted chive plants springing up everywhere around the main plant. >So you might want to consider removing the heads when the flowering >is over. Personally, I find chives so mild tasting....read BLAND... >that I ONLY grow them for the flower display. What I like to do with chives is mix lots of chopped tops into plain youghurt. Let sit for the flavors to mix (can sit in the fridge). This makes an excellent low-fat dressing for baked potatoes, and is a good dip for cut veggies, and I even spread it on toast for a snack. I would grow chives just for chive-youghurt spread. John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!eclnews!wucs1!johnson Thu May 27 23:13:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17713 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!eclnews!wucs1!johnson From: johnson@wucs1.wustl.edu (Sahnny Johnson) Subject: plant ID/phosphate Message-ID: <1993May26.215421.10321@wuecl.wustl.edu> Sender: usenet@wuecl.wustl.edu (News Administrator) Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 21:54:21 GMT Lines: 17 Pulling myself back together after reading the exchange about poop-eating dogs, I have two questions to submit to the collected wisdom: 1. I seem to have planted a perennial/wild flower that has leaves that look like a geranium (the wild kind, not the annual things) but mottled, and the flower is a cluster of small, fuzzy white blooms -- a cluster being about the size of a golf ball. Is it a geranium? 2. I have acquired a sack of super-phosphate, having read in the NY Times that application of same strengthens the stems of plants. Question is, if I just toss it around in the garden, will it burn the leaves or my plants? Do I have to be careful that it touch nothing but soil? Thanks for any enlightenment you can provide. Sahnny From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews Thu May 27 23:13:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17714 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer) Subject: Re: Butterflies Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 21:38:38 GMT References: <2250@giga.slc.paramax.com> <1993May25.140011.26788@bradford.ac.uk> Nntp-Posting-Host: jurassic.ch.apollo.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard Corporation, Chelmsford, MA Lines: 61 In article <1993May25.140011.26788@bradford.ac.uk> N.W.R.Ayres@bradford.ac.uk (NWR AYRES) writes: >Eileen Noel (noel@advtech.slc.paramax.com) wrote: >: Our city has a problem with gypsy moths, which "they" are >: attempting to control with bacillus thurengiensis (excuse my >: spelling). As a result of this process I have seen *no* >: butterflies in my garden this spring. I miss these "flying >: flowers" desperately and was wondering if there is a way >: to "plant" chrysalises, just as we sometimes "plant" praying >: mantis eggs. Anyone have ideas as to sources, possibilities, >: etc.? > >When will "they" learn from Silent Spring. Here we have an example >of the use of a biocide used indiscriminately. It dosn't take a chemical >biocide to create havoc to others detriment. You must be absolutely >livid. Rachel Carson made all this plain 20-30 years ago. Why don't you >send "them" a copy - you may stop it happening again. It may be worth >keeping a look out to see what pests have been increasing in numbers and >trying to link these increases with the spraying of this "natural" >biocide. This is not a rare occurance, and could be used as an argument >for stopping the spraying. Are there any regular wildlife surveys done >in you area to see if any "benefical" organisms have been affected (apart >from the butterflys/moths) by the removal of their food source? > >It seems reasonable that any butterflys that you "plant" will go their >own way, and so for you to enjoy any then the spraying has to stop. > >What do these moths do anyway that is so bad, and that hasn't been >aggrevated by people changing habitats/ introducing foreign organisms? I sympathise greatly with your point of view -- me, I go to lengths to avoid spraying _anything_, be it "biological" or not, to control pests. (So much more personal & gratifying to hear those exoskeletons and "body bags" popping 'neath your shoe. :-) However, you might want to cut those folks just a little slack; asking "what's so bad" about gypsy moths clearly indicates that you haven't ever endured the pleasure of their extended company. When a big population burst occurs, they are a MAJOR pest. Deciduous trees quickly get stripped to bare branches, and when those are gone, they'll munch on grass, shrubs, even some conifers. I had some very large oaks killed on former property of mine in southern MA, after a couple of back-to-back swarm years; no doubt commercial orchards around here have a lot more to lose. (Actually, while we're on the subject of how bad they are: I once almost rear-ended someone on the highway once when I applied the brakes and found myself briefly "guts'o'planing" on greasy, grimy caterpillar gunk -- I kid you not; you haven't seen nothin' until you've seen millions of the fuzzy creeps crossing a road at once.) I presume they must've had indigenous predators in their point of origin, but I'm not aware of anything in North America that'll eat them. In short, they're no fun. And although, if left alone, they typically seem to experience a population crash due to "natural causes" (a bacterium or fungus?), the city's urge to do _something_ is understandable. At the very least, if anyone does take them to task for broadcast spraying Bt, they ought to be given some credit for using a biological rather than Name Your Chemical Death with longer-lasting side-effects... -- "I feel lightheaded, Sam. I think my brain | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com is out of air. But it's kind of a neat | /HP/org/chart/says/you/are/here feeling..." --Freelance Police | Massachusetts Language Lab From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!news Thu May 27 23:13:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17715 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!news From: rubin@watson.ibm.com (Bill Rubin) Subject: Self propelled lawn mower doesn't self propel Summary: It doesn't move on its own Sender: news@yktnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 21:57:54 GMT Distribution: na Lines: 15 Reply-To: rubin@watson.ibm.com (Bill Rubin) Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM. Nntp-Posting-Host: wgros2.watson.ibm.com Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research X-Newsreader: IBM OS/2 PM RN (NR/2) v0.17k by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:17715 misc.consumers.house:33929 I have a Sears 22" self-propelled rear drive lawn mower. I've had it for 3 years, it's worked fine. Yesterday when my wife was mowing a rather thick (ie, unmowed) portion of our lawn, it stopped moving. The blade still moves, but it won't get in gear and move on its own. I looked underneath, the only thing that seems like it might be wrong is that the belt is on the outside of what looks like a channel that it should be in.. would this be the problem? There do not seem to be any broken cables and I assume there is only one belt and not 2 (one of which might have broken, I guess) .. and when I tried pulling the bar which would put it into gear it does seem to move something on the bottom of the mower. Naturally, I had a 3 year service contract on this and it expired at the beginning of the month. Does anyone know how Sears is on honoring these things so soon out of coverage? I don't feel like renewing it at $150 or so. -- Bill rubin@watson.ibm.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!news Thu May 27 23:13:24 EDT 1993 Article: 17716 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!news From: rubin@watson.ibm.com (Bill Rubin) Subject: Re: My rhododendron didn't flower Sender: news@yktnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 22:03:05 GMT Lines: 20 Reply-To: rubin@watson.ibm.com (Bill Rubin) Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM. References: <9305211328.AA00781@im4> Nntp-Posting-Host: wgros2.watson.ibm.com Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research X-Newsreader: IBM OS/2 PM RN (NR/2) v0.17k by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers In <9305211328.AA00781@im4> dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) writes: >There may be several reasons that your rhody didn't flower. >1. It never made flower buds last summer. (Could have been too much >fertilizer if applied in May or June.) >2. It was pruned after the flower buds were formed (any time after about >July 4th will do this). I have 3 rhodo's of which 2 are blooming this spring and one isn't. The one that is not has no flower buds to speak of (and none that are flowering) and the old leaves are all curled and brown with some green splotches. This same plant has had bug problems in the past, it has had malformed curled leaves. It is currently sending out new growth, which is promising, but it seems like the curled leaves are back (altho not all of them are curled) and I see some webs on a few of the leaves. The new leaves are also sticky.. I am not sure if this is normal or not. I have sprayed the plants in the past, I guess I will have to again. Any suggestions? Why would whatever is bugging the plant keep coming back? The plants are all right next to each other so I doubt it is a soil problem... Thanks... -- Bill rubin@watson.ibm.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!cherokee!da_vinci!lookout.mtt.it.uswc.uswest.com!ljlucas Thu May 27 23:13:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17717 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!cherokee!da_vinci!lookout.mtt.it.uswc.uswest.com!ljlucas From: ljlucas@lookout.mtt.it.uswc.uswest.com (Lori Lucas) Subject: Re: HUGE slugs - help! Message-ID: Sender: news@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com (IT Netnews) Nntp-Posting-Host: lookout Organization: U S WEST Information Technologies References: <1993May25.113243.1@stsci.edu> <25MAY199312413833@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> Distribution: na Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 20:17:20 GMT Lines: 22 In article <25MAY199312413833@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) writes: > [stuff deleted] >How big are your saucers? I had poor luck with teacup saucers but great >success with those 4" plastic plant saucers that you stick under a small >house plant. Since they are deeper, its easier for the big guys to go >swimming. My best night, I netted over 40 slugs in 3 of these plastic >saucers, including 1/2 a dozen of the finger sized ones that you described. >The weird part is, the big guys always die with their mouths open. It looks >like their last words were "uh-oh" :-) > I've had the best luck with these saucers too. I press them down into the ground though, so the little beasties don't have to climb up over the side. Lori ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++"Accomplishing the impossible means + Lori Lucas only that the boss will add it to + U S WEST Communications, Inc. your regular duties."-Doug Larson + ljlucas@lookout.it.uswc.uswest.com +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The opinions expressed are my own and probably not shared by U S WEST Comm +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpl-opus!jewett Thu May 27 23:13:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17718 of rec.gardens From: jewett@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Bob Jewett) Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 22:00:51 GMT Subject: Re: ADVICE: on Cactus Message-ID: <64820035@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com> Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpl-opus!jewett Newsgroups: rec.gardens References: <1993May26.163433.6383@ibmoto.com> Lines: 25 > Do I need to dig up the whole cactus or can I break off part of it and > plant it. If so, what is the proper procedure to do this? In Austin, I guess you're dealing with some kind of Opuntia, which has beaver-tail-shaped branches. Cut a pad off more or less at its base, let it dry for a week for the wound to scab over, then stick it in the dirt just deep enough to stand up. Some pros dip the wound in flowers of sulphur (elemental sulphur dust) to help avoid rot. If it is an Opuntia, when handling, avoid the tufts of tiny spines. They have reverse barbs and will fester. > How can I keep the cactus alive after the replant. In Austin, the largest problem is probably excessive water. Put them where there is good drainage, perhaps a mounded-up or raised bed. Add sand if your soil drains slowly. When in doubt, give them the same conditions as the good-looking wild ones next door. > If someone knows of some good how-to books, please reply. Both Ortho and Sunset have good cactus/succulent books in their gardening series. Bob Jewett From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!eddie.mit.edu!news.intercon.com!psinntp!viper!visix!kippi Thu May 27 23:13:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17719 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!eddie.mit.edu!news.intercon.com!psinntp!viper!visix!kippi From: kippi@visix.com (Kippi Fagerlund) Subject: Re: uses for cat litter? more info wanted Sender: news@visix.com Message-ID: Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 20:46:29 GMT Reply-To: kippi@visix.com (Kippi Fagerlund) References: <1993May24.162956.28806@walter.cray.com> <1993May25.190400.24874@tcpg02.ny.jpmorgan.com> <1ttvdsINN3vo@octaman.mathcs.emory.edu> <1993May25.165630.13327@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: Visix Software, Reston, Virginia Lines: 18 In article <1993May25.165630.13327@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: stuff deleted... |> Kitty litter used to go in an anaerobic |> digester ("Doggie Dooley" was the name of the plans I copied). Now that |> I don't have my own place anymore, it gets landfilled. |> |> Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI Could you elaborate on what this was and how it worked? I'm moving shortly from a house with municipal sewer, and trash removal twice a week to a house with 3 acres, a septic system (so I won't want to flush litter) and trash removal we'll have to pay for. Since we compost and recycle, we don't generate much trash . . . . -- Kippi Fagerlund kippi@visix.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.bbn.com!olivea!stratus!soave!jane Thu May 27 23:13:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17720 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.bbn.com!olivea!stratus!soave!jane From: jane@soave.swdc.stratus.com (Jane Beckman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: PEONY DIVISION - how to Message-ID: <9544.15449@stratus.SWDC.Stratus.COM> Date: 27 May 93 00:34:52 GMT References: <1993May11.012104.24266@stsci.edu> <120398@bu.edu> Sender: news@SWDC.Stratus.COM Organization: Stratus Computer, Inc., San Jose, CA Lines: 26 What's that old saw about gardeners proving people wrong? I keep hearing that peonies don't grow well/bloom in San Jose. Well, our house came with a peony. This poor thing seemed determined to prove that popular wisdom. Last year, figuring it was so unhappy that I certainly couldn't *hurt* it much more, merely kill it, I dug it up, divided it in two, and managed to cut off a lot of roots while doing so. In the spirit of experimentation, I planted one in the partially shady backyard (next to the bearded iris that's doing very nicely, and blooming, in the shade!), and planted the other in the sunny front border, among the rose bushes. I must have done just about everything wrong. Even the dirt washed away from the crown of the one in the sun, exposing the tops of the roots. Well, the one in the shade is looking distinctly happy, though it hasn't bloomed, and the one in the front border has taken off like gangbusters, and had a lovely purple flower, just last week. I guess peonies are unpredictable. -- Jilara [jane@swdc.stratus.com] "Every now and then, a big rock falls out of the sky, and everyone has a *very bad* day." --from the PBS "Dinosaurs" special. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Thu May 27 23:13:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17721 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Killing Weeds:Roundup Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 00:37:20 GMT Message-ID: <24726@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 26 In response to a thread on killing weeds, Dick and Jill Miller: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu write: >1. Roundup - active ingredient glyphosphate - there was a long discussion >here about this a couple of months ago. I think it is supposed to be >short-lived in the soil, but there were some comments that that might >not be so. It kills most plants that are actively growing (with a few >exceptions). This is my herbicide of preference for poison ivy. My apologies if I am re-hashing old items that have been covered, but I have a question about Roundup. I am nervous about garden chemicals at the best of times but I have been working under the assumption that of all the herbicides Roundup, which kills just about anything in it's path, is much less dangerous to the environment that selective herbicides (broad leaf weed killers for example). I was basing this assumption on things I had read about how it degrades pretty fast, doesn't get into the ground water, etc. I have just been reading "The Environmental Gardener" by Laurence Sombke (MasterMedia Ltd.,New York, 1991) where he states, and I quote: "2,4-D, often sold under the name Weed-B-Gone, and glyphosphate, sold under the name Kleenup, Roundup and Killzall, are both highly toxic to bees and fish as well as to weeds." Does anyone have any more information about this? Have any studies been done that anyone knows of? -Moira Carlson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!news.UVic.CA!nic.bc.ca!broughton Thu May 27 23:13:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17722 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!news.UVic.CA!nic.bc.ca!broughton From: broughton@nicad3.nic.bc.ca Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flowering chives Message-ID: <1993May26.143051.194@nicad3.nic.bc.ca> Date: 26 May 93 14:30:51 -0800 References: <1tr34rINNgce@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> Organization: North Island College Lines: 11 In article , howard@cs.uiuc.edu writes: > > My daughter has chives in our herb garden - she is letting it go to > flower - it has blooms like a clover - she takes the blooms and puts > them into our salad - they are delicious - why not try that - be > careful because they are sort of strong tasting... > > Enjoy - > After reading this I had to try after I got home last night. You're quite right. Delicious. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!udel!news.intercon.com!psinntp!laidbak!laidbak!audrone Thu May 27 23:13:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17723 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!udel!news.intercon.com!psinntp!laidbak!laidbak!audrone From: audrone@lachman.com (Audrone Matutis) Subject: Landscaping programs Message-ID: <1993May26.232028.16600@i88.isc.com> Keywords: landscaping, dos, window Sender: audrone@i88.isc.com (Audrone Matutis) Nntp-Posting-Host: speedo.i88.isc.com Organization: Lachman Technology, Inc., Naperville, IL Distribution: usa Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 23:20:28 GMT Lines: 19 Hi everyone, I'd like your recommendations for a landscaping program that runs either under DOS or Windows. We bought one program (I don't remember the name) - it was useless. I'd like one that will track the names of plants, shrubs and etc., and also is capable of drawing various items such as gazebos, decks, etc. Support for horizontal and vertical elevations would also be good. Please send me e-mail as I don't get a chance to read this group on a regular basis. I'll post a summary of all recommendations. Thanks in advance, Audrone Matutis Licensee Relations Manager Lachman Technology Inc. TEL: (708) 505-9555 x784 1901 N. Naper Blvd. FAX: (708) 505-9574 Naperville, Il 60563 email: audrone@lachman.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!hacgate!oracle2!deeds Thu May 27 23:13:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17724 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!hacgate!oracle2!deeds From: deeds@oracle2 (Deanna J. Deeds) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tomatoes vs Black Walnut Trees Message-ID: <35262@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> Date: 26 May 93 16:29:10 GMT References: Sender: news@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM Reply-To: deeds@solaria.hac.com Lines: 18 X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6] Al Fulmer (fulmer@camg2.icgmfg.mke.ab.com) wrote: : I love my black walnut trees, but I also love home grown tomatoes and the : two are not compatible. Is there a soil treatment or some way to allow : them to coexist? When I moved into my place, there was a left over neglected cherry tomato vine, still bearing, probably at least a year old (mild winter). It was right under the black walnut tree. I was surprised. Anyway, I guess sometimes they can indeed be compatible. (?!) Here's another request, only somewhat related, but: I remember seeing here on rec.gardens (a year ago or more) a list of plants that would survive under black walnut. Would some kind soul happen to have it, and post it, e-mail it, or get it archived? I'm particulary interested in bulbs and/or ground cover for the area. -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Deanna J. Deeds deeds@solaria.hac.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!richter Thu May 27 23:13:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17725 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!richter From: richter@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (C. Richter) Subject: Re: curry plant? Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <1993May17.083747.1@uncavx.unca.edu> Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 02:33:25 GMT Lines: 37 In article ab555@Freenet.carleton.ca (Margaret Redding) writes: > >In a previous article, strauss@uncavx.unca.edu () says: > >>I bought a plant this weekend, called a Curry plant. Smells just like curry. I >>know, however, that curry does not use this plant. I forget the scientific >>name, starts with an "H". > >The name is Helichrysum. > >>Does anyone know if it *is* edible? I don't think so: nothing with it to >>indicate such. Apparently, it is a moth repellant. But wouldn't be worth >>smelling like curry, in order to protect woolen sweaters. Not to me, anyway. >According to my book on herbs, it is not edible, but ornamental. I too >bought such a plant, thinking I could use it for curry, but I was wrong. Helichrysum angustifolium is generally regarded as inedible; but here is perhaps the first author to suggest otherwise: D. Hewer (1941; Practical Herb Growing) writes that the plant "has a strong smell of curry, which is retained on drying so that it is worth trying in soups." This always struck me as an example of the kind of hopeful justification a commercial herb grower (Hewer owned a herb farm) might make to sell plants; clearly Hewer never actually tried it. However, here is a more recent suggestion: L. Bremness (1989; The Complete Book of Herbs) writes: "Add a sprig to soups, stews, steamed vegetables, rice dishes and pickles for a mild curry flavour. Remove sprig before serving." Conrad Richter Richters Herbs Goodwood, ON L0C 1A0 Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!ns1.cc.lehigh.edu!wsm0 Thu May 27 23:13:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17726 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!ns1.cc.lehigh.edu!wsm0 From: wsm0@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (Wayne S. Mery) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Fence material Message-ID: <1993May27.020150.131711@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> Date: 27 May 93 02:01:50 GMT Organization: Lehigh University Lines: 14 X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] I want something that will look nice (not rust, chip, discolor) for several years to keep out rabbits, etc., 2-3 feet high. Green vynl-coated fence or chicken wire has the look I want, but my question for the net is 'Will it last several years, or are there better materials?" Any suggestions on alternatives or comments about the vynl appreciated. -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Wayne S. Mery Systems Programmer Lehigh University Computing Ctr WSM0@Lehigh.edu (Unix) LUWSM@IBM1.cc.lehigh.edu (VM) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!AChamove Sat May 29 18:45:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17727 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!AChamove Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: mantid bet Message-ID: <1993May27.034836.12155@massey.ac.nz> From: AChamove@massey.ac.nz (A.S. Chamove) Date: Thu, 27 May 93 03:48:36 GMT References: <1993May25.223440.6137@ast.saic.com> <1993May26.151159.29329@almserv.uucp> Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c Lines: 11 Most insects shed as they grow; my guess is that mantids are no exception. What do your mantids feed on in the office. They will eat oneanother if there is no other food (and probably even if there is). -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Arnold Chamove, E-mail: AChamove@Massey.ac.NZ Massey University Psychology Dept. FAX: (+64) 6350-5611 Palmerston North, New Zealand Phone: (+64) 6356-9099 Ex.7924 Time Zone: GMT + 12.00 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!batcomputer!munnari.oz.au!bruce.cs.monash.edu.au!monu6!vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au!samantha Sat May 29 18:45:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17728 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!batcomputer!munnari.oz.au!bruce.cs.monash.edu.au!monu6!vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au!samantha From: samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Message-ID: <1993May27.124329.91907@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au> Date: 27 May 93 12:43:29 +1000 References: <1993May13.162932.13144@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: Computer Centre, Monash University, Australia Lines: 15 In article <1993May13.162932.13144@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > In article , farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: >> About this time last year, I volunteered to do a Wildflower FAQ. (no, Kay, I >> didn't forget. I started a project on Trillium, entered graduate school, >> applied to the UTK Botany department, and took the GRE -- it's been a busy >> year). > Is this going to be a wildflower faq like the world series is "world" series? You mean North American wildflowers I think. Americans are not the only people who use the net. (Thats why its called internet) and they're not the only people with wildflowers. Enough yanky chauvanism please ! samantha lane samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mnemosyne.cs.du.edu!nyx!mhassema Sat May 29 18:45:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17729 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers,misc.consumers.house Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mnemosyne.cs.du.edu!nyx!mhassema From: mhassema@nyx.cs.du.edu (mark hasseman) Subject: Re: Recommendations for Electric Lawnmowers Message-ID: <1993May27.065534.27412@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University of Denver for the Denver community. The University has neither control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users. Sender: usenet@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu (netnews admin account) Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept. References: <1993May24.005818.18031@mdd.comm.mot.com> <1993May24.202233.24776@dg-rtp.dg.com> Distribution: na Date: Thu, 27 May 93 06:55:34 GMT Lines: 12 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:17729 misc.consumers:44552 misc.consumers.house:33940 I have found any side discharge mower can "mulch" pretty well if you mow so that you regrind the clippings on the next pass of uncut grass (i.e. you mow in the direction of the discharge out the side). An electric with side discharge and a flip over handle makes this very easy. I have been doing this (and not catching my grass) for years and it works great. mark -- Mark Hasseman mhassema@nyx.cs.du.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psgrain!neon!pail!servio!otisa Sat May 29 18:45:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17730 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psgrain!neon!pail!servio!otisa From: otisa@slc.com (Allen Otis) Subject: Re: Late Lettuce Message-ID: <1993May27.054008.9773@slc.com> Organization: Servio Corp, Beaverton Oregon, US References: Distribution: na Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 05:40:08 GMT Lines: 29 For late lettuce, some tricks to try are: Cover the seed bed with a loose straw mulch, and keep it well watered. The idea is to keep the soil temperature down until after sprouting. Put up a board or piece of cardboard to shade the seed bed for 1/2 to 2/3 of the day, until seeds sprout. Plant in an area that only gets 1/2 day of sun (morning sun preferred). This produces lettuce that matures in early August from a June sowing( in Portland OR). Plant a little bit of seed each week with the hopes that some of the plantings will catch cooler weather. (Helps in Portland, don't know about Idaho). Use varieties that tolerate hot weather. Minature English Romaine, Buttercrunch, etc. Thin agressively and fertilize moderately, to help lettuce grow rapidly before turning bitter. hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > Everything I've read/heard tells me that I should have started lettuce > long ago, but that it's not too late. I'm starting seedlings in peat > pots (jiffy pots) and keeping them inside the house, which should be > cool enough to allow germination. When I put them outside in the sun, > though (current daytime temps mid-70s to low-80s), will they then be > able to survive? Do I need to protect them somewhat? > The varieties I'm using are Buttercrunch and Grand Rapids. > Thanks one and all, > Gary Hypes From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!batcomputer!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!hawk!hawk!del Sat May 29 18:45:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17731 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!batcomputer!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!hawk!hawk!del From: del@adied.oz.au (D Elson) Subject: Re: curry plant? Message-ID: Organization: Australian Defence Industries References: <1993May17.083747.1@uncavx.unca.edu> Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 07:41:14 GMT Lines: 18 >>Does anyone know if it *is* edible? I don't think so: nothing with it to >>indicate such. Apparently, it is a moth repellant. But wouldn't be worth >>smelling like curry, in order to protect woolen sweaters. Not to me, anyway. >According to my book on herbs, it is not edible, but ornamental. I too >bought such a plant, thinking I could use it for curry, but I was wrong. Well, it is in fact edible, but it loses its aroma very quickly after picking, and immediately if you heat (read: cook) it. It has no real taste. In other words, you could use it as a spice, but you wouldn't want to. I occasionally hang it in the kitchen, or put a sprig in the water when I'm cooking rice for a curry. It gives its aroma to the air, not the food, so people come in and say "gee, that smells nice". Often the illusion lasts long enough for them to think that the smell is coming from the food :) Del From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf Sat May 29 18:45:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17732 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf From: adamf@hopper.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: Late Lettuce Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: ITC/UVA Community Access UNIX/Internet Project References: <1993May27.054008.9773@slc.com> Distribution: na Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 10:20:56 GMT Lines: 7 U.V. radiation quantity seems to make lettuce mature faster. Some Ag. schools found that shade cloth of 60 -90 % shade increased lettuce growing window well into the heat and brightness of the summer. I have found that the cv Sierra to do very well and taste good. Johnny's has this. Adam adamf@virginia.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!clesun!dbernard Sat May 29 18:45:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17733 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sun-barr!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!clesun!dbernard From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Late Lettuce Date: 27 May 1993 12:26:23 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems Lines: 35 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1u2c1fINNhn5@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> References: <5283@moscom.com> Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: clesun.central.sun.com In article 5283@moscom.com, de@moscom.com (David Esan) writes: > >What does it mean when one says "the lettuce bolted."? > The core of the head starts to grow a stalk-like appendage, which in the matter of a few seconds (well, it seems that fast) shoots skyward, and tries to flower. Before it even gets that far, the leaves begin to taste very bitter. >What are the signs? When should you harvest? > You should harvest before that happens! If you are looking for hard and fast scientific rules, home gardening is about as far from pure science as is trout fishing or golf! They say that if you continue to remove some of the outer leaves, and use them in salads, that that will help delay the bolting process. Also, lettuce loves coolness... in the warmth of High Summer, their brains get scrambled, and they bolt... >Thanks. > > >-- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > --> David Esan de@moscom.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!ceylon!vstern.gte.com!user Sat May 29 18:45:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17734 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!ceylon!vstern.gte.com!user From: vstern@gte.com (Vanessa Stern) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HUGE slugs - help! Message-ID: Date: 27 May 93 13:40:27 GMT References: <1993May25.113243.1@stsci.edu> <25MAY199312413833@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov> Sender: news@ceylon.gte.com Followup-To: rec.gardens Distribution: na Organization: GTE Laboratories, Inc Lines: 42 In article <25MAY199312413833@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov>, cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (MARTIN ZIMMERMAN) wrote: > > In article <1993May25.113243.1@stsci.edu>, mryan@stsci.edu writes... > >I'm sure this topic comes up a lot, but is there anything better than beer > >to kill the slugs in my garden? I planted some marigolds around my tomatoes > >and the slugs have eaten and killed most of them. Someone/something ate > >all my sunflower seedlings shortly after they sprouted, too. > > > >I put some saucers of beer out two nights ago, and a few very small slugs > >were in there the next morning. Last night I looked around the garden > >at 11:00 pm and there were some HUGE slugs, about 3" long and 1/2" wide. > >I pushed them into the beer but then I saw them climb out. They probably > >enjoyed it (it was Michelob :-). > > > >Suggestions eagerly awaited. > > > >----------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Mary Ryan mryan@stsci.edu > >Space Telescope Science Institute > >Baltimore, Maryland > > How big are your saucers? I had poor luck with teacup saucers but great > success with those 4" plastic plant saucers that you stick under a small > house plant. Since they are deeper, its easier for the big guys to go > swimming. My best night, I netted over 40 slugs in 3 of these plastic > saucers, including 1/2 a dozen of the finger sized ones that you described. > The weird part is, the big guys always die with their mouths open. It looks > like their last words were "uh-oh" :-) > > OK its gross, but less so than stepping on something that size IMHO. I > haven't tried substituting yeast & water for beer yet, but last year I > stocked up on 2 types of beer - good stuff for me, and cheap stuff for the > slugs. Why waste Michelob on a lower life form?! > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Marty Zimmerman | There are three types of lies; > cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov | lies, damn lies, and statistics > Analex Corp. - NASA Lewis, Cleveland | - Mark Twain > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- I saw a report recently that said the non-alcohol beer worked just as well. And it's lots cheaper! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!olivea!charnel!rat!decwrl!rtech!ingres!tad Sat May 29 18:45:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17735 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!olivea!charnel!rat!decwrl!rtech!ingres!tad From: tad@Ingres.COM (Tom Drynda) Subject: Chelsea Flower Show ! Message-ID: <1993May27.140956.3990@pony.Ingres.COM> Followup-To: rec.gardens Reply-To: tad@Ingres.COM (Tom Drynda) Organization: The Ask Group, Alameda CA 94501 Date: 27 May 93 14:09:56 GMT Lines: 11 Hey ! I'm going to the Chelsea Flower Show in about an hour ! I'll try and let you know what it was like. If I'd got my acttogether sooner, I could've posted sooner to see if anyone had specific questions that I could answer. Oh well, next time. Tom. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!chopin.udel.edu!philly Sat May 29 18:45:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17736 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!chopin.udel.edu!philly From: philly@chopin.udel.edu (Robert C Hite) Subject: Landscaping Schools Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.udel.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: chopin.udel.edu Organization: UD Horticulture Club Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 14:18:35 GMT Lines: 12 Hi Can somebody out there tell me where I might find a good landscaping school? Prefereably on the East Coast. Thanks in advance, Rob -- When I think of a good .signature, It will be right about here! UNTIL THEN, this stupid message will have to do. GO PHILLIES!!! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal Sat May 29 18:45:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17737 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal From: moskal@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Tera Moskal) Subject: Help, my rose is turning yellow! Message-ID: Summary: Leaves on rose on yellowing Keywords: rose, garden Sender: usenet@news.acns.nwu.edu (Usenet on news.acns) Nntp-Posting-Host: unseen3.acns.nwu.edu Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 14:36:51 GMT Lines: 11 I have three different roses that I just fertilized with Ortho's systemic rose food and disease control stuff. I'm in zone 4 and I was kind of late in feeding them this year. Two of the rose bushes (Tropicana and Mr. Lincoln) are doing fine and greened up nicely with new growth. The third one, which is some white thing that I don't remember the type, is still kind of wimpy looking and the leaves are yellowed or kind of cream. Some of the leaves have the veins showing in a dark green color. I remember reading that this is a sign of a nutrient deficiency, but I don't remember which one. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Tera Moskal moskal@ccadmin.tech.nwu.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sat May 29 18:45:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17738 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Young Linden Tree Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 15:25:34 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 6 I have a young Linden tree - I bought it as a 4+ foot bare root a little over a year ago - planted near my new garden plot. The tree trunk winds up getting wet from the garden sprinklers daily. Is this going to hurt the tree? Should I wrap it? Gary Hypes From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!philabs!acheron!clarke Sat May 29 18:45:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17739 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!philabs!acheron!clarke From: clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke/10240000) Subject: Ortho? None for me, thanks. Message-ID: Sender: news@acheron.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: acheron Reply-To: clarke@acheron.UUCP Organization: Ciliophora Associates References: Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 12:52:47 GMT Lines: 12 In article , breland@mcc.com (Mark A. Breland) writes: |> conducive growing conditions for fungus activity. Buy a reputable (Ortho) |> brand fungicidal concentrate, mix according to bottle directions, and spray Ortho was the brand that contaminated their "organic" insecticide with a nice herbicide. 67,000 containers of soap were contaminated with oxyfluorfen. I wouldn't buy anything from Ortho/Chevron. There were follow up stories on this (original article in Organic Gardening, Nov 1991, p.13). Don't recall the final outcome, but they paid a bundle for damage to crops. They also had some really obnoxious comments about people who follow organic methods ( cult was mentioned ). From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!chronos.synopsys.com!news.synopsys.com!karen Sat May 29 18:45:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17740 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!chronos.synopsys.com!news.synopsys.com!karen From: karen@synopsys.com (Karen Vahtra) Subject: Removing spent flowers from ice plant Message-ID: <1993May27.155606.20979@Synopsys.Com> Keywords: landscaping, dos, windown Sender: usenet@Synopsys.Com Organization: Synopsys, Inc. Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 15:56:06 GMT Lines: 7 Every year I get frustrated in efficiently removing the spent flowers from my ice plant. Any advice? Thanx in advance Karen From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!ljz57640 Sat May 29 18:45:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17741 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!ljz57640 From: laura j zurawski Subject: The amazing color-changing rose Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 16:10:54 GMT Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Originator: ljz57640@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 20 When we first moved into our little house in the northwest Chicago suburbs, there was this rather established rosebush in the backyard that produced large, yellow flowers. Then, all of a sudden, one season we noticed it was starting to smaller red flowers... now, we checked, and re-checked, and we are pretty darn certain that it's the same exact plant and not another one that was just not blooming before, so the question is, is it possible for the flowers on a rosebush to just change color like that? Or are we just going insane? --L. -- =================================================================== This posting was brought to you by the letter pi and the number pi. laura j zurawski---juniper@uiuc.edu---visualize whirled peas =================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn Sat May 29 18:45:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17742 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn From: dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: The amazing color-changing rose Date: 27 May 1993 16:26:51 GMT Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences Lines: 14 Message-ID: <1u2q4b$6ak@morrow.stanford.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: pangea.stanford.edu In article laura j zurawski writes: > >When we first moved into our little house in the northwest Chicago >suburbs, there was this rather established rosebush in the backyard >that produced large, yellow flowers. >Then, all of a sudden, one season we noticed it was starting to >smaller red flowers... now, we checked, and re-checked, and we are Sounds like the grafted hybrid part of your bush has been killed by freeze or disease, and the root stock is now supplying you with blooms. Dawn From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn Sat May 29 18:45:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17743 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn From: dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Date: 27 May 1993 16:29:48 GMT Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences Lines: 24 Message-ID: <1u2q9s$724@morrow.stanford.edu> References: <1993May13.162932.13144@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May27.124329.91907@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: pangea.stanford.edu In article <1993May27.124329.91907@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au> samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au writes: >In article <1993May13.162932.13144@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >> In article , farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: >>> About this time last year, I volunteered to do a Wildflower FAQ. (no, Kay, I >>> didn't forget. I started a project on Trillium, entered graduate school, >>> applied to the UTK Botany department, and took the GRE -- it's been a busy >>> year). >> > Is this going to be a wildflower faq like the world series is "world" series? >You mean North American wildflowers I think. Americans are not the only >people who use the net. (Thats why its called internet) and they're not >the only people with wildflowers. Enough yanky chauvanism please ! > > >samantha lane Now, now, this is a _friendly_ news group. Why don't you offer to send the "yanky" FAQ compiler some information on aussie wildflowers? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested. Dawn From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!wpi.WPI.EDU!clbriggs Sat May 29 18:45:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17744 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!wpi.WPI.EDU!clbriggs From: clbriggs@wpi.WPI.EDU (Carol L. Briggs) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Harvesting Potatos Date: 27 May 1993 16:36:33 GMT Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute Lines: 8 Sender: clbriggs@jake Message-ID: <1u2qmh$mdp@bigboote.WPI.EDU> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu The best potatoes you can get are right after blossoming-I used to dig around to see about the size of the potatoes-when they are only about 2-3" around. The skins are very thin and boiled and served with butter and fresh chopped parsley-absolutely fabulous! You will never have better tasting potatoes. Carol From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat May 29 18:45:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17745 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Buying Venus Fly Traps Message-ID: <1993May27.091414.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 27 May 93 09:14:14 MDT References: <1993May13.021649.19397@bsu-ucs> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 14 In article <1993May13.021649.19397@bsu-ucs>, 00drcarroll@leo.bsuvc.bsu.edu writes: > > Can somebody give me the number of a place I can order some venus flyy > traps and other carnivorous plants. I ordered some from the Michigan Bulb Co. > long ago, but I have long since lost their number. Any help much appreciated! > -Doug My favourite carnivorous plant dealer (for all kinds of carnivorous plants) is: PETER PAULS NURSERIES, Canandaigua, New York 14424 (Ph: 716-394-7397) Much to my dismay, they aren't allowed to ship live plants to Canada anymore, and I don't know of any good Canadian dealers. Anyone know? Don From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!cy13+ Sat May 29 18:45:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17746 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!cy13+ From: "Curtis P. Yeske" Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Suggestions for Succulent like ground Cover for NorthEast Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 14:00:01 -0400 Organization: Civil Engineering, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 12 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: po5.andrew.cmu.edu I have a strip of grass that I would like to plant succulent LIKE plants that can survive NorthEast Winters. Cedum seems to have done well. Hens N' Chicks have not...are they supposed to? Spreading or Low Maintenance suggestions are a plus, but not required. Interesting (blooming, foliage) plants also a plus. Also, some the sources for the plants would be helpful if they are not common. Thanks in advance cy13@andrew.cmu.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!uchinews!ellis!safi Sat May 29 18:45:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17747 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!uchinews!ellis!safi From: safi@ellis.uchicago.edu (pedro natalio safier) Subject: Re: HELP: PILLBUGS -- THANK YOU! Message-ID: <1993May27.181715.17613@midway.uchicago.edu> Sender: news@uchinews.uchicago.edu (News System) Reply-To: safi@midway.uchicago.edu Organization: University of Chicago Astronomy & Astrophysics References: <1993May27.151442.22608@leo.vsla.edu> Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 18:17:15 GMT Lines: 16 Thanks to everybody that answered my query on pillbugs.Many people suggested ways to avoid chemicals, and I am trying them. I can post a summary if there is any interest. Thanks a lot again, Pedro ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pedro N. Safier | e-mail: safi@ellis.uchicago.edu Department of Astronomy and Astrophysics | safier@oddjob.uchicago.edu The University of Chicago | phone: (312) 702-8203 5640 S. Ellis Ave | fax: (312) 702-8212 Chicago, IL 60637 | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!uchinews!ellis!safi Sat May 29 18:45:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17748 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!uchinews!ellis!safi From: safi@ellis.uchicago.edu (pedro natalio safier) Subject: Re: Killing Weeds:Roundup Message-ID: <1993May27.183114.18106@midway.uchicago.edu> Sender: news@uchinews.uchicago.edu (News System) Reply-To: safi@midway.uchicago.edu Organization: University of Chicago Astronomy & Astrophysics References: <24726@mindlink.bc.ca> <1993May27.153517.22924@leo.vsla.edu> Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 18:31:14 GMT Lines: 35 I would stay away from herbicides as long as it is practical. Many years ago I worked in Israel in a kibutz for a couple of years in the orange grove. We had a *lot* of weeds and we faced the dilemma to go chemical or mechanical (by mechanical I mean cutting the weeds and deep cultivation). Herbicides are a quick, painless, and expensive solution. On the other hand they *do* contaminate the soil and water. And since weeds do come back whether you like it or not, they do not give a final answer (nothing does). The only herbicide that we found useful is the type that kills seeds in the ground. This *did* help a lot, specially if we sprayed right before the rainy season. But, of course, this was done at a big expense and contaminating the soil. I would suggested herbicides only if it is impractical to cut the weeds and cultivate the ground (right now I am faced with such a dilemma; we moved to a house sitting on a 1/4 of an acre). As for stubborn weeds: don't just pull them, cultivate the soil deeply (at least two inches), and use lots of mulch. I hope this helps. Cheers, Pedro ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Pedro N. Safier | e-mail: safi@ellis.uchicago.edu Department of Astronomy and Astrophysics | safier@oddjob.uchicago.edu The University of Chicago | phone: (312) 702-8203 5640 S. Ellis Ave | fax: (312) 702-8212 Chicago, IL 60637 | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!silver.cs.umanitoba.ca!ostrand Sat May 29 18:45:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17749 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!mizar.cc.umanitoba.ca!silver.cs.umanitoba.ca!ostrand From: ostrand@silver.cs.umanitoba.ca (Andrew Ostrander) Subject: Re: The amazing color-changing rose Message-ID: Sender: news@ccu.umanitoba.ca Nntp-Posting-Host: silver.cs.umanitoba.ca Organization: Computer Science, University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada References: Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 18:27:12 GMT Lines: 17 In article laura j zurawski writes: > >When we first moved into our little house in the northwest Chicago >suburbs, there was this rather established rosebush in the backyard >that produced large, yellow flowers. >Then, all of a sudden, one season we noticed it was starting to >smaller red flowers... now, we checked, and re-checked, and we are >pretty darn certain that it's the same exact plant and not another >one that was just not blooming before, so the question is, is it >possible for the flowers on a rosebush to just change color like that? >Or are we just going insane? It seems likely to me that your original roses came from a yellow rose variety grafted onto roots from a red variety. The yellow rose parts died, and new shoots grew up from the roots, below the graft point. The yellow variety would have had tender roots that could not survive in your climate; that's why it would have been grafted onto hardy roots. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!gumby!destroyer!ncar!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams Sat May 29 18:45:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17750 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!gumby!destroyer!ncar!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams) Subject: red earthworms Message-ID: <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cray.com> Lines: 12 Nntp-Posting-Host: cherry10 Reply-To: dadams@cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Date: 27 May 93 12:32:45 CDT Gardens Alive offers 500 red earthworms for $19.95. I think this is a pretty steep price. It seems that I have seen a better price somewhere. Does anyone know? --- --David C. Adams Statistician Cray Research Inc. dadams@cray.com -Sourdough and Ham- N0WWN Old Cowboys never die. They just smell that way! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!nigel.msen.com!caen!lsa.umich.edu!nubs42.ccs.itd.umich.edu!user Sat May 29 18:45:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17751 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!nigel.msen.com!caen!lsa.umich.edu!nubs42.ccs.itd.umich.edu!user From: user Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Q: leek Date: 27 May 1993 19:07:12 GMT Organization: computer center Lines: 6 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1u33h0$c4o@controversy.math.lsa.umich.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: nubs42.ccs.itd.umich.edu X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d17 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Thu, 27 May 93 19:11:40 GMT A friend of mine gave me seedlings of what he said were leeks. They look just like chives to me, but he insisted that they were young leeks. Is this likely to be accurate? Will they grow to be the size of regular leeks? If they are leeks, how close and deep should I plant them? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat May 29 18:46:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17752 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: uses for cat litter? Message-ID: <1993May27.141415.13374@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 27 May 93 14:14:15 -0600 References: <1993May24.121949.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 10 In article , nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu (Bob Klebba) writes: > > The proper way to dispose of dog or cat feces is either in a hole in the > yard or down the toilet. Disposing of them in the trash exposes the > sanitation workers to the pathogens in the feces. Depends on the area. Regs around here are that litter is to be double-bagged and landfilled. Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat May 29 18:46:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17753 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: plant ID Message-ID: <1993May27.142238.13376@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 27 May 93 14:22:38 -0600 References: <1993May26.215421.10321@wuecl.wustl.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 15 In article <1993May26.215421.10321@wuecl.wustl.edu>, johnson@wucs1.wustl.edu (Sahnny Johnson) writes: > 1. I seem to have planted a perennial/wild flower that has leaves that look > like a geranium (the wild kind, not the annual things) but mottled, and the > flower is a cluster of small, fuzzy white blooms -- a cluster being about > the size of a golf ball. Is it a geranium? Are the leaves a longer than wide, with grey/white markings? And the flowers maybe a pale pink/lavender, shaped like a short bell, with protruding stamens? Likes shade? If so, you may have Hydrophyllum virginianum, Virginia waterleaf. native. Other possibilities are an entire raft of Geraniaceae and Malvaceae... Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat May 29 18:46:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17754 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Message-ID: <1993May27.142831.13377@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 27 May 93 14:28:31 -0600 References: <1993May13.162932.13144@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May27.124329.91907@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 17 In article <1993May27.124329.91907@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au>, samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au writes: > Is this going to be a wildflower faq like the world series is "world" series? > You mean North American wildflowers I think. Americans are not the only > people who use the net. (Thats why its called internet) and they're not > the only people with wildflowers. Enough yanky chauvanism please ! Hey! Australian wildflowers are great too! Except my experience with them is as cultivated plants, mainly in the greenhouse... Please, if you have some wildflower experience in OZ, please share! The FAQ's *are* accessible throughout internet! And if you've got a few spare Stylidium, Anigozanthos, Xanthorrhea, Drosera, or similar seeds, I know someone who'd be happy to start an FAQ on these natives... ;-) (me!) Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae Sat May 29 18:46:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17755 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: help: tasteless oregano Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <1993May25.114847.17743@hemlock.cray.com> Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 19:43:23 GMT Lines: 12 In article <1993May25.114847.17743@hemlock.cray.com> dadams@cray.com writes: >I planted oregano last year and it was great. It came back this >year, but seems to have lost it's flavor! It has a slight >minty smell, but when I taste it it is more like spinach or >sorrel or something like that. Not oregano. What went wrong? The fresh, succulent growth you get in the spring is low in the oils that give these herbs their flavour. Once the weather gets hotter and drier, and the foliage gets older and tougher, it will have more flavour. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!ncar!noao!stsci!stsci.edu!auer Sat May 29 18:46:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17756 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!ncar!noao!stsci!stsci.edu!auer From: auer@stsci.edu (Robin) Subject: Roses open too quickly Message-ID: <1993May27.155225.1@stsci.edu> Lines: 14 Sender: news@stsci.edu Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute Distribution: na Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 20:52:25 GMT I have just started taking some interest in rose bushes. I need to read up on roses and all the types out there. I was wondering - does anyone know of a type of rose that opens slow. It seems the roses that I have cut from my three bushes tend to open quickly (two days) and I cut them right before the bud opens. Do they have roses that open slower than others? thanks, Robin Auer Space Telescope Baltimore, Maryland From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gallux.gallaudet.edu!gallua.gallaudet.edu!rlwilliams Sat May 29 18:46:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17757 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gallux.gallaudet.edu!gallua.gallaudet.edu!rlwilliams From: rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu Subject: Re: Killing Weeds:Roundup Message-ID: <1993May27.164026.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> Lines: 28 Sender: news@gallux.gallaudet.edu (News manager) Organization: Gallaudet University References: <24726@mindlink.bc.ca> <1993May27.153517.22924@leo.vsla.edu> Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 21:40:26 GMT In article <1993May27.153517.22924@leo.vsla.edu>, ccaywood@leo.vsla.edu (Carolyn Caywood) writes: > I have an infestation of 'sheep sorrel' around mulched > shrubbery. The only advice for getting rid of it that I've > heard so far is 'Roundup' so I too am concerned. I don't want > to get that on my oleander on in Chesapeake Bay. Golden's > guide to Weeds says liming the soil will discourage sheep > sorrel. > And what will it say to the oleander? > I have tried hand pulling the 'ss' but it spreads through its > root system -- fine, yellow, elastic, threads that are > impossible to extract. > Suggestions? > Carolyn Caywood ===== What our local garden editor (aptly named "Jack Eden") recommends in situations like this is that you mix roundup (or the ortho equivalent, Kleenup) half and half with water in a can. Then take a paint brush and carefully paint the weeds taking care to avoid getting any on your oleander. I've done this around azaleas and vegetables and it seems to work fine. It's best applied in the late evening when you know there's no rain in the forcast for 24 hours. This gives the stuff the maximum time to be absorbed into the plants physiology where it disrupts the plant's sugar production without harming the soil or ajoining plants. Should die in about a week to ten days... I've always had good success with it. Further, I've heard that it breaks down after a short time and therefore isn't damaging to the environment... skip From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!neville Sat May 29 18:46:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17758 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!neville From: neville@cs.washington.edu (Dorothy Neville) Subject: Re: Q: leek Message-ID: <1993May27.213453.19150@beaver.cs.washington.edu> Sender: news@beaver.cs.washington.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Computer Science & Engineering, U. of Washington, Seattle References: <1u33h0$c4o@controversy.math.lsa.umich.edu> Date: Thu, 27 May 93 21:34:53 GMT Lines: 39 tried to reply by mail, but no discernable name or address. In article <1u33h0$c4o@controversy.math.lsa.umich.edu> you write: >A friend of mine gave me seedlings of what he said were leeks. They look >just like chives to me, but he insisted that they were young leeks. Is >this likely to be accurate? Will they grow to be the size of regular >leeks? > >If they are leeks, how close and deep should I plant them? yes, they are leeks. I would plant them about 3 inches apart in trenches. how deep? just the roots or a wee bit more for stability. as they grow (they are slow growers) you gradually fill in the trench to blanch the stems. try not to get dirt past the first main section or you will get dirt inside the leek. I find it impossible to avoid, so I just chop and wash them well when I use them. blanching really does help to provide lots more usable white part. I never got around to transplanting and trenching one group, and they only ended up with about an inch of white, the trenched ones were more like 4 or 5. other people don't use a trench and use other methods of blanching, like a cardboard collar. ask your friend what he does. should have good sized leeks by the fall. here in seattle I leave them in the ground all winter and pull as needed. michigan might be too cold or snowy for that? I don't know if they would rot in the cold or just be impossible to pull out. we had one cold spell last year that got the first few inches solidly frozen, but I really wanted some leeks and parsnips and spent several hours hacking away for them. ironically, I couldn't even buy leeks that week, because all the local suppliers had the same problem. good luck, dorothy From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat May 29 18:46:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17759 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Late Lettuce Message-ID: <1993May27.143045.6430@walter.cray.com> Lines: 8 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <5283@moscom.com> <1u2c1fINNhn5@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> Date: 27 May 93 14:30:44 CDT If vigorous rapidly growing lettuce bolts, you may not be out of luck. Sometimes the stalk grows fast enough so that the concentration of bitter juice remains low. The stalk can then be eaten raw. It helps if you like your lettuce a bit on the strong side. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!uc.msc.edu!apctrc!hawkings!hgo7!zdem0a Sat May 29 18:46:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17760 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!uc.msc.edu!apctrc!hawkings!hgo7!zdem0a From: zdem0a@hgo7.hou.amoco.com (Donna Martz) Subject: Re: Flowering brocolli Message-ID: Sender: news@amoco.com Organization: Amoco Corp. References: Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 20:02:23 GMT Lines: 8 jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (jean reese) writes: >Our brocolli is flowering, nice yellow flowers. Are we supposed to >let it do that, or is it supposed to flower? Is it too late to do >anything about it? Thanks for your help. >Jean It's not too late to make brocolli/cheese soup! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail Sat May 29 18:46:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17761 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail From: davidr@jetsam.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flowering brocolli Message-ID: <1u3ck8$dpe@jetsam.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 27 May 93 07:42:32 GMT Article-I.D.: jetsam.1u3ck8$dpe References: Lines: 11 NNTP-Posting-Host: jetsam.ee.pdx.edu jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (jean reese) writes: >Our brocolli is flowering, nice yellow flowers. Are we supposed to >let it do that, or is it supposed to flower? Is it too late to do anything >about it? Oooppps! The flowers are what you are supposed to harvest... before they turn into flowers! Cut the flowering top off. You might get a couple of small sideshoots... -CATfish From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!news.UVic.CA!nic.bc.ca!broughton Sat May 29 18:46:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17762 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!news.UVic.CA!nic.bc.ca!broughton From: broughton@nicad3.nic.bc.ca Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flowering brocolli Message-ID: <1993May27.134305.266@nicad3.nic.bc.ca> Date: 27 May 93 13:43:05 -0800 References: Organization: North Island College Lines: 15 In article , jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (jean reese) writes: > Our brocolli is flowering, nice yellow flowers. Are we supposed to > let it do that, or is it supposed to flower? Nope. Ideally cut the heads/florets before they flower and devour. > Is it too late to do anything about it? Pretty well. You can try cutting the flowered heads off and see if you get side sprouts. This does depend on the variety though. Simeon Broughton, Manager, Computer Services. (604)334-5254 North Island College, 2300 Ryan Road, Courtenay, B.C. V9N 8N6. CANADA broughton@nic.bc.ca From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!linac!unixhub!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat May 29 18:46:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17763 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!linac!unixhub!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Watering question Message-ID: <1993May27.212239.27268@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 21:22:39 GMT Lines: 16 In article nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu (Bob Klebba) writes: >> Is there any nutritional benefit to be gained by plants from watering >> them with the (cooled) water vegetables have been cooked in? > >Yes, the stock will add some nitrogen to the soil. I'd be interested to >hear whether it makes a difference. I don't know whether it makes a difference, but I got in the habit of using cooking water on my plants in the 7-year California drought. It certainly didn't hurt anything. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!microsoft!wingnut!a-ehawl Sat May 29 18:46:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17764 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!microsoft!wingnut!a-ehawl From: a-ehawl@microsoft.com (Eric Hawley) Subject: Re: Is it a tree or a vine????? Message-ID: <1993May27.152752.13300@microsoft.com> Date: 27 May 93 15:27:52 GMT Organization: Microsoft Corp. References: <1t0crq$4ea@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Distribution: usa Lines: 16 >I have seen Chinese Wisteria as a vine and now I think I >have seen it in a tree form. Yesterday I saw some trees >with purple/blue wisteria type blooms hanging from them. >The trees were maybe 7 feet tall. What did I see?, they were >beautiful!!!!!! How would I obtain one and how would I care for it? >Thanks for any info. >-Mike It could be Paulonia tomentosa, or Empress tree. I know have a few here in Seattle and they are quite beautiful in bloom. They grow to be quite large, I know of one 40' tall and wide. The flowers look very much like those of a wisteria, and are nicely fragrant. I don't recall seeing them in many nurseries, and it isn't one I would plant ina small yard due to the size. E From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!srgenprp!dbailey Sat May 29 18:46:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17765 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!srgenprp!dbailey From: dbailey@sr.hp.com (Dave Bailey) Subject: Young Linden Tree Sender: news@srgenprp.sr.hp.com (News Administrator) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 22:59:19 GMT Organization: HP Sonoma County (SRSD/MWTD/MID) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 9 Your tree should not be hit by sprinklers. The tree is susceptible to fungus where the roots are attached to the trunk. This area should be kept dry. Even mulch should be kept away from this area because it holds moisture. Wrapping a young tree or painting the trunk with white latex paint protects the trunk from sunburn. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!udel!rochester!rocksanne!news Sat May 29 18:46:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17766 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!udel!rochester!rocksanne!news From: xriley.escp10@xerox.com (Xavier D. Riley) Subject: Ants in Plum Tree Message-ID: <1993May27.194420.26763@spectrum.xerox.com> Sender: news@spectrum.xerox.com Reply-To: xriley.escp10@xerox.com Organization: Xerox Corporation, El Segundo CA Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 19:44:20 GMT Lines: 12 I have been in my present house since last June. I have an old plum tree in the back yard. I see a line of ants crawling up the trunk. What is the correct method of getting rid of these critters without harming the future fruit. When should the plum tree produce plums. Last year there were plums on the tree in July. Thanks Xavuier From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat May 29 18:46:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17767 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flowering brocolli Message-ID: <1993May27.164523.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 27 May 93 16:45:23 MDT References: Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 16 In article , jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (jean reese) writes: > Our brocolli is flowering, nice yellow flowers. Are we supposed to > let it do that, or is it supposed to flower? Is it too late to do anything > about it? > > Jean Ooops. You were supposed to eat the flower BUDS - that's what broccoli is. If you've got some slower ones, pick them NOW. One thing you might try on the plants that have flowered is to cut off the entire flower head. This should encourage the growth of side shoots which will also put out buds. They won't be nearly as big as the main head, but it's better than nothin'. Don From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat May 29 18:46:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17768 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: using grass treated with chemicals as a mulch Message-ID: <1993May27.165633.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 27 May 93 16:56:33 MDT References: <1u2tvh$oqm@bigbird.hri.com> Distribution: world Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 8 In article <1u2tvh$oqm@bigbird.hri.com>, rudolph@sparc20.hri.com (David Rudolph) writes: > I recently read that grass which has been treated with a broadleaf weed > herbicide should not be used as mulch in a vegetable garden. While this > makes sense, the author didn't specify how long after using chemicals it > might be safe to use the grass. I have already mulched my strawberries > with grass that I treated with Scotts Halt about 1 year ago. Relax! Most of the commercial herbicides breakdown in a week or two! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer Sat May 29 18:46:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17769 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: ADVICE: on Cactus Date: 28 May 1993 01:15:01 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 39 Message-ID: <1u3p2lINNmef@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1993May26.163433.6383@ibmoto.