From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!danniw Wed Feb 9 18:11:02 EST 1994 Article: 26091 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!sequent!muncher.sequent.com!danniw From: danniw@sequent.com (Daniella Wolfe) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: <1994Feb2.044150.17109@sequent.com> Sender: usenet@sequent.com (usenet ) Nntp-Posting-Host: family.sequent.com Organization: Sequent Computer Systems, Inc. References: <2ijj90$2qd@nntp2.Stanford.EDU>,<1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk> <1994Feb1.121839.3524@es.dupont.com> Date: Wed, 2 Feb 94 04:41:50 GMT Lines: 15 molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com writes: >The solution I came up with last year was to put bowls of antifreeze in >the flowerbeds. They only vivited my flowerbeds once more. Come to think >of it, I haven't even seen them in the neighborhood, and my flowerbeds >are really happy now. ----- Oh - great idea....let's just poison all the neighborhood animals...that'll cure the poop problem. Why didn't you just plug each cat with a cork? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!sgiblab!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson Wed Feb 9 18:11:04 EST 1994 Article: 26092 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!sgigate.sgi.com!sgiblab!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: starting veggies indoors - when? Message-ID: <29.2d4e0aa9@axolotl> Date: 31 Jan 94 20:10:18 GMT Sender: news@axolotl.omahug.org (UUscan 1.10) Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City Lines: 42 Trink_Downes@rand.org (Trijntje (Trink) Downes) writes: > Well, I'm confused. I was born and raised in California, and it didn't > *really* matter when you started seeds. Now, I live in northern Virginia, > and > we have this *snow* stuff happening. :> > > So. I want a veggie garden. I have a raised bed that gets moderate sun > and an > area I'm planning on using for squash-family-things that gets more sun. > The > outside seems so nasty now it's hard for me to plan... I think I should > start > tomatoes now, but when should I start these other goodies (and what > should be > started indoors vs. waiting for the outside to get nicer): > > broccoli > pumpkin > butternut squash > corn > lettuce (loose leaf and butter) > carrots > > can you tell I'm testing to see what I can get to grow? Obviously, we > want as > long a growing season as we can squeeze out of zone 7, so any help and > advice > is appreciated... IMHO, the best source of info about both when and how to start plants from seeds is _The New Seed-Starters Handbook_ by Nancy Bubel (ISBN 0-87857-747-5). *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Bob Batson bob.batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org "You're only young once but you can always be immature" Dave Berry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!cvsd.cv.com!sol!jhb Wed Feb 9 18:11:05 EST 1994 Article: 26093 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!cvsd.cv.com!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: It's Spring In California: Time For A Gardening Tip Message-ID: <1994Feb1.214041.1616@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 1 Feb 94 21:40:41 -0800 References: Organization: - Lines: 15 In article , jon@armory.com (Jon Shemitz) writes: > This is something I tried with great success last spring. Cutting the > tops off of 2 liter plastic soda bottles, poking a few holes in the > bottom, and then placing them over seedlings let me put plants like > basil, tomatoes, and peppers out much earlier. > > 1: The bottle was a simple, mechanical barrier that kept out the > slugs and snails and such. > > 2: The bottle acted as a sort of greenhouse, causing the seedlings > to really take off, well before they normally would. Sounds like a good idea, but how did you get water to the plants? Jim From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:11:06 EST 1994 Article: 26094 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!not-for-mail From: fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq Butt) Subject: Oh oh it's freezing ! Message-ID: <2ini3q$ann@engage.sps.mot.com> Lines: 19 Sender: news@oakhill.sps.mot.com (oakhill news) Nntp-Posting-Host: engage Organization: Motorola RISC Software, Austin, Texas Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 06:44:10 GMT OK, OK so I had the misfortune to pick the day before the *COLDEST* day so far to plant five roses (4 for a friend and 1 for me). It's now 18 degrees (!) outside and I am biting my nails off with worry. The newest rose has 6+ inches of mulch, a towel over it and a cardboard carton over it. All the other roses I have planted, either have just a cardboard carton or a towel over them plus the mulch. Is this sufficent? What is the best way to deal with these just-pre-spring freezes and newly installed bare-root roses? fmb PS: The new rose is "Rio Samba". Anybodt know how cold-hardy it is ? -- Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightest relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!network.ucsd.edu!cvsd.cv.com!sol!jhb Wed Feb 9 18:11:07 EST 1994 Article: 26095 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!network.ucsd.edu!cvsd.cv.com!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flowering Jade Plant Message-ID: <1994Feb1.215328.1617@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 1 Feb 94 21:53:28 -0800 References: Organization: - Lines: 20 In article , knickman@plains.NoDak.edu (Elena Knickman) writes: > > I've seen jade plants that flower, they are quite exquisite. Someone > posted a note saying that jade plants typically flower at the age of 10 or > 11 years. Mine's a bit young yet, but when the time comes, is there > anything special I can do to encourage it to bloom, watering, temperature, > hours of sunlight, etc.? > Jades are pretty common in here. Since it doesn't freeze, they grow them in the ground. Their bloom cycle is triggered by the shorter days of fall. Peek bloom time is Christmas through January. Jades that are in full sun and not too wet seem to bloom the most. They usually need to be over a foot tall to bloom. I'm not sure that age matters much. All this said, I have some in pots, in shade, that get way too much water bloom every year. Jim From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!network.ucsd.edu!cvsd.cv.com!sol!jhb Wed Feb 9 18:11:08 EST 1994 Article: 26096 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!network.ucsd.edu!cvsd.cv.com!sol!jhb From: jhb@cvsd.cv.com (Jim Bishop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Can I Compost Eucalyptus Leaves? Message-ID: <1994Feb1.220234.1618@cvsd.cv.com> Date: 1 Feb 94 22:02:34 -0800 References: Organization: - Lines: 13 In article , jon@armory.com (Jon Shemitz) writes: >>I seem to recall reading/hearing that some/all species of eucalyptus put > out herbicides, to reduce competition for water &c. Is this true? If > it is, is it safe to compost eucalyptus leaves, or will the result kill > my garden? > Euc leaves compost fine. I also use uncomposted ones for mulch. Snails and slugs don't seem to like to hide in them. You also can grow lots of plants under eucs. I find that drought tolerant plants or plants from Australia or New Zealand do best. Jim From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!newsserver.tasc.com!newsserver.rest.tasc.com!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:11:09 EST 1994 Article: 26097 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!newsserver.tasc.com!newsserver.rest.tasc.com!usenet From: peterj@rest.tasc.com Newsgroups: rec.railroad,rec.models.scale,rec.models.rc,rec.models.railroad,rec.gardens Subject: Archives Date: Tue, 01 Feb 94 11:43:48 PDT Organization: TASC Lines: 2 Message-ID: <2im11h$7sr@voltaire5.rest.tasc.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 147.81.48.63 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII X-Newsreader: NEWTNews & Chameleon -- TCP/IP for MS Windows from NetManage Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.railroad:29370 rec.models.scale:4358 rec.models.rc:18367 rec.models.railroad:7840 rec.gardens:26097 Where are the archives for this newsgroup? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn Wed Feb 9 18:11:10 EST 1994 Article: 26098 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn From: wvhorn@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (William VanHorne) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Full Shade Veggies? Date: 2 Feb 1994 13:01:04 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 18 Message-ID: <2io86g$4or@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <2igiqk$emc@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> <1994Feb1.170958.2713@hemlock.cray.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article <1994Feb1.170958.2713@hemlock.cray.com>, George Walter VandenBerghe wrote: > > >However if it is next to a patio, tuberous begonias >or impatiens might be more attractive in summer and >pansies will like the lack of many many freezes >and thaws in winter (some years here in Zone 7 (DC)) >pansies make very nice winter displays that are at >least 50% color over large areas (this isn't >one of those years!!)) I was hoping to avoid impatiens and pansies and such, but the more I look, the more I find that veggies/herbs in full shade don't do very well. Sigh. ---Bill VanHorne From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.csuohio.edu!dstewart.ulib.csuohio.edu!DStewart Wed Feb 9 18:11:12 EST 1994 Article: 26099 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.csuohio.edu!dstewart.ulib.csuohio.edu!DStewart From: DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) Subject: David Austin books Message-ID: Sender: news@news.csuohio.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Cleveland State University Library References: <2h2som$3rj@gap.cco.caltech.edu> ,<1994Jan31.222918.1@eagle.wesleyan.edu> <2imih5INNggf@charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu> Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 13:33:33 GMT Lines: 15 Well, since we poor unfortunate northerners are all reduced to poring over printed matter, let me venture to ask a question about books. Has anyone seen *both* "David Austin's Old Roses and English Roses" *and* "English Roses", also by David Austin? According to Books in Print, they were published in the same year--what's the deal? Every bookstore in town has offered to special order thm for me, and although I would glady buy both if I were sure they were significantly different, I don't want to part with that much money for non-organic matter only to end up with duplicates. Thanks for any insight--and please, keep the DA reports coming--I'm starting a rose garden from scratch and intend to profit from your collected virtual wisdom! -donna From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.csuohio.edu!dstewart.ulib.csuohio.edu!DStewart Wed Feb 9 18:11:13 EST 1994 Article: 26100 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.csuohio.edu!dstewart.ulib.csuohio.edu!DStewart From: DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) Subject: lost in space! Message-ID: Sender: news@news.csuohio.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Cleveland State University Library Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 13:40:57 GMT Lines: 6 Help! I've sent the same message to this group three times and it looks as if it's bouncing back to me! If anyone sees this message, or a question about David Austin books, would you please take a second to let me know I'm getting through? thanks--donna From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!krtbrown Wed Feb 9 18:11:14 EST 1994 Article: 26101 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!krtbrown From: krtbrown@csn.org (Kurt Brown) Subject: Giberelic Acid? Is it safe? Message-ID: Sender: news@csn.org (The Daily Planet) Nntp-Posting-Host: teal.csn.org Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc. X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 13:54:42 GMT Lines: 15 I have some very old seeds (8-9 years) that I can't seem to germinate. I have heard that Giberelic acid can help encourage germination. Is this safe to do on edible plants? How much should I use? Any negative side affects? Any better alternatives. I have two plant types I'm working with. One is an heirloom corn and the other is sage. I am told that they are old heirloom varieties. Thanks for your help! Regards, Kurt Brown krtbrown@csn.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ncrgw2.ncr.com!ncrhub2!jupiter.WichitaKS.NCR.COM!news Wed Feb 9 18:11:15 EST 1994 Article: 26102 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ncrgw2.ncr.com!ncrhub2!jupiter.WichitaKS.NCR.COM!news From: tsnider@WichitaKS.NCR.COM (Tim Snider) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gardening magazines Date: 2 Feb 1994 13:42:11 GMT Organization: NCR Corporation Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2ioajk$9e@jupiter.WichitaKS.NCR.COM> References: <1994Jan31.224851.1@eagle.wesleyan.edu> Reply-To: tsnider@WichitaKS.NCR.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: helios_fddi.wichitaks.ncr.com Keywords: Rodale Press A while ago (10 - 15) yrs. Rodale press drastically changed the focus of all their magazines. They used to have lots of no nonsense articles full of useful information for the knowledgeable person. Since the focus change they have strictly concentrated on the 'mass market' and ignored the old audience. We used to subscribe to both O.G. and Bicycling. We dropped Bicycling first after their commercial shift, and then dropped OG 5 or 6 years ago. It seemed to commerical and the the articles had lost most of their informational content. We really like National Gardening. They are semi commercial (glossy 4 color etc.) but their articles have lots of useful information in them. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!news.cs.indiana.edu!babbage.ece.uc.edu!ucunix.san.uc.edu!ucunix.san.uc.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:11:16 EST 1994 Article: 26103 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!news.cs.indiana.edu!babbage.ece.uc.edu!ucunix.san.uc.edu!ucunix.san.uc.edu!not-for-mail From: peterson@ucunix.san.uc.edu (John M. Peterson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Propogating English Ivy... Date: 2 Feb 1994 09:59:48 -0500 Organization: University of Cincinnati Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2iof54$cn9@ucunix.san.uc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ucunix.san.uc.edu Ivy is very easy to propogate: just slip a 4 - 6" cutting into the ground leaving 1 or 2 buds/leaves exposed. The only hard part is to keep the ground moist! for the next 6 - 8 weeks when new growth should begin, indicating root formation. This means daily watering, and at least weekly after rooting for the first year. Start any time, insitu, and replace any cutting that may die back. Good luck. jmp From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!email.psu.edu!dak2 Wed Feb 9 18:11:16 EST 1994 Article: 26104 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!email.psu.edu!dak2 From: dak2@psu.edu (David A. Kolasa) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 15:58:54 GMT Organization: OAS Lines: 39 Message-ID: References: <2ijj90$2qd@nntp2.Stanford.EDU>,<1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk> <1994Feb1.121839.3524@es.dupont.com> <1994Feb2.044150.17109@sequent.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: atsc10.oas.psu.edu X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] >----- >Why didn't you just plug each cat with a cork? After reading all the responses to the cat crap problem several things seem to be consistent: Cat owners who let their cat out do not regard themselves as irresponsible pet owners even though their neighbors are repelled by cat crap. They think the neighbors should get a warm fuzzy 'love that pet' feeling while watching their well cared for garden being fouled by Fido or Fluffy. Gardeners who want to keep cats out don't have a really good solution. If one tries to protect one's property from the excrement of irresponsible pet owners is expected to shoulder the expense with NO help from the pet owner. I have neighbors who have 3 dogs and 2 cats on a 1/4 acre lot. I've watched these people watch their animals crapping on neighbor's yards and then petting them on the heads saying 'good doggie'. Complaining to these people has gotten me nothing more than curses and dirty looks. The only solution which seems to have any promise is to raise the cost of a dog/cat license to about $500/pet/year and to impose a large fine ( $250 - $500 sounds about right ) on anyone whose pet is found running loose or crapping in a neighbor's yard. A time/date stamped photo of the animal should be considered legal evidence. Let those who LOVE pets so much prove it with their wallets. Irresponsible pet owners should carry a social stigma equal to that of a human who craps on his/her neighbor's yard. And pet owners should realize that their animals are a burden on the rest of the community. My back yard opens onto a floodplain area where lots of wild critters (rabbits, ground hogs, birds) nest. There isn't a day goes by when a group of neighborhood 'pets' can't be found digging the wild animals out of their holes and ripping them apart. Ever witnessed a cat slowly tearing apart a baby bird? Or a group of dogs who've caught some small mammal? The owners of these 'pets' probably think of themselves as great animal lovers. What are they really? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.csuohio.edu!dstewart.ulib.csuohio.edu!DStewart Wed Feb 9 18:11:17 EST 1994 Article: 26105 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.csuohio.edu!dstewart.ulib.csuohio.edu!DStewart From: DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) Subject: test Message-ID: Sender: news@news.csuohio.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Cleveland State University Library Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 15:58:45 GMT Lines: 1 test From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!ncrgw2.ncr.com!ncrhub2!ncratl!ncratl.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM!jeff.west Wed Feb 9 18:11:18 EST 1994 Article: 26106 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!ncrgw2.ncr.com!ncrhub2!ncratl!ncratl.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM!jeff.west From: jeff.west@atlantaga.ncr.com (Jeff West) Subject: Good Mail order source of perennials and ground covers? Message-ID: Sender: root@ncratl.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM Nntp-Posting-Host: jwest.atlantaga.ncr.com Organization: NCR X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev Final Beta #7] Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 13:32:13 GMT Lines: 13 Does anyone know of a good source for perennials and ground covers? Specifically interested in Rhododendrens, Mountain Laurel, Moss Phlox, Liriope, and Dianthus (both low types and Carnations) for perennials and a wide range of ground covers from ornamental to traffic hardy. I prefer large plants and live slightly north of Atlanta, Ga. Also as long as I'm asking how about a source for bulbs, specifically crocus, iris, lilies, (I wish tulips were not annuals here), and hyacinth. I will post a summary for inclusion in the catalog FAQ. Thanks so much for your help. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!sgiblab!pacbell.com!att-out!nntpa!bigtop!drski!dpt Wed Feb 9 18:11:19 EST 1994 Article: 26107 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!sgiblab!pacbell.com!att-out!nntpa!bigtop!drski!dpt From: dpt@drski.dr.att.com (NN2414200-ThomasDP(DR6871)412) Subject: Native Grasses Message-ID: Keywords: In Need of an Expert Sender: news@bigtop.dr.att.com (Netnews Administration Login) Organization: AT&T Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 15:56:25 GMT Lines: 31 I'm tired of trying to maintain a bluegrass lawn in a semi-arid climate (the Colorado Front Range gets an average annual rainfall of 14 in.). We hired a landscape designer to xeriscape our new house and told him to put in a small yard with native (or drought-resistant) grasses. We've decided on a combination of blue grama and buffalo grass. I don't really care that this combination will create a lawn that's not as green or as soft as bluegrass. We're trying to create a look that compliments the natural environment. Since we are implementing the design ourselves, I sent away for a seed catalog (Sharp Bros. Seed Co.) The catalog lists four different varieties of buffalo grass - Sharp's Improved, Commanche, Texoka, and Bison. The Sharp's Improved is seed soaked in potassium nitrate to cause faster germination. Also, the blue grama has two different varieties - Lovington and Hachita. Does anyone out there know the difference between these varieties and have any opinions about them? Diane Thomas att!druak!dsp From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm Wed Feb 9 18:11:20 EST 1994 Article: 26108 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm From: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (Tom Dugan) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: Sender: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (SSGM) Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC References: <2ijj90$2qd@nntp2.Stanford.EDU>,<1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk> <1994Feb1.121839.3524@es.dupont.com> <1994Feb2.044150.17109@sequent.com> Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 16:32:57 GMT Lines: 62 In article , dak2@psu.edu (David A. Kolasa) writes: |> |> >----- |> |> >Why didn't you just plug each cat with a cork? |> |> After reading all the responses to the cat crap problem several things seem to |> be consistent: |> |> Cat owners who let their cat out do not regard themselves as irresponsible pet |> owners even though their neighbors are repelled by cat crap. They think |> the neighbors should get a warm fuzzy 'love that pet' feeling while watching |> their well cared for garden being fouled by Fido or Fluffy. |> Who made you God that you're so sure what all pet owners think? It's clear you've got a problem with your neighbors. Don't include me in that list, Bud, 'cause I ain't on it. |> Gardeners who want to keep cats out don't have a really good solution. If one |> tries to protect one's property from the excrement of irresponsible pet owners |> is expected to shoulder the expense with NO help from the pet owner. |> I happen to be a gardener and cat owner and have no problems with my neighbors. My cats DO go in my yard and that's something I deal with. |> I have neighbors who have 3 dogs and 2 cats on a 1/4 acre lot. I've watched |> these people watch their animals crapping on neighbor's yards and then petting |> them on the heads saying 'good doggie'. Complaining to these people has gotten |> me nothing more than curses and dirty looks. |> |> The only solution which seems to have any promise is to raise the cost of a |> dog/cat license to about $500/pet/year and to impose a large fine ( $250 - |> $500 sounds about right ) on anyone whose pet is found running loose or |> crapping in a neighbor's yard. A time/date stamped photo of the animal should |> be considered legal evidence. |> |> Let those who LOVE pets so much prove it with their wallets. Irresponsible pet |> owners should carry a social stigma equal to that of a human who craps on |> his/her neighbor's yard. And pet owners should realize that their animals are |> a burden on the rest of the community. All of them? |> |> My back yard opens onto a floodplain area where lots of wild critters |> (rabbits, ground hogs, birds) nest. There isn't a day goes by when a group of |> neighborhood 'pets' can't be found digging the wild animals out of their holes |> and ripping them apart. Ever witnessed a cat slowly tearing apart a baby bird? |> Or a group of dogs who've caught some small mammal? The owners of these 'pets' |> probably think of themselves as great animal lovers. What are they really? Ever see an owl get hold of a baby bird or mouse? Do you have a clue what goes on in the natural world? Do you suppose that if these animals weren't pets they'd behave any differently? In fact, the answer to that is YES: it'd be worse. Deal with your neighbors, but leave off labelling all pet owners as irresponsible. Note: don't look for smileys - there aren't any. -- Tom Dugan - Naval Research Laboratory, Washington, DC ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly Wed Feb 9 18:11:21 EST 1994 Article: 26109 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Container Water Gardens- Do they really work?! Date: 2 Feb 1994 16:36:36 GMT Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena Lines: 16 Message-ID: <2iokqk$ei7@gap.cco.caltech.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu I was at my local Smith and Hawkins shop yesterday, and they had *beautiful* containers for water gardens (or really anything I suppose,) for sale. Low and wide was the shape. I have seen 'complete' (few plants and a water lily and the plastic pot,) water gardens for sale, and wonder if they really DO work...?! What are the potential problems? Do *all* water lilies need full sun to bloom well? This would be for a patio or near patio in Zone 10 where it never freezes and we rarely get frost (just so that you know what the plants would be dealing with...) Any recommended books or reading for container water gardens? Any good catalogs with plant suggestions that would be suitable?? Is there a minimal 'workable' size? (They had several sizes from smallish to largish for sale.) Thank you in advance!!! Kelly kelly@cco.caltech.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!emr1!vallille Wed Feb 9 18:11:22 EST 1994 Article: 26110 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!emr1!vallille From: vallille@emr1.emr.ca (Roy Vallillee) Subject: Re: scales on orchids Message-ID: <1994Feb2.173039.18373@emr1.emr.ca> Organization: Natural Resources Canada, Ottawa X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <3740095@hpcc01.corp.hp.com> Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 17:30:39 GMT Lines: 37 Cynthia Zee (zeec@hpcc01.corp.hp.com) wrote: : Help! Our orchids (mostly cymbidiums) are under attack by scales. : We discovered these insidious creatures several months ago, and : by then, the plants had quite a few of them. We found that we : could get rid of most of them by simply pulling a damp cloth : along the leaves. However, the problem now is that they have : infested the bulbs where they are impossible to get at physically. : The scales seem to be pretty impervious to insecticides that are : compatible with orchids once they have developed their waxy shells. : Does anyone out there have a good plan to rid us of these pests? : Thanks in advance, : Cynthia & Warren A couple of suggestions, a weak solution of rubbing alcohol sprayed with a mist bottle. Safer soap will also work. You must continue every few days for a couple of weeks in order to get those which were eggs. something much stronger but strongly suggested that you do it outside is "Cygon" but it is extremely powerful, must be outside. Read instructions very carefully. I even suggest you contact the subscribe group I describe below before you do this, it may damage cymbidiums, I am not sure I do not grow any, I grow Phals and paphs. An added note is there is a BBS service where only orchids are discussed, I am not sure if you know about it. You can subscribe by sending the mail command to ORCHIDS@SCUACC.SCU.EDU and in the subject line, type SUBSCRIBE ORCHIDS. >From there you will get mail notices on discussions only on orchids. If you are not familiar with subscriber groups, email me I will be glad to explain further. This group is great for any orchid grower and they would have very good responses to your questions. ROY -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!morrow.stanford.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:11:23 EST 1994 Article: 26111 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!morrow.stanford.edu!not-for-mail From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullys Maze) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: plants that repel cats Date: 2 Feb 1994 09:53:19 -0800 Organization: Stanford University Lines: 64 Sender: news@morrow.stanford.edu Message-ID: <2iopaf$slf@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu : dak2@psu.edu (David A. Kolasa) writes: Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! >----- >Why didn't you just plug each cat with a cork? After reading all the responses to the cat crap problem several things seem to be consistent: Cat owners who let their cat out do not regard themselves as irresponsible pet owners even though their neighbors are repelled by cat crap. They think the neighbors should get a warm fuzzy 'love that pet' feeling while watching their well cared for garden being fouled by Fido or Fluffy. Gardeners who want to keep cats out don't have a really good solution. If one tries to protect one's property from the excrement of irresponsible pet owners is expected to shoulder the expense with NO help from the pet owner. I have neighbors who have 3 dogs and 2 cats on a 1/4 acre lot. I've watched these people watch their animals crapping on neighbor's yards and then petting them on the heads saying 'good doggie'. Complaining to these people has gotten me nothing more than curses and dirty looks. The only solution which seems to have any promise is to raise the cost of a dog/cat license to about $500/pet/year and to impose a large fine ( $250 - $500 sounds about right ) on anyone whose pet is found running loose or crapping in a neighbor's yard. A time/date stamped photo of the animal should be considered legal evidence. Let those who LOVE pets so much prove it with their wallets. Irresponsible pet owners should carry a social stigma equal to that of a human who craps on his/her neighbor's yard. And pet owners should realize that their animals are a burden on the rest of the community. My back yard opens onto a floodplain area where lots of wild critters (rabbits, ground hogs, birds) nest. There isn't a day goes by when a group of neighborhood 'pets' can't be found digging the wild animals out of their holes and ripping them apart. Ever witnessed a cat slowly tearing apart a baby bird? Or a group of dogs who've caught some small mammal? The owners of these 'pets' probably think of themselves as great animal lovers. What are they really? ---------------------- David, you hit the nail right on the head! I couldn't have stated it much better. I think the worst offenders are those that live in semi rural areas-they think their animals have a "right" to run free and enjoy the country. These areas are also the ones where there are native birds and small mammals trying to survive. Well fed pets are have an unfair advantage as they are well fed and definately not part of the natural food chain. I'm tired of trying to explain that yes, I do love dogs and cats-but am totally fed up with uncontained pets. So this is not just a flame war, I do have a practical suggestion: Go to sears and buy a humane raccoon trap. Set it every night with cat food. The cats that have a collar and tag or you know where they live either take home to the owners and explain the problem. Or give the cat a cold shower-he won't be back in your yard! Any cats that are semi wild or unknown, take right to animal control.For those of you who think this is drastic, maybe you don't have kids playing in the garden From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!netcomsv!netcom.com!robin Wed Feb 9 18:11:24 EST 1994 Article: 26112 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!netcomsv!netcom.com!robin From: robin@netcom.com (Robin Rosenberg) Subject: Re: Help! Rose borers! Message-ID: Organization: The Rosenberg Group, Sunnyvale, CA References: <1994Feb1.222604.7169@fsl.noaa.gov> Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 17:49:16 GMT Lines: 17 There are a couple of things you can do to help stop those cane borers: when I prune, I seal the cuts with Elmer's glue. This keeps them from being able to drill through that nice white pith. I generally seal the cut ends on anything that's the diameter of a pencil or bigger. (The drawback to using glue is that it can wash off in the rain, and you'll have to reseal until new growth sprouts.) The other choice is to seal the ends with something like tree seal (black stuff used on tree cuts). Some rosarians think very highly of this practice. If you choose tree seal, make sure that you use it on your larger canes, since it has a tendency to burn smaller growth. Good luck! -- Robin Rosenberg robin@netcom.com "Growing roses makes every day seem like Valentine's Day." From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.cs.columbia.edu!news.columbia.edu!ciao.cc.columbia.edu!adm1 Wed Feb 9 18:11:25 EST 1994 Article: 26113 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.cs.columbia.edu!news.columbia.edu!ciao.cc.columbia.edu!adm1 From: adm1@ciao.cc.columbia.edu (A Deborah Malmud) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: growing parsley Date: 2 Feb 1994 18:18:02 GMT Organization: Columbia University Lines: 11 Message-ID: <2ioqoq$6st@apakabar.cc.columbia.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ciao.cc.columbia.edu Cc: I have planted parsley seeds in three pots. I did not soak the seeds for 24 hours before planting them (as was recommended). The directions on the package are not clear as to how much they should be watered, how much sun to get, etc. Can anyone give me some suggestions. Also, my windowsill is right above a radiator and I'm worried about the heat. Might this be a problem? How long will it take for me to see some shoots? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!relay!starfleet.nswc.navy.mil!jakirwi Wed Feb 9 18:11:26 EST 1994 Article: 26114 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!relay!starfleet.nswc.navy.mil!jakirwi From: jakirwi@starfleet.nswc.navy.mil (Jean Kirwin) Subject: Seedling Problem Message-ID: <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> Sender: news@relay.nswc.navy.mil Organization: Naval Surface Warfare Center Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 18:11:13 GMT Lines: 11 I have experienced a repeated problem with starting plants from seeds. Most often, the sprouts reach a length of about an inch and a half and they begin to slant over. Eventually, most of them end up completely on their side and dead. What is happening and what can I do to prevent this? I'm sure I am not overwatering/underwatering. Jean From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins Wed Feb 9 18:11:27 EST 1994 Article: 26115 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins From: jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Date: 2 Feb 1994 20:04:34 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 14 Message-ID: <2ip10i$6qb@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Jean Kirwin wrote: > >I have experienced a repeated problem with starting plants from seeds. ... Sounds like they're "leggy." You've got to get the shop light or the grow-light source down as close to soil level as possible after your seedlings have germinated, and then move the light source higher as necessary so that the bulbs are always just about touching the plants (watch out for leaf scorch though). I allow my seedlings a lights off rest period of 6-8 hours during the night. Also, watch excessive heat (after germination) and hold off fertilizing young tender seedlings. Jim From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!eff!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk Wed Feb 9 18:11:29 EST 1994 Article: 26116 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!eff!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk From: mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Date: 2 Feb 1994 21:10:21 GMT Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2ip4rt$jn2@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> References: <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> <2ip10i$6qb@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: venus.larc.nasa.gov In article <2ip10i$6qb@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) writes: |> Jean Kirwin wrote: |> > |> >I have experienced a repeated problem with starting plants from seeds. ... |> |> Sounds like they're "leggy." You've got to get the shop light or the |> grow-light source down as close to soil level as possible after your |> seedlings have germinated, and then move the light source higher as |> necessary so that the bulbs are always just about touching the plants What is the cheapest way to implement this scheme? I don't want to spend $100-150 on one of those fancy systems of racks and adjustable height lights. Is it useless to have a fixed-height light? |> (watch out for leaf scorch though). I allow my seedlings a lights off |> rest period of 6-8 hours during the night. Also, watch excessive heat |> (after germination) and hold off fertilizing young tender seedlings. |> |> |> Jim Melissa From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Wed Feb 9 18:11:31 EST 1994 Article: 26117 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: Seedling Problem References: <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 17 Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 08:45:44 +0000 Message-ID: <760178744snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> jakirwi@starfleet.nswc.navy.mil "Jean Kirwin" writes: > I have experienced a repeated problem with starting plants from seeds. Most > often, the sprouts reach a length of about an inch and a half and they begin > to slant over. Eventually, most of them end up completely on their side and > dead. What is happening and what can I do to prevent this? I'm sure I am > not overwatering/underwatering. > It's almost impossible to diagnose a problem without actually seeing what's going on but are you sure your seedlings are getting sufficient light? As you seem happy with the watering and haven't indicated any symptoms of damping- off then lack of light and consequent etiolation of the seedlings seems possible. -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!portal.austin.ibm.com!awdprime.austin.ibm.com!harsh Wed Feb 9 18:11:33 EST 1994 Article: 26118 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!portal.austin.ibm.com!awdprime.austin.ibm.com!harsh From: harsh@austin.ibm.com (Harsh Sharma) Subject: Re: FAQ, still looking & Rose question Sender: news@austin.ibm.com (News id) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 20:22:56 GMT Distribution: usa References: Organization: IBM, Austin Keywords: FAQ, roses Lines: 172 I got the following from the FAQ, you should be able to obtain the FAQ through one of the methods described. hope this helps- Harsh- --------- __o __o __o me ! who else? __o -------- _`\<,_ _`\<, _`\<, ~~~~~~~ _`\<, ------- (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) ~~~~~~~~ (*)/ (*) harsh@netftp.austin.ibm.com BLDG 045/Zip 4305 Austin RS/6000 x838-5335 In article vjpachiano@ccgate.dp.beckman.com (Vincent J. Pachiano Jr.) writes: |Several people have posted lately requesting the location of the FAQ. I |resisted posting, since I assummed someone would post the FAQ location. |Alas, I have not seen any such post. | |1. Can anyone direct me to the FAQ for this group? | |Regards, |Vince |From: Vince J Pachiano |Email: vjpachiano@ccgate.dp.beckman.com ----------------------------------cut-here------------------------------------ Where to get the rec.gardens FAQs --------------------------------- anonymous ftp: - ftp sunsite.unc.edu cd pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture/recgardens - or - telnet sunsite.unc.edu Login: gopher Enter term type: vt100 [works fine] go to: sunsite archives sustainable agriculture information browse sustainable agriculture information sustainable agriculture recgardens or go to: sunsite archives browse sunsite archives academic agriculture sustainable agriculture recgardens - Lawrence london@sunSITE.unc.edu | How can I get the FAQs if I haven't got FTP? Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1993 21:55:01 -0400 (EDT) Retreival of the sourdough FAQs at sunSITE.unc.edu using Internet e-mail ------------------------------------------------------------------------ You should be able to retreive them using FTPMail at sunSITE. Here's the collection of docs I have on FTPMail. One of them is what you get when you send e-mail to: ftpmail@sunsite.unc.edu Subject: help and/or: Message Text: help --=-- Subject: this is the ftp-mail doc... Valid commands to the email-ftp gateway are: reply-to email-address Who to send the response to. Defaults to your incoming email address open [site [user [pass]]] Site to ftp to. Defaults are sunsite.unc.edu anonymous reply-to-address. cd pathname change directory. ls [pathname] short listing of pathname. Default pathname is current directory. dir [pathname] long listing of pathname. Default pathname is current directory. get pathname get a file and email it back. compress compress files/dir-listings before emailing back uuencode btoa These are mutually exclusive options for converting a binary file before emailing. (Default is uuencode) force uuencode force btoa Force all files or directory listings to be encoded before sending back. There is no default. mode binary mode ascii change the mode selected for the get command. Defaults to binary. quit End of input - ignore any following lines. Example scripts are: open dir quit Connect to sunsite.unc.edu and send back the contents of the top level directory reply-to jem@lambada.oit.unc.edu open cd unix get buffer.shar quit Connect to sunsite.unc.edu and send back the file buffer.shar to jem@lambada.oit.unc.edu open sunsite.unc.edu cd /pub/Linux get 00-find.Linux cd ../X11/contrib compress ls -ltra quit Connect to sunsite.unc.edu, send back the file 00-find.Linux.Z in /pub/Linux, which is a listing of all files in the Linux area. As this is a binary file it has to be transfered in binary mode. Because it is binary it will automagically be uuencoded (the default binary encoder). Then change to ../contrib and mail back a compressed directory listing. Although compressing ls output makes it binary, which then has to be encoded, it still ends up smaller than the original. open cd /pub/X11/contrib/R5fixes get fix-08 get fix-09 get sunGX.uu quit Retrieve some recent X fixes open cd gnu atob mode binary get emacs-18.59.tar.Z quit From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ncrgw2.ncr.com!ncrhub2!torynews!james Wed Feb 9 18:11:34 EST 1994 Article: 26119 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ncrgw2.ncr.com!ncrhub2!torynews!james From: james@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com (James Sanders) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: <1994Feb2.202222.17236@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com> Organization: NCR (Torrey Pines Development Center) Disclaimer: This posting does not necessarily reflect the opinions of NCR. References: <1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk> <1994Feb1.121839.3524@es.dupont.com> <1994Feb1.093437.22170@cobra.uni.edu> Date: Wed, 2 Feb 94 20:22:22 GMT Lines: 20 If you like squash the cats seem to dislike walking through the type with scratchy leaves and stems. My backyard is a major highway for the local cats, and last year I watched them go all the way around their normal route to clear my Spagetti Squash patch. Occasionally one would try to go through and would go REAL slow, and then try to jump to the other side. This would only work for you if you can use it as a perimeter border, and it does tend to take over the whole yard. Plus it is not all year round. Maybe you can think of another plant that has the same scratchy feel to it that is more permanate and more controlable. _/ _/ _/_/_/_/ _/_/_/_/ James Sanders _// _/ _/ _/ _/ NCR -- Torrey Pines Development Center _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/_/ James.Sanders@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com _/ _/_/ _/ _/ _/ (619) 597-3731 VoicePlus 466-3731 _/ _/ _/_/_/_/ _/ _/ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Wed Feb 9 18:11:36 EST 1994 Article: 26120 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: paste tomatoes in pittsburgh Message-ID: <5@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 2 Feb 94 21:26:19 GMT References: Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 38 ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) writes: > Hey there, tomato heads. I have tried for four years to grow paste tomatoes > in my city garden. I have had terrible luck. Blossom end rot, low production, > and anthracnose always thwart my efforts. I have limed. I have dusted with > copper. I have used Tomatoes Alive!, composted, and prayed. Nothing works. > The tomatoes--such as they are--always suck. > > I water evenly. I don't overfertilize. Somebody, help me! > > Ruth Sample Obviously there's a lot that can go wrong with America's favorite home-grown vegetable! I seem to recall that paste tomatoes are more susceptible to bossom end rot because of their shape. (It's an anatomical thing -- the pointed end is farther from the stem or something like that.) My own personal experience is that _variety_ also has a lot to do with susceptibility to BER. My biggest problems with blossom end rot on paste tomatoes was on with the inderminate 'heirloom' varieties I have tried. Varieties that have rarely shown BER are all determinate types: 'Viva Italia', 'La Rossa', 'Bellstar' and 'Del Oro' (which is round, and maybe more of a sauce rather than paste tomato). BER is more likely to develop when the watering is uneven, so that mulching can help prevent it. I've had very few problems with disease on my tomatoes since I began using regular foliar sprays of liquid seaweed solution (I prefer Maxicrop). Mulch is also useful in controlling disease, which can be spread when rain splashes soil onto the plants. As far a fertilizing, an application of compost in the fall, a small application of organic meals in the spring (soybean or alfalfa, bone, and kelp) when setting the plants out, and regular foliar sprays of kelp (occasionally mixed with fish emulsion) do the job for me. The last thing I ought to mention is sunlight. Do your tomato plants get at least six hours of direct sunlight? It might be possible to grow tomatoes with a little less sun, but for best results they ought to have at least this much. May you one day be sick of processing tomatoes! I know in late August I start to moan and complain, but it's nice to be able to make a nice batch of sauce in February 'from the garden'. //Pat Kiewicz\\ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Wed Feb 9 18:11:39 EST 1994 Article: 26121 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seaweed extract Message-ID: <6@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 2 Feb 94 21:26:20 GMT References: <1994Feb1.171645.26093@leo.vsla.edu> Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 20 swooldri@leo.vsla.edu (Susan Wooldridge) writes: > Does anyone have a good source for purchasing seaweed extract > as a fertilizer for seedlings? I've read that it not only > fertilizes, but helps prevent legginess and makes plants more > cold hardy. Would love some input. > > Susan Wooldridge You should be able to order this type of product throught the mail from any number of companies. I, myself use Maxicrop, which I buy in the form of a dried powder. I've ordered it from Mellinger's in the past (1-800-321-7444, item MA107, $12.95 +2.95 min. S&H). It's also available from Pinetree Garden Seeds and others. Or, I've been told you can call Maxicrop directly at 1-800-KELP-964. 10.7 oz can of powder makes one gallon of solution, which is applied at a dilution of one TBSP/gallon of water. (I never make up more than a quart at a time, and one can lasts me for more than one season.) //Pat Kiewicz\\ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Wed Feb 9 18:11:40 EST 1994 Article: 26122 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gardening magazines (was: Re: OG email update) Message-ID: <7@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 2 Feb 94 21:26:20 GMT References: <1994Feb1.192836.22724@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 13 > Horticulture mag is nice but doesn't really do veggies . For veggies, I subsrcibe to 'National Gardening' and for ornamentals I subscribe to 'Fine Gardening'. (Part of the logic behind this is that my local library carries Horticulture and OG (and some others not worth mentioning), so I browse them there.) //Pat Kiewicz\\ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.noc.drexel.edu!dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu!dunx1!st92ebps Wed Feb 9 18:11:42 EST 1994 Article: 26123 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.noc.drexel.edu!dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu!dunx1!st92ebps From: st92ebps@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu (Kim Baxter) Subject: hydroponics Message-ID: Sender: news@Dunx1.OCS.Drexel.Edu Nntp-Posting-Host: dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu Organization: Drexel University Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 18:51:52 GMT Lines: 3 I would like to know if there are any maillists or archived files on Internet dealing with hydroponics. Reply to me personally or post to this group. Thanks, Kim From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!Elroy.UH.EDU!MBRANDES Wed Feb 9 18:11:44 EST 1994 Article: 26124 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!Elroy.UH.EDU!MBRANDES From: mbrandes@Elroy.UH.EDU Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: noisette roses Date: 2 Feb 1994 22:41:17 GMT Organization: University of Houston Lines: 67 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <2ipa6d$l5u@menudo.uh.edu> References: ,<2ics49$soi@samba.oit.unc.edu> Reply-To: mbrandes@Elroy.UH.EDU NNTP-Posting-Host: elroy.uh.edu cIn article <2ics49$soi@samba.oit.unc.edu>, Suzanne-lucia.Demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu (Suzanne-lucia Demitrio) writes: >kcanady@metronet.com (Kevin Canady) writes: > >| I'd like to plant a nice climbing Noisette rose > >Ooooh! > >| and have narrowed >| the search down to Celine Forestier, Reve d'Or, and Claire Jacquier. > >The climbing noisette that I lust after is Desprez a Fleur Jaune, >aka Jaune Desprez; have you seen it in a catalog anywhere? > >| Also, my two favorite old rose suppliers disagree on whether >| Claire Jacquier repeats its bloom. The Antique Rose Emporium says >| it flowers once while Heirloom Old Garden Roses says it repeats. >| Which is correct? > >_The_Ultimate_Rose_Book_ says that it repeats: > >"Claire Jacquier: One of the most vigorous of repeat-flowering >climbers, 'Claire Jacquier' is quite capable of smothering the >facade of a two-storey house with its dark green leaves, which >it will spangle with clusters of flowers in the spring and in- >termittently afterwards. The peachy yellow of the buds has >faded almost to cream by the time the blooms are fully open so >the effect is subtle rather than dazzling. The fragrance is >lovely. It was introduced by A. Bernaix of Lyon in 1888." > >-- Macoboy, Stirling. _The_Ultimate_Rose_Book_. New York: > Harry N. Abrams, 1993. (also Australia: Mallon > Publishing, 1993.) > >{I can give you the entries on the other two, too, if you >like; all three are gorgeous in the pictures I have, and >both Reve d'Or and Celine Forestier are said to flower all >season.} > > >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Suzanne Lucia suzanne-lucia.demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu > >-- > The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of > North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information > Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. > internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 ____________________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________ Marion Brandes, University of Houston...............MBRANDES@JETSON.UH.EDU I grow over 200 varieties of Antique Roses here on the Gulf Coast, since 1986. I have grown quite a few Noisettes, and by far the most superior is Reve d'Or (Dream of Gold). It is never bothered by disease, it has been hardy down to 10 degrees, and it blooms all year long, but the main flush is in March/early April. It gets very large over the years with 25' canes if supported hori- zontally. Celine Forestier has the most beautiful blooms that appear all year, but it is not very vigorous, and the leaves are often chlorotic. Claire Jacquere is a Rambler and if you're going to plant a once-bloomer there are much better ones: Alexander Girault, Alberic Barbier, and Francois Juranville. All of these are a cross between a Tea rose and R. Whichuriana. They are extremely healthy and bloom very heavily in Spring. Juane Desprez is a fairly good Noisette, healthy and blooms often. if you're going to plant a once-bloomer From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!portal.austin.ibm.com!awdprime.austin.ibm.com!harsh Wed Feb 9 18:11:46 EST 1994 Article: 26125 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!portal.austin.ibm.com!awdprime.austin.ibm.com!harsh From: harsh@austin.ibm.com (Harsh Sharma) Subject: Re: How to find leak in pond? Sender: news@austin.ibm.com (News id) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 20:43:00 GMT Distribution: na References: Organization: IBM, Austin Lines: 40 In article ahill@boi.hp.com (Andy Hill) writes: >I've a small PVC-lined pond that has a small leak. Over the course of >a week, the pond level will drop about 5 inches, and then stay steady. >Since this localizes the area of the leak to somewhere on that level, >you'd think the leak would be easy to find. No such luck. > >Any pointers for finding leaks? Alternately, is there a method of "painting" >an area that would close off pinholes (preferably with even in water, but >I can lower the water level if need be). > I would say that there are probably few way to try and find the leak. (remember that I have not tried any one of these ideas, this is just to get the discussion started). 1) binary search - some how (I know ! I know !) seal a 1/4 of the surface at which you suspect a leak. Move this seal around untill you can determine which 1/4 area has the leak. Once that area is determined, follow the procedure similar to above within that area, till you find the leak. (you can start with 1/4 search patter, it will just take you longer --- you knew that !:-)) 2) pattern search - apply a dye that floats on the water (I know ! I know !), and you should be able to see a movement of this dye toward the hole. (try it on the day that has very little wind) >Thanks! > >-- >Andy Hill >ahill@boi.hp.com I hope it helps, if if does not ... I hope it got you thinking. Harsh- --------- __o __o __o me ! who else? __o -------- _`\<,_ _`\<, _`\<, ~~~~~~~ _`\<, ------- (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) ~~~~~~~~ (*)/ (*) harsh@netftp.austin.ibm.com BLDG 045/Zip 4305 Austin RS/6000 x838-5335 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!portal.austin.ibm.com!awdprime.austin.ibm.com!harsh Wed Feb 9 18:11:47 EST 1994 Article: 26126 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!portal.austin.ibm.com!awdprime.austin.ibm.com!harsh From: harsh@austin.ibm.com (Harsh Sharma) Subject: Re: lost in space! Sender: news@austin.ibm.com (News id) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 21:32:52 GMT References: Organization: IBM, Austin Lines: 12 In article DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) writes: >Help! I've sent the same message to this group three times and it looks >as if it's bouncing back to me! If anyone sees this message, or a question >about David Austin books, would you please take a second to let me know I'm >getting through? > >thanks--donna Hear you loud and clear ! (all three messages :-)) Harsh- /* my views */ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah Wed Feb 9 18:11:49 EST 1994 Article: 26127 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah From: leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) Newsgroups: rec.food.cooking,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Can I grow Arugula? Message-ID: <1326@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 2 Feb 94 21:17:14 GMT References: <2icl6l$khb@solaris.cc.vt.edu> Reply-To: leah@smith.chi.il.us (L.A.Z. Smith) Organization: R. H. E. Smith Corp., Wheeling, IL Lines: 22 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.food.cooking:67065 rec.gardens:26127 In article <2icl6l$khb@solaris.cc.vt.edu> harper@Sophocles.stat.vt.edu (Scott Harper) writes: >Would anyone happen to know what sort of growing season arugula requires? >Perhaps an even more basic question would be - where can I get seeds or >plants? I can't seem to locate it in any seed catalogs... Arugula is also known as rugula, rocket and roquette, which may be why you're not spotting it in your catalogs. One source is Pinetree Garden Seeds, Box 300, New Gloucester, ME 04260. A packet of arugula seeds, from their Italian vegetable section, is 50 cents. Order#IT24. Shipping is 95 cents, so you may want to get their catalog and order more seeds to make it worthwhile. Their phone # is (207) 926-3400. They are a good company that offers small, garden-sized seed packets at inexpensive prices. Arugula is a cool season green, like spinach. It grows best in spring and fall. In hot weather it bolts rapidly. Multiple sowings are the best way to get a large crop, but it also is a cut-and-come-again type green. Leah Smith leah@smith.chi.il.us From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.eecs.uic.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u57097 Wed Feb 9 18:11:51 EST 1994 Article: 26128 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.eecs.uic.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u57097 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, ADN Computer Center Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 15:41:37 CST From: MARILYN YOUNG Message-ID: <94033.154137U57097@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: roses and black spot Lines: 2 Can anyone suggest a good old-fashioned or David Austin rose which is especiall y resistant to black spot? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!leppik Wed Feb 9 18:11:52 EST 1994 Article: 26129 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!leppik From: leppik@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (leppik peter) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Date: 2 Feb 1994 23:50:08 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 27 Message-ID: <2ipe7g$a4h@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> <2ip10i$6qb@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> <2ip4rt$jn2@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: uxa.cso.uiuc.edu mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) writes: >In article <2ip10i$6qb@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) writes: >|> Jean Kirwin wrote: >|> > >|> >I have experienced a repeated problem with starting plants from seeds. ... >|> >|> Sounds like they're "leggy." You've got to get the shop light or the >|> grow-light source down as close to soil level as possible after your >|> seedlings have germinated, and then move the light source higher as >|> necessary so that the bulbs are always just about touching the plants >What is the cheapest way to implement this scheme? I don't want to >spend $100-150 on one of those fancy systems of racks and adjustable >height lights. Is it useless to have a fixed-height light? I just went to Menard's, bought a two-bulb florescent fixture (about $10), a box of ceiling hooks (maybe $.49), some pulleys, and some rope. I hung the light from the hooks using the rope and pulleys, and I just tie the rope to whatever is handy in the room. When the light needs to be adjusted, I untie it, make the adjustment, and tie it back down.... -- Peter Leppik-- p-leppi@uiuc.edu Assistant Head, Department of Mad Science University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:11:53 EST 1994 Article: 26130 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: Adriann Musson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: SEEDS: Looking for herb seeds! Date: Wed, 2 Feb 94 20:07:29 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 1 Message-ID: <19940202.20072972.amusson@delphi.com> References: <1994Jan18.171920.10427@pmafire.inel.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos2a.delphi.com X-To: Jamie J Ferguson Try Nichol's Herbs. Excellent quality, service. They are in Oregon From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!gatekeeper.us.oracle.com!barrnet.net!biosys!apldbio.com!mpc Wed Feb 9 18:11:54 EST 1994 Article: 26131 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!gatekeeper.us.oracle.com!barrnet.net!biosys!apldbio.com!mpc From: mpc@apldbio.com (Morgan Conrad) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Reveil Dijonnais Rose Message-ID: <821@biosys.apldbio.COM> Date: 3 Feb 94 00:56:24 GMT Sender: mpc@biosys.apldbio.COM Organization: Applied Biosystems Inc, Foster City, CA Lines: 21 All this talk about antique roses got me to browsing in a bookstore, where I saw a picture of a vivid red/yellow climber, called Reveil Dijonnais. The Heirloom Old Garden Roses catalog says: "A rose of striking and breathtaking beauty, ... Lightly fragrant ... Outstanding climber or shrub. Good repeat bloom" Sounds good to me. However, the American Rose Society rates it only a 5.5 out of 10. What's the catch? - sounds like it is suceptible to _something_. I'd appreciate comments from anybody who's had experience, good or bad, with Reveil Dijonnais. I live near the coast by San Francisco, which is Sunset zone 17. No freezes, but little warmth either! Thanks Morgan Conrad Who grants absolution Applied Biosystems for sins that never were committed? mpc@apldbio.com 415-570-6667 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!apple!apple.com!ntg!dplatt Wed Feb 9 18:11:55 EST 1994 Article: 26132 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!apple!apple.com!ntg!dplatt From: dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt) Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Message-ID: <1994Feb3.001439.3830@ntg.com> Sender: news@ntg.com (USENET news account) Organization: New Technologies Group, Inc. Palo Alto CA References: <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 00:14:39 GMT Lines: 27 In article <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> jakirwi@starfleet.nswc.navy.mil (Jean Kirwin) writes: >I have experienced a repeated problem with starting plants from seeds. Most >often, the sprouts reach a length of about an inch and a half and they begin >to slant over. Eventually, most of them end up completely on their side and >dead. What is happening and what can I do to prevent this? I'm sure I am >not overwatering/underwatering. Sounds like "damping off", a fungus disease whose spores can be transmitted via contaminated soil. Once it gets into your seedling beds, it is almost impossible to stop it from wasting everything there. The best prevention is to avoid the use of garden soil for starting seeds. Use a steam-sterilized potting medium (commercial potting soil works fine as long as it's steam-sterilized). Use new containers. If you use pots or containers which have been used before, wash them out very thoroughly and then soak for an hour in water to which a small amount of chlorine bleach has been added (1 tbsp per gallon), and then rinse with running water and allow to air-dry. Wash and disinfect any planting implements that you use (spoons, dibbles, etc.) in the same way. -- Dave Platt dplatt@ntg.com ..or.. ...netcomsv!ntg!dplatt USNAIL: The 3DO Company, NTG division 2470 Embarcardero Way Palo Alto CA 94303 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!gumby!wmichgw!x92ochs1 Wed Feb 9 18:11:57 EST 1994 Article: 26133 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!gumby!wmichgw!x92ochs1 From: x92ochs1@gw.wmich.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: test Message-ID: <1994Feb2.202038.14452@gw.wmich.edu> Date: 2 Feb 94 20:20:37 EST Organization: Western Michigan University Lines: 2 testing From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!gumby!wmichgw!x92ochs1 Wed Feb 9 18:11:58 EST 1994 Article: 26134 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!gumby!wmichgw!x92ochs1 From: x92ochs1@gw.wmich.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Cold affects this year's fruit. Message-ID: <1994Feb2.202940.14453@gw.wmich.edu> Date: 2 Feb 94 20:29:40 EST Organization: Western Michigan University Lines: 26 Peach Farmers in SW Lower MI have been examining the winter buds on their peach trees, only to find them damaged from the cold. I believe some good buds were found near South Haven. Last months frigid cold is believed to have wiped out the Peach crop here in MI, and also has reduced the grape crop. Grapes have primary and secondary buds. The secondary buds, which produce little if any fruit, become active when the primary buds are damaged, which is what has occurred. In 1992, grape plants were frozen around here in low lying areas during an early June frost. Only grapes that were irrigated and/ or in higher areas were spared, the others turned brown and secondary growths developed in July, with no fruit. Peach tree growers are fearing that their trees may die and have to be replanted, since the flower buds are damaged,and possibly the leaf buds. Apple and cherry growers are currently checking their trees for damage. 1993's cherry crop here was wiped out by the cool, wet summer, which caused many cherries to rot. Some apple-growers lost their apples to apple-blight last year. Prices in fruit are expected to be higher this year. I imagine some citrus trees have been damaged by this week's cold in Florida. I saw on the weather channel that it was snowing in Fla and raining in Alaska. The temp was slightly higher in Alaska than in Fla.(weird!) Jeff (maybe this account will work!!!My other one is messed up) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer Wed Feb 9 18:11:59 EST 1994 Article: 26135 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Giberelic Acid? Is it safe? Date: 3 Feb 1994 02:09:56 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 23 Message-ID: <2ipmdk$cvs@news.u.washington.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu In article , Kurt Brown wrote: > >I have some very old seeds (8-9 years) that I can't seem to germinate. I >have heard that Giberelic acid can help encourage germination. Is this >safe to do on edible plants? How much should I use? Any negative side >affects? Any better alternatives. > >I have two plant types I'm working with. One is an heirloom corn and the >other is sage. I am told that they are old heirloom varieties. Thanks for >your help! > Gibberelic acid does help break seed dormancy and speed germination in some seeds, especially those in the Solanaceae (tomato/pepper family), and others. But I have a feeling that your problem might not be seed dormancy, but just seed that is too old. If it is too old, it really means that it is just dead, and nothing will help that. I'm not sure if sage has any kind of dormancy problems, but corn doesn't. You might try bottom heat and make sure the soil is warm enough, but otherwise there isn't much else you can do. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!att-out!walter!faline!mie Wed Feb 9 18:12:00 EST 1994 Article: 26136 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!pacbell.com!att-out!walter!faline!mie From: mie@faline..bellcore.com (Martin I. Eiger) Subject: Re: Seed source for cosican mint and wolly thyme Message-ID: Sender: news@walter.bellcore.com Nntp-Posting-Host: faline.bellcore.com Organization: Bellcore MRE References: <19940201.00092730.tootie2@delphi.com> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 01:11:29 GMT Lines: 16 > I've been looking for corsican mint for a while now. Has anyone > tried this plant? Will it grow in zone 7 with high heat and > humidity? > >-Lyric The catalogs of the following suppliers list Corsican mint: Well-Sweep Herb Farm, 317 Mt. Bethel Road, Port Murray, NJ 07865; ph. (908) 852-5390. $2.25. Logee's Greenhouses, 141 North Street, Danielson, CT 06239; ph. (203)774-8038, fax (203) 774-9932. $3.00. --Elisa Eiger mie@thumper.bellcore.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!olivea!hal.com!decwrl!amd!amdahl!juts.ccc.amdahl.com!p3slt06!bws20 Wed Feb 9 18:12:02 EST 1994 Article: 26137 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!olivea!hal.com!decwrl!amd!amdahl!juts.ccc.amdahl.com!p3slt06!bws20 From: bws20@mfg.amdahl.com (Brian Wesley Simmons) Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Message-ID: <1994Feb3.024202.22960@ccc.amdahl.com> Sender: netnews@ccc.amdahl.com (UTS Tech Support) Reply-To: bws20@mfg.amdahl.com Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA References: <2imd2b$h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 02:42:02 GMT Lines: 15 In article h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU, pkr@leland.Stanford.EDU (Paula Karen Rickert) writes: > How about a few well-aimed hits with a squirt gun? > Ok, I'll give you my address. You can station yourself in my yard 24 hours/day, 7days/week. I will supply you with a squirt gun. Thanks for the offer. bw --- bws20@mfg.amdahl.com Dogs, guns, motorcycles, DoD# 1bfd EGFC#12 and the love of A Good Woman; '82 Yamaha Seca XJ650R, nameless what more is there? '90 Bouviers des Flandres, Raleigh & Que From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!amd!amdahl!juts.ccc.amdahl.com!p3slt06!bws20 Wed Feb 9 18:12:03 EST 1994 Article: 26138 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!amd!amdahl!juts.ccc.amdahl.com!p3slt06!bws20 From: bws20@mfg.amdahl.com (Brian Wesley Simmons) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: <1994Feb3.024737.24539@ccc.amdahl.com> Sender: netnews@ccc.amdahl.com (UTS Tech Support) Reply-To: bws20@mfg.amdahl.com Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA References: Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 02:47:37 GMT Lines: 23 One thing to try which does affect the owners and not the cats (too much) is to call up your local animal shelter or humane society and ask to borrow some live traps. If you've never seen them, they are rectangular sorts of cages with a paddle that trips when the animal steps on it. The animal is _not_ harmed. Then you pick up the ttap, take it to the shelter, and let them call the owner-- in the exceedingly rare instance that a cat-owner actually tags their pets. If no tags, well, then the cat owners can call around and find out where Muffy went. I've come to think that one of the main problems in this country is that cat owners raise their children exactly the same way they do their cats: they impart no sense of responsibility, provide no training, assume no responsibility for untoward actions, feel no guilt at harm caused to others. Bastards. bws --- bws20@mfg.amdahl.com Dogs, guns, motorcycles, DoD# 1bfd EGFC#12 and the love of A Good Woman; '82 Yamaha Seca XJ650R, nameless what more is there? '90 Bouviers des Flandres, Raleigh & Que From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!amd!amdahl!juts.ccc.amdahl.com!p3slt06!bws20 Wed Feb 9 18:12:04 EST 1994 Article: 26139 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!amd!amdahl!juts.ccc.amdahl.com!p3slt06!bws20 From: bws20@mfg.amdahl.com (Brian Wesley Simmons) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: <1994Feb3.025517.26259@ccc.amdahl.com> Sender: netnews@ccc.amdahl.com (UTS Tech Support) Reply-To: bws20@mfg.amdahl.com Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA References: Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 02:55:17 GMT Lines: 45 In article E03@ra.nrl.navy.mil, ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (Tom Dugan) writes: > In article , dak2@psu.edu (David A. Kolasa) writes: > > Who made you God that you're so sure what all pet owners think? It's clear > you've got a problem with your neighbors. Don't include me in that list, Bud, > 'cause I ain't on it. > I happen to be a gardener and cat owner and have no problems with my neighbors. > My cats DO go in my yard and that's something I deal with. Good! I was beginning to wonder if there were any responsible cat owners. Seriously. > All of them? Empirically, in the nieghborhoods I have lived in, certainly a significantly significant majority. > Ever see an owl get hold of a baby bird or mouse? Do you have a clue what goes > on in the natural world? Do you suppose that if these animals weren't pets > they'd behave any differently? In fact, the answer to that is YES: it'd be > worse. Umm, pet cats are not part of the natural world. They are very much unnatural in that they are provided for at home (shelter, food, medical care), then rampage out in the fields and forests. And even feral cats--the direct result of thousands and tens of thousands irresponsible cat owners--are having _major_ impacts on wild songbird populations. In localized areas, they have extirpated, or nearly so, some indigenous species. > > Deal with your neighbors, but leave off labelling all pet owners as irresponsible. The only reasons there are more problems with cats than dogs are 1) there are laws enforcing good behavior on dog owners 2) dogs require more care than cats, so people are inclined to care more about them. no smileys, here, either bws --- bws20@mfg.amdahl.com Dogs, guns, motorcycles, DoD# 1bfd EGFC#12 and the love of A Good Woman; '82 Yamaha Seca XJ650R, nameless what more is there? '90 Bouviers des Flandres, Raleigh & Que From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:12:05 EST 1994 Article: 26140 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail From: Jeff.Welch@launchpad.unc.edu (jeffrey ei]ugene       ugene welch) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: unicorn plant sources Date: 3 Feb 1994 03:48:53 GMT Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2ips75$oiu@samba.oit.