From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!nuntius Sat Jul 24 12:27:18 EDT 1993 Article: 19664 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!nuntius From: Annie Fetter Subject: Small Brown Beetles are Eating my Basil! Message-ID: Sender: news@cc.swarthmore.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: mac1.dupont1b.swarthmore.edu Organization: The Geometry Forum X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1 Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1993 03:39:01 GMT Lines: 28 As good vigilant pest hunters, we went out to the garden around 10pm tonite to see what has been eating the basil. I expected to see earwigs, but instead there were millions (well, lots) of brown beetles, about 1/4" in length, merrily chomping away. We managed to sweep about 15 of them into a container of water and dish detergent, but many of them got away - either running or flying. We also found them on the peppers and eggplants, though not nearly in such great numbers. So what are these things? And how do we get rid of them? We're supposed to be swamped by basil right now, but there hasn't been a lot to harvest. We sprayed the plants with water and dish detergent, but when we went out again at 11, the evil pests were back. Help! (This follows our slaying four tomato horned bugs in the last two days.) Thanks, -Annie ***** Annie Fetter Swarthmore, PA annie@forum.swarthmore.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!asuvax!ncar!acd.ucar.edu!fredrick Sat Jul 24 12:27:19 EDT 1993 Article: 19665 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!asuvax!ncar!acd.ucar.edu!fredrick From: fredrick@acd.ucar.edu (Timothy Fredrick) Subject: Need advice on new lawn that's dying in spots Message-ID: <1993Jul10.035304.22494@ncar.ucar.edu> Sender: news@ncar.ucar.edu (USENET Maintenance) Organization: Ntl Center for Atmospheric Research - Atmospheric Chemistry Div Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1993 03:53:04 GMT Lines: 27 About 1 month ago I moved into a newly constructed house. The builder provided a front lawn and I hired a company to put in the back lawn. Now there's a dramatic difference between the two. While the back lawn is lush, green, and thick, the front lawn is dying out in well-defined spots. That is, the lawn looks green up to a line at which point it's a golden brown (as if it were winter-dormant). I have dug under a couple of these spots and have noticed construction debris and basically poor looking clay soil as if the sod was laid on top of untilled clay earth. In every case, I am taking out the rocks and construction debris and mixing planting soil (which I had bought for trees) with the clay. Am I doing the right thing? Have other new home owners complained about construction debris killing their lawns as a warranty claim? What nutrients can I give my lawn that will help with the brown spots? The lawn, if anything, is being overwatered since I and my neighbors originally attributed these brown spots to 2 weeks of hot (90+) weather we had recently. The soil under the sod is extremely moist. Can I let up on the watering without killing the grass in the brown spots entirely? Any other advice? Thanks in advance. --Tim Fredrick (fredrick@acd.ucar.edu) PS - For those from this area, the house is in Louisville, CO just north of Denver and East of Boulder. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!sdcc15!ee171ubh Sat Jul 24 12:27:20 EDT 1993 Article: 19666 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!sdcc15!ee171ubh From: ee171ubh@sdcc15.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How do you save onion seeds? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 10 Jul 1993 04:24:10 GMT Organization: Seventies Preservation Society Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <21lg9aINNl1q@network.ucsd.edu> References: <20n92eINNhh3@ctron-news.ctron.com> <1993Jun29.163512.3542@lsl.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: sdcc15.ucsd.edu Summary: Elephant garlic prodgeny? Keywords: onions garlic seed >Most onions will not set new bulbs unless they are multiplier onions. >These include shallots and potato onions. Garlic and elephant garlic >multiply by bulbs and are not propagated by seed. > >Bob Klebba Yes, buty what would happen if one were to grow the seed that a mature Elephant Garlic produces? A few of the elephant garlics here have big winding snaky stalks with big purple explosions and little black seeds. What should I expect these seeds to grow into? Can I plant them directly or should I dry them. Nancy Bubbel does not specify. Thanks. xoxo -- smaschue@ucsd.edu or just sean. -- sean maschue From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!sdcc15!ee171ubh Sat Jul 24 12:27:20 EDT 1993 Article: 19667 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!sdcc15!ee171ubh From: ee171ubh@sdcc15.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: squirrels - HELP Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 10 Jul 1993 05:09:41 GMT Organization: Seventies Preservation Society Lines: 37 Distribution: world Message-ID: <21liulINNmh9@network.ucsd.edu> References: <217em3$mb2@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: sdcc15.ucsd.edu Summary: KILL'EM Keywords: ground squirrels suck. >Is there a way to keep squirrels out of my garden? This year, more than most, >they're eating everything that germinates. I wouldn't mind sharing veggies >with them if they'd let them grow, but they just won't wait. I tried >spreading moth balls around but they couldn't care less. The only other >advice I've gotten is to shoot'em, but I live in town. Is the only thing >to do is rig a chicken wire fence around AND over the garden? This would >make it awfully inconvenient for me to get in. Any help/suggestions will >be appreciated. O.K. You need to ask yourself how serious you are about dealing with them. For example, if you are ready to start thinking about next Spring's garden, then there is a chance. Get a dog. Get some cats. Get a crossbow since you live "in town" Bows and arrows are nice and quiet, while a little more precise than shotguns can quickly thin out your population without disturbing the neighbors. Such bows also have the second more important Kevlar piercing benefit. You should also consider a peanut--butter-baited Havageart trap of medium size. Relocate the vurmin if the are really just ground squirrels opnly a few miles a way. The ground squirrels will not find their way back like real forest squirrels. We have trapped well over 100 in the last year and a half and have none buyt a couple left. Spray painted a few orange to see if they would make it back, but never saw them. Plants are finally thriving. Good luck. Our plants are finally thriving. xoxo -- sean smaschue@ucsd.edu -- sean maschue From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!sdcc15!ee171ubh Sat Jul 24 12:27:21 EDT 1993 Article: 19668 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!sdcc15!ee171ubh From: ee171ubh@sdcc15.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Those goddamn flies--castor in compost?>??? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 10 Jul 1993 05:43:23 GMT Organization: Seventies Preservation Society Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <21lktrINNnk2@network.ucsd.edu> References: <1993Jul6.155037.1@sscvx1.ssc.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: sdcc15.ucsd.edu Summary: Castor in compost >two things I do to control insects. I collect the grass clippings and place >on the compost pile and periodically laydown a layer of plain cardboard over >the pile when it gets yucky. I sometimes prowl my neighborhood for weedbeds >along the road with the mower to put on the pile and have taken to growing >castor bean plants for extra bulk filler. CASTOR!!! I thought we weren't supposed to compost CASTOR? What is the deal with this? Are we allowed to now? I think castor is toxic to other plants -- it certainly seems this way in th garden here. What do you folks know about this? I have only been advised not to by John Jeavons and a few others, but I am not really sure why. any ideas? xoxo -- sean smaschue@ucsd.edu -- sean maschue From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!nwfuw Sat Jul 24 12:27:21 EDT 1993 Article: 19669 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!nwfuw From: National Wildlife Federation Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 09 Jul 93 21:05 PDT Subject: Re: Squash Problem Message-ID: <1453300263@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 24 Jeff: The problem you describe could be squash vine borers although it seems a little early for NY. I recently watched 2-4 of the adults moths patrolling my zucchini and trombone squash. I managed to squash a few -- moths -- soon I'll see the telltale signs of borer damage--frass or caterpillar/borer feces close to the base of the plant on the main stem. It doesn't take much hundred degree heat to cause wilting once a borer starts to excavate the main stem. The cure isn't easy. Most books suggest finding the entry point, slitting open the stem to find the borer, killing it then covering the incision with soil hoping that the plant will send out new roots into this soil. I have tried, with some success, injecting either Bt or parasitic nematodes into the stem near the point where I see the droppings. I kept the plant well-watered for the day or two it takes for either of these biological controls to take effect. I have also replaced my standard zucchini-- black beauty-- with the trombone squash which roots vigorously from the nodes and should assure me better plant support as I battle the borers. . .. . ./s From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah335 Sat Jul 24 12:27:22 EDT 1993 Article: 19670 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah335 From: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks) Newsgroups: sci.bio,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Stoney pitted fruits Date: 10 Jul 1993 17:59:49 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 13 Message-ID: <21n02l$fqc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <21khca$mvi@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <21khej$n2t@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Reply-To: ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks) NNTP-Posting-Host: slc4.ins.cwru.edu Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu sci.bio:9704 rec.gardens:19670 Is it true that the pits of fruits such as peaches, plums, necterines, etcs. contain a small amount of a cyanogenic compund such a cyanide? If so, how much? How many pits would one have to consume before he has a lethal dosage? Thanks. > > From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!nexus.yorku.ca!tony Sat Jul 24 12:27:23 EDT 1993 Article: 19671 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,soc.culture.british Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!nexus.yorku.ca!tony From: tony@nexus.yorku.ca (Anthony Wallis) Subject: British earwig predators ? Message-ID: Sender: news@newshub.ccs.yorku.ca (USENET News System) Organization: York University References: <1993Jul9.172634.11979@bmerh85.bnr.ca> Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1993 18:41:12 GMT Lines: 12 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:19671 soc.culture.british:40871 In rec.gardens, sjane@bnr.ca : > .. I hear that in their native England [earwigs] have predators & > so don't get so numerous that they start eating everything in sight. What is this earwig predator that blesses the scepter'd isle ? Hedgehogs ? Real robins (i.e. _not_ that migratory thrush) ? Daft royals, chequebook journalists, etc. ? Can we import them by the millions to earwig-infested N. America ? -- tony@nexus.yorku.ca = Tony Wallis, York University, Toronto, Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!dm055 Sat Jul 24 12:27:23 EDT 1993 Article: 19672 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!dm055 From: dm055@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Rebecca A. Jone) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Cucumber beetles Date: 10 Jul 1993 19:03:10 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 7 Message-ID: <21n3pe$mdu@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu I think these are cucumber beetles. I AM on the west coast (Alameda, CA.) so I guess the spots make sense. I just sprayed the roses with diazinon. Maybe that will help. The Mr. Lincoln bush (very fragrant) was the one that they seemed to like. It's almost finished with this bloom cycle so maybe the beetles will go away on their own! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!dm055 Sat Jul 24 12:27:24 EDT 1993 Article: 19673 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!dm055 From: dm055@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Rebecca A. Jone) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Cucumber beetles Date: 10 Jul 1993 19:08:47 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 13 Message-ID: <21n43v$n0q@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu I've been checking that rose bush every day. I have found several beetles in the blooms when I cut them. I turn the blooms upside down and out come the beetles. I pick them off and send them off to beetle heaven. I've found that if I cut the blooms shortly after they open then there aren't too many beetles in them. If I let the bloom fully open then the beetles are numerous. Turn those blooms upside down and not only do you get beetles coming out but all the petals fall out too! Those green ladybugs definitely go straight for the bloom on that one bush. Luckily that bush is at the end of its latest bloom cycle so maybe the beetles will go somewhere else (hopefully not to my other roses!). I also sprayed with Diazinon today. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat Jul 24 12:27:24 EDT 1993 Article: 19674 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: growing bulb onions Message-ID: <1993Jul10.122433.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 10 Jul 93 12:24:33 MDT References: <21hmitINNibj@network.ucsd.edu> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 20 In article <21hmitINNibj@network.ucsd.edu>, ee171ubh@sdcc15.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue) writes: > > > Hello. Can people please explain the theory behind how to > grow big sweet bulb onions? Like for example -- do we > want them to dry-up before harvesting? What is this seasoning stuff? To grow sweet onions you've got to keep them growing. Water frequently until they are ripe, if they dry out they will be VERY stong. Once they are ripe the tops will die off naturally, you can them pull them out and leave them in the sun to "season" for a week or so, this helps them store better. > We have all these big yellow, red and white onions in the ground...and > they are just drying-up, now. Not sure what to do. Water, or develop a taste for STRONG onions! Don From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!quack!pharvey Sat Jul 24 12:27:25 EDT 1993 Article: 19675 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!quack!pharvey From: pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey) Subject: the hardy cherimoya [Asimina triloba] was Hardy Fruit Message-ID: Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'. References: <1993Jun30.144859.29210@bnr.ca> <93187.134621U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Date: 10 Jul 1993 22:36:05 UTC Lines: 84 In article <93187.134621U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> writes: >pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey)in reply to >djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (David J. Daulton)'s request for information about >edible landscapes, suggests you can't get more American than Paw Paw [Asimina >triloba]. > A quick note to those who aren't in N.A., there are several different 'Paw >Paw's. There are a number of Asimina. Listed in Cornucopia: A. grandiflora - Florida pawpaw A. obovata - A. grandiflora A. parviflora - dwarf pawpaw A. triloba - pawpaw, Michigan banana, false banana cultivars: Davis, Mary Foos Johnson, Mitchell, Overleese, Rebecca's Gold, Sunflower, Sweet Alice, Taylor, Taytwo, Zimmerman >I have seen Paw Paws growing well in both sun and shade, mostly in and >around small clearings in forest cover. It apparently comes with either male or >female flowering trees, thus you need at least two trees to get fruit. (Some- >one who understands this better might clarify.) Sex in the Annonaceae family is a bit unusual, as anyone who has ever pollinated true cherimoya will tell you, but one tree can set fruit, however cross pollination amongst different cultivars yields higher fruit set. >Also, the fruit doesn't last >too long, hence it isn't generally commercially viable. People are working on the commercial potential. >The leaves of a mature >tree can be quite large. Finally, the range in which it grows may be limited, >so check it out. The tree is quite hardy, but fruit development requires about 150 days of frost free, which limits fruit to about USDA Zone 5 or Michigan. The pawpaw is native to Michigan and much of the commercial development is occuring there. In the eastern US, the pawpaw appears limited to about USDA Zone 8 because the high heat and humidity of further south causes various problems, but there is potential as many Asimina species are native to Florida. Pawpaw are good anywhere on the West Coast of the US, though S. Calif may not get sufficient winter chill and people down there should be growing the true cherimoya anyway. There is a great deal of genetic potential in the Asimina genus. More info: Uncommon Fruits Worthy of Attention, Lee Reich, ISBN:0-201-52381-7, lists Pawpaw, Gooseberry, Nanking Cherry, Medlar, Juneberry, Maypop, Kaki and American Persimmons, Raisin Tree, Black Current, Elaeagnus, Actinidia, Jujube, Apline and Musk Strawberries, Currants Red and White, Mulberry, Lowbush Bluebeery, Asian Pear, Jostaberry, Cornelian Cherry. NAFEX, N. American Fruit Explorers, Jill Vorbeck, RR1, Box 94, Chapin IL, 62628, (217) 245-7589, Pawpaw Group: M. Brett Callaway, Atwood Research Facility, Kentucky State University, Frankfort KY, 40601, (502) 227-7291 Cornucopia, sourcebook of edible plants, Stephen Facciola, ISBN:0-9628087-0-9 There is also a Pawpaw lobby in Washington DC that seeks to promote Pawpaw research and development for commercial growers. "And sich pop-paws! - Lumps o' raw Gold and green, -jes' oozy th'ough With ripe yaller - like you've saw Custard-pie with no crust on ..." - James Whitcomb Riley, "Up and Down Old Brandywine" "I stood in thickets, turned your flat seeds with my tongue, and sucked the juices off those magic stones." - Norbert Krapf, "Paw Paw" "the fruit is like unto peares riall: it hath verie good smell, and an excellent taste." - Hernando de Soto, famous explorer "the fruit is sold in large quantities in cities and towns in those parts of the country where the tree grows naturally." - Charles Sprague Sargent, first director of Harvard's Arnold Arboretum "Four states - Illinois, Kentucky, Michigan and West Virginia - even have towns named Paw Paw." - Uncommon Fruits ... "the Beltway circling Washington, DC, went right through the collection of David Fairchild [famous American botonist]" - Uncommon Fruits ... As Marty Stouffer would say, "Enjoy our Wild America!" From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!think.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat Jul 24 12:27:25 EDT 1993 Article: 19676 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!think.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Subject: Pink pansies turning bordeau! Message-ID: Summary: Why does part of my pink pansy turn wine-red in colour? Keywords: Viola wittrockiana, pansy, Ultima pink Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1993 18:49:26 GMT Lines: 16 I have two store-bought pink pansies (Viola wittrockiana, probably Ultima pink). A part of one plant now sports wine-red flowers. Some flowers are a good deep bordeau, others are somewhere inbetween the usual pale pink and the bordeau. I've checked, so it's not a seedling, but actually _part_ of one of the original plants. My question is: Why? Why do some flowers change colour, and will this happen to the rest of the plant, and will it happen to all plants? I've ordered seed for Ultima Pink pansies, so I really want to know! --Ceci (Chiltern has the pink pansy seed) -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== "'Bit of a boodwah,' said Nobby, with the air of a connoisseur." Terry Pratchett in _Guards!_Guards!_ =================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!think.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat Jul 24 12:27:26 EDT 1993 Article: 19677 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!think.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Subject: Egg-cartons as seed trays (Result) Message-ID: Summary: Don't use egg-cartons. Keywords: egg-cartons Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1993 19:03:38 GMT Lines: 33 I've tried to use egg-cartons to start seeds in. Here's how I fared. I tried three different seeds: Callistephus (annual asters), Lathyrus odoratus (sweet peas), Ipomoea (morning glory). The asters were a disaster. Out of 18 seedlings only 4 survived planting out. I removed the cardboard entirely from their roots, which probably spelt death for some seedlings. Others were simply underdeveloped to cope with life in the great outdoors. The sweet peas were better. All seedlings survived planting out, but showed signs of transplantation shock. The new growth looks very different from the growth they had when they were planted out. The morning glories went bad. Most of them seem to have survived planting out, but they haven't grown. The tallest shoot is now 30 cm (1') high. Today I've removed the remaining cardboard from their roots, given them some extra water and fertiliser, and I'm praying that I will have _any_ morning glory flowers this year. All these are fairly easygoing annuals, which should really present no problem even to a not so experienced gardener. My only conclusion is DON'T USE EGG-CARTONS TO START SEEDS IN. They belong in the compost. Shredded. --Ceci, one experience richer. -- "They're justified and they're ancient and they like to roam the land, they don't want to upset the apple cart and they don't want to do any harm, but if you don't like what they're going to do, you better not stand in the way, course they're coming through!" The KLF From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!nexus.yorku.ca!tony Sat Jul 24 12:27:26 EDT 1993 Article: 19678 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!nexus.yorku.ca!tony From: tony@nexus.yorku.ca (Anthony Wallis) Subject: Re: Egg-cartons as seed trays (Result) Message-ID: Keywords: egg-cartons Sender: news@newshub.ccs.yorku.ca (USENET News System) Organization: York University References: Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1993 23:28:51 GMT Lines: 18 Cecilia Henningsson reports: > [ disaster using egg-cartons for starting seeds ] > DON'T USE EGG-CARTONS TO START SEEDS IN. As soon as I read that I took a look at a standard cardboard egg-carton. The pockets are not deep enough. Also, I suspect the cardboard will wick away water too fast - thus either the soil is not being kept moist enough, or else you water it enough and the cardboard rots and you get mouldy interference. Not only that, germination trays should have drainage holes and be watered to the point of runout - hardly practical with cardboard. Probably OK for germinating radish seeds in school science class, but not for serious horticulture. -- tony@nexus.yorku.ca = Tony Wallis, York University, Toronto, Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!quack!pharvey Sat Jul 24 12:27:27 EDT 1993 Article: 19679 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!quack!pharvey From: pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey) Subject: Re: Sources Message-ID: Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'. References: <741966880.AA00735@tdkt.kksys.com> Date: 10 Jul 1993 22:41:32 UTC Lines: 10 In article <741966880.AA00735@tdkt.kksys.com> Philip.Antisdel@f2007.n282.z1.tdkt.kksys.com (Philip Antisdel) writes: >Can anyone tell me where to buy the following plants: > Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) > Sweet Fern (Comptonia Peregrina) > Wintergreen (Gwultheria Procumbews) > Fragrant Sumac (Rhus Aromatica) Forest Farm, 990 Tetherow Road, Williams, Oregon, 97544-9599, Cat $3, (503) 846-6963 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Sat Jul 24 12:27:27 EDT 1993 Article: 19680 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: horticultural oil Message-ID: <1993Jul8.222304.1463@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 9 Jul 93 06:23:04 GMT References: <1993Jul7.202953.5132@megatek.com> Organization: - Lines: 9 In article <1993Jul7.202953.5132@megatek.com>, redman@shark.megatek.com (Tim Redfield) writes: > I forget - will spraying oil on my roses have any affect on > rust and/or black spot, or is it primarily for scale, mites, > etc. Thx mucho. > It won't do a thing for fungi. Try funginex. Jim From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!caen!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf Sat Jul 24 12:27:28 EDT 1993 Article: 19681 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!caen!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf From: adamf@hopper.ACS.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: garden garlic question Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: U.Va. Internet Public Access Project References: <93190.072218HEIDIH@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1993 00:21:55 GMT Lines: 23 In article <93190.072218HEIDIH@MAINE.MAINE.EDU> writes: >My brother has asked me to pass on this question regarding the garlic he's grow >ing. The greens are now about 2 ft. tall and have this "curly thing" on top. Ki >nd of like a "pig's tail," and it's conical and white with what looks like the >beginning of a bud. Question is: what should he do with this? discard them? ben >d 'em down and pop them into the soil to keep growing? The garlic is not ready >yet; he's tried. Does anyone know what this is? and what to do with it? Yes, this is a "top set" - a form of reproduction by this type of garlic(ophio) If he wants, he can clip the thing, or leave it. The green (topset) is known as "green garlic" by garlic lovers and is great to eat. If he clips the top, his cloves and bulb will be bigger(I have done it both ways and clipping works to increase yield)and he can eat the top, or dry it or leave it, and get topset bulbils which can be used to produce more garlic if the grower is patient-thay take 3+ years to reach a good size once you use them for propagation, three+ years of repeated planting and harvesting that is. I would recomend eating the green and getting a bigger bulb to start. Adam Adam Finkelstein VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St. Harrisonburg, VA 22801 adamf@hopper.acs.virginia.edu jef2f@livia.acs.virginia.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!decwrl!pa.dec.com!e2big.mko.dec.com!adserv.enet.dec.com!winalski Sat Jul 24 12:27:28 EDT 1993 Article: 19682 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: sci.bio,rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!decwrl!pa.dec.com!e2big.mko.dec.com!adserv.enet.dec.com!winalski From: winalski@adserv.enet.dec.com (Paul S. Winalski) Subject: Re: Stoney pitted fruits Message-ID: <1993Jul11.005827.1260@e2big.mko.dec.com> Lines: 15 Sender: usenet@e2big.mko.dec.com (Mr. USENET) Reply-To: winalski@adserv.enet.dec.com (Paul S. Winalski) Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Nashua NH X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-5 References: <21khca$mvi@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <21khej$n2t@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <21n02l$fqc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1993 00:58:27 GMT Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu sci.bio:9706 rec.gardens:19682 In article <21n02l$fqc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks) writes: |> |>Is it true that the pits of fruits such as peaches, plums, necterines, etcs. |>contain a small amount of a cyanogenic compund such a cyanide? |>If so, how much? How many pits would one have to consume before he |>has a lethal dosage? Yes, it's true. If you woofed down a whole nut bowl full of peach seeds (the thing inside the pit) on an empty stomach, you'd probably get quite ill. You have to eat quite a lot of them to get a lethal dose. A half dozen or so is completely harmless (to adults; infants might be another matter). --PSW From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!mossop Sat Jul 24 12:27:29 EDT 1993 Article: 19683 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!mossop From: mossop@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Antony Mossop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,soc.culture.british Subject: Re: British earwig predators ? Date: 11 Jul 1993 01:19:59 GMT Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences Lines: 19 Message-ID: <21nprv$k84@morrow.stanford.edu> References: <1993Jul9.172634.11979@bmerh85.bnr.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: pangea.stanford.edu Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:19683 soc.culture.british:40875 In article tony@nexus.yorku.ca (Anthony Wallis) writes: >In rec.gardens, sjane@bnr.ca : >> .. I hear that in their native England [earwigs] have predators & >> so don't get so numerous that they start eating everything in sight. > >What is this earwig predator that blesses the scepter'd isle ? >Hedgehogs ? Real robins (i.e. _not_ that migratory thrush) ? >Daft royals, chequebook journalists, etc. ? >Can we import them by the millions to earwig-infested N. America ? > >-- >tony@nexus.yorku.ca = Tony Wallis, York University, Toronto, Canada > Well I think it must be the lettuce. The ones I grew back in the UK were always stuffed to the gills with earwigs. Tony Mossop, geophysics, Stanford From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!aukuni.ac.nz!kcbbs!pandora Sat Jul 24 12:27:29 EDT 1993 Article: 19684 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!aukuni.ac.nz!kcbbs!pandora Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RE: Cardinal Flowers Message-ID: <3693189.12032.27695@kcbbs.gen.nz> From: Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting) Date: 9 Jul 93 03:20:32 GMT References: Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand Lines: 18 >From: sbs@chewie.dr.att.com (Sandy Burke Slowey) >cardinal flowers though, describing them as looking like miniature >red lupines. IN my book of 'What Flower is That' by Stirling Macoboy the 'Cardinal Flower' is the common name for LOBELIA cardinalis. It is a bog-loving perennial grown from divisions, its leaves are dark-red & its flowers a vivid flame. Its country of origin is the USA and it grows to about 3 ft. Sorry I can't help you with where to get it from. __________ _____________________________ _________________ | _ | | | | \\_ | Dawn Scotting is:- | Please turn off | | /_ > | pandora@pinn.nacjack.gen.nz | your quoting | | | (_)o Kia Ora from | posting email | | /_/ | /\ \ New Zealand | to me. | |__o_______|_____________________________|_________________| From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!aukuni.ac.nz!kcbbs!pandora Sat Jul 24 12:27:30 EDT 1993 Article: 19685 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!aukuni.ac.nz!kcbbs!pandora Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bird Pudding Message-ID: <3693189.36635.1170@kcbbs.gen.nz> From: Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting) Date: 9 Jul 93 10:10:35 GMT Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand Lines: 46 A few days ago someone was wanting information on setting up a hummingbird garden, I can't help you with the garden itself but the following is a recipe for making a bird pudding to hang in the trees, it attracts all sorts of small birds especially the hoverers. Bird-Pudding Bird pudding can be made of equal parts (by volume) of four ingredients: dripping, honey, bran (or wheat-germ) and brose-meal or pea flour (protein rich, dried, finely ground peas, sold at health food shops). Lightly melt the dripping in a warm (not hot) pan, then meld in the honey (I did it in the microwave). Having mixed together the bran & the brose-meal thoroughly, stir them into the honey-dripping mixture. As it cools, the resulting bird-pudding will stiffen to a thick paste. Take a large, dry pine cone whose `leaves' have opened widely in the heat & cut it off cleanly from its stem, then screw into the base a small screw-eye so that the cone can be hung upside down on a fine cord. Push the cooling & thickening bird-pudding into the spaces between the 'leaves', until the whole thing looks like a bird-pudding pineapple. If you suspend it near a branch, wattlebirds will take it over & eat all the pudding in a few days. If you suspend it in mid-air, silvereyes will cluster on it to eat, & yellow-faced honeyeaters will take their share while hovering. So, occasionally, will house sparrows, but they are clumsy hoverers, & will not usually be too much bother. Birds like grey shrike-thrushes will feed at it & (if they can reach it) so will Australian magpies, grey butcherbirds, blue wrens, blackbirds & many others. Should you find the birds are eating too much pudding, take the precaution of chilling the whole thing in the fridge before hanging it out. It will become very firm & be difficult to gather in beak-fulls. This was copied from an Australian magazine, I have made one of these using pea-flour instead of brose-meal which I guess is the same thing. I set mine in the fridge and then spooned it into an onion bag. It took the birds a few days to find it and so far only the wax-eyes are eating from it but they love it and you should see them flitting in & out and fighting over the best position! __________ _____________________________ _________________ | _ | | | | \\_ | Dawn Scotting is:- | Please turn off | | /_ > | pandora@pinn.nacjack.gen.nz | your quoting | | | (_)o Kia Ora from | posting email | | /_/ | /\ \ New Zealand | to me. | |__o_______|_____________________________|_________________| From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!aukuni.ac.nz!kcbbs!pandora Sat Jul 24 12:27:30 EDT 1993 Article: 19686 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!aukuni.ac.nz!kcbbs!pandora Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Withering basil Message-ID: <3693191.11852.8008@kcbbs.gen.nz> From: Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting) Date: 11 Jul 93 03:17:32 GMT References: <0gDR3W70Bww_AIhtFQ@transarc.com> Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand Lines: 17 >From: Cindy_Bloch@transarc.com >background...This year our basil haven't taken off, and some are I don't know if this applies to where you live but here in Auckland, New Zealand if you plant basil too early in the season they just never take off although they will live until the winter comes. I never used to have any success at all with basil until I was told that, I made sure that I waited until it was well & truly warm enough and whoosh, up and out they grew! __________ _____________________________ _________________ | _ | | | | \\_ | Dawn Scotting is:- | Please turn off | | /_ > | pandora@pinn.nacjack.gen.nz | your quoting | | | (_)o Kia Ora from | posting email | | /_/ | /\ \ New Zealand | to me. | |__o_______|_____________________________|_________________| From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!network.ucsd.edu!news.service.uci.edu!skid.ps.uci.edu!pfritsch Sat Jul 24 12:27:31 EDT 1993 Article: 19687 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!network.ucsd.edu!news.service.uci.edu!skid.ps.uci.edu!pfritsch From: pfritsch@skid.ps.uci.edu (Paul Fritschle) Subject: Strange creature on basil Nntp-Posting-Host: skid.ps.uci.edu Message-ID: Newsgroups: rec.gardens Organization: Miskatonic University Department of Computer Science Lines: 14 Distribution: usa Date: 11 Jul 93 06:12:28 GMT Was out picking some basil following a heavy rainstorm, when I found an odd wormy looking thing on a leaf. It was a good 2-3 inches long, and extremely slender.. maybe as thick as a whisker. One end of it was a pale whitish-yellow (maybe half an inch), while the rest of it was black. The whole thing squirmed about, and was most tenacious in resisting being pulled off the leaf. Could this beastie be what is nibbling holes in my basil leaves? And what the heck is it? I've never seen anything like it before in my life!!! -- Paul Fritschle pfritsch@skid.PS.UCI.EDU Cthulhu Saves! (In case he's hungry later...) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!cmcl2!cs!fox Sat Jul 24 12:27:31 EDT 1993 Article: 19689 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!cmcl2!cs!fox From: fox@graphics.cs.nyu.edu (David Fox) Subject: Re: Seed supplier In-Reply-To: envy.reed.edu!drenner's message of 11 Jul 1993 06:26:59 GMT Message-ID: Sender: notes@cmcl2.nyu.edu (Notes Person) Nntp-Posting-Host: graphics.cs.nyu.edu Organization: Courant Institute of Mathematical Sciences References: <21obrj$in1@scratchy.reed.edu> Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1993 13:47:21 GMT Lines: 9 In article <21obrj$in1@scratchy.reed.edu> envy.reed.edu!drenner (Hopi) writes: Does anybody know of a good mail order seed or seedling supplier for exotic plants. ie both foreign and domestic flora, supplies for herb gardens, ornamental shrubs, and gardening. You can get this info from the book "Gardening By Mail: A Source Book." It is by Barbara J. Barton, published by Houghton Mifflin in Boston. ISBN 0-395-52280-3. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!apple.com!netcomsv!netcom.com!mnr Sat Jul 24 12:27:32 EDT 1993 Article: 19690 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!apple.com!netcomsv!netcom.com!mnr From: mnr@netcom.com (Mark Rosenberg) Subject: Sickly looking Asiatic Lily blooms Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1993 15:18:07 GMT Lines: 5 My Asiatic lilies are starting to bloom but the first several flowers did not open up well. The petals seem to be a little shriveled. The plants get about 6 hours of direct sunlight. Any idea about what is wrong or how to correct the problem? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!ravel.udel.edu!melanie Sat Jul 24 12:27:32 EDT 1993 Article: 19691 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!ravel.udel.edu!melanie From: melanie@ravel.udel.edu (Melanie) Subject: Minitature Roses won't bloom Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.udel.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: ravel.udel.edu Organization: University of Delaware Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1993 17:22:35 GMT Lines: 12 Help. Whenever I buy a minature rose it is in bloom HOWEVER it stops flowering soon after, never to bloom again. Does anyone know how to make them start again??? Melanie -- -Melanie Melanie@ravel.udel.edu Melanie was here...are you??? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!rutgers!utcsri!utnut!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!nexus.yorku.ca!tony Sat Jul 24 12:27:33 EDT 1993 Article: 19692 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!rutgers!utcsri!utnut!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!nexus.yorku.ca!tony From: tony@nexus.yorku.ca (Anthony Wallis) Newsgroups: sci.bio,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Stoney pitted fruits Message-ID: Date: 11 Jul 93 17:16:37 GMT References: <1993Jul11.005827.1260@e2big.mko.dec.com> Sender: news@newshub.ccs.yorku.ca (USENET News System) Organization: York University Lines: 22 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu sci.bio:9707 rec.gardens:19692 Paul S. Winalski answers > | [Do] the pits of fruits such as peaches, plums, necterines, etcs. > | contain a small amount of a cyanogenic compund such a cyanide? > | .. How many pits would one have to consume before he > | has a lethal dosage? > Yes, it's true. If you woofed down a whole nut bowl full of > peach seeds (the thing inside the pit) on an empty stomach, > you'd probably get quite ill. You have to eat quite a lot of > them to get a lethal dose. A half dozen or so is completely > harmless (to adults; infants might be another matter). A "LD50 of peach pits" thread was bashed around while back. No canonical figure is published because the amount of cyanogenic compounds in these pits varies a lot. A "half-dozen or so" being "completely harmless to adults" may be pushing your luck. There are cases of children (not infants) being poisoned by a few pits. A paradigm case being someone making peach/apricot jam and including the pits, and a child removing the pits and eating them. -- tony@nexus.yorku.ca = Tony Wallis, York University, Toronto, Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Sat Jul 24 12:27:33 EDT 1993 Article: 19693 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: Are these the same plant? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: <1993Jul6.190746.9186@verdix.com> Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1993 18:31:11 GMT Lines: 15 In article <1993Jul6.190746.9186@verdix.com> edm@verdix.com (Ed Matthews) writes: >Are these the same? Which is the latest nomeclature? > > Phygelius capensis, Cape Honeysuckle > Tecomaria capensis, Cape Honeysuckle >-- > >Ed Matthews edm@verdix.com >Manager, APSE Development >Verdix Corporation Headquarters (703) 318-5800 I have Phygelius capensis, and it's called "Cape Fuchsia", though it's not a fuchsia. My neighbor has a Cape Honeysuckle. They're very different plants, though both spread, and have orangish flowers. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!pipex!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat Jul 24 12:27:34 EDT 1993 Article: 19694 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!pipex!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Subject: Re: Alpine Currants - Edible? --Well, sort of. Message-ID: Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University References: <1993Jul8.044943.25692@govonca.gov.on.ca> Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1993 22:41:07 GMT Lines: 22 renzland@govonca.gov.on.ca (Peter Renzland) writes: >I have a lush bush of Alpine Currants next to the Gooseberry which is next to >the Red Currant bush whose leaves are all blistered. >Anuways, this is the third year, and there are quite a few solitary orange >berries on the Alpine Currant bush. They are about the size of a Red Currant >berry, but orange, and they taste a bit bland but not bad. >Are they edible? My guess is that by alpine currant you mean Ribes alpinum (a close relative to the other currants). R. alpinum has edible berries, which usually aren't eaten because they are, as you observed, rather bland. R. alpinum is a useful hedging material. It can be clipped into shape, and is quite tolerant of shade aswell as cold. There are even male clones on sale which don't have any berries. They won't get higher than just above 2 meter, though. --Ceci -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== "Vorbedingung des kuenstlerischen Schaffens ist nicht, ein Ereignis oder ein Motiv so "rein" anzuschauen, dass es auf das betrachtende Subjekt gar keine Wirkung hat." Hermann Leber in _Aquarellieren_lernen_ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!world!eer Sat Jul 24 12:27:34 EDT 1993 Article: 19695 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!world!eer From: eer@world.std.com (Eugene E Rosen) Subject: Silica/Dried Flowers Message-ID: Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 01:05:59 GMT Lines: 13 My friend PAT is not having good results using Silica to dry flowers. Are other methods/products better and is there a secret to it using Silica. thanks gene -- Eugene E. Rosen GENIE: erosen 22 Riverside Road COMPUSERVE:74066,3444 Sandy Hook, Ct. 06482-1213 AOL: Gene Rosen From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!newshost.wcc.govt.nz!kosmos.wcc.govt.nz!woods_m Sat Jul 24 12:27:35 EDT 1993 Article: 19696 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!newshost.wcc.govt.nz!kosmos.wcc.govt.nz!woods_m Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Try MILK cartons for seedlings! Message-ID: <1993Jul12.134239.1@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz> From: woods_m@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz Date: 12 Jul 93 13:42:39 NZST Organization: Welligton City Council, Public Access. NNTP-Posting-Host: kosmos.wcc.govt.nz Lines: 13 Although egg cartons are no good for seedlings, according to a recent gardening programme, milk cartons work well! I haven't had a chance to try it myself yet, but this was the method. Cut the milk carton in half (assuming a 1 litre carton!) then undo the two bottom flaps and cut them off to allow drainage. Put your soil and seeds in. When the plant is ready to be planted out, you don't need to remove it from the carton but put the whole thing into the ground and the carton will decompose itself allowing the plant's roots to become established. Hope it works! :) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ftpbox!mothost!binford!mcdchg!ast!smith!leah Sat Jul 24 12:27:35 EDT 1993 Article: 19697 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ftpbox!mothost!binford!mcdchg!ast!smith!leah From: leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: EARWIG INVASION Message-ID: <966@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 11 Jul 93 18:39:55 GMT References: <21jute$pfa@terminator.rs.itd.umich.edu> <16C06932A.TROUTMAN@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu> <1993Jul9.172634.11979@bmerh85.bnr.ca> <21kqu5$lhc@news.acns.nwu.edu> Reply-To: leah@smith.UUCP (L.A.Z. Smith) Organization: R. H. E. Smith Corp., Wheeling, IL Lines: 25 In article <21kqu5$lhc@news.acns.nwu.edu> rhalgren@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Robert Halgren) writes: >*brief summary* I have lots of earwigs and i don't know what to do. > > By all means, don't wimp out and use nasty toxic chemicals. Please! Well, for those of you who WANT to use nasty toxic chemicals, my neighbor, a Master Gardener, swears by diazinon, which is less toxic than many things. He recommends sprinkling it around the foundation of the house and on the windowsills. As an added benefit, it will also get rid of ants. We tried it and it seems to help the earwig problem, but hasn't entirely stopped them coming in the house. Our neighbor says we didn't use enough. The one book I have that mentions earwigs at all recommends insecticidal soup, but that requires spraying ON the bugs to work. The encyclopedia says earwigs eat insects and doesn't say anything about them eating plants, but something is chewing on mine and I haven't seen evidence of any other kinds of bugs, while there are LOTS of earwigs. And in any case, I don't want them in the house! The way I figure it, I can try to coexist peacefully with insect life if it stays outdoors, but by coming in my house they sign their death warrant. L.A.Z. Smith leah@smith.chi.il.us From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!wkuvx1!cabanrf Sat Jul 24 12:27:36 EDT 1993 Article: 19698 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!wkuvx1!cabanrf From: cabanrf@wkuvx1.bitnet Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Insect Deterents? Message-ID: <1993Jul10.233736.6545@wkuvx1.bitnet> Date: 10 Jul 93 23:37:36 CDT References: <20vjlk$5ls@hecate.umd.edu> <211ql8$1s3@meaddata.meaddata.com> <1993Jul2.203130.23834@casbs.Stanford.EDU> <21fhrh$4ha@news.bu.edu> Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green, KY Lines: 41 In article <21fhrh$4ha@news.bu.edu>, bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: > Just the other day on the local (Boston) news, they did a piece on mosquito > repellants. > > Use Cutter's or some other product with about 30-33% DEET. Period. Use > as directed (lightly), and do not get it in your eyes. Wash from palms. > > Skin-so-Soft (the scientists doing the research said) works BUT only for > from 5-15 minutes. NOT worth the investment. (My personal experience will > support this, by the way -- I get REAL bites from mosquitoes!!) > > A higher concentration of DEET is no added bang for the buck (no extra > effectiveness) AND is potentially harmful to you (and, especially, to > children who are more suceptible to the negative effects, which can include > convulsions and other nasty symptoms in a rare few, of which you might be > one!) > > My only conplaint is that you aren't supposed to use Cutter's under clothes > (I assume to minimize contact with skin at all) and my worst mosquito bites > are through my shirts etc.! Damned bugs LOVE me!! > > (FWIW -- my doctor said to take 2 100mg vitamin B1 tablets a day to repel > mosquitoes! I don't notice any improvement after a month or so of this, > but maybe one of you would like to try!)(That's Thiamine sp?) > > Wanna join my Mosquito Anti-existance Society? > > Sherry > I know it's against some some folks beliefs but..... I smoke cigars. I get bit *very* rarely. My wife has an extreme allergic reaction to mosquitos. She nnow smokes cigars. She doesn't get bit often either. (Her getting bitten seems to be an inverse relation to her cigar consumption.) I dunno if it'll work for you or if you even desire to taker this extreme step, but it does work for me. (Though to tell the truth, I'd smoke the cigars regardless of the mosquito situation. It's just an added bennie. :-) Roy F. Cabaniss From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!wkuvx1!cabanrf Sat Jul 24 12:27:36 EDT 1993 Article: 19699 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!wkuvx1!cabanrf From: cabanrf@wkuvx1.bitnet Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: converting lawn to garden help needed Message-ID: <1993Jul10.234922.6546@wkuvx1.bitnet> Date: 10 Jul 93 23:49:22 CDT Organization: Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green, KY Lines: 27 I've got a rather large front lawn that is going to become a rather large strawberry bpatch. At the moment I am tilling the ground, after which I will be covering it thing with plastic to try and kill weeds (I found 8 4ft diameter rolls of 6 mil plastic that I swapped a front tine tiller for.) After two months or so with the plastic I plan on covering the entire area with wheat straw (pulling the plastic up) over the winter. Till it in in the spring and plant strawberrys leaving the mulch in the aisles. I wish to totally avoid herbicides and pesticides. Any suggestions? Partidcularly with regard to weed control. (The lawn is about 2 acres and I'm tired of mowing.) Would just tilling the area every two weeks do better at weed control (and grub removal) than the plastic idea? Thanks for the help. Roy F. Cabaniss BTW, our state Dept of Ag is of no help whatsoever on organic approaches. They couldn't even point me to good books. All they said was spray for broadleaf control and spray for insect control. So please don't send me to our ag aagent. OTOH, they were very helpful in picking varieties of the plants and where I could get them. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!wkuvx1!cabanrf Sat Jul 24 12:27:36 EDT 1993 Article: 19700 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!wkuvx1!cabanrf From: cabanrf@wkuvx1.bitnet Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: compost help Message-ID: <1993Jul10.235450.6547@wkuvx1.bitnet> Date: 10 Jul 93 23:54:50 CDT References: <1993Jul1.113431.14386@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul5.104437.20387@bradford.ac.uk> <1993Jul6.163119.14514@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: Western Kentucky University, Bowling Green, KY Lines: 32 In article <1993Jul6.163119.14514@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > In article <1993Jul5.104437.20387@bradford.ac.uk>, N.W.R.Ayres@bradford.ac.uk (NWR AYRES) writes: >> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu (klier@iscsvax.uni.edu) wrote: >> >> : But it sounds like you don't have enough nitrogen to do a good job >> : of composting, and not enough oxygen in the pile (bet it's a little >> : stinky). You might try my lazy method of composting, which involves >> : layering over pvc pipe that I drilled many holes into the sides... >> : I put down a couple of pipes (in a 4x4 ft area), toss on about 18" >> : of new stuff, more pipes, more vegetable matter, more pipes.... >> : The ends of the pipes should protrude from the pile. I do the >> : same sorts of things with sunflower stalks and corn stalks-- they >> : just aren't too available this time of year. Pipe diameter doesn't >> : matter much. I just use scrap PVC. > >> Do you really find that this mathod makes a difference? Dont the holes block >> very quickly and dont he sides of the heap dry out leaving you hay? > > All I can tell you is that it works for me... and it's a lot easier on my > back than all the turning was... I step on the ends of the pipes > occasionally to sort of lift the mass a bit, and tarp to keep the > moisture relatively constant. How big a PVC pipe are you using? Stepping on the end of a 1/2 in pipe will just bend the pipe (or break it). OTOH, if it's lateral line pipe I can see this working. Roy > > Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!amdahl!netcomsv!netcom.com!robin Sat Jul 24 12:27:37 EDT 1993 Article: 19701 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!amdahl!netcomsv!netcom.com!robin From: robin@netcom.com (Robin Rosenberg) Subject: I *finally* chose a vine... Message-ID: Organization: The Rosenberg Group, Sunnyvale, CA Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 05:43:53 GMT Lines: 26 Thank you to everyone who responded to my query about what kind of vine to plant in a barrel, to cascade around the perimeter of my garage door. The suggestions were very helpful. After far too much thrashing, I finally decided on the dark purple variety of bouganvilla. It grows really well in my area, and the dark purple will look really striking against the light grey stucco and white garage door. I also decided to plant a couple of pink trailing verbena plants at its base, just for some color down there. The suggestions I received mostly consisted of wisteria, clematis, bouganvilla, and honeysuckle. Mandevilla "Alice du Pont" was mentioned as having showy flowers, but tends to look a bit ragged as a vine. My first choice was the purple potato vine, but I discovered that it doesn't grow as a true vine as the white variety does. Rats! Ah, well. I hope that the bouganvilla will do ok in a pot! Thanks again, everyone. -- Robin Rosenberg robin@netcom.com "Growing roses makes every day seem like Valentine's Day." From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!planet.bt.co.uk!polaris!prk Sat Jul 24 12:27:37 EDT 1993 Article: 19702 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!planet.bt.co.uk!polaris!prk From: prk@planet.bt.co.uk (Peter Knight) Subject: Re: Those goddamn flies in the compost pile Message-ID: Sender: news@planet.bt.co.uk Organization: BT Labs, Martlesham Heath, Ipswich, UK. References: <1993Jul6.173921.2052@hsh.com> Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 09:32:07 GMT Lines: 40 paul@hsh.com (Paul Havemann) writes: >stuarts@jeeves.ucdavis.edu (Stuart Staniford-Chen) writes: >> >[...] >> So we decided to build ourselves a nice new set of compost boxes, which we >> did. Now we throw all our kitchen waste (from around 40 people) straight >> into the compost. Those of us who garden also put in weeds, old annuals >> etc sometimes. However, we all tend to leave grass clippings on the lawn, >> so the dominant component of the compost is kitchen scraps. Meat remains >> are not allowed in there. >> >> The problem is that we are getting simply horrific maggot problems in the >> first box. [....] >> The boxes are 3' cubes, and at that point it was half full. Parts of it >> were fairly hot, but presumably the maggots can move around from the >> hotter parts to fresh material. >I don't have the maggots, but I do have lots of other wriggly buddies in >my compost box. I just began using a compost box last fall; as per the >usual specs, its bottom is open to the earth, and it has a cover on it and >slits open to the air. Though it isn't yet half-full, it gets only >kitchen waste and enough water (or so I judge) to make it happy -- yet so >far, I've "produced" more bugs & critters than compost; the box is home to >gnats, crawlies, and several other varieties of multi-leggers. Several >spiders have even moved in, thus testifying to the richness of the menu >there. >Should I be concerned that I may have more bugs than bacteria? Is this >an example of a poorly functional compost box? If so, suggestions >(organic, of course!) as to evicting the insect populace are welcome... Both these heaps probably don't have enough nitrogen, ie grass clippings. You could try adding compost activator to your heaps, or (cheaper) water them with a solution of sulphate of ammonia. This should raise the temperature, so the bugs find somewhere else to live. Peter Knight #include From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!planet.bt.co.uk!polaris!prk Sat Jul 24 12:27:38 EDT 1993 Article: 19703 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!planet.bt.co.uk!polaris!prk From: prk@planet.bt.co.uk (Peter Knight) Subject: Re: converting lawn to garden help needed Message-ID: Sender: news@planet.bt.co.uk Organization: BT Labs, Martlesham Heath, Ipswich, UK. References: <1993Jul10.234922.6546@wkuvx1.bitnet> Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 09:43:04 GMT Lines: 39 cabanrf@wkuvx1.bitnet writes: >I've got a rather large front lawn that is going to become a rather >large strawberry bpatch. At the moment I am tilling the ground, after >which I will be covering it thing with plastic to try and kill weeds >(I found 8 4ft diameter rolls of 6 mil plastic that I swapped a front >tine tiller for.) After two months or so with the plastic I plan on >covering the entire area with wheat straw (pulling the plastic up) >over the winter. Till it in in the spring and plant strawberrys >leaving the mulch in the aisles. >I wish to totally avoid herbicides and pesticides. Any suggestions? >Partidcularly with regard to weed control. >(The lawn is about 2 acres and I'm tired of mowing.) >Would just tilling the area every two weeks do better at weed control >(and grub removal) than the plastic idea? Leave the plastic on and the straw, OFF. If you are keen to avoid herbicides and pesticides, there is no point importing them on the straw. Also, the straw will remove nitrogen from the soil as it rots down, so impoverishing the strawberry plants. The plastic should do most of the weed suppression for you, leaving you to pull up the weeds that grow through the planting holes - not a big job. Plastic doesn't last very long - you may need to replace it biannually or annually. If you don't like the look of the plastic, then cover it with (say) bark or something else you can stand to look at. Finally, remember that heavy mulching of whatever sort will encourage wood-lice, slugs and other things that like strawberries, so be prepared to lift the plastic and till the soil between the plants to discourage these pests. Peter Knight #include From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news Sat Jul 24 12:27:38 EDT 1993 Article: 19704 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news From: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey) Subject: raccoons - help! Reply-To: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Organization: University of Western Ontario Distribution: na Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 10:32:59 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul12.103259.18440@julian.uwo.ca> Sender: news@julian.uwo.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: cupoftea.ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Lines: 15 i planted the water garden this weekend and came out sunday morning to find 200 dollars worth of plants scattered on the ground. how can i stop raccoons from "playing" in the pond? i built a 10" wall of bricks around the edge with the shallow shelf -- that might help -- but it rained last night so i suspect the 'coons just stayed in the trees, tonight we'll see if this helps. -- Lance R. Bailey System/Network Manager Robarts Research Institute NeXT/email: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca box: Clinical Trials Resources Group fax: +1 519 663 3789 P.O. Box 5015, 100 Perth Dr. vox: +1 519 663 3787 x4108 London, Canada N6A 5K8 Don't solder anything while wearing shorts. Your thighs thank you. -J.Pearsall From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!think.com!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Sat Jul 24 12:27:39 EDT 1993 Article: 19705 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!think.com!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Try MILK cartons for seedlings Date: 12 Jul 1993 11:45:19 GMT Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Lines: 38 Distribution: world Message-ID: <21risf$m6h@GRAPEVINE.LCS.MIT.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: im4.lcs.mit.edu >Newsgroups: rec.gardens >Subject: Try MILK cartons for seedlings! In article: <1993Jul12.134239.1@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz> woods_m@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz suggests: >Although egg cartons are no good for seedlings, according to a recent >gardening programme, milk cartons work well! I haven't had a chance to >try it myself yet, but this was the method. > >Cut the milk carton in half (assuming a 1 litre carton!) then undo the >two bottom flaps and cut them off to allow drainage. Put your soil >and seeds in. > >When the plant is ready to be planted out, you don't need to remove it >from the carton but put the whole thing into the ground and the carton >will decompose itself allowing the plant's roots to become established. > >Hope it works! :) Half of this works. You can cut 1-quart (1-liter) or 1/2-gallon (2-liter) milk cartons in half LENGTHWISE (top-to-bottom) and use them for seed-starting trays, or crosswise and use them for individual pots. HOWEVER, you cannot bury them and expect complete decomposition, at least in the US. Here they contain a thin layer of plastic to make them water, er, that is milk, proof. Years ago they used wax and that was relatively ok. I still, sometimes find little milk-carton-sized hunks of plastic in my garden from when I was trying the above idea and that was back in the 70's! Be warned. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W|  From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:27:39 EDT 1993 Article: 19706 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 11 Jul 93 10:30 PDT Subject: Re: Whithering basil Message-ID: <1453300264@igc.apc.org> References: <0gDR3W70Bww_AIhtFQ@transarc.com> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 18 If your basils are at the end of the patio, lime might be leaching from the mortar in the patio and raising the soil pH. You might want to check it out. It's also possible that the patio is holding heat from daytime sun and giving it out at night. My basil seems to do best with some shade, especially in the superhot weather we're having at the minute. You might want to dig the ones that are suffering as though you were going to transplant them and see what the roots look like. The plants could actually be root bound even in open soil if the soil is very heavy and you didn't spread the roots when you transplanted them. We had a garden with incredible clay, and I actually had some root bound plants. They just couldn't make it out into the clay. If the plants are rootbound, separate them from their ball, dig around in the soil to loosen it up and replant. Good luck Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:27:40 EDT 1993 Article: 19707 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 11 Jul 93 10:36 PDT Subject: Re: Small Brown Beetles are Eating my B Message-ID: <1453300265@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 9 Annie, you might want to collect another couple of the beetles and take them to the Delaware Co. office of Penn State Coop Extension. (I think they're still in Rosetree Park.) If they're round and spotted, they might be potato beetles, but take a sample to the experts. I hope the horn worms you killed didn't have little white eggshaped things on their backs. They're wasp egg cases and the wasps kill the hornworms. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:27:40 EDT 1993 Article: 19708 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 11 Jul 93 10:45 PDT Subject: Re: Stoney pitted fruits Message-ID: <1453300267@igc.apc.org> References: <21n02l$fqc@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 5 Yes, it's true. You'd probably have to eat quite a few, but don't try it. There is actually an apricot without the cyanide whose pits can be et like almonds. I think that Stark Bros sell it. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:27:41 EDT 1993 Article: 19709 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 11 Jul 93 10:42 PDT Subject: Re: Strange creature on basil Message-ID: <1453300266@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 12 Sounds like a caterpiller, the parent/child either of a saw fly or a moth or butterfly. It certainly could be eating holes in basil leaves; although in all my years of growing basil in Philadelphia, I've never had such a beast. Rodale has an illustrated book of bugs with great pix that might help; otherwise check it out with your nearest entomologist, extension office or garden center. Most garden centers have a gigunda Ortho pest identifier and killer book. It might be in there. Anyway, let us know what it turns out to be. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!ersys!Freddy!ralph.cook Sat Jul 24 12:27:41 EDT 1993 Article: 19710 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!ersys!Freddy!ralph.cook From: ralph.cook@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca (Ralph Cook) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Tree Nurserys Message-ID: <50.7163.1066.0N0012E1@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca> Date: Sun, 11 Jul 93 22:05:00 -0520 Distribution: world Organization: Freddy's Place BBS - Edmonton, AB - 403-456-4241 Lines: 4 Hi. I'm interested in getting mailing addresses and phone numbers of tree nurserys in North West U.S. and Western Canada. This info seems hard to locate and I'm hoping that any one that can will take some time to send back the names of their local nursery. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news Sat Jul 24 12:27:42 EDT 1993 Article: 19711 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news From: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey) Subject: Re: Need help in Pond design.. Reply-To: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Organization: University of Western Ontario Distribution: na Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 12:51:20 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul12.125120.29228@julian.uwo.ca> References: <1993Jul9.171928.10312@brtph560.bnr.ca> Sender: news@julian.uwo.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: cupoftea.ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Lines: 55 In article <1993Jul9.171928.10312@brtph560.bnr.ca> jsharpe@bnr.ca (Jeffrey Sharpe) writes: > How can I secure the PVC under the concrete walkway. > Is this more trouble than just butting the PVC against > the concrete? see below. > Do you know of a good mailorder outfit for inexpensive PVC. i ordered from PondLiners in Nestleton Ontario -- they sell non-PVC solution which is pretty cheap. i was at Reimer WaterScapes in Tillsonburg Ontario on the weekend and i believe they have a sale on liners right now. > Is it save to butt the PVC up against the foundation of my > house? (Brick foundation) If so, How can I do it? here is how i finished the liner -- the idea came from Lee Valley Tools Summer Garden catalogue. bring the liner up, and then UNDER 2 courses of bricks. the liner then continues behind the liner and wraps over top of them. Finish with cap stones or with another layer of bricks. the two courses of bricks remain submerged and the water lever must drop a full 5 inches before the liner is exposed. ground _______ |BRICK ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ water level |BRICK +-----+ \ <-- liner \ you could do the same thing ending up with a row of brick on either side of the walk, OR use the walk as the cap stone and make a trench under the walk. after filling, stuff the two courses of bricks under the walk, pinning the liner under the bricks and between the walk and bricks. use wedges to tighten up the fit. ________ ________| <--- walk +--- <----- liner |BRICK ~~~~~~~~~~~~ water level |BRICK +-----\ \ you could probably adapt the same idea to the edge of the house, maybe even mortaring the capstones/bricks to the house to help them stay put (know any masons who can treadwater :) -- Lance R. Bailey System/Network Manager Robarts Research Institute NeXT/email: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca box: Clinical Trials Resources Group fax: +1 519 663 3789 P.O. Box 5015, 100 Perth Dr. vox: +1 519 663 3787 x4108 London, Canada N6A 5K8 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!news.larc.nasa.gov!antares!jls Sat Jul 24 12:27:42 EDT 1993 Article: 19712 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!news.larc.nasa.gov!antares!jls From: jls@antares. (Jon Sweet) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Hibiscus Bugs Date: 12 Jul 1993 13:21:21 GMT Organization: LESC/NASA/LaRC Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <21roghINNepr@rave.larc.nasa.gov> References: <21bpevINN33v@early-bird.think.com> Reply-To: jls@antares. NNTP-Posting-Host: antares.larc.nasa.gov Try a light dusting of Sevin dust. Works real good and I don't think it's too harmful. I've seen the bugs, too, and they don't seem to cause any problems other than being unsightly. ================================================================ _| _/ _/ _/_/_/ _| All opinions expressed are _| _| _/ _/ _/ _| my own because nobody else _| _| _/ _/ _/_/_/ _| wants them! _| _| _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _| jls@antares.larc.nasa.gov _| _| _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _| Jon L. Sweet _| ================================================================ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Sat Jul 24 12:27:43 EDT 1993 Article: 19713 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Roses Message-ID: <1993Jul10.213801.1464@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 11 Jul 93 05:38:01 GMT References: <1993Jul9.174143.9479@megatek.com> Organization: - Lines: 18 In article <1993Jul9.174143.9479@megatek.com>, redman@shark.megatek.com (Tim Redfield) writes: > I posted a couple a days back, but saw no replies so maybe > it didn't make it out. > > My question is will hort. oil be effective on rust or > black spot, or is it primarily used for scale, mites > and other bug like creatures. > Well, I replied, but maybe it didn't get out there. Hort. oil only works on insects. Try funginex on your roses. BTW, where in San Diego did you find horticultural oil? Jim From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!overload.lbl.gov!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Sat Jul 24 12:27:43 EDT 1993 Article: 19714 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!overload.lbl.gov!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Should Oleanders get composted? Message-ID: <1993Jul10.214520.1465@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 11 Jul 93 05:45:20 GMT References: <1993Jun28.211143.11498@donner.SanDiego.NCR.COM> <1993Jun29.164156.3543@lsl.co.uk> <21k0e3$klv@Tut.MsState.Edu> <21k9kl$c8o@meaddata.meaddata.com> Organization: - Lines: 22 In article <21k9kl$c8o@meaddata.meaddata.com>, barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) writes: > > What I wonder is, if a compost heap breaks down plant material into nitrogen, > phosphorus, etc. in a manner that makes it "more available" to growing plants, > and if one shouldn't add material that has had insecticides, pesticides, etc. > applied to them for the same reason, why would the composting process selec- > tively "break down" the toxins in Oleanders, and the growing plants NOT take > them up? (Not meaning to be contentious.) > > I've wondered about this myself - what about mushroom, rhubarb leaves, etc.? > -- Well, I say compost them all. They'll break down when you compost them. Even if they don't, your plants can't absorb these toxins anyway. (Do you ever worry about eating other vegetables that grow near your rubarb?) Anyway if other plants could absorb the toxins form oleanders, we'd have known it by now. Virtually every citrus grove is surrounded by huge oleander hedges. Jim From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith Sat Jul 24 12:27:44 EDT 1993 Article: 19715 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: EARWIG INVASION Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 13:56:17 GMT Lines: 15 I've heard some of the usual controls such as corrugated cardboard, pipes, beer or vegetable oil in a margarine container and crumpled paper in flower pots set upside down on short sticks. However, someone suggested that they are unaware of any natural predators in North America. I have heard that one or two species of bird loves them...I just can't remember which as I don't currently have an earwig problem. Maybe someone out there can identify which and how to attract it. One other predator that I *know* eats earwigs is the Praying Mantis. If there is lots of food available for it, the Mantis will stick around in your garden. best of luck! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!dptspd!tamsun.tamu.edu!news Sat Jul 24 12:27:44 EDT 1993 Article: 19716 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!dptspd!tamsun.tamu.edu!news From: matthew@zoot.tamu.edu (Matthew Almand) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: tobasco recipe? Date: 12 Jul 1993 14:13:04 GMT Organization: Texas A&M University, College Station, TX Lines: 11 Message-ID: <21rrhg$o2e@tamsun.tamu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: zoot.tamu.edu I vaguely remember about a year ago someone posting to this group that Organic Gardening magazine had a recipe for tobasco sauce. Can someone tell me which issue this recipe is in? Thanks in advance.... ------------------------------------------------------------------ Matthew Almand Texas A&M University matthew-almand@tamu.edu ------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.intercon.com!panix!netnews!cmcl2!cs!fox Sat Jul 24 12:27:45 EDT 1993 Article: 19717 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.intercon.com!panix!netnews!cmcl2!cs!fox From: fox@graphics.cs.nyu.edu (David Fox) Subject: "Noah's Garden", by Sara Stein Message-ID: Sender: notes@cmcl2.nyu.edu (Notes Person) Nntp-Posting-Host: graphics.cs.nyu.edu Organization: Courant Institute of Mathematical Sciences Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 15:30:17 GMT Lines: 51 Forgive me for jumping in as a newcomer, but I want to start a discussion about a book I've just read. I've gardened some but not much in the past, so I'm not trying to sound like an expert, its just that I read this book that impressed me greatly and I'd like to hear the opinions of others. I've just finished reading a new book by Sara Stein called "Noah's Garden". I found it very inspiring; I always felt there was something missing for me from gardening and this book finally showed me what it is. Instead of trying to create a visual tableau the aim could be to create a richer and healthier community of plant and wildlife, appropriate to the local environment. To this end, she advocates and discourages many things contrary to the usual advice, and even some advice I've read on this newsgroup. For example, lawns are a monoculture which can only exist unaided in cool, rainy climates like the U.K., and they provide little nourishment or cover for wildlife. For these reasons, their use should be minimized. She advocates native berrying shrubs and ponds with mud bottoms. In a chapter about soil structure she discourages excessive tilling and weed control -- the soil is a system, and turning it upside down disturbs its working. She discourages most forms of pest control, on the grounds that there are natural checks and balances which should come into play, and if they don't the community needs to be enriched. Each chapter is an analysis of a different system in the garden - forest, hedgerow, soil, ponds, lawn, prarie (or meadow), etc. She is not pedantic about natural methods, she uses a herbicide at one point, and she advocates deer hunting (especially doe hunting.) After reading this book I have come to see much of what we call landscaping today to be quite barran. A huge expanse of lawn looks like a desert, a forest with the understory cleared away is no longer a forest, it can only be called a tree collection. Best of all, the writing is wonderful. This is not a reference book, it is really a personal point of view. I recommend it highly, and would be interested in hearing what others thing about it. -david P.S. This book was reviewed in the New York Times book review about a month ago. P.P.S. The neighbor's cat attacked our Cardinal yesterday. I wonder if we have any recourse? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:27:45 EDT 1993 Article: 19718 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv From: gwv@hemlock.cray.com (George Walter VandenBerghe) Subject: Re: How to combat spider mites? Message-ID: <1993Jul12.094745.12843@hemlock.cray.com> Originator: gwv@hemlock Lines: 45 Sender: gwv@hemlock (George Walter VandenBerghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: hemlock Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993Jul9.152236.8689@ejv.com> Distribution: rec Date: 12 Jul 93 09:47:45 CDT In article <1993Jul9.152236.8689@ejv.com>, pwagner@ejv.com (Peter Wagner) writes: > Yesterday I asked about combatting white fly, now I've got the same > question about spider mites: > > Everything in our deck garden is infested with spider mites. I twice > put out some ladybugs a week or so ago, but they quickly disappeared. > I'm hesitant to spray chemicals, since I don't want to kill our > mantisses. However, I may be forced to. I couldn't find any > mantisses today anyway, there were loads just a few days ago... > > So, what organic ways are there to kill spider mites? How about > inorganic? Thanks, I'll post a summary. > > >p > > > -- > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Peter Wagner EJV Partners, L.P. > pwagner@ejv.com 199 Water St. Floor 19 > 212 214 7240 fax: 212 214 7275 NY, NY 10292 > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Spider mites thrive in hot dry environments with poor air circulation. If you can hose off your plants with a strong stream every other day, you will knock most of them off in a week or so. Improving air circulation will help also but will not control an entrenched population. In the wild, spider mites have a lot of predators. If you have access to a grassy area next to woods or someplace else with a diverse population of weeds and can put infested plants there, the predators will eliminate the spider mites in a week or two. In my opinion praying mantids ability as insect controllers is overrated. Ladybugs are real good to have around though; they control aphids effectively. Neither will control spider mites though. If you have to go the spray route, kelthane used according to directions is probably the best miticide. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!sprengt0664 Sat Jul 24 12:27:46 EDT 1993 Article: 19719 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!sprengt0664 From: sprengt0664@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: A "defective" ash tree Message-ID: <1993Jul12.104852.14651@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 12 Jul 93 10:48:52 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 23 Greetings to the many gardeners out there in net-land! I'm relatively new to this newsgroup (I just began reading it this summer), but I've been consistently intrigued by the diverse gardening tips posted here. Anyway, I hope that someone out there is familiar with my problem. There is an ash tree in my backyard that has a defect at the base of the trunk. One side of the trunk appears normal, but the other side is obviously weak. There is an area of exposed wood at the base that actually appears somewhat rotten. The girth of the base increases on the "normal" side but not on the weak side, and the bark does not seem to be filling in the gap. In essence, it appears that only half of the base is growing. I've lived in the same house for over 6 years. The house is 24 years old, and I'm assuming that the tree is about the same age. I've also heard that this is a fairly common problem with ash trees. I don't know if the problem has gotten any worse since I've lived there, but it hasn't healed itself. Is there a way to treat this without sacrificing the tree? BTW, my area has been plagued by intense thunderstorms and windstorms this summer. After two major storms in as many weeks, numerous large limbs and even some whole trees were downed. Incidentally, ash trees seem to have been hit hardest of any type. I feel fortunate that my weak ash tree survived the onslaught unscathed! Timothy J. Sprengeler Student, University of Northern Iowa From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!msc.edu!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:27:46 EDT 1993 Article: 19720 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!msc.edu!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv From: gwv@hemlock.cray.com (George Walter VandenBerghe) Subject: Sweet corn and raccoons Message-ID: <1993Jul12.101215.15022@hemlock.cray.com> Originator: gwv@hemlock Lines: 25 Sender: gwv@hemlock (George Walter VandenBerghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: hemlock Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Date: 12 Jul 93 10:12:15 CDT It is getting to be sweetcorn season in large parts of the country. Here is an unsolicited tip on how to reduce raccoon depredations. Raccoons are attracted to sweetcorn by scent. If you pick your corn as soon as it is ready, avoid picking it when the plants are wet, and clean up corn plant debris and move it as far away from your garden as possible, they will be slower to find your corn. Never husk and clean your corn in the garden or near the woods. They will smell it, infer that there is corn somewhere and start searching. You need to be especially vigilant in wet weather because any wound in the plants will start to ferment and give off an attractive aroma when the plants are wet. In such weather, they may find you no matter what you do. In that case, growing your corn in succession crops with a gap of at least ten days between maturities during which there will be a week of no corn, will minimize your losses unless the whole summer is continuously wet and humid. I grow my corn next to a county park that has many raccoons. Most years I lose less than a quarter of my crop to them. This year because of persistant drought conditions in the DC area, I have had four crops mature so far since June 18 and not lost one ear to them (yet). From samba.oit.unc.edu!usenet Sat Jul 24 12:27:47 EDT 1993 Article: 19721 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!usenet From: Doug.Hemken@launchpad.unc.edu (Doug Hemken) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tomato blooms Date: 12 Jul 1993 17:19:13 GMT Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service Lines: 24 Message-ID: <21s6eh$8rk@samba.oit.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu Summary: cold-set tomatoes I have a couple of tomato varieties in my garden that do well in cool weather. I grow "Sub-arctic Maxi" (widely available) because it sets fruit even in weather cooler than 50F nights. I gave some seed to my mother-in-law in Texas so she could get some extra early tomatoes, and she swears they are the best tasting variety she has this year. I'm also trying a variety called "Sandpoint" that a friend gave me, and I'm pretty sure it set fruit while it was still too cool for most varieties -- it seems to be only a few days being the "Sub-arctics". It was the best producer my friend had last year, and he had a cramped shady garden in an unusually cool year in Wisconsin. I'm also growing "Amish Paste," which seems to me to have very good plant development despite cool weather, but which won't set fruit early. It's a very good variety for areas that have cool springs that turn into hot summers (e.g. the upper midwest): "Amish Paste" will get a stronger start than most tomatoes under those conditions. -=> Doug Hemken -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!eddie.mit.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!lehigh.edu!den0 Sat Jul 24 12:27:47 EDT 1993 Article: 19722 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!eddie.mit.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!lehigh.edu!den0 From: den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: EARWIG INVASION Message-ID: Date: 12 Jul 93 14:09:04 GMT References: <21jute$pfa@terminator.rs.itd.umich.edu> <16C06932A.TROUTMAN@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu> Sender: usenet@Lehigh.EDU Organization: Lehigh University Computing Center Lines: 16 Nntp-Posting-Host: 128.180.3.20 In article <16C06932A.TROUTMAN@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu> TROUTMAN@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu writes: > One thing that might >account for their increase is the absense of a natural preditor. >Anyone know what that might be? I collect them quite often and feed them to my fish. So, I've found a predator. My question is, how do I get the earwigs to jump in the tank with the fish? >Leslie Troutman >TROUTMAN@VMD.CSO.UIUC.EDU Dean Nelson Lehigh University Computing Center From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!news.water.ca.gov!sewer.water.ca.gov!tching Sat Jul 24 12:27:48 EDT 1993 Article: 19723 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!news.water.ca.gov!sewer.water.ca.gov!tching From: tching@sewer.water.ca.gov (Rice Cube) Subject: Worms in my pears, help! Message-ID: Followup-To: poster Summary: help?! Keywords: worms, pear Sender: news@news.water.ca.gov Organization: California Dept. of Water Resources Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 15:32:25 GMT Lines: 13 What can I do short of putting a net around my tree? 1) Typically, where do they come from? (I saw white butterflies and wasp- looking things flying around) 2) Is there a "safe" spray I can use to keep the buggers away? Other spray? 3) Is there anything else I can try? ______________________________________________________________________________ Tracy Ching | tching@sewer.water.ca.gov (This is my Linux Electrical Engineer | PC. Give it a try first) Calif. Dept. of Water Resources | tching@target.water.ca.gov <-- try this 2nd Sacramento, CA 95814 | tching@water.ca.gov (try if target bounces) (916) OLD-GOLD | tching@shazam.csus.edu <-- if desperate ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba.oit.unc.edu!gibbs!rosinia Sat Jul 24 12:27:48 EDT 1993 Article: 19724 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!gibbs!rosinia From: rosinia@gibbs.oit.unc.edu (James Rosinia) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,triangle.gardens Subject: preserving deck Date: 12 Jul 93 18:59:59 GMT Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill Lines: 13 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: gibbs.oit.unc.edu Keywords: deck Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:19724 triangle.gardens:149 I suspect that this is not the most appropriate place to post this, so if you don't have an answer to my query, maybe you can tell me where to go ;). Our deck was really dirty and really dry. We cleaned it with some E-Z Deck Wash and now it's clean and really dry. We plan to apply some Thompson's Wood Preservative -- we were told this would not only seal like Thompson's Water Sealer, but it would help the wood. Any tips/suggestions/advice on applying this stuff? I thought of using a pump sprayer to get into the cracks between boards. . . . Thanks for the advice. jim_rosinia@unc.edu A New and Overwhelmed Homeowner From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!pngai Sat Jul 24 12:27:49 EDT 1993 Article: 19725 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!pngai From: pngai@mv.us.adobe.com (Phil Ngai) Subject: clay soil and gypsum Message-ID: <1993Jul12.165320.11665@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 16:53:20 GMT Lines: 17 I have soil with lots of clay. Some people have said that the thing to do is add gypsum. I am curious what the gypsum does in terms of the effects that I would see and possibly the chemical reactions involved. My inclination would be to add sand, would that be more effective than gypsum, less effective, or something that I should also do? Do you just sprinkle it on or do you have to till it in? I was also wondering if sheetrock is made of an appropriate gypsum to use for this purpose. I wouldn't go out and buy sheetrock to do this but sometimes I have some old sheetrock I need to get rid of and I'd much rather recycle it than throw it away. -- Is it possible to have well-paid child care providers and affordable child care? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ncar!buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu!dattore Sat Jul 24 12:27:49 EDT 1993 Article: 19726 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!ncar!buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu!dattore From: dattore@buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu (Bob Dattore) Subject: Question about Mums Message-ID: <1993Jul12.171710.22688@ncar.ucar.edu> Sender: news@ncar.ucar.edu (USENET Maintenance) Organization: Scientific Computing Divison/NCAR Boulder, CO Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 17:17:10 GMT Lines: 11 Our local gardener advises that buds should be clipped from mums to prevent July bloom. Do garden mums normally only bloom once? I have two small plants that I put in this year, that were in bloom when I planted them in May, and they are about to bloom again, so at least these have produced flower buds twice this year so far. The other established plants are also beginning to bloom now. If I allow them to continue now and trim faded flowers, will I get another round of blooms this fall? Thanks for any advice, Bob From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Sat Jul 24 12:27:50 EDT 1993 Article: 19727 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Rosa primula Message-ID: Date: 12 Jul 93 16:51:48 GMT References: <1993Jul12.104852.14651@iscsvax.uni.edu> Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T Lines: 28 Rosa primula: Anyone have any experience with *Rosa primula*? One book I have says it has very fragrant leaves, and another says its scented leaves makes it a "must" for any fragrant garden. But the one I bought from Pickering nursery this year has no leaf scent at all. Two questions: 1. What should it smell like? 2. Where can I get a scented one. Moss Rose: I also read that the "mossy" parts of a moss rose are scented, but I am growing "Napoleon's Hat" (chapeau de something), and smell nothing. But one rose book tells me that this rose was probably not developed from the moss roses, but was a separeate mutation. Maybe that's why. Two questions: 1. What should the "moss" smell like. 2. What is a good variety. Englantine: This is one that has very fragrant leaves, especially afer each rain. Very much a green-apple scent, maybe even a bit too much--I would not plant it right by the door. Dave Daulton From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat Jul 24 12:27:50 EDT 1993 Article: 19728 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Minitature Roses won't bloom Message-ID: <1993Jul12.163936.13654@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 16:39:36 GMT Lines: 18 In article melanie@ravel.udel.edu (Melanie) writes: >Whenever I buy a minature rose it is in bloom HOWEVER it stops flowering soon >after, never to bloom again. > >Does anyone know how to make them start again??? Give it full sun, don't let it dry out, and feed it monthly. My two gift minis are setting buds now for their third blooming period, and that's all I've done for them. Of course, if you have a mini that's bred from an old rose that blooms only once a year, you may have to wait till next spring. I think most of the newer minis are bred for frequent bloom. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!jericho.mc.com!random!linda Sat Jul 24 12:27:51 EDT 1993 Article: 19730 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!jericho.mc.com!random!linda From: linda@random.mc.com (Linda Kosidlo) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Hydrangea Date: 12 Jul 1993 18:00:50 GMT Organization: Mercury Computer Systems, Chelmsford MA 01824 Lines: 15 Sender: linda@random (Linda Kosidlo) Distribution: world Message-ID: <21s8si$1mv@jericho.mc.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: random.mc.com Hi All -- I have a hydrangea bush that I purchased through a mail order catelog about three years ago. It bloomed and had very pretty blue flowers, but now seems stunted and won't bloom again. I've moved it around several times trying to find the best location for it. Some people have told me it needs full sun, others say shade. Now I want to ask real gardeners. The plant now is very small but has lots of healthy looking leaves. Does it require a lot of water? It's now planted in a shade garden, does it need more sun? Thanks. -- Linda Kosidlo linda@jericho.mc.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae Sat Jul 24 12:27:51 EDT 1993 Article: 19731 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: How do you save onion seeds? -- or leeks Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <20n92eINNhh3@ctron-news.ctron.com> <1993Jun29.163512.3542@lsl.co.uk> <1993Jul07.152843.27669@rchland.ibm.com> Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 18:25:01 GMT Lines: 35 In article <1993Jul07.152843.27669@rchland.ibm.com> JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com writes: >This is an interesting thread. I have some leeks that did poorly last year but have >come up wonderfully this year. I have been excitedly expecting leeks this year since >they look great, but alas, they are all going to seed. They do that. They are biennials. A cold period causes them to decide that it is now year two and time to seed. I've had this happen to first year transplants that got too much cold after being put out in the spring. >So the question is, how do leeks seed? What can I expect? Right now they are very >large plangs that have a seed pod about 1 inch in diameter on the center stalk. The "seed pod" is probably a flower bud. It will open and you will have a rather attractive pompom of greeny-purply-white flowers which will probably be followed by a lot of leek seed. >Can you still eat the leeks if they seed? Unfortunately, most of the edible parts will shrivel up as resources are moved to the woody flower stalk. You can try some of the leeks now to see if there is enough edible part left to bother with. If so, you can cut them up and freeze them. Now the interesting part is that if you just leave them there, they will quite likely produce a number of small offsets or thin little leeks in a cluster around the base. You may want to experiment and see how big these get with and without transplanting. In my experience leeks do most of their growing in the fall, so even if they get off to a slow start, these offsets may be a win. I've heard of people maintaining a "perennial" leek patch by these methods, but have never tried it myself, although I did overwinter a leek once and it did make offsets. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae Sat Jul 24 12:27:52 EDT 1993 Article: 19732 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: How do you save onion seeds? Message-ID: Keywords: onions garlic seed Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <1993Jun29.163512.3542@lsl.co.uk> <21lg9aINNl1q@network.ucsd.edu> Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 18:30:59 GMT Lines: 20 In article <21lg9aINNl1q@network.ucsd.edu> ee171ubh@sdcc15.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue) writes: >Yes, buty what would happen if one were to grow the seed that a mature >Elephant Garlic produces? A few of the elephant garlics here have big >winding snaky stalks with big purple explosions and little black seeds. >What should I expect these seeds to grow into? Can I plant >them directly or should I dry them. Nancy Bubbel does not specify. Elephant garlic is botanically a leek (Allium ampeloprasum), not a garlic (A. sativum). The seeds will grow into more elephant garlic, but it may take several years to produce good sized bulbs. It might be interesting to plant them, because there may be a lot of individual variation in these plants, and you may find some that you like better than the parent. You could try some fresh seed and dry some. You get an awful lot of seed from one plant. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM!shay Sat Jul 24 12:27:52 EDT 1993 Article: 19733 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM!shay From: shay@ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM (Shay Barsabe) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Miniature Roses won't bloom Date: 12 Jul 1993 18:30:55 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Mt. View, Ca. Lines: 25 Distribution: world Message-ID: <21sakv$397@male.EBay.Sun.COM> Reply-To: shay@ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM (Shay Barsabe) NNTP-Posting-Host: ebmandoc9.ebay.sun.com I've been collecting minature roses this spring (well, starting in January) -- especially the ones on the half-price table at the local nursery. Now, these half-priced creatures usually have some problems (outgrown their pots, dried-out leaves, and so on). But, when I get them home, I repot them with plenty of organic fertilizer, give them plenty of water (every other day), and put them in the sunlight. So far, they've all (except the one I bought last week) recovered from their problems and are blooming like crazy. One of them was so withered that I cut away half of it -- this week it's put out six, gorgeous pink flowers and is still budding. I tried an experiment that I read about either in rec.gardens or in Organic Gardening: I minced banana peels and worked them into the soil around the pink miniature rose (mentioned above) and a Simplicity bush rose: both of them loved the peels. The rest of them get that treatment this week. Oh! Remember: roses want good drainage, too. Good luck. -- Shay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!icf.hrb.com!jek Sat Jul 24 12:27:52 EDT 1993 Article: 19734 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!icf.hrb.com!jek From: jek@icf.hrb.com (Joseph E. Karolchik) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bouquet vases Message-ID: <1993Jul12.144603.20378@icf.hrb.com> Date: 12 Jul 93 14:46:02 EST References: Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: HRB Systems, Inc. Lines: 27 In article , nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu (Bob Klebba) writes: > > The solution is to give a vase away with every bouquet. I've been buying > cheap vases at the second-hand stores for 25 or 50 cents. Some I get back > and some I never see again. > > Bob Klebba > Nicolet Instrument Corp. > Madison, WI, USA USDA zone 4 > "Submit to Barney" Well, being a cheap kind of person, I came up with a solution to this. I buy a lot of things in glass jars - spaghetti sauce, pickles, etc. I have found that some of the jars make good giveaway vases (instead of tossing them into the recycle bin). My favorite are the Old El Paso salsa jars, which have a neat southwest design around the top. For a plain jar, you can wrap it with colored foil or saran wrap for some variety. I also remember one time when I was probably eight or nine that I made a jar planter for my mom by putting masking tape in a random pattern on the outside of a glass jar and I think rubbing it with shoe polish. It sounds kind of wierd, but it was a neat idea - and it would be a good rainy project for your kids. Just some thoughts, Joe Karolchik State College, PA From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!infonode!dianne.b24a.ingr.com!dianne Sat Jul 24 12:27:53 EDT 1993 Article: 19735 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!infonode!dianne.b24a.ingr.com!dianne From: dianne@dianne.b24a.ingr.com (Dianne Ferrans) Subject: STUMPED again! Message-ID: <1993Jul12.182825.1008@infonode.ingr.com> Sender: usenet@infonode.ingr.com (Usenet Administrator) Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL. Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 18:28:25 GMT Lines: 28 Could someone here outline the various options I have for removing tree stumps, and the related costs/pros/cons? I know: Gasoline burning (does it work?) Grinding them down ($$) acid (toxic? Hazerdos to environment??) Bury them? ???? Thanks! **************************************************************************** * Dianne D. Ferrans ! I like to make everyone's day a little * * Sr. Software Stylist ! more surreal * * ddferran@dianne.b24a.ingr.com! - Calvin & Hobbes - * **************************************************************************** When work is a pleasure, life is a joy! When work is a duty, life is slavery. - Maxim Gorky - From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!mwvm.mitre.org!M17257 Sat Jul 24 12:27:54 EDT 1993 Article: 19736 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!mwvm.mitre.org!M17257 From: M17257@mwvm.mitre.org Subject: Re: Egg-cartons as seed trays (Result) Message-ID: <16C09C595.M17257@mwvm.mitre.org> Sender: news@linus.mitre.org (News Service) Nntp-Posting-Host: mwvm.mitre.org Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102 Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 18:03:01 GMT Lines: 2 I've had great success using STYROFOAM egg cartons for seeds-at least for herb seeds, things like parsley and basil. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!Germany.EU.net!mcsun!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat Jul 24 12:27:55 EDT 1993 Article: 19737 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!Germany.EU.net!mcsun!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Subject: Nutty flower Message-ID: Summary: Why does my Polyanthus have flower buds now? Keywords: primula polyanthus Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 21:01:52 GMT Lines: 13 My Polyanthus has flower buds! I was dead-sure they were springflowering, but there they are, five fat flower buds. The plant was store-bought in February, so it has already bloomed once this year. Now it sits in my garden under the Ribes alpinum hedge. Should I remove the buds, or just enjoy the show? --Ceci, bewildered -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== Hildesheim in Niedersachsen, Deutschland hat einen tausendjaehrigen Rosenbusch und den schoensten, wiederaufgebauten, Marktplatz der Welt. =================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Sat Jul 24 12:27:56 EDT 1993 Article: 19738 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Need help in Pond design.. Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 12 Jul 1993 19:48:11 GMT Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 24 Sender: bailey@butyng.bu.edu Distribution: na Message-ID: <21sf5r$oql@news.bu.edu> References: <1993Jul9.171928.10312@brtph560.bnr.ca> <1993Jul12.125120.29228@julian.uwo.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: butyng.bu.edu I tried to e-mail this idea, but it failed. Lance suggested essentially wrapping the PVC around behind a couple of layers of bricks then sandwiching the PVC between the top brick and a third layer to protect the PVC from UV by either brick or water. The same technique might be possible with pressure treated wood, which might be useful along the house foundation. You might wrap the wood with a few layers of PVC (roll the wood in it from the back, so to speak) so that the wood doesn't come in contact with the pond water (chemical contamination might be possible) and the layer on the outside which might be exposed to light would not effect the structural integrity of the liner. This strip could be covered with something for aesthetics (a "cap" of finished wood, or a cap of wood with tiles adhered or something...) if desired. This might solve the problem of running the pond right up to the house with no buffer zone in between for physical support. Be sure to make sure your foundation is appropriately waterproofed in case of leaks. Be sure to pad very well with old carpeting or thick layers of damp newspapers. Good luck! Sherry From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Sat Jul 24 12:27:56 EDT 1993 Article: 19739 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: "Noah's Garden", by Sara Stein Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 12 Jul 1993 20:09:43 GMT Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 52 Sender: bailey@butyng.bu.edu Message-ID: <21sge7$pgj@news.bu.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: butyng.bu.edu I haven't read Noah's Garden yet -- I have been planning to make it one of the purchases required for joining the Gardening Book Club (which I joined to get Hortus Third for $20!) I have read ABOUT the book, and it does sound interesting. However, before getting too enraptured in the idea, do bear in mind that it probably will leave you with little choice in suburbia. I have a house on 1/5 acre, a fairly typical lot in my area. The back of the lot is a sort of ridge. From the (facing the house on the road) far left corner the lot slopes at a fairly steep angle (~55 degrees, maybe) down to the near right corner which is lowest. (A diagonal sweep, moderated by the position of the house, etc.) I have sand and granite rocks. No pond would be natural or possible with a mud bottom -- the water would all drain away. And the excavation for a pond big enough for this approach would eat up the whole yard, require major fencing by code and otherwise be a problem. But I have a little PVC pond which I enjoy a lot and which the birds and butterflies don't seem to mind NOT being "natural". I could brow brambles and wild black- berries -- they were there to start with. But if I keep them, they will transmit diseases to the domesticated ones I'd like to grow for myself. I can grow wild blueberries -- they are a WEED in my yard. But they don't even entice the birds -- the berries are so small they are ignored and they shrivel up and die. I am trying to plant stuff that is appropriate to my climate (and therefore drought tolerant and not in need of much fussing). AND which is good for habitat for birds and beneficial insects. AND which is attractive. etc. Although I'm sure Noah's Garden supports changing this, still we in suburbia have to contend at the moment with landscaping regulations in zoning, and sometimes that means lawn, like it or not. Also, even if that isn't a big deal, you do have to contend with neighbors. It can be tricky keeping diploamtic relations with a Chem Lawn junkie! I am an original Earth Day gal -- I definitely support ecological endeavors. But sometimes the realities of the current situation don't make it something you can just DO, especially if your environment would demand a type of garden you just can't enjoy. (I'm afraid if I can ONLY grow what would be here without soil ammendment and occasional watering and all those interfering things we do when we garden -- not truly natural after all -- I'd be too bored to bother. I won't try to grow exotics that won't be happy here, but I think I am able to expand on what IS happy and make an interesting and hopefully beautiful garden that can be enjoyed by both man and bird. And some small mammals. But not raccoons -- them I want to make really miserable! REALLY miserable!!! (Sorry, I digress!) (Well, I know raccoons don't know expensive koi from wild fish, but *I* do!!) If you have several acres of what is or used to be rural land with natural springs or creeks or other water, or even wetlands, you can do a lot much more naturally than those of us on little lots in densely settled places.) Fow what it's worth! Sherry From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv Sat Jul 24 12:27:57 EDT 1993 Article: 19740 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv From: nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA) Subject: Fly Maggots & Compost Message-ID: Keywords: Try Vermiculture Sender: news@ohsu.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: 137.53.56.80 Organization: Oregon Health Sciences University Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 20:04:18 GMT Lines: 8 For those of you who appear to use a lot of kitchen scraps (non-meat) you might look into vermiculture instead of composting. I saw this at a composting workshop in a community garden. Basically what you need is a proper box and a bunch of redworms (this is specific, not the worms from your yard). As a great byproduct you get wormcastings to add to your yard and garden. The lecturer at the workshop dumped in orange rinds, a banana peel, and coffee+filter. I plan to try this next year. Reference: _Worms Eat My Garbage_ by Mary Appelhoff, Flower Press, 1982. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!asuvax!ncar!buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu!dattore Sat Jul 24 12:27:57 EDT 1993 Article: 19741 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,triangle.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!asuvax!ncar!buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu!dattore From: dattore@buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu (Bob Dattore) Subject: Re: preserving deck Message-ID: <1993Jul12.195740.9837@ncar.ucar.edu> Keywords: deck Sender: news@ncar.ucar.edu (USENET Maintenance) Organization: Scientific Computing Divison/NCAR Boulder, CO References: Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 19:57:40 GMT Lines: 29 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:19741 triangle.gardens:150 In article rosinia@gibbs.oit.unc.edu (James Rosinia) writes: >I suspect that this is not the most appropriate place to post this, so if >you don't have an answer to my query, maybe you can tell me where to go ;). >Our deck was really dirty and really dry. We cleaned it with some E-Z >Deck Wash and now it's clean and really dry. We plan to apply some >Thompson's Wood Preservative -- we were told this would not only seal like >Thompson's Water Sealer, but it would help the wood. Any >tips/suggestions/advice on applying this stuff? I thought of using a pump >sprayer to get into the cracks between boards. . . . > >Thanks for the advice. > >jim_rosinia@unc.edu >A New and Overwhelmed Homeowner A good place to post this would probably be misc.consumers.house. I'll bet you'd get a decent response. However, I will also throw in my 2 cents... I used Thompson's Water Sealer last year and I would never use it again. I am eagerly waiting for it to weather out so I can apply a quality wood preservative (I'm planning to use Penofin Oil). The reason I didn't like the Thompson's is not because it wouldn't seal the water out (it does that no problem), but it caused my redwood deck boards to take on an ugly gray-white appearance. For whatever it's worth, that's been my experience. Good luck with whatever you use. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews Sat Jul 24 12:27:58 EDT 1993 Article: 19742 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer) Subject: Re: Small Brown Beetles are Eating my Basil! Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 19:27:47 GMT References: Nntp-Posting-Host: jurassic.ch.apollo.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard Corporation, Chelmsford, MA Lines: 51 In article Annie Fetter writes: >As good vigilant pest hunters, we went out to the garden >around 10pm tonite to see what has been eating the basil. >I expected to see earwigs, but instead there were millions >(well, lots) of brown beetles, about 1/4" in length, merrily >chomping away. Were they the same size as a Japanese beetle, but dull coppery- brown in color? If so, gawd, I *HATE* these little buggers... We first noticed them two years ago, and now they destroy many plants in our gardens; their favs this year seem to be (roughly in order) mums, basil, pepper greens, peony leaves, carrot greens, sage and marigolds. They especially *love* it when you mulch; gives 'em more to hide under. Whatever they are, they're nocturnal and like to spend their days burrowed shallowly under the soil around the base of their victims. Try heavily watering around your plants, watching the soil the while -- I bet you see dozens & dozens come scrambling out. (And many more dozens holding their breath and not coming out...) Last year we used some variant of Toxic-Liqui-Death on the perennial flowers, and hand-picked the damn things out of the herbs and veggies. This year I've had it, and am going to try a rotenone/pyrethrin mix there. (Spraying all the affected beds with nematodes late last summer hasn't seemed to make a dent in the population this year; I guess there's plenty flying in from elsewhere.) Gotta identify these suckers... ("Know thy enemy") >but there hasn't been a lot to harvest. We sprayed the >plants with water and dish detergent, but when we went >out again at 11, the evil pests were back. Help! Like I said, if you have the patience, try watering around the base of each plant. Squish the ones that burrow out. Lightly stir the ground some more with a stick, and squish the smarter ones as they burrow out. :-) Curse them loudly. If you're less patient, the next day soak the ground within the "drip line" around the plants with your choice of Chemical Death -- it really does seem as though most of the ones you find on a plant by night were sleeping right at hand by day... Anyone know of this is a pest that's always been around, or is it something new? -- "I feel lightheaded, Sam. I think my brain | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com is out of air. But it's kind of a neat | /HP/org/chart/says/you/are/here feeling..." --Freelance Police | Massachusetts Language Lab From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!rational.com!bonnie!rlk Sat Jul 24 12:27:58 EDT 1993 Article: 19743 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!rational.com!bonnie!rlk From: rlk@bonnie.Rational.COM (Robert Kitzberger) Subject: Re: Fly Maggots & Compost Message-ID: Keywords: Try Vermiculture Sender: news@rational.com Organization: Rational References: Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 20:53:35 GMT Lines: 21 nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA) writes: >For those of you who appear to use a lot of kitchen scraps (non-meat) you >might look into vermiculture instead of composting. I saw this at a >composting workshop in a community garden. Basically what you need is a >proper box and a bunch of redworms (this is specific, not the worms from >your yard). As a great byproduct you get wormcastings to add to your >yard and garden. I'm curious: how do you separate the worms from the castings? Does the box magically do this for you? I keep having mental images of sticking a shovel into a box teeming with worms... and I thought turning compost in a box was tricky ;-) .Bob. -- Bob Kitzberger Internet: rlk@rational.com Rational, Grass Valley, CA CompuServe: 70743,1550 "Man is a rational animal who always loses his temper when he is called upon to act in accordance with the dictates of reason." -- Oscar Wilde From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.crd.ge.com!sunblossom!knight.vf.ge.com!news.ge.com!