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein2.u.washington.edu Keywords: cactus transplanting In article <1993May26.163433.6383@ibmoto.com> allen%ibmoto.com@oakhill.sps.mot.com (Allen Hebert) writes: > > >Do I need to dig up the whole cactus or can I break off part of it and >plant it. If so, what is the proper procedure to do this? How can I >keep the cactus alive after the replant. If someone knows of some >good how-to books, please reply. First, determine what kind of cactus it is, for two reasons: 1) to make sure it isn't protected or endangered (you didn't say where you were) and that what you want to do is legal, and 2) how it propagates. Is it a barrel-type? If so, are there offsets - little baby cactus around the edge? Or is it an upright or spreading "pad" type (like prickly pear)? Or a column? If it is a barrel or a column, you will need to dig it. You take offsets. With column types (this also includes the upright branching ones) you can take a piece, let it dry for a week or so, and then start it in a pot, holding off on water till it roots, then starting to water a little at a time. If you actually dig and transplant a cactus, do not "water it in" - instead, wait about a week for root damage to callous over. Open wounds plus wetness can encourage root rot. If it is a prickly pear, an upright or spreading bunch of flat pads, then you have the easiest situation - just break off a piece, let it dry a few days, and then either stick it into the soil, or just lay it on the surface and it will root in from any surface in contact with the soil. There are lots of cactus books available; the "Encyclopedia of Cacti" is great, though kind of pricey. Check your library, read lots of books, and find what works best for you. If you really get into this, you might contact a local cactus society, as local people will have the best info for your area. ============================================================================== | Bob Beer | "A troubled mind is a trouble maker." | | bbeer@u.washington.edu | - Edna St. Vincent Millay | ============================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!pacbell.com!uop!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sundance.llnl.gov!fastrac.llnl.gov!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer Sat May 29 18:46:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17770 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!pacbell.com!uop!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sundance.llnl.gov!fastrac.llnl.gov!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Pitcher Plants as Cut Flowers Date: 28 May 1993 01:26:08 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 14 Message-ID: <1u3pngINNmk7@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1993May27.194420.26763@spectrum.xerox.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein2.u.washington.edu More and more lately I have seen flower shops selling "cobra lilies" as cut flowers - these usually are actually the leaves of Sarracenia leucophylla, a large trumpet-leaved pitcher plant with a white top strikingly veined with red. I asked if these were wild collected, and the owner said "yes, because they can't produce enough in cultivation." Recently I started seeing other species sold this way. I would suggest that people not buy these - I have read reports that whole stands are being cut for this trade. Most of these plants produce only one flush of growth each spring; cutting off all the leaves renders them unable to photosynthesize or catch their prey for most of the season. (And the woman in the shop told me "oh, it doesn't hurt anything - they only take the leaves!") From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Sat May 29 18:46:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17771 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: Ar-r-r-rgh! (pond story) Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: <1993May26.115813.28766@syma.sussex.ac.uk> Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 18:46:00 GMT Lines: 21 In article <1993May26.115813.28766@syma.sussex.ac.uk> andy@syma.sussex.ac.uk (Andy Clews) writes: >If one of your culprits is a heron or egret, you can probably buy a fake >one at a garden store. Just plant the decoy at the pond side and this usually >deters real herons/egrets from invading what they think is another's patch. >A friend of mine had his pond cleared out by a heron, but since installing a >decoy he's had no further trouble. > >-- >Andy Clews, Computing Service, Univ. of Sussex, Brighton BN1 9QJ, England >JANET: andy@uk.ac.sussex.syma OTHER NETWORKS: andy@syma.sussex.ac.uk > Gee, I put my pink plastic flamingos in the shed last summer, and since winter, an egret has been visiting my tiny fish pond (now covered with the bird netting usually used on fruit trees). Maybe I'll get my goofball yard ornaments back out! Great egrets sure look a lot bigger in the front yard than they do in the park! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Sat May 29 18:46:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17772 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: How do I kill weeds Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: <1993May26.170445.14743@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 19:03:27 GMT Lines: 18 >In article: kunda@hanuman.Eng.Sun.COM > >I would like to find out all organic and inorganic way to get rid of >the weeds. Also, how long do the weed killers last in the soil? For my birthday, I went on a spending spree at Smith & Hawken, tsk, tsk, and bough myself a couple of nifty weed-killers: two very different hoes! One has a very tiny, extremely sharp blade. Now I can get the oxalis that grows between my cactus or under my rose bushes, and not get stuck. Excellent! The other hoe is called a "Japanese hoe". The blade is about 10" long, 5" wide at the business end, with a good, long bevel. Very good at chopping up clumping weeds, very good at clearing larger areas too. Seems to use a different set of muscles, though, ouch! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!pacbell.com!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat May 29 18:46:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17773 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!pacbell.com!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Help, my rose is turning yellow! Message-ID: Keywords: rose, garden Organization: Megatest Corporation References: Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 23:06:13 GMT Lines: 11 In article moskal@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Tera Moskal) writes: >showing in a dark green color. I remember reading that this is a sign of a >nutrient deficiency, but I don't remember which one. Any advice is greatly >appreciated. The missing nutrient is probably iron. I had the same problem last year (even after fertilizing) so I got some stuff called Ironite. The roses this year couldn't be better! --Kim (posting on Scott's account) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Sat May 29 18:46:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17774 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Flowering brocolli Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <1993May27.164523.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 04:20:23 GMT Lines: 25 In article <1993May27.164523.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca writes: >In article , jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (jean reese) writes: >> Our brocolli is flowering, nice yellow flowers. Are we supposed to >> let it do that, or is it supposed to flower? Is it too late to do anything >> about it? >> >> Jean > >Ooops. You were supposed to eat the flower BUDS - that's what broccoli >is. If you've got some slower ones, pick them NOW. > >One thing you might try on the plants that have flowered is to cut >off the entire flower head. This should encourage the growth of >side shoots which will also put out buds. They won't be nearly >as big as the main head, but it's better than nothin'. > >Don Any reason not to just go ahead and eat the yellow flowers? John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!olivea!sgigate!sgi!cdp!nwfuw Sat May 29 18:46:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17775 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!olivea!sgigate!sgi!cdp!nwfuw From: National Wildlife Federation Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 27 May 93 09:11 PDT Subject: Lawn Alternatives on TV! Message-ID: <1453300211@igc.apc.org> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #N:cdp:1453300211:000:1151 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!nwfuw May 27 09:11:00 1993 Lines: 27 A Great TV Show on Lawn Alternatives! A creative television program on the environmental impact of the traditional suburban lawn is available by satellite to public television stations. The program features a range of alternatives that require less water, chemicals and energy. Featured is information on edible landscapes, wildlife habitat, bio-friendly maintenance, and meadow gardens. The program is being offered FREE to stations but local program managers must decide to pull it off the satellite and show it in your community. If you want it shown in your state, please contact the program manager of your local public television station and tell him or her you are interested in "Naturescaping: A Landscape Alternative" which is offered by SECA. The 30 minute satellite feed will be Monday, June 14., 1993 at 1300 on schedule C. For more information contact either Sam Love at Public Production Group 202-898-1808 or Maureen Taylor at SECA, 803-799-5517. If you have suggestions about other electronic avenues for publicizing the availability of this program, please contact Craig Tufts on the internet at tufts@nwfdc.nwf.org. Thanks. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!rtech!ingres!tad Sat May 29 18:46:24 EDT 1993 Article: 17776 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!rtech!ingres!tad From: tad@Ingres.COM (Tom Drynda) Subject: Re: I want a quick, living fence Message-ID: <1993May28.103422.15054@pony.Ingres.COM> Followup-To: rec.gardens Reply-To: tad@Ingres.COM (Tom Drynda) Organization: Ask Computer Systems Inc., Ingres Division, Alameda CA 94501 References: <1993May26.165528.14224@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Date: 28 May 93 10:34:22 GMT Lines: 46 Dick and Jill Miller write: | Tom Drynda(hey, that's me !) suggests: | >mwolf@pattie.wellesley.edu writes: | >| I need to install a visual barrier, approximately 24' wide and 6' | >| I live in southern Worcester County, Massachusetts, which is in inland | >| southern New England. | >| Thanks in advance for any sugestions! | >| Mur Wolf | > | > How about some Rosemary. I planted some a few months ago | > | > Tom. | | But, Tom, you are in California. Uh, London England actually. Don't be fooled by the company name or the email address ! My home is actually in Hertfordshire about 30 miles north of London. | | I couldn't find a Zone rating for rosemary, but 'America's Garden Book' | rates it as a TENDER perenial (according both the newer version and the | 1940's version). None of my other books had information about USDA zones | for rosemary either. Here in inland southern New England, (Zone 5) 'tender | perennial' usually means it dies back in the winter but the roots may pull | through (if you are lucky) :'). Hmmm. Interesting. I was told that it was a hardy plant. It certainly dosn't seem to have any delicate structures about it that would cause it to have problems in frosts - indeed, it has survived ... THRIVED ! ... through many hard frosts we had earlier this year with absolutely no sign of damage. My father has some that is a few years old and is in very good condition despite being buried under snow a few times. I imagine there are a number of different varieties though. Tom. Tom Drynda - tad@ingres.com | Ingres (UK) Ltd., ~~~ |===| | 15-19 Britten Street, (+_+) |O O|\\ Too much beer makes me type | London, SW3 3TY (_) |)O(|// umop apisdn | England. `---' \O_O/ | +44-71-416 7770 ext 411 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!estd.nrl.navy.mil!malouf Sat May 29 18:46:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17777 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ra!estd.nrl.navy.mil!malouf From: malouf@estd.nrl.navy.mil (MALOUF, PERRY) Subject: Re: Pitcher Plants as Cut Flowers Message-ID: <28MAY199306525249@estd.nrl.navy.mil> News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: ESTD - Naval Research Laboratory, Washington DC References: <1993May27.194420.26763@spectrum.xerox.com> <1u3pngINNmk7@news.u.washington.edu> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 11:52:00 GMT Lines: 23 In article <1u3pngINNmk7@news.u.washington.edu>, bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) writes... >More and more lately I have seen flower shops selling "cobra lilies" as >cut flowers - these usually are actually the leaves of Sarracenia >leucophylla, a large trumpet-leaved pitcher plant with a white top >strikingly veined with red. I asked if these were wild collected, and the >owner said "yes, because they can't produce enough in cultivation." >Recently I started seeing other species sold this way. > >I would suggest that people not buy these - I have read reports that whole >stands are being cut for this trade. Most of these plants produce only >one flush of growth each spring; cutting off all the leaves renders them >unable to photosynthesize or catch their prey for most of the season. > >(And the woman in the shop told me "oh, it doesn't hurt anything - they >only take the leaves!") You are applauded for posting this information and your suggestion. It is important for these unusual and beautiful plants to be protected. By the way, was that shop really selling Sarracenia Leucophylla as the Cobra Lily? I thought that Darlingtonia Californica was the species commonly referred to as the Cobra Lily. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Sat May 29 18:46:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17778 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Butterflies Message-ID: <121054@bu.edu> Date: 27 May 93 19:43:29 GMT References: <2250@giga.slc.paramax.com> <1993May25.140011.26788@bradford.ac.uk> Sender: news@bu.edu Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 24 Hold on there, nick!!! I live in New England, too, and I gotta tell you, the gypsy moth infestations here are no laughing matter. (I had never heard about them living in Michigan, but once I moved here, I learned.) bt is an important control agent, and until the gypsy moth virus they have tried to introduce kicks in on a major scale, it's risk some butterflies or lose a lot of forest. You can actually HEAR the (gross and disgusting) gypsy moth catepillers munching in some areas, at their peak. They can defoliate and thus kill vast areas if allowed free rein. They climb trees to eat, fall out, often into your hair (UGH!) and climb up again. Every tree in my yard is already infested, I'm sure -- the baby catepillers are just starting to show up. They get serious in June, and then I tape the trees to slow them down, but I also spray bt in my yard. You betcha!!! Rachel Carson definitely had a point, but at least bt is catepiller specific, and doesn't harm other life forms like DDT did. And I am convinced now that gypsy moths (did I hear someone say "introduced species?! I thought that I did!) could destroy permanently environment that will support butterflies again. Just my two cents worth! Sherry From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Sat May 29 18:46:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17779 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: labels for rose gardens?? Keywords: retentiveness Message-ID: <121063@bu.edu> Date: 27 May 93 20:34:58 GMT References: <143740002@capella.cup.hp.com> <1993May25.165920.1166@newstand.syr.edu> Sender: news@bu.edu Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 24 I don't label "on site" but I keep a "garden journal" (a pretty book from the Smithsonian) in which I record everything I plant, the source, both common and Latin names (if known), the cost, etc. In another section of the book (actually a "scrapbook" which I added myself) I keep the tags from everything I buy that gives info and pictures, plus clippings from catalogs on things I buy. My garden/s are still small enough that I pretty much remember what's where, and I personally don't like the intrusion of white tags sticking up where I'm trying to "make pretty", so I risk a bit of loss. The pictures saved help remind me. If I ever move, I will leave the book with the new owners (copying out the stuff I want to remember for the next place, of course!) I do use green bamboo marker sticks to remind me that I actually PLANTED this stick which is intended to become a dogwood tree someday -- or whatever. And I left plastic markers from the nursery at a few plants (different ferns I'm testing at my site, for example) since I have trouble differentiating them and I only want to get more of the ones that do well. I'll dump the tags after I figure all that stuff out! Of course, I don't have herb or rose gardens, two of the ones most commonly labeled, and I don't experiment with hybridization, so I don't have the same need for labels as you who do those things would have. Sherry From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!purdue!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Sat May 29 18:46:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17780 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!purdue!bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Japanese maple trees Message-ID: <121068@bu.edu> Date: 27 May 93 21:02:58 GMT References: <1453300204@igc.apc.org> <1993May25.171822.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> <738423904@stego.cs.duke.edu> Sender: news@bu.edu Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 17 It's me, the Cheapest gardener in the East! Just wanted you all to know that I got two green leaf varieties of Japanese maple at Home Depot for $10 each last week, as part of a collection of miscellaneous "shade trees" that they had for that price. They are about 8' tall saplings, in three-gallon containers. Probably will require some shaping, but healthy and happy in my shady garden! (Home Depot had some Japanese maples for around $30, too -- they were smaller, bushier, and red leaved.) Just thought the bargain hunters might like to check their local Home Depots for this deal! Sherry (Oh -- they also had flowering crabapple, some "regular" maples (didn't check the tag), etc. And fruit trees for $7) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news!news.world.net!connected.com!eskimo!slmed!mips2!steveb Sat May 29 18:46:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17781 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news!news.world.net!connected.com!eskimo!slmed!mips2!steveb From: steveb@spacelabs.com (Steve Borchers) Subject: Ladybugs Message-ID: <1993May26.154755.9585@slmed.spacelabs.com> Organization: SpaceLabs Medical, Inc. ReplyTo: steveb@spacelabs.com Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 15:47:55 PDT Lines: 10 I enjoy setting out Ladybugs to control aphids and the like. There are some problems, though: 1. Expensive to buy ($5/pkg 1000)(+gas etc) 2. Hit-or-miss to even _find_ them in local nurseries 3. Once their food supply is gone, so are the Ladybugs. Is there a way to keep Ladybugs around? Perhaps providing a breeding area and/or (non-invasive) food supply, or breeding in captivity? Is there any reason I wouldn't _want_ to keep/breed them? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!meaddata!barb Sat May 29 18:46:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17782 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!meaddata!barb From: barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want a quick, living fence Date: 28 May 1993 12:53:40 GMT Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH Lines: 24 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1u520k$88@meaddata.meaddata.com> References: <1993May26.165528.14224@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> <1993May26.190233.50428@ux1.cts.eiu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: moe.meaddata.com |> Do you want a lower fence than that? I've seen hedge roses |> advertised that look interesting, only get 3-4' tall. When I was a kid my father planted some sort of rose hedge (some kind of floribunda, I think) around our yard, each bush 3' - 4' apart. Withing a couple of years they had grown together, and within 5 years, they were easily 8' tall and 5' thick, with thorns. You could barely get near the thing, and occasionally a rabbit would get into it, get hung up and die. I've seen them advertised as a living stock fence, and I'm sure it would keep anything in, or out. It flowers in the spring (and is even fragrant). Problem is, I don't think you can get rid of them, short of dynamite. I don't think you could even get a bulldozer operator to try to attack the thing. (I know; it was my job to try to extract the newspapers that would blow into it and look unsightly. I don't think my father liked me.) -- Barbara Bruns Technical Communications & Education Mead Data Central barb@meaddata.com ...!uunet!meaddata!barb The opinions expressed here by me are not necessarily those of Mead Data Central; nor would they much care about the things about which I have opinions. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU!saari Sat May 29 18:46:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17783 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU!saari From: saari@magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU (Susan J Saari) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: garden journal/labeling Date: 28 May 1993 09:42:07 -0400 Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 33 Sender: daemon@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu I keep a garden journal. I draw all my beds, as much to scale as I can. I try to label what plants are where. During the winter each year I make a new section in my journal and make new outlines of all the beds. I plan what I want to grow where. I also draw the new beds and/or extensions of beds I have already. Then in the spring I am ready to dig, add compost, and plant. Once I am busy planting the seedlings, I find I change my mind about locations of plants sometimes. Also, I get carried away with my catalogs sometimes and order plants I didn't plan on having. So periodically during the spring and summer, I walk around the yard with my journal making notes and changing the diagrams to reflect the new locations of plants. Besides diagrams of the beds and what plants I have in them, I also make lists of what I order from each company. I also list out what seeds I start in the basement (under the lights), the time I plant the seeds, the date they first come up. I make notations on what worked and what seeds and companies I particularly like. For instance, this year I found I started my tomatoes too late (and last year I started them too early). I started the basils and zinnias at just the right time. I'm not much for record keeping, but this I enjoy doing. It's not so formal or strict a plan that I don't change it when I feel like it. I do label plants I put in for the first time. I recycle labels I get from other plants. Once I learn what the plant is, I take the label out and use it another time. Sue Susan Saari Columbus, Ohio From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU!saari Sat May 29 18:46:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17784 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU!saari From: saari@magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU (Susan J Saari) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: starting perennial flowers from seed Date: 28 May 1993 09:54:50 -0400 Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 30 Sender: daemon@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu This year I tried starting some perennials from seed in my basement under lights for the first time. With vegies and annuals I have always started the seeds in flats of vermiculite and then transferred them to small pots with potting soil when they get big enough to handle. This has always worked great for me. I have successfully started tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, corn (yes, I started it early one year and transplanted to a public plot - worked ok), cucumbers, squash of all kinds, zinnias, basils, marigolds, cosmos, and other annuals. This year I tried some perennials for the first time. I kept waiting for them to get big enough to transplant to pots, but they never did. I tried daisies, cleomes, bells of ireland, carnations, lobelias, delphiniums, perennial alysum (gold), and some others. Whoops... cleomes are annuals, but I had the same problem with them as with the perennials. What is the secret of getting them big enough under lights to take outside? I did transplant the delphiniums and gallardias (goblin) to containers, but they did not grow big like I expected. Does anybody out there grow perennials from seed? Would you share some hints? Thanks, Sue PS I did get them all the sprout. They just would not get big enough to transplant. ----- Susan Saari Columbus, Ohio From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!bu.edu!crsa!vida Sat May 29 18:46:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17785 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!bu.edu!crsa!vida From: vida@crsa.bu.edu (Vida Jakabhazy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Where to deadhead pansies? Message-ID: <121145@bu.edu> Date: 28 May 93 13:19:43 GMT Sender: news@bu.edu Distribution: na Organization: Boston University Center for Remote Sensing Lines: 4 Do you simply snip the spent flower off or do you remove the stem on which it grew, as well? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 Sat May 29 18:46:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17786 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!student.tc.umn.edu!john0130 From: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) Subject: Re: Killing Weeds:Roundup Message-ID: Sender: john0130@student.tc.umn.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: student.tc.umn.edu Organization: University of Minnesota References: <24726@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 14:40:24 GMT Expires: Fri, 4 Jun 1993 05:00:00 GMT Lines: 19 Some info on glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup, Kleenup, etc. Glyphosate will usually kill most plants that is is sprayed on in the landscape, at least for herbaceous plants. I'm not sure how it affects woody plants, as I have never tried it. Some plants are more or less resistant to it for various reasons. There are also some varieties of plants that are totally resistant to it, and resistance may increase over the coming years. But for most cases, it will kill all weeds and plants. As for the residual of the chemical, from a plant's point of view there is no residual effect of Roundup in the soil. The soil binds to the chemical so tightly that plants can't take it up. It actually takes a few months for it to degrade away, but again, has no effects on plants. I'm not sure about the potential for pollution by this chemical, but from the information I currently have, pollution does not seem to be a problem, but I will continue to look for new research on this PJ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!convex!suplick Sat May 29 18:46:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17787 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!convex!suplick From: suplick@convex.com (Jean Suplick) Subject: Re: starting perennial flowers from seed Message-ID: Sender: usenet@convex.com (news access account) Nntp-Posting-Host: mikey.convex.com Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, Tx., USA References: Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 14:57:19 GMT X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and not necessarily those of CONVEX. Lines: 26 In saari@magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU (Susan J Saari) writes: >I did transplant the delphiniums and gallardias (goblin) to containers, >but they did not grow big like I expected. Does anybody out there grow >perennials from seed? Would you share some hints? I started some gallardias, purple cone flower, and coreopsis from seed this spring. Let's see, that was in February sometime. I didn't transplant them to 4" pots until they had several sets of leaves, but once transplanted I started setting them out on the patio, bringing them in only when there was chance of frost. They acutally went into the ground around the end of March (we get early springs here). At that point, they weren't as big as nursery plants usually are in 4" pots, maybe a quarter to a third the usual size. They haven't exactly grow like ganbusters. My annuals seem to be growing a bit faster. The purple cone flower in particular is growing _really_ slowly, but I've not worried too much. After observing how my perennial herbs have grown over a two year period, I just figured that the perennial flowers will grow some this year and grow some more next year, etc. They all seem to be healthy despite the apparent rate of growth. One thing I'd recommend for the seedlings that are still in their original growing medium is to feed them a little. Just another data point. Hope this helps. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!almserv!mardigras!s5uagm Sat May 29 18:46:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17788 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!almserv!mardigras!s5uagm From: s5uagm@fnma.COM (Andrew Miller) Subject: Re: Ar-r-r-rgh! (pond story) Message-ID: <1993May28.151523.19757@almserv.uucp> Sender: usenet@almserv.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: mardigras Reply-To: s5uagm@fnma.COM Organization: Fannie Mae References: Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 15:15:23 GMT Lines: 27 In article 4C5@sybase.com, karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) writes: >In article <1993May26.115813.28766@syma.sussex.ac.uk> andy@syma.sussex.ac.uk (Andy Clews) writes: >>If one of your culprits is a heron or egret, you can probably buy a fake >>one at a garden store. >> > >..., an egret has been visiting my tiny fish pond (now >covered with the bird netting usually used on fruit trees). > Boy, you're lucky to have that Egret. I would happily buy a dollars worth of "feeder" goldfish every month, just to keep him around. > >Maybe I'll get my goofball yard ornaments back out! > >Great egrets sure look a lot bigger in the front yard than they >do in the park! The Egret would probably look better in your yard than the plastic Flamingos too. - Andrew - Yes, I do have a plastic Flamingo, but he only comes out when Jimmy Buffet is in town. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!noao!stsci!stsci.edu!auer Sat May 29 18:46:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17789 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!noao!stsci!stsci.edu!auer From: auer@stsci.edu (Robin) Subject: Viburnum with aphids!! Message-ID: <1993May28.112315.1@stsci.edu> Lines: 14 Sender: news@stsci.edu Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute Distribution: na Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 16:23:15 GMT Just about a couple of weeks ago I planted a Viburnum opulus 'Roseum'. This shrub came in a 3-4 gal container, so it was pretty hardy. Well since I have planted it -- it is invaded with aphids and even some black ants! They are all over the new growth and are shrivelling up my leaves. Now this shrub looks like it is dying. I have some spray that the garden center said I could use and I have tried it. But these blasted bugs keep coming back. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do. Or did I just pick a viburnum that will have bugs for life - and if so - will it eventually kill the shrub? Robin Auer Catonsville, Maryland From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!math.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!linac!att!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Sat May 29 18:46:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17790 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!math.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!linac!att!att-out!cbnewsd!cbnewsc!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Re: How to get rid of "bloodroots"? Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <1993May26.170701.14987@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Distribution: usa Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 15:29:25 GMT Lines: 11 In article <1993May26.170701.14987@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) writes: (lines omitted) >Glad you put 'bloodroots' in quotes. There is a wildflower named Bloodroot >which is a whole nother thing and very desirable. I think what you are >referring to is Impatiens (common names Jewelweed, Spotted Touch-Me-Not) >which grows very thickly in damp, shady areas. It can get fairly bushy if (lines omitted) One benefit of jewelweed--it attracts hummingbirds. Dave Daulton From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!henson!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer Sat May 29 18:46:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17791 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!henson!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pitcher Plants as Cut Flowers Message-ID: <1u5caoINN32a@news.u.washington.edu> Date: 28 May 93 15:49:44 GMT Article-I.D.: news.1u5caoINN32a References: <1993May27.194420.26763@spectrum.xerox.com> <1u3pngINNmk7@news.u.washington.edu> <28MAY199306525249@estd.nrl.navy.mil> Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 42 NNTP-Posting-Host: stein2.u.washington.edu In article <28MAY199306525249@estd.nrl.navy.mil> malouf@estd.nrl.navy.mil (MALOUF, PERRY) writes: >In article <1u3pngINNmk7@news.u.washington.edu>, bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) writes... > >By the way, was that shop really selling Sarracenia Leucophylla as the >Cobra Lily? I thought that Darlingtonia Californica was the species >commonly referred to as the Cobra Lily. Yep. They called them "Cobra Lilies." The common name Cobra Lily does usually refer to Darlingtonia californica. Most of the places I saw this, they didn't even realize they weren't flowers. Of course, the biggest threat to Sarracenia is loss of habitat. Whole swamps are continuing to be drained at an incredible rate, and today there are several varieties of these plants which exist only in cultivation, because they formerly existed only in one particular location (certain color forms, for example, of S. flava). S. oreophila exists in just a few sites in the wild now due to agriculture, and it is truly endangered. Because of the CITES regulations, one may not buy or sell it, though I can legally give someone a start of it (but not over a border). Most unfortunately, the CITES rules on these were drawn up based on the laws concerning animal parts, (a "part" of an animal, like a skin, for example, implies death to the animal). However this is counterproductive in the case of plants. Of course it is necessary to protect wild populations. But to restrict any trade in seeds or any part of these plants serves only to limit those who can grow them in cultivation. A really good example of this kind of law in action is the case of Dr. Alfred Lau, who lives in Mexico. He runs a school for local indian boys, giving them training and schooling so that they can attend university, and return to serve their villages as doctors, etc. The school is funded by the income that they receive by collecting seeds (only every 4 or five years from a site) of cactus, and introducing them into cultivation. Several species are named for him BTW. He also raises these in cultivation and as soon as possible, sells seed from cultivated plants. Now his operation has been shut down, he is not allowed to ship anything out of Mexico; even though they have not decimated any of the wild stands, and there are actually more of these plants growing now than before. He is heavily dependent on donations from friends abroad to run the school, which has had to deny many applicants now. Bob From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!henson!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer Sat May 29 18:46:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17792 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!henson!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Ants in Plum Tree Message-ID: <1u5chgINN33h@news.u.washington.edu> Date: 28 May 93 15:53:20 GMT Article-I.D.: news.1u5chgINN33h References: <1993May27.194420.26763@spectrum.xerox.com> Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 17 NNTP-Posting-Host: stein2.u.washington.edu In article <1993May27.194420.26763@spectrum.xerox.com> xriley.escp10@xerox.com writes: > >I have been in my present house since last June. I have an old plum tree >in the back yard. I see a line of ants crawling up the trunk. What is the >correct method of getting rid of these critters without harming the future >fruit. When should the plum tree produce plums. Last year there were plums >on the tree in July. Why do you want to get rid of them? Do you see evidence of them damaging the tree? You might check and see what is attracting them - sometimes ants will "farm" aphids on plants and move them around, because the aphids secrete a sweet "honeydew." If you spray with a safe insecticide (aphids are pretty easy to deal with; you don't need to use anything nasty), or even better, introduce ladybugs, that should take care of the problem. If the ants aren't doing any damage though, why bother them? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!henson!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer Sat May 29 18:46:40 EDT 1993 Article: 17793 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!henson!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Where to deadhead pansies? Message-ID: <1u5coeINN350@news.u.washington.edu> Date: 28 May 93 15:57:02 GMT Article-I.D.: news.1u5coeINN350 References: <121145@bu.edu> Distribution: na Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 15 NNTP-Posting-Host: stein2.u.washington.edu In article <121145@bu.edu> vida@crsa.bu.edu (Vida Jakabhazy) writes: > >Do you simply snip the spent flower off or do you remove the stem on >which it grew, as well? I just rip up the entire plant, thereby keeping it from going to seed. (*joke!* *joke!* *joke!* Do not try this yourself!) You can just snip off the flower, or if you dont' like the look of the stems, you can take them off too. Theoretically, the more green stuff you leave on the plant, the better it will photosynthesize, but for practical purposes, the difference would be pretty minimal. So as long as you don't damage new growth, do what looks best to you. Bob From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!garnet.berkeley.edu!macklin Sat May 29 18:46:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17794 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!garnet.berkeley.edu!macklin From: macklin@garnet.berkeley.edu (Macklin Burnham) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Ar-r-r-rgh! (pond story) Date: 28 May 1993 16:11:03 GMT Organization: University of California, Berkeley Lines: 14 Message-ID: <1u5din$hfb@agate.berkeley.edu> References: <1993May28.151523.19757@almserv.uucp> NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu In article <1993May28.151523.19757@almserv.uucp> s5uagm@fnma.COM writes: >In article 4C5@sybase.com, karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) writes: > > Boy, you're lucky to have that Egret. I would happily buy a dollars ^^^^^^^ >worth of "feeder" goldfish every month, just to keep him around. My office overlooks a large ornamental pond, and I've watched egrets at work. They are extremely efficient fish-hunters; I'd say they're good for about one per minute. You'd need more than a dollar's worth of goldfish to keep them around. (The pond is now drained, but when it was full, an egret used to show up about every other month and spend one or two days cleaning out all the bite-sized fish.) Magnificent birds, unless you're a fish :-) Mack Burnham From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!monsanto.com!bb1t.monsanto.com!rghoff Sat May 29 18:46:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17795 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!monsanto.com!bb1t.monsanto.com!rghoff From: rghoff@bb1t.monsanto.com Subject: Re: Killing Weeds: Roundup Message-ID: <1993May28.111132.1@bb1t.monsanto.com> Lines: 39 Sender: news@tin.monsanto.com (USENET News System) Organization: Monsanto Company, St. Louis, MO References: <24726@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 17:11:32 GMT In article , john0130@student.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) writes: > Some info on glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup, Kleenup, etc. > > Glyphosate will usually kill most plants that is is sprayed on in the > landscape, at least for herbaceous plants. I'm not sure how it affects > woody plants, as I have never tried it. Some plants are more or less > resistant to it for various reasons. There are also some varieties of > plants that are totally resistant to it, and resistance may increase over > the coming years. But for most cases, it will kill all weeds and plants. > > As for the residual of the chemical, from a plant's point of view there is > no residual effect of Roundup in the soil. The soil binds to the chemical > so tightly that plants can't take it up. It actually takes a few months > for it to degrade away, but again, has no effects on plants. > > I'm not sure about the potential for pollution by this chemical, but from > the information I currently have, pollution does not seem to be a problem, > but I will continue to look for new research on this > > PJ I work at Monsanto (who makes Roundup), but I'm in a different division - I'll try to get some more info on it. But from what I've heard, it's about as safe as anything you could posibly use from an environmental point of view. It's one of the few pesticides that routinely gets a thumbs up from environmental groups. But it is non-selective and has killed everything I've ever sprayed with it (EXCEPT for a crokus I mistakenly sprayed - but promptly hosed down after being 'educated' that is was a desirable plant afterall by my wife :-) Rick Hoffman From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!infonode!ingr!dazixcon!dlippert Sat May 29 18:46:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17796 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!infonode!ingr!dazixcon!dlippert From: dlippert@shrooms.ingr.com (Doris Lippert) Subject: help: bean plants descimated Message-ID: <1993May28.150130.4971@dazixco.ingr.com> Sender: news@dazixco.ingr.com Nntp-Posting-Host: shrooms Organization: Intergraph Corp. Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 15:01:30 GMT Lines: 10 My bean plants came up about a week ago and now their little leaves have huge holes in them Upon inspection I found one slug hanging out nearby. Are slugs the culprit? Any other possibilities? 3 days had elapsed between when the plants were ok and when I noticed the destruction. I will probably try planting them again, but I want to prevent the problem from happening again. I didn't have any problems with beans and pests last year. I live in Colorado. Doris From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU!wsl4m Sat May 29 18:46:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17797 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU!wsl4m From: wsl4m@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (W. Scott Laughinghouse) Subject: Re: Butterflies Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: University of Virginia References: <2250@giga.slc.paramax.com> <1993May25.140011.26788@bradford.ac.uk> <121054@bu.edu> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 15:58:50 GMT Lines: 18 The Gypsy moths here in the Shenandoah valley are eating everything that has leaves, most oaks and maples. I tried those burlap wraps on my trees last year and it did not even stop them. I lost 3 trees this year. (Never put out any leaves this spring) and this are BIG trees. They have sprayed from a plane once that I'm sure about in the last couple of weeks. We live adjacent to the national forest and when you walk through the woods you can hear the ravenous critters at work. What every it takes to get rid of them and save the trees I will vote for. -- Scott Laughinghouse E-Mail wsl4m@virginia.edu {INTERNET} wsl4m@virginia.bitnet {BITNET} Just another nice day in the SHENANDOAH VALLEY !!!!!!!!! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.claremont.edu!ucivax!ucla-cs!ucla-ma!julia!ramirez Sat May 29 18:46:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17798 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.claremont.edu!ucivax!ucla-cs!ucla-ma!julia!ramirez From: ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) Subject: flowering broccoli...and more Message-ID: <1993May28.155327.13174@math.ucla.edu> Sender: news@math.ucla.edu Organization: UCLA Mathematics Department Date: Fri, 28 May 93 15:53:27 GMT Lines: 30 There is really no reason why broccoli flowers couldn't be put into salads or in some other way eaten. They're not poisonous. I've eaten some in my day and lived. Of course I found nasturtiums and borage culinarily far more exciting. (Sorry Don T. I know how you despise the idea of eating flowers!) Still on the subject, sort of: while turnip roots and greens are, in my opinion, fit only to be fed to livestock, turnip buds are absolutely delicious, and the little yellow flowers that come after aren't bad in salads, either. Turnip buds resemble little tiny broccolis, but much more tender and succulent. They are SLIGHTLY sharper in flavor. I grow turnips now for buds (I grew them a couple years ago after a long hiatus, feeling that 10 years of added maturity might have changed my attitude toward turnips. It hadn't. And because I was too busy to compost them, the plants went to bud. I tasted one and found it good.) Onion flowers are good, too. They grow in round clusters on the top of the green stalk that shoots up. Separating the florettes and sprinkling them in salads or over omlettes gives food nice, oniony bursts of flavor. I'll pass on a bit of information because it may save someone grief. I had been taking these onion heads and immersing them in olive oil to flavor the oil. Because olive oil coagulates in the fridge, I had been leaving it out on the counter all the time. Later on, after doing this for awhile, I read in (I believe) Bottom Line Magazine, that this is a potentially dangerous practice, because oil creates an anaerobic environment and that uncooked vegetable matter immersed in it and not refrigerated could become botulous. Although that never happened to me, I took warning seriously enough to change my ways. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!rbouffor Sat May 29 18:46:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17799 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!rbouffor From: rbouffor@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Robert W Boufford) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Do BIG white pine trees topple easily? Date: 28 May 1993 16:42:12 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 15 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1u5fd4$e8j@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <1993May25.164815.6419@linus.mitre.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: top.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article <1993May25.164815.6419@linus.mitre.org> vv@mbunix.mitre.org (Ventron e) writes: >I have a white pine tree in front of my house which is at least 60 feet >.... >It is a great tree--is there anything I can do to reduce any risk? The safest thing to do is hire a qualified, certified arborist. There is a practice called cable and bracing to lend support to the branch in question. It is important to hire a qualified arborist, there are alot of "pickup truck tree trimmers" ie laid-off factory workers with a chain saw and pickup truck who use to cut fire wood, roaming around. BobB OSU Ag Tech Institute From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!sgigate!odin!castle.wpd.sgi.com!kim Sat May 29 18:46:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17800 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!sgigate!odin!castle.wpd.sgi.com!kim From: kim@castle.wpd.sgi.com (Kim Rachmeler) Subject: Re: red earthworms Message-ID: Sender: news@odin.corp.sgi.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: castle.wpd.sgi.com Reply-To: kim@wpd.sgi.com Organization: SGI CASE Products Group References: <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cray.com> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 16:34:00 GMT Lines: 10 In article <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cray.com>, dadams@cray.com (David Adams) writes: |> Gardens Alive offers 500 red earthworms for $19.95. I think this is a |> pretty steep price. It seems that I have seen a better price somewhere. |> Does anyone know? Smith and Hawken offers 2000 worms for $49.95 through their catalog so I split an order with my neighbor. Kim Rachmeler kim@wpd.sgi.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat May 29 18:46:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17801 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pitcher Plants as Cut Flowers Message-ID: <1993May28.084806.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 28 May 93 08:48:06 MDT References: <1993May27.194420.26763@spectrum.xerox.com> <1u3pngINNmk7@news.u.washington.edu> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 26 In article <1u3pngINNmk7@news.u.washington.edu>, bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) writes: > More and more lately I have seen flower shops selling "cobra lilies" as > cut flowers - these usually are actually the leaves of Sarracenia > leucophylla, a large trumpet-leaved pitcher plant with a white top > strikingly veined with red. I asked if these were wild collected, and the > owner said "yes, because they can't produce enough in cultivation." > Recently I started seeing other species sold this way. > > I would suggest that people not buy these - I have read reports that whole > stands are being cut for this trade. Most of these plants produce only > one flush of growth each spring; cutting off all the leaves renders them > unable to photosynthesize or catch their prey for most of the season. > > (And the woman in the shop told me "oh, it doesn't hurt anything - they > only take the leaves!") Yikes! That's pretty disturbing.... As a side note, live cobra lilies aren't allowed to be exported to Canada anymore (or any country I suppose), presumably because exports were creating pressures on wild populations. So I can't get one, but that's okay, the cause is worthwhile. However, if they are now just being wiped out for temporary bouquets then there seems to be a few loopholes in this "protect the wild" export policy. Don From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!not-for-mail Sat May 29 18:46:48 EDT 1993 Article: 17802 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!not-for-mail From: jfarmer@cs.utk.edu (JOHN FARMER) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Date: 28 May 1993 12:55:24 -0400 Organization: CS Department, University of Tennessee, Knoxville Lines: 59 Message-ID: <1u5g5sINNp4b@duncan.cs.utk.edu> References: <1993May13.162932.13144@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May27.124329.91907@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: duncan.cs.utk.edu In article <1993May27.124329.91907@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au> samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au writes: >In article <1993May13.162932.13144@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >> In article , farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: >>> About this time last year, I volunteered to do a Wildflower FAQ. (no, Kay, I >>> didn't forget. I started a project on Trillium, entered graduate school, >>> applied to the UTK Botany department, and took the GRE -- it's been a busy >>> year). >> > Is this going to be a wildflower faq like the world series is "world" series? >You mean North American wildflowers I think. Americans are not the only >people who use the net. (Thats why its called internet) and they're not >the only people with wildflowers. Enough yanky chauvanism please ! > > >samantha lane >samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au Actually, I don't think Susan was intending to slight the non-North American members of the net (No, I know she wasn't, I'm married to her! :^> Not a chauvinistic bone in her body.). If you really wanted to get picky, how do you define a wildflower? What is one in your neck of the woods may be an imported Florist "for big bucks arrangements only" specials here (my mother is a florist). Most of Susan's work has been with the native plants of the United States southeast, particularly of the southern Appalachian mountain chain (Tennessee, Viginina, North & South Carolina, etc). Just the amount of imformation that can be generated for the native plants alone is staggering (Just the stuff about Trillium is causing me to plan/build more bookshelves, moving *my* books around to make space for it, etc). Both Susan and I suspect that one "cover the world" wildflower FAQ would be too large to reasonably do or use. My suggestion (I get to tell her things "off-the-net"! :^>) has been that the wildflower FAQ get divided by type of information and the "native location" of the species. This would open it up to someone "down under" anwsering/filling-in the info for your native "wildflowers". This of course could also be tied into the various movements that advocate the use of native species for landscaping. (See recent thread about planting South African tulips & iris's instead of the Dutch varients for an example of this type of info at work.) Well, Susan has thrown out the notion of a wildflower FAQ. I've seen one note about wanting info on starting some, this note about "don't forget the rest of the world", and I suggested to her that we needed section about gathering (rescuing) wildflowers (when you can dig, what you can dig, and where you can dig). Anybody got suggestions? John T. -- John T. Farmer, Jr. jfarmer@cs.utk.edu Full-time Daddy, Part-time Grad Student, Full-time wage slave, Wood butcher when I can. My son's hero's are Capt. Jean Luc Picard, Norm Abrams, and Mr. Rogers! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!sequent!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!osshe.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer Sat May 29 18:46:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17803 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!sequent!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!osshe.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein2.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Ladybugs Date: 28 May 1993 16:06:41 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 26 Message-ID: <1u5dahINN3dn@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1993May26.154755.9585@slmed.spacelabs.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein2.u.washington.edu In article <1993May26.154755.9585@slmed.spacelabs.com> steveb@spacelabs.com (Steve Borchers) writes: >I enjoy setting out Ladybugs to control aphids and the like. There are >some problems, though: > >1. Expensive to buy ($5/pkg 1000)(+gas etc) >2. Hit-or-miss to even _find_ them in local nurseries >3. Once their food supply is gone, so are the Ladybugs. > >Is there a way to keep Ladybugs around? There is a granulated predator food called Pred-Feed (ask an organic garden store) that will keep them around while aphid supplies are low. It doesn't come cheap though. Around here (Seattle), the aphids usually hit mostly in spring and by summer things balance out, so I think that keeping them around most of the summer would cost more than the once or twice a year $5.00 a pop price. Perhaps providing a breeding >area and/or (non-invasive) food supply, or breeding in captivity? >Is there any reason I wouldn't _want_ to keep/breed them? I don't know how the pros do it, though it must be working for them. Anyone? Bob From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!ames!ncar!noao!stsci!yen Sat May 29 18:46:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17804 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!ames!ncar!noao!stsci!yen From: yen@stsci.edu (Felix Yen) Subject: re: red earthworms Message-ID: <1993May28.170217.1939@stsci.edu> Sender: news@stsci.edu Organization: Space Telescope Science Institute Distribution: na Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 17:02:17 GMT Lines: 39 David C. Adams (dadams@cray.com) writes: > Gardens Alive offers 500 red earthworms for $19.95. I think this is a > pretty steep price. It seems that I have seen a better price somewhere. > Does anyone know? Bountiful Gardens is charging a "mere" $15.00 for 500. But before you order from them or anyone else, make sure you're getting the right species of worm for your application. "Red earthworms" are probably Lumbricus rubellus which are fairly easy to buy and nice for composting, but they won't do well in your garden unless your soil is quite rich. Another common variety is the night crawler (Lumbricus terrestris) which also has some nice properties, e.g. they are deep burrowers and don't require as much food, but they aren't as active as other species and they're migratory. Thinking that my garden is a virtual worm prison, it being surrounded by concrete slabs and brick/stone walls, I implanted some Canadian night crawlers in the shady corner. One year later, while removing part of a brick path about 2 feet underground (I was digging a pit for assorted plant refuse), a large worm crawled out from beneath a brick. He/she was either one of the original Canadians (African night crawlers simply will not do at all) or one of his/her offspring. In any case, it clearly was not doing my plants much good hanging out underneath a layer of bricks. The best worms for garden use are common field worms (Allolobophora caliginosa) even if they're slow reproducers, and swamp worms (Pheretima) but both are hard to buy. I have yet to find a Pheretima dealer, but did manage to transplant a few earlier this year. (Live, damn it!) Your best bet might be buying castings or cocoons/eggs of an appropriate species. Last year, Gardener's Supply sold night crawler cocoons (I don't get their catalogue anymore) and Bountiful Gardens sells castings, but their catalogue does not indicate what species of worms/castings they are selling. The curious may call them at (707) 459 6410. Felix yen@stsci.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!syma!andy Sat May 29 18:46:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17805 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!syma!andy From: andy@syma.sussex.ac.uk (Andy Clews) Subject: Re: Ar-r-r-rgh! (pond story) Message-ID: <1993May28.162501.18186@syma.sussex.ac.uk> Organization: University of Sussex X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] References: Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 16:25:01 GMT Lines: 25 Karen Paulsell (karenp@sybase.com) wrote: : Gee, I put my pink plastic flamingos in the shed last summer, and : since winter, an egret has been visiting my tiny fish pond (now : covered with the bird netting usually used on fruit trees). : Maybe I'll get my goofball yard ornaments back out! I don't know so much about Egrets (there being no resident Egrets in the UK (?)), but a characteristic of Herons is that they stand absolutely motionless at the waterside waiting for a fish to wander by. This perhaps is why a Heron decoy works as it does. If Egrets move around a lot, maybe a decoy isn't going to work so well because they won't be so easily fooled. Fake Flamingoes probably won't work, because the Heron isn't bothered about them, as (a) they aren't "Herons" and (b) maybe Herons know that Flamingoes don't eat fish and don't represent competition?! As another poster says, I'd buy in fish by the ton if it meant having my own resident Egrets! -- Andy Clews, Computing Service, Univ. of Sussex, Brighton BN1 9QJ, England JANET: andy@uk.ac.sussex.syma OTHER NETWORKS: andy@syma.sussex.ac.uk From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!enterpoop.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat May 29 18:46:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17806 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!enterpoop.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Cold damage (?) to Tomatoes Message-ID: Date: 28 May 93 16:48:03 GMT References: Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University Lines: 35 stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) writes: > We had a cold wet spell (rain & day temperatures below 55 F) several >days after I transplanted my tomatoes outside. The lower leaves on many >of the plants now have brown-yellow spots on them. Are those just signs >of cold damage, or are they something more sinister, like disease? It doesn't sound like cold damage to me. Cold damaged leaves are usually either black, or (usually in tomatoes) greyish green and papery. > The plants had already grown larger than I would have liked before I >transplanted them. This is my first year growing my own tomato >seedlings, and I think I started them too early. Of course this has >been a really cold winter, too. There are several ways to protect tomato plants after you have put them in your garden. For instance you can buy a fancy wall-o-water (plastic with water in it), or you can put a few glass cloches on top, forming a ring around the plants. I put up four stakes, wrapped some clear plastic I had left from when I built my cold frame around them, and keep the plastic in position with steel wire. We've had several frost nights, but none of my tomatoes have any frost damage, though their site is quite exposed. > If my tomatoes were just a little bit "frost-bitten", I presume that >they will recover but just be a bit stunted. C'est la vie. I'd remove the leaves and check them to see if there are bugs under them. --Ceci, proud owner of a cold frame complete with white-fly -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== "All acts of love and pleasure are my acts." =================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Sat May 29 18:46:53 EDT 1993 Article: 17807 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: Ladybugs Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: <1993May26.154755.9585@slmed.spacelabs.com> <1u5dahINN3dn@news.u.washington.edu> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 17:20:20 GMT Lines: 31 In <1u5dahINN3dn@news.u.washington.edu> bbeer@stein2.u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) writes: >In article <1993May26.154755.9585@slmed.spacelabs.com> steveb@spacelabs.com (Steve Borchers) writes: >>I enjoy setting out Ladybugs to control aphids and the like. There are >>some problems, though: >> >>1. Expensive to buy ($5/pkg 1000)(+gas etc) >>2. Hit-or-miss to even _find_ them in local nurseries >>3. Once their food supply is gone, so are the Ladybugs. >> >>Is there a way to keep Ladybugs around? Strange as it may sound, planting something that aphids love will attract lots of aphids, and, therefore, aphid predators like ladybugs. It may also attract some of the aphids away from more desirable plantings. The high concentration of aphids is sure to attract predators into the area whereas low concentrations might not. Don't quote me on what to plant nor on whether it will work. I have just read about it and plan to do some experimenting myself. Let me know if you are interested in specific species that have this attraction and I'll double-check my notes and let you know. bye P.S. The oft-mentioned rhubarb leaf aphid spray worked for me last year when tested on roses. However, for large-scale gardening I still believe that encouraging a balance of natural predator/prey relationships is the way to go. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!enterpoop.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat May 29 18:46:54 EDT 1993 Article: 17808 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!enterpoop.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Lemon Thyme Message-ID: Date: 28 May 93 16:55:20 GMT References: <24617@mindlink.bc.ca> <1993May24.162923.1109@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University Lines: 20 Barry Carlson writes: >>If your plant is a thyme, the most likely candidate is Lemon Thyme (Thymus >>citriodorus). Another possibility is Doone Valley Lemon Thyme (Thymus >>pulegoides). (Regular old garden thyme is Thymus vulgaris). I have _Thymus citriodorus nana_ (nana means miniature) bought at a local nursery about a month ago. When I bought it, it had an apt yellow tinge to its leaves, but now it's just green, all over. It seems to be growing, so I'm not very worried, I was just wondering why it wasn't yellow anymore. It sits in a very shallow clay pot. I've bought _Thymus serpyllum_ seeds. What is it, if not regular thyme? Culinary usage? Not that it has germinated, but it may still... --Ceci, with sprouting Pulmonaria *strut* -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== "Where is the mythic archetype who will save us from ecological catastrophe or credit card debt?" Ian McDonald in _King_of_Morning,_Queen_of_Day_ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!ai-lab!guppy!marie Sat May 29 18:46:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17809 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!ai-lab!guppy!marie From: marie@ai.mit.edu (Marie Lamb) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Please help, this neophyte has no idea what she's doing! Date: 28 May 1993 17:11:29 GMT Organization: MIT Artificial Intelligence Laboratory Lines: 29 Sender: marie@guppy (Marie Lamb) Distribution: world Message-ID: <1u5h41INNa9a@life.ai.mit.edu> Reply-To: marie@ai.mit.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: guppy.ai.mit.edu Hi Folks, I've inherited a overgrown mess of flower beds that have not been tended properly in last few years. I'd really like to put them in shape, but I've never gardened before and I have no idea where to start. My immediate concern is the big rosebush in front. The edges of the buds turn brown before they even open up, and they sag under their own weight. Is this a sign of disease, or does it need to be pruned? How does one take care of roses? It also looks like the bush is listing to one side. Should I stake it to something? Other than dandelions and thistles, I am clueless about the difference between unwanted weeds and desired plants. Is there a good basic book on plant identification that anyone can recommend? Some of the stuff in the beds looks like weeds, but I thought one plant was a weed and a week later it was covered with delicate little yellow blossoms and looks pretty nice now. It still could be a weed, but at least it's a good looking one! Any other suggestions for reclaiming these beds would be appreciated. What should be my first step? What are the tools that I can't do without? Mucho thanks!! Marie From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!spool.mu.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!nstn.ns.ca!dragon.acadiau.ca!admin.acadiau.ca!cathy Sat May 29 18:46:55 EDT 1993 Article: 17810 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!spool.mu.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!nstn.ns.ca!dragon.acadiau.ca!admin.acadiau.ca!cathy From: cathy@admin.acadiau.ca (CATHY MORINE-COLLINS) Subject: HERBS - CARAWAY SEEDS Message-ID: Lines: 12 Sender: news@dragon.acadiau.ca Nntp-Posting-Host: 131.162.34.41 Organization: Acadia University Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 18:24:08 GMT Lines: 12 Hi, I planted caraway last year and it's seeds (fruit) are just coming along. Do I take the seed are off just below where the seeds are or should i take the whole stalk. I've used the leaves before, but this is the first bunch of seeds I've had. thanks cathy From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!destroyer!fmsrl7!lynx.unm.edu!dns1.NMSU.Edu!opus!lrosul Sat May 29 18:46:56 EDT 1993 Article: 17811 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!destroyer!fmsrl7!lynx.unm.edu!dns1.NMSU.Edu!opus!lrosul From: lrosul@nmsu.edu (Linda Rosul) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Where to deadhead pansies? Date: 28 May 93 11:57:42 Organization: Computing Research Lab Lines: 7 Distribution: na Message-ID: References: <121145@bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ismaros.nmsu.edu In-reply-to: vida@crsa.bu.edu's message of 28 May 93 13:19:43 GMT In article <121145@bu.edu> vida@crsa.bu.edu (Vida Jakabhazy) writes: > Do you simply snip the spent flower off or do you remove the stem on > which it grew, as well? I always take the whole stem off. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!dilithium.sps.mot.com!jerry_young Sat May 29 18:46:57 EDT 1993 Article: 17812 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!dilithium.sps.mot.com!jerry_young From: Jerry Young Subject: Re: Viburnum with aphids!! Message-ID: <1993May28.174153.20586@newsgate.sps.mot.com> X-Xxmessage-Id: X-Xxdate: Fri, 28 May 93 12:44:02 GMT Sender: news@newsgate.sps.mot.com Nntp-Posting-Host: dilithium.sps.mot.com Organization: Motorola RISC Applications X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16 References: <1993May28.112315.1@stsci.edu> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 17:41:53 GMT Lines: 26 In article <1993May28.112315.1@stsci.edu> Robin, auer@stsci.edu writes: >Just about a couple of weeks ago I planted a Viburnum opulus 'Roseum'. This >shrub came in a 3-4 gal container, so it was pretty hardy. Well since I >have planted it -- it is invaded with aphids and even some black ants! >They are all over the new growth and are shrivelling up my leaves. Now >this shrub looks like it is dying. I have some spray that the garden center >said I could use and I have tried it. But these blasted bugs keep coming >back. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do. Or did I just pick >a viburnum that will have bugs for life - and if so - will it eventually >kill the shrub? > >Robin Auer >Catonsville, Maryland I never can predict what the aphids in our yard will take to from one year to the next. This year it was the flowering quince and the manfreda flower. They used to worry me a lot. This year all we have done is take a high-pressure nozzle and just blast those suckers off. We only had to do it once. You may be less lucky, but it's worth trying. Jerry jerry_l_young@oakqm3.sps.mot.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!mcsun!sunic!liuida!isy!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat May 29 18:46:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17813 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!mcsun!sunic!liuida!isy!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Subject: Re: labels for rose gardens?? Message-ID: Keywords: retentiveness Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University References: <143740002@capella.cup.hp.com> <1993May25.165920.1166@newstand.syr.edu> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 17:09:00 GMT Lines: 28 jareed@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Judith Ann Reed) writes: >Do any of the rest of you have this compulsion? Is it normal, or is >it a sign of something??? Do you label with scientific or common >names, or both??? Definitely. I label my seed trays and cuttings. Apart from the practical advantages (Wonder what this is?!?), it somehow makes me proud to read the labels "Fuchsia, single", "Fuchsia, double", "Aconitum napellus", "Iris sibirica" and so on. I also like to have my herbs labeled, because this spring I dug up four clumps of herbs, tossed the one that looked most week, and ended up with three pots of peppermint, and _no_ balm. :( Now I've labeled the narcissus aswell. I label with scientific names, whenever possible, because I love them. Especially the "L." after some of them. ;) It took a few labels before I realised that I had to write the name the "wrong way" from top to bottom. The clay labels sounded very neat, maybe I'll make some for my little herb still life in terracotta pots on the patio. --Ceci, loving to be an art student -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== Hildesheim in Niedersachsen, Deutschland hat einen tausendjaehrigen Rosenbusch und den schoensten, wiederaufgebauten, Marktplatz der Welt. =================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!news Sat May 29 18:46:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17814 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!news From: donath@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (Matt Donath) Subject: Re: red earthworms Sender: news@news.uiowa.edu (News) Message-ID: <1993May28.180147.25617@news.uiowa.edu> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 18:01:47 GMT References: Nntp-Posting-Host: herky.cs.uiowa.edu Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA Lines: 15 >From article , by kim@castle.wpd.sgi.com (Kim Rachmeler): > In article <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cray.com>, dadams@cray.com (David Adams) writes: > |> Gardens Alive offers 500 red earthworms for $19.95. I think this is a > |> pretty steep price. It seems that I have seen a better price somewhere. > |> Does anyone know? > > Smith and Hawken offers 2000 worms for $49.95 through their > catalog so I split an order with my neighbor. > > Kim Rachmeler > kim@wpd.sgi.com > I paid $9 for 1000 from a Florida mail order place. They've changed their name, I think, but they used to be Clausen's. They have an ad in the back of Organic Gardening. The address is the same. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!elc18!jdennis Sat May 29 18:47:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17815 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!elc18!jdennis From: jdennis@mtgy.gtegsc.com (John Dennis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Orchid Bark Date: 28 May 1993 18:20:41 GMT Organization: GTE Federal Systems Division Lines: 26 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1u5l5p$hcr@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> Reply-To: jdennis@mtgy.gtegsc.com NNTP-Posting-Host: elc18.mtgy.gtegsc.com Hello, I have a orchid plant that is in need of a repotting. The problem is that orchids need to be planted in special material. This one requires fir bark. Does anyone know of some good distributors of bark for orchids? Thanks in advance, John ---------------------------------------------------------------------- | | | | jdennis@mtgy.gtegsc.com | I WILL NOT FAKE MY WAY THROUGH LIFE | | | I WILL NOT FAKE MY WAY THROUGH LIFE | | GTE Federal Systems Division | I WILL NOT FAKE MY WAY THROUGH LIFE | | Montgomery, AL | | | | Chalkboard on Simpsons | ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb Sat May 29 18:47:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17816 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb From: barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tomatoes vs Black Walnut Trees Date: 28 May 1993 17:47:40 GMT Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH Lines: 15 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1u5j7s$epr@meaddata.meaddata.