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu Has anyone seen the unicorn plant, Ibicella (Martynia) lutea in their seed catalogs. If so could you e-mail me? The one I'm looking for has yellow flowers and the neat horned seedpods. Thanks! Jeff -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Wed Feb 9 18:12:06 EST 1994 Article: 26141 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pressure Treated Lumb From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4437.2552.0N41F2A3@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Wed, 2 Feb 94 12:44:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 57 This message was originally addressed to JSANDERS@SPD.DSCCC.COM and a carbon copy was sent to you. ---------------------------------------- Here is the Consumer Information Sheet about pressure treated wood that I received from the American Wood Preserver's Association, PO Box 5283, Springfield, VA 22150 that is SUPPOSED to be provided to every purchaser of CCA, ACA, and ACZA treated wood. This is exactly as it appears without editing. "This wood has been preserved by pressure treatment with an EPA registered pesticide containing inorganic arsenic to protect it from insect attack and decay. Wood treated with inorganic arsenic should be used only where such protection is important. Inorganic arsenic penetrates deeply and remains in the pressure treated wood for a long time. Exposure to inorganic arsenic may present certain hazards. Therefore, the following precautions should be taken when handling the treated wood and in determining where to use or dispose of the treated wood. USE SITE PRECAUTIONS Wood pressure treated with waterborne arsenical preservatives may be used inside residences as long as all sawdust and construction debris are cleaned up and disposed after construction. Do not use treated wood under circumstances where the preservative may become a component of food or animal feed. Examples for such sites would be structures or containers for storing silage or food. Do not use treated wood for cutting boards or counter tops. Only treated wood that is visibly clean and free of surface residue should be used for patios, decks, and walkways. Do not use treated wood for construction of beehives that may come in contact with honey. Treated wood should not be used where it may come into direct or indirect contact with public drinking water, except for uses involving incidental contact such as docks and bridges. HANDLING PRECAUTIONS Dispose of treated wood by ordinary trash collection or burial. Treated wood should not be burned in open fires or in stoves, fireplaces, or residential boilers because toxic chemicals may be produced as a part of the smoke and ashes. Treated wood from commercial or industrial use (e.g construction sites) may be burned only in commercial or industrial incinerators or boilers in accordance with state and federal regulations. Avoid frequent or prolonged inhalation of sawdust from treated wood. When sawing and machining treated wood, wear a dust mask. Whenever possible, these operations should be performed outdoors to avoid indoor accumulations of airborne sawdust from treated wood. When power sawing and machining, wear goggles to protect eyes from flying particles. After working with the wood, and before eating, drinking, and use of tobacco products, wash exposed areas thoroughly. Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 1st - Be of Good Cheer! cc: all From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!richter Wed Feb 9 18:12:07 EST 1994 Article: 26142 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!richter From: richter@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (C. Richter) Subject: Re: growing parsley Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: <2ioqoq$6st@apakabar.cc.columbia.edu> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 05:37:48 GMT Lines: 29 In article <2ioqoq$6st@apakabar.cc.columbia.edu>, A Deborah Malmud wrote: > >I have planted parsley seeds in three pots. I did not soak the >seeds for 24 hours before planting them (as was recommended). >The directions on the package are not clear as to how much >they should be watered, how much sun to get, etc. Can anyone >give me some suggestions. Also, my windowsill is right above a >radiator and I'm worried about the heat. Might this be a >problem? How long will it take for me to see some shoots? It is not necessary to soak the seeds first. It does help, but you can easily get good results without soaking. Give parsley as much light as you can -- at least four hours of direct light once the seedlings are past the 2-3 leaf stage. Prior to and during germination, you can give the seeded pots somewhat less intense light -- say a more filtered light a foot or so from a window. The heat of the radiator can be a problem if the seeded pots are drying out excessively. If you are finding the pots dry out completely between waterings, then you have too much heat. Parsley doesn't really need bottom heat for good germ. anyway. Germination time should be about 2 weeks; but that depends on seeds, temp., depth of planting, etc. Conrad Richter Richters Herbs Goodwood, ON L0C 1A0 Canada From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson Wed Feb 9 18:12:09 EST 1994 Article: 26143 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Request for FAQ Message-ID: <86.2d4f5e7a@axolotl> Date: 01 Feb 94 11:43:53 CST Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City Sender: news@axolotl.omahug.org (UUscan 1.10) Followup-To: rec.gardens Lines: 201 snoopy@spacemanspiff.den.mmc.com (Cindy Camp) writes: > Hi, I've been lurking around this group for several weeks and haven't > seen the FAQ yet. I know there is one because I've seen people being > referred to it on another newsgroup for information on pressure treated > lumber. I just bought a house in October and want to get a head > start on planning my vegetable and flower gardens; so could someone > mail me a copy! I would really appreciate it. ------------------------------------------------------------ Accessing FAQlists for rec.gardens, rec.woodworking, rec.crafts.metalworking, rec.food.sourdough, rec.food.veg, alt.meditation, sci.life-extension, alternative energy and archives of other information on these, related subjects and sustainable agriculture at sunSITE.unc.edu. ------------------------------------------------------------ anonymous ftp: ftp sunsite.unc.edu cd pub/academic cd agriculture/sustainable_agriculture cd recgardens [the FAQs are here] -or- cd medicine/alternative-healthcare -or- cd environment/alternative-energy/miscellaneous telnet: telnet sunsite.unc.edu Login: gopher Enter term type: (vt100 works fine) -Gopher Menu- The Worlds of sunSITE Sustainable Agriculture Information SunSITE Sustainable Agriculture Information recgardens [the FAQs are here] -and- The Worlds of SunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic agriculture sustainable_agriculture recgardens The Worlds of sunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic environment alternative energy miscellaneous The Worlds of sunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic medicine alternative healthcare Various Internet resources archived at sunSITE in the above directories: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Newsgroups and mailing lists: Reading alt.sustainable.agriculture gives you everything flowing through the sustag-public and sanet-mg lists in addition to any articles posted directly to the newsgroup. [Listed are host systems (i.e. mailing list server site address, mailing list name, and name of newsgroup that it's gated to, if at all] Mailing Lists: -------------- List name: sustag-public Host server: almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Post articles to: sustag-public@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Gated to: alt.sustainable.agriculture [sanet-mg is gated read-only to this newsgroup _not_ to the mailing list] List name: sanet-mg (Sustainable Agriculture Network mail group) Host server: almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Post articles to: sanet-mg@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu List name: forage-mg Host server: almanac@oes.orst.edu Post articles to: forage-mg@oes.orst.edu Other mailing lists: wetnet soils-l agmodels-l agric-l bee-l hydro-l devel-l indknow-l aqua-l marine-l gardens-l cohousing-l Usenet Newsgroups: ------------------ sci.agriculture alt.sustainable.agriculture alt.agriculture.misc alt.agriculture.fruit Others: rec.gardens misc.rural alt.folklore.herbs alt.co-evolution sci.bio sci.bio.ecology sci.geo.geology sci.geo.meteorology sci.aquaria bionet plants bionet mycology bionet photosynthesis bionet cellbiology bionet general bionet.agroforestry bionet.n2-fixation bionet.biology.tropical alt.architecture.alternative alt.housing.nontrad sci.energy misc.health.alternative sci.life-extension alt.health.ayurveda alt.meditation misc.health.diabetes rec.food.veg sci.med.nutrition sci.med.pharmacy alt.food.fat-free Other mailing lists: -------------------- >From almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu: renew-energy (Renewable Energy) nc-solar (North Carolina Solar Energy Resources) NAT_MED (Natural Medicine) ENV_RES (Environmental Resources) >From mailserv@iris.uncg.edu: MaxLife-L (Towards a Positive, Healthy Lifestyle) Articles in all of the mailing lists and newsgroups listed above, FAQs and other information are archived at sunSITE. They are accesable by ftp, telnet, Gopher, WWW, WAIS & FTPMail. - For more information contact: Lawrence London london@sunSITE.unc.edu sunSITE ftp directories: /pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture /pub/academic/environment/alternative-energy/miscellaneous /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare Paul Jones Paul_Jones@unc.edu Office for Information Technology University of North Carolina Chapel, Hill, N.C. 1-919-962-9107 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Bob Batson bob.batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org "You're only young once but you can always be immature" Dave Berry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!panix!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:12:10 EST 1994 Article: 26144 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!panix!not-for-mail From: fishman@panix.com (Harvey Fishman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Date: 3 Feb 1994 01:29:12 -0500 Organization: The Crack of Doom Lines: 24 Message-ID: <2iq5jo$9gt@panix.com> References: <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> <2ip10i$6qb@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> <2ip4rt$jn2@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: panix.com In <2ip4rt$jn2@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) says > In article <2ip10i$6qb@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) writes: > |> Sounds like they're "leggy." You've got to get the shop light or the > |> grow-light source down as close to soil level as possible after your > |> seedlings have germinated, and then move the light source higher as > |> necessary so that the bulbs are always just about touching the plants > > What is the cheapest way to implement this scheme? I don't want to > spend $100-150 on one of those fancy systems of racks and adjustable > height lights. Is it useless to have a fixed-height light? Keep your fixed height lights. Just move the trays with the seedlings up and down with piles of books, magazines, or whatever. Harvey -- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Harvey Fishman | There is no greater failure than fishman@panix.com | that of making an enemy. 718-258-7276 | From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!sunic!EU.net!news.eunet.fi!anon.penet.fi Wed Feb 9 18:12:12 EST 1994 Article: 26145 of rec.gardens Message-ID: <063314Z03021994@anon.penet.fi> Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!sunic!EU.net!news.eunet.fi!anon.penet.fi Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: an48674@anon.penet.fi (Taos Mountain Man) X-Anonymously-To: rec.gardens Organization: Anonymous contact service Reply-To: an48674@anon.penet.fi Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 06:28:28 UTC Subject: High Intensity Discharge Lights Lines: 41 Dear Netters and Gardening Freaks: I am looking for a good kit greenhouse that is lightweight, cheap, workable. I am also looking for cheap/reliable lighting for my indoor (winter) garden. Lately, it seems that legitimate indoor gardeners, like me, have become the target of investigation for purchasing equipment. In one case, the FBI/DEA actually set up a garden supply house and took down the names of anyone who wanted to do business with them, got search warrents, well, you get the picture. Considering that I am a long-haired organic gardening type, I already get more than enough grief. So you can understand my reluctance. I went to the local wholesale lighting people recommended by the local hardware store, but they only had "decorative" fixtures whose package price added to some $1.00 per watt. I understand that one can do much better thru the mail, but I don't know which firms are reputable and which are not, and which are government poseurs. Are there any available thru the InterNet? Are there any ways to mail order things anonymously? Please advise. Thomas (who doubts) ------------------------------------------------------------------------- To find out more about the anon service, send mail to help@anon.penet.fi. Due to the double-blind, any mail replies to this message will be anonymized, and an anonymous id will be allocated automatically. You have been warned. Please report any problems, inappropriate use etc. to admin@anon.penet.fi. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!world!news.mtholyoke.edu!nic.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!jkenney Wed Feb 9 18:12:13 EST 1994 Article: 26146 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!world!news.mtholyoke.edu!nic.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!jkenney From: jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) Subject: help with carrots Message-ID: <1994Feb3.022119.12404@k12.ucs.umass.edu> Sender: usenet@k12.ucs.umass.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: k12.ucs.umass.edu Reply-To: jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) Organization: University of Massachusetts/Amherst K-12 Information System Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 02:21:19 GMT Lines: 10 I am an organic gardener in Western Mass. and have had a lot of success with everything except carrots. Each year I give them the old college try, but before I can even find evidence of sprouts, the weeds have all but made it impossible to keep track of them. Any help would be much appreciated..Jeff -- Jeff Kenney Great Falls Middle School/Science "A boy's will is the wind's will, and the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts". From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah Wed Feb 9 18:12:15 EST 1994 Article: 26147 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah From: leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Leach Field Garden Message-ID: <1327@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 2 Feb 94 23:52:32 GMT References: <36.4261.2552.0N41F0CF@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Reply-To: leah@smith.chi.il.us (L.A.Z. Smith) Organization: R. H. E. Smith Corp., Wheeling, IL Lines: 35 >Kurt Brown asks: >K>I live in the Rocky Mountains and I want to have a garden. The only > >available place in my yard is over the leach field. Will vegetables grown > >here pose any health threat? I am particularly concerned with the build > >up of nitrates. If there is some health threat, can I amend the soil in > >some way to minimize the problem. > In article <36.4261.2552.0N41F0CF@gcbb.granite.mn.org> jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) writes: >But planting over the leach field is not generally recommended. Not for >the reasons you cite of health to the plants, but to protect the drain >field. Roots can clog pipes, even foot traffic can compress the soil, >and it is the natural vegetation that helps dissipate moisture and >provide nutrient uptake. Tilling the soil and disturbing the natural >ecology above the drain field is not advisable. I grew a vegetable garden over our leach field for several years. (We've since moved to a house that has mains sewers.) I can't help you on the question of nitrates -- I confess it never occurred to me that this would be a problem. We certainly did not become sick after eating our homegrown vegetables, so if we've poisoned ourselves at least it is not fast acting :-) We were somewhat concerned about somehow interfering with the operation of the field, however, so we did the following: we set up the garden (about 15 x 20 feet of growing area, plus paths) at the end of the field furthest from the septic tank, and we used raised beds, bringing in top soil to fill them. We never had any problems that I was aware of. Good luck. Leah Smith leah@smith.chi.il.us From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!ns1.nodak.edu!plains!knickman Wed Feb 9 18:12:17 EST 1994 Article: 26148 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!usenet.coe.montana.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!ns1.nodak.edu!plains!knickman From: knickman@plains.NoDak.edu (Elena Knickman) Subject: Re: Bottom heat for Seedlings Sender: usenet@ns1.nodak.edu (Usenet login) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 21:31:32 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: plains.nodak.edu Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Lines: 9 Yes you do need light. My husband accuses me of not completing my thoughts, and he's usually right. Put them on top of the fridge in a plastic bag (the pots or flats, that is, there I go again), don't close the bag too tightly, and monitor them for when they sprout. Once they make their debut, put them under the light or in the windowsill, whatever your pleasure. Ellie Knickman knickman@plains.nodak.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!nstn.ns.ca!coranto.ucs.mun.ca!csd.unb.ca!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!jbarta Wed Feb 9 18:12:19 EST 1994 Article: 26149 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!nstn.ns.ca!coranto.ucs.mun.ca!csd.unb.ca!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!jbarta From: jbarta@uoguelph.ca (John R Barta) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: garden with cat exc Date: 1 Feb 1994 21:45:53 GMT Organization: University of Guelph Lines: 98 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2imiih$83c@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> References: <36.4400.2552.0N41F160@gcbb.granite.mn.org> <2imgti$7f5@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: herman.cs.uoguelph.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] John R Barta (jbarta@uoguelph.ca) wrote: : Jim Mcnelly (jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org) wrote: : : Subject: garden with cat exc : : Jackie Wrote, : : J> There was a guy who asked if it was okay for his Mom : : >to grow food plants in a cat infested garden. The answer is no. Do not : : >grow food. As we all know carnivore poo is bad fertilizer. It is worse : : >with cats. Cats have diseases which humans can catch. : : Hi Jackie, : : Your advice is correct, but needs some clarification. There are : : intestinal parasites in dog poop, but they are transmitted only : : through eating or contact with an open sore. They are also killed in : : the soil fairly easily. The problem with cat feces is a disease : : called toxiplasmosis, which causes blood problems with children under : : two and pregnant women. It too is transferred through eating and open : : sores, and as you mention, breathing dust. : : Neither of these problems are associated with eating the food grown in : : the soil. They are not going to be updaken by plants and ingested from : : tomatoes, corn or whatever. The likelihood of catching the diseases : : from soil on roots is *very* remote as to be insignificant, but it is a : : good idea to wash root vegetables extra thoroughly anyway, if not only : : for the risk of ingesting even background levels of lead. : : I was told by a : : >knowledgeable person at Sloat Garden Center that diseases from cat excreta : : >stay in the soil for a period of three years even if cat poos no more. : : >This means that even if every cat left that garden forever, you should : : >still not plant food for at least three years. : : Yes it is true that toxiplasmosis can last for three years, but the : : chance of the disease having a pathway to infection goes down 50% every : : few months. There are fecal coliforms in all dust and soils, and there : : are no truly sterile conditions. The risk of contacting disease from : : animal manures is mostly in the first few weeks after being deposited, : : and progressively less thereafter. The fact that the disease survives : : is not the issue. The question is whether it is in a concentration : : capable of causing infection. The most important thing is to keep : : children from eating cat feces in the soil and sandbox. : : I have the same problem, : : >and I don't even grow basil. : : Basil and other herbs should be no problem, even if the cats are : : pooping in the garden. : : On the whole, you are well informed and others should also think about : : proper management of organic residuals. Your note highlights an : : important reason why animal byproducts from carnivores should not be : : added to the soil or to the passive compost pile. An active, hot : : compost pile that is made as a batch, turned regularly, and heats to : : over 131F for at least 15 days will kill pathogens down to background : : levels. My experience has shown me that 90%+ of householders practice : : passive composting, and those that do use active composting techniques : : do not do it in a way that meets the EPA pathogen destruction : : standards. This is why I and other composting professionals recommend : : that dog and cat feces and animal byproducts be kept out of the compost : : pile. : : Mr Compost~~~ : : Jim McNelly~~~ : : Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis : : jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org : : --- : : * January 29th - One universe plus one universe = one universe : As a parasitologist I can comment on the infectivity of Toxoplasma gondii, : the causative agent of toxoplasmosis. While it is true that toxo can : survive for some time in the garden soil and therefore present a potential : risk to gardeners, the risk IS minimal as indicated earlier in this : thread. Children, women early in pregnancy (who have not previously been : exposed to toxoplasma, and the immunocompromised (people with AIDS or : people on immunosuppressive therapy - organ transplant patients) are the : people at risk here. HOWEVER, the more likely route of infection is : through undercooked meat products. So wash your veggies and you should be : fine. Sorry, my laptop ran out of juice and I didn't have time to leave an address. John R. Barta Dept. of Pathology jbarta@ovcnet.uogueLph.ca Ontario Veterinary College 519-824-4120 ext. 4017 University of Guelph Guelph, Ontario CANADA N1G 2W1 Usual disclaimers apply! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!decwrl!decwrl!koriel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fastrac.llnl.gov!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!news.reed.edu!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:12:20 EST 1994 Article: 26150 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!decwrl!decwrl!koriel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fastrac.llnl.gov!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!news.reed.edu!usenet From: kbezilla@reed.edu (Ken Bezilla) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: slugs and sheet mulching Date: 3 Feb 1994 06:22:09 GMT Organization: Reed College, Portland, Oregon Lines: 19 Sender: kbezilla@reed.edu Message-ID: <2iq56h$n0c@scratchy.reed.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: brahma.reed.edu Summary: does sheet mulching working in the Pacific NW? Keywords: slugs, mulch Has anyone had experience with sheet mulching here in the rainy part of the Northwest? I've heard mixed results about it. Some people (e.g., Steve Solomon) say that it won't work here in Oregon because our winters are too mild and slugs will overwinter in the mulch, devouring the tender veggies in the spring. Other folks I know say they've tried it and it's worked fine, they say that between snakes in the garden and slug collecting the slugs aren't too much of a problem. However, we already have a lot of slugs on the farm where I work (twenty miles south of Portland), and we don't have any snakes because we have six cats, and they kill any snakes they can get their paws on. (Unfortunately, the cats won't eat slugs.) We're thinking of trying some sheet mulching out this year, using ducks for some slug control (the cats don't mess with the ducks), but we'd like to know what we're getting into first. Any advice? ---- Ken Bezilla kbezilla@reed.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!news.byu.edu!cwis.isu.edu!mica.inel.gov!guinness!guinness!ajh Wed Feb 9 18:12:22 EST 1994 Article: 26151 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!news.byu.edu!cwis.isu.edu!mica.inel.gov!guinness!guinness!ajh From: ajh@diamond.guinness (Andrew Huang) Subject: Re: Sterilizing Compost In-Reply-To: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org's message of Tue, 1 Feb 94 01:58:00 +0600 Message-ID: Sender: usenet@guinness.idbsu.edu (Usenet News mail) Nntp-Posting-Host: diamond Organization: Boise State University References: <36.4401.2552.0N41F220@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: 03 Feb 1994 00:56:42 GMT Lines: 16 In article <36.4401.2552.0N41F220@gcbb.granite.mn.org> jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) writes: adequate temperatures. But the microwaves themselves will kill insects and weeds, but I don't have the data to tell you how long or at what I've had the experience of putting my lunch into the microwave at school, letting it run for 3-5 mins and then noticing that there were ants running around inside the oven. And my lunch was quite hot thank you. why it took me so long to get to, is simply to spread the soil three inches deep on the driveway or sidewalk and water it. Within a week or great idea!! -andy From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!news.byu.edu!cwis.isu.edu!mica.inel.gov!guinness!guinness!ajh Wed Feb 9 18:12:24 EST 1994 Article: 26152 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!news.byu.edu!cwis.isu.edu!mica.inel.gov!guinness!guinness!ajh From: ajh@diamond.guinness (Andrew Huang) Subject: Re: Sterilizing Compost In-Reply-To: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org's message of Tue, 1 Feb 94 01:58:00 +0600 Message-ID: Sender: usenet@guinness.idbsu.edu (Usenet News mail) Nntp-Posting-Host: diamond Organization: Boise State University References: <36.4401.2552.0N41F220@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: 03 Feb 1994 00:58:52 GMT Lines: 16 In article <36.4401.2552.0N41F220@gcbb.granite.mn.org> jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) writes: adequate temperatures. But the microwaves themselves will kill insects and weeds, but I don't have the data to tell you how long or at what I've had the experience of putting my lunch into the microwave at school, letting it run for 3-5 mins and then noticing that there were ants running around inside the oven. And my lunch was quite hot thank you. why it took me so long to get to, is simply to spread the soil three inches deep on the driveway or sidewalk and water it. Within a week or great idea!! -andy From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!tfnet.ils.unc.edu!london Wed Feb 9 18:12:25 EST 1994 Article: 26153 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!tfnet.ils.unc.edu!london From: london@tfnet.ils.unc.edu (Larry London) Newsgroups: sci.misc,sci.bio,bionet.general,bionet.plants,rec.gardens Subject: Ideas for classroom science project for 6th grader Date: 3 Feb 1994 13:31:26 GMT Organization: TRIANGLE FREENET Lines: 18 Message-ID: <2iqube$bid@bigblue.oit.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: tfnet.ils.unc.edu Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu sci.misc:5043 sci.bio:13483 bionet.general:6604 bionet.plants:2327 rec.gardens:26153 Can anyone suggest ideas for a classroom science project for a bright (straight A's) 6th grade student? - I had thought of doing test plantings (in pots, with sterilized medium) of various legumes, some with the appropriate rhizhobium innoculant and some without - then using an inexpensive soil test kit to test for nitrogen levels; at end of experiment could uproot seedlings to show differences in nodule formation on roots. How much time would be required produce demonstrable results? - If anyone could send me suggestions by e-mail (or in newsgroup) within the next 14 hours I would be grateful. Lawrence London Chapel Hill, NC london@sunSITE.unc.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!MOLAISRJ@esvx11.es.dupont.com Wed Feb 9 18:12:27 EST 1994 Article: 26154 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!MOLAISRJ@esvx11.es.dupont.com From: molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Message-ID: <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> Sender: news@es.dupont.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: esvx11.es.dupont.com Reply-To: molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com Organization: DuPont (Opinions are those of the writer only) References: <2imd2b$h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU>,<1994Feb3.024202.22960@ccc.amdahl.com> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 12:14:13 GMT Lines: 49 In article <1994Feb3.024202.22960@ccc.amdahl.com>, bws20@mfg.amdahl.com (Brian Wesley Simmons) writes: > >In article h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU, pkr@leland.Stanford.EDU (Paula Karen Rickert) writes: >> How about a few well-aimed hits with a squirt gun? >> > >Ok, I'll give you my address. You can station yourself in my yard 24 hours/day, >7days/week. I will supply you with a squirt gun. Thanks for the offer. > >bw >--- > bws20@mfg.amdahl.com Dogs, guns, motorcycles, > DoD# 1bfd EGFC#12 and the love of A Good Woman; > '82 Yamaha Seca XJ650R, nameless what more is there? > '90 Bouviers des Flandres, Raleigh & Que > Ok, lets see what we have here: First I need to waste my time and talk to my neighbors, who will say it isn't there cats. Next I need to spend $60- $100 on a humane live animal trap. Remove the cat take it to it's owner and explain why I have it. Next I need to replace my beautiful flowers with a yard full squash plants. Then I need to quit my job, and sit out in my garden all day and night with a squirt gun to protect my yard. After doing all this, I guess I can use my spare time thinking about the flowers I use to have, and I can cut the squash leaves to bring into my house to look at. Why don't I just dig up the whole fricking yard and plant concrete. I DON'T THINK SO The anti-freeze is quick and doesn't cost me time or money. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!emilys Wed Feb 9 18:12:29 EST 1994 Article: 26155 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!emilys From: emilys@brtph7cc.bnr.ca (Emily Smith) Subject: Mellingers? Message-ID: <1994Feb3.142252.7829@brtph560.bnr.ca> Sender: news@brtph560.bnr.ca (Usenet News) Organization: Bell-Northern Research, RTP, NC Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 14:22:52 GMT Lines: 18 I posted this before but got no replies; thought I'd try one more time. Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with plant material ordered from Mellinger's? I have had good experiences with non- plant material, but would like to place a plant order. They sell many perennials, shrubs, trees; give Latin names, and have a bit more reasonable prices than Bluestone (but not *cheap* like Michigan Bulb and the like). They offer a one-year guarantee on all plants. Thanks, Emily ****************************************************************** * Emily Smith * Bell-Northern Research, Inc. * Opinions * * emilys@bnr.ca * Research Triangle Park, NC * are mine. * ****************************************************************** From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!bk134 Wed Feb 9 18:12:31 EST 1994 Article: 26156 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!bk134 From: bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Keith William Bowes) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Date: 3 Feb 1994 15:25:16 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 61 Message-ID: <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: eeyore.ins.cwru.edu Greetings all... Like many of you, I've spent many hours in the past month or so mulling over my new 1994 seed catalogs. And as usual, the list of items I'd like to try is MUCH longer than my available garden space can accommodate. Oh well, so what else is new? However, I always dedicate plenty of my limited available space to that food of the Gods.... TOMATOES! Usually the majority of my tomato crop is comprised of Better Boys, which ALWAYS do well and go over big taste-wise with family and neighbors and friends. Usually I will also plant a cherry tomato plant.. or two.. or five. And I always round out my tomato section with seven or ten plants of a different type. Last year it was Celebrity. Nice plant. Good production. Good color. Good flavor. However, the Better Boy's beat it hands down on all fronts, (IMHO and those of my clan). Anyway, getting to the point of my post (slowly), now it comes time to decide what this "different" type will be this year. I didn't think this would be such an involved decision. Then I sat with my "Totally Tomatoes" catalog. WOW! There is a mind boggling number of choices out there. (BTW, nice catalog). Since last fall I've subconsciously been thinking OG50 was the way to go. All I've been hearing since last falls crop was harvested was raves about OG50.....OG50......OG50. But when I sat down and really thought about it, I realized the places I'd been hearing all this praise was in Organic Gardening magazine and on Jeff Cox's (pathetic IMHO) tv show. Are these unbiased opinions? I think not. If a type of tomato is named after your bread-n-butter, are you gonna say it stinks? And how many letters to the editor are going to print saying "I've had nothing but bad luck with OG50"? (I can tell you all about OG50's history; it is an improved Park's Whopper, it is named for Organic Gardening's 50th anniversary (or something like that), etc. These facts have been drilled into our heads for 18 months from the sources listed above. But I CANNOT tell you how well OG50 grows or tastes). Realizing that this is largely a matter of taste, and tastes vary greatly, are there some unbiased opinions out there regarding OG50? Have any of you people, not on Rodale's payroll, tried OG50 with any success? I'm open to all opinions, good or bad, regarding OG50 or any other type of tomato you think would be a good choice as this year's "alternate" in my garden. (Including the cherry's. This year I plan to try the Sweet 100's. Are these the best? Are there some better?) (Please keep in mind, I live right on the shore of Lake Erie in northeastern Ohio. VERY good conditions for growing tomatoes, but obviously it's not 90 degrees every day all summer and the growing season is not 250 days long.) Thanks in advance for any opinions. I'll post results if interest exists or if the thread catches on or if I get a lot of mail. Keith Bowes bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb Wed Feb 9 18:12:32 EST 1994 Article: 26157 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb From: u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Date: 3 Feb 1994 14:59:48 GMT Organization: USACE Waterways Experiment Station Lines: 17 Message-ID: <2ir3h4$55d@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> References: <1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk> <1994Feb1.121839.3524@es.dupont.com> <1994Feb1.093437.22170@cobra.uni.edu> <1994Feb2.202222.17236@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: apollo.wes.army.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] I planted a Labrador Retriever and a Miniature Schnauzer in my back yard, and I have no problems with cats :) :) . Heck, I sometimes don't even have a problem with *plants* in the back yard. You could try an electric fence - cost can be as little as $40 or so - of course, you'd have the problem of them learning to jump the wire(s). BTW - do the cats help with keeping birds out of the garden? This could be a benefit in some way (I know I'm really reaching here!). Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil Computer Scientist Information Technology Laboratory U.S. Army Corps of Engineers "select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb Wed Feb 9 18:12:33 EST 1994 Article: 26158 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!olivea!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb From: u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Good Mail order source of perennials and ground covers? Date: 3 Feb 1994 15:08:40 GMT Organization: USACE Waterways Experiment Station Lines: 28 Message-ID: <2ir41o$55d@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: apollo.wes.army.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Jeff West (jeff.west@atlantaga.ncr.com) wrote: : Does anyone know of a good source for perennials and ground covers? : Specifically interested in Rhododendrens, Mountain Laurel, Moss Phlox, : Liriope, and Dianthus (both low types and Carnations) for perennials and a : wide range of ground covers from ornamental to traffic hardy. I prefer large : plants and live slightly north of Atlanta, Ga. : Also as long as I'm asking how about a source for bulbs, specifically crocus, : iris, lilies, (I wish tulips were not annuals here), and hyacinth. : I will post a summary for inclusion in the catalog FAQ. : Thanks so much for your help. : There's a nursery in Meridian, Mississippi that specializes in perennials (in particular native plants). I can't remember the name (the owner is Gail Barton), but I'll try to find it. OTOH, you might call directory assistance and ask for Gail's number. Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil Computer Scientist Information Technology Laboratory U.S. Army Corps of Engineers "select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv Wed Feb 9 18:12:35 EST 1994 Article: 26159 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv From: gwv@hemlock.cray.com (George Walter VandenBerghe) Subject: Re: High Intensity Discharge Lights Message-ID: <1994Feb3.090435.3651@hemlock.cray.com> Originator: gwv@hemlock Lines: 62 Sender: gwv@hemlock (George Walter VandenBerghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: hemlock Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <063314Z03021994@anon.penet.fi> Date: 3 Feb 94 09:04:35 CST In article <063314Z03021994@anon.penet.fi>, an48674@anon.penet.fi (Taos Mountain Man) writes: > > > > Dear Netters and Gardening Freaks: > > I am looking for a good kit greenhouse > that is lightweight, cheap, workable. > > I am also looking for cheap/reliable > lighting for my indoor (winter) garden. Lately, > it seems that legitimate indoor gardeners, like > me, have become the target of investigation for > purchasing equipment. In one case, the FBI/DEA > actually set up a garden supply house and took > down the names of anyone who wanted to do business > with them, got search warrents, well, you get the > picture. Considering that I am a long-haired > organic gardening type, I already get more than > enough grief. So you can understand my > reluctance. > > I went to the local wholesale lighting > people recommended by the local hardware store, > but they only had "decorative" fixtures whose > package price added to some $1.00 per watt. I > understand that one can do much better thru the > mail, but I don't know which firms are reputable > and which are not, and which are government > poseurs. Are there any available thru the > InterNet? Are there any ways to mail order > things anonymously? > > Please advise. > > > Thomas (who doubts) > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To find out more about the anon service, send mail to help@anon.penet.fi. > Due to the double-blind, any mail replies to this message will be anonymized, > and an anonymous id will be allocated automatically. You have been warned. > Please report any problems, inappropriate use etc. to admin@anon.penet.fi. I am very concerned that the purchase of plant lights provides probable cause to search a home (BTW I am a short haired Yuppie type) However I can get good shop lights at Hechingers in the DC area for around 9 cents/watt (plus bulbs) These are double 40 watt tube fixtures with hooks which hang from shelves. They also sell them at K-Mart, and Franks ... probably in most large home hardware outlets (Home Depot, Wal-Mart etc) My one gripe with these is that they come with 6" plugs and thus require an extension to get to an outlet. Also flourescents do not provide enough intensity to grow sun loving veggies to maturity and they don't put out enough ultraviolet to harden the plant off against the untraviolet in real sunlight so seedlings grown under flourescents will sunburn badly if exposed to direct sun outside. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!netcomsv!netcom.com!aeldra Wed Feb 9 18:12:36 EST 1994 Article: 26160 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!netcomsv!netcom.com!aeldra From: aeldra@netcom.com (Patrick Kane) Subject: Wellness Letter: The Wonderful Spider Plant Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 15:23:54 GMT Lines: 99 Want to help the environment in your living room or office? The Wellness Letter, from the University of California at Berkeley, reports on the amazing powers of the hardy spider plant. These plants can help reduce common airborne pollutants and improve the general quality of the air. An excerpt from this article follows: --------------------- THE HIDDEN LIFE OF SPIDER PLANTS As we reported in 1986, a NASA scientist, B.C. Wolverton, who was looking for ways to cleanse the air in space stations, discovered that houseplants actually remove pollutants from the air. Indoor air often contains carbon monoxide and nitrogen dioxide released from gas stoves or furnaces, formaldehyde from furnishings or building materials, and smoke from cooking or tobacco use. It turns out that houseplants, besides looking nice and adding a bit of oxygen to the air, may actually perform a service. For some reason, spider plants, one of the hardiest, most ubiquitous of houseplants, actually seemed to do the best job. Wolverton concentrated on three pollutants: formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene (TCE), which can come from treated wood, furnishings, carpeting, clothing, cleaning chemicals, and other common domestic sources. Not only spider plants but some daisies, chrysanthemums, bamboo palm, English ivy, philodendron, and golden pothos also did a good job removing these chemicals. This additional research was reported in a 1989 study Wolverton conducted for NASA under the auspices of the Foliage for Clean Air Council, a nonprofit group underwritten by the decorative houseplants industry. It's also been shown that potting soil itself absorbs pollutants and removes them from the air. Indeed, a study in Environmental Pollution in 1989, authored by Thad Godish of Ball State University in Muncie, Indiana, showed that defoliated spider plants achieved higher reductions of formaldehyde than those with leaves, and that potting soil is effective, too--but not for long. What combats the pollution is not just one element, but the chemical interaction among soil, roots, plants, and the microorganisms in the soil. --------------------- So begins this issue's featured article from The Wellness Letter. This article and others from The Wellness Letter and additional publications are available free from The Electronic Newsstand, a service which collects articles, editorials, and table of contents from over 50 magazines and provides them to the Global Internet community. Access to The Electronic Newsstand is available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week via Gopher, an information navigation and retrieval technology from the University of Minnesota. For those without a local Gopher client program, The Electronic Newsstand provides a telnet account which will allow you to use a text based Gopher client to access our service. To access The Electronic Newsstand, via Local Gopher Client: Hostname: gopher.internet.com Port: 2100 via the Gopher Home Menu at U of Minn: Other Gopher and Information Servers/ North America/ USA/ General/ The Electronic Newsstand (tm) via Gopher Link Information: Name=The Electronic Newsstand Type=1 Port=2100 Path=1/ Host=gopher.internet.com via Telnet: Hostname: gopher.internet.com Loginname: enews Password: via World Wide Web: URL: gopher://gopher.inter.com/ If you have any suggestions on how we might improve this service, or need more information, please email staff@enews.com --The Electronic Newsstand Staff From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!news.dell.com!pmafire!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:12:37 EST 1994 Article: 26161 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!news.dell.com!pmafire!usenet From: kkv@lewis (Jamie J Ferguson) Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Message-ID: <1994Feb3.162034.17434@pmafire.inel.gov> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 94 16:20:34 GMT References: <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Organization: WINCO Lines: 29 In article <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Keith William Bowes) writes: >I'm open to all opinions, good or bad, regarding OG50 or any other >type of tomato you think would be a good choice as this year's >"alternate" in my garden. (Including the cherry's. This year I plan >to try the Sweet 100's. Are these the best? Are there some better?) I'm certainly not an expert -- last year was my first garden ever (other than helping my mom from time to time with hers). I grew Sweet 100's and Early Temptation (I think that was the right name -- small/medium tomatoes). I liked them both. The Sweet 100's made me realize how tasteless store-bought cherry tomatoes are -- and I had TONS of tomatoes, which was great! I planted 12 or 13 plants (I'm not sure how many of each type) total, which was an awful lot for one person (my husband is not a veggie fan). We are in SE Idaho and last year was a really yucky, cold summer, and I had plenty of tomatoes. Most of them came at the end of the season because of the cold weather, but during a normal summer they should do better. What is this tomato catalog you mentioned? I don't think I've heard of it before. I never was a tomato fan, but after growing my own I seem to have developed a taste for them. Jamie kkv@inel.gov From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:12:38 EST 1994 Article: 26162 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail From: Suzanne-lucia.Demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu (Suzanne-lucia Demitrio) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: fig trees Date: 3 Feb 1994 17:14:41 GMT Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. Lines: 49 Message-ID: <2irbe1$cn7@samba.oit.unc.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu In article , Ruth Moabite wrote: >I am growing two small Brown Turkey fig trees in my basement under high- >pressure sodium lights. Please tell about your lights! How much light do they put out? How expensive were they? Where did you get them? How happy are you with them? >But I am even more amazed that there are >no flowers. A friend of mine who has black mission fig trees in his yard >in Stockton, CA, tells me that he has never seen a fig tree flower, and yet >he harvests hundreds of figs during his twice-yearly harvests. Me neither. I've read that their pollination process has something to do with a species of moth, but I've never seen them either. >Finally, I may give a tree to a friend here in the Burgh. Does anyone out >there know of, personally or through the grapevine, of naturalized fig trees >in the Pittsburgh area? (I.e., can I put one in the ground and expect it >to live and bear fruit?) A friend of mine in NYC tells me that she sees >brown figs on trees all over NYC. I thought you had to bury the tree, as OG >recommended, every winter. But my friend says no one buries them, and they >do fine. Well, I'm an Italian in NJ, and my kinsmen conspire to keep figs alive in this intemperate clime. We have trees that have been moved from house to house, and passed from aunt to cousin, for decades; so do our neighbors. We've gone through various fashions in winter coverings, but my grandparents now favor a refrigerator-box, packed with insulating clothlike stuff, fitted over the tree and covered with plastic. Some people say that you don't need to cover them at all. Certainly you don't need to bury them. We get lots of figs every year. The main problem is timing -- it's a race between ripening and the first frost, after which the green figs are good for nothing but snowman-eyes. Some years we eat scores, others we lose most of them. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Suzanne Lucia suzanne-lucia.demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!seismo!news.bbn.com!olivea!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!leo!swooldri Wed Feb 9 18:12:40 EST 1994 Article: 26163 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!seismo!news.bbn.com!olivea!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!leo!swooldri From: swooldri@leo.vsla.edu (Susan Wooldridge) Subject: Re: SEEDS: Looking for herb seeds! Message-ID: <1994Feb3.142129.8943@leo.vsla.edu> Organization: Virginia State Library References: <19940202.20072972.amusson@delphi.com> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 14:21:29 GMT Lines: 8 You might try Gurney's Seed & Nursery Co. 110 Capital Street Yankton, South Dakota 57079 1-605-665-1930 (Phone) 1-605)665-9817 (Fax, 24 hours a day) Good luck! S. Wooldridge From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!seismo!news.bbn.com!olivea!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!leo!swooldri Wed Feb 9 18:12:41 EST 1994 Article: 26164 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!seismo!news.bbn.com!olivea!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!leo!swooldri From: swooldri@leo.vsla.edu (Susan Wooldridge) Subject: Re: Good Mail order source of perennials and ground covers? Message-ID: <1994Feb3.141657.8831@leo.vsla.edu> Organization: Virginia State Library References: Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 14:16:57 GMT Lines: 26 jeff.west@atlantaga.ncr.com writes: > Does anyone know of a good source for perennials and ground covers? > Specifically interested in Rhododendrens, Mountain Laurel, Moss Phlox, > Liriope, and Dianthus (both low types and Carnations) for perennials and a > wide range of ground covers from ornamental to traffic hardy. I prefer large > plants and live slightly north of Atlanta, Ga. > > Also as long as I'm asking how about a source for bulbs, specifically crocus, > iris, lilies, (I wish tulips were not annuals here), and hyacinth. > > I will post a summary for inclusion in the catalog FAQ. > > Thanks so much for your help. > Jeff - You might want to try Gurney's Seed & Nursery Company 110 Capital Street Yankton, South Dakota 57079 1-605-665-1930 (Phone) 1-605-665-1671 (Fax) I found most of the items you mentioned in their spring catalog. Good luck - happy planting! S. Wooldridge From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:12:43 EST 1994 Article: 26165 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail From: Suzanne-lucia.Demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu (Suzanne-lucia Demitrio) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: High Intensity Discharge Lights Date: 3 Feb 1994 18:36:51 GMT Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. Lines: 28 Message-ID: <2irg83$fhh@samba.oit.unc.edu> References: <063314Z03021994@anon.penet.fi> NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu I second your requests -- though right now I'm having more trouble finding information than supplies -- i.e. how much light do I need? What's the spectrum on fluorescents, halides, etc. and how much should I worry about it, or mix light sources? I'm hoping to grow a pillar rose, ideally a noisette, indoors. I'm thinking of putting it in a corner between two bookcases, and mounting my lamps on the sides of the bookcases ... For lighting fixtures, remember that there *is* a commercial greenhouse trade; there *are* electrical contractors in this world too; and they must buy from somewhere. Do you know an electrician or florist whom you can ask? The agriculture or botany department of a university might help that way, too. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Suzanne Lucia suzanne-lucia.demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:12:44 EST 1994 Article: 26166 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail From: Suzanne-lucia.Demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu (Suzanne-lucia Demitrio) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: High Intensity Discharge Lights Date: 3 Feb 1994 18:45:26 GMT Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. Lines: 25 Message-ID: <2irgo6$ftf@samba.oit.unc.edu> References: <063314Z03021994@anon.penet.fi> <1994Feb3.090435.3651@hemlock.cray.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu gwv@hemlock.cray.com (George Walter VandenBerghe) writes: | Also flourescents | do not provide enough intensity to grow sun loving veggies | to maturity and they don't put out enough ultraviolet | to harden the plant off against the untraviolet in real sunlight | so seedlings grown under flourescents will sunburn badly if | exposed to direct sun outside. Aha! So what's the deal with ultraviolet? Will a flowering plant (like a rose) be happy forever without it? Or should you include UV fluorescents, or unshielded halogens -- btw, why doesn't anyone talk about halogens and plants together? Are they useless, or are there possibilities there? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Suzanne Lucia suzanne-lucia.demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU!kaw6m Wed Feb 9 18:12:45 EST 1994 Article: 26167 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU!kaw6m From: kaw6m@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Karen Ann Woodfork) Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: University of Virginia References: <2imd2b$h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb3.024202.22960@ccc.amdahl.com> <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 15:19:30 GMT Lines: 29 In article <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com writes: > Why don't I just dig up the whole fricking yard and plant concrete. > > I DON'T THINK SO > > The anti-freeze is quick and doesn't cost me time or money. It will cost you a LOT of time and money when your neighbor's 2-year-old drinks the antifreze and dies or has serious neurological damage and your neighbors sue you. People have lost suits from drownings in unfenced ponds and swimming pools; do you think that antifreeze _purposely_ left out in the GARDEN is going to be any different in a court of law ?? If you don't have any concern toward the humane treatment of animals, and care more about your pansies than the life- threatening risks to your neighbors' children, you just _might_ be concerned about the potential financial liability which you are incurring. -Karen -- ---------- ------- ----- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!ava.bcc.orst.edu!nessonm Wed Feb 9 18:12:46 EST 1994 Article: 26168 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!ava.bcc.orst.edu!nessonm From: nessonm@ava.bcc.orst.edu (Mike Nesson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Date: 3 Feb 1994 04:14:08 GMT Organization: University Computing Services - Oregon State University Lines: 12 Message-ID: <2iptmg$mcd@gaia.ucs.orst.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ava.bcc.orst.edu Most home/discount stores feature cheap fluorescent fixtures for $8-10 that hold two 40-watt bulbs, and include a chain and hooks for mounting. You can easily arrange the chain and hooks and (perhaps) a stout string and some cup hooks to provide yourself and your seedlings an adjustable height light. For seed raising, don't bother with fancy full-spectrum bulbs. All you need are cool-white bulbs. -- ----------------------------------------------- | Michael Nesson nessonm@bcc.orst.edu | | Dept. of Biochem/Biophys., Oregon State U. | | Corvallis, OR 97331-7305 | From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:12:47 EST 1994 Article: 26169 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail From: Suzanne-lucia.Demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu (Suzanne-lucia Demitrio) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Date: 3 Feb 1994 19:07:35 GMT Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. Lines: 54 Message-ID: <2iri1n$gml@samba.oit.unc.edu> References: <1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk> <1994Feb1.093437.22170@cobra.uni.edu> <1994Feb2.202222.17236@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com> <2ir3h4$55d@joanna.wes.army.mil> NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu Some thoughts ... I've had cats in suburbia (indoors) and out in the country (semi-feral) ... I've come very late to pet owning because I so dislike the sanitized, anthropomorphized role that modern domestic animals are pushed into. When I lived out in the country (and it was *country* -- most of the land in my county wasn't even under cultivation, and there were considerably more deer than people), my cats were strays who adopted me -- they dined with me when they were home, and curled up happily in my lap, but they also went out into the woods for days at a time. They were real animals, not possessions; and I fear that most of their (adorable!) kittens did get eaten by the coyotes. It happens. Cats like to roam. They like to hunt. They like to have sex. They like to have kittens. Saying that they are somehow 'better off' when they cannot do those things strikes me as selfish utopianism. Human interests, not natural ones, dictate animal control in heavily populated areas. We're competing for territory, plain and simple. My cat here in suburbia (adopted as a kitten) stays indoors exclusively -- her taste is fortuitously in accord with that rule; I don't know how comfortable I'd be with it otherwise. Cats in cities are another issue entirely -- there are few gardens to disturb, people defecate in the public parks too, and the pigeons, squirrels and mice that cats may occasionally kill are politically important to no one. I don't know ... when I want nature around at all, I want *real* nature, with its chaos and unpleantnesses too. I cannot com- prehend the notion that songbirds somehow outrank cats, or that furry animals' interests take moral precedence over people's. And popular ideas about how nature 'should' work seem no less arbitrary or suspect than popular ideas about how economics 'should' work. You have the right to kill unleashed dogs who wander on to your property, in rural Illinois at least; I'd imagine that that rule holds for most non-endangered stray animals in most places. The dark absurdity of the antifreeze post (and I doubt that anyone was really so ignorant as to misunderstand it; antifreeze is famously toxic) points up a real conflict. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Suzanne Lucia suzanne-lucia.demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!netsys!pagesat.net!olivea!gossip.pyramid.com!sword.eng.pyramid.com!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:12:48 EST 1994 Article: 26170 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!netsys!pagesat.net!olivea!gossip.pyramid.com!sword.eng.pyramid.com!not-for-mail From: kathyj@pyramid.com (Kathy Johnson ) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Purple Passion Asparagus? Date: 3 Feb 1994 10:36:57 -0800 Organization: Pyramid Technology Lines: 35 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2irg89$29c@pyrxbooter.eng.pyramid.com> References: <16F4BDC28S85.VERHEY@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: pyrxbooter.eng.pyramid.com In article <16F4BDC28S85.VERHEY@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu>, VERHEY@wsuvm1.csc.wsu.edu writes: |> |> I recent saw a newspaper article about "Purple Passion Asparagus," |> which (as I recall) was being sold in the Bay Area. |> |> Does anyone know where to get seeds/crowns of this Purple Passion |> Asparagus? Anyone have any experience growing or eating PPA? Does |> it stay purple when you cook it? Purple Passion Asparagus is available from: Cutter Farms 516 Young Ave. Arbuckle, CA 95912 Crowns are 12.60 + 6.00 shipping/handling for a set of 25. Seeds are 6.00 + .50 shipping/handling for a packet of 30. I just got mine and the crowns are in beautiful condition! You might want to order soon. The supply is limited this year and its first-order first-get. 8-) |> |> Thanks! |> |> Steve Verhey |> Crop and Soil Sciences |> Washington State University |> Pullman, WA 99163 USA -- When they told me you catch more flies with honey, they forgot to mention the yellow jackets... and the bears. kathyj@pyramid.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!news.dell.com!pmafire!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:12:49 EST 1994 Article: 26171 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!news.dell.com!pmafire!usenet From: kkv@lewis (Jamie J Ferguson) Subject: Re: _Presentable_ Produce Message-ID: <1994Feb3.190002.25366@pmafire.inel.gov> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 94 19:00:02 GMT References: <1453300462@cdp> Organization: WINCO Lines: 25 In article <1453300462@cdp> Libby Goldstein writes: >There are, as you know from growing lettuce for yourself, there are very few >beasties that attack lettuce. > >If you want to assure really clean produce for your chefs, wash the lettuce >well before delivery and shake it off to dry it. You can use one of those >salad spinners or put it on towels. Last year I grew lettuce and it did very well (especially since it was my first garden ever!). I did have some funny looking wormy things. They were light green. I think I found them in a book or something but now (with the ground still frozen solid and my garden rather lifeless) I don't remember what they were. Any ideas? If anyone knows what they were, do you also know if they are really bad? If they are, what should I do? My lettuce seemed fine, and they didn't show up until the end of the season, but I'd like to be more informed. Thanks, Jamie kkv@inel.gov From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby Wed Feb 9 18:12:51 EST 1994 Article: 26172 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 01 Feb 94 17:27 PST Subject: Re: Summer Savory Message-ID: <1453300460@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 11 I like pulling the entire plant when it's in bloom and hanging it upside down. Once it's dry, I just strip the leaves and flowers and put them in a glass jar with a lid. Other folk may say to harvest just before bloom, but I love the flowers as well as the leaves. If you leave some dried plants unstripped, you can use them in dried arrange- ments, wreaths, etc. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby Wed Feb 9 18:12:52 EST 1994 Article: 26173 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 01 Feb 94 17:30 PST Subject: Re: FAQ?: How long do seeds last? Message-ID: <1453300461@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 5 Marigolds and basil both retain their vitality for years. Go ahead and plant your seeds. Of course, if you just left the packets lying around the house, they may not do so well as seeds that were refrigerated. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby Wed Feb 9 18:12:53 EST 1994 Article: 26174 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 01 Feb 94 17:39 PST Subject: Re: _Presentable_ Produce Message-ID: <1453300462@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 12 There are, as you know from growing lettuce for yourself, there are very few beasties that attack lettuce. If you want to assure really clean produce for your chefs, wash the lettuce well before delivery and shake it off to dry it. You can use one of those salad spinners or put it on towels. The main problem we have here is birds who nip the leaves when young and can take a harvestable lettuce down to the crown in a few minutes. We cover the beds (and our young peas too) with bird net. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby Wed Feb 9 18:12:54 EST 1994 Article: 26175 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 01 Feb 94 17:23 PST Subject: Re: Full Shade Veggies? Message-ID: <1453300459@cdp> References: <2igiqk$emc@charm.magnus.acs.ohio> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 7 Try greens, mints, sweet woodruff. Almost everything else needs at least some (4hrs or so) sun. The lettuce might be ok, but red ones won't get red. I should think a selection of mints would be lovely and they sure would smell nice. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby Wed Feb 9 18:12:56 EST 1994 Article: 26176 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 01 Feb 94 17:10 PST Subject: Re: Mystery tree Message-ID: <1453300455@cdp> References: <2ij9oc$6h2@rand.org> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 2 Go to the library and get a guide to trees with a key in it and key down the leaves and branch structure. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby Wed Feb 9 18:12:57 EST 1994 Article: 26177 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 01 Feb 94 17:12 PST Subject: Re: Crape Myrtle Message-ID: <1453300456@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 6 There is a whole series of dwarf crepe myrtles that would be excellent in containers, but I think you'd have to bring them indoors or keep them in some space that doesn't go below 10 F. Park Seed sells seeds and plants of these dwarfs. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby Wed Feb 9 18:12:58 EST 1994 Article: 26178 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 01 Feb 94 17:17 PST Subject: Re: Urea for composting leaves Message-ID: <1453300457@cdp> References: <2ijs7g$a7v@news.bu.edu> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 9 urea is a major "chemical" source of N. If you'd rather you can use blood meal or fish emulsion or meal which are derived from animals not petrochemicals. Urea is also good for melting snow and ice without salt damage to street trees etc. It It is fairly cheap. Around here we get it in 50 lb bags for deicing. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby Wed Feb 9 18:12:59 EST 1994 Article: 26179 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 01 Feb 94 17:20 PST Subject: Re: looking for source of Bamboo.... Message-ID: <1453300458@cdp> References: <31JAN94.22150644@shrsys.hslc.org> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 7 Bryan, if you live in North Central PA, you live in zone 5 or in zone 6. Check with your county agent or the library. I'm in Phila which is zone 7. We got down to -5 last month, but my dwarf bamboo looks pretty good. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!morrow.stanford.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:13:00 EST 1994 Article: 26180 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!morrow.stanford.edu!not-for-mail From: HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sara MacGilvra) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Date: 3 Feb 1994 11:42:21 -0800 Organization: Stanford University Lines: 38 Sender: news@morrow.stanford.edu Distribution: usa Message-ID: <2irk2t$3mr@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu > > >In article <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> >molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com writes: > >> Why don't I just dig up the whole fricking yard and plant concrete. >> >> I DON'T THINK SO >> >> The anti-freeze is quick and doesn't cost me time or money. > >It will cost you a LOT of time and money when your neighbor's >2-year-old drinks the antifreze and dies or has serious >neurological damage and your neighbors sue you. People have lost >suits from drownings in unfenced ponds and swimming pools; do you >think that antifreeze _purposely_ left out in the GARDEN is going >to be any different in a court of law ?? > Lawsuit? Try manslaughter charges. And yeah, I think he should plant concrete, that would be better than a toxic waste dump. I'm a gardner, not a pet owner. Sara From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gold!john0130 Wed Feb 9 18:13:01 EST 1994 Article: 26181 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!gold!john0130 From: john0130@gold.tc.umn.edu (Paul G Johnson-1) Subject: Re: Native Grasses Message-ID: Keywords: In Need of an Expert Sender: john0130@gold.tc.umn.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: gold3.tc.umn.edu Organization: University of Minnesota References: Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 19:51:45 GMT Expires: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 06:00:00 GMT Lines: 23 In article , NN2414200-ThomasDP(DR6871)412 wrote: > >grass. I don't really care that this combination >will create a lawn that's not as green or as soft >as bluegrass. We're trying to create a look that >compliments the natural environment. You're right, buffalograss and bluegrama are probably better for your location. >The catalog lists four different varieties of >buffalo grass - Sharp's Improved, Commanche, Texoka, >and Bison. The Sharp's Improved is seed soaked in >potassium nitrate to cause faster germination. There are several new buffalograsses coming out of breeding programs at Nebraska and Texas A&M, but I'm not sure if there is seed available. Up to now, only sod could be purchased. I'll see what I can find out. PJ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!panix!cmcl2!slinky.cs.nyu.edu!felix.cs.nyu.edu!beckman Wed Feb 9 18:13:01 EST 1994 Article: 26182 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!panix!cmcl2!slinky.cs.nyu.edu!felix.cs.nyu.edu!beckman From: beckman@felix.cs.nyu.edu (Leah Beckman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Colorado perennials Date: 3 Feb 1994 16:32:28 GMT Organization: Courant Institute of Mathematical Sciences Lines: 17 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <2ir8us$bh9@slinky.cs.nyu.edu> References: <2igllb$lf4@suntan.eng.usf.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: felix.cs.nyu.edu Keywords: perennials In article <2igllb$lf4@suntan.eng.usf.edu>, lsherry@madonna.ec.usf.edu. (Lorraine Sherry) writes: |> ..... |> I'd appreciate any guidelines you could give me as a soon-to-be |> novice Colorado gardener. |> .... A friend of mine recently moved from the NY area to Colorado Springs and has the same sort of questions. In particular, she has been told that because of the sun being "intense" there you have to be careful about what you plant in the full sun---plants that do well here in the sun need shade there. Anybody know if this is the case? Thanks, Leah PS Lorraine---I tried to e-mail you but it bounced. Could you please forward e-mail messages that you get (on this topic!) to me? beckman@cs.nyu.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:13:02 EST 1994 Article: 26183 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!not-for-mail From: lynn@galaxy.ucr.edu (lynn beckmann) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: chili seeds Date: 3 Feb 1994 12:08:26 -0800 Organization: University of California, Riverside Lines: 14 Message-ID: <2irljq$pss@galaxy.ucr.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: galaxy.ucr.edu A few years ago a friend of mine brought back some chili peppers from a visit back to New York. She told me that they were native to Puerto Rico and gave me some of them. They were some of the most delicious chili peppers I had ever eaten. I have searched for a supply of them ever since with no luck. I have ordered seeds from pretty much every catalogue that sound anything like these peppers, but they have never been the same. These peppers were only about an inch long at full maturity, first green then maturing to red. Can anyone help with this? I would love to get a hold of some seeds to grow these peppers - perhaps someone in the northeast or Puerto Rico could help me find a source or even mail some seeds? Lynn@galaxy.ucr.