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:27:59 EDT 1993 Article: 19744 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.crd.ge.com!sunblossom!knight.vf.ge.com!news.ge.com!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Yogurt cups was: Egg-cartons as seed trays Message-ID: Keywords: egg-cartons Organization: Megatest Corporation References: Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 17:30:57 GMT Lines: 32 In article ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) writes: >I've tried to use egg-cartons to start seeds in. Here's how I fared. (various problems Ceci had deleted) >problem even to a not so experienced gardener. My only conclusion is > > DON'T USE EGG-CARTONS TO START SEEDS IN. > >They belong in the compost. Shredded. > >--Ceci, one experience richer. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who has been tempted to try... I agree with your advice. However, since I'm always looking for ways to re-use stuff, let me recommend yogurt cups as seed starters. I poke holes in the bottom, fill with plant mix/vermiculite and about 6 to 12 seeds per cup. They are easy to mark with a sharpie and store nicely in a try on my patio table. They also can be used to "pot up" the seedlings when they get big enough. This year someone who saved cups for me (I get my kids to eat a lot of yogurt in spring, but I planted a lot this year) saved a type (Dannon?) that had clear plastic lids. The lids were terrific! I got a better, faster germination rate than the uncovered ones. I also save 2 liter soft drink jugs as mini-greenhouses/earwig deterrents for my young transplants. --Kim Fisher -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!psuvm!cunyvm!rohvm1!rstj3m Sat Jul 24 12:27:59 EDT 1993 Article: 19745 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!psuvm!cunyvm!rohvm1!rstj3m Organization: Rohm and Haas Company Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 13:49:52 EDT From: JE McLaughlin Message-ID: <93193.134952RSTJ3M@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Figs: What Do I Do Next? Lines: 9 Can anyone tell me what to do with the figs after I grow them? Specifically, I'd like to know how to prepare the figs the same way you find them in the Italian deli: soft, chewy, w/ a sticky light brown syrup. Must you boil them? Dry them? Is the syrup natural sugar or added? What next? While we are at it, are there any recs for the best way to protect the tree in the harsh Philadelphian winter? I've heard blankets, house insulation, caging and adding tree leaves as insulation, tilting and burying the tree. What's best? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!chnews!ornews.intel.com!ichips!frx702!dcovell Sat Jul 24 12:28:00 EDT 1993 Article: 19746 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!chnews!ornews.intel.com!ichips!frx702!dcovell From: dcovell@frx702.intel.com (David Covell - EPG) Subject: Re: Need help in Pond design.. Message-ID: <1993Jul12.213740.10772@ichips.intel.com> Sender: news@ichips.intel.com (News Account) Organization: Intel Corporation References: <1993Jul9.171928.10312@brtph560.bnr.ca> <1993Jul12.125120.29228@julian.uwo.ca> <21sf5r$oql@news.bu.edu> Distribution: na Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 21:37:40 GMT Lines: 12 In article <21sf5r$oql@news.bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >I tried to e-mail this idea, but it failed. > >Lance suggested essentially wrapping the PVC around behind a couple of layers >of bricks then sandwiching the PVC between the top brick and a third layer >to protect the PVC from UV by either brick or water. > Better yet, don't use PVC at all. I used heavy-gauge butyl rubber for my waterfall; thicker/tougher than any PVC I've seen and much less UV-reactive. Cost me $50 for a 6' x 8' sheet at a local landscaping place that sells pond supplies. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!bert.eecs.uic.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Sat Jul 24 12:28:01 EDT 1993 Article: 19747 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!bert.eecs.uic.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, academic Computer Center Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 16:05:50 CDT From: Message-ID: <93193.160550U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RE: Cardinal Flowers References: <3693189.12032.27695@kcbbs.gen.nz> Lines: 23 Two places I know of which sell Lobelia cardinalis are: Little Valley Farm Route 3, Box 544 Snead Creek Road Spring Green, WI 53588 plants and seeds (& L. siphilitica) Genesis Nursery, Inc. RR 1, Box 32 Walnut, IL 61376 (815) 379-9060 seeds (& L. siphilitica) Both carry a large (GNI is larger) variety of native (Midwest) wildflowers. Hans Goeckner goeckner@uicws.phy.uic.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!bert.eecs.uic.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Sat Jul 24 12:28:01 EDT 1993 Article: 19748 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!bert.eecs.uic.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, academic Computer Center Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 16:25:18 CDT From: Message-ID: <93193.162518U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tree Nurserys (& more) Distribution: world References: <50.7163.1066.0N0012E1@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca> Lines: 18 A good tree nursery in the NW US is Bear Creek Nursery P.O.Box 411 Northport, WA 99157 It is run by Donna & Judson Hunter & family. They specialize in apple as well as other fruit and nut trees. In addition, they sell a wide variety of other plants, ranging from kiwi fruits to oregon grapes to thimbleberries to hops. Most (if not all) of their business is mail-order; their catalog is (I'm pretty sure) free. I have found their prices and quality to be good. Hans Goeckner goeckner@uicws.phy.uic.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Sat Jul 24 12:28:02 EDT 1993 Article: 19750 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, academic Computer Center Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 16:43:02 CDT From: Message-ID: <93193.164302U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Hummingbird attractors (was RE: bird pudding) References: <3693189.36635.1170@kcbbs.gen.nz> Lines: 23 According to the catalog of Genesis Nursery (RR. 1, Box 32, Walnut, IL 61376 some of the wildflowers which they sell (and surely others do as well) which attract hummingbirds are: Aquilegia canadensis wild columbine Astragalus canadensis Canada milkvetch Campsis radicans trumpet creeper Chelone glabra turtlehead Echinacea pallida pale (purple) coneflower Echinacea purpurea purple coneflower Lobelia cardinalis cardinal flower Monarda fistulosa bergamot Pedicularis canadensis wood betony Penstemon digitalis foxglove beardtongue Penstemon grandifloris large beardtongue Penstemon pallidus pale beardtongue Physostegia virginiana false dragonhead Many of these flowers are red or pink, but not all. I hope this is useful. Hans Goeckner goeckner@uicws.phy.uic.edu GO CARDS!!!!! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!not-for-mail Sat Jul 24 12:28:02 EDT 1993 Article: 19751 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!not-for-mail From: ksk02983@menudo.uh.edu (Kevin Scott Kujawa) Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Subject: Peppers: :( --> :) Date: 12 Jul 1993 18:18:15 -0500 Organization: University of Houston, Computer Science Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: menudo.uh.edu Keywords: pepper peppers jalapeno serrano cyanne Mexican Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:443 rec.gardens:19751 Hello USA, I have seen a lot of talk on peppers, yet I haven't really read too many postings. Now, I have just recently "harvested" some of my pepper plants (jalapeno, serrano, cyanne) and WOW! they're HOT!!! What do you do if you think you're a Mexican (like my ex GirlFriend) and eat some?? She was ok, and eats them everyday -- but I ate one and thought I was going to die! It took about thirty minutes before I could even open my eyes. I tried milk, jello and iced water, but no help. (DO NOT try to brush your teeth.) So, if you try to be macho and eat peppers like a Mexican, how do you survive? My mouth thanks you... Kevin Scott Kujawa, University of Houston, Computer Science. PS: Don't pick your nose. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:03 EDT 1993 Article: 19752 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: sci.bio,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Stoney pitted fruits Message-ID: <1993Jul12.182753.14666@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 12 Jul 93 18:27:53 -0600 References: <21khca$mvi@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <21khej$n2t@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <21n02l$fqc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 24 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu sci.bio:9714 rec.gardens:19752 In article <21n02l$fqc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks) writes: > Is it true that the pits of fruits such as peaches, plums, necterines, etcs. > contain a small amount of a cyanogenic compund such a cyanide? > If so, how much? How many pits would one have to consume before he > has a lethal dosage? Hm, this one is almost a rec.gardens FAQ ;-) Yes, most of the stone- fruits have small amounts of cyanogenic glycosides in the seeds (not in the stony endocarp surrounding the seed). These glycosides can be broken down by enzymes or acid to give HCN and a sugar and often something else (like benzaldehyde). How much per pit depends on the genotype of the plant, and the environmental conditions. How many you can eat depends on amount of cyanogenic glycoside, your body size, and your susceptibility. Other plants with cyanogenic glycosides include: sorghum Manihot esculenta (cassava, tapioca) Lotus corniculatus (birdsfoot trefoil) Trapa nutans (water chestnut) commercial bamboo sprouts and many, many more.... Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet Sat Jul 24 12:28:03 EDT 1993 Article: 19753 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet From: farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Insect Deterents? Date: 13 Jul 93 01:02:32 GMT Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville Lines: 50 Message-ID: References: <211ql8$1s3@meaddata.meaddata.com> <1993Jul2.203130.23834@casbs.Stanford.EDU> <21fhrh$4ha@news.bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: utkcs2.cs.utk.edu In article <21fhrh$4ha@news.bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >Just the other day on the local (Boston) news, they did a piece on mosquito >repellants. > >Use Cutter's or some other product with about 30-33% DEET. Period. Use >as directed (lightly), and do not get it in your eyes. Wash from palms. > >Skin-so-Soft (the scientists doing the research said) works BUT only for >from 5-15 minutes. NOT worth the investment. (My personal experience will >support this, by the way -- I get REAL bites from mosquitoes!!) > My personal experience is just the opposite. Skin-so-soft is the *only* thing I have ever found that will keep the little beggers off me. All insect repellant does is scream HERE SHE IS to the skeeters. I find it effective for several hours, too. If you suffer from mondo bites (i.e. if you get a huge red swollen knot that makes you look like the looser in a fight with a baseball bat), my allergist told me (that's a prostaglandin reaction and shots won't help BTW) as soon as you get bit, wet an aspirin and place on the spot (usually makes a little water-blister ... that's the histamine reaction (so much for the immunology lesson)), and it won't swell up so bad. It works!! If you can take Ibuprofin (or other nsaid of your choice they will help too ... they're prostaglandin inhibitors) or aspirin internally as well it can help. What I carry with me *all* the time is a tube of Aspercreme (tm). Yes, I know the tube says "aspirin-free", but that's a real tacky technicality. Aspercreme has salicyllic acid rather than acetyl-salicyllic acid in it. The pharmacist told me about it when I asked if he could grind me some asprin-cream. Good luck. Susan P.S. on a related note, I'm growing plants in water ... outside ... so I have my very own mosquito farm on the front porch. (With the drought, they do better in the water than in the dry dirt). Will it hurt the plants if I put some oil on top of the water to keep the skeeters from breeding? Susan -- Susan B. Farmer farmer@cs.utk.edu Lady Jerusha Kilgore I can't even find time to clean house and you want me to come up with a .sig? B.A. in Computer Science ... Graduate Student in Botany From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet Sat Jul 24 12:28:04 EDT 1993 Article: 19754 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet From: farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bouquet vases Date: 13 Jul 93 01:09:40 GMT Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville Lines: 28 Message-ID: References: <1993Jul12.144603.20378@icf.hrb.com <21sduq$rhi@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: utkcs2.cs.utk.edu In article <21sduq$rhi@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) writes: >Question related to vases. How to clean clear glass ones?? > >I have three antique medicine bottles for cut flowers on the >kitchen window sill. They get scummy with green algae or something. >I've tried boiling water, baking soda with vinegar, detergent..; >none works to completely clean the bottles. > >Any suggestions--short of hydrochloric acid (which I don't keep at >home)! > > >JH Fill the vase with vinegar and add salt. See vinegar is an organic acid and the addition of the salt does (much mystic hand waving here) nifty chemical things to make the acid stronger. I used to know, but I had Organic Chemistry in 1974 (?). It works, I use it all the time. Handed down in the family, even. Susan -- Susan B. Farmer farmer@cs.utk.edu Lady Jerusha Kilgore I can't even find time to clean house and you want me to come up with a .sig? B.A. in Computer Science ... Graduate Student in Botany From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!titan.arc.ab.ca!falk Sat Jul 24 12:28:05 EDT 1993 Article: 19755 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!titan.arc.ab.ca!falk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: GREAT gardening book! Message-ID: <1993Jul12.124024.1@titan.arc.ab.ca> From: falk@titan.arc.ab.ca Date: 12 Jul 93 12:40:24 MDT References: <21l4ub$4r1@dorsai.dorsai.org> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: titan.arc.ab.ca Lines: 35 In article <21l4ub$4r1@dorsai.dorsai.org>, dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) writes: > My wife just picked up what appears to be a WONDERFUL reference book on > organic gardening! It is; > > Rodale's All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening > > It states that it is a companion to the PBS show "Your Organic Garden" which I > finally saw down here. The show is humorous, and yet has lots of information > and the host seems to like gardening. I would equate it for gardeners like > "The Frugal Gourment" is for cooks. > > Anyway...the book is 690 pgs and can probably be found for between $17.00 and > $20.00. Needless to say, I was impressed by it BUT if any of you aren't I'd > love to hear why not. > It's $34 or $40 in Canada. My wife got it on trial but we sent it back. It looked pretty good if 1) you don't already own a general-purpose gardening book 2) you live in regions well-covered by the book. This excludes anything north of 49 degrees, and I don't think it would be much help in Montana, or North Dakota either. The "Organic" part is bogus. I think our other general-purpose books cover "organic" issues just as well, even if they do give equal time to dreaded chemicals. This is sounding awfully negative. I really do think it is quite good if you meet the above conditions. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Alfred Falk falk@arc.ab.ca A L B E R T A Information Systems Dept R E S E A R C H Box 8330, Station F C O U N C I L Edmonton, Alberta, Canada T6H 5X2 (403) 450-5185 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!tera.com!news Sat Jul 24 12:28:05 EDT 1993 Article: 19757 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!tera.com!news From: mfb@tera.com (Mark Beauchamp) Subject: Yellow Antherium? Message-ID: <1993Jul12.222612.1172@tera.com> Sender: news@tera.com (News Administrator) Reply-To: mfb@tera.com Organization: Tera Computer Company, Seattle, WA Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 22:26:12 GMT Lines: 26 Hi, My roommate is what you might call an 'antheriaphile' and enjoys collecting and growing antheria of various types and plummage. He saw a reference once to an antherium with yellow blossoms, but none of the growers we've talked to have heard of such a thing. "Perhaps you saw a skunk cabbage?" :-) So I turn to the net. There are various shades of pink, red, purple, white, green and even orange blooming antheria. Has anyone ever heard of an antherium with yellow blooms? If so, do you know the species/hybrid name and a possible source? Thanks! -Mark -- Mark Beauchamp, mfb@tera.com Vc 206.548.9405 Fx 206.545.4564 Tera Computer Company From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!news!news.world.net!guardian.up.edu!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!sweiger Sat Jul 24 12:28:06 EDT 1993 Article: 19758 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!news!news.world.net!guardian.up.edu!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!sweiger From: sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger) Subject: Re: Figs: What Do I Do Next? References: <93193.134952RSTJ3M@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> Message-ID: <1993Jul13.002753.18509@sequent.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: eng2.sequent.com Sender: usenet@sequent.com (usenet ) Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc. Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 00:27:53 GMT Lines: 21 In article <93193.134952RSTJ3M@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> JE McLaughlin writes: > >While we are at it, are there any recs for the best way to protect the tree in >the harsh Philadelphian winter? I've heard blankets, house insulation, caging >and adding tree leaves as insulation, tilting and burying the tree. What's >best? Loosen the soil and roots on one side of the tree and carefully bend it down and bury it with a mound of dirt after it has lost all it of its leaves and you have gone through a few frosts to get the sap down to the roots. Mulch the mound. Dig up when hard freeze danger has past in the spring. Another way to do this is to put the fig in a big pot *with casters*. Move the pot and the fig into a heated (40 degree or so) garage. Prune as necessary. -- phone: (503)578-4329 fax: (503)578-5730 internet: sweiger@sequent.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:06 EDT 1993 Article: 19759 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: STUMPED again! Message-ID: <1993Jul12.212839.14690@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 12 Jul 93 21:28:39 -0600 References: <1993Jul12.182825.1008@infonode.ingr.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 17 In article <1993Jul12.182825.1008@infonode.ingr.com>, dianne@dianne.b24a.ingr.com (Dianne Ferrans) writes: > > Could someone here outline the various options I have for removing > tree stumps, and the related costs/pros/cons? If you've got a couple of years, drill a bunch of deep holes in the top surface of the stump (an 18" long "airplane drill bit" is great for this) then go find some rotten wood someplace. Put the rotten wood in a blender with some water, and mix it up well. Pour the resulting concoction into the holes. If you live in a dry area, tarp the stump to keep the moisture high. After 18 months to 2 yrs, you can kick most stumps apart. I suppose you might be able to speed this up a bit by adding judicious amounts of high N fertilizer-- however, the neighborhood dogs always did this for us. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!amdahl!dlb!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:28:07 EDT 1993 Article: 19760 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!amdahl!dlb!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: EARWIG INVASION Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <21jute$pfa@terminator.rs.itd.umich.edu> Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 20:49:35 GMT Lines: 33 In article <21jute$pfa@terminator.rs.itd.umich.edu> Robert Drongowski writes: >Help!!! We live in Michigan, and for the past few years, earwigs have >increased >logarithmically, both near our garden and within our house. They don't >seem to >be destroying garden veggies, however, the are ruining my wifes >sanity within the house. Have people in other parts of the country >noticed an >increase in these delightful insects??? Any known way to keep them out >of home. >Are they at all beneficial in the garden??? Not in **MY** garden, they're not! I guess I must be pretty grouchy about these "horrible beasts" as they are known at the Fisher homestead, because they do a lot of damage. All the reference material I looked up didn't think they were too bad, and I think they help in the compost pile. In the last two years they seem to have worsened. I control them by nightime patrols (picking them off) keeping hiding places down to a minimum (newspaper/hose/etc traps don't work for me) but traps of cat food tins partly filled with cooking oil seem to help. For the house you might try the oil-trap routine. In addition to eating my plants, they "swarm" onto my front concrete porch and up the walls of the house! This is something like a scene from a bad horror movie, to me. The traps on the porch capture a lot of them, on and off. I haven't been able to figure out what triggers the lemming-like invasions, I've tried to pay attention to temperature, and time intervals, but I haven't figured out any connections yet. --Kim "earwig Bane" Fisher -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!decwrl!decwrl!csus.edu!netcom.com!jab Sat Jul 24 12:28:07 EDT 1993 Article: 19761 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!decwrl!decwrl!csus.edu!netcom.com!jab From: jab@netcom.com (Joyce Brendlinger) Subject: Re: EARWIG INVASION Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] References: <1993Jul13.013847.23223@bnr.ca> Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 05:02:57 GMT (organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) Lines: 11 (relevant postings deleted) We have them in California too. I didn't mind too much until I brought the morning paper in and one crawled out on the breakfast table! : i also recomment the bear trap - it works well too. I'm trying this one - Where do I rent the bear? ;) jb From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!CChristi Sat Jul 24 12:28:08 EDT 1993 Article: 19762 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!CChristi Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Big pinecone seed source requested Message-ID: <1993Jul13.051621.7440@massey.ac.nz> From: CChristi@massey.ac.nz (C.B. Christie) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 05:16:21 GMT Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c Lines: 13 Hi there netters, Does anyone have any idea wherew to obtain a few seeds of Pinus coulteri; the pine with the great big cones. Thanks very much Bruce Christie Department of Plant Science, Massey University Palmerston North, New Zealand email: C.B.Christie@massey.ac.nz From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mnemosyne.cs.du.edu!nyx!mhatz Sat Jul 24 12:28:08 EDT 1993 Article: 19763 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mnemosyne.cs.du.edu!nyx!mhatz From: mhatz@nyx.cs.du.edu (Pathfinder) Subject: Grasshoppers ARGGHH!!&^%%$# Message-ID: <1993Jul13.051543.17233@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> Sender: usenet@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu (netnews admin account) Organization: University of Denver, Dept. of Math & Comp. Sci. Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 05:15:43 GMT Lines: 10 Looking for a nice preferably organic pet safe way to get rid of grasshoppers tearing up my backyard with their munching. Thanks! Mike ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- NYX! Land of Public Access UNIX. Kinda like Public Access TV Channel-10 in Aurora, Illinois Home of Wayne's World! "grep on Wayne!" "pipe on Garth!" nyx.cs.du.edu University of Denver Denver, Colorado From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Sat Jul 24 12:28:09 EDT 1993 Article: 19764 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Roses:Fungus control Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 05:41:02 GMT Message-ID: <26546@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 13 I am growing my roses without using any pesticides or herbicides and I would very much like to hear from other people who are trying the same approach. I would particularly like to know what methods you use for controlling the fungal stuff- black spot and powdery mildew in particular, and how effective you feel these methods have been. Have you tried garlic? horsetail? baking powder? How important is just "biting the bullet" and only growing resistant varieties to your way of thinking? What cultural practices to you think are important? The majority of the rose books are absolutely awash in chemical sprays and I know there must be other answers and other experimenters out there. Thanks for your help. -Moira Carlson From samba.oit.unc.edu!gibbs!rosinia Sat Jul 24 12:28:09 EDT 1993 Article: 19765 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!gibbs!rosinia From: rosinia@gibbs.oit.unc.edu (James Rosinia) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,triangle.gardens Subject: just dry? Date: 13 Jul 93 11:39:17 GMT Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill Lines: 23 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: gibbs.oit.unc.edu Keywords: discolored azalea leaves Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:19765 triangle.gardens:152 Well, it's stupid question time again from a neophyte gardener -- and this time it's probably a REALLY stupid question. We've got some good size, well-established azaleas. I've noticed recently that a number of leaves are yellowing. Some are yellow around the perimeter with green in the center and others are more or less totally yellow. Is this just because they're just too damned dry? We've been watering them, but maybe we're not soaking them enough. . . . We moved into this house late last summer and did nothing in the way of fertilizing them last fall or this spring. Is that a contributing factor? Any other tips about gardening in this ungodly heat? Do we dare plant some hostas that we got just before it got really hot but that we haven't had time to plant? Should we daily water some other plants that we did plant before the heat hit -- some ferns, pieris japonica (sp?), and foam flowers? As you shake your head, let me confirm your worst suspicions -- we're a couple of former city kids who are trying to learn about gardening in a hurry. Thank you, thank you, thank you for your suggestions. jim_rosinia@unc.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Sat Jul 24 12:28:10 EDT 1993 Article: 19766 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Roses:Fungus control Date: 13 Jul 1993 11:53:03 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 34 Message-ID: <21u7mv$3ge@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <26546@mindlink.bc.ca> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) says: >I am growing my roses without using any pesticides or herbicides and I would >very much like to hear from other people who are trying the same approach. I >would particularly like to know what methods you use for controlling the >fungal stuff- black spot and powdery mildew in particular, and how effective >you feel these methods have been. Have you tried garlic? horsetail? baking >powder? How important is just "biting the bullet" and only growing resistant >varieties to your way of thinking? >What cultural practices to you think are important? >The majority of the rose books are absolutely awash in chemical sprays and I >know there must be other answers and other experimenters out there. >Thanks for your help. >-Moira Carlson Garlic?? Never heard of that technique. Anyway, to treat fungal infections without resorting to polysyllabic megadeath mixtures, the tried and true approach is to use lime/sulfur dust or spray. You garden will smell like Hell's waiting room for a couple of days, but the stuff does work. Don't try it on rugosas; their leaves seem sensitive to almost any spray, but then rugosas are pretty resistant to fungal attack anyway--at least mine are. Lime/sulfur dust is widely available. Orthrix is a proprietary lime/sulfur liquid concentrate. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * HYPERTEXT--A late twentieth century mystery cult. A-B College * Its devotees experienced the illusion of creativity. Philippi, WV * Patron saint-- Our Lady of Permutations. * --THE DEVIL'S DICTIONARY, REVISED EDITION From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news Sat Jul 24 12:28:10 EDT 1993 Article: 19767 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news From: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey) Subject: Re: Need help in Pond design.. Reply-To: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Organization: University of Western Ontario Distribution: na Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 12:46:59 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul13.124659.3075@julian.uwo.ca> References: <1993Jul12.213740.10772@ichips.intel.com> Sender: news@julian.uwo.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: cupoftea.ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Lines: 28 In article <1993Jul12.213740.10772@ichips.intel.com> dcovell@frx702.intel.com (David Covell - EPG) writes: >In article <21sf5r$oql@news.bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >>I tried to e-mail this idea, but it failed. >> >>Lance suggested essentially wrapping the PVC around behind a couple of layers >>of bricks then sandwiching the PVC between the top brick and a third layer >>to protect the PVC from UV by either brick or water. >> >Better yet, don't use PVC at all. I used heavy-gauge butyl rubber for my >waterfall; thicker/tougher than any PVC I've seen and much less UV-reactive. >Cost me $50 for a 6' x 8' sheet at a local landscaping place that sells >pond supplies. please ensure that the rubber won't leech out toxic stuffs and kill the plants and fish. for my pond i was all set to use an old swimming pool liner but i was told that they were toxic. pressure treated wood IS toxic. take a look at the instructions on what to wear if you work with it -- gloves, long sleeves/pants, masks... ick. so i wouldn't want it in the pond -- just in case. -- Lance R. Bailey System/Network Manager Robarts Research Institute NeXT/email: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca box: Clinical Trials Resources Group fax: +1 519 663 3789 P.O. Box 5015, 100 Perth Dr. vox: +1 519 663 3787 x4108 London, Canada N6A 5K8 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!actcnews!sun1x!bswn.res.utc.com!winterbs Sat Jul 24 12:28:11 EDT 1993 Article: 19768 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!actcnews!sun1x!bswn.res.utc.com!winterbs From: winterbs@ist.res.utc.com (Bruce S. Winters) Subject: Transplanted Dogwood tree not doing to well.. Message-ID: Lines: 12 Sender: news@sun1x.res.utc.com Nntp-Posting-Host: 192.19.33.90 Organization: United Technologies Research Center X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev Final Beta #7] Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 13:37:56 GMT We transplanted a Dogwood tree this spring and it is not taking the move to well. Its about 20 feet tall. We moved it just before it bloomed. I've been watering it fathfuly but the leaves are curling up and some are brown around the edges. I haven't fertilized it yet except for the horse manure I mixed with the soil before moving it. It gets full sun all day. Any suggestions? Will it do better next year? Bruce S. Winters BSW@utrc.utc.com United Technologies Research Center E. Hartford Ct. USA From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!icf.hrb.com!jek Sat Jul 24 12:28:11 EDT 1993 Article: 19769 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!icf.hrb.com!jek From: jek@icf.hrb.com (Joseph E. Karolchik) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: EARWIG INVASION Message-ID: <1993Jul13.083643.20381@icf.hrb.com> Date: 13 Jul 93 08:36:42 EST References: <21jute$pfa@terminator.rs.itd.umich.edu> Organization: HRB Systems, Inc. Lines: 28 I only get grossed out by earwigs when I find them in places that I'm not expecting.... like my COFFEE CUP! But for a really gross picture, read on: My friends lived in a mobile home park which was built on an old farm. It's a pretty nice place (all things considered) even though their next door neighbors were kind of, uhm,...white trash. Anyhow, they kept having these earwig problems in their trailer. They would find half a dozen or so at a time here and there. They couldn't figure out any explanation except that the neighbors must have been doing something to attract many many creatures. (I would've expected roaches before earwigs, though) So, one day my friend was working outside the trailer doing some basic repairs, and he happened to hit the side of the trailer with a hammer near the foundation. A bunch of earwigs fall out of the skirting. Well being the curious type, my friend decided to look in under the trailer in the crawl space. (Is this predictable? Can you hear the psycho music yet?) From the description, it must have been the place where every earwig in the entire universe is created before moving into your neighborhood. They have since moved to a better nieghborhood where they now have barrel bugs and spiders instead. Joe Karolchik State College, PA From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!dptspd!tamsun.tamu.edu!venus.tamu.edu!j0m1742 Sat Jul 24 12:28:12 EDT 1993 Article: 19770 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!dptspd!tamsun.tamu.edu!venus.tamu.edu!j0m1742 From: j0m1742@venus.tamu.edu (MANHART, JAMES) Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Date: 13 Jul 1993 08:51 CDT Organization: Texas A&M University, Academic Computing Services Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <13JUL199308510878@venus.tamu.edu> References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: venus.tamu.edu Keywords: pepper peppers jalapeno serrano cyanne Mexican News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:449 rec.gardens:19770 In article <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu>, ksk02983@menudo.uh.edu (Kevin Scott Kujawa) writes... > >So, if you try to be macho and eat peppers like a Mexican, how >do you survive? > >My mouth thanks you... > You have to remember that your Mexican friends have probably been eating hot peppers their whole lives. You can build up resistance by starting out slowly, put some jalapenos (relatively mild as far as peppers go) in your pizza. Actually, I haven't found anything that jalapenos are not good in yet, including just about any kind of sandwich. You will probably never be able to keep up with your Mexican friends unless you are willing to suffer, but at least you will provide them with some entertainment if you try. Jim Manhart, Dept. of Biology, Texas A&M University College Station, TX 77843-3258, (409) 845-3356, email: J-Manhart@TAMU.EDU (Internet) J0M1742@TAMVENUS (Bitnet) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!lwlutz Sat Jul 24 12:28:13 EDT 1993 Article: 19771 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!newstand.syr.edu!rodan.acs.syr.EDU!lwlutz From: lwlutz@rodan.acs.syr.EDU (Lowell W Lutz) Subject: Re: Fluorescent flower? Message-ID: <1993Jul13.092524.28530@newstand.syr.edu> Summary: plant ID - hairy grayish leathery leaves, 3/4" bright magenta flowers Keywords: plant ID - fuzzy grayish leaves, 3/4" fluorescent magenta flowers Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY References: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 09:25:24 EDT Lines: 15 In article moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) writes: >I had an interesting weed show up in my lawn - a plant with hairy grayish >leathery leaves, and smallish (3/4") magenta flowers. But the flowers >are really bright, they're not just magenta - they seem to be colored with >the fluorescent "day-glo" dye used for safety, kid's toys, etc. I've never >seen anything like it in nature. > >So my question is, whatizzit? > >-Mike I believe it could be Rose Campion. Is the flower stalk tall? We have a stand of them and they are beautifully bright this time of year. The grey-green foliage sets off the bright magenta flowers perfectly. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!news Sat Jul 24 12:28:13 EDT 1993 Article: 19772 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!news From: os2user@brdiller.houston.ibm.com (Barry Diller) Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Sender: news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 14:23:25 GMT Lines: 37 Reply-To: brdiller@vnet.ibm.com (Barry Diller) Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM. References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: brdiller.houston.ibm.com Organization: IBM Federal Sector Services Company, Houston, Texas X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v0.20 by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:450 rec.gardens:19772 In <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu>, ksk02983@menudo.uh.edu (Kevin Scott Kujawa) writes: > >Hello USA, > >I have seen a lot of talk on peppers, yet I haven't really >read too many postings. Now, I have just recently "harvested" >some of my pepper plants (jalapeno, serrano, cyanne) and WOW! >they're HOT!!! > >What do you do if you think you're a Mexican (like my ex GirlFriend) >and eat some?? She was ok, and eats them everyday -- but I >ate one and thought I was going to die! It took about thirty >minutes before I could even open my eyes. I tried milk, jello and >iced water, but no help. (DO NOT try to brush your teeth.) > >So, if you try to be macho and eat peppers like a Mexican, how >do you survive? > >My mouth thanks you... > >Kevin Scott Kujawa, University of Houston, Computer Science. > >PS: Don't pick your nose. > I've read that the stuff that makes jalapenoes hot is not water soluble, but it is soluble in alcohol and in fats/oils. The article I read this in suggested that you drink either milk or beer/wine to cool your mouth. Eating hot peppers is a skill, and one that you never really seem to master. I've been eating jalapenoes for years, and every now and then a particularly hot one will still light me up like a Christmas tree. Luckily, I keep a cold Corona and lime nearby, for medicinal purposes... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Barry R. Diller IBM Federal Sector Sevices Company EMail address: brdiller@vnet.ibm.com Houston, Texas USA From samba.oit.unc.edu!usenet Sat Jul 24 12:28:14 EDT 1993 Article: 19773 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!usenet From: Doug.Hemken@launchpad.unc.edu (Doug Hemken) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: "Noah's Garden", by Sara Stein Date: 13 Jul 1993 15:24:03 GMT Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service Lines: 31 Sender: Doug Hemken Message-ID: <21uk2j$b88@samba.oit.unc.edu> References: <21sge7$pgj@news.bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu Summary: ecological gardening I glanced through "Noah's Garden" in the bookstore, because I'm a strong advocate of more ecological gardening (among my many opinions). I agree with Sherry, Stein seems to be overly ambitious for what I can do, and I don't generally spend time reading garden books that I can't relate to. So I left "Noah's Garden" on the rack. In the last few years, the book on ecology and gardening that I have most enjoyed was Pollan's "Second Nature." His essays are nice because he describes what gardening meant to him as a child, and all the fine notions of ecological gardening he developed as a young man. But then he buys a country estate and tries to put some of his ecological fancies into practice. So the book ends up being the story of how he has come to a momentary compromise with both Nature around him and his cultural heritage. He is funny and clear, and sees gardening as a balancing act: a balance between the gardener, Society, and Nature. The one big disappointment I had with the book is that he never really takes a stab at describing what principles form the boundaries within which an acceptable compromise is to be found. I guess that's what I feel we need: boundaries, limits. Stein seems to me to be offering us another reason to garden: a purpose, a goal named diversity. That's fine for her, but I've already got more than enough reasons to garden. I need to decide how to garden ecologically given *my* reasons for gardening, not not garden for a whole new reason. -=> Doug Hemken -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!olmo.swarthmore.edu!annie Sat Jul 24 12:28:14 EDT 1993 Article: 19774 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!olmo.swarthmore.edu!annie From: Annie Fetter Subject: Re: Small Brown Beetles are Eating my Basil! Message-ID: X-Xxmessage-Id: X-Xxdate: Tue, 13 Jul 93 10:58:22 GMT Sender: news@cc.swarthmore.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: olmo.swarthmore.edu Organization: The Geometry Forum X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16 References: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 14:59:46 GMT Lines: 55 In article Steve Rehrauer, rehrauer@apollo.hp.com writes: > I wrote: > >(well, lots) of brown beetles, about 1/4" in length, merrily > >chomping away. > Were they the same size as a Japanese beetle, but dull coppery- > brown in color? If so, gawd, I *HATE* these little buggers... > That's the ones. Grrrrrrrrr.................. > We first noticed them two years ago, and now they destroy many > plants in our gardens; their favs this year seem to be (roughly > in order) mums, basil, pepper greens, peony leaves, carrot greens, > sage and marigolds. They especially *love* it when you mulch; > gives 'em more to hide under. Boy, this sure is the same thing. Basil, pepper greens, oregano, and they _must_ be the things that decimated the marigolds in the beginning of the season. > > Whatever they are, they're nocturnal and like to spend their days > burrowed shallowly under the soil around the base of their victims. > Try heavily watering around your plants, watching the soil the while > -- I bet you see dozens & dozens come scrambling out. (And many > more dozens holding their breath and not coming out...) Okay. I'll give that a try. > > Gotta identify these suckers... ("Know thy enemy") Well, we went to a well-stocked bookstore last night, and managed to find one pest book that I think identified them, though it didn't have a picture. The Asiatic brown beetle. The only method of getting rid of them the book suggested was an electronic trap, one of those things that the bugs fly into and get electrocuted. If our garden wasn't 80 yards from the house, we might try this. But it may help save the peppers and basil planted at the end of the house. Anybody ever use one of these things? > > Like I said, if you have the patience, try watering around > the base of each plant. Squish the ones that burrow out. > Lightly stir the ground some more with a stick, and squish > the smarter ones as they burrow out. :-) Curse them loudly. I've not noticed them after/during watering, but maybe we need to be more agitative! > > Anyone know of this is a pest that's always been around, or is > it something new? I didn't notice them last year, but I didn't plant basil last year, and the marigolds did fine. I was hoping for something ugly, nasty, and stupid, like slugs. -Annie From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnewsc!bermes Sat Jul 24 12:28:15 EDT 1993 Article: 19776 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnewsc!bermes From: bermes@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (Terry Bermes) Subject: Propagating hollyhocks Organization: AT&T Looney Bin Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 16:55:18 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 7 This year I intend to propagate some new hollyhocks from seed to that I can grow them where I want rather than simply letting the volunteers grow where they may. Does hollyhock seed require any kind of cold treatment before they'll germinate? Terry From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:15 EDT 1993 Article: 19777 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pink pansies turning bordeau! Message-ID: <1993Jul13.121141.14711@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 Jul 93 12:11:41 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 26 In article , ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) writes: > I have two store-bought pink pansies (Viola wittrockiana, probably > Ultima pink). A part of one plant now sports wine-red flowers. Some > flowers are a good deep bordeau, others are somewhere inbetween the > usual pale pink and the bordeau. I've checked, so it's not a seedling, > but actually _part_ of one of the original plants. > > My question is: Why? Why do some flowers change colour, and will this > happen to the rest of the plant, and will it happen to all plants? > I've ordered seed for Ultima Pink pansies, so I really want to know! Sounds like you've got a plant with a somatic mutation (a mutation that does not affect the pollen or ovules)... the whole part of the plant above where the mutation occured is likely to be affected, but nowhere else. Sometimes you'll see "mosaics" arising because of this-- things like plants with longitudinally striped leaves because the chloroplasts got left out of or turned off in some of the leaf cells. Sometimes you'll see an entire branch that's white (then the rest of the plant has to give it sugar). If you want the wine-colored flowers, you can probably make a cutting of the affected part of the plant and propagate it asexually. But your seedlings are likely to be plain pink... Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI (where it is raining yet again today) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:28:16 EDT 1993 Article: 19778 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv From: gwv@hemlock.cray.com (George Walter VandenBerghe) Subject: Re: Groundhog problem Message-ID: <1993Jul13.104646.2154@hemlock.cray.com> Originator: gwv@hemlock Lines: 28 Sender: gwv@hemlock (George Walter VandenBerghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: hemlock Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993Jul7.194615.11981@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> <962@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 13 Jul 93 10:46:46 CDT In article <962@smith.CHI.IL.US>, leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) writes: .. stuff deleted .. > Good luck. If he spots your vegetable garden, he can burrow under a > fairly deeply set fence. I suggest you consider moving. ***************************************************** Hey. It may not be that bad. "can burrow" and "will borrow" are two different concepts. I have stopped groundhogs with a 2' fence buried 3" in the ground for years. Usually one burrows under and gets a few veggies but then I just plug the hole with some of my mostly clay soil and water it to make it puddle. It then dries to concrete. The groundhogs in Plainsboro NJ and in Beltsville MD don't seem to be very persistant and this usually hinders them enough to look for an easier meal. I know they COULD burrow two feet under my fence, they just don't. (In 1982 before I built the fence, I was practically wiped out by groundhogs). I did have one old grizzlied groundhog chew a hole IN the chicken wire fence. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:16 EDT 1993 Article: 19779 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bouquet vases Message-ID: <1993Jul13.121637.14712@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 Jul 93 12:16:37 -0600 References: <1993Jul12.144603.20378@icf.hrb.com <21sduq$rhi@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 24 In article <21sduq$rhi@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) writes: > Question related to vases. How to clean clear glass ones?? > > I have three antique medicine bottles for cut flowers on the > kitchen window sill. They get scummy with green algae or something. > I've tried boiling water, baking soda with vinegar, detergent..; > none works to completely clean the bottles. Try straight chlorine bleach to kill the algae and bleach the remains. Leave it for a day or so (bleach is a good oxidizer, so it'll help loosen the guck up), then half-fill the bottle with sand and water and shake like crazy (this is presuming that you can't get a bottle brush inside). The real trick to keeping clear glass vases clean is to change the water every day. That way the bacteria and algae don't get a foothold on the glass. > Any suggestions--short of hydrochloric acid (which I don't keep at > home)! Well, I'd probably used NoChromix at the lab... ;-) Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:17 EDT 1993 Article: 19780 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Insect Deterents? Message-ID: <1993Jul13.123328.14715@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 Jul 93 12:33:28 -0600 References: <211ql8$1s3@meaddata.meaddata.com> <1993Jul2.203130.23834@casbs.Stanford.EDU> <21fhrh$4ha@news.bu.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 50 In article , farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: > In article <21fhrh$4ha@news.bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: > >Just the other day on the local (Boston) news, they did a piece on mosquito > >repellants. > > > >Use Cutter's or some other product with about 30-33% DEET. Period. Use > >as directed (lightly), and do not get it in your eyes. Wash from palms. > > > >Skin-so-Soft (the scientists doing the research said) works BUT only for > >from 5-15 minutes. NOT worth the investment. (My personal experience will > >support this, by the way -- I get REAL bites from mosquitoes!!) > > > > My personal experience is just the opposite. Skin-so-soft is the *only* thing > I have ever found that will keep the little beggers off me. All insect > repellant does is scream HERE SHE IS to the skeeters. I find it effective > for several hours, too. Skin so soft has never done a thing for me. I use "jungle juice" (ca. 95% DEET in alcohol), and carry a head net for field work. You can get neat little mesh suits that you can soak in DEET and wear -- I usually just douse a bandana and tie it around my neck so it hangs down over my back and protects the spots I can't swat... Skeeters are also attracted to floral fragrances, so you might want to go to scent-free toiletries in the summer... I switch from carnation to lemon about the time of the first hatch for wear in public. In the field, I never use scented toiletries. > If you suffer from mondo bites (i.e. if you get a huge red swollen knot > that makes you look like the looser in a fight with a baseball bat), ... Oh, good! Another botanist who shouldn't be, according to the allergists... > > P.S. on a related note, I'm growing plants in water ... outside ... so I > have my very own mosquito farm on the front porch. (With the drought, they > do better in the water than in the dry dirt). Will it hurt the plants if > I put some oil on top of the water to keep the skeeters from breeding? Probably won't, but it might if the roots are starved for oxygen. Guppies will eat larvae, as well as true 'mosquitofish', or you can try Bacillus thuringensis var. israeliensis, serotype H-14, which clobbers mosquitos and black flies. BTW, be extremely cautious about mosquito breeding ponds in areas where the Asian Tiger Mosquito is now spreading... it's an encephalitis carrier. Kay Klier From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!news Sat Jul 24 12:28:18 EDT 1993 Article: 19781 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,triangle.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!news From: Jerry Young Subject: Re: just dry? Message-ID: <1993Jul13.173829.4054@newsgate.sps.mot.com> X-Xxdate: Tue, 13 Jul 93 12:38:10 GMT Sender: news@newsgate.sps.mot.com Nntp-Posting-Host: 222.205.249.55 Organization: Motorola RISC Applications X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d24 References: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 17:38:29 GMT Lines: 41 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:19781 triangle.gardens:153 Sorry if this posting appears more than once, I'm having trouble with my newsreader. This sounds like chlorosis, or iron deficiency, and it is related to the alkalinity/acidity of your soil. Azaleas need an acid soil, and this is a time of year that chlorosis tends to show up. If yours is an alkaline soil that needs soil amendments (like ironite) to maintain the acidity, summer watering can complicate things because it leaches nutrients from the soil and if your soil is alkaline, your water is likely to be as well, also lowering the acidity. So here are some things to do. Check with a local nursery about general soil pH, and take in some leaves, just to verify that this is your problem. If your plants have been unattended for a while, you may need to add something to acidify the soil, and if it is bad, there are some foliar sprays that can help in the short term. Use compost, and over that put a heavy mulch. This retains water, helps acidify the soil naturally, and prevents nutrients from being leached. As far as the new plants go, be sure they are mulched and water then when they are dry (stick your finger down into the soil to test.) Your pieris may also need something to acidify the soil. It would be hard to say that you should water daily because of the many variables -- if you are in very sandy soil, you may need to water more often than if you have clay, sunny spots require more water than shady ones, some plants like to dry out a little, while others can't take it, etc. For this you might consider a guide to gardening for your area to be a good investment. I would probably plant the hostas, only because it is harder for me to keep plants alive in pots than in the ground. (Black pots are especially good for roasting roots.) Be sure to give them enough shade. And mulch. Jerry jerry_l_young@oakqm3.sps.mot.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco!rbtemp Sat Jul 24 12:28:18 EDT 1993 Article: 19782 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco!rbtemp From: rbtemp@stat.ncsu.edu (Andrew McIntyre) Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: <1993Jul13.171316.19561@ncsu.edu> Originator: rbtemp@esssc5.stat.ncsu.edu Sender: rbtemp@stat.ncsu.edu (*** R Berger temp 10) Organization: Statistics, NCSU References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> <1993Jul13.153339.9227@ichips.intel.com> Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 17:13:16 GMT Lines: 16 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:455 rec.gardens:19782 In a previous article, dcovell@frx702.intel.com (David Covell - EPG) writes: |> I spent some time in southern Mexico where the indians eat peppers like |> candy and the salsas glow in the dark; I was advised that I could build |> tolerance for hot foods by "cauterizing" my taste buds with massive amounts |> of salsa made from chile de arbol, a particularly nasty pepper. Didn't |> work... |> I'm convinced it's a genetic predisposition. Ahhhh, chile de arbol! One of my favorites... makes an excellent whole pepper sauce, and tastes better than cayenne for dried uses. It can be hot, indeed. As for genetic predisposition: My parents and my brother can't get within 2 feet of a jalapeno or they start burning. However, I love peppers and can't seem to get enough... Does this mean it's a recessive trait?? Andrew McIntyre From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!rtech!amdahl!key!not-for-mail Sat Jul 24 12:28:19 EDT 1993 Article: 19783 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!rtech!amdahl!key!not-for-mail From: vicky@key.amdahl.com (Vicky Tuite) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Try MILK cartons for seedlings! Date: 13 Jul 1993 11:45:14 -0700 Organization: Amdahl Advanced Systems, Fremont, CA Lines: 4 Message-ID: <21uvrq$ggk@mage.key.amdahl.com> References: <1993Jul12.134239.1@kosmos.wcc.govt.nz> NNTP-Posting-Host: mage.key.amdahl.com I cut up milk cartons and use them for row markers. I write on them with a Sharpie permanent marker. They last the whole season. vt From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hp-cv!hp-pcd!hpcvsnz!tomb Sat Jul 24 12:28:19 EDT 1993 Article: 19784 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hp-cv!hp-pcd!hpcvsnz!tomb From: tomb@lsid.hp.com (Tom Bruhns) Subject: Re: raccoons - help! Sender: news@hpcvsnz.cv.hp.com (News ) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 19:04:49 GMT Distribution: na References: <1993Jul12.103259.18440@julian.uwo.ca> Organization: Hewlett-Packard X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9.4] Lines: 22 Lance R. Bailey (zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca) wrote: : how can i stop raccoons from "playing" in the pond? : i built a 10" wall of bricks around the edge with the shallow shelf -- that : might help -- but it rained last night so i suspect the 'coons just stayed : in the trees, tonight we'll see if this helps. Heh, heh, heh. I saw a TV documentary on how coons have adapted to urban life. Seems like one favorite place to raise a family is on the smoke shelf just above a fireplace. Yes, _inside_ the chimney. The family-raising time is past the time most folk light up their fireplaces, so it's just pleasantly warm. The momma goes forraging for food by climbing up the inside of the chimney, then down the outside. From the video "footage" they had of this, I'd say they won't have _any_ trouble climbing your 10" wall if they want. And I surprised one crossing my back yard one evening before dusk, and he was up a tree very quickly. Mostly they stay in tunnels they dig in the hillside behind the house. Maybe some fish in the pond...piranha. ;-) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sat Jul 24 12:28:20 EDT 1993 Article: 19785 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Wintering Over Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 19:09:55 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 8 Can someone explain the term "wintering over", e.g., crops for wintering over, or "wintering over crops"? I sounds like it means a crop you grow during the winter, or ground cover you grow during the winter. Help, please... Thanks, Gary Hypes From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins Sat Jul 24 12:28:21 EDT 1993 Article: 19786 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins From: jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Insect Deterents? Date: 13 Jul 1993 20:42:56 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 32 Message-ID: <21v6oh$am@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <1993Jul2.203130.23834@casbs.Stanford.EDU> <21fhrh$4ha@news.bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: top.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) wr ites: >In article <21fhrh$4ha@news.bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) write s: > > > >Skin-so-Soft (the scientists doing the research said) works BUT only for > >from 5-15 minutes. NOT worth the investment. (My personal experience will > >support this, by the way -- I get REAL bites from mosquitoes!!) > > > >My personal experience is just the opposite. Skin-so-soft is the *only* thing >I have ever found that will keep the little beggers off me. All insect >repellant does is scream HERE SHE IS to the skeeters. I find it effective >for several hours, too. [...] >Good luck. > >Susan Thanks everyone for the advice on cleaning clear bottles. Here's my $.02's worth: Skin-so-soft really works for me too. Effective for a couple hours. I don't particularly like the smell of it, but between being rendered housebound or getting evening chores done in the garden... Avon calling... : From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!koriel!male.EBay.Sun.COM!ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM!shay Sat Jul 24 12:28:21 EDT 1993 Article: 19787 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!koriel!male.EBay.Sun.COM!ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM!shay From: shay@ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM (Shay Barsabe) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Roses and fungus Date: 13 Jul 1993 19:25:29 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Mt. View, Ca. Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: <21v279$mn2@male.EBay.Sun.COM> Reply-To: shay@ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM (Shay Barsabe) NNTP-Posting-Host: ebmandoc9.ebay.sun.com I use Safer's fungicide on roses. HOWEVER, when you go to purchase Safer's products READ THE LABELS carefully. Some of their stuff uses synthetics that I don't want in my garden. (In fact, the local nursery is sending some of Safer's products back to them for just that reason.) Nevertheless, the fungicide does the job. -- Shay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news Sat Jul 24 12:28:22 EDT 1993 Article: 19788 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news From: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey) Subject: Re: raccoons - help! Reply-To: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Organization: University of Western Ontario Distribution: na Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 19:40:32 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul13.194032.4129@julian.uwo.ca> References: Sender: news@julian.uwo.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: cupoftea.ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Lines: 26 In article tomb@lsid.hp.com (Tom Bruhns) writes: >Lance R. Bailey (zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca) wrote: > >: how can i stop raccoons from "playing" in the pond? >: i built a 10" wall of bricks around the edge with the shallow shelf -- that > >Heh, heh, heh. I saw a TV documentary on how coons have adapted to >urban life.... I'd say they >won't have _any_ trouble climbing your 10" wall if they want. oh i fully realize they'll jump up and down and sing 'coon songs as they dance along it. the idea is that once on the wall, they won't be able to reach the water unless they dive in. and while i'm quite sure they can dive in, i suspect that they won't do that. hey, this is what the garden centre suggested -- i'll try anything once. >Maybe some fish in the pond...piranha. ;-) this has been given *serious* consideration... -- Lance R. Bailey System/Network Manager Robarts Research Institute NeXT/email: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca box: Clinical Trials Resources Group fax: +1 519 663 3789 P.O. Box 5015, 100 Perth Dr. vox: +1 519 663 3787 x4108 London, Canada N6A 5K8 Nature abhors a vacuum, and so does my cat. -- Mike W. Miller From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!nwnexus!immunex!rousseaua Sat Jul 24 12:28:22 EDT 1993 Article: 19789 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!nwnexus!immunex!rousseaua From: rousseaua@immunex.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Stoney pitted fruits Message-ID: <1993Jul13.102349.99@immunex.com> Date: 13 Jul 93 10:23:49 PST References: <21khca$mvi@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <21khej$n2t@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <21n02l$fqc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <1993Jul12.182753.14666@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: Immunex Corporation, Seattle, WA Lines: 16 In article <1993Jul12.182753.14666@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > In article <21n02l$fqc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks) writes: >> Is it true that the pits of fruits such as peaches, plums, necterines, etcs. >> contain a small amount of a cyanogenic compund such a cyanide? >> If so, how much? How many pits would one have to consume before he >> has a lethal dosage? I remember from my days as a girl on the farm that wilted cherry leaves were said to be fatal to livestock. Urban legend (or is that "rural legend" :))? I remember being puzzled that fresh leaves and dried leaves were not warned against. Perhaps the wilted leaves contained more concentrated amounts of cyanogenic stuff, while the toxins were broken down by the time the leaves were actually dried. Has anyone else heard this? --Anne-Marie Rousseau e-mail: rousseaua@immunex.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:23 EDT 1993 Article: 19790 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: compost help Message-ID: <1993Jul13.150233.14724@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 Jul 93 15:02:33 -0600 References: <1993Jul1.113431.14386@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul5.104437.20387@bradford.ac.uk> <1993Jul6.163119.14514@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul10.235450.6547@wkuvx1.bitnet> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 17 In article <1993Jul10.235450.6547@wkuvx1.bitnet>, cabanrf@wkuvx1.bitnet writes: > In article <1993Jul6.163119.14514@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: regarding aerating compost by burying perforated pipes... >> All I can tell you is that it works for me... and it's a lot easier on my >> back than all the turning was... I step on the ends of the pipes >> occasionally to sort of lift the mass a bit, and tarp to keep the >> moisture relatively constant. > > How big a PVC pipe are you using? Stepping on the end of a 1/2 in pipe > will just bend the pipe (or break it). OTOH, if it's lateral line > pipe I can see this working. about 1.5" diam is the smallest I have -- and it goes up from there. Don't know what lateral line pipe is-- mine is all reclaimed from dumpsters ;-) Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet Sat Jul 24 12:28:24 EDT 1993 Article: 19791 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet From: farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Transplanted Dogwood tree not doing to well.. Date: 13 Jul 93 20:27:25 GMT Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville Lines: 26 Message-ID: References: <1993Jul13.144847.7543@ichips.intel.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: utkcs2.cs.utk.edu In article <1993Jul13.144847.7543@ichips.intel.com> dcovell@frx702.intel.com (David Covell - EPG) writes: >In article winterbs@ist.res.utc.com >(Bruce S. Winters) writes: >>We transplanted a Dogwood tree this spring and it is not taking the move to >>well. Its about 20 feet tall. We moved it just before it bloomed. I've been >>watering it fathfuly but the leaves are curling up and some are brown around >>the edges. I haven't fertilized it yet except for the horse manure I mixed >>with the soil before moving it. It gets full sun all day. Any suggestions? > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >I'd say the problem's right there; dogwoods like dappled shade rather than >full sun. Consider their natural environment: underneath a canopy of taller >firs, pines, etc. Curling and/or browning leaves on a dogwood or japanese Huh? Dogwoods don't like full sun? Funny, someone better tell that to the dogwoods around here (Knoxville, home of the Dogwood Arts Festiville). Most planted ones are put in full sun and they love it. Plus, they don't stand quite the risk of dogwood anthracnose that the ones in the shade do. Susan -- Susan B. Farmer farmer@cs.utk.edu Lady Jerusha Kilgore I can't even find time to clean house and you want me to come up with a .sig? B.A. in Computer Science ... Graduate Student in Botany From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!ico!carnes Sat Jul 24 12:28:24 EDT 1993 Article: 19792 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!ico!carnes From: carnes@ico.isc.com (Steve Carnes) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: deadheading salvia Message-ID: <1993Jul13.172758.18770@ico.isc.com> Date: 13 Jul 93 17:27:58 GMT Distribution: na Organization: Interactive Systems Corp., Boulder CO Lines: 11 We have a couple small blue salvia plants (annuals, I b'lieve) -- the tall blue spikes looked gorgeous in amongst the other mostly red and white flowers, but now they've faded and gone brown. Is there something I can do to get them to rebloom? I deadheaded the snapdragons the day before Kay Klier posted her "how not to deadhead snapdragons" epistle, and don't want to make similar mistakes. (Just like she said, however, the snapdragons eventually came back with about 2-3 times the number of new heads. Hmm, maybe that isn't such a bad strategy after all!) -- Steve Carnes carnes@ico.isc.com uucp: {ncar,nbires}!ico!carnes "It's fun to have fun, but you have to know how." - Dr. Seuss From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!world!news.kei.com!ssd.intel.com!chnews!ornews.intel.com!ornews!jlawlor Sat Jul 24 12:28:25 EDT 1993 Article: 19793 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!world!news.kei.com!ssd.intel.com!chnews!ornews.intel.com!ornews!jlawlor From: jlawlor@ptdi12.intel.com (Jay Lawlor ~) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: EARWIG INVASION Date: 13 Jul 93 13:39:30 Organization: Intel Portland Technology Development Lines: 16 Message-ID: References: <1993Jul13.013847.23223@bnr.ca> Reply-To: jlawlor@ptdcs2.intel.com NNTP-Posting-Host: ptdi12.intel.com In-reply-to: jab@netcom.com's message of Tue, 13 Jul 1993 05:02:57 GMT : i also recomment the bear trap - it works well too. Joyce> I'm trying this one - Where do I rent the bear? ;) Oh, I thought someone was referring one of those steel jaws traps for catching bears. Assuming you could make it sensitive enough to trigger on the weight of an earwig it would send the earwig sailing through the air over to your neighbor's yard. -- Jay Lawlor jlawlor@ptdcs2.intel.com Mailstop: AL4-57 Phone: (503) 642-8050 FAX: (503) 649-3996 ============================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!vm.cc.purdue.edu!MWORKMAN Sat Jul 24 12:28:26 EDT 1993 Article: 19794 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!vm.cc.purdue.edu!MWORKMAN From: MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu Subject: Need Help with Tomatoes Message-ID: <16C0ADD57.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Sender: news@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (USENET News) Organization: Purdue University X-Newsreader: NNR/VM S_1.3.2 Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 20:44:23 GMT Lines: 10 I am growing several Roma tomato plants. They seem to be doing very well and have large quantities of green tomatoes on them. No visible signs of problems with the plant. However, I noticed yesterday that a few of the tomatoes were starting to ripen. I looked at them and saw that the bottoms were black mush! It looked like someone had pounded them from the bottomside. The top of the tomato looked fine. Anyone have an idea what is wrong with my tomatoes? Thanks, Maggie From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:26 EDT 1993 Article: 19795 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Silica/Dried Flowers Message-ID: <1993Jul13.161523.14726@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 Jul 93 16:15:23 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 34 In article , eer@world.std.com (Eugene E Rosen) writes: > My friend PAT is not having good results using Silica to dry flowers. Are > other methods/products > better and is there a secret to it using Silica. I've used both silica gel and cream of wheat for drying flowers for museum work... the secret in getting good positional preservation is to work slowly and carefully, directing the flow of desiccant so that the petal is supported in position before you put anything on top of the petal. Then I microwave for a few seconds (how long depends on the mass of material), unbury a bit, check it for dryness, then either excavate or nuke it again. It's really trial and error. You need to get the flowers dry enough to hold their shape and not rot, but not so dry they get brittle. If you accidentally overdry, you can sometimes salvage the situation by letting the container with plants still in it sit in a humid place for a day or so. The desiccant can be used again and again, though you may have to dry it in an ordinary oven now and then, or sieve it to get out the broken bits of plants. You also must be very careful as you excavate the dried material... you can't just pour the desiccant off. I use artist's brushes, "chem lab spatulas", and an aspirator to remove the desiccant. There are a number of books on the subject, sometimes classed with the horticulture stuff and sometimes with the flower arranging stuff at the library. What specific problems is your friend having? Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!spunky.RedBrick.COM!bfoss Sat Jul 24 12:28:27 EDT 1993 Article: 19796 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!spunky.RedBrick.COM!bfoss From: bfoss@RedBrick.COM (Brad Foss) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: EARWIG INVASION Message-ID: <1993Jul13.180335.29606@RedBrick.COM> Date: 13 Jul 93 18:03:35 GMT References: <21jute$pfa@terminator.rs.itd.umich.edu> <16C06932A.TROUTMAN@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu> Sender: usenet@RedBrick.COM (Net News Account) Distribution: usa Organization: Red Brick Systems, Los Gatos, CA Lines: 25 In article den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) writes: >In article <16C06932A.TROUTMAN@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu> >TROUTMAN@vmd.cso.uiuc.edu writes: > >> One thing that might >>account for their increase is the absense of a natural preditor. >>Anyone know what that might be? > >I collect them quite often and feed them to my fish. So, I've found a >predator. My question is, how do I get the earwigs to jump in the tank >with the fish? > >>Leslie Troutman >>TROUTMAN@VMD.CSO.UIUC.EDU > >Dean Nelson >Lehigh University Computing Center At one time we had 5 white leghorn hens. I'd go into the coop, turn over their feed bowl, or the board it sat on. This would upset a nest of earwigs, and the chickens would go CRAZY. This was a real treat for them. Now that the drought is over out here, we have a growing earwig population. I'm ready to get another chick or two and let them roam the back yard. The eggs are good too! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv Sat Jul 24 12:28:28 EDT 1993 Article: 19797 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv From: nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA) Subject: Re: Worms (was Re: Bamboo) Message-ID: Sender: news@ohsu.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: 137.53.56.80 Organization: Oregon Health Sciences University References: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 21:45:54 GMT Lines: 34 In article ward@cs.uiuc.edu (Christ Ward) writes: >den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) writes: >>We visted some friends yesterday who had a stand of bamboo. They asked if >>we wanted some, and so we took some home. My question is, what kind of soil >>does bamboo like? It is tolerant of poor soil? Also, does it like sun, >>shade, or some of both? And, does it need a lot of water? >I know nothing of bamboo, except that it grows indoors in potting soil >(no direct sun light) at my SO's work. >>Right now I have it sitting in a pile of worm castings until I >>decide where to put it. We live about 50 miles north of Philadelphia, and >>our soil is pretty poor except where I've been adding a lot of compost, >>manure, and worm castings (I raise worms and have a good bit). >This is what I'm interested in. How do you grow worms? Is there a FAQ >on this? Thanks for any info. >ward Ward, I don't know if there is a FAQ on this, but a good reference is _Worms Eat My Garbage_ by Mary Appelhoff, Flower Press, 1982. Places I know of to get the (red)worms themselves include: Vermicast Products, Richard Matson, Portland, Oregon (503) 226-0816; Smith Worms, (800) 252-5133 (Georgia); and The Worm Concern, (805) 496-2872 (California) -Marsie Nufer (nuferv@ohsu.edu) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!ghirarde Sat Jul 24 12:28:28 EDT 1993 Article: 19798 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!ghirarde From: ghirarde@wam.umd.edu (Judith Ellen Ghirardelli) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Lobelia turning brown Date: 13 Jul 1993 22:00:46 GMT Organization: University of Maryland, College Park Lines: 42 Message-ID: <21vbae$di0@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: rac1.wam.umd.edu Hi! I am a newbie gardener. I just have a patio, so I am limited to window boxes, and have done well so far this year with a variety of annuals. I have numerous Lobelia, and they grew like crazy and had zillions of flowers. Well, now the flowers are fading, and the Lobelia are turning brown. Some are turning brown on the stems where the flowers are fading, some are brown all over (although i believe the heat wave here in DC fried *those* - these are in the front and get more sun), and some are just dandy. Before you ask, I have some that take sun, and some that take partial shade, and I have put them appropriately. So my question is, what am I doing wrong? I have just now started picking the faded blooms off, but since I have *zillions* this is quite a chore. When they start to fade, can I just take scissors and lop to tops off, or do I have to pick each flower off?? Any ideas about the browning?? I do suspect the heat has played a role, but I do water them every day to every other day. Drainage seems fine. No nefarious bugs, other than carpenter ants. I have done a little experiment in that some of the ones in the front that are more brown than green/blue I have chopped alot off to see if that helps. Some of the others that are more green/blue than brown, I have cut off the brown carefully. And yet others I have left alone. Is there a Lobelia expert out there in the net garden?? They are truly beautiful little plants, and they make the window boxes gorgeous (very english cottage romantic looking, IMO). Can someone help??? Much thanks in advance. Judy Ghirardelli -- "It's hard to be brave when you're a Very Small Animal." - Piglet From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!ahill Sat Jul 24 12:28:29 EDT 1993 Article: 19799 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!ahill From: ahill@boi.hp.com (Andy Hill) Subject: Re: EARWIG INVASION Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 22:01:45 GMT Reply-To: ahill@boi.hp.com References: <1993Jul13.013847.23223@bnr.ca> Organization: LaserJets by Bill & Dave X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9.4] Lines: 10 Jeff Hayes (jjhayes@nbrwh75.bnr.ca) wrote: > i also recomment the bear trap - it works well too. > Damn! Them's BIG earwigs ya'll got up in the Great White North! How bigs ya'll's GRASSHOPPERS? --- Andy Hill ahill@boi.hp.com (No longer in Texas, but still able to recognize a "stretch") From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.byu.edu!news.kei.com!ssd.intel.com!ichips!frx702!dcovell Sat Jul 24 12:28:30 EDT 1993 Article: 19800 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.byu.edu!news.kei.com!ssd.intel.com!ichips!frx702!dcovell From: dcovell@frx702.intel.com (David Covell - EPG) Subject: Re: Transplanted Dogwood tree not doing to well.. Message-ID: <1993Jul13.213030.24058@ichips.intel.com> Sender: news@ichips.intel.com (News Account) Organization: Intel Corporation References: <1993Jul13.144847.7543@ichips.intel.com> Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 21:30:30 GMT Lines: 33 In article farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: >In article <1993Jul13.144847.7543@ichips.intel.com> dcovell@frx702.intel.com (David Covell - EPG) writes: > >In article winterbs@ist.res.utc.com > >(Bruce S. Winters) writes: > >>We transplanted a Dogwood tree this spring and it is not taking the move to > >>well. Its about 20 feet tall. We moved it just before it bloomed. I've been > >>watering it fathfuly but the leaves are curling up and some are brown around > >>the edges. I haven't fertilized it yet except for the horse manure I mixed > >>with the soil before moving it. It gets full sun all day. Any suggestions? > > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > >I'd say the problem's right there; dogwoods like dappled shade rather than > >full sun. Consider their natural environment: underneath a canopy of taller > >firs, pines, etc. Curling and/or browning leaves on a dogwood or japanese > > >Huh? Dogwoods don't like full sun? Funny, someone better tell that to the >dogwoods around here (Knoxville, home of the Dogwood Arts Festiville). Most >planted ones are put in full sun and they love it. Plus, they don't stand >quite the risk of dogwood anthracnose that the ones in the shade do. > >Susan > That might be the case in your part of the country where the humidity is high in the summer but is definitely not true in dryer areas. Full sun and the absence of shelter from the hot winds quickly fry dogwoods, japanese maples, and other sensitive trees. There are millions of native dogwoods in the California foothills but I have never seen even one growing without the protection of taller trees. I've seen many attempts at growing them in unprotected areas and the few that don't die look pathetic all summer long. I have at least 10 gardening books at home and every one of them suggests planting dogwoods only in partial shade. I'm glad for your sake that you can do otherwise in Knoxville, but it's simply not the case in dryer areas. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!apple!mumbo.apple.com!gallant.apple.com!jeremy Sat Jul 24 12:28:30 EDT 1993 Article: 19801 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!apple!mumbo.apple.com!gallant.apple.com!jeremy From: jeremy@gallant.apple.com (Jeremy j. b. nguyen) Subject: Re: Can Peppers Cross-pollinate? Message-ID: <1993Jul13.212130.4330@gallant.apple.com> Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 21:21:30 GMT References: <1993Jun14.115703.1@vax.sonoma.edu> Organization: Apple Computer Inc. Lines: 4 We used to have a jalapeno next to a serrano, and after a while it seemed that we were getting "jalarrano"s and "serrapeno"s. I'm not a pro, though... -j From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!cunyvm!rmccu Sat Jul 24 12:28:31 EDT 1993 Article: 19802 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!cunyvm!rmccu Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems Date: Tuesday, 13 Jul 1993 11:29:21 EDT From: Robert Chambers Message-ID: <93194.112921RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Small Brown Beetles are Eating my Basil! References: Lines: 9 They are June bugs... real similar to japanese beetles except for coloring. They also wind up in those bag-a-bug (tm) traps if you set them out. They snap like popcorn between your fingers if you like to kill them that way. I leave the carcasses around for the ants to take home. They are voracious eaters and can denude plants overnight if there are enough of them. Sevin kills them real fast but it's not nearly as much fun as stomping them. Robert From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!massey.ac.nz!jvanzijl Sat Jul 24 12:28:31 EDT 1993 Article: 19803 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!massey.ac.nz!jvanzijl Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Roses:Fungus control Message-ID: From: J.VanZijll@massey.ac.nz (J van Zijll de Jong) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 22:17:02 GMT Sender: news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System) References: <26546@mindlink.bc.ca> Organization: School of Maths and Info Sciences, Massey University, NZ. Lines: 6 In article <26546@mindlink.bc.ca> Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) writes: >Subject: Roses:Fungus control >From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) >Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 05:41:02 GMT I have heard of baking soda being used for powdery mildew, but don't know how effective this is. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!tellab5!vpnet!smith!leah Sat Jul 24 12:28:32 EDT 1993 Article: 19805 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!tellab5!vpnet!smith!leah From: leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flower ID book (was: Cardinal Flowers) Message-ID: <970@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 12 Jul 93 17:52:49 GMT References: <3693189.12032.27695@kcbbs.gen.nz> Reply-To: leah@smith.UUCP (L.A.Z. Smith) Organization: R. H. E. Smith Corp., Wheeling, IL Lines: 11 In article <3693189.12032.27695@kcbbs.gen.nz> Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting) writes: >IN my book of 'What Flower is That' by Stirling Macoboy Can you please post publishing info for this book (publisher, date of publication, ISBN number), so I can see if it's available here? Thanks, Leah Smith leah@smith.chi.il.us From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!csc.ti.com!tilde.csc.ti.com!cauldron!epcot!drogers Sat Jul 24 12:28:32 EDT 1993 Article: 19806 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!csc.ti.com!tilde.csc.ti.com!cauldron!epcot!drogers From: drogers@epcot.spdc.ti.com (Daty Rogers) Subject: Re: Need Help with Tomatoes Message-ID: <1993Jul13.222805.9661@spdc.ti.com> Sender: usenet@spdc.ti.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: epcot Organization: TI Semiconductor Process and Design Center References: <16C0ADD57.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 22:28:05 GMT Lines: 27 In article <16C0ADD57.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu writes: >few of the tomatoes were starting to ripen. I looked at them and saw >that the bottoms were black mush! It looked like someone had pounded >them from the bottomside. > I've got Roma's myself, and they did the same thing. It's called blossom end rot, and is caused by "drought and drown" watering. I mulched mine heavily, and more closely watched my watering schedule, and they recovered fine. The mato's with rot will not recover, but the ones left that don't look much better. It seems with mine they all ripened at once, so now after a couple months with no mato's, they are coming out of my ears! I usually grow Cherry's, or Sweet Millions, and get a steady crop for 9 months. Is this syncronised ripening the way Roma's are? Another question, after my bumper early summer crops, I've usually severlly trimmed my mater's back to nubbins, and the regrowth would produce a great fall crop. I have mainly done this with the smaller mato's, will this work with Roma's? For now the heat really seems to be harder on them than what I'm used to seeing on Cherry's. BTW, I'm in Dallas,Texas, and it's fairly commom knowlage that the BIG mato's don't do well because of the heat, is this what I'm seeing on the Roma's? Daty Rogers 1955 to 1974, when cars had class, __o drogers@spdc.ti.com NOT computers! -\<, (214)995-9633 ___________three 67 Barracuda's_______(*)/(*) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!news.claremont.edu!ucivax!megatek!redman Sat Jul 24 12:28:33 EDT 1993 Article: 19807 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!news.claremont.edu!ucivax!megatek!redman From: redman@megatek.com (Tim Redfield) Subject: Re: Roses Message-ID: <1993Jul13.213445.15879@megatek.com> Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California References: <1993Jul10.213801.1464@cvsd.cv.com> Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 21:34:45 GMT Lines: 18 >From article <1993Jul10.213801.1464@cvsd.cv.com>, by jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop): > > Hort. oil only works on insects. > > Try funginex on your roses. > > BTW, where in San Diego did you find horticultural oil? > > Jim I thought I could get it at sunshine gardens in encinitas - maybe I'm wrong. -- | Tim Redfield INTERNET: redman@megatek.com | | "I love the smell of salt water in the morning - | | it smells like... victory!" | From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!rational.com!bonnie!rlk Sat Jul 24 12:28:33 EDT 1993 Article: 19808 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!rational.com!bonnie!rlk From: rlk@bonnie.Rational.COM (Robert Kitzberger) Subject: Re: Need Help with Tomatoes Message-ID: Sender: news@rational.com Organization: Rational References: <16C0ADD57.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 22:17:04 GMT Lines: 13 Re: end rot on tomatoes. It's my understanding that this occurs due to uneven watering: too little water, followed by too much, which causes the tomato to grow rapidly. I had the problem until I started watering 2-3 times a week (Romas, very dry climate, 3" mulch) rather than once a week. .Bob. -- Bob Kitzberger Internet: rlk@rational.com Rational, Grass Valley, CA CompuServe: 70743,1550 "Man is a rational animal who always loses his temper when he is called upon to act in accordance with the dictates of reason." -- Oscar Wilde From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!biosys!mpc Sat Jul 24 12:28:34 EDT 1993 Article: 19809 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!biosys!mpc From: mpc@biosys.apldbio.COM (Morgan Conrad) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Propagating hollyhocks Summary: don't need cold Message-ID: <518@biosys.apldbio.COM> Date: 13 Jul 93 23:34:36 GMT References: Reply-To: mpc@apldbio.com (Morgan Conrad) Organization: Applied Biosystems Inc, Foster City, CA Lines: 16 bermes@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (Terry Bermes) asks: > This year I intend to propagate some new hollyhocks from seed > to that I can grow them where I want rather than simply letting the > volunteers grow where they may. Does hollyhock seed require any kind > of cold treatment before they'll germinate? I have no trouble growing dozens of semi-wild hollyhocks here in coastal California, so I doubt if they need much cold. BTW, one of my older plants is about 10 feet tall, is this some kind of a record? Morgan Conrad Who grants absolution Applied Biosystems for sins that never were committed? mpc@apldbio.com 415-570-6667 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Sat Jul 24 12:28:34 EDT 1993 Article: 19810 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Need help in Pond design.. Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 13 Jul 1993 23:44:24 GMT Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 16 Sender: bailey@butyng.bu.edu Distribution: na Message-ID: <21vhco$q99@news.bu.edu> References: <1993Jul12.213740.10772@ichips.intel.com> <1993Jul13.124659.3075@julian.uwo.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: butyng.bu.edu I know that pressure treated wood is toxic, but only so in certain ways and under certain circumstances. You are supposed to handle carefully (wear gloves and filter masks, for example) because the SPLINTERS and sawdust contain the toxins that make the wood preserved. However, the toxins (according to studies cited not long ago on misc.consumers.house) do NOT leach out or rub out from casual sontact with skin -- you don't want splinters under your skin, but touching the wood won't hurt you -- go barefoot on your PT deck! I do NOT know for sure what prolonged contact with water would do. In my suggestion, however, I DID say I was recommending that the PVC be wrapped several times around the wood -- no water would be likely to touch the wood in that case. Just to clarify. Sherry From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland Sat Jul 24 12:28:35 EDT 1993 Article: 19811 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland From: breland@mcc.com (Mark A. Breland) Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: Sender: news@mcc.com Reply-To: breland@mcc.com Organization: MCC References: <13JUL199308510878@venus.tamu.edu> Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 23:29:26 GMT Lines: 29 In article <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu>, ksk02983@menudo.uh.edu (Kevin Scott Kujawa) writes... > >So, if you try to be macho and eat peppers like a Mexican, how >do you survive? > >My mouth thanks you... First off, you don't have to be Mexican! ;) I'm of the mind that the ability to eat peppers is similar to the ability to roll your tongue... either you can or you can't. And you'll never learn how. Also kinda like being an Aggie, you are or you aren't, there's no being in the closet. (Some Aggies take this as a badge of honor...) This reminds me of the first time a co-worker ate a habanero. He'd seen me eating them at lunch for awhile, and when he asked what they were, I handed him one. He checked it out, sniffed at it, and moved to take a bite out of it. I said, "Uhh, I don't think you want to do that." He said, "Aww, it's just a pepper", and proceeded to take a big, healthy bite. He chewed, turned several different shades and hues of color, spit it out, and eventually had to go home for the rest of the day. (P.S. He wasn't an Aggie, but he showed remarkable tendencies as one) --- Mark A. Breland - Microelectronics and Computer Technology Corporation (MCC) Advanced Systems and Networks | voice: (512) 338-3509 3500 West Balcones Center Drive | FAX: (512) 338-3900 Austin, Texas 78759-6509 USA | internet: breland@mcc.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!caen!batcomputer!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!mac61.library.uwa.edu.au!user Sat Jul 24 12:28:36 EDT 1993 Article: 19812 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!caen!batcomputer!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!mac61.library.uwa.edu.au!user From: rainford@uniwa.uwa.edu.au (Anna Rainford) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Propagating hollyhocks Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 14 Jul 1993 00:21:28 GMT Organization: Uni of West Australia Lines: 19 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: mac61.library.uwa.edu.au In article , bermes@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (Terry Bermes) wrote: > > > This year I intend to propagate some new hollyhocks from seed > to that I can grow them where I want rather than simply letting the > volunteers grow where they may. Does hollyhock seed require any kind > of cold treatment before they'll germinate? > > Terry Hi Terry , Mine didn't. I just collected dry seeds from the plant, stored them in a dry paper bag and sowed them in autumn. I'm in Perth West Australia by the way, so it`wasn't exactly cold in the shed where I stored them! The parent were F1 though, so I'll be interested to see what the flowers from the seedlings will look like. Anna Rainford From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!bearcreek!james Sat Jul 24 12:28:36 EDT 1993 Article: 19813 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!bearcreek!james From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Sender: news@rchland.ibm.com Message-ID: <1993Jul14.003317.38014@rchland.ibm.com> Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 00:33:17 GMT Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> <1993Jul13.153339.9227@ichips.intel.com> <1993Jul13.171316.19561@ncsu.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: bearcreek.rchland.ibm.com Organization: IBM Rochester Lines: 25 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:458 rec.gardens:19813 In article <1993Jul13.171316.19561@ncsu.edu>, rbtemp@stat.ncsu.edu (Andrew McIntyre) writes: |> Ahhhh, chile de arbol! One of my favorites... makes an excellent whole pepper |> sauce, and tastes better than cayenne for dried uses. It can be hot, indeed. As |> for genetic predisposition: My parents and my brother can't get within 2 feet of |> a jalapeno or they start burning. However, I love peppers and can't seem to get |> enough... Does this mean it's a recessive trait?? |> |> Andrew McIntyre Brings to mind a recent story of brewing with the chile de arbol. Each year I use my food dehydrator to dry hot peppers for storage and I have accumulated bags of odds and ends that I can not always identify. Well, I was bottling a nice Pilsen beer one night and decided to added a dried pepper to each of eight bottles, so I grabbed from the random bag. The first bottle tried was fantastic. Just a hint of the hot and went wonderful with burritos. The second was a leathal weapon. Must have hit one of the De Arbols! -- James White From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf Sat Jul 24 12:28:37 EDT 1993 Article: 19814 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf From: adamf@hopper.ACS.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: Can Peppers Cross-pollinate? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: U.Va. Internet Public Access Project References: <1993Jun14.115703.1@vax.sonoma.edu> <1993Jul13.212130.4330@gallant.apple.com> Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 00:40:26 GMT Lines: 19 In article <1993Jul13.212130.4330@gallant.apple.com> jeremy@gallant.apple.com (Jeremy j. b. nguyen) writes: >We used to have a jalapeno next to a serrano, and after a while it seemed that >we were getting "jalarrano"s and "serrapeno"s. I'm not a pro, though... > >-j Yes they can, and do often - bees love their flowers. You must isolate pepper flowers from unwanted pollinators to get pure seed. (Remay or agryl row covers work well) sometimes the combinations you get from pepper out crosses are nice, sometimes hot and nasty. (some think this is good!) Adam Adam Finkelstein VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St. Harrisonburg, VA 22801 adamf@hopper.acs.virginia.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly Sat Jul 24 12:28:37 EDT 1993 Article: 19815 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Figs: What Do I Do Next? Date: 14 Jul 1993 01:21:13 GMT Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena Lines: 19 Message-ID: <21vn29INNb94@gap.caltech.edu> References: <93193.134952RSTJ3M@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> <1993Jul13.002753.18509@sequent.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: sandman.caltech.edu Speaking of figs... I am growing some new ones, and have had some dissapointment. I have a small mission fig which I remember being very delicious at a relative's house long ago, but the fruit is disappointing. Under the same growing conditions two other figs, a 'Ventura Strawberry fig' and a 'panache' (tiger) are doing great. So I am interested in the net's 'Favorite figs' I would like great tasting figs, and as many of them as possible from a small-medium sized plant. I want some bang for my buck (time and effort put into the plant.) Plant vigor is definitely a bonus. What does everyone say...favorite varieties of figs? If email if sent, I will do a very brief summary for the net. Kelly kelly@cco.caltech.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!bearcreek!james Sat Jul 24 12:28:38 EDT 1993 Article: 19816 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!bearcreek!james From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Sender: news@rchland.ibm.com Message-ID: <1993Jul14.013431.37903@rchland.ibm.com> Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 01:34:31 GMT Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM References: <13JUL199308510878@venus.tamu.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: bearcreek.rchland.ibm.com Organization: IBM Rochester Lines: 17 In article , breland@mcc.com (Mark A. Breland) writes: |> In article <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu>, ksk02983@menudo.uh.edu (Kevin Scott Kujawa) writes... |> him one. He checked it out, sniffed at it, and moved to take a bite out of |> it. I said, "Uhh, I don't think you want to do that." He said, "Aww, it's |> just a pepper", and proceeded to take a big, healthy bite. He chewed, turned |> several different shades and hues of color, spit it out, and eventually had |> to go home for the rest of the day. I have a unit of measurement for my peppers. It is called the Ramler Unit. This being defined as how far Mark Ramler would spit a Tiny Hot across the garden. The Chile De Arbol rated 3 Ramler units. Nice little pepper those Tiny Hots and De Arbols. -- James White From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly Sat Jul 24 12:28:38 EDT 1993 Article: 19817 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Insect ID Question: "Large Black Fly" Date: 14 Jul 1993 02:01:38 GMT Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena Lines: 22 Message-ID: <21vpe2INNcg8@gap.caltech.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: sandman.caltech.edu My friend down the block has worm compost boxes as do I, and recently dropped by to show me some new insect (we're always finding new insects which hide out in the bins.) This one looks, in its adult form, as a giant black fly. The body is thick, does not narrow. It has huge, black, fly like eyes, short, thick, antennae that it waves. Its over an inch big, less than two maybe. He does not seem to have a stinger, but a pair of pinchers...?? If that...? They fly about ignoring us. It seems they have a larval stage, like a large maggot, and they are eating food put in the box, it SEEMS, they cluster about the rotting fruit areas. The adults emerge out of the compost, rest for a period, then seem to fly away, not to return. We haven't caught any of the fly-like things, basically because they look very intimidating, to see more detail. Now I'm worried since i have seen a couple of the maggot like larvae in one of my boxes (witha hole in the lid,) and so....what are they, and what do they do?? Kelly Kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Recovering from three bumblebee stings acquired by disturbing a nest I never saw, at work...boy are they fast and nasty!) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:39 EDT 1993 Article: 19818 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Silica/Dried Flowers Message-ID: <1993Jul13.212508.14739@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 Jul 93 21:25:08 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 12 In article , eer@world.std.com (Eugene E Rosen) writes: > My friend PAT is not having good results using Silica to dry flowers. Are > other methods/products > better and is there a secret to it using Silica. Ah... I knew I had a reference... Jacobs, Betty EM 1988. Flowers that last forever: growing, harvesting and preserving. Garden Way Publishing, Pownal, VT. 222 pages. ISBN 0-88266-516-2 Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:39 EDT 1993 Article: 19819 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: just dry? Message-ID: <1993Jul13.214903.14740@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 Jul 93 21:49:03 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 59 In article , rosinia@gibbs.oit.unc.edu (James Rosinia) writes: > Well, it's stupid question time again from a neophyte gardener -- and this > time it's probably a REALLY stupid question. We all started out just as dumb... just takes practice to sound like you know what you're doing. I remember my grandfather patiently trying to explain why the bud we were grafting had to be *this way up*, not *that way*. And in college, I finally took a home horticulture class in self-defense -- got tired of being a biology major who killed plants. And now I are a botanist... ;-) > Any other tips about gardening in this ungodly heat? Do we dare plant > some hostas that we got just before it got really hot but that we haven't > had time to plant? Should we daily water some other plants that we did > plant before the heat hit -- some ferns, pieris japonica (sp?), and foam > flowers? I can't advise you on what to do for your azaleas, having never grown them except in a greenhouse. As to watering daily, try not to. Water deeply and thoroughly, so the water soaks down well in the soil. When you think you've watered enough, turn off the hose and wait a few minutes. Dig down next to a plant. Is the soil moist at least 6" down? If so, you've watered enough. If it's still dry at 6", you need to water more. After you've done some digging and looking for awhile, you'll soon get the idea of how much water your soil and plants need. (If you've got really sandy soil, you'll probably want to add all the organic matter you can to help retain water -- and maybe some of the water-holding gels, too.) Now watch the plants. They'll probably look like h*** in the evening. They've had a hard day in the heat. Look at them in the early morning, instead. Are they still droopy? If so, they need watering. If not, don't water. Watering shallowly and often encourages plants to form shallow roots (and not many roots), while watering only when the plants really need it makes the plants deeper-rooted. Same rules go for lawns: If you can see footprints in the lawngrass that are darker green and the blades of grass don't pop back up, you need to water. Again, deep and infrequent watering is better for the lawn. Most of the plants we grow as ornamentals need about the equivalent of 1" of rain a week. You can put in a rain gauge, then figure out how much extra water you need to make it up to 1" (1" rain = .62 gallons/sq ft soil). The one big exception to not watering every day is plants in containers-- esp. clay pots and hanging baskets. Those can loose so much water that you may have to water 3 times a day when it's really hot... You've got an excellent botanical garden in Chapel Hill I hear-- bet they give lessons -- even for folks who haven't figured out which end ot the plant goes in the pot! ;-) Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI (anybody need some water? All you have to do is move a stalled frontal system. We'll gladly see it go.) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:40 EDT 1993 Article: 19820 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: just dry? Message-ID: <1993Jul13.215220.14741@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 13 Jul 93 21:52:20 -0600 References: <1993Jul13.214903.14740@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 16 In article <1993Jul13.214903.14740@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: re: watering > Now watch the plants. They'll probably look like h*** in the evening. > They've had a hard day in the heat. Look at them in the early morning, > instead. Are they still droopy? If so, they need watering. If not, > don't water. Watering shallowly and often encourages plants to form > shallow roots (and not many roots), while watering only when the plants > really need it makes the plants deeper-rooted. Two final remarks about reducing the need to water: 1) mulch. Lots of mulch. 2) weed. Weeds use a jillion gallons more water than most crop plants. The nice thing is, #1 will take care of #2... ;-) Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!fibercom!blueridge!davison Sat Jul 24 12:28:40 EDT 1993 Article: 19821 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!fibercom!blueridge!davison From: davison@blueridge.fibercom.com (Mike Davison) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mold in new grass Message-ID: <53838@fibercom.COM> Date: 13 Jul 93 21:15:29 GMT Sender: news@fibercom.COM Organization: FiberCom, Inc., Roanoke, Virginia Lines: 25 Nntp-Posting-Host: blueridge I am sorry this isn't quite a "garden" question, but since you all were talking about getting clover (and lily?), of which we have both!!, to grow in your grass I thought I would ask a grass question. We tore out two way overgrown flower bed in front of our house, and for the time being are working on getting grass to grow there. For the most part it is in the shade all day long. The problem is that mold is growing in the grass. I have never seen this before, and don't know what to do about it. It is killing everything. It has been extremely hot and humid here (southwest VA) so that might be causing this, but I really don't want to have to replant the whole mess. Help, suggestions? PLEASE! Thanks much- michelle mum to savannah rose 12/22/92 -- -- Michael Davison | internet: davison@fibercom.com FiberCom, Inc. | voice: (703) 342-6700, extension 349 Roanoke, VA 24022-1966 | fax: (703) 342-5961 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!nigel.msen.com!fmsrl7!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!newsserver.sfu.ca!sfu.ca!rutten Sat Jul 24 12:28:41 EDT 1993 Article: 19822 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!nigel.msen.com!fmsrl7!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!newsserver.sfu.ca!sfu.ca!rutten From: rutten@kits.sfu.ca (Jacqueline Maria Rutten) Subject: Roses: Problems on leaves (help) Message-ID: Summary: Information on and remedy for problems on rose leaves wanted Keywords: rust roses help pests Sender: news@sfu.ca Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 03:08:44 GMT Lines: 15 We have a small rose bush in a 1.5 ft diameter pot, and it is producing great blooms. (Color was reduces when it was inside, so it is now back outside). However, the latest leave growths have been small, underdeveloped and darker green in color, with a whitish 'dust' on them. What is wrong with it? How do we get rid of it? Also, small 'rust' spots have developed on leaves that do not have the 'dust' on them. On the under side of the leaves, there is a VERY tiny fuzzy, bright orange spot that is more spherical than flat. Fungus??? Pest??? OTHER???????? Is it curable and how????? Help!!!!!! Although the rose does not show severely adverse affects, we would like to have it 'normal' again... Thank you for your help.... From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!dm055 Sat Jul 24 12:28:41 EDT 1993 Article: 19823 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!dm055 From: dm055@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Rebecca A. Jone) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Minitature Roses won't bloom Date: 14 Jul 1993 03:59:59 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 5 Message-ID: <2200bv$a3@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu Lots of sun! At least 4 hours full sun. Keep it moist too. If indoors be sure to provide humidity by putting it on top of wet gravel. It will still need the sun too. Give it rose food or fish emulsion once a month too. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!dm055 Sat Jul 24 12:28:42 EDT 1993 Article: 19824 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!dm055 From: dm055@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Rebecca A. Jone) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Roses: Problems on leaves (help) Date: 14 Jul 1993 04:08:42 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 9 Message-ID: <2200sa$106@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: hela.ins.cwru.edu The white powdery stuff is mildew. The rust colored stuff is -- rust. Both are fungi. You can spray with Funginex to help control the fungi. You can also use Orthenex which contains Funginex along with some insecticides that are useful with other rose problems such as thrips, aphids, and spider mites. Either should really be used on a regular basis (I spray once a week) to prevent a serious outbreak of mildew or rust or blackspot (another popular rose fungi). From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sat Jul 24 12:28:42 EDT 1993 Article: 19825 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Re: Can Peppers Cross-pollinate? Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 04:22:22 GMT References: Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 8 There was a previous posting on this topic, where someone wrote that there was no problem the first year with the peppers, but after that the crossings could and would occur... I have jalapenos, serranos, and Thai peppers all in close proximity this year (and, for that matter, sweet bells). I'll know better next year... Gary Hypes From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!convex!constellation!wuntvor!grizila!susan Sat Jul 24 12:28:43 EDT 1993 Article: 19827 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!convex!constellation!wuntvor!grizila!susan From: susan@grizila.pillar.com (Susan Barrington) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: ground wasps--Help! Message-ID: Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 17:13:13 CDT Organization: Grizila Onenode Network Lines: 26 Help, we have a bunch of little black crabby wasp-like insects taking over our back yard. They're only about an inch long, black with a pale stripe near the stinger. The reason I THINK they're wasps is when they stung my husband (while mowing that part of the lawn), the stingers didn't stay in him. They seem to fly about an inch or so over the grass. What can I use to get rid of these nasty little things? They're right next to my newly planted rose garden and right in the middle of the lawn. I would just spray any old "death to insects" stuff on them, but we've been working very hard at getting our firefly population back up, so I'm leary about doing too much damage to it. Any suggestions (short of staying in the house which is what the county extention guy suggested kiddingly when I called them). He recommended Dursban but that sounds pretty extreme to me. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!! Susan ___________________________________________________________________________ |susan@grizila.pillar.com (Susan Barrington) |Edmond, OK. 73034 |___________________________________________________________________________ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!compass-da!rat!linsley Sat Jul 24 12:28:44 EDT 1993 Article: 19828 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!compass-da!rat!linsley From: vlsisj!smds!linsley@decwrl.dec.com (Chuck Linsley) Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: <1993Jul14.032141.13423@compass-da.com> Keywords: pepper peppers jalapeno serrano cyanne Mexican Sender: usenet@compass-da.com (Usenet News) Reply-To: vlsisj!smds!linsley@decwrl.dec.com (Chuck Linsley) Organization: Compass Design Automation/VLSI Technology, Inc. (San Jose) References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> Date: Wed, 14 Jul 93 03:21:41 GMT Lines: 18 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:460 rec.gardens:19828 In article <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu>, ksk02983@menudo.uh.edu (Kevin Scott Kujawa) writes: |> What do you do if you think you're a Mexican (like my ex GirlFriend) |> and eat some?? She was ok, and eats them everyday -- but I |> ate one and thought I was going to die! It took about thirty |> minutes before I could even open my eyes. I tried milk, jello and |> iced water, but no help. (DO NOT try to brush your teeth.) Capsaicin (sp?), the chemical which makes peppers hot, is fat soluble. Suck on the nearest fatty food you can find. Butter is a good choice. The capsaicin will diffuse out of your cells and into the fat. -- Chuck Linsley Don't trust 'Reply.' vlsisj!smds!linsley@decwrl.dec.com seems to work, but if you can find a better path, I'd love to find out about it. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpfcso!duanej Sat Jul 24 12:28:44 EDT 1993 Article: 19829 of rec.gardens From: duanej@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Duane Jacobson) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1993 23:23:59 GMT Subject: Re: converting lawn to garden help needed Message-ID: <9880061@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpfcso!duanej Newsgroups: rec.gardens References: <1993Jul10.234922.6546@wkuvx1.bitnet> Lines: 31 |/ hpfcso:rec.gardens / cabanrf@wkuvx1.bitnet / 10:49 pm Jul 10, 1993 / | | ....... After two months or so with the plastic I plan on |covering the entire area with wheat straw (pulling the plastic up) |over the winter. Till it in in the spring and plant strawberrys |leaving the mulch in the aisles. Consider that there will be some residual wheat seeds mixed in with the straw. We put oat straw on part of our garden one year, and ended up with oat stalks all over the place. |I wish to totally avoid herbicides and pesticides. Any suggestions? |Partidcularly with regard to weed control. Take a look a Eliot Coleman's "New Organic Grower" for ideas. |(The lawn is about 2 acres and I'm tired of mowing.) Why do you want such a large straberry patch? There are certainly many ways to cover ground that require a lot less trouble than strawberries. My folks have a patch that's got to be less than 1/10 acre, and they get a few hundred quarts off it in a season. |Would just tilling the area every two weeks do better at weed control |(and grub removal) than the plastic idea? Covering 2 acres with plastic seems like a big job, but I suppose it's possible. You'll need a lot of bricks/stones/etc to keep it from blowing away. Some sort of annual cover crop might make a better alternative. It will help keep the weeds at bay, and then you can just till it in next spring. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!NewsWatcher!user Sat Jul 24 12:28:45 EDT 1993 Article: 19830 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!NewsWatcher!user From: nicmad!klebba%astroatc.uucp@spool.cs.wisc.edu (Bob Klebba) Subject: Re: How do you save onion seeds? Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@nicmad.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: mac1_17 Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation References: <20n92eINNhh3@ctron-news.ctron.com> <1993Jun29.163512.3542@lsl.co.uk> <21lg9aINNl1q@network.ucsd.edu> Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 18:44:28 GMT Lines: 25 In article <21lg9aINNl1q@network.ucsd.edu>, ee171ubh@sdcc15.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue) wrote: > > Yes, buty what would happen if one were to grow the seed that a mature > Elephant Garlic produces? A few of the elephant garlics here have big > winding snaky stalks with big purple explosions and little black seeds. > What should I expect these seeds to grow into? Can I plant > them directly or should I dry them. Nancy Bubbel does not specify. You'd get elephant garlic seedlings if you planted the seeds. Planting them directly depends on your climate. I wouldn't be able to get the plants to harden off before the ground freezes here. As a rule, onion seed doesn't maintain its viability more than a year, so you should plant the seed next spring. Elephant garlic is a type of leek. Growing it from seed should be similar to growing leeks. BTW you'll get more elephant garlic faster if you divide and replant the bulbs every year. Growing from seed will be a slow process. Bob Klebba Nicolet Instrument Corp. Madison, WI, USA USDA zone 4 "Submit to Barney" From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!think.com!mac-jimmy-46.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co Sat Jul 24 12:28:46 EDT 1993 Article: 19831 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!think.com!mac-jimmy-46.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co From: George T. Pearson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help my sick hibiscus, please! Date: 14 Jul 1993 12:49:04 GMT Organization: DFCI Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <220vc0INN4t4@early-bird.think.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac-jimmy-46.dfci.harvard.edu X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d24 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Wed, 14 Jul 93 08:50:05 GMT I now know why I got such a good price on this topiary hibiscus! I started fertizlizing it with Miracle Grow and it has bloomed its head off but little black bugs started appearing on the buds and some of the leaves turned yellow and had black spots on them. Thanks to advice from Ruth Kline, I sprayed it with a solution of rubbing alcohol and dishwash detergent and the bugs seem to have run for cover. However, more and more leaves are turning yellow. What have I done wrong or not done? Is it possible I overfertilized or it needs a different fertilizer? There are viola plants at the base of it and they are doing great. The pot has good drainage so I don't think it was overwatered. This is very frustrating to see this plant with beautfil flowers but yellow leaves! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!aukuni.ac.nz!kcbbs!pandora Sat Jul 24 12:28:46 EDT 1993 Article: 19832 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!waikato.ac.nz!aukuni.ac.nz!kcbbs!pandora Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: A Potato in a Basket Message-ID: <3693194.19212.11226@kcbbs.gen.nz> From: Dawn_Scotting@kcbbs.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting) Date: 14 Jul 93 05:20:12 GMT Organization: Kappa Crucis Unix BBS, Auckland, New Zealand Lines: 20 I'd like to share this magazine article with you. Ideal for those of you that don't have much garden space or if you live in an apartment with a balcony. A Potato in a Bucket My favourite winter project is a bucket of potatoes. Find an old bucket or an old styrofoam box & put a few holes in the base. Place a little moist soil or potting mix in the bottom, then throw in a potato - preferably sprouting or green - then add more potting mixture, enough just to cover the spud. As soon as you see the first green shoot, cover it almost to the top. As the potato top keeps growing, keep covering the new stem & leaves so that only a few are showing. Make sure you keep the soil or potting mix moist. Potatoes send out roots - new potatoes - along their stems, so the more stem you cover, the more spuds you will get. Take your potato plant out into the sunlight every morning. Bring it in at night & keep adding mulch. After 3 months, start wriggling your hand under the mulch to "bandicoot" up any new potatoes. As soon as the plant dies down, invert the bucket. It should be almost entirely full of spuds. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!borg.cs.unc.edu!not-for-mail Sat Jul 24 12:28:47 EDT 1993 Article: 19833 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!borg.cs.unc.edu!not-for-mail From: marshall@cs.unc.edu (Jonathan Marshall) Newsgroups: triangle.gardens,rec.gardens Subject: Toxicity of deck wash & seal Followup-To: misc.consumers.house Date: 14 Jul 1993 10:24:27 -0400 Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill Lines: 18 Distribution: na Message-ID: <2214urINN6q2@marshall.cs.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: marshall.cs.unc.edu Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu triangle.gardens:154 rec.gardens:19833 I would like to have my deck washed and resealed/preserved sometime soon. However, there are some new, young bushes immediately adjacent to the deck. Rainwater drainage from under the deck flows by some of these bushes and then into the grass. Will the chemicals used for the wash & seal hurt the bushes or the grass? Are there methods (e.g. power-washing with no chemicals) or chemicals that will avoid harm to the plants? Thanks! = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Jonathan A. Marshall marshall@cs.unc.edu = = Department of Computer Science = = CB 3175, Sitterson Hall = = University of North Carolina Office 919-962-1887 = = Chapel Hill, NC 27599-3175, U.S.A. Fax 919-962-1799 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb Sat Jul 24 12:28:47 EDT 1993 Article: 19834 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb From: barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Organic straw Date: 14 Jul 1993 14:17:04 GMT Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH Lines: 16 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2214h0$4c2@meaddata.meaddata.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: moe.meaddata.com Some time ago, someone posted a question about the availability of organic straw. Some know-it-all (me, I believe) said it was highly unlikely that such a thing existed. Now, in the Ohio Ecological Food & Farm Association News, I see that someone is selling "organically grown clover-timothy hay." Hay isn't straw, but if you want to check with this person, the phone number is (216) 939-5980 (Cleveland, OH area) and the name is Jim Glasser. -- Barbara Bruns Technical Communications & Education The opinions expressed here by me are not necessarily those of Mead Data Central; nor would they much care about the things about which I have opinions. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sat Jul 24 12:28:48 EDT 1993 Article: 19835 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Does Canning Belong Here? Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 15:45:13 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 4 Do questions/postings about canning belong here? If not, where? misc.rural? rec.cooking? alt.sex.canning? Any suggestions? Gary Hypes From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!warwick!uknet!lsl!clarke Sat Jul 24 12:28:49 EDT 1993 Article: 19836 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!warwick!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Fluorescent flower? Message-ID: <1993Jul14.154825.3583@lsl.co.uk> Date: 14 Jul 93 15:48:24 +0100 References: <1993Jul13.092524.28530@newstand.syr.edu> Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 14 In article moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) writes: >I had an interesting weed show up in my lawn - a plant with hairy grayish >leathery leaves, and smallish (3/4") magenta flowers. But the flowers >are really bright, they're not just magenta - they seem to be colored with >the fluorescent "day-glo" dye used for safety, kid's toys, etc. I've never >seen anything like it in nature. > Sorry - I think we lost the original news item here, but I've seen one response suggesting Rose Campion. It sounds right to me too. The latin name is Lychnis coronaria. It comes in a white form too, as well as other cultivars from the seed merchants. I don't really see the attraction of the white form myself, as the fluorescent flowers are the main feature of the plant. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!oac4.hsc.uth.tmc.edu!yggdrasil.mda.uth.tmc.edu!user Sat Jul 24 12:28:49 EDT 1993 Article: 19837 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!oac4.hsc.uth.tmc.edu!yggdrasil.mda.uth.tmc.edu!user From: cyn@odin.mda.uth.tmc.edu (Cyndi Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help - mold on clay pots! Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 14 Jul 1993 15:40:28 GMT Organization: MD Anderson Cancer Center Lines: 21 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: yggdrasil.mda.uth.tmc.edu To start off - I am a relative newcomer to growing stuff. I bought some really pretty clay window boxes in which I planted various herbs. The plants are all doing well, but the post look awful. Some kind of green mold(?) is growing on them and if I take a deep breath when working in the pots, whew! Some points to note - 1. I live in Houston - hot and humid 2. The boxes are all outside 3. Because of 1 & 2, I water pretty much every day (if I don't, everything wilts QUICKLY!) 4. As I mentioned, all the platns seem to be doing OK (especially the basil and cilantro, oregano and catnip are going slower). Should I clean the stuff off of the boxes? What should I use - just scrub with a brush or use some cleaner? (would bleach, etc. leach through and effect the herbs?) Help! Cyndi Smith Computer Programmer Department of Biomathematics M. D. Anderson Cancer Center Phone: 713/794-4938 Fax: 713/792-4262 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:28:50 EDT 1993 Article: 19838 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Need Help with Tomatoes Message-ID: <1993Jul14.095908.14214@walter.cray.com> Lines: 27 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <16C0ADD57.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Date: 14 Jul 93 09:59:07 CDT In article , rlk@bonnie.Rational.COM (Robert Kitzberger) writes: |> Re: end rot on tomatoes. |> |> It's my understanding that this occurs due to uneven watering: |> too little water, followed by too much, which causes the tomato to grow |> rapidly. I had the problem until I started watering 2-3 times |> a week (Romas, very dry climate, 3" mulch) rather than once a week. |> |> .Bob. |> -- |> Bob Kitzberger Internet: rlk@rational.com |> Rational, Grass Valley, CA CompuServe: 70743,1550 |> "Man is a rational animal who always loses his temper when he is called |> upon to act in accordance with the dictates of reason." -- Oscar Wilde This problem is also aggravated by too much nitrogen and moist conditions at the start of the growing season followed by hot dry weather. The REAL problem is a metabolic disorder of tomatoes whereby they can't effectively transport calcium to the developing fruits. Adding lime to the soil at planting time helps this but even with good lime levels, if succulent rapidly growing tomato plants are hit by hot dry blasts from hell, you are likely to see some blossom end rot and if the soil dries to where they start wilting in the afternoon, you are likely to see it on most of your fruits. Some varieties are more susceptible than others. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews Sat Jul 24 12:28:50 EDT 1993 Article: 19839 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer) Subject: Re: Small Brown Beetles are Eating my Basil! Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 15:45:42 GMT References: <93194.112921RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> Nntp-Posting-Host: jurassic.ch.apollo.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard Corporation, Chelmsford, MA Lines: 22 In article <93194.112921RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> Robert Chambers writes: >They are June bugs... real similar to japanese beetles except for >coloring. They also wind up in those bag-a-bug (tm) traps if you >set them out. They snap like popcorn between your fingers if you >like to kill them that way. I leave the carcasses around for the >ants to take home. They are voracious eaters and can denude plants >overnight if there are enough of them. 'Fraid these aren't what I know as "june bugs". In my book, the latter are 2-3x the size of Japanese beetles, and haven't ever bothered my plants that I've noticed. >Sevin kills them real fast >but it's not nearly as much fun as stomping them. I agree with [a] and [b], but I keep hoping I'll find a slightly less toxic remedy for the edibles, and [b] is getting very, very tiresome. One's fun-meter can only take so much on a given day. ;-/ -- "I feel lightheaded, Sam. I think my brain | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com is out of air. But it's kind of a neat | /HP/org/chart/says/you/are/here feeling..." --Freelance Police | Massachusetts Language Lab From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling Sat Jul 24 12:28:51 EDT 1993 Article: 19840 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: A Potato in a Basket Message-ID: <1993Jul14.171838.12511@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: <3693194.19212.11226@kcbbs.gen.nz> Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 17:18:38 GMT Lines: 7 > potato in a bucket Be sure that you start with a potato that's either already sprouting (or at least hasn't been treated as most supermarket potatoes are) to not sprout. I started my garden potatoes from organic supermarket potatoes and that worked fine. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!usenet Sat Jul 24 12:28:51 EDT 1993 Article: 19841 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!usenet From: judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: deadheading salvia Date: 14 Jul 1993 17:19:40 GMT Organization: NASA/Langley Research Center Lines: 17 Distribution: world Message-ID: <221f7dINNqs6@rave.larc.nasa.gov> References: <1993Jul13.172758.18770@ico.isc.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mollusk.larc.nasa.gov In article <1993Jul13.172758.18770@ico.isc.com> carnes@ico.isc.com (Steve Carnes) writes: >We have a couple small blue salvia plants (annuals, I b'lieve) -- the tall >blue spikes looked gorgeous in amongst the other mostly red and white >flowers, but now they've faded and gone brown. Is there something I can >do to get them to rebloom? When I started deadheading my Oxford Blue salvia I noticed that low down on the original flower stalks, two other small (spikes/buds/spike-buds?) had begun to grow on either side. So I looked for these emerging whatevers and cut just above them. I sure hope the second blooming turns out as spectacular as the first. As you said, they're really dramatic among red and yellow flowers. Judith Moore judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.cs.brandeis.edu!binah.cc.brandeis.edu!SHAVELSON Sat Jul 24 12:28:52 EDT 1993 Article: 19842 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.cs.brandeis.edu!binah.cc.brandeis.edu!SHAVELSON From: shavelson@binah.cc.brandeis.edu Subject: Tomato and nasturtium problems Message-ID: <1993Jul14.174111.6143@news.cs.brandeis.edu> Sender: news@news.cs.brandeis.edu (USENET News System) Reply-To: shavelson@binah.cc.brandeis.edu Organization: Brandeis University Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 17:41:11 GMT Lines: 21 I'm growing tomatoes (I don't know what kind--the seedlings at the nursery were unlabeled) in 5-gallon plastic buckets on a balcony. They get full sun all day, they sit on a black (roofing shingle) surface, and it's been hot here. I've been watering every day or every other because it's been so hot. Each plant has 3 or 4 plum-sized green fruits. Each one is mulched with grass clippings to try to keep the soil cooler and even out the amount of moisture. The problem: the leaves are curling longitudinally. They leaves otherwise look dark green and healthy. There's no other sign of disease or insects. Any ideas? The nasturtium problem is a repeat: no one responded the first time, and the problem is continuing. The leaves are turning yellow rapidly and then withering up. I've varied the watering schedule and moved them in and out of the sun (they're in pots, too). Nothing has made any difference. There is no sign of aphids or other pests. Thanks for any help. Susanne From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:52 EDT 1993 Article: 19843 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Roses: Problems on leaves (help) Message-ID: <1993Jul14.130445.14754@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 14 Jul 93 13:04:45 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 24 In article , rutten@kits.sfu.ca (Jacqueline Maria Rutten) writes: > We have a small rose bush in a 1.5 ft diameter pot, and it is producing great > blooms. (Color was reduces when it was inside, so it is now back outside). > However, the latest leave growths have been small, underdeveloped and darker > green in color, with a whitish 'dust' on them. What is wrong with it? > How do we get rid of it? One of the powdery mildews, it sounds like. Fungicides are the weapon of choice. > > Also, small 'rust' spots have developed on leaves that do not have the > 'dust' on them. On the under side of the leaves, there is a VERY tiny > fuzzy, bright orange spot that is more spherical than flat. Fungus??? > Pest??? OTHER???????? Is it curable and how????? Help!!!!!! One of the leaf rusts, also a fungus. Fungicides again. Actually, neither powdery mildew or rust is a real rose-killer for most cultivars, though they can make the plants kinda ugly... I prefer to plant rust-, mildew-, and blackspot- resistant roses and let them duke it out with the fungi without my intervention... Kay Klier From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!sdd.hp.com!inn Sat Jul 24 12:28:53 EDT 1993 Article: 19844 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!sdd.hp.com!inn From: davds@hpsdde.sdd.hp.com (David Schwantner) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Keeping Bird from Figs Date: 14 Jul 1993 18:43:33 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Site Lines: 18 Message-ID: <221k4lINN8i5@hpsdlss3.sdd.hp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdd57.sdd.hp.com X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.80 I have a large Fig tree (~20' high, 15' dia.). It is strarting to ripen its second crop of the year (first one was in March/April). The first one produced about 20 lbs., with over half of them eaten by the birds. This crop is alot bigger, and I don't want it wasted by the birds. Any suggestions? Does plain alum. foil tied to the tree work the same as the stuff you can buy in catalogs? I am shooting for low cost here, but I may resort to nets, and just cut the top branches of to make it managable. Thanks in advance!! P.S.: I pruned it back heavily in November '92, but we had great rains. I don't want the tree that tall, so I guess I will have to be even more aggressive this year. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!bearcreek!james Sat Jul 24 12:28:53 EDT 1993 Article: 19845 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!bearcreek!james From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Sender: news@rchland.ibm.com Message-ID: <1993Jul14.174734.30867@rchland.ibm.com> Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 17:47:34 GMT Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM References: Nntp-Posting-Host: bearcreek.rchland.ibm.com Organization: IBM Rochester Lines: 5 I would certainly be open to any canning questions. -- James White Gardener's motto: Eat what you can, and can what you can't. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!vm.cc.purdue.edu!MWORKMAN Sat Jul 24 12:28:54 EDT 1993 Article: 19846 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!vm.cc.purdue.edu!MWORKMAN From: MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu Subject: More tomato questions Message-ID: <16C0BC157.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Sender: news@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (USENET News) Organization: Purdue University X-Newsreader: NNR/VM S_1.3.2 Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 18:44:55 GMT Lines: 11 Hi again, Rgearding my question about rotting tomatoes. Many have suggested that my problem is blossom end rot and is due to inconsistent watering patterns. However, we have been getting strange weather here in Indiana. (as elsewhere). It will rain heavily one day, then be 90 degrees the next. Then rain heavily again. What should I do with regards to watering the tomatoes. If it rains heavily one day, should I water it at any time during the week. Even if it gets to be 90 degrees the rest of the week, etc? Thanks again, Maggie From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!meaddata!dedek Sat Jul 24 12:28:54 EDT 1993 Article: 19847 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!meaddata!dedek From: dedek@meaddata.com (Mike Dedek) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Transplanted Dogwood tree not doing to well.. Date: 14 Jul 1993 20:43:59 GMT Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH Lines: 32 Distribution: world Message-ID: <221r6f$5hs@meaddata.meaddata.com> References: <1993Jul13.144847.7543@ichips.intel.com> <1993Jul13.213030.24058@ichips.intel.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: moonlight.meaddata.com In article <1993Jul13.213030.24058@ichips.intel.com>, dcovell@frx702.intel.com (David Covell - EPG) writes: |> In article farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: |> >Huh? Dogwoods don't like full sun? Funny, someone better tell that to the |> >dogwoods around here (Knoxville, home of the Dogwood Arts Festiville). Most |> >planted ones are put in full sun and they love it. Plus, they don't stand |> >quite the risk of dogwood anthracnose that the ones in the shade do. |> > |> >Susan |> > |> That might be the case in your part of the country where the humidity is |> high in the summer but is definitely not true in dryer areas. Full sun |> and the absence of shelter from the hot winds quickly fry dogwoods, japanese |> maples, and other sensitive trees. There are millions of native dogwoods |> in the California foothills but I have never seen even one growing without |> the protection of taller trees. I've seen many attempts at growing them in |> unprotected areas and the few that don't die look pathetic all summer long. |> I have at least 10 gardening books at home and every one of them suggests |> planting dogwoods only in partial shade. I'm glad for your sake that you |> can do otherwise in Knoxville, but it's simply not the case in dryer areas. |> Dogwoods are generally native to the edges of forests. Aren't you a little bit in the mountains in Knoxville? Maybe the extra height, plus perhaps a shorter direct-sun time due to the mountains on the horizon are just the extra protection the dogwoods need. We planted 3 last fall; one is in medium-full shade and is doing great; the other 2 are in almost full sun and are looking a little dry. I think they'll survive and there are trees south that will eventually shade them more. -Mike From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Sat Jul 24 12:28:55 EDT 1993 Article: 19848 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: "Noah's Garden", by Sara Stein (boundaries & limits) Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 14 Jul 1993 22:01:27 GMT Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 93 Sender: bailey@butyng.bu.edu Message-ID: <221vnn$ho2@news.bu.edu> References: <21sge7$pgj@news.bu.edu> <21uk2j$b88@samba.oit.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: butyng.bu.edu On the subject of boundaries and limits for gardening (whether ecolocigally/ organically or chemically) -- that seems like a potentially interesting new thread for philosophical discussion, don't you think? What kinds of limits and boundaries does YOUR philosophy of gardening, and your PRACTICE of gardening (not always the same for various reasons) include? Just to start things off, I would say that philosophically, I am an Earth Day environmentalist -- I think we SHOULD "walk gently on the Earth", and do no harm, only (to the best of our understanding) good. I approve of organic methods, and think lawns are not only boring but a rather accumulative ecological menace. (I think really nicely maintained lawns are, unfortunately, beautiful in a certain very "controlled" way (which is why everybody tries for them) but I also see that the costs of this perfection in labor and water waste and fertilizers (of whatever kind preferred) are way too high.) I think xeriscaping should be practiced everywhere, so minimal "interferance" from humans is required to maintain a landscape, that mostly naturally occuring water should be enough. (After all, in a serious drought would you rather give up water for people or yards?) So philosophically, I tend to run rather consistently in the Save the Planet mode. PRACTICALLY, however, I must confess that I diverge a little. I want to grow my own raspberries since I love to eat them, they grow well in my zone, and they are so fragile for shipping that they are ridiculously expensive in the supermarket (I've seen them at $4.95 for a HALF pint!) But that means I have to rip out the naturally occuring wild blackberries in the yard now -- I like them very much too, but they carry viral diseases that spread to domesticated plants, so they are required to go. I like the look of Japanese style gardening for landscaping, and although in one way Japanese gardens are nature perfected, in another way they are among the most contrived of all gardening forms. And if you take up the formal pruning and moss garden sweeping, etc., they are EXTREMELY labor intensive. (I'm trying to work around that!) (Which means the look will be compromised and not REALLY Japanese style.) On a practical level, I live in a suburban neighborhood where all the lots along our cul-de-sca are contiguous. I can minimize the lawn without too much complaint, but fences are subject to zoning and covenants (no nice bamboo wall surrounding the property and making a background for the plantings would be allowed, for example.) (Not that I could afford it or would like the look on this particular lot, anyhow!) Only a specified percentage of the lot may have hard surfaces (like patios or driveways) and house on it. And neighbors with connecting land would not be nice about invasive plantings that would take over their yards. So for me, in real life, the boundaries and limits are a set comprised of those imposed by law (the zoning and covenants) and those imposed by my philosophy (ecological) PLUS the diplomatic relations with my neighbors, my husband's input (as little lawn to mow as possible, and then only easy to mow square shapes preferred!) and other pragmatic concerns (like maybe having a dog.) This works out to things like stopping the chain-link fence after it wrapped only 20' toward the front yard partly because the next-door Chem-Lawn king started to get antsy that we would be bringing it clear to the front of the property along his yard without his permission (even though it's a foot onto OUR side of the lot line). He thinks fences are hostile. It means making the organic shapes of my bark mulch patches around trees in the yard a bit more rectangular (with curved corners) so I'm not creating so many funny shaped areas of lawn to mow. It means keeping my ornamental pond under 24 inches deep so it doesn't require an enclosing fence. It means NOT planting bamboo which might take over the neighborhood. All of these things are compromises. It also means choosing shrubs that fit my criteria for low maintenance as well as zone hardiness and attractiveness, AND which provide food or shelter for the birds. It means buying my wildflowers from reputable dealers that propagate them in nurseries rather than digging them up illegally in the park near by. It means trying to learn enough about the needs of the plants I like to choose wisely (although I have fouled myself up with impulse buys!) and learning to cut my losses when I make a big mistake (like some exbury hybrid azaleas I have which are VERY sad!!) I do compost my oak leaves and grass clippings I can get from other places, and I use the compost much faster than I can make it. I do use organic fertilizers (slow release) for the lawn and then only once or twice a year, plus the clippings from the mulching mower. I do minimize watering, although this year that has still been a lot -- really hot & dry in New England. I do weed the lawn by hand, as well as the rest of my yard (not religiously, though!) As I learn more, I change things, and eventually I think I'll reach the best compromise between what *I* think is the perfect way to do things and what outside forces demand of me. If I can, maybe I will be a factor in changing WHAT those demands are -- like campaigning to have the Homeowner's Association demand organic lawn care for the community owned property (around the pond, in the cul-de-sacs, etc.), or changing the zoning definition of "weeds". And maybe I can someday convert the ChemLawn King to organic maintenance, too. (Certainly I will be more successful if I can demonstrate the benefits first hand -- unfortunately I'm still too new at it -- our adjoining lawns are equally brown right now!) Anybody else care to discuss THEIR philosophical and practical gardening (& landscaping) boundaries & limits? I have only a tiny (boring) food garden, not worth discussion, so that's an area I leave to others. FWIW Sherry From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnewsi!ptr Sat Jul 24 12:28:55 EDT 1993 Article: 19849 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnewsi!ptr From: ptr@cbnewsi.cb.att.com (peter.appow) Subject: aging spruce Organization: AT&T Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 21:37:43 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 3 I've read that as members of the spruce family (e.g. Norway, blue, white) age, their lower limbs droop and finally they fall off. Is this true and if so at what age does this happen? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!flop.ENGR.ORST.EDU!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!sweiger Sat Jul 24 12:28:56 EDT 1993 Article: 19850 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!flop.ENGR.ORST.EDU!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!sweiger From: sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com> Date: 14 Jul 93 21:19:15 GMT Sender: usenet@sequent.com (usenet ) Organization: Sequent Computer Systems Inc. Lines: 8 Nntp-Posting-Host: eng2.sequent.com So how wet is it in Iowa? Are the gardens that aren't underwater alright? Kay? --Mark phone: (503)578-4329 fax: (503)578-5730 internet: sweiger@sequent.com -- phone: (503)578-4329 fax: (503)578-5730 internet: sweiger@sequent.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:28:56 EDT 1993 Article: 19851 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: More tomato questions Message-ID: <1993Jul14.183852.20553@walter.cray.com> Lines: 33 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <16C0BC157.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Date: 14 Jul 93 18:38:51 CDT In article <16C0BC157.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu>, MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu writes: |> Hi again, |> Rgearding my question about rotting tomatoes. Many have suggested |> that my problem is blossom end rot and is due to inconsistent watering |> patterns. However, we have been getting strange weather here in Indiana. |> (as elsewhere). It will rain heavily one day, then be 90 degrees the next. |> Then rain heavily again. What should I do with regards to watering the |> tomatoes. If it rains heavily one day, should I water it at any time |> during the week. Even if it gets to be 90 degrees the rest of the week, etc? |> |> Thanks again, |> Maggie If your soil is staying moist to wet then the rot is not a watering problem. It could still be blossom end rot because of excess nitrogen/insufficient calcium in the soil. You only need to water when the soil gets slightly dry through a deep layer. THis year try to keep the plants lightly fertilized rather than feast/famine type feeding. The amount of rain you have had has probably leached out excess nitrogen so the plants won't make any more really soft sappy growth unless you feed them heavily again. Another cause of rots entirely would be insect damage. Look for holes where borers went in. These often turn into large rotten spots a few days later. Fungus diseases are another possibility but these rarely wipe out an entire crop of fruit without doing something significant to the plant. If fruits are lying on the ground or in puddles they could also rot. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv Sat Jul 24 12:28:57 EDT 1993 Article: 19852 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv From: nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA) Subject: Tulips Message-ID: Sender: news@ohsu.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: 137.53.56.80 Organization: Oregon Health Sciences University Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 00:21:05 GMT Lines: 13 This past fall (October) I moved into my first house. This spring and summer I have happily (sometimes not so happily) watched what the former owners planted (a LOT of dandilions, quack grass, morning glory, etc.). There _were_ three very nice tulips that came up and have now died back. They were really crowded by other plantings (azelea), so I want to move them. Do I: (1) dig them up now and replant them now? (2) dig them up now and store them somehow? How? In sawdust in a cool place? Refridgerator? Then plant them after the first frost? (3) other? Are there any FAQs in regards to this type of question? -Marsie Nufer (nuferv@ohsu.edu) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!newsserver.sfu.ca!news Sat Jul 24 12:28:58 EDT 1993 Article: 19853 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!newsserver.sfu.ca!news From: windels@sfu.ca (Karla Windels) Subject: Re: Silica/Dried Flowers Message-ID: <1993Jul15.010540.21903@sfu.ca> Sender: news@sfu.ca Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada References: Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 01:05:40 GMT Lines: 34 In article eer@world.std.com (Eugene E Rosen) writes: > My friend PAT is not having good results using Silica to dry flowers. Are > other methods/products > better and is there a secret to it using Silica. > > thanks > > gene > > -- > Eugene E. Rosen GENIE: erosen > 22 Riverside Road COMPUSERVE:74066,3444 > Sandy Hook, Ct. 06482-1213 AOL: Gene Rosen I'm not sure what method your friend Pat is using with the Silica but a book I have at home suggests using it in your microwave. Put the Silica in a micro-proof dish (not to be used for food again), put the flower in, cover with a little more Silica, and nuke for a minute. Let the container stand for a minute or two and see if it's done. I don't have the book title on hand, but it's all about everlastings and I'm sure this method is explained in more detail in other books as well. However, I was cautioned that you need to be *very* careful when using Silica. It was suggested that a dust mask be worn. A local florist suggested using that new kitty litter (the clumping stuff made out of bentonite (sp?) clay or whatever). Use it the same way as Silica and it's not as potentially bad for your health. Please note, I have *not* tried either of these two methods myself. I'm just passing on things I've heard or read. I plan to try the kitty litter method as soon as this years flowers are ready. karla From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:58 EDT 1993 Article: 19854 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Stoney pitted fruits Message-ID: <1993Jul14.203220.14783@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 14 Jul 93 20:32:20 -0600 References: <21khca$mvi@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <21khej$n2t@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <1993Jul13.102349.99@immunex.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 20 In article <1993Jul13.102349.99@immunex.com>, rousseaua@immunex.com writes: > In article <1993Jul12.182753.14666@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >> In article <21n02l$fqc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks) writes: >>> Is it true that the pits of fruits such as peaches, plums, necterines, etcs. >>> contain a small amount of a cyanogenic compund such a cyanide? >>> If so, how much? How many pits would one have to consume before he >>> has a lethal dosage? > > I remember from my days as a girl on the farm that wilted cherry leaves were > said to be fatal to livestock. Urban legend (or is that "rural legend" :))? I > remember being puzzled that fresh leaves and dried leaves were not warned > against. Perhaps the wilted leaves contained more concentrated amounts of > cyanogenic stuff, while the toxins were broken down by the time the leaves were > actually dried. Has anyone else heard this? I'd have to hunt up the exact references, but this sounds like Prunus laurus- cerasius... In general, plants with cyanogenic leaves tend to produce more cyanogenic glycosides when the plants are stressed or damaged. Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:28:59 EDT 1993 Article: 19855 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: deadheading salvia Message-ID: <1993Jul14.203555.14784@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 14 Jul 93 20:35:55 -0600 References: <1993Jul13.172758.18770@ico.isc.com> <221f7dINNqs6@rave.larc.nasa.gov> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 18 In article <221f7dINNqs6@rave.larc.nasa.gov>, judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov writes: > In article <1993Jul13.172758.18770@ico.isc.com> carnes@ico.isc.com (Steve > Carnes) writes: > When I started deadheading my Oxford Blue salvia I noticed that low down > on the original flower stalks, two other small (spikes/buds/spike-buds?) > had begun to grow on either side. Inflorescence buds. You're absolutely right. > So I looked for these emerging whatevers > and cut just above them. That'll do it. You're likely to get more inflorescences developing this way if the plant thinks it's being treated right. On stressed plants, only one bud may develop into flowers, judging by some *very unhappy* Salvia farinacea in my garden.... (glub, glub) Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!hacgate!oracle2!deeds Sat Jul 24 12:29:00 EDT 1993 Article: 19856 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!hacgate!oracle2!deeds From: deeds@oracle2 (Deanna J. Deeds) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: just dry? Message-ID: <36022@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> Date: 14 Jul 93 20:25:04 GMT References: <1993Jul13.214903.14740@iscsvax.uni.edu> Sender: news@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM Reply-To: deeds@solaria.hac.com Lines: 12 X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL6] klier@iscsvax.uni.edu wrote: : Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI (anybody need some water? All you have : to do is move a stalled frontal system. : We'll gladly see it go.) Too bad you can't send it to drought-ridden California. I think of that every time I see the flood horror stories on the news this week. It made me laugh when you mentioned the rain gauge, too. :-) -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Deanna J. Deeds deeds@solaria.hac.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:29:01 EDT 1993 Article: 19857 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: More tomato questions Message-ID: <1993Jul14.204040.14785@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 14 Jul 93 20:40:40 -0600 References: <16C0BC157.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 18 In article <16C0BC157.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu>, MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu writes: > Rgearding my question about rotting tomatoes. Many have suggested > that my problem is blossom end rot and is due to inconsistent watering > patterns. However, we have been getting strange weather here in Indiana. > (as elsewhere). It will rain heavily one day, then be 90 degrees the next. > Then rain heavily again. What should I do with regards to watering the > tomatoes. If it rains heavily one day, should I water it at any time > during the week. Even if it gets to be 90 degrees the rest of the week, etc? Check the soil before watering. If it's still moist 6" down, your plants don't need more water. (they *really* don't need more water here in Iowa!)... If the tomatoes get the full brunt of the afternoon sun, you might want to rig up a shade on the southwest side of the plants -- something like a layer of muslin or such strung up volley-ball net style. I usually try to locate my tomatoes so they get partial afternoon shade... Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:29:01 EDT 1993 Article: 19858 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help - mold on clay pots! Message-ID: <1993Jul14.204829.14786@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 14 Jul 93 20:48:29 -0600 References: Followup-To: rec.gardens Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 30 In article , cyn@odin.mda.uth.tmc.edu (Cyndi Smith) writes: > To start off - I am a relative newcomer to growing stuff. > I bought some really pretty clay window boxes in which I planted > various herbs. The plants are all doing well, but the post look > awful. Some kind of green mold(?) is growing on them and if I > take a deep breath when working in the pots, whew! > Some points to note - Sounds like "pot scum": algae that are growing in the high humidity and snacking on the excess fertilizer you're feeding the plants. Clay pots are porous, and fertilizer just goes right through. We get pot scum +/- often in greenhouse situations, particularly on fern pots, african violet pots, and other plants we're growing in high humidity situations. The cure is to repot the plant into a clean pot, and soak the green pot in bleach and water solution, then scrub with a brown vegetable-fiber brush (they seem to work the best). Don't use detergent or lysol or whatever other cleaner you like -- it'll rinse out of that porous clay. And yes, you need to remove the plants before scrubbing. In your case, you might want to consider purchasing or making plastic liners for your pretty pots, and growing the plants in the liners. This will keep fertilizer from leaching through the sides of the porous clay pot, and will help reduce water loss during the day. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!batcomputer!munnari.oz.au!bruce.cs.monash.edu.au!monu6!eng2.eng.monash.edu.au!haines Sat Jul 24 12:29:02 EDT 1993 Article: 19859 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!batcomputer!munnari.oz.au!bruce.cs.monash.edu.au!monu6!eng2.eng.monash.edu.au!haines From: haines@eng2.eng.monash.edu.au (Andrew Haines, Civil, 1/113) Subject: Re: Hydrangea (shade OK) Message-ID: Lines: 41 Sender: news@monu6.cc.monash.edu.au (Usenet system) Organization: Faculty of Engineering, Monash University References: <21s8si$1mv@jericho.mc.com> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 00:54:26 GMT In article <21s8si$1mv@jericho.mc.com> linda@random.mc.com (Linda Kosidlo) writes: >Hi All -- >I have a hydrangea bush that I purchased through a mail order >catelog about three years ago. It bloomed and had very pretty blue >flowers, but now seems stunted and won't bloom again. I've moved it >around several times trying to find the best location for it. Some >people have told me it needs full sun, others say shade. Now I want to >ask real gardeners. The plant now is very small but has lots of healthy >looking leaves. Does it require a lot of water? It's now planted in a >shade garden, does it need more sun? Sounds like your plant is healthy enough, perhaps it just needs a good feed of a balanced fertiliser (ie one with potassium and phosphorous, not just a high nitrogen fertiliser which will only promote more leaves). Hydrangeas do like to be kept moist, and will let you know if they are too dry by drooping their leaves. Here in Melbourne (hot dry summers, cool wet winters (no snow), Hydrangeas do well in part or full shade and don't particularly like full sun because the flowers are susceptible to being burnt in summer (and I am also prone to forget to water them often enough :). In one way you are lucky with your "stunted" plant - I've just finished pruning (it's winter here remember) my Hydrangeas - all 20 of them - to stop them getting too leggy. Now, with regards to the colour of the flowers when you do get them: * In my experience it is true that the flower colour can be selected by altering the soil pH ie acid soil -> pink flowers; alkaline soil -> blue flowers. (But how to explain one of my bushes that had flowers of BOTH colours last year? :) * Colour intenity can be influenced by the amount of iron in the soil ie not much iron -> pale, washed out colours (which have their own charm); lots of iron -> deep, vivid colours. (An easy way to boost the iron content is to bury some steel-wool scouring pads near the roots, especially if they were used ones you were going to throw out :) Cheers, Andrew Haines \ "You're all individuals!" Computer Systems Officer \ "WE'RE ALL INDIVIDUALS!" Monash University, Melbourne, Australia \ "I'm not!" Monty Python:Life of Brian From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!AChamove Sat Jul 24 12:29:02 EDT 1993 Article: 19860 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!AChamove Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: coal ashes Message-ID: <1993Jul15.020945.28086@massey.ac.nz> From: AChamove@massey.ac.nz (A.S. Chamove) Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 02:09:45 GMT References: Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c Lines: 17 People say coal ash is not good for the garden although I cannot see why since coal is just old compressed wood. The organic people say it has high levels of sulfur and acids, but again we add sulfur here in NZ and acids are ok for lots of plants. My guess would be that coal ash would be OK if aged or on a compost heap. In scotland it is used on paths as it takes the slip out of the path, and seems to keep grass from growing. Paths made of earth. I guess it like cinders on snow in the midwest. -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Arnold Chamove, E-mail: AChamove@Massey.ac.NZ Massey University Psychology Dept. FAX: (+64) 6350-5611 Palmerston North, New Zealand Phone: (+64) 6356-9099 Ex.7924 Time Zone: GMT + 12.00 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!AChamove Sat Jul 24 12:29:03 EDT 1993 Article: 19861 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!AChamove Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: coal ashes Message-ID: <1993Jul15.020945.28073@massey.ac.nz> From: AChamove@massey.ac.nz (A.S. Chamove) Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 02:09:45 GMT References: Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c Lines: 17 People say coal ash is not good for the garden although I cannot see why since coal is just old compressed wood. The organic people say it has high levels of sulfur and acids, but again we add sulfur here in NZ and acids are ok for lots of plants. My guess would be that coal ash would be OK if aged or on a compost heap. In scotland it is used on paths as it takes the slip out of the path, and seems to keep grass from growing. Paths made of earth. I guess it like cinders on snow in the midwest. -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Arnold Chamove, E-mail: AChamove@Massey.ac.NZ Massey University Psychology Dept. FAX: (+64) 6350-5611 Palmerston North, New Zealand Phone: (+64) 6356-9099 Ex.7924 Time Zone: GMT + 12.00 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat Jul 24 12:29:03 EDT 1993 Article: 19862 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Figs: What Do I Do Next? Message-ID: <1993Jul15.014711.21809@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <93193.134952RSTJ3M@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 01:47:11 GMT Lines: 31 In article <93193.134952RSTJ3M@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> JE McLaughlin writes: >Can anyone tell me what to do with the figs after I grow them? that!> Specifically, I'd like to know how to prepare the figs the same way >you find them in the Italian deli: soft, chewy, w/ a sticky light brown syrup. >Must you boil them? Dry them? Is the syrup natural sugar or added? What next? I don't know what the Italian ones are like, but my grandmother preserved the best figs in the world. Rinse your figs and set on paper towels while you make a sugar syrup. I don't know proportions, but I think one cup water to 1-1/2 or 2 cups sugar might be about right (experiment with more or less sugar till you get a pleasant syrup). Boil until the sugar completely dissolves. Meanwhile, boil a bunch of jars. Pack the figs in the hot jars (not too tight; they shouldn't be mashed) and add a couple of cinnamon sticks and some cloves; a 2" strip of lemon peel adds a little zest but isn't strictly necessary. Pour the boiling syrup over the figs. My grandmother sealed old jam jars with melted paraffin, but using Ball jars with rubber rings works fine too. If you have room in the refrigerator, it's probably best to store the figs in it if you plan to keep them very long (the best-laid plans . . .). We kept ours in the pantry for several months with no trouble, though. You can eat the preserves on toast or in a dish as dessert; also good over ice cream. Of course, this recipe is only for the figs you can't eat fresh all at once! -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat Jul 24 12:29:04 EDT 1993 Article: 19863 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Transplanted Dogwood tree not doing to well.. Message-ID: <1993Jul15.015911.21948@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <1993Jul13.144847.7543@ichips.intel.com> <1993Jul13.213030.24058@ichips.intel.com> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 01:59:11 GMT Lines: 30 In article <1993Jul13.213030.24058@ichips.intel.com> dcovell@frx702.intel.com (David Covell - EPG) writes: >>Huh? Dogwoods don't like full sun? Funny, someone better tell that to the >>dogwoods around here (Knoxville, home of the Dogwood Arts Festiville). Most >>planted ones are put in full sun and they love it. Plus, they don't stand >>quite the risk of dogwood anthracnose that the ones in the shade do. >> >That might be the case in your part of the country where the humidity is >high in the summer but is definitely not true in dryer areas. Full sun >and the absence of shelter from the hot winds quickly fry dogwoods, japanese >maples, and other sensitive trees. There are millions of native dogwoods >in the California foothills but I have never seen even one growing without >the protection of taller trees. I've seen many attempts at growing them in >unprotected areas and the few that don't die look pathetic all summer long. >I have at least 10 gardening books at home and every one of them suggests >planting dogwoods only in partial shade. I'm glad for your sake that you >can do otherwise in Knoxville, but it's simply not the case in dryer areas. Humidity is only part of the answer. You can't get much more humid than Houston, and our dogwoods grew well only under the high shade of the pines--which, by the way, provided the lovely acid mulch dogwoods crave. Maybe there are different kinds of dogwoods, some of which can take sun? -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!alberta!fantom!ersys!Freddy!jerome.yuzyk Sat Jul 24 12:29:05 EDT 1993 Article: 19864 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!alberta!fantom!ersys!Freddy!jerome.yuzyk From: jerome.yuzyk@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca (Jerome Yuzyk) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: STUMPED again! Message-ID: <50.7243.1066.0N001395@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca> Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 12:38:00 -0520 Distribution: world Organization: Freddy's Place BBS - Edmonton, AB - 403-456-4241 Lines: 36 In a message dated 07-12-93, Klier@iscsvax.uni.edu said to All: Message-ID: <1993Jul12.212839.14690@iscsvax.uni.edu> Newsgroup: rec.gardens Organization: University of Northern Iowa >In article <1993Jul12.182825.1008@infonode.ingr.com>, >dianne@dianne.b24a.ingr.com (Dianne Ferrans) writes: > > Could someone here outline the various options I have for removing > tree stumps, and the related costs/pros/cons? >If you've got a couple of years, drill a bunch of deep holes in the top >surface of the stump (an 18" long "airplane drill bit" is great for this) >then go find some rotten wood someplace. Put the rotten wood in a blender >with some water, and mix it up well. Pour the resulting concoction into >the holes. If you live in a dry area, tarp the stump to keep the moisture >high. After 18 months to 2 yrs, you can kick most stumps apart. >I suppose you might be able to speed this up a bit by adding judicious >amounts of high N fertilizer-- however, the neighborhood dogs always >did this for us. Buttermilk in the holes works great, especially if the temperature is warm. Bacteria in the buttermilk (it's half-infected already) live well in the wood. You might need to top it up once a week for a while. .-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-. Jerome Yuzyk jerome.yuzyk@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca a boy and his doo-dads Edmonton Alberta Canada Life is a bifurcating chaotic attractor, and then you die. --- þ MR/2 1.41x NR þ Help stamp out, eliminate, and abolish redundancy! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling Sat Jul 24 12:29:05 EDT 1993 Article: 19865 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: Figs: What Do I Do Next? Message-ID: <1993Jul15.040407.13021@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: <93193.134952RSTJ3M@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> <1993Jul15.014711.21809@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 04:04:07 GMT Lines: 11 In article <1993Jul15.014711.21809@casbs.Stanford.EDU> kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) writes: > >I don't know what the Italian ones are like, but my grandmother >preserved the best figs in the world. [recipe deleted]. You can eat >the preserves on >toast or in a dish as dessert; also good over ice cream. That's my grandmother's recipe for preserving pears. Then eat the cold pears with cream cheese.... From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!moroney Sat Jul 24 12:29:06 EDT 1993 Article: 19866 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!moroney From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) Subject: Re: Fluorescent flower? Message-ID: Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA References: <1993Jul13.092524.28530@newstand.syr.edu> <1993Jul14.154825.3583@lsl.co.uk> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 04:35:58 GMT Lines: 15 clarke@lsl.co.uk writes: >Sorry - I think we lost the original news item here, but I've seen one >response suggesting Rose Campion. It sounds right to me too. >The latin name is Lychnis coronaria. It comes in a white form too, as >well as other cultivars from the seed merchants. I don't really see the >attraction of the white form myself, as the fluorescent flowers are >the main feature of the plant. Several other people stated it was probably Rose Campion as well. I looked it up in a book of American wildflowers and it wasn't listed but another Campion was (white?) and the flower looked the same except the color so I guess it's it. Found another clump of them in the woods as well. -Mike From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!world!moroney Sat Jul 24 12:29:06 EDT 1993 Article: 19867 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!world!moroney From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) Subject: Re: raccoons - help! Message-ID: Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA References: <1993Jul12.103259.18440@julian.uwo.ca> Distribution: na Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 04:39:08 GMT Lines: 11 tomb@lsid.hp.com (Tom Bruhns) writes: >Heh, heh, heh. I saw a TV documentary on how coons have adapted to >urban life. Seems like one favorite place to raise a family is on >the smoke shelf just above a fireplace. Yes, _inside_ the chimney. Yup. My father found a nest of them there in his summer cottage. He now places a heavy steel plate over the chimney as part of the routine of closing the place up. -Mike From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:29:07 EDT 1993 Article: 19868 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Phone Numbers/New addresses Message-ID: <1993Jul14.234012.14788@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 14 Jul 93 23:40:12 -0600 References: <221qm3INN9ha@hpsdlss3.sdd.hp.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 18 > > Does anyone have the correct addresses and phone numbers for the following > seed suppliers (the ones in the catalogs FAQs are wrong): > > Alfrey Seeds > (?Knoxville, TN) > > TOMATO SEED COMPANY > (?Metuchen, NJ) Hm.. I was just going over the catalog FAQ... thanks for finding the problems. If anyone else has spotted problems, please let me know so I can try to fix them. The 1992 Flower & Garden list doesn't have Alfrey, but shows Tomato Seed Co, Inc. at PO Box 323, Metuchen, NJ 08840. No phone given. Kay Klier klier@iscsvax.uni.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amusing!grace!Kathleen_Van_Horn Sat Jul 24 12:29:07 EDT 1993 Article: 19869 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amusing!grace!Kathleen_Van_Horn From: Kathleen_Van_Horn@grace.bah.rochester.ny.us (Kathleen Van Horn) Subject: Re: should our potted minirose drop its le Newsgroups: rec.gardens Summary: Minirose Keywords: Minirose X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] Message-ID: Date: 9 Jul 93 17:25:25 EST Organization: Graceful Boot BBS (send replies to User_Name%grace@moscom.com) Lines: 14 You might want to check for spidermites. They LOVE mini rose foliage. Check out the underside of the leaves, and if you see tiny webs, wash the plant in a mild soapy water solution, and then keep misting the foliage every couple of days. Make sure to get the undersides as well as the tops of the leaves. It's normal for roses to lose a few leaves now and then -- and your minirose might drop them all in the fall if the temperatures are cool enough --but they will soon grow back if this happens. It shouldn't be losing a lot of leaves regularly, though. Just a few thoughts; I don't know if this will be helpful at all... -- KVH (Kathleen Van Horn) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:29:08 EDT 1993 Article: 19870 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul15.001018.14789@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 15 Jul 93 00:10:18 -0600 References: <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 78 In article <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com>, sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger) writes: > So how wet is it in Iowa? Are the gardens that aren't underwater alright? > Kay? Those of us who are upstream of most of the floods are just damp and cool. I have had *1* tomato flower, and that on a sweet-100. Even the impatiens aren't growing much-- just too much cloudy weather... it's rained 42 of the last 45 days. Agriculturally, this summer is probably mostly a disaster to most farmers. The crops didn't get in on time, got washed out, got pounded flat, etc. Des Moines, my old home town, is the area that has probably been hit the hardest... they probably won't have potable water for at least a month, and that's if everything goes right. (Hint to folks who want to send relief supplies -- I keep hearing calls for porta-potties on the radio!) The Des Moines Water Works gets its water from shallow wells in a sand lens along the Raccoon River. The main treatment buildings were at least up to 5-drawer file cabinet levels--- but the main chlorination facility wasn't badly damaged, and there apparently were no major chemical spills. The Arie den Boer Crabapple Arboretum is *right* next to the waterworks... so it's under. It's also a national germplasm collection, as is the Ewing Lilac arboretum, which is on slightly hillier terrain, so may not be totally submersed. Last I heard, the Des Moines Botanical Center (geodesic dome on the Des Moines River floodplain) was still dry, but there were interior boils in the levees, and they didn't know how much longer it would hold. In the meantime, it's still raining, but folks are keeping their sense of humor pretty well. The Des Moines Register (their building was flooded, and their printing presses are below street level) is being printed at the Wall Street Journal press, and a couple of other sites.... anyhow... they ran a "It was so wet..." fill in the blank contest... My favorites: "so wet, we're outfitting the pigs with scuba masks" "so wet, we use Lysol instead of deodorant to keep from getting mildewed" "so wet, they're changing the state flower to Mildew" ... The best though, was an editorial cartoon, I think from the KC paper, showing the American Gothic couple (which was modeled in front of a house not far from the Mississipi River in Iowa)... and they're both standing there, stern, with the water over their heads, wearing snorkels and masks. Des Moines has the distinction of being the largest city ever to be completely without water. The fire marshall won't even let people work in buildings that are too tall for ladder trucks, since the sprinkler systems are caput, so many people are working from home, or working from another site, or just being told to stay home and help with the cleanup. If we don't have mass epidemics from contaminated water, this may leave us a little dented, but basically in OK shape... one of the nice things that seems to be coming out of this, is that Des Moines people, rich and poor, are finally figuring out they've got something very much in common... perhaps as things get rebuilt, people will remember their common humanity and erase some of the distinctions and differences in services that have divided some neighborhoods. Finally (back to gardening), there is a large population of Hmong families with truck gardens south of Des Moines. If I remember the terrain right, they should be OK, but if their crops are lost, it could be a low blow for the Hmong community. I haven't heard or read anything about them, but the Des Moines story has blown just about everything else off the airwaves and out of the paper. If there is further flooding, and you have an AM radio with good reception, you might try to pick up WHO (AM 1040), one of the clear-channel stations that boosts power way up at sundown... They've been one of the major information links throughout the flooding, but I noticed tonight they'd gone back to regular programming. Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!venice!gumby.dsd.trw.com!deneva!!miller Sat Jul 24 12:29:08 EDT 1993 Article: 19871 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!venice!gumby.dsd.trw.com!deneva!!miller From: miller@.etdesg.trw.com (Edward E. Miller) Subject: Re: STUMPED again! Message-ID: <2C44EAA2.6904@deneva.sdd.trw.com> Sender: miller@etdesg.trw.com (Edward E. Miller) Organization: TRW Inc., Redondo Beach, CA References: <50.7243.1066.0N001395@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 93 05:26:57 GMT Lines: 13 >> Could someone here outline the various options I have for removing >> tree stumps, and the related costs/pros/cons? > >>If you've got a couple of years, drill a bunch of deep holes in the top I have heard that stuffing holes in the stump and roots with garlic cloves (fresh) will hasten the decay of the stump and major roots. I haven't actually used this method, though. Just trying to help you avoid waiting a couple of years. Ed Miller miller@etdesg.trw.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!cs.ubc.ca!news.UVic.CA!camins.camosun.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ua098 Sat Jul 24 12:29:09 EDT 1993 Article: 19872 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!cs.ubc.ca!news.UVic.CA!camins.camosun.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ua098 Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: <1993Jul14.201253.305@camins.camosun.bc.ca> From: ua098@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Lois A Grimshaw) Date: 14 Jul 93 20:12:53 PDT Nntp-Posting-Host: freenet.victoria.bc.ca Lines: 12 At a Szechuan restaurant one evening, with tears streaming down my face and my mouth on fire, my mother-in-law Margaret gave me the solution to your problem: follow the hot stuff with a bit of sugar. Whether it's plain white sugar or a bit of an orange doesn't seem to matter, just about anything with sugar in it will take the heat away immediately. It works for me! -- If you think someone else will do it, so will they. Carpe diem! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:29:09 EDT 1993 Article: 19873 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Lobelia turning brown Message-ID: <1993Jul15.012517.14792@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 15 Jul 93 01:25:16 -0600 References: <21vbae$di0@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 21 In article <21vbae$di0@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu>, ghirarde@wam.umd.edu (Judith Ellen Ghirardelli) writes: > > Hi! I am a newbie gardener. I just have a patio, so I am > limited to window boxes, and have done well so far this year > with a variety of annuals. I have numerous Lobelia, and they > grew like crazy and had zillions of flowers. Well, now the > flowers are fading, and the Lobelia are turning brown. Some > are turning brown on the stems where the flowers are fading, > some are brown all over (although i believe the heat wave > here in DC fried *those* - these are in the front and get > more sun), and some are just dandy. > Do you have Lobelia erinus, the little "cascade" lobelia? It doesn't think much of hot weather around here, so that may be the problem you're having, too. When the hanging baskets of L. erinus in the greenhouse start looking too shabby, we just get out the scissors and do a "haircut", cutting everything back to about 3 or 4"... it *does* grow back and bloom again! Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!ai-lab!news.ai!flammia Sat Jul 24 12:29:10 EDT 1993 Article: 19874 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!ai-lab!news.ai!flammia From: flammia@lcs.mit.edu (Giovanni Flammia) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: irises Date: 14 Jul 93 22:19:01 Organization: MIT/LCS Spoken Language Systems Lines: 6 Distribution: rec Message-ID: Reply-To: flammia@lcs.mit.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: kuma.ai.mit.edu My irises are turning brown, have a sticky liquid at the base and white worms in the bulbs. Why and what can I do about it? Also, what is the best time to thin and transplant irises? Katy Flammia Arlington, Mass. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!spdcc!jfwhome!babs Sat Jul 24 12:29:10 EDT 1993 Article: 19875 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!spdcc!jfwhome!babs From: babs@jfwhome.FUNHOUSE.COM (Babs Woods) Subject: how to dry split garden peas? Message-ID: Organization: Our Lady of Perpetual Mirth (Pacifica) Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 03:10:46 GMT Lines: 14 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:19875 rec.food.cooking:52785 How do you dry whole peas as split peas? Is there some tool to use on the peas once they're shelled to split them for dried split peas (like for winter split peas soup)? Do you have to wait until they're half-dried, like cherries, to split them (with cherries you'd be squeezing out the stone)? Thanks in advance, -babs -- "Excuse me, while I dance a little jig of despair." - hadley@ics.uci.edu (Ted Hadley) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:29:11 EDT 1993 Article: 19876 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Can Peppers Cross-pollinate? Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 19:18:19 GMT Lines: 27 In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: >There was a previous posting on this topic, where someone wrote that >there was no problem the first year with the peppers, but after that the >crossings could and would occur... > >I have jalapenos, serranos, and Thai peppers all in close proximity this >year (and, for that matter, sweet bells). I'll know better next year... > >Gary Hypes I know that crossings can and will take place. What I can seem to dig out of my (too few, I'm afraid) reference materials is how to keep it from happening. I remember seeing some methods to prevent hybridizations lately so I'm sorry if everybody is sick of hearing about this) but what is the **easiest** way on a pepper plant? Is a wax paper bag attached over the bud OK? overkill? I have 27 varieties in close proximity, and since some of the seeds were expensive, I'd like to save some for next year. (If it's not too hard, I might even share with some of you pepper-pals!) BTW, Gary is correct that the first year peppers are "OK" but the seeds are not. Thanks in advance --Kim Fisher -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!sgiblab!daver!dlb!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:29:11 EDT 1993 Article: 19877 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!sgiblab!daver!dlb!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Tomato and nasturtium problems Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <1993Jul14.174111.6143@news.cs.brandeis.edu> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 06:55:09 GMT Lines: 43 In article <1993Jul14.174111.6143@news.cs.brandeis.edu> shavelson@binah.cc.brandeis.edu writes: >I'm growing tomatoes (I don't know what kind--the seedlings >at the nursery were unlabeled) in 5-gallon plastic buckets >on a balcony. >The problem: the leaves are curling longitudinally. They >leaves otherwise look dark green and healthy. There's no >other sign of disease or insects. Any ideas? Try adding dolomite lime to your soil - just sprinkle a little on top of the mulch before watering, as it dissolves when you water. CUrling leaves in all nightshades (at least in peppers, tomatoes and eggplants) can be a sign of lack of calcium and potassium, which the plants need to develop strong cell walls. We've also started adding Epsom salts to the remineralization of the garden, by spraying a solution on the pepper leaves (don't spray tomato leaves, as their pubescensce retains moisture and can cause fungus problems) and onto the ground around the plants. The magnesium in Epsom salts is also said to be important for nightshades. (Readers who recognize me from the Britcars list will no doubt understand when I say that the Dolomite alone was making it unbalanced, and I had to put some Mg back into the equation... urk) >The nasturtium problem is a repeat: no one responded the >first time, and the problem is continuing. The leaves are >turning yellow rapidly and then withering up. I've varied >the watering schedule and moved them in and out of the sun >(they're in pots, too). Nothing has made any difference. >There is no sign of aphids or other pests. Hmm. Ours just *do* that. We can't move them, as they're in the ground by the front door, but along about this time of year, no matter how much water we give them (and in California, up till last spring it's been a question of giving *enough*, not too much) they yellow and dry up about this time of year. --Scott "Answering for myself this time" Fisher -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!kday Sat Jul 24 12:29:12 EDT 1993 Article: 19878 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!kday From: kday@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Kevin Day) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Tomato problem revisited Message-ID: <39368@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 15 Jul 93 11:08:13 GMT Reply-To: kday@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Kevin Day) Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 24 First I want to thank everyone who responded to my call for help with my tomatoes. The problem I had was, just at the time my plants started to blossom, all the leaves curled up in tight little balls and all growth and blooming stopped. I received several good responses with possible reasons this was happening. I basically did nothing and suddenly one of the plants sprouted some new branches and is now blossoming again. I'm still looking for signs of recovery from my other plant but I've seen none yet. The second plant developed the leaf curling about a week or 2 after the first one so hopefully it will show signs of recovery soon. It sounds like maybe this was some sort of virus which was suggested by one person. Anyway, hopefully I'm back in business. Thanks to all. K. Scott Day (kday@oasys.dt.navy.mil) Carderock Division, Naval Surface Warfare Center Code 1252 Bethesda, Maryland 20084-5000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ * "The point to remember is that what the government gives * it must first take away." * -John S. Coleman ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!clesun!dbernard Sat Jul 24 12:29:13 EDT 1993 Article: 19879 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!clesun!dbernard From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Corny questions Date: 15 Jul 1993 11:53:55 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems Lines: 16 Distribution: world Message-ID: <223ggjINNb3j@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: clesun.central.sun.com Here goes: How long after the new corn cobs appear on the plant until they are mature? How long will the new appearing corn cobs be fertile- SOme of my plants seem to be producing sooner than others, and although I block-planted them, I'm worried that wind-born pollination might not work if they're not all fertile at the same time. And that age old question, how do you know when to pluck the cobs? I've heard the fingernail on the kernel test for plumpness/juiciness, but I've also heard that the disturbing of the husks to so test opens them to insect infestation, and also that the hybrid varieties do not show the same results. Thank you!! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!think.com!mac-jimmy-46.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co Sat Jul 24 12:29:13 EDT 1993 Article: 19880 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!yale.edu!think.com!mac-jimmy-46.dfci.harvard.edu!george_pearson.co From: George T. Pearson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Gardenia pests Date: 15 Jul 1993 12:44:34 GMT Organization: DFCI Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <223jfiINN713@early-bird.think.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac-jimmy-46.dfci.harvard.edu X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d24 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Thu, 15 Jul 93 08:45:39 GMT What on earth are these new critters on my beautiful gardenia? They simply appear to be little shells which start off light brown and get darker as they get bigger. When I pulled one off it seemed to be filled with powder. Is this like an aphid? Yesterday I tried picking off all that I could see and then spraying with that famous organic spray of dishwashing liquid and rubbing alcohol. Hopefully, that will help. Does anyone know what this pest is and how it should be treated? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!bach.udel.edu!jwilson Sat Jul 24 12:29:14 EDT 1993 Article: 19881 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!bach.udel.edu!jwilson From: jwilson@bach.udel.edu (Jim Wilson) Subject: Re: irises Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.udel.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: bach.udel.edu Organization: University of Delaware References: Distribution: rec Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 13:39:25 GMT Lines: 43 In article flammia@lcs.mit.edu writes: >My irises are turning brown, have a sticky liquid at the base and white worms >in the bulbs. Why and what can I do about it? Also, what is the best time to >thin and transplant irises? > >Katy Flammia >Arlington, Mass. It sounds as if the problem might be iris borers. They can show up wherever irises grow, but are particularly a problem for those of us in the northeast quadrant of the U.S. The larva are white, shaded with red above, with a brown head. They grow from about 3mm to 40mm. Unfortunately, they are hard to kill with chemicals when they get to this stage--better is to attack them when they hatch in the spring with either Cygon 2E or an organic control (Gardens Alive! sells some nematodes they claim are good for this). Probably the easiest approach at this point is to dig and discard the affected plants--lots of good replacements should be available about now, and then be sure to take countermeasures in the spring. If you desperately want to save a variety, then you might try digging the clump, discarding the worst parts, then submerge it in a tub of water for fifteen minutes or so to encourage them to float out, cut away remaining seriously damaged regions, sun-dry thoroughly (assuming we're working here with bearded irises), soak (maybe with agricultural streptomycin if rot is also a problem) and replant. Be sure to remove all old leaves and debris in the fall and the spring--you'll likely be carrying away eggs as you do so. For most of the U.S., July and August is the best time to divide bearded irises, although the southerners like to go into September. September works very well here in Delaware and many other areas for beardless varieties. Turning brown can be lots of things. Some withering of outside leaves is natural. You will also see brown spots where borers entered (if my guess is right). It is also common to have some bacterial soft rot where there are borers. Funguses can make brown too. You might check some iris books or the Ortho reference or, better, a local grower to confirm a diagnosis. -- Jim Wilson, Instructional Technology Center, University of Delaware Newark, Delaware 19716 jwilson@brahms.udel.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail Sat Jul 24 12:29:14 EDT 1993 Article: 19882 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail From: kohli@hal.med.ge.com (Jim Kohli) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: praying mantis Date: 15 Jul 1993 08:51:24 -0500 Organization: Agents of Darwin Lines: 14 Sender: daemon@cs.utexas.edu Distribution: world Message-ID: <9307151354.AA24174@aslmr-serv.med.ge.com> Reply-To: kohli@hal.med.ge.com NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu Hi, Much like most of the midwest, we have a plague of earwigs and much of the other things suggested don't have as much appeal as getting some insect "raptors" going in the garden. To this end, I'm interested in hearing any suggestions for acquiring some mantises for the garden. Does anyone know how I can get some egg cases? Is it too late for this year? Thanks for any info, Jim K. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!news.duc.auburn.edu!ducvax.auburn.edu!owen Sat Jul 24 12:29:15 EDT 1993 Article: 19883 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!news.duc.auburn.edu!ducvax.auburn.edu!owen From: owen@ducvax.auburn.edu Subject: Yet another tomato problem Message-ID: <1993Jul15.084004.1@ducvax.auburn.edu> Lines: 19 Sender: usenet@news.duc.auburn.edu (News Account) Nntp-Posting-Host: ducvax Organization: Auburn University, AL Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 13:40:04 GMT Lines: 19 I've got a problem with my tomatoes this year I've never seen before. My first fruits suffered from blossom end rot, but the plants have now recovered due to more consistent watering and/or leaching of excess nitrogen from my raised beds. The problem I'm having now is a sort of latitudinal splitting of skin of the fruits. When the splits first occur, they give the appearance of exposing a white membrane on the inside of the peel; at this point the splits vary from hairline to maybe 3/16 inch wide. If not picked right away, in a day or two the fruits will split wide open along these fissures, enough so that the seed cavities are exposed. Does anyone know a) what this is?, b) what causes it?, and c) what to do about it? Can it be eliminated from the remainder of *this* year's crop. Thanks. Larry Owen p.s. The splits occur as the fruits approach being ripe; ie. they are reddish, but not deep red. I, er, don't remember which variety(ies) I planted. The Romas in the adjacent bed are doing fine. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnewse!louie Sat Jul 24 12:29:16 EDT 1993 Article: 19884 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!cbnewse!louie From: louie@cbnewse.cb.att.com (louis.m.leciejewski) Subject: Re: Transplanted Dogwood tree not doing to well.. Organization: AT&T Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 14:19:01 GMT Message-ID: References: <1993Jul13.144847.7543@ichips.intel.com> Lines: 31 In article farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) writes: >In article <1993Jul13.144847.7543@ichips.intel.com> dcovell@frx702.intel.com (David Covell - EPG) writes: > >In article winterbs@ist.res.utc.com > >(Bruce S. Winters) writes: > >>We transplanted a Dogwood tree this spring and it is not taking the move to > >>well. Its about 20 feet tall. We moved it just before it bloomed. I've been > >>watering it fathfuly but the leaves are curling up and some are brown around > >>the edges. I haven't fertilized it yet except for the horse manure I mixed > >>with the soil before moving it. It gets full sun all day. Any suggestions? > > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > >I'd say the problem's right there; dogwoods like dappled shade rather than > >full sun. Consider their natural environment: underneath a canopy of taller > >firs, pines, etc. Curling and/or browning leaves on a dogwood or japanese > > >Huh? Dogwoods don't like full sun? Funny, someone better tell that to the >dogwoods around here (Knoxville, home of the Dogwood Arts Festiville). Most >planted ones are put in full sun and they love it. Plus, they don't stand >quite the risk of dogwood anthracnose that the ones in the shade do. > >Susan > >-- I agree 100% with Susan....Dogwoods I see around my Summer Cottage in Northern Indiana are in full sun and put on a real nice show each year. -- =============================================================================== Lou Leciejewski, WB9DKY - AT&T Bell Laboratories - att!ihlpm!loul (708)979-3382 =============================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!rigel.econ.uga.edu!moe.coe.uga.edu!joanm Sat Jul 24 12:29:17 EDT 1993 Article: 19885 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!rigel.econ.uga.edu!moe.coe.uga.edu!joanm From: joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan Maxfield UCNS) Subject: Re: Gardenia pests Message-ID: <1993Jul15.140312.28202@rigel.econ.uga.edu> Sender: news@rigel.econ.uga.edu Organization: University of Georgia, Athens References: <223jfiINN713@early-bird.think.com> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 14:03:12 GMT Lines: 28 In article <223jfiINN713@early-bird.think.com> George T. Pearson writes: >What on earth are these new critters on my beautiful gardenia? They >simply appear to be little shells which start off light brown and get >darker as they get bigger. When I pulled one off it seemed to be filled >with powder. Is this like an aphid? Yesterday I tried picking off all >that I could see and then spraying with that famous organic spray of >dishwashing liquid and rubbing alcohol. Hopefully, that will help. Does >anyone know what this pest is and how it should be treated? Good question! I want to know about this puppy too. I had them all over my poor little ficus. I ended up having to prune off all the branches that had the little shells on them and applied a nasty, bad for everyone, systemic insecticide. He's fine now, living outside and is slowly growing back new stems. I have to feel for the little ficus dude. We bought him knocked over and half dead at a Woolworths clearance sale for $5. We felt bad for him. I think he is happy though because he never dropped a single leaf untill he caught those bugs. I got and read the pseudo ficus faq that was floating around a while back and was just waiting for all the leaves to fall off and they never did! Joan -- Joan C. Maxfield * "Je Crois que je vais cracher une maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu * boule de poils" -Henri de la Barbe joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu * From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!aurora.LaTech.edu!brown.journ.latech.edu!user Sat Jul 24 12:29:17 EDT 1993 Article: 19886 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!aurora.LaTech.edu!brown.journ.latech.edu!user From: marymay@vm.cc.latech.edu (Mary May Brown) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Squash/Cucurbit Bugs Galore! Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 15 Jul 1993 15:20:21 GMT Organization: Louisiana Tech University Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: brown.journ.latech.edu Path: brown.journ.latech.edu!user From: marymay@vm.cc.latech.edu (Mary May Brown) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Followup-To: rec.gardens Distribution: world Subject: Squash / Cucurbit Bugs Galore! Message-ID: Organization: Louisiana Tech University In early spring I had the usual squash bugs / vine borers starting to mate. I kept close watch over them, killing each one I saw at first and thought I was doing a pretty good job, but know it's mid summer and they're everywhere... on almost every plant, from tomatoes, to sunflowers, to squash, etc. There are two varieties - one dark brown/black with a long slender body and another fatter, squattier with light green body and they are reproducing like crazy. Any ideas. Mine is an organic garden. Thanks, Mary Brown From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!news.mentorg.com!rreid!rreid Sat Jul 24 12:29:18 EDT 1993 Article: 19887 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!news.mentorg.com!rreid!rreid From: rreid@rreid.mentorg.com (Richard Reid) Subject: Lilac Seeds Message-ID: <1993Jul15.153511.29313@news.mentorg.com> Sender: rreid@rreid (Richard Reid) Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 15:35:11 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: rreid.mentorg.com Organization: mentor Keywords: seeds, propogation, Followup-To: Lines: 16 I have a bunch of seed that came off of my Mom-in-laws lilac and I wanted to see if I can grow it. Any hints? The seed pods are still green. Do they need to be dry? Do they need to have a period of dormancy? What temperature to break dormancy and so on ... Your help is appreciated -- Rick Reid rreid@.mentorg.com -- Mentor Graphics Corporation "If you think Jurassic Park is scary, you've never been to McDonaldLand with a bunch of two year olds." From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!news Sat Jul 24 12:29:18 EDT 1993 Article: 19888 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!news From: donath@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (Matt Donath) Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Sender: news@news.uiowa.edu (News) Message-ID: <1993Jul15.154544.7354@news.uiowa.edu> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 15:45:44 GMT References: <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: herky.cs.uiowa.edu Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA Lines: 8 >From article <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com>, by sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger): > So how wet is it in Iowa? Are the gardens that aren't underwater alright? Well, most of them are clearly not going to amount to much, but it is interesting to see plants gamely battling against the elements. I have corn that has been completely leveled and half unrooted 4 times by rapidly moving flood water, yet some of them have managed to stand up again for another round. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.byu.edu!yvax.byu.edu!cunyvm!rohvm1!rstj3m Sat Jul 24 12:29:19 EDT 1993 Article: 19889 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.byu.edu!yvax.byu.edu!cunyvm!rohvm1!rstj3m Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Figs: What Do I Do Next? Message-ID: <93195.175725RSTJ3M@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> From: JE McLaughlin Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 17:57:25 EDT References: <93193.134952RSTJ3M@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> Organization: Rohm and Haas Company Lines: 75 JUST in case anyone's interested, following is a fig recipe I plucked off the NET. I have several others, too. I'm STILL interested in knowing how the Italian deli's prepare their figs for selling: soft, flat, rubbery-chewy, syrupy-sticky... Do they dry-then-boil them in a syrup? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - XEDIT Digest: #88 Date: 15 Feb 91 12:54:02 EDT From: fac6@dayton.saic.com Subject: OVO: Fig Newtons When I get a package of Fig Newtons from the store, I can sit down and eat them all at one time. So, I searched for a recipe to make them. Here is a recipe that I use to make Fig Newtons. Let them set for a day and they taste just like the those from the store. This recipe is from ``COOKIES'' by HPBooks (page 122). (I substitute all-purpose flour for the whole-wheat flour.) WHOLE-WHEAT FIG BARS (Fig Newtons) ================================== Ingredients: 1/3 cup vegetable shortening 1 cup packed brown sugar 2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour 1 1/4 cups whole-wheat flour 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon grated orange peel Pinch of salt Fig Filling, see below Fig filling: 1 (8oz) pkg. dried figs, stems removed, chopped (I put them through the 2/3 cup water blender.) 3 tablespoons lemon or orange juice 3 tablespoons granulated sugar In a large bowl, beat together shortening, brown sugar, eggs and vanilla until creamy. Add all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour, baking soda, baking powder, orange peel and salt, beating until blended. Refrigerate dough 1 to 2 hours. Prepare fig Filling; set aside. To bake cookies, preheat oven to 375F (190C). Grease baking sheets. On a floured surface, roll dough into a 14-inch square. Cut dough into 4 equal strips, each 14 inches long and 3 1/2 inches wide. Spoon 1/4 of Fig Filling in a 1 1/2 inch wide mound down center of each strip. Using a long spatula, lift sides of each dough strip over filling, overlapping slightly on top. Press edges together to seal. Cut strips crosswise in half for ease in handling. Place, seam-side down, 3 inches apart on greased baking sheets. Brush off any excess flour. Cut each strip into 7 (1 inch) crosswise pieces, but do not separate. Bake 13 to 15 minutes or until puffed and firm to the touch. Cool 5 to 10 minutes on baking sheets; then cut apart and remove to racks to cool completely. Makes about 56 (2'' x 1'') cookies. FIG FILLING: ------------ In a medium saucepan, combine figs, water, lemon or orange juice and granulated sugar. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat and simmer 5 to 10 minutes or until thickened, stirring occasionally. Cool. PAT LEFELD fac6@dayton.saic.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews Sat Jul 24 12:29:19 EDT 1993 Article: 19890 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer) Subject: Re: "Noah's Garden", by Sara Stein (boundaries & limits) Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 15:39:19 GMT References: <21sge7$pgj@news.bu.edu> <21uk2j$b88@samba.oit.unc.edu> <221vnn$ho2@news.bu.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: jurassic.ch.apollo.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard Corporation, Chelmsford, MA Lines: 58 Thanks for taking the time to share that with us; it's interesting to hear how others make these trade-offs. In article <221vnn$ho2@news.bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: > And maybe I can someday convert the ChemLawn King to organic >maintenance, too. If you *do* manage to convert him, be sure to let us know your tactics! My neighbors are all faithfully subscribed to the "weed & feed" method. (Always seemed a strange combination to me, something like "caffeinated Nytol" or "fat-free lard".) On the few occasions that I've tentatively broached the subject of the safety of what they use (the neighborhood has many small children, both theirs & mine), the responses have always been flavored thus: "If it wasn't safe, they wouldn't sell it" (uh huh). The wholesale use of diazinon to control Japanese beetle grubs bothers me more ("We just keep the kids off for a day, and It'll Be Fine"). I've mentioned milky spore, which I use with some success, and they sound interested until you mention that it takes a couple of years to really take hold. "Oh. Well, maybe I'll put that down later this summer, after I spread some Nuclear-Grub-Napalm(tm) first to knock 'em down. We'll just keep the kids off for a day, and It'll Be Fine." > (Certainly I will be more successful if I can demonstrate >the benefits first hand -- unfortunately I'm still too new at it -- our >adjoining lawns are equally brown right now!) Well, those were my thoughts, but frankly, I never will have the verdant, mono-green lawn they crave. Hey, I hand-weed the dandelions from my lawn ("I just use weed & feed, and boom! they're gone", and "Hey, Steve, they make stuff to do that for you, you know"), but I actually *like* the odd white clover patches here & there ("Boy the clover's really bad in my yard this year. Oh, I see you have the same problem"). (My most irritating experience in this regard was a hand-written note on my door one day, from a local Chem-Lawn-wanna-be outfit, the gist of which was that my lawn was in a very sorry state, especially with its "unsightly white clover", but Don't Despair! 'cause Help Is Just A Phone Call Away! Grrrr. I nearly called to say how little I appreciated their unwelcome buttinsky opinions -- but what's the use? They'd never "get it".) I also use a slow-release fertilizer once or twice a year; I mow high; I make an effort to plant wildflowers (not all of which are native to New England, I must admit) that require little care and offer whatever bees & butterflies can survive the trip to my yard a little something; and I let my "unsightly" lawn go dormant brown rather than watering it into verdant, mono-green submission -- so I'm trying to be "planet friendly" in small ways, but who'm I kidding? That's not achieving the "look" the neighbors want, so how'm I setting an example for them? Besides, there's a limit to how much "persuading" I can do before it becomes an unwelcome obnoxion. At this point, if someone mentions that a particular planting in our yard looks nice, I try to work in an unobtrusive plug for pro-organic (or at least, minimalist toxic-chemical) gardening. Who knows; maybe someday it'll click. -- "I feel lightheaded, Sam. I think my brain | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com is out of air. But it's kind of a neat | /HP/org/chart/says/you/are/here feeling..." --Freelance Police | Massachusetts Language Lab From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!csn!stortek!cinnamon!norm Sat Jul 24 12:29:20 EDT 1993 Article: 19891 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!csn!stortek!cinnamon!norm From: norm@blackcat.stortek.com Subject: RIVER BIRCH need help Message-ID: <1993Jul15.142322.1569@stortek.com> Followup-To: norm@blackcat.stortek.com Originator: norm@cinnamon Keywords: river birch Sender: usenet@stortek.com Nntp-Posting-Host: cinnamon.stortek.com Organization: Storage Technology Corp. Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 14:23:22 GMT Lines: 11 Recently transplanted (6 weeks in ground) river birch (about 3 feet high and very thin trunks - i.e. "babies") were originally doing very well but now about 25% of the leaves are turning yellow, brown and crisping up. Any suggestions would be welcome! I think either too much or too little water? Any other ideas? Thanks Norm (norm@blackcat.stortek.com) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!mpcb Sat Jul 24 12:29:20 EDT 1993 Article: 19892 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!mpcb From: mpcb@netcom.com (Michael P.C. Bannan) Subject: Re: EARWIG INVASION Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) References: <21jute$pfa@terminator.rs.itd.umich.edu> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 16:21:31 GMT Lines: 14 We had the earwig problem about two months ago, and got it under control with the pieces-of-hose solution. We also encouraged birds into the garden (we don't grow corn) with small pots of bird seed. The earwigs were doing so much damage we didn't try to figure which method was most effective, but the hoses definitely got visible results. We've stopped with the hoses, and continue to feed the birds, with virtually no sign of earwigs in the garden now. (We do have to spend a lot more time weeding-out millet and sunflower seedlings from the bird seed, though!) The compost heap on the other hand, is alive with earwigs. Kinda creepy. As long as they stay there, I'll consider them beneficial, though. >From San Diego, Mike Bannan From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!langston.cs.utk.edu!langston Sat Jul 24 12:29:21 EDT 1993 Article: 19893 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!langston.cs.utk.edu!langston From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Date: 15 Jul 1993 16:46:11 GMT Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee Lines: 13 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2241kjINNsiu@CS.UTK.EDU> References: <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com> <1993Jul15.154544.7354@news.uiowa.edu> Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu matt donath writes: > I have corn that has been completely leveled and half unrooted 4 times > by rapidly moving flood water, yet some of them have managed to stand > up again for another round. looking at the broader picture, your crop may still be better off than the corn around here, where most sites have seen no appreciable rainfall since mid may...... -- mike langston department of computer science, university of tennessee From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!ghirarde Sat Jul 24 12:29:21 EDT 1993 Article: 19894 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!ghirarde From: ghirarde@wam.umd.edu (Judith Ellen Ghirardelli) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Lobelia turning brown Date: 15 Jul 1993 16:53:56 GMT Organization: University of Maryland, College Park Lines: 47 Message-ID: <224234$lrc@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> References: <21vbae$di0@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> <1993Jul15.012517.14792@iscsvax.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: rac1.wam.umd.edu In article <1993Jul15.012517.14792@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >In article <21vbae$di0@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu>, ghirarde@wam.umd.edu (Judith Ellen Ghirardelli) writes: >> >> Hi! I am a newbie gardener. I just have a patio, so I am >> limited to window boxes, and have done well so far this year >> with a variety of annuals. I have numerous Lobelia, and they >> grew like crazy and had zillions of flowers. Well, now the >> flowers are fading, and the Lobelia are turning brown. Some >> are turning brown on the stems where the flowers are fading, >> some are brown all over (although i believe the heat wave >> here in DC fried *those* - these are in the front and get >> more sun), and some are just dandy. >> > >Do you have Lobelia erinus, the little "cascade" lobelia? It >doesn't think much of hot weather around here, so that may >be the problem you're having, too. When the hanging baskets of >L. erinus in the greenhouse start looking too shabby, we just get >out the scissors and do a "haircut", cutting everything back to about >3 or 4"... it *does* grow back and bloom again! > >Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI Thanks for the info! I do have some L. erinus, and some unspecified which may or may not be L. erinus. I have noticed lately that the plants that look fine are the ones that bloomed later and the flowers have not started to fade yet. The ones that are turning brown are turning brown on the part of the plant where the faded flowers are. SO I think now that I should cut them back when they start to fade, and then won't have to deal with the stems turning brown. (this excludes the ones up front which were fried by the sun, I think). Now that the heat wave has broken, I will watch to see if they do better. THey have not gotten *worse* lately, and I think that I did not water them for a couple 100 degree days, so that might be the problem in itself. I will post any progress to the net garden for others who might be having similar problems. Thanks for your help Kay!! Judy G. -- "It's hard to be brave when you're a Very Small Animal." - Piglet From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!rutgers!njitgw.njit.edu!hertz.njit.edu!smt2626 Sat Jul 24 12:29:22 EDT 1993 Article: 19895 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!rutgers!njitgw.njit.edu!hertz.njit.edu!smt2626 From: smt2626@hertz.njit.edu (sylvia m tou mfen stnt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: bulb question Message-ID: <1993Jul15.161555.8286@njitgw.njit.edu> Date: 15 Jul 93 16:15:55 GMT Sender: news@njit.edu Distribution: usa Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, New Jersey Lines: 36 Nntp-Posting-Host: hertz.njit.edu I am thinking of planting some bulbs this fall. Due to my laziness, I am looking for bulbs that you just plant and forget and it will bloom year after year (at least for a few years). I know daffodils and crocuses will do this. What about tulips and hyacinths (not grape hyacinths) ? I was looking into a bulb catalogue and was also considering lilies, something called Persian blue allium, grecian windflower, and double poppy anemone. Are these bulbs that you plant and forget? (The occasional thinning/ relocation does not bother me). Any other suggestions on bulbs to plant and forget? Also is it better to buy the bulbs through a mail order or from a nursery? It seems the mail order is more expensive (especially with the extra P&H charge) but they do guarantee the bulbs will bloom (thought I don't know how good is their word). I realize this seems a rather extreme and silly question but here it goes. My husband has a salt water aquarium and about once a week, he changes the water, that is takes out about 7 - 10 gallons and replaces it with "fresh" salt water. With the old salt water, he just dumps it down the sink. Would there be any problem is I used it to water plants or at least dump it outside onto the grass or compost? The same applies to dishwater. Thanks. Please e-mail to either sylvia@teak.njit.edu or smt2626@hertz.njit.edu -- sylvia From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!kuhub.cc.ukans.edu!rcarmelo Sat Jul 24 12:29:22 EDT 1993 Article: 19896 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!kuhub.cc.ukans.edu!rcarmelo From: rcarmelo@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: More tomato problems Message-ID: <1993Jul15.114436.51785@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu> Date: 15 Jul 93 11:44:35 CST Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services Lines: 5 Have noticed my tomato plants bottom branches are all dying - the tops of plants look fine and are bearing plenty of fruit but the bottom branches are in bad shape - there of course has been alot of rain here (Lawrence KS) - any suggestions on what I should or should not do would be very much appreciated. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.cs.brandeis.edu!binah.cc.brandeis.edu!SHAVELSON Sat Jul 24 12:29:23 EDT 1993 Article: 19897 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.cs.brandeis.edu!binah.cc.brandeis.edu!SHAVELSON From: shavelson@binah.cc.brandeis.edu Subject: Re: raccoons - help! Message-ID: <1993Jul15.164549.26627@news.cs.brandeis.edu> Sender: news@news.cs.brandeis.edu (USENET News System) Reply-To: shavelson@binah.cc.brandeis.edu Organization: Brandeis University References: <1993Jul12.103259.18440@julian.uwo.ca> , Distribution: na Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 16:45:49 GMT Lines: 8 My in-laws had raccoons living in their chimney. They called an exterminatory, who placed an extremely loud boom box in the fireplace, then went outside to see the raccoons scrambling out of there! He was then able to clean out the chimney and cover the opening. Susanne [whoops--exterminator, not exterminatory] From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!rutgers!njitgw.njit.edu!hertz.njit.edu!smt2626 Sat Jul 24 12:29:23 EDT 1993 Article: 19898 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!rutgers!njitgw.njit.edu!hertz.njit.edu!smt2626 From: smt2626@hertz.njit.edu (sylvia m tou mfen stnt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: coldframe alternative update Message-ID: <1993Jul15.170732.9001@njitgw.njit.edu> Date: 15 Jul 93 17:07:32 GMT Sender: news@njit.edu Distribution: usa Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, New Jersey Lines: 19 Nntp-Posting-Host: hertz.njit.edu I realize this posting is kind of late but I just got back from maternity leave and wanted to let those who were interested in my coldframe alternative. First of all as to my posting for suggestions of coldframe alternatives, the only responses I got were those who wanted me to forward my responses. What I did was use a wooden crate, let it outside in a sunny covered area with a piece of viscreen (spelling?) ( heavy piece of transparent plastic ) over the the top. (In my case is was a south facing porch) The crate was solid on all sides (and wieghed a ton). When the weather was 60 and above, I took the plastic off the crate, otherwise at night and below 60, I kept the plastic on. This seemed to work quite well. Almost all the seedlings I had in there did well once they were planted outside; zinnias, sweet pea, impatiens, assorted vegetables, all except for verbena. -- sylvia From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!tmh1 Sat Jul 24 12:29:24 EDT 1993 Article: 19899 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!tmh1 Organization: Penn State University Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 13:38:23 EDT From: Tina Hay @ Penn State Message-ID: <93196.133823TMH1@psuvm.psu.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Flowers flop over in rain; never get back up Lines: 11 Why are my flowers so wimpy about rain? I have a nice bed of tall snapdragons, Calif. poppies, and bells of Ireland, and the minute we get even a brief, moderately hard rainfall, they all flop over. I go out and try to shake some of the excess water off, but despite this, they never seem to be the same again -- they stay flopped over. Is this normal? Or is there something about the flowers or the quality of the soil that makes this happen? Tina M. Hay College of Health and Human Development, Penn State (814) 863-4325 / tmh1@psuvm.psu.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!meaddata!barb Sat Jul 24 12:29:24 EDT 1993 Article: 19900 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!meaddata!barb From: barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Date: 15 Jul 1993 17:01:27 GMT Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com> References: <1993Jul14.174734.30867@rchland.ibm.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: moe.meaddata.com In article <1993Jul14.174734.30867@rchland.ibm.com>, james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) writes: |> I would certainly be open to any canning questions. You're on! Question number one: Should a rank beginner look for the Ball Blue Book on canning, is that the right name, does it still exist, and does anyone know the address to send for it? (OK, that was four questions.) I will soon have the tomatoes from 10 tomato plants ripening, and after two weeks of "tomato lust" (Garrison Keillor's term, not mine), will need to find a way of preserving them. I have jars, lids, and a canner (I THINK it's a canner - it's a big aluminum pot tall enough to put the jars in, fill with water to cover the jars by an inch or two, and still close the lid). Thanks in advance! -- Barbara Bruns Technical Communications & Education The opinions expressed here by me are not necessarily those of Mead Data Central; nor would they much care about the things about which I have opinions. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!rk30+ Sat Jul 24 12:29:25 EDT 1993 Article: 19901 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!rk30+ From: Ruth Kline Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: praying mantis Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 14:06:51 -0400 Organization: Information Services, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 9 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <9307151354.AA24174@aslmr-serv.med.ge.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: andrew.cmu.edu In-Reply-To: <9307151354.AA24174@aslmr-serv.med.ge.com> I happen to have a Gurney's catalog here in my desk at work and find that they have a selection of beneficial insects, but no information as to when they stop shipping them. BTW, Gurney's is located in South Dakota -- that means they are in agricultural zone 4. The Praying Mantis is $8.99 for three egg cases (300 eggs per case). You might want to give them a call. They have a customer service help line at 1-605-665-1671. Disclaimer: I have no connection to Gurney's -- just trying to help a fellow gardener. -- Ruth Kline, Carnegie Mellon University From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnews!bigtop!zuckuss!seb1 Sat Jul 24 12:29:25 EDT 1993 Article: 19902 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnews!bigtop!zuckuss!seb1 From: seb1@dr.att.com (Sharon Badian) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: "Noah's Garden", by Sara Stein (boundaries & limits) Message-ID: Date: 15 Jul 93 17:39:58 GMT References: <21sge7$pgj@news.bu.edu> <21uk2j$b88@samba.oit.unc.edu> <221vnn$ho2@news.bu.edu> Sender: news@bigtop.dr.att.com (Netnews Administration Login) Reply-To: seb1@dr.att.com Organization: Bell Labs, Denver, CO. Lines: 69 My philosophy on gardening is very much the same. I believe that we ask too much of this earth in terms of recovery from abuse, particularly when it comes to dumping chemicals on our lawns and gardens. I'm not saying that you should never use them. They do have their place. But continual routine application for that perfect lawn or perfect whatever is just too much for me. I use chemicals (organic or man-made) to get rid of pests as a last resort. I'll try more environmentally friendly methods first. Also, we have drastically changed the landscape in most places that people live. I feel it is important to give a little "wilderness" back to the animals and plants that share this place with me. I live only 2 miles from downtown Boulder (but also only 2 miles from open space which is closer to its natural state). I want my little bit of suburban yard to be a friendly place to the animals that pass through. In fact, I would like more of them to stay, nest and be happy. So, I look for plants that are good at attracting wildlife. I also like native plants though I'm not a stickler about that. I won't put in anything that can become invasive though. That seems to be less of a problem here in Colorado than it was in NJ because of the low rainfall. Most of the nasty invasive things are definitely weeds and not something I would usually WANT to grow. I live in a part of the country that gets little rainfall (about 15" a year or so), so I try to select plants that don't need lots of extra water, except for plants that produce food for me. I'm willing to spend a little water for some nice tomatoes or raspberries. But, I try to grow them in a waterwise way. I really should be saying "I will." Right now my yard is a typical yard with grass that we hate mowing and that requires a lot of water. A landscape architect is coming over on Monday and we're going to start redesigning the yard, in keeping with my goals. Practical things are: we need to fence in the backyard for the dog and the little kid we built last summer. Most of the backyard is already enclosed because there is a fence at the back (because we back to the parking lot for some townhomes) and the side (my neighbor's fence) and a shed on the other side. There really isn't much to enclose, but it would make my life much easier if we could just let the dog out in the backyard instead of having to tie her up. And, I think she would like the increased freedom too. I need room for my vegetable garden. Right now I don't have one unless you consider the small herb garden off the patio and the one tomato plant in a container a vegetable garden. :-) I want a bigger one and I want it to look nice because it will probably go in the front yard (away from the aforementioned dog). Like I said earlier, if I'm going to expend water to grow something, I want to get something back. And, I get such a satisfying feeling when I can go out in my yard and pick peas or tomatoes or peppers. I had a garden in NJ and I miss it. On the water question, you folks in the northeast don't know nothing about water! Sure, you go through dry spells but it is so wet there compared to Colorado that you can grow anything regardless of the water demands. Most of the year in most years it will survive on the rainfall you get naturally. If we don't water here, a lawn with dry up and blow away in 2 weeks. I'm not kidding! California is under the same sort of conditions. If you don't have a sprinkler system, you do the sprinkler dance, moving it around your yard from April until September. Where I grew up north of NYC, NO ONE had a sprinkler system and I don't remember any lawns dying from lack of water. I remember one wet year the lawn drowned, but that's another story! -- Sharon Badian AT&T Bell Labs - Denver seb1@dr.att.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!rcm Sat Jul 24 12:29:26 EDT 1993 Article: 19903 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!rcm From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: praying mantis Date: 15 Jul 1993 19:04:37 GMT Organization: where? Lines: 21 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2249o5$q46@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: <9307151354.AA24174@aslmr-serv.med.ge.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0.7] Jim Kohli (kohli@hal.med.ge.com) wrote: : Hi, : Much like most of the midwest, we have a plague of earwigs : and much of the other things suggested don't have as much : appeal as getting some insect "raptors" going in the garden. : To this end, I'm interested in hearing any suggestions for : acquiring some mantises for the garden. Does anyone know : how I can get some egg cases? Is it too late for this year? Gardens Alive! has them, $7.95 for 3 egg cases, $13.95 for 7, $24.95 for 15. They also sell them with stems attached for slightly more $$. Gardens Alive! 510 Schenley Place Lawrenceburg, IN 47025 Order Line: 812-537-8650 Rick "Will NOT eat earwigs for food" Myers From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae Sat Jul 24 12:29:26 EDT 1993 Article: 19904 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: Strange creature on basil Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 18:44:00 GMT Lines: 26 In article pfritsch@skid.ps.uci.edu (Paul Fritschle) writes: >Was out picking some basil following a heavy rainstorm, when I found >an odd wormy looking thing on a leaf. It was a good 2-3 inches long, >and extremely slender.. maybe as thick as a whisker. One end of it was >a pale whitish-yellow (maybe half an inch), while the rest of it was >black. The whole thing squirmed about, and was most tenacious in >resisting being pulled off the leaf. Could this beastie be what is >nibbling holes in my basil leaves? And what the heck is it? I've never >seen anything like it before in my life!!! It may well be a nematode called a "rain worm". There was a letter in the Q&A of Canadian Gardening magazine about this recently. These are harmless soil-dwelling critters that sometimes climb vegetation after a rain. They (at least the ones up here) can get up to 4" (10cm) long. There is an old superstition that they are spontaneously generated from horse hairs, which they resemble. They eat decaying plant material in the soil. A few weeks after I read about these worms, I saw a few in my garden after a rainstorm. My guess is that slugs are eating your basil, but that's a good guess for any irregular holes in non-prickly leaves. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!news Sat Jul 24 12:29:27 EDT 1993 Article: 19905 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!news From: os2user@brdiller.houston.ibm.com (Barry Diller) Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Sender: news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 20:02:55 GMT Lines: 43 Reply-To: brdiller@vnet.ibm.com (Barry Diller) Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM. References: <1993Jul14.174734.30867@rchland.ibm.com> <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: brdiller.houston.ibm.com Organization: IBM Federal Sector Services Company, Houston, Texas X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v0.20 by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers In <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com>, barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) writes: >In article <1993Jul14.174734.30867@rchland.ibm.com>, james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) writes: >|> I would certainly be open to any canning questions. > >You're on! > >Question number one: Should a rank beginner look for the Ball Blue >Book on canning, is that the right name, does it still exist, and does anyone >know the address to send for it? (OK, that was four questions.) > >I will soon have the tomatoes from 10 tomato plants ripening, and after two >weeks of "tomato lust" (Garrison Keillor's term, not mine), will need to find >a way of preserving them. I have jars, lids, and a canner (I THINK it's a >canner - it's a big aluminum pot tall enough to put the jars in, fill with >water to cover the jars by an inch or two, and still close the lid). > >Thanks in advance! > >-- >Barbara Bruns Technical Communications & Education > > The opinions expressed here by me are not > necessarily those of Mead Data Central; > nor would they much care about the things > about which I have opinions. And that brings to mind a couple of home canning questions I have as well... My wife and I make salsa and spaghetti sauce from my tomatoes. We've used a hot water bath to seal our sauces in mason jars, and so far everything has turned out well. I mean, we're still alive :-) after eating from some jars that we canned 8 - 9 months previously. Question 1: How can I tell if my salsa or spaghetti sauce is acidic enough for hot water bath canning? Does someone sell litmus paper for this purpose, or are there any rules-of-thumb I can go by? Question 2: Assuming my spaghetti sauce is acidic enough for hot water bath canning, can I get into trouble if I add sugar to make the sauce sweeter? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Barry R. Diller IBM Federal Sector Sevices Company EMail address: brdiller@vnet.ibm.com Houston, Texas USA From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams Sat Jul 24 12:29:27 EDT 1993 Article: 19906 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams) Subject: drought Message-ID: <1993Jul15.142517.452@hemlock.cray.com> Lines: 11 Nntp-Posting-Host: cherry10 Reply-To: dadams@cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Date: 15 Jul 93 14:25:16 CDT Say, Kay, are we still going to have that drought? --- David, N0WWN --David C. Adams Statistician Cray Research Inc. dadams@cray.com -Sourdough and Ham- - Minnesotans for Global Warming! - (&gardner) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!tomm Sat Jul 24 12:29:28 EDT 1993 Article: 19907 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!tomm From: tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Sender: news@cupnews0.cup.hp.com (News Admin) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 21:09:31 GMT References: <1993Jul14.174734.30867@rchland.ibm.com> <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com> <1993Jul15.192323.36352@rchland.ibm.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: hpindadb.cup.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0.7] Lines: 42 Various written comments: : |> a way of preserving them. I have jars, lids, and a canner (I THINK it's a : |> canner - it's a big aluminum pot tall enough to put the jars in, fill with : |> water to cover the jars by an inch or two, and still close the lid). Yup, its a canner. : Canning tomatoes is easy. You can simply blanch them and slip the skins off : and drop them into jars. Put on lids and rings and hot water bath. I was always taught: blanch & remove skins. stuff into clean jars (use wide mouth - its easier) fill with hot water within an inch of the top put NEW lids on (The screw top can be as old as you want, just make sure the gaskets are new) Tighten and then back off a quarter turn to allow hot air out while boiling. Put jars into boiling water, and boil for 45 minutes. Take them out and tighten the lids. You will hear this really satisfying 'plink' in 5 to 10 minutes as the air in the jar cools and sucks the lid down. That's when you know it is airtight. : (Comments about sauces...) Don't add sugar. Its the acidity in the tomatoes that protects you. And use a pressure cooker if you are canning anything with meat in it. Otherwise we are talking botulism. Freezing sauces works well, I think, and you don't have to worry about cooking food into a mush with a pressure cooker. Tom McNeal ------------------------------------------------------------------- tomm@hpindada.cup.hp.com Tom McNeal at Hewlett-Packard's Information Networks Division 19410 Homestead Rd., M.S. 43LN, Cupertino, CA 95014 (408)447-2300 ------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Sat Jul 24 12:29:29 EDT 1993 Article: 19908 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Lobelia turning brown Message-ID: <1993Jul15.123857.1475@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 15 Jul 93 20:38:56 GMT References: <21vbae$di0@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> Organization: - Lines: 30 In article <21vbae$di0@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu>, ghirarde@wam.umd.edu (Judith Ellen Ghirardelli) writes: > > Hi! I am a newbie gardener. I just have a patio, so I am > limited to window boxes, and have done well so far this year > with a variety of annuals. I have numerous Lobelia, and they > grew like crazy and had zillions of flowers. Well, now the > flowers are fading, and the Lobelia are turning brown. Some > are turning brown on the stems where the flowers are fading, > some are brown all over (although i believe the heat wave > here in DC fried *those* - these are in the front and get > more sun), and some are just dandy. > > Before you ask, I have some that take sun, and some that take > partial shade, and I have put them appropriately. > > So my question is, what am I doing wrong? [rest of post deleted] I say you are doing nothing wrong. Your description of your lobelia sounds pretty typical for lobelia at this time of the summer...some die suddenly, some die slowly, some do fine. The browning does seem to be somewhat related to the heat. In general lobelia doesn't like to ever totally dry out. However, I have several volunteers that are growing in pots with cacti and they are doing fine. I have others that are in shade with plenty of moisture that have given up. On the partially brown ones, you may want to check around the soil of the plant for cutworms. I usually have some cutworm problems with lobelia in the summer. Jim From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!bach.udel.edu!jwilson Sat Jul 24 12:29:29 EDT 1993 Article: 19909 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!news.udel.edu!bach.udel.edu!jwilson From: jwilson@bach.udel.edu (Jim Wilson) Subject: Re: irises Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.udel.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: bach.udel.edu Organization: University of Delaware References: <224d3r$8tb@news.bu.edu> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 21:40:24 GMT Lines: 44 In article <224d3r$8tb@news.bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >So, Jim -- any preventative measures we start-up iris growers can take to >reduce the likelihood of borers attacking our investments?? > [There must me an iris analog to the old conductor's saying, "Never look encouragingly at the trombone section."] OK, here goes: 1) Move to Colorado, or one of those big states out that way. 2) Be sure what you are planting is borer-free. Look for entry holes on leaves and/or pieces of the rhizome bored out. 3) Do what is reasonable to avoid rot. For mustard seed fungus or crown rot, if that is a problem, a new planting is a good chance to do a thorough treatment with Terraclor. I usually do without that, but lots of areas in the south have reported problems of this sort. To inhibit bacterial soft rot, I usually add some agricultural streptomycin to my pre-soak water. In any case, do the cultural things you should do avoid this rot--sunny location, good air circulation, good drainage, rhizomes not too deep, not too much nitrogen around, etc. 4) In the fall, do a very thorough cleanup. Some people used to burn over the entire site, but that's a drastic step; I like seeing some green, and maybe the plants like it being there too. Repeat early spring. 5) In the spring, when new leaves are about 6", do your attack thing, whether it is spraying with Cygon 2E or Lindane or unleashing the nematodes. This is often mid-late April here. Repeat in 10-14 days. If any escape that, you may be able to see them working their way down through the leaf and then you can then undertake hand-to-hand combat. 6) When you cut stalks off, cut them close to the ground on a dry day. 7) If you are a good moth hunter, you could patrol your beds at dusk in October. :) I've never caught one myself, though I've seen some. My first few years went just fine doing less than half of this stuff, and I did find a few borers one year, but it wasn't the end of the world by any means. Some people only spray if they have seen a problem, and others spray as a preventive measure, and others would never think of spraying, so pick your philosophy and away you go. If others have other good tips I've missed here, we'd all welcome them. -- Jim Wilson, Instructional Technology Center, University of Delaware Newark, Delaware 19716 jwilson@brahms.udel.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!maczack.stanford.edu!karen Sat Jul 24 12:29:30 EDT 1993 Article: 19910 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!maczack.stanford.edu!karen From: Karen Zack Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Something's killing my zucchini plants! Date: 15 Jul 1993 21:47:05 GMT Organization: Stanford Data Center Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <224j8p$6pe@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: maczack.stanford.edu X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Thu, 15 Jul 93 19:56:54 GMT I didn't see a FAQ on rec.gardens, and and I'm taking my first stab at growing a couple of zucchini plants this year. There's some kind of fungus or something growing on the leaves, and it's withering the plant away. I've had several blooms on it, but no fruit has appeared. I have a feeling something has gone wrong...is there anything I can do to get rid of this fungus-thing, preferably something pesticide-free (if there's such a thing!)? Is there a FAQ that I should get hold of to keep my silly questions at bay? Many thanks, Karen Zack karen@forsythe.stanford.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!mcsun!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat Jul 24 12:29:30 EDT 1993 Article: 19911 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!mcsun!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Subject: Wet weather woes (Was: just dry?) Message-ID: Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University References: <1993Jul13.214903.14740@iscsvax.uni.edu> <36022@hacgate.SCG.HAC.COM> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 21:25:03 GMT Lines: 30 >klier@iscsvax.uni.edu wrote: >: Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI (anybody need some water? All you have >: to do is move a stalled frontal system. >: We'll gladly see it go.) deeds@oracle2 (Deanna J. Deeds) writes: >Too bad you can't send it to drought-ridden California. I think of that >every time I see the flood horror stories on the news this week. >It made me laugh when you mentioned the rain gauge, too. :-) You can have our rain, too. My petunias are smelling funny, a sickly sweet-sour scent. I suspect that the flowers are rotting in the never-ending rain. The pauses between the rains haven't been long enough for me to start clipping the Ribes alpinum hedge that is getting way out of bounds, but today I hurried out and sprayed some pyrethrum on the aphids' party. 30 minutes later it rained again. I wonder if they even noticed, feasting as they are on my mallows. The good thing about it is that everything is absolutely brimming with buds so if the sun would peek through, everything would start blooming like there's no tomorrow. That is, if the sun _would_ peek through. We're still hoping. Or maybe the weather is catching up from last summer, which was the worst drought since the Swedes started logging in seventeenhundred-something. *sigh* --Ceci, with wet feet -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== "Grandfather was a tree." Opening sentence of _Hearts, Hands and Voices_ by Ian McDonald =================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn Sat Jul 24 12:29:31 EDT 1993 Article: 19912 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn From: dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Date: 15 Jul 1993 22:22:54 GMT Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences Lines: 28 Message-ID: <224lbu$de4@morrow.stanford.edu> References: <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com> <1993Jul15.192323.36352@rchland.ibm.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pangea.stanford.edu In article tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) writes: > [lots of good advice deleted] > > >: (Comments about sauces...) > >Don't add sugar. Its the acidity in the tomatoes that protects you. Sugar doesn't affect acidity. For instance, lemons have more sugar in them than most other fruits, but they are most definitely acidic. As long as you aren't using a tomato variety advertised as being "low-acid," and as long as you aren't adding baking soda or other base, your tomato sauce will be plenty acidic to can by water bath. >And use a pressure cooker if you are canning anything with meat in >it. Otherwise we are talking botulism. I am not sure about this. Does anyone know it cooking meat in an acidic sauce is sufficient to retard botulism? You might post this question to rec.foods.cooking, and ask Shankar, the resident food chemist. Dawn From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!rigel.econ.uga.edu!moe.coe.uga.edu!joanm Sat Jul 24 12:29:31 EDT 1993 Article: 19913 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!rigel.econ.uga.edu!moe.coe.uga.edu!joanm From: joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan Maxfield UCNS) Subject: white fly wasp? Message-ID: <1993Jul15.221347.9565@rigel.econ.uga.edu> Sender: news@rigel.econ.uga.edu Organization: University of Georgia, Athens Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 22:13:47 GMT Lines: 32 Ok, Ok, I'll admit it, I ignored the posts about that nifty new wasp that eats whitflies. I have the addres for Gardens Alive! but I wouldn't know what to ask for. I would call but my phone is out. Does anyone remember what they are? How many would I need for say 5 or 6 infested bushes? I'm pretty sure the whole neighborhood is infested but I am more concerned about my not being able to walk near the bushes without inhaling mass quantities of little whiteflies! Would I need to get enough to clean up the neighborhood? Will they fly into the bug zapper? Oh, another question Iv'e been meaning to ask. We live near a small creek of some sort, never seen it, only heard the frogs. We have lots of dragonflies and lightning bugs (in CT we called them fireflies, in GA they are 'lightnin' bugs') and LOTS of mosquitoes. We bought a bug zapper and hoped the 'good guys' (dragons and fireflies) don't climb in but it still isn't helping with the gnats and mosquitoes. Anyway, while talking to my neighbors the other night we watched while about 5 bats feasted above my house and (we) started discussing the idea of putting some bat houses up around 'our' end of the street. Does anyone have planes for these? I know the shape on the outside but is there anything on the inside like dowels to hang from? Or is the wood just roughed up? I like the idea of helping out a poor misunderstood mammal in favor of those nasty blood sucking vermin. Any ideas, tips, book references, and plans would be appreciated. Thanks a ton! Joan -- Joan C. Maxfield * "Je Crois que je vais cracher une maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu * boule de poils" -Henri de la Barbe joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu * From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat Jul 24 12:29:32 EDT 1993 Article: 19914 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!eru.mt.luth.se!kth.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Subject: Re: Propagating hollyhocks Message-ID: Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University References: Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 21:30:39 GMT Lines: 26 >In article , bermes@cbnewsc.cb.att.com >(Terry Bermes) wrote: >> >> >> This year I intend to propagate some new hollyhocks from seed >> to that I can grow them where I want rather than simply letting the >> volunteers grow where they may. Does hollyhock seed require any kind >> of cold treatment before they'll germinate? >> >> Terry rainford@uniwa.uwa.edu.au (Anna Rainford) writes: >Mine didn't. I just collected dry seeds from the plant, stored them in a >dry paper bag and sowed them in autumn. I'm in Perth West Australia by the >way, so it`wasn't exactly cold in the shed where I stored them! The parent >were F1 though, so I'll be interested to see what the flowers from the >seedlings will look like. I'd really like to have pink hollyhocks, but I've never seen anything but mixed colours seed offered. How do you do to get hollyhocks of only one colour? Or is someone secretly offering single colour seed on the black market for us mallow junkies? ;) --Ceci -- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!usc!usc!not-for-mail Sat Jul 24 12:29:32 EDT 1993 Article: 19915 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!usc!usc!not-for-mail From: marks@arcturus.usc.edu (Louise Marks) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Need Help with Tomatoes Date: 15 Jul 1993 16:27:36 -0700 Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA Lines: 24 Sender: marks@arcturus.usc.edu Message-ID: <224p58$fsu@arcturus.usc.edu> References: <16C0ADD57.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> <1993Jul14.095908.14214@walter.cray.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: arcturus.usc.edu gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: >|> Re: end rot on tomatoes. >This problem is also aggravated by too much nitrogen and moist >conditions at the start of the growing season followed by >hot dry weather. The REAL problem is a metabolic disorder >of tomatoes whereby they can't effectively transport calcium >to the developing fruits. [...] Somewhere I learned to disolve epsom salts in water (1 Tbl/gallon) and spray on the tomato foliage. The magnesium is supposed to help with calcium uptake, or some such voodoo. Now, if this sounds cracked, please don't flame me. I may be misremembering the chemistry involved. Anyway it seems to work. -- ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// / Louise Marks Internet: marks@skat.usc.edu / / University of Southern California BITNET: marks@uscvm / ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.claremont.edu!ucivax!megatek!redman Sat Jul 24 12:29:33 EDT 1993 Article: 19916 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.claremont.edu!ucivax!megatek!redman From: redman@megatek.com (Tim Redfield) Subject: Re: Gardenia pests Message-ID: <1993Jul15.224615.16831@megatek.com> Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California References: <223jfiINN713@early-bird.think.com> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 22:46:15 GMT Lines: 17 >From article <223jfiINN713@early-bird.think.com>, by George T. Pearson : > What on earth are these new critters on my beautiful gardenia? They > simply appear to be little shells which start off light brown and get > darker as they get bigger. When I pulled one off it seemed to be filled > with powder. Is this like an aphid? Yesterday I tried picking off all > that I could see and then spraying with that famous organic spray of > dishwashing liquid and rubbing alcohol. Hopefully, that will help. Does > anyone know what this pest is and how it should be treated? Sounds like scale to me. I usually find it with ants alongside. I believe you can use some really nasty chemicals to knock it out... -- | Tim Redfield INTERNET: redman@megatek.com | | "I love the smell of salt water in the morning - | | it smells like... victory!" | From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!pbhyb!armally Sat Jul 24 12:29:34 EDT 1993 Article: 19917 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!pbhyb!armally From: armally@pbhyb.PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) Subject: Pine Beetle Infestation Reply-To: armally@PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 20:40:48 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul15.204048.17481@pbhyb.PacBell.COM> Keywords: seeds, propogation, Lines: 15 Hello everybody, I'm in the process of buying a home. There are 5 dead pine trees in the backyard, the agent tell me that it is due to pine beetle infestation. There are other pine trees in the yard and also some ornamental trees, is it possible that they may be also infested.....if not how can some preventive measures be taken....spraying with chemicals etc?? somebody help? I was planning to get a tree expert to look at the problem. Thanks a lot!! Arvind Mallya armally@pacbell.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat Jul 24 12:29:34 EDT 1993 Article: 19918 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Corny questions Message-ID: <1993Jul15.235550.6577@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <223ggjINNb3j@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> <1993Jul15.115102.467@walter.cray.com> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 23:55:50 GMT Lines: 31 In article <1993Jul15.115102.467@walter.cray.com> gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: >How long it takes from pollination to picking depends >on the temperatures. If your typical summer weather >is highs around 80 and lows around 60 it will take >about three weeks. If you have highs around 90 >and lows around 70, it will take about 16-17 days. >If insects don't attack the silks and sever them >pick the corn as soon as the silks turn brown >and withered to within 1/2" of the cob tip >but while they are still moist and withering >right at the cob tip. Varieties with the EH gene >can be left on the stalk for several days after >they are ripe. Kandy Korn is the one I grow. >Almost all of my main crop corn is either Kandy Korn >or Silver Queen planted alternate weeks from April >to July. Thanks for the tips. Do you know when Early Sunglow should be picked? I tried several ears using the "silks turned brown and dry" method; most were perfect, but a couple were overripe and a couple were clearly not ready yet. One was truly deformed: a strange checkerboard pattern of plump kernels and unfertilized withered patches (tasted OK, but we made lots of jokes about thalidomide corn). How do you know whether your corn has the EH gene? -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat Jul 24 12:29:35 EDT 1993 Article: 19919 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: "Noah's Garden", by Sara Stein (boundaries & limits) Message-ID: <1993Jul16.001740.6805@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <21sge7$pgj@news.bu.edu> <21uk2j$b88@samba.oit.unc.edu> <221vnn$ho2@news.bu.edu> Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 00:17:40 GMT Lines: 40 In article <221vnn$ho2@news.bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >What kinds of limits and boundaries does YOUR philosophy of gardening, and >your PRACTICE of gardening (not always the same for various reasons) include? I'm rather easygoing about gardening. I prefer organic methods but am not above pesticides when I am overrun by nasty beasts. Composting all the veggie debris seems to me like a perfect thrifty process: cuts down on the garbage, saving precious dump space; turns discards into useful stuff; makes wonderful humus and fertilizer concurrently; probably is good exercise to boot. Because I live in CA but like English gardens, I have compromised on plantings, too. As faithful rec.gardens folk know, I can't live without my roses. Otherwise, I try to substitute drought-loving plants for thirsty ones as long as they give the right effect, and I use a miserly drip irrigation system instead of sprinklers. My whole yard is mulched with redwood chips to preserve moisture and incidentally to replace grass, which I hate dealing with. Fortunately, I live in a neighborhood with mostly terraced flower beds instead of lawns, so I fit right in. But I'd stick to close planting of shrubs and flowers anyway, even if the whole block were golf-course kingdom. My vegetable garden is in a small raised bed, but using Square-Foot techniques, I'm getting plenty of food, including our favorite: corn. We're in gazpacho heaven right now. So far I have had to use no pesticides except for a perimeter drip of slug death, and the dirt is so rich I've added no chemical fertilizer. On the slope below the bed, which is pure adobe and gets no irrigation, I've sown California poppies. Next year I'll add more native wildflowers. My Philosophy of Gardening is that it soothes the spirit and beautifies the environment. Even though I'm city-bred, I appreciate Nature and hope to coexist peacefully with her. I am not willing to go all the way Back to the Earth, though. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!godzilla.quotron.com!mac33.quotron.com!user Sat Jul 24 12:29:35 EDT 1993 Article: 19920 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!godzilla.quotron.com!mac33.quotron.com!user From: rcurt@quotron.com (Roger Curtis) Subject: Re: Need Help with Tomatoes Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: root@quotron.com (Operator) Organization: Quotron Systems, Inc. References: <16C0ADD57.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> <1993Jul13.222805.9661@spdc.ti.com> Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 00:22:37 GMT Lines: 9 In article MWORKMAN writes: >It seems with mine they all ripened at once, so now after a couple months with >no mato's, they are coming out of my ears! I usually grow Cherry's, or Sweet >Millions, and get a steady crop for 9 months. Is this syncronised >ripening the way Roma's are? My Roma's are ripening in a steady stream, about six a week. I'm in West Los Angeles. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!godzilla.quotron.com!mac33.quotron.com!user Sat Jul 24 12:29:36 EDT 1993 Article: 19921 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!godzilla.quotron.com!mac33.quotron.com!user From: rcurt@quotron.com (Roger Curtis) Subject: Re: coal ashes Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: root@quotron.com (Operator) Organization: Quotron Systems, Inc. References: Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 00:25:47 GMT Lines: 8 In article john dee wrote: > > Are coal ashes good for the garden? > If not, why? And any suggestions what to do with them? > Thanks in advance. Both of my organic gardening books so that coal ash is toxic to plants because of the sulfur level. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!godzilla.quotron.com!mac33.quotron.com!user Sat Jul 24 12:29:36 EDT 1993 Article: 19922 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!godzilla.quotron.com!mac33.quotron.com!user From: rcurt@quotron.com (Roger Curtis) Subject: Re: Yet another tomato problem Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: root@quotron.com (Operator) Organization: Quotron Systems, Inc. References: <1993Jul15.084004.1@ducvax.auburn.edu> Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 00:33:19 GMT Lines: 11 owen@ducvax.auburn.edu wrote: > > The problem I'm having now is a sort of latitudinal splitting of skin of the > fruits. I've had this problem when I was watering unevenly. The uneven watering causes the growth rate of the tomatoes to change and when the go through a growth spurt during ripening the skin seems to lose resiliency and splits. Roger Curtis rcurt@quotron.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!caen!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf Sat Jul 24 12:29:37 EDT 1993 Article: 19923 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.cooking Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!caen!uvaarpa!murdoch!hopper!adamf From: adamf@hopper.ACS.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Canning Books Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: U.Va. Internet Public Access Project Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 01:04:26 GMT Lines: 23 Here are a few good canning books that have information on canning. I just had a 1992 cucumber dill pickle and it inspired me to post this- canning is easy and simple, just takes a little time. KEEPING THE HARVEST, chioffi & Mead, Vermont, Garden Way Publishing, 1980, ISBN: 0-88266-247-3 Ball BLUE BOOK, Ball Bros. Co., Indiana, 1966 ed. 28. (I am sure there is a newer one call them to order this one look on jar or lid boxes in store for #) PICKLES AND PERSERVES, Brown, Marion, New York, Wilfred Funk, Inc.,1955. There are a host of others that you can find in library. Do not use old jars from something else (eg. mayo jar) and do not under cook or heat low acid food(eg. corn or beans) or you might have problems, which isn't the idea. I found that experimenting with recipe variations leads to great things! Your pickles and preserves are only as good as the ingredients-as is true in all cooking! Enjoy, Adam -- adamf@hopper.acs.virginia.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!orion.yorku.ca!as000047 Sat Jul 24 12:29:37 EDT 1993 Article: 19924 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!orion.yorku.ca!as000047 From: as000047@orion.yorku.ca (Phillip Phan) Subject: Re: Question about Mums Message-ID: <1993Jul15.210752.1@orion.yorku.ca> Lines: 35 Sender: news@newshub.ccs.yorku.ca (USENET News System) Organization: York University References: <1993Jul12.171710.22688@ncar.ucar.edu> Distribution: usa Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 02:07:52 GMT In article <1993Jul12.171710.22688@ncar.ucar.edu>, dattore@buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu (Bob Dattore) writes: > Our local gardener advises that buds should be clipped from mums to > prevent July bloom. Do garden mums normally only bloom once? I have > two small plants that I put in this year, that were in bloom when I > planted them in May, and they are about to bloom again, so at least > these have produced flower buds twice this year so far. The other > established plants are also beginning to bloom now. If I allow them > to continue now and trim faded flowers, will I get another round of > blooms this fall? > > Thanks for any advice, > Bob As far as I know Mums will continue to bloom as long as weather conditions permit. Removing the old blooms will help the new ones come up faster. Mine, I started in late April, have already bloomed a third time and I already see new buds coming in for a fourth cycle. Phil Phan -- ================================================================================ All opinions are mine and are not necessarily the views of York University or it's affiliates *********************************** | Phillip H. Phan | __________________________________ | York University | | | | FAS - POLICY | | "Let's kick some elite ass..." | | North York, ON M3J 1P3 | | | | CANADA | | |8888 | 416-736-5087 | | -- Al Bundy |8888 | as000047@orion.yorku.ca | |__________________________________|8888 *********************************** 88888888888888888888888888888888888 88888888888888888888888888888888888 88888888888888888888888888888888888 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!uunet.ca!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!orion.yorku.ca!as000047 Sat Jul 24 12:29:38 EDT 1993 Article: 19925 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!uunet.ca!torn!newshub.ccs.yorku.ca!orion.yorku.ca!as000047 From: as000047@orion.yorku.ca (Phillip Phan) Subject: Slimies on Marigolds: What? Message-ID: <1993Jul15.211841.1@orion.yorku.ca> Lines: 23 Sender: news@newshub.ccs.yorku.ca (USENET News System) Organization: York University Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 02:18:41 GMT A week ago we received a heavy dose of rain and after that I noticed a number of white, soft bodied, disgusting looking crawlies on my marigolds. Any idea what they are? How do you get rid of them? They seem to like the flowers and the last time I looked, a number of my plants have actually withered away. I tried using a natural pesticide derived from crysantemums but that didn't seem to help much. Help someone, before all my marigolds are history. Thanks much. Phil Phan -- ================================================================================ All opinions are mine and are not necessarily the views of York University or it's affiliates *********************************** | Phillip H. Phan | __________________________________ | York University | | | | FAS - POLICY | | "A rose by any name is still a | | North York, ON M3J 1P3 | | rose..." | | CANADA | | |8888 | 416-736-5087 | | --Bill S. |8888 | as000047@orion.yorku.ca | |__________________________________|8888 *********************************** 88888888888888888888888888888888888 88888888888888888888888888888888888 88888888888888888888888888888888888 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!pipex!bnr.co.uk!bnrgate!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ag331 Sat Jul 24 12:29:38 EDT 1993 Article: 19926 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!pipex!bnr.co.uk!bnrgate!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ag331 From: ag331@Freenet.carleton.ca (Roland L. Behunin) Subject: Where can I get Sirah (syrah) grape vines by mail order? Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: National Capital Freenet, Ottawa, Canada Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 02:15:15 GMT Lines: 8 I happen to like wine made out of this grape. I would like to palnt some in my yard. I live in Utah, U.S.A. I use the freenet for access to the news. Thanks in advance roland From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!ftpbox!binford!laidbak!ico!carnes Sat Jul 24 12:29:39 EDT 1993 Article: 19927 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!ftpbox!binford!laidbak!ico!carnes From: carnes@ico.isc.com (Steve Carnes) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Fly Maggots & Compost Keywords: Try Vermiculture Message-ID: <1993Jul15.203615.7933@ico.isc.com> Date: 15 Jul 93 20:36:15 GMT References: Organization: Interactive Systems Corp., Boulder CO Lines: 20 rlk@bonnie.Rational.COM (Robert Kitzberger) writes: >I'm curious: how do you separate the worms from the castings? Does the >box magically do this for you? I keep having mental images of sticking >a shovel into a box teeming with worms... and I thought turning >compost in a box was tricky ;-) According to St. Mary (Appelhof, the patron saint of vermiculture), one pulls all the processed material (together with worms) to one side and puts fresh bedding and vegetation in the empty side. Voila! the worms migrate. It ain't never that easy. I ended up taking the stuff out in small buckets, two at a time. After the buckets had sat in the sunshine for a half hour, the worms escaped towards the middle, so I could remove the top third. It took several iterations before all the worms were separated from their goodies and returned to the box. The castings, by the way, are incredible -- just a cupful added to a houseplant and slightly dug in makes it go nuts. -- Steve Carnes carnes@ico.isc.com uucp: {ncar,nbires}!ico!carnes "It's fun to have fun, but you have to know how." - Dr. Seuss From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!news.itd.umich.edu!merit.edu!patmcg Sat Jul 24 12:29:39 EDT 1993 Article: 19928 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!news.itd.umich.edu!merit.edu!patmcg From: patmcg@merit.edu (Pat McGregor) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flowers flop over in rain; never get back up Date: 16 Jul 93 03:06:25 GMT Organization: University of Michigan Lines: 16 Message-ID: References: <93196.133823TMH1@psuvm.psu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: merit.edu Tina Hay @ Penn State writes: >Why are my flowers so wimpy about rain? I have a nice bed of tall >snapdragons, Calif. poppies, and bells of Ireland, and the minute we get >even a brief, moderately hard rainfall, they all flop over. I go out and >try to shake some of the excess water off, but despite this, they never seem >to be the same again -- they stay flopped over. Is this normal? Or is >there something about the flowers or the quality of the soil that makes this >happen? Sigh. I finally gave up and started using rings, baskets, and other supports. I never did find a way to make them stand up on their own. pat McGregor ITD Network Systems, Univ. of Michigan patmcg@umich.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!charnel!rat!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat Jul 24 12:29:40 EDT 1993 Article: 19929 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!charnel!rat!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tree Nurserys Message-ID: <1993Jul15.162959.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 15 Jul 93 16:29:59 MDT References: <50.7163.1066.0N0012E1@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca> Distribution: world Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 16 In article <50.7163.1066.0N0012E1@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca>, ralph.cook@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca (Ralph Cook) writes: > Hi. I'm interested in getting mailing addresses and phone numbers of > tree nurserys in North West U.S. and Western Canada. > This info seems hard to locate and I'm hoping that any one that can will > take some time to send back the names of their local nursery. Sounds like you need a copy of "The Mail Order Gardener". I got one as a gift, I think it came from the Book of the Month Club, I bet it is available elsewhere also. It provides mail order addresses of tree nurseries (I'm guessing there are 100 or more), mostly from North America, but some from elsewhere also. It also gives addresses and phone numbers for dealers of all sorts of other garden companies, broken down by subject (african violets, cacti and succulents, peppers, etc.) Don From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.intercon.com!eddie.mit.edu!news.kei.com!ub!acsu.buffalo.edu!ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu!camron Sat Jul 24 12:29:40 EDT 1993 Article: 19930 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.intercon.com!eddie.mit.edu!news.kei.com!ub!acsu.buffalo.edu!ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu!camron From: camron@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (Ronald Meis) Subject: Don't read, just a test. Message-ID: News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Sender: nntp@acsu.buffalo.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu Organization: University at Buffalo Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 04:57:00 GMT Lines: 2 My posts don't seem to get through, this is try #3. Ron From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:29:41 EDT 1993 Article: 19931 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flowers flop over in rain; never get back up Message-ID: <1993Jul15.155602.14809@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 15 Jul 93 15:56:02 -0600 References: <93196.133823TMH1@psuvm.psu.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 18 In article <93196.133823TMH1@psuvm.psu.edu>, Tina Hay @ Penn State writes: > Why are my flowers so wimpy about rain? I have a nice bed of tall > snapdragons, Calif. poppies, and bells of Ireland, and the minute we get > even a brief, moderately hard rainfall, they all flop over. I go out and > try to shake some of the excess water off, but despite this, they never seem > to be the same again -- they stay flopped over. Is this normal? Or is > there something about the flowers or the quality of the soil that makes this > happen? Weak stems are often caused by: -- too much nitrogen, producing "soft growth" (i.e., not sturdy) -- too much shade (the plants grow tall and spindly trying to go to the sun.... even weeds or overcrowding can cause this) -- too little breeze (plants grown in a quiet greenhouse grow floppy stems. Brush your hand over the plants each day, or run a fan on them, and the same plants get stockier and sturdier.) Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!CChristi Sat Jul 24 12:29:41 EDT 1993 Article: 19933 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!CChristi Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: coal ashes Message-ID: <1993Jul16.050621.12917@massey.ac.nz> From: CChristi@massey.ac.nz (C.B. Christie) Date: Fri, 16 Jul 93 05:06:21 GMT References: Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2c Lines: 11 I think the toxicity of coal ash is related to the presence of high levels of potassium and boron salts. Plants are sensitive to overdoses of both especially the boron. Sulphur is not likely to be a problem as this goes up the chimney to pollute the atmosphere. Bruce Christie Department of Plant Science, Massey University Palmerston North, New Zealand email: C.B.Christie@massey.ac.nz From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!pipex!uknet!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!planet.bt.co.uk!polaris!prk Sat Jul 24 12:29:42 EDT 1993 Article: 19934 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uunet!pipex!uknet!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!planet.bt.co.uk!polaris!prk From: prk@planet.bt.co.uk (Peter Knight) Subject: Re: Flowers flop over in rain; never get back up Message-ID: Sender: news@planet.bt.co.uk Organization: BT Labs, Martlesham Heath, Ipswich, UK. References: <93196.133823TMH1@psuvm.psu.edu> Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 07:59:25 GMT Lines: 17 Tina Hay @ Penn State writes: >Why are my flowers so wimpy about rain? I have a nice bed of tall >snapdragons, Calif. poppies, and bells of Ireland, and the minute we get >even a brief, moderately hard rainfall, they all flop over. I go out and >try to shake some of the excess water off, but despite this, they never seem >to be the same again -- they stay flopped over. Is this normal? Or is >there something about the flowers or the quality of the soil that makes this >happen? > Tina M. Hay Tryed staking them? Peter Knight #include From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!ogicse!qiclab!therose!postmaster Sat Jul 24 12:29:42 EDT 1993 Article: 19935 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!ogicse!qiclab!therose!postmaster From: Don.Simms@f52.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Don Simms) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Groundhog problem Message-ID: <742778890.AA02162@therose.pdx.com> Date: 15 Jul 93 02:51:00 GMT Article-I.D.: therose.742778890.AA02162 Sender: postmaster@therose.pdx.com Lines: 24 JW> JW> I just removed two groundhog pests from my garden this JW> morning, and I sure hope JW> I burried them deep enough, the buggers keep coming back. JW> Hello, I read about your problems with groundhogs / gophers or moles. I too love in Portland and have been trying to accept their presence here, not enjoying killing any animals, especailly mammals. But they have burrowed under our driveway, whcih has cracked due to the space underneath and yesterday they destroyed two broccili plants! And with that, we declared war. I have heard that traps are the only way... so I burried 4 in the ground yesterday. I'll let you know how they work. BTW, if there are just mounds of dirt pilled up in various areas, they say you have gophers: if there is some sort of 'trail' (underground) showing between the piles, then you have \ moles. I guess the gophers are easier to get, though I cannot confirm this myself. Good luck and let us know how things are going so we can all learn from one another. Don/ Milwaukie, OR ___ * OFFLINE 1.54 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!ogicse!qiclab!therose!postmaster Sat Jul 24 12:29:43 EDT 1993 Article: 19936 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!ogicse!qiclab!therose!postmaster From: Don.Simms@f52.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Don Simms) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: lilac bush troubles Message-ID: <742778890.AA02163@therose.pdx.com> Date: 14 Jul 93 16:00:02 GMT Article-I.D.: therose.742778890.AA02163 Sender: postmaster@therose.pdx.com Lines: 18 DE> >very well. The new buds that were starting have died off and now DE> there DE> >is a white film that is all over the leaves. Hello, We have a similar problem here... we live in Milwaukie, Oregon. Our lilac bush is healthy, except for one main branch from the ground. It had a white powdery substance on it, but now the leaves are completely dead! Brown and crispy would be the best way to describe them. However the remaining 4 main stems are in perfect shape. What do you think? Thanks... Don, Milwaukie, OR ___ * OFFLINE 1.54 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!psuvax1!psuvm!vpn1 Sat Jul 24 12:29:43 EDT 1993 Article: 19937 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!psuvax1!psuvm!vpn1 Organization: Penn State University Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 05:56:16 EDT From: Message-ID: <93197.055616VPN1@psuvm.psu.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: coal ashes Lines: 10 When we bought this house in 1961, we found that people who had lived here before (long before, probably) had just carried ashes from the (then) coal furnace out the cellar door and dumped them. To create a patio, I hand-dozed the ashes back into a kind of bank. I then got a pickup load of rotten sawdust and stirred it into the top layer. It worked. Peonies, ferns, dogwoods and rhodies are growing in that stuff, and in between them, the ground is covered with yellow primroses and ivy. vince norris, penn state u. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!slc29!jstuart Sat Jul 24 12:29:44 EDT 1993 Article: 19938 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!slc29!jstuart From: jstuart@mtgy.gtegsc.com (Jean Stuart) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Old Apple need advice Date: 16 Jul 1993 13:52:39 GMT Organization: PRC Inc Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <226br7$b5g@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> Reply-To: jstuart@mtgy.gtegsc.com NNTP-Posting-Host: slc29.mtgy.gtegsc.com We bought a house in April, that has an old apple tree in the back corner. It show signs of pruning over the years (orginal owners there 24 years). What should I do for it now (there are a few apples on it). And more importantly what should I do for it this fall. I don't wan to prune all the growth that will be fruiting next spring. Thanks every one in advance Jean Stuart From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Sat Jul 24 12:29:44 EDT 1993 Article: 19939 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bat houses (was Re: white flies?) Date: 16 Jul 1993 14:00:54 GMT Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Lines: 40 Distribution: na Message-ID: <226cam$pie@GRAPEVINE.LCS.MIT.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: im4.lcs.mit.edu joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan Maxfield UCNS) asks: : Oh, another question Iv'e been meaning to ask. We live near a small : creek of some sort, never seen it, only heard the frogs. We have lots : of dragonflies and lightning bugs (in CT we called them fireflies, in : GA they are 'lightnin' bugs') and LOTS of mosquitoes. We bought a : bug zapper and hoped the 'good guys' (dragons and fireflies) don't : climb in but it still isn't helping with the gnats and mosquitoes. : Anyway, while talking to my neighbors the other night we watched while : about 5 bats feasted above my house and (we) started discussing the idea of : putting some bat houses up around 'our' end of the street. Does : anyone have planes for these? I know the shape on the outside but is : there anything on the inside like dowels to hang from? Or is the wood : just roughed up? I like the idea of helping out a poor misunderstood : mammal in favor of those nasty blood sucking vermin. Any ideas, : tips, book references, and plans would be appreciated. : : Thanks a ton! : : Joan : -- : Joan C. Maxfield * "Je Crois que je vais cracher une : maxfield@athena.cs.uga.edu * boule de poils" -Henri de la Barbe : joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu * The best popular book I know of on bats is "America's Neighborhood Bats" by Merlin D. Tuttle, University of Texas Press, 1988. He stresses the need to have a heat-retaining 'attic' in your bathouse. This partially explained to me why bats don't like my bathouse, but I haven't gotten around to rebuilding it yet. Good luck on your project. I think bats are NEAT critters. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W|  From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Sat Jul 24 12:29:45 EDT 1993 Article: 19940 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: Stoney pitted fruits Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Electrical and Computer Engineering, Carnegie Mellon References: <21khej$n2t@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <1993Jul13.102349.99@immunex.com> <1993Jul14.203220.14783@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 05:22:23 GMT Lines: 32 In article <1993Jul14.203220.14783@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >In article <1993Jul13.102349.99@immunex.com>, rousseaua@immunex.com writes: >> In article <1993Jul12.182753.14666@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >>> In article <21n02l$fqc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, ah335@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Richard Banks) writes: >>>> Is it true that the pits of fruits such as peaches, plums, necterines, etcs. >>>> contain a small amount of a cyanogenic compund such a cyanide? >>>> If so, how much? How many pits would one have to consume before he >>>> has a lethal dosage? >> >> I remember from my days as a girl on the farm that wilted cherry leaves were >> said to be fatal to livestock. Urban legend (or is that "rural legend" :))? I >> remember being puzzled that fresh leaves and dried leaves were not warned >> against. Perhaps the wilted leaves contained more concentrated amounts of >> cyanogenic stuff, while the toxins were broken down by the time the leaves were >> actually dried. Has anyone else heard this? > >I'd have to hunt up the exact references, but this sounds like Prunus laurus- >cerasius... In general, plants with cyanogenic leaves tend to produce more >cyanogenic glycosides when the plants are stressed or damaged. > >Kay Along similar lines, I have heard that one should not use cherry twigs/branches for roasting hot dogs or marshmallows. Do they contain cyanide? Does the heat of the fire have something to do with it? John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!ulkyvx.louisville.edu!hlcox001 Sat Jul 24 12:29:45 EDT 1993 Article: 19941 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!ulkyvx.louisville.edu!hlcox001 From: hlcox001@ulkyvx.louisville.edu Subject: Re: How do you save onion seeds? Sender: news@netnews.louisville.edu (Netnews) Message-ID: <1993Jul16.095933.1@ulkyvx.louisville.edu> Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 13:59:33 GMT Lines: 34 References: <20n92eINNhh3@ctron-news.ctron.com> <1993Jun29.163512.3542@lsl.co.uk> <21lg9aINNl1q@network.ucsd.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: ulkyvx.louisville.edu Organization: University of Louisville Followup-To: rec.gardens In article <21lg9aINNl1q@network.ucsd.edu>, ee171ubh@sdcc15.ucsd.edu (Sean Maschue) writes: >>Most onions will not set new bulbs unless they are multiplier onions. >>These include shallots and potato onions. Garlic and elephant garlic >>multiply by bulbs and are not propagated by seed. >> >>Bob Klebba > > > Yes, buty what would happen if one were to grow the seed that a mature > Elephant Garlic produces? A few of the elephant garlics here have big > winding snaky stalks with big purple explosions and little black seeds. > What should I expect these seeds to grow into? Can I plant > them directly or should I dry them. Nancy Bubbel does not specify. > > Thanks. > > > xoxo > > -- > smaschue@ucsd.edu > or just sean. > -- > sean maschue Me and my wife are just starting to get into garlic growing, so this isn't from experience, but I was reading in a book this weekend about garlic, that if you plant seeds form the seed pod, you will end up with something like one clove or garlic at the end of the growing season (or a garlic set?). If you plant this the next growing cycle, you will then end up with a whole bulb of garlic. Does this sound right? Tim Merse HLCOX001@ulkyvx.louisville.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke Sat Jul 24 12:29:46 EDT 1993 Article: 19942 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: white fly predator wasp? Message-ID: <1993Jul16.163910.3588@lsl.co.uk> Date: 16 Jul 93 16:39:09 +0100 References: <1993Jul15.221347.9565@rigel.econ.uga.edu> Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 15 In article <1993Jul15.221347.9565@rigel.econ.uga.edu>, joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan Maxfield UCNS) writes: > > Ok, Ok, I'll admit it, I ignored the posts about that nifty > new wasp that eats whiteflies. I have the address for Gardens Alive! > but I wouldn't know what to ask for. I would call but my phone is > out. Does anyone remember what they are? ... The wasp is Encarsia formosa (I think). I haven't tried them myself, though I have tried the red spider predator, Phytoseiulus. I'm sure any of the suppliers of this type of thing would know what you meant. >From what I've read, its a *very small* wasp (maybe not much bigger than the whitefly), and lays its eggs in the whitefly eggs or larvae (rather than eating them). I imagine that you would need rather a lot of them, but of course the hope is that the predator breeds and multiplies. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!devincentis.mitre.org!user Sat Jul 24 12:29:47 EDT 1993 Article: 19943 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!devincentis.mitre.org!user From: jdev@mitre.org (john dee) Subject: poison ivy Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: news@linus.mitre.org (News Service) Nntp-Posting-Host: devincentis.mitre.org Organization: MITRE Corporation Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 14:51:02 GMT Lines: 3 Any suggestions how to get rid of this stuff? I'm looking for recommendations on what will kill the plants. Thanks in advance. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sat Jul 24 12:29:47 EDT 1993 Article: 19944 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 16:38:48 GMT References: <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: hpdmd48.boi.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 42 Barb Bruns (barb@meaddata.com) wrote: : : Question number one: Should a rank beginner look for the Ball Blue : Book on canning, is that the right name, does it still exist, and does anyone : know the address to send for it? (OK, that was four questions.) : Yes, Yes, and Yes, absolutely on all counts. Large variety stores (K-Mart, ShopKo, Wal-Mart, etc.) that carry both canning supplies and books & magazines will often have it, usually in the canning section. For a quick answer on ordering a copy, call Ball Corporation, Consumer Affairs Dept. in Muncie, Indiana, and ask to talk to a home economist. They can answer questions up-front about canning and tell you how to order a blue book. I also recommend the Sunset (soft-bound) canning book. : I will soon have the tomatoes from 10 tomato plants ripening, and after two : weeks of "tomato lust" (Garrison Keillor's term, not mine), will need to find : a way of preserving them. I have jars, lids, and a canner (I THINK it's a : canner - it's a big aluminum pot tall enough to put the jars in, fill with : water to cover the jars by an inch or two, and still close the lid). : I will be doing the same with tomatoes, I think, but my experience in the past has been not entirely satisfactory: You start out with a couple bushels of tomatoes, cook them forever, and wind up with 2 half-pints of something. I recommend having a friend who has canned before help you. The Blue Book and others are excellent, but it's hard to know the first time what the fill-line on the jars is, how tight to tighten the screw bands, just how sterile is "sterile", etc. My recommendation would be to start with something relatively easy such as simple jams or fruit like apricots. : Thanks in advance! : : -- : Barbara Bruns Technical Communications & Education You're welcome, in arrears! Gary Hypes From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!cusanell Sat Jul 24 12:29:48 EDT 1993 Article: 19945 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!cusanell From: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic S. Cusanelli) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: poison ivy Message-ID: <39482@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 16 Jul 93 16:58:18 GMT References: Reply-To: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli) Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 5 There might be something somewhere that will kill poison ivy - but it would probably be far too toxic to use safely on a yard where people/kids/pets are. I've found nothing short of digging up the stuff - roots and all - kills it. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!hela.iti.org!klb Sat Jul 24 12:29:48 EDT 1993 Article: 19946 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!hela.iti.org!klb From: klb@iti.org (Karen L. Boynton) Subject: Dogwood Tree Message-ID: <1993Jul16.164907.14792@iti.org> Sender: klb@iti.org (Karen L. Boynton) Organization: Industrial Technology Institute Distribution: usa Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 16:49:07 GMT Lines: 20 Okay folks, I've followed the thread regarding the Dogwood doing badly after transplanting. We've tried, unsuccessfully, with 3 brand new Dogwoods and they've ended up dying, ie. brown leaves and the whole works. They are planted in full sun-light. Our soil is clay, which isn't the best, but we did prepare the soil correctly with top soil, soil conditioner and light bark. We just can't seem to get them to survive. It looks like we'll have to give up on trying to get a Dogwood to grow... We did plant a Profusion Crabapple at the same time and it's doing just great. So my question is, what type of tree will grow best in full sun, clay soil and is of the ornamental type of tree? Please E-mail your responses to klb@iti.org. Thanks. Karen. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!pbhyb!armally Sat Jul 24 12:29:50 EDT 1993 Article: 19947 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!pbhyb!armally From: armally@pbhyb.PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) Subject: Re: Something's killing my zucchini plants! Reply-To: armally@PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 16:59:32 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul16.165932.26065@pbhyb.PacBell.COM> References: <224j8p$6pe@morrow.stanford.edu> Lines: 26 In article <224j8p$6pe@morrow.stanford.edu> Karen Zack writes: >I didn't see a FAQ on rec.gardens, and and I'm taking my first stab at >growing a couple of zucchini plants this year. There's some kind of >fungus or something growing on the leaves, and it's withering the plant >away. I've had several blooms on it, but no fruit has appeared. I have >a feeling something has gone wrong...is there anything I can do to get >rid of this fungus-thing, preferably something pesticide-free (if there's >such a thing!)? > >Is there a FAQ that I should get hold of to keep my silly questions at >bay? > >Many thanks, >Karen Zack >karen@forsythe.stanford.edu Hi, I have similar problem with my zucchini, except I get the fruit with end rot. I pick them when they are still young with the bloosom. If you find out the problem.....possibly a San Francisco bay area problem let me know...and I'll do the same. Arvind Mallya From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!starbase.spd.louisville.edu!tjgorn01 Sat Jul 24 12:29:50 EDT 1993 Article: 19948 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!starbase.spd.louisville.edu!tjgorn01 From: tjgorn01@starbase.spd.louisville.edu (Tim Gornet) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Need help in Pond design.. Message-ID: Date: 16 Jul 93 15:10:47 GMT References: <1993Jul9.171928.10312@brtph560.bnr.ca> <1993Jul12.125120.29228@julian.uwo.ca> <21sf5r$oql@news.bu.edu> <1993Jul12.213740.10772@ichips.intel.com> Sender: news@netnews.louisville.edu (Netnews) Distribution: na Organization: University of Louisville Lines: 30 Nntp-Posting-Host: starbase.spd.louisville.edu In <1993Jul12.213740.10772@ichips.intel.com> dcovell@frx702.intel.com (David Covell - EPG) writes: >>Lance suggested essentially wrapping the PVC around behind a couple of layers >>of bricks then sandwiching the PVC between the top brick and a third layer >>to protect the PVC from UV by either brick or water. >> >Better yet, don't use PVC at all. I used heavy-gauge butyl rubber for my >waterfall; thicker/tougher than any PVC I've seen and much less UV-reactive. >Cost me $50 for a 6' x 8' sheet at a local landscaping place that sells >pond supplies. I would suggest a better choice. Check out your local roofing supply house and get some EPDM rubberized roofing material that comes in 10,20, and 30 foot widths. It also comes in .045 and .060" thicknesses and will last about 50 years. It is unaffected by UV. Many of these guys will sell you "scraps" that are 20'x20' or so to get rid of them. You can get it really cheap if you and a couple friends go in and buy a full 100' roll of the stuff. It works great and it can easily be mended and pieced together with a cement you can get from the roofing supply. Make sure you check with a wholesaler and tell them what you want to do with. many are glad to get rid of the smaller, smaller as far as they are concerned, pieces. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tim Gornet PHONENET: (502)588-0714 Computer Aided Engineering Consultant FAXNET : (502)588-8890 SLUGNET: INTERNET: tjgorn01@starbase.spd.louisville.edu CAE Center BITNET : tjgorn01@ulkyvx.bitnet University of Louisville Louisville, KY 40292 -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Sat Jul 24 12:29:51 EDT 1993 Article: 19949 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Roses: Problems on leaves (help) Message-ID: <1993Jul15.221520.1476@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 16 Jul 93 06:15:20 GMT References: <1993Jul14.130445.14754@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: - Lines: 29 In article <1993Jul14.130445.14754@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > In article , rutten@kits.sfu.ca (Jacqueline Maria Rutten) writes: >> >> Also, small 'rust' spots have developed on leaves that do not have the >> 'dust' on them. On the under side of the leaves, there is a VERY tiny >> fuzzy, bright orange spot that is more spherical than flat. Fungus??? >> Pest??? OTHER???????? Is it curable and how????? Help!!!!!! > > One of the leaf rusts, also a fungus. Fungicides again. > > Actually, neither powdery mildew or rust is a real rose-killer for most > cultivars, though they can make the plants kinda ugly... I prefer to > plant rust-, mildew-, and blackspot- resistant roses and let them > duke it out with the fungi without my intervention... Yes, disease resistant roses are the way to go. I heard the following about rust years ago. I can't verify it, but it seems to work for me. Rust is spread from the soil below the roses. Hence splashing water on the lower leaves can start the spread of rust up the plant. Also, annually removing all the leaves from roses, including the dead ones below the plant, is very important it preventing the return of rust from year to year. I tend to believe this, since I rarely get rust on the roses that are watered by drip irrigation. I've also noticed that rust always seem to start from the bottom of the plant and work its way up. Jim From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:29:51 EDT 1993 Article: 19950 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul16.123039.14846@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 16 Jul 93 12:30:39 -0600 References: <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com> <1993Jul15.154544.7354@news.uiowa.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 26 sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger): > So how wet is it in Iowa? Are the gardens that aren't underwater alright? Driving into work today, I saw a lawn sign: _____________________ Ark kits 4 sale 1-800-NOAH ______________________ The 30 and 60 day extended forecasts came in today: cooler and wetter than normal for both periods. And it's raining again today. Very little of the [remaining] corn has tasseled yet. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI (Water: Free for hauling. Any quantity.) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!sundare Sat Jul 24 12:29:52 EDT 1993 Article: 19951 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!sundare From: sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan) Subject: need ideas for plant i.d. markers Sender: news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster) Message-ID: Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 17:18:30 GMT Distribution: usa Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM. Nntp-Posting-Host: fiddler.watson.ibm.com Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research Center Lines: 13 I really like the 8-inch white plastic stake-with-writing area markers. Anything smaller gets lost, and I like to leave them in place all winter to mark bulb positions etc. They are a bit expensive, and if I could find a free substitute I could really use a few hundred. Last year I tried cutting plastic water bottles into strips and writing on them with china marker. They were too floppy and didn't stand up well to winter. I wonder what other clever reusables people have hit on with success? have hacksaw and scissors, ready to cobble. Chris Sundaresan From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:29:53 EDT 1993 Article: 19952 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Message-ID: <1993Jul16.124353.14847@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 16 Jul 93 12:43:53 -0600 References: <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com> <1993Jul15.192323.36352@rchland.ibm.com> <224lbu$de4@morrow.stanford.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 50 In article <224lbu$de4@morrow.stanford.edu>, dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) writes: > In article tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) writes: >> >>Don't add sugar. Its the acidity in the tomatoes that protects you. > > Sugar doesn't affect acidity. For instance, lemons have more sugar in > them than most other fruits, but they are most definitely acidic. As long Um... sugar is mildly acidic-- at least according to the home ec major who lived next door... And sugar in enough quanitity will help prevent bacterial growth. In quantities you use in spaghetti sauce, though... no. > as you aren't using a tomato variety advertised as being "low-acid," and > as long as you aren't adding baking soda or other base, your tomato > sauce will be plenty acidic to can by water bath. The acidity of individual tomatoes and cultivars vary so much that most authorities (esp. public health authorities) are telling us to add citric acid to ANYTHING canned by the open kettle method. Don't have the exact proportions here, though. >>And use a pressure cooker if you are canning anything with meat in >>it. Otherwise we are talking botulism. > > I am not sure about this. Does anyone know it cooking meat in an > acidic sauce is sufficient to retard botulism? You might post > this question to rec.foods.cooking, and ask Shankar, the resident > food chemist. Botulism is a bacterial toxin problem, caused by Clostridium botulinum, cousin of Clostridium tetani, the tetanus bacterium. Both are spore- forming (so the spores are everywhere, and highly resistant to most means of killing them, and will survive for decades or more) anaerobes (grow in the absence of oxygen). But they won't grow in an acidic enough environment. Botulism is *such* a nasty that you really don't want to take chances with it by using some of the old fashioned canning methods (like the meat preserved under layers of lard that my mother grew up on)... Open kettle canning is really only suitable for stuff like tomatoes and tomato sauces with extra acid, and pickles in vinegar solutions. If you don't want to add the extra acid, use a pressure cooker or autoclave, or freeze. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI (who freezes most stuff, and throws the rest through the autoclave when she's otherwise sterilizing 50 ml of medium...) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail Sat Jul 24 12:29:53 EDT 1993 Article: 19953 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail From: DBBARBER@macc.wisc.edu (Deborah B. Barber) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Neglected shrubs: save or replace? Date: 16 Jul 1993 12:51:42 -0500 Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway Lines: 18 Sender: daemon@cs.utexas.edu Message-ID: <23071612491567@vms2.macc.wisc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu When woody shrubs have been neglected, that is, not pruned for years, can they be helped with severe pruning? Or should they be removed and replaced? These are about 6' high, with leaves only at the outer tips of branches. I'd appreciate hearing from folks with experience in saving or scrapping shrubs. Or from folks with pruning references to share. Would a lot depend on the type of shrub? If I tried to identify them by taking a sample to a nursery, wouldn't they just encourage me to buy new ones? Also, if pruning is advised, should it wait until fall? Spring? Thanks in advance. Deb Barber dbbarber@macc.wisc.edu standard disclaimer here From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Sat Jul 24 12:29:54 EDT 1993 Article: 19954 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Figs Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <1993Jul16.164907.14792@iti.org> Distribution: usa Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 17:40:10 GMT Lines: 17 On the subject of figs, the best in the world come from Izmir, Turkey, where I lived for two years, when I was in NATO. The original Greek name of Izmir, was "Smyrna" (Turkish pronounciation does not favor two consonants together, so "sm" becomes "iz m"), and Izmir figs are still often marketed as "Smyrna" figs. How disappointed I was when I returned to the U.S. and bought California figs. They were like dry prunes, while Izmir figs were like candy. Even ripe from the tree Izmir figs seemed more a confection than a fruit. So, I suspect the secret is the cultivar or cultivation, rather than preparation. Which reminds me. In one of Thoreau's book ("Cape Cod" I think) he mentioned seeing cod fishermen spitting on their fish, and said it reminded him of the problem with Smyrna figs. What problem? Dave Daulton From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:29:54 EDT 1993 Article: 19955 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: coal ashes Message-ID: <1993Jul16.124823.14848@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 16 Jul 93 12:48:23 -0600 References: <1993Jul16.050621.12917@massey.ac.nz> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 12 In article <1993Jul16.050621.12917@massey.ac.nz>, CChristi@massey.ac.nz (C.B. Christie) writes: > > I think the toxicity of coal ash is related to the presence of high > levels of potassium and boron salts. Plants are sensitive to overdoses > of both especially the boron. Sulphur is not likely to be a problem as > this goes up the chimney to pollute the atmosphere. Hi, Bruce! Coal ash around here from high sulfur coal still has enough residual sulfur to acidify the soil... K isn't so much of a problem, but I have heard of ash with Pb and U problems. Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!mdisea!mothost!lmpsbbs!cimet Sat Jul 24 12:29:55 EDT 1993 Article: 19956 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!mdisea!mothost!lmpsbbs!cimet From: cimet@anl433.uucp (Arieh Cimet) Subject: Re: Groundhog problem Organization: Motorola Land Mobile Products Sector Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 15:50:44 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul16.155044.10986@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com> X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL3 References: <742778890.AA02162@therose.pdx.com> Sender: news@lmpsbbs.comm.mot.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: 145.1.171.18 Lines: 56 Don.Simms@f52.n105.z1.fidonet.org (Don Simms) writes: : this myself. Good luck and let us know how things are going so we : can all learn from one another. Don/ Milwaukie, OR : Here is a followup to the original posting. The morning after posting the request for help we walked up to a garden of "sticks". Peppers, zuchinni, flowers, etc. all eaten to little stumps. We put large amounts of hot and black pepper to save what was left but the little thing simply found another bed of flowers. It even got so confident that it was eating the stuff while we were in the house. I received great advice from the net (and also a lot of sympathy). Here is one of the recommendations: >From: keating@marble.rtsg.mot.com (Edward Keating) > >You can get a HavaHart trap from Valentine Equipment on the south side. >They will ship ups. You will need a 11" x 11" x 3 ft minimum, 11" x >13" x 3ft is better for big woodchucks. Use Broccoli and/or bananna >as bait. Squash is good for raccoons. Be prepared to handle raccoons, >oppossum and/or skunks as well. Animals removed more than 3.5 miles >will not return. We ended up buying the HavaHart trap from Valentine Equipment (312)650-9050 for around $45 including shipping. We set it up about two steps away from the entrance to the burrow with a trail of apples and carrots leading into it. Someone recommended to also scrape some apples on the outside of the cage. We caught the little thing the first evening and released it far away. We kept the cage for 4 more days, leaving it open only from dawn to dusk (or you will catch raccoons, squirrels and other assorted stuff - we just wanted to get rid of the groundhog). We did not catch anything else. Another recommendation said that groundhogs carry fleas so you have to be careful to not have your dog get close to the burrow (or the animal after you trap it). We do not have a dog. We closed the burrow with two bags of top soil and watered it to make it hard. We also put some rags with household ammonia to discourage any returns. We now religiously sprinkle hot and black pepper in our plants just in case. It seems to work so far. Thanks to everyone who answered!. +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ I. Arieh Cimet e-mail: cimet@comm.mot.com Motorola ESMR Infrastructure phone: (708) 576-4565 1301 E. Algonquin Road fax: (708) 538-3472 Schaumburg, IL 60196 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!infonode!raveup.b24a.ingr.com!kmhooper Sat Jul 24 12:29:55 EDT 1993 Article: 19957 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!infonode!raveup.b24a.ingr.com!kmhooper From: kmhooper@raveup.b24a.ingr.com (Karen Hooper) Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: <1993Jul16.190533.14213@infonode.ingr.com> Sender: usenet@infonode.ingr.com (Usenet Administrator) Organization: Intergraph Corporation, Huntsville, AL. References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 19:05:33 GMT Lines: 33 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:502 rec.gardens:19957 |> > |> >So, if you try to be macho and eat peppers like a Mexican, how |> >do you survive? |> > |> I've read that the stuff that makes jalapenoes hot is not water soluble, but |> it is soluble in alcohol and in fats/oils. The article I read this in suggested |> that you drink either milk or beer/wine to cool your mouth. I heard this, and tried it and it worked. The worst thing you can do is drink something real quick. This spreads the pepper throughout the rest of your mouth and throat. As hard as it is, grab some of those chips they put on the table and munch down on those. It really does work. Or, sneak out the seeds while your date isn't looking. That's where the heat comes from. 8-O----ouch! You all probably already know this, but peppers are good for you--they help to clean you out, so to speak. But, in regions where they typically eat a lot of peppers, like Louisiana, the rate of colon cancer is higher. -- ******************************* * Karen M. Hooper _ /| * * 205/730-8065 \'o.O' * * Technical Writer =(___)= * * Intergraph Corp. U * * kmhooper@b24a.b24a.ingr.com * ******************************* From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!indetech!cirrus!tomc Sat Jul 24 12:29:56 EDT 1993 Article: 19958 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!indetech!cirrus!tomc From: tomc@cirrus.com (Tom Crawford) Subject: Re: Need Help with Tomatoes Message-ID: <1993Jul14.211754.2043@cirrus.com> Sender: news@cirrus.com Organization: Cirrus Logic Inc. References: <16C0ADD57.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Distribution: usa Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1993 21:17:54 GMT Lines: 22 In rlk@bonnie.Rational.COM (Robert Kitzberger) writes: >Re: end rot on tomatoes. >It's my understanding that this occurs due to uneven watering: >too little water, followed by too much, which causes the tomato to grow >rapidly. I had the problem until I started watering 2-3 times >a week (Romas, very dry climate, 3" mulch) rather than once a week. > .Bob. >-- >Bob Kitzberger Internet: rlk@rational.com >Rational, Grass Valley, CA CompuServe: 70743,1550 >"Man is a rational animal who always loses his temper when he is called > upon to act in accordance with the dictates of reason." -- Oscar Wilde On the other hand, I had blossom end rot on a plum tomatoe (much like a Roma) until I started watering once a week rather than 3 times a week. Just goes to show you it varies. Tom Crawford From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!koriel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!tellab5!verive Sat Jul 24 12:29:57 EDT 1993 Article: 19959 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!koriel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!tellab5!verive From: verive@tellabs.com (Jeff Verive) Subject: Re: Something's killing my zucchini plants! Message-ID: <1993Jul16.133619.25640@tellab5.tellabs.com> Sender: news@tellab5.tellabs.com (News) Nntp-Posting-Host: tellab1 Organization: Tellabs, Lisle, IL References: <224j8p$6pe@morrow.stanford.edu> Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 13:36:19 GMT Lines: 26 In article <224j8p$6pe@morrow.stanford.edu> Karen Zack writes: >I didn't see a FAQ on rec.gardens, and and I'm taking my first stab at >growing a couple of zucchini plants this year. There's some kind of >fungus or something growing on the leaves, and it's withering the plant >away. I've had several blooms on it, but no fruit has appeared. I have >a feeling something has gone wrong...is there anything I can do to get >rid of this fungus-thing, preferably something pesticide-free (if there's >such a thing!)? > >Is there a FAQ that I should get hold of to keep my silly questions at >bay? > >Many thanks, >Karen Zack >karen@forsythe.stanford.edu Sounds like powdery mildew to me. Chemical means to control it involve fungicides designed to kill powdery mildew. Non-chemical measures involve exceptional cleanliness (keep area free from weeds, dropped leaves and/or flowers, and other organic debris), removing infected leaves and burning them or disposing of in a way which "quarantines" the mildew, and main- taining dry foliage at night (water no later than early afternoon, shake off excessive water at night if desired, etc.). Hope this helps. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!koriel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!tellab5!verive Sat Jul 24 12:29:57 EDT 1993 Article: 19960 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!koriel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!wetware!spunky.RedBrick.COM!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!tellab5!verive From: verive@tellabs.com (Jeff Verive) Subject: Re: Yet another tomato problem Message-ID: <1993Jul16.132743.25427@tellab5.tellabs.com> Sender: news@tellab5.tellabs.com (News) Nntp-Posting-Host: tellab1 Organization: Tellabs, Lisle, IL References: <1993Jul15.084004.1@ducvax.auburn.edu> Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 13:27:43 GMT Lines: 27 In article <1993Jul15.084004.1@ducvax.auburn.edu> owen@ducvax.auburn.edu writes: >I've got a problem with my tomatoes this year I've never seen before. >... >a sort of latitudinal splitting of skin of the fruits. When the splits >first occur, they give the appearance of exposing a white membrane on >the inside of the peel; at this point the splits vary from hairline to >maybe 3/16 inch wide. If not picked right away, in a day or two the fruits >will split wide open along these fissures, enough so that the seed >cavities are exposed. Does anyone know a) what this is?, b) what causes >it?, and c) what to do about it? Can it be eliminated from the remainder >of *this* year's crop. Thanks. Hope this helps: a) Sounds like good old fashioned "cracking" to me. Very often caused by excessive watering, cracking is still usually just a function of the variety of tomato; some crack easily, others not so easily. I've found that the juicier the tomato, the easier to split, and vise-versa. b) See "a)" above. Excessive internal pressure and a thin skin. Other than cosmetics (and an occasional funny feeling in the mouth), these fruits are fine. c) Mature plants seem to suffer less from cracking; maybe hydrostatic pressure is more evenly distributed in the plant. Some gardeners swear by additional N, P, or K, but I just let it go. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!csn!stortek!cinnamon!norm Sat Jul 24 12:29:58 EDT 1993 Article: 19961 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!csn!stortek!cinnamon!norm From: norm@blackcat.stortek.com (Norm Abramowitz) Subject: Leaf Miners Message-ID: <1993Jul16.211301.21007@stortek.com> Followup-To: norm@blackcat.stortek.com Originator: norm@cinnamon Keywords: leaf miners, birch Sender: usenet@stortek.com Nntp-Posting-Host: cinnamon.stortek.com Organization: Storage Technology Corp. Distribution: usa Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 21:13:01 GMT Lines: 7 If anyone can tell me all they know about leaf miners and birch trees, I'd appreciate it. What are their habits like, etc.? Thank you, Norm (norm@blackcat.stortek.com) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!sifon!clouso.crim.ca!comback!oligojo!claude Sat Jul 24 12:29:58 EDT 1993 Article: 19962 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!sifon!clouso.crim.ca!comback!oligojo!claude From: claude@oligojo.login.qc.ca (Claude Gelinas Agr.) Subject: hosta exchange ? Organization: oligojo Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 19:49:09 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul16.194909.22151@oligojo.login.qc.ca> Lines: 9 Hi, does anyone interested in exchanging some hosta, or is there a list or a hosta group? claude -- ======================================================================== Claude Gelinas Agr. /\ claude@oligojo.login.qc.ca LE GRAND CHELATEUR... /Fe\ tel : 514 652 9764 Montreal, Que, Can \Mn/ Fax : 514 652 7861 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:29:59 EDT 1993 Article: 19963 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: poison ivy Message-ID: <1993Jul16.195956.14864@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 16 Jul 93 19:59:56 -0600 References: <226vp7$oi1@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 25 In article <226vp7$oi1@eagle.lerc.nasa.gov>, dvandrei@desperado.lerc.nasa.gov (Don Van Drei) writes: > In article , jdev@mitre.org (john dee) writes: > |> Any suggestions how to get rid of this stuff? > |> I'm looking for recommendations on what will kill the plants. > |> Thanks in advance. > > > Why kill them? The birds love the red berries, they look good ^^^^ white (the birds also spread the seeds that were in the white berries...) > in the fall, and you know where they are. So just don't touch them and > you'll be fine. Well, there are some places PI shouldn't be, IMHO. Like next to the latrines in a kid's camp. I've used Roundup (glyphosate) quite satisfactorily. I'm trying to find a few minutes to redo the poison ivy faqs, which are bit fragmented, but you can dig them out of the rec.gardens faq lists on sunsite.unc.edu. Kay Klier From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!halon!sybase!june Sat Jul 24 12:29:59 EDT 1993 Article: 19964 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!halon!sybase!june From: june@sybase.com (June Wong ) Subject: air cleaning plants Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. Distribution: na Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 19:48:58 GMT Lines: 7 I know this is probably an oft-asked question, but does someone have the list of houseplants which is supposed to clean toxic gases, etc., out of the air? Thanks! June From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!ichthous!mcgrew Sat Jul 24 12:30:00 EDT 1993 Article: 19965 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!ichthous!mcgrew From: mcgrew@ichthous.Eng.Sun.COM (Darin McGrew) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Espalier Books? Date: 17 Jul 1993 02:24:48 GMT Organization: Sun Lines: 15 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: ichthous A few of the gardening books I've read have recommended espalier-style pruning for growing fruit trees in small yards. Unfortunately, none of them have explained espalier in very much detail. I'm looking for a book that will discuss what fruit trees are suitable for espalier, what espalier techniques are appropriate for which fruit trees, how to train the trees in the various espalier styles, etc. Does anyone have any suggestions for books that discuss espalier in more detail? Thanks in advance. Darin.McGrew@Eng.Sun.COM The LORD said to him, "Who gave man his mouth? Who makes him deaf or dumb? Who gives him sight Soli Deo Gloria! or makes him blind? Is it not I, the LORD?" From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.udel.edu!bach.udel.edu!jwilson Sat Jul 24 12:30:00 EDT 1993 Article: 19966 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.udel.edu!bach.udel.edu!jwilson From: jwilson@bach.udel.edu (Jim Wilson) Subject: Re: hosta exchange ? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.udel.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: bach.udel.edu Organization: University of Delaware References: <1993Jul16.194909.22151@oligojo.login.qc.ca> Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1993 03:33:59 GMT Lines: 21 In article <1993Jul16.194909.22151@oligojo.login.qc.ca> claude@oligojo.login.qc.ca (Claude Gelinas Agr.) writes: >Hi, does anyone interested in exchanging some hosta, or is there a list or a >hosta group? > >claude >-- >======================================================================== You might try The American Hosta Society Robyn Duback, secretary 7802 NE 63rd Street Vancouver, WA 98662 Their dues are $19/year. -- Jim Wilson, Instructional Technology Center, University of Delaware Newark, Delaware 19716 jwilson@brahms.udel.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!gossip.pyramid.com!pyramid!infmx!ladybug!erika Sat Jul 24 12:30:01 EDT 1993 Article: 19967 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!gossip.pyramid.com!pyramid!infmx!ladybug!erika From: erika@ladybug.informix.com (erika) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Something's killing my zucchini plants! Message-ID: <1993Jul16.201909.26421@informix.com> Date: 16 Jul 93 20:19:09 GMT References: <224j8p$6pe@morrow.stanford.edu> Sender: news@informix.com (Usenet News) Reply-To: erika@ladybug.informix.com Organization: Informix Software Lines: 16 Only once in my 11 years in California I did not get this problem. It is a fungus, called snowy mildew, and it lives in the ground. A friend of mine who is a plant pathologist, recommended two solutions. 1) Control the problem w/ sulfur, which is a natural, non toxic element 2) Plant only variaties that are resistant to the fungus. She couldn't name out of the top of her head any such... I haven't tried any of the methods. I kind of gave up on zuccs, which is a pity. The first time I planted them - and first and last time that they didn't get this stupid fungus - I had zucchini comming out of my ears... miss it... - erika From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!mcdhup!src4src!bluedg!FredMail Sat Jul 24 12:30:02 EDT 1993 Article: 19968 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!mcdhup!src4src!bluedg!FredMail From: philip@bluedg.linet.org (Philip Perlman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: FULL SUN ground cover Message-ID: <742723220.AA00356@bluedg.linet.org> Date: 14 Jul 93 20:49:02 GMT Sender: FredMail@bluedg.linet.org Lines: 14 Hello Carol! On Wednesday July 07 1993, Carol L. Briggs was seen whispering to All: CLB> When we were on vacation last week in Pennsylvania I noticed a marvelous CLB> ground cover on all the bankends on both sides of the highway. They CLB> were in full bloom-light and dark pink flowers and completely covered CLB> the bankends-even very steep ones. The flowers were Crown Vetch. I CLB> have a horrible bankend at home which I can't grow anything on-I even CLB> tried the Mediliand Roses which died so I am going to try the Crown Vetch CLB> also. Spring Hill Nurseries had them for around $50 for 100 plants. Carol Crown Vetch is wonderful for steep banks etc. The only thing is it is very invasive, so be prepared!.ttyl. /* Phil */ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!rutgers!mcdhup!src4src!bluedg!FredMail Sat Jul 24 12:30:02 EDT 1993 Article: 19969 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!rutgers!mcdhup!src4src!bluedg!FredMail From: philip@bluedg.linet.org (Philip Perlman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Transplanting dahlia Message-ID: <742723220.AA00357@bluedg.linet.org> Date: 14 Jul 93 20:52:14 GMT Sender: FredMail@bluedg.linet.org Lines: 12 Hello Nathan! On Thursday July 08 1993, Nathan Collins was seen whispering to All: NC> I have 4 dahlias I planted earlier this summer that are growing well, NC> just not in the right location. I planted probably 8 in a row in front NC> of my garden and only 4 came up in the middle. Can I spread them out? NC> What precautions should I take? I would wait till next year. I don't think that by this time they will take too kindly to transplanting. Mine (even further North) are 1-2 feet high already. /* Phil */ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!acheron!clarke Sat Jul 24 12:30:03 EDT 1993 Article: 19970 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!acheron!clarke From: clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke/10240000) Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: Sender: news@acheron.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: acheron Reply-To: clarke@acheron.UUCP Organization: Ciliophora Associates References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> <1993Jul16.190533.14213@infonode.ingr.com> <22774d$kcm@meaddata.meaddata.com> Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1993 13:33:54 GMT Lines: 12 In article <22774d$kcm@meaddata.meaddata.com>, barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) writes: |> Aarrgh!! You mean I quit eating meat to avoid things like colon cancer, have |> developed a liking for hot peppers, and now this?!! Is this true? No, Louisiana includes some of the most horrific diets on the planet. Some of the dishes from northern LA are enough to raise your cholesterol level by 20 points if you just look at them. Instant heart attack if you should just taste a little ... The real problem with LA is that the food tastes SO GOOD!!! I gain five or more pounds every time I visit New Orleans. Sadly for my diet, I've found a grocery that will ship taso/boudin/sausage airmail to NY. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!adobe!kolling Sat Jul 24 12:30:03 EDT 1993 Article: 19971 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Brandywine tomatoes Message-ID: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1993 16:11:55 GMT Lines: 9 My tomatoes are finally recovering from the weirdo extremely hot weather of a couple of weeks ago, and starting to set fruit. Except the Brandywine plant. I planted this because Organic Gardening mag said Brandywine was the "most flavorful" tomato. Does anyone have any experience/words of wisdom about Brandywines? I notice that the Brandywine plants are rather leggy/less bushy compared to their tomato plant neighbors of other varieties,but I'm assuming that's perhaps because they're heirloom plants...... From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!adobe!kolling Sat Jul 24 12:30:04 EDT 1993 Article: 19972 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: veggies in shady area? Message-ID: <1993Jul17.161740.13713@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1993 16:17:40 GMT Lines: 6 In my never-ending quest to have more plants and less lawn, I'm trying to figure out what to do with a 4 foot wide lawn area between my vegetable garden and a tree/privet border. It seems too shady to me to grow veggies, but perhaps I'm wrong...are there vegetables that aren't fussy about shade? I'm in N. CA. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!isuvax.iastate.edu!TNEZ3 Sat Jul 24 12:30:05 EDT 1993 Article: 19973 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!isuvax.iastate.edu!TNEZ3 From: tnez3@isuvax.iastate.edu (april ammons) Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: Sender: news@news.iastate.edu (USENET News System) Reply-To: tnez3@isuvax.iastate.edu Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa References: <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com> Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1993 17:39:28 GMT Lines: 7 In article <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com>, sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger) writes: >So how wet is it in Iowa? Are the gardens that aren't underwater alright? Well, my backyard garden is shot. But I'm certainly seeing more varieties of fumgus and mold than ever before. ;-) April From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!Germany.EU.net!mcsun!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat Jul 24 12:30:05 EDT 1993 Article: 19974 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.arts.bonsai Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!Germany.EU.net!mcsun!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Subject: Peach pit planting Message-ID: Summary: How do I sow my peach pits? Keywords: peaches, bonsai Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1993 20:46:04 GMT Lines: 21 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:19974 rec.arts.bonsai:907 To be honest they're not peaches, but nectarines, sort of like shaved peaches. I bought 1 kg of them, and they're awfully expensive around here. I bet this is a FAQ, but how do I go about planting the pits? I realise that I probably won't get any nectarines, or if I do they won't be very tasty, but I'd like to have some flowers. If I succeed I'd like to train it as a bonsai. Oh yes, I tried cracking one pit with a nutcracker, but the seed broke. Would filing be better? It worked for the olives. How long germination time can I expect? --Ceci, (s)peachless Ps: Please note the crossposting, direct your follow-up. I read both groups. -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== "My name is Inigo Montoya. You killed my father. Prepare to die!" From the movie _The_Princess_Bride_ =================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!caen!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!cattell.psych.upenn.edu!marvit Sat Jul 24 12:30:06 EDT 1993 Article: 19975 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!caen!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!cattell.psych.upenn.edu!marvit From: marvit@cattell.psych.upenn.edu (Peter Marvit) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Leaf Miners Message-ID: Date: 17 Jul 93 20:59:25 GMT References: <1993Jul16.211301.21007@stortek.com> Sender: news@netnews.upenn.edu Followup-To: rec.gardens Distribution: usa Organization: Psychology Dept, U. Pennsylvania Lines: 24 Nntp-Posting-Host: cattell.psych.upenn.edu In-reply-to: norm@blackcat.stortek.com's message of 16 Jul 93 21:13:01 GMT According to the info I've gotten, due to invasion on my new weeping birch, leaf miners are perennial pests for birches. They go through several stages and reproductive cycles in the spring. The preferred topical insecticide is Lindane (*awful* stuff) sprayed early spring on first notice of infestation, then approximately monthly until July. There is also a systemic (Isotex?) which will help prevent them, but is not effective for existing infections. i know of no "organic" solutions to leaf miners. The insecticides are *very* toxic, alas, but it's either that or my little birch gets decimated (though it's suffering from other things, now). These little guys live *inside* the leaves and eat their way inside, forming either little trails (for many plants) or a "blister" (on birches). The leaf dies, the larva metamorphs, creates more pests on other leaves, and so it goes. Go to your local nursery or Home Center and look up the big Ortho book. -Peter : Peter Marvit : : Psychology Department, University of Pennsylvania : : 3815 Walnut St., Philadelphia, PA 19104 w:215/898-6274 h:215/387-6433 : From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!csus.edu!netcom.com!neoncap Sat Jul 24 12:30:07 EDT 1993 Article: 19976 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!csus.edu!netcom.com!neoncap From: neoncap@netcom.com (Tyler K. Wong) Subject: Re: CHERRY PITTER Message-ID: Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest) References: <9743.17843@stratus.SWDC.Stratus.COM> <214sgv$fqs@news.u.washington.edu> Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1993 23:50:13 GMT Lines: 18 In article <214sgv$fqs@news.u.washington.edu> kcarroll@stein.pathology.washington.edu (Kris Carroll) writes: > >I have one of these (Westmark Kernomat - der "schnell doppelentkerner) and >I was just using it on 5lbs of bings (a gift from a friend at work) BUT - >be carefull, go slowly and check through the pitted cherries. If you are >pitting bulk a few stones can (and have) end up in the pie. I am very >paraniod about checking the fruit several times. My mom is discovering the wonders of netnews and asked me to ask how to get one of these cherry pitters. Please send replies directly to me, as I don't read this newsgroup very often. Unless you want to post on rec.gambling, where I'll be sure to see it. Tyler K. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!massey.ac.nz!jvanzijl Sat Jul 24 12:30:07 EDT 1993 Article: 19977 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato.ac.nz!comp.vuw.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!massey.ac.nz!jvanzijl Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Ladders Message-ID: From: J.VanZijll@massey.ac.nz (Jeroen) Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1993 01:54:14 GMT Sender: news@massey.ac.nz (USENET News System) Organization: School of Maths and Info Sciences, Massey University, NZ. Lines: 4 Does anyone have any information about HYDRAULIC ORCHARD LADDERS. I am after makes and models and addresses of manufacturers and/or distributers. Thanks, Jeroen From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!csus.edu!netcom.com!cbourne Sat Jul 24 12:30:08 EDT 1993 Article: 19978 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!csus.edu!netcom.com!cbourne From: cbourne@netcom.com (Carol Bourne) Subject: White Spots on Squash Leaves Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) Distribution: usa Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1993 03:01:40 GMT Lines: 0 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!npirs!jheath Sat Jul 24 12:30:08 EDT 1993 Article: 19979 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!npirs!jheath From: jheath@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Jim Heath) Subject: No Mow grass? Message-ID: <1993Jul18.071226.4400@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> Organization: Center for Environmental and Regulatory Information Systems, Purdue University Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1993 07:12:26 GMT Lines: 11 There was a recent thread about no mow grasses for lawns. Did anyone get the name(s) of the varieties? A local lady saw some experiments at OSU (I think) and said that one variety was Dwarf Red Fescue. I have made the rounds here and found a couple of Fescues, but no Red Dwarf. Thanks for any help. Oh the area to be seeded is sunny. -- Disclaimer: These are my opinions alone. "Land of song, said the warrior bard, Jim Heath From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!rosie.uh.edu!younglove Sat Jul 24 12:30:09 EDT 1993 Article: 19980 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!rosie.uh.edu!younglove From: younglove@rosie.uh.edu (Younglove, James N.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Leaf Miners Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 18 Jul 1993 08:26 CDT Organization: University of Houston Lines: 24 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <18JUL199308262176@rosie.uh.edu> References: <1993Jul16.211301.21007@stortek.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: rosie.uh.edu News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 In article , marvit@cattell.psych.upenn.edu (Peter Marvit) writes... >According to the info I've gotten, due to invasion on my new weeping >birch, leaf miners are perennial pests for birches. They go through >several stages and reproductive cycles in the spring. > >The preferred topical insecticide is Lindane (*awful* stuff) sprayed >early spring on first notice of infestation, then approximately monthly >until July. There is also a systemic (Isotex?) which will help prevent >them, but is not effective for existing infections. i know of no >"organic" solutions to leaf miners. The insecticides are *very* toxic, >alas, but it's either that or my little birch gets decimated (though it's >suffering from other things, now). > They are very hard to control with chemicals since the larvae live inside the leaf. About the most satisfactory method I've found is to go out each day with a ziplock baggie and pull off the leaves with the blisters or trails and pop them in the baggie. Close it securely and drop it into the trash. This interrupts the chain and, if you're lucky, the infestation will slowly die out as you eliminate more and more of the larvae. If your tree is very big, this may be impractical, but it works fairly well for smaller plants (eg tomatoes). Lots of luck! Jim From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!rouge!mxa2677 Sat Jul 24 12:30:09 EDT 1993 Article: 19981 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!rouge!mxa2677 From: mxa2677@ucs.usl.edu (Axelrod Michael) Subject: Propagating Gardenias Message-ID: <1993Jul18.142925.10758@usl.edu> Sender: anon@usl.edu (Anonymous NNTP Posting) Organization: Univ. of Southwestern La., Lafayette Distribution: usa Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1993 14:29:25 GMT Lines: 10 Hi, I couldn't find a FAQ on gardenias, so I guess I'll just have to ask for any advice on propagating gardenias. If this is a FAQ, I would appreciate an answer by E-mail rather than waste bandwidth. Thanks in advance. -- Michael J. Axelrod mxa2677@ucs.usl.edu University of Southwestern Louisiana -- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!ersys!Freddy!jerome.yuzyk Sat Jul 24 12:30:10 EDT 1993 Article: 19982 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!ersys!Freddy!jerome.yuzyk From: jerome.yuzyk@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca (Jerome Yuzyk) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: <50.7461.1066.0N001530@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca> Date: Sat, 17 Jul 93 16:17:00 -0520 Distribution: world Organization: Freddy's Place BBS - Edmonton, AB - 403-456-4241 Lines: 23 -> *@FROM :UA098@FREENET.VICTORIA.BC.CA -> Message-ID: <1993Jul14.201253.305@camins.camosun.bc.ca> -> Newsgroup: rec.gardens -> At a Szechuan restaurant one evening, with tears streaming -> down my face and my mouth on fire, my mother-in-law Margaret -> gave me the solution to your problem: follow the hot stuff with -> a bit of sugar. Whether it's plain white sugar or a bit of an -> orange doesn't seem to matter, just about anything with sugar in -> it will take the heat away immediately. Also something very slightly acidic. Yogurt served with curries, for example. .