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: firstaid.meaddata.com I have black walnut trees, located not too close to my garden. But I remember reading that you shouldn't locate a compost heap under black walnut trees, which is where mine is. What is it about black walnuts that makes them such a threat? If I make sure I don't get the leaves (or walnuts) into the compost heap is it still a problem? -- Barbara Bruns Technical Communications & Education Mead Data Central barb@meaddata.com P.O. Box 933 ...!uunet!meaddata!barb Dayton, OH 45401 The opinions expressed here by me are not necessarily those of Mead Data Central; nor would they much care about the things about which I have opinions. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Sat May 29 18:47:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17817 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: Flowering broccoli Message-ID: <1993May28.183853.22142@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 18:38:53 GMT Lines: 28 In article: jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (jean reese) asks: >Our brocolli is flowering, nice yellow flowers. Are we supposed to >let it do that, or is it supposed to flower? Is it too late to do anything >about it? > >Thanks for your help. > >Jean Broccoli is in the mustard family. All parts are edible but some may be too tough to enjoy or too spicy for some tastes. It is too late to eat your broccoli as standard broccoli. If it has just started flowering, you can eat it as-is and it will taste good, too. If the flowers are really all spread apart (they get quite 'leggy'), you can wait for the seed pods which are quite tasty either raw in salads, or cooked. The yellow flowers are good raw in salads, too, but their stems get tough. BTW, you can treat radish flowers and seed pods the same way. They taste almost the same too. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Sat May 29 18:47:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17818 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!mintaka.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Subject: Re: Watering question Message-ID: <1993May28.184115.22311@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Sender: news@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 18:41:15 GMT Lines: 17 >In article nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu (Bob Klebba) writes: >>> Is there any nutritional benefit to be gained by plants from watering >>> them with the (cooled) water vegetables have been cooked in? >> >>Yes, the stock will add some nitrogen to the soil. I'd be interested to >>hear whether it makes a difference. This should be ok as long as you don't SALT your cooking water. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!dhruva!molly Sat May 29 18:47:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17819 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!dhruva!molly From: molly@dhruva (Molly Deich) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: starting perennial flowers from seed Date: 28 May 1993 18:54:02 GMT Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena Lines: 22 Message-ID: <1u5n4aINN3db@gap.caltech.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: dhruva.caltech.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] Susan J Saari (saari@magnus.acs.ohio-state.EDU) wrote: : This year I tried starting some perennials from seed in my basement under : lights for the first time. With vegies and annuals I have always started : the seeds in flats of vermiculite and then transferred them to small pots : with potting soil when they get big enough to handle. This has always Even in the sunny climate of Southern California, my perennials from seed (shasta daisy, coreopsis, geranium, baby's breath, achillea, statice, for example) take a long time to grow. Most will bloom by the end of the summer (I usually plant the seeds in February or so), but they really don't take off until the following year. Granted, this cycle takes a lot of patience and good will, as well as regular feeding and watering, but I think the returns are eminently worth it. I am especially pleased, by the way, by geraniums from seed. This winter (December, I think) I started some "Hollywood" geraniums, and now at the end of May I have a dozen stocky blooming plants in several different colors, all at a cost of $3 and six months. Molly Deich From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sat May 29 18:47:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17820 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Pickles Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 19:09:11 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 8 Could someone refresh my memory on the types of pots/kettles for pickling brine? I recall that you're not supposed to use aluminum -- is that because of bad effects on the brine, or bad effects on the pot? What other restrictions/recommendations are there? Thanks one and all, Gary Hypes From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!lehigh.edu!den0 Sat May 29 18:47:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17821 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!lehigh.edu!den0 From: den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: red earthworms Message-ID: Date: 28 May 93 18:51:51 GMT References: <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cray.com> Sender: usenet@Lehigh.EDU Organization: Lehigh University Computing Center Lines: 14 Nntp-Posting-Host: 128.180.3.20 In article <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cray.com> dadams@cray.com (David Adams) writes: >Gardens Alive offers 500 red earthworms for $19.95. I think this is a >pretty steep price. It seems that I have seen a better price somewhere. >Does anyone know? Look in the back of Field & Stream or Outdoor Life. If you cant find them for around $10 per 1000, then let me know, and I can get you a couple of addresses, or if you know someone who is a member of the American Rabbit Breeders Association, ask them for a copy of Domestic Rabbits, there are always several ads in the back. Dean Nelson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!silver.ucs.indiana.edu!jereese Sat May 29 18:47:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17822 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!silver.ucs.indiana.edu!jereese From: jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (jean reese) Subject: Re: Flowering broccoli Message-ID: Sender: news@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: silver.ucs.indiana.edu Organization: Indiana University References: <1993May28.183853.22142@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 20:01:16 GMT Lines: 17 Thanks to everyone who responded to my question about flowering broccoli. Live and learn ... I was waiting for the brocolli to get a lot of "unopened buds", packed closely together like the kind you can buy in a store. The brocolli we grew was more decorative than edible. Is there a 'miracle gro' for the broccoli that will enable it to pack more buds together? Thanks for all your help. Jean -- Gonzo! Get your chickens out of my dressing room!! - Kermit jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!msuinfo!caen!malgudi.oar.net!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!sundare Sat May 29 18:47:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17823 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!msuinfo!caen!malgudi.oar.net!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!sundare From: sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan) Subject: damaged dwarf mugho pines Sender: news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster) Message-ID: Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 19:58:34 GMT Distribution: usa Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM. Nntp-Posting-Host: fiddler.watson.ibm.com Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center Lines: 13 I had a swarming infestation of caterpillars (black ones) on my mugho pines, and before I detected it, they did a LOT of damage. Has anyone got advice re: pruning branches off, regrowth, etc. The little new candles on the tips seem OK but a LOT of the original needles are stripped. I doubt if the needles will regrow on the bare branches, but before I do anything drastic, I'd like to hear from anyone with experience. Chris Sundaresan From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!bradley.bradley.edu!larry Sat May 29 18:47:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17824 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!bradley.bradley.edu!larry From: larry@bradley.bradley.edu (L. D. Stratton) Subject: Re: Orchid Bark Message-ID: <1993May28.202025.13822@bradley.bradley.edu> Organization: Bradley University References: <1u5l5p$hcr@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> Date: Fri, 28 May 93 20:20:25 GMT Lines: 22 In <1u5l5p$hcr@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> jdennis@mtgy.gtegsc.com (John Dennis) writes: >Hello, >I have a orchid plant that is in need of a repotting. The problem is that >orchids need to be planted in special material. This one requires fir bark. >Does anyone know of some good distributors of bark for orchids? >Thanks in advance, >John John, Since you are talking one orchid, head for your local garden shop. You may have to hit 3 or 4 but one of them should have something. BTW, orchids grow in a variety of media, fir bark is just one of them. ld From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!bcm!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!mwk!locsin Sat May 29 18:47:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17825 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!bcm!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!mwk!locsin From: locsin@mwk.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: gladiola problems Message-ID: <1993May28.140146.1437@mwk.com> Date: 28 May 93 14:01:46 CST Organization: M. W. Kellogg, Houston TX Lines: 22 I planted 4 gladiola bulbs in an 8 inch pot second week of April. They grew just fine and the leaves are now 2 feet tall. They looked so healthy until two weeks ago when one plant started having yellow and brown streaks on its leaves. Now that plant is 50% yellow and brown. The leaves are still standing tall and are not drooping over. Is this a diesease and is it contagious? should I pull the plant out of the pot? Could the yellowing be from over watering? The pot has well drained soil but it sits outside and we have been getting a lot of rain lately. I also fed it a little 20-20-20 solution 3 weeks ago. I planted some portulaca in the same pot - could this be the problem? Can anyone tell me when they should start blooming? The leaves have not been getting any bigger and I see no signs of flowers at all - sigh.... Thanks for hearing me out and if any one cares to offer any guesses or help just post or send mail to locsin@mwk.com Thanks Ria Locsin From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!e2big.mko.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!star.dec.com!dipirro Sat May 29 18:47:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17826 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!e2big.mko.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!star.dec.com!dipirro From: dipirro@star.dec.com (Steve DiPirro) Subject: Re: Beneficial Nematodes Message-ID: <1993May28.200549.19458@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> Sender: usenet@nntpd.lkg.dec.com (USENET News System) Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation References: <1993May27.115643.3305@hemlock.cray.com> Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 20:13:19 GMT Lines: 14 In article <1993May27.115643.3305@hemlock.cray.com>, dadams@cray.com (David Adams) writes... >Do Beneficial Nematodes survive in the soil through the winter? No. A hard frost or frozen ground will kill the nematodes. I confirmed this with a company that breeds and sells the nematodes after I suspected a light frost might have killed mine. ------------ Steve DiPirro dipirro@star.enet.dec.com /\ USE THIS || ADDRESS, not what's in the header ------------ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!caen!batcomputer!news.graphics.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet Sat May 29 18:47:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17827 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!caen!batcomputer!news.graphics.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet From: Thomas Bjorkman Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Killing Weeds:Roundup Date: 28 May 1993 20:39:26 GMT Organization: Cornell University Lines: 25 Sender: tnb1@cornell.edu (Verified) Distribution: world Message-ID: <1u5t9uINNbj7@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> References: <24726@mindlink.bc.ca> <1993May27.164026.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> <1993May28.111132.1@bb1t.monsanto.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 132.236.4.159 X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7 X-XXDate: Fri, 28 May 93 16:40:14 GMT In article <24726@mindlink.bc.ca> Barry Carlson, Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca writes: >I have just been reading "The Environmental Gardener" by Laurence Sombke >(MasterMedia Ltd.,New York, 1991) where he states, and I quote: "2,4-D, often >sold under the name Weed-B-Gone, and glyphosphate, sold under the name >Kleenup, Roundup and Killzall, are both highly toxic to bees and fish as well >as to weeds." > >Does anyone have any more information about this? Have any studies been done >that anyone knows of? -Moira Carlson The answers to questions like this are always on the label. There are even very specific instructions for applying the material so that it does not hurt desirable things (Like bees and fish and your oleander). Reading the label is so important that it is a federal crime not to read it and follow the instrucitons to the letter. It can be impressive how much information is on those labels. I just saw one that had 10 pages listing the tree species that it was OK to use the stuff on. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!garyj Sat May 29 18:47:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17828 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!garyj From: garyj@microsoft.com (Gary L. Jackson (USA)) Subject: Re: labels for rose gardens?? Message-ID: <1993May28.173318.4923@microsoft.com> Date: 28 May 93 17:33:18 GMT Organization: Microsoft Corp. References: <1993May25.165920.1166@newstand.syr.edu> <1993May26.150328.29038@almserv.uucp> Distribution: usa Lines: 15 Just my 2-cents on labelling. I've used flexible white plastic markers, store-bought, or recycle the "back sides" of markers from pony paks at the nursery. I've noticed that the "indelible" black markers fade in the sun. But a nice lady at a plant sale told me to use plain old graphite pencil on white plastic. It works if the plastic has right texture: four years later I can read the pencil from the little start I bought from her [saponaria off. 'bouncing bet' - now a large clump!] I have to label! I plant 'em and forget 'em.... happy gardening gary jackson garyj@microsoft.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Sat May 29 18:47:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17829 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Lemon Thyme & T.serphyllum Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 23:06:02 GMT Message-ID: <24799@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 23 In response to Cecilia Henningsson: ceci@lysator.liu.se >I have _Thymus citriodorus nana_ (nana means miniature) bought at a local nursery about a month ago. When I bought it, it had an apt yellow tinge to its leaves, but now it's just green, all over. It seems to be growing, so I'm not very worried, I was just wondering why it wasn't yellow anymore. I just checked my plant and about half the growth on it is green. My guess is that the new growth comes in green and turns more yellow later. As long as your plant is growing and looking healthy I wouldn't worry about it. >I've bought _Thymus serpyllum_ seeds. What is it, if not regular thyme? Culinary usage? Not that it has germinated, but it may still... Thymus serphyllum is Mother-of-Thyme. Other common names for it are Wild Thyme, Creeping Thyme and, just to be absolutely confusing, Lemon Thyme. This plant has a more prostrate habit than Garden Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) and is really beautiful as a ground cover or flowing over a rock wall. It is pretty compact so it looks good all year but when it flowers it is absolutely stunning (pinky-purple carpet time). The bees absolutely love it. Normally it is not used for culinary purposes because T.vulgaris has a stronger and more pronounced flavour, but you could use it as a substitute if you didn't have any T.vulgaris. -Moira Carlson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!mdisea!mothost!lmpsbbs!mrkos!krueger Sat May 29 18:47:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17830 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!mdisea!mothost!lmpsbbs!mrkos!krueger From: krueger@ssd.comm.mot.com (Kevin Krueger) Subject: Thanks for the info on shady stuff Reply-To: krueger@ssd.comm.mot.com Organization: Motorola LMPS Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 20:31:51 GMT Message-ID: <1993May28.203151.11045@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> Sender: news@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: 145.1.54.204 Lines: 7 To all those who responded and replied to my request for info. on shady plants - Thanks!! I was finally able to get out and get some astilbe. Unfortunately, one has to take out a loan just to buy enough plants from a nursery to cover any sizable area. So it goes. Thanks again. Kevin From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kkolling Sat May 29 18:47:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17831 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kkolling From: kkolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: using grass treated with chemicals as a mulch Message-ID: <1993May29.002601.16996@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: <1u2tvh$oqm@bigbird.hri.com> <1993May27.165633.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Date: Sat, 29 May 1993 00:26:01 GMT Lines: 13 In article <1993May27.165633.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca writes: >In article <1u2tvh$oqm@bigbird.hri.com>, rudolph@sparc20.hri.com (David Rudolph) writes: >> I recently read that grass which has been treated with a broadleaf weed >> herbicide should not be used as mulch in a vegetable garden. While this >> makes sense, the author didn't specify how long after using chemicals it >> might be safe to use the grass. I have already mulched my strawberries >> with grass that I treated with Scotts Halt about 1 year ago. > >Relax! Most of the commercial herbicides breakdown in a week or two! I believe California law only allows produce to be sold as "organic" if no herbicides, etc. have been used on the farm in the past three years. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat May 29 18:47:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17832 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Killing Weeds:Roundup Message-ID: <1993May28.155222.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 28 May 93 15:52:22 MDT References: <24726@mindlink.bc.ca> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 8 In article , john0130@student.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) writes: > Some info on glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup, Kleenup, etc. > > Glyphosate will usually kill most plants that is is sprayed on in the > landscape, at least for herbaceous plants. I'm not sure how it affects > woody plants, as I have never tried it. Sprayed on an eight foot birch tree, it kills it completely. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!bcstec!plato!mattb Sat May 29 18:47:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17833 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!bcstec!plato!mattb From: mattb@plato.ds.boeing.com (Matt Baney) Subject: Re: Killing Weeds:Roundup Message-ID: Reply-To: mattb@plato.boeing.com (Matt Baney) Organization: Boeing Defense & Space Group References: <24726@mindlink.bc.ca> <1993May27.153517.22924@leo.vsla.edu> <1993May27.164026.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> Date: Sat, 29 May 1993 00:06:40 GMT Lines: 27 In article <1993May27.164026.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu writes: >In article <1993May27.153517.22924@leo.vsla.edu>, ccaywood@leo.vsla.edu (Carolyn Caywood) writes: >> I have an infestation of 'sheep sorrel' around mulched >> shrubbery. The only advice for getting rid of it that I've >> heard so far is 'Roundup' so I too am concerned. I don't want >> Carolyn Caywood >===== >What our local garden editor (aptly named "Jack Eden") recommends in >situations like this is that you mix roundup (or the ortho equivalent, >Kleenup) half and half with water in a can. Then take a paint brush and >carefully paint the weeds taking care to avoid getting any on your Can weeds/vegetation that was killed by Roundup be composted? What is its active lifespan in the soil/air? I have been offered some grass clipping compost and I have some my self that may contain stuff that was hit with Roundup (or the like), is it a good idea to go ahead and mix that stuff into my compost pile? thanks matt baney -- | Matt Baney | Boeing Defense and Space Division | | ----------------- | Knowledge Systems Group | | "I can't tolerate | UUCP: ..!bcstec!plato!mattb | | intolerant people!" | Internet: mattb@plato.ds.boeing.com | From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Sat May 29 18:47:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17834 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Using grass treated with chemicals as a mulch Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Sat, 29 May 1993 03:39:35 GMT Message-ID: <24805@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 38 Regarding grass treated with chemicals, David Rudolph: rudolph@sparc20.hri.com writes: >I recently read that grass which has been treated with a broadleaf >weed herbicide should not be used as mulch in a vegetable garden. >While this makes sense, the author didn't specify how long after >using chemicals it might be safe to use the grass. I have already >mulched my strawberries with grass that I treated with Scotts Halt >about 1 year ago. >Does anyone know how long these chemicals remain in the grass, and >whether a year is long enough to make the grass safe? I was just re-reading a copy of Organic Gardening Magazine (January 1993 issue) where this exact topic was discussed in their "Solutions" section (Page 25). The answer they gave was as follows: "...Unfortunately, there are no easy answers. According to the University; of Illinois Center for Solid waste Management Research, some common herbicides can stay active for a full year. "Once these herbicides are introduced into your garden, some could be taken up by plants. So, yes-theoretically, you may get traces of these toxins in the food you grow," says Joe Pignatello, Ph.D., a scientist who studies pesticide breakdown at the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station. Scientific research on how pesticides and herbicides break down in the compost pile is just beginning, but the consensus is that some of these substances may survive the composting process. Whether they do or not depends on just which pesticide or herbicide was used; different chemicals break down at different rates. And the conditions within the compost pile (heat, moisture, pH, etc.) also affect the rate at which any introduced toxins will disappear. With all these variables, there's just no way for the average backyard gardener to tell when (or if) compost ingredients that started out tainted become safe for organic food growing. So, the answer for the truly organic is no-just don't do it. Don't use herbicide or pesticide treated plant material as mulch or add it to your compost pile..." Hope this helps. -Moira Carlson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!hri.com!sparc20!rudolph Sat May 29 18:47:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17835 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!hri.com!sparc20!rudolph From: rudolph@sparc20.hri.com (David Rudolph) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: using grass treated with chemicals as a mulch Date: 27 May 1993 17:32:33 GMT Organization: Horizon Research Lines: 17 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1u2tvh$oqm@bigbird.hri.com> Reply-To: rudolph@sparc20.hri.com (David Rudolph) NNTP-Posting-Host: sparc20.hri.com I recently read that grass which has been treated with a broadleaf weed herbicide should not be used as mulch in a vegetable garden. While this makes sense, the author didn't specify how long after using chemicals it might be safe to use the grass. I have already mulched my strawberries with grass that I treated with Scotts Halt about 1 year ago. Does anyone know how long these chemicals remain in the grass, and whether a year is long enough to make the grass safe? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- David Rudolph | phone: (617) 466-8370 Horizon Research, Inc. | email: rudolph@hri.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!balsam!unca!strauss Sat May 29 18:47:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17836 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!balsam!unca!strauss From: strauss@uncavx.unca.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: more on Chives Date: 27 May 93 13:20:51 EDT Organization: University of North Carolina at Asheville Lines: 5 Message-ID: <1993May27.132051.1@uncavx.unca.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: uncavx.unca.edu I have been enjoying the discussion on chives, but doesn't anyone else eat the flowers? They are delicious, and mild. My wife has gotten me hooked. Plus, it is nice to have these little pink things on a salad. Bob Strauss From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!csc.ti.com!tilde.csc.ti.com!cauldron!epcot!drogers Sat May 29 18:47:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17837 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!csc.ti.com!tilde.csc.ti.com!cauldron!epcot!drogers From: drogers@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Daty Rogers) Subject: Re: The amazing color-changing rose Message-ID: <1993May27.171455.21339@spdc.ti.com> Sender: usenet@spdc.ti.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: epcot Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center References: Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 17:14:55 GMT Lines: 19 In article laura j zurawski writes: > >suburbs, there was this rather established rosebush in the backyard >that produced large, yellow flowers. >Then, all of a sudden, one season we noticed it was starting to >smaller red flowers... now, we checked, and re-checked, and we are >pretty darn certain that it's the same exact plant and not another The rootstock is growing and producing it's own flowers. This usually means the plant grafted onto the rootstalk (which produced the yellow flowers) is dead now. if you wanted the yellow roses, sorry, if the red are ok, then this plant will probably be much hardier than before. BTW, I have noticed on many flowering plants that the "paler" the color, the less hardy that plant is. Except for bloodred lantanas(naturally d8^). Is this true, or am I just looking at a lot of exceptions? Daty From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!uvaarpa!leo!ccaywood Sat May 29 18:47:24 EDT 1993 Article: 17838 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!uvaarpa!leo!ccaywood From: ccaywood@leo.vsla.edu (Carolyn Caywood) Subject: Re: HELP: PILLBUGS Message-ID: <1993May27.151442.22608@leo.vsla.edu> Organization: Virginia State Library References: Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 15:14:42 GMT Lines: 11 I too endorse _Tiny Game Hunting_. And I think most slug remedies also work on isopods. At least, they always show up in my slug beer traps. One more possibility: I have observed that house spiders feast on sow/pill/rolly pollies. The damp climate here means that isopods are a house pest and the main control seems to be spiders. So, if you have any spiders living in dark corners, you might carefully transfer them to an overturned pot or something in the neighborhood of your seedlings. Carolyn Caywood ccaywood@leo.vsla.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!uvaarpa!leo!ccaywood Sat May 29 18:47:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17839 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!uvaarpa!leo!ccaywood From: ccaywood@leo.vsla.edu (Carolyn Caywood) Subject: Re: Killing Weeds:Roundup Message-ID: <1993May27.153517.22924@leo.vsla.edu> Organization: Virginia State Library References: <24726@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 15:35:17 GMT Lines: 12 I have an infestation of 'sheep sorrel' around mulched shrubbery. The only advice for getting rid of it that I've heard so far is 'Roundup' so I too am concerned. I don't want to get that on my oleander on in Chesapeake Bay. Golden's guide to Weeds says liming the soil will discourage sheep sorrel. And what will it say to the oleander? I have tried hand pulling the 'ss' but it spreads through its root system -- fine, yellow, elastic, threads that are impossible to extract. Suggestions? Carolyn Caywood From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal Sat May 29 18:47:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17840 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle!moskal From: moskal@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Tera Moskal) Subject: Does grass-b-gone kill everything? Message-ID: Summary: Is grass killer discrimatory? Keywords: grass Sender: usenet@news.acns.nwu.edu (Usenet on news.acns) Nntp-Posting-Host: unseen3.acns.nwu.edu Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois, USA Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 14:51:32 GMT Lines: 4 If I use grass-b-gone on an area where grass has invaded my ivy ground cover, will it kill everything, or does it discrimate and just kill the grass? Tera Moskal moskal@ccadmin.tech.nwu.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!silver.ucs.indiana.edu!jereese Sat May 29 18:47:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17841 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!silver.ucs.indiana.edu!jereese From: jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (jean reese) Subject: Flowering brocolli Message-ID: Sender: news@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: silver.ucs.indiana.edu Organization: Indiana University Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 17:55:29 GMT Lines: 12 Our brocolli is flowering, nice yellow flowers. Are we supposed to let it do that, or is it supposed to flower? Is it too late to do anything about it? Thanks for your help. Jean -- Gonzo! Get your chickens out of my dressing room!! - Kermit jereese@silver.ucs.indiana.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!ccwf.cc.utexas.edu!daoffer Sat May 29 18:47:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17842 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!ccwf.cc.utexas.edu!daoffer From: daoffer@doc.cc.utexas.edu (Debora Offer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Sorrel Question Date: 27 May 93 12:55:35 Organization: The University of Texas at Austin Lines: 16 Distribution: na Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: doc.cc.utexas.edu Hi, I was wondering how safe it is to eat sorrel. I know it's an herb that is supposed to be used as an accent to salads but other than that I don't know very much about it. The reason I ask is my son tried some the other day and seemed to like it. I encouraged him to eat as much as he wanted since that was probably the first leafy green vegetable he's eaten in months but now I'm worried. I seem to remember a discussion about the problems with oxalic acid and the sorrel tastes very much like my oxalis plants. (I used to eat oxalis when I was little. :-)) Any help would be appreciated. -- Please reply to the following address. The old one (ccwf) is running at 4 times overcapacity! \__ __/ Debora offer@mamba.asg.arlut.utexas.edu \__ __/ T any opinions expressed are mine, not necessarily my employers T From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams Sat May 29 18:47:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17843 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams) Subject: Beneficial Nematodes Message-ID: <1993May27.115643.3305@hemlock.cray.com> Lines: 14 Nntp-Posting-Host: cherry10 Reply-To: dadams@cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Date: 27 May 93 11:56:43 CDT Do Beneficial Nematodes survive in the soil through the winter? I ask because they are quite expensive, I wouldn't want to buy some if they don't increase and multiply and remain to go to work next year. --- --David C. Adams Statistician Cray Research Inc. dadams@cray.com -Sourdough and Ham- N0WWN Old Cowboys never die. They just smell that way! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!well!hank Sat May 29 18:47:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17844 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!well!hank From: hank@well.sf.ca.us (Hank Roberts) Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Message-ID: Sender: news@well.sf.ca.us Nntp-Posting-Host: well.sf.ca.us Organization: The Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link, Sausalito, CA References: <1993May13.162932.13144@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May27.124329.91907@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au> <1u5g5sINNp4b@duncan.cs.utk.edu> Date: Sat, 29 May 1993 18:19:19 GMT Lines: 5 We could have a FAQ for every day of the year :-) the wildflowers change so fast. Looking forward to this. Does anybody need any manzanita? I seem to have a whole lot of it ..... :w From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail Sat May 29 18:47:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17845 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail From: davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: red earthworms Message-ID: <1u8ehj$8n9@ursula.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 29 May 93 05:45:55 GMT Article-I.D.: ursula.1u8ehj$8n9 Lines: 17 NNTP-Posting-Host: ursula.ee.pdx.edu In article <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cray.com> dadams@cray.com (David Adams) writes: >Gardens Alive offers 500 red earthworms for $19.95. I think this is a >pretty steep price. It seems that I have seen a better price somewhere. >Does anyone know? Last year, my garden was void of worms. It was also in serious need of organic matter... so when I heard the local zoo was selling elephant manure by the truckload, I jumped at the chance. I let the manure sit for a few months on top of the soil, and then tilled it in. I have *never* seen so many worms in one place. You might see if your zoo has a similar deal (here it is advertised by word of mouth only... it takes one month to get a reservation)! We got it for $8 a pickup load. -David Robinson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail Sat May 29 18:47:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17846 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail From: davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Onions Message-ID: <1u8f34$8ri@ursula.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 29 May 93 05:55:16 GMT Article-I.D.: ursula.1u8f34$8ri Lines: 11 NNTP-Posting-Host: ursula.ee.pdx.edu So far, my Walla Walla Sweet Onions seem to be doing well. They have been flowering profusly. I've heard that you are supposed to pick the blooms off in order to develop a large bulb. So, I've been nipping the tips off (I didn't want to break the stalk because I thought the hollow insides might make a "smoke stack" which would dry the bulb out). However, I've noticed that several are starting to send up additional seed stalks. Am I doing something wrong? -David Robinson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!bp816 Sun May 30 12:43:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17847 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!bp816 From: bp816@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Krivis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: When to transplant tulips-daffodils etc. Date: 30 May 1993 00:00:25 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 13 Message-ID: <1u8tep$eau@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: Reply-To: bp816@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Krivis) NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, shulaw@nd.edu () says: >When is the right time to transplant tulips, daffodils, hyacinths etc? >I'd like to put some annuals where the perennials are but I don't want to >hurt the bulbs by moving them to early. Thanks!! > >Janet.i.shulaw.1@nd.edu > I'm not sure about the others, but daffodils are best transplanted once the leaves have turned brown and died back. Dig them up and separate them. You can replant them in the fall if you want to. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!bp816 Sun May 30 12:43:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17848 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!bp816 From: bp816@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Krivis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Do BIG white pine trees topple easily? Date: 30 May 1993 00:03:34 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 17 Message-ID: <1u8tkm$ekj@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <1993May25.164815.6419@linus.mitre.org> Reply-To: bp816@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Stuart Krivis) NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, vv@mbunix.mitre.org (Ventrone) says: >I have a white pine tree in front of my house which is at least 60 feet >tall and 3 1/2 feet in diameter. Also, the trunk forks about 10 feet >from the ground, and one of the forks divides again about 15 feet farther >up. Every time there is a high wind I think about that tree. I have >heard that white pines have shallow root systems, and that forks in the >trunk are areas that can turn into cavities. Also, the soil is quite >sandy. > >Should I be concerned about this tree toppling onto my house someday? >Or possibly splitting where the trunk forks? > As far as I know, white pines have long tap roots. They should be pretty safe near a house. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!news.cs.indiana.edu!babbage.ece.uc.edu!ucunix.san.uc.edu!peterson Sun May 30 12:43:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17849 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!news.cs.indiana.edu!babbage.ece.uc.edu!ucunix.san.uc.edu!peterson From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson) Subject: Re: Peanut Plant Message-ID: Organization: University of Cincinnati Date: Sun, 30 May 1993 10:20:10 GMT Lines: 21 > >My son brought home a peanut plant from school about a month ago. >We planted in our backyard and seems to be doing well. > >My question: Do any of you know when we can harvest the peanuts? > A tuff question! but 120+ days. The problem is that peanuts set pigs (the nuts) over a two (or more) month period, depending on type. If you wait to long, the early sets will sprout -- if your to early the late sets aren't mature. That said, when your ready, dig the plant and let the nuts dry in the sun for a day or two -- enjoy your goobers. +------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | peterson@headcheese.daa.uc.edu In real life: John M. Peterson | | | | College of Design Architecture Art & Planning | | University of Cincinnati 45221-0016 513-556-1207 | +------------------------------------------------------------------------+ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!eclnews!wucs1!johnson Sun May 30 12:43:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17850 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!eclnews!wucs1!johnson From: johnson@wucs1.wustl.edu (Sahnny Johnson) Subject: Re: Killing Weeds:Roundup Message-ID: <1993May30.153321.7486@wuecl.wustl.edu> Sender: usenet@wuecl.wustl.edu (News Administrator) Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO References: <24726@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Sun, 30 May 1993 15:33:21 GMT Lines: 7 A side issue: will Roundup kill only those plants whose leaves it touches? What if it hits a tree root or tree trunk, but no tree leaves? I have trees all over the yard that I wouldn't want to kill for the sake of a few (well, more than a few) weeds. Sahnny From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!eclnews!wucs1!johnson Sun May 30 23:30:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17851 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!eclnews!wucs1!johnson From: johnson@wucs1.wustl.edu (Sahnny Johnson) Subject: Re: starting perennial flowers from seed Message-ID: <1993May30.160245.7916@wuecl.wustl.edu> Sender: usenet@wuecl.wustl.edu (News Administrator) Organization: Washington University, St. Louis MO References: <1u5n4aINN3db@gap.caltech.edu> Date: Sun, 30 May 1993 16:02:45 GMT Lines: 20 I plant _lots_ of perennial seeds, with mixed success. I have access to a greenhouse, which of course makes a huge difference if the weather cooperates. Still, there are a significant number of failures, especially in shade-loving plants, which seem generally more difficult to grow (for me anyway). Hardest part is matching soil to moisture to available light (perhaps more of a gamble in a greenhouse than with constant light from an artificial source). One possible problem for the original poster in this thread is what consti- tutes 'large enough to transplant'. I sometimes transplant tiny little things, once they have acquired a set of true leaves. I'm talking a quarter of an inch high in some cases, especially if the seedlings are crowded. Having a private home and new soil sometimes sets off a burst of growth. Sometimes not. And regular feeding (every week or two) with half- strength liquid fertilizer. Best 'secret' I have found is always to plant a few things I have had success with in the past along with the new ventures. No danger of a shutout. Also, echoing a previous response, the perennials I set out last year, some of which limped along and most of which were in nothing better than the OK category, are spectacular this year, so don't be put off by a slow start. First year: get them big enough to get into the ground and keep them alive. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail Sun May 30 23:30:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17852 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail From: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: red earthworms Date: 30 May 1993 10:05:56 -0400 Organization: The Dorsai Embassy Lines: 15 Message-ID: <1uaf04$1g8@dorsai.DORSAI.ORG> References: <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cray.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: dorsai.dorsai.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] David Adams (dadams@cray.com) wrote: : Gardens Alive offers 500 red earthworms for $19.95. I think this is a : pretty steep price. It seems that I have seen a better price somewhere. : Does anyone know? I wonder if you could try checking out some local fishbait shops and see how much they want redworms for? You'll at least be able to compare the prices. -- "Jesus saves by, ||David Gurzynski clipping coupons and ||Dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org shopping wisely!!!"||Prodigy: KGHM08A From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail Sun May 30 23:30:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17853 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail From: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Community Gardens Date: 30 May 1993 10:15:31 -0400 Organization: The Dorsai Embassy Lines: 19 Message-ID: <1uafi3$1hb@dorsai.DORSAI.ORG> NNTP-Posting-Host: dorsai.dorsai.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] My wife and I have a plot (20' x 10') in a community garden here in Brooklyn NY (the old Floyd Bennet Field) and are enjoying it immensely! The ground is rather sandy but our Onions (grown from sets) have come up wonderfully, our radishes, just planted about a month ago from seeds, should be ready to harvest in a week or two, the pole beans are going tolerably and the corn is starting nicely. The only thing we're having trouble with is our carrots. We have tried growing them from seed and they just don't seem to want to come up?! We are fairly new at this, with my last garden experience being trying to get out of what my mother wanted me to do in the garden and last year when we managed to grow a nice amount of tomatoes and eggplants on the terrace of our apartement. -- "Jesus saves by, ||David Gurzynski clipping coupons and ||Dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org shopping wisely!!!"||Prodigy: KGHM08A From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail Sun May 30 23:30:14 EDT 1993 Article: 17854 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail From: davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Community Gardens Message-ID: <1ubhe6$13v@ursula.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 30 May 93 09:53:42 GMT Article-I.D.: ursula.1ubhe6$13v References: <1uafi3$1hb@dorsai.DORSAI.ORG> Lines: 16 NNTP-Posting-Host: ursula.ee.pdx.edu dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) writes: >The only thing we're having trouble with is our carrots. We have tried >growing them from seed and they just don't seem to want to come up?! I've also had trouble getting carrots to start. My solution has been to plant very shallow, and place a board or piece of plastic on top of the soil for a week (or until they sprout). This keeps the moisture in the soil, and prevents a tough crust to form on the top due to watering our clay-soil. Since you mentioned sandy soil, I don't know if this would help or not. Another way I've had success is to plant carrots and radishes together in the same row. The radishes sprout quickly and break the soil. By the time you harvest the radishes, the carrots are in need of room. -David RObinson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!boulder!tigger!gurka Sun May 30 23:30:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17855 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!boulder!tigger!gurka From: gurka@tigger.cs.Colorado.EDU (Judy Gurka) Subject: Re: labels for rose gardens?? Message-ID: <1993May30.235532.16599@colorado.edu> Sender: news@colorado.edu (The Daily Planet) Nntp-Posting-Host: tigger.cs.colorado.edu Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder References: <143740002@capella.cup.hp.com> Date: Sun, 30 May 1993 23:55:32 GMT Lines: 29 fzbaker@dale.ucdavis.edu (Sharon D. Baker) writes: >I have gone to my local nursery and purchased white plastic plant >markers--they look somewhat like popsicle sticks or tongue depressers, with >one end pointed, and the other straight across. They come in "cards" of 6, >perforated between each "stick". You see them in pots at the nursery >listing what the plant is, or sometimes listing the price. There seem to >be two different sizes-- I get the larger size (they are longer). Each card >costs around 48 cents. > To get "real" wooden popsicle sticks (sans popsicle), try a hobby or craft store; I got 1000 (yes, one thousand) for 99 cents on sale (regular price $2.99, I think). I don't know what hobby they are normally used for ... building miniature forts? My current labeling problem: going to a nursery, buying lots of 6- and 12-packs of anuals (including ones I haven't seen before, of course), and finding one or two unlabeled when I get home. This happens because first I read a label and choose it, then I pick the "best" pack (this process gets quicker as the hour gets later!), and forget to check whether it has its own label. Oh, well, it adds interest when blooming starts ... Judy Gurka gurka@cs.colorado.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!boulder!tigger!gurka Sun May 30 23:30:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17856 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!boulder!tigger!gurka From: gurka@tigger.cs.Colorado.EDU (Judy Gurka) Subject: types of catnip Message-ID: <1993May31.000659.16954@colorado.edu> Sender: news@colorado.edu (The Daily Planet) Nntp-Posting-Host: tigger.cs.colorado.edu Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 00:06:59 GMT Lines: 27 (waiting to hear what the Japanese catnip is ...) So, what, if any, is the difference between catNIP and catMINT? I'm sure I've seen "catmint" on a seed package of plain ole' catnip, but last year a local garden store had "catmint" plants, that had blue flowers; otherwise, the plant looked very similar (I think I remember that the foliage was slightly more or less grey-ish). I couldn't bring myself to pay $7.95 for one plant in a gallon container ... gardening: the only business in which putting the same product in a larger container doubles or triples the price. Anyone done a feline comparison? I got some "thyme cat" (not cat thyme, don't ask me why) this year; they like it enough for me to put the plant in a hanger (i.e., out of reach). Anything else for kitties? I think I've read that valerian also attracts them; true? By the way, to the person planning a catnip patch for their cats, don't expect the plants to last past one meal unless you screen them off pretty well - then it's fun watching them swipe their paws through the mesh. Ashley and Tai thank you! Judy Gurka gurka@cs.colorado.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!nstn.ns.ca!ac.dal.ca!mctate Sun May 30 23:30:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17857 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!nstn.ns.ca!ac.dal.ca!mctate From: mctate@ac.dal.ca Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: HELP WANTED - low light houseplants + cacti info Message-ID: <1993May30.172615.14073@ac.dal.ca> Date: 30 May 93 17:26:15 -0300 Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada Lines: 20 Hi folks, I may be in the wrong group with these questions. If possible, please point me in the right direction (rather than flaming). I am looking for the following: 1. Some kind of compilation of house plants that grow in medium to low light levels. Does this exist anywhere ? 2. Any mailing lists, newsgroups, sites, or other sources of info on the net, specifically concerned with cacti. All help appreciated. Thanks in advance, Marcus C. Tate -- mctate@ac.dal.ca -- Dept. Earth Sci. Dalhousie University Halifax, NS, Canada. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!utnut!utgpu!richter Sun May 30 23:30:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17858 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!utnut!utgpu!richter From: richter@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (C. Richter) Subject: Re: types of catnip Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <1993May31.000659.16954@colorado.edu> Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 01:32:04 GMT Lines: 31 In article <1993May31.000659.16954@colorado.edu> gurka@tigger.cs.Colorado.EDU (Judy Gurka) writes: >(waiting to hear what the Japanese catnip is ...) > >So, what, if any, is the difference between catNIP and catMINT? I'm >sure I've seen "catmint" on a seed package of plain ole' catnip, but >last year a local garden store had "catmint" plants, that had blue flowers; >otherwise, the plant looked very similar (I think I remember that the >foliage was slightly more or less grey-ish). I couldn't bring myself Nepeta cataria is usually referred to as catnip, the one most people (and cats) know. But to confuse the issue, some books also refer to it as catmint. Nepeta mussinii and N. x faassenii are smaller, greyer, somewhat sweeter smelling plants which are often called catmint (mint probably because they are lower and they spread). They also have blue flowers. (We call the latter "Faassen's Catnip" just to confuse the situation further). According to articles posted here earlier, the catmints seem to attract certain cats, though not all. Many, but not all, are attracted to the true catnip, and even to the lemon version (N. cataria ssp. citriodora). The cat thyme (Teucrium marum) is a different animal altogether. Some cats, apparently, thinV{ the world for this one, though I have never seen any{ go after it. Conrad Richter Richters Herbs Goodwood, ON L0C 1A0 Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!heilmayr Sun May 30 23:30:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17859 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!heilmayr From: heilmayr@durban.berkeley.edu (Klaus) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Roses for the north Date: 31 May 1993 02:41:09 GMT Organization: U.C. Berkeley Logic Group Lines: 18 Message-ID: <1ubr85$7c0@agate.berkeley.edu> References: <1993May14.222819.5601@nicmad.uucp> NNTP-Posting-Host: durban.berkeley.edu In article <1993May14.222819.5601@nicmad.uucp> Bob Klebba writes: |>I would now like to start collecting more cold hardy roses and am |>wondering what the favorites for zones 4 and below might be. Has anyone |>out there had much luck with roses in the Great White North? Are there |>especially fragrant and cold-hardy roses? Forevergreen Farm in Maine specializes in rugosas and other hardy roses. They're run by Suzy Verrier, who also wrote a really nice (and nicely illustrated) book about rugosas. Their address: Forevergreen Farm 70 New Gloucester Road North Yarmouth, Maine 04097 phone: (207) 829-5830 fax: (207) 829-6512 Godd luck. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!udel!wupost!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!dhruva!molly Sun May 30 23:30:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17860 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!udel!wupost!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!dhruva!molly From: molly@dhruva (Molly Deich) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Community Gardens Date: 31 May 1993 02:31:46 GMT Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena Lines: 16 Message-ID: <1ubqmiINNfs1@gap.caltech.edu> References: <1ubhe6$13v@ursula.ee.pdx.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: dhruva.caltech.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] CATfish (davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu) wrote: : dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) writes: : >The only thing we're having trouble with is our carrots. We have tried : >growing them from seed and they just don't seem to want to come up?! : Have you tried seed tape? That is always a reliable way to get carrots started, as long as the soil stays moist until germination. Carrots generally take about two weeks to germinate, so constant vigilance is a must. You can get seed tape through the Burpee catalog as well as at some nurseries. Another benefit of seed tape: my 5-year-old son can plant it himself and has great success with basic, small-seeded vegetables and flowers. Molly Deich From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!heilmayr Sun May 30 23:30:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17861 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!heilmayr From: heilmayr@durban.berkeley.edu (Klaus) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: The amazing color-changing rose Date: 31 May 1993 02:56:49 GMT Organization: U.C. Berkeley Logic Group Lines: 18 Message-ID: <1ubs5h$7fl@agate.berkeley.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: durban.berkeley.edu In article laura j zurawski writes: |> |>When we first moved into our little house in the northwest Chicago |>suburbs, there was this rather established rosebush in the backyard |>that produced large, yellow flowers. |>Then, all of a sudden, one season we noticed it was starting to |>smaller red flowers... now, we checked, and re-checked, and we are |>pretty darn certain that it's the same exact plant and not another |>one that was just not blooming before, so the question is, is it |>possible for the flowers on a rosebush to just change color like that? |>Or are we just going insane? There is an old rose called mutabilis, whose flowers start out yellow and then slowly change to pink and fially to red. It has single-petaled flowers, so it doesn't look like your typical modern hybrid tea rose. If it looks like a standard rose, it probably isn't a mutabilis. But you might want to look up mutabilis in a comprehensive rose book somewhere to see if that's what you have. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Sun May 30 23:30:22 EDT 1993 Article: 17862 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Catnip & Catmint Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 03:05:40 GMT Message-ID: <24891@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 34 In response to Judy Gurka:gurka@tigger.cs.Colorado.EDU who writes: >So, what, if any, is the difference between catNIP and catMINT? I'm >sure I've seen "catmint" on a seed package of plain ole' catnip, but >last year a local garden store had "catmint" plants, that had blue flowers; >otherwise, the plant looked very similar (I think I remember that the >foliage was slightly more or less grey-ish). The basic answer is that Catmint and Catnip are the same genus but different species, as follows: Garden Catmint is Nepeta faassenii, Perennial Catmint is Nepeta mussinii and Catnip, also known as Wild Catmint, is Nepeta cataria. There is also a Lemon Catnip, Nepeta cataria citriodora. >Anyone done a feline comparison? I got some "thyme cat" (not cat thyme, >don't ask me why) this year; they like it enough for me to put the >plant in a hanger (i.e., out of reach). Anything else for kitties? >I think I've read that valerian also attracts them; true? Your Cat Thyme is probably Teucrium marum, and yes, Valerian (Valeriana officinalis) is supposed to be attractive to cats. A common name for it is "Cat's Valerian". It is also supposed to be very attractive to rats...the Pied Piper's secret. According to anything I have read on the subject cats go after catnip but aren't nearly so interested in catmints. I can't tell you a thing from personal experience because I seem to have defective cats (gad!). This spring I planted a patch of catmint and have also been growing several catnip plants from seed and even started a valerian. Both of my cats are completely ignoring the whole lot. Bring out a bowl of icecream however and they will fight you for the spoon. Perhaps when my plants get bigger they will receive more attention... -Moira Carlson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!silver.ucs.indiana.edu!cmick Mon May 31 05:08:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17863 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!silver.ucs.indiana.edu!cmick From: cmick@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Baldy) Subject: Clorox + [a little water] => kill weeds? Message-ID: Sender: news@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: silver.ucs.indiana.edu Organization: Indiana University Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 07:38:51 GMT Lines: 6 Would that mixture kill grass and weeds? Seems cheap. -- EEEEEEh! EEEEEEEEj! EEEEEEj EEEEEEEj! EEEEEEEEE! Goood bye, Craig cmick@silver.ucs.indiana.edu cmick@acoma.ucs.indiana.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!heilmayr Mon May 31 05:08:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17864 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!heilmayr From: heilmayr@jaffna.berkeley.edu (Klaus) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rust on Roses (chemical angst) Date: 31 May 1993 08:32:06 GMT Organization: U.C. Berkeley Logic Group Lines: 35 Message-ID: <1ucfq6$bev@agate.berkeley.edu> References: <143740001@capella.cup.hp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: jaffna.berkeley.edu In article <143740001@capella.cup.hp.com> savage@capella.cup.hp.com (Deborah Savage) writes: |> |>Does anyone have any "organic" methods to treat rust on roses? |> Safer makes a "Garden Fungicide" that's supposed to be effective on rust, black spot, powdery mildew, etc. I haven't tried it yet, but I may have to soon. It's some sort of sulphur-based spray and, like all Safer products, it's supposed to be less toxic than the usual bunch of chemicals. The latest issue of the Heritage Rose Group's Rose Letter also describes a fungicidal spray that (in research at Cornell) has been shown to be effective on black spot, powdery mildew, and other fungi. It hasn't been tested on rust yet, but it may be worth a try. The formula is: - 1 Tablespoon baking soda - 2 1/2 Tablespoons horticultural oil - mixed with one gallon of water Spray weekly. (note: higher concentrations can damage foliage, so use the indicated proportions) Apparently, you need to use an oil with a high UR (unsulfonated residue) rating -- 92-99%. The brands that were specifically recommended were Sunspray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil and Superior Horticultural Spray Oil. Both are available from Gardens Alive (which was mentioned by a previous poster). To find a local source of Sunspray, you can call the manufacturer, Microgen Corp., at (800) 745-7476. Note that the Safer fungicide says on the label that it should not be used for 4 weeks after the use of an oil spray. Two more solutions that were suggested for black spot (but not for powdery mildew, so they're probably less likely to work for other fungi like rust): Spray with an anti-transpirant (Foliocote and Wilt-Pruf brands seem to work). Spray with a solution of baking soda and a spreader-sticker ("Tween 20" brand). Well, that's all the information I can find right now. I hope something here works for you. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 31 23:53:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17865 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 30 May 93 15:07 PDT Subject: Re: Sorrel Question Message-ID: <1453300222@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:DAOFFER.93May27125535@doc.cc.ute:1500245076:cdp:1453300222:000:288 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 30 15:07:00 1993 Lines: 6 Yes, it is safe to eat sorrel. It does contain some oxalic acid crystals, but not enough to do you harm unless you overeat. Kids do seem to love it raw. I wouldn't worry. The kids in our community garden snack on it most of the time, but not in great quantities. They're all fine. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 31 23:53:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17866 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 30 May 93 15:01 PDT Subject: Re: red earthworms Message-ID: <1453300220@igc.apc.org> References: <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cr> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cr:-1120235653:cdp:1453300220:000:647 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 30 15:01:00 1993 Lines: 16 You don't need elephant do to attract earth worms to your garden. Almost any addition of organic matter will do the trick. My best worm spot is under the birdfeeders where sunflower seed and bird droppings have been accumulating for- ever. Our extension composting agen comes by annually to dig worms for her keds' worm boxes. My yard is in the city as is my community garden plot. We've never bought worms. They appear as soon as there is a modicum of organic matter in the soil. If worse comes to worse, just bury your plant garbage around the garden. It will decompose, add organic matter and nutrients to the soil AND attract worms. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 31 23:53:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17867 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 30 May 93 15:03 PDT Subject: Re: Roses open too quickly Message-ID: <1453300221@igc.apc.org> References: <1993May27.155225.1@stsci.edu> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1993May27.155225.1@stsci.edu:-1623164252:cdp:1453300221:000:162 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 30 15:03:00 1993 Lines: 6 I don't think anyone has bred roses to open slowly, but try burning the cut ends with a match or putting them in really hot water as soon as you cut the stems. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 31 23:53:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17868 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 30 May 93 14:51 PDT Subject: Re: starting perennial flowers from see Message-ID: <1453300219@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:CMM.0.90.4.738597229.saari@magnu:635966796:cdp:1453300219:000:285 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 30 14:51:00 1993 Lines: 7 My experience with perennials is that most of them stay tiny for quite a long time. Try pricking them out into individual 2" containers when they have 2-4 true leaves. It's a serious pain, but doable. They seem to put on better growth in individual containers than in the flat. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 31 23:53:32 EDT 1993 Article: 17869 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 30 May 93 14:22 PDT Subject: Re: Viburnum with aphids!! Message-ID: <1453300212@igc.apc.org> References: <1993May28.112315.1@stsci.edu> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1993May28.112315.1@stsci.edu:-1462455332:cdp:1453300212:000:234 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 30 14:22:00 1993 Lines: 7 In the morning, get out your hose and hit the aphids with a strong spray of water. It will knock them off and, even better, it will kill a lot of them. If you do this for a couple of days, you should have solved your problem. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 31 23:53:33 EDT 1993 Article: 17870 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 30 May 93 14:25 PDT Subject: Re: help: bean plants descimated Message-ID: <1453300213@igc.apc.org> References: <1993May28.150130.4971@dazixco.in> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1993May28.150130.4971@dazixco.in:-1257068942:cdp:1453300213:000:309 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 30 14:25:00 1993 Lines: 8 Your problem may be bean beetles...look for round guys with stripes. Then again bean cotyledons (seed leaves) often seem to develope holes which don't seem to any effect on the health of the plant when the true leaves begin to form. Don't worry. Be happy. See what happens in the next couple of days. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 31 23:53:34 EDT 1993 Article: 17871 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 30 May 93 14:30 PDT Subject: Re: flowering broccoli...and more Message-ID: <1453300214@igc.apc.org> References: <1993May28.155327.13174@math.ucla> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1993May28.155327.13174@math.ucla:-1420648463:cdp:1453300214:000:365 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 30 14:30:00 1993 Lines: 8 Broccoli is a heavy feeder and just loves N. Cut off the flowering heads, eat the flowers as everyone has suggested, and feed the plants 1 tbs fish emulsion per gallon of water every week. You will get side shoots that are good to eat. If you keep the plant well fed and watered thru the hottest months, you'll get more side shoots when the weather cools. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 31 23:53:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17872 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 30 May 93 14:37 PDT Subject: Re: Pickles Message-ID: <1453300216@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:C7r3vC.6At@boi.hp.com:1216342296:cdp:1453300216:000:404 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 30 14:37:00 1993 Lines: 11 The usual instruction is to use a "non-reactive" container like glass, porcelain or stainless steel. If you're going to pickle without cooking, use a ceramic container or heavy duty plastic. USDA has a whole set of publications on food preservation including a section on pickling. Check out your local federal bookstore or your county coop extension office. You may even find it in the library. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 31 23:53:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17873 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 30 May 93 14:39 PDT Subject: Re: Lemon Thyme & T.serphyllum Message-ID: <1453300217@igc.apc.org> References: <24799@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:mindlink.bc.ca:24799:cdp:1453300217:000:207 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 30 14:39:00 1993 Lines: 5 I don't know why, but every time I've grown lemon thyme it has turned all green in hot weather/long days and its yellow markings have returned in cool weather/ shorter days. It just seems to grow that way. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 31 23:53:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17874 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 30 May 93 14:33 PDT Subject: Re: HERBS - CARAWAY SEEDS Message-ID: <1453300215@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:cathy.72.738609848@admin.acadiau:912776366:cdp:1453300215:000:214 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 30 14:33:00 1993 Lines: 7 If you want the seeds for seasoning, let the seed heads dry before you take them. You can take the whole stalk and hang it upside down in a paper bag to make sure you get the seeds when they've fully dried. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Mon May 31 23:53:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17875 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 30 May 93 14:47 PDT Subject: Re: Community Gardens Message-ID: <1453300218@igc.apc.org> References: <1uafi3$1hb@dorsai.dorsai.org> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:1uafi3$1hb@dorsai.dorsai.org:407694142:cdp:1453300218:000:754 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 30 14:47:00 1993 Lines: 16 Hey Hey Hey. I'm a community gardener in Philadelphia. Glad to meet others here. Getting any seeds up in a garden that's not near home can be a problem. You have to keep the soil moist at all times to get germination. If you can't get out every day to water, cover the seeds with boards or with several layers of news- print to maintain the moisture in the row or bed. You can try a light covering of other mulch, but if you've had as little rain up there as we've had down here (.86in. all month), a heavier cover will work better. Just make sure to get it off as soon as the seeds come up. Also...carrots are slower to germinate that seeds like radish and the other cole crops. Libby ps if you ever get down to Phila, drop an e-mail and come visit. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!mdisea!mothost!lmpsbbs!leeba Mon May 31 23:53:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17876 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!mdisea!mothost!lmpsbbs!leeba From: leeba@mot.com (Leeba Salzman) Subject: Product to keep dogs off grass Reply-To: leeba@mcil.comm.mot.com Organization: Motorola Communications Israel Ltd., Tel Aviv Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 11:14:41 GMT Message-ID: <1993May31.111441.27190@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> Followup-To: leeba@mcil.comm.mot.com Keywords: dog litter, grass Sender: news@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: 145.9.18.31 Lines: 10 Hi! I am looking for a product which can be applied to my lawn to discourage a few neighborhood dogs who have been using it as their own personal litter box. (Yes I have tried to speak to the owners, but ...) I need something safe as the kids play there all the time. Thanx, Leeba Salzman Please reply to leeba@mcil.comm.mot.com as I do not read this newsgroup regularly. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!gumby!yale!zip.eecs.umich.edu!nova!lsloan Mon May 31 23:53:40 EDT 1993 Article: 17877 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!gumby!yale!zip.eecs.umich.edu!nova!lsloan From: lsloan@nova.gmi.edu (Lance Sloan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Clorox + [a little water] => kill weeds? Date: 31 May 93 13:38:46 GMT Organization: GMI Engineering&Management Institute, Flint, MI Lines: 19 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: nova.gmi.edu cmick@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Baldy) writes: > Would that mixture kill grass and weeds? Seems cheap. Sure sounds like it would kill. Maybe a little too well. I would be worried about spreading too much bleach around like that. For a cheap and environmentally-friendly weed/grass killer, I use highly concentrated salt water. Due to the law of osmosis (?) water will move through a semi-permeable membrane from an area of greater concentration to an area of lesser concentration. Because there is salt in the water around the plant, water within the plant will "leak out" to try to dilute it. Effectively, the plants should shrivel up. It has worked for me. Salt is cheaper than bleach, too. -- Lance Sloan lsloan@nova.gmi.edu UNIX System Administrator GMI Engineering and Management Institute Assistant Programmer Flint, Michigan, USA From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!udel!wupost!gumby!yale!zip.eecs.umich.edu!nova!lsloan Mon May 31 23:53:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17878 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!udel!wupost!gumby!yale!zip.eecs.umich.edu!nova!lsloan From: lsloan@nova.gmi.edu (Lance Sloan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.veg Subject: Yucca in Michigan? Date: 31 May 93 13:47:19 GMT Organization: GMI Engineering&Management Institute, Flint, MI Lines: 39 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: nova.gmi.edu Summary: Is this a yucca or what? Keywords: yucca Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:17878 rec.food.cooking:49212 rec.food.veg:24525 This memorial day, I found an interesting plant at the front of the cemetary. My dad told me that it was a yucca. But I always thought that yucca was a cactus-type plant (succulent?) and liked hot, dry areas. Michigan is like that sometimes, but not in recent years. The plant has long thin leaves which are a bit pointy/sharp at the tips. The more mature leaves have hair-like curly fibers that stick out from the edges. It seems to have a single, very long root that goes deep into the ground. Deep compared to the low, round shape of the plant. All leaves grow out from the center. Also, a tall stalk grows out of the center of the plant and has flowers and fruit. I've only seen the dead stalks, so I don't know what the flowers or fruit look like. My dad told me that other people in mid-Michigan have had these plants and the fruit looks like stubby cucumbers. In fact, they pickle them like cucumbers and he's even seen them served in restauruants. If the fruit is not touched, the whole stalk will turn brown, the fruit will dry and split open in three parts. There are black seeds inside the dried fruit. What I need to know is, what is this thing? Is it really a yucca? Any speculations on a scientific name? Also, how would I care for this plant? I plan on keeping it in a pot on my balcont and probably bring it in during the winter. (Even though they seem to survive the winters here.) What size pot should I put it in? How much sun/water does it like? The ones I have were growing in the open, but under the shade of trees. What is known about eating the fruit? How should it be prepared/pickled? Any suggestions are appreciated. Please send me email, which I read more often than news. I will post a summary later. -- Lance Sloan lsloan@nova.gmi.edu UNIX System Administrator GMI Engineering and Management Institute Assistant Programmer Flint, Michigan, USA From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!enterpoop.