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!nickel.ucs.indiana.edu!fosterr Wed Feb 9 18:13:04 EST 1994 Article: 26184 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!nickel.ucs.indiana.edu!fosterr From: fosterr@nickel.ucs.indiana.edu (Ray Foster) Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Message-ID: Sender: news@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: nickel.ucs.indiana.edu Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington IN References: <2im9r7$sam@morrow.stanford.edu> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 20:10:05 GMT Lines: 19 In article <2im9r7$sam@morrow.stanford.edu>, Sara MacGilvra wrote: > >I've been told cats see only two dimensions. ... I won't dispute the original poster's assertion that the "cat cutouts" work, but I can definitely say that the above statement is false. Cats have execptionally good depth perception: in fact their field of binocular vision is even wider that that of humans. As hunters, cats rely primarily on stealth and surprise: that pounce wouldn't do much good if they couldn't judge distance distances accurately. Ray -- Raymond W. Foster Internet: fosterr@indiana.edu Music Instructional Services Bitnet: fosterr@indiana School of Music Phone: (812) 855-1803, 855-9023 Indiana University, Bloomington IN USA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson Wed Feb 9 18:13:05 EST 1994 Article: 26185 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson From: carlson@shrsys.hslc.org Subject: Sweetbriar Message-ID: <3FEB94.16463497@shrsys.hslc.org> Sender: news@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 21:46:34 GMT Lines: 7 Can anyone provide me with a source in the US for a rose called Sweetbriar? It is also known as Eglantine. Post answer to list or respond to me directly. Karen Carlson e-mail: carlson@hslc.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!news Wed Feb 9 18:13:05 EST 1994 Article: 26186 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!news From: HEIM@MACC.WISC.EDU (MACCAPPL) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: FAQ?: How long do seeds last? Date: 3 Feb 1994 18:38:45 GMT Organization: UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN -- MADISON Lines: 18 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2irgbl$53e@news.doit.wisc.edu> References: <1453300461@cdp> NNTP-Posting-Host: vms3.macc.wisc.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS v1.25 In-Reply-To: libby@igc.apc.org's message of 01 Feb 94 17:30 PST In <1453300461@cdp> libby@igc.apc.org writes: > Marigolds and basil both retain their vitality for years. Go ahead and plant > your seeds. Of course, if you just left the packets lying around the house, > they may not do so well as seeds that were refrigerated. > > Libby Last year planted some marigolds from seed that was packed for 1989. I didn't even take very good care of the seed packet. It lay opened in a kitchen drawer for 2 years and then in a box in the basement for a year. I got only about 20% germination but still it's pretty amazing. I purposely buy variety packets from seed companies, you know, where you get 5-6 different varieties in separate packets for 1 price. Then I save the seeds from year to year and plant a different color each year. I've done this with snapdragons, marigolds, and impatiens. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:13:06 EST 1994 Article: 26187 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail From: Suzanne-lucia.Demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu (Suzanne-lucia Demitrio) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Date: 3 Feb 1994 21:04:50 GMT Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. Lines: 32 Message-ID: <2iroti$klm@samba.oit.unc.edu> References: <2imd2b$h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb3.024202.22960@ccc.amdahl.com> <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu In article , Karen Ann Woodfork wrote: >People have lost >suits from drownings in unfenced ponds and swimming pools; People have lost suits from drownings in *properly fenced* swimming pools, too. Our laws are screwed. >do you >think that antifreeze _purposely_ left out in the GARDEN is going >to be any different in a court of law ?? What about yew bushes purposely planted in an unfenced garden? The leaves will kill you as sure as antifreeze if you eat them. Ditto foxglove, oleanders, and other garden plants. What about toxic pesticides? Antifreeze in the garden may not be the best idea; but it makes even less sense to suggest that no one should keep anything potentially toxic outdoors. Neighbors must *watch* their two- year-olds. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Suzanne Lucia suzanne-lucia.demitrio@launchpad.unc.edu -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!hobbes!earth.armory.com!jon Wed Feb 9 18:13:09 EST 1994 Article: 26188 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!hobbes!earth.armory.com!jon From: jon@armory.com (Jon Shemitz) Subject: Paging SAOUC@UCCMVSA.bitnet Organization: Midnight Beach Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 20:05:49 GMT Message-ID: Sender: news@armory.com (Usenet News) Nntp-Posting-Host: deeptht.armory.com Lines: 13 I received mail titled "in what part of Calif. do you live?" and it said: > I saw a post of yours on rec.gardens - in what part of Calif. do > you live? I'm trying to build up an e-mailing list of S.F. Bay > Area NETters interested in receiving a Regional Horticultural > Newsletter. Would this be appropriate for you? Do you know of > others on the INTERNET in the S.F. Bay Area? My reply bounced: > Santa Cruz. Yes, I'd like to be on your mailing list; no, I don't > know any other local gardeners on the internet. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!netsys!pagesat.net!olivea!charnel!charnel!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:13:10 EST 1994 Article: 26189 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!netsys!pagesat.net!olivea!charnel!charnel!usenet From: lmetcalf@oavax.csuchico.edu (LORETTA METCALF) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Date: 3 Feb 1994 21:47:12 GMT Organization: California State University, Chico Lines: 48 Message-ID: <2irrd0INNsho@charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu> References: <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Reply-To: lmetcalf@oavax.csuchico.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: oavax.csuchico.edu In article <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Keith William Bowes) writes: (STUFF DELETED).........What tomato should should be planted >Since last fall I've subconsciously been thinking OG50 was the way to >go. All I've been hearing since last falls crop was harvested was >raves about OG50.....OG50......OG50. But when I sat down and really >thought about it, I realized the places I'd been hearing all this >praise was in Organic Gardening magazine and on Jeff Cox's (pathetic >IMHO) tv show. Are these unbiased opinions? I think not. If (STUFF DELETED)......... a type >of tomato is named after your bread-n-butter, are you gonna say >it stinks? And how many letters to the editor are going to print >saying "I've had nothing but bad luck with OG50"? > >(I can tell you all about OG50's history; it is an improved Park's >Whopper, it is named for Organic Gardening's 50th anniversary (or >something like that), etc. These facts have been drilled into our >heads for 18 months from the sources listed above. But I CANNOT tell >you how well OG50 grows or tastes). YAAAAYYYY! Keith! Finally, someone who said what I've been thinking about OG50. As a former newspaper publisher, I realize the incest that exists between advertisers and the publishing business. But in this case, as a subscriber of Organic Gardening for over 20 years, I've seen more and more of a connection between the seed catalogues and OG's articles. The last straw for me was Park's "new" tomatoe and OG's pimping of it. I am glad that there are others out there who feel the same. As far as trying new tomatoes, how about trying old tomatoes? Brandywine, Pruden's Purple? I have had great sucess with Viva Italian Paste for drying and packing in oil, for making into sauce and/or paste and freezing, and last but not least for using in salads that hold up to tossing and not making the salad too juicy. Good luck, try two plants of alot of varieties and see what you like. :-) Loretta ...................................................... Loretta J. Metcalf lmetcalf@oavax.csuchico.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU!kaw6m Wed Feb 9 18:13:11 EST 1994 Article: 26190 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU!kaw6m From: kaw6m@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Karen Ann Woodfork) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: University of Virginia References: <1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk> <1994Feb1.093437.22170@cobra.uni.edu> <1994Feb2.202222.17236@TorreyPinesCA.ncr.com> <2ir3h4$55d@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 16:08:12 GMT Lines: 13 Actually, cats in the garden CAN be a good thing. Rabbits were eating everything until my husband's cat decided to take her day-long nap in the bean patch. I guess the scent of cat kept the bunnies from returning even when she wasn't there. -K -- ---------- ------- ----- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU!clb5q Wed Feb 9 18:13:12 EST 1994 Article: 26191 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU!clb5q From: clb5q@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Cheryl L. Boyd) Subject: Organic Peaches Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: uva Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 18:55:42 GMT Lines: 12 I'd like to get some information on growing organic peach trees here in the Piedmont of Virginia. The peach tree borer has been doing me in for years now with nothing but chemical suggestions for his demise. I have finally had to cut down the trees and plan to start over this year. Any suggestions for good varieties of trees that are less suseptible to disease and borers or organic means of eliminating same? If this is not the best place for organic questions let me know. I haven't seen anything that looked specifically organic on the net. Many thanks! Cheryl From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!utnut!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!src.dec.com!crl.dec.com!jac.zko.dec.com!dssdev.enet.dec.com!rust Wed Feb 9 18:13:14 EST 1994 Article: 26192 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!utnut!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!src.dec.com!crl.dec.com!jac.zko.dec.com!dssdev.enet.dec.com!rust From: rust@dssdev.enet.dec.com (Elizabeth Rust) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Date: 3 FEB 94 13:13:02 Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation Lines: 28 Message-ID: <2irf2h$iks@jac.zko.dec.com> References: <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: IFDL In article <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Keith William Bowes) writes... ... >(I can tell you all about OG50's history; it is an improved Park's >Whopper, it is named for Organic Gardening's 50th anniversary (or >something like that), etc. These facts have been drilled into our >heads for 18 months from the sources listed above. But I CANNOT tell >you how well OG50 grows or tastes). > I've been intrigued by this one, too, although as you say, I've only seen it hyped in OG (which I happen to like, btw!) and in the Park catalog, both of which may have their own agendas. But I think I'm going to try it this year, just to see for myself - after all, growing conditions have quite an impact on the plants, too, and it may be that it works well in my garden no matter what it does elsewhere. As for other types to try: have you ever tried Brandywine? It's an indeterminate heirloom type, grows like a weed, and produces *huge* beefsteak tomatoes with a very fine flavor. Takes a while to get going, but once it starts producing it keeps on. It's supposedly not as disease-resistant as modern varieties, but if that's not a problem where you are you might consider it. Beth Rust Digital Equipment Corp. Nashua, NH rust@ifdl.enet.dec.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!cunews!psmith Wed Feb 9 18:13:18 EST 1994 Article: 26193 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@alfred.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 18:41:35 GMT Lines: 17 I grew OG50 last year, and -- although germination was the pits -- they were very nice tomatoes, with very few problems. I agree that the OG reviews were too biased, but there is another indicator of expected quality. I have met many people who swore by the Whopper for years. Unless I'm mistaken, Park replaced the Whopper with the OG50 this year. I can't imagine that Park would replace the Whopper with anything but a great beefsteak tomato. ----------------------------- On another note, I have been very satisfied with the taste of "Ultra Sweet VFT" over the last few years. They really are noticeably sweeter than many others. The one source I know of is Stokes. Have fun From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:13:21 EST 1994 Article: 26194 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!usenet From: mikeb@radonc.ucdmc.ucdavis.edu Subject: RE: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Guru) Organization: UC Davis References: ,<2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 22:00:50 GMT Lines: 34 bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Keith William Bowes) writes: > >Greetings all... > > [ much deleted] > >I'm open to all opinions, good or bad, regarding OG50 or any other >type of tomato you think would be a good choice as this year's >"alternate" in my garden. (Including the cherry's. This year I plan >to try the Sweet 100's. Are these the best? Are there some better?) > >(Please keep in mind, I live right on the shore of Lake Erie in >northeastern Ohio. VERY good conditions for growing tomatoes, but >obviously it's not 90 degrees every day all summer and the growing >season is not 250 days long.) > >Thanks in advance for any opinions. I'll post results if interest >exists or if the thread catches on or if I get a lot of mail. Well, last year I grew mostly Dona and Carmello and was impressed with both! I can't really grow anything that isn't VFN resistant since I am in the middle of a large commercial tomato growing area, so that limits my choice a bit. I also grew a Better Boy (dependable and good) and some cherry's (red and yellow pear types). I can pick tomatoes from early July thru October, warm (avg is over 94) days, mild nights (about 60) during much of the summer and early fall. Oh, both the above are French market hybrids; I got my seeds from Shepherds. (bug me if you want the address/phone; it's at home). Mike From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bsd!apollo!aphrodite.it.luc.edu!SLEWIS Wed Feb 9 18:13:23 EST 1994 Article: 26195 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bsd!apollo!aphrodite.it.luc.edu!SLEWIS From: SLEWIS@mail.luc.edu (Scott Lewis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Fall flowers Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 15:39:41 Organization: Loyola University of Chicago Lines: 6 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: aphrodite.it.luc.edu X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] I was hoping someone at r.g. could help me out by e-mailing me with the names of a few flowers that grow in the fall. I'm writing a short story that takes place in September and October. Someone out gardening in the yard plays an important role in a couple scenes. Thanks in advance. Scott L. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!jojo Wed Feb 9 18:13:24 EST 1994 Article: 26196 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!jojo From: jojo@leland.Stanford.EDU (Joanne Spetz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Date: 3 Feb 1994 22:36:39 GMT Organization: Stanford University, CA 94305, USA Lines: 23 Message-ID: <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> References: <> <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: power.stanford.edu bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Keith William Bowes) writes: >>I'm open to all opinions, good or bad, regarding OG50 or any other >>type of tomato you think would be a good choice as this year's >>"alternate" in my garden. I got my first Park's Seed catalog last month. They offer a packet of the OG50 as a bonus if you order $15 or more (maybe they offered this because I'm a first-time buyer). Why not, if Park's has other seeds you want? Speaking of which, how will tomatoes do in a container? I've dedicated every inch of vegetable space I have to other things but figure I'll give the "free" seeds a try. When should I start the seeds? My last tomato attempt was about or fifteen years ago, when I was but a kid. Thanks, Joanne -- Joanne Spetz Department of Economics jojo@leland.stanford.edu Stanford University "Argue for your limitations, and sure enough, they're yours." -R.Bach From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Wed Feb 9 18:13:25 EST 1994 Article: 26197 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Urea for composting leave From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4450.2552.0N41F2C6@gcbb.granite.mn.org> References: <2ijs7g$a7v@news.bu.edu> Date: Wed, 2 Feb 94 20:16:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 111 Subject: Urea for composting leave B>Yo! Mr. Compost!!! ;^) (Hey, or anybody else who knows!) B>The gardening column in the Sunday paper mentioned adding urea as the >"cheapest" effective way to add nitrogen to masses of autumn leaves for >composting. And nothing more. B>Being unaware of "urea" except in a vague way as a component of urine, unless >even THAT is wrong, can anyone enlighten me? Yo! Sherry! The entire MN.ORG (Minnesota Internet) news feed has been down since last Friday and I am going through UseNet withdrawal. Mail just came back on line today. Urea, a topic near and dear to my heart, or is it my bladder. You certainly remember that song from "West Side Story" that went like this: Urea, I just met a girl named Urea...... On the question about using chemical fertilizers in the compost pile, especially as a nitrogen supplement: Whenever possible, I try to use organic nitrogen from grass clippings, table scraps, manures, seed meal, blood meal, or fish emulsion. Organic forms of N are not always available and that some compost feedstocks such as leaves and paper decompose much better with supplemental N, and often the only available form may be synthetic. I have used urea (45-0-0) and ammonium nitrate (27-0-0) in some of commercial composting operations where there is a high carbon feedstock, usually paper and corrugated containers. I have used manures, sludges, and grass when available, but I consult for businesses and lowest cost is often the concern. N from chemical sources is utilized by composting organisms just as is N from organic sources. Oil, coal, and natural gas were once living matter. The chemical N that is extracted works in the compost pile to help provide the Nitrogen in the carbon to nitrogen balance. In one definition, organic means "contains carbon". Some organic purists object to adding synthetic N to compost piles. I do not. I avoid synthetic fertilizers in the garden since compost properly used provides all the nutrients needed. But when a compost is deficient in N, I see no problem in letting the composting organisms convert it into organic forms. A few pounds of chemical N in a leaf pile helps householders recycle more leaves, and I believe that the result is beneficial. The ratio to add N depends on the C/N ration of the high carbon material you are trying to decompose. Leaves at 90-1 CN ratio behave differently than sawdust at 200-1. For leaves at 90-1, use about one pound of NET N per dense cubic yard. Urea at 45-0-0 means about 2 lbs, since the "45" means percentage of total weight. A fertilizer at 20-0-0 would require five pounds to get one net pound. By dense leaves, I mean either shredded or moistened and partially decomposed to the point of being darkened, almost mouldy. Three yards of dry leaves are equal to about one yard of dense leaves. Try to get the N in a soluble condition and thoroughly mix it with the leaves, perhaps using a sprayer. This compromise of using chemical N is for high carbon compost piles, and is not an argument in favor of chemicalized gardening. The loss of the soil ecosystem coupled with repeated oxidizing and leaching characteristic of chemically intensive farming is destructive. While I agree that a case can be made for the destructive properties of certain herbicides and pesticides, or even biocides in general, I am not convinced by that chemical fertilizers are, in and of themselves, a biohazard. As I see it, there is a often a period of "weaning" gardeners from chemicals as the soil is brought back to life. Over time, the chemicals can be withdrawn. It is hard for gardeners trained in chemical use to quit cold turkey. My watchword is soil improvement and the _long term_ sustainability of the soil. Organic N behaves differently in the soil that chemical N that must be replaced each year. Studies show the organic N availability formula of 40% first year, 20% second, 15% third, 10% fourth, and 5% fifth. This demonstrates that organic sources of N have a carry over value. It appears, if I can get back to the availability issue, that once organic N has been absorbed by the available biological soil ecosystem, the rest of the N is held in reserve for the next season. With chemical sources, what isn't used by the plant that year is usually lost. There is hardly any carryover. One thing to keep in mind is that some of the measures of productivity that come from chemical dependency are false yields. While bushels may be up, protein may be down. While the size of a vegetable may be higher from chemical sources, it may be because of excess water. As this gardener sees it, taste, nutrient availability, and vitality are more important than quantitative yield. An organic field of corn may not yield the same bushels as a chemically fertilized field, but the corn will be of a higher vitality value. Vitality is difficult to measure, but we simply *know* that a garden ripe tomato is *better* than a hydroponically grown one. How's that for empirical data? It is true that the energy input equation of using organic sources of N, especially home grown N like grass clippings, will show up better on the sustainability balance sheet. So I guess that the bottom line is that if you are going to use chemical N, adding it to the compost pile is the best place to do it, and with high C materials to be composted, it helps. Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 2nd - Money! Its a hit. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.sprintlink.net!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!megatek!redman Wed Feb 9 18:13:27 EST 1994 Article: 26198 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens,rec.pets.dogs Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.sprintlink.net!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!megatek!redman From: redman@megatek.com (Tim Redfield) Subject: Toxicant question Message-ID: <1994Feb3.211507.20326@megatek.com> Sender: redman@megatek.com (Tim Redfield) Organization: Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 21:15:07 GMT Lines: 28 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu misc.consumers.house:46954 rec.gardens:26198 rec.pets.dogs:52816 I am considering having my yard sprayed with Dursban to remedy a flea problem that is causing my dogs extreme discomfort. Normally by wintertime the problem is gone, but not this year. I have concerns about the implications with respect to animals and people, specifically young children. The pest company tells me that when the spray dries it is then non-toxic, and in the next breath informs me that there is enough residual to kill fleas that hatch for about 30 days. My questions are: 1) Is it really non-toxic when dry or just bound to the soil, grass, brick, etc., and not likely to rub off on you? 2) If it gets wet again in say, 24 hours, does the danger present itself again? 3) Does the toxin really break down after a period of time. What is the mechanism? To be really safe should all contact with the sprayed areas be avoided until this "break-down" has occurred? Thanx in advance. All input appreciated. P.S. I posted to sci.chem but received no response, so I thought I would try some of the more down-to-earth groups. -- | Tim Redfield INTERNET: redman@megatek.com | | "I love the smell of salt water in the morning - | | it smells like... victory!" | From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!metasoft!rln Wed Feb 9 18:13:28 EST 1994 Article: 26199 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!metasoft!rln From: rln@metasoft.UUCP (Roberta Norin) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Chelsea Flower Show - Tickets Message-ID: <5761@metasoft.UUCP> Date: 3 Feb 94 23:07:27 GMT References: <2ih0is$dnj@nemesis.muppet.bt.co.uk> <759963092snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Organization: Meta Software Corporation, Cambridge MA Lines: 21 Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) writes: >In article <2ih0is$dnj@nemesis.muppet.bt.co.uk> > eamonn@muppet.bt.co.uk "Eamonn O'Byrne" writes: >> Can anybody tell me how I could get my hands on a couple of tickets for the >> Chelsea Flower Show in May? >> >Rather than e-mail a reply, I'll post this publicly in case anyone else is >interstested. Tickets will be available from the Royal Horticultural Society, >80 Vincent Square, London SW1P 2PE. Telephone 071-834-4333. >Gary Cooper Can anyone tell me the dates of the show. I`m hoping to be in England in May and wish to coordinate with those dates. Thanks, Roberta Norin rln@metasoft.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!server!carnes!carnes Wed Feb 9 18:13:29 EST 1994 Article: 26200 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!server!carnes!carnes From: carnes@carnes.stortek.com (Steve Carnes(nn)) Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Message-ID: Sender: usenet@stortek.com Nntp-Posting-Host: carnes.stortek.com Reply-To: steve_carnes@stortek.com Organization: Storage Technology Corporation X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] References: <2irrd0INNsho@charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 22:44:01 GMT Lines: 28 Last year, I grew 5 kinds of tomatoes, here in Boulder. OG50 was *great*! The plants were sturdy, grew to about 5 feet high (caged), and produced tons of fruit, each roughly 4" and absolutely perfect, blemish-free, meaty, and delicious. The other varieties were a paste, a yellow cherry, a 3", and a 5", all Siberian heirlooms from High Altitude Seeds in Idaho. My 2-year old loved the cherries, because she could easily pick and eat them (they were wonderful halved in salads), and the 3" Siberian was probably the most prolific tomato I've ever experienced. The paste was just starting to really produce when the late October hard frosts hit. This year, I'll be planting 4 OG50's, 4 yellow cherries, 2 paste, and 2 of the 3" Siberians, all started from seed. (I'll actually be starting a lot more to give away to various relatives and neighbors!) I disagree that Organic Gardening (and other mags) is in league with just one or two nurseries. When OG prints an article on peppers, or tomatoes, or corn, or whatever, there is usually also printed a table summarizing all the mentioned varieties and their sources. These sources can number in the dozens, and include both heirlooms and hybrids. Organic Gardening is justifiably proud of "their" tomato, or "tomatoe" as Dan Quail would spel it. -- Steve Carnes steve_carnes@stortek.com "To save what wilderness is left in the American Southwest -- and in the American Southwest only the wilderness is worth saving -- we are going to need all the recruits we can get." - Edward Abbey From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!tjuvm!tawyea Wed Feb 9 18:13:31 EST 1994 Article: 26201 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!tjuvm!tawyea Nntp-Posting-Host: 147.140.130.20 Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 17:35:59 +0000 From: tawyea@jeflin.tju.edu () Newsgroups: rec.gardens Followup-To: rec.gardens Distribution: world Subject: Re: Urea for composting leaves Message-ID: References: <2ijs7g$a7v@news.bu.edu> Lines: 31 I'm rairly certain that Frank's Nurseries carries urea in about 5 lb. bags. It's also available through a variety of catalogs under "organic fertilizers". If I were home right now I'd list some for you. In article <2ijs7g$a7v@news.bu.edu>, bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) wrote: > Yo! Mr. Compost!!! ;^) (Hey, or anybody else who knows!) > > The gardening column in the Sunday paper mentioned adding urea as the > "cheapest" effective way to add nitrogen to masses of autumn leaves for > composting. And nothing more. > > Being unaware of "urea" except in a vague way as a component of urine, unless > even THAT is wrong, can anyone enlighten me? > > I get the impression he was talking about a cheap fertilizer sold in dry form, > since he mentioned rain water aiding in the distribution of the handsful of > urea he tossed into the heap! > > *IS* this the stuff to use when you don't have lawn clippings or other > living nitrogen? If so, where and how do you get it? (Feed store? > Bagged or bulk??) (I don't remember ever seeing it in the nurseries > or garden stores I've been to, although I may have missed it, so I'm > very interested -- my oak trees are into their midwinter shedding and > I will have many leaves in the spring!) > > Thanks! > > Sherry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!tjuvm!tawyea Wed Feb 9 18:13:32 EST 1994 Article: 26202 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!tjuvm!tawyea Nntp-Posting-Host: 147.140.130.20 Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 17:40:11 +0000 From: tawyea@jeflin.tju.edu () Newsgroups: rec.gardens Followup-To: rec.gardens Distribution: usa Subject: Re: FAQ?: How long do seeds last? Message-ID: References: <759893522snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Lines: 33 I believe that most seed remain viable for many years. However, you will probably find that each year a smaller percentage will germinate. I agree, it's worth a try. In article <759893522snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk>, Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) wrote: > In article jin@spdcc.com "Jerry Natowitz" writes: > > > > I looked for an FAQ posting, but none appeared, so: > > I have a few packets of seeds for the 93 season (Marigolds) and one > > from 92 (Spicy Globe Basil). Are these worth planting? > > -- > *Big* question there! Generally speaking, seed should be stored in a dry, dark > airy space at 1-5 degrees C (34-41 F) but, providing it hasn't been abused > (stored near a radiator, or in a damp place etc) it should be fine. Most > commercially available seeds (in the U.K. at any rate - can't speak for the > U.S.A.) are sold, hermetically sealed, in foil packets which effectively halts > the seeds' deterioration so, if unopened, they should be fine. If they have > come from a packet which you have previously opened, and which has been stored > too hot or in damp conditions they *may* have gone off. Having said that, > marigolds, at least, are resilient brutes so give them a go! > > What makes this a *big* question is that seed life (and optimal storage > conditions) varies considerably from species to species. However, it costs so > little to try seeds out that it is always (IMHO) worth a go. I have tomato seed > which is *many* years old and still going strong: the only care I have given > the long-since opened packet is to have stored it in a biscuit tin. > > Hope that helps, > -- > Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah Wed Feb 9 18:13:33 EST 1994 Article: 26203 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah From: leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seed starting en masse -- mature results? Message-ID: <1329@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 3 Feb 94 20:48:29 GMT References: <2ieahe$6ag@news.bu.edu> Reply-To: leah@smith.chi.il.us (L.A.Z. Smith) Organization: R. H. E. Smith Corp., Wheeling, IL Lines: 65 In article <2ieahe$6ag@news.bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >I am curious about the viability of starting perennials from seeds vs. buying >plants from nurseries or mail order catalogs. > >I'm sure the results depends to a large extens on the specific plant, but if >you are doing some landscaping and want a fairly large number of plants for >drifts, what is the practical likelihood of successfully obtaining them >from seed? Starting with a dollar plus packet of seeds (say delphineum), >with whatever the typical germination rate is, does the aggravation and >cost (for whatever equipment and supplies and electricity for lights and >whatever else) still work out to savings over simply buying healthy mature >plants? ... >Opinions? I need to be thrifty, I prefer instantaneous results ( ;^) ) >and I hate to waste time with mistakes -- like Michigan Bulb Company, for >example!! I can manage SOME seed starting in my house, but lighting is >a limiting factor (I have one bank of flourescents, and could add one more, >possibly, but there is little sunlight available.) And I am selectively >searching out things suitable for my site and plans from much research in >many books, so I want VERY specific varieties and colors of things, some >of which are not available at local nurseries (or are expensive.) The answer, as I'm sure you suspected, is it depends. I would start by getting a good book on seed starting and researching the relative ease of starting the seeds of the particular varieties you are interested in. Some varieties are readily grown from seed and those it is indeed quite worthwhile to grow. If you buy inexpensive shoplights you can start a great many plants fairly cheaply (of course, the cost goes down the longer you do this -- I grow some plants from seed every year, so my lights were long ago paid off). Depending on your climate, you also can set up some cold frames. Some plants, however, are a pain in the neck to grow from seed -- germination rates are poor, or slow, or whatever -- and some must be propagated vegetatively, so for those you'll want to buy plants. If thrift is your main aim, then starting easy varieties from seed is definitely worth it. If instant results are more important then it depends even more on variety. Some fast-growing varieties may still be worth starting from seed, but others you may want to buy mature plants (note that Bluestone sells 1st year seedlings, so they aren't your best choice here). Slow growers may need some nursing in the garden, may not flower the first year, will take a while to fill in. Again, you'll have to do research. I've grown a number of perennial herbs, Shasta daisies, Stokesia, and a few others quite successfully from seed. But some (Caper plant and Perilla, for example) totally failed to germinate. I have a seed-starting set-up mainly for vegetables and annuals, though, so for me it's worth experimenting with the perennials as all I have to lose are the seeds and the starting media. One hint -- one way to determine which varieties are easy to start from seed is to go to your garden center and look at what's available there. Don't look at the Thompson and Morgan display, but at the more ordinary garden store seed packets, like Northrup King. They tend only to sell types that are readily grown. My daisies, for example, came from a 10-cent bin of seeds at the dime store. I wish more seed companies gave information about the ease of starting seeds of the different varieties in their catalogs. Chances are, however, that easy kinds are more ubiquitous than difficult varieties. Leah Smith leah@smith.chi.il.us From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Wed Feb 9 18:13:34 EST 1994 Article: 26204 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 4 Feb 1994 00:01:07 GMT Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 54 Sender: bailey@butyng.bu.edu Distribution: usa Message-ID: <2is383$k3p@news.bu.edu> References: <2irk2t$3mr@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: butyng.bu.edu May I try to summarize in a hopefully unbiased way?? There are nice pets and their are problem pets. Cats that cause problems to people other than their owners are problem pets. (So are dogs that do the same thing.) There are responsible pet owners and there are irresponsible pet owners. Pet owners who allow their pets to wander around in other people's yards, causing damage, leaving feces, etc. are irresponsible pet owners. Often these people are also bad neighbors in other ways and deny responsibility even when given evidence (or PROOF) of the claims. They are also often vindictive and take personal action if affronted, even if with legitimate cause. They frequently do NOT legally license their pets where it is required, so tags and collars are often missing. There are gardeners/homeowners/landscapers/etc. who are bothered by other people's pets and some who are not. Those who are bothered may or may NOT be pet woners themselves. Many of them resent the idea that they should have to take defensive action at personal cost to control a problem of someone else's making. This is NOT an unreasonable attitude, but it may be an unsolvable problem. People, in general, have strong emotions about cats, dogs and children all of which DO cause trouble for other people at times. Some people rise to the defense of ALL of the above, all of the time, regardless of their culpability. Some people tend to feel hostile against any or all of the above all of the time, especially if they themselves do not possess any or all of the above yet have to "protect" themselves against damages caused by them. Nobody is saying that nice pets owned by responsible owners are a problem or need a solution. For those who are interpreting things that way, calm down! (The only post I saw that even impinged on that suggested that all pet owners pay higher licensing fees, and I think the poster of that idea might reconsider if they think about the likelihood that more pet owners -- especially the irresponsible ones -- will simply own unlicensed pets.) But the fact remains that a solution IS needed and justifiable for the damage caused by problem pets. None of us live in the "wild" any more. Could we cease and desist with the name calling and the illegal options (like poison, which makes a satisfyingly hostile vent to SAY but is both immoral and dangerous) and simply discuss any WORKING solutions (pro and con) and realize that opinions vary? (I wonder if some people are getting upset because they find themselves being classed in my "irresponsible" category when they never considered themselves that way before -- that cats, specifically, SHOULD be allowed to run free in their minds, so they don't like to think of the problems the cats may cause for others. But DON'T tell me! I don't want to hear about it!!!) OK, I admit I'm not unbiased -- but I HOPE that was FAIR anyhow! Sherry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!morrow.stanford.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:13:35 EST 1994 Article: 26205 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!morrow.stanford.edu!not-for-mail From: HF.SXM@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sara MacGilvra) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Date: 3 Feb 1994 13:17:28 -0800 Organization: Stanford University Lines: 29 Sender: news@morrow.stanford.edu Distribution: usa Message-ID: <2irpl8$ka0@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu In article , fosterr@nickel.ucs.indiana.edu (Ray Foster) writes: >In article <2im9r7$sam@morrow.stanford.edu>, >Sara MacGilvra wrote: >> >>I've been told cats see only two dimensions. ... > >I won't dispute the original poster's assertion that the "cat cutouts" work, >but I can definitely say that the above statement is false. Thanks for clarifying. Thats why I said "I've been told" I didn't know if it was true or not, I suspected it wasn't for the reasons you stated. I do know I don't have cat visitors that hang around long enough to do their business anymore since I stuck these things in the garden. Sara >Indiana University, Bloomington IN USA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth Wed Feb 9 18:13:36 EST 1994 Article: 26206 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth From: ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Message-ID: Sender: news@cs.cmu.edu (Usenet News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: organ.music.cs.cmu.edu Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon References: <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 20:12:59 GMT Lines: 41 In article <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil>, Jean Kirwin wrote: > >I have experienced a repeated problem with starting plants from seeds. Most >often, the sprouts reach a length of about an inch and a half and they begin >to slant over. Eventually, most of them end up completely on their side and >dead. What is happening and what can I do to prevent this? I'm sure I am >not overwatering/underwatering. > >Jean Jean: I think you may have a problem with damping off. A sure sign of it is if there is a little "dent" in the middle of the stem of the seedling. If this dent turns brown and if the plant bends there as it is dying, then you probably have a problem with damping off. My experience has been that this problem (caused by a fungus, as far as I know) is caused by overwatering, poor air circulation, or both. I have had virtually no damping off since I began using APS starter kits from Gardener's Supply company. Their system involves a wicking mat and bottom watering, which keeps the top of the soil, where the fungus seems to live, relatively dry. You could try easing up on the water, and turning on a gentle fan in the vicinity of your seedlings. Make sure you use good sterile seed starting mix. When I first began gardening, I used topsoil to start my seeds and that seemed to be the absolute worst stuff to use. Vermiculite is good too; but the seed start mixture that Gardener's Supply sells has been the best so far. I have read posts on this board where people complained about APS. But I love them. You can go on a short vacation and not worry about over or under-wateri, and it seems to give very strong root development, since the roots are always reaching for the water at the bottom, rather than hanging around at the top of the container. So I cast a strong vote in favor of the APS system. Well, good luck. Ruth Sample > > > From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:13:38 EST 1994 Article: 26207 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!usenet From: M. Brandes Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: roses and black spot Date: 3 Feb 1994 23:39:04 GMT Organization: Univ. of Houston Lines: 26 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2is1uo$6i6@menudo.uh.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: tecate.cc.uh.edu Keywords: roses black-spot X-Newsreader: In article <94033.154137U57097@uicvm.uic.edu> MARILYN YOUNG writes: >Can anyone suggest a good old-fashioned or David Austin rose which is especiall >y resistant to black spot? ------------------------------------------------------------------- ___________________________________________________________________ from M. Brandes EMAIL to mbrandes@uh.edu I garden in the black-spot capital, Houston TX..........and there are several that get none: almost all of the Tea roses, like Mrs. B. R. Cant (1905), Maman Cochet, Perle d'Or, Mme. Lombard, etc. A very hardy modern shrub, Carefree Beauty, is truly immune to any disease here and blooms continuously. The most disease free Austin rose I have grown has been L.D.Braithwait a ruby red everblooming large shrub. All the rest seem to get b.s. because of their Floribunda blood lines. If your looking for a somewhat tender climber with frequent deep yellow fragrant double blooms.....get Marechal Neal (1865), it's also free of disease and very vigorous. It's a Noisette. Reve d'Or ,another Noisette is also disease free. _____________________________________________________________________ --------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:13:40 EST 1994 Article: 26208 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!usenet From: M. L. Brandes Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: David Austin books Date: 3 Feb 1994 22:04:18 GMT Organization: U. of Houston Lines: 22 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2irsd2$p53@menudo.uh.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: tecate.cc.uh.edu Keywords: roses antiques X-Newsreader: In article DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) writes: >Well, since we poor unfortunate northerners are all reduced to poring over >printed matter, let me venture to ask a question about books. > >Has anyone seen *both* "David Austin's Old Roses and English Roses" *and* >"English Roses", also by David Austin? According to Books in Print, >they were published in the same year--what's the deal? Every bookstore in >town has offered to special order thm for me, and although I would glady buy >both if I were sure they were significantly different, I don't want to part >with that much money for non-organic matter only to end up with duplicates. > Comments from M. Brandes (mbrandes@uh.edu) in Houston Texas: The David Austin book on Old Roses and English Roses has a much larger scope covering all classes of Antique Roses plus a couple of chapters on his English roses. The photography is superb and the descriptions are useful, but it is pricey. The other book -- English Roses is strictly on his own introductions and this is probably all you need if you are going to specialize in them. I believe the price is about $25. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:13:41 EST 1994 Article: 26209 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!not-for-mail From: lynn@galaxy.ucr.edu (lynn beckmann) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Dursban Date: 3 Feb 1994 16:36:37 -0800 Organization: University of California, Riverside Lines: 19 Message-ID: <2is5al$217@galaxy.ucr.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: galaxy.ucr.edu Dursban, otherwise known as Lorsban, contains the active ingredient chlorpyrifos. Chlorpyrifos is a class II toxicity compound for oral injestion - which means that it is rather toxic if injested. The relative toxicity of chlorpyrifos for dermal contact or inhalation is rather low by comparison. It is irrelevent whether the carrier is wet or dry, the toxicity does not change. The chlorpyrifos does not "bind" to the soil or to brick or anything else in a chemical sense. It's persistence is proportional to its initially applied concentration. Lorsban is used commercially on food crops - in concentrations low enough to allow for a seven day degredation. Not knowing at what concentration your applicator plans on using for flea abatement, I couldn't tell you how long it would persist in your soil. Alternative methods for flea abatement may be preferable if children are likely to be receptors, afterall kids do get soil in their mouths. BTW, chlorpyrifos is rather toxic to fish and birds. Lynn...............as always............my opinions are all mine........ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!gumby!wmichgw!157ochs Wed Feb 9 18:13:42 EST 1994 Article: 26210 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!gumby!wmichgw!157ochs From: 157ochs@gw.wmich.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: test(& 6 more weeks til spring) Message-ID: <1994Feb3.205221.14482@gw.wmich.edu> Date: 3 Feb 94 20:52:21 EST References: <1994Feb2.202038.14452@gw.wmich.edu> Organization: Western Michigan University Lines: 10 In article <1994Feb2.202038.14452@gw.wmich.edu>, x92ochs1@gw.wmich.edu writes: > testing > Now testing to see if I can reply to things(the system here has been screwed up lately.) Jeff BTW the groundhog managed to see his shadow(through the clouds!) so I guess we have 6 more weeks 'til spring! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!nic.csu.net!clstad!mjpaul Wed Feb 9 18:13:43 EST 1994 Article: 26211 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!nic.csu.net!clstad!mjpaul Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: David Austin books Message-ID: <1994Feb3.123756.1@clstad> From: mjpaul@vmsc.is.csupomona.edu (Melissa Paul x3081) Date: 3 Feb 94 12:37:56 PST References: <2h2som$3rj@gap.cco.caltech.edu> Organization: California State Polytechnic University, Pomona Nntp-Posting-Host: vmsc.is.csupomona.edu Lines: 43 In article , DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) writes: > Well, since we poor unfortunate northerners are all reduced to poring over > printed matter, let me venture to ask a question about books. > > Has anyone seen *both* "David Austin's Old Roses and English Roses" *and* > "English Roses", also by David Austin? According to Books in Print, > they were published in the same year--what's the deal? Every bookstore in > town has offered to special order thm for me, and although I would glady buy > both if I were sure they were significantly different, I don't want to part > with that much money for non-organic matter only to end up with duplicates. > > Thanks for any insight--and please, keep the DA reports coming--I'm starting > a rose garden from scratch and intend to profit from your collected virtual > wisdom! > > -donna I bought Old Roses and English Roses last year. It is a paperback and filled with wonderful info on old roses like gallicas and albas as well as David Austin's English Roses. However, some of the photos are in black and white and not reproduced as well as in his large hardbound book on roses (can't remember the name of this book, but something like Heritage of the Rose??). Our library just got a copy of the book David Austin's English Roses. It is hardbound and gorgeous! It is also unlike his other books. He has rated many of his roses with one to three stars for an overall assessment and for fragrance. He has also included growing diagrams on many varieties showing their height and shape and has been very frank on disease resistance. Oh, but those photographs. Makes me want them all. He does discuss old roses but mainly on how he used them to produce English Roses. There is even a chapter on the method he uses to produce new roses. If you are more interested in the English Roses, try this book. Otherwise, I would recommend trying to get his other hardbound book which includes old roses and has better quality photographs than Old Rose and English Roses. Melissa Paul Curator, W. K. Kellogg Arabian Horse Library California State Polytechnic University, Pomona INTERNET mjpaul@csupomona.edu VOICE (909)869-3081 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!toads.pgh.pa.us!hudson.lm.com!telerama.lm.com!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:13:44 EST 1994 Article: 26212 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!toads.pgh.pa.us!hudson.lm.com!telerama.lm.com!not-for-mail From: sbenton@telerama.lm.com (Scott Benton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Deer ate my Yews Date: 3 Feb 1994 21:17:54 -0500 Organization: Telerama Public Access Internet, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 8 Message-ID: <2isb8i$k0q@telerama.lm.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: telerama.lm.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] After consuming my rhodedendron during a recent cold, snowy snap, the deer proceded to begin stripping my yews. We had another snowstorm, and I put snow over them, stopping the deer for the time being. The yews aren't completely stripped. Will the greenery come back? -- Scott D. Benton Optimism indicates that the situation sbenton@telerama.lm.com has not been clearly understood. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af763 Wed Feb 9 18:13:45 EST 1994 Article: 26213 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af763 From: af763@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John V Matthews Jr.) Subject: Thunbergia propogation Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: af763@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (John V Matthews Jr.) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 01:38:34 GMT Lines: 11 Need advise on preparation of Thunbergia seed for propogation. Thanks, John -- ***************************************** JOHN MATTHEWS matthews@cc2smtp.emr.ca; af763@freenet.carleton.ca From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!paperboy.amoco.com!apctrc!msc.edu!news.gac.edu!news.gac.edu!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:13:46 EST 1994 Article: 26214 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!paperboy.amoco.com!apctrc!msc.edu!news.gac.edu!news.gac.edu!usenet From: "Brian O'Brien" Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: terrarium plants ? Date: Thu, 3 Feb 94 17:09:25 CST Organization: Gustavus Adolphus College Lines: 40 Message-ID: <17861.bobrien@hermes.gac.edu> Reply-To: NNTP-Posting-Host: obrien-office.gac.edu X-Minuet-Version: Minuet1.0_Beta_6 X-POPMail-Charset: English To: FLETCHERK@delphi.com On Sun, 2 Jan 94 09:46:46 EST, wrote: >Has anyone out there had experience with terrariums? I have an old >aquarium which I would like make into a terrarium. I would like to find >plants for a cool, shady, humid envirnonment. I've got some baby ferns to >start with. Can anyone recommend some personal favorites? For a terrarium with a relatively static atmosphere (no forced aeration), the orchid Haemaria (Ludisia) discolor does well. This is one of a group of terrestrial or semiterrestrial orchids which are grown mainly for the leaves and a re called `jewel orchids'. H. discolor has very dark velvety more or less greenish purple leaves with pink veins, and rather peculiar, highly asymmetric white flowers with a yellow anther cap. The flower spikes can get to be about a foot high, so need to be lead outside of the terrarium or cut off. The plant will form a large clump eventually. This plant is available from a number of orchid nurseries. Oak Hill Gardens in Dundee, Illinois would be a good source. Their plants are of good quality, and they have pretty much the best prices to be found. A mail order catalog is available. Haemaria discolor v. dawsoniana has darker leaves than the regular variety, with a single white vein down the center of the leaf. Anoectochilus formosana has dark green leaves with white veins. Jewel orchids apparently were much more popular earlier in this and the last century than they are now. The three which I have described, plus a Goodyera and an Anoectochilus described in the most recent AOS Bulletin, are the only ones which I've seen commercially available. These plants are mostly of the subtribe Goodyerinae, and include in addition to Anoectochilus and Haemaria genera such as Goodyera, Cheirostylis, Hetaeria, Vrydagzenia.... I would be very interested in obtaining some of these should a source materialize. I have another large terrarium, and also a mostly closed case, each of which has a gentle flow of forced humidified air blowing through it, with the fans being automatically turned off for 4 times per day when a humidifier runs. These conditions are good for a number of small orchids and bromeliads. A bromeliad which doesn't become too rampant (even though it does have to be controlled occaisonally) is Neoregelia lilliputana. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ftpbox!mothost!schbbs!maccvm.corp.mot.com!C11815 Wed Feb 9 18:13:47 EST 1994 Article: 26215 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ftpbox!mothost!schbbs!maccvm.corp.mot.com!C11815 From: C11815@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Josette Giacobbi) Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Organization: Motorola Date: 3 Feb 1994 08:51:11 CST Message-ID: <1994Feb3.150808.19823@schbbs.mot.com> Sender: news@schbbs.mot.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: maccvm.corp.mot.com Lines: 55 ------------------------- Original Article ------------------------- Path: schbbs!mothost!ftpbox!news.acns.nwu.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohi From: leppik@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (leppik peter) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Date: 2 Feb 1994 23:50:08 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 27 Message-ID: <2ipe7g$a4h@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> <2ip10i$6qb@charm.magnus NNTP-Posting-Host: uxa.cso.uiuc.edu mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) writes: >In article <2ip10i$6qb@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, jhoskins@magnus.acs.oh >|> Jean Kirwin wrote: >|> > >|> >I have experienced a repeated problem with starting plants from seeds. ... >|> >|> Sounds like they're "leggy." You've got to get the shop light or the >|> grow-light source down as close to soil level as possible after your >|> seedlings have germinated, and then move the light source higher as >|> necessary so that the bulbs are always just about touching the plants >What is the cheapest way to implement this scheme? I don't want to >spend $100-150 on one of those fancy systems of racks and adjustable >height lights. Is it useless to have a fixed-height light? I just went to Menard's, bought a two-bulb florescent fixture (about $10), a box of ceiling hooks (maybe $.49), some pulleys, and some rope. I hung the light from the hooks using the rope and pulleys, and I just tie the rope to whatever is handy in the room. When the light needs to be adjusted, I untie it, make the adjustment, and tie it back down.... -- Peter Leppik-- p-leppi@uiuc.edu ........ n i i ......What I did with my shop lights on my enclosed porch: I put up two plant brackets and laid a piece of electric conduit pipe across. Got some "S" hooks to go over the pipe. Got some light chain (the kind that swag lamps use) and put one end of each chain over an "S" hook. The shop lights have a little chain with a hook which I connected to the dangling end of the purchased chain. I can adjust the shop lights up and down this way. When I am done with this set up I leave up the brackets, pipe and "S" hooks and hang my house plants. My seedlings sit on trays that resemble old school lunch trays so I can just pour water in the bottom to water them. (my plant brackets are attached to the wall just about the windows, but I guess you can attach them to the ceiling just as well).....Josette From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Wed Feb 9 18:13:48 EST 1994 Article: 26216 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens,rec.pets.dogs Subject: Re: Toxicant question Message-ID: <1994Feb3.211556.22352@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 3 Feb 94 21:15:56 -0600 References: <1994Feb3.211507.20326@megatek.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 56 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu misc.consumers.house:46974 rec.gardens:26216 rec.pets.dogs:52870 In article <1994Feb3.211507.20326@megatek.com>, redman@megatek.com (Tim Redfield) writes: > I am considering having my yard sprayed with Dursban to > remedy a flea problem that is causing my dogs extreme > discomfort. Normally by wintertime the problem is gone, > but not this year. I have concerns about the implications > with respect to animals and people, specifically young > children. The pest company tells me that when the spray > dries it is then non-toxic, and in the next breath informs > me that there is enough residual to kill fleas that > hatch for about 30 days. My questions are: > > 1) Is it really non-toxic when dry or just bound to the soil, > grass, brick, etc., and not likely to rub off on you? > > 2) If it gets wet again in say, 24 hours, does the danger present > itself again? > > 3) Does the toxin really break down after a period of time. What > is the mechanism? To be really safe should all contact with the > sprayed areas be avoided until this "break-down" has occurred? Dursban is considered one of the best and cheapest "environmental flea sprays" ("environmental" meaning outdoors, not "green"). The MSDS sheets that the company should have (or call your extension office) and the product labels should answer your specific questions. The generic name for Dusban is chlorpyrifos. I don't have specific information on the Dursban formulation. However, for Lorsban 4E, also chlorpyrifos, the environmental cautions include statements include warnings about toxic to birds and wildlife and extremely toxic to fish and aquatic organisms... and warnings about drift and runoff. It is also highly toxic to bees foraging for pollen and nectar. I have 6 cats who are in the house most of the time, but do spend some time outside (they stay in my yard and the two adjacent yards, whose owners specifically have stated they enjoy watching my cats and having them in the yard.) Inevitably, someone brings home fleas. Fleas are not a problem for me, however, because I spray the interior of the house with Precor (methoprene), a non-toxic insect growth regulator that prevents fleas from reproducing. It costs me about $20/year to treat all the carpets in a two story Edwardian monster... I spray about every 2.5-3 months in flea season, stretching it a bit in the winter. The methoprene is diluted with plain water and applied with a garden sprayer. It can be purchased in some home- center type places, and through Gardens Alive (where it's called Vigren), or more easily as a "fogger" mixed with pyrethrins... K-Mart makes a good cheap methoprene-pyrethrin fogger. Methoprene is not suited to outdoor use, as it breaks down very readily with exposure to UV light. A new flea growth regulator, fenoxycarb, that is UV stable has been recently released. I have no experience with it. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!spool.mu.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Wed Feb 9 18:13:49 EST 1994 Article: 26217 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!spool.mu.edu!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: <1994Feb3.205022.22351@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 3 Feb 94 20:50:22 -0600 References: <1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk> <1994Feb1.121839.3524@es.dupont.com> <2ir3h4$55d@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 29 In article <2ir3h4$55d@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil>, u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) writes: > I planted a Labrador Retriever and a Miniature Schnauzer in my back yard, > and I have no problems with cats :) :) . Heck, I sometimes don't even > have a problem with *plants* in the back yard. > > You could try an electric fence - cost can be as little as $40 or so - > of course, you'd have the problem of them learning to jump the wire(s). > > BTW - do the cats help with keeping birds out of the garden? This could > be a benefit in some way (I know I'm really reaching here!). My cat crew loved to lie in the vegetable garden in the summer (when I had a vegetable garden, darn this city living!), and I rarely had rabbit or mole or bird predation problems... and rarely any evidence of cat snacks. BTW, I started keeping track of "prey" brought home by my well-fed cats while I was living in a semi-rural area (and we relied on the cats for rodent control). Other than the abundant Peromyscus and Sorex corpses (deer mice and shrews), and a few young rabbits and English sparrows (weed birds here), all of the "kills" they brought in had been dead for 24-72 hours, judging by the maggot infestations. It seems my mighty bird hunters were actually mighty retrievers of carrion. The only native bird they ever brought back was a bluebird... a quick autopsy revealed a broken neck and shattered skull consistent with flying into a window. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!aj796 Wed Feb 9 18:13:50 EST 1994 Article: 26218 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!aj796 From: aj796@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Tippi Chai) Subject: Re: bamboo in containers Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: aj796@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Tippi Chai) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 02:37:58 GMT Lines: 18 In a previous article, al810@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Maria Mokrzycki) says: >You can grow prosperity bamboo in a container and you don't have to worry >about the roots. I have some growing in a vase of water and they are >thriving. Sorry, "prosperity bamboo" is not a bamboo at all; it is a Draceana species. Two other plants that are misnamed "bamboo" in Chinese are _Nandina domestica_, called "heavenly bamboo", and Asparagus fern, "Literati bamboo". Also, for those who think bamboo is a species, it is actually a family of many genera and hundreds of species. -- Tippi Chai, Toronto, ON, Canada aj796@freenet.carleton.ca "It's really happenin' to ya!" Kate Bush "My past is warpaint" Happy Rhodes From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!newncar!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!jmcnult Wed Feb 9 18:13:51 EST 1994 Article: 26219 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!newncar!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!jmcnult From: jmcnult@orion.it.luc.edu (John A. Mcnulty) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Crape Myrtle Date: 4 Feb 1994 03:33:14 GMT Organization: Loyola University of Chicago Lines: 11 Message-ID: <2isflq$pgq@apollo.it.luc.edu> References: <1453300456@cdp> NNTP-Posting-Host: orion.it.luc.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Libby Goldstein (libby@igc.apc.org) wrote: : There is a whole series of dwarf crepe myrtles that would be excellent in : containers, but I think you'd have to bring them indoors or keep them in some : space that doesn't go below 10 F. Park Seed sells seeds and plants of these : dwarfs. I bought one of these in South Carolina last June and have been struggling to keep it alive. I remember the full sized trees in California which shed their bark and were lovely. Mine is down in the basement now under flourescent lights (I'm in Chicago). If I recall, it's a "weeping" crepe myrtle. Patty, not John From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson Wed Feb 9 18:13:53 EST 1994 Article: 26220 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: FAQ, still looking & Rose question Message-ID: <63.2d50ad4b@axolotl> Date: 02 Feb 94 15:02:52 CST Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City Sender: news@axolotl.omahug.org (UUscan 1.10) Followup-To: rec.gardens Lines: 202 vjpachiano@ccgate.dp.beckman.com (Vincent J. Pachiano Jr.) writes: > Several people have posted lately requesting the location of the FAQ. I > resisted posting, since I assummed someone would post the FAQ location. > Alas, I have not seen any such post. > > 1. Can anyone direct me to the FAQ for this group? [TEXT DELETED] ------------------------------------------------------------ Accessing FAQlists for rec.gardens, rec.woodworking, rec.crafts.metalworking, rec.food.sourdough, rec.food.veg, alt.meditation, sci.life-extension, alternative energy and archives of other information on these, related subjects and sustainable agriculture at sunSITE.unc.edu. ------------------------------------------------------------ anonymous ftp: ftp sunsite.unc.edu cd pub/academic cd agriculture/sustainable_agriculture cd recgardens [the FAQs are here] -or- cd medicine/alternative-healthcare -or- cd environment/alternative-energy/miscellaneous telnet: telnet sunsite.unc.edu Login: gopher Enter term type: (vt100 works fine) -Gopher Menu- The Worlds of sunSITE Sustainable Agriculture Information SunSITE Sustainable Agriculture Information recgardens [the FAQs are here] -and- The Worlds of SunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic agriculture sustainable_agriculture recgardens The Worlds of sunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic environment alternative energy miscellaneous The Worlds of sunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic medicine alternative healthcare Various Internet resources archived at sunSITE in the above directories: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Newsgroups and mailing lists: Reading alt.sustainable.agriculture gives you everything flowing through the sustag-public and sanet-mg lists in addition to any articles posted directly to the newsgroup. [Listed are host systems (i.e. mailing list server site address, mailing list name, and name of newsgroup that it's gated to, if at all] Mailing Lists: -------------- List name: sustag-public Host server: almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Post articles to: sustag-public@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Gated to: alt.sustainable.agriculture [sanet-mg is gated read-only to this newsgroup _not_ to the mailing list] List name: sanet-mg (Sustainable Agriculture Network mail group) Host server: almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Post articles to: sanet-mg@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu List name: forage-mg Host server: almanac@oes.orst.edu Post articles to: forage-mg@oes.orst.edu Other mailing lists: wetnet soils-l agmodels-l agric-l bee-l hydro-l devel-l indknow-l aqua-l marine-l gardens-l cohousing-l Usenet Newsgroups: ------------------ sci.agriculture alt.sustainable.agriculture alt.agriculture.misc alt.agriculture.fruit Others: rec.gardens misc.rural alt.folklore.herbs alt.co-evolution sci.bio sci.bio.ecology sci.geo.geology sci.geo.meteorology sci.aquaria bionet plants bionet mycology bionet photosynthesis bionet cellbiology bionet general bionet.agroforestry bionet.n2-fixation bionet.biology.tropical alt.architecture.alternative alt.housing.nontrad sci.energy misc.health.alternative sci.life-extension alt.health.ayurveda alt.meditation misc.health.diabetes rec.food.veg sci.med.nutrition sci.med.pharmacy alt.food.fat-free Other mailing lists: -------------------- >From almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu: renew-energy (Renewable Energy) nc-solar (North Carolina Solar Energy Resources) NAT_MED (Natural Medicine) ENV_RES (Environmental Resources) >From mailserv@iris.uncg.edu: MaxLife-L (Towards a Positive, Healthy Lifestyle) Articles in all of the mailing lists and newsgroups listed above, FAQs and other information are archived at sunSITE. They are accesable by ftp, telnet, Gopher, WWW, WAIS & FTPMail. - For more information contact: Lawrence London london@sunSITE.unc.edu sunSITE ftp directories: /pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture /pub/academic/environment/alternative-energy/miscellaneous /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare Paul Jones Paul_Jones@unc.edu Office for Information Technology University of North Carolina Chapel, Hill, N.C. 1-919-962-9107 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Bob Batson bob.batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org | Email address bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org | Backup address ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ "You're only young once but you can always be immature" -- Dave Barry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Wed Feb 9 18:13:55 EST 1994 Article: 26221 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Dryer vent = Winter Compo From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4492.2552.0N41F302@gcbb.granite.mn.org> References: <2im7r5$iud@hpscit.sc.hp.com> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 94 11:51:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 74 Subject: Dryer vent = Winter Compost? L>Has anyone ever used the exaust from their home dryer to heat up and >aid in composting during the winter? All that nice hot moiste air >being pumped outside seems like a waste. Why not recycle it as well? L>So has anyone ever tried this? Any ideas, recommendations or possible >downfalls? You bet. I have done just what you describe and it definitely helps keep the compost pile warm. The problems I found is that the pile tends to create a back pressure which restricts the dryer's action. This requires extra wood chips for free air space in the bin, but even then, still has a back pressure problem. You will also have a lint build up, but if the air is spread over a wide area, it is not significant. L>I was thinking of venting this air under a modified compost bin that >had a screened bottom. To encourage warm air to work throuth the >compost, I was thinking of poking holes through or getting fancy with >holed pipes. Some of my first designs for aerated floors for home composting included screen cloth bases. The 1/2" cloth from hardware stores is fairly light duty, but can work acceptably if it is reinforced with 1"x1" boards or even 2"x4"s if stood on their sides. Put them at 6" centers. You can also purchase 4" perforated drain pipe and crush it so that it flattens down to 2"-3" height. A manifold with T and L fittings helps spread the air over four pipes. Even better is old gravel screen which you can get for nearly free at sand and gravel yards which is tossed out after it wears down. Expanded metal sheets and punch plate perforated sheets also work, but steel tends to oxidize and rust, which is one reason to use the galvanized hardware cloth. You would be surprised that screen with 1" holes keeps in the compost quite well. A number of years back I introduced a retail product which I called the "Compost SuperCharger" aeration mat which is a 36" long by 18" wide by 1-1/2" high piece of flat perforated heavy duty HDPE pipe. It was sold in a number of mail order catalogues for $19.95 delivered, but did not sell well enough to keep it in the marketplace. It works great and I can still ship the product. If anyone is interested, they can write to me via e-mail. When used as a passive aeration floor, one end should open to let in air and the other closed to assist it in drawing air upward. When used as an extension on the pipe from the dryer, there should be an exhaust opening to avoid the back pressure problem. Heat will naturally rise and you are correct in suggesting "poking" the pile to provide air pathways. I recommend a three foot length piece of 1/2" rebar poked from the top of the pile to the base every six inches. A broom handle or even 1/4" steel rod bent as an "L" works well too. This advice of creating an aerated floor and poking the pile, aside from getting a good initial mix and inoculating with old compost, is the main secret to compost in less than 30 days without turning. Piles need lots of air, they do not need more than one or two turnings. A pile uses up its air in about 1/2 hour, so replenishing with passive air or forced air at the base from the dryer is correct composting theory. I don't recommend putting in tubes or perforated piping from the base upward as it acts as a chimney to divert air from the composting mass. You want the air to pass *through* the compost, not to bypass it. Air follows the path of least resistance and poking the pile is adequate to ensure even air distribution. Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 3rd - Religion without heart is enslavement. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!conwam2 Wed Feb 9 18:13:57 EST 1994 Article: 26222 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!conwam2 From: conwam2@alum01.its.rpi.edu (The Conways) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: gardening software Date: 4 Feb 1994 02:56:34 GMT Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY Lines: 5 Message-ID: <2isdh2$jk3@usenet.rpi.edu> References: <1994Feb1.235224.20490@news.yale.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: alum01.its.rpi.edu Regarding gardening software, please let me know what shareware or commercially available software is out there also. Thanks! Karen From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af017 Wed Feb 9 18:13:58 EST 1994 Article: 26223 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af017 From: af017@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (David R. Smith) Subject: Berkeley Bamboo Fences Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 05:39:40 GMT Lines: 13 I was in Berkeley, California last summer and I noted that quite a few of those quaint wood shingle homes (by .....what's her name, the famous Berkeley woman architect who designed parts of the Hearst Castle and that lovely place in Monterey?) were lined with a very thick, growing small bamboo, very dense, making an ideal fence in my opinion. Anyone from that region care to tell me the species? Is it clump or running? Do the neighbors care? Will it grow in colder climes? thanks David Smith From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!moroney Wed Feb 9 18:14:00 EST 1994 Article: 26224 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!moroney From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) Subject: Beekeeping Newsgroup Message-ID: Sender: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 04:39:45 GMT Lines: 30 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:70543 alt.config:23775 rec.gardens:26224 misc.rural:7699 I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. There are some 100,000 hobbiest beekeepers in the US alone, and many more worldwide. At this time there is no Usenet group devoted to this, and no others are really close. Rec.gardens - well honeybees aren't plants. Misc.rural, many city people keep hives. Rec.pets, honeybees aren't pets. The purpose of this group is discussing the various aspects of beekeeping, how to start, obtaining bees and equipment, setting up the equipment, preparing them for the seasons, honey harvesting, tips and techniques, questions and answers etc. It is more intended as an interchange of new and up-to-date information such as new breeds, the spread of various diseases or the Africanized bee, new rules or regulations and not a replacement for getting a beekeeping book (there are many good books out there) It is not intended for "How do I get rid of the 'bees' (read yellowjackets or wasps) that are living in my garage/attic/garden/etc." type questions. Possible exception: When the person _knows_ they're honeybees, a posting (with a proper local distribution) asking whether a beekeeper wants them, and if they're located in a place they can be removed from safely. There is a mailing list, BEE-L, but this group seems to be a well-kept secret, and it is a bee biology list rather rather than a beekeeping list (though there are beekeeping discussions) I believe it should be rec.beekeeping (perhaps rec..beekeeping) A sci. group would duplicate the BEE-L list, so it would be best to orient this toward the hobby beekeeper. -Mike From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!utnut!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato!comp.vuw.ac.nz!news.massey.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!CChristi Wed Feb 9 18:14:01 EST 1994 Article: 26225 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!utnut!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!waikato!comp.vuw.ac.nz!news.massey.ac.nz!cc-server4.massey.ac.nz!CChristi From: CChristi@massey.ac.nz (C.B. Christie) Subject: wanted a shade material to paint on plants Message-ID: Organization: Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand X-Reader: NETNEWS/PC Version 2f Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 05:12:19 GMT Lines: 26 Instead of erecting a big shadehouse, I am looking at the possibility of shading some understorey-type plants that like to grow in deep shade by applying a "paint" to allow growth in bright sunlight without photoinhibition and consequent loss of growth. The covering material would need to be slightly light permeable, flexible, probably not too dark in colour otherwise excseeive heating of the leaves may be a problem, nonphytotxic, easily applied (eg sprayed on new leaves as they appear) and probably some other things I havent thought about. I would be interested if commercial products exist that may do this or readers have any comments on the feasibility of the idea, alternative strategies or any other useful comments on the subject for that matter. Thanks very much Bruce Christie Department of Plant Science, Massey University Palmerston North, New Zealand email: C.B.Christie@massey.ac.nz From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!olivea!decwrl!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!mercury.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Wed Feb 9 18:14:02 EST 1994 Article: 26226 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!olivea!decwrl!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!mercury.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Subject: RE: Summer Savory Message-ID: <1FEB94.22432916@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Sender: news@arc.ab.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Organization: Alberta Research Council References: Date: Tue, 1 Feb 1994 22:43:29 GMT Lines: 11 In a previous article, kinnong@nbnet.nb.ca (Greg MacKinnon) wrote: >Looking for best ways to dry Summer Savory. You can tie the stems and hang it, but I just pile it on newspapers until it just begins to go crispy, then put it in large paper bags to let it finish drying (the bags catch any leaves that fall off). > Should you harvest before they flower or after ? Harvest when its in early bloom stage i.e. some flowers but not yet full bloom From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke Wed Feb 9 18:14:05 EST 1994 Article: 26227 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Message-ID: <1994Feb4.111749.4108@lsl.co.uk> Date: 4 Feb 94 11:17:48 +0100 References: <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 17 In article <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil>, jakirwi@starfleet.nswc.navy.mil (Jean Kirwin) writes: > > I have experienced a repeated problem with starting plants from seeds. Most > often, the sprouts reach a length of about an inch and a half and they begin > to slant over. Eventually, most of them end up completely on their side and > dead. What is happening and what can I do to prevent this? I'm sure I am > not overwatering/underwatering. Either not enough light, or too much heat, or too much humidity after germination. They grow thin and weak trying to reach the light, and then succumb to disease. I know a few people have replied about using lights. This might be OK, but what sort of seeds are these? Can they just be put in a cooler, lighter place, without it being so cool that they won't grow? Do they need to be sown so early in the year, or can they wait until the days are warmer and lighter? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!MOLAISRJ@esvx11.es.dupont.com Wed Feb 9 18:14:06 EST 1994 Article: 26228 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!MOLAISRJ@esvx11.es.dupont.com From: molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Message-ID: <1994Feb4.124934.21342@es.dupont.com> Sender: news@es.dupont.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: esvx11.es.dupont.com Reply-To: molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com Organization: DuPont (Opinions are those of the writer only) References: <2imd2b$h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb3.024202.22960@ccc.amdahl.com> <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com>, Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 12:49:34 GMT Lines: 41 In article , kaw6m@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Karen Ann Woodfork) writes: > > >In article <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> >molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com writes: > >> Why don't I just dig up the whole fricking yard and plant concrete. >> >> I DON'T THINK SO >> >> The anti-freeze is quick and doesn't cost me time or money. > >It will cost you a LOT of time and money when your neighbor's >2-year-old drinks the antifreze and dies or has serious >neurological damage and your neighbors sue you. People have lost >suits from drownings in unfenced ponds and swimming pools; do you >think that antifreeze _purposely_ left out in the GARDEN is going >to be any different in a court of law ?? > >If you don't have any concern toward the humane treatment >of animals, and care more about your pansies than the life- >threatening risks to your neighbors' children, you just _might_ >be concerned about the potential financial liability which >you are incurring. > >-Karen >-- >---------- > ------- > ----- You have a good point there. Why would I think that if my nieghbors have no concern with what their animals are doing to my yard and let them run unsupervised they would certainly not be concerned about letting their toddlers run the neighborhood unsupervised. There is only one problem with that. There aren't any toddlers that live close to me. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Wed Feb 9 18:14:08 EST 1994 Article: 26229 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: wanted a shade material to paint on plants Message-ID: <1994Feb4.081123.22362@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 4 Feb 94 08:11:23 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 20 In article , CChristi@massey.ac.nz (C.B. Christie) writes: > Instead of erecting a big shadehouse, I am looking at the possibility of > shading some understorey-type plants that like to grow in deep shade by > applying a "paint" to allow growth in bright sunlight without > photoinhibition and consequent loss of growth. > > The covering material would need to be slightly light permeable, > flexible, probably not too dark in colour otherwise excseeive heating of > the leaves may be a problem, nonphytotxic, easily applied (eg sprayed on > new leaves as they appear) and probably some other things I havent > thought about. > > I would be interested if commercial products exist that may do this or > readers have any comments on the feasibility of the idea, alternative > strategies or any other useful comments on the subject for that matter. Instead of a big shadehouse, how about "patches" of shade cloth of whatever density you need? I've not seen any spray-on leaf shade as you describe. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!jyoungmac.sps.mot.com!jerry_l_young Wed Feb 9 18:14:08 EST 1994 Article: 26230 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!jyoungmac.sps.mot.com!jerry_l_young From: Jerry Young Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mellingers? Date: 4 Feb 1994 14:05:09 GMT Organization: Motorola RISC Apps Lines: 27 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2itkmlINN4k0@talos4.sps.mot.com> References: <1994Feb3.142252.7829@brtph560.bnr.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: jyoungmac.sps.mot.com X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d24 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Fri, 4 Feb 94 08:05:15 GMT In article <1994Feb3.142252.7829@brtph560.bnr.ca> Emily Smith, emilys@brtph7cc.bnr.ca writes: >Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with plant material >ordered from Mellinger's? I have had good experiences with non- >plant material, but would like to place a plant order. They >sell many perennials, shrubs, trees; give Latin names, and have >a bit more reasonable prices than Bluestone (but not *cheap* like >Michigan Bulb and the like). They offer a one-year guarantee on >all plants. I had bad luck with them. I made an order in in mid-winter and it didn't arrive until April. The plant was shipped bare-root (I was trying to grow a dogwood in Austin, TX. Not a common plant, but you see them around). It quickly fried, I called them back and explained the problem -- esp that bare-root planting in Austin TX is not a good idea in April , and they sent me a replacement tree -- the following April, also bare-root, and it also of course died. They refused to replace it or refund my money -- and it was not a cheap tree. I can be sympathetic to the complications of trying to send plants out to all parts of the country, but it is the business they are in, and lots of people do much, much better. They have a nice catalog and good prices, especially compared to Wayside, but when the Mellinger's catalog comes, I don't tempt myself by opening it. Much better luck with ForestFarm, Yucca Du, and Heronswood. Jerry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!al810 Wed Feb 9 18:14:10 EST 1994 Article: 26231 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!al810 From: al810@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Maria Mokrzycki) Subject: Help with a Chinese Hibiscus Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 14:29:31 GMT Lines: 19 Hi, This isn't exactly a gardening question but as I have noticed that there are postings about houseplants, I thought that someone might be able to help me with a problem I am having with a Chinese Hibiscus. Usually the leaves on the plant are a very dark green but for the past month, they have been a much lighter shade of green. For the past week, the leaves have been getting yellow spots all over them and now they are starting to fall off. I have inspected the leaves and I found some whiteflies. I sprayed all the leaves and the undersides of them but I don't think that should cause all the leaves to fall off. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. -- b From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!newncar!uchinews!bluebird.uchicago.edu!lal Wed Feb 9 18:14:11 EST 1994 Article: 26232 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!newncar!uchinews!bluebird.uchicago.edu!lal From: lal@press.uchicago.edu (Lisa Lucas) Subject: re: Chelsea Flower Show tickets Message-ID: Lines: 8 Sender: news@uchinews.uchicago.edu (News System) Organization: The University of Chicago Press X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 15:31:18 GMT The RHS has set up a special number for public tickets. It's (071) 396-4700. As of this morning tickets were available for 26 and 27 May (the two public days) and were 22.00 pounds per ticket. If you wish to reserve them using your credit card they will hold them for you and you can pick them on the day you've reserved, using your credit card as identification. Lisa Lucas From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm Wed Feb 9 18:14:12 EST 1994 Article: 26233 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!leia.nrl.navy.mil!ssgm From: ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (SSGM) Subject: Re: Urea for composting leave Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: Naval Research Lab, Washington, DC References: <2ijs7g$a7v@news.bu.edu> <36.4450.2552.0N41F2C6@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 15:52:08 GMT Lines: 21 In article <36.4450.2552.0N41F2C6@gcbb.granite.mn.org>, jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) writes: |> Subject: Urea for composting leave (stuff composted) |> I have used urea (45-0-0) and ammonium nitrate (27-0-0) in some of ------ |> (more stuff composted) |> Jim McNelly~~~ |> Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis |> jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org |> --- |> * February 2nd - Money! Its a hit. Does this mean that this is the NKP value of urine? Should we all be peeing on our piles? :^) Especially those of us with sawdust in there. Inquiring minds want to know! -- Tom Dugan - Naval Research Laboratory, Washington, DC ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.sprintlink.net!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk Wed Feb 9 18:14:13 EST 1994 Article: 26234 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.sprintlink.net!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk From: mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Date: 4 Feb 1994 16:59:26 GMT Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA Lines: 41 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2itute$2d8@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> References: <1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk> <1994Feb1.121839.3524@es.dupont.com> <2ir3h4$55d@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> <1994Feb3.205022.22351@cobra.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: venus.larc.nasa.gov In article <1994Feb3.205022.22351@cobra.uni.edu>, klier@cobra.uni.edu writes: |> In article <2ir3h4$55d@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil>, u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) writes: |> > I planted a Labrador Retriever and a Miniature Schnauzer in my back yard, |> > and I have no problems with cats :) :) . Heck, I sometimes don't even |> > have a problem with *plants* in the back yard. |> > |> > You could try an electric fence - cost can be as little as $40 or so - |> > of course, you'd have the problem of them learning to jump the wire(s). |> > |> > BTW - do the cats help with keeping birds out of the garden? This could |> > be a benefit in some way (I know I'm really reaching here!). |> |> My cat crew loved to lie in the vegetable garden in the summer (when I |> had a vegetable garden, darn this city living!), and I rarely had |> rabbit or mole or bird predation problems... and rarely any evidence |> of cat snacks. In my parents large garden, we hadn't had problems with moles, but the deer were cleaning out the garden! So, my dad installed an electric fence, and put one wire low to keep out small veggie-eaters, and wouldn't you know it, then he had deer (no problem jumping that fence!) AND moles because the cat wouldn't go anywhere near that thing that "bit" her! |> |> BTW, I started keeping track of "prey" brought home by my well-fed |> cats while I was living in a semi-rural area (and we relied on the |> cats for rodent control). Other than the abundant Peromyscus and |> Sorex corpses (deer mice and shrews), and a few young rabbits and |> English sparrows (weed birds here), all of the "kills" they brought |> in had been dead for 24-72 hours, judging by the maggot infestations. |> It seems my mighty bird hunters were actually mighty retrievers of |> carrion. The only native bird they ever brought back was a bluebird... |> a quick autopsy revealed a broken neck and shattered skull consistent |> with flying into a window. Same here. She was a darn good huntress, but moles and mice were her usual prey. |> |> Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI |> From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gallux.gallaudet.edu!gallua.gallaudet.edu!rlwilliams Wed Feb 9 18:14:14 EST 1994 Article: 26235 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gallux.gallaudet.edu!gallua.gallaudet.edu!rlwilliams From: rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu (Robert Williams) Subject: What do you know about Spray n' Grow? Message-ID: <1994Feb4.130516.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> Lines: 8 Sender: news@gallux.gallaudet.edu (News manager) Organization: Gallaudet University Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 18:05:16 GMT Hi, I have an ad for something called "Spray 'n Grow" which is apparently a spray on fertilizer... or vitamin compound. It makes great claims for how much it will help all your plants, vegetables, house plants and the like. Has anyone ever used it and did they notice a difference? skip From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!hobbes!earth.armory.com!jon Wed Feb 9 18:14:15 EST 1994 Article: 26236 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!hobbes!earth.armory.com!jon From: jon@armory.com (Jon Shemitz) Subject: Re: Urea for composting leave Organization: Midnight Beach Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 19:29:32 GMT Message-ID: References: <2ijs7g$a7v@news.bu.edu> <36.4450.2552.0N41F2C6@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Sender: news@armory.com (Usenet News) Nntp-Posting-Host: deeptht.armory.com Lines: 7 > Should we all be peeing on our piles? :^) Well, I *wasn't* going to mention this, 'cause I think it's a bit gross, but I do pee on my compost heap. I started doing it during the drought, to save flushes, but I keep doing it 'cause it keeps the compost heap moist during the summer AND adds nitrogen. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ad357 Wed Feb 9 18:14:16 EST 1994 Article: 26237 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ad357 From: ad357@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Nikolai Nefedow) Subject: Re: Help with a Chinese Hibiscus Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: ad357@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Nikolai Nefedow) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 19:28:39 GMT Lines: 24 In a previous article, al810@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Maria Mokrzycki) says: >This isn't exactly a gardening question but as I have noticed that >there are postings about houseplants, I thought that someone might be >able to help me with a problem I am having with a Chinese Hibiscus. > >Usually the leaves on the plant are a very dark green but for the past >month, they have been a much lighter shade of green. For the past week, >the leaves have been getting yellow spots all over them and now they >are starting to fall off. I have inspected the leaves and I found some >whiteflies. I sprayed all the leaves and the undersides of them but I >don't think that should cause all the leaves to fall off. > Have you moved the plant recently ??? It sounds like it is getting less light than it did before. I've managed to keep mine going for over 20 years and I've noticed a lighter coloured leaf in lower light conditions. Right now all my hibiscus are enjoying southern and western exposures and a skylight above. Don't forget to start feeding soon. -- Nikolai Nefedow At Play: ad357@freenet.carleton.ca Ottawa, Ontario At Work: nefedow@cognos.com CANADA 4072867@mcimail.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins Wed Feb 9 18:14:17 EST 1994 Article: 26238 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins From: jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Urea for composting leave Date: 4 Feb 1994 21:06:23 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 14 Message-ID: <2iudcf$h52@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <2ijs7g$a7v@news.bu.edu> <36.4450.2552.0N41F2C6@gcbb.granite.mn.org NNTP-Posting-Host: beauty.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu >> Should we all be peeing on our piles? :^) > >Well, I *wasn't* going to mention this, 'cause I think it's a bit gross, >but I do pee on my compost heap. I started doing it during the drought, >to save flushes, but I keep doing it 'cause it keeps the compost heap >moist during the summer AND adds nitrogen. When I received my Peace Corps gardening training we were taught about the utility of peeing on our compost piles and we routinely did so. I went to a place where there weren't compost piles so I couldn't pass on this gem of western scientific knowledge. : From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!koriel!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!stimpy!pstryjew Wed Feb 9 18:14:18 EST 1994 Article: 26239 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!koriel!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!stimpy!pstryjew From: pstryjew@colsun.Central.Sun.COM (Pete Stryjewski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Date: 4 Feb 1994 19:53:50 GMT Organization: "Sun Microsystems Computer Corporation, Dallas, TX." Lines: 21 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2iu94eINN15f@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> References: <2ipe7g$a4h@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> Reply-To: pstryjew@colsun.Central.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: stimpy.central.sun.com In article a4h@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu, leppik@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (leppik peter) writes: >I just went to Menard's, bought a two-bulb florescent fixture (about $10), >a box of ceiling hooks (maybe $.49), some pulleys, and some rope. I hung the >light from the hooks using the rope and pulleys, and I just tie the rope to >whatever is handy in the room. When the light needs to be adjusted, I untie >it, make the adjustment, and tie it back down.... > >-- > Peter Leppik-- p-leppi@uiuc.edu I find it a little easer to use some "chain" in place of the rope an pulleys. At the hardware store, get a couple lengths of "swing set" chain. I don't know the real name, but it is found on swing sets; you can use fairly light duty chain. Then when you need to raise the light (or just one side), you just hook the chain on the ceiling hook at the right position. Pete Stryjewski pstryjew@colsun.Central.Sun.COM From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!CC.UMontreal.CA!vermetts Wed Feb 9 18:14:19 EST 1994 Article: 26240 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!CC.UMontreal.CA!vermetts From: vermetts@ERE.UMontreal.CA (Vermette Stephane) Subject: bugs on cactus Message-ID: Sender: news@cc.umontreal.ca (Administration de Cnews) Organization: Universite de Montreal Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 20:56:42 GMT Lines: 12 I recently discovered a flock of unpleasant looking bugs on one of my cacti. They are quite small wingless, and apparently legless, and make "nests" that look like tiny wisps of cotton wool. Adults are 1 - 3 mm long on average, pale green in colour and softbodied. I have found them on the soil as well as on the plant itself. What are these? How can I get rid of them? They seem to want to spread to my other plants (I have quarantined the above- mentioned patient). thanks in advance..... From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!koriel!rutgers!njitgw.njit.edu!hertz.njit.edu!smt2626 Wed Feb 9 18:14:20 EST 1994 Article: 26241 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!koriel!rutgers!njitgw.njit.edu!hertz.njit.edu!smt2626 From: smt2626@hertz.njit.edu (sylvia m tou mfen stnt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: transplanting Message-ID: <1994Feb4.190933.10103@njitgw.njit.edu> Date: 4 Feb 94 19:09:33 GMT Sender: news@njit.edu Distribution: usa Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, New Jersey Lines: 23 Nntp-Posting-Host: hertz.njit.edu I was wondering when and how to transplant some 'rogue' plants I have. I have a rose growing between 2 very tall pine tree and it gets no sun (other then when it sticks its branches out), a hydrangea branch growing out of an existing grown shrub, and (I think) a peony being strangled by some evergbreen hedges. Where and when is the best time to move these out of their less than favorable situations and into better locations (or at least give then to someone to plant). One problem though, I am short on nice bright summy places - I mostly got is shade and partly shade. BTW, my neighbors trees are starting to grow over my vegetable garden and thereby shading it. Does anyone know if there would be any problem if I trimmed the branches abit. The neighbors rent and the landlords are invisible. -- sylvia (smt2626@hertz.njit.edu or sylvia@teak.njit.edu) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Wed Feb 9 18:14:21 EST 1994 Article: 26242 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: Chelsea Flower Show - Tickets References: <2ih0is$dnj@nemesis.muppet.bt.co.uk> <759963092snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <5761@metasoft.UUCP> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 10 Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 17:41:21 +0000 Message-ID: <760383681snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article <5761@metasoft.UUCP> rln@metasoft.UUCP "Roberta Norin" writes: > Can anyone tell me the dates of the show. I`m hoping to be in England in May > and wish to coordinate with those dates. > AFAIK the public days this year are on 26th and 27th May. If anyone is thinking of visiting the show though can I really urge you to try and get tickets well in advance? Chelsea Flower Show is usually sold out weeks ahead. -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Wed Feb 9 18:14:23 EST 1994 Article: 26243 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) References: <> <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 16 Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 17:47:14 +0000 Message-ID: <760384034snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> jojo@leland.Stanford.EDU "Joanne Spetz" writes: > Speaking of which, how will tomatoes do in a container? I've > dedicated every inch of vegetable space I have to other things > but figure I'll give the "free" seeds a try. When should I > start the seeds? My last tomato attempt was about or fifteen > years ago, when I was but a kid. > The answer, in a word, is 'brilliantly'. Tomatoes grow perfectly happily in 10" or larger pots and in growing bags. The only problems come from having to water so frequently to avoid splitting and other problems. Make sure they are well fed, too. I can't say about sowing dates though as it's a bit different over here in in rainy England! . -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!charnel!charnel!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:14:26 EST 1994 Article: 26244 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!olivea!charnel!charnel!usenet From: lmetcalf@oavax.csuchico.edu (LORETTA METCALF) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Organic Peaches Date: 4 Feb 1994 21:15:26 GMT Organization: California State University, Chico Lines: 23 Message-ID: <2iudteINN44p@charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu> References: Reply-To: lmetcalf@oavax.csuchico.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: oavax.csuchico.edu In article , clb5q@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Cheryl L. Boyd) writes: >I'd like to get some information on growing organic peach trees >here in the Piedmont of Virginia. The peach tree borer has >been doing me in for years now with nothing but chemical >suggestions for his demise. Cheryl, I grow organic and also have a borer problem, I grow frost peach that is resistant to peach leaf curl, but I have an entirely different climate. I too would be interested in beating the deadly borer. Most advice tells you to stick something sharp in the hole and squash the worm. they also advise you to clean up all old litter, leaves etc. There's always tobacco dust, but make sure you dust after the bees go home for the nite and also have the area you're dusting damp/wet for best adherence. Good luck, Loretta ...................................................... Loretta J. Metcalf lmetcalf@oavax.csuchico.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!newncar!destroyer!jobone!ed8200!pt9227.ped.pto.ford.com!millerb Wed Feb 9 18:14:27 EST 1994 Article: 26245 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!newncar!destroyer!jobone!ed8200!pt9227.ped.pto.ford.com!millerb From: millerb@pt9227.ped.pto.ford.com (Bryan Miller) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: <1994Feb4.183852.5965@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Sender: news@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: pt9227.ped.pto.ford.com Organization: Ford Motor Co., Powertrain Electronics X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7] References: <1994Feb2.044150.17109@sequent.com> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 18:38:52 GMT Lines: 28 > molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com writes: > > >The solution I came up with last year was to put bowls of antifreeze in > >the flowerbeds. They only vivited my flowerbeds once more. Come to think > >of it, I haven't even seen them in the neighborhood, and my flowerbeds > >are really happy now. > -- This will also have the unfortunate result of killing all the birds that drink it also. I have found that a repeated drenching with a garden hose has a discouraging effect (as does letting out the 120 pound Newfoundland moggy killer ). ----------------------------------------------------------------- \\___// | | Bryan Miller |_____| Embedded Software Engineer || o || Control Systems Software || \\|| Powertrain Electronics Department \\ Ford Motor Company o TEL : 313.84.54248 // FAX : 313.32.36743 O EMAIL : millerb@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com <<< I don't speak for Ford, nor they for me... >>> From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!jvnc.net!krell.sh.rohmhaas.com!rsndww Wed Feb 9 18:14:28 EST 1994 Article: 26246 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!jvnc.net!krell.sh.rohmhaas.com!rsndww From: Dave Whitman Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Message-ID: <1994Feb4.214552.20686@tigger.jvnc.net> X-Xxmessage-Id: X-Xxdate: Fri, 4 Feb 94 21:45:47 GMT Sender: news@tigger.jvnc.net (Zee News Genie) Nntp-Posting-Host: krell.sh.rohmhaas.com Organization: Rohm & Haas Co. X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.2 References: <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 21:45:52 GMT Lines: 26 In article <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Keith William Bowes, bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu writes: >Have any of you people, not on Rodale's payroll, tried OG50 with >any success? > >I'm open to all opinions, good or bad, regarding OG50 or any other >type of tomato you think would be a good choice as this year's >"alternate" in my garden. I grew OG50 last year from the free packet that OG sent out. Like Peter Smith mentions, I got a relatively low germination rate, maybe 70% vs. my normal 90%+ for tomatoes. I also noted that the OG50 seedlings seemed to grow more slowly than my other cultivars (Roma, Big Girl, Early Girl) and needed more fussing over. However, once they went out in the garden they grew just as fast as the others and gave a very high yield of fruit. None of the varietys we planted had trouble with diseases; don't know if that means we're lucky or if they all have good disease resistance. FWIW, we loved the fruit from the OG50's, prefering the flavor and texture over the Early Girl or Big Girl varietys. Unlike the spherical pictures in the catalog, our OG50s were sort of flattened, with shoulders. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Whitman * "Reality is what refuses to go away internet: rsndww@rohmhaas.com * when I stop believing in it." US Mail: get real. * -P.K. Dick From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!umdac!fizban.solace.mh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci Wed Feb 9 18:14:29 EST 1994 Article: 26247 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!umdac!fizban.solace.mh.se!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Ceci Henningsson) Subject: Re: Gardening magazines (was: Re: OG email update) Message-ID: Sender: news@lysator.liu.se (The news user) References: <2h2som$3rj@gap.cco.caltech.edu> <1994Jan31.224851.1@eagle.wesleyan.edu> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 15:32:45 GMT Lines: 29 >> Does anyone have any favorite gardening magazines that contain useful >> information? I subscribe to the UK magazine The Gardener, and I really like it. Some regular items are Pippa Greenwood's Problem page, information about public gardens particularly worthile to visit in the current season, and Nigel Colborn's humoristic column. Every issue contains at least two garden presentations, often with map, and two pages about current tasks in the garden, geared towards a UK climate, of course.. In addition to that there are usually a few series of informative articles. In the current issue the series about propagation and about trees. They don't have a subscription offer in this month's issue, but you can probably ask for their rates at their editorial address: Westover House, West Quay Road, Poole, Dorset BH15 1JG, UK. I also occassionally buy the (one and only) Swedish gardening magazine Allt om Traedgaard. It's not as good and helpful as The Gardener, despite that their cultural tips are geared towards my climate. The address is Allt om Traedgaard, Box 70 437, 107 25 Stockholm, Sweden. This should be a faq, shouldn't it? Reading regards, --Ceci -- ====ceci@lysator.liu.se==================================== "Waking a person unnecessarily should not be considered a capital crime. For the first offense, that is." -- L. Long =========================================================== From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!neocad!kruse Wed Feb 9 18:14:30 EST 1994 Article: 26248 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!neocad!kruse From: kruse@neocad.com (Jim Kruse) Subject: Reintroducing a Spruce Message-ID: <1994Feb4.222123.7748@neocad.com> Organization: NeoCAD, Inc. X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 22:21:23 GMT Lines: 20 I live in Boulder, CO (zone ???) and I planted a Colorado Blue Spruce seedling in a clay pot last summer. I brought the pot into the house sometime during the fall, and during December it started a new growth cycle. I am a little puzzled by this since I thought the shortening day, and not the falling temperatures, was what made the tree go dormant during the winter. I would have thought that even inside, the tree would have stayed dormant. Anyway, here's the problem. When do I reintroduce the tree to the outside? Too early and it might get damaged by the cold. Too late and I risk not having the tree start the normal new growth cycle this summer. Any suggestions? -- Jim Kruse NeoCAD, Inc. Internet: kruse@neocad.com 2585 Central Ave. Phone: (303)442-9121 FAX: (303)442-9124 Boulder, CO 80301 PGP Public Key available upon request From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uhog.mit.edu!news.media.mit.edu!griscom Wed Feb 9 18:14:31 EST 1994 Article: 26249 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uhog.mit.edu!news.media.mit.edu!griscom From: griscom@media.mit.edu (Dan Griscom) Subject: HydroGel? Message-ID: <1994Feb4.221936.22849@news.media.mit.edu> Sender: news@news.media.mit.edu (USENET News System) Organization: MIT Media Laboratory References: <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb4.214552.20686@tigger.jvnc.net> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 22:19:36 GMT Lines: 15 Last summer I had a strawberry jar (about 2' tall, with about 2 gallons of dirt and nine holes in the side.) It didn't do well, mainly because it required watering every day just to keep it from going bone dry. A couple of months ago I read a note here that mentioned something called "HydroGel" (I think.) It was granular: you mixed it in your soil and watered, and the granules swelled up and absorbed the water, releasing it as necessary. Voila! less watering required. Sounds like just the thing for my (now petrified) strawberry jar. Am I remembering right? Where could I get this stuff? (I expect my local greenhouse would charge rapacious rates for it...) Thanks, Dan Griscom From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!sgiblab!pacbell.com!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Wed Feb 9 18:14:32 EST 1994 Article: 26250 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!sgiblab!pacbell.com!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Re: Sweetbriar Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <3FEB94.16463497@shrsys.hslc.org> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 23:19:31 GMT Lines: 17 >Can anyone provide me with a source in the US for a rose called >Sweetbriar? It is also known as Eglantine. Pickering Nurseries Inc., 670 Kingston Rd., Pickering, Ont. 905 Phone (416) 839-2111. Great catalog, $3. (Remember, a normal letter to a foreign country needs 50 cents postage.) I believe they also have an englantine with double flowers, but I don't see it in the '94 catalog. But the main reason you buy this rose is for the green-apple scent of the leaves. They also offer "Rosa primula" with fragrant leaves, but I got one and it has abolutely NO smell. Bummer. Anyone have a lead on Rosa primula that DOES have scented leaves? Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!venice!wp-sp.nba.trw.com!gatekeeper.esl.com!macm575.esl.com!user Wed Feb 9 18:14:33 EST 1994 Article: 26251 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!venice!wp-sp.nba.trw.com!gatekeeper.esl.com!macm575.esl.com!user From: Louise_Mateos@smtp.esl.com (Louise Mateos) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Fri, 04 Feb 1994 14:05:00 -0800 Organization: ESL--A TRW Company Lines: 35 Message-ID: References: <> <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: macm575.esl.com In article <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.Stanford.EDU>, jojo@leland.Stanford.EDU (Joanne Spetz) wrote: (stuff deleted) > Speaking of which, how will tomatoes do in a container? I've > dedicated every inch of vegetable space I have to other things > but figure I'll give the "free" seeds a try. When should I > start the seeds? My last tomato attempt was about or fifteen > years ago, when I was but a kid. > > Thanks, > Joanne > -- > Joanne Spetz Department of Economics > jojo@leland.stanford.edu Stanford University I grew cherry tomatoes in pots last year in Cupertino and Santa Clara (we moved in August so I was glad to have some tomatoes in pots!) They produced great--right into December. They have these big pots now at local stores (about 18"?) that have water wells at the bottom. I used two of these and found that the tomato roots grew right thru the soil into the well. I had them sprawling all over the place--wasn't too dedicated with pruning. Kids loved them. BTW, one variety was Sweet 100 and I don't remember off hand what the other was--they were a little bigger than the Sweet 100 but also tasted fine. Last year I got seedlings from a local store--this year I'll be starting seeds as soon as they come in the mail. You could start seeds now, especially if they are in pots--just be careful if it starts to freeze again. I have started some seeds outside in flats and pots. If it looks like we get another spell of hard freezing, I'll be bringing stuff into the garage for the night. If I forget, oh well, there's still lots of growing season left here. -- Louise Mateos From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ftpbox!mothost!schbbs!maccvm.corp.mot.com!C11815 Wed Feb 9 18:14:34 EST 1994 Article: 26252 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ftpbox!mothost!schbbs!maccvm.corp.mot.com!C11815 From: C11815@maccvm.corp.mot.com (Josette Giacobbi) Subject: Re: OG50 tomato Organization: Motorola Date: 4 Feb 1994 08:47:47 CST Message-ID: <1994Feb4.150254.3138@schbbs.mot.com> Sender: news@schbbs.mot.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: maccvm.corp.mot.com Lines: 18 I am in South Carolina and I grew the OG50 tomato last year with my free seeds from Parks thru OG magazine offer. Mine germinated great, and the plants grew well, but it was TOO HOT here for them 99-110 degrees in the middle of summer. (I even make tents over them with old sheets). Anyway, I didn't care for them. They were not large at all, though they did last as I am still eating the ones I picked off just before the last frost. I brought my parents some plants (took them to New Jersey for Mother's Day) . My father said his tomatoes were huge, but of course, he drowns everything in Miracle Grow (I don't use the stuff, I'm organic). He did say that his tomatoes were a little watery though. ......I may just go back to Celebrity which does very good in the hot summer here. I do have seeds for a Polish tomato that were first given to me about 10 years ago which I have been growing ever since, saving the seeds year after year. I think these Polish tomatoes have adapted to my climate because the very first year the plant was so scrawny it looked like it would fall over if it made a tomato. Now, the tomatoes are as long as my hand..........sorry for the rambling. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Wed Feb 9 18:14:35 EST 1994 Article: 26253 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: HydroGel? References: <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb4.214552.20686@tigger.jvnc.net> <1994Feb4.221936.22849@news.media.mit.edu> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 25 Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 00:33:40 +0000 Message-ID: <760408420snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article <1994Feb4.221936.22849@news.media.mit.edu> griscom@media.mit.edu "Dan Griscom" writes: > Last summer I had a strawberry jar (about 2' tall, with about 2 > gallons of dirt and nine holes in the side.) It didn't do well, mainly > because it required watering every day just to keep it from going bone > dry. A couple of months ago I read a note here that mentioned > something called "HydroGel" (I think.) It was granular: you mixed it > in your soil and watered, and the granules swelled up and absorbed the > water, releasing it as necessary. Voila! less watering required. > Sounds like just the thing for my (now petrified) strawberry jar. > > Am I remembering right? Where could I get this stuff? (I expect my > local greenhouse would charge rapacious rates for it...) > Well, unless someone is *really* ripping you off, it costs a lot less than replacing strawberry plants . I've used this material a lot, both for container-grown fruit and in hanging baskets and can report that it works, and works well. Most garden centres in the U.K. stock it so I'm sure it must be widely available in the States. If America is like the U.K. though, shop around as there are a lot of different brands of this polymer gel available, AFAIK they are all essentially the same (they seem to work just as well in my experience) but the prices vary quite a lot. -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Wed Feb 9 18:14:36 EST 1994 Article: 26254 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: bugs on cactus References: Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 28 Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 00:28:06 +0000 Message-ID: <760408086snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article vermetts@ERE.UMontreal.CA "Vermette Stephane" writes: > I recently discovered a flock of unpleasant looking bugs > on one of my cacti. They are quite small wingless, and apparently > legless, and make "nests" that look like tiny wisps of cotton > wool. Adults are 1 - 3 mm long on average, pale green in colour > and softbodied. I have found them on the soil as well as on the > plant itself. > What are these? How can I get rid of them? They seem to > want to spread to my other plants (I have quarantined the above- > mentioned patient). > thanks in advance..... > Almost certainly this will be the mealybug. The best treatment is to remove the little so-and-sos with a cotton bud which has been dipped in methylated spirit. This imobilises them and you can then pick them off with a toothpick. Even then they can return, so it may be worth spraying with a suitable contact insecticide (over here malathion is used but I'm not sure what's allowed in Canada). If you are disinclined to use chemical pesticides then soft-soap (Safers) should do the trick. If *that* doesn't deal with them you may be forced to use a systemic insecticide, but that's always worth avoiding if you can. Hope that helps, -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!widener!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!opus!jewett Wed Feb 9 18:14:38 EST 1994 Article: 26255 of rec.gardens From: jewett@opus.hpl.hp.com (Bob Jewett) Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 00:37:12 GMT Subject: Re: bugs on cactus Message-ID: <39240007@opus.hpl.hp.com> Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!widener!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!opus!jewett Newsgroups: rec.gardens References: Lines: 14 > I recently discovered a flock of unpleasant looking bugs > on one of my cacti. Sound like mealy bugs to me. One method is rubbing alcohol on cotton swaps but a cactus nursery person I talked to recently recommended the use of any of several common insecticides. Presumably the labels on the bottles will specify effectiveness. Application should be after a thorough watering, to get to the bugs in the roots better. Bob [You can subscribe to a cactus and succulent mailing list by sending the message body "subscribe cacti_etc" to listserv@opus.hpl.hp.com. The subject line is not important.] From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!widener!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!nic.hookup.net!batcomputer!cornell!rochester!galileo.cc.rochester.edu!news.cc.rochester.edu!ehwd Wed Feb 9 18:14:39 EST 1994 Article: 26256 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!widener!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!spool.mu.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!nic.hookup.net!batcomputer!cornell!rochester!galileo.cc.rochester.edu!news.cc.rochester.edu!ehwd From: ehwd@sherman.pas.rochester.edu (Eric Howard) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! In-Reply-To: bws20@mfg.amdahl.com's message of Thu, 3 Feb 1994 02:55:17 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 41 Sender: news@galileo.cc.rochester.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: sherman.pas.rochester.edu Organization: University of Rochester Computing Center References: <1994Feb3.025517.26259@ccc.amdahl.com> Date: 04 Feb 1994 23:13:29 GMT Lines: 41 In article <1994Feb3.025517.26259@ccc.amdahl.com> bws20@mfg.amdahl.com (Brian Wesley Simmons) writes: --- bws20@mfg.amdahl.com Dogs, guns, motorcycles, DoD# 1bfd EGFC#12 and the love of A Good Woman; '82 Yamaha Seca XJ650R, nameless what more is there? '90 Bouviers des Flandres, Raleigh & Que ------------------------------------------------------------------- Why am I not surprised that someone who has this sig would have such a serious problem with cats. First off, yes I have a cat, and no she does not go outside. My neighbors have cats and some of them do go outside, and occationally end up in our yard. I generally welcome them. They have as much right to be wandering around the planet as I do. If you could get past your need to control everything around you, maybe you could see this too. The attitude that humans are the be-all end-all of existance and as such ought to control all of nature around them is one of the most basic problems we have. The neighborhood squirels cause much more damage than the neighbor- hood cats ever thought of doing. Do you want them caged and/or leashed as well? No, you probably just want to shoot them all. Well, no thank you. I like having them around, and I'll continue to let them be (chaseing them around every once in a while if they cause too much damage). We are all just residents of this planet, it would be nice if we could manage to just live and let live whenever possible. You would think that those who garden would recognize that more than most, but I guess I'm just being idealistic. eric PS We have 3 bird feeders, none of them very far off the ground, and none of the cats have mangaged to catch a bird yet. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv Wed Feb 9 18:14:40 EST 1994 Article: 26257 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv From: gwv@hemlock.cray.com (George Walter VandenBerghe) Subject: Re: slugs and sheet mulching Message-ID: <1994Feb4.114422.23672@hemlock.cray.com> Originator: gwv@hemlock Keywords: slugs, mulch Lines: 39 Sender: gwv@hemlock (George Walter VandenBerghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: hemlock Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <2iq56h$n0c@scratchy.reed.edu> Date: 4 Feb 94 11:44:22 CST In article <2iq56h$n0c@scratchy.reed.edu>, kbezilla@reed.edu (Ken Bezilla) writes: > Has anyone had experience with sheet mulching here in the rainy part > of the Northwest? I've heard mixed results about it. Some people (e.g., > Steve Solomon) say that it won't work here in Oregon because our winters are > too mild and slugs will overwinter in the mulch, devouring the tender veggies > in the spring. Other folks I know say they've tried it and it's worked fine, > they say that between snakes in the garden and slug collecting the slugs > aren't too much of a problem. > However, we already have a lot of slugs on the farm where I > work (twenty miles south of Portland), and we don't have any snakes because > we have six cats, and they kill any snakes they can get their paws on. > (Unfortunately, the cats won't eat slugs.) We're thinking of trying some > sheet mulching out this year, using ducks for some slug control (the cats > don't mess with the ducks), but we'd like to know what we're getting into > first. Any advice? > > ---- > Ken Bezilla > kbezilla@reed.edu > My experience in the DC area is that when I use black plastic mulch, I get a LOT of snakes in the garden hiding under the mulch esp in the spring when it is warmer than surrounding areas without being baking hot like under my clear plastic mulch nearby. (First task in spring after the county plows my rental plot is to use clear plastic to get soil temps to 65 ASAP and because I do this I get 1-2 weeks on everyone else) But to get back to the snakes, I suspect you won't have trouble with the cats finding them under the plastic and they will keep the slugs down. And in Oregon you only have a few species of rattlesnakes to worry about; here in DC we have water moccasins, copperheads and several species of rattlesnakes also. But everytjing I have seen in my garden has been harmless so far.. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:14:42 EST 1994 Article: 26258 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: Adriann Musson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Potato Bugs and Yellow Worms Date: Fri, 4 Feb 94 20:53:15 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 2 Message-ID: <19940204.20531520.amusson@delphi.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos2a.delphi.com My potato plants were eaten alive by potato bugs. My bean plants fell to yellow worms. Looking for ORGANIC solution. Any advice appreciated. Thanks. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink.bc.ca!a8331 Wed Feb 9 18:14:43 EST 1994 Article: 26259 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink.bc.ca!a8331 From: Moira_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Moira Carlson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Slugs and Mulch Date: 5 Feb 94 01:49:59 GMT Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Lines: 34 Distribution: world Message-ID: <37992@mindlink.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: mindlink.bc.ca In response to Ken Bezilla:kbezilla@reed.edu >Has anyone had experience with sheet mulching here in the rainy part >of the Northwest? I've heard mixed results about it. Some people (e.g., >Steve Solomon) say that it won't work here in Oregon because our winters are >too mild and slugs will overwinter in the mulch, devouring the tender veggies >in the spring. Other folks I know say they've tried it and it's worked fine, >they say that between snakes in the garden and slug collecting the slugs >aren't too much of a problem. >However, we already have a lot of slugs on the farm where I >work (twenty miles south of Portland), and we don't have any snakes because >we have six cats, and they kill any snakes they can get their paws on. >(Unfortunately, the cats won't eat slugs.) We're thinking of trying some >sheet mulching out this year, using ducks for some slug control (the cats >don't mess with the ducks), but we'd like to know what we're getting into >first. Any advice? You didn't say what you were planning to mulch with, and I think that can make some difference. If you mulch with lots of soft things (like leaves) the slugs will hide under it, but they have very tender tummies and they don't like crawling over little sharp twiggy bits. Every spring I take all the early spring prunings and put them through the shredder to make a really twiggy mulch for the strawberries...seems to pretty much keep the slugs off them. Also, how about using a mulch for the winter and then clearing it away -or digging or rototillering it in- in the spring. Then let the ducks loose. I don't think the slugs would get through that combination too easily. I have heard that there is no such thing as a surfeit of slugs, merely a dirth of ducks. Hope this helps. -Moira From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!opus!jewett Wed Feb 9 18:14:44 EST 1994 Article: 26260 of rec.gardens From: jewett@opus.hpl.hp.com (Bob Jewett) Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 02:38:24 GMT Subject: Re: bugs on cactus Message-ID: <39240008@opus.hpl.hp.com> Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!opus!jewett Newsgroups: rec.gardens References: Lines: 8 > If you are disinclined to use chemical pesticides then soft-soap > (Safers) should do the trick. A note from a reader in the latest Amateur's Digest (printed in Canada, about cacti and succulents) says they tried an extra-dilute solution of insecticidal soap, and it ruined their cactus plant. Bob From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan Wed Feb 9 18:14:45 EST 1994 Article: 26261 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan From: nathan@seldon.foundation.tricon.com (Number 6) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Nonsucculent drought tolerant plants how do they do it? Message-ID: <1994Feb4.074516.13717@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> Date: 4 Feb 94 07:45:15 GMT Organization: Triicon Systems, Inc., Lompoc, CA Lines: 47 This may be somewhat technical, but I am interested in any information concerning nonsucculent drought tolerant plants and their methods of survival. I have quite a few native plants that have come up recently due to the nice rains we've gotten (still below normal by quite a bit, but enough to trigger growth for the first time in our new home) here in Central California. I've seen *many* unidentified plants (not weeds, thankfully!) come up in my garden and I don't want to destroy them (I carefully move them to my "native plant area", which is really my "whatever I find in the garden I don't know what it is but want to see what it becomes" area! :) Several succulents have come up small iceplant like critters. Several taprooted "weeds" have come up, but they look sufficiently unlike weeds that I kept them (and do have pretty flowers). And, several very pretty orange/yellow blooming plants with blade type leaves have come up (or have come back to life). I am most interested in the orange/yellow plants they have been in the garden for many years (from what neighbors tell me, I've only owned the place 6 months). They have apparently survived the 6 year drought. (The previous owners *never* watered). But they are not succulent. They form clumps and seem to divide best that way, though they do natively reseed themselves and are perennials. So basically, how can a nonsucculent survive dry conditions? I know some plants have oils in them to help prevent moisture loss. What are some of the other strategies? (Some plants have tremendous root structures, but the little yellow/orange things do not). I noticed the yellow/orange plants were kind of dingy and not noticable until they exploded after the first rains. Any pointers would be helpful. They are truly beautiful plants and will have a permanent home in my landscaping now that I've seen them flower. (And how they survive with no water or rain for 5 months!) Let me note one more thing I live in Western Gardens zone 16 85% influenced by the ocean, 15% inland. We get *a lot* of fog in the summer, but it's not tremendously wet. I don't think these little plants could grab anything by having fog drip off their leaves. *********************************************************************** Nathan D. Lane, VP Triicon Systems. Lompoc, CA (805) 7331849 NaN != 6, 6 == 1. I am not a number, I am a free list! I'm a programmer my computers are more valuable than my cars. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson Wed Feb 9 18:14:46 EST 1994 Article: 26262 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seed source for cosican mint and wolly thyme Message-ID: <16.2d51fec0@axolotl> Date: 03 Feb 94 13:35:21 CST Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City Sender: news@axolotl.omahug.org (UUscan 1.10) Followup-To: rec.gardens Lines: 23 lkinard@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Lyric Kinard) writes: > > hi lisa, i have lots of catalogs will look for corsican mint and wooly > > thyme andlet you know.z > > Please post this! I've been looking for corsican mint for a while now. > Maybe Richters will have it? Has anyone tried this plant? Will it grow in Yes, Richters sells a corsican mint (Mentha requienii) plant for $3.00 plus shipping & handling. The catalog number is P4007. To order by fax, call +1-905-640-6641. Or you can call +1-905-640-6677 between 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. ET, Monday to Sunday, and place your order with a human. Sorry, I don't have the answers to the remaining questions. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Bob Batson bob.batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org | E-mail address bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org | Backup address ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Under the most controlled conditions, the experimental apparatus will do exactly as it pleases. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!witch!crash!lweitzel Wed Feb 9 18:14:49 EST 1994 Article: 26263 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!witch!crash!lweitzel Newsgroups: rec.gardens Message-ID: <39@crash.win.net> References: <2imd2b$h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU>,<1994Feb3.024202.22960@ccc.amdahl.com><1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> Reply-To: lweitzel@crash.win.net (Laurie Weitzel) From: lweitzel@crash.win.net (Laurie Weitzel) Date: Sat, 05 Feb 1994 02:20:23 GMT Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Lines: 24 > > The anti-freeze is quick and doesn't cost me time or money. > > Unless of course some kid finds that lovely funny green stuff irresistable and then you have to give your money to various hospitals, doctors and/or lawyers! Also you'll have to give your time to the courts and/or jail house! Not to mention what happens to dogs, squirrels and other lifeforms! Have you considered what might happen if it spilt into your garden? Can't you fence with a briar? Or maybe plant some catnip somewhere or get those metal cat thingys I saw posted here a while ago? You could maybe invest in a couple cans of food and put them somewhere ELSE and maybe the cats would go there to get a free handout! I mean really, would YOU like to drink it? Talk about an evil way to kill an animal! I have a cat problem too. All I do is let my dogs play in my yard a couple times, mark their territory and the cats know better than to come here! Please - find a more humane way to deal with the cats. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth Wed Feb 9 18:14:50 EST 1994 Article: 26264 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth From: ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Message-ID: Sender: news@cs.cmu.edu (Usenet News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: organ.music.cs.cmu.edu Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon References: <> <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.stanford.edu> Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 06:40:59 GMT Lines: 39 In article <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.stanford.edu>, Joanne Spetz wrote: >bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Keith William Bowes) writes: >>>I'm open to all opinions, good or bad, regarding OG50 or any other >>>type of tomato you think would be a good choice as this year's >>>"alternate" in my garden. > >I got my first Park's Seed catalog last month. They offer a packet >of the OG50 as a bonus if you order $15 or more (maybe they offered >this because I'm a first-time buyer). Why not, if Park's has other >seeds you want? > >Speaking of which, how will tomatoes do in a container? I've >dedicated every inch of vegetable space I have to other things >but figure I'll give the "free" seeds a try. When should I >start the seeds? I have two strong opinions and a medium-strength one. First, I love Patio Pixie II (improved) and the Whopper (the improved version of which is OG50). You can get the Pixie II from Burpee and maybe Parks, and OG50 is a Park's exclusive. Theixie I II is the best container tomatoe I have grown--it even beats the Tumbler. It is determinate (big surprise) but has incredible yield, resists disease, and the tomatoes taste great. The Whopper is so great that I will wait until my supply of seeds runs out before upgrading to the OG50. (Parks sent me three complimentary packets last year.) My medium-strength opinion is that Viva Italia sucks. (Of course, I am the one-who-cannot-give-life-to-paste-tomatoes-in-Pittsburgh.) But the other two tomato varieties are great, and I especially recommend the Pixie II if you want early yields--great for Lake Erie area, I bet. I have never tried to grow beefsteaks in containers (tomatoes, that is; I am aware that one cannot grow beef from seed.) Good luck. Ruth Sample From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth Wed Feb 9 18:14:51 EST 1994 Article: 26265 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth From: ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) Subject: Re: SEEDS: Looking for herb seeds! Message-ID: Sender: news@cs.cmu.edu (Usenet News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: organ.music.cs.cmu.edu Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon References: <19940202.20072972.amusson@delphi.com> <1994Feb3.142129.8943@leo.vsla.edu> Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 06:25:57 GMT Lines: 27 In article <1994Feb3.142129.8943@leo.vsla.edu>, Susan Wooldridge wrote: >You might try Gurney's Seed & Nursery Co. >110 Capital Street >Yankton, South Dakota 57079 >1-605-665-1930 (Phone) >1-605)665-9817 (Fax, 24 hours a day) > >Good luck! >S. Wooldridge I like Shepherd's Garden Seeds in CT. They have a stunningly good variety of herbs, from the classic to the exotic. I recommend their slow-bolting cilantro and true greek oregano, in addition to their leafy Dukat dill. Shepherd's Garden Seeds 30 Irene Street Orrington, CT 06790-6627 or (203) 482-0532 This year I am trying their pasilla chilis and epazote (for Mexican cooking). Good luck. Ruth Sample From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!mwvm.mitre.org!M17251 Wed Feb 9 18:14:52 EST 1994 Article: 26266 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!mwvm.mitre.org!M17251 From: M17251@mwvm.mitre.org Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mail Order (was Spring Hill: good or bad?) Date: Fri, 04 Feb 94 10:41:29 EST Organization: The MITRE Corporation, McLean VA 22102 Lines: 13 Message-ID: <16F53967ES85.M17251@mwvm.mitre.org> References: <2ic510INNlec@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> <2ihr0s$icb@netnews.upenn.edu> <1994Feb1.144202.2771@brtph560.bnr.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: mwvm.mitre.org > >I've since learned of cheaper sources through this newsgroup, but haven't come across any mail-order companies that appear to be much better (not for >the same price anyway--and Spring Hill is NOT one of the cheaper places to buy from). Maybe I'm noÿ >t ordering from the right places... > I ordered a small garden from Spring Hill and was satisfied by both the price and condition of the plants. I did purchase a collection and doing so supposedly got a good deal. One plant did die soon after planting but Spring Hill replaced it in a matter of days. I was thinking about ordering more but with what I've been reading I'm having second thoughts. Can anyone tell me/us specific examples of what went wrong? Jim From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!portal!cup.portal.com!mothra Wed Feb 9 18:14:53 EST 1994 Article: 26267 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!portal!cup.portal.com!mothra From: mothra@cup.portal.com (Elise - Swope) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Blood Orange Sources? Message-ID: <102836@cup.portal.com> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 94 23:51:37 PST Organization: The Portal System (TM) Distribution: world Lines: 4 Does anyone know of a mail-order source for blood orange trees? I'm looking for a sourcee which ships bare-root (as we live in Hawaii and can not bring in anything with soil). Thanks in advance. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!ts3-52.upenn.edu!user Wed Feb 9 18:14:54 EST 1994 Article: 26268 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!ts3-52.upenn.edu!user From: jewert@mail.sas.upenn.edu (Jeanne Ewert) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What do you know about Spray n' Grow? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Sat, 05 Feb 1994 08:06:07 -0500 Organization: University of Pennsylvania Lines: 14 Message-ID: References: <1994Feb4.130516.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ts3-52.upenn.edu In article <1994Feb4.130516.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu>, rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu (Robert Williams) wrote: > I have an ad for something called "Spray 'n Grow" which is > apparently a spray on fertilizer... or vitamin compound. It makes great > claims for how much it will help all your plants, vegetables, house plants > and the like. Has anyone ever used it and did they notice a difference? I got the same ad. The company is out of Rockport , TX. I was more interested in another product in the same brochure, called Triple Action 20, which purports to be an organic solution for black spot and other similar problems. I'm desperate for an organic medicine for my poor sick roses. Has anyone tried this or know anything about this company? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:14:55 EST 1994 Article: 26269 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Date: 5 Feb 1994 06:29:39 -0800 Organization: California Technology Project of The Calif State Univ Lines: 11 Message-ID: <2j0agj$8l@eis.calstate.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: eis.calstate.edu Tomatoes I have grown...last summer's successes were Pineapple and New "Zealand Paste, both heirlooms from Tomato Growers Supply. Had a few problems with blossom end rot, but once I got a watering schedule down, the product was abundant flavorful tomatoes. I have to agree with a previous writer; I find Viva Italia insipid, but Roma is flavorful, productive, and good for many uses. Oregon Spring is a champ; produces early, long, flavorful tomatoes with no trouble. About the size of Early Girl. -- Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!emba-news.uvm.edu!newton.emba.uvm.edu!ross Wed Feb 9 18:14:56 EST 1994 Article: 26270 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!emba-news.uvm.edu!newton.emba.uvm.edu!ross From: ross@emba-news.uvm.edu.UUCP (Gary Ross) Subject: Re: Urea for composting leaves Message-ID: <1994Feb5.135146.25744@emba.uvm.edu> Originator: ross@newton.emba.uvm.edu Sender: news@emba.uvm.edu Organization: University of Vermont -- Division of EMBA Computer Facility References: <1453300457@cdp> Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 13:51:46 GMT Lines: 21 >From article <1453300457@cdp>, by Libby Goldstein : > urea is a major "chemical" source of N. If you'd rather you can use blood meal > or fish emulsion or meal which are derived from animals not petrochemicals. > > Urea is also good for melting snow and ice without salt damage to street trees > etc. It > > It is fairly cheap. Around here we get it in 50 lb bags for deicing. > > Libby It may be cheap, but I wouldn't use it! You are dumping pur petro-chemical derived organo-nitrogen on the Earth with the goal of having it melt ice (water). It does this well, dissolves in the water which then leaches into the ground and winds up in the water table (read: your tap water). What's wrong with sand? BTW, please don't use the fertilizer argument, we are organic gardeners. :-) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!newncar!csn!krtbrown Wed Feb 9 18:14:57 EST 1994 Article: 26271 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!newncar!csn!krtbrown From: krtbrown@csn.org (Kurt Brown) Subject: Re: HydroGel? Message-ID: Sender: news@csn.org (The Daily Planet) Nntp-Posting-Host: teal.csn.org Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc. X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb4.214552.20686@tigger.jvnc.net> <1994Feb4.221936.22849@news.media.mit.edu> Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 14:50:13 GMT Lines: 24 Dan Griscom (griscom@media.mit.edu) wrote: : Last summer I had a strawberry jar (about 2' tall, with about 2 : gallons of dirt and nine holes in the side.) It didn't do well, mainly : because it required watering every day just to keep it from going bone : dry. A couple of months ago I read a note here that mentioned : something called "HydroGel" (I think.) It was granular: you mixed it : in your soil and watered, and the granules swelled up and absorbed the : water, releasing it as necessary. Voila! less watering required. : Sounds like just the thing for my (now petrified) strawberry jar. : Am I remembering right? Where could I get this stuff? (I expect my : local greenhouse would charge rapacious rates for it...) : Thanks, : Dan Griscom Don, I have seen this stuff in discount building supply stores for months. The price didn't shock me so it couldn't have been too expensive. Try places like Home Depot, Builders Square, etc. Foothill Hydroponics in North Hollywood, CA also carries the stuff. Prices are higher though! Regards, Kurt Brown krtbrown@csn.