-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-.-^-. Jerome Yuzyk jerome.yuzyk@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca a boy and his doo-dads Edmonton Alberta Canada Life is a bifurcating chaotic attractor, and then you die. * RM 1.0 * Eval Day 7 * Old MacDonald had a computer, with EIA I/O... From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!garnet.berkeley.edu!chesl Sat Jul 24 12:30:10 EDT 1993 Article: 19983 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!garnet.berkeley.edu!chesl From: chesl@garnet.berkeley.edu (Gail Chesler) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: yellow-jackets (a nest in my yard) Date: 18 Jul 1993 15:50:28 GMT Organization: University of California, Berkeley Lines: 4 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <22brg4$sft@agate.berkeley.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: garnet.berkeley.edu How can I get rid of a nest of yellow-jackets in the ground in my yard? Normal commercial products available which will work? Any suggestions? e-mail or post ((chesl@garnet.berkeley.edu) Thanks, gail chesler From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!barrnet.net!pandora!mitra Sat Jul 24 12:30:11 EDT 1993 Article: 19984 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!barrnet.net!pandora!mitra From: mitra@path.net (Mitra) Subject: Stephenotis - when to prune? Organization: Pandora Systems Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1993 18:02:11 GMT Message-ID: X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Lines: 7 My gran wants to know how and when to prune her Stephenotis, she lives in the South of England, so maybe its a different time of the year there? Any help appreciated, - Mitra From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!casbah.acns.nwu.edu!rhalgren Sat Jul 24 12:30:11 EDT 1993 Article: 19985 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!casbah.acns.nwu.edu!rhalgren From: rhalgren@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Robert Halgren) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: yellow-jackets (a nest in my yard) Date: 18 Jul 1993 19:21:56 GMT Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston IL Lines: 11 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <22c7sk$7ee@news.acns.nwu.edu> References: <22brg4$sft@agate.berkeley.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: unseen1.acns.nwu.edu In article <22brg4$sft@agate.berkeley.edu> chesl@garnet.berkeley.edu (Gail Chesler) writes: >How can I get rid of a nest of yellow-jackets in the ground in my >yard? Normal commercial products available which will work? Any >suggestions? e-mail or post ((chesl@garnet.berkeley.edu) Thanks, >gail chesler Get a family of skunks. Skunks love ground wasps. And they are cute. Rob From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!tamsun.tamu.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam Sat Jul 24 12:30:12 EDT 1993 Article: 19986 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!tamsun.tamu.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam From: stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Corny questions Date: 18 Jul 1993 21:21:03 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 14 Message-ID: References: <223ggjINNb3j@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> <1993Jul15.115102.467@walter.cray.com> <1993Jul15.235550.6577@casbs.Stanford.EDU> <1993Jul16.124308.16503@walter.cray.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: barker-6-6.mit.edu In-reply-to: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com's message of 16 Jul 93 12:43:07 CDT Well, I just picked my Early Sunglows, but the silks were brown almost to the tip, so I probably waited a bit too long. I presume that the ears with whiter kernels were younger, and those were excellent for eating raw. The creamier (coloured) ears (presumably older) were better cooked. Time from planting to harvest was about two months. Now if only I had planted some more... Shih Tung Chem E Best l'il Tech School in Cambridge From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail Sat Jul 24 12:30:12 EDT 1993 Article: 19987 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail From: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Brewing plants in Denmark?! Date: 18 Jul 1993 20:36:52 -0400 Organization: The Dorsai Embassy Lines: 19 Message-ID: <22cqb4$57b@dorsai.dorsai.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: dorsai.dorsai.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] A friend of mine was visiting Denmark and saw a couple of plants in the Norresunoby garden, along with their latin names and Danish names but doesn't know what their common english names might be. He brews beer (as I do) and from their swedish names they may have something to do with brewing. They are; Latin Danish Filipendula ulmaria almmjodurt Filipendula hexapetalia knoldmjodort If anyone has any idea of what the common names of these plants are and how they might be used, I would highly appreciate your assistance. -- ~ "...the minds of its leaders are blown away ~ David Gurzynski ~ ~ scattered like old newspapers ~ Brooklyn NY ~ ~ blown through a cemetery." ~ dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org ~ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:30:13 EDT 1993 Article: 19988 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: need ideas for plant i.d. markers Message-ID: Date: 18 Jul 93 22:44:14 GMT References: Distribution: usa Organization: Megatest Corporation Lines: 28 In article sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan) writes: >I really like the 8-inch white plastic stake-with-writing >area markers. Anything smaller gets lost, and I like to leave >them in place all winter to mark bulb positions etc. >They are a bit expensive, and if I could find a free substitute >I could really use a few hundred. Last year I tried cutting >plastic water bottles into strips and writing on them with >china marker. They were too floppy and didn't stand up well >to winter. I wonder what other clever reusables people have >hit on with success? > >have hacksaw and scissors, ready to cobble. > I like to use popsicle sticks for freebies, but you have to use a Sharpie marking pen to get the ink to "stay" If you like using the sticks I think you can buy them at a craft store pretty cheaply. I got lucky this year, and in picking up some used garden trays at Common Ground (they have a place to re-cycle garden pots & stuff) I noticed that the person that had the trays had planted dozens and dozens of mixed begonias and left the markers in the trays. Enough to mark the back and use on my 50 or more pepper plants! --Kim Fisher -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:30:13 EDT 1993 Article: 19989 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Message-ID: Date: 18 Jul 93 23:04:42 GMT References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> Organization: Megatest Corporation Lines: 32 In article <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) writes: > >My tomatoes are finally recovering from the weirdo extremely hot >weather of a couple of weeks ago, and starting to set fruit. >Except the Brandywine plant. I planted this because Organic Gardening >mag said Brandywine was the "most flavorful" tomato. Does anyone have >any experience/words of wisdom about Brandywines? I notice that the >Brandywine plants are rather leggy/less bushy compared to their tomato >plant neighbors of other varieties,but I'm assuming that's perhaps >because they're heirloom plants...... Mine has only set **ONE** so far. In fact, the only tomato plants I have with fruit in any quanity are the Pearson and the Roma that I got from local nurseries. I grew a Pink Brandywine last year and the fruit is absolutely unforgettable. When Scott bit into one last year he rapsodized, "now I know why they call then love apples...." Last year (and this year, for that matter) the vine was extremely leggy and prone to sunburn. This year I planted it nearer the shade and plan to watch it more carefully to stake and support it when it needs it. I didn't get a terrific yield from my plant last year, but boy, was it ever worth the space! I'm growing a purple calabash (from seed) this year which is also supposed to taste terrific, but no fruit here AT ALL! Has anybody grown these? Am I in the wrong climate? (Bay area) Good luck with your Brandywines, I think you'll be happy you grew one!! --Kim Fisher -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins Sat Jul 24 12:30:14 EDT 1993 Article: 19990 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins From: jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Date: 19 Jul 1993 01:57:39 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 50 Message-ID: <22cv2j$8hq@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes : >In article <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling ) writes: >> >>My tomatoes are finally recovering from the weirdo extremely hot >>weather of a couple of weeks ago, and starting to set fruit. >>Except the Brandywine plant. I planted this because Organic Gardening >>mag said Brandywine was the "most flavorful" tomato. Does anyone have >>any experience/words of wisdom about Brandywines? I notice that the >>Brandywine plants are rather leggy/less bushy compared to their tomato >>plant neighbors of other varieties,but I'm assuming that's perhaps >>because they're heirloom plants...... > >Mine has only set **ONE** so far. In fact, the only tomato plants I have >with fruit in any quanity are the Pearson and the Roma that I got from >local nurseries. I grew a Pink Brandywine last year and the fruit is >absolutely unforgettable. When Scott bit into one last year he rapsodized, "n ow I know why they call then love apples...." > >Last year (and this year, for that matter) the vine was extremely leggy >and prone to sunburn. This year I planted it nearer the shade and plan to >watch it more carefully to stake and support it when it needs it. I didn't >get a terrific yield from my plant last year, but boy, was it ever worth the >space! I'm growing a purple calabash (from seed) this year which is also >supposed to taste terrific, but no fruit here AT ALL! Has anybody grown these ? >Am I in the wrong climate? (Bay area) > >Good luck with your Brandywines, I think you'll be happy you grew one!! > >--Kim Fisher The Brandywine tomatoes I have grown the past few years are without question the most flavorful tomatoes I've ever tasted. I have childhood memories of August evening suppers in Grandma's kitchen on an Illinois farm with the crickets chirping and the oscillating fan on in the corner circulating the humid air. Grandma had a dish of fresh-harvested sliced tomatoes on the large oak table with the plastic tablecloth. Ah, real tomato memories you may be thinking...no offense to Grandma but Brandywine tomatoes are better than the memories you have of your best tomatoes... And they're hard to grow and they crack and they don't always yield abundantly, but like Kim says, they're worth it! JH Horticulture Dept/OSU From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!adobe!kolling Sat Jul 24 12:30:14 EDT 1993 Article: 19991 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Message-ID: <1993Jul19.041224.11727@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 04:12:24 GMT Lines: 12 In article sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes: > >Last year (and this year, for that matter) the [Brandywine] vine was >extremely leggy >and prone to sunburn. This year I planted it nearer the shade ... Hm, I have three Brandywine plants, and the first one I planted does have quite a few yellow leaves on it. The other two, which I planted later, look fine, but they escaped the 105 degree days. I was assuming the yellow leaves were Wierd Evil Disease, since OG mag also said Brandywines were disease susceptible, but maybe it is sunburn... From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder Sat Jul 24 12:30:15 EDT 1993 Article: 19992 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!henry.ece.cmu.edu!snyder From: snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder) Subject: Re: poison ivy Message-ID: Sender: news@fs7.ece.cmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Physics Department, Carnegie Mellon University References: <39482@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 05:43:11 GMT Lines: 19 In article <39482@oasys.dt.navy.mil> cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli) writes: > > There might be something somewhere that will kill poison >ivy - but it would probably be far too toxic to use safely >on a yard where people/kids/pets are. I've found nothing >short of digging up the stuff - roots and all - kills it. I havve a question along these lines. We have some poison ivy growing along the parking lot at our community gardens, that it would be nice to get rid of, if it's not too hard (it's where young children or unsuspecting people could stray into it). Will Round-up kill it? Any other ideas? Thanks John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!rpierce Sat Jul 24 12:30:15 EDT 1993 Article: 19993 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!dog.ee.lbl.gov!network.ucsd.edu!rpierce From: rpierce@chem.ucsd.edu (Roxanne Rohmann) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Pole Beans Date: 19 Jul 1993 06:16:09 GMT Organization: Chemistry Dept, UC San Diego Lines: 14 Message-ID: <22de79INNb0u@network.ucsd.edu> References: <1993Jul18.071226.4400@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: chedccf0.ucsd.edu I have tried three different times already this summer to grow "Kentucky Blue" pole beans. Each time I've tried about 15 seeds. Out of all of them, I've had three sprout. I've tried soaking them for an hour, two hours, and four hours. I've drowned them (tried to keep the seeds moist), left them unwatered, put them in full sun, put them in peat pots, put them directly in the garden, and have reached a fairly high level of frustration. I live in San Diego, somewhat near the coast (cool damp nights and early mornings, sunny and 78-82 degrees during the day). Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong, or what I need to try? ---Roxanne Pierce From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ac571 Sat Jul 24 12:30:16 EDT 1993 Article: 19994 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ac571 From: ac571@Freenet.carleton.ca (Edwinna Von Baeyer) Subject: Re: EARWIG INVASION Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Reply-To: ac571@Freenet.carleton.ca (Edwinna Von Baeyer) Organization: The National Capital Freenet References: Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1993 23:23:32 GMT Lines: 25 In a previous article, psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) says: >I've heard some of the usual controls such as corrugated cardboard, >pipes, beer or vegetable oil in a margarine container and crumpled >paper in flower pots set upside down on short sticks. However, >someone suggested that they are unaware of any natural predators in >North America. > >I have heard that one or two species of bird loves them...I just can't >remember which as I don't currently have an earwig problem. Maybe >someone out there can identify which and how to attract it. > >One other predator that I *know* eats earwigs is the Praying Mantis. >If there is lots of food available for it, the Mantis will stick >around in your garden. > I've heard that toads eat earwigs -- have you heard this anywhere? Happing hunting! Edwinna von Baeyer -- Edwinna von Baeyer Writer/Researcher/Editor email: ac571@freenet.carleton.ca From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:30:16 EDT 1993 Article: 19995 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 18 Jul 93 14:25 PDT Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Message-ID: <1453300268@igc.apc.org> References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 16 I grew one last year and it tasted better than almost any tomato I've ever had. I say almost because I'm madly fond of yellow pear too. This year I have 3 plants in cages. They do get big, mostly because they are indeterminate. They are not particularly prolific, or at least last year's plant wasn't. On the other hand, they seem fairly resistant to blossom end rot and have held up well during our latest spate of exceptionally hot weather. You might try training your Brandywine on a trellis. That's what I do with yello pear which is also a major massive vine. Or you could try pincing out the side shoots (pinching, that is) and growing it up a tall stake. You'll get fewer fruit but the ones you get will get big. Make sure that if you don't get an inch of rain in a give week, you give the plant a gallon or two of water. You might want to add a little fish emulsion and seaweed extract to the brew every month or so. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:30:18 EDT 1993 Article: 19996 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 18 Jul 93 14:28 PDT Subject: Re: veggies in shady area? Message-ID: <1453300269@igc.apc.org> References: <1993Jul17.161740.13713@adobe.com> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 3 You might try leafy greens like lettuce, arugula, Asian mustards,etc and also root crops like beets, turnips, etc. Lettuce loves shade in mid summer. We grow it under shade cloth here. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!pipex!bnr.co.uk!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!planet.bt.co.uk!polaris!prk Sat Jul 24 12:30:18 EDT 1993 Article: 19997 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!pipex!bnr.co.uk!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!planet.bt.co.uk!polaris!prk From: prk@planet.bt.co.uk (Peter Knight) Subject: Re: need ideas for plant i.d. markers Message-ID: Sender: news@planet.bt.co.uk Organization: BT Labs, Martlesham Heath, Ipswich, UK. References: Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 08:24:06 GMT Lines: 21 sundare@watson.ibm.com (C. Sundaresan) writes: >I really like the 8-inch white plastic stake-with-writing >area markers. Anything smaller gets lost, and I like to leave >them in place all winter to mark bulb positions etc. >They are a bit expensive, and if I could find a free substitute >I could really use a few hundred. Last year I tried cutting >plastic water bottles into strips and writing on them with >china marker. They were too floppy and didn't stand up well >to winter. I wonder what other clever reusables people have >hit on with success? >have hacksaw and scissors, ready to cobble. Washing-up liquid bottles, the 2-pt size? The curve of the plastic makes the label stiffer than if it was just flat Peter Knight #include From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!npirs!jheath Sat Jul 24 12:30:19 EDT 1993 Article: 19998 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!npirs!jheath From: jheath@CERIS.Purdue.EDU (Jim Heath) Subject: Re: poison ivy Message-ID: <1993Jul19.083609.17057@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> Organization: Center for Environmental and Regulatory Information Systems, Purdue University References: Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 08:36:09 GMT Lines: 22 >From article , by snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu (John Snyder): > In article <39482@oasys.dt.navy.mil> cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli) writes: >> >> There might be something somewhere that will kill poison >>ivy - but it would probably be far too toxic to use safely >>on a yard where people/kids/pets are. I've found nothing >>short of digging up the stuff - roots and all - kills it. > > Catnip seems to get rid of it. My Mom thought highly of it and it does seem to work. She got the idea from a farm magazine. Sometimes the leaves will help with the rash as well. Rub green leaves on the area. Of course, if it is really bad, please see a doctor ;-{). Be prepared for your property to become _very_ popular with the local cats though ;-{). -- Disclaimer: These are my opinions alone. "Land of song, said the warrior bard, Jim Heath From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a969 Sat Jul 24 12:30:20 EDT 1993 Article: 19999 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a969 From: Lynda_Murray@mindlink.bc.ca (Lynda Murray) Subject: Re: Keeping Bird from Figs Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1993 21:50:26 GMT Message-ID: <26725@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 10 I was just reading up on Figs . Today I planted my first ....Yes, even in BC,Canada. I'm sure they won't be as productive as ones in Southernly climes but 'any' would be nice. Harrowsmith magazine ..Nov.1990...a person writes that they saved their fruit from birds by putting paper bags over the optimum size fruit....securing them at the stem with a twist tie. Obviously this would be a big job if the fruit were plentiful but even saving some might be worth the trouble. The plant I purchased is a KADOTA FIG (green). -- Lynda-Murray@Mindlink.BC.CA. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a969 Sat Jul 24 12:30:20 EDT 1993 Article: 20000 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a969 From: Lynda_Murray@mindlink.bc.ca (Lynda Murray) Subject: Re: More tomato problems Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1993 22:03:23 GMT Message-ID: <26726@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 13 If the base leaves are browning remove them. If the fruit is large and has only to ripen they don't need much foliage....also, base foliage can assist pests and disease to climb your plants. I have removed all base and superfluous leaves at this point. Our Summer has been cool and damp this year and we could get the dreaded Tomato Blight at any time. My number one problem is that the fruit is getting so very heavy that the stalks are starting to slide down the poles. I thought this problem was solved by notching the stakes and tying at these points...alas, the best producing plants seem to have been stuck on notchless poles....the best laid plans of mice and Lynda have , again, gone astray. -- Lynda-Murray@Mindlink.BC.CA. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!clesun!dbernard Sat Jul 24 12:30:21 EDT 1993 Article: 20001 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!clesun!dbernard From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Corny questions Date: 19 Jul 1993 11:41:44 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22e19pINNet9@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> References: Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: clesun.central.sun.com Some of my silks are definitely brown, but when I fee for the cob inside the husk, it doesn't seem to be fully developed- long and narrow, with tapering to a point a centimeter or two before the silks... does this mean they are mature, but that they'll just be small? If I leave them on longer, will they fill out, or is it too late? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!pipex!bnr.co.uk!bnrgate!bmerh85!bmers248!sjane Sat Jul 24 12:30:21 EDT 1993 Article: 20002 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!pipex!bnr.co.uk!bnrgate!bmerh85!bmers248!sjane From: sjane@bmers248.bnr.ca (sjs) Subject: Re: Bat houses (was Re: white flies?) Message-ID: <1993Jul19.125518.8509@bmerh85.bnr.ca> Sender: news@bmerh85.bnr.ca (Usenet News) Organization: Irrelevant, Ottawa, Canada References: <226cam$pie@GRAPEVINE.LCS.MIT.EDU> Distribution: na Date: Mon, 19 Jul 93 12:55:18 GMT Lines: 32 In article <226cam$pie@GRAPEVINE.LCS.MIT.EDU> dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) writes: >joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan Maxfield UCNS) asks: > >: Anyway, while talking to my neighbors the other night we watched while >: about 5 bats feasted above my house and (we) started discussing the idea of >: putting some bat houses up around 'our' end of the street. Does >: anyone have planes for these? >The best popular book I know of on bats is "America's Neighborhood Bats" by >Merlin D. Tuttle, University of Texas Press, 1988. He stresses the need to >have a heat-retaining 'attic' in your bathouse. This partially explained >to me why bats don't like my bathouse, but I haven't gotten around to >rebuilding it yet. There's a whole society for protecting bats. I wrote to them for plans; they cost $2.25 (U.S) for either a 50-bat sized or a 100-bat sized house (specify which size). The address is: Bat Conservation International P.O. Box 550 Austin TX 78767-9767 U.S.A I haven't built one yet -- figure I'd better build my big pond first 'cause I hear they like water. Have Fun! sjs -- It's not irrelevant; it's a hippopotamus. sjane@BNR.CA From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:30:22 EDT 1993 Article: 20003 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Corny questions Message-ID: <1993Jul19.082905.15799@walter.cray.com> Lines: 27 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <223ggjINNb3j@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> <1993Jul15.115102.467@walter.cray.com> Date: 19 Jul 93 08:29:04 CDT In article , stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) writes: |> |> Well, I just picked my Early Sunglows, but the silks were brown almost to |> the tip, so I probably waited a bit too long. I presume that the ears |> with whiter kernels were younger, and those were excellent for eating |> raw. The creamier (coloured) ears (presumably older) were better |> cooked. Time from planting to harvest was about two months. |> |> Now if only I had planted some more... |> |> |> Shih Tung |> Chem E |> Best l'il Tech School |> in Cambridge I grow Early Sunglow while waiting for main crop varieties such as Silver Queen (my friends and relatives like it, I don't particularly), Kandy Korn EH (my favorite), and Golden Cross Bantam. Early Sunglow only makes a really high quality crop in cool weather with long days (70s and low 80s during the day and around 60 at night), the same kind of weather that often makes main crop varieties not crop until summer is almost over. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!randvax!aja.rand.org!Rand.ORG!Rodger_Madison Sat Jul 24 12:30:22 EDT 1993 Article: 20004 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!randvax!aja.rand.org!Rand.ORG!Rodger_Madison From: Rodger_Madison@Rand.ORG (Rodger Madison) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Corny questions Message-ID: <22e98t$ek6@aja.rand.org> Date: 19 Jul 93 13:57:49 GMT References: <223ggjINNb3j@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> <1993Jul15.115102.467@walter.cray.com> <1993Jul15.235550.6577@casbs.Stanford.EDU> <1993Jul16.124308.16503@walter.cray.com> Organization: RAND Corporation Lines: 16 NNTP-Posting-Host: didabal.rand.org In article <1993Jul16.124308.16503@walter.cray.com>, gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: |> In article <1993Jul15.235550.6577@casbs.Stanford.EDU>, kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) writes: |> |> In article <1993Jul15.115102.467@walter.cray.com> gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: |> |> >How long it takes from pollination to picking depends |> |> >on the temperatures. If your typical summer weather How long do you leave popcorn on the stalk? Do you have to treat it specially (e.g. drying) after it is picked? Thanks, Rodger From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!csd4.csd.uwm.edu!pkosidow Sat Jul 24 12:30:23 EDT 1993 Article: 20005 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!csd4.csd.uwm.edu!pkosidow From: pkosidow@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Paul G Kosidowski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pole Beans Date: 19 Jul 1993 15:02:48 GMT Organization: University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee Lines: 15 Message-ID: <22ed2oINNdvb@uwm.edu> References: <22de79INNb0u@network.ucsd.edu> Reply-To: pkosidow@csd4.csd.uwm.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4 Originator: pkosidow@csd4.csd.uwm.edu >From article <22de79INNb0u@network.ucsd.edu>, by rpierce@chem.ucsd.edu (Roxanne Rohmann): > I have tried three different times already this summer to grow > "Kentucky Blue" pole beans. Each time I've tried about 15 seeds. > Out of all of them, I've had three sprout. I've tried soaking them > for an hour, two hours, and four hours. I've drowned them (tried to > keep the seeds moist), left them unwatered, put them in full sun, > put them in peat pots, put them directly in the garden, and have > reached a fairly high level of frustration. Try soaking them until they begin to sprout. Keep them between folded sheets of damp paper towels until you notice sprouts forming. You might also want to use the innoculant used for bean and pea plants, you can find that at a garden store. Paul Kosidowski Milwaukee From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb Sat Jul 24 12:30:23 EDT 1993 Article: 20006 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!meaddata!barb From: barb@meaddata.com (Barb Bruns) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Date: 19 Jul 1993 15:35:35 GMT Organization: Mead Data Central, Dayton OH Lines: 26 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22ef07$8a9@meaddata.meaddata.com> References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> <1993Jul16.190533.14213@infonode.ingr.com> <22774d$kcm@meaddata.meaddata.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: moe.meaddata.com |> |> Aarrgh!! You mean I quit eating meat to avoid things like colon cancer, have |> |> developed a liking for hot peppers, and now this?!! Is this true? |> |> No, Louisiana includes some of the most horrific diets on the planet. Some |> of the dishes from northern LA are enough to raise your cholesterol level |> by 20 points if you just look at them. Instant heart attack if you should |> just taste a little ... |> |> The real problem with LA is that the food tastes SO GOOD!!! I gain five or |> more pounds every time I visit New Orleans. Sadly for my diet, I've found |> a grocery that will ship taso/boudin/sausage airmail to NY. Whew! That's a relief. Actually, I seem to remember reading that both garlic and peppers were possible agents in preventing heart disease, so this "negative effect" was a real emotional setback. Fortunately, I've never enjoyed real New Orleans cooking. Being fairly weak- willed, I guess I've lucked out! -- Barbara Bruns Technical Communications & Education The opinions expressed here by me are not necessarily those of Mead Data Central; nor would they much care about the things about which I have opinions. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah238 Sat Jul 24 12:30:24 EDT 1993 Article: 20007 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah238 From: ah238@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Joseph Zupko) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Rose Clubs Date: 19 Jul 1993 15:38:04 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 7 Message-ID: <22ef4s$qfl@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: pooh.ins.cwru.edu Looking for rose clubs that will trade newsletters. -- It may not be today, or tomorrow but the truth will comeout. AH238@CLEVELAND.FREENET.EDU --------->>>>>>>>>>JAZ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!mcsun!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat Jul 24 12:30:24 EDT 1993 Article: 20008 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!mcsun!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Subject: Pictures of your gardens Message-ID: Summary: I'd like to see other people's gardens! Keywords: gif, picture, photo Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 15:27:06 GMT Lines: 15 One thing about rec.gardens that irks me, is the way people tell you about all the wonderful things they grow, but you never get to see it for yourself. To remedy this, I've taken some photos of my garden today, and I'm going to find a way to scan them and put them in one of the pictures groups. I would love to see other people's gardens, so if you have the opportunity, could you do the same thing with your gardens? I'd love to see Jim's irises! --Ceci -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== "The number of rational hypotheses that can explain any given phenomenon is infinite." Phaedrus' law from RM Pirsig's _Zen_and_the_Art_of_Motorcycle_Maintenance_ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!sprengt0664 Sat Jul 24 12:30:25 EDT 1993 Article: 20009 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!sprengt0664 From: sprengt0664@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Neglected shrubs: save or replace? Message-ID: <1993Jul19.113024.14902@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 19 Jul 93 11:30:24 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 17 Back in the mid-1980's, my family moved into a house whose previous owner had neglected the yard. There was an excessively overgrown privet hedge surrounding the yard on two sides. (Actually, I think it would be more appropriately described as a jungle.) Anyway, in late November, after the bushes had gone dormant for the winter, we got a hold of a chainsaw and spent almost the entire Thanksgiving weekend cutting those buggers almost completely down to ground level. The next spring, they grew back, and we were then able to maintain the hedge and keep it pruned to the desired level. We didn't live there very long (less than three years), but we never had any more difficulties with the hedge. I don't know if this technique will work for all woody shrubs. If you are unsure, you might want to take a branch sample to your local nursery and ask the manager. This is how my family found out that privets could be pruned in this way. Timothy J. Sprengeler Student, University of Northern Iowa From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv Sat Jul 24 12:30:26 EDT 1993 Article: 20010 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv From: nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA) Subject: Worms was Re: Fly Maggots & Compost Message-ID: Keywords: Try Vermiculture Sender: news@ohsu.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: 137.53.56.80 Organization: Oregon Health Sciences University References: <1993Jul15.203615.7933@ico.isc.com> Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 16:03:13 GMT Lines: 36 In article <1993Jul15.203615.7933@ico.isc.com> carnes@ico.isc.com (Steve Carnes) writes: > rlk@bonnie.Rational.COM (Robert Kitzberger) writes: >>I'm curious: how do you separate the worms from the castings? Does the >>box magically do this for you? I keep having mental images of sticking >>a shovel into a box teeming with worms... and I thought turning >>compost in a box was tricky ;-) >According to St. Mary (Appelhof, the patron saint of vermiculture), one >pulls all the processed material (together with worms) to one side and >puts fresh bedding and vegetation in the empty side. Voila! the worms >migrate. It ain't never that easy. I ended up taking the stuff out in >small buckets, two at a time. After the buckets had sat in the sunshine >for a half hour, the worms escaped towards the middle, so I could remove >the top third. It took several iterations before all the worms were >separated from their goodies and returned to the box. The castings, by >the way, are incredible -- just a cupful added to a houseplant and >slightly dug in makes it go nuts. >-- >Steve Carnes carnes@ico.isc.com uucp: {ncar,nbires}!ico!carnes > "It's fun to have fun, but you have to know how." - Dr. Seuss Steve, I must admit that I haven't purchased or checked out Mary Appelhof's book yet, so I have no experience to go on. The little brochure that I got from the composting workshop I attended indicated that all you have to do to get the worms to "migrate" is to push the bedding (only) to one side and feed only on that side for *several days*. That is, you don't put any fresh bedding or any new vegetation on the side you want to clear of castings, so the worms move over for cover and food. Is this what you do? I am wondering how long you wait for the worms to move in the box (though it appears that they are obstinate about this). I would like to read accounts from people who successfully raise worms, as I am girding my loins for a try at this next year. -Marsie Nufer (nuferv@ohsu.edu) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!mkjensen Sat Jul 24 12:30:26 EDT 1993 Article: 20011 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!mkjensen From: mkjensen@iastate.edu (Martha K Jensen) Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: Sender: news@news.iastate.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, IA References: <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com> Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 16:19:31 GMT Lines: 21 In article tnez3@isuvax.iastate.edu writes: >In article <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com>, sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger) writes: >>So how wet is it in Iowa? Are the gardens that aren't underwater alright? > >Well, my backyard garden is shot. But I'm certainly seeing more >varieties of fumgus and mold than ever before. ;-) There's nothing wrong with my garden that a few months of sunshine wouldn't cure... The tomato plants are huge, with lots of green tomatoes, but we've only had two ripen and they taste like cardboard since there's so much water and so little sun. Likewise the peppers. My radishes all bolted before making bulbs, and the zuchinni (like everyone else's complaints) isn't doing anything. Aargh! At least I'm on high ground so my corn isn't drowning like the fields down the hill next to the skunk river... Maybe next summer will be better... -Martha mkjensen@iastate.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Sat Jul 24 12:30:27 EDT 1993 Article: 20012 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Neglected shrubs: save or replace? Message-ID: Date: 19 Jul 93 16:17:00 GMT References: <23071612491567@vms2.macc.wisc.edu> Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T Lines: 20 In article <23071612491567@vms2.macc.wisc.edu> DBBARBER@macc.wisc.edu (Deborah B. Barber) writes: >When woody shrubs have been neglected, that is, not pruned for years, >can they be helped with severe pruning? Or should they be removed and replaced? >These are about 6' high, with leaves only at the outer tips of branches. > (lines omitted) It depends on the shrubs, but often you can prune, and it can be easier than replacing. This is especially true of taxus. After digging out and replacing two overgrown bushes, I read that you can cut them back and they will fill in again. I tried that on the remaining bushes and it worked, although for a year they looked sorta bad. Taxus is best cut back in January or February, before new growth starts. A rule of thumb for severe pruning is to THIN IT OUT, and not just prune the outer branches. Thinning, taking out big branches from the inside, opens up the plant, lets light in, and looks more natural than the pruning "haircuts" you often see. Dave Daulton From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Sat Jul 24 12:30:27 EDT 1993 Article: 20013 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Brewing plants in Denmark?! Message-ID: Date: 19 Jul 93 16:24:39 GMT References: <22cqb4$57b@dorsai.dorsai.org> Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T Lines: 21 In article <22cqb4$57b@dorsai.dorsai.org> dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) writes: > (lines omitted) > Latin Danish >Filipendula ulmaria almmjodurt >Filipendula hexapetalia knoldmjodort > >If anyone has any idea of what the common names of these plants are and how >they might be used, I would highly appreciate your assistance. >(lines omitted) Sorry, don't have my books with me at work. I can offer that there is a very tall (>6') Filipendula native to the U.S., commonly called "Glory of the Prairie". Very striking and architectural, with candy cotton type pink flowers (right now blooming in my garden). It can take wet feet. Leaves remind me of Acanthus (bears breaches). I have seen another, shorter (3') Filipendula with beautiful varietgated leaves, but I have not been able to locate any to purchase. Has anyone run across it? Dave Daulton From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!boulder!ucsu!rintintin.Colorado.EDU!templin Sat Jul 24 12:30:28 EDT 1993 Article: 20014 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!boulder!ucsu!rintintin.Colorado.EDU!templin From: templin@rintintin.Colorado.EDU (Templin Geri-Ellen) Subject: shallot growing questions Message-ID: <1993Jul19.160225.14356@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> Sender: news@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: rintintin.colorado.edu Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder References: <226cam$pie@GRAPEVINE.LCS.MIT.EDU> <1993Jul19.125518.8509@bmerh85.bnr.ca> Distribution: na Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 16:02:25 GMT Lines: 8 Anyone have any luck growing shallots? Do I grow them from sets? Are they hard? Is is easy to find sources to buy them from? I live in Colorado - zone 4(?), dry, sunny, gets well below freezing in the winter. geri (one of the clematis died :(, still haven't figured out what it is) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!ub!acsu.buffalo.edu!ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu!camron Sat Jul 24 12:30:28 EDT 1993 Article: 20015 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!ub!acsu.buffalo.edu!ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu!camron From: camron@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (Ronald Meis) Subject: Wisteria/clematis propagation Message-ID: News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Sender: nntp@acsu.buffalo.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: ubvmsd.cc.buffalo.edu Organization: University at Buffalo Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 17:43:00 GMT Lines: 17 Hope this works, this is try #4. I have two 3 yr old wisteria plants. One seems not to grow although it fully foliates each season, the other has grown very well with the production of numerous runners which I am training to a lattice. The "non-grower" looks like a bush while the "grower" looks more like what I would have expected from a woody vine. What could be potential causes of this diversity in growth pattern? I have no reason to expect the soil conditions to be too different. Soil is heavy clay, both get full sun and identical watering. Both should be the same variety. What would be the best way to propagate the growing wisteria? I would think that the runners would prove very useful for such purposes. I would prefer a non-rootstock-dependent method. I would also be interested in suggestions for clematis vine propagation methods, also non-rootstock- dependent. Thanks in advance. RON From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!charnel!rat!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv Sat Jul 24 12:30:29 EDT 1993 Article: 20016 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!charnel!rat!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!steele!ohsu.edu!nuferv From: nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA) Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Message-ID: Sender: news@ohsu.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: 137.53.56.80 Organization: Oregon Health Sciences University References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 17:54:19 GMT Lines: 15 OK, I just have to know more about these legendary tomatoes! I am a new homeowner, i.e., no garden yet, but dreams of next year. Not much gardening experience, either. I remember my mom's organically grown tomatoes that I could eat out of hand (YUM!), tho' I don't think they were brandywines. But, alas, I have moved from the hot and sundrenched south (Virginia) to the cool, wet Pacific northwest (Oregon). (For the past few years we had California weather, but things are back to normal now.) Soooo, should I forget about trying to grow brandywines next year? From the sounds of it they are a sun loving obstinate plant, but please let me know for sure. If they are, does anyone have any suggestions for particularly tasty cool, wet loving tomatoes. I would prefer acidic so I can can without adding citric or other acids. -Marsie Nufer (nuferv@ohsu.edu) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!ucs.orst.edu!hoyerr Sat Jul 24 12:30:29 EDT 1993 Article: 20017 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!ucs.orst.edu!hoyerr From: hoyerr@ucs.orst.edu (Richard Hoyer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: A different kind of hollyhock Date: 19 Jul 1993 17:55:20 GMT Organization: University Computing Services - OSU Lines: 19 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22en68$4ns@gaia.ucs.orst.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ucs.orst.edu I was wondering if there is anybody out there that can identify an odd plant I found in a friend's garden. I guess you could call it a hollyhock, since it has a very similar growth pattern. In any case it is a mallow (Malvaceae). 1) It is bigger than a hollyhock, but still upright. 2) Has a woody base that gets to be about 1 1/2 inches in diameter 3) Is perrenial, but doesn't die back to the ground (I live in the Willamette Valley of western Oregon) 4) Has large, soft-fuzzy, variegated leaves (about 10 inches in diameter) 5) Has inconspicuous, purplish flowers (single, not double) 6) Grows very healthy and is not bothered by rust. I have collected some seed and another friend has managed to keep it going. Thanks for any suggestions you might have. Rich Hoyer Corvallis, OR hoyerr@ucs.orst.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!utnut!utgpu!bae Sat Jul 24 12:30:30 EDT 1993 Article: 20018 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: Neglected shrubs: save or replace? Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <23071612491567@vms2.macc.wisc.edu> Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 17:57:56 GMT Lines: 51 In article <23071612491567@vms2.macc.wisc.edu> DBBARBER@macc.wisc.edu (Deborah B. Barber) writes: >When woody shrubs have been neglected, that is, not pruned for years, >can they be helped with severe pruning? Or should they be removed and replaced? >These are about 6' high, with leaves only at the outer tips of branches. > >I'd appreciate hearing from folks with experience in saving or scrapping >shrubs. Or from folks with pruning references to share. I recommend the book "Pruning Simplified" by Lewis Hill. He says to take out 1/3 of the old growth each year for 3 years and you've got a renovated border you can then keep in shape by regular pruning. I helped my neighbour with her overgrown shrub border (lilacs, weigelas, forsythias and honeysuckle). I cut out about a third of the large trunks on each shrub in late winter. I also removed all the dead wood I could identify, thinned out the weak stems and headed back the excessively long branches. The following summer (last year), the shrubs grew vigourously. This past winter I wanted her to take out more of the big trunks and thin out the new growth, but she didn't get around to it. Anyhow, everything but the lilacs bloomed spectacularly this season (the lilacs merely bloomed very well). My yard starts to the south of her border, so I probably got an even better show than she did! >Would a lot depend on the type of shrub? If I tried to identify them by taking >a sample to a nursery, wouldn't they just encourage me to buy new ones? Conifers are different from deciduous shrubs. I think most deciduous shrubs that can survive years of neglect can survive "renovation pruning". These plants can be amazingly tough. One neighbour had a huge flowering quince chopped to the ground when she needed some work done behind it, and in 2 years it was blooming and bushier than ever. Since you don't like the state the shrubs are in now, you might as well try renovating them. If it works, you will have nice thick healthy shrubs, and if it doesn't, well you were considering replacing them anyway... >Also, if pruning is advised, should it wait until fall? Spring? You can take out dead wood now. I think it's best to do major hacking when the shrubs are dormant (winter or very early spring). If you prune live wood now, you will get a lot of lush growth that may not have time to harden off properly before winter. >Thanks in advance. Go for it. You'll probably be pleased with the results. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:30:31 EDT 1993 Article: 20019 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Revised bulb catalog list Message-ID: <1993Jul19.125838.14911@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 19 Jul 93 12:58:38 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 399 BULB CATALOGS FOR NORTH AMERICAN GROWERS revision of 19 July, 1993 "One makes a mental note, or even a written note, and then the season changes and one forgets what one meant at the time. One has written 'Plant something yellow near the yellow tulips' or "Plant something tall behind the lupins," and then autumn comes and plants have died down, and one scratches one's head trying to remember what on earth one meant by that." --- Vita Sackville-West BULBS: Included in this list are purveyors of bulbs, corms and tubers, excluding Dahlia and Iris specialists. Among the most immediately rewarding, these "sure-fire flowers" are ordered in late summer or early fall for spring bloom, in early spring for summer and fall bloom. There are often significant discounts for ordering by mid-August for fall delivery. If you have someone with an absolutely brown thumb, give them a bulb of _Colchicum autumnale_, a fall-flowering species that will bloom sitting on a bookshelf, producing a number of lavender-pink trumpet flowers from a naked bulb. Planted outdoors after bloom, it will produce flowers autumn after autumn. Another welcome gift from a gardener to almost any poor soul in the [in]temperate zone winter is a pot of bulbs for forcing. Most catalogs list cultivars especially suitable for forcing. ABBREVIATIONS: Cat -- catalog cv -- cultivar (=variety) ? -- item of which I am unsure. "refundable" means catalog price is at least partially credited to first order (may be a minimum order for such credit) CONSERVATION NOTE Dutch bulb growers/importers have agreed to label all *wild-collected* bulbs, corms and tubers by 1993 (most will do it this year). US growers have NOT agreed to do this, and in 1991 imported more than a million bulbs and corms (mostly snowdrops and cyclamens) stripped from their native habitat in Turkey. US growers also sell wild-collected native plants (esp. pink ladyslipper orchid, _Cypripedium acaule_, and many native ferns). In general, if there is a cultivar name ('President Kennedy' tulip or 'Blue Pearl' hyacinth), you can assume these are grown in cultivation. Those who enjoy growing "unimproved" species have to trust the source if they care about population destruction. Some unscrupulous "growers" strip wild populations, park them in beds over the winter and then sell these "cultivated" plants in the spring. CAVEAT EMPTOR. _Herbertia_ is an international bulb journal on bulb identification and culture. PO Bos 5355 Pasadena, CA 91107- 0355 Should you decide to plant several hundred bulbs, you may wish to invest in a long-handled bulb planter (also useful for perennials), or an auger bit for an electric drill. One such auger is the Daffodrill, PO Box 248, Salt Point, NY 127578 Bob Batson and Jim Bishop contributed most of the addresses and remarks; others from Kay Klier. Compilers of this list make no warranties about the firms listed herein. ***** Please send all new addresses, changes, ***** ****** remarks and corrections to Kay Klier ***** ***** (in%"klier@iscsvax.uni.edu") ***** ---------------------- CANADIAN FIRMS CA Cruickshank,Inc 1015 Mount Pleasant Road Toronto, Ontario Canada M4P 2M1 Cat $2 One of the largest lists in N Am. Strongest in tulips, scilla, iris, crocus, hyacinth, narcissus; fall catalog features much stuff from Van Tubergen of Holland (nice stuff!) Gardenimport,Inc PO Box 760 Thornhill, Ontario, Canada L3T 4A5 Cat $4 English perennials, lilacs, bulbs, seeds; N. Am. agents of Suttons Seeds of Great Britain; some European cvs WH Perron 515 Labelle Boulevard Chomeday laval Quebec H7V 2T3 Canada Cat $? US FIRMS Bakker of Holland US Reservation Center Louisiana, MO 63353-0050 Cat $0? Dutch bulbs The Banana Tree 715 Northampton St Easton, PA 18042 Cat $3 tropical bulbs and seeds B & D Lilies 330 P Street Port Townsend, WA 98368 Cat $? Lily specialist? BioQuest International PO Box 5752 Santa Barbara, CA 93108. (805) 969-4072 (Dr. Richard Doutt); Cat $2 South African bulbs especially. bulbs native to South Africa Bluebell Lilies 1432 Manor Lane Blue Bell, PA 19422 Cat $? Lily specialist Bonnie Brae Gardens 1105 SE Christensen Road Corbett, OR 97019 Cat $0 daffodil specialist Breck's 6523 N Galena Rd Peoria, IL 61632 Cat $0 basic range of species W. Atlee Burpee & Co. 300 Park Ave Warminster, PA 18974 Cat $0 good general catalog for beginners; one of the oldest and best known US seed companies Caladium World PO Drawer 629 Sebring, FL 33871 Cat $0 caladium specialist Cascade Daffodils 1790 Richard Circle St Paul, MN 55118 Cat $1 daffodil specialist Daffodil Mart The Heaths Rt 3, Box 794 Gloucester, VA 23061 Cat $1; Van Tubergen of Holland wholesale cat $5 Hundreds of daffodil cvs; minimum order from Van Tubergen catalog is 100 bullbs, but VT is said to have one of the broadest lists of Dutch grown bulbs. Peter De Jager Bulb Co. PO Box 2010 South Hamilton, MA 01982 Cat $? Dutch Gardens,Inc PO Box 200 Adelphia, NJ 07710 908 780-2713; fax 908 708-7720 Cat $0 Good selection of basic Holland bulbs; good prices, esp in quantity (group order program esp.). Excellent color catalog with pictures of all cvs. Fairyland Begonia and Lily Garden 1100 Griffith Road McKinleyville, CA 95521 Cat $0.50, refundable hybrid oriental and asiatic lilies Gaybird Nurseries PO Box 42 Wawanesa, Manitoba Canada R0K 2GO Cat $? Lily specialist Gladside Gardens 61 Main St Northfield, MA 01360. List $1 gladiolas, dahlias, cannas, unusual bulbs Holland Bulb Farms PO Box 127 Westwood, NJ 07676 Cat $0 Dutch bulb importer Kelly's Plant World 10266 E Princeton Sanger, CA 93657. Price list $1, refundable cannas and other summer bulbs Kent Lilies 2009 Edgewood Rd NE Grand Rapids, MI 49505 Cat $? lily specialist Kester's Wild Game Food Nurseries PO Box 516 Omro, WI 54963 Cat $2 Specialist in species favored for food and cover by game animals Louisiana Nursery Route 7, Box 43 Opelousas, LA 70570 Cat $3 (daylilies, LA irises); $5 (magnolias, trees, shrubs, vines); $3 (crinums & bulbs); refundable McClure & Zimmerman 108 W Winnebago PO Box 368 Friesland, WI 53935 Cat $0 Excellent list of bulbs, esp. species and uncommon cultivars; also uncommon species. McFayden Seed Co. 30 9th St, Box 1800 Brandon, MB Canada R7A 6N4 Cat $? Messelaar Bulb Co. PO Box 269 Ipswich, MA 01938 Cat $0 good cvs of commonly available species Michigan Bulb Co. 1950 Waldorf NW; Grand Rapids, MI 49550 Cat $0 Quoth a rec.gardener: "Everybody buys from here ONCE". Cheap prices, cheap plants. Caveat emptor. Mileager's Gardens 4838 Douglas Avenue Racine, WI 53402-2498 800 669-9956 Cat $? Grant Mitsch Novelty Daffodils PO Box 218 Hubbard, OR 97032 Cat $3 refundable daffodil specialist/breeder; many cvs available here only Oakwood Daffodils 2330 W Bertrand Rd Niles, MI 49120 Cat $? Pinetree Garden Seeds RR 1, Box 397 New Gloucester, ME 04260 Cat $0 Good seeds (many op) in small packets at very reasonable prices; small selection of bulbs (many row-run or smallish); pretty good book and tool selection. Pleasant Valley Glads PO Box 494 Agawam, MA 01001 Cat $0 gladiolus, dahlia specialist Quality Dutch Bulbs PO Box 225 Hillsdale, NJ 07642 Cat $? Rex Bulb Farms PO Box 774 2568 Washington St Port Townsend, WA 98368 Cat $1 200+ cv hybrid and species lilies Royal Gardens Box 588 Farmingdale, NJ 07727 Cat $0 Nicely illustrated catalog of common species John Scheepers,Inc PO Box 700 Bantam, CT 06750 203 567-0838 Cat $0 Nice range of bulbs; probably of more interest to specialists. Well-established firm with exhibition size bulbs Smith and Hawken Bulb Book 25 Corte Madera Mill Valley, CA 94941 415 383-2000 Cat $0 Ask for "Wilma Kay" for advice. No seeds, but bulbs, good tools, garden furbelows. Mostly expensive stuff for trendy gardeners, but they do have sturdy English tools. Strahm's Lilies PO Box 226 Harbor, OR 97415 Cat $0.50 Oriental lily specialist Trinidad Bay Bulb Co. (1992): PO Box 974 Trinidad, CA 95570 Cat $? Lily specialist TyTy Plantation Box 159 TyTy, GA 31795 Cat $0 Cannas, crinums and other bulbs esp. for S US gardens Van Bourgondien & Sons Inc PO Box A245 Farmingdale Rd Babylon, NY 11702 Cat $0 Mixed reports on quality Mary Mattison Van Schalk Box 181 Cavendish, VT 05142 Cat $1 established importer of Dutch bulbs Van Tubergen of Holland See CA Cruickshank and Daffodil Mart for N Am distributors. Veldheer Tulip Gardens 12755 Quincy St Holland, MI 49424 Cat $? Mary Walker Bulb Co. Box 256 Omega, GA 31775 Cat $? specialist in southern US adapted bulbs Wayside Gardens Co. 1 Garden Lane Hodges, SC 29695 Cat $0 Pricy, but interesting and well illustrated color catalogs. White Flower Farm Rt 63 Litchfield, CT 06759-0050 800 888-7756 Cat $0 Informative catalogs you may wish to keep for reference. Carries several strains of long-lived tulips (their "perennial tulips") Kay Klier in%"klier@iscsvax.uni.edu" From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae Sat Jul 24 12:30:31 EDT 1993 Article: 20020 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.arts.bonsai Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: Peach pit planting Message-ID: Keywords: peaches, bonsai Organization: UTCC Public Access References: Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 18:13:42 GMT Lines: 32 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:20020 rec.arts.bonsai:911 In article ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) writes: >To be honest they're not peaches, but nectarines, sort of like shaved >peaches. I bought 1 kg of them, and they're awfully expensive around >here. I bet this is a FAQ, but how do I go about planting the pits? Botanically, nectarines are peaches (Prunus persica). The difference is just in one gene. I can't remember now if the fuzzless trait is dominant or recessive. You may get both peach and nectarine trees from your nectarine pits. They need to believe that winter has come and gone. Some plants with stony pits also need some microbial action to help open the pit. I often have peach pits sprouting in my compost pile, so if you just plant your pits in a pot of rich soil and bury the pot in your garden somewhere, you will probably have some of the pits sprout early next summer. When they emerge, they immediately make an 20-30 cm. stem with quite a few leaves on it. >I realise that I probably won't get any nectarines, or if I do they >won't be very tasty, but I'd like to have some flowers. If I succeed >I'd like to train it as a bonsai. Oh yes, I tried cracking one pit >with a nutcracker, but the seed broke. Would filing be better? It >worked for the olives. How long germination time can I expect? Actually peaches and nectarines often produce acceptable quality fruit when planted from seed - more reliably than apples do, for example. Peaches do none-too-badly as tub plants. In areas too cold for peaches to overwinter outdoors, people sometimes grow them in tubs and move the tubs into a protected area like a garage for winter. I don't know how they would do as bonsai. They have fairly long leaves. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:30:32 EDT 1993 Article: 20021 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Corny questions Message-ID: <1993Jul19.130748.14913@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 19 Jul 93 13:07:48 -0600 References: <223ggjINNb3j@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> <22ed7nINN3o0@rave.larc.nasa.gov> Distribution: na Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 11 In article <22ed7nINN3o0@rave.larc.nasa.gov>, judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov writes: > I heard a farmer in the Southeast US, suffering from drought rather than > flood, say that his corn hadn't grown properly because "the heat killed > the pollen." Is this possible? Yep. Actually, the usual cause is that the pollen mother cells (how's that for a name?) didn't develop properly in the heat. Corn growers pray that it won't turn ungodly hot about a week or ten days before tasselling. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!walter!porthos!bellcore.com!mma Sat Jul 24 12:30:33 EDT 1993 Article: 20022 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!walter!porthos!bellcore.com!mma From: mma@bellcore.com () Subject: couple of gardening questions.. Reply-To: mma@bellcore.com () Organization: Bellcore, Morristown NJ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 93 17:58:37 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul19.175837.7141@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> Originator: mma@pegasus Sender: netnews@porthos.cc.bellcore.com (USENET System Software) Lines: 38 I am somewhat of a novice at gardening (can't seem to resist plant sales!). - I have a couple of dahlia that I planted this spring. They are doing beautifully -- do I have to dug them up for storage in the fall or just leave them be? - I have two gardenia which are also doing nicely on my deck. I don't have a whitefly problem yet with them but when I do, what can I use on them? Something organic is preferred (most of the commercial insecticide state not to use on gardenias). - I have some snapdragons that are beginning to seed -- how/when do I gather them and store them for next year? - same question with respect to zinnia. - I have some roses which I transplanted last fall. I pruned them back considerably (hoping to lessen the shock). Only one is blooming this summer..The others are not (their stems are getting wider and there is plenty of leaves, no bugs/pests)..What can I do? - african violets - I have some african violets which are getting too big. what is the best way to keep them manageable? I have tried prune back the lower leaves (but then the stem gets longer and the plant doesn't look right). Thanks in advance. Mary -- Mary M. Lau Bellcore MRE 2J-297 Email: mma@aries.bellcore.com 445 South st. Tel: (201) 829-4632 Morristown, NJ 07960 Fax: (201) 829-5976 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!udel!rochester!cornell!batcomputer!news.graphics.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet Sat Jul 24 12:30:33 EDT 1993 Article: 20023 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!udel!rochester!cornell!batcomputer!news.graphics.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!usenet From: Laura Uerling Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Drought damaged annuals Date: 19 Jul 1993 17:18:32 GMT Organization: Cornell University Lines: 20 Sender: lju1@cornell.edu (Verified) Distribution: world Message-ID: <22el18INN2v2@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: 132.236.42.171 X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d7 X-XXDate: Mon, 19 Jul 93 18:20:54 GMT I'm not trying to rub it in to you very soggy midwesterners, but we've had unusually hot and dry weather here in upstate New York that finally seems to have ended. However, I'm left with some pretty unhappy annuals as a result. I have some alyssum that was doing great, but I must have gone too long without watering because now the flowers stems are dry and brown. Here's my question: the leaves under the flower stems still look pretty green and healthy--would it help them bloom again if I were to cut off the dry flower stems? How far back should I cut them? I also have some California poppies that were just spectacular for several weeks, but now have stopped blooming and have some brown foliage. Is there any way to get them blooming again, or am I out of luck until next year? It would be pretty ironic if I'd let *California* flowers get too dry here in usually wet Ithaca. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Laura Uerling From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!cunyvm!rohvm1!rstj3m Sat Jul 24 12:30:34 EDT 1993 Article: 20024 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!cunyvm!rohvm1!rstj3m Organization: Rohm and Haas Company Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 12:05:42 EDT From: JE McLaughlin Message-ID: <93200.120542RSTJ3M@rohvm1.rohmhaas.com> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Quince - What the heck? Lines: 4 I have a flowering quince bush in my garden that has set almost 100 fruit this year, for the first time in history. What can one do with them, if anything? Are they edible? How does one know when they are ripe? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!linac!sunova!NewsWatcher!user Sat Jul 24 12:30:34 EDT 1993 Article: 20025 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!linac!sunova!NewsWatcher!user From: Wes_Smith@ssc.gov (Wes Smith) Subject: Re: Dogwood Tree Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@sunova.ssc.gov (News Admin) Nntp-Posting-Host: 143.202.70.13 Organization: none References: <1993Jul16.164907.14792@iti.org> Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 19:27:38 GMT Lines: 32 In article <1993Jul16.164907.14792@iti.org>, klb@iti.org (Karen L. Boynton) wrote: > > Okay folks, I've followed the thread regarding the Dogwood > doing badly after transplanting. We've tried, unsuccessfully, > with 3 brand new Dogwoods and they've ended up dying, ie. > brown leaves and the whole works. They are planted in > full sun-light. Our soil is clay, which isn't the best, > but we did prepare the soil correctly with top soil, soil > conditioner and light bark. We just can't seem to get them to > survive. It looks like we'll have to give up on trying to get a > Dogwood to grow... > > We did plant a Profusion Crabapple at the same time and it's doing > just great. > > So my question is, what type of tree will grow best in > full sun, clay soil and is of the ornamental type of tree? > > Please E-mail your responses to klb@iti.org. > Thanks. > > Karen. Dogwoods simply burn up in the full summer sun. They prefer "filtered shade" like you find under larger trees. Also, if your soil is the least bit alkaline a dogwood won't ever make it. Try a Redbud (red or white colors available), or another Crabapple. If you live far enough south, Crepe Myrtle will take almost any abuse you give them and thank you for it with blooms almost all summer long. Wes Smith From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!trivia.eng.gtefsd.com!theodore Sat Jul 24 12:30:35 EDT 1993 Article: 20026 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!trivia.eng.gtefsd.com!theodore From: theodore@trivia.eng.gtefsd.com (Theodore B. Ruegsegger) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Date: 19 Jul 1993 19:42:55 GMT Organization: GTE Federal Systems Lines: 22 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22etfv$6i6@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> Reply-To: theodore@europa.eng.gtefsd.com NNTP-Posting-Host: trivia.eng.gtefsd.com In article <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com>, kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) writes: |> |> My tomatoes are finally recovering from the weirdo extremely hot |> weather of a couple of weeks ago, and starting to set fruit. |> Except the Brandywine plant. I planted this because Organic Gardening Brandywine grows a large, strong vine to carry the heavy fruit, so it waits longer than other tomatoes before flowering and fruiting. Mine are just starting now, while other varieties are loaded (I'm growing eleven kinds this year, so I can claim a good sample for comparison). Be patient. |> mag said Brandywine was the "most flavorful" tomato. Does anyone have |> any experience/words of wisdom about Brandywines? I notice that the I'll add my voice to the praises of Brandywine I see accumulating in response to your question. Fabulous flavor, though limited yield. --- Theodore B. Ruegsegger GTE Government Systems | Washington, D.C., a city of Southern theodore@europa.eng.gtefsd.com | efficiency and Northern charm. theodore%betster@aquin.ori-cal.com | -- John F. Kennedy From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:30:36 EDT 1993 Article: 20027 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Pole Beans Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <1993Jul18.071226.4400@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> <22de79INNb0u@network.ucsd.edu> Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 16:46:48 GMT Lines: 31 In article <22de79INNb0u@network.ucsd.edu> rpierce@chem.ucsd.edu (Roxanne Rohmann) writes: >I have tried three different times already this summer to grow >"Kentucky Blue" pole beans. Each time I've tried about 15 seeds. >Out of all of them, I've had three sprout. I've tried soaking them >for an hour, two hours, and four hours. I've drowned them (tried to >keep the seeds moist), left them unwatered, put them in full sun, >put them in peat pots, put them directly in the garden, and have >reached a fairly high level of frustration. > >I live in San Diego, somewhat near the coast (cool damp nights >and early mornings, sunny and 78-82 degrees during the day). >Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong, or what I need to try? Are you sure they're not sprouting? I frequently have trouble with pillbugs eating certain types of beans down to nubs before they're even noticeable. I also have trouble with earwigs. Since I'm home during the day I get to check the garden frequently, and was able to catch these bugs in the act because I saw some beans starting to sprout one afternoon (just breaking through) and the next day they were gone. What I did to combat them was to cover them (**each one**) with a yogurt cup as they broke soil. Beans grow fairly quickly for me so I only had to cover them --oh only cover at night -- for about a week. If you don't have a bug problem, I'm not sure what else your problem could be. Hope you have better luck in future. --Kim Fisher -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!nigel.msen.com!yale.edu!yale!gumby!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!news.UVic.CA!camins.camosun.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud016 Sat Jul 24 12:30:36 EDT 1993 Article: 20028 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!nigel.msen.com!yale.edu!yale!gumby!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!news.UVic.CA!camins.camosun.bc.ca!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ud016 Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Flower eating deer. Message-ID: <1993Jul17.075039.333@camins.camosun.bc.ca> From: ud016@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Hal Stephen Cartwright) Date: 17 Jul 93 07:50:39 PDT Nntp-Posting-Host: freenet.victoria.bc.ca Lines: 10 My wife has asked me to post this question. Her flower garden is visited almost nightly by one or more deer, who very delicately nip off the blossoms Without putting up a wire fence, is there any other deterant that she may use? Judy Cartwright thanks you very much. -- Capt Hally ud016@freenet.victoria.bc.ca Hal Cartwright Victoria B.C. Canada ****************************************************************** From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:30:37 EDT 1993 Article: 20029 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: CITRUS IN DC Message-ID: <1993Jul19.141455.20612@walter.cray.com> Lines: 16 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Date: 19 Jul 93 14:14:54 CDT Several months ago I posted about my Meyer Lemon and my Satsuma mandarin. They are now in my half sunshine backyard in tubs. Barring disaster (huge hail, fire, theft, deer etc.) It looks like I am going to have lemons soon from a february bloom. (Well one lemon but the tree was pretty small and next year I'll have plenty) But the little mandarins which also set in February are only about 7/8" to 1" in diameter; I am near the middle of my heat season; are these going to make it before cold weather in Fall forces me to take the tree inside. I can probably leave it out until late November in my climate but it won't get much heat after mid October. It is getting plenty of heat now!! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!tomm Sat Jul 24 12:30:37 EDT 1993 Article: 20030 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!tomm From: tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Sender: news@cupnews0.cup.hp.com (News Admin) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 20:19:28 GMT References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: hpindadb.cup.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0.7] Lines: 43 Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA (nuferv@ohsu.edu) wrote: : OK, I just have to know more about these legendary tomatoes! I am a new : homeowner, i.e., no garden yet, but dreams of next year. Not much gardening : experience, either. I remember my mom's organically grown tomatoes that I : could eat out of hand (YUM!), tho' I don't think they were brandywines. : But, alas, I have moved from the hot and sundrenched south (Virginia) to the : cool, wet Pacific northwest (Oregon). (For the past few years we had : California weather, but things are back to normal now.) They are very flavorful, very sweet, large, pinkish red heirlooms. They are prone to cracking, as mentioned before, but it isn't all that bad. They are quite indeterminate, and I found that staking them up does better than encasing them in a cage. Actually, I don't cage any tomatoes now - I grew two of several types last year, and put one of each type in a cage, while staking the other up with bamboo poles. Stakes won, hands down. No comparison. : Soooo, should I forget about trying to grow brandywines next year? From the : sounds of it they are a sun loving obstinate plant, but please let me know : for sure. If they are, does anyone have any suggestions for particularly : tasty cool, wet loving tomatoes. I would prefer acidic so I can can : without adding citric or other acids. Don't give up without a try, but you may be right in thinking that the weather is a factor. Also, more importantly, they are not particularly acidic, which may be part of the reason that they don't can all that well, IMHO. My favorite right now is the 'Egyptian', which you can get through the Seed Saver's Exchange. I'll have it listed in next year's catalog, as will three or four other folks who grow it for seed every few years. SSE Membership is only 20 bucks, tax deductible, and they could always use the money. Someone just posted their address, but I could rummage around and find it here somewhere, if I have to... Tom McNeal ------------------------------------------------------------------- tomm@hpindada.cup.hp.com Tom McNeal at Hewlett-Packard's Information Networks Division 19410 Homestead Rd., M.S. 43UE, Cupertino, CA 95014 (408)447-2300 ------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!news Sat Jul 24 12:30:38 EDT 1993 Article: 20031 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!news From: nguyena@vnet.ibm.com (Tony Nguyen) Subject: How can I get my lawn a bit greener? Sender: news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 20:06:14 GMT News-Software: IBM OS/2 PM RN (NR/2) v0.17e by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers Lines: 8 Reply-To: nguyena@vnet.ibm.com (Tony Nguyen) Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM. Nntp-Posting-Host: nguyena.houston.ibm.com Organization: IBM T.J. Watson Research I would like to know how can I get a greener lawn. I already fertilize it about 2months ago with Scotts' Starter (new sod). Been watering very much but would like to get a healthier lawn. I live in Houston,TX...very hot. Any suggestion is appreciated. ************************************************************* * Anthony Nguyen * Houston, TX * ************************************************************* From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!tomm Sat Jul 24 12:30:39 EDT 1993 Article: 20032 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!tomm From: tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Sender: news@cupnews0.cup.hp.com (News Admin) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 20:28:41 GMT References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: hpindadb.cup.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0.7] Lines: 25 Well, it's anybody's guess whether this posting will hit the BB before my previous posting or not. If it does, this will be a little out of context. > Kent Whealy > Seed Savers Exchange > RR3, Box 239 > Decorah, IowA 52101 > (319) 382-5990 > > This is a very interesting organization. > They also sell a good book about saving seeds (surprise) from various vegies. It is an excellent book, I think. It will be listed in the literature you get from them. Buy it. Tom McNeal ------------------------------------------------------------------- tomm@hpindada.cup.hp.com Tom McNeal at Hewlett-Packard's Information Networks Division 19410 Homestead Rd., M.S. 43UE, Cupertino, CA 95014 (408)447-2300 ------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!tomm Sat Jul 24 12:30:39 EDT 1993 Article: 20033 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!tomm From: tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Sender: news@cupnews0.cup.hp.com (News Admin) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 20:39:33 GMT References: <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com> <2275s3$kcm@meaddata.meaddata.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: hpindadb.cup.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0.7] Lines: 14 Barb Bruns (barb@meaddata.com) wrote: : By the way, I find it interesting that of the 7 canning experts who posted : replies, 5 were men, and 2 women. Is this a non-sexist group, or what?! Well, Kay is the expert, I think. I wouldn't claim to be that. And my wife taught me how to can tomatoes. Besides, it was her canner, anyway. :-) ------------------------------------------------------------------- tomm@hpindada.cup.hp.com Tom McNeal at Hewlett-Packard's Information Networks Division 19410 Homestead Rd., M.S. 43UE, Cupertino, CA 95014 (408)447-2300 ------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!chnews!ornews.intel.com!ichips!frx702!dcovell Sat Jul 24 12:30:40 EDT 1993 Article: 20034 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!asuvax!chnews!ornews.intel.com!ichips!frx702!dcovell From: dcovell@frx702.intel.com (David Covell - EPG) Subject: Re: Flower eating deer. Message-ID: <1993Jul19.202347.29853@ichips.intel.com> Sender: news@ichips.intel.com (News Account) Organization: Intel Corporation References: <1993Jul17.075039.333@camins.camosun.bc.ca> Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 20:23:47 GMT Lines: 19 In article <1993Jul17.075039.333@camins.camosun.bc.ca> ud016@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Hal Stephen Cartwright) writes: > >My wife has asked me to post this question. Her flower garden is visited >almost nightly by one or more deer, who very delicately nip off the blossoms >Without putting up a wire fence, is there any other deterant that she may use? >Judy Cartwright thanks you very much. >-- I had the same problem with deer eating my tomato leaves. The solution in my case was to buy a roll of the black plastic netting designed to keep birds out of fruit trees. The mesh is light enough that its weight doesn't injure the plants, and the holes are small enough to prevent deer from nibbling. The single drawback is that you need to roll it back when you weed, and if you don't do it often enough you may find leaves that have grown through the mesh. In my case it was well worth it, and it seemed that the stress of being eaten down to near nubs made my tomatoes go into overdrive once the deer problem was solved. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:30:41 EDT 1993 Article: 20035 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flower eating deer. Message-ID: <1993Jul19.161121.14920@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 19 Jul 93 16:11:21 -0600 References: <1993Jul17.075039.333@camins.camosun.bc.ca> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 20 In article <1993Jul17.075039.333@camins.camosun.bc.ca>, ud016@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Hal Stephen Cartwright) writes: > > My wife has asked me to post this question. Her flower garden is visited > almost nightly by one or more deer, who very delicately nip off the blossoms > Without putting up a wire fence, is there any other deterant that she may use? > Judy Cartwright thanks you very much. I see a couple of deer repellants listed in the Ben Meadows (forestry type stuff) catalog: one called Deer Away that was designed for use on trees, not supposed to be used on edibles, and one called Magic Circle Deer Repellant that "will not harm plants past the seedling stage" "one gallon will protect about two acres for up to one month". Don't know anything more about these, but here's the phone/fax numbers for Meadows: 1-800-241-6401 or 1-800-628-2068 (fax) There's also a rotten-egg based repellant I've heard good things about, but I don't know the name. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!indetech!cirrus!tomc Sat Jul 24 12:30:42 EDT 1993 Article: 20036 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!indetech!cirrus!tomc From: tomc@cirrus.com (Tom Crawford) Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Message-ID: <1993Jul19.200817.18588@cirrus.com> Sender: news@cirrus.com Organization: Cirrus Logic Inc. References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 20:08:17 GMT Lines: 5 I started Brandywine from seed this year. Took me three tries to get any to come up at all. They have leaves like peppers. So far I don't have any fruit set. Sure hope something good happens. tomc@cirrus.COM From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!csn!utopia!kat Sat Jul 24 12:30:42 EDT 1993 Article: 20037 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!csn!utopia!kat From: kat@netwise.com (Kathleen Nosbisch) Subject: Tomatoes Turning Yellow Message-ID: <1993Jul19.154924.26970@netwise.com> Organization: Netwise Inc. Boulder, CO Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 15:49:24 GMT Lines: 22 I transplanted four tomato plants (all different varieties) into my garden in mid-May. Until the last week or so, they've been doing fine. But now, one of the plants that has tiny tomatos on it has leaves that are turning a bright yellow all over. It is real spindly-looking - doesn't have the healthy green foilage all over it like my other ones do. All my other ones (planted in close proximity) are growing by leaps and bounds, but this one seems to have quit growing as well. Does any one have any idea what could be causing this, and what I can do (organically) to take care of this plant so it can produce healthy tomatoes, before it's too late? Thanks in advance for any suggestions/help you can provide! kat -- |-----------------------------------------------------------------------| | Kathleen Nosbisch Netwise, Inc. | | kat@netwise.com 2477 55th Street | | Boulder, Colorado 80301 | From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!spcvxb!hsh!paul Sat Jul 24 12:30:43 EDT 1993 Article: 20038 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!spcvxb!hsh!paul Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Fly Maggots & Compost Message-ID: <1993Jul19.165938.2151@hsh.com> From: paul@hsh.com (Paul Havemann) Date: 19 Jul 93 16:59:38 EDT References: Organization: HSH Associates Lines: 20 nuferv@ohsu.edu (Virginia (aka Marsie) Nufer, Portland, Oregon, USA) writes: > For those of you who appear to use a lot of kitchen scraps (non-meat) you > might look into vermiculture instead of composting. I saw this at a > composting workshop in a community garden. Basically what you need is a > proper box and a bunch of redworms (this is specific, not the worms from > your yard). As a great byproduct you get wormcastings to add to your > yard and garden. The lecturer at the workshop dumped in orange rinds, a > banana peel, and coffee+filter. I plan to try this next year. Reference: > _Worms Eat My Garbage_ by Mary Appelhoff, Flower Press, 1982. A recent _Smithsonian_ magazine (June? May?) took a somewhat humorous look at vermicasting; the author had some mixed successes even after consulting this book. The part about the "worm crawl" (mass escape!) was most amusing... ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ Paul Havemann (paul@hsh.com) Quarantined with the Attitude Virus until further notice. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!apple.com!ntg!dplatt Sat Jul 24 12:30:44 EDT 1993 Article: 20039 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!apple.com!ntg!dplatt From: dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt) Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Message-ID: <1993Jul19.212558.20834@ntg.com> Organization: New Technologies Group, Inc. Palo Alto CA References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 21:25:58 GMT Lines: 40 >Soooo, should I forget about trying to grow brandywines next year? From the >sounds of it they are a sun loving obstinate plant, but please let me know >for sure. I've grown them here in the SF Bay area a couple of times. The summer weather here is warm but not stunningly hot. They did OK - they were not very heavy crop-bearers, but the fruits that they did bear were quite tasty. > If they are, does anyone have any suggestions for particularly >tasty cool, wet loving tomatoes. I would prefer acidic so I can can >without adding citric or other acids. My favorite all-around-eating salad-type tomato is the open-pollenated variety Rutgers. It produces a good crop of smallish red tomatoes, on the moderately-acidic side, and distinctly juicy (they're great in salads or eaten out-of-hand, but are not good slicing/sandwich tomatoes). I find it to be about as tasty as Brandywine under my growing conditions, and it's definitely more productive in my garden. Rutgers became the most popular home-garden tomato after it was released (back in 1928, I believe) and I think it's still worthy of being grown. Its flavor is far superior to that of any modern F1 hybrid I've raised or tasted. If you _really_ like acidic tomatoes, try a Purple Calabash. This tomato is WEIRD... misshapen, oddly colored inside and out (brown/purple/green/reddish mixture), tough-skinned, warty, has to be cut from the vine because it won't pull free without squashing. It's very acidic, and its tomato flavor is very strong indeed... almost overpowering for many people. Mixed 1:1 with a sweeter tomato, and simmered into sauce, it's really wonderful - at least, to my taste buds it is. -- Dave Platt VOICE: (415) 813-8917 Domain: dplatt@ntg.com UUCP: ...netcomsv!ntg!dplatt USNAIL: New Technologies Group Inc. 2470 Embarcardero Way, Palo Alto CA 94303 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!csn!yuma!lauras Sat Jul 24 12:30:44 EDT 1993 Article: 20040 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!csn!yuma!lauras From: lauras@picea.CFNR.ColoState.EDU (Laura Stump) Subject: Sweet Corn Failure Sender: news@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU (News Account) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 21:55:43 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: meeker.cfnr.colostate.edu Organization: College of Natural Resources, Colo. State Univ. Lines: 41 After producing a hugely successful crop last year, my sweet corn patch has failed miserably this year. Last year I planted three varieties: Iowa Chief, Silver Queen, and Platinum Lady. All did reasonably well, but Platinum Lady clearly outperformed the other two in most respects (germination success, pollination, taste). So this year I planted only Platinum Lady (part of the problem, I'm sure; monocultures often guarantee failure, and I should have known better...) Anyway, all was going well until about a month after germination of the first planting and about two weeks after second planting (along about mid-June). Then I started noticing dramatically reduced growth and yellowing and curling of leaves, which progressively became worse and worse and began affecting more and more plants. Most haven't actually DIED; they just look terrible, have stopped growing, and will definitely not be producing corn this year! Weather has been fairly unremarkable this year (unlike the rest of the country), other than a nice wet Spring for our arid region. I've been growing corn successfully for several years, so I don't THINK it's anything I've done or not done as far as watering or care. Could this instead be some type of soil-borne disease that cropped up because I failed to rotate the patch since last year? The only guess from a fellow corn-grower that I've heard so far is something he calls "Stephen's Wilt" (which I can't find in my Rodale disease book). He claims it is spread by flea beetles (which we DO have in abundance this year). QUESTIONS: Is my gardening friend right? If so, can anybody out there send me the scoop on this wilt so I know more about it? (especially how to AVOID it in the future! I definitely plan to move the patch to a different location next year.) Assuming he's wrong, any other ideas? Is Platinum Lady particularly disease- prone? Could the wet Spring have prompted the problem this year? I've grown this variety for 3 or 4 years now without a hitch, and I don't think our Spring was THAT unusual. Also, everything else in the garden is fine, so the problem appears confined to the corn. Comments/suggestions much appreciated! Laura From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!pitt.edu!gvls1!rmtc.paramax.com!garyp Sat Jul 24 12:30:45 EDT 1993 Article: 20041 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!pitt.edu!gvls1!rmtc.paramax.com!garyp From: garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/SWE/ARTSIIB]) Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: <1993Jul19.215120.14366@VFL.Paramax.COM> Date: 19 Jul 93 21:51:20 GMT References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> Sender: news@VFL.Paramax.COM (IEE news user) Organization: Paramax Systems Lines: 18 Nntp-Posting-Host: rmtcf4.rmtc.paramax.com Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:529 rec.gardens:20041 For all you soft cores: Holding some bread on the back of your tongue will relieve the burning sensation from that pepper that you underestimated. Someone once told me this was because the bread soaks up the saliva in your mouth that is allowing the pepper to burn. I really never cared why it works, but any Armenian could clue you in as to what to do. Developing a taste for peppers can be socially limiting. I have found that when I prepare spicy foods, my friends are usually not able to enjoy them 'cause they are too hot. Also, I am usually disappointed by the 'hot' stuff on most menus. - Gary P. P.S. It has been my experience that flat breads (like tortillas) do not do nearly as good a job as sourdoughs, whites, frenches, etc. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!world!twm Sat Jul 24 12:30:46 EDT 1993 Article: 20042 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!world!twm From: twm@world.std.com (thomas W martin) Subject: hyacinth beans in Massachusetts Message-ID: Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 22:29:05 GMT Lines: 19 I have eight hyacinth bean vines growing on my backyard fence. I tried growing them several years ago and got only leaves and no blossoms. I grew up in Virginia where both vines and blossoms seemed to do fine. Is there anyone else in New England or other climes with a shorter growing season than Va. who have had luck with hyacinth beans thanks, Tom Martin ******************************************************************************* Tom Martin (617) 335-2742 P.O. Box 128 North Weymouth, MA 02191 twm@world.std.com "I realize that it is not my role to transform either the world or man: I have neither sufficient virtue nor insight for that. But it may be to serve, in my place, those few values without which even a transformed world would not be worth living in, and man, even if "new" would not deserve to be respected." Albert Camus in Actuelles I, chroniqes 1944-48 ****************************************************************************** From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!bio-ccb4.stanford.edu!krswit Sat Jul 24 12:30:46 EDT 1993 Article: 20043 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!bio-ccb4.stanford.edu!krswit From: Kathy Rehm Switky Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: double-grafted fruit trees? Date: 19 Jul 1993 22:19:42 GMT Organization: Center for Conservation Biology, Stanford University Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22f6lu$agf@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bio-ccb4.stanford.edu X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Mon, 19 Jul 93 15:20:14 GMT Hello gardeners, A local garden store is featuring double-grafted fruit trees...thus from one tree you can harvest two kinds of fruits -- say, apricots and plums, etc. Sounds neat...but I wonder about the longevity of the trees, the quality of the fruit... Anyone have any experience with these? Kathy From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling Sat Jul 24 12:30:47 EDT 1993 Article: 20044 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Message-ID: <1993Jul19.222646.29916@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> <1993Jul19.200817.18588@cirrus.com> Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 22:26:46 GMT Lines: 13 In article <1993Jul19.200817.18588@cirrus.com> tomc@cirrus.com (Tom Crawford) writes: >I started Brandywine from seed this year. Took me three tries >to get any to come up at all. They have leaves like peppers. So >far I don't have any fruit set. Sure hope something good happens. >tomc@cirrus.COM > I started all my Brandywines from seed, indoors in sterile potting medium. The seedlings did very well, and took transplanting into larger pots and then into the garden with much less apparent shock than other tomato varieties. Brandywines do have prehistoric looking leaves. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spcvxb!hsh!paul Sat Jul 24 12:30:47 EDT 1993 Article: 20045 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spcvxb!hsh!paul Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Sources of HOT Stuff? (was Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: <1993Jul19.171345.2153@hsh.com> From: paul@hsh.com (Paul Havemann) Date: 19 Jul 93 17:13:45 EDT References: <50.7461.1066.0N001530@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca> Organization: HSH Associates Lines: 15 Can someone suggest some mail-order sources for the various types of killer peppers and chiles? I KNOW I saw something in Time magazine last fall... and a reference to a couple of catalogs somewhere else... but darned if I can find them now. Any leads appreciated! ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ Paul Havemann (paul@hsh.com) No, it's not some kind of death wish... it's a favor for a friend. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spcvxb!hsh!paul Sat Jul 24 12:30:48 EDT 1993 Article: 20046 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!spcvxb!hsh!paul Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Food Dehydrators: Tool or Toy? Message-ID: <1993Jul19.171454.2154@hsh.com> From: paul@hsh.com (Paul Havemann) Date: 19 Jul 93 17:14:54 EDT Organization: HSH Associates Lines: 26 I'm curious as to anybody's experiences with food dehydrators. On the 'pro' side, I can see a use for them while fruit (and some veggie) prices are so low where I live -- and especially since my raspberry crop is coming in gangbusters. ;) On the 'con' side, I wonder: - how much use they actually get. Is this, like juicers and choppers and such, one of those things that sound nice but are impractical? How long, for example, does it take to dehydrate a typical load? How well do most foods (veggies & fruits mostly) re-hydrate, and how tasty/nutricious are they? - whether dehydrateds have any advantages over frozen foods other than not taking up freezer space and getting freezer-burned. My raspberries, for example, don't keep well for long periods even in the deep freeze. And is it faster to rehydrate or to defrost? And, from those who would recommend them, any specific recommendations? Apparently, the more expensive ones work better, but the DAK catalog's model may be all I need to do the occasional load of mushrooms. Thanks for any advice. ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ Paul Havemann (paul@hsh.com) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!kds52568 Sat Jul 24 12:30:48 EDT 1993 Article: 20047 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!kds52568 From: kds52568@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (The Bean) Subject: newbie with a not so green thumb Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 01:55:47 GMT Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 14 HI. I'm sure this is a FAQ, and I apologize if it is. I'm moving into a house in the fall that actually has *windows* believe it or not. In the past I have tried to grow plants in dingy apartments and failed miserably. (YES I have managed to kill 3 philodendrons already.) What I'd like are opinions about various "beginner" books that I could use to read up on plants before I buy them, that would have general helpful hints and coachings. :) I would appreciate it much. Email responses are fine, especially if this is a FAQ. thanks again, the bean From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!kds52568 Sat Jul 24 12:30:51 EDT 1993 Article: 20048 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!kds52568 From: kds52568@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (The Bean) Subject: Re: newbie with a not so green thumb Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1993 20:14:37 GMT Message-ID: References: Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 17 kds52568@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (The Bean) writes: >HI. I'm sure this is a FAQ, and I apologize if it is. >I'm moving into a house in the fall that actually has >*windows* believe it or not. In the past I have tried >to grow plants in dingy apartments and failed miserably. >(YES I have managed to kill 3 philodendrons already.) >What I'd like are opinions about various "beginner" >books that I could use to read up on plants before >I buy them, that would have general helpful hints >and coachings. :) I would appreciate it much. >Email responses are fine, especially if this is a FAQ. >thanks again, >the bean From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!fletcher.cba.uiuc.edu!kfletcher Sat Jul 24 12:30:52 EDT 1993 Article: 20049 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!fletcher.cba.uiuc.edu!kfletcher From: kfletcher@commerce.cba.uiuc.edu (Karen Fletcher) Subject: wildflower meadows Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 19:39:44 GMT Message-ID: Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Organization: College of Commerce Lines: 18 I have started on a tiny scale this year, planting a 3x40 strip of wildflowers. They are MAGNIFICENT! I find a reason to go on an inspection trip several times a day to see what's new. They are growing enthusiastically on a strip of clay ground so sour and hardpacked that it didn't even support weeds! All I did was scratch in a couple of inches of compost. I'm looking forward to a new combination next year when the perennials come into their own. Sooner or later I will have more scope and am definitely thinking ahead to working on a larger scale. Has anyone had experience with 1/4 acre or more wildflower or mixed grass/wildflower plantings? Also, has anyone done a theme garden with just native wildflowers? Here in the Midwest, we have a tremendous range to choose from since the native tallgrass prairie was so diverse. (Don't get me wrong, I'm not a purist about native regional species - too many really NEAT wildflowers out there - but natives seem to have an edge in this climate of tropical/ arctic extremes.) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail Sat Jul 24 12:30:52 EDT 1993 Article: 20050 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!dorsai.dorsai.org!dorsai.dorsai.org!not-for-mail From: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bug juice?! Does it work? Date: 19 Jul 1993 18:41:49 -0400 Organization: The Dorsai Embassy Lines: 13 Message-ID: <22f7vd$2pq@dorsai.dorsai.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: dorsai.dorsai.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] I read in my copy of Rodale's encyclopedia that you can make a solution of squashed bugs and water and spray this on your plants to keep bugs similar to the squashed ones away. This almost sounds like sympathetic magic to me but I have seen stranger things! Has anyone tried this technique with much success? I am almost willing to try it to keep the squash bugs and japanese beetles out!! -- ~ "...the minds of its leaders are blown away ~ David Gurzynski ~ ~ scattered like old newspapers ~ Brooklyn NY ~ ~ blown through a cemetery." ~ dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org ~ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:30:53 EDT 1993 Article: 20051 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Today's capsule portrait of Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul19.174425.14924@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 19 Jul 93 17:44:25 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 3 "Iowa: Land of one lake... but it's a beaut!" (Donald Kaul, in Des Moines Sunday Register) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!pipex!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Sat Jul 24 12:30:53 EDT 1993 Article: 20052 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!pipex!sunic!kitten.umdc.umu.se!fizban.solace.hsh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) Subject: Iris reticulata Message-ID: Summary: Why did my Iris reticulata turn out differently from the picture? Keywords: iris reticulata Sender: news@lysator.liu.se Organization: Lysator ACS at Linkoping University Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 22:53:59 GMT Lines: 15 Last fall I bought some Iris reticulata bulbs. In the picture on the boxes they had midblue petals some 2 cm wide. When they flowered this spring, they had very dark petals, almost black, and they were less than 1 cm wide. I was quite disappointed with the mass of spindly black flowers. Did I do something wrong, or was there something wrong with the bulbs? It was quite hot and dry at the time. The strange thing was that the bulbs were from two different manufacturers. Any ideas, or should I just compost them? --Ceci -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== "There is no one true path. I always try to follow three or four to maximize my odds of picking the right one." Paul Bort =================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!sdd.hp.com!inn Sat Jul 24 12:30:54 EDT 1993 Article: 20053 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!sdd.hp.com!inn From: davds@hpsdde.sdd.hp.com (David Schwantner) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Soil Testing Req's Date: 19 Jul 1993 23:39:21 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard, San Diego Site Lines: 17 Message-ID: <22fbb9INN2dr@hpsdlss3.sdd.hp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: hpsdd57.sdd.hp.com X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.80 I have looked at all of the FAQ's, and haven't seen this, so: Does anyone have any recommendations for a soil testing lab, hopefully in Southern Cal., but it could be anywhere? What should one expect to pay for a complete test with recommendations for improvement of the soil? I just started my first garden this season, cherry tomatoes, yellow toms, eggplant, zuchs, anahiem peppers, and what was supposed to be cantalopes(they turned out to be watermellons:-( ), and everything is growing fantastic. But, most stuff is smaller than I would like, and I am sure that the soil could use some fine tuning. I know people have different views on whether soil testing is good or necessary, but I want to try a shot at it anyway. Thanks in advance for the help!!! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!sanger.bio.uci.edu!mspitzer Sat Jul 24 12:30:54 EDT 1993 Article: 20054 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!sanger.bio.uci.edu!mspitzer From: mspitzer@sanger.bio.uci.edu (Matt Spitzer) Subject: Re: peppers :( --> :) Nntp-Posting-Host: sanger.bio.uci.edu Message-ID: <2C4B4A98.4101@news.service.uci.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Organization: University of California, Irvine Lines: 17 Distribution: rec Date: 20 Jul 93 01:30:00 GMT Keywords: rice, habaneros First, on the subject of taming pepper heat, one of the best antidotes is rice, white or brown. One of the biggest mistakes people make when eating hot Szechuan or Thai food is to put the hot stuff on top of their rice. If you keep your rice separate from the peppery dish it can be used to cool off your mouth. Now, on the subject of untamed hot peppers, does anyone have any ideas how I could get my habanero to produce more fruit? The plant appears to be good sized, about 1 ft. diameter with healthy looking green leaves, but so far has only produced 3 peppers. By contrast, the cayenne growing right next to it has easily produced 100 peppers so far. Am I doing something wrong, or are habanero's less productive than other hot peppers? Matt Spitzer From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!news.service.uci.edu!biivax.dp.beckman.com!falstaff.css.beckman.com!not-for-mail Sat Jul 24 12:30:55 EDT 1993 Article: 20055 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!news.service.uci.edu!biivax.dp.beckman.com!falstaff.css.beckman.com!not-for-mail Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: double-grafted fruit trees? Message-ID: <22fhlm$804@falstaff.css.beckman.com> From: heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com (Matt Heffron) Date: 19 Jul 1993 18:27:18 -0700 Reply-To: heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com References: <22f6lu$agf@morrow.stanford.edu> Distribution: world Organization: Scientific Services, Beckman Instruments, Inc. NNTP-Posting-Host: falstaff.css.beckman.com X-Newsreader: NN version 6.4.19 Lines: 56 In <22f6lu$agf@morrow.stanford.edu> Kathy Rehm Switky writes: >Hello gardeners, >A local garden store is featuring double-grafted fruit trees...thus from >one tree you can harvest two kinds of fruits -- say, apricots and plums, >etc. >Sounds neat...but I wonder about the longevity of the trees, the quality >of the fruit... >Anyone have any experience with these? >Kathy Not with the store bought trees, but I have grafted 5 different varieties of plum onto the remnants of a mangled peach tree that was in my yard when I bought my home. The grafts of last year (March/April 92) bore fruit this year. No complaints about quality! (But after only 1 year's growth, QUANTITY was low!) According to my associates in the California Rare Fruit Growers, grafting multiple varieties should have NO affect on tree longevity. Why not graft your own? You can then choose the exact varieties you want, the root-stock for the size tree you want (dwarf, semi-dwarf...), etc. You could: - graft together varieties to get an extended fruit bearing season (early, mid-season, and late-bearing varieties). - graft a required pollenator onto a tree that isn't self-pollenating (so you don't need 2 trees) - get varieties that the store never heard of: eg. Green Gage or Shiro Plums (green/gold and yellow, resp.) The birds seem to leave these alone...they never look ripe to them! GRAFTING IS NOT HARD! I couldn't quite get confident enough to try it from reading a book, but once I was shown how at a CRFG grafting demo, I tried it and got 80% success the first time. You can graft together almost any combination of stone fruits (peach, plum, apricot, nectarine, almond!), combination of pome fruits (apple, pear), combination of citrus fruits (by bud-grafting "budding", by the way, now's the time for budding citrus (at least in So.Cal.)), etc. IT'S FUN! Just do it! (tm) Nike ;-) Matt Heffron PS. Note for the "peach-o-philes", I didn't graft peaches onto my peach tree, 'cuz my neighbor's LARGE peach and nectarine trees hang over the fence! PPS. The chairman for our local chapter of CRFG has enough different varieties of fruit in his small yard, to have at least 2 different kinds of fruit in season EVERY DAY OF THE YEAR! Lots of grafted trees! -- Matt Heffron heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com Beckman Instruments, Inc. voice: (714) 961-3128 2500 N. Harbor Blvd. MS X-11, Fullerton, CA 92634-3100 I don't speak for Beckman Instruments unless they say so. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!olivea!apple.com!ntg!dplatt Sat Jul 24 12:30:55 EDT 1993 Article: 20056 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!olivea!apple.com!ntg!dplatt From: dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt) Subject: Re: Brandywine tomatoes Message-ID: <1993Jul20.013747.20993@ntg.com> Organization: New Technologies Group, Inc. Palo Alto CA References: <1993Jul17.161155.13396@adobe.com> Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 01:37:47 GMT Lines: 21 In article tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) writes: > Actually, I don't cage any tomatoes now - >I grew two of several types last year, and put one of each type in a >cage, while staking the other up with bamboo poles. Stakes won, hands down. >No comparison. If you're faithful enough to keep adding new stakes and tying the plants to them, regularly, I can believe you. The disadvantage with stakes is that they still let the plants sprawl... badly... if you don't add new ties fairly frequently, and a lot of the fruits end up down near the ground in slug territory. Lazy bums like myself tend to get better results with big cages, I think. I use ones rolled out of 5'-by-7' rectangles of 6" concrete reinforcing mesh. They're great for "set it and forget it" growing of indeterminate tomatoes. -- Dave Platt VOICE: (415) 813-8917 Domain: dplatt@ntg.com UUCP: ...netcomsv!ntg!dplatt USNAIL: New Technologies Group Inc. 2470 Embarcardero Way, Palo Alto CA 94303 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!livia.acs.Virginia.EDU!jef2f Sat Jul 24 12:30:56 EDT 1993 Article: 20057 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!livia.acs.Virginia.EDU!jef2f From: jef2f@livia.acs.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: yellow-jackets (a nest in my yard) Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Security and Technology Planning, ITC/UVA References: <22brg4$sft@agate.berkeley.edu> <22c7sk$7ee@news.acns.nwu.edu> Distribution: usa Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 01:13:15 GMT Lines: 29 In article <22c7sk$7ee@news.acns.nwu.edu> rhalgren@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Robert Halgren) writes: > >In article <22brg4$sft@agate.berkeley.edu> chesl@garnet.berkeley.edu (Gail Chesler) writes: >>How can I get rid of a nest of yellow-jackets in the ground in my >>yard? Normal commercial products available which will work? Any >>suggestions? e-mail or post ((chesl@garnet.berkeley.edu) Thanks, >>gail chesler > (Stuff deleted about skunks...) I have had good luck using boiling water to get rid of these guys. Its free and not too toxic to anything except the grass(will brown it temp.)and the yellow- jackets. Mark the nest in daylight. When dusk or night hits, pour large container of boiling water into hole. Reapply next evening. Good luck, Adam --- Adam Finkelstein VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St. Harrisonburg, VA 22801 adamf@hopper.acs.virginia.edu> From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!ulkyvm!rmdelc01 Sat Jul 24 12:30:57 EDT 1993 Article: 20058 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!darwin.sura.net!ukma!netnews.louisville.edu!ulkyvm!rmdelc01 Organization: University of Louisville Date: Monday, 19 Jul 1993 11:51:23 EDT From: Message-ID: <93200.115123RMDELC01@ULKYVM.BITNET> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Lilac Question References: <1993Jul15.153511.29313@news.mentorg.com> Lines: 13 I hope this doesn't sound too dumb....I'm a neophyte gardener, and last May I bought a French Lilac bush (it was on sale for $1.99, so I figured what the heck). It's still alive, but really weird. It's only a little over a foot tall and has hardly any leaves, and the leaves are *tiny*...not even 1 cm long I'd say. What leaves there are seem healthy, and the wood itself is fine...not dry or dead or anything. I've tried it in sunlight and in shade, but it just doesn't seem to respond. Is this normal? Is there something I can do? My husband wants to dig it up and throw it out, but I really don't want to give up on the poor little thing yet, since it doesn't seem to be ill, just stunted. Rose From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ac814 Sat Jul 24 12:30:57 EDT 1993 Article: 20059 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ac814 From: ac814@Freenet.carleton.ca (Wendy Buckner) Subject: Re: irises Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Reply-To: ac814@Freenet.carleton.ca (Wendy Buckner) Organization: The National Capital Freenet References: Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 04:52:32 GMT Lines: 29 In a previous article, djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) says: >In article flammia@lcs.mit.edu writes: >>My irises are turning brown, have a sticky liquid at the base and white worms >>in the bulbs. Why and what can I do about it? > >I hate to be a defeatist, but I read an article in the newspaper a few >weeks ago that reflected my own feelings about bearded irises--thay should >be listed among plants that are too much trouble to grow. (I don't recall >the other plants on the list--I think tulips were included.) > > David, I have to disagree. The beardeds in my garden are an incredible show in the spring, along with tulips, crocus, hyacinths, grape hyacinths, narcissi & bleeding hearts. The earliest plantings are four now, and no iris borers--however they are also planted in full sun in the front yard of a south facing house. But how on earth could someone find tulips too much trouble to grow? -- Wendy ac814@freenet.carleton.ca ... still flourishing From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!planet.bt.co.uk!polaris!prk Sat Jul 24 12:30:58 EDT 1993 Article: 20060 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!planet.bt.co.uk!polaris!prk From: prk@planet.bt.co.uk (Peter Knight) Subject: Re: couple of gardening questions.. Message-ID: Sender: news@planet.bt.co.uk Organization: BT Labs, Martlesham Heath, Ipswich, UK. References: <1993Jul19.175837.7141@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 07:58:26 GMT Lines: 58 mma@bellcore.com () writes: >I am somewhat of a novice at gardening (can't seem to resist >plant sales!). > - I have a couple of dahlia that I planted this spring. > They are doing beautifully -- do I have to dug them > up for storage in the fall or just leave them be? Dig them up when the frosts have killed the top-growth, trim off the growth, dry them in a frost-free shed/garage, dust with fungicide and store in just damp sand. > - I have two gardenia which are also doing nicely on > my deck. I don't have a whitefly problem yet with > them but when I do, what can I use on them? Something > organic is preferred (most of the commercial insecticide > state not to use on gardenias). Dunno. > - I have some snapdragons that are beginning to seed -- > how/when do I gather them and store them for next year? > - same question with respect to zinnia. Generally for seed collecting, collect the seed pods as they ripen, put them in an envelope or paper bag and put them in the salad drawer of the fridge. Don't use polythene. If you don't know when they are ripe, collect some of the seed-pods once a week, and store these. Seeds usually change from green to brown or black when they are ripe. Becareful of letting the pods get over-ripe when collecting seed, or they will be dropped before you get any. > - I have some roses which I transplanted last fall. I > pruned them back considerably (hoping to lessen the > shock). Only one is blooming this summer..The others > are not (their stems are getting wider and there is > plenty of leaves, no bugs/pests)..What can I do? Wait till next year, then feed. A mulch next spring would also help. > - african violets - I have some african violets which are > getting too big. what is the best way to keep them manageable? > I have tried prune back the lower leaves (but then the > stem gets longer and the plant doesn't look right). Tried dividing them? When they start back into growth next spring, get an old bread knife and divide them up, discarding any of the oldest growth. >Thanks in advance. >Mary > Peter Knight #include From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 Sat Jul 24 12:30:58 EDT 1993 Article: 20061 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink!a8427 From: Barry_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Barry Carlson) Subject: Filipendula -Plant I.D. Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 04:24:18 GMT Message-ID: <26777@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: news@deep.rsoft.bc.ca (Usenet News at rsoft.bc.ca) Lines: 37 In response to David Gurzynski: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org who writes: >A friend of mine was visiting Denmark and saw a couple of plants in the >Norresunoby garden, along with their latin names and Danish names but >doesn't know what their common english names might be. He brews beer (as I >do) and from their swedish names they may have something to do with >brewing. They are; Latin Danish >Filipendula ulmaria almmjodurt >Filipendula hexapetalia knoldmjodort >If anyone has any idea of what the common names of these plants are and how >they might be used, I would highly appreciate your assistance. Filipendula ulmaria is usually called Meadowsweet. Other common names for it are: Bridewort, Queen-of-the Meadow, Meadsweet and Meadwort. The last two common names refer to its old time use as a flavouring for honey liquor or mead. Among other things it was a strewing herb in Elizabethan times. Filipendula hexapetalia is known by the common names Dropwort or Goatsbeard. (There are at least two other plants also known as Goatsbeard which are botanically completely different). Dropwort is a close relative of Meadowsweet and apparently can be used in the same manner. I found the following recipe for Meadowsweet Beer in "Green Medicine" by Mrs. C.F. Leyel. She says that is as "an old fashioned and wholesome country drink". "Take equal quantities of meadowsweet, dandelion and agrimony, and boil them together for about twenty minutes; the proportion of the dried herbs is about two ounces of each to two gallons of water. Then strain and add to the water two pounds of sugar and half a pint of barm or yeast. Let it stand in a warm place for twelve hours and then bottle." -Hope this helps, but what on earth is "barm"??? -Moira Carlson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!foedc Sat Jul 24 12:30:59 EDT 1993 Article: 20062 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!foedc From: Friends of the Earth Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 19 Jul 93 06:54 PDT Subject: Re: air cleaning plants Message-ID: <1453300270@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 6 We have some clippings which I would be happy to send to you. Send me your address either in conf or to my box directly. Alex Hittle Friends of the Earth foedc@igc.apc.org From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!cusanell Sat Jul 24 12:30:59 EDT 1993 Article: 20063 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!cusanell From: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic S. Cusanelli) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pole Beans Message-ID: <39663@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 20 Jul 93 10:57:27 GMT References: <1993Jul18.071226.4400@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> Reply-To: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli) Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 11 I've had very good success planting beans (Kentucky Wonder, Tendergreen Bush, this year) and peas (sugar snap, snow peas) with the following method: Dig a trench 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep and drop the seeds 4 inches apart into bottom. Fill trench with peat moss (the dry stuff that comes in large blocks). Water regularly. I've been planting by this method for the last 3 years, after trying many other ways. By the way - no presoaking, nothing else but the peat moss on top. ...Dom.. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!cusanell Sat Jul 24 12:31:00 EDT 1993 Article: 20064 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!cusanell From: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic S. Cusanelli) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: peppers :( --> :) Message-ID: <39665@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 20 Jul 93 11:07:47 GMT References: <2C4B4A98.4101@news.service.uci.edu> Reply-To: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli) Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 15 It has been my experience that cayenne plants are the best producing of the hot pepper varieties (in terms of number of peppers). Don't be dissapointed that your habanero plant pales by comparison - its one of the "low" producers. Thank goodness you need only one habanero to flavor most dishes! While I'm on the subject: Heavy yield peppers: cayenne, jalapeno, anaheim, ancho Moderate: Cal wonder, red cherry, cubannelle, yellow wax Low: habanero These are the varieties I'm familiar with. Please add to the list, anyone, I'd like to find out about this subject. ...Dom From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!kday Sat Jul 24 12:31:01 EDT 1993 Article: 20065 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!kday From: kday@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Kevin Day) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Harvesting Cauliflower Message-ID: <39666@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 20 Jul 93 11:20:17 GMT Reply-To: kday@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Kevin Day) Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 15 This is the first year I have attempted growing cauliflower. They look real good but I'm not sure when is the best time to harvest them. Can anyone help me out here? K. Scott Day (kday@oasys.dt.navy.mil) Carderock Division, Naval Surface Warfare Center Code 1252 Bethesda, Maryland 20084-5000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ * "The point to remember is that what the government gives * it must first take away." * -John S. Coleman ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!malgudi.oar.net!chemabs!jac55 Sat Jul 24 12:31:01 EDT 1993 Article: 20066 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!malgudi.oar.net!chemabs!jac55 From: jac55@cas.org () Subject: Herbs and Spices Message-ID: <1993Jul20.111113.29243@cas.org> Sender: Alec Chambers Organization: Chemical Abstracts Service, Columbus, Ohio References: <1993Jul18.071226.4400@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> <39663@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 11:11:13 GMT Lines: 11 I think this was discussed a few weeks ago, and I missed most of it. Apologies for the repetition if that is the case. Are the seeds sold for use in culinary seasonings treated, e.g. by baking, to prevent germination? We have seed from an Indian plant called _Nigella indica_ (kalonji, or wild black onion), that may be a relative of love-in-a-mist and we'd like to try to germinate it. Alec Chambers From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!cwebster Sat Jul 24 12:31:02 EDT 1993 Article: 20067 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!cwebster From: cwebster@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Cassandra J Webster) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: indoor small fountain-type thing Date: 20 Jul 1993 12:07:27 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 18 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <22gn5v$atp@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu I was wondering if anyone has tried an idea I came up with a few nights ago - I want to put a small- I'm not really sure what to call it - "pond" type structure in a corner of our apt. where there are 2 windows on either side. Something only let's say 12" deep, and 2' long. I'd like to have water lilies on the top, but will they germinate there? If not, will seedlings survive there? I'd like to plant some other plants around this "pond" (which will be in some hard structure with some type of pump to make a little waterfall, and maybe a few tiny fish, but I doubt they'd live) also, in seperate planters. Any advice would be apprieciated! Sincerely, Sandi Webster From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!ams.com!e-math.ams.com!ash Sat Jul 24 12:31:02 EDT 1993 Article: 20068 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!ams.com!e-math.ams.com!ash From: ash@ulysses.mr.ams.com (Alan Harder) Subject: Re: Lilac Question In-Reply-To: 's message of Monday, 19 Jul 1993 11:51:23 EDT Message-ID: Sender: news@e-math.ams.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: ulysses.mr.ams.com Organization: American Math. Society References: <1993Jul15.153511.29313@news.mentorg.com> <93200.115123RMDELC01@ULKYVM.BITNET> Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 14:01:37 GMT Lines: 33 In article <93200.115123RMDELC01@ULKYVM.BITNET> writes: >I hope this doesn't sound too dumb....I'm a neophyte gardener, and >last May I bought a French Lilac bush (it was on sale for $1.99, so >I figured what the heck). It's still alive, but really weird. >It's only a little over a foot tall and has hardly any leaves, and >the leaves are *tiny*...not even 1 cm long I'd say. What leaves >there are seem healthy, and the wood itself is fine...not dry or >dead or anything. I've tried it in sunlight and in shade, but >it just doesn't seem to respond. Is this normal? Is there something >I can do? My husband wants to dig it up and throw it out, but I >really don't want to give up on the poor little thing yet, since it >doesn't seem to be ill, just stunted. >Rose Sice you tried it in sunlight and in shade, I presume you've already dug it up and moved it once. I would just leave it where it is and allow it to put out some roots. All of my lilacs, regardless of sun or shade, took a while to get a root system established. Now, after two years, they are finally starting to grow into very healthy bushes. Also, a little bit of fertilizer doesn't hurt. -Alan Harder ash@math.ams.org The above commentary, which does not *even* represent the opinion of the American Mathematical Society, is sold by weight, not by volume. Some settling of the contents may have occurred during shipping. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!seuss.cc.utexas.edu!cliff Sat Jul 24 12:31:03 EDT 1993 Article: 20069 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!seuss.cc.utexas.edu!cliff From: cliff@seuss.cc.utexas.edu () Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: peppers :( --> :) Date: 20 Jul 1993 13:12:19 GMT Organization: University of Texas at Austin Lines: 12 Distribution: world Message-ID: <1993Jul20.080620@seuss.cc.utexas.edu> References: <2C4B4A98.4101@news.service.uci.edu> <39665@oasys.dt.navy.mil> NNTP-Posting-Host: barbaloot.cc.utexas.edu This is just my experience but I have had wonderful results with habaneros here in Austin. I had enough from two plants last year to last me until this year's plant started producing. I have but one habanero plant and it produces 2-4 ripened fruits per day. I bought the plant from an excellent nursery here in Austin (Marbridge Farms) and it already had fruit. Last night's experience...sirloin stir-fry with habaneros. A little garlic, an onion, some broccoli, some steak and two habaneros. Talk about the yin and yang of food it was hot as hell but tasted like heaven. -- <@> From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!news.larc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!usenet Sat Jul 24 12:31:03 EDT 1993 Article: 20070 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!news.larc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!usenet From: judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Herbs and Spices Date: 20 Jul 1993 13:28:17 GMT Organization: NASA/Langley Research Center Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22grthINN37i@rave.larc.nasa.gov> References: <1993Jul18.071226.4400@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> <39663@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <1993Jul20.111113.29243@cas.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: mollusk.larc.nasa.gov In article <1993Jul20.111113.29243@cas.org> jac55@cas.org () writes: > > Are the seeds sold for use in culinary seasonings treated, e.g. > by baking, to prevent germination? We have seed from an Indian > plant called _Nigella indica_ (kalonji, or wild black onion), that > may be a relative of love-in-a-mist and we'd like to try to > germinate it. Why not just try it and see? I'd be really interested in the results, as I've been looking for nigella seeds and wondering if they were, indeed, the same as Love-in-a-mist. Judith Moore judith@mermaid.larc.nasa.gov From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!heiser Sat Jul 24 12:31:04 EDT 1993 Article: 20071 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!heiser From: heiser@wam.umd.edu (Mark Donald Heiser) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: banana peppers Date: 20 Jul 1993 14:41:34 GMT Organization: University of Maryland College Park Lines: 11 Message-ID: <22h06u$cpi@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: rac1.wam.umd.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] In my never ending quest to try out plants that I've never grown before, I picked up 4 banana pepper plants at a local nursery and put them in the ground. Well they're doing great and are now loaded with long yellow peppers. What I'd like to know is do I pick them now or will they turn a reddish color when they're ripe? Also, are they hot or sweet? Any other comments by people familiar with these plants would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Mark From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!pbhyb!armally Sat Jul 24 12:31:04 EDT 1993 Article: 20072 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!pbhyb!armally From: armally@pbhyb.PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) Subject: Re: How can I get my lawn a bit greener? Reply-To: armally@PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 15:25:33 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul20.152533.12748@pbhyb.PacBell.COM> References: Lines: 27 In article nguyena@vnet.ibm.com (Tony Nguyen) writes: >I would like to know how can I get a greener lawn. I already fertilize it >about 2months ago with Scotts' Starter (new sod). Been watering very >much but would like to get a healthier lawn. I live in Houston,TX...very >hot. Any suggestion is appreciated. > >************************************************************* >* Anthony Nguyen * Houston, TX * >************************************************************* Hi, Ammonium Sulphate will get your lawn green in 2 weeks after application and good watering. Follow directions on the bag and do not exceed the recommended amount as specified on the bag. Use a good spreader, I use Ammonium Sulphate all the time on my lawn twice in the growing season and once in the dormant season....and in between other fertilization. Good luck!!! Remember do not use more than the recommended amount it can burn your lawn. Arvind Mallya Arvind Mallya the recommended quantity From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ac814 Sat Jul 24 12:31:05 EDT 1993 Article: 20073 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ac814 From: ac814@Freenet.carleton.ca (Wendy Buckner) Subject: Re: indoor small fountain-type thing Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Reply-To: ac814@Freenet.carleton.ca (Wendy Buckner) Organization: The National Capital Freenet References: <22gn5v$atp@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 15:38:16 GMT Lines: 43 In a previous article, cwebster@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Cassandra J Webster) says: > > I was wondering if anyone has tried an idea I came up with a few >nights ago - I want to put a small- I'm not really sure what to call it - >"pond" type structure in a corner of our apt. where there are 2 windows on >either side. Something only let's say 12" deep, and 2' long. I'd like to have >water lilies on the top, but will they germinate there? Water lilies need 6 hours of direct sun per day to bloom. The size of pond you are suggesting is not large enough for regular water lilies, although with some research you might find an appropriate dwarf lily. Certainly you can have bog plants--but again, you'll likely be looking for small ones. I bring my micro-miniature cattails inside for the winter, put them in the fridge for a while to simulate winter, and then bring them back out into the living space. If not, will seedlings >survive there? I'd like to plant some other plants around this "pond" (which >will be in some hard structure with some type of pump to make a little >waterfall, and maybe a few tiny fish, but I doubt they'd live) also, in >seperate planters. > The fish will live, trust me! However, they will also grow! With your pump you will want a filter mechanism to keep organic waste from fish from fouling the water in such a small eco-system. You'll want to think about the balance of your eco-system, you'll want oxygenating plants as well as flowering ones. I'd suggest you look into some water garden books, and any aquarium magazines that have "pond" features. There's a British one out right now showing an indoor pond a gentleman constructed to hold his 16 inch fish that outgrew his aquaria. The fish has some goldfish friends, and the fellow says his wife's plants do amazingly well by the pond. I hope this was of some help! -- Wendy ac814@freenet.carleton.ca ... still flourishing From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!linac!att!cbnewsc!bermes Sat Jul 24 12:31:05 EDT 1993 Article: 20074 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!pacific.mps.ohio-state.edu!linac!att!cbnewsc!bermes From: bermes@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (Terry Bermes) Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Organization: AT&T Looney Bin Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 14:13:52 GMT Message-ID: References: Lines: 11 >From article , by clarke@acheron.UUCP (Ed Clarke/10240000): > > The real problem with LA is that the food tastes SO GOOD!!! I gain five or > more pounds every time I visit New Orleans. Sadly for my diet, I've found > a grocery that will ship taso/boudin/sausage airmail to NY. Could you possibly find it in your heart to share this information with the rest of us? terry From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!mcw102 Sat Jul 24 12:31:06 EDT 1993 Article: 20075 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!mcw102 Organization: Penn State University Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 10:42:15 EDT From: Message-ID: <93201.104215MCW102@psuvm.psu.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: more on peppers... Lines: 6 I have been wondering if my cayenne peppers will become red on the plant or if I have to pick them (they've been full size for about 3 weeks now) and take them inside to "ripen?" Any advice is very welcome! Mary C. Wheeland From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!mcw102 Sat Jul 24 12:31:07 EDT 1993 Article: 20076 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!mcw102 Organization: Penn State University Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 11:13:02 EDT From: Message-ID: <93201.111302MCW102@psuvm.psu.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: banana peppers References: <22h06u$cpi@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> Lines: 12 Bannana peppers can be hot or sweet. The varieties I am the most familiar with are the Hungarian wax. As one local grower told me, she stopped growing the sweet because you can't visually tell the difference between the hot and the sweet. The short answer is: you'll have to taste them to see what you've got! Also, I don't think the bannana peppers will turn red. The same local grower mentioned above said "no" when I asked her. Good Luck! Mary C. Wheeland From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!wujek!kk Sat Jul 24 12:31:07 EDT 1993 Article: 20077 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!wujek!kk From: kk@wujek.durham.nc.us (Krzysztof Kozminski) Subject: Re: peppers :( --> :) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 15:42:48 GMT References: <2C4B4A98.4101@news.service.uci.edu> <39665@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Organization: Relative Software, Inc. Lines: 26 In article <39665@oasys.dt.navy.mil> cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli) writes: > >While I'm on the subject: >Heavy yield peppers: cayenne, jalapeno, anaheim, ancho >Moderate: Cal wonder, red cherry, cubannelle, yellow wax >Low: habanero > >These are the varieties I'm familiar with. Please add to >the list, anyone, I'd like to find out about this subject. Other hi-yield, hi-heat varieties: Tabasco (still haven't finished the crop from the 6 plats I grew 2 years ago, despite having given away about 80% of it) Tuste Verde Inayague Thai Bird Pepper (hi-yield relative to the plant size, but the plant is tiny) moderate yield, hi-heat: Aji All avaialable from J.Hudson, address in FAQ, some from Parks. KK -- Kris Kozminski (kk@wujek.durham.nc.us) "Limit congressmen to two terms. One in office. One in jail." From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!cusanell Sat Jul 24 12:31:08 EDT 1993 Article: 20078 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!cusanell From: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic S. Cusanelli) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: more on peppers... Message-ID: <39713@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 20 Jul 93 17:13:05 GMT References: <93201.104215MCW102@psuvm.psu.edu> Reply-To: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli) Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 7 Let your cayennes ripen to red on the plant. Only bring green ones in to ripen (on windowsill) at the end of the season when you're afraid of a frost. ...Dom From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!uchinews!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Sat Jul 24 12:31:08 EDT 1993 Article: 20079 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!uchinews!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Re: shallot growing questions Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <226cam$pie@GRAPEVINE.LCS.MIT.EDU> <1993Jul19.125518.8509@bmerh85.bnr.ca> <1993Jul19.160225.14356@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> Distribution: na Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 15:51:08 GMT Lines: 11 In article <1993Jul19.160225.14356@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> templin@rintintin.Colorado.EDU (Templin Geri-Ellen) writes: > > Anyone have any luck growing shallots? Is is > an easy to find sources > to buy them from? (lines omitted) I found they were much cheaper to buy in the produce section at the supermarket, than at the local plant store, and the supermarket one grew fine. Dave Daulton From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!olivea!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!clesun!dbernard Sat Jul 24 12:31:09 EDT 1993 Article: 20080 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!olivea!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!clesun!dbernard From: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM (Dave Bernard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: more on peppers... Date: 20 Jul 1993 18:42:16 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22hea8INNgkr@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> References: <39713@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Reply-To: dbernard@clesun.Central.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: clesun.central.sun.com In article 39713@oasys.dt.navy.mil, cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic S. Cusanelli) writes: > > > Let your cayennes ripen to red on the plant. Only bring >green ones in to ripen (on windowsill) at the end of the >season when you're afraid of a frost. > > ...Dom If you do happen to pick green ones early (ie, before reddening), could that encourage the growth of new (replacement) peppers, so that your total yield would be greater? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!trivia.eng.gtefsd.com!theodore Sat Jul 24 12:31:09 EDT 1993 Article: 20081 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!trivia.eng.gtefsd.com!theodore From: theodore@europa.eng.gtefsd.com (Theodore B. Ruegsegger) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: shallot growing questions Date: 20 Jul 1993 18:45:36 GMT Organization: GTE Federal Systems Lines: 17 Distribution: na Message-ID: <22hegg$eg3@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> References: <226cam$pie@GRAPEVINE.LCS.MIT.EDU> <1993Jul19.125518.8509@bmerh85.bnr.ca> <1993Jul19.160225.14356@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> Reply-To: theodore@europa.eng.gtefsd.com NNTP-Posting-Host: trivia.eng.gtefsd.com In article <1993Jul19.160225.14356@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>, templin@rintintin.Colorado.EDU (Templin Geri-Ellen) writes: |> |> Anyone have any luck growing shallots? Do I grow them from sets? Are they hard? Is is |> easy to find sources to buy them from? I live in Colorado - zone 4(?), dry, sunny, gets Le Jardin du Gourmet, Danbury, VT is renowned for the variety and quality of its French shallots. Some are planted in the fall, some in spring, but they are quite easy to grow. Their catalog is a hideous xerox patchwork but has many unusual and hard-to-find items at good prices. I don't know the zip code, but that address will work. --- Theodore B. Ruegsegger GTE Government Systems | Washington, D.C., a city of Southern theodore@europa.eng.gtefsd.com | efficiency and Northern charm. theodore%betster@aquin.ori-cal.com | -- John F. Kennedy From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!vm.cc.purdue.edu!MWORKMAN Sat Jul 24 12:31:10 EDT 1993 Article: 20082 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!vm.cc.purdue.edu!MWORKMAN From: MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu Subject: Strawberries Message-ID: <16C11C19C.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Sender: news@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (USENET News) Organization: Purdue University X-Newsreader: NNR/VM S_1.3.2 Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 18:46:04 GMT Lines: 17 Hi all, I have a question about strawberries. This past may I purchased some strawberry plants from a garden center. I was under the impression (from the teenage sales guy who really did not know what he was talking about, but I knew even less, so...) that my strawberry plants were the kind that would produce berries this year. Well, it doesn't look like that is going to happen, so this brings me to my question. I planted them outside in front of the apartment building (there is a small space under the window for just such a thing). Will they be OK over the winter? Do I need to do anything to them so that they will produce next year? WILL they produce next year? Thanks, Maggie From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:10 EDT 1993 Article: 20083 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: hyacinth beans in Massachusetts Message-ID: <1993Jul20.141707.14946@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 Jul 93 14:17:06 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 14 In article , twm@world.std.com (thomas W martin) writes: > I have eight hyacinth bean vines growing on my backyard fence. I tried > growing them several years ago and got only leaves and no blossoms. I > grew up in Virginia where both vines and blossoms seemed to do fine. Is > there anyone else in New England or other climes with a shorter growing > season than Va. who have had luck with hyacinth beans > thanks, Tom Martin They flower all winter long without supplemental lighting in the ISU greenhouse... so I doubt short days are the problem... but they may need to be started indoors. Another possibility is too much N -- many plants won't flower with abundant soil nitrogen. Kay Klier From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:11 EDT 1993 Article: 20084 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: couple of gardening questions.. Message-ID: <1993Jul20.142032.14947@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 Jul 93 14:20:32 -0600 References: <1993Jul19.175837.7141@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 10 In article <1993Jul19.175837.7141@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, mma@bellcore.com () writes: > - I have two gardenia which are also doing nicely on > my deck. I don't have a whitefly problem yet with > them but when I do, what can I use on them? Something > organic is preferred (most of the commercial insecticide > state not to use on gardenias). Yellow sticky traps. Commercial or homemade. Kay Klier From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:11 EDT 1993 Article: 20085 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Herbs and Spices Message-ID: <1993Jul20.142251.14948@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 Jul 93 14:22:51 -0600 References: <1993Jul18.071226.4400@CERIS.Purdue.EDU> <39663@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <1993Jul20.111113.29243@cas.org> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 12 In article <1993Jul20.111113.29243@cas.org>, jac55@cas.org () writes: > Are the seeds sold for use in culinary seasonings treated, e.g. > by baking, to prevent germination? We have seed from an Indian > plant called _Nigella indica_ (kalonji, or wild black onion), that > may be a relative of love-in-a-mist and we'd like to try to > germinate it. Usually not-- extra cost and it would take some of the flavor out... exception is poppy seed (P. somniferum) which is supposed to be sold only in inviable forms. Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:12 EDT 1993 Article: 20086 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How can I get my lawn a bit greener? Message-ID: <1993Jul20.142656.14949@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 Jul 93 14:26:56 -0600 References: <1993Jul20.152533.12748@pbhyb.PacBell.COM> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 23 In article <1993Jul20.152533.12748@pbhyb.PacBell.COM>, armally@pbhyb.PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) writes: > In article nguyena@vnet.ibm.com (Tony Nguyen) writes: >>I would like to know how can I get a greener lawn. I already fertilize it >>about 2months ago with Scotts' Starter (new sod). Been watering very >>much but would like to get a healthier lawn. I live in Houston,TX...very >>hot. Any suggestion is appreciated. > > Ammonium Sulphate will get your lawn green in 2 weeks after application and > good watering. Follow directions on the bag and do not exceed the > recommended amount as specified on the bag. Use a good spreader, I use > Ammonium Sulphate all the time on my lawn twice in the growing season and > once in the dormant season....and in between other fertilization. IMHO, the wrong thing to do with new lawns, either seed or sod, is to use a high nitrogen fertilizer. That encourages rapid top growth, and the roots usually aren't well enough established to take the stress. Result is usually a patchy or diseased lawn in a few years. I've not gardened in Texas, so things may be different down there, but here I'd be using a dilute feed of something like 2-10-10 to try to get good roots, and hence a better lawn. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins Sat Jul 24 12:31:13 EDT 1993 Article: 20087 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins From: jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Fungicides Date: 20 Jul 1993 19:31:57 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 16 Distribution: na Message-ID: <22hh7d$bnj@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: top.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article lgoodman@bbn.com (Laurie Goodman) writes : >Safer fungicide does not seem to be working with my >botrytis afflicted peony. I have been advised to use >someting stronger, such as a product named Bordeaux. >I would apprerciate hearing from netters who have >knowledge of or experience with this product. > Bordeaux mixture is copper sulfate and lime, used from the 1800's, a preventive fungicide and algaecide. Incompatible with many pesticides. Toxic to fish. Do not let the product stand in the sprayer for a prolonged period of time. Toxic to bees. This is probably the oldest fungicide on the market still used today. From: Ag Chemicals, Book IV, Fungicides by W.T. Thomson, 1991 Revision. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!news.claremont.edu!ucivax!mnaka Sat Jul 24 12:31:13 EDT 1993 Article: 20088 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!news.claremont.edu!ucivax!mnaka From: mnaka@perfect-tommy.ics.uci.edu (Merri L Naka) Subject: Seattle area help request Nntp-Posting-Host: perfect-tommy.ics.uci.edu Message-ID: <2C4C4D8D.15414@ics.uci.edu> Summary: newbie to the Pacific Northwest Newsgroups: rec.gardens Organization: Univ. of Calif., Irvine, Info. & Computer Sci. Dept. Keywords: Seattle Lines: 47 Distribution: na Date: 20 Jul 93 19:54:53 GMT Followup-To: mnaka@ics.uci.edu Greetings! This is a plea for help from those who are familiar with the Seattle area. I'm going to be moving up to the Seattle area after living all of my life here in Southern California. I'm moving up there because my SO's advisor took a position up at the University of Washington, so we're following her. From this, I'm sure you can guess our position -I currently work at UCI, but I'll have no job when we get up there. Jon, my SO, is a grad student -that means we're poor and I'll need a job. So now here's the gardening part: I've been working in a computer related job for the past four years and I've been gardening and growing/showing African Violets only as hobbies. I've been enjoying the hobbies so much that lately I've been considering changing my career. Do you think that it would it be too far fetched to try to get a plant-related job up there? I'm talking about caring for plants in a wholesale nursery, working in a retail nursery or possibly even working in a plant research support position. Oh yes, I forgot to mention that I have a BS in Biological Sciences (long story...) Since I've only been up there once during the beautiful summer, so I have no idea how harsh the winters are. For instance, are the nurseries open all year round or are they seasonal only? Also, since I'd like to live near where I'll end up working, is there anywhere particularly good or bad for plant places? Obviously I have a lot to learn about real weather and gardening up in the Pacific Northwest. :} Would anyone care to show me around once I'm up there or help me out with lists of good gardening places? I'll be going up there to drop off a car and hopefully find a place to live in early August. Then we'll be moving up there with the rest of our stuff in the middle of August. Until then, I will have this account. Please reply here since this topic probably isn't of general interest. Anything that you would like to tell me will be of use. Thank you in advance, Merri -- Merri Naka mnaka@ics.uci.edu University of California, Irvine (So. California, in case you're wondering) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam Sat Jul 24 12:31:14 EDT 1993 Article: 20089 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam From: stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Soil Testing Req's Date: 20 Jul 1993 20:06:57 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 22 Message-ID: References: <22fbb9INN2dr@hpsdlss3.sdd.hp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bolognese.mit.edu In-reply-to: davds@hpsdde.sdd.hp.com's message of 19 Jul 1993 23:39:21 GMT According to all the sources I've come across, every state has a Cooperative Extension that will do soil testing and provide other services. Here in Massachusetts, U Mass did the testing for $7.50. Presumably one of the UC's will provide the service. Several gardening books provide addresses for the Cooperative Extensions in every state, but I don't have one handy right now. The Extension Service was listed under the County government in the local phone book. You could try looking there. Shih Tung Chem E Best l'il Tech School on the Charles From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sat Jul 24 12:31:14 EDT 1993 Article: 20090 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: What are Fava Beans? Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 20:15:38 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: hpdmd48.boi.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 18 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:20090 rec.food.cooking:53218 Can someone tell me what fava beans are? I've heard of them vaguely (Hannibal Lector's comment in "Silence of the Lambs" about eating someone's liver with "fava beans and a nice chianti", I think), but I'm not that familiar with them and don't think I've eaten them before. I'm following a recommendation for planting them as a wintering-over crop to till in and improve the soil, but I'd like to know: What does the bean look/taste like? How do you harvest it? How do you cook it? Thanks, reply by direct e-mail preferred but not necessary. Gary Hypes From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sat Jul 24 12:31:15 EDT 1993 Article: 20091 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 20:34:55 GMT References: Nntp-Posting-Host: hpdmd48.boi.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 20 At the risk of angering some Floridians -- and getting the Net Police after me to move this posting to "alt.flame.sociopolitical" or something -- has anyone noticed the difference in people's attitudes between the Hurricane Andrew disaster and the midwest flooding? Judging by my newspaper's accounts, anyway, it seems like within 3 hours' of Andrew's passing, residents were hollering for Geo. Bush's head because the federal government hadn't already rebuilt the great state of Florida. In contrast, in the midwest, I see neighbors -- literally, next-door neighbors, neighboring towns, and neighboring states -- bending over backwards to help themselves and to help one another survive and maintain through the crisis, and I don't know that so much as a single federal nickle has made its way into Iowa yet after all these weeks. It really seems like the traditional midwest values of self-sufficiency and neighborliness have really come through. To those out in the flood zones: good luck, and God speed. - Gary Hypes - From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news Sat Jul 24 12:31:15 EDT 1993 Article: 20092 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news From: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey) Subject: Re: shallot growing questions Reply-To: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Organization: University of Western Ontario Distribution: na Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 20:40:08 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul20.204008.18138@julian.uwo.ca> References: Sender: news@julian.uwo.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: cupoftea.ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Lines: 23 In article djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) writes: >In article <1993Jul19.160225.14356@ucsu.Colorado.EDU> templin@rintintin.Colorado.EDU (Templin Geri-Ellen) writes: > >I found they were much cheaper to buy in the produce section at the >supermarket, than at the local plant store, and the supermarket one grew >fine. be sure to buy locally grown stuff for planting if you want to ensure it is likely to flourish (unless you're in zone 8-10 where anything will grow if you water it enough :) i had bad garlic success until someone told me that the supermarket ones were from california and wouldn't grow up near me -- now i buy local and seem to have more luck. -- Lance R. Bailey System/Network Manager Robarts Research Institute NeXT/email: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca box: Clinical Trials Resources Group fax: +1 519 663 3789 P.O. Box 5015, 100 Perth Dr. vox: +1 519 663 3787 x4108 London, Canada N6A 5K8 Duct tape is the force:a dark side,a white side, & holding the universe together From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling Sat Jul 24 12:31:16 EDT 1993 Article: 20093 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Message-ID: <1993Jul20.204543.29697@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 20:45:43 GMT Lines: 18 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:20093 rec.food.cooking:53222 In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > >Can someone tell me what fava beans are? I've heard of them vaguely >(Hannibal Lector's comment in "Silence of the Lambs" about eating >someone's liver with "fava beans and a nice chianti", I think), but I'm >not that familiar with them and don't think I've eaten them before. I'm >following a recommendation for planting them as a wintering-over crop to >till in and improve the soil, but I'd like to know: > >What does the bean look/taste like? >How do you harvest it? >How do you cook it? Fava beans are big in Arab cookery, esp. Egyptian where they form the basis of a classic dish whose name I can't quite remember. I'll look thru my cookbooks and post a recipe. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!rutgers!njitgw.njit.edu!tesla.njit.edu!sjo2693 Sat Jul 24 12:31:17 EDT 1993 Article: 20094 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!rutgers!njitgw.njit.edu!tesla.njit.edu!sjo2693 From: sjo2693@tesla.njit.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Fruit Trees Message-ID: <1993Jul20.164540.1@tesla.njit.edu> Date: 20 Jul 93 20:45:40 GMT Sender: news@njit.edu Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology Lines: 2 Nntp-Posting-Host: tesla I'm looking a good mail order supplier of fruit trees,if anyone can help with a name and address it would be appreciated. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu!dragon Sat Jul 24 12:31:17 EDT 1993 Article: 20095 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cso.uiuc.edu!mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu!dragon From: dragon@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu (Tony Sarno) Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 21:38:07 GMT Message-ID: References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> <1993Jul19.215120.14366@VFL.Paramax.COM> Sender: usenet@news.cso.uiuc.edu (Net Noise owner) Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 43 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:540 rec.gardens:20095 garyp@rmtc.paramax.com (Gary Palangian [RMTC/SWE/ARTSIIB]) writes: >For all you soft cores: > Holding some bread on the back of your tongue will relieve the burning >sensation from that pepper that you underestimated. Someone once told >me this was because the bread soaks up the saliva in your mouth that >is allowing the pepper to burn. I really never cared why it works, but >any Armenian could clue you in as to what to do. > Developing a taste for peppers can be socially limiting. I have >found that when I prepare spicy foods, my friends are usually not able >to enjoy them 'cause they are too hot. Also, I am usually >disappointed by the 'hot' stuff on most menus. > - Gary P. >P.S. It has been my experience that flat breads (like tortillas) do >not do nearly as good a job as sourdoughs, whites, frenches, etc. What the *&^#% is this doing in alt.folklore.herbs?!?! Anyone feel like posting their favorite cold-remedy? Anyone have information on the following herbs: Fleabane Hibiscus Flowers Orris Root Poppy Seed (Store-bought, not the narcotic opium) Calendula (Marigold) Flax Seed Fennel Seed ?? -- dart aka Dartanyan aka Wendy Hetrick, apprentice herbalist, jewelerymaker, and general craefter From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!sgigate!odin!blizzard.corp.sgi.com!ccb Sat Jul 24 12:31:18 EDT 1993 Article: 20096 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!sgigate!odin!blizzard.corp.sgi.com!ccb From: ccb@blizzard.corp.sgi.com (Cynthia Besselman) Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Message-ID: Sender: news@odin.corp.sgi.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: blizzard.corp.sgi.com Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc. References: <1993Jul20.204543.29697@adobe.com> Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 21:41:14 GMT Lines: 24 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:20096 rec.food.cooking:53223 In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > >Can someone tell me what fava beans are? I've heard of them vaguely >(Hannibal Lector's comment in "Silence of the Lambs" about eating >someone's liver with "fava beans and a nice chianti", I think), but I'm >not that familiar with them and don't think I've eaten them before. I'm >following a recommendation for planting them as a wintering-over crop to >till in and improve the soil, but I'd like to know: > >What does the bean look/taste like? It is a very large (1+ inch long) bean with a dark brown/mahogany color. The skin is a bit thick or tough, but the bean has a wonderful flavor & consistancy. >How do you harvest it? As any other bean. >How do you cook it? Any way you'd like! Actually, a traditional greek recipe is to cook the beans in a tomato/dill sauce... Or you can boil & drizzle olive oil & lemon juice over them. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu!dattore Sat Jul 24 12:31:19 EDT 1993 Article: 20097 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!ncar!buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu!dattore From: dattore@buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu (Bob Dattore) Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul20.220032.17925@ncar.ucar.edu> Sender: news@ncar.ucar.edu (USENET Maintenance) Organization: Scientific Computing Divison/NCAR Boulder, CO References: Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 22:00:32 GMT Lines: 28 In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > >At the risk of angering some Floridians -- and getting the Net Police >after me to move this posting to "alt.flame.sociopolitical" or something -- >has anyone noticed the difference in people's attitudes between the >Hurricane Andrew disaster and the midwest flooding? Judging by my >newspaper's accounts, anyway, it seems like within 3 hours' of Andrew's >passing, residents were hollering for Geo. Bush's head because the >federal government hadn't already rebuilt the great state of Florida. >In contrast, in the midwest, I see neighbors -- literally, >next-door neighbors, neighboring towns, and neighboring states -- >bending over backwards to help themselves and to help one another >survive and maintain through the crisis, and I don't know that so much >as a single federal nickle has made its way into Iowa yet after all >these weeks. It really seems like the traditional midwest values of >self-sufficiency and neighborliness have really come through. > > >To those out in the flood zones: good luck, and God speed. > >- Gary Hypes - With Hurricane Andrew, the destruction part was over within several hours. That is not the case with the flood. The destruction has been going on for weeks and continues. What good would it do to get money now? How can you start rebuilding your house or your business until the water is gone? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!bert.eecs.uic.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Sat Jul 24 12:31:19 EDT 1993 Article: 20098 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!bert.eecs.uic.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, academic Computer Center Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 14:59:53 CDT From: Message-ID: <93201.145953U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Harvesting Horseradish (& willow tea = aspirin?) References: <39666@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Lines: 15 Okay, so I have this nice healthy looking horseradish (don't know what type). But I don't know how to harvest the root. That is to say I would like to be able to dig it up, cut off most of the root (to eat of course), and replant the plant. Is there anything special I should do? Or can I plunk it back in the ground and give it a good watering? (I'm also inexperienced at grafting, but I think someone just covered that.) BTW, isn't the primary active ingredient in willow bark tea just aspirin? So wouldn't dissolving aspirin in warm water have much the same effect? I've found it does wonders for cut flowers. (My mother-in-law said some tulips we gave her lasted almost a week in such a solution.) Thanks for your help. Hans Goeckner goeckner@uicws.phy.uic.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:31:20 EDT 1993 Article: 20099 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: short corn Message-ID: <1993Jul20.164721.8418@walter.cray.com> Lines: 18 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: Date: 20 Jul 93 16:47:20 CDT In article , bonsai@netcom.com (Mark LaPolla) writes: |> I am looking for a corn hybrid with very short stalks. The shortest I have |> found is around 5 feet. I figure with close planting and little water they'll |> grow even short. (This is part of my hybrid japanese garden.) |> |> Thanks, |> |> M. |> |> -- |> The theory gives the answers, not the theorist. |> -- Allen Newell (UTC:13) Get the Stokes seed catalog and order Polar Vee sweetcorn. It was developed for Central Canada and Alaska where the long days suppress corn maturation. Down here it only grows a foot high and then tassels to make a two foot stalk. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news!agphx.agcs.com!not-for-mail Sat Jul 24 12:31:21 EDT 1993 Article: 20100 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news!agphx.agcs.com!not-for-mail From: mccluerj@agcs.com (John McCluer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: What kind of soap to use? Date: 20 Jul 1993 15:28:13 -0700 Organization: AG Communication Systems - Phoenix, AZ Lines: 20 Message-ID: <22hrht$b9b@cmdctr.agcs.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: cmdctr.agcs.com Keywords: whiteflies soap This question is probably in the FAQ, but I have not yet seen the FAQ, so I will ask it here. I have a bunch of whiteflies in my herb garden, and I have been spraying them with Insecticidal Soap, which seems to be highly diluted soap with a ridiculously high price tag. I assume that some regular (perhaps 'garden variety' :) ) soap would work, but I would like to check this out before spraying. Any suggestions for brands, dilutions, etc.? All help is very much appreciated. -- John McCluer UUCP: ...!{ncar!noao!enuucp | att}!gtephx!mccluerj Internet: mccluerj@acgs.com AG Communication Systems, Phoenix AZ (602) 581-4623 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:31:21 EDT 1993 Article: 20101 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Strawberries Message-ID: <1993Jul20.172649.9020@walter.cray.com> Lines: 48 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <16C11C19C.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Date: 20 Jul 93 17:26:48 CDT Strawberries are divided into June Bearers, Everbearers and Day-Neutral varieties. June bearers bear once in late May or June and then spend the rest of the season making runners which will fruit next year. Everbearers make a smaller June crop and a seconds small crop in late summer or fall. They occasionally produce the odd berry in midsummer also. Day-Neutral varieties produce a small spring crop and then bloom and rest in four to six week cycles. If you want continuous strawberries and have enough room they are the best. However no strawberry produces good fruit in continuous hot humid conditions and the large single crop of june bearers ripens before the worst summer heat. Everbearers also produce more at the moderate boundaries of summer and avoid fruiting during periods when the fruit isn't worth picking. Day-Neutral varieties are excellent for areas with cool summers or long slow springs. The total yield per year is larger for june bearers. I don't grow June bearers but am going to start next year. Tristar is the Day-Neutral variety that I am most familar with. Sweetheart is another Day-Neutral variety which can be grown from seed (Germination is sometimes difficult however) and it makes decent plants which can then be propagated from runners for several years; it isn't a novelty! Unfortunately I can't recommend good June bearers and wouldn't even if I grew them because there are many varieties adapted to various climates and I've never lived in the midwest. A very common everbearer is Ozark Beauty but I have no experience with that one either. The strawberries will need a little winter protection where you are, a little straw or some leaves will be enough. Alternate freezing and thawing and standing water around the roots in soil warmer than 40 degrees are more of a threat than absolute winter cold. They also should not be exposed to winter sun (Mulch helps there too) otherwise there will come the nice day when the soil is still frozen and the plants will wilt from water stress. Good luck! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:22 EDT 1993 Article: 20102 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul20.185511.14956@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 Jul 93 18:55:11 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 87 In article , hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > > At the risk of angering some Floridians -- and getting the Net Police > after me to move this posting to "alt.flame.sociopolitical" or something -- > has anyone noticed the difference in people's attitudes between the > Hurricane Andrew disaster and the midwest flooding? Judging by my > newspaper's accounts, anyway, it seems like within 3 hours' of Andrew's > passing, residents were hollering for Geo. Bush's head because the > federal government hadn't already rebuilt the great state of Florida. > In contrast, in the midwest, I see neighbors -- literally, > next-door neighbors, neighboring towns, and neighboring states -- > bending over backwards to help themselves and to help one another > survive and maintain through the crisis, and I don't know that so much > as a single federal nickle has made its way into Iowa yet after all > these weeks. It really seems like the traditional midwest values of > self-sufficiency and neighborliness have really come through. FEMA is here, Clinton has been through twice, Espy seems to be living here... so the feds are here. But basically, it's gonna be a while before any money comes in from that source. Red Cross and Salvation Army have been marvels. And the in-state benefit fundraisers have begun in earnest. In contrast, the National Guard has been great... and other states have sent help, too. Texas sent a big Chinook helicopter that they used to sandbag the Des Moines water works (after the first flood, alas), and bring in heavy equipment. I think the waterworks is still inaccessible except by boat or chopper, BTW, but there's some water flowing back into the pipes. Fire protection is the first priority, so several businesses who decided to use the first water into the line for cleanup after they were specifically asked not to have had their water shut off. And they won't get it back until everyone else has water.... It may not be potable water for awhile, though. Florida, bless 'em, sent a SWAT team from their attorney general's office to deal with fraud and price gouging... of which there hasn't been much so far. Anyhow, I know our AG appreciates the help. We've also had some peculiarly old fashioned "neighborliness problems"... The IA National Guard had set up in Vet's Auditorium to feed the Guard, and people kept bringing cakes and pies and casseroles and sandwiches... they finally had to ask on the radio for people to not feed the Guard! ;-) Folks in towns near Des Moines have been great about hauling in water, by the milkjug load or by the milk tanker. One of the dairies has shut down milk production entirely to bottle water. Some of the folks in nearby towns have been just leaving their doors open so people (whom they may not know) can bathe and do laundry. As an Iowan, though, I have to admit that I've been fairly rankled by some of the news coverage, esp. accusations that we somehow brought this on ourselves by being unprepared. We've had more rain since May than we normally get in 2 years... and it just keeps raining more (in fact, it's raining right now, and predictions are for at least an inch in the next 24 hrs). The dikes and levees and dams just weren't designed to take this prolonged assault by flood waters... they were designed to handle crests on rivers maybe lasting 24 hours. There has never been a year this wet in recorded Iowa history, even 1851, when many, many towns were washed away. Iowa's topography is basically glacial, so it's fairly rolling hills with steeply eroded river valleys. When the rivers climb out of those (mostly pretty deep) valleys, everything else is likely to get wet... levees or no. I've also heard lots of rumblings about "we don't tell folks that were hit by Andrew and Hugo that they shouldn't live in hurricane country, so why are you ragging us about living in areas that can flood?" On the whole, though, I think we'll come through this pretty well, though there are going to be some really thin times ahead as we pay for this damage... est. $2.7 *B*illion already, in a state with a population of 2.7 *M*illion. The folks I really worry about are the farmers (average farm income is less than $16K net) -- the latest crop estimates out are only 18% of the corn and 16% of the soybeans are in good-to-excellent condition -- in a normal year it would be 90-near 100%... and there are lots of acres that are not going to be worth harvesting, even if the plants survive. And the erosion! (And no, there's not that much covered by flood insurance. Many farmers have quit buying it since the 1990 (minor) floods, where they rarely saw a dime... Anyhow, that's my view from Iowa... and if I lose my internet access, it's probably just a state belt-tightening move. [Anyone need a plant taxonomist???] Kay Klier Biology Dept University of Northern Iowa From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:23 EDT 1993 Article: 20103 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul20.190101.14957@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 Jul 93 19:01:01 -0600 References: <1993Jul20.185511.14956@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 10 In article <1993Jul20.185511.14956@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > > The folks I really worry about are the farmers (average farm income Oops... I should also have included the migrant farm workers, who just barely get by in good years. Many had already arrived to look for work for themselves and others... and there is no work. And no money to move on, and no jobs if they do move on. It's *really* tough for them. Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!charnel!rat!decwrl!koriel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!cheetah.llnl.gov!karyn Sat Jul 24 12:31:24 EDT 1993 Article: 20104 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!charnel!rat!decwrl!koriel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!cheetah.llnl.gov!karyn From: karyn@cheetah.llnl.gov (Karyn Pichnarczyk) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Food Dehydrators: Tool or Toy? Date: 20 Jul 1993 23:52:19 GMT Organization: Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory, NCD Lines: 51 Message-ID: <22i0fk$bqr@lll-winken.llnl.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: cheetah.llnl.gov I've got a dehydrator. I really like it. It makes really great airplane food or other travel food. And it stays well in your desk at work for those times when you are just DYING for food! what I've done: Jerky: you can ask the butcher in your local supermarket to cut the meat thin cuz you're making Jerky. It will be wonderful. Make your own marinade out of soy sauce, hot sauce, peppers, worcester sauce, teriyaki sauce, peppers, onions, peppers and did I mention peppers? YUM! Marinate for about 1/2 hour is all that's necessary. Dry overnite. You may want to put an empty tray at the bottom of the dehydrator with a fruit rollup tray to catch drips. Corn chips: take can of kernel corn. Drain. toss in blender. pour onto "fruit roll up" tray. dry about evening/overnight. (don't use creamed corn - yuck!) 1 can = 1 tray fruit rollups: wash fruit. toss in blender. pour. dry overnite. You can try overdrying to crispy, or just until soft. when it gets so you can pick it up, flip it off the fruit rollup tray to finish the drying quicker. Fruit I've done: blueberries. strawberries. raspberries. I really love to toss in a 1/2 banana with the blueberries or strawberries to give it an excellent flavor. Frozen fruit from the supermarket works. A bag of frozen fruit makes 2 trays, (3 if you add banana) just microwave it to thaw, then toss in the blender. Dried fruit: Banana chips. cut thin, they're like potato chips! apples (cut thin or thick!) cantelope didn't work too well, but watermelon turned out like candy it was so sweet! Kiwi is real tart. veggies: onions dry real tasty, like un-greasy onion rings! And bell peppers also are quite tasty. I couldn't get potatoes to work right, and yams also didn't work. I heard vegetable soup dries great for camping-just toss it in a pot with water and boil! Right now I have some plums (prunes), grapes (raisons) and cherries in the dehydrator. Never tried any of them before. I cut the plums in half, they took forever to dry (about 2 days). So did the raisens and cherries. Does anyone know how to remove cherry stains off of my fingers? I'll be trying spices later in the year, as my plants ripen. remember to turn the drying items occasionally. They tend to stick to the trays. Buy trays with removable screens, just take them apart and stick them in the dishwasher! karyn From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:24 EDT 1993 Article: 20105 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul20.194903.14960@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 Jul 93 19:49:03 -0600 References: <1993Jul20.220032.17925@ncar.ucar.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 26 In article <1993Jul20.220032.17925@ncar.ucar.edu>, dattore@buckhorn.scd.ucar.edu (Bob Dattore) writes: > With Hurricane Andrew, the destruction part was over within several > hours. That is not the case with the flood. The destruction has > been going on for weeks and continues. What good would it do to get > money now? How can you start rebuilding your house or your business > until the water is gone? There's a lot of areas where the water is down, but cleanup is slow because FEMA has to inspect the houses for structural soundness before you can begin to repair. It's also *very* expensive not to be able to cook and live at home, extra expenses for drinking water, ice, clothing, laundry... Emergency food stamp requests have been very high. Many people have also been sent home from work... some won't be paid for their unexpected "vacations", others will lose their jobs entirely as businesses that were hit badly fold. Red tape for welfare of any sort is monumental (I used to work in Polk Co. Social Services, helping computerize), and most folks just really aren't sure what's going to happen when the checking account runs out, as it already has in many cases. We saw congregate meal sites set up fairly soon after Andrew -- but they're only partially available here... etc., etc. On the whole, Iowans are fairly proud of doing for themselves, but this is pretty scary stuff we're facing. A bit of encouragement does wonders. Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:25 EDT 1993 Article: 20106 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Harvesting Horseradish (& willow tea = aspirin?) Message-ID: <1993Jul20.195336.14961@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 Jul 93 19:53:36 -0600 References: <39666@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <93201.145953U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 21 In article <93201.145953U14371@uicvm.uic.edu>, writes: > Okay, so I have this nice healthy looking horseradish (don't know what type). > But I don't know how to harvest the root. That is to say I would like to be > able to dig it up, cut off most of the root (to eat of course), and replant the > plant. Is there anything special I should do? Or can I plunk it back in the > ground and give it a good watering? That's exactly what you do. (Don't water too well, or you'll encourage root rot). > BTW, isn't the primary active ingredient in willow bark tea just aspirin? So Nope. Salicylic acid in willow; aspirin is acetylsalicylic acid. > wouldn't dissolving aspirin in warm water have much the same effect? I've > found it does wonders for cut flowers. (My mother-in-law said some tulips we > gave her lasted almost a week in such a solution.) The seven-up solution works even better. But the acid in aspirin will retard some bacterial growth. Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:25 EDT 1993 Article: 20107 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: wildflower meadows Message-ID: <1993Jul20.200711.14962@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 20 Jul 93 20:07:11 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 48 In article , kfletcher@commerce.cba.uiuc.edu (Karen Fletcher) writes: > I have started on a tiny scale this year, planting a 3x40 strip of > wildflowers. They are MAGNIFICENT! I find a reason to go on an inspection > trip several times a day to see what's new. They are growing > enthusiastically on a strip of clay ground so sour and hardpacked that it > didn't even support weeds! All I did was scratch in a couple of inches of > compost. I'm looking forward to a new combination next year when the > perennials come into their own. > > Sooner or later I will have more scope and am definitely thinking ahead to > working on a larger scale. Has anyone had experience with 1/4 acre or more > wildflower or mixed grass/wildflower plantings? Also, has anyone done a > theme garden with just native wildflowers? Oh yes... you need to do some prairie reading... various issues of the proceedings of the North American Prairie conference (there's been 13) will help you get started on prarie propagation. The main points are that you MUST control weeds the first year until the plants get their roots under them and you have to get rid of bluegrass and smooth brome before you start, or they'll win. Roundup and a year of tillage do a good job. Other reading suggestions (many books are being written on gardening with wildflowers, these are just some I happen to have handy) Art, Henry W. 1986. A garden of wildflowers: 101 Native species and how to grow them. Garden Way. ISBN 0-88266-405-6 Hebb, Robert S. 1975. Low maintenance perennials. Quadrangle Books. ISBN 0-8129-0587-3 Loewer, Peter. 1991. The Wild gardener. Stackpole books. 0-8117-0885-3. Martin, Laura C. 1986. The wildflower meadow book: A gardener's guide. Eastwoods Press. 0-88742-073-7 National Wildflower Research Center. Wildflower Handbook. (Mine is 1986, but I think there is a more recent edition). *Smith, JR and Smith, BS. 1980. The Prairie Garden. Univ. of Wisconsin Press, Madison (*probably the closest to the bible for prairie restoration) Sullivan, GA and Daley, RH. 1981. Directory to resources on wildflower propagation. O-941994 Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman!pgraham Sat Jul 24 12:31:26 EDT 1993 Article: 20108 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman!pgraham From: pgraham@herman.cs.uoguelph.ca (Paul Graham) Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Followup-To: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Date: 19 Jul 1993 18:18:03 GMT Organization: University of Guelph Lines: 26 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22eogr$5rl@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> <13JUL199308510878@venus.tamu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: herman.cs.uoguelph.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:547 rec.gardens:20108 MANHART, JAMES (j0m1742@venus.tamu.edu) wrote: : You have to remember that your Mexican friends have probably been : eating hot peppers their whole lives. You can build up resistance I remember reading an interesting article in DISCOVER magazine a couple years back that discussed the chemical in peppers that made them taste *hot*. A study that was done in conjunction with the research rated the 'hotness' of different peppers and also the tolerance of certain people to the heat. I think the top end of the spectrum was around 15000 units. Canadians from British Columbia were about the wimpiest averaging a tolerance of about 5000, the North American average was about 6600 and Mexicans clocked in at a staggering average of, if I remember correctly, 11,500 + !!! I should go back and look up that article .. the particulars could be interesting. -- ---------------------------------------. .-----------------------. | Paul Graham | | "To hit the ball | | Senior B. Landscape Architecture | | and touch them all, | | Computing and Communication Services | | a moment in the sun." | | University of Guelph | | | | | | - John Fogarty | | | | | `---------------------------------------' `-----------------------' From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:31:26 EDT 1993 Article: 20109 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Sources of HOT Stuff? (was Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <50.7461.1066.0N001530@freddy.ersys.edmonton.ab.ca> <1993Jul19.171345.2153@hsh.com> Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 17:15:12 GMT Lines: 28 In article <1993Jul19.171345.2153@hsh.com> paul@hsh.com (Paul Havemann) writes: > >Can someone suggest some mail-order sources for the various types >of killer peppers and chiles? >------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ ------ >Paul Havemann (paul@hsh.com) > > No, it's not some kind of death wish... it's a favor for a friend. Well, one place to start would be the "Mo Hotta Mo Betta" Catalog which, in addition to dried chiles and such, seems to offer mostly sauces, condiments and gift-ware like T-shirts and hats. The address: MO HOTTA-MO BETTA P.O. Box 4136 San Luis Obispo 93403 800-462-3220 or FAX 805-545-8389 I think I spent $1 for the catalog, but haven't actually ordered anything yet because I'm too busy growing my own. You could also pick up a copy of Chile Pepper Magazine, there are ads galore for chiles, some you can order frozen straight from Hatch, NM! --Kim Fisher (posting on Scott's account) "I grow 'em, HE eats them! -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:31:27 EDT 1993 Article: 20110 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Food Dehydrators: Tool or Toy? Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <1993Jul19.171454.2154@hsh.com> Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 17:26:19 GMT Lines: 39 In article <1993Jul19.171454.2154@hsh.com> paul@hsh.com (Paul Havemann) writes: > >I'm curious as to anybody's experiences with food dehydrators. On the 'pro' >side, I can see a use for them while fruit (and some veggie) prices are so >low where I live -- and especially since my raspberry crop is coming >in gangbusters. ;) > >On the 'con' side, I wonder: >- how much use they actually get. Is this, like juicers and choppers and > such, one of those things that sound nice but are impractical? > How long, for example, does it take to dehydrate a typical load? > How well do most foods (veggies & fruits mostly) re-hydrate, and how > tasty/nutricious are they? > >And, from those who would recommend them, any specific recommendations? Last year my in-laws sent me one of those that you see advertised on those info-mercials. Actually, I like it, and last summer and fall it was in almost constant use. THE BIG HOWEVER, however, is I think it depends on what you want to use it *For*. I dried chile peppers (worked great) and herbs (also great) but was disappointed in drying plums, and the tomatoes were nasty. Maybe more experimentation was in order, but I ended up saucing the tomatoes (freezingand canning the plums (jams and cordials) I definitely would not try drying a raspberry. Drying time varies with what you're drying, peppers (whole) take 2-3 days herbs overnight to 24hours. The bonus is that while the thing is going your house will smell fabulous! (except in the case where we tried bananas, since neithr of us really like them, the kids do, it was yecchy) I would be interested in other's experiences, since I think I could do more with it. --Kim Fisher -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:31:28 EDT 1993 Article: 20111 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: peppers :( --> :) Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <2C4B4A98.4101@news.service.uci.edu> <39665@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 19:38:03 GMT Lines: 74 In article <39665@oasys.dt.navy.mil> cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli) writes: > > It has been my experience that cayenne plants are the best >producing of the hot pepper varieties (in terms of number of >peppers). Don't be dissapointed that your habanero plant >pales by comparison - its one of the "low" producers. >Thank goodness you need only one habanero to flavor most >dishes! While I'm on the subject: >Heavy yield peppers: cayenne, jalapeno, anaheim, ancho >Moderate: Cal wonder, red cherry, cubannelle, yellow wax >Low: habanero > >These are the varieties I'm familiar with. Please add to >the list, anyone, I'd like to find out about this subject. The biggest producer this year, as last year, appears to be our Fresno plants. A word of warning about Fresnos, though: they are the most variable of all peppers we've grown. Some of the pods are mild, sweet, almost like a more delicate bell pepper. Others are hotter than serranos, which in turn are hotter than jalapenos. And there appears to be *no way to tell* from the outside. Our Fresno plants (we've got two this year) have probably 35 to 50 peppers between them. Next is an Anaheim, with probably 12 to 15 (some small, though). Other than that, the garden got off to a slow start this year due to the weird, cool spring, so not all the plants have peppers.... ...but our habanero does! It's got one definite green pod (just a little larger than a pea), and about a dozen blossoms. We have lost two blossoms already, though, so I've been fussing more than usual over this one. Other good producers from last year are serrano, which have a great flavor (especially in salsa) and are an attractive plant, with smaller leaves in a darker green (with an almost grey-silver cast to them) than the other peppers, and lots of tiny pods that are very dark when green and very bright when red. This year, our "Mexican Chili" plant (from a nursery; looks like it's a long green/ red variety, like an Anaheim) is coming on strong, and the Jimmy Nardello (a sweet Italian variety) has put on half a dozen pods in the past week. Plants that look promising are the New Mexico #6, the Arledge (which has a nice 3" long cayenne type pod and about half a dozen little peanut-sized pods starting), the Hungarian Rainbow Wax, the Sweet Mini, a couple of Cubanelles, and even the rocotillo which has buds but not blossoms yet. I think some of the Santa Fe Grandes have buds, and one might even have a blossom. The only sweet pepper with a pod on it is our Golden Bell; the California Wonder, though, just started blooming up a storm, so the kids will have sweet bell peppers later this summer. Still no buds on the Thais, the Alaku Paradiscom Sarga Szentesi, the guajillo, the sweet chocolate, the Ecuadorian choco, the Super Shepherd, this year's serrano plants, or the manzano rojo. And the Santo Domingo Pueblos haven't budded either, to my knowledge (another long green/red type from new Mexico). The poblanos might have, but I can't remember. And since Kim was too shy to post this, we did a quick tally the other night and came up with 11 sweet varieties, 16 hots, for a total of 27 different cultivars from 4 of the 5 economically significant species of the capsicum genus. (We're missing c. baccatum, the Andean variety, though we've found a local source for the fresh fruit and will try to get seeds for next year.) The hit rate for seedlings was pretty high, with over 80 individual plants, 50 in the ground last weekend and more after Kim transplanted a few yesterday. --Scott "This week we should have chile verde" Fisher -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:31:28 EDT 1993 Article: 20112 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Harvesting Cauliflower Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <39666@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 19:44:03 GMT Lines: 36 In article <39666@oasys.dt.navy.mil> kday@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Kevin Day) writes: > > This is the first year I have attempted growing cauliflower. They >look real good but I'm not sure when is the best time to harvest them. >Can anyone help me out here? As a general rule, we've found it best to harvest vegetables when they're still smaller than the ones you see in the store. The larger most vegetables get, the tougher and more bitter they taste. With cauliflower and broccoli, harvest them when they're up to 6-8" across for the sweetest taste. This, BTW, is especially true with eggplants. Leaving an eggplant on the stem till it's the size of the ones in the store seems to take most of the sweetness and tenderness out of them. The eggplant we had in last night's dinner (an eggplant, two tomatoes, and herbs from the garden, plus some ground lamb, all served on couscous) was no larger than a generous-sized grapefruit, and was tender and sweet. Peppers, of course, need to stay on the plant till they ripen if you want them red (or orange, or whatever color they turn), and are an exception. But peppers are technically berries, not vegetables. In fact, one useful differentiation I make between fruits and vegetables is that vegetables are often better when not fully ripe, while fruits are best when ripened on the plant. Doesn't stop me from eating green chiles, though... --Scott -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:31:29 EDT 1993 Article: 20113 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: banana peppers Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <22h06u$cpi@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 22:35:24 GMT Lines: 31 In article <22h06u$cpi@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> heiser@wam.umd.edu (Mark Donald Heiser) writes: > > In my never ending quest to try out plants that I've never grown before, > I picked up 4 banana pepper plants at a local nursery and put them in > the ground. Well they're doing great and are now loaded with long yellow > peppers. What I'd like to know is do I pick them now or will they turn > a reddish color when they're ripe? Also, are they hot or sweet? Any > other comments by people familiar with these plants would be appreciated. > Thanks in advance. Pick them yellow. They will eventually turn red, but as my reference books states, (and personal experience will confirm) they are almost inedible red. Hot or sweet? There are two different varieties, soem hot some sweet, so only tasting will tell you for yourself. My guess is, though, they ususally call the sweet ones Bananas and the hot ones Hungarian Wax. Either way,they are good raw, pickled, in salsa, etc. I'm looking at an interesting recipe in Jean Andrew's book for Banana Pepper Botanas that looks good, basically split and filled with cream cheese, garlic Roquefort and topped with chopped pecans. Hmmmm.... and I didn't grow any this year.... wonder if it'd work with a Cubanelle.... Have fun! I'm waiting for my colored varieties to turn, but Scott keeps eating them green! --Kim (posting on Scott's account) -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!world!moroney Sat Jul 24 12:31:29 EDT 1993 Article: 20114 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!world!moroney From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) Subject: Re: Harvesting Horseradish (& willow tea = aspirin?) Message-ID: Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA References: <39666@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <93201.145953U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 04:21:55 GMT Lines: 12 writes: > BTW, isn't the primary active ingredient in willow bark tea just aspirin? So >wouldn't dissolving aspirin in warm water have much the same effect? I've >found it does wonders for cut flowers. (My mother-in-law said some tulips we >gave her lasted almost a week in such a solution.) Willow contains salicylic acid, which is similar to aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid). I believe salicylic acid works about as well as aspirin but is harsher on the stomach. -Mike From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!zadallv!mel Sat Jul 24 12:31:30 EDT 1993 Article: 20115 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber1.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!zadallv!mel From: mel@zadall.wimsey.com (Melanie Arabsky) Subject: Re: banana peppers Organization: Zadall Systems Group, INC. Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 00:25:32 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul21.002532.21566@zadall.wimsey.com> References: <22h06u$cpi@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> <93201.111302MCW102@psuvm.psu.edu> Lines: 20 In article <93201.111302MCW102@psuvm.psu.edu> writes: >Also, I don't think the bannana peppers will turn red. The same local >grower mentioned above said "no" when I asked her. Good Luck! > I have a banana pepper plant, and so far the peppers are green/purplish black. The tag shows that they should be yellow. Will they turn yellow? Or is there something wrong? The biggest pepper is about 4 inches long. Thanks, Melanie -- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Many years ago he looked out through a glassless window All that he could see was Babylon. Beautiful green fields and dreams And learned to measure the stars, but there was a worry in his heart. Didn't understand much what he saw. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!zazen!psl.wisc.edu!lonetree.physics.wisc.edu!nicklaus Sat Jul 24 12:31:30 EDT 1993 Article: 20116 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!zazen!psl.wisc.edu!lonetree.physics.wisc.edu!nicklaus From: nicklaus@lonetree.physics.wisc.edu (Dennis Nicklaus) Subject: clematis doesn't bloom (boo hoo) Message-ID: <1993Jul20.203231.15693@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu> Sender: news@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu (USENET News System) Organization: High Energy Physics References: Date: Tue, 20 Jul 93 20:32:31 GMT Lines: 14 Hi, A year ago, my wife gave me three clematis vines. They are doing and grew much taller this year than last, but only one of them has had any flowers and it only had 3 so far.. I ferilized it with miracle grow for flowers earlier in the year, but haven't lately because we've had so much rain (Madison, WI) (so I haven't had to water them at all and I would fertilize when watering) It has been pretty wet, but they are pretty well drained and not standing in water or anything. Their stems seem sort of woody like. (but leaves, etc are still green). Is this normal? I don't know much about growing them but I like the flowers a lot! Any suggestions? Dennis From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!caen!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!zazen!psl.wisc.edu!lonetree.physics.wisc.edu!nicklaus Sat Jul 24 12:31:31 EDT 1993 Article: 20117 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!caen!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!zazen!psl.wisc.edu!lonetree.physics.wisc.edu!nicklaus From: nicklaus@lonetree.physics.wisc.edu (Dennis Nicklaus) Subject: Drowning Lilacs Message-ID: <1993Jul20.204718.15867@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu> Sender: news@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu (USENET News System) Organization: High Energy Physics References: Date: Tue, 20 Jul 93 20:47:18 GMT Lines: 39 Me again. Unlike the clematis I just posted about, we have some lilac bushes which are in a pretty low part of the yard. Water drains through there on way to the street. There isn't really water sitting on top of the soil except right after a rain, but if I dig a hole 6" down, I end up with 1" of water in the hole right away. It's been a very wet year. So the lilacs are drowning, apparently, which really bums me out. But I really want them in this part of the yard to act as sort of a screening hedge/border (about 6-7 in a row). Since the water drains through that area, I can't really put up a big long landscaping mound to plant the bushes in without turning my & my neighbors yard into a lake (probably). So what I came up with was making little mounds about 3ft. in diameter and 8-12" or so high to plant each individual lilac bush (little ones, like three feet high that you would buy) in. This works out to basically sitting the bush & root ball out of the container on top of the ground (actually just barely below ground level) and building a nice mound of dirt around it. Then surrounding each bush mound with circle of black edging and mulching on top of the mound. I hope dryness won't be a problem since there should be plenty of sub-surface or surface water for the roots to go get. I live in Madison WI. Will this winter freeze kill bushes planted like this? So I'm looking for some re-assurance. Does this have a chance of working? Or should we just forget about our wonderful plans for a lilac hedge. And you know how some come in those "cardboard" pots & they say just plant it cardboard pot & all? Well I had one like it and it really drowned quickly this year. Seems the cardboard (even though well-slit & cut up) really held the water inside. Anybody want some slugs? It is so wet in our yard that we have millions. I put out my daughter's baby pool, and wehen I picked it up, the bottom outside had dozens on it. When I was digging around the wet lilacs, I saw lots of mutant white slugs that hadn't had any light. Talk about the willies! Thanks for any help! Dennis From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news Sat Jul 24 12:31:31 EDT 1993 Article: 20118 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news From: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey) Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Reply-To: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Organization: University of Western Ontario Distribution: na Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 11:24:58 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul21.112458.11273@julian.uwo.ca> References: Sender: news@julian.uwo.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: cupoftea.ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Lines: 17 In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > > >What does the bean look/taste like? >How do you harvest it? >How do you cook it? it is a shelled bean, like a lima or navy. they resemble lima beans, but are twice as big, have a thicker 'skin' and are dark brown. i treat them like limas. -- Lance R. Bailey System/Network Manager Robarts Research Institute NeXT/email: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca box: Clinical Trials Resources Group fax: +1 519 663 3789 P.O. Box 5015, 100 Perth Dr. vox: +1 519 663 3787 x4108 London, Canada N6A 5K8 "CRUISE SHIPS take Airport Exit" -- sign on San Diego highway From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!ogicse!flop.ENGR.ORST.EDU!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!babbage.ece.uc.edu!ucunix.san.uc.edu!uceng.uc.edu!cccbbs!carolina.biehle Sat Jul 24 12:31:32 EDT 1993 Article: 20119 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!ogicse!flop.ENGR.ORST.EDU!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!babbage.ece.uc.edu!ucunix.san.uc.edu!uceng.uc.edu!cccbbs!carolina.biehle From: carolina.biehle@cccbbs.UUCP (Carolina Biehle) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Brewing plants in Denmark Message-ID: <14377.121.uupcb@cccbbs.UUCP> Date: 20 Jul 93 22:55:00 GMT Article-I.D.: cccbbs.14377.121.uupcb References: <22cqb4$57b@dorsai.dorsai.org> Reply-To: carolina.biehle@cccbbs.UUCP (Carolina Biehle) Distribution: world Organization: Cincinnati Computer Connection - Cincinnati, OH - 513-752-1055 Lines: 30 DG=>.@SUBJECT:Brewing plants in Denmark?! N DG=>.@FROM :dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org N DG=>.@MSGID :<22cqb4$57b@dorsai.dorsai.org> N DG=>A friend of mine was visiting Denmark and saw a couple of plants in the DG=>Norresunoby garden, along with their latin names and Danish names but doesn' DG=>know what their common english names might be. He brews beer (as I do) and DG=>from their swedish names they may have something to do with brewing. They ar DG=> Latin Danish DG=> Filipendula ulmaria almmjodurt DG=> Filipendula hexapetalia knoldmjodort DG=>If anyone has any idea of what the common names of these plants are and how DG=>they might be used, I would highly appreciate your assistance. I have some information regarding these plants ,but unfortunately none of it concerns beer brewing.They are both used as ornamental perennials ; and they grow best in constantly moist soil in partial shade.They are hardy up to zone 4. Filipendula ulmaria (falsely called Spirea ulmaria) whose common name is Queen-of-the-meadow is a beautiful 4 ft tall herb with white feathry plumes.It is used to produce organic dyes;the roots yield a black color, and the stems and foliage a greenish yellow hue. Filipendula hexapetalia (correctly named F.vulgaris)is commonly called Dropwort.It is 2-3 ft tall with fernlike leaves and white flowers. It is sometimes incorrectly sold as Spirea filipendula. I hope that this will help you. --- . JABBER v1.2 . Carolina Biehle=>cccbbs!carolina.biehle@uceng.uc.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!sifon!clouso.crim.ca!comback!oligojo!claude Sat Jul 24 12:31:33 EDT 1993 Article: 20120 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!sifon!clouso.crim.ca!comback!oligojo!claude From: claude@oligojo.login.qc.ca (Claude Gelinas Agr.) Subject: Re: How can I get my lawn a bit greener? References: Organization: oligojo Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 08:21:21 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul21.082121.1531@oligojo.login.qc.ca> Lines: 13 Just add some liquid chelated iron and your lawn will turn green in 48 hours. Put 150 ml of 5% chelated iron solution per 1000 sq feet, wiht about 10 liter of water. Could be done with a simple syphon that fits to the end of the hose, like the one used to apply insecticide. by, claude -- ======================================================================== Claude Gelinas Agr. /\ claude@oligojo.login.qc.ca LE GRAND CHELATEUR... /Fe\ tel : 514 652 9764 Montreal, Que, Can \Mn/ Fax : 514 652 7861 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!news.itd.umich.edu!merit.edu!patmcg Sat Jul 24 12:31:33 EDT 1993 Article: 20121 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!news.itd.umich.edu!merit.edu!patmcg From: patmcg@merit.edu (Pat McGregor) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Date: 21 Jul 93 14:33:14 GMT Organization: University of Michigan Lines: 28 Message-ID: References: <1993Jul20.204543.29697@adobe.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: merit.edu Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:20121 rec.food.cooking:53273 kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) writes: >In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: >> >>Can someone tell me what fava beans are? I've heard of them vaguely >>(Hannibal Lector's comment in "Silence of the Lambs" about eating >>someone's liver with "fava beans and a nice chianti", I think), but I'm >>not that familiar with them and don't think I've eaten them before. I'm >>following a recommendation for planting them as a wintering-over crop to >>till in and improve the soil, but I'd like to know: >> >>What does the bean look/taste like? >>How do you harvest it? >>How do you cook it? >Fava beans are big in Arab cookery, esp. Egyptian where they form the >basis of a classic dish whose name I can't quite remember. I'll look thru >my cookbooks and post a recipe. Those folks who are taking a Mono-amine oxidase inhibitor (MAOI) drug for blood pressure or depression, or those who are tryptophan sensitive should avoid Fava beans completely. Pat McGregor University of Michigan and Earwig afflicted Ann Arborite. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco!roberson Sat Jul 24 12:31:34 EDT 1993 Article: 20122 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco!roberson From: roberson@eos.ncsu.edu (JAMES D ROBERSON) Subject: Re: Food Dehydrators: Tool or Toy? Message-ID: <1993Jul21.130654.17385@ncsu.edu> Originator: roberson@water1.bae.ncsu.edu Sender: news@ncsu.edu (USENET News System) Reply-To: roberson@eos.ncsu.edu (JAMES D ROBERSON) Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos References: <1993Jul19.171454.2154@hsh.com> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 13:06:54 GMT Lines: 35 In article , sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes : > From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) > > Last year my in-laws sent me one of those that you see advertised on > those info-mercials. Actually, I like it, and last summer and fall it > was in almost constant use. > > THE BIG HOWEVER, however, is I think it depends on what you want to > use it *For*. I dried chile peppers (worked great) and herbs (also great) > but was disappointed in drying plums, and the tomatoes were nasty. Maybe > more experimentation was in order, but I ended up saucing the tomatoes > (freezing and canning the plums (jams and cordials) I definitely would > not try drying a raspberry. > > Drying time varies with what you're drying, peppers (whole) take 2-3 days > herbs overnight to 24hours. The bonus is that while the thing is going > your house will smell fabulous! (except in the case where we tried bananas, > since neithr of us really like them, the kids do, it was yecchy) > > I would be interested in other's experiences, since I think I could do > more with it. > > --Kim Fisher My in-laws gave one to me also. (DAK, I believe.) I used it for tomatoes and herbs last year (5 trays) and was very pleased with the results. I used small end-of-the-year tomatoes. The first batch I sliced thin and dried overnight which ended up tissue thin and brittle. The second and subsequent batches I cut the tomatoes into wedges and dried 2 days. These are great for soups and pasta salad. Kinda chewy, but a great flavor. jim From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!infonode!cogito.b17d.ingr.com!bfh Sat Jul 24 12:31:34 EDT 1993 Article: 20123 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!infonode!cogito.b17d.ingr.com!bfh From: bfh@cogito.b17d.ingr.com (Burgess Howell) Subject: Silver Maple fading fast Message-ID: <1993Jul21.144804.9468@infonode.ingr.com> Sender: usenet@infonode.ingr.com (Usenet Administrator) Reply-To: bfhowell@cogito.b17d.ingr.com Organization: "PIPS Documentation, Intergraph Corp, Huntsville AL" Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 14:48:04 GMT Lines: 34 Maybe this doesn't belong here, but I have noticed a few other tree-related posts lately, so... I have 4 silver maples in my yard, each about 7' with a 1-1.5" trunk. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a few small brown spots on the leaves of one tree. Within a few days, the spots were on every leaf. The leaves had curled downward and had a dry, leathery texture. Within a few more days, most leaves were completely brown and the tree was shedding fast. It is nearly bare now. I first thought the problem was lack of sufficient water (were in a pretty nasty drought here in N. Alabama), but watering didn't help. No obvious signs of insects. Bark looks okay. I was about ready to shrug it off and find a replacement tree, but yesterday I noticed the same spots on one of the remaining 3 trees. Walking around the neighborhood, I found about a dozen other silver maples similarly afflicted. None of the neighbors knows what the problem is. I'd *really* rather not have to end up replacing all 4 trees. Anybody got any advice? Guesses? E-mail replies appreciated (our newsfeed is always about 4 days late and it looks like the window of opportunity is pretty short). =============================================================================== Burgess F. Howell EMAIL: bfhowell@ingr.com Image Application Customer Support VOICE: 205-730-1226 Intergraph Corporation FAX: 205-730-9550 MS IW17D1 Huntsville, Al 35894-0001 =============================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu!BETHA Sat Jul 24 12:31:35 EDT 1993 Article: 20124 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu!BETHA From: BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu (Beth Anderson) Subject: Re: Gardenia pests Message-ID: <16C129837.BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu> Sender: news@news.yale.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: yaleads.ycc.yale.edu Organization: Yale University References: <223jfiINN713@early-bird.think.com> <1993Jul15.224615.16831@megatek.com> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 93 10:49:22 EDT Lines: 31 In article <1993Jul15.224615.16831@megatek.com> redman@megatek.com (Tim Redfield) writes: > >From article <223jfiINN713@early-bird.think.com>, by George T. Pearson : >> What on earth are these new critters... > (stuff deleted) >Sounds like scale to me. I usually find it with ants alongside. I >believe you can use some really nasty chemicals to knock it out... > > >-- >| Tim Redfield INTERNET: redman@megatek.com | >| "I love the smell of salt water in the morning - | >| it smells like... victory!" | Hi, I'm new to this group; well, actually, I've been reading, but not writing, for a while... anyway, I hope it's okay if I respond. I had scale on my African Violets and my Aloe, and I tried dish soap and alcohol several times, unsuccessfully. This stuff is apparently really hardy, and hard to get rid of. I finally resorted to an "agent of death" - Ortho makes a product that should get rid of it, but it takes several applications over a period of time. Hope this helps. Beth From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!pbhyb!armally Sat Jul 24 12:31:36 EDT 1993 Article: 20125 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!pbhyb!armally From: armally@pbhyb.PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) Subject: Re: fig trees Reply-To: armally@PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 15:18:42 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul21.151842.3409@pbhyb.PacBell.COM> References: <93201.101522ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> Lines: 21 In article <93201.101522ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> writes: >All of this posting recently about figs has intrigued me. Should I plan to >start a fig tree, how many years from planting -> bearing? I'm currently near >Phoenix, but where else in the U.S. do they grow well? Sun or shade? Big >trees or little ones? > >Information please. >Thanks, Stefani Hi, I have a fig tree in my backyard. It is a mission fig with red pulp inside, from a tiny plant which was propogated from a branch of another tree it took almost 3 years to bear fruit. It is located in a sunny location, drops it's leaves in winter and grows very prolific in spring with lot's of fruit. I wanted to train the plant into a tree, but never got around to that...well it is a semi-tree form (15-20 feet tall), with lot of trunks and no main trunk. Good luck!!! Arvind Mallya From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!msc.edu!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams Sat Jul 24 12:31:36 EDT 1993 Article: 20126 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!msc.edu!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!cherry10!dadams From: dadams@cray.com (David Adams) Subject: Re: Herbs and Spices Message-ID: <1993Jul21.100109.11536@hemlock.cray.com> Lines: 25 Nntp-Posting-Host: cherry10 Reply-To: dadams@cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993Jul20.142251.14948@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 Jul 93 10:01:09 CDT In article 14948@iscsvax.uni.edu, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu () writes: |In article <1993Jul20.111113.29243@cas.org>, jac55@cas.org () writes: |> Are the seeds sold for use in culinary seasonings treated, e.g. |> by baking, to prevent germination? We have seed from an Indian |> plant called _Nigella indica_ (kalonji, or wild black onion), that |> may be a relative of love-in-a-mist and we'd like to try to |> germinate it. | |Usually not-- extra cost and it would take some of the flavor out... exception |is poppy seed (P. somniferum) which is supposed to be sold only in inviable |forms. | |Kay So what do you have to do to get black peppercorns to germinate? I was un successful. --- David, N0WWN --David C. Adams Statistician Cray Research Inc. dadams@cray.com -Sourdough and Ham- - Minnesotans for Global Warming! - (&gardner) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!engage.sps.mot.com!fmbutt Sat Jul 24 12:31:37 EDT 1993 Article: 20127 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!engage.sps.mot.com!fmbutt From: fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq M. Butt) Subject: Re: peppers :( --> :) Message-ID: Sender: news@oakhill.sps.mot.com Nntp-Posting-Host: engage Organization: Motorola RISC Software, Austin, TX References: <2C4B4A98.4101@news.service.uci.edu> <39665@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 15:27:21 GMT Lines: 17 Hmmmmmmm I wonder what the deal is with all the low-producing habaneros out there. I have four habbies out there on my deck and all of them are loaded with fruit. I did give _em_ some 5-10-5 and some iron (they seem pretty darn prone to cholriosis) and they are producing like mad. They did seem to be kinda iffy when I got them this spring (from a farm in upstate New York, BTW, who warned me that they don't produce much fruit) but sa soon as the weather turned errrr Texas-like (95+ highs, 75+ lows), they just went crazy! I think it must the the "heat thang." fmb -- Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightest relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!wvnvms.wvnet.edu!cerc.wvu.edu!babcock.cerc.wvu.edu!petro Sat Jul 24 12:31:37 EDT 1993 Article: 20128 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!wvnvms.wvnet.edu!cerc.wvu.edu!babcock.cerc.wvu.edu!petro Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: eggplants: when to pick Message-ID: From: petro@hancock.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (James Petro) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 14:53:20 GMT Sender: news@cerc.wvu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Concurrent Engineering Research Center Nntp-Posting-Host: hancock.cerc.wvu.edu Lines: 6 How do I know when my eggplants are ready to pick? thanks in advance ------------- Jim Petro petro@cerc.wvu.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!ams.com!e-math.ams.com!ash Sat Jul 24 12:31:38 EDT 1993 Article: 20129 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!ams.com!e-math.ams.com!ash From: ash@ulysses.mr.ams.com (Alan Harder) Subject: Re: clematis doesn't bloom (boo hoo) In-Reply-To: nicklaus@lonetree.physics.wisc.edu's message of Tue, 20 Jul 93 20:32:31 GMT Message-ID: Sender: news@e-math.ams.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: ulysses.mr.ams.com Organization: American Math. Society References: <1993Jul20.203231.15693@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 14:43:41 GMT Lines: 33 In article <1993Jul20.203231.15693@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu> nicklaus@lonetree.physics.wisc.edu (Dennis Nicklaus) writes: >Hi, >A year ago, my wife gave me three clematis vines. >They are doing and grew much taller this year than last, but >only one of them has had any flowers and it only had 3 so far.. >I ferilized it with miracle grow for flowers earlier in the year, but haven't >lately because we've had so much rain (Madison, WI) (so I haven't >had to water them at all and I would fertilize when watering) >It has been pretty wet, but they are pretty well drained and not standing >in water or anything. Their stems seem sort of woody like. (but leaves, >etc are still green). Is this normal? I don't know much about growing them >but I like the flowers a lot! >Any suggestions? >Dennis My experience was that of the four different clematis vines I planted, only one bloomed during the second year, three bloomed during the third year, and now all of them bloom. I guess some of them just need time to develop a good root system. By the way, you may already know that clematis like cool roots and lots of sun for their leaves. -Alan Harder ash@math.ams.org The above commentary, which does not *even* represent the opinion of the American Mathematical Society, is sold by weight, not by volume. Some settling of the contents may have occurred during shipping. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn Sat Jul 24 12:31:39 EDT 1993 Article: 20130 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn From: dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Herbs and Spices Date: 21 Jul 1993 16:24:03 GMT Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences Lines: 11 Message-ID: <22jqj3$r09@morrow.stanford.edu> References: <1993Jul20.142251.14948@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul21.100109.11536@hemlock.cray.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pangea.stanford.edu In article <1993Jul21.100109.11536@hemlock.cray.com> dadams@cray.com writes: > >So what do you have to do to get black peppercorns to germinate? I was >un successful. > Black peppercorns are fermented or some such thing. It probably affects viability. Dawn From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!sprengt0664 Sat Jul 24 12:31:39 EDT 1993 Article: 20131 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!sprengt0664 From: sprengt0664@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Today's capsule portrait of Iowa (was Re: Rain in Iowa) Message-ID: <1993Jul21.114357.14980@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 Jul 93 11:43:57 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 12 Kay Klier, who happens to be a biology professor at my university (and whose class I'll be in this fall), has shared several jokes in this newsgroup about the currently waterlogged state of Iowa. Here's one that I saw in another newsgroup that I read: "Iowa: A place to row!" (One of our state mottoes is "A Place to Grow." Could this be a reference to gardening and/or agriculture?) Timothy J. Sprengeler Student, University of Northern Iowa From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!gumby!yale!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu!BETHA Sat Jul 24 12:31:40 EDT 1993 Article: 20132 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!gumby!yale!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu!BETHA From: BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu (Beth Anderson) Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: <16C12B16E.BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu> Sender: news@news.yale.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: yaleads.ycc.yale.edu Organization: Yale University References: <1993Jul20.185511.14956@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 93 12:36:53 EDT Lines: 10 In article <1993Jul20.185511.14956@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >> >Anyone need a plant taxonomist???] What is a plant taxonomist, anyway? Sounds interesting... From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!gumby!wmichgw!hooper Sat Jul 24 12:31:41 EDT 1993 Article: 20133 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!destroyer!gumby!wmichgw!hooper From: hooper@gw.wmich.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Smoke Tree question Message-ID: <1993Jul21.130657.10702@gw.wmich.edu> Date: 21 Jul 93 13:06:57 EST Organization: Western Michigan University Lines: 11 I have 2 smoke plants/trees. One of them need to be pruned and I was wondering if there is a "best" time to prune them. I don't have time to read this group since I'm to busy in my garden and reading Misc.consumers.house and Misc.rural. Please e-mail me direct: Hooper@gw.wmich.edu James C. Hooper Western Michigan University From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!utcsri!unicorn.eecg.toronto.edu!gfeygin Sat Jul 24 12:31:41 EDT 1993 Article: 20134 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!utcsri!unicorn.eecg.toronto.edu!gfeygin Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: gfeygin@unicorn.eecg.toronto.edu (Gennady Feygin) Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul21.133958.7959@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> Organization: Electrical and Computer Engineering, University of Toronto References: <1993Jul20.185511.14956@iscsvax.uni.edu> <16C12B16E.BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu> Date: 21 Jul 93 17:39:58 GMT Lines: 13 In article <16C12B16E.BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu>, BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu (Beth Anderson) writes: |> In article <1993Jul20.185511.14956@iscsvax.uni.edu> |> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: |> |> >> |> >Anyone need a plant taxonomist???] |> |> What is a plant taxonomist, anyway? Sounds interesting... Probably a person who comes up with new ways to tax plants and fruit therof. ;-)) Sorry couldn't resist. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!nih-csl!peter Sat Jul 24 12:31:42 EDT 1993 Article: 20135 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!nih-csl!peter From: peter@elsie.nci.nih.gov (Peter J. Wirth) Subject: Re: How can I get my lawn a bit greener? Message-ID: <1993Jul21.182516.5761@alw.nih.gov> Summary: greener lawns Sender: postman@alw.nih.gov (AMDS Postmaster) Organization: National Institutes of Health References: <1993Jul20.152533.12748@pbhyb.PacBell.COM> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 18:25:16 GMT Lines: 37 In article <1993Jul20.152533.12748@pbhyb.PacBell.COM>, armally@pbhyb.PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) writes: > In article nguyena@vnet.ibm.com (Tony Nguyen) writes: > >I would like to know how can I get a greener lawn. I already fertilize it > >about 2months ago with Scotts' Starter (new sod). Been watering very > >much but would like to get a healthier lawn. I live in Houston,TX...very > >hot. Any suggestion is appreciated. > > > >************************************************************* > >* Anthony Nguyen * Houston, TX * > >************************************************************* > Hi, > > Ammonium Sulphate will get your lawn green in 2 weeks after application and > good watering. Follow directions on the bag and do not exceed the > recommended amount as specified on the bag. Use a good spreader, I use > Ammonium Sulphate all the time on my lawn twice in the growing season and > once in the dormant season....and in between other fertilization. > > Good luck!!! Remember do not use more than the recommended amount it can > burn your lawn. > > > Arvind Mallya > > Arvind Mallya > > the recommended quantity > I agree with Kay K. The best thing you can do for your lawn is to establish a strong healthy root system. I have found that the best way to maintain a full healthy green lawn was the application in the spring of a slow release, low salt containing fertilizer such as Turf Assurance. This fertilizer contains IBDU, isobutylene diurea, and needs only to be applied twice a year (spring and fall).I usually supplement this application with an additional application of Milorganite (sp?) in mid June (D.C. area) followed by an application of "Roots", which is a solution of chelated iron, in late July (about now). Proper watering (before 10:00am) will yield the most envious lawn in the neighborhood. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!att!bigtop!zuckuss!seb1 Sat Jul 24 12:31:42 EDT 1993 Article: 20136 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!att!bigtop!zuckuss!seb1 From: seb1@dr.att.com (Sharon Badian) Subject: Re: couple of gardening questions.. Message-ID: Sender: news@bigtop.dr.att.com (Netnews Administration Login) Reply-To: seb1@dr.att.com Organization: Bell Labs, Denver, CO. References: <1993Jul19.175837.7141@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> <1993Jul20.142032.14947@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 17:53:51 GMT Lines: 18 In article <1993Jul20.142032.14947@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: |> In article <1993Jul19.175837.7141@porthos.cc.bellcore.com>, mma@bellcore.com () writes: |> > - I have two gardenia which are also doing nicely on |> > my deck. I don't have a whitefly problem yet with |> > them but when I do, what can I use on them? Something |> > organic is preferred (most of the commercial insecticide |> > state not to use on gardenias). |> |> Yellow sticky traps. Commercial or homemade. I have not had good success with these. I have whiteflies on my tomato plant. It's in a container on my patio. I finally resorted to pyrethins. Any guesses why they didn't work? I was using a commercial product. Maybe they weren't close enough? -- Sharon Badian AT&T Bell Labs - Denver seb1@dr.att.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae Sat Jul 24 12:31:43 EDT 1993 Article: 20137 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: Bug juice?! Does it work? Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <22f7vd$2pq@dorsai.dorsai.org> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 18:33:21 GMT Lines: 21 In article <22f7vd$2pq@dorsai.dorsai.org> dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) writes: >I read in my copy of Rodale's encyclopedia that you can make a solution of >squashed bugs and water and spray this on your plants to keep bugs similar to >the squashed ones away. This almost sounds like sympathetic magic to me but I >have seen stranger things! There is actually science behind it. It can work in at least two ways: (1) Some insects produce an 'alarm pheromone'. Being squashed is pretty alarming, so a solution of squashed bugs may repel others of the same kind. (2) Some of the squashed insects may be carrying insect diseases, so a solution of squashed bugs may also be a solution of insect pathogens, which can infect the next bug to chew a sprayed leaf. Haven't tried it myself - I haven't gotten a big enough infestation of anything (knock wood) except slugs. Slug juice, anyone? Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!att!bigtop!zuckuss!seb1 Sat Jul 24 12:31:43 EDT 1993 Article: 20138 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!att!bigtop!zuckuss!seb1 From: seb1@dr.att.com (Sharon Badian) Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: Sender: news@bigtop.dr.att.com (Netnews Administration Login) Reply-To: seb1@dr.att.com Organization: Bell Labs, Denver, CO. References: Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 18:27:27 GMT Lines: 22 In article , hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: |> |> In contrast, in the midwest, I see neighbors -- literally, |> next-door neighbors, neighboring towns, and neighboring states -- |> bending over backwards to help themselves and to help one another |> survive and maintain through the crisis, and I don't know that so much |> as a single federal nickle has made its way into Iowa yet after all |> these weeks. It really seems like the traditional midwest values of |> self-sufficiency and neighborliness have really come through. Quite a few federal nickels have made it to the Midwest. This weekend I read that Clinton was making it easier for Midwestern governors to get disaster relief. One of his Cabinet members was handing $20M checks to various governors. More are to follow. And, this comment is not meant to say that this is wrong. I think those folks need a lot of money and I'm perfectly willing to give it to them in the form of my taxes. -- Sharon Badian AT&T Bell Labs - Denver seb1@dr.att.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!wujek!kk Sat Jul 24 12:31:44 EDT 1993 Article: 20139 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!wujek!kk From: kk@wujek.durham.nc.us (Krzysztof Kozminski) Subject: Re: Gardenia pests Message-ID: Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 17:48:29 GMT References: <223jfiINN713@early-bird.think.com> <1993Jul15.224615.16831@megatek.com> <16C129837.BETHA@yaleads.cis.yale.edu> Organization: Relative Software, Inc. Lines: 40 In article <16C129837.BETHA@yaleads.cis.yale.edu> BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu (Beth Anderson) writes: >In article <1993Jul15.224615.16831@megatek.com> >redman@megatek.com (Tim Redfield) writes: > >>Sounds like scale to me. I usually find it with ants alongside. I >>believe you can use some really nasty chemicals to knock it out... >> >I had scale on my African Violets and my Aloe, and I tried dish soap and >alcohol several times, unsuccessfully. This stuff is apparently really hardy, >and hard to get rid of. I finally resorted to an "agent of death" - Ortho >makes a product that should get rid of it, but it takes several applications >over a period of time. I had a terrible infestation of scale on my kaffir lime plant a couple of weeks ago - and the advice received from the net was to use oil spray. I think I replied to all people who sent me messages, but in case I missed anybody: THANX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Gardens Alive carry SunSpray ultra-fine oil (from Sun Company, Inc. in Philadelphia, tel. 215-977-3000) that is safe to use on non-dormant plants - a single application took care of the pests which died, dried out, and disappeared within a week or two after spraying. Earlier attempts with soap/alcohol did not work reliably - they seemed to kill some immature scale only. After SunSpray, my plant is perfectly clean and happy now. Gardenias are listed as treatable in the brochure enclosed with the oil - for other plants you might want to check with the manufacturer. One quart is the smallest size Gardens Alive have and is *plentiful* (the stuff gets diluted a few tablespoons to a gallon of water before use). BTW, the main ingredient is paraffinic oil. It is supposed to be environmentally safe (and OK to use on edibles up to the harvest day) yet the warnings in the brochure are about as serious as I'd expect to see on a quart of botulin - does anybody know what's the deal? After all, it is supposed to choke the insects, not poison them... KK -- Kris Kozminski (kk@wujek.durham.nc.us) "Limit congressmen to two terms. One in office. One in jail." From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!ncube!russell Sat Jul 24 12:31:44 EDT 1993 Article: 20140 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!ncube!russell From: russell@ncube.com (Russell Randolph) Subject: Pond Liners and UV light Message-ID: Keywords: EPDM, pond Sender: usenet@ncube.com Nntp-Posting-Host: glacier Organization: nCUBE Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 19:11:20 GMT Lines: 15 I am going to use EPDM as a pond liner, and am wondering about how well you have to prevent direct sun from hitting it. One solution is to double up the EPDM around the edge of the pond. This way the sun will never hit the real liner. The plan is to have rocks cover as much as I can, but I'm sure there will still be some places where the sun gets through at times. On the other hand, if EPDM isn't bothered by the UV, I don't want to worry about this. Any thoughts? Russell Randolph nCUBE, Beaverton, Oregon russell@ncube.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Sat Jul 24 12:31:45 EDT 1993 Article: 20141 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Today's capsule portrait of Iowa (was Re: Rain in Iowa) Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 21 Jul 1993 19:11:29 GMT Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 9 Sender: bailey@butyng.bu.edu Message-ID: <22k4d1$mqg@news.bu.edu> References: <1993Jul21.114357.14980@iscsvax.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: butyng.bu.edu Oh-oh, Kay -- no secrets safe NOW! Your students (-to-be) are posting and we have spies for the Kay Klier mystique! (Unfortunately for this scheme, you are already very forthcoming and there probably aren't many "secrets" to reveal -- but we can speculate!) Sherry ;^) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat Jul 24 12:31:46 EDT 1993 Article: 20142 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: fig trees Message-ID: <1993Jul21.183336.26227@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <93201.101522ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 18:33:36 GMT Lines: 21 In article <93201.101522ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> writes: >All of this posting recently about figs has intrigued me. Should I plan to >start a fig tree, how many years from planting -> bearing? I'm currently near >Phoenix, but where else in the U.S. do they grow well? Sun or shade? Big >trees or little ones? If you buy an established tree, it should bear in a year or two. Ask your nurseryman. Figs like sun and heat, the more the merrier. I don't know about desert conditions, but they certainly thrive on the Gulf Coast and in Southern CA. In Northern CA, our tree sometimes doesn't ever ripen the fruit; I don't know whether day length or heat is the trigger for ripening. Some types are more susceptible to freezing than others, so ask your county agricultural agent for the best varieties for your area. Most figs are smallish trees with multiple trunks; they can be 25 feet tall but that should take awhile. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat Jul 24 12:31:46 EDT 1993 Article: 20143 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: short corn Message-ID: <1993Jul21.183750.26382@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 18:37:50 GMT Lines: 12 In article bonsai@netcom.com (Mark LaPolla) writes: >I am looking for a corn hybrid with very short stalks. The shortest I have >found is around 5 feet. I figure with close planting and little water they'll >grow even short. (This is part of my hybrid japanese garden.) My Early Sunglow topped out at between 3 and 4 feet. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!laidbak!ico!carnes Sat Jul 24 12:31:47 EDT 1993 Article: 20144 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!laidbak!ico!carnes From: carnes@ico.isc.com (Steve Carnes) Subject: Re: Fly Maggots & Compost Message-ID: <1993Jul21.153552.23065@ico.isc.com> Organization: Interactive Systems Corp., Boulder CO References: <1993Jul19.165938.2151@hsh.com> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 15:35:52 GMT Lines: 15 paul@hsh.com (Paul Havemann) writes: >> Reference: _Worms Eat My Garbage_ by Mary Appelhoff, Flower Press, 1982. > >A recent _Smithsonian_ magazine (June? May?) took a somewhat humorous >look at vermicasting; the author had some mixed successes even after >consulting this book. The part about the "worm crawl" (mass escape!) >was most amusing... The author may have consulted the book, but obviously didn't learn from it, as the wrong worms were used. The proper worms are very content to stay in the box -- I have probably over 20,000 worms, and have *never* seen one outside the box. It's in the garage, so a stray worm would be very apparent! -- Steve Carnes carnes@ico.isc.com uucp: {ncar,nbires}!ico!carnes "It's fun to have fun, but you have to know how." - Dr. Seuss From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!vm.cc.purdue.edu!MWORKMAN Sat Jul 24 12:31:47 EDT 1993 Article: 20145 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!vm.cc.purdue.edu!MWORKMAN From: MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu Subject: Carrots Message-ID: <16C12C9AD.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Sender: news@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (USENET News) Organization: Purdue University X-Newsreader: NNR/VM S_1.3.2 Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 19:20:29 GMT Lines: 4 How do I know when my carrots are ready to be pulled up? Thanks, Maggie From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:48 EDT 1993 Article: 20146 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: What's a taxonomist? (was rain in IA) Message-ID: <1993Jul21.151513.14987@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 Jul 93 15:15:13 -0600 References: <1993Jul21.133958.7959@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 30 In article <1993Jul21.133958.7959@jarvis.csri.toronto.edu>, gfeygin@unicorn.eecg.toronto.edu (Gennady Feygin) writes: > In article <16C12B16E.BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu>, BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu (Beth Anderson) writes: > |> In article <1993Jul20.185511.14956@iscsvax.uni.edu> > |> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > |> >Anyone need a plant taxonomist???] > |> > |> What is a plant taxonomist, anyway? Sounds interesting... > > Probably a person who comes up with new ways to tax plants and fruit therof. ;-)) Actually, we're the wicked folks who study plant evolution and hang Latin names on poor defenseless plants. But my family still has me confused with the IRS... ;-) "Modern" US usage would call us plant systematists. Hard for stutters to say. Of course, there's also a BIG debate among taxonomists/systematists as to the exact meanings of the two words. We seem to be equally divided into the camps: taxonomy = systematics systematics includes taxonomy taxonomy includes systematics taxonomy and systematics are entirely different things. Personally, I don't care what you call me... I just want to get on with my work! 8-) Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!theo!tstand Sat Jul 24 12:31:48 EDT 1993 Article: 20147 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!theo!tstand From: tstand@mcnc.org (Tena Standish) Subject: sunchokes Message-ID: <1993Jul21.202132.24666@mcnc.org> Sender: daemon@mcnc.org (David Daemon) Nntp-Posting-Host: robin.mcnc.org Organization: MCNC Center for Microelectronics, RTP, NC Distribution: usa Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 20:21:32 GMT Lines: 5 Is there a better time of year or season to dig sunchokes otherwise known as Jerusalem Artichokes? I have some planted and have not harvested them yet. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:49 EDT 1993 Article: 20148 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Herbs and Spices Message-ID: <1993Jul21.152050.14988@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 Jul 93 15:20:50 -0600 References: <1993Jul20.142251.14948@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul21.100109.11536@hemlock.cray.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 9 In article <1993Jul21.100109.11536@hemlock.cray.com>, dadams@cray.com (David Adams) writes: > So what do you have to do to get black peppercorns to germinate? I was > un successful. Seeds of many tropical plants, presumably including pepper, have to be fresh to germinate. Really, really fresh. Peppercorns are just too old when they get to us, betcha. Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:50 EDT 1993 Article: 20149 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Today's capsule portrait of Iowa (was Re: Rain in Iowa) Message-ID: <1993Jul21.152423.14989@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 Jul 93 15:24:23 -0600 References: <1993Jul21.114357.14980@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 15 In article <1993Jul21.114357.14980@iscsvax.uni.edu>, sprengt0664@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > Kay Klier, who happens to be a biology professor at my university (and whose > class I'll be in this fall), has shared several jokes in this newsgroup about > the currently waterlogged state of Iowa. Uh oh. Tim, I didn't know you were in my plant tax this fall... does this mean I'll have to quit making remarks about my students in this group? ;-) And it probably means I can't use the same bad jokes here and in class! The San Diego paper ran a cartoon that was reprinted in Newsweek: two gentlemen fishing in boats over a drowned farm: "What are you fishing for?" "Corn". Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!bonsai Sat Jul 24 12:31:50 EDT 1993 Article: 20150 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!bonsai From: bonsai@netcom.com (Mark LaPolla) Subject: Re: short corn Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] References: <1993Jul21.183750.26382@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 20:04:22 GMT Lines: 25 Kathleen Much (kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU) wrote: : In article bonsai@netcom.com (Mark LaPolla) writes: : >I am looking for a corn hybrid with very short stalks. The shortest I have : >found is around 5 feet. I figure with close planting and little water they'll : >grow even short. (This is part of my hybrid japanese garden.) : My Early Sunglow topped out at between 3 and 4 feet. : -- : -------------------------------------------------------------------- : Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU : CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 : Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 Thanks. Is this the little cobs or normal sized? That is, the tiny fancy cobs or the big sized ears? What about the little mini corn? Thanks, M. -- The theory gives the answers, not the theorist. -- Allen Newell (UTC:13) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Sat Jul 24 12:31:51 EDT 1993 Article: 20151 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Gardenia pests Message-ID: <1993Jul21.200417.27563@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <223jfiINN713@early-bird.think.com> <1993Jul15.224615.16831@megatek.com> <16C129837.BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 20:04:17 GMT Lines: 18 In article <16C129837.BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu> BETHA@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu (Beth Anderson) writes: >I had scale on my African Violets and my Aloe, and I tried dish soap and >alcohol several times, unsuccessfully. This stuff is apparently really hardy, >and hard to get rid of. I finally resorted to an "agent of death" - Ortho >makes a product that should get rid of it, but it takes several applications >over a period of time. Swabbing the leaves with alcohol on a cotton ball should get rid of scale. Be sure to get the underside, where the scale is. You might need three treatments a week apart to get all the bugs at the right part of their life cycle. This worked better for me than any spray, chemical or natural. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!bonsai Sat Jul 24 12:31:52 EDT 1993 Article: 20152 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!bonsai From: bonsai@netcom.com (Mark LaPolla) Subject: Re: Need help in concrete pond restoration Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] References: <1993Jul20.171428.11508@cronkite.ocis.temple.edu> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 20:09:27 GMT Lines: 33 The acid wash is for cleaning and whitening the concrete. We used to do that every year to our gunite pool. The sealers and such could possibly be replaced by your product. I don't have experience with it. But I wouldn't skip (1). M. Harold E. Klein (klein@astro.ocis.temple.edu) wrote: : Recently, I excavated a 5' diameter concrete pond (39" deep). It had been : filled in for at least 50 years. It appears that there are no cracks and : the pond holds water. While the surface appears to be in pretty good shape : it is uneven; some finishing cement is missing in spots. I'd like ultimately : to place fish and plants in the pond. A black coating has been suggested as : the appropriate finish. However, the steps that have been recommended seem : rather arduous: (1)a muriatic acid wash; (2) a masonry sealer; (3) a couple of : coats of acrylic primer; and (4) finally a couple of coats of special black : paint (designed for such purposes). : A POSSIBLE ALTERNATIVE??? : I ran across something called "Duroseal Acrylic Driveway Sealer" (which happens : to be black) at a home improvement center. This stuff is a concrete sealer and : waterproofing paint that is designed to be applied directly to cured concrete. I've called the company and they tell me that it is "environmentally safe." : It occured to me that I can kill four birds with one stone if I can use this : product alone. How does this sound? Is it feasible? I'd welcome any comments : :wq : -- The theory gives the answers, not the theorist. -- Allen Newell (UTC:13) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news Sat Jul 24 12:31:53 EDT 1993 Article: 20153 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news From: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey) Subject: Re: Pond Liners and UV light (long) Reply-To: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Organization: University of Western Ontario Distribution: na Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 20:47:33 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul21.204733.2056@julian.uwo.ca> References: Sender: news@julian.uwo.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: cupoftea.ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Lines: 106 In article russell@ncube.com (Russell Randolph) writes: >I am going to use EPDM as a pond liner, and am wondering about how well you >have to prevent direct sun from hitting it. One solution is to double up >the EPDM around the edge of the pond. This way the sun will never hit the >real liner. well, i've posted this before, maybe i'll keep it in an easily accessible file for future postings... Pond Liners and the Sun ----------------------- There are a number of reasons to keep the sun from shining on your pond liner. First off, liners are not particularly pretty, and secondly the sun can/will decay the liner over time. You have essentially two tools with which to hide the liner -- earth/stones and water. The first issue in hiding your liner is to create a level pond. Let's say that your pond is 10 feet long, and you have one end only a few inches lower than the other. If you were to use this without better leveling, then after filling you would have a minimum of 4 inches showing at the one end -- and since many pool owners keep the level down an inch or two, you have *half a foot* of liner showing -- not good. So the more level your pond is the better -- beg, borrow or buy a 4 foot contractors level, or strap a two foot level to a piece of straight, stiff wood and use that. The other issue in hiding your liner is how you finish the edges of the pond. Traditionally, ponds are finished as follows: the liner comes up out of the water, over the edge and flatish rocks are lain on top of the liner to hide the liner. The rocks overhang the edge to even better hide the liner, but this has never really hidden it to my eyes. (see figure 1) figure 1. traditional edge finishing XXXXXXXXXXXXXX <--- cap stone ground level ===========--------+ <--- gap showing liner |~~~~~~~ <--- water level \ \ <----- liner Two better approaches have been discovered by me this spring in the catalogues of Lee Valley Tools (Queensview Drive, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada) If they sourced these ideas from elsewhere, I've never seen them and they did not credit them. Approach one is how I did my pond. When you bring up the liner, tuck it under a course or two of bricks, and then back over the bricks. Finish with capstones. The two courses of bricks stay submerged in the water, and liner, being beneath and behind them is completely hidden from sight/sun. In my pond, the water must drop a good 6 inches before *starting* to show liner. see figure 2. figure 2. submerged bricks to hold liner XXXXXXXXXXXXXX <--- cap stone ground level ===========+----- | BBBB~~~~~~~ <--- water level | BBBB <--- bricks in courses (rows) +-------+ | \ \ <----- liner Approach two is how I might well do the next pond, but it requires a extra one to two feet of surface area. The Idea is to create a natural setting with pea gravel/sand and a bog around the edges. Somehow I suspect that the raccoons might find this very easy to disturb, but one never knows. incorporate a two foot wide, 6 inch deep all around the pond, in addition to any shelves you already have for shallow water plants. Bring the liner up and along this shelf and about 5 inches up the edge. Along the inside edge of this shelf, put in a course (row) or two of bricks -- these will hold the gravel in place. back fill the shelf with gravel/sand to fill in the shelf. Fill the pool until half of the gravel is submerged, giving a beach-like edge to the pond. shallow water plants can be planted in the gravel/sand, with or without pots. (figure three for those keeping count) figure 3. more natural finish ground level =======oooooo \ oooooo <--- gravel \ooooooooo~~~~~~ <--- water level \oooooooooo \ oooooooooBBBB \ooooooooBBBB <--- bricks holding gravel +-----------+ | \ \ <--- liner In both of these alternative, the liner is only visible through the water itself, still not the best in my opinion, but still a lot better than the gap of exposed liner around the edge of the pond. enjoy. -- Lance R. Bailey System/Network Manager Robarts Research Institute NeXT/email: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca box: Clinical Trials Resources Group fax: +1 519 663 3789 P.O. Box 5015, 100 Perth Dr. vox: +1 519 663 3787 x4108 London, Canada N6A 5K8 Did you hear about the blind bungie jumper?Scared the heck out of his dog --IYPB From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:55 EDT 1993 Article: 20154 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Today's capsule portrait of Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul21.164913.14994@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 Jul 93 16:49:13 -0600 References: <1993Jul21.114357.14980@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul21.152423.14989@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 13 In article <1993Jul21.152423.14989@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > The San Diego paper ran a cartoon that was reprinted in Newsweek: two > gentlemen fishing in boats over a drowned farm: "What are you fishing for?" > "Corn". Oops... nearly forgot to add. Mr. Kelly, the artist, doesn't know his corn morphology very well... he put naked ears where tassels belong. My colleague, Alan Orr, who works on tassel differentiation latched on to my xerox of the cartoon and sent it on to Hugh Iltis, who developed the idea of the Catastrophic Sexual Transmutation Theory to explain corn cobs... Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:56 EDT 1993 Article: 20155 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gardenia pests Message-ID: <1993Jul21.165514.14995@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 Jul 93 16:55:14 -0600 References: <223jfiINN713@early-bird.think.com> <1993Jul15.224615.16831@megatek.com> <16C129837.BETHA@yaleads.cis.yale.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 22 In article , kk@wujek.durham.nc.us (Krzysztof Kozminski) writes: > BTW, the main ingredient is paraffinic oil. It is supposed to be ^^^^^^^^^^^ AKA mineral oil. > environmentally safe (and OK to use on edibles up to the harvest day) > yet the warnings in the brochure are about as serious as I'd expect to > see on a quart of botulin - does anybody know what's the deal? After > all, it is supposed to choke the insects, not poison them... I suspect Lawyers At Work.... Some of the MSDS (material safety data sheets) are absolutely hilarious. Did you know if you spill Sucrose on yourself (that's chemspeak for table sugar), you should scrub vigorously under running water for at least half and hour and call for medical attention? My post-doc supervisor, married to a pediatrician, claimed he was going to lie down in the bathtub, dump the sugar bowl on himself, and call for medical attention next time he was feeling neglected... ;-) Kay Klier From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!bio-ccb4.stanford.edu!krswit Sat Jul 24 12:31:56 EDT 1993 Article: 20156 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!bio-ccb4.stanford.edu!krswit From: Kathy Rehm Switky Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Organic roses? Date: 21 Jul 1993 21:46:31 GMT Organization: Center for Conservation Biology, Stanford University Lines: 12 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22kdfn$4ul@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bio-ccb4.stanford.edu X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d16 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Wed, 21 Jul 93 14:47:05 GMT Hello, My new home came with some old beautiful roses...beasts whose care is foreign to me. After perusing my trusty Sunset Western Gardening Book and other sources I'm left thinking I "should" feed them a systemic plant food/insecticide. But pesticides of all sorts offend my sensibilities. If I stick to my morals, will I lose my roses? Thanks, Kathy krswit@leland.stanford.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!decwrl!decwrl!pacbell.com!armally Sat Jul 24 12:31:57 EDT 1993 Article: 20157 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!decwrl!decwrl!pacbell.com!armally From: armally@srv.PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) Subject: Re: How can I get my lawn a bit greener? Message-ID: <1993Jul21.211421.17941@PacBell.COM> Sender: news@PacBell.COM (Pacific Bell Netnews) Organization: Pacific * Bell References: <1993Jul20.152533.12748@pbhyb.PacBell.COM> <1993Jul20.142656.14949@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 21:14:21 GMT Lines: 30 In article <1993Jul20.142656.14949@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >In article <1993Jul20.152533.12748@pbhyb.PacBell.COM>, armally@pbhyb.PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) writes: >> In article nguyena@vnet.ibm.com (Tony Nguyen) writes: >>>I would like to know how can I get a greener lawn. I already fertilize it >>>about 2months ago with Scotts' Starter (new sod). Been watering very >>>much but would like to get a healthier lawn. I live in Houston,TX...very >>>hot. Any suggestion is appreciated. >> >> Ammonium Sulphate will get your lawn green in 2 weeks after application and >> good watering. Follow directions on the bag and do not exceed the >> recommended amount as specified on the bag. Use a good spreader, I use >> Ammonium Sulphate all the time on my lawn twice in the growing season and >> once in the dormant season....and in between other fertilization. > >IMHO, the wrong thing to do with new lawns, either seed or sod, is to use >a high nitrogen fertilizer. That encourages rapid top growth, and the roots >usually aren't well enough established to take the stress. Result is usually >a patchy or diseased lawn in a few years. > >I've not gardened in Texas, so things may be different down there, but here >I'd be using a dilute feed of something like 2-10-10 to try to get good roots, >and hence a better lawn. > >Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI Here is some additional information which is specific to the San Francisco bay area. My lawn was started from seed...the second year I started to fertilize it with Ammonium Sulphate and also other scott fertilizers. I have a green lawn in the summer..additionaly it needs less water compared to a lawn which I use only the scott fertilizer. I also regularly rake the lawn with a garden metal rake and plant new seed at the end of summer, and the first winter rains I have new grass shoots and a thicher dense r lawn. Hope this information helps!!! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!newsserver.sfu.ca!sfu.ca!atripp Sat Jul 24 12:31:57 EDT 1993 Article: 20158 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!cs.ubc.ca!newsserver.sfu.ca!sfu.ca!atripp From: atripp@kits.sfu.ca (Allyson Tripp) Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: Sender: news@sfu.ca Organization: Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, B.C., Canada References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> <13JUL199308510878@venus.tamu.edu> <22eogr$5rl@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 22:02:58 GMT Lines: 14 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:561 rec.gardens:20158 pgraham@herman.cs.uoguelph.ca (Paul Graham) writes: >A study that was done in conjunction with the research rated the 'hotness' >of different peppers and also the tolerance of certain people to the heat. >I think the top end of the spectrum was around 15000 units. Canadians from >British Columbia were about the wimpiest averaging a tolerance of about >5000, the North American average was about 6600 and Mexicans clocked in at >a staggering average of, if I remember correctly, 11,500 + !!! I should go back That explains why I've had such a hard time finding good Mexican restaurants since I've been living in Vancouver, BC! Allyson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:31:58 EDT 1993 Article: 20159 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: How big are your mandarins Message-ID: <1993Jul21.164321.23932@walter.cray.com> Lines: 10 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Date: 21 Jul 93 16:43:20 CDT Hello Texas and Florida gardeners. I have one simple question. If you are growing Satsuma mandarins (also called tangerines), How large are your green fruits now and when do you expect them. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!csn!utopia!kat Sat Jul 24 12:31:58 EDT 1993 Article: 20160 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!csn!utopia!kat From: kat@netwise.com (Kathleen Nosbisch) Subject: Tomato Plants Turning Yellow Message-ID: <1993Jul21.155523.11446@netwise.com> Organization: Netwise Inc. Boulder, CO Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 15:55:23 GMT Lines: 20 I transplanted four tomato plants (all different varieties) into my garden about a month ago. Until the last week or so (when I was on vacation) they've been doing fine. But now, one of the plants that has tiny tomatos on it is turning a bright yellow all over. It is real spindly-looking - doesn't have the healthy green foilage all over it like my other ones do. It looks like it's dying.... HELP! Does any one have any idea what could be causing this, and what I can do (organically) to save this plant so it can produce healthy tomatoes? Thanks in advance for any suggestions/help you can provide! kat -- *-------------------------------------------------------------------* Kathleen Nosbisch Netwise, Inc. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:31:59 EDT 1993 Article: 20161 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How can I get my lawn a bit greener? Message-ID: <1993Jul21.185914.14999@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 21 Jul 93 18:59:14 -0600 References: <1993Jul20.152533.12748@pbhyb.PacBell.COM> <1993Jul20.142656.14949@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul21.211421.17941@PacBell.COM> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 18 In article <1993Jul21.211421.17941@PacBell.COM>, armally@srv.PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) writes: > Here is some additional information which is specific to the San Francisco bay area. My lawn was started from seed...the second year I started to fertilize it with Ammonium Sulphate and also other scott fertilizers. I have a green lawn in the summer..additionaly it needs less water compared to a lawn which I use only the scott fertilizer. I also regularly rake the lawn with a garden metal rake and plant new seed at the end of summer, and the first winter rains I have new grass shoots and a thicher denser lawn. Hm. When I lived in Davis, the report from San Francisco was always "high of 65, low of 56, and 0.1 inch rain". That's great conditions for bluegrass, which is native to Siberia and bred for years for the cool damp climates of northern Europe. Gardening in Texas is likely to be a bit different, as is gardening here with the midwestern climatic extremes. Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!magnesium.club.cc.cmu.edu!eddie.mit.edu!uhog.mit.edu!news.media.mit.edu!vmb Sat Jul 24 12:32:00 EDT 1993 Article: 20162 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!magnesium.club.cc.cmu.edu!eddie.mit.edu!uhog.mit.edu!news.media.mit.edu!vmb From: vmb@media.mit.edu (V. Michael Bove Jr.) Subject: Nature's perfect fruit Message-ID: <1993Jul22.001540.15112@news.media.mit.edu> Sender: news@news.media.mit.edu (USENET News System) Organization: MIT Media Laboratory, Bramble Research Division Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 00:15:40 GMT Lines: 38 After literally a quarter-century of hands-on research, I can now pronounce that the ideal bramble fruit (IMNSHO) is -- the wineberry (Rubus phoenicolasius). Some reasons: 1) The plants, covered with fine reddish-purple spines, are more attractive than raspberries. One might almost plant these as ornamentals. 2) The fruits are a wonderful, glossy, transparent orangy-red. 3) The fruits are covered by a calyx until ripe, so insect nibblage tends not to be a problem. 4) They grow in damp shady places where I can't raise a raspberry worth a damn. 5) They seem immune to most bramble viruses. 6) The fuzzy canes repel borers. 7) They tip-root, if you want to increase your stock, but they don't send suckers into your lawn, if you don't want to. 8) I prefer their slightly tart taste to that of raspberries (and to heck with J. I. Rodale -- even if he was my grandfather's friend -- for calling them ``insipid''!). They make a mean frozen drink; indeed in my recent researches I have run across an unknown, fragmentary manuscript of Virgil in which he calls first among the advantages of the Elysian fields as a place to spend eternity that they have year-round wineberry daiquiris :-) A selected strain is sometimes available in the Henry Field's catalog, but I just gathered rooting cane tips from the wilds of Pennsylvania. So they're inexpensive, too... --Mike Bove From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!pbhyb!armally Sat Jul 24 12:32:00 EDT 1993 Article: 20163 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!pacbell.com!pbhyb!armally From: armally@pbhyb.PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) Subject: Re: How can I get my lawn a bit greener? Reply-To: armally@PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) Organization: Pacific * Bell, San Ramon, CA Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 23:49:17 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul21.234917.8852@pbhyb.PacBell.COM> References: <1993Jul20.152533.12748@pbhyb.PacBell.COM> <1993Jul21.182516.5761@alw.nih.gov> Lines: 42 In article <1993Jul21.182516.5761@alw.nih.gov> peter@elsie.nci.nih.gov (Peter J. Wirth) writes: >In article <1993Jul20.152533.12748@pbhyb.PacBell.COM>, armally@pbhyb.PacBell.COM (Arvind Mallya) writes: >> In article nguyena@vnet.ibm.com (Tony Nguyen) writes: >> >I would like to know how can I get a greener lawn. I already fertilize it >> >about 2months ago with Scotts' Starter (new sod). Been watering very >> >much but would like to get a healthier lawn. I live in Houston,TX...very >> >hot. Any suggestion is appreciated. >> > >> >************************************************************* >> >* Anthony Nguyen * Houston, TX * >> >************************************************************* >> Hi, >> >> Ammonium Sulphate will get your lawn green in 2 weeks after application and >> good watering. Follow directions on the bag and do not exceed the >> recommended amount as specified on the bag. Use a good spreader, I use >> Ammonium Sulphate all the time on my lawn twice in the growing season and >> once in the dormant season....and in between other fertilization. >> >> Good luck!!! Remember do not use more than the recommended amount it can >> burn your lawn. >> >> >> Arvind Mallya >> >I agree with Kay K. The best thing you can do for your lawn is to establish >a strong healthy root system. I have found that the best way to maintain a full >isobutylene diurea, and needs only to be applied twice a year (spring and fall).I usually supplement this application with an additional application of >neighborhood. My lawn was started from seed 9 years ago, the second year I used Ammonium sulphate and also scotts fertilizer at different times during the summer months. The lawn is evergreen (don't know if it is the envy of the neighbors though) and needs less frequent watering then if I don't use Ammonium Sulphate. In the fall, I rake the lawn with a metal garden rake (like the bamboo rake) and take out the dead grass, then seed it just before the winter rains. The grass grows denser with new shoots and I repeat this every year, I guess you just got to see to believe the grass which is greener on the other side of the fence. You don't need all those complex chemicals which you described. Arvind Mallya From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn Sat Jul 24 12:32:02 EDT 1993 Article: 20164 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn From: dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How can I get my lawn a bit greener? Date: 22 Jul 1993 01:14:02 GMT Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences Lines: 20 Message-ID: <22kpkq$7j6@morrow.stanford.edu> References: <1993Jul20.142656.14949@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul21.211421.17941@PacBell.COM> <1993Jul21.185914.14999@iscsvax.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: pangea.stanford.edu In article <1993Jul21.185914.14999@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > >Hm. When I lived in Davis, the report from San Francisco was always >"high of 65, low of 56, and 0.1 inch rain". Hah! That just goes to show what happens when they filter information through the local news band-pass filter! :-) When you live in the bay area itself, the weather report is always very consistent in the summer. "Coastal clouds, clearing by midday. High 65-85, low 55-70. Tomorrow the same." Note that the 65-85 is for ONE day, all within the SF viewing area. Drive half an hour south of the city, and the temperature changes by 15 degrees! Drive half an hour east, 20 degrees. There's no rain at all between June and September, most years. (This year was a little different.) This weekend, we will have a heat wave: highs 75-95. Back east, the meteorologists had to WORK for a living! (By the way, your report is fairly accurate for the winter, in SF proper.) Dawn From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!echristo Sat Jul 24 12:32:02 EDT 1993 Article: 20165 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!echristo From: echristo@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Elena A Christofides) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: spinach hates mulch Date: 22 Jul 1993 03:01:36 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 9 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22kvug$e9t@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: photon.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu I have an itsy bitsy question. My spinach plant (yes just one!) was doing superbly well while my lettuce was floundering in the heat. I bought this mulch that said peat moss, but it sure didn't look like peat moss. Anyway, I applied a nice thick layer around both plants. Result? The lettuce is as happy as a clam and my spinach committed suicide. What's going on here? Elena From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling Sat Jul 24 12:32:03 EDT 1993 Article: 20166 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: Tomato Plants Turning Yellow Message-ID: <1993Jul22.031410.22468@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: <1993Jul21.155523.11446@netwise.com> Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 03:14:10 GMT Lines: 19 In article <1993Jul21.155523.11446@netwise.com> kat@netwise.com (Kathleen Nosbisch) writes: > >I transplanted four tomato plants (all different varieties) into my >garden about a month ago. Until the last week or so (when I was on >vacation) they've been doing fine. But now, one of the plants that >has tiny tomatos on it is turning a bright yellow all over. It is >real spindly-looking - doesn't have the healthy green foilage all over >it like my other ones do. It looks like it's dying.... HELP! One of my Champions is doing this too. Is the one of the dread VFNMX... things that attacks tomato plants? It doesn't look like sunburn. It wasn't spindly before this happened, however. The leaves are a very uniform yellow, if that's any clue. The surrounding plants seem fine (cross fingers). On other fronts, my Brandywines have started producing possibly the Largest Tomato Flower Buds Ever Seen, so if the Dread Yellow Disease doesn't get them, and they actually set fruit (sigh), I may have some monster tomatoes from them. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!lhc!admii!hsdndev!pliny.harvard.edu!traite Sat Jul 24 12:32:03 EDT 1993 Article: 20167 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!lhc!admii!hsdndev!pliny.harvard.edu!traite From: traite@pliny.harvard.edu (Shirley Traite) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Food Dehydrators: Tool or Toy? Date: 21 Jul 1993 18:36:50 GMT Organization: Harvard University, Statistical & Data Analysis Center Lines: 4 Message-ID: <22k2c2$oh6@hsdndev.harvard.edu> References: <22i0fk$bqr@lll-winken.llnl.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: pliny.harvard.edu (Gee, maybe this weekend I'll make some jerky.....) ___ Shirley Traite From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!lhc!admii!hsdndev!pliny.harvard.edu!traite Sat Jul 24 12:32:04 EDT 1993 Article: 20168 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!lhc!admii!hsdndev!pliny.harvard.edu!traite From: traite@pliny.harvard.edu (Shirley Traite) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Food Dehydrators: Tool or Toy? Date: 21 Jul 1993 18:44:30 GMT Organization: Harvard University, Statistical & Data Analysis Center Lines: 17 Message-ID: <22k2qe$opp@hsdndev.harvard.edu> References: <22i0fk$bqr@lll-winken.llnl.gov> <22k2c2$oh6@hsdndev.harvard.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: pliny.harvard.edu Sorry about the last post. Something must of hiccupped. :) What I intended to post is: I got my food dehydrater last January (I think it's a Harvest. My husband bought for me at Lechmere's.) I have used it about 1/2 doz times so far. I've made jerky, (yum!), dried apples, dried bananas (both were dipped in pineapple juice first), and dried strawberries (no dipping needed). All were excellent. Drying time really varies with the humidity. (The longest was two days for me.) I doubt I'll use it to dry herbs tho, I really prefer to either air dry or freeze fresh herbs. (Gee, maybe this weekend I'll make some jerky.....) ___ Shirley Traite traite@sdac.harvard.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!newsflash.mitre.org!weiner.mitre.org!miale Sat Jul 24 12:32:04 EDT 1993 Article: 20169 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!newsflash.mitre.org!weiner.mitre.org!miale From: miale@weiner.mitre.org (Steven Miale) Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Date: 21 Jul 1993 19:49:02 GMT Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22k6je$4os@newsflash.mitre.org> References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> <13JUL199308510878@venus.tamu.edu> <22eogr$5rl@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: weiner.mitre.org Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:565 rec.gardens:20169 In article <22eogr$5rl@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> pgraham@herman.cs.uoguelph.ca (Paul Graham) writes: >I remember reading an interesting article in DISCOVER magazine a couple years >back that discussed the chemical in peppers that made them taste *hot*. It's called capsicum. The problem is that capsicum content isn't always accurate. For instance, I believe the ratings make habaneros look a dozen times hotter than jalepenos. I've been putting half a habenero on my tacos, and trust me, it isn't the same as six jalepenos :-) Steve From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!mcdhup!src4src!bluedg!FredMail Sat Jul 24 12:32:05 EDT 1993 Article: 20170 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!mcdhup!src4src!bluedg!FredMail From: philip@bluedg.linet.org (Philip Perlman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Transplanted Dogwood tree not doing to well.. Message-ID: <743155214.AA00364@bluedg.linet.org> Date: 20 Jul 93 03:52:06 GMT Sender: FredMail@bluedg.linet.org Lines: 13 Hello Bruce! On Tuesday July 13 1993, Bruce S. Winters was seen whispering to All: BSW> We transplanted a Dogwood tree this spring and it is not taking the move BSW> to well. Its about 20 feet tall. We moved it just before it bloomed. BSW> I've been watering it fathfuly but the leaves are curling up and some are BSW> brown around the edges. I haven't fertilized it yet except for the horse BSW> manure I mixed with the soil before moving it. It gets full sun all day. BSW> Any suggestions? Will it do better next year? That's a very large specimen to transplant unless you had commercial help via a huge tree spade. It's possible that it is just suffering from shock. Nothing much you can do but keep up the watering -- it's been very dry around here -- and pray. ttyl. /* Phil */ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!mcdhup!src4src!bluedg!FredMail Sat Jul 24 12:32:06 EDT 1993 Article: 20171 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!mcdhup!src4src!bluedg!FredMail From: philip@bluedg.linet.org (Philip Perlman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: poison ivy Message-ID: <743155214.AA00365@bluedg.linet.org> Date: 20 Jul 93 03:57:52 GMT Sender: FredMail@bluedg.linet.org Lines: 12 Hello Dominic! On Friday July 16 1993, Dominic S. Cusanelli was seen whispering to All: DSC> There might be something somewhere that will kill poison DSC> ivy - but it would probably be far too toxic to use safely DSC> on a yard where people/kids/pets are. I've found nothing DSC> short of digging up the stuff - roots and all - kills it. Another treatment is to mow the area where the ivy is. I am constantly battling it since my wife is affected by it whereas I'm not. Here is upper NY state, near Woodstock, it is extremely hardy and virulent. I pull it up, and cut all the vines that are attacking trees but with about 10 out of 25 acres infested with it, its basically a losing battle. I don't use poisons, but there are a bunch out there that will work such as Brush Bgone, etc. I don't recommend them but if it's an emergency perhaps that is w hat you should try. ttyl. /* Phil */ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!mcdhup!src4src!bluedg!FredMail Sat Jul 24 12:32:06 EDT 1993 Article: 20172 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!mcdhup!src4src!bluedg!FredMail From: philip@bluedg.linet.org (Philip Perlman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: poison ivy Message-ID: <743155214.AA00366@bluedg.linet.org> Date: 20 Jul 93 04:02:58 GMT Sender: FredMail@bluedg.linet.org Lines: 13 Hello Thomas! On Friday July 16 1993, Thomas Bjorkman was seen whispering to All: >> Any suggestions how to get rid of this stuff? >> I'm looking for recommendations on what will kill the plants. TB> A housemate once eradicated a big patch with goats. They were very TB> effective, but in the end were a bigger bother than the poison ivy. TB> (Be suspicious if someone offers you free goats!) Interesting comment since I was thinking of getting goats for other reasons. Are the that much of a bother? I was going to fence them in with an electric fence in an area that has become overgrown and see what they could do. Any tips will be appreciated. ttyl. /* Phil */ From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:32:07 EDT 1993 Article: 20173 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 21 Jul 93 18:22 PDT Subject: Re: CITRUS IN DC Message-ID: <1453300279@igc.apc.org> References: <1993Jul19.141455.20612@walter.cr> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 10 If the fruit are less than 3-5 inches apart, you may want to thin them. (I know it hurts you more than it hurts the tree.) They will grow more, and will even grow and color up when you take them inside. Don't leave them out if it's going to be less than 30 degrees F at night. My Ponderosa sets fruit several times a year and almost always ripens the later fruit indoors, and I live in Philly. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:32:07 EDT 1993 Article: 20174 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 21 Jul 93 18:08 PDT Subject: Re: hyacinth beans in Massachusetts Message-ID: <1453300276@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 6 You didn't say when you planted them. Try planting them when you first can plant corn and beans in your zone. Here in Phila it's around the end of April. Kay's right about the N. When I tried planting beans on my trellis after peas, I got humongus yard long bean vines that took over the universe, but no yard longs. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:32:08 EDT 1993 Article: 20175 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 21 Jul 93 18:25 PDT Subject: Re: double-grafted fruit trees? Message-ID: <1453300280@igc.apc.org> References: <22f6lu$agf@morrow.stanford.edu> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 4 We have a 4-grafted Asian pear in our community garden, and it's terrific. Not only that, but since we have several varieties on the one tree, we don't have to have another to pollinate. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:32:08 EDT 1993 Article: 20176 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 21 Jul 93 18:11 PDT Subject: Re: Filipendula -Plant I.D. Message-ID: <1453300277@igc.apc.org> References: <26777@mindlink.bc.ca> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 5 I think barm is like malted barley, but what part of the Filipendula does one use: flowers, roots, leaves? Mine is taking over the universe, so any use would be welcome...even strewing. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:32:09 EDT 1993 Article: 20177 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 21 Jul 93 18:14 PDT Subject: Re: fig trees Message-ID: <1453300278@igc.apc.org> References: <93201.101522ICSAA@asuacad.bitnet> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 7 It's actually liable to fruit the year after you plant a cutting. It may fruit the first year if you buy a tree that's leafed out. We grow them in full sun to part shade in Phila. You may need to shade yours out there. I'd ask my friendly local Coop Extension agent to be sure. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:32:10 EDT 1993 Article: 20178 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 21 Jul 93 17:41 PDT Subject: Re: Banana Trees Message-ID: <1453300271@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 13 Actually, you have two choices. You can bring them in and carry them over in a warm room (70 degrees F) or on a heating cable in a cooler room, or you can cut them halfway down the stem and keep them in a cool cellar or simmilar storage area. They will start leafing out again when you bring them into the warm. A couple of our community gardeners had access to a warm greenhouse. They kept their bananas there during the winter and actually got bananas. If you spray the bananas with gibberelic acid in the spring when you take them out of the house or cellar, you may also get a crop. There's a guy in northern Illinois who grows litteraly hundreds of bananas, cuts them back for winter storage, hits them with gba in the spring and gets fruit. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:32:10 EDT 1993 Article: 20179 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 21 Jul 93 17:49 PDT Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Message-ID: <1453300272@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 12 Fava beans (Vicia faba) are cool weather beans that can be planted when you plant peas and potatoes and such. They are called broad beans by the English, who grow many many varieties. You can harvest them at the dry bean stage or when you can just see the beans in the pods. If you take them green, you miss the papery envelope which is annoying to say the least. In Iran they shell them out steam or boil them briefly and sprinkle them with sumac powder, ground up sumac berries which taste lemony and nice. The Lebanese serve them at room temperature in a sauce of lemon, garlic and parsley. Yum! I think they use cooked dried favas, and there usually the small kind: about fingernail size, but I don't know the variety name. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:32:11 EDT 1993 Article: 20180 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 21 Jul 93 17:55 PDT Subject: Re: Fruit Trees Message-ID: <1453300273@igc.apc.org> References: <1993Jul20.164540.1@tesla.njit.ed> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 11 Two sources I've found good are: Stark Bros. Louisiana, MO 63353-0010 1-800-325-4180 J.E. Miller Nurseries Canandaigua, NY 14424 1-800-828-9630 It's always a good idea to use a nursery in your own zone or in a northerly one. Libby , From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:32:11 EDT 1993 Article: 20181 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 21 Jul 93 18:02 PDT Subject: Re: eggplants: when to pick Message-ID: <1453300274@igc.apc.org> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 11 Well, you could ask the wonderful people in your very own hort. dept., but in general they should have good size for the variety and, if purple, shiney skin. White and lavender ones tend to have matte skins, so just take them when they're 5 or 6 inches long, except for the little white ones which should be taken when they're about 2-3 inches long. If you let purple ones go too long, they begin to get yellowish and dull no matter whether they're small like 'Little Fingers', long like the Japanese sorts or more or less round and fat like the American and Italian sorts. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Sat Jul 24 12:32:12 EDT 1993 Article: 20182 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 21 Jul 93 18:04 PDT Subject: Re: sunchokes Message-ID: <1453300275@igc.apc.org> References: <1993Jul21.202132.24666@mcnc.org> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 4 They usually don't start tuber initiation until fall after flowering. If you mulch them well, you can dig them all winter. Libby From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!nstn.ns.ca!dragon.acadiau.ca!admin.acadiau.ca!cathy Sat Jul 24 12:32:12 EDT 1993 Article: 20183 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!nstn.ns.ca!dragon.acadiau.ca!admin.acadiau.ca!cathy From: cathy@admin.acadiau.ca (CATHY MORINE-COLLINS) Subject: terrible gardening year Message-ID: Lines: 32 Sender: news@dragon.acadiau.ca Nntp-Posting-Host: 131.162.34.41 Organization: Acadia University Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 13:00:27 GMT Lines: 32 Hi, Is anyone out there having a terrible gardening year? Last year I started gardening, had a great year and enjoyed it. This year I must have every problem in the world. First I had spittle bug, not real hazardous but ugly. Then my plants were being eaten by what??? I try to use organic pesticides. First I put earwig bait around. Didn't seem to work. Then I sprayed Rotedone(sp), but it rained and I have to get some more. People kept saying I prob had slugs. I recently put some stuff around for this, waiting to see what happens. Problem is no bugs can be seen. I have a saskatoon berry bush, that has had some sort of mothy thing hanging around it. I do have a very good book on insect identification etc that I check almost daily. Last weekend I put some bark around a few bushes and some animal dug that away from the hostas, which is also being eaten. The weeds are growing like crazy and even they are being eaten. I've been tempted to give up, but I WON'T. I hate to kill anything but I'm reaching the point of saying I'm going to get those things no matter what!! I must say things seem to be easing off a bit... here's hoping. cathy From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!cusanell Sat Jul 24 12:32:13 EDT 1993 Article: 20184 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys!cusanell From: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic S. Cusanelli) Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Message-ID: <39874@oasys.dt.navy.mil> Date: 22 Jul 93 12:22:54 GMT References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> <22k6je$4os@newsflash.mitre.org> Reply-To: cusanell@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Dominic Cusanelli) Followup-To: alt.folklore.herbs Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 12 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:566 rec.gardens:20184 One's perception of the hottness of a pepper is totally dependant on how your palette reacts to different types of capsicum. I think now 6 varieties of capsicum are known. Each person percieves them differently. Jalapenos have all 6 varieties present in the fruit - so some find them very hot! For me, I can eat jalapenos no problem. BUT, when I cut them up the aroma can cause me to have caughing fits, and irritates my throat. Other peppers don't seen to bother me this way. Its all in the nature of the beast! ...Dom From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!da_bearz!mann Sat Jul 24 12:32:14 EDT 1993 Article: 20185 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!da_bearz!mann From: mann@da_bearz (Todd Mann SE Northern IL) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: White Spots on Cucumbers and squash Date: 22 Jul 1993 13:26:14 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Itasca, IL Lines: 19 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22m4hmINNiu2@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> Reply-To: todd.mann@central.sun.com NNTP-Posting-Host: da_bearz.central.sun.com Every year, as the season progresses, I seem to get white spots on my cucumber and squash plant leaves then the leaves turn yellow and die. What causes this? Is it a fungizide or a bug of somesort? Any and all help is appreciated. BTW, I live in the Chicago area and the climate is rather wet. Also I have a splinkler system in my garden. -- Thanks -------------- Todd Mann SE (708) 285-7562 x47562 | SunSoft | EMAIL Two Piece Place | "Reach Out and aggravate someone" Suite 1500 | Itasca, IL 60143 | todd.mann@sunbird.central.sun.com | From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!lehigh.edu!den0 Sat Jul 24 12:32:14 EDT 1993 Article: 20186 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!lehigh.edu!den0 From: den0@lehigh.edu (Dean E. Nelson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pond Liners and UV light (long) Message-ID: Date: 22 Jul 93 13:28:42 GMT References: <1993Jul21.204733.2056@julian.uwo.ca> Sender: usenet@Lehigh.EDU Distribution: na Organization: Lehigh University Computing Center Lines: 19 Nntp-Posting-Host: 128.180.3.20 In article <1993Jul21.204733.2056@julian.uwo.ca> zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey) writes: >The first issue in hiding your liner is to create a level pond. Let's say that >your pond is 10 feet long, and you have one end only a few inches lower than >the other. If you were to use this without better leveling, then after filling >you would have a minimum of 4 inches showing at the one end -- and since many >pool owners keep the level down an inch or two, you have *half a foot* of >liner showing -- not good. So the more level your pond is the better -- beg, >borrow or buy a 4 foot contractors level, or strap a two foot level to a >piece of straight, stiff wood and use that. Or, you can purchase a length of plastic tubing and fill it with water. Put one end of the tube vertical at one end of the pond, and hold the other end of the tube vertical at the other end of the pond. The level of the water at both ends are equal. This kind of level is very handy if you don't have a transit and need to make things level over a distance. Dean Nelson From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!walter!porthos!sll@bellcore.com Sat Jul 24 12:32:15 EDT 1993 Article: 20187 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!rutgers!walter!porthos!sll@bellcore.com From: sll@bellcore.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Wheeping Cherry tree troubles - help! Message-ID: <1993Jul22.143210.28091@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> Date: 22 Jul 93 14:32:10 GMT Sender: netnews@porthos.cc.bellcore.com (USENET System Software) Reply-To: sll@bellcore.com Organization: Bellcore Lines: 45 I posted a while back concerning my ailing wheeping cherry and got some advice - but it seems to be doing worse. Here's the situation. I live in New Jersey, zone 6, where it has been very warn and dry this spring and summer. I bought a 6' wheeping cherry from a nursery in early April, it was balled and burlaped with leaf and flower buds on it at the time. I didn't plant it for about a month, but watered almost every day to keep the roots moist - and it got full afternoon sun. I planted it, after cutting the burlap from around the trunk, in good top soil and peat moss with the root ball being about 2" below the surface then mulched it, and continued to water it often. The floweres bloomed and faded quickly, and the leave developed some, but they stayed very small. In mid June, the small leaves started to turn brown. I got different advice, such as, I planted it too deep; watered too much causing root rot; keep watering cause the energy is going into the roots; just in shock. I waited a couple of weeks, watering less often, but the leaves continued to turn brown and started falling off. I decided to dig it up and look at the condition of the roots, and then replant it not so deep. Not being an expert, I didn't know what to expect. The soil was moist right to the bottom, but not sopping. The roots didn't appear to be doing well - they were only about 6-8" long and stalk like (Is this how they should be for a 6' tree?). And the burlap was not to be found (does that break down that quickly normally?). I replanted it so the area between the trunk and root top is just under the soil surface, then mulched on top, watered well. They next day I gave it Ortho's start-up product, as recommened on the package. I have been watering about every 4 days and check when I water that the soil is moist 6" down (as Kay has suggested to folks). Finally to my questions! How long until I should expect to see new leaf growth? (There is currently NO leaves on this tree, but if I scratch the bark there is still green) Should I re-apply start-up? If so when? When do you call it quits on a tree? (As you can probably tell, I want to save this tree!) Is full afternoon sun too much for a wheeping cherry? Thanks for your help - Sharon From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!utcsri!utgpu!bae Sat Jul 24 12:32:15 EDT 1993 Article: 20188 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!utcsri!utgpu!bae From: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 14:50:09 GMT Lines: 26 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:20188 rec.food.cooking:53383 In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > >What does the bean look/taste like? >How do you harvest it? >How do you cook it? I like to eat them in a green-shelled state. When they are small, they are sometimes very sweet, and I eat them raw. I cook them when they are full sized but not starting to dry yet. They come in various sizes, but in general they are large and flat. Favas as a green vegetable are popular in Europe. In the North, e.g. Britain and Holland they are called 'broad beans' and grown as a summer crop, planted in early spring, and in Italy they are planted in fall and harvested in January, and also planted in January and eaten in April and May. They are grown for animal forage in Italy as well. The pods are large and spongy. They are said to be edible when small, but I haven't tried this. Favas are extremely cold hardy. They are also the original bean of Europe. References to beans that pre-date European contacts with the New World refer to favas. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!corwin!james Sat Jul 24 12:32:16 EDT 1993 Article: 20189 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!corwin!james From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Sender: news@rchland.ibm.com Message-ID: <1993Jul22.142930.10300@rchland.ibm.com> Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 14:29:30 GMT Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM References: <1993Jul14.174734.30867@rchland.ibm.com> <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: corwin.rchland.ibm.com Organization: IBM Rochester Lines: 44 In article , os2user@brdiller.houston.ibm.com (Barry Diller) writes: |> My wife and I make salsa and spaghetti sauce from my tomatoes. We've used a |> hot water bath to seal our sauces in mason jars, and so far everything has |> turned out well. I mean, we're still alive :-) after eating from some jars that |> we canned 8 - 9 months previously. |> |> Question 1: How can I tell if my salsa or spaghetti sauce is acidic enough for |> hot water bath canning? Does someone sell litmus paper for this purpose, or |> are there any rules-of-thumb I can go by? |> |> Question 2: Assuming my spaghetti sauce is acidic enough for hot water bath |> canning, can I get into trouble if I add sugar to make the sauce sweeter? I have to be honest about this. Most people are more anal retentive about canning than I am. I have found over the years that home canned goods have a wonderful way of telling you when they are bad. They look bad, smell bad, bloat outwards, ... I have found that canning is easy and as far as I am concerned, the final product is as safe as anything you could buy. Things I have canned using hot water bath. (Just for background) jellies and jams (grape, strawberry, ground cherry, peach, raspberries, ...) saurkraut fruit juices whole tomatoes BBQ sauce V8 tomato juice pickles (onions, watermellon rind, cucumbers, green beans, peppers, okra) salsa (sweet, hot, sour) chickens (8 roosters) peaches apple butter apple sauce pears pear sauce cherry pie filling corn, greenbeans (but I perfer freezing) and there must be a million things I am missing. -- James White From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!uunet!tcsi.tcs.com!agate!overload.lbl.gov!ux1.lbl.gov!atchley Sat Jul 24 12:32:17 EDT 1993 Article: 20190 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!uunet!tcsi.tcs.com!agate!overload.lbl.gov!ux1.lbl.gov!atchley From: atchley@ux1.lbl.gov (Marv Atchley) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: short corn Message-ID: <22mbc0$213@overload.lbl.gov> Date: 22 Jul 93 15:22:40 GMT References: <1993Jul21.183750.26382@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Reply-To: atchley@ux1.lbl.gov (Marv Atchley) Organization: Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory Lines: 20 NNTP-Posting-Host: ux1.lbl.gov In article <1993Jul21.183750.26382@casbs.Stanford.EDU> kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) writes: >In article bonsai@netcom.com (Mark LaPolla) writes: >>I am looking for a corn hybrid with very short stalks. The shortest I have >>found is around 5 feet. I figure with close planting and little water they'll >>grow even short. (This is part of my hybrid japanese garden.) > >My Early Sunglow topped out at between 3 and 4 feet. > >-- I'm surprised no one mentioned that new variety of corn named "Ross Perot" - its short, but has big ears. (..sorry..) After years of modest but tasty production from Silver Queen, I planted (late) some Country Gentleman this year. The stalks are over 8' and finally showing tassels. No taste test yet. My garden is at 2000' elevation near St. Helena, and features a solar-powered birdbath. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!corwin!james Sat Jul 24 12:32:17 EDT 1993 Article: 20191 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!corwin!james From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul22.145911.9217@rchland.ibm.com> Date: 22 Jul 93 14:59:11 GMT References: <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com> <1993Jul15.154544.7354@news.uiowa.edu> <1993Jul16.123039.14846@iscsvax.uni.edu> Sender: news@rchland.ibm.com Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com Organization: IBM Rochester Lines: 38 Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM Nntp-Posting-Host: corwin.rchland.ibm.com In article <1993Jul16.123039.14846@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: |> sweiger@sequent.com (Mark Sweiger): |> > So how wet is it in Iowa? Are the gardens that aren't underwater alright? |> |> |> Driving into work today, I saw a lawn sign: |> |> _____________________ |> |> Ark kits |> 4 sale |> |> 1-800-NOAH |> |> ______________________ |> |> The 30 and 60 day extended forecasts came in today: cooler and wetter than |> normal for both periods. |> |> And it's raining again today. |> |> Very little of the [remaining] corn has tasseled yet. |> |> Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI |> |> (Water: Free for hauling. Any quantity.) |> You have my sympathies. We get the water first here in Rochester Minnesota, and then send it down the Mississippi to you. They are forcasting another 4 inches over the weekend. I have come to the conclusion that we have never had average weather. We just have extremes that look good when you average them together. -- James White From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!corwin!james Sat Jul 24 12:32:18 EDT 1993 Article: 20192 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!corwin!james From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Message-ID: <1993Jul22.150615.18524@rchland.ibm.com> Date: 22 Jul 93 15:06:15 GMT References: <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com> <2275s3$kcm@meaddata.meaddata.com> Sender: news@rchland.ibm.com Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com Organization: IBM Rochester Lines: 18 Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM Nntp-Posting-Host: corwin.rchland.ibm.com In article , tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) writes: |> Barb Bruns (barb@meaddata.com) wrote: |> |> : By the way, I find it interesting that of the 7 canning experts who posted |> : replies, 5 were men, and 2 women. Is this a non-sexist group, or what?! |> |> Well, Kay is the expert, I think. I wouldn't claim to be that. And |> my wife taught me how to can tomatoes. Besides, it was her canner, anyway. |> :-) My wife was never greatly interested in canning, and since I raise a 4,100 sq ft garden, I picked it up. I also enjoy wine and beer making. Is there anyone else out there (besides me) that has made marshmellows? -- James White From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling Sat Jul 24 12:32:19 EDT 1993 Article: 20193 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Message-ID: <1993Jul22.154900.21887@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: <1993Jul20.204543.29697@adobe.com> Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 15:49:00 GMT Lines: 30 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:20193 rec.food.cooking:53388 In article <1993Jul20.204543.29697@adobe.com> kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) writes: >In article hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: >> >>Can someone tell me what fava beans are? I've heard of them vaguely >...>How do you cook it? > >Fava beans are big in Arab cookery, esp. Egyptian where they form the >basis of a classic dish whose name I can't quite remember. I'll look thru >my cookbooks and post a recipe. Adapted from "Egyptian Cookery: A Practical Guide" by Samia Abdennour: Fool Midamess Place 2 cups dry fava beans and (opitonal) 1/2 cup lentils in a large pot and cover with three times their volume in water. Bring to a boil, cover tightly, and simmer over a very low heat for 6-9 hours. Alternatively, soak overnight and cook over a higher heat for about an hour. If you have to add more water during cooking, be sure to use boiling water; cold water will cause the beans to change taste. Drain and mash the beans with 5-6 tablespoons olive or corn oil. Add any or all of crushed garlic, a grated onion, a chopped tomato, a couple of tablespoons of lemon juice, and some mint. Fool is always eaten with bread, and other accompaniments are hardboiled eggs, onions soaked in vinegar, and pickles. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!pirates!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!langston.cs.utk.edu!langston Sat Jul 24 12:32:19 EDT 1993 Article: 20194 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!pirates!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!langston.cs.utk.edu!langston From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Fruit Trees Date: 22 Jul 1993 16:10:19 GMT Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee Lines: 65 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22me5bINN9rf@CS.UTK.EDU> References: <1993Jul20.164540.1@tesla.njit.ed> <1453300273@igc.apc.org> Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu libby goldstein writes: > Two sources I've found good are: > Stark Bros. Louisiana, MO 63353-0010 1-800-325-4180 > J.E. Miller Nurseries Canandaigua, NY 14424 1-800-828-9630 not been my experience their catalogs may look flashy, but the only trees i've ever bought from such homeowner-oriented outfits turned out to be decidedly inferior to that provided me by commercial growers i'm not saying these starks-millers-hastings-type guys don't sell trees that fruit -- but in my experience the vigor was relatively poor, you had to pester their horticulturalist to determine the rootstock ("semidwarf" doesn't cut it on apples), and the incidence of bacterial canker was pretty awful on stone fruit will append an old posting of mine on this subject -- i am now backing off on ny state coop though (they've had some shipping problems lately) happy growing -- mike langston department of computer science, university of tennessee ------ old rec.gardens posting of mine follows ------ IMHO, commercial growers generally provide a much higher-quality product than you'll find at your local nursery -- and yes, most commercial growers will sell singles some suppliers i particularly like (in alphabetical order): c&o (wa) 800-232-2636 -- good apples chestnut hill (fl) 800-669-2067 -- dunstan chestnuts and kaki persimmons cumberland valley (tn) 615-668-4153 -- good peaches haley (tn) 615-597-7333 -- good peaches hilltop (mi) 800-253-2911 -- good apples johnson (ga) 404-276-3187 -- good apples lawson (ga) 404-893-2141 -- good apples ny state testing coop (ny) 315-787-2205 -- excellent fruit stock starks commercial (ar) 800-752-8442 -- good apples womacks (tx) 817-893-6497 -- my favorite pecan supplier some suppliers that are roundly recommended (in alphabetical order): adams county (pa) 717-677-8105 -- fruit ambergs (ny) 716-526-5405 -- fruit bass (ms) 800-424-5238 -- pecans columbia basin (wa) 509-787-4411 -- fruit flowerwood (ga) 800-862-4597 -- fruit may (wa) 509-453-8219 -- fruit meyer (or) 503-634-3076 -- fruit nolin river (ky) 502-369-8551 -- hardy nuts protree (ca) 415-634-2191 -- fruit treeco (or) 503-634-2209 -- fruit van wells (wa) 509-663-8189 -- fruit yakima valley (wa) 509-966-0410 -- fruit i do not recommend outfits who aim their products at the homeowner -- this includes fields, hastings, millers, etc -- in my limited experience with them, i've found their reliabilty and products left much to be desired (note that starks commercial is distinct from the starks backyard line) -- order from several different sorts of growers and perhaps you'll reach the same conclusion From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!isuvax.iastate.edu!TNEZ3 Sat Jul 24 12:32:20 EDT 1993 Article: 20195 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!isuvax.iastate.edu!TNEZ3 From: tnez3@isuvax.iastate.edu (april ammons) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gardenia pests Message-ID: Date: 22 Jul 93 15:53:08 GMT References: <223jfiINN713@early-bird.think.com> <1993Jul15.224615.16831@megatek.com> <16C129837.BETHA@yaleads.cis.yale.edu> ,<1993Jul21.165514.14995@iscsvax.uni.edu> Sender: news@news.iastate.edu (USENET News System) Reply-To: tnez3@isuvax.iastate.edu Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa Lines: 24 In article <1993Jul21.165514.14995@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: >In article , kk@wujek.durham.nc.us (Krzysztof Kozminski) writes: >> BTW, the main ingredient is paraffinic oil. It is supposed to be > ^^^^^^^^^^^ AKA mineral oil. > >> environmentally safe (and OK to use on edibles up to the harvest day) >> yet the warnings in the brochure are about as serious as I'd expect to >> see on a quart of botulin - does anybody know what's the deal? After >> all, it is supposed to choke the insects, not poison them... > >I suspect Lawyers At Work.... Some of the MSDS (material >safety data sheets) are absolutely hilarious. Did you know if you >spill Sucrose on yourself (that's chemspeak for table sugar), you >should scrub vigorously under running water for at least half and >hour and call for medical attention? The last time OSHA came through our lab, we were reprimanded for not having the proper MSDS for Elmer's glue and rubber cement! You know, the stuff we send kids off to school with all the time? And we have to attend training courses on the use of pesticides available to anybody at the local K-Mart. Not that it isn't a bad idea, but it's very inconsistent. April From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Sat Jul 24 12:32:21 EDT 1993 Article: 20196 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Message-ID: Date: 22 Jul 93 15:53:14 GMT References: <1993Jul20.204543.29697@adobe.com> Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T Lines: 27 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:20196 rec.food.cooking:53395 > (lines omitted, re fava beans) > >Those folks who are taking a Mono-amine oxidase inhibitor (MAOI) drug for >blood pressure or depression, or those who are tryptophan sensitive should >avoid Fava beans completely. > Fava beans are also poisonous to some persons of Mediteranean ancestory. These are persons who inherited a special genetic "trick" for fighting malaria. But just as the sickle cell gene fights malaria but also causes problems, this trait has its drawbacks--causing (or being linked to) color blindness, and causing sensativity to fava beans (this sensativity is called, I think, "thalosimia"). (The ancients thought fava beans CAUSED color-blindness. Not so.) By the way, if you see any "bean" references in pre-Columbus literature or history, this is what they mean. Regular type beans came from America. For example, this is the bean that Pythagoreans refused to eat, thinking they held human souls. In fact, Pythagorus himself is reported to have died because of fava beans--not from eating them, but because he refused to cross a bean field to flee pursuers when his town was sacked. (Kay. Please tell them I'm not making this up.) Dave Daulton From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Sat Jul 24 12:32:21 EDT 1993 Article: 20197 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Organic roses? Message-ID: Date: 22 Jul 93 16:15:56 GMT References: <22kdfn$4ul@morrow.stanford.edu> Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T Lines: 19 In article <22kdfn$4ul@morrow.stanford.edu> Kathy Rehm Switky writes: >Hello, >My new home came with some old beautiful roses...beasts whose >care is foreign to me. After perusing my trusty Sunset Western Gardening >Book >and other sources I'm left thinking I "should" feed them a systemic >plant food/insecticide. But pesticides of all sorts offend my >sensibilities. >If I stick to my morals, will I lose my roses? > My advice--stick to your morals, and if you loose the roses, replace them with hardier varieties. I do fertililize my roses (not much--since I dug in mucho composted cow manure before I planted them). But I never use insecticides, and my roses are doing great. Of course, I am growing antiques, not the fussier hybrid teas. I get aphids (my roses, that is) for a few weeks every spring, but they are quickly gobbled up by the good bugs. Dave Daulton From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!caen!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:32:22 EDT 1993 Article: 20198 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!caen!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: short corn Message-ID: <1993Jul22.104632.4473@walter.cray.com> Lines: 38 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993Jul21.183750.26382@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Date: 22 Jul 93 10:46:31 CDT In article , bonsai@netcom.com (Mark LaPolla) writes: |> Kathleen Much (kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU) wrote: |> : In article bonsai@netcom.com (Mark LaPolla) writes: |> : >I am looking for a corn hybrid with very short stalks. The shortest I have |> : >found is around 5 feet. I figure with close planting and little water they'll |> : >grow even short. (This is part of my hybrid japanese garden.) |> |> : My Early Sunglow topped out at between 3 and 4 feet. |> |> : -- |> : -------------------------------------------------------------------- |> : Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU |> : CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 |> : Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 |> |> Thanks. Is this the little cobs or normal sized? |> That is, the tiny fancy cobs or the big sized ears? What about the little |> mini corn? |> |> Thanks, |> |> M. |> |> -- |> The theory gives the answers, not the theorist. |> -- Allen Newell (UTC:13) Early Sunglow makes ears which are on the small side of "normal". They are about 6-7" long and a little thinner than ordinary ears but one or two make a serving. Baby corn is grown by planting the plants close together and harvesting before the kernels develop much; i.e shortly after pollination. I don't know the details but I imagine a variety which makes a lot of ears per stalk (most of which would abort if allowed to grow to maturity) would be best for baby corn. But I have never grown it. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Sat Jul 24 12:32:23 EDT 1993 Article: 20199 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@theory.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Neglected shrubs: save or replace? Date: 22 Jul 1993 17:19:11 GMT Organization: Laboratory for Computer Science, MIT Lines: 40 Distribution: na Message-ID: <22mi6f$8ek@GRAPEVINE.LCS.MIT.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: im4.lcs.mit.edu In article: bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) writes: ->When woody shrubs have been neglected, that is, not pruned for years, ->can they be helped with severe pruning? Or should they be removed and replaced? ->These are about 6' high, with leaves only at the outer tips of branches. -> ->I'd appreciate hearing from folks with experience in saving or scrapping ->shrubs. Or from folks with pruning references to share. I recommend the book "The complete guide to landscape design, renovation & maintenance: a practical handbook for the home landscape gardener." by Cass Turnbull, 1991. . She is specifically interested in renewing old shrubs, rather than ripping it all out and starting over. ->Would a lot depend on the type of shrub? If I tried to identify them by taking ->a sample to a nursery, wouldn't they just encourage me to buy new ones? Yes, the type of shrub matters. Turnbull explains several different types and what to do with them in her book. Most deciduous and a few conifers can take major hacking. Sometimes you can turn an overgrown shrub into a work of Japanese art by removing most of it but leaving some picturesque parts. Some nurseries are better than others. Buyer beware. ->Also, if pruning is advised, should it wait until fall? Spring? In a word, Yes. Midsummer is the worst time to prune because new growth may not harden enough before cold weather in the Fall. You can, however, remove dead branches which will often make a big difference in how a shrub looks. Later, in mid-September until it's too uncomfortable for you to work outside, you can prune live wood. By then you will have had a chance to read up on what you are doing. --Jill -- A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0400(EDT)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA |^M MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W|  From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!heiser Sat Jul 24 12:32:24 EDT 1993 Article: 20200 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!heiser From: heiser@wam.umd.edu (Mark Donald Heiser) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Brecks catalogue Date: 22 Jul 1993 17:37:40 GMT Organization: University of Maryland College Park Lines: 9 Message-ID: <22mj94$7l8@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: rac1.wam.umd.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] I just received a catalogue from Breck's filled with lots of color pictures of the bulbs they sell. Since I'm considering putting in some bulbs this fall, I was wondering if the merchandise they sell matches what's in the pictures. So any glowing testimonials out there? any harsh criticisms? or would anyone suggest a different outfit with a better buy for the money etc? thanks. Mark From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!caen!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sat Jul 24 12:32:24 EDT 1993 Article: 20201 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!caen!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Re: What's a taxonomist? (was rain in IA) Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 15:57:07 GMT References: <22kaje$9ia@fido.asd.sgi.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: hpdmd48.boi.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 4 Isn't a plant taxonomist someone who stuffs and mounts wild vegetables that gardeners have hunted down and killed? ;-) Gary Hypes From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!icon.rose.hp.com!hpchase.rose.hp.com!karin Sat Jul 24 12:32:25 EDT 1993 Article: 20202 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!icon.rose.hp.com!hpchase.rose.hp.com!karin From: karin@mothra.rose.hp.com (Karin Doyle) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Lawn Mower Advice Sought Date: 13 Jul 1993 15:38:03 GMT Organization: Hewlett Packard Roseville Site Lines: 24 Message-ID: <21uksr$9tu@hpchase.rose.hp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mothra.rose.hp.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.4] Hello Garden Gurus! As a first time home owner with CC&Rs, I need to buy a lawn mower or hire a gardener....pronto. I would like advice on electric vs. motor, brands, new vs. used, raking attachments and anything I would never think to ask about. Thanks 2 million! _ |/ _ _ . / ) _ / _ ___|\_(_\_/(_/_/)_ __/_/_(_)_\/_/_(/_ / Karin Doyle Telephone: T/916-785-8502 Hewlett-Packard FAX: 1-785-5132 Networked Computer E-mail: karin@hpncmohy.rose.hp.com Manufacturing Operation Mailstop: R3 ME Foothills Boulevard Roseville, CA 95747-6588 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Sat Jul 24 12:32:26 EDT 1993 Article: 20203 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bradford Pears Message-ID: Date: 22 Jul 93 16:33:36 GMT References: <1993Jul22.143210.28091@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T Lines: 24 I just wrote back to the person asking how to save his newly planted silver maples, advising him to kill them, and that reminded me of what I observed earlier this month here in Westerville, Ohio. Westerville has encouraged persons to plant Bradford pears, even declaring it our "official street tree". We have quite a few here, and they are getting to be pretty big for pears. Well, we had a really good wind storm, and guess what--broken pear trees on virtually every street (I would say "literally" every street, but I have not checked them all). Many appear to have shattered, with branches on all sides, and the stump-trunk in the middle. Apart from pears, I saw a few silver maples downed (no surprise), and one tulip tree. So, if you have not already done so, I would add this tree to your "avoid" list, along with: - silver maples (susceptible to high winds) - willows (roots get in pipes) - poplars (both of the above) - European white birch (doomed, unless you live in really cold area) - grey dogwood (spreads into wilds, competing with native trees) Dave Daulton From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!linac!sunova!tunisia.ssc.gov!qwerty Sat Jul 24 12:32:28 EDT 1993 Article: 20204 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!linac!sunova!tunisia.ssc.gov!qwerty From: qwerty@tunisia.ssc.gov (Kris Schludermann) Subject: Growing potatoes in a plastic bag/container Message-ID: <1993Jul22.183756.22456@sunova.ssc.gov> Sender: usenet@sunova.ssc.gov (News Admin) Nntp-Posting-Host: tunisia.ssc.gov Organization: Superconducting Super Collider Laboratory Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 18:37:56 GMT Lines: 4 Is it feasiable to grow potatoes in a plastic container? if so what precautions must be taken? krispy kritter From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!sgigate!sgi!wdl1!ds!krakatoa.camb-lads.loral.com!dwilbert Sat Jul 24 12:32:29 EDT 1993 Article: 20205 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!sgigate!sgi!wdl1!ds!krakatoa.camb-lads.loral.com!dwilbert From: dwilbert@krakatoa.camb-lads.loral.com (Deborah Wilbert) Subject: Re: Wheeping Cherry tree troubles - help! Message-ID: <1993Jul22.181803.4981@camb-labs.loral.com> Sender: news@camb-labs.loral.com Reply-To: dwilbert@krakatoa.camb-lads.loral.com (Deborah Wilbert) Organization: Loral Advanced Distributed Simulation References: <1993Jul22.143210.28091@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 18:18:03 GMT Lines: 22 |> How long until I should expect to see new leaf growth? |> (There is currently NO leaves on this tree, but if I scratch the bark there is |> still green) |> |> When do you call it quits on a tree? |> (As you can probably tell, I want to save this tree!) My parents bought a weeping cherry a few years ago. The same thing happened. In fact, they were so sure the tree had died that they got a credit from the nursery. They left it in the ground, though, and the next spring it showed signs of life, although it still didn't look robust. A few years later, the tree is going strong. |> |> Is full afternoon sun too much for a wheeping cherry? Funny, my parents were concerned that it didn't get enough light. You might try trimming the tree to reduce the load on the damaged roots. But otherwise, just be patient. Good luck. -Deborah From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!The-Star.honeywell.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!uwm.edu!rutgers!igor.rutgers.edu!newsserver.jvnc.net!synapse.bms.com!riversend.bms.com!user Sat Jul 24 12:32:29 EDT 1993 Article: 20206 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!The-Star.honeywell.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!uwm.edu!rutgers!igor.rutgers.edu!newsserver.jvnc.net!synapse.bms.com!riversend.bms.com!user From: Roberts_D@BMS.COM (Dan Roberts) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Pepper question Message-ID: Date: 22 Jul 93 17:48:42 GMT Sender: news@synapse.bms.com Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Bristol-Myers-Squibb Research Lines: 12 When should I pick the yellow peppers off my plant. I have picked a few and I though tthat they were supposed to be hot..but to my suprise they didn't have any taste at all..maybe a tiny bit sweet..These peppers are in the shape of a sock and yellow to greenish in color..My guess is that I am picking them to soon?? Should the stem still stay attached to the pepper when I pick it???..>Dan Dan Roberts BRISTOL-MYERS SQUIBB PHARM. RES. CENTER "Nature is last at Bats" Cardio-Vascular Biochem Dept. PRINCETON, NEW JERSEY U.S.A. PLANET EARTH, MILKY-WAY GALAXY <<<>>>Roberts_D@BMS.COM From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!The-Star.honeywell.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!corwin!james Sat Jul 24 12:32:30 EDT 1993 Article: 20207 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!The-Star.honeywell.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!caen!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!yktnews.watson.ibm.com!corwin!james From: james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) Subject: Re: Harvesting Horseradish (& willow tea = aspirin?) Sender: news@rchland.ibm.com Message-ID: <1993Jul22.181727.42226@rchland.ibm.com> Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 18:17:27 GMT Reply-To: JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM References: <39666@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <93201.145953U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: corwin.rchland.ibm.com Organization: IBM Rochester Lines: 18 In article <93201.145953U14371@uicvm.uic.edu>, writes: |> Okay, so I have this nice healthy looking horseradish (don't know what type). |> But I don't know how to harvest the root. That is to say I would like to be |> able to dig it up, cut off most of the root (to eat of course), and replant the |> plant. Is there anything special I should do? Or can I plunk it back in the |> ground and give it a good watering? (I'm also inexperienced at grafting, but I |> think someone just covered that.) Just dig around the plant and start pulling roots. It's the smaller roots that are better to use. The big root under the plant is probably woody. I dug up my entire patch last year. I was really careful to pull as much as I could. (Over a wheelbarrow of roots). And guess what? It all came back in full force. Why can't the rest of the garden grow as good? -- James White From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:32:30 EDT 1993 Article: 20208 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rain in Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul22.141958.15036@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 22 Jul 93 14:19:57 -0600 References: <1993Jul14.211915.16286@sequent.com> <1993Jul15.154544.7354@news.uiowa.edu> <1993Jul16.123039.14846@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul22.145911.9217@rchland.ibm.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 12 In article <1993Jul22.145911.9217@rchland.ibm.com>, james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) writes: > You have my sympathies. We get the water first here in Rochester Minnesota, and > then send it down the Mississippi to you. They are forcasting another 4 inches > over the weekend. Won't make much difference, I guess... its pouring buckets out right now, and they're talking 6" here... But the water is back in the mains in Des Moines (can't drink it, but you can wash and flush!), so there is rejoicing in the streets... Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!col.hp.com!rcm Sat Jul 24 12:32:31 EDT 1993 Article: 20209 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!col.hp.com!rcm From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc) Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Peppers: :( --> :) Followup-To: alt.folklore.herbs,rec.gardens Date: 22 Jul 1993 19:18:03 GMT Organization: where? Lines: 12 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22mp5b$297@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: <21srfn$c1o@menudo.uh.edu> <13JUL199308510878@venus.tamu.edu> <22eogr$5rl@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> <22k6je$4os@newsflash.mitre.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0.7] Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu alt.folklore.herbs:575 rec.gardens:20209 Steven Miale (miale@weiner.mitre.org) wrote: : In article <22eogr$5rl@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> pgraham@herman.cs.uoguelph.ca (Paul Graham) writes: :>I remember reading an interesting article in DISCOVER magazine a couple years :>back that discussed the chemical in peppers that made them taste *hot*. : It's called capsicum. BZZZT! It's called capsaicine, or just as correct, capsicin. Capsicum refers to the GENUS of the pepper plant, not of the hot chemicals... Rick From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:32:32 EDT 1993 Article: 20210 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Nutmeg germination help needed Message-ID: <1993Jul22.143029.15038@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 22 Jul 93 14:30:29 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 16 Posted for Karen Scott: Please email any replies to her-- she has problems posting to rec.gardens. Thanks! [kay] Help! I am examining nutmeg seeds (my contacts in Grenada call them "pods") for unique enzymes. At present, my nutmegs are shipped to Philadelphia PA from Grenada, but I worry that the time lapse between harvest and assay (4 days minimum) and also the unknown perils of shipping (extremes of temperature, etc.) have adversely affected the pods. I have reason to believe that my best chance of finding the enzymes of interest will occur when the seed germinates, but I have had no success in my efforts to coax the Grenada pods towards germination. I would be grateful for any suggestions on how to improve the chances of recovering active enzymes from germinating nutmeg pods. Thanks! Karen Scott kscott@arserrc.gov From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:32:32 EDT 1993 Article: 20211 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Brecks catalogue Message-ID: <1993Jul22.143256.15039@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 22 Jul 93 14:32:55 -0600 References: <22mj94$7l8@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 12 In article <22mj94$7l8@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu>, heiser@wam.umd.edu (Mark Donald Heiser) writes: > I just received a catalogue from Breck's filled with lots of color > pictures of the bulbs they sell. Since I'm considering putting in > some bulbs this fall, I was wondering if the merchandise they sell > matches what's in the pictures. So any glowing testimonials out > there? any harsh criticisms? or would anyone suggest a different > outfit with a better buy for the money etc? thanks. I'm very fond of Dutch Gardens for quality and price. Address is in the FAQ I posted a few days ago. Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!network.ucsd.edu!btree!markski Sat Jul 24 12:32:33 EDT 1993 Article: 20212 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!ogicse!network.ucsd.edu!btree!markski From: markski@btree.uucp (Mark Sankowski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bannana Peppers Message-ID: <1993Jul22.193732.5138@btree.uucp> Date: 22 Jul 93 19:37:32 GMT Article-I.D.: btree.1993Jul22.193732.5138 Distribution: na Organization: Brooktree Corporation Lines: 5 I once asked a farmer how he tells the difference between hot and sweet peppers. He told me that the hot peppers point up and the sweet ones just hang there. I tested this and it worked, but tasting it would'nt be a bad idea. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!portal.austin.ibm.com!awdprime.austin.ibm.com!zack Sat Jul 24 12:32:34 EDT 1993 Article: 20213 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!portal.austin.ibm.com!awdprime.austin.ibm.com!zack From: zack@austin.ibm.com (Dave Zack) Subject: Pickling Peppers Sender: news@austin.ibm.com (News id) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 20:04:41 GMT Distribution: na Reply-To: zack@eureka.austin.ibm.com Organization: IBM, Austin Lines: 15 Hi All, I have a ton of Jalapenos and Serrano peppers that I would like to pickle. Does anyone have some good recipes or other things I can do with them. If you have good salsa recipes, I will also take them too.. Thanks a bunch...I will post a summary if I get a bunch of answers. -- Dave Zack (512) 823-9558 ===> zack@eureka.austin.ibm.com ---------------------------------------------------------- AUSTIN HUNS RUGBY: Real Men, Real Blood, Real Fun. (512) 453-2344 HUNS HOTLINE Texas Rugby Champs | US Western Territory Champions | US National Semifinalists From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!willis1.cis.uab.edu!cs.utk.edu!langston.cs.utk.edu!langston Sat Jul 24 12:32:34 EDT 1993 Article: 20214 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!willis1.cis.uab.edu!cs.utk.edu!langston.cs.utk.edu!langston From: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bradford Pears Date: 22 Jul 1993 20:32:06 GMT Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Tennessee Lines: 28 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22mtg6INNqoj@CS.UTK.EDU> References: <1993Jul22.143210.28091@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> Reply-To: langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) NNTP-Posting-Host: langston.cs.utk.edu dave daulton shamelessly writes unflattering remarks about bradford pears > details deleted i agree with you dave on those wacky bradfords -- check out dirr's most recent opinion... my main objection is their overuse -- the nursery trade and an uninformed public has pushed and planted them until they are now de rigueur for every lawn in these parts a little (but true) story for your chuckles: i was out at the road in front of my place the other day and a stranger drove up and inquired about where he could find some "pretty trees" like those he saw -- i wondered which trees he meant -- was it my collection of sweetgum? katsura? yellowwood? magnolia? assorted oak? sugar maple? american beech? chestnut? -- you get the picture -- so i asked him just which trees he admired, to which he responded "those way over the hill there," pointing at where my neighbor's cluster of bradfords stand i assured him that he'd have no trouble finding those anywhere -- mike langston department of computer science, university of tennessee From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:32:35 EDT 1993 Article: 20215 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Iowa Message-ID: <1993Jul22.152739.15044@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 22 Jul 93 15:27:39 -0600 References: <1993Jul22.123504.23149@hemlock.cray.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 38 In article <1993Jul22.123504.23149@hemlock.cray.com>, dadams@cray.com (David Adams) writes: > So why don't they start growing rice in Iowa? > We do. I've got paddy rice in the greenhouse. Unfortunately, it's not doing well, since we haven't much sunshine. ISU Botany has some paddy rice, too. And wild rice. Stray facts from today's Des Moines Register: Here's a few days of inflow and outflow information (in thousands of cubic feet per second) on the Saylorville Dam, above Des Moines, and the Red Rock, below Des Moines: Saylorville Red Rock Date in out in out 7-7 21.9 27.5 57.4 68.4 7-8 28.0 24.9 60.8 69.8 7-9 47.1 32.8 75.4 73.0 7-10 41.2 37.4 76.4 82.9 7-11 44.7 35.8 134.9 97.0 7-12 45.8 40.3 114.7 103.0 7-13 46.0 42.1 104.0 104.0 7-14 40.5 41.8 101.0 104.4 7-15 38.8 40.8 90.0 103.0 7-16 35.8 37.0 82.0 103.0 7-17 35.9 40.0 73.0 102.4 7-18 39.8 37.0 85.0 101.8 7-19 37.3 39.3 78.6 95.0 7-20 35.0 39.0 72.0 90.0 7-21 31.0 40.0 80.0 87.0 Average July: 2.4 2.4 5.5 5.5 The pools at both dams are right at maximum pool height the Army Corps likes to maintain them today... Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!ns1.cc.lehigh.edu!mls4 Sat Jul 24 12:32:35 EDT 1993 Article: 20216 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!ns1.cc.lehigh.edu!mls4 From: mls4@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (Maurice L. Sipos) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Food Dehydrators: Tool or Toy? Message-ID: <1993Jul22.175829.55971@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> Date: 22 Jul 93 17:58:29 GMT Organization: Lehigh University Lines: 48 In article , sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes : >In article <1993Jul19.171454.2154@hsh.com> paul@hsh.com (Paul Havemann) writes: >> >>I'm curious as to anybody's experiences with food dehydrators. On the 'pro' >>side, I can see a use for them while fruit (and some veggie) prices are so >>low where I live -- and especially since my raspberry crop is coming >>in gangbusters. ;) >> >>On the 'con' side, I wonder: >>- how much use they actually get. Is this, like juicers and choppers and >> such, one of those things that sound nice but are impractical? >> How long, for example, does it take to dehydrate a typical load? >> How well do most foods (veggies & fruits mostly) re-hydrate, and how >> tasty/nutricious are they? How about using dehydrators for drying flowers? Has anyone tried this yet? >> >>And, from those who would recommend them, any specific recommendations? > >Last year my in-laws sent me one of those that you see advertised on >those info-mercials. Actually, I like it, and last summer and fall it >was in almost constant use. > >THE BIG HOWEVER, however, is I think it depends on what you want to >use it *For*. I dried chile peppers (worked great) and herbs (also great) >but was disappointed in drying plums, and the tomatoes were nasty. Maybe >more experimentation was in order, but I ended up saucing the tomatoes (freezin gand canning the plums (jams and cordials) I definitely would not try drying >a raspberry. > >Drying time varies with what you're drying, peppers (whole) take 2-3 days >herbs overnight to 24hours. The bonus is that while the thing is going >your house will smell fabulous! (except in the case where we tried bananas, >since neithr of us really like them, the kids do, it was yecchy) > >I would be interested in other's experiences, since I think I could do >more with it. > >--Kim Fisher > >-- >The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. >Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com > -- ------------------------------ Maurice L. Sipos 758-4525 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news Sat Jul 24 12:32:36 EDT 1993 Article: 20217 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news From: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey) Subject: Re: Pond Liners and UV light Reply-To: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Organization: University of Western Ontario Distribution: na Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 20:49:03 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul22.204903.9732@julian.uwo.ca> References: Sender: news@julian.uwo.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: cupoftea.ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Lines: 52 In article russell@ncube.com (Russell Randolph) writes: > But I >have run into two problems. First, the non-pond side of the rock. I guess >I could fill this with gravel all the way up to the ground level. or dirt and let the grass grow up to the rocks. might look nice. or you could put some alpine flowers that *want* to be stuck in rock crevices. might look even nicer. >... But the >bigger problem is between the rocks on the water side... If the >water line was below the rocks, then the liner wouldn't even be under any >water! (A major vote for having the water line ON the rocks) oh definately have the water on the rocks. no question about it. >I can't think of what to fill it in with... >Or I need a suggestion on what to put there to cover it up. I could always >try algae -- I hear that that is easy to grow! :^) well, i have a thought on how i might approach it. under the big rocks (which i am guessing at 6-10" in diameter) place a ledge of patio stones, perhaps broken in half, or even better, some 1-3 dry wall (the 1" thick flatrock, not the stuff in the walls of your home :). this gives you: --- ( )_ <-- irregular shaped rock ground level ======== ( ) \ ( )~~~~~ <-- water level \ - ) _ \ (______) (_) \%%%%%%%%%%%% <-- slab +------+ | \ <-- liner and allows a shelf on which you can stuff smaller rocks (fist sized) betwixt the big rocks. just a thought. >russell@ncube.com care to guess how many ncubes are nicknamed "borg" -- Lance R. Bailey System/Network Manager Robarts Research Institute NeXT/email: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca box: Clinical Trials Resources Group fax: +1 519 663 3789 P.O. Box 5015, 100 Perth Dr. vox: +1 519 663 3787 x4108 London, Canada N6A 5K8 Time is just nature's way of keeping everything from happening at once--J.Thomas From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!cis.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!batcomputer!theory.TC.Cornell.EDU!fielding Sat Jul 24 12:32:36 EDT 1993 Article: 20218 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!cis.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!batcomputer!theory.TC.Cornell.EDU!fielding From: fielding@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (David L. Fielding) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Fritillaria Message-ID: <22muen$jrb@fitz.TC.Cornell.EDU> Date: 22 Jul 93 20:48:23 GMT Organization: Cornell Theory Center Lines: 16 NNTP-Posting-Host: theory.tc.cornell.edu Does anyone out there have experience with seeds from Crown Imperials (F.Robra and F. Lutea Maxima)? I'm interested in how easily the seeds germinate, ie., just throw them in the ground or spend loads of time trying to get them to germinate. I do realize that it takes 4,5 or more years before the bulbs are large enoungh to flower. Thanks -- David L. Fielding fielding@library.cornell.edu Cornell Information Technologies 503 Olin Library Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853 Phone:(607)255-2783 Fax:(607)255-9346 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!trivia.eng.gtefsd.com!theodore Sat Jul 24 12:32:37 EDT 1993 Article: 20219 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!trivia.eng.gtefsd.com!theodore From: theodore@trivia.eng.gtefsd.com (Theodore B. Ruegsegger) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bradford Pears Date: 22 Jul 1993 21:01:08 GMT Organization: GTE Federal Systems Lines: 20 Distribution: world Message-ID: <22mv6k$5ra@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> References: <1993Jul22.143210.28091@porthos.cc.bellcore.com> <22mtg6INNqoj@CS.UTK.EDU> Reply-To: theodore@europa.eng.gtefsd.com NNTP-Posting-Host: trivia.eng.gtefsd.com In article <22mtg6INNqoj@CS.UTK.EDU>, langston@langston.cs.utk.edu (Mike Langston) writes: |> dave daulton shamelessly writes unflattering remarks about |> bradford pears ... |> my main objection is their overuse -- the nursery trade and an |> uninformed public has pushed and planted them until they are now |> de rigueur for every lawn in these parts |> My main objection is the smell of those flowers. I'll concede the tree has a lovely shape, and looks exceptionally lovely when in bloom, but it's little short of nauseating to walk up my street at that time. I can only assume it depends on carrion flies for pollination. --- Theodore B. Ruegsegger GTE Government Systems | Washington, D.C., a city of Southern theodore@europa.eng.gtefsd.com | efficiency and Northern charm. theodore%betster@aquin.ori-cal.com | -- John F. Kennedy From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!olivea!gossip.pyramid.com!pyramid!infmx!ladybug!erika Sat Jul 24 12:32:37 EDT 1993 Article: 20220 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!olivea!gossip.pyramid.com!pyramid!infmx!ladybug!erika From: erika@ladybug.informix.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: White Spots on Cucumbers and squash Message-ID: <1993Jul22.203249.7648@informix.com> Date: 22 Jul 93 20:32:49 GMT References: <22m4hmINNiu2@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> Sender: news@informix.com (Usenet News) Reply-To: erika@ladybug.informix.com Distribution: usa Organization: Informix Software Lines: 19 In article 22m4hmINNiu2@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM, mann@da_bearz (Todd Mann SE Northern IL) writes: > >Every year, as the season progresses, I seem to get white spots on my >cucumber and squash plant leaves then the leaves turn yellow and die. > >What causes this? Is it a fungizide or a bug of somesort? Any and >all help is appreciated. BTW, I live in the Chicago area and the >climate is rather wet. Also I have a splinkler system in my garden. > > >-- >Thanks >--- It is powedery mildew, a fungus. I've been told that sulphur can control it. Avoid wetting the leaves, moisture ecourages the fungus to grow. - erika From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:32:38 EDT 1993 Article: 20221 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: sunchokes Message-ID: <1993Jul22.154327.8472@walter.cray.com> Date: 22 Jul 93 20:43:26 GMT References: <1993Jul21.202132.24666@mcnc.org> Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Distribution: usa Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Lines: 15 Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com In article <1993Jul21.202132.24666@mcnc.org>, tstand@mcnc.org (Tena Standish) writes: |> Is there a better time of year or season to dig sunchokes otherwise |> known as Jerusalem Artichokes? |> |> I have some planted and have not harvested them yet. |> They should be harvested after the tops have died down in the fall. They can be harvested any time until mid spring after that unless your soil freezes rock hard. The tubers are hardy but of course you can't get at them in deepfreeze cold. After mid spring they sprout into new plants. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:32:38 EDT 1993 Article: 20222 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bug juice?! Does it work? Message-ID: <1993Jul22.155155.8596@walter.cray.com> Date: 22 Jul 93 20:51:55 GMT References: <22f7vd$2pq@dorsai.dorsai.org> Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Lines: 31 Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com In article , bae@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) writes: |> In article <22f7vd$2pq@dorsai.dorsai.org> dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) writes: |> >I read in my copy of Rodale's encyclopedia that you can make a solution of |> >squashed bugs and water and spray this on your plants to keep bugs similar to |> >the squashed ones away. This almost sounds like sympathetic magic to me but I |> >have seen stranger things! |> |> There is actually science behind it. It can work in at least two ways: |> |> (1) Some insects produce an 'alarm pheromone'. Being squashed is |> pretty alarming, so a solution of squashed bugs may repel others of |> the same kind. |> |> (2) Some of the squashed insects may be carrying insect diseases, so |> a solution of squashed bugs may also be a solution of insect |> pathogens, which can infect the next bug to chew a sprayed leaf. |> |> Haven't tried it myself - I haven't gotten a big enough infestation of |> anything (knock wood) except slugs. Slug juice, anyone? |> |> Beverly Erlebacher |> Toronto, Ontario Canada I wonder what would happen if you did this with striped cucumber beetles which carry Bacterial Wilt of cucumbers or cantaloupes? I am not being sarcastic; maybe if you did it to healthy plants without breaks in the stems and leaves through which the bacteria could enter, it might work. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!news Sat Jul 24 12:32:39 EDT 1993 Article: 20223 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!news From: os2user@brdiller.houston.ibm.com (Barry Diller) Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Sender: news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 21:29:04 GMT Lines: 57 Reply-To: brdiller@vnet.ibm.com (Barry Diller) Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM. References: <1993Jul14.174734.30867@rchland.ibm.com> <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com> <1993Jul22.142930.10300@rchland.ibm.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: brdiller.houston.ibm.com Organization: IBM Federal Sector Services Company, Houston, Texas X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v0.20 by O. Vishnepolsky and R. Rogers In <1993Jul22.142930.10300@rchland.ibm.com>, james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) writes: >I have to be honest about this. Most people are more anal retentive about >canning than I am. I have found over the years that home canned goods have a >wonderful way of telling you when they are bad. They look bad, smell bad, bloat >outwards, ... I have found that canning is easy and as far as I am concerned, >the final product is as safe as anything you could buy. It's usually 3 to 9 months before we get around to eating from a jar we've canned, so I've always assumed that if there's anything wrong with a jar, that fact will become extremely obvious over time. > >Things I have canned using hot water bath. (Just for background) >jellies and jams (grape, strawberry, ground cherry, peach, raspberries, ...) >saurkraut >fruit juices >whole tomatoes >BBQ sauce >V8 >tomato juice >pickles (onions, watermellon rind, cucumbers, green beans, peppers, okra) >salsa (sweet, hot, sour) >chickens (8 roosters) Really? Did you pack them in an acidic sauce of some sort? >peaches >apple butter >apple sauce >pears >pear sauce >cherry pie filling >corn, greenbeans (but I perfer freezing) I thought that these items were definite no-no's for hot water bath canning. I assume you packed these in water, or did you use vinegar? > >and there must be a million things I am missing. I got a free packet of SWEET PICKLE PEPPER seeds from a company I ordered from last spring, and the plants are doing well. I'm beginning to harvest a dozen or so large yellow/yellow-orange/orange-red/red peppers every few days, but I don't really don't know what to do with them. They're not very tasty. I canned a quart of them kosher-style, and the jar looks beautiful, but I doubt that the contents will taste like much. Got any ideas on how to can my next batch? Maybe a sweet pickling sauce? > >-- > >James White ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Barry R. Diller IBM Federal Sector Sevices Company EMail address: brdiller@vnet.ibm.com Houston, Texas USA From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!uhog.mit.edu!eddie.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!news.byu.edu!cwis.isu.edu!fcom.cc.utah.edu!UUSERV.CC.UTAH.EDU!michele Sat Jul 24 12:32:39 EDT 1993 Article: 20224 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!uhog.mit.edu!eddie.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!news.byu.edu!cwis.isu.edu!fcom.cc.utah.edu!UUSERV.CC.UTAH.EDU!michele From: michele@UUSERV.CC.UTAH.EDU (Michele Parker) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Food Dehydrators: Tool or Toy? Message-ID: Date: 22 Jul 93 21:12:44 GMT References: <22i0fk$bqr@lll-winken.llnl.gov> <22k2c2$oh6@hsdndev.harvard.edu> <22k2qe$opp@hsdndev.harvard.edu> <1993Jul22.150240.3619@fcom.cc.utah.edu> Sender: news@fcom.cc.utah.edu Organization: University of Utah Computer Center Lines: 55 In article <1993Jul22.150240.3619@fcom.cc.utah.edu> derick@gse.utah.edu (Derick Siddoway) writes: >From: derick@gse.utah.edu (Derick Siddoway) >Subject: Re: Food Dehydrators: Tool or Toy? >Date: Thu, 22 Jul 93 15:02:40 GMT >Well, I'll just throw in my two cents, the norm for Usenet... >I bought a cheapo dehydrator from a local drugstore last Christmas >for my wife (to see if I should be spending the time to build her >a great big dryer like my dad built for my mom ;-) We don't have >a real big garden, so we've been at the mercy of the prices of fruits >in the stores, and we haven't used it as much as we'd like to. But when >we have used it, the biggest problem is that we can't make enough. >We made jerky, dried bananas, dried apples, strawberry leather (roll-ups). >In my father's large drier (by large, I mean that it held 12 trays that >were about 4 square feet each), we used to dry apricots all summer long. >Never used the dryer for leather, though. Mom just poured the stuff on >cookie sheets and set it in the sun for a day. > >Enough rambling about my walk down memory lane... > >Bottom line is that you will like a commercial dehydrator IFF you like >dried foods a lot. If you object to the toughness, or the difference >in flavor from the fresh produce, you probably won't like it. Drying >time is generally negligible. Most things dry in two days or less. >Some as quickly as overnight. > >derick >------------------------------------------------------------- >Derick Siddoway If you stew cranberries like >University of Utah applesauce, they taste much more like >derick@gse.utah.edu plums than rhubarb does. > I was going to try drying in the sun (like your mom), but the weather here in Utah hasn't been the norm (or so I've heard, this is my 1st year here). So I'm also thinking about buying a dehydrator. Our apricots our just now ripe (and very yummy!), and we lost some of them being blown off the tree in our short thunderstorm yesterday evening. I've also got tomatoes, zucchini, pumpkin, cantelope, watermelon and squash I'd like to experiment with. How good was your cheap dehydrator? And any other opinions on cheap ones as well. I've seen them advertised as low as $15, and as high as $169. That's a big difference for a grad student! I'll follow this thread, but emailed advice is appreciated as well. Since it's about that time of year, maybe we should post our dehydrating results as we get them, especially on unusual products. ============================================================================== Michele D. Parker "We are the music makers, email (michele@bebr.bus.utah.edu) and we are the dreamers Proud Parent of: Morgan 7, and Alyssa 2 of dreams......" ============================================================================== From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!fs!nntp_server!empros.com!joannek Sat Jul 24 12:32:40 EDT 1993 Article: 20225 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!fs!nntp_server!empros.com!joannek From: joannek@empros.com (Joanne Kube-Harderwijk) Subject: Re: Brecks catalogue Sender: news@empros.com (ems-news) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 21:56:52 GMT Distribution: na Reply-To: joannek@empros.com References: <22mj94$7l8@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> <1993Jul22.143256.15039@iscsvax.uni.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: northstar.empros.com Organization: Empros Power Systems Control, a division of Siemens EA Lines: 22 In article <1993Jul22.143256.15039@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: |> In article <22mj94$7l8@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu>, heiser@wam.umd.edu (Mark Donald Heiser) writes: |> > I just received a catalogue from Breck's filled with lots of color |> > pictures of the bulbs they sell. Since I'm considering putting in |> > some bulbs this fall, I was wondering if the merchandise they sell |> > matches what's in the pictures. So any glowing testimonials out |> > there? any harsh criticisms? or would anyone suggest a different |> > outfit with a better buy for the money etc? thanks. |> |> I'm very fond of Dutch Gardens for quality and price. Address is in the |> FAQ I posted a few days ago. |> Ditto on the Dutch Gardens. I have ordered from both and got better bulbs from Dutch Gardens. The only complaint I have about them is that their catalog is so inviting I want one of everything. :.) A bunch of people from work are ordering again this year. The orders are sitting on my desk right now waiting for me to total them up and send them in. Joanne Kube-Harderwijk From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!The-Star.honeywell.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!magnesium.club.cc.cmu.edu!eddie.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!news.byu.edu!cwis.isu.edu!fcom.cc.utah.edu!UUSERV.CC.UTAH.EDU!michele Sat Jul 24 12:32:41 EDT 1993 Article: 20226 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!The-Star.honeywell.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!magnesium.club.cc.cmu.edu!eddie.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!news.byu.edu!cwis.isu.edu!fcom.cc.utah.edu!UUSERV.CC.UTAH.EDU!michele From: michele@UUSERV.CC.UTAH.EDU (Michele Parker) Subject: Re: Carrots Message-ID: Lines: 15 Sender: news@fcom.cc.utah.edu Organization: University of Utah Computer Center References: <16C12C9AD.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 21:33:55 GMT In article <16C12C9AD.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu writes: >From: MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu >Subject: Carrots >Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 19:20:29 GMT >How do I know when my carrots are ready to be pulled up? > >Thanks, >Maggie The smaller the better, where carrots are concerned. Poke your finger gently around the base of the tops. If the top of the root is as big as a quarter or more, pull it! If you want even more luscious, tender carrots, pull them out when they're smaller. MDP From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Sat Jul 24 12:32:41 EDT 1993 Article: 20228 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, academic Computer Center Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 12:50:38 CDT From: Message-ID: <93203.125038U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Prunella (sp?) - Plant I.D. References: <26777@mindlink.bc.ca> <1453300277@igc.apc.org> Lines: 17 Okay, here's work that might be appropriate for a taxonomist. I have plant in the corner of my yard which I have (arbitrarily) reserved for native wildflowers which is clearly genus prunella (I have a more expert opinion than my own on this), but which is not P. vulgaris (selfheal or heal- all) because of its considerably larger size (around 2+' tall and flowers have nine or more tiers, while P. vulgaris is up to 1' and six tiers). First, are there any native (to N.A.) prunella species and could this be one of them? Second, what species might this be? (I'm told there are about 75.) Thanks for your help in this matter. Hans Goeckner goeckner@uicws.phy.uic.edu (^^^ physics) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:32:42 EDT 1993 Article: 20229 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Message-ID: <1993Jul22.182347.15051@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 23 Jul 93 00:23:47 GMT References: <1993Jul14.174734.30867@rchland.ibm.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 16 In article , os2user@brdiller.houston.ibm.com (Barry Diller) writes: > In <1993Jul22.142930.10300@rchland.ibm.com>, james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) writes: >>I have to be honest about this. Most people are more anal retentive about >>canning than I am. I have found over the years that home canned goods have a >>wonderful way of telling you when they are bad. They look bad, smell bad, bloat >>outwards, ... I have found that canning is easy and as far as I am concerned, >>the final product is as safe as anything you could buy. > > It's usually 3 to 9 months before we get around to eating from a jar we've > canned, so I've always assumed that if there's anything wrong with a jar, that > fact will become extremely obvious over time. Alas, botulism toxin can be found in canned goods with no obvious problems. That's why some of us are anal-retentive about open kettle canning... Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!boulder!boulder!davila Sat Jul 24 12:32:42 EDT 1993 Article: 20230 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!boulder!boulder!davila From: davila@boulder.Colorado.EDU (Jennifer Davila-Apon) Subject: Novice pepper grower Message-ID: Sender: news@colorado.edu (The Daily Planet) Nntp-Posting-Host: beagle.colorado.edu Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder Date: 23 Jul 93 00:35:58 GMT Lines: 9 I'm growing peppers for the first time this year. I've got two yellow bells andtwo anaheims (the anaheims were mislabeled as jalapen~os). They're doing great! But I've got a question - how do I know when the peppers are ripe? Trial and error? Thanks! Jenny Davila-Aponte davila@boulder.colorado.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!banting.bio.uci.edu!mspitzer Sat Jul 24 12:32:43 EDT 1993 Article: 20231 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!banting.bio.uci.edu!mspitzer From: mspitzer@banting.bio.uci.edu (Matt Spitzer) Subject: Re: peppers :( --> :) Nntp-Posting-Host: banting.bio.uci.edu Message-ID: <2C4F3128.5226@news.service.uci.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Organization: University of California, Irvine Lines: 16 Distribution: rec Date: 23 Jul 93 00:30:32 GMT W(Steven Miale) writes: >The problem is that capsicum content isn't always >accurate. For instance, >I believe the ratings make habaneros look a dozen times hotter than >jalepenos. I've been putting half a habenero on my tacos, and trust >me, it isn't the same as six jalepenos :-) Hmm, that's interesting. I eat whole raw jalapenos with little difficulty, but couldn't imagine trying the same with habaneros. Habs are supposed to have 100 times the capsacin concentration of jalapenos. One possibility is that your habs are not up to full strength. I've noticed that when chilis are grown in temperatures colder than optimal they can be much weaker than normal. Maybe your habs be chillin'... Matt Spitzer From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Sat Jul 24 12:32:43 EDT 1993 Article: 20232 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, academic Computer Center Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 17:22:33 CDT From: Message-ID: <93203.172233U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Lawn Mower Advice Sought References: <21uksr$9tu@hpchase.rose.hp.com> Lines: 13 We actually have a reel-type mower. It is wonderfully quiet and doesn't make my hand shake when I'm done. I costs nothing to run outside of an annual sharpening (VITAL!!) and a little oil now and again. Before you get one, though, consider the two following factors: 1) It's a lot of work on a large yard (ours is 60'x126' incl. house, et al.) 2) Not all mower brands are equal, ours (from Scotts - do they still sell these? We got ours from my in-laws) is quite easy to push, while our neighbors' (brand X) is a bear to push. Hans Goeckner goeckner@uicws.phy.uic.edu GO CARDS!!!!! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Sat Jul 24 12:32:44 EDT 1993 Article: 20233 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!unixg.ubc.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!janus.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: more on peppers... Message-ID: <1993Jul21.170727.1@rhea.arc.ab.ca> From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Date: 21 Jul 93 17:07:27 MDT References: <93201.104215MCW102@psuvm.psu.edu> Organization: Alberta Research Council Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Lines: 8 In article <93201.104215MCW102@psuvm.psu.edu>, writes: > I have been wondering if my cayenne peppers will become red on the plant > or if I have to pick them (they've been full size for about 3 weeks now) > and take them inside to "ripen?" Any advice is very welcome! They will ripen gradually on the plant (could take a few more weeks yet). If you leave them on even longer they will dry out on the plant and you can harvest pre-dried peppers. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:32:44 EDT 1993 Article: 20234 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Organic roses? Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <22kdfn$4ul@morrow.stanford.edu> Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 20:34:52 GMT Lines: 31 In article <22kdfn$4ul@morrow.stanford.edu> Kathy Rehm Switky writes: >Hello, >My new home came with some old beautiful roses...beasts whose >care is foreign to me. After perusing my trusty Sunset Western Gardening >Book >and other sources I'm left thinking I "should" feed them a systemic >plant food/insecticide. But pesticides of all sorts offend my >sensibilities. >If I stick to my morals, will I lose my roses? > No, by all means, no! I have to admit after reading a Sunset book it's hard to think of anything else except iccky petrochemical toxins, but I haven't used that kind of stuff in years and years, and my roses are pretty good. You don't say what kind of problems you're having with the roses, so I won't offer any advice other than to say I think organic is worth it. I started using fish emulsion this year and the roses seem to like it as a fertilizer, keep them watered (a good deep soak every 5-7 days is what mine like, but they're shaded part of the day) and keep the flowers "deadheaded" and they should bloom until winter. Then I prune them. I think even your Sunset book will offer advice on pruning techniques that will be OK. I also gave them some iron this year that they seemed to need, and controlled the spring infestation of aphids with a bunch of ladybugs. Don't give in! --Kim Fisher (posting on Scott's account) -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:32:45 EDT 1993 Article: 20235 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: eggplants: when to pick Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 21:12:02 GMT Lines: 15 In article petro@hancock.cerc.wvu.wvnet.edu (James Petro) writes: >How do I know when my eggplants are ready to pick? When they are big enough to eat, but before they lose their gloss and become dull. Not terribly exact, I guess, but even my reference books couldn't do better. The real trick I think, is to not let them get too big. Young eggplants are such a treat. The bigger they get, the more seeds they develop, which makes them sort of bitter. I like to pick them when they are somewhat smaller than the kind you get at the store. --Kim Fisher -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!cl27111 Sat Jul 24 12:32:45 EDT 1993 Article: 20236 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!cl27111 From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher Lindsey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Need slides of prairie plants for database... Date: 23 Jul 1993 04:47:25 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 28 Message-ID: <22nqgt$2g6@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: uxa.cso.uiuc.edu Hi everybody. As you might recall, about 9 months ago I posted a message about a plant database that I was working on... Things have been stop and go, but I'm at a point where I'm starting to scan slides for use within the database (A quick reminder on what I'm talking about: it is a database that will allow a user to type in a design characteristic, identification feature, or whatever, and then find a plant that matches the selected criteria. All information on the plant will be displayed, along with a small (200x217) 256 color image. It is 386+ processor specific, and requires the use of a SVGA card (640x400x256c), and may be put out on CD-ROM if the images get too big (each image is 44K, so if I have 500 plants in one database, that's about 22 meg. Multiple databases will be created over time, such as woody plants, native prairie plants, ornamental grasses, annuals, perennials, wildflowers, all of which can be loaded into the same program.) Anyhow, I have been taking snapshots of native prairie plants, but there's a lot of stuff that has already bloomed, or just isn't available in my part of the country. Does anyone have slides of prairie plants that they would be willing to let me use in the database? I'm not sure what kind of recompense you would get; right now I just want to get a feel for how many people are interested -- details can be worked out later. Thanks... Chris Graduate student, University of Illinois, Department of Horticulture From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling Sat Jul 24 12:32:46 EDT 1993 Article: 20238 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: Lawn Mower Advice Sought Message-ID: <1993Jul23.084739.12402@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: <21uksr$9tu@hpchase.rose.hp.com> <93203.172233U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 08:47:39 GMT Lines: 18 In article <93203.172233U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> writes: > We actually have a reel-type mower. It is wonderfully quiet and doesn't make >my hand shake when I'm done. I costs nothing to run outside of an annual >sharpening (VITAL!!) and a little oil now and again. Before you get one, >though, consider the two following factors: > 1) It's a lot of work on a large yard (ours is 60'x126' incl. house, et al.) > 2) Not all mower brands are equal, ours (from Scotts - do they still sell I have a slightly larger yard, and mowing it with a reel-type mover is a snap, practically just like walking around the yard. My original mower (15 years) was from Sears, and very satisfactory. It's replacement I got at Orchard Supply and it is annoyingly missing cotter pins where the handle attaches to the base, so every time I lift it over a curb, the handle tends to come unattached (grrrr). Another advantage is that you don't have to mess with buying and storing gas or oil. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke Sat Jul 24 12:32:46 EDT 1993 Article: 20239 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Fritillaria Message-ID: <1993Jul23.114531.3603@lsl.co.uk> Date: 23 Jul 93 11:45:31 +0100 References: <22muen$jrb@fitz.TC.Cornell.EDU> Distribution: world Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 19 In article <22muen$jrb@fitz.TC.Cornell.EDU>, fielding@theory.TC.Cornell.EDU (David L. Fielding) writes: > > Does anyone out there have experience with seeds from > Crown Imperials (F.Robra and F. Lutea Maxima)? I'm interested > in how easily the seeds germinate, ie., just throw them in the > ground or spend loads of time trying to get them to germinate. > Here in the UK, I sowed some Fritillaria imperialis (that's what I thought the name was anyway) in a pot outside as soon as the seed pods opened, and just left them outside over winter. They came up in the spring. That was last year, and they are still in their pot - I don't know what to do with the, because I'm sure if I plant them in the garden, I'll dig them up, or disturb them while planting other things. I quite like leaving the seedheads on the Fritillaria - they add some interest long after the flowers have gone. For anyone who doesn't know, the flowers hang down, but when they set seed, the stems then bend to point upwards - I've no idea why. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!watserv2.uwaterloo.ca!watserv1!praetzel Sat Jul 24 12:32:47 EDT 1993 Article: 20240 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!watserv2.uwaterloo.ca!watserv1!praetzel From: praetzel@sunee.uwaterloo.ca (Eric Praetzel) Subject: Re: terrible gardening year Message-ID: Sender: news@watserv1.uwaterloo.ca Organization: University of Waterloo References: Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 11:51:53 GMT Lines: 45 In article cathy@admin.acadiau.ca (CATHY MORINE-COLLINS) writes: >Is anyone out there having a terrible gardening year? Last year I started >gardening, had a great year and enjoyed it. This year I must have every >problem in the world. >First I had spittle bug, not real hazardous but ugly. >Then my plants were being eaten by what??? I try to use I started with 8 fruit trees last year and everything was going fine. I put in another 4 this year and then almost lost two of them to cherry slugs. Well the sweet cherry dropped most of its leaves but it looks like it is going to pull thru. Then I did not check my trees for another week and now I have another infestation. These things are like cherry slugs (weave leaves together and lay the eggs with in) but the young are more like catipellers. They love my apple trees but at least Ivory soap seems to kill them as well as it did the cherry slugs. Now if only I can figure out what was eating my sunflower plants. They are all of 1' high while the seeds I gave to my mother are 5' (grown in virtual beach sand). But this was my first summer at this house and I have noted where the wind / rain is from and moved two of my vines from very dry locations onto a fence I put up. Now they have a good 30' on each side to grow; I just hope that the fence lasts a long long time. The ravages of children has become abundently clear (I seem to be ahead in the tree/fruit-tree race but falling behind in the noisy kids/dogs one). But I am really wondering if it is possible for fruit trees to grow on their own. Next year I start with the dormant oil and will spray the trees if I ever see anything like a slug/catipillar (with Ivory soap of course). My apricot tree still has very small leaves (and not many of them). I got it from the nursary litteraly as a stalk and bare root. Almost every other tree was planted in the pot (fiber pots) while this one got the full nine yards. But at least my Nectared (nectarine) is green, bushy and completely left alone by all manner of crawling things. Pruning -------- For Canadians see if you can get the Ministry of Ag. book on fruit tree pruning. It is the best thing I have ever seen since it explains how/why and has some pictures. It is most likely out of print but if you have not found any good books I could send a copy around for photocopying. - Eric P.S If you do happen to use the Ivory soap insecticite remember to rinse the trees after. This should help prevent yellowing/dropping of leaves. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpfcso!duanej Sat Jul 24 12:32:47 EDT 1993 Article: 20241 of rec.gardens From: duanej@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Duane Jacobson) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 15:31:45 GMT Subject: Re: advice needed with deciduous vines (grape etc) Message-ID: <9880062@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM> Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpfcso!duanej Newsgroups: rec.gardens References: Lines: 80 I asked a similar question last fall, and here are some of the suggestions that I got. Names have been removed to protect the innocent (and the guilty). Anyone who cares to claim their work, correct it, or add to it is certainly welcome to do so. I'm from a harsher climate than you (USDA zone 4), so you certainly have more options. -- duane jacobson HP-Ft Collins ###################################################################### I'm growing English (NOT Boston) ivy into my new chain link fence. It also supposedly takes about 3 years to fill in (I planted starts about a foot apart.) It is evergreen. Some prople are allergic to it and some think it is a weed, since I gather it's ahrd to get rid of and likes to spread -- qualities *I* was looking for. I think grapes are deciduous -- the plants don't die in winter but the leaves fall off. (But I don't know that for sure.) I'm planning to get sweet autumn clematis (which has two different latin names that are very long and that I can't spell!) for one section of the fence. It grows 30' a year and blossoms in fall (fragrant). Maybe you could pick somethin g like that for a quick filler and (since it DOES die down) start something slower but more year-round and phase the clematis out later. ###################################################################### You might also want to consider espaliered fruit trees. Other native vines that might fill the bill: Ampelopsis cordata, heartleaf ampelopsis, wide spreading, hardy to 5b, easy Aristolochia durior, common dutchman's pipe, hardy to 4a, easy, but drought and heat sensitive; dense screen. Campsis radicans, trumpetcreeper, 5a, fast growing, you'll either like it or hate it. Clematis virginiana, virgin's bower, 3a, fast growing, dense, don't spend much on trellis design with this one-- you'll never see the trellis! Easy to grow but hard to transplant. Menispermum canadense, moonseed, 2; fast growing, short lived, but poisonous berries that look like grapes -- avoid around kids. Parthenocissus quinquefolia, virginia creeper -- zone 2, tough, fast growing, I'd put about 4 in a 12 ft screen. I like cv. Engelmannii with small leaflets. ###################################################################### Two vines come to mind... One is a flowering the other fruiting... Wisteria macrostachya Kentucky wisteria This is a native U.S. Wisteria vine hardy to zone 4b, with nice, dense, dark green foliage... The flowers appear in Mid-June, and are lavender, hanging down in 6-8" panicles... The fruit are green fuzzy pods that turn brown, and the vine is very fast-growing. I'm really impressed with the specimens at the Morton Arboretum. The only problem may be in finding one, but Anderson's (Andersen's?) book should give a nursery carrying it... Actinidia arguta Hardy kiwi This fruit-bearing vine is hardy to zone 3 and bears small, smooth, kiwi-like fruit (up to 10 lbs/vine!) which are edible. Good screening qualities, fast-growing, and interesting petioles (the stem on a leaf). They are dioecious, so if you want fruit, plant a male and female. Oh, one more just came to mind... Lonicera prolifera Yellow honeysuckle I love this vine! It has flowers whorled at the ends of the stems, under which appears a series of leaf-discs... Imagine round, bluish-green leaves impaled on a shish-kabob with flowers at the end... Thats the way the leaves look... Anyhow, the flowers are yellow in late May, and later on red fruit appear in clusters. Again, the specimen at the Morton Arboretum was fantastic, and drew hummingbirds and butterflies like crazy. It IS a native plant from Ontario down to Arkansas... From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!magnesium.club.cc.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!ajd Sat Jul 24 12:32:48 EDT 1993 Article: 20242 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!magnesium.club.cc.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!ajd From: ajd@sei.cmu.edu (Audrey Dorofee) Subject: name this lawn pest Message-ID: <1993Jul23.085129.15212@sei.cmu.edu> Sender: netnews@sei.cmu.edu (Netnews) Organization: The Software Engineering Institute Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 08:51:29 EDT Lines: 19 For all you knowledgable folks: I live near the woods in western PA and over the past few days something has been coming out at night and digging little holes in the lawn. These are usually 2 - 4 inches and very shallow, just the grass/moss pulled up and out of the way. Right now my lawn looks like it's been bombed by miniature planes! There are no tunnels that I can detect, just these shallow holes. Whatever it is the dog is fascinated by the scent left behind. Any ideas on what it is (or what to do about it before all my grass is in little piles)? Audrey (tired of putting all the grass back in place) Audrey Dorofee Software Engineering Institute Carnegie Mellon Univ. 412-268-6545 FAX: 412-268-5758 ajd@sei.cmu.edu Standard Disclaimer: All opinions expressed by me are my own, not SEI's From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!ehd.hwc.ca!not-for-mail Sat Jul 24 12:32:48 EDT 1993 Article: 20243 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!ehd.hwc.ca!not-for-mail From: mgoddard@ehd.hwc.ca (Michael Goddard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Venus Flytrap Problem Date: 23 Jul 1993 09:14:22 -0400 Organization: Health and Welfare, Canada Lines: 31 Message-ID: <22oo7e$9lq@m.ehd.hwc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: m.ehd.hwc.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Are there any venus flytrap gurus on the net? My son waited 3/4 of a year until a local store brought in a Venus Flytrap for him. After about 3 months of dutiful care, it is now smaller, the traps are vestigal at best and ends of leaves are turning black. It is not uncommon now for the new traps to grow to about 3 mm then start to blacken off from the outside. I looked up the beast in my admittedly old copy of Hortus Second and learned that it should be kept in about 1" of water ... and that was how it was kept. It is potted in soil that does look like a good mix of silt and sphagnum, again which was what Hortus recommended. It has been moved around a little, but not alot. It hasn't been fed a lot, maybe a few flies in the first week or so, but since then about a fly every 3 or 4 weeks. Now the traps are so small, it won't touch its food :-(. My son and I would really like to hear form someone with experience with ill flytraps. He's a tad unsettled over this ... understandably. Comments here, and, if possible, "cross posted" to e-mail to be sure I se them, would be appreciated. Thank you. ....[MIchael] -- B9, Environmental Health Centre, Tunney's Pasture, Ottawa, Ont, Canada, K1A 0L2 Voice: (613) 954-0169 * Fax: (613) 952-9798 From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!cci632!agc Sat Jul 24 12:32:49 EDT 1993 Article: 20244 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!psinntp!cci632!agc From: agc@cci632.cci.com (Anupama Chathampally - co-op) Subject: Daffodil question Message-ID: <1993Jul23.120916.16379@cci632.cci.com> Organization: [Computer Consoles, Inc., Rochester, NY Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 12:09:16 GMT Lines: 3 I went crazy and ordered 225 daffodil bulbs. I got a card from the company saying they would be mailed in october and to have the ground prepared where I intended to plant them when they arrived . They gave no indication of how the ground was to be prepared. Anyone have any ideas? I was planning on digging the holes and adding daffodil fertilizer when I planted them. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!almserv!duey!s5uagm Sat Jul 24 12:32:49 EDT 1993 Article: 20245 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!almserv!duey!s5uagm From: s5uagm@fnma.COM (Andrew Miller) Subject: Dutch Gardens Was: Brecks catalogue Message-ID: <1993Jul23.131631.17280@almserv.uucp> Sender: usenet@almserv.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: duey Reply-To: s5uagm@fnma.COM Organization: Fannie Mae References: Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 13:16:31 GMT Lines: 5 I'll second the vote for Dutch Gardens. The shallot "sets" I ordered last year were bigger/cheaper than the one in the grocery! - Andrew - From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!balsam!unca!strauss Sat Jul 24 12:32:49 EDT 1993 Article: 20246 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!balsam!unca!strauss From: strauss@uncavx.unca.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Hot pepper scale Date: 23 Jul 93 09:17:06 EDT Organization: University of North Carolina at Asheville Lines: 10 Message-ID: <1993Jul23.091706.1@uncavx.unca.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: uncavx.unca.edu There is an open-ended scale for hotness in peppers. I forget the name of it. When I lived in Texas, in the early 80s, I had a friend at the Weslaco gardens, and they were breeding "cooler" jalapenos. Either it worked, or I've gotten used to them. At any rate, Jalapenos rated about 10,000-20,000 on the scale. At the time, they said they had peppers up to 200,000. Habaneros are, I think, rated at about 100,000. Can anyone "clarify" these remarks? Bob Strauss From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!taco!roberson Sat Jul 24 12:32:50 EDT 1993 Article: 20247 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!taco!roberson From: roberson@eos.ncsu.edu (JAMES D ROBERSON) Subject: Re: Pickling Peppers Message-ID: <1993Jul23.123804.15513@ncsu.edu> Originator: roberson@water1.bae.ncsu.edu Sender: news@ncsu.edu (USENET News System) Reply-To: roberson@eos.ncsu.edu (JAMES D ROBERSON) Organization: North Carolina State University, Project Eos References: Distribution: na Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 12:38:04 GMT Lines: 40 In article , zack@austin.ibm.com (Dave Zack) writes: > > Hi All, > > I have a ton of Jalapenos and Serrano peppers that > I would like to pickle. Does anyone have some good > recipes or other things I can do with them. If you > have good salsa recipes, I will also take them too.. > Thanks a bunch...I will post a summary if I get a > bunch of answers. > > -- > Dave Zack (512) 823-9558 ===> zack@eureka.austin.ibm.com > ---------------------------------------------------------- I heat solution of 1 part white vinegar, 1 part salt water just to boiling. (How much salt? I dunno. Just some salt in the water.) At the same time I blanch the peppers in boiling water for about 1 minute and pack tightly in sterile quart jars. When I finish packing a jar I usually cram a couple more peppers in. I mean _pack_. I then fill the jars with the salt water/ vinegar solution, wipe rim and put on lid and ring. I leave these loose and process in water bath for 20 minutes, then tighten and remove to cool. I almost always put a bay leaf and 2-3 cloves of garlic in each jar before the peppers. I prefer the small mouth quart jars for this because the peppers kind of bunch at the top and hold each other in when you add the liquid. Some recommend piercing the peppers before packing so that more liquid is absorbed, but I usually don't do this. Over time the liquid will soak through anyway. If you blanch the peppers too long they will get softer. I done this with jalapenos 7 years (24 quarts one year), and anaheims and italian peppers last year and haven't lost any jars yet. (knock, knock). have fun jim From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!msc.edu!apctrc!apctrc.amoco.com!dlhanson Sat Jul 24 12:32:50 EDT 1993 Article: 20248 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!msc.edu!apctrc!apctrc.amoco.com!dlhanson From: dlhanson@amoco.com (David L. Hanson) Subject: Re: Fruit Trees Message-ID: Lines: 33 Sender: usenet@trc.amoco.com Organization: These are my opinions only! X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev Final Beta #7] References: <1993Jul20.164540.1@tesla.njit.ed> <1453300273@igc.apc.org> <22me5bINN9rf@CS.UTK.EDU> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 14:41:04 GMT Speaking of Millers, I bought two apple trees, two pear trees, and two sweet cherry trees from them this year. I also bought one pear tree and one apple tree from a local discount lumberyard. All of the pear trees are doing great, having grown about 2 feet so far this year. And the cheapie local apple tree has done very well. (I also have a two year old apple from a local nursery that is having a very good growing year.) But as for the Miller apples and sweet cherries, the apples were extremely slow to come out of dormancy and still have very little new growth. But at least they are alive which is more than I can say for the sweet cherry trees. These two trees, which were much larger in diameter than the pears and the apples, took longer than any of the rest to come out of dormancy. They both had lots of buds but only about 10-15 per plant every started to produce leaves, the rest just tried up. Then all there was a 4 or 5 leaf cluster at each of the 10-15 buds; no new woody growth. About two weeks ago, all the leaves turned brown. It is still green under the bark but I assume that both of these trees have had it. I don't know much about fruit trees but it seems to me that the Miller fruit trees all looked beautiful. For some reason, they (including the pears) were all very slow to come out of dormancy compared to my other trees and my cherry trees died. Miller will send me replace cherry trees next spring but I wonder if anyone has any ideas on what went wrong. Signature follows: "Jesus saith unto him, I am THE way, THE truth, and THE life; NO MAN cometh unto the Father, BUT BY ME." John 14:6 David L. Hanson Internet --> dlhanson@amoco.com Any opinions expressed are my own! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!att!bigtop!zuckuss!seb1 Sat Jul 24 12:32:51 EDT 1993 Article: 20249 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!att!bigtop!zuckuss!seb1 From: seb1@dr.att.com (Sharon Badian) Subject: Canadian Thistle = Musk Thistle? Message-ID: Sender: news@bigtop.dr.att.com (Netnews Administration Login) Reply-To: seb1@dr.att.com Organization: Bell Labs, Denver, CO. Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 14:02:28 GMT Lines: 16 Around here (Colordao) we try to eradicate Canadian thistle. Unfortunately, I can't find it in my book of wildflowers. I've found Musk thistle (Carduus nutans) which is actually from Europe and western Asia. If this is the same plant, why the hell do they call it Canadian thistle??? Just want to be able to recognize the offender if it crops up. >From the book (Audubon guide to North American Wildflowers, Western Region) it looks like Musk thistle (aka Bristle thistle, aka Nodding thistle) is the only one around here, i.e. no native plants that look like it. -- Sharon Badian AT&T Bell Labs - Denver seb1@dr.att.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!cs.uiuc.edu!vela.acs.oakland.edu!science-store.chem.wayne.edu!hwalden Sat Jul 24 12:32:51 EDT 1993 Article: 20250 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!cs.uiuc.edu!vela.acs.oakland.edu!science-store.chem.wayne.edu!hwalden From: hwalden@science-store.chem.wayne.edu (Heather Walden) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Venus Flytrap Problem Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 14:46:45 GMT Organization: Wayne State University, Science Stores Lines: 24 Message-ID: References: <22oo7e$9lq@m.ehd.hwc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.217.27.148 In article <22oo7e$9lq@m.ehd.hwc.ca> mgoddard@ehd.hwc.ca (Michael Goddard) writes: >been moved around a little, but not alot. It hasn't been fed a lot, >maybe a few flies in the first week or so, but since then about a fly >every 3 or 4 weeks. Now the traps are so small, it won't touch its >food :-(. >My son and I would really like to hear form someone with experience >with ill flytraps. He's a tad unsettled over this ... understandably. The only thing I know about Venus Flytraps is what I heard in biology class, and you probably already know this, but I mention it anyhow. The energy used by a Venus Flytrap to catch a fly is such that if it doesn't get one, the net loss is tremendous. This shouldn't be a problem if every time it snaps it gets a fly (or whatever) but if it doesn't get one with every snap, it could be a serious problem. My sister had one for a week and found this out the hard way. She starved it to death. (Of course it was only the $2 variety from the neat stuff table at the local nursery.) I'm not sure what to do about it, or even if this is your problem, but it's something to keep in mind. Heather Walden Wayne State University, Detroit, Michigan hwalden@science-store.chem.wayne.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!olivea!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM!shay Sat Jul 24 12:32:52 EDT 1993 Article: 20251 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!olivea!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM!shay From: shay@ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM (Shay Barsabe) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Snow Peas Date: 23 Jul 1993 15:04:28 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Mt. View, Ca. Lines: 10 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <22ouls$17s@male.EBay.Sun.COM> Reply-To: shay@ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM (Shay Barsabe) NNTP-Posting-Host: ebmandoc9.ebay.sun.com I know it's the wrong time of year to grow snow peas, but tell my peas that. However, I need help -- are these suckers really snow peas? They're coming out with multi-colored blossoms! Last year's snow-pea blossoms were all white. What am I growing here? Thanks all. -- Shay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!olivea!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM!shay Sat Jul 24 12:32:52 EDT 1993 Article: 20252 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!olivea!koriel!west.West.Sun.COM!male.EBay.Sun.COM!ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM!shay From: shay@ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM (Shay Barsabe) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Walking Stick Cabbage Date: 23 Jul 1993 15:06:00 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Mt. View, Ca. Lines: 8 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <22ouoo$183@male.EBay.Sun.COM> Reply-To: shay@ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM (Shay Barsabe) NNTP-Posting-Host: ebmandoc9.ebay.sun.com I know I saw seed for walking-stick cabbage in some catalog or other, but I can't seem to find the catalog. Anyone know of a source for these things? Thanks. -- Shay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!booth Sat Jul 24 12:32:53 EDT 1993 Article: 20253 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!cs.utk.edu!booth From: booth@cs.utk.edu (Heather Booth) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: roma tomatoes and watermelon Date: 23 Jul 1993 15:09:31 GMT Organization: University of Tennessee, Knoxville - CS Department Lines: 15 Message-ID: <22ouvbINN75r@CS.UTK.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: booth.cs.utk.edu Concerning Roma tomatoes: I am growing Roma tomatoes for the first time. When I touched some ones that looked nearly ripe they fell off. I put them in the house in the sun and they are still hard as rocks after about a week. Do they not ripen after picking? Are they hard as rocks when ripe? How should I harvest in the future? Concerning watermelon: We have 1 watermelon plant which is large and was healthy looking. Now the leaves near the stem are turning yellow. I haven't seen any signs of borers. Does anyone know what is wrong? Thanks, Heather Booth From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:32:53 EDT 1993 Article: 20254 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tomato problems FAQL Message-ID: <1993Jul23.102423.15060@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 23 Jul 93 10:24:22 -0600 References: <1993Jul22.171936.15049@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul23.083746.11898@adobe.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 7 Please, please, folks, the thanks are nice, but I *really* put it out to get some snide comments on omissions, bronx cheers on poor writing, etc. etc. That way we can make it a more useful listing.... Please consider yourself members of The Committee to Prevent FAQ blunders... Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!sage.cc.purdue.edu!ritchiek Sat Jul 24 12:32:54 EDT 1993 Article: 20255 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!sage.cc.purdue.edu!ritchiek From: ritchiek@sage.cc.purdue.edu (unknown) Subject: transplanting roses? Message-ID: Keywords: transplant roses Sender: news@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (USENET News) Organization: Purdue University Computing Center Distribution: usa Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 15:17:51 GMT Lines: 10 My mom has some roses that did not do exactly as she wished so she said she was going to kill them. I asked her if I could have them to plant at my place she is not in a real hurry to get them out so I could have until the spring when she wants to use the flower bed for something else. So when Should I move them? Any precautions to take? these are huge, can I prune them to move them? I don't think she has ever pruned them which is probably why she is having problems. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Karen Ritchie From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news Sat Jul 24 12:32:54 EDT 1993 Article: 20256 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!newshost.uwo.ca!news From: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca (Lance R. Bailey) Subject: Re: Venus Flytrap Problem Reply-To: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Organization: University of Western Ontario Distribution: na Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 15:45:26 GMT Message-ID: <1993Jul23.154526.17123@julian.uwo.ca> References: <22oo7e$9lq@m.ehd.hwc.ca> Sender: news@julian.uwo.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: cupoftea.ctrg.rri.uwo.ca Lines: 21 In article <22oo7e$9lq@m.ehd.hwc.ca> mgoddard@ehd.hwc.ca (Michael Goddard) writes: >Are there any venus flytrap gurus on the net? My son waited 3/4 of a >year until a local store brought in a Venus Flytrap for him. After >about 3 months of dutiful care, it is now smaller, the traps are >vestigal at best and ends of leaves are turning black. It is not >uncommon now for the new traps to grow to about 3 mm then start to >blacken off from the outside. i had a bunch of them as a kid, and all died after a short while. i really don't think that they are suited for tiny greenhouses such as the one which i bought (a clear cup inverted over a cup containing moss and soil). this spring i plan to move on to pitcher plants in the bog... and kiss my ant problem goodbye :) -- Lance R. Bailey System/Network Manager Robarts Research Institute NeXT/email: zaphod@ctrg.rri.uwo.ca box: Clinical Trials Resources Group fax: +1 519 663 3789 P.O. Box 5015, 100 Perth Dr. vox: +1 519 663 3787 x4108 London, Canada N6A 5K8 L'ETAT, C'EST MOE - All the world's a stooge -- New York Magazine From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!news.mentorg.com!mentorg.com!brucej Sat Jul 24 12:32:55 EDT 1993 Article: 20257 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!news.mentorg.com!mentorg.com!brucej From: brucej@mentorg.com (Bruce Johnson) Subject: Re: name this lawn pest Sender: news@news.mentorg.com (News User) Message-ID: <1993Jul23.155435.19524@news.mentorg.com> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 15:54:35 GMT References: <1993Jul23.085129.15212@sei.cmu.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: sunbeam.mentorg.com Organization: Mentor Graphics Keywords: Followup-To: Lines: 5 Sounds like what the raccoons do to our lawn. I always thought they were going after earth worms, but others (on this list?) have mentioned the possibility of grubs and other undesireable bugs. Bruce From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!caen!destroyer!news.itd.umich.edu!merit.edu!patmcg Sat Jul 24 12:32:55 EDT 1993 Article: 20258 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!caen!destroyer!news.itd.umich.edu!merit.edu!patmcg From: patmcg@merit.edu (Pat McGregor) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Brecks catalogue Date: 23 Jul 93 16:09:36 GMT Organization: University of Michigan Lines: 16 Message-ID: References: <22mj94$7l8@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: merit.edu heiser@wam.umd.edu (Mark Donald Heiser) writes: > I just received a catalogue from Breck's filled with lots of color > pictures of the bulbs they sell. Since I'm considering putting in > some bulbs this fall, I was wondering if the merchandise they sell > matches what's in the pictures. So any glowing testimonials out > there? any harsh criticisms? or would anyone suggest a different > outfit with a better buy for the money etc? thanks. At both of the houses I've owned, I've received large amounts of Breck's bulbs from friends and relatives as housewarming presents. I've never had a problem with them. They're pretty standard, as far as I can tell, but reasonable quality. pat From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!asuvax!ncar!noao!amethyst!organpipe.uug.arizona.edu!afone.as.arizona.edu!cary Sat Jul 24 12:32:56 EDT 1993 Article: 20259 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!asuvax!ncar!noao!amethyst!organpipe.uug.arizona.edu!afone.as.arizona.edu!cary From: cary@afone.as.arizona.edu (Cary Kittrell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Message-ID: <22p1sb$6j3@organpipe.uug.arizona.edu> Date: 23 Jul 93 15:59:07 GMT References: <1993Jul20.204543.29697@adobe.com> Organization: University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ Lines: 27 NNTP-Posting-Host: afone.as.arizona.edu Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:20259 rec.food.cooking:53532 In article djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) writes: > >By the way, if you see any "bean" references in pre-Columbus literature or >history, this is what they mean. Regular type beans came from America. > >For example, this is the bean that Pythagoreans refused to eat, thinking they >held human souls. In fact, Pythagorus himself is reported to have died >because of fava beans--not from eating them, but because he refused to cross >a bean field to flee pursuers when his town was sacked. > >(Kay. Please tell them I'm not making this up.) > >Dave Daulton Wow! Thanks. I had always wondered what `beans' meant before the European discovery of the New World, because I had read that _Phaseolus_vulgaris_ (sp? what do I know about biology; I'm just a programmer :-) ) originated in, I believe, Central America -- and that just about everything we think of as a "bean" is a variant of this species. I think pre-Colombian Europeans did have peas ("pease porridge hot...")? You learn something every day. Beans for $1000, please Alex... cary kittrell cary@as.arizona.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:32:57 EDT 1993 Article: 20260 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Canadian Thistle = Musk Thistle? Message-ID: <1993Jul23.113032.15065@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 23 Jul 93 11:30:32 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 33 In article , seb1@dr.att.com (Sharon Badian) writes: > Around here (Colordao) we try to eradicate Canadian thistle. > Unfortunately, I can't find it in my book of wildflowers. I've > found Musk thistle (Carduus nutans) which is actually from Europe > and western Asia. If this is the same plant, why the hell do they > call it Canadian thistle??? Canadian thistle (AKA Canada thistle) is Cirsium arvense. I'd say that the two don't look much alike, but my students might say they do... Where are you (geographically)? C. arvense is a rhizimatous perennial (underground runners), with stems 2-5 ft tall, grooved, branching only toward the top, slightly hairy when young and increasingly hairy with age. The leaves usually have crisped margins (up and down 3-D, like a frilled lettuce leaf), stickery margins, and a few lobes. The inflorescences ("flowers") are about 3/4" across (2 cm) or less, lavender, and lots of them clustered at stem tips. Bracts surrounding the infloresence ("fake sepals") are just pointed, not stickery. Canada thistles are somewhat variable, but this description fits most of 'em. C. nutans is a biennial, without the runners. It's a 3-6 ft plant with a stickery stem that is *densely* covered with short hairs. The branches start on the lower portion, not the upper portion, of the stem. "Flowers" are up to 2" (5cm) across, purple to lavender, often nodding, and the bracts surrounding the inflorescence (the "fake calyx") are spiny, too. Grab a Canada thistle, and you'll say "ouch". Grab a musk thistle and say "OUCH!". Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!leo!bhaile Sat Jul 24 12:32:57 EDT 1993 Article: 20261 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!leo!bhaile From: bhaile@leo.vsla.edu (Bess Haile) Subject: Re: Organic roses? Message-ID: <1993Jul23.155828.10608@leo.vsla.edu> Organization: Virginia State Library References: Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 15:58:28 GMT Lines: 45 sfisher@megatest.com writes: > In article <22kdfn$4ul@morrow.stanford.edu> Kathy Rehm Switky writes: > >Hello, > >My new home came with some old beautiful roses...beasts whose > >care is foreign to me. After perusing my trusty Sunset Western Gardening > >Book > >and other sources I'm left thinking I "should" feed them a systemic > >plant food/insecticide. But pesticides of all sorts offend my > >sensibilities. > >If I stick to my morals, will I lose my roses? > > > No, by all means, no! I have to admit after reading a Sunset book it's hard > to think of anything else except iccky petrochemical toxins, but I haven't > used that kind of stuff in years and years, and my roses are pretty good. > You don't say what kind of problems you're having with the roses, so I > won't offer any advice other than to say I think organic is worth it. > > I started using fish emulsion this year and the roses seem to like it as a > fertilizer, keep them watered (a good deep soak every 5-7 days is what mine > like, but they're shaded part of the day) and keep the flowers "deadheaded" > and they should bloom until winter. Then I prune them. I think even your > Sunset book will offer advice on pruning techniques that will be OK. I also > gave them some iron this year that they seemed to need, and controlled > the spring infestation of aphids with a bunch of ladybugs. > > Don't give in! > > --Kim Fisher (posting on Scott's account) > > -- > The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. > Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com Have grown roses for years...the ONLY thing I do is dig in a bag of cow manure in Feb. I have mostly old roses and and David Austins which are absolutely care free, blooming a lot and/or all summer till it gets up into the high 90's. But, I have two prissy hybrid teas and they take the treatment ok. I figure I can share some of the buds with the japanese beetles and the other stuff is easy to pick off. Best of all...you can cook and eat the roses with no fear. Keep the faith! Bess Haile EPL Champlain, VA From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utzoo!dciem!king Sat Jul 24 12:32:58 EDT 1993 Article: 20262 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utzoo!dciem!king From: king@dciem.dnd.ca (Stephen King) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Message-ID: <9824@dciem.dciem.dnd.ca> Date: 23 Jul 93 14:55:25 GMT References: <1993Jul20.204543.29697@adobe.com> Sender: news@dciem.dciem.dnd.ca Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Defence and Civil Institute of Environmental Medicine Lines: 20 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:20262 rec.food.cooking:53535 In article <1993Jul20.204543.29697@adobe.com> kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) writes: >Fava beans are big in Arab cookery, esp. Egyptian where they form the >basis of a classic dish whose name I can't quite remember. I'll look thru Falafel. While usually made from fava beans, chick peas are often substituted. If the falafel is green inside, then fava beans were used (most likely). On this continent, fava beans are generally used as animal feed. >my cookbooks and post a recipe. Yes, please do. Falafel sandwiches (pita bread w/cracked wheat, parsley, tomatoes and tahina sauce) are especially enjoyable. I have heard that the falafel is considered the staple food of the middle east; chock full of all important nutrients- it makes a great veggie burger. -- Se non e` vero, e` ben trovato ...{utzoo|mnetor}!dciem!dretor!king king@dretor.dciem.dnd.ca From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!sprengt0664 Sat Jul 24 12:32:58 EDT 1993 Article: 20263 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!sprengt0664 From: sprengt0664@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What's a taxonomist? Message-ID: <1993Jul23.114318.15066@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 23 Jul 93 11:43:18 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 11 Gary Hypes wrote: >Isn't a plant taxonomist someone who stuffs and mounts wild vegetables that >gardeners have hunted down and killed? Sounds like a "plant taxidermist" to me. (Kay, I hope you appreciate this. BTW, it's OK to keep sharing those jokes even though I read this newsgroup. I always have been easily amused, and I've gotten a kick out of some of them. I even shared several on the newsgroup alt.good.morning.) Timothy J. Sprengeler Student, University of Northern Iowa From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!rcm Sat Jul 24 12:33:00 EDT 1993 Article: 20264 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!rcm From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Hot pepper scale Date: 23 Jul 1993 16:42:29 GMT Organization: where? Lines: 53 Message-ID: <22p4dl$e1l@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: <1993Jul23.091706.1@uncavx.unca.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0.7] strauss@uncavx.unca.edu wrote: : There is an open-ended scale for hotness in peppers. I forget the name of it. It's called "Scoville units". : When I lived in Texas, in the early 80s, I had a friend at the Weslaco gardens : and they were breeding "cooler" jalapenos. Either it worked, or I've gotten : used to them. At any rate, Jalapenos rated about 10,000-20,000 on the scale. At Note there are two kinds of "Jalapenos", Tam Jalapenos, and just plain Jalapenos. Tams are rated at 2500 to 5000 Scoville units. : the time, they said they had peppers up to 200,000. Habaneros are, I think, : rated at about 100,000. Habaneros are rated at 100,000 to 300,000 Scoville units. : Can anyone "clarify" these remarks? Sure - it seems like about every two weeks I or someone else has to post the following (must be a lot of new folks here)! HOT PEPPER SCALE *** SOURCE (1) "The Great Chile Book" by M. Miller, scale of 1-10 (10 is hottest) SOURCE (2) Redwood City Seed Company, "HS" Hot Sauce scale, ounces of sauce that will be detectably hot with one ounce of chiles SOURCE (3) "The Whole Chile Pepper Magazine", Scoville Unit scale X1000, obtained by high pressure liquid chromatography ALL SOURCES: (d) dried, (f) fresh Aji Rojo, (1) 7-8.5 f, (2) 3500 d, (3) 30-50 f Anaheim, (1) 2-3 f, (2) 25 f Ancho, (1) 5 d, (2) 50 f Cayenne, (1) 8 d, (2) 2500 f, (3) 30-50 f Cherry, (1) 3 f, 3 d Chipotle, (1) 6 d, (2) 2500 d, (3) 50-100 f De Arbol, (1) 7.5 d, (2) 8000 d, (3) 15-30 f Guajillo, (1) 2-4 d, (2) 1300 Habenero, (1) 10 d, (2) 10000 d,(3) 100-300 f Jalapeno, (1) 5.5 f, (2) 400 f, (3) 2.5-5 f Pequin, (1) 8.5 d, (2) 20000 d,(3) 30-50 f Problano, (1) 3 f, (2) 135 f Rocoto, (1) 7-8 f, (3) 30-50 f Serrano, (1) 7 f, (2) 133 f, (3) 5-15 f Tabasco, (1) 9 f, (2) 10000 f,(3) 30-50 f Tepin, (1) 8 f, 8 d,(2) 50000 d Thai, (1) 7-8 f, (2) 6700 d, (3) 50-100 f Yellow Wax(1) 1 f, (3) 5-15 f From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!rcm Sat Jul 24 12:33:00 EDT 1993 Article: 20265 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!rcm From: rcm@col.hp.com (hpctdfc) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Walking Stick Cabbage Date: 23 Jul 1993 16:45:53 GMT Organization: where? Lines: 17 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <22p4k1$e1l@hp-col.col.hp.com> References: <22ouoo$183@male.EBay.Sun.COM> NNTP-Posting-Host: hpctdfc.col.hp.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0.7] Shay Barsabe (shay@ebmandoc9.EBay.Sun.COM) wrote: : I know I saw seed for walking-stick cabbage in some catalog : or other, but I can't seem to find the catalog. : Anyone know of a source for these things? Thompson & Morgan Inc. P.O. Box 1308 Jackson, New Jersey 08527-0308 1-800-274-7333 Walking Stick Giant cabbage (Brassica oleracea longata) Order number 779 (30 seeds) $3.99 Rick "no affiliation" Myers From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sat Jul 24 12:33:01 EDT 1993 Article: 20266 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Re: Growing potatoes in a plastic bag/container Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 16:53:23 GMT References: <1993Jul22.183756.22456@sunova.ssc.gov> Nntp-Posting-Host: hpdmd48.boi.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 10 I have a friend who is growing potatoes in one of those plastic, wrap-around "composters". I'm told it looks like a large sheet of black plastic swiss cheese (holes to aerate the compost, I guess); she just filled it up with compost and dirt and planted the potatoes near the holes so the leaves can grow out through them. Apparently makes the potatoes very easy to harvest. Can't attest to it personally, though. Gary Hypes From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Sat Jul 24 12:33:01 EDT 1993 Article: 20267 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Help! Potato Bugs! Sender: news@boi.hp.com (News Server Project) Message-ID: Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 16:58:36 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: hpdmd48.boi.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 15 Last night, while showing off my wonderful row of potatoes, I was shocked to discover a few bushes on the end covered with dozens of bugs who seemed to be decimating the leaves. The bugs look like oversized sow bugs, about the size and color of a cooked pinto bean -- reddish-brown -- with 3 or 4 black hash marks along each side. Are these potato bugs?? Colorado potato beetles? Any advice? They've only gotten 3 or 4 plants so far but it doesn't look like it will take them long to spread... Gary Hypes Please reply email if possible, but a posted response is okay too. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!cl27111 Sat Jul 24 12:33:02 EDT 1993 Article: 20268 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!cl27111 From: cl27111@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Christopher Lindsey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Need slides of prairie plants for database... Date: 23 Jul 1993 17:12:16 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 8 Message-ID: <22p65g$iid@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: <22nqgt$2g6@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: uxa.cso.uiuc.edu I should have included this in the original post... This is not being done through the University of Illinois, and is a project being undertaken entirely on my own, with no ties to the University system whatsoever. I'm sorry if this led to any confusion or misled anyone... Chris From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!msc.edu!apctrc!hawkings!hgo7!zdem0a Sat Jul 24 12:33:02 EDT 1993 Article: 20269 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!msc.edu!apctrc!hawkings!hgo7!zdem0a From: zdem0a@hgo7.hou.amoco.com (Donna Martz) Subject: Re: name this lawn pest Message-ID: Sender: news@amoco.com Organization: Amoco Corp. References: <1993Jul23.085129.15212@sei.cmu.edu> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 16:03:08 GMT Lines: 11 ajd@sei.cmu.edu (Audrey Dorofee) writes: >For all you knowledgable folks: I live near the woods in western PA and over >the past few days something has been coming out at night and digging little >holes in the lawn. These are usually 2 - 4 inches and very shallow, just the >grass/moss pulled up and out of the way. Right now my lawn looks like it's >been bombed by miniature planes! There are no tunnels that I can detect, just >these shallow holes. Whatever it is the dog is fascinated by the scent left >behind. Squirrels? From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU!wsl4m Sat Jul 24 12:33:03 EDT 1993 Article: 20270 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!uvaarpa!murdoch!kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU!wsl4m From: wsl4m@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU (W. Scott Laughinghouse) Subject: Re: How can I get my lawn a bit greener? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: University of Virginia References: <1993Jul20.152533.12748@pbhyb.PacBell.COM> <1993Jul20.142656.14949@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 16:53:11 GMT Lines: 14 If it is a real "NEW" lawn, (less than two years old) do not use a high nitrogen fertilizer. There will be too much leaf growth and not enough root growth. A good root system is the best thing for a lawn. It will handle stresses much better and will not require as much fertilizer in the future. Scott -- Scott Laughinghouse E-Mail wsl4m@virginia.edu {INTERNET} wsl4m@virginia.bitnet {BITNET} Just another nice day in the SHENANDOAH VALLEY !!!!!!!!! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!ccwf.cc.utexas.edu!daoffer Sat Jul 24 12:33:03 EDT 1993 Article: 20271 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!ccwf.cc.utexas.edu!daoffer From: daoffer@sleepy.cc.utexas.edu (Debora Offer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: fig trees Date: 23 Jul 93 13:00:47 Organization: The University of Texas at Austin Lines: 20 Distribution: na Message-ID: References: <93201.101522ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> NNTP-Posting-Host: sleepy.cc.utexas.edu In-reply-to: 's message of Tue, 20 Jul 1993 10:15:22 MST In article <93201.101522ICSAA@ASUACAD.BITNET> writes: All of this posting recently about figs has intrigued me. Should I plan to start a fig tree, how many years from planting -> bearing? I'm currently near Phoenix, but where else in the U.S. do they grow well? Sun or shade? Big trees or little ones? Information please. Thanks, Stefani Since you live near Phoenix there is one thing you should consider - water. According to one of my gardening books, figs require 10 gal of water a day to bear. I can believe it too because my fig tree has had green figs all spring but didn't keep them to maturity until I started watering the tree twice a week. -- Please reply to the following address. The old one (ccwf) is running at 4 times overcapacity! \__ __/ Debora offer@mamba.asg.arlut.utexas.edu \__ __/ T any opinions expressed are mine, not necessarily my employers T From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:33:04 EDT 1993 Article: 20272 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What's a taxonomist? Message-ID: <1993Jul23.130405.15072@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 23 Jul 93 13:04:05 -0600 References: <1993Jul23.114318.15066@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 18 In article <1993Jul23.114318.15066@iscsvax.uni.edu>, sprengt0664@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > Gary Hypes wrote: >>Isn't a plant taxonomist someone who stuffs and mounts wild vegetables that >>gardeners have hunted down and killed? > > Sounds like a "plant taxidermist" to me. (Kay, I hope you appreciate this. > BTW, it's OK to keep sharing those jokes even though I read this newsgroup. I > always have been easily amused, and I've gotten a kick out of some of them. I > even shared several on the newsgroup alt.good.morning.) 'S OK... I'm sharpening my red pencil for this fall... ;-) Those of us who collect are often called "hay balers"... A friend who's springtime refrain is "Gotta go make some plants two-dimensional!" was given a model John Deere Tractor with baling attachment when he left his last job... Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!cunyvm!rmccu Sat Jul 24 12:33:04 EDT 1993 Article: 20273 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!cunyvm!rmccu Organization: CUNY/UCC VM Systems Date: Friday, 23 Jul 1993 11:51:55 EDT From: Robert Chambers Message-ID: <93204.115156RMCCU@CUNYVM.BITNET> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Squirrels, Damn them all Lines: 14 I've been attacked by grey squirrels biting off whole ears of corn or just enough of them that the rest of the ear dies. I've tried tabasco spray - no luck Mouse traps w/ corn - no reduction in damage. I'm trying pellet guns next, then electrification, then thermonuclear warheads Has anyone gotten rid of squirrels ? Should I just not grow corn? Should I enclose the whole yard in chickenwire? Argh.... I hate them Robert From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 12:33:05 EDT 1993 Article: 20274 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.food.cooking Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Message-ID: <1993Jul23.130921.15073@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 23 Jul 93 13:09:21 -0600 References: <1993Jul20.204543.29697@adobe.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 12 Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:20274 rec.food.cooking:53552 In article , djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) writes: > For example, this is the bean that Pythagoreans refused to eat, thinking they > held human souls. In fact, Pythagorus himself is reported to have died > because of fava beans--not from eating them, but because he refused to cross > a bean field to flee pursuers when his town was sacked. > > (Kay. Please tell them I'm not making this up.) I think you're right, but I was always better on Roman and Egyptian history than Greek. Will check, but it sure sounds like Pythagoras... Kay From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher Sat Jul 24 12:33:05 EDT 1993 Article: 20275 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!megatest!mithril!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <2275s3$kcm@meaddata.meaddata.com> <1993Jul22.150615.18524@rchland.ibm.com> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 16:44:04 GMT Lines: 16 In article <1993Jul22.150615.18524@rchland.ibm.com> JamesWhite@vnet.ibm.com writes: >In article , tomm@cup.hp.com (Tom McNeal) writes: > >My wife was never greatly interested in canning, and since I raise a 4,100 sq ft >Is there anyone else out there (besides me) that has made marshmellows? >James White No, but I've always wondered how! I've got some junior sous-chefs here at home that would love to help me try if you would be good enough to post or mail a recipe. --Kim Fisher -- The mailer treats messages outside Megatest much the way Calvin treats baths. Don't trust its interpretation of the path; use sfisher@megatest.com From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!rbouffor Sat Jul 24 12:33:06 EDT 1993 Article: 20276 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!rbouffor From: rbouffor@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Robert W Boufford) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: name this lawn pest Date: 23 Jul 1993 20:48:43 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 13 Message-ID: <22pirb$h9o@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <1993Jul23.085129.15212@sei.cmu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: top.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Audrey, Good chance the holes are caused by skunks along with the possible mentioned racoons. Past experience has also seen the damage from crows. The cause of the problem is most likely grubs. Might also be army cutworm, which I hear is working it's way through this region. Best to start digging around the lawn yourself and look for any grubs or worms. If you find grubs, use whatever controls you feel appropriate. There are both biological and chemical controls available. Bob Boufford OSU Ag Tech Institute Wooster From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Sat Jul 24 12:33:06 EDT 1993 Article: 20277 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pictures of your gardens Message-ID: <1993Jul23.130301.1486@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 23 Jul 93 21:03:01 GMT References: Organization: - Lines: 17 In article , ceci@lysator.liu.se (Cecilia Henningsson) writes: > One thing about rec.gardens that irks me, is the way people tell you > about all the wonderful things they grow, but you never get to see it > for yourself. To remedy this, I've taken some photos of my garden > today, and I'm going to find a way to scan them and put them in one of > the pictures groups. I would love to see other people's gardens, so if > you have the opportunity, could you do the same thing with your > gardens? I'd love to see Jim's irises! > Tell, me how to do it and I'd love to. I always have a stack of pictures of my garden on my desk. I have a scanner down the hall. I have a PC that should be able to view other people's pictures. Now all I need is the smarts to put all these things together. Jim - (Not the one whose irises you are looking for. But I do have some great iris shots.) From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb Sat Jul 24 12:33:07 EDT 1993 Article: 20278 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!sdd.hp.com!network.ucsd.edu!calmasd!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Neglected shrubs: save or replace? Message-ID: <1993Jul23.130832.1487@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 23 Jul 93 21:08:32 GMT References: <1993Jul19.113024.14902@iscsvax.uni.edu> Organization: - Lines: 24 In article <1993Jul19.113024.14902@iscsvax.uni.edu>, sprengt0664@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > Back in the mid-1980's, my family moved into a house whose previous owner had > neglected the yard. There was an excessively overgrown privet hedge > surrounding the yard on two sides. (Actually, I think it would be more > appropriately described as a jungle.) > Anyway, in late November, after the bushes had gone dormant for the > winter, we got a hold of a chainsaw and spent almost the entire Thanksgiving > weekend cutting those buggers almost completely down to ground level. The next > spring, they grew back, and we were then able to maintain the hedge and keep it > pruned to the desired level. We didn't live there very long (less than three > years), but we never had any more difficulties with the hedge. > I don't know if this technique will work for all woody shrubs. If you > are unsure, you might want to take a branch sample to your local nursery and > ask the manager. This is how my family found out that privets could be pruned > in this way. > At Filoli on the SF pennisula they trim the yew hedges with a blade rigged to an airplane engine. The hedges and rows of yews are almost 100 years old and way overgrown. It still takes them several years to trim them all. They look like hell after they are trimmed, but they do come back. Jim From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!vm.cc.purdue.edu!MWORKMAN Sat Jul 24 12:33:07 EDT 1993 Article: 20279 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!vm.cc.purdue.edu!MWORKMAN From: MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu Subject: Canning answer Message-ID: <16C14D364.MWORKMAN@vm.cc.purdue.edu> Sender: news@mentor.cc.purdue.edu (USENET News) Organization: Purdue University X-Newsreader: NNR/VM S_1.3.2 Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 20:01:56 GMT Lines: 12 I remember awhile back someone asked about inverting the jar after it was boiled. Well, I canned some tomatoes last night (my first time), and I was following the directions in a book (Gourmet Preserves or something like that). It provided the answer to the inverted jar question. The author said that it serves two purposes (1) to test for leaks and (2) to allow the temperature of the hot liquid to kill any bacteria that might have been on the inside of the lid. I hope that answers the question. Maggie "who is now afraid to eat anything that she has canned" Workman From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Sat Jul 24 12:33:08 EDT 1993 Article: 20280 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.food.cooking,rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!uchinews!raistlin!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: What are Fava Beans? Message-ID: <1993Jul23.155146.26522@walter.cray.com> Lines: 24 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1993Jul20.204543.29697@adobe.com> <1993Jul23.130921.15073@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 23 Jul 93 15:51:45 CDT Xref: samba.oit.unc.edu rec.food.cooking:53575 rec.gardens:20280 In article <1993Jul23.130921.15073@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: |> In article , djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) writes: |> > For example, this is the bean that Pythagoreans refused to eat, thinking they |> > held human souls. In fact, Pythagorus himself is reported to have died |> > because of fava beans--not from eating them, but because he refused to cross |> > a bean field to flee pursuers when his town was sacked. |> > |> > (Kay. Please tell them I'm not making this up.) |> |> I think you're right, but I was always better on Roman and Egyptian history |> than Greek. Will check, but it sure sounds like Pythagoras... |> |> Kay What we call superstition often has some basis in fact. Certain people have a severe reaction to both ingested fava beans and inhaled fava bean pollen. I will dig it out of my wife's medical texts this weekend and post on monday. But I would imagine that a plant that killed a few people, made a few more sick and left the rest unharmed might spawn a lot of superstition. From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!sanger.bio.uci.edu!mspitzer Sat Jul 24 12:33:08 EDT 1993 Article: 20281 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!sanger.bio.uci.edu!mspitzer From: mspitzer@sanger.bio.uci.edu (Matt Spitzer) Subject: Re: Hot pepper scale Nntp-Posting-Host: sanger.bio.uci.edu Message-ID: <2C50611A.25676@news.service.uci.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Organization: University of California, Irvine Lines: 42 References: <1993Jul23.091706.1@uncavx.unca.edu> <22p4dl$e1l@hp-col.col.hp.com> Date: 23 Jul 93 22:07:22 GMT > >Note there are two kinds of "Jalapenos", Tam Jalapenos, and just plain >Jalapenos. Tams are rated at 2500 to 5000 Scoville units. There was a question here (that I accidentally deleted) about whether jalapenos are getting cooler. One possibility is that you are getting desenitized. In the process of getting used to hot peppers you can increase your tolerance to an incredible degree. For instance, just this afternoon we had salsa in the lab that was too hot for some people (and would have been too hot for me a few years ago) but was not even noticeably hot to me. >Sure - it seems like about every two weeks I or someone else has to post >the following (must be a lot of new folks here)! > >HOT PEPPER SCALE >*** > >SOURCE (1) "The Great Chile Book" by M. Miller, scale of 1-10 (10 is >hottest) >SOURCE (2) Redwood City Seed Company, "HS" Hot Sauce scale, ounces >of sauce that will be detectably hot with one ounce of chiles >SOURCE (3) "The Whole Chile Pepper Magazine", Scoville Unit scale >X1000, obtained by high pressure liquid chromatography > >ALL SOURCES: (d) dried, (f) fresh > >Cayenne, (1) 8 d, (2) 2500 f, (3) 30-50 f >De Arbol, (1) 7.5 d, (2) 8000 d, (3) 15-30 f >Habenero, (1) 10 d, (2) 10000 d,(3) 100-300 f >Serrano, (1) 7 f, (2) 133 f, (3) 5-15 f >Tepin, (1) 8 f, 8 d,(2) 50000 d >Thai, (1) 7-8 f, (2) 6700 d, (3) 50-100 f Thanks for clearing that up. So, is a habanero 2 units (Miller) hotter than a Tepin, or is a Tepin 5 times (HS scale) stronger than a habanero? Is a Serrano about as hot as a Thai (Miller) or is a Thai 10 times (Scoville Units) or 50 times (HS scale) hotter than a serrano? Is a Cayenne slightly hotter than a De Arbol (Miller), twice as hot (Scoville Units), or is a De Arbol 3 times hotter than a Cayenne (HS)? Matt Spitzer From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!news.mentorg.com!mentorg.com!kathyf Sat Jul 24 12:33:09 EDT 1993 Article: 20282 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!haven.umd.edu!uunet!news.mentorg.com!mentorg.com!kathyf From: kathyf@mentorg.com (Kathy Fetty) Subject: Re: Brecks catalogue Sender: news@news.mentorg.com (News User) Message-ID: <1993Jul23.234948.2098@news.mentorg.com> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 23:49:48 GMT References: <22mj94$7l8@cville-srv.wam.umd.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: sundog.mentorg.com Organization: Mentor Graphics Keywords: Followup-To: Lines: 19 I buy their tulips and daffodils. They usually have some nice packages, and the quality of the bulbs is better than Fred Meyer (a dept/grocery store in Western US). The cost is comparible to those found in garden stores. I've had them come back nicely year after year with absolutely no care. I bought some siberian iris from them once, and wasn't overly impressed. The crocus I bought were nice, but seemed expensive. I also bought a few lillies that have spread and bloomed nicely for 3 years. This year I ordered some hardy cyclemen. I like them because the quality is good and I often forget I ordered them, so I get MAIL in the fall!! The only thing I would caution you about would be: Don't let them put you on their mailing list and don't buy anything from anything that says SPRING HILL. Its a related company they sometimes send literature about and all I ever heard about them was no good. My neighbor bought some stuff from them and half of it never made it . From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Sat Jul 24 12:33:09 EDT 1993 Article: 20283 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!linac!att!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Re: Venus Flytrap Problem Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <22oo7e$9lq@m.ehd.hwc.ca> <1993Jul23.154526.17123@julian.uwo.ca> Distribution: na Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 21:21:28 GMT Lines: 9 I killed a few carnivorous plants, and gave up on them. But then I was at the home of a fellow gardener, and found hers growing great. Her secret? She had them in closed terrariums. Makes sense. Most are bog plants, bogs are humid, closed terrariums are humid. So, as for the needs of carnivorous plants, it's not just the meat, its the humidity. (No really, seriously.) Dave Daulton From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!csus.edu!netcom.com!lemay Sat Jul 24 12:33:10 EDT 1993 Article: 20284 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!csus.edu!netcom.com!lemay From: lemay@netcom.com (Killer of Trees) Subject: lots of newbie questions Message-ID: Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 23:36:03 GMT Lines: 55 I finally have rented a house with a yard. Two yards, in fact, plus a huge deck just begging for lots of containers. Ahhhh (insert happy noises here). I'm doing pretty well, so far (spending a king's ransom on plants, but I just can't help it) with a few exceptions. Keep in mind as you read this that I'm in California, in the SF Bay Area. 1. I have a half-barrel of herbs that are all doing spectacularly well, except the tarragon, which died immediately. I planted more in its spot and it died immediately. Why? The container has basic planting mix ("super soil"), watered regularly, and all the other herbs are growing like demons. Is tarragon sensitive to specific growing conditions? 2. I moved into this house in June, and rushed a vegetable garden into the back yard, which is doing pretty well so far (I'm in California, so I suppose I have longer a summer than most). Currently I have zuchini, cukes, tomatoes, roma and leaf lettuce, radishes, watermelon and three kinds of peppers all growing happily (no fruit yet). I still have space left over, tho...are there any late-harvest vegetables I could plant in that space this late in the season? 3. I dearly want rose bushes. When is the best time of the year to plant them? I'm assuming spring would be best. Are mail-order roses OK, or should I insist on nursery roses? 4. I bought a very small azalea and transplanted it into a nice clay pot. It promptly dropped all its flowers and won't bloom any new ones, although it has sent up some new leaves since I repotted it. Are azaleas prone to do this on transplant? Also I've heard that azaleas like acid soil. What should I add to the soil to make it more acid? 5. I have a small strip of soil by the front lawn that hostas would look great in. However, looking at teh few gardeneing catalogs I have, they're usually rated for zones 3-8, and I'm in Zone 9. Do Hostas need a real winter, or will they work in california? Are there hostas bred specifically for the california climate? Well, thats all I can think of...for now. :) Thanks in advance for advice.. Laura -- ********************************************************* Laura Lemay lemay@netcom.com writer of trifles in shadows and blood ********************************************************* From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!rutgers!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!NewsWatcher!user Sat Jul 24 12:33:10 EDT 1993 Article: 20285 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!rutgers!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!NewsWatcher!user From: nicmad!klebba@astroatc.uucp@cs.wisc.edu (Bob Klebba) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Sudden Lily Death Syndrome Message-ID: Date: 22 Jul 93 22:33:16 GMT Sender: usenet@nicmad.uucp Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation Lines: 29 Nntp-Posting-Host: mac1_20 Help! My bed of asiatic lilies has been attacked. Just as the flowers are starting to fade on the plants, the leaves are turning brown starting from the bottom. It looks like all of the plants are succumbing to a disease. My guess is that it is some sort of fungus. But I'm hoping that some of you might have some advice for me. Here are the exact conditions: * all the bulbs have been in the same spot for 3 seasons * the bed is 4' x 15' and is raised * the plants are rather crowded in the bed (bad air circulation) * the bed is located in a low spot in the garden (cool air collects at night) * a general purpose fertilizer was spread before the bulbs came up in April * manure was used as a mulch over the winter * there were no signs of anything wrong until about 10 days ago * the necrosis appears as a function of the bloom time * we've had LOTS of rain here this summer (very high humidity) Other lilies elsewhere in the garden are doing okay. Lilies in a bed 2' away are also suffering. Needless to say, I'm a little worried about these lilies I've been growing for the past 8 years. I do plan to transplant them and space them out some more, but if that's not going to stop what I'm experiencing, I'd like to know! Thanks in advance. Bob Klebba Nicolet Instrument Corp. Madison, WI, USA USDA zone 4 "Submit to Barney" From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpl-opus!walker Sat Jul 24 12:33:11 EDT 1993 Article: 20286 of rec.gardens From: walker@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com (Rick Walker) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1993 23:34:21 GMT Subject: Re: Venus Flytrap Problem Message-ID: <64820041@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com> Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpl-opus!walker Newsgroups: rec.gardens References: <22oo7e$9lq@m.ehd.hwc.ca> Lines: 71 Michael, > Are there any venus flytrap gurus on the net? My son waited 3/4 of a > year until a local store brought in a Venus Flytrap for him. After Here's the quick summary of a few possibilities: 1) It may be that the plant wants to enter dormancy. Let it go dormant. (keep drier & cooler) It'll come back in spring. 2) The pot may be too small and the roots are rotting. Repot in 4" or 6" pot in sphagnum peat moss. 3) Not enough light. Venus fly traps need nearly full sun. Don't grow them in a dark room. They are not "jungle" plants. 4) Too much teasing. Don't fool the traps. 5) Plant has been fertilized. This is deadly. Immediately repot in new soil mix. 6) Aphid infestation. Treat with Diazinon, Rotenone, or submerge plant underwater for a day or two. Now here's a more chatty discussion of cultural conditions: The best planting media is pure sphagnum peat moss, or peat and sand in various proportions up to 50/50. Attempting to grow the plant in most other composts is risky. Don't use garden soil or planting mix or you will probably kill your plant. If you buy your plant in some weird medium, like shredded fir bar, you should repot it ASAP. As the soil is broken down quickly by the constantly wet conditions, you should repot your plant every 2 years just before the start of the new spring growth. Venus Fly Traps (VFTs) have fairly long roots. Most commercial plants are sold in little 2 inch pots. The plants will not prosper for long in this size container. Use no smaller than a 4" pot, or even a 6" pot if you want the best growth. In smaller pots, the roots that hit the soggy bottom of the pot will rot and eventually kill the plant. The plants will also rot if grown in a dark, humid atmosphere. Grow them in bright light (even full sun). Water on the "tray method". Stand the pot in a saucer of distilled water, and keep about 1/2" of water in the tray at all times in the growing season. Don't use tap water! When grown in bright light, the plants appreciate a relative humidity 30% or above, so keep away from forced-air vents, etc. Finally, VFTs have a dormant period in winter and need to be exposed to shorter daylight times and cooler temps. In many parts of the U.S., they can be left outside during winter if sheltered from hard frost. During dormancy, the soil should be kept just barely damp to avoid rot. If you try to grow VFTs without a dormant period (like indoors under grow lights), it will decline and die after a couple years. When growth stops, reduce water, and let it go dormant. It'll come back again in spring. When you understand the needs of the plant, it will grow like a weed and reward you with strong, healthy growth, and lots of offshoots and flowers (if you let them develop). I should also mention that there is a carnivorous plant mailing list. Send mail with the message body: "SUB CP Jane Doe" to the address "listserv@jr.hpl.hp.com" to subscribe. Replace "Jane Doe" with your given name. You will receive info by email about the list and can then contribute to the discussion by mailing your postings to "cp@jr.hpl.hp.com". -- Rick Walker From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!emory!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet Sat Jul 24 23:41:20 EDT 1993 Article: 20287 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!emory!cs.utk.edu!cs.utk.edu!usenet From: farmer@cs.utk.edu (SUSAN FARMER) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Venus Flytrap Problem Date: 24 Jul 93 17:02:24 GMT Organization: Computer Science Dept, University of Tennessee, Knoxville Lines: 14 Message-ID: References: <22oo7e$9lq@m.ehd.hwc.ca> <64820041@hpl-opus.hpl.hp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: utkcs2.cs.utk.edu Truely excellent post on Venus fly-traps deleted. This was wonderful. Shouldn't/Couldn't it be the start of a FAQ on carniverous plants? Susan -- Susan B. Farmer farmer@cs.utk.edu Lady Jerusha Kilgore I can't even find time to clean house and you want me to come up with a .sig? B.A. in Computer Science ... Graduate Student in Botany From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpcc05!hpscit!billg Sat Jul 24 23:41:20 EDT 1993 Article: 20288 of rec.gardens From: billg@hpscit.sc.hp.com (Bill Gingras) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1993 15:00:10 GMT Subject: Powdery Mildew: HELP! :-( Message-ID: <75150001@hpscit.sc.hp.com> Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Santa Clara, CA Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpcc05!hpscit!billg Newsgroups: rec.gardens Lines: 24 I'm pretty sure I have powdery mildew on some of my plants. It seems to have started on the roses, and now has spread to a cosmo and a spaghetti squash plant. I bought something called lime-sulphur on the advice of a local nursery and have been using it on the rose bushes. It seems to keep the mildew from spreading, but doesn't get rid of it. Now, two days ago I noticed it is fully attacking the cosmo and the squash has white spots on the leaves. 1) Where does this stuff come from? How does it spread? 2) what am I doing wrong? I assume the plants must be weakened for the fungus to attack it. 3) Will the lime-sulphur kill the cosmos, which apparently has tender leaves. By the way, I water in the morning, not at night, but "the fog" does come in at night, so it's possible this is causing enough dampness for the stuff to grow. Please respond by e-mail, as I don't check into this group very often. (e-mail address billg@vid.hp.com) Thanks-a-lot!! -Bill G From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!channel1!matthew.handelman Sat Jul 24 23:41:21 EDT 1993 Article: 20289 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Build a cold-frame with Plexiglas? From: matthew.handelman@channel1.com (Matthew Handelman) Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!psinntp!channel1!matthew.handelman Distribution: world Message-ID: <40.11948.1545.0NE1741D@channel1.com> Date: Sat, 24 Jul 93 08:33:00 -0500 Organization: Channel 1(R) * 617-864-0100 Info * 617-354-7077 Modem Lines: 5 We are planning to build a cold-frame pretty soon. It's our first. Can we use Plexiglas instead of regular glass? It's much lighter and cheaper, but I've heard that it can get 'cloudy'. Matthew From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ac959 Sat Jul 24 23:41:22 EDT 1993 Article: 20290 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!ac959 From: ac959@Freenet.carleton.ca (Peter Martin) Subject: Post your zone Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Reply-To: ac959@Freenet.carleton.ca (Peter Martin) Organization: The National Capital Freenet Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1993 12:37:31 GMT Lines: 30 There's great stuff on this board, and I read it for pleasure as much as for information. But sometimes I can't figure out from the poster's address just where on the continent (or overseas?) their garden/garden problem happens to be. Wouldn't it be nice -- helpful, too -- if everybody posting here mentioned their location? Or at least their Hardiness Zone? It's interesting for me to read about problems with growing bananas, but not all that practical in Ottawa Canada (Zone 3, more or less). (Of course, I recognize that the zoning system is fallible. I just said I'm in Zone 3 --brr! -- but in fact the microcliamte in my garden might very well be Zone 5: in the heart of a heat-retaining city; fast-heating sandy soil; southern exposure with heat-reflecting brick behind.) Anyway, if you think of it, do say something about your climate when you post. Okay? Okay! Now I gotta go move the sprinkler. No rain to speak of here for -- what is it, three weeks now? It just hasn't made it across the Mississippi this year. Have a good garden. Peter. -- Peter Martin, in the heart of Sandy Hill Snailmail and visitors: #1-131 Osgoode St, Ottawa K1N 6S5. Phone and fax: (613) 237-4180 (fax midnight to 8am) Interests, etc on file. Toolbox access granted. Chimo! From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!af280 Sat Jul 24 23:41:23 EDT 1993 Article: 20291 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!af280 From: af280@Freenet.carleton.ca (Sandra P. Hoffman) Subject: Re: Does Canning Belong Here? Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Reply-To: af280@Freenet.carleton.ca (Sandra P. Hoffman) Organization: The National Capital Freenet References: <1993Jul22.150615.18524@rchland.ibm.com> <2242h7$9ka@meaddata.meaddata.com> <2275s3$kcm@meadda Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1993 15:38:32 GMT Lines: 20 In a previous article, james@rchland.vnet.ibm.com (James White) says: > >My wife was never greatly interested in canning, and since I raise a 4,100 sq ft >garden, I picked it up. I also enjoy wine and beer making. > >Is there anyone else out there (besides me) that has made marshmellows? > >-- > >James White > you have a recipe for home made marshmallows? i've been looking for a recipe for years. would you care to share your recipe. thanks. -- enough, or too much? sandra From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!destroyer!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier Sat Jul 24 23:41:24 EDT 1993 Article: 20292 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!uunet!destroyer!newsrelay.iastate.edu!iscsvax.uni.edu!klier From: klier@iscsvax.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Build a cold-frame with Plexiglas? Message-ID: <1993Jul24.185748.15098@iscsvax.uni.edu> Date: 24 Jul 93 18:57:48 -0600 References: <40.11948.1545.0NE1741D@channel1.com> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 23 In article <40.11948.1545.0NE1741D@channel1.com>, matthew.handelman@channel1.com (Matthew Handelman) writes: > We are planning to build a cold-frame pretty soon. It's our first. > Can we use Plexiglas instead of regular glass? It's much lighter and > cheaper, but I've heard that it can get 'cloudy'. Sure, but it will scratch and get milky looking, cutting down on the light transmission to the stuff in the coldframe (which can be critical in the short days of the year, esp. for those of us "reasonably close" to the poles...) Instead of plexi from the lumberyard, you may want to use some of the plastic "glazing materials" that have been developed especially for greenhouse use. If you've got a greenhouse supplier in your area, see if they'll sell you "scraps" -- or perhaps one of the local greenhouses has "scraps" that would be more than enough for your coldframe. I've also just used plain heavy vinyl sheeting from the rolls at the dimestore (the clear stuff that is right next to the "oilcloth by the yard")-- and tacked it to the wooden frame I'd made for the lid of the coldframe with 1x2's. Stapled a layer on the top and bottom of the lid (extra insulation) and used the same plastic for about 3 years before I had to replace it. I insulated the sides of the box with scrap styrofoam insulation (the 1.5" thick blue stuff), painted the outside of the box flat black and the inside was white. In USDA zone 4 (middle of Iowa) that got me lettuce well into January, and I replanted in late Feb for lettuce and cole crop seedlings. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!wupost!psuvax1!psuvm!aeg2 Tue Jul 27 23:30:59 EDT 1993 Article: 20293 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!wupost!psuvax1!psuvm!aeg2 Organization: Penn State University Date: Sat, 24 Jul 1993 23:20:09 EDT From: Message-ID: <93205.232009AEG2@psuvm.psu.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Canadian Thistle = Musk Thistle? References: <1993Jul23.113032.15065@iscsvax.uni.edu> Lines: 33 In article <1993Jul23.113032.15065@iscsvax.uni.edu>, klier@iscsvax.uni.edu says: > >In article , seb1@dr.att.com (Sharon Badian) >writes: >> Around here (Colordao) we try to eradicate Canadian thistle. >> Unfortunately, I can't find it in my book of wildflowers. I've >> found Musk thistle (Carduus nutans) which is actually from Europe >> and western Asia. If this is the same plant, why the hell do they >> call it Canadian thistle??? > >Canadian thistle (AKA Canada thistle) is Cirsium arvense. I'd >say that the two don't look much alike, but my students might say they >do... Where are you (geographically)? > >C. arvense is a rhizimatous perennial (underground runners), with stems > [deletions] >C. nutans is a biennial, without the runners. It's a 3-6 ft plant with > [deletions] > >Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI A few other identification pointers. Canada thistle grows in patches because of its spreading habit, while musk thistle can occur as a solitary individual. In its first year of life, musk thistle is a rosette, with the potential to reach diameters of 18-24 inches, depending on site. Canada thistle shoots do not grow as a rosette, and begin stem elongation after only a few leaves have expanded. Art Gover, Department of Agronomy, PSU From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!af280 Tue Jul 27 23:31:01 EDT 1993 Article: 20294 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!Freenet.carleton.ca!af280 From: af280@Freenet.carleton.ca (Sandra P. Hoffman) Subject: Re: Post your zone Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Reply-To: af280@Freenet.carleton.ca (Sandra P. Hoffman) Organization: The National Capital Freenet References: Date: Sun, 25 Jul 1993 02:01:39 GMT Lines: 23 In a previous article, ac959@Freenet.carleton.ca (Peter Martin) says: > > >Anyway, if you think of it, do say something about your climate when you >post. Okay? Okay! > >Now I gotta go move the sprinkler. No rain to speak of here for -- what is >it, three weeks now? It just hasn't made it across the Mississippi this year. >Have a good garden. Peter. >-- >Peter Martin, in the heart of Sandy Hill > Snailmail and visitors: #1-131 Osgoode St, Ottawa K1N 6S5. > Phone and fax: (613) 237-4180 (fax midnight to 8am) > Interests, etc on file. Toolbox access granted. Chimo! > has it really been 3 weeks? i had lost track keeping up with the peas and beans all of which have come in earlier this year by at least two weeks. but now that you mention it i have been watering rather alot lately. -- enough, or too much? sandra From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!network.ucsd.edu!rpierce Tue Jul 27 23:31:02 EDT 1993 Article: 20295 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!network.ucsd.edu!rpierce From: rpierce@chem.ucsd.edu (Roxanne Pierce) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Today's capsule portrait of Iowa Date: 25 Jul 1993 07:17:35 GMT Organization: Chemistry Dept, UC San Diego Lines: 25 Message-ID: <22tc2fINN2ri@network.ucsd.edu> References: <1993Jul21.114357.14980@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul21.152423.14989@iscsvax.uni.edu> <1993Jul21.164913.14994@iscsvax.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: chedccf0.ucsd.edu In article <1993Jul21.164913.14994@iscsvax.uni.edu> klier@iscsvax.uni.edu writes: > Oops... nearly forgot to add. Mr. Kelly, the artist, doesn't know his > corn morphology very well... he put naked ears where tassels belong. Some of us here in San Diego are abysmally ignorant when it comes to corn. Over the objections of my more gardening experienced (new) husband, (because he says corn isn't particularly fond of San Diego coastal weather), my daughter and I planted some corn. Just today (yes, we planted quite late), I was stunned to see silk tassels emerging from what I thought were simply side shoots on the corn. I had somehow gotten the impression that the corn was going to come (somehow) from the tall pollenish filled things on top. (He thought that was just terribly amusing.) So is there anything I can do about the colonies of ants that seem to have taken a liking for the corn? And is it possible that the reason some of the stalks have yellowed and fallen over in the middle is because I sprayed some pyrethrin on them to kill the ants? (You know, my husband is right--I *am* abysmally ignorant when it comes to corn!) Roxanne Pierce From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!prcbbs!pencycle Tue Jul 27 23:31:02 EDT 1993 Article: 20296 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!prcbbs!pencycle From: pencycle@prcbbs.uucp (PENCYCLE) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Pickling Peppers Message-ID: <4.UUL1.3#25429@prcbbs.uucp> Date: 25 Jul 93 07:07:34 GMT Organization: PA Resources Council Lines: 14 DOn't know how to pickle them, but I sure like to eat them. I have pickled some oriental peppers, or maybe it was a preserve with oil and spices. It was hot for years. Great for PROP activitiy. Just stumbled on to this as I try my first message on Internet. I hope you get this. I play for Media Rugby near Phila. small DIv III club. WOuld be glad to arrange a match however. Pepper eating that is, followed by fugby. My first contact a rugger - it figures. Media Rugby - 1-800-220-3520 =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- >>Email replies should have the following on the first line of message text: >> BTO: BioGrotz =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein.u.washington.edu!klliou Tue Jul 27 23:31:03 EDT 1993 Article: 20297 of rec.gardens Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!stein.u.washington.edu!klliou From: klliou@stein.u.washington.edu (Kan-Lee Liou) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Peony flower Date: 25 Jul 1993 10:36:34 GMT Organization: University of Washington Lines: 7 Message-ID: <22tnni$qbo@news.u.washington.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu My peony (not tree peony) got very few buds this year. Several buds were 'dried' and dead (I did water it). Therefore, I only got two flowers. Can anyone tell me how to make my peony more productive? or is it sick? Thank you very much. klliou@u.washington.edu From samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!h