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Mon May 31 23:53:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17879 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!enterpoop.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want a quick, living fence Message-ID: Date: 31 May 93 14:11:03 GMT References: <1993May26.165528.14224@mintaka.lcs.mit.edu> <1993May28.103422.15054@pony.Ingres.COM> Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University Lines: 60 (I hope I got the attributions right) >| >mwolf@pattie.wellesley.edu writes: >| >| I need to install a visual barrier, approximately 24' wide and 6' >| >| I live in southern Worcester County, Massachusetts, which is in inland >| >| southern New England. How about Amelanchier? They grow quickly, as do Sibirian peas. Amelanchier has white flowers, and the Sibirian pea has yellow ones, although not very conspicious. Both of them are hardy here. My climate, or at least the winters, is _comparable_ to that of Massachusetts. >| Tom Drynda(hey, that's me !) suggests: >| > How about some Rosemary. I planted some a few months ago >Dick and Jill Miller write: >| But, Tom, you are in California. >| Tom Drynda(hey, that's me !) responds: > Uh, London England actually. Don't be fooled by the >company name or the email address ! My home is actually in >Hertfordshire about 30 miles north of London. >Dick and Jill Miller write: >| I couldn't find a Zone rating for rosemary, but 'America's Garden Book' >| rates it as a TENDER perenial (according both the newer version and the >| 1940's version). None of my other books had information about USDA zones >| for rosemary either. Here in inland southern New England, (Zone 5) 'tender >| perennial' usually means it dies back in the winter but the roots may pull >| through (if you are lucky) :'). tad@Ingres.COM (Tom Drynda) writes: > Hmmm. Interesting. I was told that it was a hardy plant. >It certainly dosn't seem to have any delicate structures about it >that would cause it to have problems in frosts - indeed, it has >survived ... THRIVED ! ... through many hard frosts we had >earlier this year with absolutely no sign of damage. My father >has some that is a few years old and is in very good condition >despite being buried under snow a few times. It's probably hardy in southern England, with those whimpy winters, but it has considerable problems surviving the winter here in Linkoeping, Sweden. I over-winter mine in the cold-frame. As usual, having excellent drainage ups my chances of success, but I also find myself watering all the time in summer. Snow helps over-wintering actually, it's the dry frosts that kill the plants, and repeated thaw-freeze cycles make the roots rot. > I imagine there are a number of different varieties >though. I haven't seen any, but even if there are, will they grow to 6' as the original poster wanted? In Massachusetts? And quickly? --Ceci -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== "I have the concentration span of a fruit fly. So, I watch game shows. I write for 10-15 minutes, then I go watch a game show for 30 minutes, then I write again." Ian McDonald, author of_Hearts,_Hands_and_Voices_ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!wpi.WPI.EDU!eeyore Mon May 31 23:53:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17880 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!wpi.WPI.EDU!eeyore From: eeyore@wpi.WPI.EDU (The Dreaded E) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: those plant pole thingys FOUND Date: 31 May 1993 14:26:42 GMT Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute Lines: 3 Message-ID: <1ud4j2$3d4@bigboote.WPI.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu For those who want to know, I found those plant pole thingys in the Miles Kimball catalog. Email me for more info. eeyore@wpi.wpi.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!enterpoop.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!lunic!my!omega!lysator.liu.se!ceci Mon May 31 23:53:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17881 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!enterpoop.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!lunic!my!omega!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: types of catnip Message-ID: Date: 31 May 93 14:31:49 GMT References: <1993May31.000659.16954@colorado.edu> Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University Lines: 17 richter@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (C. Richter) writes: ... >The cat thyme (Teucrium marum) is a different animal altogether. Some >cats, apparently, think the world for this one, though I have never >seen any go after it. What does it look like? Teucrium is in the Labiate family, so I suppose that it looks a lot like mint. Unfortunately Chiltern doesn't have it. Would you know a source for _seeds_ of it? (It's legal and easy to import seeds of ornamental plants to Sweden.) I'm interested in seeds for Nepeta cataria var citriodorus, too. --Ceci, who already grows Nepeta fassini with great success -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== "I hate definitions." Benjamin Disraeli in _Vivian_Grey_ =================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet Mon May 31 23:53:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17882 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet From: farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wildflower FAQ Date: 31 May 93 16:23:00 GMT Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville Lines: 37 Message-ID: References: <1993May13.162932.13144@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993May27.124329.91907@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: utkcs2.cs.utk.edu In article <1993May27.124329.91907@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au> samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au writes: >In article <1993May13.162932.13144@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >> In article , farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: >>> About this time last year, I volunteered to do a Wildflower FAQ. (no, Kay, I >>> didn't forget. I started a project on Trillium, entered graduate school, >>> applied to the UTK Botany department, and took the GRE -- it's been a busy >>> year). >> > Is this going to be a wildflower faq like the world series is "world" series? >You mean North American wildflowers I think. Americans are not the only >people who use the net. (Thats why its called internet) and they're not >the only people with wildflowers. Enough yanky chauvanism please ! > > >samantha lane >samantha@vaxc.cc.monash.edu.au Honey, (I'm from the south. We "honey" everybody ... presumably even HRM) if you'll send it to me, I'll be just exstatic to include it in the FAQ and (LOUD VOICE HERE) that just doesn't go just for Australia. Anybody in Japan want to play? (Pretty please?) How about Europe? Africa? (Hey, I'm an equal opportunity person, I'll even take Mars.) the REST OF THE WORLD? I will be the first to admit, it was going to be probably biased only just a little bit :-) for the SE US, because that's where I live, and thats the plants I have first hand knowledge of, so if you live Out West or Up North (Yes, I'll even take Yankee submissions :-) VERY BIG SMILEY), please help flesh out the FAQ. Susan -- Susan B. Farmer farmer@cs.utk.edu Lady Jerusha Kilgore I can't even find time to clean house and you want me to come up with a .sig? And now she wants to go back to grad school after 14 years ..... We'll let her out when the delusion passes. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet Mon May 31 23:53:46 EDT 1993 Article: 17883 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet From: farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,sci.bio Subject: Vascular Plant Systematics book wanted Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 31 May 93 16:47:12 GMT Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville Lines: 13 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: utkcs2.cs.utk.edu Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:17883 sci.bio:9128 Is it still possible to get a copy if Radford's _Vascular Plant Systematics_? It's not listed in books in print. Can anybody tell me how to get one? Does anybody have a spare they want to get rid of? Thanks Susan -- Susan B. Farmer farmer@cs.utk.edu Lady Jerusha Kilgore I can't even find time to clean house and you want me to come up with a .sig? And now she wants to go back to grad school after 14 years ..... We'll let her out when the delusion passes. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!uc.msc.edu!apctrc!hawkings!orlcal07!zkym02 Mon May 31 23:53:47 EDT 1993 Article: 17884 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!uc.msc.edu!apctrc!hawkings!orlcal07!zkym02 From: zkym02@orl.amoco.com (Keerthi Y. McIntosh) Subject: Request: Landscaping books and info. Message-ID: <1993May31.160555.4463@amoco.com> Sender: news@amoco.com Reply-To: zkym02@orl.amoco.com Organization: Amoco Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 16:05:55 GMT Lines: 19 Gardeners, We are in the process of purchasing a home. Luckily (I think) we have are very large yard. It desparately needs a good sprucing up. (Pun intended) But I have NO experience with landscaping and a little experience with gardening. (My square foot garden produced lettuce and there are green tomatoes on the tomato plants.:)) I know what I like and what I don't like. I have NO BUDGET and hope to start my annuals from seed. I don't expect to get much done this year but would like to start planning and preparing for next year. We live in New Orleans. SO can you recommend a good beginners guide to landscaping? Email or the net is fine... Thanks in advance, Keerthi From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!zip.eecs.umich.edu!nova!lsloan Mon May 31 23:53:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17885 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!yale!zip.eecs.umich.edu!nova!lsloan From: lsloan@nova.gmi.edu (Lance Sloan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Yucca in Michigan? Date: 31 May 93 13:47:19 GMT Organization: GMI Engineering&Management Institute, Flint, MI Lines: 38 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: nova.gmi.edu Summary: Is this a yucca or what? Keywords: yucca This memorial day, I found an interesting plant at the front of the cemetary. My dad told me that it was a yucca. But I always thought that yucca was a cactus-type plant (succulent?) and liked hot, dry areas. Michigan is like that sometimes, but not in recent years. The plant has long thin leaves which are a bit pointy/sharp at the tips. The more mature leaves have hair-like curly fibers that stick out from the edges. It seems to have a single, very long root that goes deep into the ground. Deep compared to the low, round shape of the plant. All leaves grow out from the center. Also, a tall stalk grows out of the center of the plant and has flowers and fruit. I've only seen the dead stalks, so I don't know what the flowers or fruit look like. My dad told me that other people in mid-Michigan have had these plants and the fruit looks like stubby cucumbers. In fact, they pickle them like cucumbers and he's even seen them served in restauruants. If the fruit is not touched, the whole stalk will turn brown, the fruit will dry and split open in three parts. There are black seeds inside the dried fruit. What I need to know is, what is this thing? Is it really a yucca? Any speculations on a scientific name? Also, how would I care for this plant? I plan on keeping it in a pot on my balcont and probably bring it in during the winter. (Even though they seem to survive the winters here.) What size pot should I put it in? How much sun/water does it like? The ones I have were growing in the open, but under the shade of trees. What is known about eating the fruit? How should it be prepared/pickled? Any suggestions are appreciated. Please send me email, which I read more often than news. I will post a summary later. -- Lance Sloan lsloan@nova.gmi.edu UNIX System Administrator GMI Engineering and Management Institute Assistant Programmer Flint, Michigan, USA From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Mon May 31 23:53:49 EDT 1993 Article: 17886 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: That color-changing rose Date: 31 May 1993 17:53:27 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 24 Message-ID: <1udgmn$o44@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu I am unable to retrieve the original article about the color-changing rose, but from the fragments of it that appear in another post, I'll make the following guess---the red flowers are flowers from the rootstock, perhaps "Dr. Huey" It doesn't sound like R. chinensis mutablilis to me if the flowers start out red. A neighbor of mine reported the same thing had happened to one of his roses. Upon inspection it turned out the bud graft had died over the winter, and that what was coming up was a shoot from the rootstock. On the other hand, I have had rose bushes "sport" and produce different colored flowers on the same plant. It happened with a Pink Grootendorst and another rugosa of mine. In the first case the plant sent out a branch with red versions of the typical Grootendorst "carnation-petaled" blooms. In the second, the plant produces both carmine and pure white blooms from the same self-rooted bush-weird but very nice to see. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * "The night, it teems with moon and promise." A-B College * --Krazy Kat-- Philippi, WV * * From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!van-bc!vanbc.wimsey.com!cs.ubc.ca!newsserver.sfu.ca!ratusins Mon May 31 23:53:50 EDT 1993 Article: 17887 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!van-bc!vanbc.wimsey.com!cs.ubc.ca!newsserver.sfu.ca!ratusins From: ratusins@fraser.sfu.ca (Dorota Ratusinska) Subject: Re: SLUGS Message-ID: <1993May31.184636.11228@sfu.ca> Sender: ratusins@sfu.ca Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada References: <1993May31.175922.18700@ntg.com> Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 18:46:36 GMT Lines: 16 I posted this note a few days ago but haven't heard from anyone. It must be an old thread here, but first time happens to me, so please help. The problem is slugs. Slugs that come at night and perforate leaves terribly. I check twice a night but they still do a lot of damage. My garden is disappearing. It is an organic garden and I have grown everything from seed from my lasy year's garden. There were no slugs last year no other pests. I was very lucky. please post/email me any remedies that you know - I will truly appreciate it. Thank you. ratusins@sfu.ca From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!apple.com!ntg!dplatt Mon May 31 23:53:51 EDT 1993 Article: 17888 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!apple.com!ntg!dplatt From: dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt) Subject: Re: Clorox + [a little water] => kill weeds? Message-ID: <1993May31.175922.18700@ntg.com> Organization: New Technologies Group, Inc. Palo Alto CA References: Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 17:59:22 GMT Lines: 15 >For a cheap and environmentally-friendly weed/grass killer, I use highly >concentrated salt water. Salt is certainly a cheap weed-killer. I would hesitate to call it "environmentally friendly" in this context, though. It either builds up in the soil (and thus renders it sterile indefinitely), or it leaches out into the local water table or into streams and rivers. Salt buildup is a serious problem in many agricultural areas (many millions of acres have been rendered infertile due to salt buildup), and salt contamination of surface waters is a problem as well. Salt poisoning of trees is a problem along many roadways in the snow belt. -- Dave Platt VOICE: (415) 813-8917 Domain: dplatt@ntg.com UUCP: ...netcomsv!ntg!dplatt USNAIL: New Technologies Group Inc. 2470 Embarcardero Way, Palo Alto CA 94303 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newsserver.cs.uwindsor.ca!pappy Mon May 31 23:53:52 EDT 1993 Article: 17889 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newsserver.cs.uwindsor.ca!pappy From: pappy@server.uwindsor.ca (PAPINEAU DAN ) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: BERMUDA Keywords: weeds Message-ID: <3818@newsserver.cs.uwindsor.ca> Date: 31 May 1993 22:21:23 GMT Sender: news@server.uwindsor.ca Distribution: na Lines: 39 Hi. Someone posted to the group and mentioned BERMUDA could someone explain this weed to me It sounds alot like what i've been trying to get rid of in my lawn for the last 5 years. What does it look like??? I've tried everything to get rrid of it including getting on my hands and knees and digging it up in every spot I could find, and I thought I got the whole weed(rhyzome and all) sp. AND IT KEEPS COMING BACK EVERY YEAR. I'm at my wits end.... please help Pappy@alpha.uwindsor.ca From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!mojo.eng.umd.edu!mojo!snort Mon May 31 23:53:58 EDT 1993 Article: 17890 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!darwin.sura.net!mojo.eng.umd.edu!mojo!snort From: snort@eng.umd.edu (Dreaming) Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens Subject: HELP! Yellowjacket nest! Date: 31 May 93 14:52:13 Organization: Acme Crack Internet Research Team Lines: 16 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: state.eng.umd.edu Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu misc.consumers.house:34106 rec.gardens:17890 A nest of yellowjackets has sprung up outside our front door. They're camped in a dense, large (over five-foot) hedge, so I haven't been able to make out the hive. If anyone has dealt with this type of problem before, we'd really appreciate any advice. I'd prefer a solution that isn't very toxic, but most anything is preferrable to the chance of getting stung all summer. (Two of us have morbid fears of bees and other flying insects, including myself.) Thank you, in advance... Laurie, Derek, Jessica, Mike -- snort@eng.umd.edu Dreaming there's a little bit of me in each electron on your phosphor From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae Mon May 31 23:53:59 EDT 1993 Article: 17891 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: flowering broccoli...and more Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <1993May28.155327.13174@math.ucla.edu> Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 20:01:58 GMT Lines: 23 In article <1993May28.155327.13174@math.ucla.edu> ramirez@julia.math.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: > >Still on the subject, sort of: while turnip roots and greens are, in >my opinion, fit only to be fed to livestock, turnip buds are absolutely >delicious, and the little yellow flowers that come after aren't bad >in salads, either. Turnip buds resemble little tiny broccolis, but much >more tender and succulent. They are SLIGHTLY sharper in flavor. >I grow turnips now for buds (I grew them a couple years ago after >a long hiatus, feeling that 10 years of added maturity might have changed >my attitude toward turnips. It hadn't. And because I was too busy to >compost them, the plants went to bud. I tasted one and found it good.) There is an Italian vegetable, usually called rapini or quarantina, which is a turnip grown for its flowering shoots. They don't make a turnip root at all, and mature quickly ("quarantina" refers to 40 days). Stokes sells the seeds, and I expect a lot of other seed companies do as well, although they will probably be listed with the broccoli rather than the turnips. Here in Toronto, where a lot of Italian immigrants live, rapini is found at most greengrocers, many supermarkets, and on a lot of seed packet racks. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newsserver.cs.uwindsor.ca!pappy Mon May 31 23:54:00 EDT 1993 Article: 17892 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newsserver.cs.uwindsor.ca!pappy From: pappy@server.uwindsor.ca (PAPINEAU DAN ) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: weeping birch not blooming Keywords: weeping Message-ID: <3814@newsserver.cs.uwindsor.ca> Date: 31 May 1993 19:50:33 GMT Sender: news@server.uwindsor.ca Lines: 23 I have a weeping birch that is approximitly 20 feet tall and 12 years old. the problem is that is has not blloomed this year. I have seen other weeping birches in my area blooming but alas not mine. WHAT IS MY PROBLEM????? does it need fertilizer (i've never done it in the 7 years ive been here) could the pestisides I use on my lawn ( I have it professionaly done) be affecting the blooming of the tree please help the tree as buds but ithey have not opened. thanks.. email me at pappy@alpha.uwindsor.ca From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!tamsun.tamu.edu!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam Mon May 31 23:54:01 EDT 1993 Article: 17893 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!tamsun.tamu.edu!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam From: stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: red earthworms Date: 31 May 1993 20:21:46 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 8 Message-ID: References: <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cray.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: carbonara.mit.edu In-reply-to: den0@lehigh.edu's message of 28 May 93 18:51:51 GMT > addresses, or if you know someone who is a member of the American > Rabbit Breeders Association, ask them for a copy of Domestic Rabbits, there > are always several ads in the back. Wait. What do earthworms have to do with rabbits? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!bigboy.sbc.com!news.mtholyoke.edu!eddie.mit.edu!eddie.mit.edu!not-for-mail Mon May 31 23:54:02 EDT 1993 Article: 17894 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!bigboy.sbc.com!news.mtholyoke.edu!eddie.mit.edu!eddie.mit.edu!not-for-mail From: steve@eddie.mit.edu (Steve Gisselbrecht) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Indoor basil question. Date: 31 May 1993 16:53:09 -0400 Organization: MIT EE/CS Dept., Cambridge, Ma, USA Lines: 15 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <1udr7l$rrq@eddie.mit.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: eddie.mit.edu Summary: Are day/night cycles required? Keywords: Grow-light. Well, I've just about said it all in the header, but here's the long version: my roommate and I are growing basil under a grow-light in our apartment. My question is, does basil require a day/night cycle? We're currently leaving the lamp on about 18 hours a day, but if it doesn't need any time off at all, we might as well leave it on all the time, converting electricity to pesto. Please reply by e-mail, since I don't usually read this group (since I don't have a garden), and I'll post a summary. Thanks for your time! steve gisselbrecht steve@eddie.mit.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!csus.edu!netcom.com!rah Mon May 31 23:54:03 EDT 1993 Article: 17895 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!csus.edu!netcom.com!rah From: rah@netcom.com (Richard Hyde) Subject: Re: HELP! Yellowjacket nest! Message-ID: Followup-To: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] References: Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 20:50:04 GMT Lines: 28 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu misc.consumers.house:34109 rec.gardens:17895 Dreaming (snort@eng.umd.edu) wrote: : A nest of yellowjackets has sprung up outside our front door. They're : camped in a dense, large (over five-foot) hedge, so I haven't been : able to make out the hive. I've kept honeybees in the past, and don't mind a mud-dauber nest or two around the house. Yellow Jackets/Paper Wasps are another matter. Many recent pesticides degrade rapidly after use and I wouldn't hesitate to use them on YJs. YJs are the only bee I know of that will sting without apparent provocation. Yes, yes, I know that we *must* be provoking them somehow, but just walking by within 10 ft. of a nest is mild enough for me to consider it no provocation. If you don't want to hire a professional, you could try cautiously peeking into the shrub with a red filtered flashlight, locating the nest, and soaking the opening with the aforementioned pesticide. That should take care of the problem. -r ` -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ | Richard Hyde | RaH@netcom.com | This space intentionally left blank | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!yar.trincoll.edu!nmiller Mon May 31 23:54:04 EDT 1993 Article: 17896 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!yar.trincoll.edu!nmiller From: nmiller@starbase.trincoll.edu (norman miller) Subject: The best shrubs for birds Message-ID: <1993May31.210802.21436@starbase.trincoll.edu> Sender: usenet@starbase.trincoll.edu (SACM Usenet News) Organization: Trinity College, Hartford, CT. Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 21:08:02 GMT Lines: 13 I'm moving into an absolutely empty back yard in Brookline, a perfect opportunity to do things right. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions, including the title(s) of books dealing with the matter. I saw one years ago but memory is weak. If possible, please write to: nmiller@dot.trincoll.edu Thanks in advance. Norman Miller From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!auvm!wrathal Mon May 31 23:54:05 EDT 1993 Article: 17897 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!auvm!wrathal Organization: The American University - University Computing Center Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 17:35:17 EDT From: Message-ID: <93151.173518WRATHAL@auvm.american.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: SLUGS References: <1993May31.175922.18700@ntg.com> <1993May31.184636.11228@sfu.ca> Lines: 13 In article <1993May31.184636.11228@sfu.ca>, ratusins@fraser.sfu.ca (Dorota Ratusinska) says: > >The problem is slugs. Slugs that come at night and perforate leaves >terribly. One of the old, useful and wasteful of good stuff methods for getting rid of slugs is to place a dish of STALE BEER, preferably the cheapest kind, in the garden at night. They will either drown or pickle themselves in this, which can then be thrown away. New beer is required every night - the things we do for a good garden! Dick Wrathall American University Washington DC From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!richter Mon May 31 23:54:06 EDT 1993 Article: 17898 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!richter From: richter@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (C. Richter) Subject: Re: types of catnip Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <1993May31.000659.16954@colorado.edu> Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 23:21:11 GMT Lines: 18 In article ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) writes: > >What does it look like? Teucrium is in the Labiate family, so I >suppose that it looks a lot like mint. Unfortunately Chiltern doesn't >have it. Would you know a source for _seeds_ of it? (It's legal and >easy to import seeds of ornamental plants to Sweden.) I'm interested >in seeds for Nepeta cataria var citriodorus, too. > I don't know anybody with seeds of Teucrium marum (cat thyme), but we have plants, and we ship anywhere in the world, including Sweden. Seeds of lemon catnip are available from us. Conrad Richter Richters Goodwood, ON L0C 1A0 Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!jmclean Mon May 31 23:54:07 EDT 1993 Article: 17899 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!jmclean From: jmclean@carson.u.washington.edu (Dian Campbell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Japanese catnip Date: 1 Jun 1993 00:19:32 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 6 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1ue7akINNnfu@news.u.washington.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu All these comments on cat thyme and catnip are very interesting, but d I should clarify. The stuff I have, called matatabi in Japanese, has a similar effect on my cats as catnip does. It's sold as thick, woody stems. What is its botanical name? Does it belong to Nepeta? It may n even work on defective cats (lending some urgency to the search for its name.) Thanks! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!galaxy!ucrmath!mcc Mon May 31 23:54:08 EDT 1993 Article: 17900 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!galaxy!ucrmath!mcc From: mcc@ucrmath.ucr.edu (mei-chu chang) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: when to harvest carrot? Message-ID: <31979@galaxy.ucr.edu> Date: 1 Jun 93 00:40:24 GMT Sender: news@galaxy.ucr.edu Organization: University of California, Riverside Lines: 6 Nntp-Posting-Host: ucrmath would appreciate any hint by telling from the plants also how to harvest ( do i dig out the whole plant? or can i harvest while the plant is still producing) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Mon May 31 23:54:09 EDT 1993 Article: 17901 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Advice?: Avacado Trees Message-ID: <1993May29.215334.1387@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 30 May 93 05:53:34 GMT References: Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: - Lines: 40 In article , jkwallac@uci.edu (Janis Wallace) writes: > Hi, everyone. I need some advice. We just purchased a beautiful older > home (built in 1925) in North Santa Ana. It is on a half acre which is > loaded with fruit trees of all kinds which are blooming like crazy. All > except the avacado trees. > > [part deleted] > > Last November, it was covered with fruit, as were all of the citrus trees. > The citrus have already gone through their blossom stage and fruit is > beginning to appear, but nothing on the avacados. New leaves are > appearing, but no blossoms. > > My questions are: > > 1. Could the overgrown state hinder fruit production? I don't think this is the problem. > 2. Do they only produce in the winter months? Do you know what variety they are? Many of the orchards are producing now. But I think different varieties produce at different times of the year. The orchards were covered with blooms in March. > 3. Would giving it a radical prunning damage or kill it? I'd be surprised if this would hurt it at all. I've seen orchards taken all the way back to stumps, but they still come back. > 4. Would it be better to gradually prune it back to a normal state? I don't think lack of pruning is the problem. Most avocados sit out a year after heavy production. > > I really would appreciate any thoughts/advice any of you have on this. > Jim From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Mon May 31 23:54:10 EDT 1993 Article: 17902 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Saving bulbs from bugs Message-ID: <1993May29.221556.1388@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 30 May 93 06:15:56 GMT References: <1993May24.192633.25531@SanDiego.NCR.COM> <1993May25.133606.1381@cvsd.cv.com> Organization: - Lines: 34 In article , karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) writes: > I just want to second the notion of growing the South African bulbs, > and other Mediterranean climate bulbs, in our Mediterranean climate > on the California coast. They're a tad bit harder to find, perhaps, > though many good nurseries have them. With babianas, you get > lots of shades of purple, blue, with white or magentas mixed in. > Sparaxis: lots of colors, but often selected for the red-yellow- > maroon combo. Ixias, most often in pinks: tall wand-like stems. > Watsonias mostly in pinks or white, but I did just find an orange > one with a magenta throat. Tritonias: I have one batch in hot > orange, another in peach. And there's nothing to arouse comment > like a clump of Dieramas, their 5-foot "Fairy Wands" dancing > in the breeze, with dangling strings of pinks bells. Do you have a source for Dieramas? I'm sure I must have seen them somewhere but I don't recognize the picture in Sunset. > > Why fight it? Many of the plants I know from my Midwestern youth are a > struggle to grow here, they were bred and selected to flourish in the > European climate. Grow something marvellous, different and easy. Another good choice, but difficult to find is Brodiaea. Most have flowers similar to alliums. Many are west coast natives. The collection at the Berkeley Botanical garden was unbelievably large. I'd only seen one or two types of brodiaea and here were at least 100 different varieties. I now also know that wildflowers that grow on the hills near where I live are brodiaea's (though I didn't see this particular variety at Berkeley). I've been trying to find out what they are for at least 3 years. Berkeley also had some 2 ft tall, cream colored, unscented freesias. I'd never seen these before, but would love to try them. Jim (Who finally made it to the Berkeley Botanical garden thanks to a schedule mix up giving me a free morning on a recent business trip.) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Mon May 31 23:54:11 EDT 1993 Article: 17903 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: plant ID/phosphate Message-ID: <1993May29.223523.1391@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 30 May 93 06:35:23 GMT References: <1993May26.215421.10321@wuecl.wustl.edu> Organization: - Lines: 15 In article <1993May26.215421.10321@wuecl.wustl.edu>, johnson@wucs1.wustl.edu (Sahnny Johnson) writes: > Pulling myself back together after reading the exchange about poop-eating > dogs, I have two questions to submit to the collected wisdom: > > 1. I seem to have planted a perennial/wild flower that has leaves that look > like a geranium (the wild kind, not the annual things) but mottled, and the > flower is a cluster of small, fuzzy white blooms -- a cluster being about > the size of a golf ball. Is it a geranium? It sounds like a geranium. If the flowers have 5 petals and the seed pod is pointed, you for sure have a geranium. Jim P.S. where I live, those "annual things" are perennials. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail Wed Jun 2 10:21:12 EDT 1993 Article: 17904 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail From: davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: red earthworms Message-ID: <1uekgq$cbj@ursula.ee.pdx.edu> Date: 31 May 93 14:04:42 GMT Article-I.D.: ursula.1uekgq$cbj References: <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cray.com> Lines: 15 NNTP-Posting-Host: ursula.ee.pdx.edu stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) writes: >> addresses, or if you know someone who is a member of the American >> Rabbit Breeders Association, ask them for a copy of Domestic Rabbits, there >> are always several ads in the back. > Wait. What do earthworms have to do with rabbits? I've heard of rabbit breeders growing worms under the rabbit hutches to take care of the manure + the added benifit of an additional "cash crop." -David Robinson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!caen!malgudi.oar.net!cedarnet!law26a.cedarville.edu!s1087400 Wed Jun 2 10:21:13 EDT 1993 Article: 17905 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers,misc.consumers.house Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!caen!malgudi.oar.net!cedarnet!law26a.cedarville.edu!s1087400 From: s1087400@cedarville.edu (Peter_Fiveland) Subject: Re: Recommendations for Electric Lawnmowers Message-ID: Lines: 37 Sender: news@cedarville.edu Organization: Cedarville College, Cedarville, OH References: <1993May24.005818.18031@mdd.comm.mot.com> Distribution: na Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 04:04:18 GMT Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:17905 misc.consumers:44773 misc.consumers.house:34121 In article <1993May24.005818.18031@mdd.comm.mot.com> rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com (Doug Rudoff) writes: >From: rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com (Doug Rudoff) >Subject: Recommendations for Electric Lawnmowers >Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 00:58:18 GMT > >Can anyone give me any recommedations (or non-recommendations) for >electric lawn mowers? > >These are the models I've seen > >Sears has a Craftsman 19 inch mulcher/standard including rear bag for >$200. It does seem heavier than the others. > >Sears also has two Black and Deckers models one mulching, one >non-mulching for about $200 and $160, respectively, side bag extra $$. >They are very light and seem like a newer design. > >A local home warehouse store has a Wheeler for $160 and $30 for a side >bag. > >The Craftsman would be the choice except for its weight (it needs to >go up stairs). > >Does anyone have any experience with these mowers or any other >electric ones? > >Thanks My family and our next door neighbor both got bright orange B&D electric lawn mowers somwhere around 1971 and one still runs well and the other was lost due to circumstances beyond our control that had nothing to do with the mower. They were very havily built, for our purposes anyway, and gave us years of good service. You could also easily lift them, too. I happen to like the design of the new B&D mowers, but have never used one or examined them closely, so I have no idea if they have kept up their standards -Peter Fiveland E-mail: S1087400@cedarville.