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:14:58 EST 1994 Article: 26272 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Organic Peaches Date: 5 Feb 1994 06:52:27 -0800 Organization: California Technology Project of The Calif State Univ Lines: 11 Message-ID: <2j0brb$41h@eis.calstate.edu> References: <2iudteINN44p@charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: eis.calstate.edu I am not an ORGANIC GROWER, but I try to minimaize my spraying. Bothe lime sulfur and dormant oils are fairly light weight sprays that used during dormant season may minimize problems. Rotenone , sprayed into the hole,is one organic spray that is recommended. Painting the trunk with tree white(watered down latex paint in a light color; if you are not organic, throw in some sevinto increase the protection) can minimize sun burn; borers are opportunists; when a tree is stressed, they show up for a meal. A proper watering schedule can minimize the stress-- Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:14:59 EST 1994 Article: 26273 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Slugs and Mulch Date: 5 Feb 1994 07:02:09 -0800 Organization: California Technology Project of The Calif State Univ Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j0cdh$6af@eis.calstate.edu> References: <37992@mindlink.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: eis.calstate.edu Ducks work well for slug and snail control. hyowever, mine have a fondness for brassicas of any size(they love Brussel sprouts) and sugar snap peas sl i locked them up. I think letting them go free durning the off season might be sufficient to reduce the population. However, i don't have an off-season. Long-range gardening plan calls for dividing the garden into two sections, one with cover crops for the next season and the other the current vegetables, both with separate fences or a moveable fence.Then the chickens and ducks could grub around without causing much damage. -- Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:15:00 EST 1994 Article: 26274 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Nonsucculent drought tolerant plants how do they do it? Date: 5 Feb 1994 07:07:11 -0800 Organization: California Technology Project of The Calif State Univ Lines: 5 Message-ID: <2j0cmv$7vj@eis.calstate.edu> References: <1994Feb4.074516.13717@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: eis.calstate.edu I'm wondering if some of your plants are buckwheats(Erigonium is the botanical, I think). You liove in a region where some of them are native. Just a guess, judging from your description of propagation and the clumping.-- Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org !news.dorsai.org !not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:15:01 EST 1994 Article: 26275 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org !news.dorsai.org !not-for-mail From: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Looking for madder Date: 5 Feb 1994 10:27:01 -0500 Organization: Dorsai Embassy Lines: 8 Sender: dawyd@news.dorsai.org Message-ID: Reply-To: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org NNTP-Posting-Host: dorsai.dorsai.org Cc: jlupson@uoguelph.ca (Janet Lupson) My wife, who is a spinner and dyer as well as a gardener, said that you should be VERY careful how and where you to grow madder. Apparently it spreads very quickly and grows easily and is considered a pest plant. "The world is indeed comic, but the joke is | David Gurzynski on mankind." H.P. Lovecraft | Brooklyn NY Science does not remove the terror of the Gods | dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!psuvax1!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!cmhcsys.com!jaimef Wed Feb 9 18:15:02 EST 1994 Article: 26276 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!psuvax1!rutgers!psinntp!psinntp!cmhcsys.com!jaimef From: jaimef@cmhcsys.com (Jaime Fuhr) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Michigan Bulb Co Message-ID: <1994Feb04.145809.28272@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com> Date: 4 Feb 94 14:58:09 GMT Sender: news@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com (Usenet News Administrator) Organization: CMHC Systems Lines: 16 X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Has anyone ordered roses from Michigan Bulb Co? I would like to know if you had any problems with their roses. They are'nt Jackson Perkins, but at $3.49 a bush with a Lifetime grow satisfaction guarantee, I guess you can't go wrong. Thanks for any opinions. - jaime -- *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*- Jaime Fuhr, CMHC Systems jaimef@cmhcprd.cmhcsys.COM Columbus, Ohio "None of us are as smart as all of us" DeVry Institute of Technology - The One Minute Manager From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hpuerca.atl.hp.com!root Wed Feb 9 18:15:03 EST 1994 Article: 26277 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hpuerca.atl.hp.com!root From: root@atl.hp.com (smews.atl.hp.com ATC-UX SM) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: southern greenhouses Date: 5 Feb 1994 16:20:24 GMT Organization: Hewlett-Packard NARC Atlanta Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j0h08$mlm@hpuerca.atl.hp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: smews.atl.hp.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] I live in the Atlanta Ga. area and am looking to build a greenhouse. Does anyone know of any good suppliers in this area? Also I would like to know of anyones success stories with greenhouses in this area; does the summer heat kill? etc...... thanks, mike mbm@smews.atl.hp.com ellen@mmorley4ntx.atl.hp.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!mozart.amil.jhu.edu!blaze.cs.jhu.edu!jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu!jobone!ed8200!pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com!millerb Wed Feb 9 18:15:04 EST 1994 Article: 26278 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!mozart.amil.jhu.edu!blaze.cs.jhu.edu!jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu!jobone!ed8200!pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com!millerb From: millerb@pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com (Bryan Miller) Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Message-ID: <1994Feb5.160628.19257@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Followup-To: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Sender: news@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com Organization: Ford Motor Co., Powertrain Electronics X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7] References: Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 16:06:28 GMT Lines: 53 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:70743 alt.config:23908 rec.gardens:26278 misc.rural:7705 Michael Moroney appears to have written on Fri, 4 Feb 1994 04:39:45 GMT: > I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. > There are some 100,000 hobbiest beekeepers in the US alone, and many > more worldwide. At this time there is no Usenet group devoted to this, > and no others are really close. Rec.gardens - well honeybees aren't plants. > Misc.rural, many city people keep hives. Rec.pets, honeybees aren't pets. > > The purpose of this group is discussing the various aspects of beekeeping, > how to start, obtaining bees and equipment, setting up the equipment, > preparing them for the seasons, honey harvesting, tips and techniques, > questions and answers etc. It is more intended as an interchange of > new and up-to-date information such as new breeds, the spread of various > diseases or the Africanized bee, new rules or regulations and not a > replacement for getting a beekeeping book (there are many good books > out there) > > It is not intended for "How do I get rid of the 'bees' (read yellowjackets > or wasps) that are living in my garage/attic/garden/etc." type questions. > Possible exception: When the person _knows_ they're honeybees, a posting > (with a proper local distribution) asking whether a beekeeper wants them, > and if they're located in a place they can be removed from safely. > > There is a mailing list, BEE-L, but this group seems to be a well-kept > secret, and it is a bee biology list rather rather than a beekeeping > list (though there are beekeeping discussions) > > I believe it should be rec.beekeeping (perhaps rec..beekeeping) > A sci. group would duplicate the BEE-L list, so it would be best to orient > this toward the hobby beekeeper. > > -Mike -- Mike, I think the beekeeping group is a great idea! As a beekeeping newbie it would prove invaluable. Perhaps we should initialize a formal request to start such a group. Bryan ----------------------------------------------------------------- \\___// | | Bryan Miller |_____| Embedded Software Engineer || o || Control Systems Software || \\|| Powertrain Electronics Department \\ Ford Motor Company o TEL : 313.84.54248 // FAX : 313.32.36743 O EMAIL : millerb@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com <<< I don't speak for Ford, nor they for me... >>> From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Wed Feb 9 18:15:05 EST 1994 Article: 26279 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sterilizing Compost From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4512.2552.0N41F33A@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 94 00:42:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 50 This message was originally addressed to LKINARD@SALZO.CARY.NC.US and a carbon copy was sent to you. ---------------------------------------- L>I love reading your articles! Mr. Compost...where do you get all your >info? Is this your job? Been making soils and compost professionally since 1975. Write books, do consulting, design systems, teach. Whatever is in the field, I try to be the first and the best! >I have a question. Did you see an article a few months back I think in >Organic Gardening about compost? It mentioned one guy who does not turn >his pile but puts a big hunk of PVC with holes drilled all over it down >the middle for air circulation and says it really cooks. Yes I did see it, and it made me chuckle. His pile cooks *despite* putting the pipes down the middle. What he is doing right is mixing well and making compost as a batch, rather than just dumping stuff in a container and hoping for the best. You take his goofy pipes out and I am sure it would cook just as well, maybe better. The pipes should be at the base, not up the middle. I have not had >the good yummy dark crumbly compost I desire yet because I don't have >time to turn and don't have money for a fancy bin. I don't turn my piles and I don't use a fancy bin, and my piles cook in three weeks. I will post my "how to compost" again for the rec.gardens folks. My last years leaf >pile is going on this years garden...I should say IN the garden as I plan >to till it. >I long to see steam but haven't ever seen it yet. Follow the tips in the other note and you will have hot compost, guaranteed! Mr Compost~~~ Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 3rd - Reunite Gondwanaland! cc: all From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Wed Feb 9 18:15:06 EST 1994 Article: 26280 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: composting From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4513.2552.0N41F33B@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 94 00:42:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 95 This message was originally addressed to BILLC@LSIL.COM and a carbon copy was sent to you. ---------------------------------------- Bill Casanova writes B>I have a quick question for you. B>I have a compost area that I keep at the base of a >large oak tree. The compost consist of kitchen >waist primarily like vegetables. There is also >some horse manuer. The oak is probably a high-brid >of laurel and live oaks. The area is east coast >central Florida. The tree is about 40 ft high and >20" in diameter at the trunk. Is this compost >potentially harmfull to the oak? B>Thanks, Bill, Composting under trees is a great place to compost. But if you leave the compost there too long, the roots will start growing up into the pile. Here is a story about one of my first compost piles under an apricot tree. Hope you like it. When I took up composting in 1971, my first piles were made with grass clippings I gleaned from the garbage on my way home from work and college. Before too long, I had a dozen compost piles going and a geometrically increasing number of redworm beds. Out in the back near the alley were several piles that had been built beneath what I had thought was a dead tree of some sort. As I worked, I came to know an elderly gentleman who walked the neighborhood. He didn't talk much, but seemed interested in my odd activities with the piles. As the summer went on, I noticed that the "dead tree" with compost piles beneath it had not only come back to life, it had flowered and produced apricots! Not just any old apricots, but the largest, sweetest, and most colorful fruit I had ever seen. One fall afternoon, I was out turning piles and there was the old man, looking at me beneath the tree with tears in his eyes. "Are you all right?" I asked. Holding himself steady against my arm, he said quietly, "I planted that tree. Long ago. It gave the finest apricots until after the war and then it never produced again. I thought it had died. Now look at it. It has fruit again." "Have you tasted one?" I asked. He looked at me as if I had accused him of stealing or trespassing. "No of course not!" he replied. I climbed the tree and retrieved a few and the two of us enjoyed the finest snack of our lives. At that time the tree was over sixty years old and the man was in his eighties. I knew that compost under the tree had leached not only nutrients, but life itself into the soil. Years of composting and reading about the miracle of compost has reconfirmed this experience. Well made compost and earthworm castings, the excreta of redworms and soil worms, have beneficial properties not predictable from chemical analysis alone. Vitality is the only word that I know to describe what compost and worms can do. In Dr. Thomas Barrett's Book (1948) "Harnessing the Earthworm", he tells of orchards and groves brought back to life and of trees that continued to produce even after 70 years as a result of layering the soil around the base of the tree all the way out to the edge of the branch line. I have repeated the process myself with a variety of trees and shrubs. I have pictures of tree rings showing growth three times that of previous years following mulching with compost. The results are so incredible that I consider chemically dependent farming to be as lifeless as an drug addict compared to a full and healthy life without chemicals. Pheromones are just one example of wonderful and nearly magical properties of a rich and living soil. There are several beneficial properties of these chemicals, in reality scents, that attract beneficial organisms and deter pests. The good "rich earth" smell of meadow or forest soil comes from the same organisms that make compost rich. This smell alone can change a dead and disease infested soil into an oasis for living things, especially plants. Whether the compost comes from a garden center, a soil dealer, or a municipal compost facility, the microbes are the same and will work their wonders and feed the worms wherever we may happen to be. This is a simple formula. Feed the soil to feed the worms that feed the plants that feed the animals, of which we are one. Mr Compost~~~ Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 3rd - Frisbyterian: when you die, your soul goes up on the roof cc: all From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org !news.dorsai.org !not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:15:07 EST 1994 Article: 26281 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org !news.dorsai.org !not-for-mail From: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Community Garden in Floyd Bennet fld Brooklyn NY Date: 5 Feb 1994 12:17:06 -0500 Organization: Dorsai Embassy Lines: 74 Sender: dawyd@news.dorsai.org Message-ID: <6cyKjaLp8LKM053yn@dorsai.dorsai.org> Reply-To: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org NNTP-Posting-Host: dorsai.dorsai.org Summary: Letter notifying the opening of Garden season at GNRA Keywords: Community Garden For those of you living in or around Brooklyn NY who might be interested in joining a community garden you might be interested in the text of a letter that I got the other day. My wife and I participated in this program last year and enjoyed it greatly and will (if we get in) participate in it this year. THIS IS NOT AN OFFICIAL POSTING BY THE USDI OR THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE OR GATEWAY NATIONAL RECREATION AREA BUT MY OWN FOR THE PUBLIC INTEREST OF THOSE WHO READ REC.GARDENS. David Gurzynski dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org --------------------------------------- United States Department of the Interior National Park Service Gateway National Recreation Area Breezy Point/Jamaica Bay Unit Hangar B Floyd Bennett Field Brooklyn NY 11234 January 11,1994 Dear Garden Applicant: Gatwesay National Recreation Area, Jamaica Bay District, is beginning preparation for the 1994 Gardening Season. All garden plots are 10 fee x 20 feet long and are limited to one plot per family unit. In order to be eligible, you must fill out and return the enclosed application. APPLICATIONS MUST BE POSTMARKED NO LATER THAN MIDNIGHT MARCH 19, 1994. We will try to accomodate all applicants that apply for garden plots for the 1994 Community Garden program. In previous years we have conducted open public lotteries and established a waiting list from the overflow of applications. This year we anticipate a lottery will not be necessary. All garden applicants will be contacted by mail the 2nd week of April. A letter will notify you whether you are eligible for a garden plot. You will have to pick up the permit, plot munber and rules and regulations in person. Details for permit pick up and any other necessary information will be outlined in your next letter. NOTE: APPLICANTS MUST PICK UP THEIR OWN PERMIT. Remember to PRINT CLEARLY on both the top and bottom sections of the application and include your zip code, a correct daytime telephone number and your last year's plot number, if you were a gardener last year. Be sure to send only ONE APPLICATION PER HOUSEHOLD. All duplications will be omitted from the Gardening program. For further information, please contact Park Ranger Ada Best (Garden Coordinator) at (718) 338-3799 at the jamaica Bay District Office. Thank you for your interest in the Community Gardens. Tom McGrath Acting Superintendent Breezy Point/Jamaica Bay Unit ----------------------------- You could probably get more information, or a copy of this letter and the application form if they call Ranger Best at the number shown above and ask for it. "The world is indeed comic, but the joke is | David Gurzynski on mankind." H.P. Lovecraft | Brooklyn NY Science does not remove the terror of the Gods | dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org "The world is indeed comic, but the joke is | David Gurzynski on mankind." H.P. Lovecraft | Brooklyn NY Science does not remove the terror of the Gods | dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Wed Feb 9 18:15:08 EST 1994 Article: 26282 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: bugs on cactus References: <39240008@opus.hpl.hp.com> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 17 Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 17:08:29 +0000 Message-ID: <760468109snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article <39240008@opus.hpl.hp.com> jewett@opus.hpl.hp.com "Bob Jewett" writes: > > > If you are disinclined to use chemical pesticides then soft-soap > > (Safers) should do the trick. > > A note from a reader in the latest Amateur's Digest (printed in Canada, > about cacti and succulents) says they tried an extra-dilute solution of > insecticidal soap, and it ruined their cactus plant. > It's not impossible, I suppose, but did anyone suggest *why* this might have happened? I've just checked in the latest RHS Encyclopedia of Gardening and they, too, suggest insectidal soap for dealing with these bugs. Has anyone any ideas or data which might suggest that soaps can harm cacti? If they can pass it on it would certainly be helpful. -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Wed Feb 9 18:15:09 EST 1994 Article: 26283 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Potato Bugs and Yellow Worms Message-ID: <9@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 5 Feb 94 17:28:08 GMT References: <19940204.20531520.amusson@delphi.com> Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 47 amusson@delphi.com (Adriann Musson) writes: > My potato plants were eaten alive by potato bugs. My bean plants fell to > yellow worms. Looking for ORGANIC solution. Any advice appreciated. Thanks. Potato bugs -- I assume you had problems with the Colorado Potato Beetle (or a close relative). There is a bacterial control (Bt/san diego, marketed as M-one or Colorado Potato Beetle Beater). It is supposed to be very effective against young larvae. Using a heavy hay mulch on the potatoes can discourage the beetles -- it seems to interfere with their life-cyle. Hand picking of adults and egg masses (my approach) works on small scale plantings. Some people recommend planting beans between rows of tomatoes to repel potato beetles, but none of my references support it. A special tomato variety, 'Allure', is being marketed for use as a trap crop. This variety is supposed to be extremely attractive to the beetles, allowing you to trap and destroy the pests. (Available from Stokes Seeds, supply is limited.) Yellow worms on beans -- Were these worms feeding on the leaves, or some sort of underground phenomenon? Here are two bean pests with yellowish larvae. Wireworms (the underground larvae of click beetles) can take a toll on bean seeds. Beneficial nematodes can help control these and other underground larvae. Numerous references suggest trapping them using pieces of cut potatoes, but I've never tried it. Mexican bean beetles have yellowish larvae, but not especially worm-like. They look more like yellow versions of ladybug larvae. (I've seen them only in illustrations, so any advice I can give is all from books). Possible controls: DE (diatomaceous earth), hand-picking adults and eggs, row covers, cleanup (pull and destroy infested plants, follow beans with heavy mulch or cover crop), horticultural oil (smothers eggs and larvae). Spined soldier bugs are predators (available from mail-order suppliers). Suggestions of spraying plants with extracts from cedar chips or garlic. Planting early varieties, as pest is worst in late summer (purple beans suggested as less attractive). Hope this information proves useful. 12:13PM 2/5/94 -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews Wed Feb 9 18:15:10 EST 1994 Article: 26284 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!spool.mu.edu!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer) Subject: Re: Michigan Bulb Co Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News) Message-ID: Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 19:12:57 GMT Distribution: usa References: <1994Feb04.145809.28272@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: jurassic.ch.apollo.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard Corporation, Chelmsford, MA Lines: 24 In article <1994Feb04.145809.28272@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com> jaimef@cmhcsys.com (Jaime Fuhr) writes: >Has anyone ordered roses from Michigan Bulb Co? I would like to know if >you had any problems with their roses. > >They are'nt Jackson Perkins, but at $3.49 a bush with a Lifetime grow >satisfaction guarantee, I guess you can't go wrong. Depends on what you like spending your time doing, I guess. This company seems to be an at-least-quarterly-discussed topic on this group. I don't know about roses in particular, but as to their general service, the consensus here seems to be that you certainly get no more than you pay for. On the other hand, I have a gardening friend who swears by (not at) them. He's especially fond of their "no questions asked, satisfaction guaranteed" policy, too. He _also_ seems to use that guarantee quite frequently; to him I guess it's worth the hassle. Me, I'd rather spend a little more to avoid replanting things unnecessarily often... -- "I feel lightheaded, Sam. I think my brain | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com is out of air. But it's kind of a neat | /HP/org/chart/says/you/are/here feeling..." --Freelance Police | Massachusetts Language Lab From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!destroyer!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!acs.ucalgary.ca!parrp Wed Feb 9 18:15:11 EST 1994 Article: 26285 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!destroyer!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!acs.ucalgary.ca!parrp From: parrp@acs.ucalgary.ca (Pamala Parr) Subject: Re: Vermi composting Message-ID: Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 19:08:59 GMT References: Organization: The University of Calgary, Alberta Lines: 20 In article metcalfe@UPEI.CA (Gail Metcalfe) writes: >I am interested in finding if there are others who are "into" >vermicomposting. I have just started and am looking for "words of wisdom" > >In particular, the rich soil which results - does it need to be mixed with >potting soil or can it be used as is? Would it be too rich for flowering >plants resulting in lots of greenery and no flowers? I am an unhappy former vermicomposter. I had an excellent set up in my former apartment but have had to move to a smaller one where there is just no room and since our weather becomes sub-zero in the winter I cannot keep the box on the balcony. IN anser to your question about the soil, yes it should be mixed with other soils if you are planning on using it for indoor plants. It is very strong. I used to make so much that I gave it to my friends for their vegetable gardens. I had to give my worms away but I will start again when I am able to as I eat a lot of vegetables and it distresses me to throw away the skins etc.. Good luck and be prepared for thousands of worms to be born. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!mars.dsu.edu!columbia.dsu.edu!hotzc Wed Feb 9 18:15:12 EST 1994 Article: 26286 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!mars.dsu.edu!columbia.dsu.edu!hotzc From: hotzc@columbia.dsu.edu (CHRISTOPHER HOTZ) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Cats in yard... Date: 5 Feb 1994 20:51:59 GMT Organization: Dakota State University Lines: 12 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sc116-001.dsu.edu I find it remarkable that no one mentioned using a low-powered bb/pellet pistol or gun. A number of them will only give the animal a good sting. This probably has legal implications though and therefore would not be the greatest things to try. Generally I don't have any problems with cat though and if I did I would first try to work it out with the neighbors or find some natural repellant. The gun method would be a final resort and if that didn't work then...... well maybe a .22 would work... Anyway good cat repelling. chris From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!mars.dsu.edu!columbia.dsu.edu!hotzc Wed Feb 9 18:15:13 EST 1994 Article: 26287 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!mars.dsu.edu!columbia.dsu.edu!hotzc From: hotzc@columbia.dsu.edu (CHRISTOPHER HOTZ) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Greenhouse equipment suppliers??? Date: 5 Feb 1994 20:55:15 GMT Organization: Dakota State University Lines: 11 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sc116-001.dsu.edu As an assistant in the small greenhouse on the Dakota State University campus; I am looking for any address' for greenhouse equipment suppliers or where to find this information. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Chris Hotz hotzc@columbia.dsu.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!nic.hookup.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!news.clark.net!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:15:15 EST 1994 Article: 26288 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!nic.hookup.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!news.clark.net!not-for-mail From: jcp@clark.net (Jody C. Patilla) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Date: 5 Feb 1994 16:42:48 -0500 Organization: Fluffy Otter Kindercare Lines: 19 Message-ID: <2j13so$a7k@explorer.clark.net> References: <> <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: explorer.clark.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In article , Ruth Moabite wrote: >My medium-strength opinion is that Viva Italia sucks. (Of course, I am >the one-who-cannot-give-life-to-paste-tomatoes-in-Pittsburgh.) But the >other two tomato varieties are great, and I especially recommend the >Pixie II if you want early yields--great for Lake Erie area, I bet. I I've had exceptionally good luck with Viva Italia. It is the most disease-resistant paste tomato I have ever grown, and in my fusarium-infested yard, that's really important. I've grown it in raised beds and in big pots and it does well regardless. FOr me, it has been very productive over a long season (August to November) and we find the flavor very good (my spousal unit, "Mr. GOurmet Pizza", likes to slice them right onto the pizza dough with garlic and basil). -- jcpatilla jcp@clark.net "Fling your beavers aloft!" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!eniac.seas.upenn.edu!larry Wed Feb 9 18:15:16 EST 1994 Article: 26289 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!eniac.seas.upenn.edu!larry From: larry@seas.upenn.edu (larry) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mystery tree Date: 5 Feb 1994 22:34:59 GMT Organization: University of Pennsylvania Lines: 9 Message-ID: <2j16uj$mfs@netnews.upenn.edu> References: <2ij9oc$6h2@rand.org> <1453300455@cdp> NNTP-Posting-Host: eniac.seas.upenn.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] It could be a Larch -larix . This is a deciduous evergreen. will -- _________________ larry martinelli opinions are mine, and only mine larry@eniac.seas.upenn.edu ...with liberty and justice, for ALL! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!eniac.seas.upenn.edu!larry Wed Feb 9 18:15:17 EST 1994 Article: 26290 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!eniac.seas.upenn.edu!larry From: larry@seas.upenn.edu (larry) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: looking for source of Bamboo.... Date: 5 Feb 1994 22:42:14 GMT Organization: University of Pennsylvania Lines: 9 Message-ID: <2j17c6$mfs@netnews.upenn.edu> References: <31JAN94.22150644@shrsys.hslc.org> <1453300458@cdp> NNTP-Posting-Host: eniac.seas.upenn.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Rain Tree Nursery is another source. Their address is: 391 Butts Road Morton, WA 98356 (206) 496-6400 Will -- _________________ larry martinelli opinions are mine, and only mine larry@eniac.seas.upenn.edu ...with liberty and justice, for ALL! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!eniac.seas.upenn.edu!larry Wed Feb 9 18:15:20 EST 1994 Article: 26291 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!eniac.seas.upenn.edu!larry From: larry@seas.upenn.edu (larry) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Greenhouse equipment suppliers??? Date: 5 Feb 1994 22:52:12 GMT Organization: University of Pennsylvania Lines: 9 Message-ID: <2j17us$mfs@netnews.upenn.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: eniac.seas.upenn.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] The current Winter edition of _House Plant_ magazine just so happens to have the names and addresses of almost 15 such places. I bought this mag. today at Barnes&Noble bookstore for $3.95. Good luck. -- _________________ larry martinelli opinions are mine, and only mine larry@eniac.seas.upenn.edu ...with liberty and justice, for ALL! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!jlupson Wed Feb 9 18:15:21 EST 1994 Article: 26292 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!jlupson From: jlupson@uoguelph.ca (Janet Lupson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How to find leak in pond? Date: 5 Feb 1994 23:25:42 GMT Organization: University of Guelph Lines: 46 Distribution: na Message-ID: <2j19tm$cqk@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: herman.cs.uoguelph.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Harsh Sharma (harsh@austin.ibm.com) wrote: : In article ahill@boi.hp.com (Andy Hill) writes: : >I've a small PVC-lined pond that has a small leak. Over the course of : >a week, the pond level will drop about 5 inches, and then stay steady. : >Since this localizes the area of the leak to somewhere on that level, : >you'd think the leak would be easy to find. No such luck. : > : >Any pointers for finding leaks? Alternately, is there a method of "painting" : >an area that would close off pinholes (preferably with even in water, but : >I can lower the water level if need be). : > : I would say that there are probably few way to try and find the leak. : (remember that I have not tried any one of these ideas, this is just : to get the discussion started). : 1) binary search - some how (I know ! I know !) seal a 1/4 of the : surface at which you suspect a leak. Move this seal around untill : you can determine which 1/4 area has the leak. Once that area is : determined, follow the procedure similar to above within that area, : till you find the leak. (you can start with 1/4 search patter, it : will just take you longer --- you knew that !:-)) : 2) pattern search - apply a dye that floats on the water (I know ! : I know !), and you should be able to see a movement of this : dye toward the hole. (try it on the day that has very little wind) : >Thanks! : > : >-- : >Andy Hill : >ahill@boi.hp.com : I hope it helps, if if does not ... I hope it got you thinking. : Harsh- : --------- __o __o __o me ! who else? __o : -------- _`\<,_ _`\<, _`\<, ~~~~~~~ _`\<, : ------- (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) ~~~~~~~~ (*)/ (*) : harsh@netftp.austin.ibm.com BLDG 045/Zip 4305 Austin RS/6000 x838-5335 RE: solution #2 - how about a bit of oil with food colouring in it - that should float on water but I don't know how easy it would be to clean up. Jan jlupson@uoguelph.ca From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!psuvm!dwm7 Wed Feb 9 18:15:22 EST 1994 Article: 26293 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!psuvm!dwm7 Organization: Penn State University Date: Sat, 5 Feb 1994 17:40:08 EST From: dinty w. moore Message-ID: <94036.174008DWM7@psuvm.psu.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: bishop's weed Lines: 4 The previous owner of this home filled the beds with a groundcover known as Bishop's Weed, and though it is an attractive ivy-like groundcover, it is choking off everything else. Any ides how to rid myself of it? The roots are deep and tenacious. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!ukma!ovation!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones Wed Feb 9 18:15:24 EST 1994 Article: 26294 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!ukma!ovation!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones From: bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) Subject: Re: Gardening magazines (was: Re: OG email update) Message-ID: X-Disclaimer: Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of NVL Sender: usenet@nvl.army.mil Nntp-Posting-Host: 140.183.12.36 Reply-To: bajones@nvl.army.mil Organization: Night Vision Labs, Ft Belvoir, VA References: <2ijl0pINNisr@hatteras.cs.unc.edu> <1994Jan31.191728.22138@cobra.uni.edu> Date: Wed, 2 Feb 1994 14:39:14 GMT Lines: 42 In article <1994Jan31.191728.22138@cobra.uni.edu> klier@cobra.uni.edu writes: >In article , ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (Tom Dugan) writes: >> In article <2ijl0pINNisr@hatteras.cs.unc.edu>, kupstas@cs.unc.edu (Eileen Kupstas) writes: >> |> >> |> I was subscribed to Horticulture and enjoyed the magazine, but I >> |> found the initial "pay up deadbeat" letter so offensive that I won't >> |> renew my subscription. I hadn't even received the first magazine (in >> |> a "Bill me Later" offer) before the first obnoxious letter arrived. >> |> Then a "Pay up to preserve your credit rating" letter enclosed in the >> |> very first magazine! >> |> Is this typical? Was I marked a deadbeat based on my zip code >> |> or something? No other magazine has done this (yet... I'm trying Fine >> |> Gardening this year.. no nasty note so far). The company has been >> |> put very low on my list of pleasant companies... >> >> Jeepers! I certainly didn't have that experience. It's fairly easy to get my >> back up with that sort of behavior. Sorry you had that experience. Anybody >> else have this sort of thing happen? >\\ > >Yup. I never did get an issue... but did get several (ahem!) interesting >letters which only stopped when I threatened to file for a restraining >order for harrassment. >> > >Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI > Yikes! And I just sent in the little card that says they'll send you one free issue and if you like it they'll start a subscription and bill you! Oh no............. Ebeth -- Elizabeth Jones E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil "A home without a cat, and a well-fed, well-petted, and properly revered cat, may be a perfect home, *perhaps*, but how can it prove its title?" Mark Twain From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins Wed Feb 9 18:15:25 EST 1994 Article: 26295 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins From: ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) Newsgroups: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Date: 6 Feb 1994 03:45:06 GMT Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation Lines: 14 Message-ID: <9402052242595.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1c.delphi.com Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:70813 alt.config:23933 rec.gardens:26295 misc.rural:7707 >I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. I'd be interested in such a group. I do not currently keep bees here in Ohio Valley suburbia, but I did in the Appalachians of my adolescence. I hope to start again sometime soon and would welcome the information I could gain from a newsgroup. I'm not sure I would have much to contribute, but I can promise to be a faithful lurker. Greg -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Hankins ghankins@delphi.com "'Tis well said," replied Candide Hendersonville, Tennessee "but we must also tend our gardens." -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins Wed Feb 9 18:15:27 EST 1994 Article: 26296 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins From: ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Where to Buy Herb Seeds Date: 6 Feb 1994 03:43:49 GMT Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation Lines: 15 Message-ID: <9402052242591.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1c.delphi.com >I've now learned that I hate coriander leaves (just another name for >cilantro!) and that you can't grow edible mint from seeds. *Hate cilantro!* Impossible. Of course, few people like cilantro straight. But throw a few in a salad bowl with other mixed greens and use a peanut sauce and honey lime dressing. Fantastic! Or throw a handful in a food processor with paste tomatoes, garlic, green chiles, lime juice, and scallions. Great salsa! Greg -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Hankins ghankins@delphi.com "'Tis well said," replied Candide Hendersonville, Tennessee "but we must also tend our gardens." -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins Wed Feb 9 18:15:28 EST 1994 Article: 26297 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins From: ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gardening magazines (was: Re: OG ema Date: 6 Feb 1994 03:44:11 GMT Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation Lines: 32 Message-ID: <9402052242592.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> References: <33@crash.win.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1c.delphi.com > I'd really like to know about good magazines as well. I was all >set to go out and get Organic Gardening, but..... if it's in >picture language I dunno. :) I need something that will tell me >WHY I'm doing something along with how to do it! My subscription to OG goes back several years to the pre-McGrath era. The magazine is distinctly more fun under the new editor's leadership -- though not for gardeners, writers, or readres who insist on taking themselves *way* too seriously. OG has definitely *not* been "dumbed-down" (a new phrase for me, the use of which surely identifies its user as someone taking themselves *way* too seriously), though it has been "cutesied-up" more than may be necessary. Key point: It is still the best magazine source of info on organic vegetable growing available. Yes, you will find the standard "new varieties" round-ups and other articles of questionable merit. But you will also find lots of very, very useful information; articles by some of the best organic gardeners around; great reader contributions; and one of the most entertaining letters to the editor sections around. Many articles are accompanied by graphics -- but many are excellent explanatory graphics that complement the solid information in the article. People (and magazines) should not live by text alone! If organic vegetable gardening is your game, I'd suggest you check out a copy or two on the newstand or in your local library. Greg -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Hankins ghankins@delphi.com "'Tis well said," replied Candide Hendersonville, Tennessee "but we must tend our gardens." -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins Wed Feb 9 18:15:30 EST 1994 Article: 26298 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins From: ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Date: 6 Feb 1994 03:44:30 GMT Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation Lines: 26 Message-ID: <9402052242593.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> References: <2ip4rt$jn2@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1c.delphi.com >What is the cheapest way to implement this scheme? I don't want to >spend $100-150 on one of those fancy systems of racks and adjustable >height lights. Is it useless to have a fixed-height light? For several I have used a homemade setup that involves a cheap standard five-high set of metal shelves plus five inexpensive four-foot flouescent fixtures. I got the shelving free when my wife's company threw them out. I then bought a couple of flourescent fixtures each year for the next couple of years. I use light duty chains to adjust the height of the lights suspended under each shelf. Last year, for father's day, I got a new, larger set of shelves and a few more light fixtures. I have room for 20 regular-sized flats -- but I started small. BTW, all of this lives in the garage; it probably isn't attractive enough for most dens. Greg -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Hankins ghankins@delphi.com "'Tis well said," replied Candide Hendersonville, Tennessee "but we must also our gardens." -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins Wed Feb 9 18:15:31 EST 1994 Article: 26299 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins From: ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (es Date: 6 Feb 1994 03:44:48 GMT Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation Lines: 18 Message-ID: <9402052242594.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> References: <2irf2h$iks@jac.zko.dec.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1c.delphi.com >As for other types to try: have you ever tried Brandywine? It's an >indeterminate heirloom type, grows like a weed, and produces *huge* >beefsteak tomatoes with a very fine flavor. Takes a while to get going, >but once it starts producing it keeps on. It's supposedly not as >disease-resistant as modern varieties, but if that's not a problem >where you are you might consider it. I'll second this vote for Brandywine. It is an absolutely excellent-tasting tomato. It is indeterminant and produces over a long season, but it does not produce overall nearly as many fruit as some of the more modern varities. I find it definitely worth the space in the garden. Greg -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Hankins ghankins@delphi.com "'Tis well said," replied Candide Hendersonville, Tennessee "but we must also tend our gardens." -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:15:32 EST 1994 Article: 26300 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail From: Jeff.Welch@launchpad.unc.edu (jeffrey ei]ugene       ugene welch) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Unicorn Plant Source Needed Date: 6 Feb 1994 03:59:11 GMT Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service Lines: 12 Distribution: na Message-ID: <2j1puf$sv2@samba.oit.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu Has anyone seen a listing for the unicorn plant in their seed catalogs? Its usually grown for its ornamental seed pods. The one I'm looking for is Ibicella (Martynia) lutea and has yellow flowers. Any information would be helpful. Thanks! Jeff -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf Wed Feb 9 18:15:34 EST 1994 Article: 26301 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. References: <1994Feb5.160628.19257@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Date: Sun, 6 Feb 1994 02:55:40 GMT Lines: 36 In article <1994Feb5.160628.19257@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com>, Bryan Miller wrote: ...stuff deleted... >Mike, > >I think the beekeeping group is a great idea! As a beekeeping newbie >it would prove invaluable. Perhaps we should initialize a formal >request to start such a group. > >Bryan >----------------------------------------------------------------- > \\___// > | | Bryan Miller > |_____| Embedded Software Engineer > || o || Control Systems Software > || \\|| Powertrain Electronics Department > \\ Ford Motor Company > o TEL : 313.84.54248 > // FAX : 313.32.36743 > O EMAIL : millerb@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com > > > <<< I don't speak for Ford, nor they for me... >>> Look for the RFD: rec.beekeeping coming soon from alt.groups as soon as a name for the group is decided on. Adam -- =============================================================================== Adam Finkelstein VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801 703-433-1006 (V) 703-434-5607 (Fax) 703-564-4394 (Pager) adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu |Bees To Please| ================================================================================ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!mm7c+ Wed Feb 9 18:15:35 EST 1994 Article: 26302 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!cis.ohio-state.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!mm7c+ From: "Mitzi E. Morris" Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: OG/Rodale (was: Re: Gardening magazines (was: Re: OG email update)) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 1994 00:47:21 -0500 Organization: Sponsored account, Philosophy, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 22 Message-ID: References: <2h2som$3rj@gap.cco.caltech.edu> <1994Jan31.224851.1@eagle.wesleyan.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: po6.andrew.cmu.edu In-Reply-To: <1994Jan31.224851.1@eagle.wesleyan.edu> Jeff Brooks (jbrooks@eagle.wesleyan.edu) writes: > >Since McGrath at OG won't never read this, I'll speak up for him. >Read a few of the editorials that are written about the Rodale >Foundation and OG's mission toward organic gardening. how about the Rodale Foundation and OG's mission towards junk mail? since being given a subscription a year ago last xmas, I have gotten more glossy junk mail mailings - special offers, etc, from Rodale than issues of OG. I wasn't particularly impressed by OG, either, and did not renew my subscription. the most interesting thing in the magazine was the amount of hate mail from readers generated by the March or April cover, which was done by a big-name comic book artist. what a lot of humourless people. not at all like the readership of rec.gardens ;-). cheers, Mitzi From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!illuminati.io.com!indial1.io.com!mentor Wed Feb 9 18:15:36 EST 1994 Article: 26303 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!illuminati.io.com!indial1.io.com!mentor From: mentor@indial1.io.com (Loyd Blankenship) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Yellowing Leaves! HELP! Date: 6 Feb 1994 06:28:54 GMT Organization: Illuminati Online Lines: 20 Message-ID: <2j22n6$4fc@illuminati.io.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: indial1.io.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] About 4 weeks ago I planted a whole bunch of tomato seedlings. I'm keeping them under 2 150 watt incandesent (sp?) grow lights, and they seem to be happy with the lighting. I fertilized them once with a commercial seedling fertilizer (5-20-10, and didn't over-feed). They're growing in a potting soil mix in peat pots. The problem is that the edges of some of the leaves are turning yellow! It doesn't look good. Is this a nitrogen defeciency? Or is it a sign that they were over-fed? Or is it something else? Help! Loyd -- * Loyd Blankenship /o\ mentor@io.com (Finger for PGP key) * * 2529 Glen Springs Way / \ "And keep on praying through that bass, * * Austin, TX 78741 /fnord\ for it is a link to Jah. One love, one * * /_______\ heart, one destiny." -- Flabba Holt * From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!srgenprp!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!opus!jewett Wed Feb 9 18:15:37 EST 1994 Article: 26304 of rec.gardens From: jewett@opus.hpl.hp.com (Bob Jewett) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 1994 05:55:28 GMT Subject: Re: bugs on cactus Message-ID: <39240009@opus.hpl.hp.com> Organization: HP Labs, High Speed Electronics Dept., Palo Alto, CA Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!srgenprp!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!opus!jewett Newsgroups: rec.gardens References: Lines: 8 > Has anyone any ideas or data which might suggest that soaps can harm > cacti? If they can pass it on it would certainly be helpful. The genus mentioned in the Amateur's Digest was Trichocereus. The writer refers to a previous warning in AD about insecticidal soap, but I don't have that issue. Bob From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!CC.UMontreal.CA!vermetts Wed Feb 9 18:15:39 EST 1994 Article: 26305 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!CC.UMontreal.CA!vermetts From: vermetts@ERE.UMontreal.CA (Vermette Stephane) Subject: Re: Vermi composting Message-ID: Sender: news@cc.umontreal.ca (Administration de Cnews) Organization: Universite de Montreal References: Date: Sun, 6 Feb 1994 06:31:50 GMT Lines: 30 In article parrp@acs.ucalgary.ca (Pamala Parr) writes: >I am an unhappy former vermicomposter. I had an excellent set >up in my former apartment but have had to move to a smaller one >where there is just no room and since our weather becomes >sub-zero in the winter I cannot keep the box on the balcony. IN I'm in Montreal, where the weather becomes sub-sub zero and stays taht way for many months. We keep our worms in a bin in the kitchen, in a dark corner beside the garbage can. It's very handy in that location; any scraps can be dumped immediately into it. The "cover" is a scrap of very very fine netting, secured with a bungy cord (we used to have a plastic cover with holes, but that didn't allow enough moisture to escape and the compost] was rather wet and smelly. the netting has cured that problem, and has the added advantage of controlling the fruit flies too.) We actually have two bins. The above-mentioned bin is on "active" duty in the kitchen. The second bin - the "finishing" bin is kept out in the shed, and contains compost emptied from the active bin, mixed with regular potting soil, a little peat moss, and some sand. Since the compost emptied from the active bin always has some undecomposed material in it, it is put into the finishing bin (where it stays all winter) for refinement. Since it's impossible to remove all the eggs and infant worms, the finishing bin always contains a small maintenance crew who happily finish the job that the worms in the active bin started (the eggs seem to survive the winter). When the finishing bin is opened in the spring, the soil is ready to use. note: we keep the bin in the kitchen year-round. with the net on top, there is no problem with flies, and thw worms don't seem inclined to escape. the box is odorless if you don't overload it. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!munnari.oz.au!bruce.cs.monash.edu.au!merlin!mel.dit.csiro.au!its.csiro.au!dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU!metro!grivel!metz.une.edu.au!mwitchar Wed Feb 9 18:15:40 EST 1994 Article: 26306 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!munnari.oz.au!bruce.cs.monash.edu.au!merlin!mel.dit.csiro.au!its.csiro.au!dmssyd.syd.dms.CSIRO.AU!metro!grivel!metz.une.edu.au!mwitchar From: mwitchar@metz.une.edu.au (MARTIN WITCHARD) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Frost hardy ? Message-ID: <3218@grivel.une.edu.au> Date: 2 Feb 94 02:29:15 GMT Sender: usenet@grivel.une.edu.au Lines: 13 Nntp-Posting-Host: metz.une.edu.au I am gardening in Australia at an altitude of 1,000 m (3,000 ft), 780 mm rainfall, cool summers and cold winters. I'm interested in a few 'exotics' for the garden but am unsure as to whether they will survive the frost in winter (which can get down to -10). The plants are: Romneya (Californian Tree Poppy?) Clathra (Lily of the Valley Tree) Cedronella (a herb : Balm of Gilead) Lobelia x (cv. 'Complexion' : a speciosa type) I also have some US gardening books which use a zonal system, which I can't quite figure out - can somebody give a rough guesstimate on WHICH zone the climate I live in would be? Thanks in advance! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Wed Feb 9 18:15:41 EST 1994 Article: 26307 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seedling Problem From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4584.2552.0N41F3B8@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Sat, 5 Feb 94 09:34:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 54 Subject: Re: Seedling Problem D>In article <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> >jakirwi@starfleet.nswc.navy.mil (Jean Kirwin) writes: D>>I have experienced a repeated problem with starting plants from seeds. Most >>often, the sprouts reach a length of about an inch and a half and they begin >>to slant over. Eventually, most of them end up completely on their side and >>dead. What is happening and what can I do to prevent this? I'm sure I am >>not overwatering/underwatering. >Dave Platt dplatt@ntg.com replies: D>Sounds like "damping off", a fungus disease whose spores can be >transmitted via contaminated soil. D>The best prevention is to avoid the use of garden soil for starting >seeds. Use a steam-sterilized potting medium (commercial potting soil >works fine as long as it's steam-sterilized) Deleted lots more on sanitary practices for potting Dave's advice was pretty much the generally accepted theory and practice for dealing with fusarium and other soil borne diseases that cause damping off and root rot; until the past five years. Dr. Harry Hoitink has proven conclusively that fusarium can be suppressed, even treated, by using at least 25% *well cured* compost in the soil mix. It requires no additional pasteurization or sterilization and has the natural anti-biotics which inhibit the fungus. In fact, it is the extreme sterilization practices and attempts at maintaining sterile conditions that are being increasingly seen as creating the environment for fusarium development. This is because the natural antibiotics that could prevent the disease are also sterilized. Dave is correct in stating that adding garden soil, or even for that matter, uncured compost, will introduce fusarium to a planting mixture. But Dr. Hoitink's studies are so conclusive that fusarium suppression is now used as a measure of compost stability. Interestingly, his studies show that decomposed hardwood bark also has fungus suppression properties, which are thought to be properties of the bark in protecting the trees. It is not as noticeable in pine and other barks, unless composted to the point of stability. Mr Compost~~~ Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 5th - Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Wed Feb 9 18:15:43 EST 1994 Article: 26308 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Composting 101 From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4585.2552.0N41F3B9@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Sat, 5 Feb 94 09:34:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 93 As requested, here is my recipe for home composting. Mulching is always preferred over piling organic residues, and there is a place for passive compost piles as well. But for those who desire to make an active, hot, compost pile that is ready for curing in three to four weeks, here is my tried and true formula for cooking hot compost. Active composting is a BATCH process. It differs from passive piles that just sit there or continuous flow systems where stuff is periodically dumped on top of the material already in the bin. 1. PREPARE THE AREA: Avoid walls and fences that can rot and discolor. Stay within reach of the hose. Choose a spot away from drainage swales and roof overflow. Avoid low spots where water can stand or pond. Leave plenty of room to access with pitch fork and wheel barrow. The area should be from 6'x6' up to 12'x9'. 2. CHOOSE YOUR BIN. Small yards use enclosed plastic, preferably insulated bins. Large yards use larger open air designs without covers. Large doors are better than small ones. Three stage systems are best, but only one, maybe two bins are active at any given time. The three stages are stockpiling, active composting, and curing. Curing piles do not need bins. 3. STOCKPILING: Since active composting is a batch process, it requires a full bin of material and this usually requires stockpiling. Materials easy to store include leaves, wood mulch, pine needles and cones, old compost, and shredded paper. 4. INOCULATING: Active composting is helped by adding old compost or leaf mould as an inoculant. This can range from 10% up to 50% from the curing pile or the still-cooking, last batch. Avoid soil except as a last resort. Use bagged compost or manure if starting for the first time. Packaged inoculants do no harm, and may even help, but are not a substitute for old compost. 5.MIXING and 6. WATERING: Layer your various ingredients OUTSIDE THE BIN, watering each layer as you go. Think "Green and Brown". Add 10% bulky matter like wood chips to keep the pile loose to avoid matting. THEN fork the layers into the bin, mixing as you go, blending wet with dry, watering as necessary. Water like a seed bed, avoiding runoff. The mix should end up 50% moisture like a damp sponge. Now and during the 3 weeks of active composting is the time to add table scraps. Avoid adding lime, it can disturb the natural pH shift and delay decomposition. 7. AERATE: Like any other form of livestock, your "herd" of bacteria needs food, air, and water. You have added food with a balance of carbon and nitrogen, which is the green and brown. You just added water. Now the bacteria need air. Old compost theory suggests that you "turn the pile for aeration; recent studies show that a pile uses up its oxygen in as little as 1/2 hour after turning. Like a barbecue or a fireplace grate, a pile needs ventilation. This is provided through a passive aeration base. Some use brush, stalks, screen on boards, rocks, wood chips, flat aeration pipe, other mechanism to let air infiltrate at the base from outside. The air will rise up due to the convection, chimney effect, of warm air rising. With wood chips added, the pile will self aerate with an aeration grate without turning. Poking the pile from the top down to the base with a piece of rebar or 1/4" rod every 6" will break up mats and provide extra air channels. The pile will begin active composting within 48 hours and cook by itself. You can help the process by mixing at least once after a week, sort of like stirring the coals, adding moisture as necessary. When it is not frozen outside, I make a compost batch every 2 weeks, often using half cooked compost from two weeks previously to mix with the fresh grass clippings. Personally, I bag my grass because I like making and using compost, but letting the clippings lie is a fine way to avoid the effort of active composting. Follow these steps toward batch composting and you will see the pile heat and cook, giving off the steam of life as it decomposes. I think everyone should experience the pleasure of having a compost pile cook well at least *once* in their lives. Two last tips, *underwatering* is the largest single cause of slow composting. Piles in *standing* water is the number one cause of odors. Have fun! Mr Compost~~~ Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 5th - "Freedom of religion also means freedom from it." T. Jeff From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ao512 Wed Feb 9 18:15:44 EST 1994 Article: 26309 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ao512 From: ao512@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (JOAN HUNTLEY) Subject: Re: paste tomatoes in pittsburgh Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Sun, 6 Feb 1994 12:54:07 GMT Lines: 16 Re having trouble getting paste tomatoes to grow. I am not too sure what the soil is like or the actual location. I am an avid companion gardner so have tried lots of combinations of vegetables, herbs and flowers in an attempt to get the best and largest possible. My tomatoes are planted on the south side of my garden so then get the morning sun, but in the beds at the end, I plant taller plants (like pole beans or peas) so that my tomatoes are partially protected from the hot afternoon sun. In addition, I plant sweet basil, parsley and mariegolds in among the plants and peas all along the outer border of the bed (novella are good because they are free standing). I put nothing in the soil other than that from my compost pile. I have tried various locations in the garden but none of the plants did very well so I return to the same series of three bed (all the beds are raise and are 4' wide and range from 8 to 14' in lenght). From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ysu.edu!yfn.ysu.edu!ak163 Wed Feb 9 18:15:46 EST 1994 Article: 26310 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ysu.edu!yfn.ysu.edu!ak163 From: ak163@yfn.ysu.edu (Sharon Flora) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pressure Treated Lumb Date: 6 Feb 1994 14:41:43 GMT Organization: Youngstown State/Youngstown Free-Net Lines: 18 Message-ID: <2j2vj7$jc@news.ysu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: yfn.ysu.edu So how do you know if wood is pressure treated or not? I went to a lumber company asked for lumber to make a raised garden,(like in the Square Foot Garden) and they gave me lumber. I took it home, hammered it together, mixed my soil, planted my seeds and waited. I got a few plants, but nothing bore veg/fruit. I attributed it to our cold spring/summer. Could they have given me pressure treated lumber and the chemicals made no veggies? If that is the case, and this year I go and buy un-pressure-treated lumber to make another box garden, can I use the soil that was in the previous box, or no because the chemicals are now thru the soil? Thanks for listening. Sharon -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!news.gsfc.nasa.gov!news!garlow Wed Feb 9 18:15:47 EST 1994 Article: 26311 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!news.gsfc.nasa.gov!news!garlow From: garlow@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov (Joanne Garlow) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sterilizing Compost Date: 06 Feb 1994 14:41:31 GMT Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt, MD Lines: 38 Message-ID: References: <36.4401.2552.0N41F220@gcbb.granite.mn.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In-reply-to: ajh@diamond.guinness's message of 03 Feb 1994 00:56:42 GMT In article ajh@diamond.guinness (Andrew Huang) writes: I've had the experience of putting my lunch into the microwave at school, letting it run for 3-5 mins and then noticing that there were ants running around inside the oven. And my lunch was quite hot thank you. I used to kill cockroaches by putting them into the microwave - they'd run around for a few seconds and then keel over - which makes me question the idea that cockroaches will survive a nuclear holocaust. If you think I am sadistic, you have never lived in a roach-infested apartment. OB-recipe: Oatmeal Molasses Bread (made in a Zojirushi Bread Machine) 1 1/8 cups water 3/16 cups honey 2 T molasses 1 tsp salt 1 1/2 T butter 1 1/2 cups wheat flour 1 1/2 cups bread flour 2 T wheat germ 1 cup oats (old fashioned) 2 tsp yeast 1 T gluten (recommended) Dump it all in and push start (Don't you love bread machines?) -- ###################################################################### # | There are two things I am sure of # # Joanne Hartman Garlow | 1. There is a God # # | 2. I'm not Her # # garlow@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov | from the movie "Rudy" # ###################################################################### From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!news.gsfc.nasa.gov!news!garlow Wed Feb 9 18:15:49 EST 1994 Article: 26312 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!news.gsfc.nasa.gov!news!garlow From: garlow@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov (Joanne Garlow) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sterilizing Compost Date: 06 Feb 1994 14:43:35 GMT Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt, MD Lines: 10 Message-ID: References: <36.4401.2552.0N41F220@gcbb.granite.mn.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In-reply-to: ajh@diamond.guinness's message of 03 Feb 1994 00:56:42 GMT I just realized that I posted a recipe to rec.gardens - sorry I have been reading rec.food.recipes for too long. -- ###################################################################### # | There are two things I am sure of # # Joanne Hartman Garlow | 1. There is a God # # | 2. I'm not Her # # garlow@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov | from the movie "Rudy" # ###################################################################### From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!k4pql!hhoyt Wed Feb 9 18:15:50 EST 1994 Article: 26313 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!k4pql!hhoyt From: hhoyt@k4pql.apex.nc.us (Howard Hoyt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Best Value Plants Message-ID: Date: Sun, 06 Feb 94 13:23:19 GMT Organization: Apex, North Carolina Lines: 43 I've probably come into the discussion late, but I've been reading with interest the comments on various mail order catalogs for plants. Perhaps the point has been made in the past, but I feel that generally, the best value for ornamental plants is from some of the many small specialty mail order nurseries- the ones that charge for their catalogs. The small fee is usually worth the savings one gets on the cost of the plants. In addition, generally the plants are much more substantial and/or healthy, and there is a much better selection of species and cultivars. Many of these catalogs double as reference guides as well, to be kept and refered to for valuable information. And the owners are plantspeople willing to share their knowledge- not just plant brokers or large uncaring companies. I'm not saying that all large companies are no good- there are many excellent companies like Parks/Wayside, White Flower Farm, etc. But sometime compare the prices and sizes on the same plants from these and from some of the smaller mail order nurseries like Canyon Creek, Plant Delights, Heronswood, Niche Gardens, Camellia Forest, Siskiyou, Yucca-Do, Holbrook Farm, Oakes Daylilies, Forest Farm- just to name a few. Wayside is great for the glossy photos, but more often than not, I shop around and do my ordering from the smaller places. lynn hoyt From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Wed Feb 9 18:15:51 EST 1994 Article: 26314 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: catalogs Message-ID: Date: Sun, 06 Feb 94 09:52:08 EST Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 10 Lynn Hoyt is correct, in my experience, in dealing with mail order companies. The small specialty outfits in general are enthusiasts who started out as hobbyists and then found that their hobby grew. Since they are like many of us, we can find a sympathetic ear, a good variety, and good prices if we just eschew the mass mailers. Garry Williams gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US g.williams42@genie.geis.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Wed Feb 9 18:15:52 EST 1994 Article: 26315 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HydroGel? Message-ID: <1994Feb6.103912.22440@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 6 Feb 94 10:39:12 -0600 References: <2iru9n$p0c@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb4.214552.20686@tigger.jvnc.net> <1994Feb4.221936.22849@news.media.mit.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 28 In article <1994Feb4.221936.22849@news.media.mit.edu>, griscom@media.mit.edu (Dan Griscom) writes: > > Last summer I had a strawberry jar (about 2' tall, with about 2 > gallons of dirt and nine holes in the side.) It didn't do well, mainly > because it required watering every day just to keep it from going bone > dry. A couple of months ago I read a note here that mentioned > something called "HydroGel" (I think.) It was granular: you mixed it > in your soil and watered, and the granules swelled up and absorbed the > water, releasing it as necessary. Voila! less watering required. > Sounds like just the thing for my (now petrified) strawberry jar. > Just ordered 3 lbs of Musser Forests' "wasser gel" for $23 + shipping; I think the 4 oz package was $5. This was designed to be made into a slurry and tree seedling roots dipped into it for transplanting-- makes about 20 gallons of slurry per pound. (relax, I'm not reforesting Iowa... just using it for some lab work where we need to do some bioassays of seedling growth... this stuff can be washed so we can easily measure surface areas.) I don't have the address handy, but Musser Forests is in Indiana, PA, and they have an 800 number. BTW, a colleague who ordered conifer seedlings from them last year for a farm windbreak said that they were quite the nicest he'd ever gotten by mail order (and he's planted thousands of trees). Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!morrow.stanford.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:15:53 EST 1994 Article: 26316 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!morrow.stanford.edu!not-for-mail From: GC.SUL@forsythe.stanford.edu (Sullys Maze) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Central calif natives Date: 6 Feb 1994 10:42:47 -0800 Organization: Stanford University Lines: 66 Sender: news@morrow.stanford.edu Message-ID: <2j3dn7$84m@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: morrow.stanford.edu : nathan@seldon.foundation.tricon.com (Number 6) writes: Subject: Nonsucculent drought tolerant plants how do they do it? This may be somewhat technical, but I am interested in any information concerning nonsucculent drought tolerant plants and their methods of survival. I have quite a few native plants that have come up recently due to the nice rains we've gotten (still below normal by quite a bit, but enough to trigger growth for the first time in our new home) here in Central California. I've seen *many* unidentified plants (not weeds, thankfully!) come up in my garden and I don't want to destroy them (I carefully move them to my "native plant area", which is really my "whatever I find in the garden I don't know what it is but want to see what it becomes" area! :) Several succulents have come up small iceplant like critters. Several taprooted "weeds" have come up, but they look sufficiently unlike weeds that I kept them (and do have pretty flowers). And, several very pretty orange/yellow blooming plants with blade type leaves have come up (or have come back to life). I am most interested in the orange/yellow plants they have been in the garden for many years (from what neighbors tell me, I've only owned the place 6 months). They have apparently survived the 6 year drought. (The previous owners *never* watered). But they are not succulent. They form clumps and seem to divide best that way, though they do natively reseed themselves and are perennials. So basically, how can a nonsucculent survive dry conditions? I know some plants have oils in them to help prevent moisture loss. What are some of the other strategies? (Some plants have tremendous root structures, but the little yellow/orange things do not). I noticed the yellow/orange plants were kind of dingy and not noticable until they exploded after the first rains. Any pointers would be helpful. They are truly beautiful plants and will have a permanent home in my landscaping now that I've seen them flower. (And how they survive with no water or rain for 5 months!) Let me note one more thing I live in Western Gardens zone 16 85% influenced by the ocean, 15% inland. We get *a lot* of fog in the summer, but it's not tremendously wet. I don't think these little plants could grab anything by having fog drip off their leaves. *********************************************************************** Nathan D. Lane, VP Triicon Systems. Lompoc, CA (805) 7331849 NaN != 6, 6 == 1. I am not a number, I am a free list! I'm a programmer my computers are more valuable than my cars. ---------------------- I think it's GREAT you are interested in the natives. I also suggest in the spring you check out Santa Barbara Botanic gardens. They can probably indentify some of your plants, and have plant sales on natives from your area. Also, if you can get up to Santa Margarita area there is a GREAT native nursery called Las Pilitas. Bert grows EVERYTHING! He is a great resource person. Also, I think there is a pretty big chapter of CNPS (Calif Native Plant Society) in the SLO area-probably in your area too. Karen From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!netcomsv!pcgfx!lee.paulsen Wed Feb 9 18:15:54 EST 1994 Article: 26317 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mulching roses From: lee.paulsen@pcgfx.com (Lee Paulsen) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!netcomsv!pcgfx!lee.paulsen Message-ID: Date: Sun, 6 Feb 94 10:00:00 -0800 Organization: The PC GFX Exchange * San Francisco, CA * 415-337-5416 Lines: 8 I'm a novice gardener with a small patio garden. I have grown fond of roses over the last couple of years. I am wondering if I should be mulching them? What is good to use for this? When should I put the mulch down and how often should it be changed? I live near San Francisco where the winters are mild and the roses are leafing out already and where those with sunny yards in the winter have blooms year round. Thank you. * RM 1.3 * From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:15:55 EST 1994 Article: 26318 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: LIZSZELIGA@delphi.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Leach Field Garden Date: Sun, 6 Feb 94 18:06:27 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 12 Message-ID: <19940206.18062760.lizszeliga@delphi.com> References: <36.4261.2552.0N41F0CF@gcbb.granite.mn.org> <1327@smith.CHI.IL.US> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos3a.delphi.com X-To: L.A.Z. Smith Hi, This is my first post to this newsgroup. I've been finding everyone's questions and comments very helpful. Now, for a question of my own. I, too, am planning to put in a veggie and cutting garden in an area near a leech field. How do I determine the boundries of the leach field? I know the location of the septic tank, and I know w hich direction the leach field is in , but I have no idea what the dimensions of the field are. Thanks for any help. Liz Szeliga From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Wed Feb 9 18:15:56 EST 1994 Article: 26319 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mulching roses Date: 7 Feb 1994 00:42:58 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 31 Message-ID: <2j42qi$259@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: kanga.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, lee.paulsen@pcgfx.com (Lee Paulsen) says: >I'm a novice gardener with a small patio garden. I have grown fond of >roses over the last couple of years. I am wondering if I should be >mulching them? What is good to use for this? When should I put the mulch >down and how often should it be changed? I live near San Francisco where >the winters are mild and the roses are leafing out already and where those >with sunny yards in the winter have blooms year round. Thank you. > Mulching helps retain moisture and keeps down weeds. The best material for doing the latter is the new non-woven black garden cloth. It's rather ugly, but you can cover it with pebbles or pine or cedar chips. Pine bark, shredded newspapers, peat moss--they all can be used, but none is as durable as the horticultural cloth. Once you've got the mulch in place--do it when you plant the bushes--just add to the degradable mulches as they break down, or you can just keep the pebbles neat on top of the cloth. Roses like moist but not soggy soil, and weeds rob nutrients, so mulching is a good idea. Good luck J. Del Col ( in central WV where the ground is frozen and spring is a LONG way off) -- Jeff Del Col * "If you listen to music by Beethoven a lot, A-B College * you will never become stupid--unless you already Philippi, WV * are, in which case there's still no harm in it." * -----Uncle Borgel---(AKA Pinkwater) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!network.ucsd.edu!sdcc12!sdcc3!jhecht Wed Feb 9 18:15:57 EST 1994 Article: 26320 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!network.ucsd.edu!sdcc12!sdcc3!jhecht From: jhecht@sdcc3.ucsd.edu (Jonathan Hecht) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: paste tomatoes in pittsburgh Message-ID: <60788@sdcc12.ucsd.edu> Date: 7 Feb 94 01:08:17 GMT References: <5@oeonline.UUCP> Sender: news@sdcc12.ucsd.edu Lines: 3 Nntp-Posting-Host: sdcc3.ucsd.edu I have had problems with blossom end rot last season growing tomatoes in pots. Applying a few handfuls of gypsum to the top of the soil every 2-3 weeks seemed to help. Gypsum is a good source of calcium, which is the mineral thought to be necessary to prevent BER. Additionally, it is organic. I am using the Sunset Vegetable gardening book as my source. Hope this helps. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth Wed Feb 9 18:15:58 EST 1994 Article: 26321 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!das-news.harvard.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth From: ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) Subject: Re: HydroGel? Message-ID: Sender: news@cs.cmu.edu (Usenet News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: organ.music.cs.cmu.edu Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon References: <1994Feb4.214552.20686@tigger.jvnc.net> <1994Feb4.221936.22849@news.media.mit.edu> <1994Feb6.103912.22440@cobra.uni.edu> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 02:41:38 GMT Lines: 15 I put some Hydro-gel (the brand name was "Everfresh" or something, actually) in my Christmas tree stand this year. They promised on the package that I would only have to water the tree after six weeks. Well, I watered almost every day. So I have no idea what the hell they were talking about back at the lab. Also, HOW DOES THIS STUFF WORK? I know it is supposed to release the water from the little gel-blobs "as needed," but why should we think that the plants in this stuff need the water any less frequently? The evaporation from the soil in contact with the pot should be the same, drawing water away from the center and dehydrating it at the same rate. I don't understand the scientific principles at work here. Ruth Sample From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!tellab5!mcdchg!marcal!pucc.bitnet!diane Wed Feb 9 18:16:03 EST 1994 Article: 26322 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!laidbak!tellab5!mcdchg!marcal!pucc.bitnet!diane From: diane@marcal.uucp (Diane Veeneman) Subject: Re: Flowering Jade Plant Message-ID: <1994Feb4.225747.16704@marcal.uucp> Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 22:57:47 GMT References: Organization: Marcal Systems Corporation Lines: 17 knickman@plains.NoDak.edu (Elena Knickman) writes: >I've seen jade plants that flower, they are quite exquisite. Someone >posted a note saying that jade plants typically flower at the age of 10 or >11 years. Mine's a bit young yet, but when the time comes, is there >anything special I can do to encourage it to bloom, watering, temperature, >hours of sunlight, etc.? The lushest jade plants I've seen are in the Los Angeles area-one on the beach (6 foot tall bush) and one outside my in-law's townhome. When I bought a large potted one from a local (Illinois) greenhouse, the sales- person said to KEEP it blooming, don't overwater, give it lots of sunlight. A friend of mine here keeps hers in front of a southern sliding glass door and it blooms every summer (always leaves it inside so it has a consistant environment. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!rochester!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth Wed Feb 9 18:16:06 EST 1994 Article: 26323 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!rochester!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth From: ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) Subject: Sowbugs, AKA pillbugs Message-ID: Sender: news@cs.cmu.edu (Usenet News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: organ.music.cs.cmu.edu Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 02:54:23 GMT Lines: 23 My garden contains a veritable plethora of pillbugs. You know, those little crustaceanous bugs in the garden that roll themselves up when you touch them? I was wondering if anyone knows if these bugs are harmful, or beneficial, or neutral. OG recently ran a reply to a letter (last month, I think) in which they claimed that these pests are not as pesty as people think; that they eat decaying matter, and that if you really hate them, get some chickens. Someone please confirm or disconfirm this claim. I recently applied some Fruit Trees Alive! to my potted fig trees. The major result was that the trees immediately set fruit. The secondary result is that I cannot find any sowbugs in those pots. (They are in my basement under a HPS lamp.) I know that there is a considerable quantity of boron in this fertilizer mix, since it is specially formulated for fruit trees. Q: Do sowbugs hate boron? What would happen if I have a low does of boron to my whole garden? Please reply. Thanks. Ruth Sample From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!cattell.psych.upenn.edu!marvit Wed Feb 9 18:16:07 EST 1994 Article: 26324 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!rutgers!netnews.upenn.edu!cattell.psych.upenn.edu!marvit From: marvit@cattell.psych.upenn.edu (Peter Marvit) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: bamboo in containers Message-ID: Date: 7 Feb 94 03:14:06 GMT References: Organization: Psychology Dept, U. Pennsylvania Lines: 8 NNTP-Posting-Host: cattell.psych.upenn.edu In-reply-to: aj796@FreeNet.Carleton.CA's message of Fri, 4 Feb 1994 02:37:58 GMT I planted some (real, yellow-groove) bamboo in a whiskey barrel last Fall. It is now a solid tub of ice, after the recent freezing spell. I'll let you know how it survives come spring; the leaves currently all look terrible... : Peter Marvit , Psychology Dept, Univ. of Penn : : 3815 Walnut St., Philadelphia, PA 19104 w:215/898-6274 fax:215/898-7301 : From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:16:08 EST 1994 Article: 26325 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: KATEW@delphi.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Transplanting people... Date: Sun, 6 Feb 94 23:47:08 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 12 Message-ID: <19940206.23470855.katew@delphi.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com Yikes! I'm moving next month from Portland to Athens, Georgia; it's not a zone change, funnily enough, but it WILL be a culture and climate shock for all concerned. My question: for years, I've relied on Sunset magazine and their _Western Garden Book_ for garden tips and advice. Is there a comparable magazine and book for the South? Any tips for the safe and fruitful transplanting of Oregonians will be gladly noted (the Oregonian in question lived in Chicago for four years but never had dirt to call my own, so that's not a relevant transplant experience). Kate From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Wed Feb 9 18:16:10 EST 1994 Article: 26326 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Composting Newspaper? From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4678.2552.0N41F4EE@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Sun, 6 Feb 94 17:47:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 84 ---------------------------------------- >From: Susan F. asks: S>My town doesn't recycle newspapers, so I've accumulated a huge pile >of them. I have been reluctant to put them in the compost pile >because I'm worried about the metals in the ink. Is this worth >worrying about? Also both the New York Times and the local paper have >started using colored inks in some of the sections. Can these pages >be composted? How about the glossy inserts? Hi Susan, The concern about inks in newsprint is a legitimate one, and I have looked into it extensively. Years ago when we had lead printing plates, the lead levels in newsprint were very high, and it was dangerous to add newspaper to the compost pile or the soil. In the past fifteen years, lead printing plates have been banned and lead is now at background levels. In Europe, they have not universally banned lead printing plates and they are still a problem in the compost there. As far as the other metals, only cadmium which is used in yellow ink is showing up as a concern. But from every test I have seen, the mix of paper dilutes the cadmium levels to so low that they are nearly at background levels. Cadmium is a concern in leafy vegetables such as lettuce, spinach and kale. The EPA has reduced the level of acceptable cadmium in sewage sludge from 90 parts per million PPM to around 30, which is near the background level. Cadmium is mostly a concern for 2 pack per day cigarette smokers who intake it through natural levels in the tobacco leaves. If you are concerned, which I am not, avoid the colored sections. The glossy nature of magazines is from clay. It is merged with the paper as much as 20%. Clay is, of course, an inert and safe ingredient. The inks which are hydrocarbon based may be a concern to the organic purist, but are not in levels which harm the soil, plant or groundwater. They are fully volatilized by the composting or decomposition process. So for my general advice, paper and magazines printed in the United States and Canada are perfectly safe to use in the garden and are a wonderful source of carbon in the compost pile. The mass balance studies I have conducted show that using newsprint for soil amending when the trees are grown in renewable second or third growth forests is much more environmentally acceptable than recycling newsprint from the standpoint of energy consumption, pollution, and promoting reforestation Paper can be as easy or as difficult to decompose as you make it. After all, is is just funny looking tree pulp. I have been able to decompose paper without shredding just by leaving it out as a mulch. There were some notes months ago about gardeners who left the full paper out on pathways, holding it down with soil. There are many who just soak the paper and let redworms eat it. As you might be finding out, it is difficult to shred. I have seen bundles of newsprint clog even the toughest shredders and hammermills. Most paper shredders take only a dozen or so sheets at a time. The lawn mower technique also fails on newspaper. I soak my paper and let it turn into a paper mache~ pulp that I mix in with the raw ingredients of the next compost pile. Of course it decomposes better when it is mixed with green material like grass clippings or table scraps. Adding fish emulsion or various meals from the feed dealer can also add N. Without mixing, paper can mat up worse than grass clippings. You would be surprised how soft the paper can get once it is soaked for a week or more. A problem arises when some of the paper is allowed to dry. Then it hardens up and stops decomposing. You may want to look into earthworm cultivation. If you can get the worms to do the work, why break your back or bank? S>P.S. Thanks for posting all the useful information. I've had two >compost bins for a while (one cooking, one done). Since I've been >reading -- and heeding -- your advice, the cooking bin has cooked much >faster, and I have a don't have large undigested lumps anymore. >Thanks! Glad to hear it. Sounds like another member of the increasing ranks of composting bio-converts! Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 6th - Frisbyterian: when you die, your soul goes up on the roof From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utzoo!telly!moore!eastern!botanika Wed Feb 9 18:16:12 EST 1994 Article: 26327 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utzoo!telly!moore!eastern!botanika From: botanika@eastern.eastern.com (botanika) Subject: Re: Bamboos Organization: Public Affairs Services, Toronto CAN Date: Sun, 6 Feb 1994 19:09:22 GMT Message-ID: Sender: bbs@eastern.com Lines: 7 Another excellent source for bamboos is Tradewinds Bamboo Nursery 28446 Hunter Creek Loop Gold Beach, Oregon 97444 Their catalog is $2 They have over 60 varieties of bamboo including seedlings! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!emory!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:16:14 EST 1994 Article: 26328 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!emory!not-for-mail From: vicki@mathcs.emory.edu (Vicki Powers) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Composting Newspaper? Date: 7 Feb 1994 07:56:33 -0500 Organization: Emory University, Dept of Math and CS Lines: 29 Message-ID: <2j5dq1INNa9g@emory.mathcs.emory.edu> References: <36.4678.2552.0N41F4EE@gcbb.granite.mn.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: emory.mathcs.emory.edu In article <36.4678.2552.0N41F4EE@gcbb.granite.mn.org>, jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) writes: (info about paper composting deleted) > As you might be finding out, it is difficult to shred. I have seen > bundles of newsprint clog even the toughest shredders and hammermills. > Most paper shredders take only a dozen or so sheets at a time. The lawn > mower technique also fails on newspaper. I soak my paper and let it turn > into a paper mache~ pulp that I mix in with the raw ingredients of the > next compost pile. Of course it decomposes better when it is mixed with > green material like grass clippings or table scraps. Adding fish > emulsion or various meals from the feed dealer can also add N. This brings up my question -- what about cardboard cereal boxes and similar things, can they be added to the compost pile? Does anyone in the U.S. use leaded ink these days? What about tissues? Any danger of spreading disease? Also, could you give us more details about the soaking method. I've been adding cardboard tubes and paper towels to my compost and just shredding them a bit. The soaking method sounds better. Vicki -- Vicki Powers | When a student reads in a math book that there are no Emory University | absolutes, suddenly every value he's been taught is Dept of Math and CS | destroyed. And the next thing you know, the student Atlanta, GA 30322 | turns to crime and drugs. - Mel Gabler From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usc!sdd.hp.com!think.com!hsdndev!dartvax.dartmouth.edu!flashmag!waltervj Wed Feb 9 18:16:16 EST 1994 Article: 26329 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usc!sdd.hp.com!think.com!hsdndev!dartvax.dartmouth.edu!flashmag!waltervj From: waltervj@flashmag.com (Walter Vose Jeffries) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gardening magazines (was: Re: OG email update) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 94 10:14:05 EST Organization: Flash Magazine - BlackLightning Publishing, Inc. Message-ID: Reply-To: waltervj@flashmag.com X-Mailer: UUCP/Connect - Macintosh Release: 1.6v4 Lines: 14 In article (rec.gardens), bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) writes: > >> |> I was subscribed to Horticulture and enjoyed the magazine, but I > >> |> found the initial "pay up deadbeat" letter so offensive that I won't > >> |> renew my subscription. I hadn't even received the first magazine (in > >> |> a "Bill me Later" offer) before the first obnoxious letter arrived. > >> |> Then a "Pay up to preserve your credit rating" letter enclosed in the > >> |> very first magazine! I had a similar experience with Business Week Magazine. I have written them twice, called once and am now just ignoring their nasty letters. They offered a free trial issue and I tried it but found I didn't like it so I canceled. If they really wanted subscribers then they shouldn't send such nasty letters. A real turn off. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!destroyer!news.itd.umich.edu!lunetta Wed Feb 9 18:16:17 EST 1994 Article: 26330 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!destroyer!news.itd.umich.edu!lunetta From: lunetta@umich.edu (Kathryn Lunetta) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: mini tillers Date: 7 Feb 1994 14:26:57 GMT Organization: University of Michigan - Biostatistics Lines: 11 Sender: lunetta@med.umich.edu (Kathryn Lunetta) Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j5j3h$1aa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: fisher.hgp.med.umich.edu Originator: lunetta@fisher.hgp.med.umich.edu I'm considering buying a mini tiller. I would use it in my fairly-small garden, and to help expand the garden. We have very heavy clay soil. The two brands I've read the most about are Mantis and Troy. I'd appreciate any comments on my main questions: 1) can these mini tillers do all their promoters say they can? 2) will they do any good in clay soil? 3) is one clearly better than the other? 4) are there other brands I should consider? Please send comments to my e-mail address: lunetta@umich.edu Thanks! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!jmcnult Wed Feb 9 18:16:18 EST 1994 Article: 26331 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!jmcnult From: jmcnult@orion.it.luc.edu (John A. Mcnulty) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sweetbriar Date: 7 Feb 1994 14:56:41 GMT Organization: Loyola University of Chicago Lines: 26 Message-ID: <2j5kr9$nem@apollo.it.luc.edu> References: <3FEB94.16463497@shrsys.hslc.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: orion.it.luc.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] carlson@shrsys.hslc.org wrote: : Can anyone provide me with a source in the US for a rose called : Sweetbriar? It is also known as Eglantine. Karen: As an alumna of Sweet Briar College, I tracked down a source of eglantine. I thought it would be more interesting if they sold sweetbriar roses and boxwoods as a fundraising project instead of Dutch Bulbs and Amaryllis like the usually do. I got a polite thanks for the idea but no thanks. The sweetbriar rose is embossed on our class rings (part of the college's logo). Our school colours are pink and green! Roses of Yesterday and Today, Inc. 802 Brown's Valley Road They are very persnickety Watsonville, Ca. USA 95076 about receiving a $3.00 fee 408-724-3537 for their catalogue and claim Fax 408-724-1408 they don't "share" their mail list. Plants sent to most states are $6 each. This is all from a 1991 catalogue and I never got around to ordering anything, so I don't know about their service or quality. By the way, where do you live? It is supposed to be one of the hardiest of roses. Patty, not John From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ee.und.ac.za!csir.co.za!hippo.ru.ac.za!caesar.wits.ac.za!Witsvma.wits.ac.za!084NEIL Wed Feb 9 18:16:19 EST 1994 Article: 26332 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ee.und.ac.za!csir.co.za!hippo.ru.ac.za!caesar.wits.ac.za!Witsvma.wits.ac.za!084NEIL From: 084NEIL@Witsvma.wits.ac.za Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: American cedar Date: Mon, 07 Feb 94 17:21:05 RSA Organization: Wits University Lines: 20 Message-ID: <16F56F437.084NEIL@Witsvma.wits.ac.za> NNTP-Posting-Host: witsvma.wits.ac.za Hi, Does anyone know what the substance is in American Cedar that gives it its unique smell? I have a sample of it and am trying to find a South African tree that has a similar smell. Failing that I'd like to produce it synthetically. I have heard that pieces of American Cedar repel insects in much the same way as napthalene moth ball do. Is this so? Please mail your replies directly to me (Internet: 084neil@witsvma.wits.ac.za) Thanks, Neil Saffer Dept Zoology, University of the Witwatersrand, Johannesburg Sunny South Africa \ / -- 0 -- / \ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!destroyer!jobone!ed8200!pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com!millerb Wed Feb 9 18:16:20 EST 1994 Article: 26333 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!destroyer!jobone!ed8200!pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com!millerb From: millerb@pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com (Bryan Miller) Subject: Re: Gardening magazines (was: Re: OG email update) Message-ID: <1994Feb7.151220.16637@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Sender: news@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com Organization: Ford Motor Co., Powertrain Electronics X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7] References: Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 15:12:20 GMT Lines: 61 Ebeth Jones appears to have written on Wed, 2 Feb 1994 14:39:14 GMT: > In article <1994Jan31.191728.22138@cobra.uni.edu> klier@cobra.uni.edu writes: > >In article , ssgm@leia.nrl.navy.mil (Tom Dugan) writes: > >> In article <2ijl0pINNisr@hatteras.cs.unc.edu>, kupstas@cs.unc.edu (Eileen Kupstas) writes: > >> |> > >> |> I was subscribed to Horticulture and enjoyed the magazine, but I > >> |> found the initial "pay up deadbeat" letter so offensive that I won't > >> |> renew my subscription. I hadn't even received the first magazine (in > >> |> a "Bill me Later" offer) before the first obnoxious letter arrived. > >> |> Then a "Pay up to preserve your credit rating" letter enclosed in the > >> |> very first magazine! > >> |> Is this typical? Was I marked a deadbeat based on my zip code > >> |> or something? No other magazine has done this (yet... I'm trying Fine > >> |> Gardening this year.. no nasty note so far). The company has been > >> |> put very low on my list of pleasant companies... > >> > >> Jeepers! I certainly didn't have that experience. It's fairly easy to get my > >> back up with that sort of behavior. Sorry you had that experience. Anybody > >> else have this sort of thing happen? > >\\ > > > >Yup. I never did get an issue... but did get several (ahem!) interesting > >letters which only stopped when I threatened to file for a restraining > >order for harrassment. > >> > > > >Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI > > > > Yikes! And I just sent in the little card that says they'll send > you one free issue and if you like it they'll start a subscription > and bill you! Oh no............. > > > Ebeth > > -- > Elizabeth Jones E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil > > "A home without a cat, and a well-fed, well-petted, and properly revered cat, > may be a perfect home, *perhaps*, but how can it prove its title?" Mark Twain I wouldn't worry too much. I've been receiving Horticulture for years and have never had any problems. I even forgot to pay my bill once when I was in Italy. Just got the bland vanilla pudding 'Hope you'll stay on...' type of grovel. Mother Earth did try the pay-up-or-else scam on the ole try-two-issues-on-us-and-decide trick. I had to take the same approach as Kay. So. It looks like we're back to square one. What other mags besides OG (ok ok, and Horticulture) are good alternatives? -- Bryan Miller ----------------------------------------------------------------- "As far as the laws of mathematics refer to reality, they are not certain; and as far as they are certain, they do not refer to reality" Albert Einstein <<< I don't speak for Ford, nor they for me... >>> From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson Wed Feb 9 18:16:21 EST 1994 Article: 26334 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!usc!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson From: carlson@shrsys.hslc.org Subject: RE: Sweetbriar Message-ID: <7FEB94.16043065@shrsys.hslc.org> Sender: news@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER References: <3FEB94.16463497@shrsys.hslc.org> <2j5kr9$nem@apollo.it.luc.edu> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 21:04:30 GMT Lines: 14 Patty: I live in south-central Pennsylvania, where normally winters aren't too bad, but January 1994 goes down in the record books for coldest January ever. I'm very concerned about my roses, which include hybrid teas, floribundas, and several David Austin roses. I mulched them well in the fall, but they've had no protection from the sub-zero air and windchill temperatures last month. Does anyone out there have any experience with roses in this type of unusual weather situation? Thanks, and eagerly waiting for Spring! Karen From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ctc.com!news.cs.umb.edu!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones Wed Feb 9 18:16:22 EST 1994 Article: 26335 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ctc.com!news.cs.umb.edu!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones From: bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Message-ID: X-Disclaimer: Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of NVL Sender: usenet@nvl.army.mil Nntp-Posting-Host: 140.183.12.36 Reply-To: bajones@nvl.army.mil Organization: Night Vision Labs, Ft Belvoir, VA References: <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> <1994Feb4.124934.21342@es.dupont.com> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 14:23:17 GMT Lines: 26 In article <1994Feb4.124934.21342@es.dupont.com> molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com writes: stuff deleted > > >You have a good point there. Why would I think that if my nieghbors >have no concern with what their animals are doing to my yard and let >them run unsupervised they would certainly not be concerned about >letting their toddlers run the neighborhood unsupervised. > >There is only one problem with that. There aren't any toddlers that >live close to me. > > I have an even better idea - why don't *YOU* drink a nice bowl of anti-freeze? Then you won't have to worry about those bad ol' puddy tats any more. -- Elizabeth Jones E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil "A home without a cat, and a well-fed, well-petted, and properly revered cat, may be a perfect home, *perhaps*, but how can it prove its title?" Mark Twain From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!news.gsfc.nasa.gov!aol3!manizade Wed Feb 9 18:16:23 EST 1994 Article: 26336 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!news.gsfc.nasa.gov!aol3!manizade From: manizade@aol3.wff.nasa.gov (Serdar Manizade 1025) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: mini tillers Date: 7 Feb 1994 16:30:50 GMT Organization: AOL Lines: 29 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j5qbq$79i@skates.gsfc.nasa.gov> References: <2j5j3h$1aa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: aol3.wff.nasa.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In article <2j5j3h$1aa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>, lunetta@umich.edu (Kathryn Lunetta) writes: |> |> I'm considering buying a mini tiller. ... I'd appreciate any comments... |> Please send comments to my e-mail address: lunetta@umich.edu I, too, am planning on buying a tiller and am looking for input. I have been looking through the FAQs and the postings, but have seen nothing pertaining to the issue. I would like to see some discussion of the experiences people have had with the various suppliers. Kathryn, please share your findings with the rest of us (or at least with me). The size of the garden I am planning is in the 1400sq ft ballpark. The marketing literature from Troy-bilt makes the company and the machine look very appealing. Mantis looks good, but the machines look a little small for what I want. I have a small brochure from BCS America, Inc., but need more info. I don't have any info on any other tiller companies. Is Gravely still in business? I also need to buy a lawn mower. Some companies make a flexible machine which can drive a mower attachment or a tiller attachment. Any info on these? Thanks for any input. -- Serdar S. Manizade Airborne Oceanographic Lidar Project NASA/GSFC/Wallops Flight Facility, Wallops Island, VA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ctc.com!news.cs.umb.edu!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones Wed Feb 9 18:16:24 EST 1994 Article: 26337 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ctc.com!news.cs.umb.edu!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones From: bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Message-ID: X-Disclaimer: Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of NVL Sender: usenet@nvl.army.mil Nntp-Posting-Host: 140.183.12.36 Reply-To: bajones@nvl.army.mil Organization: Night Vision Labs, Ft Belvoir, VA References: <2imd2b$h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb3.024202.22960@ccc.amdahl.com> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 14:19:52 GMT Lines: 28 In article <1994Feb3.024202.22960@ccc.amdahl.com> bws20@mfg.amdahl.com writes: > >In article h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU, pkr@leland.Stanford.EDU (Paula Karen Rickert) writes: >> How about a few well-aimed hits with a squirt gun? >> > >Ok, I'll give you my address. You can station yourself in my yard 24 hours/day, >7days/week. I will supply you with a squirt gun. Thanks for the offer. > >bw >--- > bws20@mfg.amdahl.com Dogs, guns, motorcycles, > DoD# 1bfd EGFC#12 and the love of A Good Woman; > '82 Yamaha Seca XJ650R, nameless what more is there? > '90 Bouviers des Flandres, Raleigh & Que > You could always move into a nice highrise apartment with a balcony for your gardening needs. No cats (unless one drops in from above) and think of all the total control over nature you can exert on that balcony! -- Elizabeth Jones E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil "A home without a cat, and a well-fed, well-petted, and properly revered cat, may be a perfect home, *perhaps*, but how can it prove its title?" Mark Twain From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ctc.com!news.cs.umb.edu!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones Wed Feb 9 18:16:25 EST 1994 Article: 26338 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ctc.com!news.cs.umb.edu!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones From: bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Message-ID: X-Disclaimer: Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of NVL Sender: usenet@nvl.army.mil Nntp-Posting-Host: 140.183.12.36 Reply-To: bajones@nvl.army.mil Organization: Night Vision Labs, Ft Belvoir, VA References: <2imd2b$h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb3.024202.22960@ccc.amdahl.com> <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 14:21:15 GMT Lines: 14 In article <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com writes: > > > Why don't I just dig up the whole fricking yard and plant concrete. > > That does sound ideal for all your gardening needs. -- Elizabeth Jones E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil "A home without a cat, and a well-fed, well-petted, and properly revered cat, may be a perfect home, *perhaps*, but how can it prove its title?" Mark Twain From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke Wed Feb 9 18:16:26 EST 1994 Article: 26339 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Frost hardy ? Message-ID: <1994Feb7.163541.4113@lsl.co.uk> Date: 7 Feb 94 16:35:40 +0100 References: <3218@grivel.une.edu.au> Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 25 In article <3218@grivel.une.edu.au>, mwitchar@metz.une.edu.au (MARTIN WITCHARD) writes: > I am gardening in Australia at an altitude of 1,000 m (3,000 ft), 780 mm > rainfall, cool summers and cold winters. > > I'm interested in a few 'exotics' for the garden but am unsure as to > whether they will survive the frost in winter (which can get down > to -10). The plants are: > > Romneya (Californian Tree Poppy?) > Clathra (Lily of the Valley Tree) > Cedronella (a herb : Balm of Gilead) > Lobelia x (cv. 'Complexion' : a speciosa type) I grew some Lobelia 'Compliment' last year in England. Probably similar to 'Complexion' but a different colour. They grew just a single flowering stem, but still seem to be surviving out of doors, and now have a few shoots appearing from the base. It's still too soon to say definitely whether they will survive. I don't think we have had -10 C this Winter (yet), maybe -6 though. I assume your -10 was Centigrade - that's 14 Fahrenheit. We're still fairly hybrid in this country. I talk Centigrade if I am being scientific, but Fahrenheit if I want to know actally how hot/cold it was. As a fairly useless fact, the two scales are the same at -40, so if it got that cold, then we woudn't have to worry which we were using. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!gumby!yale!news.wesleyan.edu!eagle.wesleyan.edu!jbrooks Wed Feb 9 18:16:27 EST 1994 Article: 26340 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!gumby!yale!news.wesleyan.edu!eagle.wesleyan.edu!jbrooks Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Cats in yard... Message-ID: <1994Feb7.070434.1@eagle.wesleyan.edu> From: jbrooks@eagle.wesleyan.edu Date: 7 Feb 94 07:04:34 EST References: Nntp-Posting-Host: wesleyan.edu Lines: 16 In article , hotzc@columbia.dsu.edu (CHRISTOPHER HOTZ) writes: > I find it remarkable that no one mentioned using a low-powered bb/pellet > pistol or gun. A number of them will only give the animal a good sting. > This probably has legal implications though and therefore would not be the > greatest things to try. Generally I don't have any problems with cat though > and if I did I would first try to work it out with the neighbors or find > some natural repellant. The gun method would be a final resort and if that > didn't work then...... well maybe a .22 would work... How wonderfully insensitive, Chris. Nothing like a good "sting" to the eye I always say! How many people mean enough to start shooting at cats are really going to stop at a low power setting anyhow? most will use the approach that if a little works then a lot will work quicker (alot like chemicals in the garden ain't it). Get real Chris and show some respect. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc Wed Feb 9 18:16:28 EST 1994 Article: 26341 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc From: billmc@microsoft.com (Bill McJohn) Subject: Heliotrope Organization: Microsoft Corporation Message-ID: Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 19:38:22 GMT Lines: 23 I'm very fond of Heliotrope; I love its foliage, flowers, and fragrance. Especially the fragrance! Since it isn't common at nurseries here in Seattle (and, when I found some plants last year, they were pretty expensive), I want to start some from seed this year. I ordered seed from _The Fragrant Path_; this is _not_ 'Mini Marine', and I don't know how big the plants will get. I'd be interested in hearing from people who have successfully grown heliotrope from seed: did you find that there were tricks, to getting it to germinate; does it transplant readily or should I start it in individual pots; what growing conditions does it prefer; and any other comments. I'd be particularly interested in hearing from other people in dry-summer climates, since I'm not sure how much summer watering it will require. Please e-mail me, and I will post a summary. Thanks, Bill McJohn billmc@microsoft From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!pipeline.com!malgudi.oar.net!witch!crash!lweitzel Wed Feb 9 18:16:29 EST 1994 Article: 26342 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!pipeline.com!malgudi.oar.net!witch!crash!lweitzel Newsgroups: rec.gardens Message-ID: <43@crash.win.net> References: <2iopaf$slf@morrow.stanford.edu> Reply-To: lweitzel@crash.win.net (Laurie Weitzel) From: lweitzel@crash.win.net (Laurie Weitzel) Date: Mon, 07 Feb 1994 01:00:06 GMT Subject: Re: plants that repel cats Lines: 16 > >So this is not just a flame war, I do have a practical suggestion: >Go to sears and buy a humane raccoon trap. Set it every night with >cat food. The cats that have a collar and tag or you know where >they live either take home to the owners and explain the problem. >Or give the cat a cold shower-he won't be back in your yard! Any >cats that are semi wild or unknown, take right to animal control.For >those of you who think this is drastic, maybe you don't have kids >playing in the garden > So far, this is the only solution I have seen that makes ANY sense! Laurie From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph7f4!chriswil Wed Feb 9 18:16:33 EST 1994 Article: 26343 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph7f4!chriswil From: chriswil@brtph7f4.bnr.ca (Chris Williams P210) Subject: Re: Mail Order (was Spring Hill: good or bad?) Message-ID: <1994Feb7.150022.4209@brtph560.bnr.ca> Sender: chriswil@brtph7f4 (Chris Williams P210) Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada References: <2ic510INNlec@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> <2ihr0s$icb@netnews.upenn.edu> <1994Feb1.144202.2771@brtph560.bnr.ca> <16F53967ES85.M17251@mwvm.mitre.org> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 15:00:22 GMT Lines: 40 In article <16F53967ES85.M17251@mwvm.mitre.org>, M17251@mwvm.mitre.org writes: |> > |> >I've since learned of cheaper sources through this newsgroup, but haven't |> >come across any mail-order companies that appear to be much better |> >(not for the same price anyway--and Spring Hill is NOT one of the cheaper |> >places to buy from). |> > |> I ordered a small garden from Spring Hill and was satisfied by |> both the price and condition of the plants. I did purchase a collection |> and doing so supposedly got a good deal. One plant did die soon after |> planting but Spring Hill replaced it in a matter of days. |> I was thinking about ordering more but with what I've been reading |> I'm having second thoughts. Can anyone tell me/us specific examples of |> what went wrong? |> Jim I didn't mean to sound as though I was not satisfied with the quality/price that I received from Spring Hill. What I should have said was that in my experience with them, they don't sell cheap (read "inferior") stuff. Their prices are a little higher than what you can sometimes find in the garden center of your local HQ, Home Depot, Wal-Mart, Lowe's, etc., but that's to be expected; the quality is usually higher coming from Spring Hill. That's not to say you can't find good quality and prices at your local home warehouse or department store. I've been quite pleased with some recent purchases at Wal-Mart. (Only problem is that the good plants get gone quick!) Anyway, to make a long story short--I still order from Spring Hill and will continue to. But I'm always looking for other cheaper, quality sources... -- Chris Williams chriswil@bnr.ca Bell-Northern Research, Inc. 35 Davis Drive P.O. Box 13478 Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-3478 ****************Insert standard disclaimer here******************** These are my opinions, not BNR's. Mileage may vary. Void where prohibited. See your local dealer for more details. ******************************************************************* From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bluebird.uchicago.edu!lal Wed Feb 9 18:16:34 EST 1994 Article: 26344 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bluebird.uchicago.edu!lal From: lal@press.uchicago.edu (Lisa Lucas) Subject: Re: gardening magazines Message-ID: Lines: 13 Sender: news@uchinews.uchicago.edu (News System) Organization: The University of Chicago Press X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 18:26:23 GMT I subscribe to Gardens Illustrated, a British gardening magazine published six times per year. Although it doesn't contain as much practical advice as Horticulture, it does feature lush photography, book reviews with a different angle than the ones carried in American magazines, wide-ranging design ideas, and well-known contributors (Rosemary Verey, Penelope Hobhouse). The subscription price is a bit steep (between $50-$60 if I remember correctly) but it's becoming more widely available at large newsstands and booksellers (such as Barnes & Noble). Lisa Lucas (a zone-5 newcomer to the rec.gardens list) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!convex!news.utdallas.edu!corpgate!nrtpa22!n8pph29!slc Wed Feb 9 18:16:35 EST 1994 Article: 26345 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!convex!news.utdallas.edu!corpgate!nrtpa22!n8pph29!slc From: slc@n8pph29.nt.com (Steve Crumley) Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Message-ID: Sender: slc@n8pph29 (Steve Crumley) Nntp-Posting-Host: n8pph29 Organization: BNR, Research Triangle Park, NC References: <9402052242595.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 19:38:47 GMT Lines: 12 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:71001 alt.config:24056 rec.gardens:26345 misc.rural:7712 In article <9402052242595.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com>, ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) writes: |> >I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. |> |> I'd be interested in such a group. I do not currently keep bees here in Ohio |> Valley suburbia, but I did in the Appalachians of my adolescence. I hope to |> start again sometime soon and would welcome the information I could gain |> from a newsgroup. I'm not sure I would have much to contribute, but I can |> promise to be a faithful lurker. |> |> Greg I just started keeping bees and would love get in touch with other beekeepers! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!gatekeeper.us.oracle.com!barrnet.net!informix.com!informix.com!nickh Wed Feb 9 18:16:37 EST 1994 Article: 26346 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!gatekeeper.us.oracle.com!barrnet.net!informix.com!informix.com!nickh From: nickh@informix.com (Nick Hecker) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seek advice on horticulture career Date: 3 Feb 1994 17:04:37 GMT Organization: Informix Software, Inc. Lines: 14 Message-ID: <2irar5$ju1@infmx.informix.com> References: <94019.205511RHH100F@ODUVM.BITNET> <2i1k8eINN9o7@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: infmx.informix.com In article kinnong@nbnet.nb.ca (Greg MacKinnon) writes: >>>My 15-year-old daughter is interested in a career in horticulture >>>and/or landscape architecture. I'd be very grateful for any >>>advice anyone would care to offer on how she might proceed at this >>>age, esp. recommendations on colleges that offer especially strong >>>programs. She lives in northern Indiana and gets straight A's: When I was a Junior in high school a couple of my graduating friends went into Horticultual Design and were very impressed with the offerings of Michigan State in Lansing, Michigan. Nick From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Wed Feb 9 18:16:38 EST 1994 Article: 26347 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: <2ijj90$2qd@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> Date: Sun, 6 Feb 1994 21:57:21 GMT Lines: 18 In article <2ijj90$2qd@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> mesora@leland.stanford.edu writes: >Can anybody help me with this problem? Our neighbors' cats are using >our back yard as a litterbox! Are there any plants or herbs that will >deter cats from doing this? Any advice will be appreciated! I've had trouble with cats in freshly-prepared beds -- once the veggies come up, and fill in, it's not such a problem, but the freshly-turned and planted areas seem to attract them especially. They seem to think I do all that spade-work just to give them a pleasant excretorical experience. I put short posts at the corners, and a few betwixt, and make a spider-web formation of string. About cat-chest high. They can't get over it, or under it. Doesn't take a really tight mesh. By the time things start to grow, and the string gets in the way of weeding or picking, the cats seem to have lost interest in the bed, and the string can come off. I like it because it only takes a few minutes to set up, and it's a completely harmless and passive deterrent. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb Wed Feb 9 18:16:39 EST 1994 Article: 26348 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb From: u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: plants that repel cats Date: 7 Feb 1994 19:32:49 GMT Organization: USACE Waterways Experiment Station Lines: 37 Message-ID: <2j6511$6dj@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> References: <2iopaf$slf@morrow.stanford.edu> <43@crash.win.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: apollo.wes.army.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Not that this relates to the current thread/flame skirmish, but I remember years ago reading about a lady with an outdoor pool full of koi, etc. A neighbor's cat kept coming over and going fishing. Her solution was to build a small "teeter-totter" where the cat would position itself. The cat would see a fish, move towards the pool, thereby shifting weight on the teeter-totter, and spill itself ino the water! The cat soon gave up on that pool and went to other pursuits. Don't know how that idea could help here, without lots of work/investment. But it was fun to remember her solution. Of course, he could surround his garden with several parallel strands of electric fence, spaced 6" or so, so the cat couldn't easily move between strands, and put enough so the cat couldn't jump over the wires. Could make the last one (closest to the garden) higher, as a further jump boundary. +---------------------------------+ |+-------------------------------+| ||+-----------------------------+|| ||| ||| ||| garden area ||| ||| ||| ||+-----------------------------+|| |+-------------------------------+| +---------------------------------+ Of course, he would need to leave a path for himself. Or considering *his* solution, maybe not :) . Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil Computer Scientist Information Technology Laboratory U.S. Army Corps of Engineers "select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!cronkite.cisco.com!mlw Wed Feb 9 18:16:39 EST 1994 Article: 26349 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!cronkite.cisco.com!mlw From: mlw@cisco.com (Monica Waldman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mail Order - A High Country Garden Date: 7 Feb 1994 20:36:20 GMT Organization: cisco Systems, Inc., Menlo Park, Ca. Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j68o4$t6b@cronkite.cisco.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: lager.cisco.com I received an interesting plant catalog from A High Country Garden. Does anyone have experience ordering plants from them? -- standard disclaimer, etc. ad nauseum "If you can't kill for God, you can't die for God." - David Koresh From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!newsflash.mitre.org!lkahn-mac.mitre.org!user Wed Feb 9 18:16:40 EST 1994 Article: 26350 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!linus.mitre.org!newsflash.mitre.org!lkahn-mac.mitre.org!user From: lkahn@mitre.org (Mr Squop) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 7 Feb 1994 19:50:05 GMT Organization: Society, for the Preservation, of Commas Lines: 28 Message-ID: References: <2imd2b$h9e@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb3.024202.22960@ccc.amdahl.com> <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: lkahn-mac.mitre.org :In article , bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) wrote: :> In article <1994Feb3.121413.4449@es.dupont.com> molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com :writes: :> > :> > :> > Why don't I just dig up the whole fricking yard and plant concrete. :> > :> > :> :> That does sound ideal for all your gardening needs. :> :> -- :> Elizabeth Jones E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil :> :> "A home without a cat, and a well-fed, well-petted, and properly revered cat, :> may be a perfect home, *perhaps*, but how can it prove its title?" Mark Twain Don't laugh, down in Florida, they do just that. I've seen yards completely paved over with concrete painted green, with a few holes cut out for palm trees. Either that, or they have an astroturf lawn. Plus the usual assortment of pink flamingos. -- Larry Kahn "Winning isn't everything, but losing sucks." lkahn@mitre.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.aero.org!aerospace.aero.org!macheske Wed Feb 9 18:16:41 EST 1994 Article: 26351 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.aero.org!aerospace.aero.org!macheske From: macheske@aerospace.aero.org (Richard M. Macheske) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Date: 7 Feb 1994 20:34:06 GMT Organization: The Aerospace Corporation, El Segundo, CA Lines: 9 Message-ID: <2j68ju$30l@news.aero.org> References: <2ijj90$2qd@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: aero.org The rest of our neighborhood has cat problems but they never seem to come into our yard. I think having two dogs helps. I don't know if it's the dog feeces or the dogs themselves. You might consider asking a neighbor for some dog droppings. Tell me if it works. Can we end this thread now? Rick From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!cunyvm!rohvm1!rohvm1.mah48d Wed Feb 9 18:16:42 EST 1994 Article: 26352 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!cunyvm!rohvm1!rohvm1.mah48d Nntp-Posting-Host: 136.141.220.39 Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 07:29:14 -0500 From: rohvm1.mah48d@rohmhaas.com (John E. Taylor III) Newsgroups: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Followup-To: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Distribution: world Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Message-ID: References: <1994Feb5.160628.19257@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Organization: Rohm and Haas Company Lines: 27 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:71015 alt.config:24065 rec.gardens:26352 misc.rural:7714 In article <1994Feb5.160628.19257@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com>, millerb@pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com (Bryan Miller) wrote, in part: > Michael Moroney appears to have written on Fri, 4 Feb 1994 04:39:45 GMT: > > I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. > > I believe it should be rec.beekeeping (perhaps rec..beekeeping) > > A sci. group would duplicate the BEE-L list, so it would be best to orient > > this toward the hobby beekeeper. > -- > Mike, > > I think the beekeeping group is a great idea! As a beekeeping newbie > it would prove invaluable. Perhaps we should initialize a formal > request to start such a group. > > Bryan I missed Mike's original posting, but I'd like to add my support for a group for recreational beekeepers. Considering all the groups that _do_ exist, I must admit I was a bit surprised that such a group was not already around. I have had a single colony for a couple of years, so my experience is limited, but I'd be happy to share it, and would hope I could learn a lot from folks who've been in the game longer (or more intensively). -- John Taylor rohvm1.mah48d@rohmhaas.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!shaman.nexagen.com!shaman.nexagen.com!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:16:43 EST 1994 Article: 26353 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!csn!shaman.nexagen.com!shaman.nexagen.com!not-for-mail From: paquette@shaman.nexagen.com (Tom Paquette) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Patio over Tree Roots Date: 7 Feb 1994 12:57:30 -0700 Organization: NeXagen.com Lines: 6 Message-ID: <2j66faINNesk@shaman.nexagen.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: shaman.nexagen.com Summary: OK to brick over roots? Keywords: patio russian olive Does anyone know if its okay to put a brick patio over the roots of an existing tree? Does air have to get through? If I use sand-set bricks and cover only 1/3 to 1/4 of the umbrella area and drain water away from the trunk is that okay. My tree is a russian olive which is a drought resistant tree that does not get very large. Thanks. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uhog.mit.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!lb2r+ Wed Feb 9 18:16:44 EST 1994 Article: 26354 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uhog.mit.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!lb2r+ From: Lorraine Blasik Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Another Orchid ? Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 14:49:11 -0500 Organization: Comp Svcs Administration, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 14 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: po3.andrew.cmu.edu Hi all, I am hoping you guys can give me some more good advice on the care of my orchid. I aquired it about 4 months ago and it was in bloom. Last month the last of the blossoms fell off awnd I cut the stem back. It seems now the leaves leaves are turning yellow and falling off. I only water from the bottom and only when I can't see water in the cup. It is in my office window and gets indirect sun (when we get sun - Pittsburgh, PA). There is always air circulation in the office,because of the ceiling vent, but it is located opposite of where the plant sits ANy suggestions, comments would be helpful, Thanks -Lori From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!fido.asd.sgi.com!ford.wpd.sgi.com!peteo Wed Feb 9 18:16:45 EST 1994 Article: 26355 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!fido.asd.sgi.com!ford.wpd.sgi.com!peteo From: peteo@ford.wpd.sgi.com (Peter Orelup) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Container Water Gardens- Do they really work?! Date: 7 Feb 1994 21:53:12 GMT Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc. Lines: 36 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j6d88$hdd@fido.asd.sgi.com> References: <2iokqk$ei7@gap.cco.caltech.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ford.wpd.sgi.com In article <2iokqk$ei7@gap.cco.caltech.edu>, kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.) writes: |> I was at my local Smith and Hawkins shop yesterday, and they had *beautiful* |> containers for water gardens (or really anything I suppose,) for sale. |> Low and wide was the shape. I have seen 'complete' (few plants and a |> water lily and the plastic pot,) water gardens for sale, and wonder if |> they really DO work...?! What are the potential problems? Do *all* |> water lilies need full sun to bloom well? This would be for a patio or |> near patio in Zone 10 where it never freezes and we rarely get frost |> (just so that you know what the plants would be dealing with...) Any |> recommended books or reading for container water gardens? Any good |> catalogs with plant suggestions that would be suitable?? Is there a |> minimal 'workable' size? (They had several sizes from smallish to largish |> for sale.) |> |> Thank you in advance!!! |> Kelly |> kelly@cco.caltech.edu When I lived in Southern California, I had several small container water gardens in the yard. They ranged from about 2.5 to 4 feet in diameter and were all about 1.5 to 2 feet deep. They all worked quite well. Once they are established, they need almost no maintenance, other than being topped off every few days in warm weather. Some hardy water lilies will bloom in less than full sun, other hardies and almost all tropicals won't. I would recommend you call up Van Ness Water Gardens in Upland and ask them to mail you their catalog. It includes a good introductory description of how to create a naturally balanced water garden, as well as some specific advice for small tub gardens. It's a great place to visit as well. Good luck, Pete ------ Pete Orelup, Silicon Graphics, Inc. (peteo@sgi.com) (415) 390-3697, Fax: (415) 969-2314, MS: 1-875 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!pacbell.com!att-out!cbnewsh!dvw Wed Feb 9 18:16:46 EST 1994 Article: 26356 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!pacbell.com!att-out!cbnewsh!dvw From: dvw@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (diane.v.wilkerson) Subject: NJ & Philly Flower Show Information Organization: AT&T Distribution: na Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 21:58:01 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 48 Feb. 25 - March 6: 1994 NJ Flower and Garden Show, Garden State Exhibit Center 50 Atrium Drive (off of Davidson Avenue, exit 6 off route I-287) Somerset, NJ (908) 919-7660 for more information Theme: Garden Magic Hours: 2/25: 4-9 p.m. 2/26, 2/28 - 3/5: 10 a.m. - 9 p.m. 2/27, 3/6: 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. Admission $9.50, children under 12 free with paying adult. [NOTE: I attended this one last year, it's a small show (the merchandise booths well outnumbered the exhibitors), but the exhibits were for the most part well prepared and the exhibitors knowledgeable.] ====================== Mar. 6 - Mar. 13: Philadelphia Flower Show [considered *the* flower show in the US] Philadelphia Civic Center 34th Street and Civic Center Boulevard (34th and Locust) Philadelphia, PA (215) 625-8253 Theme: Islands in the Sun [I'm a native Philadelphian, and I'm embarrassed to say that for the life of me I can't tell specifically you how to get there quickly. I'm sure it involves the Ben Franklin Bridge, to the Vine Street Expressway, to the Schuylkill (sp) Expressway west to maybe the South Street exit, but don't quote me, call and be sure. Or maybe one of our Philly net-friends can assist. I can tell you that parking is expensive and a bear, since there are two major hospitals right across the street (Childrens' and Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania), and a hotel (Hilton?) right next door.] Hours: 3/6, 3/13: 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. 3/7 - 12: 10 a.m. - 9:30 p.m. Admission $11.50, children under 12 $5.75. -- Diane Wilkerson | AT&T | ..!att!cbnewsh!dvw | (908) 615-2704 | From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Wed Feb 9 18:16:50 EST 1994 Article: 26357 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!demon!dis.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: HydroGel? References: <1994Feb4.214552.20686@tigger.jvnc.net> <1994Feb4.221936.22849@news.media.mit.edu> <1994Feb6.103912.22440@cobra.uni.edu> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 21 Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 19:12:46 +0000 Message-ID: <760648366snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article ruth+@cs.cmu.edu "Ruth Moabite" writes: > Also, HOW DOES THIS STUFF WORK? I know it is supposed to release the water > from the little gel-blobs "as needed," but why should we think that the plants > in this stuff need the water any less frequently? The evaporation from the > soil in contact with the pot should be the same, drawing water away from the > center and dehydrating it at the same rate. I don't understand the scientific > principles at work here. > AFAIK it's just a reservoir principle. The gel holds more water than equivalent amounts of compost so, agreed, there's a constant rate of dehydration, but you are starting from a point of higher water content, ipso facto the pot takes longer to dry out. Out of interest, I read somewhere that the Forestry Commission in the U.K. tried using this material in open ground, to help with the establishment of newly planted trees, but had little, if any success with it. The general consensus seems to be that it *does* help in pots, though. Why it didn't with your Christmas tree, I have no idea. -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.byu.edu!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel!rat!decwrl!netcomsv!netcom.com!lemay Wed Feb 9 18:16:51 EST 1994 Article: 26358 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.byu.edu!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel!rat!decwrl!netcomsv!netcom.com!lemay From: lemay@netcom.com (Killer of Trees) Subject: pre-treating half barrells? Message-ID: Organization: Netcom Online Communications Services (408-241-9760 login: guest) Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 20:56:35 GMT Lines: 30 My local hardware store had a sale on half-barrels. I coulnd't resist that. I bought three. I had never bought true half-barrels before -- just large tubs. I thought that the expression "half-barrel" was a metaphor. SO I was surprised to find that these were real, live, honest and for true barrels -- wine barrels, in fact. Imported red wine, it appears from the stamps on the bottom. My problem is just that -- the wine. The barrels reek of it, and one of them has a thick coating of mold. I tried scrubbing one of them out and the wine leeched into the water I put in it...old, acidic, vinegarey wine. I'm worried about planting things in these barrels with such a strong wine presence. I don't think acid-loving plants would have a problem, but I want to plant roses and annumals in them. And the mold worries me even more. Mold can't be good for plants. How do I get the wine out of the wood? Or at least tone it down a little....? -- ********************************************************* Laura Lemay lemay@netcom.com writer of trifles in shadows and blood ********************************************************* From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!cmhcsys.com!jaimef Wed Feb 9 18:16:54 EST 1994 Article: 26359 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!cmhcsys.com!jaimef From: jaimef@cmhcsys.com (Jaime Fuhr) Subject: Thanks Everyone.. RE: Michigan Bulb Organization: CMHC Systems Date: Mon, 07 Feb 1994 13:38:19 GMT Message-ID: <1994Feb07.133819.1051@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com> X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Sender: news@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com (Usenet News Administrator) Lines: 13 My mailbox was overwhelmed with mail regarding products from the Michigan Bulb Company. And the consensus seems to be that they are junk! Thanks for all the replies folks. - jaime -- *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*- Jaime Fuhr, CMHC Systems jaimef@cmhcprd.cmhcsys.COM Columbus, Ohio "None of us are as smart as all of us" DeVry Institute of Technology - The One Minute Manager From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph7f4!chriswil Wed Feb 9 18:16:55 EST 1994 Article: 26360 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph7f4!chriswil From: chriswil@brtph7f4.bnr.ca (Chris Williams) Subject: Re: Gardening magazines (was: Re: OG email update) Message-ID: <1994Feb7.203633.12672@brtph560.bnr.ca> Sender: chriswil@brtph7f4 (Chris Williams P210) Organization: Bell-Northern Research, RTP, NC References: <1994Feb7.151220.16637@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 20:36:33 GMT Lines: 30 In article <1994Feb7.151220.16637@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com>, millerb@pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com (Bryan Miller) writes: |> |> So. It looks like we're back to square one. What other mags besides OG |> (ok ok, and Horticulture) are good alternatives? |> -- I came across a magazine this weekend that I hadn't seen before. It's a companion magazine to Organic Gardening called Organic Flower Gardening. The issue I purchased had lots of interesting articles about roses, including a very good piece on David Austin Roses. I think the subscription rate is ~$16 for 6 issues--kind of expensive, isn't it? If you don't really care for the vegetable side of gardening, I think this would be a good magazine to check out. It's funny I haven't noticed any mention of this magazine in the regular Organic Gardening. -- Chris Williams chriswil@bnr.ca Bell-Northern Research, Inc. 35 Davis Drive P.O. Box 13478 Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-3478 ****************Insert standard disclaimer here******************** These are my opinions, not BNR's. Mileage may vary. Void where prohibited. See your local dealer for more details. ******************************************************************* From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph7f4!chriswil Wed Feb 9 18:16:56 EST 1994 Article: 26361 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph7f4!chriswil From: chriswil@brtph7f4.bnr.ca (Chris Williams) Subject: Re: Transplanting people... Message-ID: <1994Feb7.185626.9894@brtph560.bnr.ca> Sender: chriswil@brtph7f4 (Chris Williams P210) Organization: Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Canada References: <19940206.23470855.katew@delphi.com> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 18:56:26 GMT Lines: 45 In article <19940206.23470855.katew@delphi.com>, KATEW@delphi.com writes: |> Yikes! I'm moving next month from Portland to Athens, Georgia; it's not a |> zone change, funnily enough, but it WILL be a culture and climate shock for |> all concerned. My question: for years, I've relied on Sunset magazine and |> their _Western Garden Book_ for garden tips and advice. Is there a comparable |> magazine and book for the South? |> |> Any tips for the safe and fruitful transplanting of Oregonians will be gladly |> noted (the Oregonian in question lived in Chicago for four years but never had |> dirt to call my own, so that's not a relevant transplant experience). |> The magazine Southern Living has a section devoted to gardening each month and also includes larger articles throughout the year on garden subjects. One good article I remember was about private gardens in Charleston, SC. This month's issue (or was it last month?) had an article about mail-order nurseries around the South--Plant's Delight here in NC, Tomato Grower's Supply in FL, and a couple of others (rhododendron specialist, succulent specialist). Recipes are also a big part of this magazine. Books? There are more books on Southern gardening than you can shake a stick at (you'll have to learn Southern slang if you really want to fit in). As for the culture shock, just keep in mind that life moves slower through most parts of the South. What else would you expect in a part of the country where swinging on the front porch has been perfected to a fine art? And please don't believe all of the typical stereotypes about the South. We're not all like the Southerners they like to portray on TV. We have problems here just like the rest of the country, but for the most part, I think people in the South are some of the friendliest around. By the way, pecan is pronounced pee-can, not pa-con like those Northerners insist. If you -really- want to blend in, use the right pronunciation. This advice from someone born and raised in the South. -- Chris Williams chriswil@bnr.ca Bell-Northern Research, Inc. 35 Davis Drive P.O. Box 13478 Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-3478 ****************Insert standard disclaimer here******************** These are my opinions, not BNR's. Mileage may vary. Void where prohibited. See your local dealer for more details. ******************************************************************* From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Wed Feb 9 18:16:57 EST 1994 Article: 26362 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: Clematis? Sender: news@boi.hp.com (Boise Site News Server) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 21:59:32 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: hpbs114.boi.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Lines: 18 A local discount store is offering some very nice looking boxed sets of Clematis... The plants are potted with healthy-looky vines beginning to creep up a pole in the center... However, the instructions say to take it home and plant it outside right away. I would like to get the plants (great price!) but we have a couple of months of wintery weather ahead yet. (1) Can Clematis be planted when it is still freezing out? (2) Can Clematis be nurtured indoors until more clement (pun intended) weather? Please reply be direct e-mail if possible, my BB indexing is messed up and no guarantee I'll be able to read a posted response... Thanks, Gary Hypes From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!news.bu.edu!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:16:59 EST 1994 Article: 26363 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!news.bu.edu!usenet From: LKEYS@BUPULA.BU.EDU (clementine) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: HYDROPONICS Date: 7 Feb 1994 21:47:13 GMT Organization: Boston University, Pulmonary Center Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j6ct1$rhk@news.bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bupula.bu.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24 Does anyone out there garden hydroponically? I've been thinking of starting my seeds this way, but I'd like to chat with someone about it first... thanks Linda From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!bohr.physics.upenn.edu!bush Wed Feb 9 18:17:00 EST 1994 Article: 26364 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!bohr.physics.upenn.edu!bush From: bush@bohr.physics.upenn.edu (Judith Elaine Bush Newton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: NJ & Philly Flower Show Information Date: 7 Feb 1994 22:38:51 GMT Organization: Tandem Lab - U.Penn Lines: 86 Distribution: na Message-ID: <2j6ftr$31m@netnews.upenn.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: bohr.physics.upenn.edu In article , dvw@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (diane.v.wilkerson) writes: |> |> Mar. 6 - Mar. 13: |> |> Philadelphia Flower Show [considered *the* flower show in the US] |> Philadelphia Civic Center |> 34th Street and Civic Center Boulevard (34th and Locust) |> Philadelphia, PA |> (215) 625-8253 |> Theme: Islands in the Sun |> |> [I'm a native Philadelphian, and I'm embarrassed to say that for the life of |> me I can't tell specifically you how to get there quickly. I'm sure it |> involves the Ben Franklin Bridge, to the Vine Street Expressway, to the |> Schuylkill (sp) Expressway west to maybe the South Street exit, but don't |> quote me, call and be sure. Or maybe one of our Philly net-friends can |> assist. I can tell you that parking is expensive and a bear, since there |> are two major hospitals right across the street (Childrens' and Hospital of |> the University of Pennsylvania), and a hotel (Hilton?) right next door.] |> |> Hours: 3/6, 3/13: 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. |> 3/7 - 12: 10 a.m. - 9:30 p.m. |> |> Admission $11.50, children under 12 $5.75. Well, I tend to walk to work (which is right up the street) so I'll try to get this right for those in a car. FROM I95 Take I676 West through Philadelphia (Market Street or Walnut Street heading west, as the street numbers increase, also work, are more scenic, and will take longer) Take I-676 to the train station. FROM I76 Take the 30th Street Station exit. FROM 30th Street Station Go around the train station and get onto Market St. (You can see here how Walnut and Market will also get you where you're going; the Schukull River is where 28th Sreet should be and only Walnut and Market have bridges which cross) CIVIC CENTER || || /\ Univ. Museum / \ I'm trying to show how 33rd & / \ 34th merge to Civic Center Bvd __|_____________ --|-------------Spruce | | v ^ PENN UNIVERSITY DRL |[------]|[---------Locust, closed to traffic DRL | | -------->----|--- Walnut | | | | PPPPPP | | Post Office-> PPPPPP ------<----|--- Chestnut PPPPPP . | | PPPPPP | | _______________|_______.....__|______........ Market St-> ---------------|-------.....--|------........ TTTTTT | | TTTTTT | | Train Station-> TTTTTT | | TTTTTT | _______/ 34th / | | <<< This is where the 676/76 30th St Station exit puts you. Two way streets are double lines, one way have arrows. Take 34th to Spruce, continue. NOTE. THERE IS CHEAPER PARKING AROUND THIRTIETH STREET STATION. You've only to walk three blocks west and then just walk south four blocks. It's worth not dealing with the traffic, I'm sure. GOOD LUCK -- +*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+* * Judith Elaine Bush Newton | bush@bohr.physics.upenn.edu + +*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+* From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!convex!news.oc.com!news.kei.com!eff!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!noose.ecn.purdue.edu!dirac!bohr.physics.purdue.edu!ns Wed Feb 9 18:17:03 EST 1994 Article: 26365 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!convex!news.oc.com!news.kei.com!eff!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!mentor.cc.purdue.edu!noose.ecn.purdue.edu!dirac!bohr.physics.purdue.edu!ns From: ns@bohr.physics.purdue.edu (Nancy M. Schnepp) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: National Registry of Big Trees? Message-ID: <14779@dirac.physics.purdue.edu> Date: 7 Feb 94 20:26:47 GMT Sender: news@dirac.physics.purdue.edu Organization: Purdue University Physics Department Lines: 6 Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the National Registry of Big Trees and how much it would cost? Thanks!! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer Wed Feb 9 18:17:05 EST 1994 Article: 26366 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: bugs on cactus Date: 8 Feb 1994 01:02:48 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 56 Message-ID: <2j6obo$8f5@news.u.washington.edu> References: <39240008@opus.hpl.hp.com> <760468109snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu In article <760468109snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk>, Gary Cooper wrote: >In article <39240008@opus.hpl.hp.com> jewett@opus.hpl.hp.com "Bob Jewett" writes: > >> >> > If you are disinclined to use chemical pesticides then soft-soap >> > (Safers) should do the trick. >> >> A note from a reader in the latest Amateur's Digest (printed in Canada, >> about cacti and succulents) says they tried an extra-dilute solution of >> insecticidal soap, and it ruined their cactus plant. >> >It's not impossible, I suppose, but did anyone suggest *why* this might have >happened? I've just checked in the latest RHS Encyclopedia of Gardening and >they, too, suggest insectidal soap for dealing with these bugs. Has anyone any >ideas or data which might suggest that soaps can harm cacti? If they can pass >it on it would certainly be helpful. >-- >Gary Cooper Some plants are more sensitive than others to insecticides; and unfortunately the only way to find out is by experience (or preferably, others' experience...) I have not had any trouble with Safer soap, but I don't grow Trichocereus either. If I am unsure about a plant's tolerance, I do what the above person did, i.e. try a lower concentration first. Too bad it was still too much. He didn't say exactly how the plant was "ruined," but another possibility comes to mind - if he sprayed the plant while it was out in the hot sun, it could have caused it to burn. This is especially important when using alcohol - you need to make sure that it is completely dry before you put it back into the sun. One other thing that I think needs mentioning when we are talking about mealy bugs (or most other pests as well), is followup treatments. One hit of Safer soap, alcohol, or anything, will kill all the hatched bugs, but usually will not kill the eggs, so it is important to hit them again after about 4 days, and once more after that. Otherwise you will kill the mealy bugs only to have them come back in a short while. Another thing to watch for: there are different species of mealy bugs, and some attack roots as well (some attack only the roots). So if the plant looks okay but is not growing, check for root mealies. These are usually found on plants in dry soils, but I once got a pitcher plant in the mail (a bog plant) with its roots covered. There are soil drenches that will take care of them, but once again, be careful of sensitivity. Another easy-to-prepare preparation to kill bugs is oil spray. Mix one cup of wesson oil with one Tablespoon of dishwashing detergent. This is the stock solution. To make spray, add 1-2 teaspons to a cup of water. You can also modify this with nicotine (boil some cigarette butts in the water first), or hot pepper. If you boil hot pepper, make sure the area is well-ventilated, otherwise you will experience a mild version of pepper spray. Not pleasant. Again, start with a mild solution first. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!uxa.ecn.bgu.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:17:06 EST 1994 Article: 26367 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!news.ecn.bgu.edu!uxa.ecn.bgu.edu!not-for-mail From: ulsander@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu (Laura Sanders) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Date: 7 Feb 1994 18:40:43 -0600 Organization: Educational Computing Network, Illinois USA Lines: 15 Message-ID: <2j6n2b$pni@uxa.ecn.bgu.edu> References: <2ijj90$2qd@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk> <1994Feb1.121839.3524@es.dupont.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: uxa.ecn.bgu.edu > >The solution I came up with last year was to put bowls of antifreeze in >the flowerbeds. They only vivited my flowerbeds once more. Come to think >of it, I haven't even seen them in the neighborhood, and my flowerbeds >are really happy now. > Please tell me you're joking. WARNING TO ANYONE WHO LOVES CATS, DOGS, KIDS, AND/OR OTHER WILDLIFE: antifreeze is very poisonous, AND its smell and taste appeal to animals. If you spill some outdoors, clean it up immediately. And try some less deadly method of keeping animals out of your garden. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!k4pql!hhoyt Wed Feb 9 18:17:07 EST 1994 Article: 26368 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!k4pql!hhoyt From: hhoyt@k4pql.apex.nc.us (Howard Hoyt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: magazines Message-ID: Date: Mon, 07 Feb 94 22:42:24 GMT Organization: Internet Surfer Lines: 20 Bryan and all, Have you checked out Fine Gardening magazine, from Taunton Press? It's my favorite. It's a general magazine, but they do seem to concentrate on ornamentals more than edibles. The articles are top-notch- often written by subscribers. Photography is good too. Horticulture seems to be focused too much on the Northeast, IMO, whereas FG seems to spread out the interest a bit more to different areas of the country. Can't say what the "pay up or else" policy is though. ;) I've never let my subscription expire. lynn (HHOYT@K4PQL.APEX.NC.US) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer Wed Feb 9 18:17:08 EST 1994 Article: 26369 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Nonsucculent drought tolerant plants how do they do it? Date: 8 Feb 1994 01:15:01 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 21 Message-ID: <2j6p2l$8k7@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1994Feb4.074516.13717@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu There are several mechanisms with which plants may conserve water. Plants that are not stem- or leaf- succulents, may still be root succulents, with a large taproot that can store water, or with a caudex (swollen trunk). Many of these plants grow only when water is available, or when temperatures are cool, or both, and drop their leaves, or even the entire above-ground parts of the plant, when temperatures are high and wate is scarce. Other plants, (and the "gray leaved plant you mention may be one of these) use a combination of small surface area and/or fuzz on the leaves to help reduce evapo-transpiration of water. Many of these also have oils on the leaves which help keep the water from evaporating into the atmosphere, and may also discourage animals which would eat the leaves, such as many sages, rosemary, sagebrush (and other Artemisias), and some chrysanthemums, pelargoniums, Santolinas, etc. Other plants such as California poppies, are annuals and do all their growing during the wet period, and die after producing their seed. The seed grows during the wet season (winter), and when it warms up they flower all at once and within a month or so are gone. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer Wed Feb 9 18:17:09 EST 1994 Article: 26370 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flowering Jade Plant Date: 8 Feb 1994 01:21:23 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 23 Message-ID: <2j6pej$8r5@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1994Feb4.225747.16704@marcal.uucp> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu In article <1994Feb4.225747.16704@marcal.uucp>, Diane Veeneman wrote: >>I've seen jade plants that flower, they are quite exquisite. Someone >>posted a note saying that jade plants typically flower at the age of 10 or >>11 years. Mine's a bit young yet, but when the time comes, is there >>anything special I can do to encourage it to bloom, watering, temperature, >>hours of sunlight, etc.? Actually, they don't have to be very big at all. I have seen plants just a year or so old from cuttings bloom. The main factors are sunlight and fertilization. You almost can't give a jade plant too much sun, unless you live in Phoenix. 5+ hours of direct sun a day should be enough. Lack of sun is the main cause of failure with jade plants. Fertilization: Don't overdo it. Use a low-nitogen fertilizer (with a lower first number than the middle and last, such as a 10-30-20), such as those used for fruiting tomatoes, and fertilize at half strength. If you overfertilize, especially with high nitrogen, you will get lots of leaf growth and no flowers. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Wed Feb 9 18:17:10 EST 1994 Article: 26371 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: pre-treating half barrells? Message-ID: <1994Feb7.191950.22518@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 7 Feb 94 19:19:50 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 23 In article , lemay@netcom.com (Killer of Trees) writes ... > I'm worried about planting things in these barrels with such a strong > wine presence. I don't think acid-loving plants would have a problem, > but I want to plant roses and annumals in them. And the mold worries me > even more. Mold can't be good for plants. > > How do I get the wine out of the wood? Or at least tone it down a > little...? Fill 'em up with water and let 'em sit overnight. Drain and refill a few times. Toss some bleach in the moldy one if you're worried (I wouldn't be). When they've been leached for a week or more, toss a cup of baking soda in a final change of water... Don't forget to drill lots and lots of little drainage holes (or a reasonable number of large drainage holes) before you fill 'em with soil. And put them where you think they'll stay... 'cause you *aren't* going to move 'em unless you take most of the soil out! Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI who has grown quite a number of things in whisky barrels that reeked! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!sunic!EU.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer Wed Feb 9 18:17:11 EST 1994 Article: 26372 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!sunic!EU.net!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Another Orchid ? Date: 8 Feb 1994 01:54:54 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 39 Message-ID: <2j6rde$9ej@news.u.washington.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu In article , Lorraine Blasik wrote: >Hi all, > >I am hoping you guys can give me some more good advice on the care of my >orchid. I aquired it about 4 months ago and it was in bloom. Last >month the last of the blossoms fell off awnd I cut the stem back. It >seems now the leaves leaves are turning yellow and falling off. I only >water from the bottom and only when I can't see water in the cup. It is >in my office window and gets indirect sun (when we get sun - Pittsburgh, >PA). There is always air circulation in the office,because of the >ceiling vent, but it is located opposite of where the plant sits > >ANy suggestions, comments would be helpful, > >Thanks -Lori It depends on what kind of orchid it is. Most of them want bright light, unless it is a slipper orchid (Paphiopedilum). Watering: Don't let it stand it water. When you water, make sure everything is well wet, and then let things get almost dry. Most of the orchids in cultivation are epiphytic (grow on trees) and take in water through a spongy layer on the roots. They can't take constant wet. If your orchid is planted in bark or soil (if it is a terrestrial), it is probably being drowned. You will also need to fertilize regularly; especiall if it is an epiphyte; since the potting medium doesn't hold much in the way of nutrients, you need to make sure nutrients get to the roots regularly in the water. Otherwise your plant will decline and die. If you aren't sure what kind of orchid it is, you might take it by a local shop that deals in them and have it identified; then you can get the exact cultural requirements. Or contact your local orchid society. Good luck! Bob From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!kodiak.gvltec.edu!titustgt Wed Feb 9 18:17:12 EST 1994 Article: 26373 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!kodiak.gvltec.edu!titustgt From: titustgt@kodiak.gvltec.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Message-ID: <1994Feb7.210312.25@kodiak.gvltec.edu> Date: 7 Feb 94 21:03:12 -0500 Organization: Greenville Technical College Lines: 6 I agree that a separate beekeeping group would be appropriate too! I myself am a hobbyist beekeeper with presently one hive of Italians. I have kept bees for over 10 years and attended many seminars/meetings. I am from Upstate SC and have found that a good location for my pollinators. Good honey too! Propolis enthusiast From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!kodiak.gvltec.edu!titustgt Wed Feb 9 18:17:13 EST 1994 Article: 26374 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!kodiak.gvltec.edu!titustgt From: titustgt@kodiak.gvltec.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Separate beekeeping group Message-ID: <1994Feb7.210736.26@kodiak.gvltec.edu> Date: 7 Feb 94 21:07:36 -0500 Organization: Greenville Technical College Lines: 8 I too see a need for a separate group for Beekeepers(hobbyist) since I too like to exchange information about their care. I currently have one hive and hope to make it two by dividing it this year. Let me know what I need to do to encourage it's formation. Tim Titus From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf Wed Feb 9 18:17:15 EST 1994 Article: 26375 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. References: <1994Feb5.160628.19257@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 23:04:13 GMT Lines: 24 >I missed Mike's original posting, but I'd like to add my support for a >group for recreational beekeepers. Considering all the groups that _do_ >exist, I must admit I was a bit surprised that such a group was not already >around. I have had a single colony for a couple of years, so my experience >is limited, but I'd be happy to share it, and would hope I could learn a >lot from folks who've been in the game longer (or more intensively). > >-- >John Taylor >rohvm1.mah48d@rohmhaas.com John and anyone else who wants to ask bee or beekeeping questions send mail to: bee-l@uacsc2.albany.edu. If you want to subscribe to the list send mail to: listserve@uacsc2.albany.edu letter should read: SUBSCRIBE BEE-L JOHN DOE "JOHN DOE" of course being your name. Adam -- =============================================================================== Adam Finkelstein VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801 703-433-1006 (V) 703-434-5607 (Fax) 703-564-4394 (Pager) adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu |Bees To Please| ================================================================================ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!sgiblab!twg.com!eco.twg.com!psinntp!charon!rickr.khis.com!user Wed Feb 9 18:17:16 EST 1994 Article: 26376 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!sgiblab!twg.com!eco.twg.com!psinntp!charon!rickr.khis.com!user From: rickr@khis.com (Rick Ratliff) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: root@khis.com (Operator) Organization: Kodak Health Imaging Systems References: <2ijj90$2qd@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> <1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk> <2ilkat$bui@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 23:07:26 GMT Lines: 52 In article <2ilkat$bui@reznor.larc.nasa.gov>, mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) wrote: > In article <1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk>, ame@crosfield.co.uk (Alison Eve) writes: > |> A friend of mind always suggests planting cat nip (the stuff cats love) > |> > |> in somebody elses garden near by. That way the cats will prefer the > |> > |> other garden!!!!! > |> > |> How you achieve the planting needs to be left to the imagination. > |> > |> I would also be interested in real solutions as our garden is > |> > |> so full of the cat poo, that I will not let my son play out side > |> > |> It makes me so angry that there is nothing that can be done > |> > |> and it is us and our son that suffer. > |> > |> -- > |> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > |> Alison Eve > |> Crosfield Electronics Ltd > |> (0442) 230000 x3446 > > > It just occurred to me that we had an outdoor cat when I was a child, > and we had to quit playing in the sandpile because the cat preferred > to use that for a potty. So... I wonder if you put a pile of sand in > a remote corner of your lot, the cats would confine their toileting to > that preferred area?? Better yet, put the sandpile in your neighbor's > yard--the ones that own the offensive cats. > > Melissa Sorry for responding to a week old message, but it seems that my news feed has slowed. Anyway, let's not kill little furry things, even though I don't like some of them very much. You should be mulching your beds with something. Try pecan shells, the little sharp edges don't mame or kill, but they do make it quite uncomfortable for little cat paws. Rick Ratliff | "...if we travel by Objective Software Solutions, Inc. | dragonfly" -- Jimi Hendrix P.O. Box 974, Rowlett, Texas 75030-0974 | (214) 412-5419 | Opinions expressed are mine e-mail: rickr@khis.com | and not those of KHIS. on contract @ Kodak Health Imaging Systems | From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson Wed Feb 9 18:17:17 EST 1994 Article: 26377 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Blood Orange Sources? Message-ID: <04.2d55f48c@axolotl> Date: 06 Feb 94 15:18:48 CST Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City Sender: news@axolotl.omahug.org (UUscan 1.10) Followup-To: rec.gardens Lines: 45 mothra@cup.portal.com (Elise - Swope) writes: > Does anyone know of a mail-order source for blood orange trees? I'm > looking > for a sourcee which ships bare-root (as we live in Hawaii and can not > bring > in anything with soil). PLANT IT HAWAII, INC. [CAT - FREE] PO Box 388 Kurtistown, HI 96760 Tel: +1-808-966-6633 FAX: +1-808-966-6900 ---------- OREGON EXOTICS [CAT - $2] Rare Fruiit Nursery 1065 Messinger Grants Passa, OR 97527 ---------- FOUR WINDS GROWERS [CAT - SASE] PO Box 3538 Fremont, CA 94539 ---------- EXOTICA RARE FRUIT NURSERY [CAT - ???] 2508-B East Vista Way PO Box 160 Vista, CA 92083 Tel: +1-619-724-9093 ---------- WILLITS & NEWCOMB, INC. [CAT - FREE] PO Box 428 Arvin, CA 93203 Tel: +1-805-327-9345 FAX: +1-805-366-6419 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Bob Batson bob.batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org | E-mail address bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org | Backup address ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Under the most controlled conditions, the experimental apparatus will do exactly as it pleases. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Wed Feb 9 18:17:18 EST 1994 Article: 26378 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Transplanting people... Message-ID: Date: Mon, 07 Feb 94 21:33:36 EST References: <19940206.23470855.katew@delphi.com> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 29 KATEW@delphi.com writes: > Yikes! I'm moving next month from Portland to Athens, Georgia; it's not a > zone change, funnily enough, but it WILL be a culture and climate shock for > all concerned. My question: for years, I've relied on Sunset magazine and > their _Western Garden Book_ for garden tips and advice. Is there a comparabl > magazine and book for the South? > > Any tips for the safe and fruitful transplanting of Oregonians will be gladly > noted (the Oregonian in question lived in Chicago for four years but never ha > dirt to call my own, so that's not a relevant transplant experience). > > Kate > Kate, Athens, GA? Lucky you! Be sure to remember the names Allen Armitage and Michael Dirr, and also the names Frick and Frack. Become a member of the Atlanta Botanical Garden and visit the Vines. While the actual USDA zones will be the same or similar, gardening in the south is quite different from gardening in the northwest. It gets _really_ hot in the summer time, and plants that you are accustomed to growing in full sun will do much better in partial or full shade here. That's just one for instance, not an unbreakable rule, by the way. You'll have fun adapting to the climate of your new home; actually it will be much easier than if you had chosen to move to VT or NM. Good luck! Garry Williams g.williams42@genie.geis.com RTC Coordinator for the GEnie Garden RT From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Wed Feb 9 18:17:19 EST 1994 Article: 26379 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sweetbriar Message-ID: <2XqeHc2w165w@salzo.Cary.NC.US> Date: Mon, 07 Feb 94 21:47:36 EST References: <2j5kr9$nem@apollo.it.luc.edu> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 28 jmcnult@orion.it.luc.edu (John A. Mcnulty) writes: > carlson@shrsys.hslc.org wrote: > > : Can anyone provide me with a source in the US for a rose called > : Sweetbriar? It is also known as Eglantine. > > > Roses of Yesterday and Today, Inc. > 802 Brown's Valley Road They are very persnickety > Watsonville, Ca. USA 95076 about receiving a $3.00 fee > 408-724-3537 for their catalogue and claim > Fax 408-724-1408 they don't "share" their mail > list. > Plants sent to most states are > $6 each. This is all from > a 1991 catalogue and I never got around to ordering anything, so > I don't know about their service or quality. By the way, where do > you live? It is supposed to be one of the hardiest of roses. > Patty, not John I have ordered from RY&T many times before and have always been satisfied with the quality of the merchandise that I have received. Their phone order number is 408-724-2755. The 1994 price for Eglantine is $9.50. Garry Williams g.williams42@genie.geis.com RTC Coordinator for the GEnie Garden RT From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Wed Feb 9 18:17:20 EST 1994 Article: 26380 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RE: Sweetbriar Message-ID: <3eReHc3w165w@salzo.Cary.NC.US> Date: Mon, 07 Feb 94 21:57:49 EST References: <7FEB94.16043065@shrsys.hslc.org> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 28 carlson@shrsys.hslc.org writes: > > Patty: > > I live in south-central Pennsylvania, where normally winters aren't > too bad, but January 1994 goes down in the record books for coldest > January ever. I'm very concerned about my roses, which include > hybrid teas, floribundas, and several David Austin roses. I mulched > them well in the fall, but they've had no protection from the sub-zero > air and windchill temperatures last month. Does anyone out there have > any experience with roses in this type of unusual weather situation? > > Thanks, and eagerly waiting for Spring! > > Karen I think this winter will go down as a record for most of us back east! My hybrid teas, floribundas and my one David Austin rose seems to have taken the cold well, even though I didn't mulch them (we don't usually mulch for the winter here in NC), but I sure am worried about my teas, chinas and Noisettes! Roses being the hardy critters that they are, though, if there's anything left of them at all, they'll bounce back. Looking forward to Spring here, too! Garry Williams g.williams42@genie.geis.com RTC Coordinator for the GEnie Garden RT From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv Wed Feb 9 18:17:21 EST 1994 Article: 26381 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!hemlock.cray.com!gwv From: gwv@hemlock.cray.com (George Walter VandenBerghe) Subject: Are my hyacinths dead? Message-ID: <1994Feb7.094457.7625@hemlock.cray.com> Originator: gwv@hemlock Lines: 26 Sender: gwv@hemlock (George Walter VandenBerghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: hemlock Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Date: 7 Feb 94 09:44:57 CST This fall I got some hyacinth bulbs but I didn't get around to planting them in forcing pots till early winter (Dec 10 or so) I put them in my unheated garage for chilling. During the frigid blasts of Mid January, it got down to 13 in ghe garage and the pots froze solid but I didn't worry about it because these are moderately hardy bulbs. Now in early February I have brought them into my 60 degree cellar but they show no signs of growth although they are firm (unlike the few pots that were outside in -5F cold. which turned squishy and obbiously dead) Except for the frigid blast, temperatures have been mostly in the low to mid 30s in the garage. I dug one up and observed that the roots looked dead or at least not very healthy. However the bulb was firm and the green tip appeared healthy though very tight and small. This is all the more upsetting since rodents ate almost all of my forcing tulips. Will the hyacinths recover? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!gopher.cs.uofs.edu!jaguar.uofs.edu!wallacec1 Wed Feb 9 18:17:24 EST 1994 Article: 26382 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!gopher.cs.uofs.edu!jaguar.uofs.edu!wallacec1 From: wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: good/bad taste survey Date: 8 Feb 94 00:55:50 EST Organization: University of Scranton Lines: 11 Message-ID: <1994Feb8.005550.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: jaguar.cs.uofs.edu Obviously, anyone interested in creating a garden wants it to be beautiful. What I would like to know is, what do you consider to be "tasteful", when creating a garden. Specifically: 1. What is your definition of good taste? 2. What five things do you consider to be in very good taste in a garden 3. What five things do you consider to be in the worst taste? I've been researching this subject for several years for a possible book, and would appreciate nay input you can offer. Reply here, or e-mail me. Carol Wallace Wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Wed Feb 9 18:17:25 EST 1994 Article: 26383 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Transplanting people... Message-ID: Date: Tue, 08 Feb 94 00:15:32 EST References: <1994Feb7.185626.9894@brtph560.bnr.ca> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 19 > In article <19940206.23470855.katew@delphi.com>, KATEW@delphi.com writes: > |> Yikes! I'm moving next month from Portland to Athens, Georgia; it's not a > |> zone change, funnily enough, but it WILL be a culture and climate shock fo > |> all concerned. My question: for years, I've relied on Sunset magazine an > |> their _Western Garden Book_ for garden tips and advice. Is there a compar > |> magazine and book for the South? > |> > |> Any tips for the safe and fruitful transplanting of Oregonians will be gla > |> noted (the Oregonian in question lived in Chicago for four years but never > |> dirt to call my own, so that's not a relevant transplant experience). Good books to read are anything by Elizabeth Lawrence, or edited collections of her writings. A Southern Garden is an excellent beginning. and although you're moving to GA, a magazine called Carolina Gardener might prove of interest to you. Garry Williams g.williams42@genie.geis.com RTC Coordinator for the GEnie Garden RT From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke Wed Feb 9 18:17:26 EST 1994 Article: 26384 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Clematis? Message-ID: <1994Feb8.095937.4114@lsl.co.uk> Date: 8 Feb 94 09:59:35 +0100 References: Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 26 In article , hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > > A local discount store is offering some very nice looking boxed sets of > Clematis... The plants are potted with healthy-looky vines beginning to > creep up a pole in the center... However, the instructions say to take > it home and plant it outside right away. I would like to get the plants > (great price!) but we have a couple of months of wintery weather ahead yet. > > (1) Can Clematis be planted when it is still freezing out? > > (2) Can Clematis be nurtured indoors until more clement (pun intended) > weather? I'm in two minds about this one. Over here in the UK, my Clematis (jackmanii - the fairly common late flowering blue one) often starts to grow new shoots, only to have the tips frosted. It isn't fatal though - they just shoot again from lower down. So... For option (1) - the sooner it is out there, the sooner it can start to grow new roots and get established. But then the young shoots may be killed by frost. For option (2) - I'd keep it as cool as possible if you do this. You don't want lots of weak green growth that will be too much strain (from the water point of view) on a small pot of roots. Would need to be well watered when eventually planted out. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke Wed Feb 9 18:17:28 EST 1994 Article: 26385 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Clematis? Message-ID: <1994Feb8.102232.4115@lsl.co.uk> Date: 8 Feb 94 10:22:32 +0100 References: Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 13 In article , hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) writes: > > Please reply be direct e-mail if possible, my BB indexing is messed up > and no guarantee I'll be able to read a posted response... See also my post in answer to the question. My attempt to reply by direct e-mail had just bounced - User unknown. It sounds like Gary might as well have said "Please don't reply at all, as I won't be able to read it". If anyone is in touch with him, then try to let him know that we are trying to reply! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!eff!cs.umd.edu!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:17:29 EST 1994 Article: 26386 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!eff!cs.umd.edu!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail From: tillman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Fred Tillman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Transplanting people... Date: 8 Feb 1994 07:36:08 -0500 Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 1 Message-ID: <2j80voINN1qq@oasys.dt.navy.mil> References: <19940206.23470855.katew@delphi.com> Reply-To: tillman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Fred Tillman) NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil Try "Southern Living". You will like Georgia. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:17:30 EST 1994 Article: 26387 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail From: tillman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Fred Tillman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: mini tillers Date: 8 Feb 1994 07:49:17 -0500 Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 5 Message-ID: <2j81odINN3p7@oasys.dt.navy.mil> References: <2j5j3h$1aa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> <2j5qbq$79i@skates.gsfc.nasa.gov> Reply-To: tillman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Fred Tillman) NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil Call or visit your local John Deere dealer and check out the 425 for a super mower and tiller combo. I have the 4 wheel steering option and I have to fight with my wife to get to drive it. I don't have the tiller yet but it is available. We have the optional 60" mower deck. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan Wed Feb 9 18:17:31 EST 1994 Article: 26388 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan From: nathan@seldon.foundation.tricon.com (Number 6) Subject: Shade vegetables Message-ID: <1994Feb8.032409.16455@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> Organization: Triicon Systems, Inc., Lompoc, CA References: <26JAN199417312010@vax2.concordia.ca> <2ihq9r$icb@netnews.upenn.edu> Date: Tue, 08 Feb 1994 03:24:08 GMT Lines: 97 In article <2igiqk$emc@charm.magnus.acs.ohiostate.edu> you write: >The problem is that this area will be in full shade, since the rear >of the house faces due north. I am guessing that I can grow lettuce >and parsley there, but what about onions, New Zealand spinach, other >herbs, etc.? > >Anyone got good ideas for veggie/herb plants that have a chance of >surviving in full shade? > Being in Ohio may make a difference, but I have had great success with shade growing a few vegatables here in CA. I originally did this because my weather (zone 16, Sunset Western Gardening book) is a microclimate and is subject to wild temperature fluctuations during the year (some winter days will be 50 degrees, some 75 or 80 degrees, same with summer.) I had a hot spell right when my lettuce was reaching perfection it was 80+ for seven days in October and it bolted after the first day. So, I moved all my lettuce to the shade. Works great. I also grow radishes, carrots, Brocolli (the heads aren't big, more like side shoots, but quite tasty), Cauliflower (fertilize plenty and keep bugs OFF!), Brussel Sprouts (the sprouts are quite small, about 75% store bought size) and an artichoke (hasn't born anything yet, it was a very small plant when I bought it, but it is thriving). I grow the artichoke, Brocolli and Brussel sprouts next to a fence in between my house. It is about 8ft. to 10 ft. wide and only gets about two hours of sun in the late afternoon. The carrots, lettuce, Cauliflower and radishes are grown with eastern exposure but they *never* get full sun (well, maybe an hour just after the sun rises). They do rather well in that location. I have a detached garage, it looks kind of like this: Sun Rises here in winter * | || | | | | | | F | | | | | | House | || Garage | | | | | | | V | | | | | | | | | | (sun/heat lovers here) | | | v | SOUTH | | WEST Where F=flowers, V=vegetables. The place for the artichoke, brocolli and brussell sprouts is on the left of this drawing, in between the house and the fence. I don't know how much all of this will apply to your situation, but seeds are *very* inexpensive (don't buy nursery brocolli or cauliflower too many bugs my seeded brocolli and seeded cauliflower is 100% bug free I was lucky to plant them in widely separate areas). Did you also know that cauliflower is *sweet* with a slightly lemony acid taste? I didn't! Until I ate my first fresh cauliflower. What a delight. Now, If I can only get crop rotation down to keep vegetables in constant supply :) Oh, and I could give advice on onions if one thing hadn't happened I've got a gopher with a taste for onions. It ate all six of my western exposure onions (where the WEST is above maybe 3 hours of sun due to a fence in the way and the house in the way). Just 3/4" holes in the ground where the onions *were*. I hope the gopher's wife wouldn't kiss him that night! ;) I sent private email as well, but wanted to make an addition to my post perhaps a small amount of supplemental lighting would work? None of my "shade" vegetables sees more than three hours of indirect sun each day a few normal (read cheap) flourescent tubes may do the trick. (I use the flourescent tubes for my seedlings in lieu of more expensive fullspectrum lights and such...if I were growing orchids, I would splurge, but for seedlings, normal flourescents seem to be just fine). They'd have to be pretty low to the ground, though. *********************************************************************** Nathan D. Lane, VP Triicon Systems. Lompoc, CA (805) 7331849 NaN != 6, 6 == 1. I am not a number, I am a free list! I'm a programmer my computers are more valuable than my cars. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!dp653 Wed Feb 9 18:17:33 EST 1994 Article: 26389 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!dp653 From: dp653@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Michele Torcasio Gorse) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Urea for composting leave Date: 8 Feb 1994 14:12:09 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 29 Message-ID: <2j86jp$npm@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: eeyore.ins.cwru.edu Hello Mr. Compost~, I made thru the ether-waves landing right smack on a warm compost pile....glad to be here all that jazz. My first message is *lost* in space somewhere..got 'dissed' for no known reason...maybe too long on one screenful I have been in heaven since we moved 6 years ago and have our own land, about 1/100th of an acre I believe-well it is pretty small, only 11 foot of backyard..I compost under my kitchen window. It has worked well, even with the boys not wanting to take the time to come in to relieve themselves, use the compost pile as a not-so-private latrine, (they forget I am in the kitchen most of the time)! I have chased city shredding trucks down the street to beg for eir load...sometimes I am lucky and they take me seriousenough to dump their goodies in my yard. The utility company once blessed me with 10 cu. yards of wonderful mulch which lasted 3 years and the trees loved it too. If all goes well we will be building a house on a 10+ acre site only 5.5 miles from where we live now. Most of it has been farmed, but there is a bog in the back and some trees that have not been loggedin 40+ years. I am overwhelmed at the thought of landscaping such a large area...I am so used to small areas...guess I'll have one hell of a victory garden..and a large compost pile! Got to run ,michele in ohio From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!unogate!mvb.saic.com!typhoon.osg.saic.com!wonka!mark Wed Feb 9 18:17:34 EST 1994 Article: 26390 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!news.service.uci.edu!unogate!mvb.saic.com!typhoon.osg.saic.com!wonka!mark From: mark@wonka.osg.saic.com (Mark Boriack) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Another Orchid ? Date: 8 Feb 1994 12:48:51 GMT Organization: SAIC Lines: 81 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j81nj$5s9@typhoon.osg.saic.com> References: Reply-To: mark@osg.saic.com NNTP-Posting-Host: wonka.osg.saic.com In article , Lorraine Blasik writes: > Hi all, > > I am hoping you guys can give me some more good advice on the care of my > orchid. I aquired it about 4 months ago and it was in bloom. Last > month the last of the blossoms fell off awnd I cut the stem back. It > seems now the leaves leaves are turning yellow and falling off. I only > water from the bottom and only when I can't see water in the cup. It is > in my office window and gets indirect sun (when we get sun - Pittsburgh, > PA). There is always air circulation in the office,because of the > ceiling vent, but it is located opposite of where the plant sits > > ANy suggestions, comments would be helpful, > > Thanks -Lori Glad to hear that you are growing an orchid. Sorry about your problems. It is difficult to diagnose the problem without more information such as what kind of orchid it is. So I will make very general statements based on what types of orchids beginners are most likely to have. As with all plants, watering is critical; and this is especially true for orchids. Many orchids are epiphytic - they grow stuck to the sides of trees and anything else that they can cling to. They do this for support, to get to the growing conditions that they require. This gives you a clue as to their water requirements. They should be soaked thouroughly, and then be allowed to dry out. How dry is they key. For most orchids (except those from regions with extended dry seasons) the potting mix should be allowed to dry until it is "just moist", and then drenched again. Depending on the condition of the mix, and the conditions in the growing area, this usually translates to watering thouroughly once a week or so. Your mileage may vary. Most importantly, most orchids do not like wet feet. It is not a good idea to leave the pot standing in water. Some people will raise the plants above a tray of water to increase local humidity, but the pot never touches the water. Plants with constantly wet potting mix will loose their roots in a hurry and will be on an express train to death through dehydration. They will require special treatment to have any chance at a comeback. I recommend that if your potting mix has been kept really wet, you should dig enough mix away so that you can check the condition of the roots. Note that the top part of the mix can be dry, and the bottom part soggy, depending on the potting medium. If you have not been keeping it soggy, and the roots are okay, then the most likely problem is that you have not been giving it enough water. Take it to the sink and give it a good soaking - it is probably dehydrated. Note how dehydration ultimatly gets you at both ends of the watering spectrum - that's the challenge. There is an orchid list digest on the Internet: To subscribe to the orchids list digest, send a mail message to MAILSERV@SCUACC.SCU.EDU (Internet), or MAILSERV@SCU (BITNET). In the body of the message type the line: SUBSCRIBE ORCHIDS To unsubscribe from the orchids list,send a mail message to MAILSERV@SCUACC.SCU.EDU (Internet), or MAILSERV@SCU (BITNET). In the body of the message type the line: UNSUBSCRIBE ORCHIDS To send contributions to the orchids, send a your mail messages to ORCHIDS@SCUACC.SCU.EDU (Internet) or ORCHIDS@SCU (BITNET). -- mark@osg.saic.com Pereant, inquit, qui ante nos nostra dixerunt. "Confound those who have said our remarks before us." -- Aelius Donatus From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!MOLAISRJ@esvx11.es.dupont.com Wed Feb 9 18:17:35 EST 1994 Article: 26391 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!MOLAISRJ@esvx11.es.dupont.com From: molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com Subject: Re: plants that repel cats Message-ID: <1994Feb8.135128.17893@es.dupont.com> Sender: news@es.dupont.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: esvx11.es.dupont.com Reply-To: molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com Organization: DuPont (Opinions are those of the writer only) References: <2iopaf$slf@morrow.stanford.edu> <43@crash.win.net>,<2j6511$6dj@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 13:51:28 GMT Lines: 49 In article <2j6511$6dj@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil>, u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) writes: >Not that this relates to the current thread/flame skirmish, but I remember >years ago reading about a lady with an outdoor pool full of koi, etc. >A neighbor's cat kept coming over and going fishing. Her solution was to >build a small "teeter-totter" where the cat would position itself. The cat >would see a fish, move towards the pool, thereby shifting weight on the >teeter-totter, and spill itself ino the water! The cat soon gave up on that >pool and went to other pursuits. Don't know how that idea could help here, >without lots of work/investment. But it was fun to remember her solution. > >Of course, he could surround his garden with several parallel strands of >electric fence, spaced 6" or so, so the cat couldn't easily move between >strands, and put enough so the cat couldn't jump over the wires. Could >make the last one (closest to the garden) higher, as a further jump >boundary. > > > +---------------------------------+ > |+-------------------------------+| > ||+-----------------------------+|| > ||| ||| > ||| garden area ||| > ||| ||| > ||+-----------------------------+|| > |+-------------------------------+| > +---------------------------------+ > >Of course, he would need to leave a path for himself. Or considering *his* >solution, maybe not :) . > > >Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil >Computer Scientist >Information Technology Laboratory >U.S. Army Corps of Engineers > >"select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" > I kinda like the idea of the electric fence. I have some wire, so it wouldn't cost me anything. I know enough about electrical work, so I could do it myself. I have an extra 220volt circuit in my electrical box. I could then watch as the cats were fried. Just one thing!!! Do cats compost well???????????????? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.columbia.edu!bonjour.cc.columbia.edu!adm1 Wed Feb 9 18:17:37 EST 1994 Article: 26392 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.columbia.edu!bonjour.cc.columbia.edu!adm1 From: adm1@bonjour.cc.columbia.edu (A Deborah Malmud) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: flys and dirt Date: 8 Feb 1994 14:46:59 GMT Organization: Columbia University Lines: 8 Message-ID: <2j88l3$qfs@apakabar.cc.columbia.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bonjour.cc.columbia.edu I have recently planted parsley (thanks to all of you who respoded to my questions about that)). I've noticed little black flys buzzing around the dirt and around my apartment. Some seedlings are starting to pop up but I'm worried that these flys are harmful to them and to my other plants. What are they? How can I get rid From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ah968 Wed Feb 9 18:17:38 EST 1994 Article: 26393 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ah968 From: ah968@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (L. D. Sitwell) Subject: Clay Soil Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: ah968@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (L. D. Sitwell) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 10:59:18 GMT Lines: 16 I'm a novice gardener and am somewhat perplexed by the correct way to proceed with my perennial border. We have about 6 or 7 inches of top soil over a layer of very heavy clay. Should I: a. simply add more topsoil? b. dig sand into the soil? c. remove as much of the clay as I can and replace it wwith something that drains more easily? -- ============================================================================= Lucian Sitwell | There are two types of people in this world Ottawa, ON, Canada | ---- those who divide everything into two ah968@freenet.carleton.ca | groups and those that don't!!! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!panix!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:17:40 EST 1994 Article: 26394 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!panix!not-for-mail From: fishman@panix.com (Harvey Fishman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Gesneriads &c. Date: 8 Feb 1994 11:03:36 -0500 Organization: Flatulent Flatlands Flea Flickers Lines: 17 Message-ID: <2j8d4o$n4q@panix.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: panix.com Time for my yearly question - does anyone know of a newsgroup or mailing list for Gloxinias (Sinningia Speciosa) and/or other Gesneriads? I note that there is now a mailing list for cacti and other succulents; I am hoping that Gesneriads are no longer out in the cold (and they is tropical plants, so they do NOT like that kind of weather. ;-)) Thanks. Harvey -- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Harvey Fishman | There is no greater failure than fishman@panix.com | that of making an enemy. 718-258-7276 | From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!othello.ucdavis.edu!ez042951 Wed Feb 9 18:17:41 EST 1994 Article: 26395 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!othello.ucdavis.edu!ez042951 From: ez042951@othello.ucdavis.edu (Chris Haskell) Subject: Re: bugs on cactus Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Guru) Organization: University of California, Davis X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <39240008@opus.hpl.hp.com> <760468109snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <2j6obo$8f5@news.u.washington.edu> Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 16:35:08 GMT Lines: 19 : Another easy-to-prepare preparation to kill bugs is oil spray. Mix one : cup of wesson oil with one Tablespoon of dishwashing detergent. This is the : stock solution. To make spray, add 1-2 teaspons to a cup of water. You : can also modify this with nicotine (boil some cigarette butts in the : water first), or hot pepper. If you boil hot pepper, make sure the area : is well-ventilated, otherwise you will experience a mild version of : pepper spray. Not pleasant. I know this thread is specifically on the subject of cacti...but a bit of a warning regarding using cigarette butts in garden sprays. Members of the pepper and tomato families can catch any Tobacco Mosaic Virus that may be lurking in those used cigarettes. In fact, when a smoker is dealing with these plants, they should wash their hands after smoking. I think you're safe with cactus, however...probably not TMV sensitive. Chris UC Davis From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Wed Feb 9 18:17:42 EST 1994 Article: 26396 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Composting Newspaper? From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4735.2552.0N41F57A@gcbb.granite.mn.org> References: <2j5dq1INNa9g@emory.mathcs.emory.edu> Date: Mon, 7 Feb 94 22:41:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 50 Subject: Re: Composting Newspaper? Vicki asks: V>This brings up my question -- what about cardboard cereal boxes and >similar things, can they be added to the compost pile? Does anyone >in the U.S. use leaded ink these days? What about tissues? Any danger >of spreading disease? V>Also, could you give us more details about the soaking method. I've been >adding cardboard tubes and paper towels to my compost and just shredding >them a bit. The soaking method sounds better. I find cardboard and corrugated containers to pulp more easily than paper. To get these or any other papers to pulp, just put them into a wheel barrow or trash can and fill with water. I let them soak for about a week. They can be stirred with a hoe occasionally, like mixing cement, and if you have a cement mixer, all the better. During the summer you can go through the pulp with a tiller if you have the ambition. Just spread the soaked paper and till it lightly without incorporating it into the soil. Chopping with a machete~ also works. But if you mix the paper sparingly into the compost mix, trying to inoculate the paper with old compost, it decomposes just fine. The point is to get it thoroughly wet until it softens, and then treat it like other "brown" matter in the pile. The paper exposed to the air does dry out and has to be re-incorporated. This is one advantage to the sealed plastic type bins; they do not dry out as quickly. If you are *really* hard core, order LOTS of junk mail so you have more material for the worms and the compost pile. It comes free delivered by an agent of the United States Government! Lead plates have been banned in the US and Canada for over 15 years; there never were lead based inks used. Tissues are OK for the home pile as long as they are table scraps etc from the kitchen. I would be concerned about tissues from the bathroom. Save the disposable diapers, meat scraps, oils, dairy and the rest for the source separated composting program that your enlightened community should be initiating. Mr Compost~~~ Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 7th - Recycle! Today's Garbage is tomorrow's America. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Wed Feb 9 18:17:43 EST 1994 Article: 26397 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Composting Newspaper? From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4736.2552.0N41F57B@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Tue, 8 Feb 94 00:47:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 79 ---------------------------------------- Steve D writes: SD>Jim, I am interested in hearing (reading :) ) your comments concerning an >article in National Gardening magazine approximetly a year ago >(April/May '93?) about a market gardener in Portland, Oregon, who grows >crops on top of active compost heaps. SD>My question is: have you ever tried to do this, and how well did it work? SD>Have you read this article? Nope, didn't see (hear*}) the article. But I have grown numerous crops directly in compost and have had mixed results. The easiest to grow are volunteer squash, cucumbers, melons, and pumpkins. Potatoes are my favorite and my best potatoes have come from the compost bin while the ones in the garden languished. Carrots have gotten fat like beets and I have had no luck with corn and tomatoes. The tomatoes got long and leafy setting few fruit. I have had some success growing sprouts, even temperamental radishes in worm boxes. Wheat grass in worm boxes works well if you like wheat grass in your vegetable juices. I guess I have to ask what time of year the planting is, how mature the compost, what is being planted, and so forth. I make mostly hot, active piles where nothing can grow in 131F+ temperatures. In a curing pile, where the pile has cooled, it might be more feasible to plant something. So *my* compost piles which are out of the active bin in 3-4 weeks are a different type of composting pile where people let stuff sit for up to three years doing little to aid the process. These passive piles might be better for planting in, but I don't make passive piles anymore so can't speak from experience. Some general rules of thumb why I do not recommend planting in compost piles. The first is that unstable compost can decompose seeds and cause phytotoxicity in seedlings. The radish germination test is a common method of determining compost maturity. Plant radishes in pure compost and count the mortality. The more survivors, the more mature; few seedlings, the compost is still raw. So why plant in an environment that is perhaps likely to kill the plant? Another rule is that plants do not need pure organic matter to thrive. This is not to say that too much of a good thing is a bad thing, but that plants need minerals as much as they need organic derived nutrients. In this regard, the old ag.extension's tale about "add soil" to the compost pile has some meager validity. If you are going to plant directly in the compost, which I don't recommend, add soil (which I don't recommend) to compensate for your first error. Soils in virgin prairies and deciduous forests reach sustainable levels of organic matter around 7%. There is little reason to have a soil much richer. Peat and animal manures will be around 80% organic matter, most yard trimming and household composts will be around 50% or even less. It seems that we add soil in roots and scrape it from the ground to increase the mineral content. Adding 3" of compost to 9" of soil is my tried and true recommendation, also never adding more than 1/3 compost to potting soils or planter mixes. Lots of compost will have a soil loosening benefit like sand which is why the potatoes can do well in old compost. But sand is better and the compost will go three times as far spread around. I have also noticed that weeds growing in compost piles take the moisture out very quickly and a dry pile tends to attract ants. A dry pile is one that has stopped decomposing. As I look at the various methodologies for managing organic residuals, I try to emphasize processes where the soil grows plants and the composting system stabilizes organic matter. Mixing the two together is fundamentally counter-productive in the long run. Mr Compost~~~ Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 8th - When an agnostic dies, does he go to the Great Perhaps? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Wed Feb 9 18:17:44 EST 1994 Article: 26398 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: compost From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4737.2552.0N41F57C@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Tue, 8 Feb 94 00:47:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 51 ---------------------------------------- Bill C writes >Subject: compost B>Hey Jim, B>I burn use my fireplace in the winter frequently. >I burn mostly oak and autralian pine. I bag all the >residule ash and save it. Is this ash good stuff to >throw into my compost pile? Ashes in the compost? Perhaps years ago the answer would have been an easy "sure, it adds minerals and calcium". But we live in a different era and it is not always ordinary wood that goes into the fireplace. Many people are burning household trash (usually illegally) and the toxins from partially burned plastic are a serious problem whereas that same plastic is an ordinary litter problem if not burned. Wood ashes can also be dangerous if ANY pressure treated wood is burned. The concentration of arsenic can be over 3000 parts per million, enough to kill a large animal that eats a little or can cause cancer if breathed or gets on the skin. Since burning treated wood is rapidly becoming one of the most serious environmental problems, perhaps as great as asbestos in insulation and lead in paint, few professionals will offer a blanket "OK" to using wood ash in the garden. Ordinary wood is a different matter and is safe to use in ratios up to 10% in the compost pile. It is not considered a source of nitrogen, usually P and K and other minerals. As far as coal ash goes, I know of no state that allows it to be used as a soil amendment on a commercial scale. Both fly and bottom ash from coal plants contain non beneficial levels of heavy metals and there are also concerns about non-volatilized hydrocarbons. Ash in all forms tends to be alkaline and in nature is considered to be a buffer against acid rain. Use caution if you burn paper. Regular paper is not a problem, but plastic laminates in the paper can be. So if you know where the ashes came from, they can be used beneficially in the compost pile or spread as a light top dressing over the soil, about 1/8th inch, or 1/2" tilled in. If the soil is already alkaline, they may make the alkalinity problem worse. Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 8th - Nitrate: Lower than the day rate. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov!user Wed Feb 9 18:17:45 EST 1994 Article: 26399 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!lerc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov!user From: cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (Marty Zimmerman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mulching cloth question Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Tue, 08 Feb 1994 12:00:21 -0600 Organization: NASA Lewis R. C. (Analex) Lines: 19 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov Several of my beds are mulched with a layer of mulch cloth covered with organic mulch (mostly bark nuggets). This situation has existed for many years. The result is a 2" thick layer of compost (decayed bark) between the nuggets and the mulching cloth. I know the nutrients from this compost leach into the soil. My question is this. Given that the beds are filled with a heavy, clay-based soil, would it be better (in terms of drainage, friability [?], etc.) to remove the cloth and dig in this compost? The beds contains shrubs (yews, ribes, rhododendrons, euonymous) and pachysandra. Thanks in advance, Marty _____________________________________________________________________________ Marty Zimmerman cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov Analex Corp. - NASA Lewis Research Center Cleveland, Ohio USA Zone 6 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!lkinard Wed Feb 9 18:17:46 EST 1994 Article: 26400 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!lkinard From: lkinard@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Lyric Kinard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: transplanting people Message-ID: Date: Tue, 08 Feb 94 11:13:57 EST Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 16 Moving from the northwest to the southeast will be a big change but a fun one! I moved from the rocky mountains (SLC) to North Carolina peidmont...hard to get much more disparate climates than that. I've been amazed at the things that grow here and love the area...am in training to be a master gardener for the county esxtension service and learning all kinds of new things. I loved Sunset too and actually kept my subscription. The travel and gardening do little more for me now than make me homesick but the recipies are still the best. There is a comperable mag. for this area...Southern Living. It's published by the same folks as Sunset, has a lot of the same articles even. A friend of mine (also a western transplant) has a subscription and we share our mags so we get both the southern and western recipies, garden tips, etc. Enjoy your move! -Lyric From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!festival!dcs.ed.ac.uk!iro Wed Feb 9 18:17:47 EST 1994 Article: 26401 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!festival!dcs.ed.ac.uk!iro From: iro@dcs.ed.ac.uk (Irene Orr) Subject: Meyer lemon trees in the UK Message-ID: Sender: cnews@dcs.ed.ac.uk (UseNet News Admin) Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Edinburgh Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 17:23:44 GMT Lines: 8 Has anyone information on sources for Meyer lemon trees in the UK? Or indeed any recommendations for fruit tree suppliers, bearing in mind that Edinburgh is a good deal cooler most of the time than the south of England. I am particularly fond of plum varieties such as medlars and damsons, not so keen on apples , esp. as they would attract all the local kids. Also any information on growing them in a rather cool, damp climate, Irene From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!think.com!paperboy.osf.org!paperboy!macrakis Wed Feb 9 18:17:49 EST 1994 Article: 26402 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!think.com!paperboy.osf.org!paperboy!macrakis From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Norway Maple roots Date: 8 Feb 94 11:00:22 Organization: OSF Research Institute Lines: 16 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: lakatos.osf.org I am starting a garden in my small city plot (1000 ft2). The only existing plantings are several mature (60'+) Norway Maples (Acer pseudoplatanoides (sp?)). I am having them pruned heavily to let some sun in, but I still wonder about the roots, which I understand are very shallow and compete with garden plants. To what extent can I cut roots when digging beds without killing the trees? Do I have to rely exclusively on raised beds? Does landscape fabric help keep the tree roots out of beds? Any other hints? Thanks -s From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco!math.ncsu.edu!crsc Wed Feb 9 18:17:50 EST 1994 Article: 26403 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco!math.ncsu.edu!crsc From: crsc@math.ncsu.edu (CRSC Account) Subject: Re: Cats in yard... Message-ID: <1994Feb8.164553.9196@ncsu.edu> Sender: news@ncsu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: North Carolina State University References: Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 16:45:53 GMT Lines: 39 In article hotzc@columbia.dsu.edu (CHRISTOPHER HOTZ) writes: >I find it remarkable that no one mentioned using a low-powered bb/pellet >pistol or gun. A number of them will only give the animal a good sting. >This probably has legal implications though and therefore would not be the >greatest things to try. Generally I don't have any problems with cat though >and if I did I would first try to work it out with the neighbors or find >some natural repellant. The gun method would be a final resort and if that >didn't work then...... well maybe a .22 would work... > I have been reading some of these 'ideas' for dealing with cats. This one I have some experience with. One Thanksgiving my family was adopted by a kitten who had been shot by a bb gun. It most certainly did not just 'sting' him, the bb was lodged in his hip. This same cat very effectively eliminated a mole problem my father was having with his lawn. I currently own an 'outdoor' cat, and would be very upset if someone injured him. However, the only way to keep a cat in your yard is to physically restrain him/her. Our neighboorhood is mostly wooded, and the cat prefers to use the leaf litter over any other type. BTW, he is neutered. It seems that a more humane way to keep cats out of your garden is to give them a spot so wonderful, they'll ignore the rest of the garden. Or prevent them from getting to a favored spot. When I lived in CA, my only gardening space was a few pots and boxes. The cats in the neighborhood loved to use these as toilets. As long as I kept row covers or netting over the boxes, I never had any problems. I know this would be difficult to do with a large garden, but if you have a large garden you would have room to try other methods. I have experience with both sides of this situation. A responsible cat owner should not allow his cat outside unless the area is conducive to allowing the cat to do his thing with little impact on the neighbors. On the other hand, there are always people who will be rude no matter what regulations society may impose. So I just develop defensive methods to minimize the inconvenience to myself. These rantings are, of course, MHO. Lisa Becker From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:17:52 EST 1994 Article: 26404 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet From: white@eng.gtefsd.com (Lisa White) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Date: 8 Feb 1994 19:16:03 GMT Organization: GTE Federal Systems Division, GSC Lines: 46 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j8odj$8gc@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> References: <1994Feb1.121839.3524@es.dupont.com> Reply-To: white@eng.gtefsd.com NNTP-Posting-Host: packard.eng.gtefsd.com In article 3524@es.dupont.com, molaisrj@esvx11.es.dupont.com writes: > In article <1994Feb1.093523.1529@crosfield.co.uk>, ame@crosfield.co.uk (Alison Eve) writes: > >A friend of mind always suggests planting cat nip (the stuff cats love) > > > >in somebody elses garden near by. That way the cats will prefer the > > > >other garden!!!!! > > > >How you achieve the planting needs to be left to the imagination. > > > >I would also be interested in real solutions as our garden is > > > >so full of the cat poo, that I will not let my son play out side > > > >It makes me so angry that there is nothing that can be done > > > > and it is us and our son that suffer. > > > >-- > >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > >Alison Eve > >Crosfield Electronics Ltd > >(0442) 230000 x3446 > > > The solution I came up with last year was to put bowls of antifreeze in > the flowerbeds. They only vivited my flowerbeds once more. Come to think > of it, I haven't even seen them in the neighborhood, and my flowerbeds > are really happy now. > That's because you probably killed those poor cats. Antifreeze is a real problem around animals because there's something in it that appeals to them and it is highly poisonous. (It is very appealing to dogs, too.) This was, excuse the pun, overkill, though I understand the desperation to keep them out of your yard! I'd be curious to know whether those high-frequency emitters would keep cats away. Also turning a hose on them if you can catch them in your yard might work, though some cats are pretty persistent. I'll look forward to reading more ideas for how to deal with this without knocking the kitties off. -- Lisa W. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!ns1.nodak.edu!news.uoknor.edu!vstn1.math.uoknor.edu!smudd Wed Feb 9 18:17:53 EST 1994 Article: 26405 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!ns1.nodak.edu!news.uoknor.edu!vstn1.math.uoknor.edu!smudd From: smudd@vstn1.math.uoknor.edu (stephanie) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help! New home need advice on flowers Date: 8 Feb 1994 15:08 CST Organization: Mathematics Computer Network, University of Oklahoma Lines: 12 Distribution: world Message-ID: <8FEB199415080535@vstn1.math.uoknor.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.15.11.11 News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 My husband and I recently purchased a home. Until now we have lived in apartments and haven't had to worry about a yard. I am wanting to plant several different kinds of flowers, especially elephant ears and rose bushes. I don't know when the best time is to plant these two specific flowers and was wanting any and all advice. What plants and flowers are easy to take care of? I am really excited about doing this, but I have no idea where to start. Thank you! Stephanie smudd@nsfuvax.math.uoknor.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!cac.psu.edu!gho Wed Feb 9 18:17:54 EST 1994 Article: 26406 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!cac.psu.edu!gho From: gho@cac.psu.edu (George H. Otto) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Clay Soil Date: 8 Feb 1994 20:29:50 GMT Organization: Penn State University, Center for Academic Computing Lines: 46 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j8snu$qs6@genesis.ait.psu.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: hotlanta.cac.psu.edu In article , ah968@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (L. D. Sitwell) writes: |> |> |> I'm a novice gardener and am somewhat perplexed by the correct way to |> proceed with my perennial border. We have about 6 or 7 inches of top soil |> over a layer of very heavy clay. Should I: |> a. simply add more topsoil? |> b. dig sand into the soil? |> c. remove as much of the clay as I can and replace it wwith |> something that drains more easily? |> Since you're planting perennials, this is the last chance you'll have to deal with the clay layer (at least for a few seasons). In a similar situation, my strategy has been double digging as follows: Remove some of the top layer and set aside. This will expose some of the underneath clay. Break up the underneath clay layer and heavily amend with stuff to improve structure and drainage (i.e. compost, peat moss, gypsum, sand, etc.). Take the topsoil from an adjacent area and fill over the area you just worked, exposing a new clay area to amend. You can amend the topsoil as you backfill as well. Keep moving down the bed in this manner until you get to the end, where you backfill with the original topsoil from the first area on which you worked. So far, this is pretty standard double digging. I usually add an extra step. Actually it's an ongoing step, used every time I place or divide plants. After you've worked the whole bed, when you set out your plants; dig big holes and work good soil down and bring any clay you find to the surface. The point is you can continue to amend clay that's on top of the soil, but you can't improve clay around the roots without digging up your plants. The clay on top can be improved by mixing with mulch materials as they decay and from the effects of exposure to weather. Seems like a lot of work but I think it's worth it. Good luck. George Otto From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!sfisher Wed Feb 9 18:17:55 EST 1994 Article: 26407 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!megatest!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Vermiposting Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <2i9de1$kl0@nexus.uiowa.edu> Distribution: inet Date: Thu, 3 Feb 1994 21:20:36 GMT Lines: 12 In article <2i9de1$kl0@nexus.uiowa.edu> donath@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (Matt Donath) writes: > >The redworm egg casings are yellowish in color and slightly oval. They >look very much like earthworm egg casings, only smaller. They >are supposed to contain about 20 eggs inside. Breaking the casings >open results in goop. Whhhoooogggghhhh. Remind me not to read these vermipostings at lunchtime! --Kim "I really thought I wasn't squeamish until now" Fisher From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news-server.bos.locus.com!troy.la.locus.com!fafnir.la.locus.com!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:17:56 EST 1994 Article: 26408 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news-server.bos.locus.com!troy.la.locus.com!fafnir.la.locus.com!not-for-mail From: tron@fafnir.la.locus.com (Michael Trofimoff) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help - Ficus and choleus; weird disease (?) Date: 4 Feb 1994 12:47:16 -0800 Organization: Locus Computing Corporation, Los Angeles, California Lines: 28 Message-ID: <2iuc8k$4tpm@fafnir.la.locus.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: fafnir.la.locus.com Hi All, I apologize if this has recently been discussed on this newsgroup, I haven't been following it too much lately.... A few months ago, my ficus (inside plant ~ 5' tall) began having this problem with some of it's leaves. The leaves began to 'wilt'; a few at a time, on branches that were all in the same vicinity. The wilting began with a slow curling around the edges of the leaf - kind of like it needed watering, then discoloration (yellowish-brown like an autumn leaf), then just brown. I cut off the leaves which appeared to be affected, and forgot about it. Now the whole plant has this condition, and the funny thing is that the leaves are still well connected to the branches even after looking completely dead! I checked the plant for bugs, parasites, etc. and couldn't find a trace. I can only assume that it's some kind of blight (?), fungus (?).. My choleus plant has been exhibiting the same type of symptom. The plant is in another area of the house, completely apart from the ficus. What the hell's going on? I've tried several of the local nurseries, but they are shut down due to quake damage, same goes with the local library. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Michael T. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu!KAPLAN Wed Feb 9 18:17:57 EST 1994 Article: 26409 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.woodworking Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu!KAPLAN From: KAPLAN@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu (Reid Kaplan) Subject: Trellis for climbing roses Message-ID: <16F57D4CB.KAPLAN@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu> Sender: news@news.yale.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: yaleads.ycc.yale.edu Organization: Yale University Date: Tue, 08 Feb 94 15:07:55 EST Lines: 25 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:26409 rec.woodworking:32755 My wife and I are planting 3 large climbing roses as part of an overall garden design. The design calls for a trellis 8 ft. high and 10 ft. long. I am having a very difficult time finding a *detailed* plan for a trellis that large. I have looked at books from 3 libraries and all that I can find from bookstores, lumber yards, and nurseries. There are only plans for small trellises and the joining/carpentry techniques are almost always glossed over. I figure that the roses will weigh about 200 lbs. and the trellis itself will weigh about 100 lbs (given the density of rewood and an approximate plan I cooked up). This means it must be sturdy (not to mention the wind forces). I have talked to the Redwood Association in CA and got fence plans, but none are suitable for modification into a trellis. Can anyone point me to detailed trellis plans? I need to know just what kind of joints I need (e.g., mortis/tenon, lap, dado, etc.) given the forces that will be encountered. I would prefer something a little more stylish than the standard square lattice, but I will settle for anything I can get. Thanks. ...Reid Kaplan kaplan@yaleads.yale.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Wed Feb 9 18:17:59 EST 1994 Article: 26410 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 8 Feb 1994 22:39:21 GMT Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 57 Sender: bailey@butyng.bu.edu Message-ID: <2j94ap$2fp@news.bu.edu> References: <1994Feb8.005550.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: butyng.bu.edu In article <1994Feb8.005550.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu writes: >Obviously, anyone interested in creating a garden wants it to be beautiful. >What I would like to know is, what do you consider to be "tasteful", >when creating a garden. Specifically: >1. What is your definition of good taste? >2. What five things do you consider to be in very good taste in a garden >3. What five things do you consider to be in the worst taste? > (I love essay questions!) 1. Good taste is a sense of aesthetics in harmony with nature and the sense of timelessness. (At least for gardens!) 2. Good taste includes: a. native plants, appropriate to the region b. use of local materials, like rock or shells or whatever c. use of good design sense in placement of plants d. minimizing distractions such as storage sheds, compost heaps, etc. by keeping things like this in less visible locations and/or hidden by plantings whenever possible e. well maintained gardens -- weeded, pruned if necessary, deadheaded if necessary, watered, cared for 3. Bad taste includes (sorry if my opinion offends anyone!!): a. Plastic yard ornaments of any kind! b. use of materials unsuitable to your garden/yard/house -- moving things too much out of their natural context is "kitsch" the pinnacle of bad taste! (like wishing wells, Dutch windmills, etc. ) c. sloppiness (unmaintained, sickly, un-cared-for) d. too many garden styles in a small space, especially if they don't merge or blend well (like a formal knot-style herb garden in a natural woodland garden next to a rose garden, maybe... ) e. mixing too many details with no "big shapes" (poor use of design principles) -- like alternating red and white segments of garden edging in front of a flower bed (a real-life example) I don't think there is "good taste" or "bad taste" in mixing or matching plants. That is more a matter of preference than taste. (I like white, blue, and yellow around my light blue house -- and hate pink. Someone else might LOVE pink and white with light blue. Someone else might go for technicolor mixes of bright magentas and oranges and like that -- none are "bad taste", but not all are MY taste.) I think yard ornaments are tricky. Traditional ornaments can be used well or badly (like sundials, bird baths, gazing balls) in different settings. Bathtub madonnas are ALWAYS kitsch! Japanese lanterns are hard to use badly, unless just used among too much stuff -- there is sort of an inherent dignity to them (maybe because they are stone) and people tend to want to use them in settings where they are comfortable, like near rocks or small conifers or with irises... Plastic gnomes, flamingos, etc. are, I hope, never used withOUT tongue firmly in cheek! (I say they are bad taste, but sometimes bad taste is funny!) Sherry, on behalf of Emily Post ;^) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Wed Feb 9 18:18:00 EST 1994 Article: 26411 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Composting Newspaper? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 8 Feb 1994 21:46:30 GMT Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 20 Sender: bailey@butyng.bu.edu Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j917m$1f0@news.bu.edu> References: <36.4678.2552.0N41F4EE@gcbb.granite.mn.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: butyng.bu.edu "Undigested lumps" -- that reminds me... Jim! Any tips on dealing with chunks of sod from lawn-turned-into-flower-beds? Aside from my omnipresent oak leaf problem, dealing with chunks of sod in my compost is my biggest problem. They range in size from a few inches to a foot or more square, and I try to beat off most of the topsoil, but some sticks. They don't seem to decompose much over a summer of composting -- and I try to be sure they are roots up so they don't try to grow. I don't need any to transplant, I don't want any for other uses, I want to compost the stuff (to forestall other suggestions people probably have). I want to use the biomass to enrich the soil. It just doesn't work very well, but I just KNOW there is something to make it work better!!! Thanks! Sherry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!panda Wed Feb 9 18:18:01 EST 1994 Article: 26412 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!panda From: geoff johnson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! New home need advice on flowers Date: 8 Feb 1994 22:48:58 GMT Organization: U of Iowa Panda System Lines: 9 Distribution: inet Message-ID: <760747309-1-27233@chop.isca.uiowa.edu> References: <8FEB199415080535@vstn1.math.uoknor.edu> Reply-To: sidhe@chop.isca.uiowa.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: chop.isca.uiowa.edu Roses can be planted anytime after the danger of frost has past. Elephant ears I'm not sure of but probably a short while after the roses --- GLJOHNSON IV From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!x92ochs1 Wed Feb 9 18:18:02 EST 1994 Article: 26413 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!x92ochs1 From: x92ochs1@gw.wmich.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: American cedar Message-ID: <1994Feb8.180826.14670@gw.wmich.edu> Date: 8 Feb 94 18:08:26 EST References: <16F56F437.084NEIL@Witsvma.wits.ac.za> Organization: Western Michigan University Lines: 18 In article <16F56F437.084NEIL@Witsvma.wits.ac.za>, 084NEIL@Witsvma.wits.ac.za writes: > Hi, > > Does anyone know what the substance is in American Cedar that gives it its > unique smell? I have a sample of it and am trying to find a South African tree > that has a similar smell. Failing that I'd like to produce it synthetically. > > I have heard that pieces of American Cedar repel insects in much the same way > as napthalene moth ball do. Is this so? > -- I believe the substance is camphor. Jeff From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!bohr.physics.upenn.edu!bush Wed Feb 9 18:18:03 EST 1994 Article: 26414 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!bohr.physics.upenn.edu!bush From: bush@bohr.physics.upenn.edu (Judith Elaine Bush Newton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: QUESTION re Peace Lily (Spathiphylium) Date: 8 Feb 1994 22:22:16 GMT Organization: Tandem Lab - U.Penn Lines: 20 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j93ao$8b9@netnews.upenn.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bohr.physics.upenn.edu Keywords: Peace Lily, Spathiphylium I'm growing concerned with how the leaves on my Peace Lily are turning brown and dry. There are two plants in the pot. Neither is particularly lush, although a third plant has sprouted off since the last repotting 2 1/2 years ago. My guess is that the air is too dry, as this is happening even to new leaves before they unfurl. I'm misting the plant, but haven't seen a dramatic change. The spider plant and begonias and parsley growing in the near window are all coping well with the radiator heat, though. Is there anything else I might do to save it? I've had it seven or eight years, and it's been quite reliable before. Thanks, judith -- +*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+* * Judith Elaine Bush Newton | bush@bohr.physics.upenn.edu + +*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+* From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Wed Feb 9 18:18:05 EST 1994 Article: 26415 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: pre-treating half barrells? Date: 8 Feb 1994 23:29:12 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 32 Message-ID: <2j9788$64p@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <1994Feb7.191950.22518@cobra.uni.edu> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: nextsun.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, klier@cobra.uni.edu () says: > >In article , lemay@netcom.com (Killer of Trees) writes >... >> I'm worried about planting things in these barrels with such a strong > >Fill 'em up with water and let 'em sit overnight. Drain and refill >a few times. Toss some bleach in the moldy one if you're worried (I >wouldn't be). When they've been leached for a week or more, toss a >cup of baking soda in a final change of water... > >Don't forget to drill lots and lots of little drainage holes (or a reasonable >number of large drainage holes) before you fill 'em with soil. And put >them where you think they'll stay... 'cause you *aren't* going to move 'em >unless you take most of the soil out! If you--do-- want to move them, put together a frame of 2 X 4's. Then get some three inch swivel caster wheels for the corners. Put the half-barrel on the wheeled frame and --voila--instant mobility (sort of). Don't use itty-bitty furniture casters; they can't take the weight Any good building supply place ought to have the casters. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * "Sleeplessness is like metaphysics. A-B College * Be there." Philippi, WV * * ----Charles Simic---- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user Wed Feb 9 18:18:06 EST 1994 Article: 26416 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user From: karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) Subject: Re: Seeking opinions on tomato types (especially OG50) Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: Naval Research Lab References: <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 08:15:44 GMT Lines: 50 In article <2ir50s$i3r@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu>, bk134@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Keith William Bowes) wrote: >[interesting stuff cut] > Realizing that this is largely a matter of taste, and tastes vary > greatly, are there some unbiased opinions out there regarding OG50? > Have any of you people, not on Rodale's payroll, tried OG50 with > any success? > > I'm open to all opinions, good or bad, regarding OG50 or any other > type of tomato you think would be a good choice as this year's > "alternate" in my garden. (Including the cherry's. This year I plan > to try the Sweet 100's. Are these the best? Are there some better?) First off, i live in Maryland (zone 7) so my experience may not relate to yours. [*short plea to rec.gardens posters: PLEASE remember to put your zone in your post! it really helps to know if you're in California, England, Alaska, or wherever!*] I've had middling luck with paste tomatoes -- i've tried Hybrid 885? (from Johnny's) and Viva Italia, and neither exactly flourished in my little disease-prone garden. The VI's got off to a slow start (compared with the others planted at the same time) and never really put out alot of tomatoes, but they did seem more disease resistant than most and tasted OK. Last year i also tried a plant each of Early Girl, Husky Red, and Carnival (all from Tomato Growers Supply i think) in a raised bed, plus a Better Bush and one or two Huskies in pots. The pots were a disappointment; maybe i didnt water enough, but they didnt produce well and still got diseases much to my surprise (since the soil was new & from bags). The Husky Red didnt taste very good, so i wouldnt try that again. The Early Girls were pretty tasty, quite prolific, and surprisingly disease resistant (for an early variety in my area). The best tasting tomato was the Carnival, which also has pretty orange/yellow shoulders on the red fruit. I'd try Carnival again for sure, and probably the Viva Italia (it was a weird summer last year...). Sorry i have no info on the OG50 but in my tiny garden i dont bother with big beefsteaks. As for cherry tomatoes, last thing i tried was the Yellow Canary dwarf type and they were a waste of time. Didnt taste particularly good, and the plants were destroyed by hornworms before i knew it. Oh well..... -- Judy Karpen "pushing back the frontiers of science...." karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil Code 7675K, NRL, Washington DC 20375-5352 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user Wed Feb 9 18:18:07 EST 1994 Article: 26417 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user From: karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) Subject: Re: Good Mail order source of perennials and ground covers? Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: Naval Research Lab References: <1994Feb3.141657.8831@leo.vsla.edu> Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 08:31:05 GMT Lines: 23 In article <1994Feb3.141657.8831@leo.vsla.edu>, swooldri@leo.vsla.edu (Susan Wooldridge) wrote: > jeff.west@atlantaga.ncr.com writes: > > Does anyone know of a good source for perennials and ground covers? [specifics cut] some of these items can be found in the catalog from Well Sweep Herb Farm in NJ. They specialize in herbs and perennials, and have alot of interesting varieties --- quality seems good, over the 2 or 3 years i've ordered from them. Their address is 317 Mt Bethel Rd Port Murray, NJ 07865. Catalog is $2. Phone number is (908) 852-5390. Only problem might be that they're in zone 6, so what is winter or summer hardy there might not apply to your area. -- Judy Karpen "pushing back the frontiers of science...." karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil Code 7675K, NRL, Washington DC 20375-5352 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user Wed Feb 9 18:18:08 EST 1994 Article: 26418 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user From: karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) Subject: Re: SEEDS: Looking for herb seeds! Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: Naval Research Lab References: <19940202.20072972.amusson@delphi.com> <1994Feb3.142129.8943@leo.vsla.edu> Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 08:36:12 GMT Lines: 22 In article , ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) wrote: > > Shepherd's Garden Seeds > 30 Irene Street > Orrington, CT 06790-6627 > > or (203) 482-0532 > > This year I am trying their pasilla chilis and epazote (for Mexican cooking). > > Good luck. > > Ruth Sample slight correction: it's Torrington CT :^> ^^^ -- Judy Karpen "pushing back the frontiers of science...." karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil Code 7675K, NRL, Washington DC 20375-5352 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:18:10 EST 1994 Article: 26419 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!not-for-mail From: chitta@cs.umd.edu (Chitta R. Baral) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Gardening in the arid Southwest Date: 8 Feb 1994 18:47:01 -0500 Organization: U of Maryland, Dept. of Computer Science, Coll. Pk., MD 20742 Lines: 20 Distribution: na Message-ID: <2j989l$4v8@konark.cs.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: konark.cs.umd.edu I live in El Paso, TX; in the arid Southwest. I just moved into a new house and would like to create a garden that has native plants and plants that do not need too much water. I would appreciate any suggestions of how to go about it. In particular I would appreciate pointers to mail order places that have such plants (seeds etc) and related literature in stock. (The local nurseries are kind of expensive.) I am new to this group. Please let me know if a FAQ exists that my contain some answers to my query. Chitta Baral chitta@cs.ep.utexas.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!hmiddlet Wed Feb 9 18:18:12 EST 1994 Article: 26420 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!hermes.chpc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!hmiddlet From: hmiddlet@uoguelph.ca (Heather Middleton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Potato Bugs and Yellow Worms Date: 9 Feb 1994 00:43:39 GMT Organization: University of Guelph Lines: 57 Message-ID: <2j9bjr$ilg@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> References: <19940204.20531520.amusson@delphi.com> <9@oeonline.UUCP> NNTP-Posting-Host: herman.cs.uoguelph.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] gkiewicz (coconet@oeonline.UUCP) wrote: : amusson@delphi.com (Adriann Musson) writes: : > My potato plants were eaten alive by potato bugs. My bean plants fell to : > yellow worms. Looking for ORGANIC solution. Any advice appreciated. Thanks. CPB's or Colorado Potatoe Beetles are a pain eh? They somehow find your plants no mater what you do. I was working last summer with a scientist at my university, on methods to control this beetle. One method we were working on was a trench lined with black plastic (like the kind you use for mulching) that sloped gently from the headlands ( the grassy area ) so the beetles walked up the slope and fell into the pit. Since the pit was lined with this slipery plastic, they couldn't climb out. The black plastic heated up in the sun and the beetles ended up drying out and dying. The only problem, is that this method was used on a large scale in a farmer field. I don't know if this method works for gardening. I will be trying it out myself this summer in my gardening. If you want information, the expert to ask is Dr. Mark Sears at the University of Guelph in the Department of Environmental Biology, in Guelph, Ontario. : Using a heavy hay mulch on the potatoes can discourage the beetles -- it seems to : interfere with their life-cyle. Hand picking of adults and egg masses (my approach) : works on small scale plantings. I don't know if a hay mulch would interfere with their life-cycle or not? The covering on the ground actually might help give them a better place to pupate ( developing from a larvae to an adult ). Hand picking has always been the BEST method ( if you have the time ) and put them in soapy water to make sure they are really dead. While you are picking them, watch out for those buggers who fall of the plant and play dead. : Some people recommend planting beans between rows of tomatoes to repel potato beetles, : but none of my references support it. I would probably recommend planting eggplant around the edge or in between the plants you want to keep alive and away from the beetle. The eggplant is in the solacious ( may have spelt that wrong ) familly, the same group the potatoe plant is from. Catch them on these plants and hand pick them off from there, before they get to your important plants ( not saying that eggplant isn't important ). We used this technique on our research farm, and we found lots of beetles being attracted to the eggplants. : A special tomato variety, 'Allure', is being marketed for use as a trap crop. This : variety is supposed to be extremely attractive to the beetles, allowing you to trap : and destroy the pests. (Available from Stokes Seeds, supply is limited.) Another new developement in the area of plant resistance, is a potatoe plant containing Bt within the plant itself. I don't think it's on the market yet since it's still being tested, but watch out for it in the future. Good luck with those CPB's! :-) Heather Middleton Environmental Biology student University of Guelph hmiddlet@uoguelph.ca ---------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mnemosyne.cs.du.edu!nyx10!mbur Wed Feb 9 18:18:13 EST 1994 Article: 26421 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!mnemosyne.cs.du.edu!nyx10!mbur From: mbur@nyx10.cs.du.edu (MAC) Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Message-ID: <1994Feb8.231743.26570@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> X-Disclaimer: Nyx is a public access Unix system run by the University of Denver for the Denver community. The University has neither control over nor responsibility for the opinions of users. Sender: usenet@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu (netnews admin account) Organization: Nyx, Public Access Unix at U. of Denver Math/CS dept. References: <9402052242595.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> Date: Tue, 8 Feb 94 23:17:43 GMT Lines: 18 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:71192 alt.config:24172 rec.gardens:26421 misc.rural:7723 In article , Steve Crumley wrote: >In article <9402052242595.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com>, ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) writes: >|> >I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. >|> >|> I'd be interested in such a group. I do not currently keep bees here in Ohio >|> Valley suburbia, but I did in the Appalachians of my adolescence. I hope to >|> start again sometime soon and would welcome the information I could gain >|> from a newsgroup. I'm not sure I would have much to contribute, but I can >|> promise to be a faithful lurker. >|> >|> Greg > >I just started keeping bees and would love get in touch with other beekeepers! They're all busy!!@! MAC - ba dum dum tisssss From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!utcsri!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af280 Wed Feb 9 18:18:14 EST 1994 Article: 26422 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!utcsri!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af280 From: af280@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Sandra P. Hoffman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Potato Bugs and Yellow Worms Message-ID: Date: 9 Feb 94 02:10:52 GMT References: <9@oeonline.UUCP> <19940204.20531520.amusson@delphi.com> Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: af280@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Sandra P. Hoffman) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet Lines: 19 In a previous article, coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) says: > >Some people recommend planting beans between rows of tomatoes to repel potato beetles, >but none of my references support it. I have found potato beetles sheltering in beans, so my experience wouldn't lead me to use beans to repel potato beetles. I have used calendula planted around eggplants as a repellent, but have not yet found a good balance. Enough calendula to be really effective, is enough to choke out the eggplants. Eggplants could be used as a trap crop for potatoes, unfortunately, I want to harvest both eggplants and potatoes. sph -- af280@freenet.carleton.ca From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!utcsri!utnut!torn!csd.unb.ca!peinet.pe.ca!peinet.pe.ca!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:18:15 EST 1994 Article: 26423 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!utcsri!utnut!torn!csd.unb.ca!peinet.pe.ca!peinet.pe.ca!not-for-mail From: peien@bud.peinet.pe.ca (PEI Environmental Network) Newsgroups: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Keywords: beekeeping Message-ID: <2j9pj7$rum@bud.peinet.pe.ca> Date: 9 Feb 94 04:42:15 GMT References: <1994Feb5.160628.19257@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Sender: peien@peinet.pe.ca (Sharon Labchuk) Organization: PEINet, Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada Lines: 4 NNTP-Posting-Host: bud.peinet.pe.ca Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:71225 alt.config:24184 rec.gardens:26423 misc.rural:7724 I think a beekeeping newsgroup would be great. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:18:16 EST 1994 Article: 26424 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: katew@delphi.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Transplanting people... Date: Wed, 9 Feb 94 00:53:45 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 17 Message-ID: References: <1994Feb7.185626.9894@brtph560.bnr.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: delphi.com X-To: Garry Williams OK, OK, y'all can stop e-mailing me about _Southern Living_! :) I went to my local grocery store and found it (yeah, local as in Portland, as in why on EARTH would my Fred Meyer store carry it???) and it is exactly the sort of thing I am looking for (though I will be snooty for a second and say that Sunset is easier to read & graphically better :). I have gotten a copy of the Park's catalog and assume that it is a pretty good representation of what grows in the South. Basically, I am going to wait until I get there to choose seeds, and I am definitely building raised beds as I am used to loamy soil and not red clay. Thank you thank you to all the kind folks who responded to my plea. NOW, how about some more of those "how to be a Southerner" tips? BTW, I have learned that (thank God!) I am NOT a Yankee, I am a Westerner, although of course this can be argued. I am most worried about fire ants (there was a scary picture in Southern Living), boiled peanuts, and the Braves. Kate From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!jmcnult Wed Feb 9 18:18:17 EST 1994 Article: 26425 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!jmcnult From: jmcnult@orion.it.luc.edu (John A. Mcnulty) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Composting Newspaper? Date: 9 Feb 1994 03:33:10 GMT Organization: Loyola University of Chicago Lines: 26 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2j9lhm$auj@apollo.it.luc.edu> References: <2j5dq1INNa9g@emory.mathcs.emory.edu> <36.4735.2552.0N41F57A@gcbb.granite.mn.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: orion.it.luc.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Jim Mcnelly (jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org) wrote: : Tissues are OK for the home pile as long as they are table scraps etc : from the kitchen. I would be concerned about tissues from the bathroom. O.K. Jim! I have been meaning to ask this question! I blow my nose on a white, generic, recycled tissue (in the bathroom, but I am not suffering from a dread disease; does that matter?). Should I: Flush it down the toilet (I assume our suburban Chicago sewage is treated in an environmentally sane manner)? Throw it on the compost pile? Throw it in the garbage (we pay by the can to have it removed)? Burn it in the fireplace during our ritual weekend family gathering? Actually (don't read this if you are eating lunch) I save tissue, dry it out by letting it sit in the bathroom where I left it, then use it to wipe out hair from the bottom of the shower, then throw it in the garbage. Patty, feeling a bit nauseaus myself.... From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!aj796 Wed Feb 9 18:18:18 EST 1994 Article: 26426 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!aj796 From: aj796@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Tippi Chai) Subject: meaning of Rose of Sharon Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: aj796@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Tippi Chai) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet Date: Wed, 9 Feb 1994 06:11:02 GMT Lines: 14 On the new Kate Bush album there's a song with the following lines: "I'll be the Rose of Sharon for you I'll be the Lily of the Valley for you I'll be Isolde and Marion for you..." Isolde is the love of Prince Tristan, and [Maid] Marion is Robinhood's sweetie. So what is the significance of the two plants mentioned with regards to love? -- Tippi Chai, Toronto, ON, Canada aj796@freenet.carleton.ca "It's really happenin' to ya!" Kate Bush "My past is warpaint" Happy Rhodes From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU!clb5q Wed Feb 9 18:18:20 EST 1994 Article: 26427 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU!clb5q From: clb5q@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Cheryl L. Boyd) Subject: Growing potatoes above ground Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: uva Date: Wed, 9 Feb 1994 01:34:42 GMT Lines: 3 Has anyone had experience with growing potatos by just laying them on top of the beds and covering them over with 6" of straw or rotted hay mulch? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!princeton!tcp6kip55.princeton.edu!maggie Wed Feb 9 18:18:21 EST 1994 Article: 26428 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!princeton!tcp6kip55.princeton.edu!maggie From: Maggie Browning Subject: baby's tears Message-ID: <1994Feb8.234536.26039@Princeton.EDU> X-Xxmessage-Id: Originator: news@nimaster X-Xxdate: Tue, 8 Feb 94 23:45:30 GMT Sender: news@Princeton.EDU (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: tcp6kip55.princeton.edu Organization: Linguistics Program X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d17 Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 23:45:36 GMT Lines: 3 Anyone know of a mail-order source for baby!s tears? -Maggie Browning From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ee.und.ac.za!csir.co.za!forjnk.csir.co.za!dlmaitre Wed Feb 9 18:18:22 EST 1994 Article: 26429 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ee.und.ac.za!csir.co.za!forjnk.csir.co.za!dlmaitre From: dlmaitre@forjnk.csir.co.za (Dave le Maitre) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Gardening in Arabia Date: 9 Feb 1994 14:12:37 GMT Organization: CSIR Lines: 14 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 146.64.33.9 Anyone on this list know either (1) something about gardening in Arabia (plants used, plants preferred) (2) someone who currently lives there and has a garden and corresponds with this list. ============================================================================== David Le Maitre Forestek CSIR Private Bag X5011 Stellenbosch South Africa Tel +27 21 883-9771 Fax +27 21 883-8394 E-mail dlmaitre@forjnk.csir.co.za ============================================================================== From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!sunSITE!london Wed Feb 9 18:18:23 EST 1994 Article: 26430 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!sunSITE!london From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London) Newsgroups: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Date: 9 Feb 1994 15:18:53 GMT Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill Lines: 46 Message-ID: <2jaust$a5m@bigblue.oit.unc.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: calypso.oit.unc.edu Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:71251 alt.config:24205 rec.gardens:26430 misc.rural:7725 In article moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) writes: >I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. >[text deleted] >The purpose of this group is discussing the various aspects of beekeeping, >how to start, obtaining bees and equipment, setting up the equipment, >preparing them for the seasons, honey harvesting, tips and techniques, >questions and answers etc. It is more intended as an interchange of >new and up-to-date information such as new breeds, the spread of various >diseases or the Africanized bee, new rules or regulations and not a >replacement for getting a beekeeping book (there are many good books >out there) >[text deleted] >There is a mailing list, BEE-L, but this group seems to be a well-kept >secret, and it is a bee biology list rather rather than a beekeeping >list (though there are beekeeping discussions) >I believe it should be rec.beekeeping (perhaps rec..beekeeping) >A sci. group would duplicate the BEE-L list, so it would be best to orient >this toward the hobby beekeeper. I support a *.beekeeping newsgroup. I operate a small organic market farm and hope to begin keeping bees in the next few years for pollination and food. A discussion group would make getting set up and operational much easier. Maybe, with the list owner's permission, BEE-L could be gated read-only into *.beekeeping. I could easily have this set up here at my site where we are already gating sanet-mg (read only) and sustag-public (read/write) into alt.sustainable.agriculture. APIS, the Florida Extension Beekeeping Newsletter which appears in sanet-mg regularly would probably be of interest to beekeepers, amateur and professional. I archive many ag/rural/bio newsgroups, lists, FAQs and miscellaneous documents at sunSITE.unc.edu and would do the same with *.beekeeping. Send me e-mail if you would like a brief guide to accessing these resources or: (anonymous) ftp sunsite.unc.edu cd pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture get RESOURCES (or) FileList cd pub/academic/agriculture/rural-skills get RESOURCES (or) FileList cd pub/academic/environment/alternative-energy/miscellaneous cd pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare or - telnet sunsite.unc.edu Login: gopher - Lawrence London london@sunSITE.unc.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!sunSITE!london Wed Feb 9 18:18:25 EST 1994 Article: 26431 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!sunSITE!london From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Archives Date: 9 Feb 1994 15:21:02 GMT Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill Lines: 176 Message-ID: <2jav0u$me3@bigblue.oit.unc.edu> References: <2im11h$7sr@voltaire5.rest.tasc.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: calypso.oit.unc.edu In article <2im11h$7sr@voltaire5.rest.tasc.com> peterj@rest.tasc.com writes: > >Where are the archives for this newsgroup? -- Accessing FAQlists and other information on gardening, farming, -- rural skills, metalworking, woodworking, food, cooking & nutrition, -- alternative: healthcare, energy, architecture, housing, living, -- sustainable agriculture, ecology, environment, botany, biology -- and many other related subjects available at sunSITE.unc.edu. anonymous ftp: ftp sunsite.unc.edu cd pub/academic cd agriculture/sustainable_agriculture -or- cd medicine/alternative-healthcare -or- cd environment/alternative-energy/miscellaneous telnet: telnet sunsite.unc.edu Login: gopher Enter term type: (vt100 works fine) -Gopher Menu- The Worlds of sunSITE Sustainable Agriculture Information SunSITE Sustainable Agriculture Information -and- The Worlds of SunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic agriculture sustainable_agriculture The Worlds of sunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic environment alternative energy miscellaneous The Worlds of sunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic medicine alternative healthcare Various Internet resources archived at sunSITE in the above directories: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Newsgroups and mailing lists: Alt.sustainable.agriculture provides newsgroup access to all traffic in the sustag-public and sanet-mg mailing lists plus all articles posted directly to that newsgroup. [Listed are host systems (i.e. mailing list server site address, mailing list name, and name of newsgroup that it's gated to, if at all] Mailing Lists: -------------- List name: sustag-public Host server: almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Post articles to: sustag-public@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Gated read/write to: alt.sustainable.agriculture List name: sanet-mg (Sustainable Agriculture Network mail group) Host server: almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Post articles to: sanet-mg@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Gated read-only to: alt.sustainable.agriculture List name: forage-mg Host server: almanac@oes.orst.edu Post articles to: forage-mg@oes.orst.edu Other mailing lists: wetnet soils-l agmodels-l agric-l bee-l hydro-l devel-l indknow-l aqua-l marine-l gardens-l cohousing-l maxlife-l Usenet Newsgroups: ------------------ sci.agriculture alt.sustainable.agriculture alt.agriculture.misc alt.agriculture.fruit Others: rec.gardens misc.rural alt.folklore.herbs alt.co-evolution sci.bio sci.bio.ecology sci.geo.geology sci.geo.meteorology sci.aquaria bionet plants bionet mycology bionet photosynthesis bionet cellbiology bionet general bionet.agroforestry bionet.n2-fixation bionet.biology.tropical alt.architecture.alternative alt.housing.nontrad sci.energy misc.health.alternative sci.life-extension alt.health.ayurveda alt.meditation misc.health.diabetes rec.food.veg sci.med.nutrition sci.med.pharmacy alt.food.fat-free Other mailing lists: -------------------- >From almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu: renew-energy (Renewable Energy) nc-solar (North Carolina Solar Energy Resources) nat_med (Natural Medicine) env_res (Environmental Resources) Articles in all of the mailing lists and newsgroups listed above, FAQs and other information are archived at sunSITE. They are accesable by ftp, telnet, Gopher, WWW, WAIS & FTPMail. - For more information contact: Lawrence London london@sunSITE.unc.edu sunSITE ftp directories: /pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture /pub/academic/agriculture/rural-skills /pub/academic/environment/alternative-energy/miscellaneous /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare Paul Jones Paul_Jones@unc.edu Office for Information Technology University of North Carolina Chapel, Hill, N.C. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!destroyer!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson Wed Feb 9 18:18:27 EST 1994 Article: 26432 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!destroyer!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson From: carlson@shrsys.hslc.org Subject: Suggestions for climbing rose Message-ID: <9FEB94.14552950@shrsys.hslc.org> Sender: news@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER Date: Wed, 9 Feb 1994 19:55:29 GMT Lines: 18 Many thanks to those of you who recommended a source for the sweetbriar. My request for a catalog is in the mail. Now I'm thinking of adding a climbing rose to my colelction and I'm not sure which one I want. I'm hoping you rose lovers out there can make some suggestions. I have a small garden shed (really a child's playhouse with window boxes and a dutch door) around which I have planted a cottage garden. I think having a rose climbing across the roof would add a nice touch. I'm partial to the fragrance and appearance of the old roses, and repeat- flowering would be nice but isn't necessary. I live in Central PA, zone 6 (by the way, we had another snow-sleet-ice storm yesterday-- another 5 inches of mess). Does anyone have any suggestions for a suitable fragrant climber? Thanks, and PLEASE send Spring my way! Karen e-mail carlson@shrsys.hslc.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!govonca!thackerb Wed Feb 9 18:18:28 EST 1994 Article: 26433 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!govonca!thackerb From: thackerb@govonca.gov.on.ca (Bruce Thacker) Subject: Re: Cats in yard... Message-ID: <1994Feb9.155749.10474@govonca.gov.on.ca> Organization: Government of Ontario References: <1994Feb8.164553.9196@ncsu.edu> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 1994 15:57:49 GMT Lines: 5 Why must people who do not own a cat or dog (by choice) take responsiblity for animals owned (presumably by choice) by others? Bruce Thacker Thunder Bay, Ontario From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Wed Feb 9 18:18:30 EST 1994 Article: 26434 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.woodworking Subject: Re: Trellis for climbing roses Message-ID: Date: Wed, 09 Feb 94 10:10:01 EST References: <16F57D4CB.KAPLAN@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 20 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:26434 rec.woodworking:32835 KAPLAN@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu (Reid Kaplan) writes: > My wife and I are planting 3 large climbing roses as part of an overall garde > design. The design calls for a trellis 8 ft. high and 10 ft. long. I am > having a very difficult time finding a *detailed* plan for a trellis that > large. I have looked at books from 3 libraries and all that I can find from > Can anyone point me to detailed trellis plans? I need to know just what > kind of joints I need (e.g., mortis/tenon, lap, dado, etc.) given the > forces that will be encountered. I would prefer something a little more > stylish than the standard square lattice, but I will settle for anything I > can get. Whenever I've wanted to build something and didn't have detailed plans, I've always asked the guys at the help desk at the lumber yard. They've invariable helped me out with any questions or details that I might not even have thought of. Give it a shot. The worst they can do is say "I dunno"! Garry Williams g.williams42@genie.geis.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Wed Feb 9 18:18:31 EST 1994 Article: 26435 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! New home need advice on flowers Message-ID: <97JHHc2w165w@salzo.Cary.NC.US> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 94 10:14:43 EST References: <8FEB199415080535@vstn1.math.uoknor.edu> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 40 smudd@vstn1.math.uoknor.edu (stephanie) writes: > My husband and I recently purchased a home. Until now we have lived in > apartments and haven't had to worry about a yard. I am wanting to plant > several different kinds of flowers, especially elephant ears and rose bushes. > I don't know when the best time is to plant these two specific flowers and wa > wanting any and all advice. What plants and flowers are easy to take care of > I am really excited about doing this, but I have no idea where to start. > smudd@nsfuvax.math.uoknor.edu One generally plants roses while they are dormant, a time which varies from locale to locale. If the soil is workable, you can go ahead and plant them. Rose pruning is done, at least here back east, when the forsythia blooms (a general rule of thumb which works regardless of how far north or south you are, as long as you aren't out of their growing range) So anytime between the time when the soil becomes workable and the time the forsythia blooms is a good time to plant roses. In milder areas like mine in central NC, we even go with fall planting, since it usually doesn't get cold enough for the ground to freeze. This gives the bush all winter to develop its root system and lets it take off better come spring. The best advice I can give you is to get in touch with your local rose society. If you don't know how to find them, call the American Rose Society at (318) 938-5402 and ask for the location of the nearest Consulting Rosarian. These are experienced members of the American Rose Society who donate their time and expertise to answer questions about growing and enjoying roses. This service is free and does not require you to be a member of either the ARS or of a local society. On the elephant ears, plant them after all danger of frost is past. If your climate is mild enough, or almost mild enough, if you plant them in a sheltered place (mine are in a corner next to the fireplace chimney) sometimes you can still overwinter them without having to dig them up. But I'm in zone 7b, and wouldn't recommend it someone in an area that has really cold winter temps and where the ground freezes. Garry Williams g.williams42@genie.geis.com RTC Coordinator for the GEnie Garden Round Table Assistant Sysop for the Rose Category From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!esb1mac4.berkeley.edu!lisah Wed Feb 9 18:18:33 EST 1994 Article: 26436 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!esb1mac4.berkeley.edu!lisah From: Lisa Hamilton Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: I need help with Bulb problems Date: 9 Feb 1994 17:22:37 GMT Organization: UC Berkeley Lines: 28 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jb64t$pml@agate.berkeley.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: esb1mac4.berkeley.edu X-UserAgent: Version 1.1.3 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Wed, 9 Feb 94 09:24:37 GMT I live in California. I bought a variety of bulbs last fall (tulip, hyacinth, dwarf narcissus, ranunculi), wrapped them in foil, put them in my refrigerator for 6 wks, planted them in various pots to the appropriate depths (maybe) with a little bit of bone meal under the bottom of each bulb, kept them in the semi-dark of a storage room in my garage until they were appx 6" tall, then brought them out into a partly-sunny window. I watered once a week. Once a month or so I watered with a little Miracle-gro. The potting soil has been perpetually moist, leading to a kind of white surface rime and a proliferation of little gnat/mosquito like bugs that seem to have no effect on the plants. The narcissus sprouted up with green shoots that were so long they could not support their own weight. Only one started to blossom, but it shriveled in the bud. I ended up cutting them off above the bulb. The hyacinth began blooming at the soil level. I removed some soil from around the top of the bulbs but still the flowers shriveled before reaching full bloom. My ranunculi never got over 2" of green stem before dying. I originally had some perlite in the bottom of the pots and mixed some humus into the mid layer of potting soil also to increase aeration. But this seemed to be holding the moisture against the bulbs, so I removed most of the humus and mixed the perlite into the soil itself. Still the soil is soggy. But can this be the whole source of my problems? Any advice would be much appreciated! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!uwrf.edu!aff_rao Wed Feb 9 18:18:36 EST 1994 Article: 26437 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!uwrf.edu!aff_rao From: aff_rao@rivers.acc.uwrf.edu (Anand Rao, Univ. of Wisconsin-River Falls) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: To plant or not to plant?! Message-ID: <1994Feb9.095419.2760@rivers> Date: 9 Feb 94 09:54:18 -0600 Organization: University of Wisconsin - River Falls Lines: 10 Hi Folks: A friend of mine is building a home and will be moving in sometime in early May. He was wondering if he should plant perennials and other stuff as soon as he can (may/june) or wait till Fall (Aug/Sep). I'd like your comments and experiences in this matter. Thanks. ---Anand Rao E-mail: Anand.Rao@UWRF.edu UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN-RIVER FALLS From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!gossip.pyramid.com!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl.crl.com!not-for-mail Wed Feb 9 18:18:37 EST 1994 Article: 26438 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!gossip.pyramid.com!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl.crl.com!not-for-mail From: hempster@crl.com (Alan Silverman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey Date: 9 Feb 1994 09:40:31 -0800 Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access (415) 705-6060 [login: guest] Lines: 20 Message-ID: <2jb76f$fv0@crl.crl.com> References: <1994Feb8.005550.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: crl.com In article <1994Feb8.005550.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu writes: >Obviously, anyone interested in creating a garden wants it to be beautiful. >What I would like to know is, what do you consider to be "tasteful", >when creating a garden. Specifically: >1. What is your definition of good taste? What I like, of course. It's all relative. >2. What five things do you consider to be in very good taste in a garden Tastes good, looks good, not a nuisence to other plants (like ivy), not a nuisence to neighbors (like pampas grass), native plants. >3. What five things do you consider to be in the worst taste? Ivy, IVY, ivy, Ivy, and if I forgot to say, IVY! Also anything that takes a lot of water in a dry region. -alan From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!brohard Wed Feb 9 18:18:39 EST 1994 Article: 26439 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!brohard From: brohard@convex.com (James Brohard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: lighting question Date: 9 Feb 1994 18:46:44 GMT Organization: CONVEX Computer Corp, Richardson, TX USA Lines: 13 Message-ID: <2jbb2k$a32@convex.convex.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: javs-spu.convex.com I am currently using fluorescent lighting to start my seeds for the garden and was wondering, is there a general rule of how much light is needed for good success? Currently I have 2 bulb 2-foot light fixtures over the plant trays for a total of 40 watts for each level of plant trays. Because of the stories on the net where people are talking about the sprouts falling over due to lack of light, I'm thinking of adding another 2 bulbs for a total of 4 or 80 watts over each level of trays, but need to know if it's really necessary. Thanks for any advice. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins Wed Feb 9 18:18:42 EST 1994 Article: 26440 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins From: jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: lighting question Date: 9 Feb 1994 18:56:05 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 22 Message-ID: <2jbbk5$ac4@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <2jbb2k$a32@convex.convex.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: top.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article <2jbb2k$a32@convex.convex.com>, James Brohard wrote: > > I am currently using fluorescent lighting to start my seeds for the >garden and was wondering, is there a general rule of how much light >is needed for good success? Currently I have 2 bulb 2-foot light fixtures >over the plant trays for a total of 40 watts for each level of plant trays. > > Because of the stories on the net where people are talking about the >sprouts falling over due to lack of light, I'm thinking of adding another >2 bulbs for a total of 4 or 80 watts over each level of trays, but need to >know if it's really necessary. My understanding of the consensus in the group (+ some emails I rec'd) when this question came up last week is that the current set-up you have should provide sufficient light *if* the fixture is close enough to the seedlings. I've had over 5 years of perfect seedling success using the same fluorescent lighting set-up you've got. Jim From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!ccwf.cc.utexas.edu!daoffer Wed Feb 9 18:18:45 EST 1994 Article: 26441 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!ccwf.cc.utexas.edu!daoffer From: daoffer@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Debora Offer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Fruiting Trees & Mail Order Companies Date: 9 Feb 94 13:03:22 Organization: The University of Texas at Austin Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sleepy.cc.utexas.edu It's a little late, but I'm planning on buying some trees mail order. I'm thinking of getting mulberry, elderberry, paw paw, chokeberry and maybe a saskatoon blueberry. I know mulberry grows in my area but I'm not sure about the rest. If anyone has experience with these plants, I'd be interested in hearing about it. I live in Austin,TX so my climate is a bit demanding. Winters are cold spells down to the 20's intermixed with warm spells up to 80. Summers are in the 90's and usually very dry. The soil is shallow clay over caliche with occasional deep spots with good soil. Also, does anyone have experience with the following companies? They're on my short list. Guernsey Henry Fields Country Heritage Mellinger Thanks bunches! -- Please reply to the following address. The old one (ccwf) is running at 4 times overcapacity! \__ __/ Debora offer@mamba.asg.arlut.utexas.edu \__ __/ T any opinions expressed are mine, not necessarily my employers T From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!Csli!zwicky Wed Feb 9 18:18:46 EST 1994 Article: 26442 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!Csli!zwicky From: zwicky@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Arnold Zwicky) Subject: Re: meaning of Rose of Sharon Message-ID: <1994Feb9.182423.196@Csli.Stanford.EDU> Summary: song of solomon Organization: out in linguistics References: Date: Wed, 9 Feb 1994 18:24:23 GMT Lines: 36 in article aj796@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Tippi Chai) inquires: >On the new Kate Bush album there's a song with the following lines: > >"I'll be the Rose of Sharon for you > I'll be the Lily of the Valley for you > I'll be Isolde and Marion for you..." > >Isolde is the love of Prince Tristan, and [Maid] Marion is Robinhood's >sweetie. So what is the significance of the two plants mentioned >with regards to love? from the song of solomon, in the king james version, chapter 2: I am the rose of Sharon, and the lily of the valleys. As the lily among thorns, so is my love among the daughters. As the apple tree among the trees of the wood, so is my beloved among the sons. I sat down under his shadow with great delight, and his fruit was sweet to my taste. He brought me to the banqueting house, and his banner over me was love. Stay me with flagons, comfort me with apples; for i am sick of love. (there's more, some of it distinctly racy.) it was set to music - four-part vocal harmony - by william billings in 1778. check out page 254 in the 1991 edition of _the sacred harp_ (the shape-note singer's bible). arnold From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!convex!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:18:47 EST 1994 Article: 26443 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!convex!usenet From: (The honey bunny) Newsgroups: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Date: 9 Feb 1994 19:33:10 GMT Organization: CONVEX Computer Corp, Richardson, TX USA Lines: 21 Message-ID: <2jbdpm$cen@convex.convex.com> References: <9402052242595.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> <1994Feb8.231743.26570@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> Reply-To: tonyp@convex.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: cnvxla.convex.com Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:71282 alt.config:24226 rec.gardens:26443 misc.rural:7728 In article <1994Feb8.231743.26570@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>, MAC wrote: }In article , }Steve Crumley wrote: }>In article <9402052242595.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com>, ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) writes: }>|> >I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. }>|> }>I just started keeping bees and would love get in touch with other beekeepers! } }They're all busy!!@! } }MAC - ba dum dum tisssss I'll bet it will be one honey of a newsgroup... -- Tony J. Podrasky Contrary to commercials, No self-respecting San Diego , Ca Cowboy or Off-roader would be caught *dead* tonyp@convex.com driving a non U.S. made pick-up truck. QSL? QRU? QRZ? QLZ? QFA? It's either American or walk. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!cedarnet!cedarville.edu!S1000657 Wed Feb 9 18:18:50 EST 1994 Article: 26444 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!cedarnet!cedarville.edu!S1000657 From: S1000657@cedarville.edu (Roger Hayden) Subject: Christmas pine Message-ID: Lines: 16 Sender: news@cedarville.edu Organization: Cedarville College, Cedarville, OH Date: Wed, 9 Feb 1994 19:37:44 GMT 2 - 9 - 94 My wife was given a small potted pine for Christmas. It was about nine inches high and I pruned it back to seven. I believe the label read pineas pinea. I have tried to keep it alive but now the end of each branch is drooping where the most growth had been taking place. We live in a basement apartment so the window it sits under doesn't get a lot direct light. I have also noticed that little spots of mold are appearing on the surface of the growing soil. The soil is kept quite moist. Is the tree wilting from lack of light? or would overwatering be a more likely culprit? How warm must it be if I want to set it outside to get more light? Scott Hayden s1000657.cedarville.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!news.service.uci.edu!unogate!mvb.saic.com!typhoon.osg.saic.com!osg.saic.com!mark Wed Feb 9 18:18:52 EST 1994 Article: 26445 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!news.service.uci.edu!unogate!mvb.saic.com!typhoon.osg.saic.com!osg.saic.com!mark From: mark@osg.saic.com (Mark Boriack) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Norway Maple roots Date: 9 Feb 1994 19:32:48 GMT Organization: SAIC Lines: 36 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jbdp0$f0p@typhoon.osg.saic.com> References: Reply-To: mark@osg.saic.com NNTP-Posting-Host: wonka.osg.saic.com In article , macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) writes: > I am starting a garden in my small city plot (1000 ft2). The only > existing plantings are several mature (60'+) Norway Maples (Acer > pseudoplatanoides (sp?)). I am having them pruned heavily to let some > sun in, but I still wonder about the roots, which I understand are > very shallow and compete with garden plants. > > To what extent can I cut roots when digging beds without killing the > trees? Do I have to rely exclusively on raised beds? Does landscape > fabric help keep the tree roots out of beds? > > Any other hints? > > Thanks > > -s > I handled a similar problem by moving... Unless you are a man of rare strength, you will get tired of hacking tree roots before you sever enough to seriously affect the trees. You will probably just stimulate them to grow more roots. Raised beds are only a short term solution, as the roots will grow up into them. Fabric will not deter them. You might try growing in containers, i.e., with bottoms. Good luck!!! -- mark@osg.saic.com Pereant, inquit, qui ante nos nostra dixerunt. "Confound those who have said our remarks before us." -- Aelius Donatus From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes Wed Feb 9 18:18:53 EST 1994 Article: 26446 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!cupnews0.cup.hp.com!news1.boi.hp.com!hypes From: hypes@boi.hp.com (Gary Hypes) Subject: What's in Dallas? Sender: news@boi.hp.com (Boise Site News Server) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 9 Feb 1994 19:58:33 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: hpbs114.boi.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard / Boise, Idaho X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Lines: 7 I will be making a business trip to Dallas next week (2/16-2/19). Are there any especially great garden/seed shops to check out while I'm there? Specialty shops, e.g., peppers? Thx, Gary Hypes From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af280 Wed Feb 9 18:18:56 EST 1994 Article: 26447 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af280 From: af280@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Sandra P. Hoffman) Subject: Re: Potato Bugs and Yellow Worms Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: af280@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Sandra P. Hoffman) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <2j9bjr$ilg@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> <19940204.20531520.amusson@delphi.com> <9@oeonline.UUCP> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 1994 20:16:58 GMT Lines: 15 In a previous article, hmiddlet@uoguelph.ca (Heather Middleton) says: >The covering on the ground actually might help give them a better place to >pupate ( developing from a larvae to an adult ). Hand picking has always >been the BEST method ( if you have the time ) and put them in soapy water >to make sure they are really dead. While you are picking them, watch out >for those buggers who fall of the plant and play dead. I wondered why they didn't run away when they got knocked off a plant. They didn't have me fooled though :-) -- af280@freenet.carleton.ca From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland Wed Feb 9 18:18:57 EST 1994 Article: 26448 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!milano!photon.mcc.com!breland From: breland@photon.mcc.com (Mark A. Breland) Subject: Re: I need help with Bulb problems Message-ID: Sender: news@mcc.com Reply-To: breland@photon.mcc.com Organization: MCC References: <2jb64t$pml@agate.berkeley.edu> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 1994 19:09:15 GMT Lines: 25 In article pml@agate.berkeley.edu, Lisa Hamilton () writes: > >I originally had some perlite in the bottom of the pots and mixed some >humus into the mid layer of potting soil also to increase aeration. But >this seemed to be holding the moisture against the bulbs, so I removed >most of the humus and mixed the perlite into the soil itself. Still the >soil is soggy. But can this be the whole source of my problems? Definitely sounds like you (or your bulbs, rather) are overwet. My crocuses, daffodils, narcissus, and hyacinths have been outdoors and have come up, but had been taking their time blooming. Things have been somewhat dry lately (and warm with a false spring) so I watered the bed down heavily about midday Sunday. By evening the hyacinths had shoved their bloom spikes up about an inch and another two inches by Monday afternoon! Now they're all ablaze. I'm not a bulb expert, but sounds like the best approach calls for heavy watering at planting time, more watering as the leaves break the surface, then withhold water and let them dry a little until you can see the flower spikes, then water 'em hard again and watch 'em take off... Good luck. --- Mark A. Breland - Microelectronics and Computer Technology Corporation (MCC) Advanced Systems and Networks | voice: (512) 338-3509 3500 West Balcones Center Drive | FAX: (512) 338-3900 Austin, Texas 78759-6509 USA | internet: breland@mcc.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling Wed Feb 9 18:18:58 EST 1994 Article: 26449 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: lighting question Message-ID: <1994Feb9.212801.13305@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: <2jbb2k$a32@convex.convex.com> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 1994 21:28:01 GMT Lines: 24 In article <2jbb2k$a32@convex.convex.com> brohard@convex.com (James Brohard) writes: > > I am currently using fluorescent lighting to start my seeds for the >garden and was wondering, is there a general rule of how much light >is needed for good success? Currently I have 2 bulb 2-foot light fixtures >over the plant trays for a total of 40 watts for each level of plant trays. > > Because of the stories on the net where people are talking about the >sprouts falling over due to lack of light, I'm thinking of adding another >2 bulbs for a total of 4 or 80 watts over each level of trays, but need to >know if it's really necessary. I start tomato seedlings under just such a setup, and even when the seedlings are extremely close (one-half inch) to the bulbs, this is not enough light to keep them from getting a bit spindly. I'm planning on building a three bulb setup this weekend and seeing if that helps, as well as trying the bit about surrounding the area with aluminum foil covered cardboard to reflect light. -- Karen Kolling kolling@adobe.com ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk Wed Feb 9 18:19:00 EST 1994 Article: 26450 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk From: mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey Date: 9 Feb 1994 21:29:04 GMT Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jbkj0$au@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> References: <1994Feb8.005550.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> <2jb76f$fv0@crl.crl.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: venus.larc.nasa.gov In article <2jb76f$fv0@crl.crl.com>, hempster@crl.com (Alan Silverman) writes: |> >3. What five things do you consider to be in the worst taste? |> |> Ivy, IVY, ivy, Ivy, and if I forgot to say, IVY! |> Well, how do you get rid of it once you've got it?!? Melissa From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet Wed Feb 9 18:19:01 EST 1994 Article: 26451 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet From: white@eng.gtefsd.com (Lisa White) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Will spring bulbs keep? Date: 9 Feb 1994 22:18:44 GMT Organization: GTE Federal Systems Division, GSC Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jbng4$es5@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> Reply-To: white@eng.gtefsd.com NNTP-Posting-Host: packard.eng.gtefsd.com Hi folks, At the beginning of last fall I decided to build a low stone wall (dry) in a big empty area of the yard of my newly built (read poorly landscaped by the builder) house. My plan was to plant spring bulbs in clumps close to the wall, with some creeping phlox in places on top of the wall. Well, what an ambitious project this was. I dug the foundation, collected stones from building sites close to my house, and laid the stones. I got to 3 inches above ground level before the extreme cold we've had this winter kicked in. I now figure I have a good 50 hours of really hard work still to do. Needless to say, the bulbs I bought did not get planted. I am hoping against hope that they will keep over til next fall. What can I do to save them, or at least some of them? I am sitting on the fence between zones 6-7, in northern Virginia, USA. The bulbs have stayed in brown paper bags in the garage. I have daffodils, crocuses (croci?), grape hyacinths, a few tulips, and a few bearded iris. Please tell me if all is lost, or what I can do to mitigate my losses. I feel like I never learn to bite off only what I can chew! Thanks in advance, -- Lisa W. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!main.morris.org!main.morris.org!ROUKENS Wed Feb 9 18:19:02 EST 1994 Article: 26452 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!main.morris.org!main.morris.org!ROUKENS Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Ninfa, Italy Message-ID: <1994Feb9.163303.316@main.morris.org> From: roukens@main.morris.org (JOANNE P. ROUKENS, MORRIS COUNTY LIBRARY) Date: 9 Feb 94 16:32:49 -0500 Reply-To: roukens@main.morris.org Organization: Morris Automated Information Network Nntp-Posting-Host: main.morris.org Lines: 13 Has anyone been to the gardens/park in Ninfa, Italy? It is an abandoned medieval town and a part of it has been developed into naturalistic not formal gardens. It was featured in one of the episodes of the gardens of the world series hosted by Audrey Hepburn. I have found it mentioned in only two travel guides to Italy. The Blue Guide to Southern Italy says it is open April to October on the first Saturday and Sunday of the month. I can find NO further info and no address or phone number to contact. The Italian Tourist office in NYC was of no help. I don't know if this is the correct or best place to post this inquiry, but I would appreciate any possible help or suggestions. Thanks very much and you can e-mail me directly at: ROUKENS@MAIN.MORRIS.ORG Joanne P. Roukens roukens@main.morris.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!turquoise.spcomm.uiuc.edu!user Wed Feb 9 18:19:03 EST 1994 Article: 26453 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!turquoise.spcomm.uiuc.edu!user From: mikka@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Mikka Whiteaker) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: central IL bushes Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 9 Feb 1994 22:43:24 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 5 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: turquoise.spcomm.uiuc.edu I am interested in a small bush (no taller than 4 to 5 feet) that will survive the somewhat harsh Central Illinois winters. Does anyone have any ideas. Honey suckle, lilacs, burnign bushes? I am at a loss as to what does well in this area! Oh yah, and full sun in the afternoons. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!waikato!canterbury.ac.nz!southpower.co.nz!ccc.govt.nz!andrew Wed Feb 9 18:19:04 EST 1994 Article: 26454 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!waikato!canterbury.ac.nz!southpower.co.nz!ccc.govt.nz!andrew Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Yellowing Leaves! HELP! Message-ID: <1994Feb10.104127.2273@ccc.govt.nz> From: andrew@ccc.govt.nz (Andrew Groom) Date: 10 Feb 94 10:41:27 NZDT References: <2j22n6$4fc@illuminati.io.com> Organization: Christchurch City Council, New Zealand. Lines: 15 In article <2j22n6$4fc@illuminati.io.com>, mentor@indial1.io.com (Loyd Blankenship) writes: > The problem is that the edges of some of the leaves are turning yellow! > It doesn't look good. Is this a nitrogen defeciency? Or is it a sign that > they were over-fed? Or is it something else? I'd also be interested in the cause of this. Cheers, Andrew. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Andrew Groom Phone: (03) 3711 862 GIS Business analyst, MIS Fax: (03) 3711 789 Christchurch City Council Email: andrew@ccc.govt.nz P.O. Box 237, Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND -------------------------------------------------------------------------------