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mdisea!mothost!schbbs!waccvm.corp.mot.com!AVRK90 Wed Jun 2 10:21:15 EDT 1993 Article: 17906 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mdisea!mothost!schbbs!waccvm.corp.mot.com!AVRK90 From: AVRK90@waccvm.corp.mot.com (Kevin Cox) Subject: better tasting vegies? Organization: Motorola Date: 31 May 1993 20:11:06 MST Message-ID: <1993Jun1.031704.27980@schbbs.mot.com> Sender: news@schbbs.mot.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: waccvm.corp.mot.com Lines: 8 Anyone have any idea what type(s) of minerals/nutrients I should add to my garden to produce sweeter/better tasting vegetables? Suggestions anyone? GO SUNS! GO SUNS! GO SUNS! GO SUNS! GO SUNS! GO SUNS! GO SUNS! GO SUNS! =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= | Kevin Cox -=AVRK90@WACCVM.CORP.MOT.COM=- Motorola, Scottsdale Arizona | =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!think.com!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Wed Jun 2 10:21:16 EDT 1993 Article: 17907 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!think.com!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 31 May 93 13:00 PDT Subject: Re: Yucca in Michigan? Message-ID: <1453300224@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #R:lsloan.738868822@nova:-738566492:cdp:1453300224:000:671 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 31 13:00:00 1993 Lines: 15 Re growing Yucca in MI in containers. Yes, several varieties of yucca will grow in the north. I'm not sure how they would do in a container where their roots are not well protected in winter. However, try using a large wooden one like a half barrel. Wood is a better insulator than terra cotta or plastic. You shouldn't have to bring it in for the winter. You might want to wrap the barrel in some sort of insulation bat, tho. I've not heard of eating the fruit, which doesn't mean your father isn't right about it. In Puerto Rico, they eat another plant named 'yuca', but it's not the same one. Re pickling the fruit: almost any pickling recipe should do the job.. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!think.com!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Wed Jun 2 10:21:17 EDT 1993 Article: 17908 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!think.com!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 31 May 93 12:45 PDT Subject: Rhubarb Chutney Message-ID: <1453300223@igc.apc.org> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Nf-ID: #N:cdp:1453300223:000:1504 Nf-From: cdp.UUCP!libby May 31 12:45:00 1993 Lines: 55 Rhubarb Chutney 2-3 pounds rhubarb 1 Tbs chopped fresh ginger 4-5 cloves garlic, peeled 1 large red onion, chopped 1 Tsp crushed red pepper or 1 fresh chile seeded and minced (You choose how hot. I've used Habanero, Yatsafusca and Pili Pili. It depends on what you're growing) 1 Tsp cumin seeds toasted and ground 1 orange zest only, but you can add the juice if you want 2 Tbs garam masala (If you can't find this in an Asian or specialty markets, use French quatre epices instead.) 1 Cup white rice wine vinegar 1 1/2 Cup light brown sugar Wash and trim the rhubarb. Cut into 1" pieces. In a mortar or heavy bowl crush the ginger with the garlic to make a paste. Combine the ingredients in a heavy non-reactive Dutch oven or large pan; bring to a boil over high heat; reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Simmer, stirring most of the time with a wooden spoon until the mixture is shiny and mounds up in the spoon. It should make a hissing sound when you scrape your spoon along the bottom of the pot and leave a bare trail. Spoon into sterilized 1/2-pint jars;run a knife around the jar to remove any air pockets; adjust 2-part lids that have been prepared according to manufacturer's directions; process 5 minutes in a boiling water bath. Rhubarb Chutney s s From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!Clone!UUCP Wed Jun 2 10:21:18 EDT 1993 Article: 17909 of rec.gardens From: allan.balliett@his.com (Allan Balliett) Sender: UUCP@Clone.his.com Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!Clone!UUCP Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Sphagnum Moss vs. Peat Moss Message-ID: <738945373.AA05148@Clone.his.com> Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 07:04:40 Lines: 20 I read somewhere that if you use low quality peat moss, you just as well not use peat moss at all. This raised the question: "Is it possible to tell from the outside the bag what 'grade' of peat is in the bag?" And is Michigan Peat 'better' than Canadian peat? ANd while I'm at it, my garden shop had a small bag (about a double handful) of SPANISH MOSS for $2(!!!!!) What I'm looking for right now is 'plunge' material for window boxes. I assumed I'd use sphagnum or Spanish Moss. I appreciate getting the 'peat' portion clarified! -Allan From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Wed Jun 2 10:21:19 EDT 1993 Article: 17910 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Yucca in Michigan? Date: 1 Jun 1993 12:09:29 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 34 Message-ID: <1ufgtp$chi@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <1453300224@igc.apc.org> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, libby@igc.apc.org (Libby Goldstein) says: > >Re growing Yucca in MI in containers. Yes, several varieties of yucca will grow >in the north. I'm not sure how they would do in a container where their roots >are not well protected in winter. However, try using a large wooden one like a >half barrel. Wood is a better insulator than terra cotta or plastic. You >shouldn't have to bring it in for the winter. You might want to wrap the barrel >in some sort of insulation bat, tho. > >I've not heard of eating the fruit, which doesn't mean your father isn't right >about it. In Puerto Rico, they eat another plant named 'yuca', but it's not the >same one. > >Re pickling the fruit: almost any pickling recipe should do the job.. > > > Yucca, known around here as Spanish Bayonet, grows well in West Virginia. It is a very common planting in cemeteries, and if you come across it in fields, etc. you can be fairly sure there used to be a house there at some time. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * "The night, it teems with moon and promise." A-B College * --Krazy Kat-- Philippi, WV * * From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail Wed Jun 2 10:21:20 EDT 1993 Article: 17911 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail From: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Community Gardens Date: 1 Jun 1993 08:16:36 -0400 Organization: The Dorsai Embassy Lines: 35 Message-ID: <1ufhb4$12k@dorsai.DORSAI.ORG> References: <1453300218@igc.apc.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: dorsai.dorsai.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] Libby Goldstein (libby@igc.apc.org) wrote: : Hey Hey Hey. I'm a community gardener in Philadelphia. Glad to meet others here. : Getting any seeds up in a garden that's not near home can be a problem. You have : to keep the soil moist at all times to get germination. If you can't get out : every day to water, cover the seeds with boards or with several layers of news- : print to maintain the moisture in the row or bed. You can try a light covering : of other mulch, but if you've had as little rain up there as we've had down here : (.86in. all month), a heavier cover will work better. Just make sure to get it : off as soon as the seeds come up. Also...carrots are slower to germinate that : seeds like radish and the other cole crops. Thanks for the info! We have been planning to put down a layer of mulch to help with the weeds as well as the drying problem. The only problem is that we don't have a car. I know that sounds strange but if the most you drive one is to find another parking space it doesn't seem quite the necessity as it is in other places. We have been trying to find a stable near our garden where we could go by bus but the thought of taking a bale of hay or straw on the bus is a bit daunting. What we might end up doing is just starting the seeds at home and transplant the seedlings and hope that they mature in time. I have heard that the Community Garden prg here has been around for about 7 years with varrying success. Some people are very nice and only spray for bugs carefully and don't use black plastic (as the rules say we shouldn't) but others seems to think they're doing you a favor by being careless about spraying! Its great fun! I noticed you mentioned covering the plants with "newsprint"? Is that right? And I just went and put 6 bales of the Times in the recycling bin! Oh well...I'll give that a try. -- "Jesus saves by, ||David Gurzynski clipping coupons and ||Dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org shopping wisely!!!"||Prodigy: KGHM08A From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!transfer.stratus.com!questor.sw.stratus.com!kvk Wed Jun 2 10:21:21 EDT 1993 Article: 17912 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!transfer.stratus.com!questor.sw.stratus.com!kvk From: kvk@questor.sw.stratus.com (Ken Koellner) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Green Bugs on Roses Bushes Date: 1 Jun 1993 13:08:06 GMT Organization: Stratus Computer, Software Engineering Lines: 21 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1ufkbm$li9@transfer.stratus.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: questor.sw.stratus.com I have some rose bushes that are new this season. They are about a foot or so high. On the ends of a few of the new canes, I've noticed some green bugs. I see them in three phases. First, there are many of them that just exist as pencil-point sized, green blobs on the stem. I assume these are a larva of some sort feeding on 'rose juice'. Then I see little green bugs walking around. These are about twice the sized of a common flea and are actually kind of flea shaped. They are light leaf-green. I've also seen adults like t his that have wings. So... What are they? How harmful are they? How do I get rid of them? -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Don't drink American corporate swill. Support your local micro-brewery. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!utcsri!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Wed Jun 2 10:21:23 EDT 1993 Article: 17913 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers,misc.consumers.house Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!utcsri!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: Recommendations for Electric Lawnmowers Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: <1993May24.005818.18031@mdd.comm.mot.com> Distribution: na Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 13:33:56 GMT Lines: 8 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:17913 misc.consumers:44780 misc.consumers.house:34129 Have you considered a cordless, battery-operated mower? There are at least 2 on the market that I have seen. I can't remember the names, but saw them advertised in magazines (one was "Organic Gardening"). They had a surprisingly long lasting charge according to the article. I suppose it depends on how complex/large the area to be mowed is. I found a cord-dependent mower to be a real pain at my family's tree-riddled previous home. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm Wed Jun 2 10:21:25 EDT 1993 Article: 17914 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm From: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (Tom Dugan) Subject: Re: Green Bugs on Roses Bushes Message-ID: Sender: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (SSGM) Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC References: <1ufkbm$li9@transfer.stratus.com> Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 14:04:21 GMT Lines: 39 In article <1ufkbm$li9@transfer.stratus.com>, kvk@questor.sw.stratus.com (Ken Koellner) writes: |> I have some rose bushes that are new this season. They are about a |> foot or so high. On the ends of a few of the new canes, I've noticed |> some green bugs. I see them in three phases. First, there are many |> of them that just exist as pencil-point sized, green blobs on the |> stem. I assume these are a larva of some sort feeding on 'rose |> juice'. Then I see little green bugs walking around. These are about |> twice the sized of a common flea and are actually kind of flea shaped. |> They are light leaf-green. I've also seen adults like t his that have |> wings. So... |> |> What are they? |> |> How harmful are they? |> |> How do I get rid of them? |> |> |> -- |> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |> Don't drink American corporate swill. Support your local micro-brewery. |> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, sounds like aphids to me, that most ubiquitous of bugs. Harmful? Yes. Especially in large numbers. Easiest way to get them off without resorting to chemicals (please don't) is to knock them off the plant with a blast from the garden hose. Speaking of ubiquitous bugs, where are the Japanese beetles? Unless my memory fails me (1) it's about time for them. I haven't seen a-one. (1) I have a mind like a steel trap. Sprung. Tom Dugan ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!synapse.bms.com!riversend.bms.com!user Wed Jun 2 10:21:26 EDT 1993 Article: 17915 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!synapse.bms.com!riversend.bms.com!user From: Roberts_D@BMS.COM (Dan Roberts) Subject: Red and Yellow Peppers Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: news@synapse.bms.com Organization: Bristol-Myers-Squibb Research Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 14:45:58 GMT Lines: 10 Is it true that the way you get red and yellow bell peppers from green bell peppers is to let the green pepper grow on the plant until a worm gets inside the green pepper and cause the pepper to change colors??..Also...should I stake up my pepper plants???>>>Thanks...Dan Dan Roberts BRISTOL-MYERS-SQUIBB PHARM. RES. CENTER Cardio-Vascular Biochem Dept. PRINCETON, NEW JERSEY U.S.A. PLANET EARTH, MILKY-WAY GALAXY <<<>>>Roberts_D@BMS.COM From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!spool.mu.edu!nigel.msen.com!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg Wed Jun 2 10:21:27 EDT 1993 Article: 17916 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!spool.mu.edu!nigel.msen.com!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!samg From: samg@col.hp.com (Sam Gaylord) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Red and Yellow Peppers Date: 1 Jun 1993 15:32:54 GMT Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division Lines: 9 Message-ID: <1ufsr6INNrl1@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: sushi12.cs.itc.hp.com The color of the pepper at maturity depends on the variety. All peppers (as far as I know) are green when they are immature, and change later in life. samg +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ | Sam Gaylord Colorado Springs ITC e-mail Support Team | | e-mail: samg@cs.itc.hp.com HPDesk: Sam Gaylord/HP0800 | | Telnet: 1-590-2907 / AT&T: (719) 590-2907 / Fax: (719) 590-3596 | +-----------------------------------------------------------------+ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam Wed Jun 2 10:21:28 EDT 1993 Article: 17917 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!enterpoop.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam From: stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Community Gardens Date: 1 Jun 1993 14:36:13 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 27 Message-ID: References: <1453300218@igc.apc.org> <1ufhb4$12k@dorsai.DORSAI.ORG> NNTP-Posting-Host: m66-452-1.mit.edu In-reply-to: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org's message of 1 Jun 1993 08:16:36 -0400 > bugs carefully and don't use black plastic (as the rules say we > shouldn't) but others seems to think they're doing you a favor by What was the objection to black plastic mulch? Is it just aesthetic? Or does it have some undesirable side-effects? We're using IRT 76 mulch for the first time this year, and it certainly warms the soil up. Weed control hasn't been as good as I thought it would be. There seems to be a fair amount of weeds growing under the plastic. I don't know whether that's normal, or whether it's because I did not smooth the beds out sufficiently before putting the plastic on, so that there were air spaces for the weeds to grow, underneath the plastic. Perhaps the weeds will die from overheating once the summer warms up. We are using a community garden as well, although we do have a car. Where could we find straw if we decide that it is worth the effort to haul it over in our hatchback? Shih Tung Chem E Best l'il Tech School in (still) cold Cambridge From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!csd.unb.ca!adminteam.cs.upei.ca!leath Wed Jun 2 10:21:29 EDT 1993 Article: 17918 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!csd.unb.ca!adminteam.cs.upei.ca!leath From: leath@UPEI.CA (Steve Leath) Subject: Planting and starting a Pear espalier ? Message-ID: Sender: news@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca Organization: University of Prince Edward Island, CANADA Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 12:17:42 GMT Lines: 12 I have just read 2 articles in a gardening magazine. THe first talks about the new philosphy on planting trees, in which it states that one should not prune back the tree once planted as heavy as was thought before since it is now thought that this practice hampers root development. Yet, in an article describing espalier - after planting cut back to 18 inches high - which would leave a large toothpick (the diagrams confirm the toothpick look). I have 2 dwarf pears that I want to plant and espalier does anyone on the net have any suggestions and/or experience ? Thanks in advance. Steve Leath leath@upei.ca From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!wupost!tulane!wpg!russ Wed Jun 2 10:21:30 EDT 1993 Article: 17919 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!wupost!tulane!wpg!russ From: russ@wpg.com (Russell Lawrence) Subject: Re: Community Gardens Message-ID: Organization: WP Group References: <1ubhe6$13v@ursula.ee.pdx.edu> Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 07:50:20 GMT Lines: 21 >From article <1ubhe6$13v@ursula.ee.pdx.edu>, by davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish): > dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) writes: > >>The only thing we're having trouble with is our carrots. We have tried >>growing them from seed and they just don't seem to want to come up?! > > I've also had trouble getting carrots to start. My solution has > been to plant very shallow, and place a board or piece of plastic > on top of the soil for a week (or until they sprout). This keeps > the moisture in the soil, and prevents a tough crust to form on > the top due to watering our clay-soil. Better still, change the soil. I use a mixture of peat moss, vermiculite, and regular soil for carrots. It holds moisture well, but still drains. While changing the soil may seem inconvenient, it's a one time job. And a small bed, say 2 feet x 4 feet, produces a *lot* of carrots; no need to transform the entire garden. :-) -- Russell Lawrence, WP Group, New Orleans (504) 443-5000 russ@wpg.com uunet!wpg!russ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!caen!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!lehigh.edu!den0 Wed Jun 2 10:21:31 EDT 1993 Article: 17920 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!caen!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!lehigh.edu!den0 From: den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: red earthworms Message-ID: Date: 1 Jun 93 15:45:12 GMT References: <1993May27.123245.5019@hemlock.cray.com> <1uekgq$cbj@ursula.ee.pdx.edu> Sender: usenet@Lehigh.EDU Organization: Lehigh University Computing Center Lines: 25 Nntp-Posting-Host: 128.180.3.20 In article <1uekgq$cbj@ursula.ee.pdx.edu> davidr@ursula.ee.pdx.edu (CATfish) writes: >stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) writes: >>> addresses, or if you know someone who is a member of the American >>> Rabbit Breeders Association, ask them for a copy of Domestic Rabbits, there >>> are always several ads in the back. >> Wait. What do earthworms have to do with rabbits? >I've heard of rabbit breeders growing worms under the rabbit >hutches to take care of the manure + the added benifit of an >additional "cash crop." I've raised red worms for about 5 years now. Until last year, I raised them under our rabbits, but the optimal environments for the two didn't match and I moved the worms to beds of their own. Last weekend, I finally bought 175 fish, and I'm feeding them worms. If I save money eating the fish, I'll use it to buy rabbit feed and we'll close the loop. Dean Nelson > >-David Robinson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!syma!andy Wed Jun 2 10:21:35 EDT 1993 Article: 17921 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!syma!andy From: andy@syma.sussex.ac.uk (Andy Clews) Subject: Re: SLUGS Message-ID: <1993Jun1.122713.7045@syma.sussex.ac.uk> Organization: University of Sussex X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] References: <93151.173518WRATHAL@auvm.american.edu> Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 12:27:13 GMT Lines: 37 WRATHAL@auvm.american.edu wrote: : >The problem is slugs. Slugs that come at night and perforate leaves : >terribly. : One of the old, useful and wasteful of good stuff methods for getting : rid of slugs is to place a dish of STALE BEER, preferably the cheapest : kind, in the garden at night. They will either drown or pickle themselves : in this, which can then be thrown away. : New beer is required every night - the things we do for a good garden! Several dishes may be required, depending on the level of infestation or the size of your garden. And, it normally need only be a 50-50 dilution of beer in water. The dish(es) would need to be pushed into the soil so that their rims are almost level with the surface, in order to be most effective. A quick swish with a broom will clear the dish every morning, so no need to touch anything with your fingers... In the UK there is a powder marketed as FERTOSAN which I believe is basically Ammonium Sulphamate. This can either be sprinkled in affected areas or disolved and watered in. Sprinkling it kills the slugs by contact, watering in kills off eggs and very young slugs. It apparently works by messing up their slime forming glands, so they aren't actually poisoned but are disabled and thus starve to death. This stuff is OK for use in organic gardens, as far as I understand (indeed, it is recommended by Lawrence D Hills, one of the founders of the modern UK organic movement, in his books). But, I'd go for the beer-trap for starters, in order to avoid chemicals of any kind. Definitely avoid those nasty metaldehyde pellets, anyway. -- Andy Clews, Computing Service, Univ. of Sussex, Brighton BN1 9QJ, England JANET: andy@uk.ac.sussex.syma OTHER NETWORKS: andy@syma.sussex.ac.uk From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!news.crd.ge.com!caliban!lorraine Wed Jun 2 10:21:36 EDT 1993 Article: 17922 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!news.crd.ge.com!caliban!lorraine From: lorraine@caliban.crd.ge.com (Peter Lorraine) Subject: Carpenter Ants in Oak Tree Message-ID: Summary: Help save an oak tree! Sender: usenet@crdnns.crd.ge.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: caliban.crd.ge.com Organization: GE Corp. Research & Development, Schenectady, NY Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 17:33:27 GMT Lines: 28 My wife and I purchased a house in January and are having a great time identifying the existing garden plants. The lot backs onto a bird sanctuary (read forest) and has had extensive landscaping in the past which needs a little help. We have a lovely oak tree in the front lawn which is probably 40' tall. Unfortunately, carpenter ants have entered the tree through a 6" wide gap at the soil line. The wood in this hollow is very soft and feels "rotten" to me. I am not sure how far in the damage extends. I would dearly love to save this attractive tree but I don't want it to come crashing down on the house either. We will be having a tree service out to look this over late next week. What is the usual course of treatment for this type of infestation? Can our tree be saved? On strolls through our neighboring forest we have seen trees with canoe sized hollows that are still standing. Any help or opinions here would be appreciated. I'll post the recommendations of the tree service next week. thanks very much, Peter Lorraine lorraine@crd.ge.com lorraine@caliban.crd.ge.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mdisea!mothost!schbbs!news Wed Jun 2 10:21:37 EDT 1993 Article: 17923 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking,rec.food.veg Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mdisea!mothost!schbbs!news From: cegr01@email.mot.com (Tom Rubinstein) Subject: Re: Yucca in Michigan? Reply-To: cegr01@email.mot.com (Tom Rubinstein) Organization: Motorola Resource Development Engineering Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 16:15:46 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jun1.161546.22518@schbbs.mot.com> Lines: 59 News-Software: IBM OS/2 PM RN (NR/2) v0.17h by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers References: Sender: news@schbbs.mot.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: 145.25.2.2 Lines: 59 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:17923 rec.food.cooking:49280 rec.food.veg:24550 In lsloan@nova.gmi.edu (Lance Sloan) writes: >This memorial day, I found an interesting plant at the front of the cemetary. >My dad told me that it was a yucca. But I always thought that yucca was a >cactus-type plant (succulent?) and liked hot, dry areas. Michigan is like >that sometimes, but not in recent years. > >The plant has long thin leaves which are a bit pointy/sharp at the tips. >The more mature leaves have hair-like curly fibers that stick out from the >edges. It seems to have a single, very long root that goes deep into the >ground. Deep compared to the low, round shape of the plant. All leaves >grow out from the center. > >Also, a tall stalk grows out of the center of the plant and has flowers and >fruit. I've only seen the dead stalks, so I don't know what the flowers or >fruit look like. My dad told me that other people in mid-Michigan have had >these plants and the fruit looks like stubby cucumbers. In fact, they >pickle them like cucumbers and he's even seen them served in restauruants. >If the fruit is not touched, the whole stalk will turn brown, the fruit will >dry and split open in three parts. There are black seeds inside the dried >fruit. > >What I need to know is, what is this thing? Is it really a yucca? Any >speculations on a scientific name? > >Also, how would I care for this plant? I plan on keeping it in a pot on >my balcont and probably bring it in during the winter. (Even though they >seem to survive the winters here.) What size pot should I put it in? >How much sun/water does it like? The ones I have were growing in the >open, but under the shade of trees. > >What is known about eating the fruit? How should it be prepared/pickled? > >Any suggestions are appreciated. Please send me email, which I read more >often than news. I will post a summary later. > > >-- > Lance Sloan lsloan@nova.gmi.edu > UNIX System Administrator GMI Engineering and Management Institute > Assistant Programmer Flint, Michigan, USA >From your description, it sure sounds like a yucca. Yucca plants are native here (among other places). The long stem in the middle is called a "Lord's Candle" or something like that. As to pickling the cucumber-like things below the flowers, I've never heard of anybody doing that. My son just did a report on native plants (including yucca) for a Junior High bio class. If you want more info on yucca, email me directly and I will get the info from him. --Tom ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tom Rubinstein "Opinions expressed are not necessarily Motorola those of Motorola" P.O. Box 85036 San Diego CA 92186-9130 email: cegr01@email.mot.com Tel: 619 530-8432 Fax: 619 530-8470 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams Wed Jun 2 10:21:38 EDT 1993 Article: 17924 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams) Subject: Carrots & germination (Was: Community Gardens) Message-ID: <1993Jun1.121429.6008@hemlock.cray.com> Summary: Use Peat moss mulch & keep it wet. Lines: 17 Nntp-Posting-Host: cherry10 Reply-To: dadams@cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1453300218@igc.apc.org> Date: 1 Jun 93 12:14:29 CDT Here is what I do. I got this idea from the Nichols Garden Nursery Catalog, and it seems to work well for me. After an area is prepared in a raised bed, broadcast the carrot seed thinly over the area to be planted. Then cover with about 1/4" of peat moss. Give it a sprinkle each morning to make sure it is still wet. The peat moss will help to retain moisture and will allow the carrots to grow up through easily. --- --David C. Adams Statistician Cray Research Inc. dadams@cray.com -Sourdough and Ham- N0WWN Old Cowboys never die. They just smell that way! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!udel!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!news.oc.com!convex!bjones Wed Jun 2 10:21:39 EDT 1993 Article: 17925 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!bogus.sura.net!udel!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!news.oc.com!convex!bjones From: bjones@convex.com (Brad Jones) Subject: Re: Red and Yellow Peppers Sender: usenet@news.eng.convex.com (news access account) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 18:56:05 GMT References: Nntp-Posting-Host: neptune.convex.com Organization: Engineering, CONVEX Computer Corp., Richardson, Tx., USA X-Disclaimer: This message was written by a user at CONVEX Computer Corp. The opinions expressed are those of the user and not necessarily those of CONVEX. Lines: 20 Roberts_D@BMS.COM (Dan Roberts) writes: >Is it true that the way you get red and yellow bell peppers from green bell >peppers is to let the green pepper grow on the plant until a worm gets >inside the green pepper and cause the pepper to change Green bell (sweet) peppers are not yet fully ripe in most cases. Some varieties and their ripe (mature) color are: Summersweet 860 (Yellow) Big Bertha (Red) Peppouri Orange (Orange) California Wonder (Red) Peppouri Lilac (Lilac) >colors??..Also...should I stake up my pepper plants???>>>Thanks...Dan I stake them to prevent strong winds from knocking them over. The root system is somewhat shallow and a healthy plant can be top-heavy. Brad From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!news Wed Jun 2 10:21:41 EDT 1993 Article: 17926 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!news From: rubin@watson.ibm.com (Bill Rubin) Subject: Re: Self propelled lawn mower doesn't self propel Sender: news@yktnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 19:34:28 GMT Distribution: na Lines: 16 Reply-To: rubin@watson.ibm.com (Bill Rubin) Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM. References: Nntp-Posting-Host: wgros2.watson.ibm.com Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research X-Newsreader: IBM OS/2 PM RN (NR/2) v0.17k by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:17926 misc.consumers.house:34151 In rubin@watson.ibm.com (Bill Rubin) writes: >I have a Sears 22" self-propelled rear drive lawn mower. I've had it for 3 >years, it's worked fine. Yesterday when my wife was mowing a rather thick >(ie, unmowed) portion of our lawn, it stopped moving. The blade still >moves, but it won't get in gear and move on its own. I looked underneath, >the only thing that seems like it might be wrong is that the belt is on the >outside of what looks like a channel that it should be in.. Well, if anyone cares, the problem turned out to be the belt. Once I managed to pry it back into the channel it worked fine. Amusingly, Sears called this weekend to try and sell me a service contract extension. I asked "how much?", the woman said "$120". I thought, Hmm, $120 for 3 years is an ok deal.. until she told me it was for *1 year*! Needless to say I did not renew my service contract... -- Bill rubin@watson.ibm.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!wotan.compaq.com!twisto.eng.hou.compaq.com!cpqhou!thomasr Wed Jun 2 10:21:42 EDT 1993 Article: 17927 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!wotan.compaq.com!twisto.eng.hou.compaq.com!cpqhou!thomasr From: thomasr@cpqhou.se.hou.compaq.com (G. Thomas Rush) Subject: Re: SLUGS Organization: Compaq Computer Corp Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 18:12:48 GMT Message-ID: References: <93151.173518WRATHAL@auvm.american.edu> <1993Jun1.122713.7045@syma.sussex.ac.uk> Lines: 15 In article <1993Jun1.122713.7045@syma.sussex.ac.uk> andy@syma.sussex.ac.uk (Andy Clews) writes: > >But, I'd go for the beer-trap for starters, in order to avoid chemicals of >any kind. Waitaminute, here. I was told there was alcohol in beer. And water, too. Or is it only in the UK that you've got this miracle chemicalless beer... how can you tell when you've had enough? -- thomas rush compaq computer corporation thomasr@cpqhou.compaq.com their employee, not their opinions. MISD (Magnolia, Texas) School Board Seat 5 results: Alta Rickett (I): 650, 53.8%. Thomas Rush: 558, 46.2%. Thank you. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!tomm Wed Jun 2 10:21:43 EDT 1993 Article: 17928 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!tomm From: tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) Subject: Transporting Oak Diseases Sender: news@cupnews0.cup.hp.com (News Admin) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 20:32:14 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: hpindadb.cup.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9.4] Lines: 22 A friend travelling in Spain brought back some acorns gathered beneath the oaks in the Alhambra. He was pretty careful to pick only those which had no bore holes, and reinspected them when he got back, destroying those (by cracking the nuts and nuking them in the microwave) which seem a little suspicious. He then planted the ones he had left, some of them germinated, and I now have a tiny little oak tree in my front yard. Big Question: Was he careful enough? Are there any viral diseases which might still be transmitted thorough the plant? Should I destroy the tree (and tell my friend to destroy the ones he kept)? Does anyone have any suggestions? (Kay, are you reading this?) Aside - I probably should call the Cal Berkeley Extension on this one... Tom ------------------------------------------------------------------- tomm@hpindada.cup.hp.com Tom McNeal at Hewlett-Packard's Information Networks Division 19410 Homestead Rd., M.S. 43LN, Cupertino, CA 95014 (408)447-2300 ------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Wed Jun 2 10:21:44 EDT 1993 Article: 17929 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Catnip & Catmint Message-ID: <1993Jun1.202629.28687@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <24891@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1993 20:26:29 GMT Lines: 13 In article <24891@mindlink.bc.ca> Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >>According to anything I have read on the subject cats go after catnip but >aren't nearly so interested in catmints. If my cat Lizzie went after catnip more avidly than catmint she would be underground. She dives into the Nepeta faassenii and rubs it to death with her jaw. My dozen plants are now six clumps of bare stems with a few tiny fuzzy gray-green leaves. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!utnut!utgpu!bae Wed Jun 2 10:21:45 EDT 1993 Article: 17930 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoron