From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!quack!quack.kfu.com!pharvey Fri Feb 18 16:59:15 EST 1994 Article: 26490 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!quack!quack.kfu.com!pharvey From: pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey) Subject: Re: Nonsucculent drought tolerant plants how do they do it? Message-ID: Sender: news@quack.kfu.com (0000-News(0000)) Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'. References: <1994Feb4.074516.13717@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> Date: 8 Feb 1994 04:21:57 UTC Lines: 88 In article <1994Feb4.074516.13717@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> nathan@seldon.foundation.tricon.com (Number 6) writes: >This may be somewhat technical, but I am interested in any information >concerning nonsucculent drought tolerant plants and their methods of >survival. Hmm, OK, I'll take a wack at it. Succulent is a technical term in botany. I'm not so sure that they are that common among native central California plants. Certainly they are popular as introduced species. >I have quite a few native plants that have come up recently >due to the nice rains we've gotten (still below normal by quite a bit, >but enough to trigger growth for the first time in our new home) here >in Central California. I've seen *many* unidentified plants (not >weeds, thankfully!) come up in my garden and I don't want to destroy >them (I carefully move them to my "native plant area", which is really >my "whatever I find in the garden I don't know what it is but want to >see what it becomes" area! :) Well, just because it's drought tolerant doesn't make it native. Plants that are native to the Mediterranean love California, particularly central Ca, and are much better adapted to human environments having lived with man much longer. But - quite likely there are some natives in the bunch. With any luck you actually have some of the native flora to your specific site - which is quite important in California as the local climates are quite variable. >Several succulents have come up small iceplant like critters. Hmm, ice plant like??? There is an iceplant that may be native to San Diego county but in general the various ice plants and ice plant likes are introduced. >Several taprooted "weeds" have come up, but they look sufficiently >unlike weeds that I kept them (and do have pretty flowers). Hmm - what's a weed? Pretty flowers??? If they are too pretty I'd think you've got some escaped hybrids. Taproot doesn't mean much. >And, >several very pretty orange/yellow blooming plants with blade type >leaves have come up (or have come back to life). Oh, I don't know - not much of a description to go on. I'd guess you should at least have some native lilies - such as the soap lily (wavy leaves). >I am most interested in the orange/yellow plants they have been in >the garden for many years (from what neighbors tell me, I've only >owned the place 6 months). They have apparently survived the 6 year >drought. (The previous owners *never* watered). But they are not >succulent. They form clumps and seem to divide best that way, though >they do natively reseed themselves and are perennials. Keep in mind that a six year drought is a big deal to us humans who haven't lived in California for all that long - but I'm sure native plants have seen worse. >So basically, how can a nonsucculent survive dry conditions? I know >some plants have oils in them to help prevent moisture loss. What are >some of the other strategies? (Some plants have tremendous root >structures, but the little yellow/orange things do not). OK. There are lots of strategies. One is just to grow when it rains and set seed and then die - then the seeds lie dormant for many years waiting for the next heavy rains. Another approach is to develop a bulb underground which lies dormant until heavy rains. A common approach in perennials is to have narrow leaves, often waxy, and pores only on the bottom of the leaf which are open only in the morning hours - thus conserving water. California Buckeye trees just go dormant early (~July). Also, moisture from dew or fog drip can be significant (i.e. the Coastal Redwood belt). >I noticed the yellow/orange plants were kind of dingy and not >noticable until they exploded after the first rains. > >Any pointers would be helpful. They are truly beautiful plants and >will have a permanent home in my landscaping now that I've seen them >flower. (And how they survive with no water or rain for 5 months!) Could be worse - at least the ground didn't freeze solid for months. >Let me note one more thing I live in Western Gardens zone 16 85% >influenced by the ocean, 15% inland. We get *a lot* of fog in the >summer, but it's not tremendously wet. I don't think these little >plants could grab anything by having fog drip off their leaves. Fog drip is quite significant. It's like drip irrigation every morning. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Fri Feb 18 16:59:18 EST 1994 Article: 26491 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: advice re: inhospitable roses? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 10 Feb 94 22:23:14 EST References: Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 27 DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) writes: > Hi again, > > I was just talking to a friend of mine who wants to add new (old!) roses to > an existing bed. She's afraid to try, though, because she's heard that the > established bushes emit some sort of, oh, I don't know, *force* that will > kill the newcomer. Sounds odd to me, but then again this woman has been > growing roses for ten years. So what she's wondering is, 1) can anyone > confirm, explain, or refute this ugly rumor, and 2) is there any other plant > which could be planted among her roses which would absorb the toxic > substance? Let me get this straight-she's grown roses for 10 years and her own experience doesn't tell her the answer? Yes, I've heard of rose sick soil (the Brits particularly hold this theory dear), but I've never had a rose in my garden kill neighboring roses. Way back when I first started growing roses, I grew them in whiskey barrels with two or three shrubs to a barrel and they thrived there. Taking out and adding plants had no effect that I could see. Nowadays I have a "real" garden and am always reevaluating whether or not I love or hate a given rose. The ones I hate get tossed and replaced with something new that I want to try, and I've never seen a skirmish between the newcomers and the old residents yet. :) Garry Williams g.williams42@genie.geis.com gdwill@salzo.cary.nc.us From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Fri Feb 18 16:59:19 EST 1994 Article: 26492 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: inhospitable roses? Message-ID: <2XckHc5w165w@salzo.Cary.NC.US> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 94 22:30:48 EST References: <2jebhr$sh7@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 41 leppik@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (leppik peter) writes: > DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) writes: > > >A friend of mine is longing to add some new (old!) roses to an existing bed, > >but is afraid to try because she's read something about how the existing > >bushes emit some sort of toxic substance which will kill off the newcomers. > >How uncivilized--can this be true? Can anyone confirm or refute, or, as a > >last resort, explain this hideous phenomenon? > > You aren't "supposed" to plant new roses in beds that had previously > contained rose bushes, not because of any toxic substance, but because the > previous rose bush will have depleted the soil of needed nutrients. > > I'd say, go ahead and plant more roses anyway. The worst that can happen > is that they'll die, and you'll be forced to plant something without > thorns.... > > -- > Peter Leppik-- p-leppi@uiuc.edu > > Assistant Head, Department of Mad Science > University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign Actually, some people do hold that the soil where a rose was previously grown is toxic to new roses planted in the same location. I personally do not subscribe to this theory, although I might believe that there is some depletion of soil nutrients. The thing to do is to amend the soil before planting the new roses just as if the bed were being made for the first time. Add compost, composted manure, and whatever other materials might be needed as suggested by the results of a soil test. Soil tests can be done either for free or for a low fee, depending on the state, by the cooperative extension service of many states. Look in the blue pages in the phone book under county goverment to find the cooperative extension service number in your area (if your state has this program). Also find the local rose society for specific experience with growing roses in your area. Garry Williams g.williams42@genie.geis.com gdwill@salzo.cary.nc.us From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson Fri Feb 18 16:59:20 EST 1994 Article: 26493 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mail Order - A High Country Garden Message-ID: <15.2d59e7b3@axolotl> Date: 09 Feb 94 14:38:59 CST Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City Sender: news@axolotl.omahug.org (UUscan 1.10) Followup-To: rec.gardens Lines: 24 mlw@cisco.com (Monica Waldman) writes: > I received an interesting plant catalog from A High Country Garden. Does > anyone have experience ordering plants from them? I too got a catalog from them, but last year. I'd just finished some library books about many of the wilflowers they offered for sale. In fact, they're the only source for Agastache cana that I know of. Although this plant was described as marginally hardy in my area (USDA Zone 5b), it did very well here, although I'll know more if it survives our winter weather. I placed an order for 7 plants from them and they all arrived in very good condition. One thing about them I like is that you specify when you want the plants to arrive, but I don't like the fact that you must order at least 6 plants. Hope this helps. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Bob Batson bob.batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org | E-mail address bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org | Backup address ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Under the most controlled conditions, the experimental apparatus will do exactly as it pleases. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!warwick!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Fri Feb 18 16:59:21 EST 1994 Article: 26494 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!warwick!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: lost in space! Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: Date: Thu, 10 Feb 1994 18:36:51 GMT Lines: 30 In article harsh@austin.ibm.com (Harsh Sharma) writes: >In article DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) writes: >>Help! I've sent the same message to this group three times and it looks >>as if it's bouncing back to me! If anyone sees this message, or a question >>about David Austin books, would you please take a second to let me know I'm >>getting through? >> >>thanks--donna > >Hear you loud and clear ! (all three messages :-)) > >Harsh- > /* my views */ If you read the news, post an item to a newsgroup, and then read the news immediately again, the odds are pretty good that the only item you'll see is your own. This doesn't mean that things are "bouncing back". This means that the item you just wrote is posted to the news group at your local site. This happens right away. You can see your item right away. When you do, it means that your message has indeed started on its journey throughout the entire civilized world. The next time there's a news interchange at your site, your item will get propagated throughout the net, and new items will be added to the newsgroup at your local site. It can take anywhere from minutes to hours to even a few days for your item to get delivered to all of the readers of rec.gardens. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah Fri Feb 18 16:59:21 EST 1994 Article: 26495 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah From: leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seedling Problem Message-ID: <1342@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 10 Feb 94 22:19:33 GMT References: <1994Feb2.181113.19131@relay.nswc.navy.mil> Reply-To: leah@smith.chi.il.us (L.A.Z. Smith) Organization: R. H. E. Smith Corp., Wheeling, IL Lines: 6 For those of you who aren't totally committed to organic methods, adding a mild fungicide to the water when you water or mist your seedlings helps to avoid damp off. There are a few brands made especially for seedlings but a dilute mixture of any garden fungicide ought to work. Leah Smith leah@smith.chi.il.us From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah Fri Feb 18 16:59:23 EST 1994 Article: 26496 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah From: leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mellingers? Message-ID: <1343@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 10 Feb 94 22:47:08 GMT References: <1994Feb3.142252.7829@brtph560.bnr.ca> <2itkmlINN4k0@talos4.sps.mot.com> Reply-To: leah@smith.chi.il.us (L.A.Z. Smith) Organization: R. H. E. Smith Corp., Wheeling, IL Lines: 56 In article <1994Feb3.142252.7829@brtph560.bnr.ca> Emily Smith, emilys@brtph7cc.bnr.ca writes: >>Has anyone had any good or bad experiences with plant material >>ordered from Mellinger's? I have had good experiences with non- >>plant material, but would like to place a plant order. They >>sell many perennials, shrubs, trees; give Latin names, and have >>a bit more reasonable prices than Bluestone (but not *cheap* like >>Michigan Bulb and the like). They offer a one-year guarantee on >>all plants. In article <2itkmlINN4k0@talos4.sps.mot.com> jerry_l_young@oakqm3.sps.mot.com (Jerry Young) writes: >I had bad luck with them. I made an order in in mid-winter and it didn't >arrive until April. Well, Mellingers is in Ohio, so they are not going to be able to ship much nursery stock in the winter. I'm pretty sure their catalog does mention their earliest shipping times. >The plant was shipped bare-root (I was trying to grow >a dogwood in Austin, TX. Not a common plant, but you see them around). It >quickly fried, I called them back and explained the problem -- esp that >bare-root planting in Austin TX is not a good idea in April , and they >sent me a replacement tree -- the following April, also bare-root, and it >also of course died. They refused to replace it or refund my money -- and >it was not a cheap tree. The catalog also mentions that the stock is bare-root. Probably you should have had them ship the replacement tree for fall planting. In general, though, it's a good idea to order nursery stock (trees, large shrubs, etc.) from companies in your zone. I do know others who've had mixed success with trees from Mellinger's, mostly having to do with shipping problems. For smaller plants, though, I've had fine results from Mellinger's. I've ordered a variety of herbs and other perennials and had no trouble. The one thing about most mail order plants, though, is you get the best results if you plant IMMEDIATELY. If the plants come on Monday and you let them sit around until the weekend they are not going to do as well as if you go out and plant them that night. They're already stressed from the shipping, and letting them sit longer really can make a difference. >I can be sympathetic to the complications of trying to send plants out to >all parts of the country, but it is the business they are in, and lots of >people do much, much better. They have a nice catalog and good prices, >especially compared to Wayside, but when the Mellinger's catalog comes, I >don't tempt myself by opening it. Much better luck with ForestFarm, Yucca >Du, and Heronswood. Well, I'm in Chicago, which is pretty similar, climate-wise, to Ohio, so that may be why I've had better luck. The original poster seems to be in Canada; I don't know how much customs slows things down, but Melliger's guarantee at least gives you a chance to get replacements if things don't work out. Leah Smith leah@smith.chi.il.us From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Fri Feb 18 16:59:24 EST 1994 Article: 26497 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: help with carrots Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: <1994Feb3.022119.12404@k12.ucs.umass.edu> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 1994 18:54:13 GMT Lines: 36 In article <1994Feb3.022119.12404@k12.ucs.umass.edu> jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) writes: > >I am an organic gardener in Western Mass. and have had a lot of success with >everything except carrots. Each year I give them the old college try, but >before I can even find evidence of sprouts, the weeds have all but made it >impossible to keep track of them. Any help would be much appreciated..Jeff >-- > >Jeff Kenney Great Falls Middle School/Science >"A boy's will is the wind's will, >and the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts". My problem with carrots was mainly that I didn't quite managed to keep them damp for the whole time it took them to germinate. So I started soaking the seeds in a small dish of water, just until the first few started to look like they were sprouting. Then I gently scattered them on the prepared soil, and covered with a sand/soil mix, to make it really easy for them to sprout (avoiding a tough soil crust.) This seemed to lead to much better germination rates. If the weeds get that far ahead of your seedlings, maybe you need better soil-prep? * You're probably using compost, right? Is it really getting hot enough to kill weed seeds? Mine often doesn't, so I try to avoid putting really seedy stuff in it. Do your best to get it hot, turn it more often to get the seeds to sprout and die in the pile, etc, to get rid of the weed seeds at the source. * You might try soil solarization to help kill weed seeds. * Alternatively, when you've decided where to plant the carrots, water well, and keep lightly tilling the top inch or so of soil for a few weeks before you plant the carrots. This will hopefully germinate the seeds in the top part of the soil. Towards the end of this rest period, disturb the soil as little as possible to avoid bringing more weeds to the surface. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Fri Feb 18 16:59:25 EST 1994 Article: 26498 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: High Intensity Discharge Lights Message-ID: Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: <063314Z03021994@anon.penet.fi> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 1994 19:03:17 GMT Lines: 24 In article <063314Z03021994@anon.penet.fi> an48674@anon.penet.fi writes: > > I am also looking for cheap/reliable >lighting for my indoor (winter) garden. Lately, >it seems that legitimate indoor gardeners, like >me, have become the target of investigation for >purchasing equipment. In one case, the FBI/DEA >actually set up a garden supply house and took >down the names of anyone who wanted to do business >with them, got search warrents, well, you get the >picture. Considering that I am a long-haired >organic gardening type, I already get more than >enough grief. So you can understand my >reluctance. I've heard about this...there's an "Indoor Gardening Center" near me, that has hard-to-find garden items: lights, heating cables, "greenhouse flats" (waterproof flat, right size to hold a standard plastic flat, with clear-plastic roof to fit). Whenever I shop there, I pay cash. Consider getting the major parts and pieces of your lighting system through a hardware supplier, rather than a gardening supplier. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!news.gsfc.nasa.gov!news!garlow Fri Feb 18 16:59:27 EST 1994 Article: 26499 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!cs.umd.edu!news.gsfc.nasa.gov!news!garlow From: garlow@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov (Joanne Garlow) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey Date: 11 Feb 1994 10:28:16 GMT Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt, MD Lines: 9 Message-ID: References: <1994Feb8.005550.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> <2jb76f$fv0@crl.crl.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In-reply-to: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com's message of Wed, 9 Feb 1994 23:05:43 GMT A neighbor of my parents moved and and pulled up every bush and plant in the yard - including a lot of beautiful natural mountain laurel. Their once lush, low maintenance, wooded lot is now lawn. I considered this to be the height of bad taste. -- Joanne Hartman Garlow garlow@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!cs.umd.edu!news.gsfc.nasa.gov!news!garlow Fri Feb 18 16:59:28 EST 1994 Article: 26500 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!cs.umd.edu!news.gsfc.nasa.gov!news!garlow From: garlow@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov (Joanne Garlow) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Clay Soil Date: 11 Feb 1994 10:42:46 GMT Organization: Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt, MD Lines: 19 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <2j8snu$qs6@genesis.ait.psu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In-reply-to: gho@cac.psu.edu's message of 8 Feb 1994 20:29:50 GMT I have the same type of soil and when I just planted a bunch of azaleas, I was told dig a hole about twice the size of the root ball, and then dig a small hole another 3-6 inches deep at the bottom of that hole - this second hole can be only a few inches wide. Fill that hole will small stones to draw the water away from the plant, and then plant the plant as normal. I have to admit that digging a deep, although small, hole in the clay was beyond my strength - my husband had to pound away for a while. But we've had a lot of rain and snow lately and my plants aren't sitting in water like the rest of my yard is. So you may try this second deep hole filled with stones method - maybe every foot or so along the bed. -- Joanne Hartman Garlow garlow@sunland.gsfc.nasa.gov From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!lsl!clarke Fri Feb 18 16:59:28 EST 1994 Article: 26501 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Will spring bulbs keep? Message-ID: <1994Feb11.105145.4121@lsl.co.uk> Date: 11 Feb 94 10:51:45 +0100 References: <2jbng4$es5@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> Distribution: world Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 13 In article <2jbng4$es5@europa.eng.gtefsd.com>, white@eng.gtefsd.com (Lisa White) writes: > > ... bulbs not yet planted because site not ready - will they keep? In my opinion, they won't keep. They will attempt to grow even if still in their paper bag, and this will prove fatal if they don't find any soil, nutrient, light, water etc. Plant them, anywhere, temporarily. It might not be too late - as bulbs must be amongst the most amenable plants. Then dig them up again in Autumn if the site is ready by then. Clarke Brunt From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!EU.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!twg.com!eco.twg.com!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp Fri Feb 18 16:59:29 EST 1994 Article: 26502 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!EU.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!twg.com!eco.twg.com!psinntp!halon!sybase!karenp From: karenp@sybase.com (Karen Paulsell) Subject: Re: Colorado perennials Message-ID: Keywords: perennials Sender: usenet@sybase.com Organization: Sybase, Inc. References: <2igllb$lf4@suntan.eng.usf.edu> <2ir8us$bh9@slinky.cs.nyu.edu> Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 10 Feb 1994 19:07:34 GMT Lines: 8 In article <2igllb$lf4@suntan.eng.usf.edu>, lsherry@madonna.ec.usf.edu. (Lorraine Sherry) writes: > I'd appreciate any guidelines you could give me as a soon-to-be > novice Colorado gardener. Sunset Magazine periodically has "Rocky Mountain Gardening" type articles, might be worthwhile to skim a bunch of back issues at the library. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 16:59:30 EST 1994 Article: 26503 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail From: tillman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Fred Tillman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Yellowing Leaves! HELP! Date: 11 Feb 1994 07:38:44 -0500 Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 4 Message-ID: <2jfu8kINNdgl@oasys.dt.navy.mil> References: <2j22n6$4fc@illuminati.io.com> <1994Feb10.104127.2273@ccc.govt.nz> Reply-To: tillman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Fred Tillman) NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil Andrew, I have read that yellow ends are a sign of iron defficiency. The addition of liquid iron chelate to the roots is indicated. Fred From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!news.moneng.mei.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!isuvax.iastate.edu!TNEZ3 Fri Feb 18 16:59:31 EST 1994 Article: 26504 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!news.moneng.mei.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!isuvax.iastate.edu!TNEZ3 From: tnez3@isuvax.iastate.edu (april ammons) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bottom heat for Seedlings Date: 11 Feb 1994 13:46:11 GMT Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa Lines: 13 Message-ID: <2jg273$mc8@news.iastate.edu> References: , Reply-To: tnez3@isuvax.iastate.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: isuvax.iastate.edu In article , sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes: >It's really too cold here at nights, and I'd like to get a jump on the season >with my tomatoes and peppers, and it might be a good source of "bottom heat". >On the other hand, if I'm not careful, I might fry their butts! > >--Kim Fisher I can't vouch for your dehydrator (maybe you could stick a thermometer in there to check first?) If the temps are low enough, it seems like a good idea. I use an athletic heating pad purchased at K-mart set under my seedlings, usually on low or medium heat . April From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!vnet.IBM.COM Fri Feb 18 16:59:31 EST 1994 Article: 26505 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!vnet.IBM.COM From: gawilson@vnet.IBM.COM (Gale A. Wilson) Message-ID: <19940211.071831.49@almaden.ibm.com> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 94 09:07:05 CST Subject: How deep the soil? Newsgroups: rec.gardens Lines: 14 I'd like to start a modest vegetable garden in my back yard. My yard is basically 3.5" to 6" of good soil on top of limestone rock shelf. Grass has a real struggle where the soil is less than 4-5" deep. I understand that the rock heats-up in the summer, which doesn't help the grass through the shallow soil layer. Question is, how much more soil should I add; or rather, what should the total soil depth be in this situation? I don't want too many restrictions on what I can grow. I was thinking of getting some 2x10" planks, making a box and adding about 6" of new soil. Would this work? Sorry if this is an elementary question - I've not seen this subject in the "beginner" books I'm looking through. Thanks, gale From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!convex!news.oc.com!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!caen!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!usenet.ufl.edu!chip.cba.ufl.edu!NSX Fri Feb 18 16:59:32 EST 1994 Article: 26506 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!convex!news.oc.com!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!caen!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!usenet.ufl.edu!chip.cba.ufl.edu!NSX From: NSX@chip.cba.ufl.edu (Mark Sterling) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Michigan Bulb Company : SUMMARY Date: Fri, 11 Feb 1994 15:55:05 GMT Organization: College of Business, University of Florida Lines: 5 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.227.36.50 It was unanimous. Everybody who responded (through email) said to avoid them like the plague. They all also said it is much better to buy locally. Mark Sterling NSX@chip.cba.ufl.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!rand.org!Rand.ORG!Rodger_Madison Fri Feb 18 16:59:34 EST 1994 Article: 26507 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!rand.org!Rand.ORG!Rodger_Madison From: Rodger_Madison@Rand.ORG (Rodger Madison) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: inhospitable roses? Date: 11 Feb 1994 16:12:30 GMT Organization: RAND Corporation Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jgape$5j7@rand.org> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: didabal.rand.org Donna, I can't confirm or refute, I think we need a real expert to address that question. I can offer an explanation. There are other plants (I believe Creosote is one) that are known to emit toxins into the soil. It is a defense (or rather an aggressive) mechanism that reduces the number of competitors in for soil resources. I don't know is there is other than anecdotal evidence that roses do this. It wouldn't surprise me if they did, thorns are not exactly civilized. Rodger In article , DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) writes: |> A friend of mine is longing to add some new (old!) roses to an existing bed, |> but is afraid to try because she's read something about how the existing |> bushes emit some sort of toxic substance which will kill off the newcomers. |> How uncivilized--can this be true? Can anyone confirm or refute, or, as a |> last resort, explain this hideous phenomenon? |> |> By the way, thanks to all who offered David Austin book reviews. I'm |> anxiously awaiting the arrival of the big shiny one! |> |> --donna From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gallux.gallaudet.edu!gallua.gallaudet.edu!rlwilliams Fri Feb 18 16:59:34 EST 1994 Article: 26508 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gallux.gallaudet.edu!gallua.gallaudet.edu!rlwilliams From: rlwilliams@gallua.gallaudet.edu (Robert Williams) Subject: Re: Cats in yard... Message-ID: <1994Feb11.112625.1@gallua.gallaudet.edu> Lines: 21 Sender: news@gallux.gallaudet.edu (News manager) Organization: Gallaudet University References: <1994Feb8.164553.9196@ncsu.edu> <1994Feb9.155749.10474@govonca.gov.on.ca> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 1994 16:26:25 GMT In article <1994Feb9.155749.10474@govonca.gov.on.ca>, thackerb@govonca.gov.on.ca (Bruce Thacker) writes: > Why must people who do not own a cat or dog (by choice) take > responsiblity for animals owned (presumably by choice) by others? > > Bruce Thacker > Thunder Bay, Ontario ========= to paraphrase Dr. Irwin Corey.... You have asked two questions. The first question is "WHY?" That is a question that has been asked down through the ages. Why, Why, Why. I could not even BEGIN to answer such a deep, profound and philosophical question such as "Why?" when wise men from the beginning of time have not been able to answer it. The second question you have asked is "Must people who do not own a cat or dog (by choice) take responsibilitity for animals owned (presumably by choice) by others?" The answer is "yes." skip rlwilliams@gallua.bitnet From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Fri Feb 18 16:59:35 EST 1994 Article: 26509 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Growing potatoes above ground Message-ID: <10@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 11 Feb 94 14:54:07 GMT References: Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 11 clb5q@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Cheryl L. Boyd) writes: > Has anyone had experience with growing potatos by just laying > them on top of the beds and covering them over with 6" of straw > or rotted hay mulch? I don't grow potatoes *entirely* above ground, but I do use a heavy mulch of hay and straw. This mulch should be AT LEAST 12 inches thick, possibly thicker, to avoid green potatoes. I place unsprouted, whole seed potatoes so that they are half buried in the soil, no closer than one per square foot. If I can, I prefer to use pre-sprouted potatoes. These I place in shallow holes and v-e-r-y gently cover with loose soil. (The soil supports/protects the fragile sprouts when you pile the hay on.) Next I mulch with old hay and/or straw, piling it up about 12" deep. I use some huge old pla nks tied together at the corners to confine the mulch to the potato bed. (My garden consists of 4' x 8' permanent beds, separated by paths mulched with old carpet.) Later in the season, I will add more hay as the original mulch settles. The majority of the tubers are formed at the surface, with an occasional spud below ground. As I harvest potatoes, I throw the mulch on top of the rest of the bed. I never harvest more than I need for a particular meal, and use the heavy mulch to store the potatoes _in situ_ as long as possible. (I would think if your mulch was thick enough, this could be all winter. I can't say, as we manage to eat all of our potatoes before the end of December...) -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!othello.ucdavis.edu!ez042951 Fri Feb 18 16:59:36 EST 1994 Article: 26510 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!othello.ucdavis.edu!ez042951 From: ez042951@othello.ucdavis.edu (Chris Haskell) Subject: Re: Cats in yard... Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Guru) Organization: University of California, Davis X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <1994Feb8.164553.9196@ncsu.edu> <1994Feb9.155749.10474@govonca.gov.on.ca> <2jersf$22v@vern.bga.com> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 1994 16:29:43 GMT Lines: 16 Elizabeth C. Copeland (liz@bga.com) wrote: : (And when I finally figure out how to do the : motion-detector activated sprinkling system, rec.gardens will be the : first to know....) What a great idea! At least for short term, something like this could be gerry-rigged (a la McGuiver) by using a motion detection light, a socket adaptor that allows one to plug in stuff to a light socket, and a solenoid controlled water flow device (home made or one of those programable water regulators). Another gardener with the firm belief that a damp cat is a cat who won't return. Chris U.C. Davis From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!lexmark!lexmark.com!DIGIROL Fri Feb 18 16:59:37 EST 1994 Article: 26511 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!lexmark!lexmark.com!DIGIROL From: DIGIROL@lexmark.com Subject: Re: Monarchs Sender: usenet@lexmark.com Message-ID: <16F5AB495.DIGIROL@lexmark.com> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 1994 17:50:29 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: lexvmc.lexmark.com Organization: Lexmark International, Lexington, KY X-Disclaimer: These views are the poster's and not necessarily those of Lexmark Lines: 8 Those big caterpillars were probably Monarchs. They seem to love Dill here in Kentucky. My kids pull them off and feed them lots of Dill. They love to watch them grow and then spin their cocoon. Many times they'll hatch and then watch them dry their wings and fly off. They are almost all black when very small (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long) and then turn black and bright green. Joel DiGirolamo digirol@lexmark.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!rolson Fri Feb 18 16:59:38 EST 1994 Article: 26512 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!rolson From: rolson@orion.it.luc.edu (Rick T. Olson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: compost materials Date: 11 Feb 1994 17:07:00 GMT Organization: Loyola University of Chicago Lines: 5 Message-ID: <2jgdvk$62p@apollo.it.luc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: orion.it.luc.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] I have read/heard that sawdust from plywood should not be added to a compost pile because of the glue used. Is this true? If so should we be concerned with the glue used on paper towel/toilet paper rolls? Thanks-- Rick From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!rolson Fri Feb 18 16:59:39 EST 1994 Article: 26513 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!rolson From: rolson@orion.it.luc.edu (Rick T. Olson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Morningglory from seed? Date: 11 Feb 1994 17:10:15 GMT Organization: Loyola University of Chicago Lines: 4 Message-ID: <2jge5n$62p@apollo.it.luc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: orion.it.luc.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] I have heard that morning glory does not transplant well and should be started from seed directly in the garden. Is this true? Thanks. --Rick From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!convex!news.oc.com!news.kei.com!eff!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!openlink.openlink.com!lanslide!hls.com!mannyb Fri Feb 18 16:59:40 EST 1994 Article: 26514 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!convex!news.oc.com!news.kei.com!eff!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!openlink.openlink.com!lanslide!hls.com!mannyb From: mannyb@hls.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Lawn Maintenance Message-ID: <7760@lanslide.hls.com> Date: 11 Feb 94 17:52:40 GMT Sender: root@lanslide.hls.com Lines: 6 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Help! Just invested in a beautiful bluegrass lawn (1yr old) and now the lawn appears to be dying. Yellowing and some invasion of foreign grasslike plants are taking place. Is the solution simply some weed pulling, fertilizer (recommendations), and some Spring sunshine. Northern California location, lawn faces due south. Post or E-Mail to mannyb@hls.com. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!news.ssc.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!att-in!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsb.cb.att.com!colten Fri Feb 18 16:59:41 EST 1994 Article: 26515 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!news.ssc.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!att-in!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsb.cb.att.com!colten From: colten@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (marc.colten) Subject: Re: mini tillers Message-ID: Summary: I need the same answers Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <2j5j3h$1aa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 1994 18:36:03 GMT Lines: 26 In article <2j5j3h$1aa@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu>, lunetta@umich.edu (Kathryn Lunetta) writes: > > I'm considering buying a mini tiller. I would use it in my fairly-small garden, and to help expand the garden. We have very heavy clay soil. The two brands I've read the most about are Mantis and Troy. I'd appreciate any comments on my main questions:> > > 1) can these mini tillers do all their promoters say they can? > 2) will they do any good in clay soil? > 3) is one clearly better than the other? > 4) are there other brands I should consider? > > Please send comments to my e-mail address: lunetta@umich.edu > > Thanks! I was going to leave a nearly identical message. I have been looking at ads for two models, one is the Gardener's Supply Company 1.6 HP model in this new catalog, and the other was a 5 HP Weed Eater Front Tine Tiller in the newest Home Depot flier. If anyone has any information , or a faq or review of tillers, or just the answer to the questions posted above, I would appreciate an response (via e-mail). thanks in advance. marc colten From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 16:59:42 EST 1994 Article: 26516 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail From: Jeff.Welch@launchpad.unc.edu (jeffrey ei]ugene       ugene welch) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: unicorn plants again Date: 11 Feb 1994 19:53:33 GMT Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service Lines: 14 Distribution: na Message-ID: <2jgnnt$o3i@samba.oit.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu I apoligize if people have seen this before, but I'm still finding my way around this posting system. Has anyone seen a source for the unicorn plant (Ibicella or Martynia or Proboscidea)? I'm specifically interested in Ibicella (Martynia) lutea, one with yellow flowers. Any help would be appreciated. Jeff in NC (zone 7) -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information Technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!convex!news.oc.com!news.unt.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ah812 Fri Feb 18 16:59:42 EST 1994 Article: 26517 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!convex!news.oc.com!news.unt.edu!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ah812 From: ah812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Ted Williamson) Subject: bonsai seedlings Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Fri, 11 Feb 1994 19:50:02 GMT Lines: 10 Would anyone know where I could find seeds or seedlings for bonsai trees (especially Japanese varieties) in the Ottawa area? I want to start growing from scratch rather than buying a pre-shaped tree. I would really appreciate it if anyone could help me in my search. -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk Fri Feb 18 16:59:43 EST 1994 Article: 26518 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk From: mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Perennial seeds that look "fuzzy" Date: 11 Feb 1994 19:39:05 GMT Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA Lines: 17 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jgmsp$jse@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: venus.larc.nasa.gov About 1.5 weeks ago, I sowed some columbine and primula seeds in an APS flat. I kept everything sterile (I think) and used sterile germinating mix. I kept them at 60-65 degrees, like the packet said, and well-watered. Some of the seeds look like they're sending out a little root, but some of them are covered with fuzz. Is this some type of fungus or is it normal? I also sowed impatiens and violas which have come up well (~90% germination for the impatiens and 50% for the violas so far, but I think there will be many more). I desperately want to start columbines from seed. I hope they make it! Thanks, Melissa From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk Fri Feb 18 16:59:44 EST 1994 Article: 26519 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk From: mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Starting pansies for fall bloom Date: 11 Feb 1994 19:43:09 GMT Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA Lines: 13 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jgn4d$jse@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: venus.larc.nasa.gov I noticed last fall that pansies bloomed well into the fall here (Tidewater, Va, zone 7 or 8, depending on what chart you look at) and want to start some from seed for my windowboxes this fall. What is the right time to start them from seed to set out after impatiens and begonias have given up for the summer? Thanks, Melissa From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!jobone!opeo!pmsrs4.pms.ford.com!wojcik Fri Feb 18 16:59:45 EST 1994 Article: 26520 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!jobone!opeo!pmsrs4.pms.ford.com!wojcik From: wojcik@pmsrs4.pms.ford.com (wojcik) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gesneriads &c. Date: 11 Feb 1994 20:11:22 GMT Organization: Ford Motor Company -- standard disclaimers apply Lines: 38 Message-ID: <2jgopaINN7vs@ope001.iao.ford.com> References: <2j8d4o$n4q@panix.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pmsrs4.pms.ford.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Harvey Fishman (fishman@panix.com) wrote: : Time for my yearly question - does anyone know of a newsgroup or mailing : list for Gloxinias (Sinningia Speciosa) and/or other Gesneriads? I note : that there is now a mailing list for cacti and other succulents; I am : hoping that Gesneriads are no longer out in the cold (and they is tropical : plants, so they do NOT like that kind of weather. ;-)) Thanks. : Harvey : -- : ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- : Harvey Fishman | There is no greater failure than : fishman@panix.com | that of making an enemy. : 718-258-7276 | I'm not aware of a separate newgroups for gesneriads. However, if you are interested in learning more about gesneriads (which includes the African Violet but contains thousands of different species) I stronly suggest membership in the American Gloxinia and Gesneriad Society. Due are $20 a year and include six issues of The Gloxinian. The AGGS also has a seed fund for members that contains rare (and common) gesneriads found no where else. Information can be obtained from Jimmy Dates, c/o The Horticultural Society of New York, 128 West. 58th St., New York, NY 10019. There are a number of commercial growers of gesneriads and if anyone is interested, I can supply a list. BTW, I'm not a commercial grower, but I am an officer in AGGS and also enjoy hybridizing Sinningias. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Al Wojcik FoMoCo., Dearborn MI "A lickey boom-boom down" Zone 5 - Snow ============================================================================ Internet: wojcik@pmsrs4.pms.ford.com Work Phone: (313) 594-1999 : From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.his.com!Clone!UUCP Fri Feb 18 16:59:46 EST 1994 Article: 26521 of rec.gardens From: andy.vonkaenel@his.com (Andy vonKaenel) Sender: UUCP@Clone.his.com Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.his.com!Clone!UUCP Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Message-ID: <761012895.AA07351@Clone.his.com> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 1994 16:16:12 Lines: 21 I had a similar problem due to "nice" people in my neighborhood who like to feed all the stray cats in the area. Those same cats decided to use my yard as their litter box, needless to say the garden got pretty torn up! I solved my problem with the help of the local humane society. For a $50.00 deposit they gave me a trap for the cats. When I caught one, I called the humane society, they took the cat away. When all the cats were gone, I returned the trap and got my $50.00 back. I figure if someone owned the cats the first place they would look was the local humane society shelter, if someone didn't own the cats they would be put up for adoption, if no one wanted them they would be destroyed. I didn't have to do anything expensive, dangerous or illegal. Something to think about.... Andy von Kaenel From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf Fri Feb 18 16:59:46 EST 1994 Article: 26522 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. References: <1994Feb10.145658.15146@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> <1994Feb10.151403.15434@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 1994 18:31:29 GMT Lines: 42 >> > }>|> >I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. ...wonderful witty stuff deleted... >Lets try this again . If there is anyone interested in the >formation of this group who has experience with writing RFD's >pleases let me know. If not, I will post an RFD tomorrow. >We need to decide on a name and charter. Also, if the group >should be moderated or not. >Both rec.apiary and rec.beekeeping have been suggested as >potential group names. > >cheers >----------------------------------------------------------------- > \\___// > | | Bryan Miller > |_____| Embedded Software Engineer > || o || Control Systems Software > || \\|| Powertrain Electronics Department > \\ Ford Motor Company > o TEL : 313.84.54248 > // FAX : 313.32.36743 > O EMAIL : millerb@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com > > > <<< I don't speak for Ford, nor they for me... >>> Brian and any other beekeepers out there, I wrote an rfd and its on its way: the proposed name is : sci.agriculture.beekeeping. Other names that have been suggested are: sci.agriculture.bees, and rec.husbandry.bee-culture. Rec.crafts.beekeeping was voted against on the bee-l listserve. Group-advice has been consulting with us and this is how we have arrived at these names for the group. Hang on, the rfd should be coming along sometime soon. Adam -- =============================================================================== Adam Finkelstein VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801 703-433-1006 (V) 703-434-5607 (Fax) 703-564-4394 (Pager) adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu |Bees To Please| ================================================================================ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Fri Feb 18 16:59:47 EST 1994 Article: 26523 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Composting From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4806.2552.0N41F6B5@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 94 07:39:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 97 Renee wrote, RL> I have a couple of questions for you. I have been reading your > messages about compost on the gardens list, I think you or > someone forwarded them, are they from another list? I write my own replies, but do have a database of thousands of questions and answers from playing Mr Compost~~~ and Jim the Compost Man~~~ on a number of networks. RL> I am a novice, actually I haven't yet started my pile. Are thre > any really good books that you would recomend on how to get > started? For the beginner composter, I recommend getting John Roulac's "Backyard Composting" from Harmonious Technologies for $8.95 PP 800-345-0096. Mary Appelhof's "Worms Eat My Garbage" is the best book for home vermicomposting. It is $10.45 PP from Flower Press, 10322 Shaver Rd, Kalamazoo MI 49002. 616-327-0108. Also, are those plastic bins any good, do they really > work? There's one at my local Hechingers for about 60 bucks, > however, it doesnt turn, you have to turn it yourself with a > pitchfork or something. What are the advantages and > disadvantages of these closed bins? I personally use both open air bins and enclosed plastic bins, each has their strong and weak points. Some enclosed bins are anaerobic, meaning without any air ventilation at all. Vents on the side are not as necessary as having an aeration base, of which the Green Genie has the best aeration base I have tried thus far. The Keep it Simple approach has its merits, and the anaerobic composting process has its place. Enclosed bins are not true anaerobic systems, however, and are better called "low oxygen" processes. True anaerobic systems are totally air tight, often involve water tanks, and produce methane. I have substantial experience with methane systems, but only on the commercial scale. I don't recommend methane systems for back yard use. The enclosed bins take on several forms. They all tend to work best for passive composting, much better than open air bins. Open air bins require more volume, handling, moisture, and management. Closed bins are more forgiving. They tend to be smaller, hence less capacity. Enclosed bins work for table scraps better than open air designs. The chief advantage of enclosed bins is that they hold moisture, as field experience has shown that the number one limiting factor in home composting is underwatering. The piles are too dry in open air designs. I have worked with nearly all the enclosed bins at one demonstration site or another. Insulated ones are better than thin wall systems. The better ones have openings at the base, not the sides. There should be lids on the enclosed bins, but lids that allow for ventilation, like a barbeque. A lid, however, keeps rainfall out, which is a problem. The "Earth Machine" is getting some favorable reviews. Rubbermaid is popular, as is the Soil Saver which has some lid and warping problems. I prefer round designs to square or rectangular. Corners tend to cool down and the compost can stick more easily. Toro has an impressive, sturdy bin. Ringer has an enclosed bin, but it seems overpriced to me. The Green Cone is a glorified privy, with the base buried in the ground. I am not too impressed with it. The problem with all the enclosed bins is that they are small, 7 to 14 cubic feet. The open air bins are usually larger, 14 to 36 cubic feet. For the average yard with two bags of grass per week, people will find that they need two, or even three passive bins to keep up. They either give up or go to the active composting process and switch to open air bins, which are less expensive and handle more material. For the small lot, lots of table scraps, and the passive layer-type of person, enclosed plastic bins with lids are the best thing going. RL> If these are too many questions, or just questions you are > probably tired of asking, a good book would be my first need. > Thanks. Renee in Fairfax where we are getting another winter > storm - no snow just ice and a horrific rush hour! I don't get tired of questions as I truly want to promote home and commercial composting. This is and has been my profession since 1975, operating composting systems, designing them, and consulting. There is hardly any area of the field that I have not enjoyed some experience. But I have made it a policy to post many private e-mail notes back on the public boards so that others can benefit from the questions. I try to do it without using the poster's name since they sent the question privately. Mr Compost~~~ Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 10th - Press Z to achieve Zen consciousness or Q to quit From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!bshoop Fri Feb 18 16:59:48 EST 1994 Article: 26524 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!bshoop From: bshoop@shrsys.hslc.org Subject: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advice needed Message-ID: <11FEB94.22171881@shrsys.hslc.org> Sender: news@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER Date: Sat, 12 Feb 1994 03:17:18 GMT Lines: 20 I am planning on putting in a large rose bed, eventually 30ft by 4 ft. My problem is that the soil has about 4 inches of poor topsoil and the rest is very heavy clay. I planted one bush last year, dug a large hole, filled it with water.....several days later....got a bucket and bailed out the hole... get the picture. I have decided that I am going to get a backhoe and just dig up the entire bed three feet deep and put 6 inches of gravel at the bottom for drainage to the storm sewer. My QUESTION is this (finally)... Should I just replace all that clay with topsoil (very expensive) or is there a way to enrich/improve the clay soil so that it will be suitable for roses and other perennials? I have a little experience with composting, but normally in the garden and only 8 inches deep. What type of compost strategy will work with two 1/2 feet of clay soil? Any advice, or solutions would be greatly appreciated!!!!! - Brian Shoop bshoop@hslc.org P.S. I am in Central PA, zone 5. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!news.cs.indiana.edu!lynx.unm.edu!dns1.NMSU.Edu!bubba!rjpark Fri Feb 18 16:59:49 EST 1994 Article: 26525 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!news.cs.indiana.edu!lynx.unm.edu!dns1.NMSU.Edu!bubba!rjpark From: rjpark@bubba (Richard J. Park) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: bell peppers Date: 11 Feb 1994 22:05:28 GMT Organization: New Mexico State University Lines: 1 Message-ID: <2jgvf8INNp7o@dns1.NMSU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: 155.148.9.37 X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!hub.cs.jmu.edu!newsusr Fri Feb 18 16:59:50 EST 1994 Article: 26526 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!hub.cs.jmu.edu!newsusr From: FAC_SCROSS@vax1.acs.jmu.edu (Sam Cross) Subject: Re: Clay Soil Message-ID: Sender: newsusr@hub.cs.jmu.edu (USENET News System) Organization: James Madison University Date: Fri, 11 Feb 1994 22:34:02 GMT X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS v1.25 Lines: 12 At the risk of sounding like someone who works for Rodale Press, the answer is organic material. Hay, newspaper, compost, manure, anything organic. I have clay soil, and after 15 years, it refuses to make clods. My tiller will probably develop heart disease because of lack of exercise. Nothing is instant. I have mulched a la Ruth Stout, I have bought manure, gypsum, composted, and double dug. It pays off in the long run. Invest more in the soil than the plants, and someday the plants will take care of themselves. Sam Cross James Madison University "The purpose of gardening is soil improvement, not produce or flowers." From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.eecs.uic.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Fri Feb 18 16:59:51 EST 1994 Article: 26527 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.eecs.uic.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, ADN Computer Center Date: Fri, 11 Feb 1994 15:37:42 CST From: Message-ID: <94042.153742U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: dessicants Distribution: world References: <2jbng4$es5@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> Lines: 21 There was, some time ago, an interest in finding a source for a dessicant to use with seeds. I didn't see whether there was a response, I am supposed to be writing my dissertation, so here is a source. From p. 96 of Astronomy, under "New Products" >Moisture Muncher for Optics< Moisture Muncher, a new drying agent, features blue crystals that gradually turn pink as they absorb moisture around stored optics [it is an astronomy mag- azine after all, I suspect that this previously unknown behavior results from something like the CaSuO4 we have in lab]. The crystals can be reactivated by baking in a household oven on low heat. The drying agent is sold in a three- pack of one-ounce packets. Pioneer Research, Inc., 216 Haddon Avenue, Westmont, NJ 08108 (800)257-7742. $4.99. That, less my comments is the ad. I know no more about it than that. I hope that this is of use. Hans Goeckner goeckner@uicws.phy.uic.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Fri Feb 18 16:59:51 EST 1994 Article: 26528 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Composting Sod? From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4815.2552.0N41F6C5@gcbb.granite.mn.org> References: <2j917m$1f0@news.bu.edu> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 94 10:53:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 62 Subject: Re: Composting Sod? Sherry writes: B>"Undigested lumps" -- that reminds me... B>Jim! Any tips on dealing with chunks of sod from >lawn-turned-into-flower-beds? Oh my Sod! The biggest problem with sod is that it is mostly mineral soil, not organic matter. Clay, silt, loam, and sand etc. do not decompose. Minerals take up space, add weight, are nearly useless as bacterial inoculants, and will snuff out a composting fire as surely as putting soil on a campfire. These and other reasons why I take particular exception to the myth recommending "add soil" to the compost pile. Something like "add cardboard to cereal", mmmm goood!! Adding soil to an active composting pile is a sure way to slow the decomposition process and discourage the budding bio-convert. In large composting sites, sod represents a small fraction of the total volume of the incoming material so it blends in. These facilities have mixers and screeners, not to mention pulverizers that are not available to the home composter. My number one suggestion is to take it to the municipal composting site. Not all environmental solutions *have* to be householder based. I am a big believer in well run centralized composting facilities, much like central wastewater treatment is many more times environmentally appropriate than individual septic systems. On the home scale, try some of these tricks I have picked up over the years. First try to remove the soil from the sod. Pressure washing over grass is effective until nothing but sod and roots are left. This way you separate the mineral from the organic. Secondly chop the sod into little bits. Use a spade or other trenching tool. A good machete~ is an excellent tool. Another technique is to place the sod upside down as a garden path or a mulch around trees and shrubs. The old sod will yellow and decompose, gradually blending into the soil. Other creative techniques are to put sod roofs on garden sheds, birdhouse, dog houses, etc. You can just till it into the soil as well, using multiple passes with the tiller. I knew one fellow who grew sod on the roof of his Buick. You could bring the sod indoors and start an aviary with an earthen floor. Maybe if you live in the great white north you can put it in the back of the trunk or pick-up truck for snow traction. Then when you see a "fill dirt wanted" site in the spring, dump it off. Hopes this helps. Remember that sod is dos spelled backwards. (!) Mr Compost~~~ Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 10th - Society for the prevention of cruelty to taglines From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Fri Feb 18 16:59:52 EST 1994 Article: 26529 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Composting Newspaper? From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4832.2552.0N41F6C6@gcbb.granite.mn.org> References: <2j9lhm$auj@apollo.it.luc.edu> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 94 14:05:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 80 Subject: Re: Composting Newspaper? J>Jim McNelly wrote: J>: Tissues are OK for the home pile as long as they are table scraps etc >: from the kitchen. I would be concerned about tissues from the bathroom. Patty responded with: J>O.K. Jim! I have been meaning to ask this question! J>I blow my nose on a white, generic, recycled tissue (in the bathroom, >but I am not suffering from a dread disease; does that matter?). >Should I: J>Flush it down the toilet (I assume our suburban Chicago sewage is >treated in an environmentally sane manner)? I can't speak to the specific sludge management plan in your part of the city, but I believe that most of Chicago's sludge is now being managed beneficially. J>Throw it on the compost pile? I won't tell if you don't. J>Throw it in the garbage (we pay by the can to have it removed)? Chicago has yet to have a mixed waste or commercial composting site for anything other than yard trimmings, so it will end up at a burner or a landfill. I think well designed burners are better than landfills. Contrary to popular mythology which says that waste *should* decompose in landfills to be *good*, organic matter which decomposes should be kept *out* of landfills. Organics produce explosive methane, which is also from 20 to 40 times the greenhouse gas as CO2. Decomposed organics produce leachate, which is the bad stuff that leaks into water systems. When they decompose, they shrink which causes the clay cap to settle which causes fractures which lets in rainwater which causes more leachate. The good stuff to put in landfills is the stable material like plastics, rock, debris and other materials that do not decompose. J>Burn it in the fireplace during our ritual weekend family gathering? AAARRRaaagghhhhh! The old indoor burn barrel trick, eh? No. Burning household refuse results in low temperature combustion of plastics which puts nasty nasty pollutants into the atmosphere. Your single tissue might not mean the end of the world as we know it, but once started, then it is scrap paper, then paper with plastic laminates, then boxes with plastic tape, then heck, why not burn everything? I like the saying, "God recycles, the Devil burns." J>Actually (don't read this if you are eating lunch) I save tissue, >dry it out by letting it sit in the bathroom where I left it, then >use it to wipe out hair from the bottom of the shower, then throw >it in the garbage. Cool. Sounds like my kind of crazy lady! J>Patty, feeling a bit nauseaus myself.... Heck, the bioconversion process has no limits. I hope to be composted when I die, which sure beats being pumped full of formaldehyde and other goofy chemicals or left in a non-decomposing box or decomposed slowly as mismanaged meat. A true bio-convert is always looking to improve soil fertility and doesn't let ancient Egyptian death ritual cults or anti-earth taboos get in the way of doing what is right. Teach your kids that dirt is good, soil is alive, and that food comes from dead things, not the refrigerator. Reverend Compost~~~ (pulpit mode off) Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 10th - Twelve of one and six dozen of another. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Fri Feb 18 16:59:53 EST 1994 Article: 26530 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advice needed Date: 12 Feb 1994 01:44:49 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 24 Message-ID: <2jhcah$eh8@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <11FEB94.22171881@shrsys.hslc.org> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: nextsun.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, bshoop@shrsys.hslc.org () says: >My QUESTION is this (finally)... Should I just replace all that clay with >topsoil (very expensive) or is there a way to enrich/improve the clay soil >so that it will be suitable for roses and other perennials? I have a little >experience with composting, but normally in the garden and only 8 inches deep. >What type of compost strategy will work with two 1/2 feet of clay soil? And the answer is...Peat Moss--lots of peat moss, good old fashioned bales of sphagnum peat. THEN add compost, if you have it, along with a goodly amount of bone meal. A bed the size you have in mind could use at least a half dozen bales of sphagnum worked into the clay along with manure, compost, mulched leaves and bone meal--the more organic material the better. This is a pricey solution, but so is bringing in a backhoe, unless you know how to operate it yourself. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * "Sleeplessness is like metaphysics. A-B College * Be there." Philippi, WV * * ----Charles Simic---- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af348 Fri Feb 18 16:59:54 EST 1994 Article: 26531 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af348 From: af348@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Leslie Firth) Subject: Re: Morningglory from seed? Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: af348@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Leslie Firth) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <2jge5n$62p@apollo.it.luc.edu> Date: Sat, 12 Feb 1994 01:57:50 GMT Lines: 18 [B In a previous article, rolson@orion.it.luc.edu (Rick T. Olson) says: >I have heard that morning glory does not transplant well and should be >started from seed directly in the garden. Is this true? Thanks. >--Rick > >Last year, I planted morning glory in peat pots, placed them in a south-facing window about six weeks before "end-of-frost" date (which is May 25th here in Ottawa). They germinated and grew into very hardy plants. They did slow down a bit when I transplanted them, but once the weather really warmed up, they took off. The problem with waiting and starting from seed outdoors is that our growing season is quite short. I didn't want to wait 'till fall to enjoy the flowers! I'd say give it a try! What have you got to lose! -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!wetware!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!ns!news Fri Feb 18 16:59:55 EST 1994 Article: 26532 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!wetware!iggy.GW.Vitalink.COM!ns!news From: dressse@ferrari.network.com (Steve Dressse) Subject: Re: Bottom heat for Seedlings Message-ID: <1994Feb11.235821.819@ns.network.com> Sender: news@ns.network.com Nntp-Posting-Host: ferrari Organization: Network Systems Corporation References: <2jg273$mc8@news.iastate.edu> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 94 23:58:21 GMT Lines: 20 In article <2jg273$mc8@news.iastate.edu> tnez3@isuvax.iastate.edu writes: >In article , sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes: >>It's really too cold here at nights, and I'd like to get a jump on the season >>with my tomatoes and peppers, and it might be a good source of "bottom heat". >>On the other hand, if I'm not careful, I might fry their butts! >> >>--Kim Fisher > >I can't vouch for your dehydrator (maybe you could stick a thermometer >in there to check first?) If the temps are low enough, it seems like >a good idea. I use an athletic heating pad purchased at K-mart set under >my seedlings, usually on low or medium heat . > >April My boss uses their food dehydrator to provide 'bottom heat' for seed starting. He said the only problem is the soil drying out quickly. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!ames!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!imagen!jjwt Fri Feb 18 16:59:56 EST 1994 Article: 26533 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!ames!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!imagen!jjwt From: jjwt@imagen.com (Julia Tien) Subject: propagating shrubs from a cutting Message-ID: <1994Feb12.023533.26830@aqm.com> Sender: usenet@aqm.com Nntp-Posting-Host: guppy Organization: imagen Distribution: usa Date: Sat, 12 Feb 1994 02:35:33 GMT Expires: Friday, 18 Feb 1994 00:00:00 PST Lines: 17 I have a shrub that I would like to try propagating from a cutting, as I don't know what variety it is (though I do have the Chinese name for it--is there a Chinese -> Latin botanical name cross-reference anywhere?). It is a woody shrub--what is the best time of year to try rooting a cutting? Should it be dormant? Just budding or leafing out? In full foliage? Does anyone have any tips to share? Should I try a rooting powder? Please e-mail replies to jjwt@sclara.qms.com. (If this is in one of the FAQs, I'd appreciate a pointer to which one...) Thank you. Julia From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!acsu.buffalo.edu!rmr Fri Feb 18 16:59:57 EST 1994 Article: 26534 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!nott!torn!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!acsu.buffalo.edu!rmr From: rmr@acsu.buffalo.edu (Richard M. Romanowski) Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Message-ID: Sender: nntp@acsu.buffalo.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: autarch-14.acsu.buffalo.edu Organization: UB References: <9402052242595.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> <1994Feb8.231743.26570@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu> <2jbdpm$cen@convex.convex.com> Date: Sat, 12 Feb 1994 03:24:54 GMT Lines: 37 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:71555 alt.config:24474 rec.gardens:26534 misc.rural:7758 (The honey bunny) writes: >In article <1994Feb8.231743.26570@mnemosyne.cs.du.edu>, >MAC wrote: >}In article , >}Steve Crumley wrote: >}>In article <9402052242595.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com>, ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) writes: >}>|> >I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. >}>|> >}>I just started keeping bees and would love get in touch with other beekeepers! >} >}They're all busy!!@! >} >}MAC - ba dum dum tisssss >I'll bet it will be one honey of a newsgroup... >-- > Tony J. Podrasky Contrary to commercials, No self-respecting > San Diego , Ca Cowboy or Off-roader would be caught *dead* > tonyp@convex.com driving a non U.S. made pick-up truck. >QSL? QRU? QRZ? QLZ? QFA? It's either American or walk. Note that Terry Pratchett mucks about with bees. Note that Terry Pratchett has an entire newsgroup of fans. Feel the dramatic tension building... LVX Rick (Who thinks there ought to be a bee-keeping newsgroup: sci.bees.mucking.about or other Pratchettesque title.) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!twg.com!eco.twg.com!psinntp!megatest!sfisher Fri Feb 18 16:59:58 EST 1994 Article: 26536 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!paladin.american.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!twg.com!eco.twg.com!psinntp!megatest!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <2ijj90$2qd@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 1994 16:35:51 GMT Lines: 26 >I've had trouble with cats in freshly-prepared beds -- once the veggies >come up, and fill in, it's not such a problem, but the freshly-turned >and planted areas seem to attract them especially. They seem to >think I do all that spade-work just to give them a pleasant >excretorical experience. > >I put short posts at the corners, and a few betwixt, and make a >spider-web formation of string. About cat-chest high. They can't get >over it, or under it. Doesn't take a really tight mesh. By the time >things start to grow, and the string gets in the way of weeding or >picking, the cats seem to have lost interest in the bed, and the >string can come off. I like it because it only takes a few minutes >to set up, and it's a completely harmless and passive deterrent. This sounds like a good idea. For the record, my cat problem consists of my own two cats, who lounge around my back yard, but rarely go "abroad" as they are getting too old and lazy to jump the fence. Something I like to do in a freshly prepared bed (i.e. cat-target) is to stick in unused tomato cages and bamboo support poles, at varying angles. The worst of my two offenders will generally leave these beds alone, and also will not dig in a bed where there are plants. (thank goodness) The beds don't look nice and neat, but it's better than the alternative. --Kim Fisher From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!aixssc.uk.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!sernews!news Fri Feb 18 16:59:59 EST 1994 Article: 26537 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!aixssc.uk.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!sernews!news From: SJGALLA@STEVEG.RALEIGH.IBM.COM Subject: Jackson Perkins Begonias? Sender: news@sernews.raleigh.ibm.com Message-ID: Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 18:11:29 GMT Lines: 8 Reply-To: SGALLAGHER@RTP.VNET.IBM.COM Nntp-Posting-Host: steveg.raleigh.ibm.com Organization: LAN Interconnect Product group, RTP NC X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.00 I just got the newest Jackson and Perkins (?) catalogue, and they're offering "shade-loving begonias" for something like 10 for $25. I have a shady spot on the side of the house that could use some color, and these sound like just the ticket. Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with J&P's begonias? And are there any things I should know in terms of care and feeding? ( just what I need, 10 more mouths to feed! ) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paperboy.amoco.com!apctrc!msc.edu!mr.net!bardeen.physics.csbsju.edu!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Fri Feb 18 16:59:59 EST 1994 Article: 26538 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paperboy.amoco.com!apctrc!msc.edu!mr.net!bardeen.physics.csbsju.edu!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4859.2552.0N41F729@gcbb.granite.mn.org> References: Date: Fri, 11 Feb 94 07:32:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 40 Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey On the subject of bad taste: One thing I often see in gardens and lawns, is wasting resources. Over watering lawns to the point that water runs down the curb *really* bothers me. Automatic sprinklers that run mindlessly whether it is sunny or raining drive me crazy. People draining their oil on the soil or down the gutter/sewer is one of the worst things a person can do environmentally at home. Fat bags of grass clippings at the curb..... Well, you know what I think about that! Unless they are going to a municipal composting site. People asking at the garden center how to get rid of their worms. AAARRRAAHhhhhh!!!!! Seeing contractors hauling away topsoil and selling fill dirt under the same name is criminal, in my opinion. And the builders! WHy to they believe that an un-landscaped lawn is their private demolition site? The concrete companies regularly dump their "extra" in the corner. Bricks, debris, concrete blocks are often put in a hole on site and covered. Years later John and Jane Q Public wonder why things won't grow there. That's enough for now, but I could think of more. Trees too close to the foundation, lousy drainage also come to mind. Boy am I glad I don't do retail soil work any more! Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 11th - IF STONE(ROTATION) > 1 THEN MOSS(PROPAGATION) = 0 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paperboy.amoco.com!apctrc!msc.edu!mr.net!bardeen.physics.csbsju.edu!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Fri Feb 18 17:00:01 EST 1994 Article: 26539 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Vermiposting From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!paperboy.amoco.com!apctrc!msc.edu!mr.net!bardeen.physics.csbsju.edu!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Message-ID: <36.4860.2552.0N41F72A@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 94 07:32:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Info Center 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis Lines: 38 Subject: Re: Vermiposting S>In article <2i9de1$kl0@nexus.uiowa.edu> donath@herky.cs.uiowa.edu (Matt >Donath) >writes: >> >>The redworm egg casings are yellowish in color and slightly oval. They >>look very much like earthworm egg casings, only smaller. They >>are supposed to contain about 20 eggs inside. Breaking the casings >>open results in goop. S>Whhhoooogggghhhh. Remind me not to read these vermipostings at lunchtime! S>--Kim "I really thought I wasn't squeamish until now" Fisher Actually the original poster was mixing terminology. The "castings" are worm excrement, but not a true manure, since worms devour as a means of locomotion as well as digestion. Worm "capsules" or "cocoons" to use the accurate scientific term, contain earthworm eggs, which there have been rare cases of up to twenty worms inside the cocoons. The actual average is about 3.5 per cocoon. There is really no such thing as a worm "casing". The "goo" that was described is like a chicken egg before the chick is developed. Once the worm embryo is developed, around three weeks in proper moisture and temperature, the cocoon turns pink and little worms can be squeezed out. I think they are darling little creatures. Kids love seeing the baby worms being born in the classes I teach on household ecology. Mr Compost~~~ Jim McNelly~~~ Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org --- * February 11th - What profit to gain the world and lose your soil? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!usenet.ufl.edu!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!news.scri.fsu.edu!scri.fsu.edu!burgess Fri Feb 18 17:00:01 EST 1994 Article: 26540 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!usenet.ufl.edu!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!news.scri.fsu.edu!scri.fsu.edu!burgess From: burgess@scri.fsu.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: help-findhorn garden Date: 11 Feb 1994 20:28:34 GMT Organization: Supercomputer Computations Research Institute Lines: 9 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jgppi$1j2@news.scri.fsu.edu> Reply-To: burgess@scri.fsu.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: vsbill.scri.fsu.edu Hello. My wife just read a book entitled "The Findhorn Garden", by the Findhorn Community, about (you guessed it) the Findhorn Garden in Scotland. She's extremely interested in the subject and I can't locate any other books on it. Does anyone out there know of any, or of any magazine articles, or have any personal anecdotes about the place? Anybody been there? Thanking you in advance, Bill From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!news.ingr.com!ingr!b17news!penguin.b17a.ingr.com!tswacast Fri Feb 18 17:00:02 EST 1994 Article: 26541 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!news.ingr.com!ingr!b17news!penguin.b17a.ingr.com!tswacast From: tswacast@penguin.b17a.ingr.com (Tom Wacaster) Subject: Apple Tree Help? Message-ID: <1994Feb10.120637.1072@b17news.b17a.ingr.com> Sender: usenet@b17news.b17a.ingr.com (USENET) Reply-To: tswacast@ingr.com Organization: Intergraph Corp. Date: Thu, 10 Feb 1994 12:06:37 GMT Lines: 18 I have recently purchased a house that comes complete with its own apple tree. I'm not certain what type of apple tree it is. I'm wondering if anyone out there has any general tips that I can use to care for the tree to get the best yield. Last year I tried the patented Tom Wacaster 'Let Nature Run Its Course' method, and was very disappointed with the results. The apples were small and not at all attractive. Some even appeared to be rotting on the branches. The tree produced SEVERAL apples. So many that the lower branches nearly touched the ground. I apologize if this is not the proper news group to post this to or if there is a FAQ that addresses these questions. I am new to the group and to the garden scene. This is the first piece of land that I have been able to call my own. (OK, about 5% my own 95% the mortgage company's) Thanks in advance for any help, Tom Wacaster tswacast@ingr.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!cns!WASHTE!troy Fri Feb 18 17:00:04 EST 1994 Article: 26542 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!cns!WASHTE!troy From: troy@cscns.com (Troy Cobb) Subject: Software tools for gardens Message-ID: Summary: looking for software tools for gardening Keywords: software, gardens, layout, expert system Lines: 16 Sender: news@cscns.com (News) Nntp-Posting-Host: 165.212.9.114 Organization: Solutions Consulting X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] Date: Wed, 9 Feb 1994 19:47:31 GMT Hello fellow gardeners! I am interested in software products (commercial and shareware) available for gardening. The type of capabilities I am interested in are: layout and design large databases of plants/growing times, etc. prefer products "smart" about organic gardening practices - namely companion planting/raised beds Any input would be appreciated. Email me and I will provide a synopsis of responses on this newsgroup if there is interest. Thanks in advance! - Troy troy@cscns.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!think.com!spdcc!jfwhome!jfwhome!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:00:05 EST 1994 Article: 26543 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!think.com!spdcc!jfwhome!jfwhome!not-for-mail From: babs@jfwhome.funhouse.com (Babs Woods) Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house,rec.gardens Subject: greenhouses?? Date: 12 Feb 1994 01:34:19 -0500 Organization: Our Lady of Perpetual Mirth (Pacifica) Lines: 32 Message-ID: <2jht9b$b92@jfwhome.funhouse.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: jfwnew.funhouse.com Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu misc.consumers.house:47539 rec.gardens:26543 I would like to build or have built a greenhouse off our current porch. So far it looks like the footprint could be as large as about 15X20ft with something like a 10ft ceiling (although this hasn't been worked out for certain). All the ceilings in the house are 7ft high, so this might be made to conform pretty much to that set of dimensions. Since I live in Central Mass, I'd like people's recommendations on places that are local to me, on what kind of flooring or foundations, what kind of glass wall is cheapest while still being very good, best insulating greenhouse glass, etc.... I'd like to have this completed within the next two years and would like info on anything we should or shouldn't do ourselves on such a project. This year is heating system year, so next year we might have some money over to build our own greenhouse, if we find it's possible to do most of it ourselves. We're planning on making the current porch into a real room and the greenhouse will be an extension off of the porch. Since that side of the house faces south we're in luck. Architecturally it's our only choice. Many thanks, -babs -- "Excuse me, while I dance a little jig of despair." - hadley@ics.uci.edu (Ted Hadley) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!an093 Fri Feb 18 17:00:05 EST 1994 Article: 26544 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!an093 From: an093@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Joan Jantz Lee) Subject: Re: Apple Tree Help? Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: an093@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Joan Jantz Lee) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <1994Feb10.120637.1072@b17news.b17a.ingr.com> Date: Sat, 12 Feb 1994 15:06:24 GMT Lines: 15 In a previous article, tswacast@penguin.b17a.ingr.com (Tom Wacaster) says: >I have recently purchased a house that comes complete with its own apple >tree. I can pass on the advice a tree grower passed on to us. He said to trim the tree way back in the fall and to give it a jolt in the spring with fertilizer. He could well be correct because it was the first year our 7 yr old tree bothered to provide us with fruit. Good luck -- Joan Jantz-Lee an093@freenet.carleton.ca From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!destroyer!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ua024 Fri Feb 18 17:00:06 EST 1994 Article: 26545 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!destroyer!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ua024 From: ua024@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Diane Whitehead) Subject: SF Bay area Horticultural newsletter Message-ID: Sender: news@suncad.camosun.bc.ca (USENET News System) Organization: Camosun College, Victoria, B.C. Date: Sat, 12 Feb 1994 16:01:46 GMT Lines: 71 Reply to:SAOUC@UCCMVSA.BITNET References: Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada The following is the 'seed' idea of a project intended to unify gardeners and horticultural activity in the San Francisco Bay Area. If you know of someone else who would be interested in this information, please forward it. Sean A. O'Hara, Oakland, CA SAOUC@UCCMVSA.BITNET -------------------------------------------------------------------- Exploring Horticulture with a Regional S.F. Bay Area Focus Of late, I've been interested in exploring a more regional focus to horticulture here in the San Francisco Bay Area. We have many Horticultural Societies and organizations, interesting public gardens, and a wealth of good nurseries locally. Unfortunately, much of the information concerning this activity is not generally available. The 9 Bay Area counties (Alameda, Contra Costa Marin, Napa, San Francisco, San Mateo, Santa Clara, Santa Cruz, & Sonoma), and maybe some others like Monterey, Solano & Yolo counties (suggestions?), comprise a unique growing area where there are both advantages and disadvantages, many not sufficiently addressed in garden literature based upon experience in other parts of the world. Many of the local groups attempt to address these concerns, but each is often limited by its specific focus, few being general in their approach. Some of those that are often inadvertantly cater to plant experts whose wants and needs are very different from those of the casual or novice gardener. Also, being generally independent from each other, many of these separate horticultural groups operate in isolation from each other, and it is difficult to know what is 'going on' unless you become a member of quite a number of societies, or scour the newspapers and diverse bulletin boards around town for various notices. It is very common to find out information about an event 'after the fact', which is not particularly useful to most people. I'm personally toying with the concept of a regional horticultural newletter of sorts, which would include information and articles of specific interest to local gardeners and plant enthusiasts. Being independent in its affiliation, it could open its 'calendar' to any and all societies or plant clubs who were interested in advertizing there. Large and small horticultural 'events' could be publicized. Nurseries could use its pages to promote plant material they feel is especially appropriate to our climate and deserving of better exposure. Garden experiences of both novices and professionals would also make interesting reading. Garden & Landscape professionals could publish their work, advertize their services, etc., etc. Do any of you have responses to this idea? Would you be interested in receiving an E-MAIL version of such a publication? Would you be interested in contributing? (or know someone who would?) Any ideas, suggestions or criticizms would be greatly appreciated. If you'd like to be on a E-MAIL list for updates on the progress of this project, please let me know. Many thanks for your time and consideration! Hortulus Aptus Hortulus='garden', Aptus='suited to its purpose' Sean A. O'Hara SAOUC@UCCMVSA.BITNET 710 Jean Street member Calif. Horticultural Society Oakland, CA 94610-1459 urban gardener & designer - zone 9 -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!destroyer!jobone!ed8200!pt9222.ped.pto.ford.com!millerb Fri Feb 18 17:00:07 EST 1994 Article: 26546 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!destroyer!jobone!ed8200!pt9222.ped.pto.ford.com!millerb From: millerb@pt9222.ped.pto.ford.com (Bryan Miller) Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Message-ID: <1994Feb12.162839.20498@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Sender: news@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: pt9222.ped.pto.ford.com Organization: Ford Motor Co., Powertrain Electronics X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7] References: Date: Sat, 12 Feb 1994 16:28:39 GMT Lines: 57 Adam Finkelstein appears to have written on Fri, 11 Feb 1994 18:31:29 GMT: > >> > }>|> >I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. > > ...wonderful witty stuff deleted... > > >Lets try this again . If there is anyone interested in the > >formation of this group who has experience with writing RFD's > >pleases let me know. If not, I will post an RFD tomorrow. > >We need to decide on a name and charter. Also, if the group > >should be moderated or not. > >Both rec.apiary and rec.beekeeping have been suggested as > >potential group names. > > > >cheers [ my stuff deleted... ] > > Bryan and any other beekeepers out there, I wrote an rfd and its on its > way: > the proposed name is : sci.agriculture.beekeeping. Other names that have > been suggested are: sci.agriculture.bees, and rec.husbandry.bee-culture. > Rec.crafts.beekeeping was voted against on the bee-l listserve. > Group-advice has been consulting with us and this is how we have arrived > at these names for the group. > Hang on, the rfd should be coming along sometime soon. > Adam > -- > =============================================================================== > Adam Finkelstein VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801 > 703-433-1006 (V) 703-434-5607 (Fax) 703-564-4394 (Pager) > adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu |Bees To Please| > ================================================================================ It would appear from the discussion on BEE-L that most reader would prefer a non sci.* group to be formed. Yet in the proposal above we seem to be favoring the creation of a sci.* group over a rec.* group. Are there really any strong merits (from a net user point of view) one way or the other? I believe the constituency will be, in large part, the same. Perhaps it's more related to image? I think the idea of gating in BEE-L as Larry suggest is a good idea. Are there any merits to _not_ doing it? cheers ----------------------------------------------------------------- \\___// | | Bryan Miller |_____| Embedded Software Engineer || o || Control Systems Software || \\|| Powertrain Electronics Department \\ Ford Motor Company o TEL : 313.84.54248 // FAX : 313.32.36743 O EMAIL : millerb@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com <<< I don't speak for Ford, nor they for me... >>> From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!wsrcc.com!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:00:08 EST 1994 Article: 26547 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!wsrcc.com!not-for-mail From: alison@wsrcc.com (Alison Chaiken) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Pinecones are ruining the shape of my cypress! Date: 12 Feb 1994 09:20:52 -0800 Organization: Wolfgang S. Rupprecht Computer Consulting, Fremont, CA Lines: 13 Message-ID: <2jj35k$1eh@scoville.wsrcc.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: scoville.wsrcc.com I'm a beginning gardener with several large, healthy evergreen trees that I believe are Italian cypress. Their branches grew nearly vertically upward until last fall they grew lots of small "pine"-cones that are weighting many of the branches down, ruining the trees' nice silhouette. So my question is: should I cut these cones off to restore the tree's nice shape, or will the problem just take care of itself? -- Alison Chaiken alison@wsrcc.com (510) 422-7129 [daytime] or chaiken@cmsgee.llnl.gov Never attribute to malice that which can be explained by incompetence. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ddsw1!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:00:08 EST 1994 Article: 26548 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ddsw1!not-for-mail From: synic@MCS.COM (Kevin Conway) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: "not so mighty" Oak Date: 12 Feb 1994 12:52:46 -0600 Organization: Another MCSNet Subscriber, Chicago's First Public-Access Internet! Lines: 21 Message-ID: <2jj8hu$rhs@Mercury.mcs.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mercury.mcs.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2 (KSD)] My apologies in advance if this is an inappropriate newsgroup for my question. I don't ordinarily read this group, but I have a friend with a problem. I am literally regurgitating his question with no knowledge or understanding of its content. This friend is an ameteur landscaper. He has planted (when?) some native white oaks in the Chicago area which are dying. Specifically, they are becoming chlorotic (sp?)[turning yellow]. His question is, are there any new strains of white oak (quercus alba) that can tolerate alkaline/dry soil? He is particularly interested in any new strains or remedial action for the existing trees. Please respond by posting or via e-mail. Thanks for any assistance which you are able to provide. Kevin Conway synic@mcs.com -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!psuvax1!psuvm!vpn1 Fri Feb 18 17:00:10 EST 1994 Article: 26549 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!psuvax1!psuvm!vpn1 Organization: Penn State University Date: Sat, 12 Feb 1994 13:39:41 EST From: vince norris Message-ID: <94043.133941VPN1@psuvm.psu.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: A Non-composting Question Lines: 11 I had planned to dig up a large part of the lawn to create a garden, and I had planned to compost the sod. But I just read Jim McNelly's advice not to put sod in a compost pile. An alternative would be to cover the area with black plastic as soon as the four feet of snow disappears, to kill the grass, and then just spade it in. Spade the dead grass in, that is, not the plastic. My question is, will that work, and how long will the plastic have to remain on the grass to kill it? vince norris, penn state u. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!nic.hookup.net!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Fri Feb 18 17:00:10 EST 1994 Article: 26550 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!nic.hookup.net!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Starting pansies for fall bloom Message-ID: Date: Sat, 12 Feb 94 14:21:02 EST References: <2jgn4d$jse@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 23 mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) writes: > I noticed last fall that pansies bloomed well into the fall > here (Tidewater, Va, zone 7 or 8, depending on what chart you > look at) and want to start some from seed for my windowboxes > this fall. What is the right time to start them from seed > to set out after impatiens and begonias have given up for the > summer? > > Thanks, > Melissa > > I'm afraid I can't answer your question about starting them from seed, as I always get mine in flats from the nurseries. However, not only do pansies bloom in our climate well into the fall, but also during any of the milder days of winter and on through spring. It's only during the high heat of summer that we lose them. BTW, I garden in Cary, NC, zone 7b, right at the boundary between the Piedmont and the Coastal Plain. Might I suggest that you try calling one of your local nurseries and ask them when they start their seeds? Garry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!nic.hookup.net!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Fri Feb 18 17:00:11 EST 1994 Article: 26551 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!nic.hookup.net!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advice needed Message-ID: Date: Sat, 12 Feb 94 14:28:01 EST References: <11FEB94.22171881@shrsys.hslc.org> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 43 bshoop@shrsys.hslc.org writes: > I am planning on putting in a large rose bed, eventually 30ft by 4 ft. My > problem is that the soil has about 4 inches of poor topsoil and the rest is > very heavy clay. I planted one bush last year, dug a large hole, filled it > with water.....several days later....got a bucket and bailed out the hole... > get the picture. I have decided that I am going to get a backhoe and just > dig up the entire bed three feet deep and put 6 inches of gravel at the botto > for drainage to the storm sewer. > > My QUESTION is this (finally)... Should I just replace all that clay with > topsoil (very expensive) or is there a way to enrich/improve the clay soil > so that it will be suitable for roses and other perennials? I have a little > experience with composting, but normally in the garden and only 8 inches deep > What type of compost strategy will work with two 1/2 feet of clay soil? > > Any advice, or solutions would be greatly appreciated!!!!! > > - Brian Shoop > bshoop@hslc.org > > P.S. I am in Central PA, zone 5. I'd like to suggest that you consider the merits of a raised bed. That would improve your drainage a lot better than putting a layer of gravel in the soil, which really has no value. I wouldn't toss the clay, either, as clay is rich in minerals, just lacking in organics. What I do in my clay soil, a couple of zones south of you, is to break up the clay and mix it with equal parts of sand, compost and finely shredded pine bark mulch. Of course, you should test the soil to see if and how much lime you will need to add, as well as any nutrients that your soil is low on. Nitrogen deficits can be remedied with composted manure (the locals favor horse manure). At any rate, by the time you've added all these bulky amendments, plus the airspace that will come with busting up the clay, your soil will occupy a much larger volume, which can be contained with 2x2's or bricks or whatever suits your fancy. The simple act of loosening the soil and elevating it above ground level by 5 or 6 inches will improve the drainage dramatically. Garry g.williams42@genie.geis.com RTC Coordinator, GEnie Garden RT From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!acsu.buffalo.edu!ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu!v384rv4k Fri Feb 18 17:00:12 EST 1994 Article: 26552 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!acsu.buffalo.edu!ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu!v384rv4k From: v384rv4k@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (R. LYNN HARPER) Subject: Re: Help: What to plant in shady area Message-ID: News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.50AXP Sender: nntp@acsu.buffalo.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: ubvmsa.cc.buffalo.edu Organization: University at Buffalo References: <2jeeth$a80@dude.agcs.com> Distribution: usa Date: Sat, 12 Feb 1994 21:02:00 GMT Lines: 13 In article <2jeeth$a80@dude.agcs.com>, nielsenj@agcs.com (Jeff Nielsen) writes... > >Because of this the garden will only get about 2 hours of >direct sunlight a day. I am wondering what I might be able >to plant there. What will grow well with very little direct >sunlight? I have heard that lettuce should do well. Also, Are you looking for flowers or vegetables? Have you checked out the Burpee seed catalog? It could give you some ideas either way. Lynn V384RV4K@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Fri Feb 18 17:00:13 EST 1994 Article: 26553 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pinecones are ruining the shape of my cypress! Date: 12 Feb 1994 22:35:22 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 25 Message-ID: <2jjlja$icp@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <2jj35k$1eh@scoville.wsrcc.com> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: nextsun.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, alison@wsrcc.com (Alison Chaiken) says: >I'm a beginning gardener with several large, healthy evergreen trees >that I believe are Italian cypress. Their branches grew nearly >vertically upward until last fall they grew lots of small "pine"-cones >that are weighting many of the branches down, ruining the trees' nice >silhouette. So my question is: should I cut these cones off to >restore the tree's nice shape, or will the problem just take care of >itself? The old cones will eventually fall off, but they will be replaced by new ones. So far as I know, the only solution is to cut off the immature cones each season they develop (I'm not sure whether cypresses produce cones annually) I also suspect that the branches of your tree have probably taken a "set." They might partially return to their original orientation, but not completely. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * "Sleeplessness is like metaphysics. A-B College * Be there." Philippi, WV * * ----Charles Simic---- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!mwara1.life.uiuc.edu!user Fri Feb 18 17:00:14 EST 1994 Article: 26554 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!mwara1.life.uiuc.edu!user From: ebmeyer@uiuc.edu (Barbara Meyer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sowbugs, AKA pillbugs Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 13 Feb 1994 02:24:04 GMT Organization: EdTech Center - School of Life Sciences, University of Illinoiss Lines: 27 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: mwara1.life.uiuc.edu In article , ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) wrote: > > My garden contains a veritable plethora of pillbugs. You know, those > little crustaceanous bugs in the garden that roll themselves up when you > touch them? I was wondering if anyone knows if these bugs are harmful, > or beneficial, or neutral. > > OG recently ran a reply to a letter (last month, I think) in which > they claimed that these pests are not as pesty as people think; that they > eat decaying matter, and that if you really hate them, get some chickens. > Someone please confirm or disconfirm this claim. I've had them in my garden for years, and they've never done any harm that I can see. They came with the house - hiding mostly under the bricks and stones that lined (and still line) most of the flower beds. I never bothered to do anything about them - even though in some years there's a LOT of them. I didn't want to apply and poisons - as they are everywhere - and I think it's been the right decision. I HAVE heard somewhere that they might be a problem with tiny seedlings in a greenhouse if they get over-numerous, but for me at least - no problem - just another interesting little soil creature. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "There will be a road. It will not connect two points. It will connect all points. Its speed limit will be the speed of light. It will not go from here to there. There will be no there there. We will all only be here." Anna Paquin, age 11........spokesperson for networkMCI From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!hobbes!earth.armory.com!jon Fri Feb 18 17:00:15 EST 1994 Article: 26555 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!hobbes!earth.armory.com!jon From: jon@armory.com (Jon Shemitz) Subject: Compost "Barrels" Organization: Midnight Beach Date: Sat, 12 Feb 1994 21:25:12 GMT Message-ID: References: <36.4806.2552.0N41F6B5@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Sender: news@armory.com (Usenet News) Nntp-Posting-Host: deeptht.armory.com Lines: 9 Jim, I've been thinking of getting a "compost barrel" for my Mom, for her 60th birthday. She has one of those square black plastic bins, but doesn't use it that much, and so throws away all her plant trimmings and kitchen scraps! Do you have any recommendations in that department? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!olivea!charnel!xmission!u.cc.utah.edu!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:00:16 EST 1994 Article: 26556 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!olivea!charnel!xmission!u.cc.utah.edu!not-for-mail From: mbm1949@u.cc.utah.edu (Michael Miles) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: flys and dirt Date: 12 Feb 1994 20:35:22 -0700 Organization: University Of Utah Computer Center Lines: 22 Message-ID: <2jk75q$i21@u.cc.utah.edu> References: <2j88l3$qfs@apakabar.cc.columbia.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: u.cc.utah.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] A Deborah Malmud (adm1@bonjour.cc.columbia.edu) wrote: : I have recently planted parsley (thanks to all of you who : respoded to my questions about that)). I've noticed little : black flys buzzing around the dirt and around my : apartment. Some seedlings are starting to pop up but : I'm worried that these flys are harmful to them and : to my other plants. What are they? How can I get rid I'm not sure of the exact name of those little black flies, but they live in the dirt. I've eliminated them many times by making a solution of about 1 part rubbing alcohol to 3 parts water and spraying the dirt. Repeat 2 times, once every three days. Avoid wetting the plant foliage. An alternative solution would be liquid soap. An even more drastic, less environmental kind method would be to use any of the chemical bug killers on the market. Oh! Work fast, they will migrate to other pots. Although I've never noticed any plant damage, they've never been welcome in my garden. mm From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!walter!faline!mie Fri Feb 18 17:00:16 EST 1994 Article: 26557 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!walter!faline!mie From: mie@faline..bellcore.com (Martin I. Eiger) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Squashed Seeds? Message-ID: Date: 13 Feb 94 03:45:20 GMT Sender: news@walter.bellcore.com Organization: Bellcore MRE Lines: 10 Nntp-Posting-Host: faline.bellcore.com I've been getting a lot of seed packets in my junk mail lately--mostly things I want, for a change (basil, lavender "Lady". But the seed packets are marked with greasy spots that lead me to suspect that the seeds within are squashed beyond hope. Should I even bother trying to start these freebies--or should I just throw the packets away? Thanks in advance. Elisa Eiger mie@thumper.bellcore.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:00:17 EST 1994 Article: 26558 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: Spiny & Tootie Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Good Mail order source of perennials and ground covers? Date: Sat, 12 Feb 94 23:24:54 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 4 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: delphi.com X-To: Jeff West regarding good source of perennials, ground covers, rhododendrons-try roslyn nursery, wonderful big plants, good prices. ads for them in mostgardenign magazines. z From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!ncoast!pcohio!joan.urban Fri Feb 18 17:00:18 EST 1994 Article: 26559 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RRRRe: Beekeeping Newsgro From: joan.urban@pcohio.com (Joan Urban) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!ncoast!pcohio!joan.urban Distribution: world Message-ID: <24.10869.2732.0NB2D2F6@pcohio.com> References: <2j9pj7$rum@bud.peinet.pe.ca> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 94 16:55:00 -0500 Organization: PC-OHIO PCBOARD - Cleveland, OH - 216-381-3320 Lines: 17 Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup P>>Message-ID: <2j9pj7$rum@bud.peinet.pe.ca> P>>Newsgroup: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural P>>Organization: PEINet, Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada P>>I think a beekeeping newsgroup would be great. Prince Edwards Island is just beautiful. How are the winters? What or where do the Bees go as it must be very...cold at this time of the year? Does the Gulf Stream effect the weather in any positive manner? Joan Urban from Parma, Ohio joan.urban@pcohio.com --- þ OLX 1.51 þ Murphy is out there somewhere ... just waiting ... From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:19 EST 1994 Article: 26560 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!nic.hookup.net!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 12 Feb 94 13:04 PST Subject: Re: Clay Soil Message-ID: <1453300470@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 4 Try double digging. It's too complicated to describe the process here, but you can find descriptions in most home gardening and organic gsrdening books. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:19 EST 1994 Article: 26561 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 12 Feb 94 13:07 PST Subject: Re: Separate beekeeping group Message-ID: <1453300471@cdp> References: <1994Feb7.210736.26@kodiak.gvltec> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 1 There is a beekeepers mailinglist I thinks it's bee-l LISTSERV.ALBNY.EDU From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:20 EST 1994 Article: 26562 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 12 Feb 94 13:02 PST Subject: Re: flys and dirt Message-ID: <1453300469@cdp> References: <2j88l3$qfs@apakabar.cc.columbia.> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 4 They're probably springtails. They won't do too much harm. Mostly they feed on organic matter in your potting mix. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:21 EST 1994 Article: 26563 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 12 Feb 94 12:30 PST Subject: Re: Growing potatoes above ground Message-ID: <1453300464@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 5 I've actually tried it several times, and each time the only potatoes to be found were UNDER the soil. I got nothing at all from the hay covered stems. Go figure. I know some people say it works, not for me tho. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:24 EST 1994 Article: 26564 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 12 Feb 94 12:38 PST Subject: Re: NJ & Philly Flower Show Information Message-ID: <1453300465@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 14 The best way to get to the Philly show is on public transportation of some sort. Not only is the parking next to impossible (not to mention expensive), but the traffic is enough to make one totally nuts. For the best info on transport to the show call the Pa Hort Soc: 215-625-8250 or SEPTA (SE Pa Transport Auth): 215-580-7800. Wait a few days before calling SEPTA, tho, the whole region is calling to see how to get where they have to go without driving in this most recent mess. Another good way is to join a bus tour. You can ride there and back with the group and ignore them the rest of the time. Check with garden centers, garden clubs and if you do call PHS see if they know of one coming from your direction. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:25 EST 1994 Article: 26565 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 12 Feb 94 12:42 PST Subject: Re: To plant or not to plant?! Message-ID: <1453300466@cdp> References: <1994Feb9.095419.2760@rivers> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 9 Your friend can plant potted plants as soon as he gets over moving madness. However, if he's planning to start his stuff from seed, he needs to read the seed pack and catalog really well. Some stuff does best if planted in fall, especially if it needs a chilling period to germinate while other stuff can be spring planted. Best not to rush. Moving is bad enough. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:26 EST 1994 Article: 26566 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 12 Feb 94 12:46 PST Subject: Re: Bottom heat for Seedlings Message-ID: <1453300467@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 4 Heating cables are relatively cheap and last for several years. They're also m much more reliable than the set-ups you're thinking of. Get yourself a couple. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:27 EST 1994 Article: 26567 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 12 Feb 94 12:57 PST Subject: Re: Seed Starting medium Message-ID: <1453300468@cdp> References: <1994Feb9.032333.14047@osuunx.ucc> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 10 It would probably be a good idea to add some sterilized soil or some compost to your mix. For some yet unknown reason, according to the guys at Penn State, 15% soil or compost in the mix for starting and for growing on has very pos- itive effects. If you don't have access to the above, feed your seedlings once a week til you're ready to harden them off. I use a combination of fish emulsion and sea- weed liquid, but you could just use a water soluble house plant food 15-30-15. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:27 EST 1994 Article: 26568 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 12 Feb 94 12:28 PST Subject: Phila Flower Show Message-ID: <1453300463@cdp> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 34 If you're thinking of going to the Philadelphia Flower Show, March 6-13, and you'd like to meet some folk while you're at it, the Outdoor Singles will be going on Saturday, the 12. The group will be led by Elaine Lemanow, who works with Neighborhood Gardens Assoc./A Philadelphia Land Trust. (NGA was established to preserve some of Philly's hundreds of community gardens.) Elaine tells me that the plan is to meet in the lobby of Convention Hall, the site of the show, at 2:30pm, get some tips on what's happening, see the show and then gather for refreshments at 5pm when most of the bus groups will have gone home and there's space to breathe. Convention Hall is in West Philadelphia across the street from Children's Hospital. It is NOT the same as the Convention Center. The show theme is "Islands in the Sun", and the Bermuda Hort. Soc. will have a special exhibit...as will Organic Gardening magazine. For more info., call Elaine at 215-625-8264 during business hours. I figure on getting in free by answering gardening and horticulture questions on Monday and Thursday morning at the Horticultural Society booth in the "Horticourt". If you're at the show then, drop by. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:00:28 EST 1994 Article: 26569 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!cs.umd.edu!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail From: tillman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Fred Tillman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: bonsai seedlings Date: 13 Feb 1994 08:12:10 -0500 Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 10 Message-ID: <2jl8vaINN9p5@oasys.dt.navy.mil> References: Reply-To: tillman@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Fred Tillman) NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil In rec.gardens, ah812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Ted Williamson) writes: >Would anyone know where I could find seeds or seedlings for bonsai > >-- Ted, I have read that you use regular seeds/seedlings of any variety of any plant to start bonsai. You just contrain the plant to the small container to "shrink" it as an adult. There is a regimen for caring for bonsai that is too time consuming for many. Check out a library book on bonsai. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Fri Feb 18 17:00:29 EST 1994 Article: 26570 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: "not so mighty" Oak Date: 13 Feb 1994 15:08:17 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 29 Message-ID: <2jlfp1$6l@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <2jj8hu$rhs@Mercury.mcs.com> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: nextsun.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, synic@MCS.COM (Kevin Conway) says: > >This friend is an ameteur landscaper. He has planted (when?) some >native white oaks in the Chicago area which are dying. Specifically, >they are becoming chlorotic (sp?)[turning yellow]. His question is, >are there any new strains of white oak (quercus alba) that can >tolerate alkaline/dry soil? He is particularly interested in any new >strains or remedial action for the existing trees. I'd suggest that he call an extension agent and find out --exactly-- what is killing the trees. It may be air pollution, oak wilt, lack of iron in the soil, alkaline soil, a lot of different things. Acidifying the soil is fairly easy, so is providing iron--there are quite a few different commerical products that will do it--Mir-Acid, for example, or any of the preparations sold as azalea/rhododendron fertilizers. But I think something else may be going on, possibly a disease or air pollution damage; oak trees usually aren't fussy about soil conditions, unless the conditions are so bad not much else will grow either. He needs to consult a local USDA office about this problem. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * "Sleeplessness is like metaphysics. A-B College * Be there." Philippi, WV * * ----Charles Simic---- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!REYNOLSE@esvx17.es.dupont.com Fri Feb 18 17:00:30 EST 1994 Article: 26571 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!REYNOLSE@esvx17.es.dupont.com From: reynolse@esvx17.es.dupont.com Subject: Square foot gardening Message-ID: <1994Feb13.150816.22601@es.dupont.com> Sender: news@es.dupont.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: esvx17.es.dupont.com Reply-To: reynolse@esvx17.es.dupont.com Organization: DuPont (Opinions are those of the writer only) Date: Sun, 13 Feb 1994 15:08:16 GMT Lines: 5 I am reading Mel Bartholamew's(?) "Square Foot Gardening". I would appreciate any comments pro/con. or any tips for a rookie. Regards, Steve From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!nwnexus!loofah Fri Feb 18 17:00:31 EST 1994 Article: 26572 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!nwnexus!loofah From: loofah@halcyon.com (Kathryn L. Stein) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Interplanting Questions Date: 13 Feb 1994 14:24:28 -0800 Organization: "A World of Information at your Fingertips" Lines: 10 Sender: news@nwfocus.wa.com Message-ID: <2jm9as$fan@nwfocus.wa.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: nwfocus.wa.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] I've seen references to a method of planting called interplanting and would be interested in any literature that will tell me What to plant with What. So far all I've seen are articles that discuss the method, but don't give any real useful data. Maybe a FAQ would be a nice addition? :-) Thanks. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Fri Feb 18 17:00:32 EST 1994 Article: 26573 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Starting pansies for fall bloom Message-ID: <1994Feb13.124056.22842@walter.cray.com> Lines: 7 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <2jgn4d$jse@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> Date: 13 Feb 94 12:40:55 CST Mine are still alive here in Hyattsville MD following Zone 6 conditions (We are normally zone 7) Some years (not this year) they produce almost solid color throughout the winter. I get mine in flats also byt if I started them from seed, I imagine late July would be a good time to sow. They do not like heat at all though. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!jlupson Fri Feb 18 17:00:33 EST 1994 Article: 26574 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!jlupson From: jlupson@uoguelph.ca (Janet Lupson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: bonsai seedlings Date: 14 Feb 1994 03:17:08 GMT Organization: University of Guelph Lines: 22 Message-ID: <2jmqfk$df9@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: herman.cs.uoguelph.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Ted Williamson (ah812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA) wrote: : Would anyone know where I could find seeds or seedlings for bonsai : trees (especially Japanese varieties) in the Ottawa area? I want : to start growing from scratch rather than buying a pre-shaped tree. : I would really appreciate it if anyone could help me in my search. : -- Dominion Seed House carries bonsai seeds for the following species: Maidenhair tree (Ginkgo biloba) - 10 seeds for $3.25 (cat.#69-0115) Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) - 10 seeds for $1.25 (cat.#69-0113) Japanese Black Pine (Pinus thunbergii) - 10 seeds for $1.25 (cat.#69-0112) You can order by FAX 1-800-567-4594 or phone (905-873-3037) or by mail to: Dominion Seed House Box 2500 Georgetown, ON Canada L7G 5L6 Jan From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Fri Feb 18 17:00:33 EST 1994 Article: 26575 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: ResourceNet and GardenNet Message-ID: <5JVPHc1w165w@salzo.Cary.NC.US> Date: Sun, 13 Feb 94 22:00:51 EST Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 11 I hope to catch the attention of Jim McNelly, The Compost Man with this post. Jim, could you please tell us more about your plans concerning this ResourceNet and GardenNet that I've heard rumors about? Quite a few of the old $P Garden BB members are now on GEnie (including moi) and I'd be happy to convey your comments in that direction. BTW, my GEnie e-mail address is g.williams42@genie.geis.com. Garry Williams gdwill@salzo.cary.nc.us g.williams42@genie.geis.com RoundTable Conference Coordinator, GEnie Garden RT From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!kalia Fri Feb 18 17:00:34 EST 1994 Article: 26576 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!kalia From: kalia@netcom.com (Kalia Kliban) Subject: Ants in my plants! Help! Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 03:04:54 GMT Lines: 16 I have a serious problem with ants nesting in the bases of my (Sequoia) strawberries, also in a lot of my potted plants. Those little metal ant stakes do nothing but rust, and I am reluctant to spray food plants with anything strong enough to take out an ant colony. Is there some ingenious, non-toxic solution to this problem on the level of, say, Tanglefoot (which cleared up the ant/scale problem in my orange tree in a matter of weeks)? Please respond by email, as I am an infrequent newsreader and may miss posted responses. Thanks, K -- -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Kalia Kliban kalia@netcom.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins Fri Feb 18 17:00:35 EST 1994 Article: 26577 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins From: ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: help with carrots Date: 14 Feb 1994 04:20:28 GMT Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation Lines: 25 Message-ID: <9402132318591.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> References: <1994Feb3.022119.12404@k12.ucs.umass.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: delphi.com >I am an organic gardener in Western Mass. and have had a lot of success with >everything except carrots. Each year I give them the old college try, but >before I can even find evidence of sprouts, the weeds have all but made it >impossible to keep track of them. Any help would be much appreciated..Jeff Jeff, I'm not sure this is the best answer, but I have the same problem yet manage to get some usable carrots by the end of the season. I have had no success trying to plant carrot seeds individually using the square-foot method that is my general practice. I broadcast the seed in the area I have marked out for them and weed weekly. Once the seeds have sprouted, a typical weeding session also uproots a number of the seedlings, thinning them out in the process. I continue to weed and thin agressively until harvest time. At some point in the process, the thinnings are big enough to eat and are great steamed. Greg -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Hankins ghankins@delphi.com "'Tis well said," replied Candide Hendersonville, Tennessee "but we must tend our gardens." -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins Fri Feb 18 17:00:36 EST 1994 Article: 26578 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins From: ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Transplanting people... Date: 14 Feb 1994 04:20:46 GMT Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation Lines: 17 Message-ID: <9402132318592.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: delphi.com >I have gotten a copy of the Park's catalog and assume that it is a pretty >good representation of what grows in the South. Basically, I am going to >wait until I get there to choose seeds, and I am definitely building >raised beds as I am used to loamy soil and not red clay. > There's a seed catalog called "Hastings," I believe, that may be from Georgia. I highly recommend Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, P.O. Box 170, Earlysville, Virginia 22936 as a source of Southern heirloom varieties. They have lots of old seeds that you won't see in other catalogs. I have found the quality of their seeds to be excellent. Greg -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Hankins ghankins@delphi.com "'Tis well said," replied Candide Hendersonville, Tennessee "but we must tend our gardens." -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins Fri Feb 18 17:00:37 EST 1994 Article: 26579 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins From: ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gardening in the arid Southwest Date: 14 Feb 1994 04:21:24 GMT Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation Lines: 20 Message-ID: <9402132318594.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> References: <2j989l$4v8@konark.cs.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: delphi.com >I live in El Paso, TX; in the arid Southwest. >I just moved into a new house and would like to create >a garden that has native plants and plants that do not >need too much water. I would appreciate any suggestions >of how to go about it. > >In particular I would appreciate pointers to mail order >places that have such plants (seeds etc) and related literature in >stock. (The local nurseries are kind of expensive.) You need to check out a company called Plants of the Southwest. I can't find my catalog to give you the address, but they are in either Santa Fe or Albuquerque. They specialize in desert plants. Greg -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Hankins ghankins@delphi.com "'Tis well said," replied Candide Hendersonville, Tennessee "but we must tend our gardens." -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins Fri Feb 18 17:00:38 EST 1994 Article: 26580 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins From: ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sowbugs, AKA pillbugs Date: 14 Feb 1994 04:21:05 GMT Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation Lines: 26 Message-ID: <9402132318593.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: delphi.com > My garden contains a veritable plethora of pillbugs. You know, those >little crustaceanous bugs in the garden that roll themselves up when you >touch them? I was wondering if anyone knows if these bugs are harmful, >or beneficial, or neutral. > > OG recently ran a reply to a letter (last month, I think) in which >they claimed that these pests are not as pesty as people think; that they >eat decaying matter, and that if you really hate them, get some chickens. >Someone please confirm or disconfirm this claim. Ruth, I have the same ?Problem?. My garden has oodles of the little round guys and I have often wondered whether they pose a threat to anything. I must say that I have never actually witnessed them munching on a veggie or a flower, nor have I experienced major damage that I could not trace to another source. (I did find quite a few in the vicinity of rotting core of an over-moist, over-blanched escarole once.) This lack of evidence of wrongdoing, combined with real doubt that I could actually do anything to reduce the population of a critter so ubiquitous, has led me to ignore them. Greg -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Hankins ghankins@delphi.com "'Tis well said," replied Candide Hendersonville, Tennessee "but we must also tend our gardens." -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:00:38 EST 1994 Article: 26581 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Interplanting Questions Date: 13 Feb 1994 20:30:04 -0800 Organization: California Technology Project of The Calif State Univ Lines: 9 Message-ID: <2jmuoc$ssu@eis.calstate.edu> References: <2jm9as$fan@nwfocus.wa.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: eis.calstate.edu John Jeavons HOW TO GROW MORE VEGETABLES ... I can't remember the complete title, has a good treatment on what works and doesn't work. In my own garden, I have decided that bush beans and corn grow well together, lettuce can be squeezed in between brassicas, sugar snap peas go well with corn too, dill and cilantro naturalize like weeds between cabbages, onions and peas, cukes and corn didn't work, winter squash and corn did... The Jeavon's book is quite good ingiving hints. -- Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!ukma!news2.uunet.ca!uunet.ca!uunet.ca!portnoy!canrem.com!vello.tou Fri Feb 18 17:00:39 EST 1994 Article: 26582 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: BUILDING A WATERFALL From: vello.tou@canrem.com (Vello Tou) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!ukma!news2.uunet.ca!uunet.ca!uunet.ca!portnoy!canrem.com!vello.tou Distribution: world Message-ID: <60.20052.4198.0N194C2C@canrem.com> References: <1994Feb10.092339.2777@rivers> Date: Sun, 13 Feb 94 18:21:00 -0400 Organization: CRS Online (Toronto, Ontario) Lines: 30 In answer to Anand Rao re Building a Waterfall... When creating a waterfall for a backyard pond you need to think of the waterfall in 3 dimensions. View it as a set of stairs that are narrow at the top and wider at the bottom. The drop from one level to the next should not be over one foot because if the location is subject to gusts of wind you may lose a lot of water out of the pond as the stream is blown away from its intended path. The second rule is to make sure that the edge from where your waterfall starts is as perfectly level as can be, with the lip being sharp and undercut because this will give you a nice waterfall at minimum flow. This was done to Niagara Falls some time back to get the maximum effect with the minimum flow of water. The first level should cascade to the next and wider section and so on until most of it returns to the pond. I like to break up the flow by putting obstacles under the "falls" but this can also cause excessive splashing and thus water loss. Make sure that you plant appropriate plants near the falls that will enjoy the excess moisture (ferns, arum, marsh marigolds, bog plants etc). You will find that the falls will attract birds, mammals, frogs and insects such as dragonflies, butterflies. As to the source of rocks look for a nearby abandoned quarry, construction excavation site, rocky beach etc. Out of principle you should not buy rocks! Last rule have fun, think young. Best Regards Vello Tou Usenet: vello.tou@canrem.com Mississauga Ontario Canada Fidonet 1:229/15 CRS Online * 1st 1.11 #2615 * I get mail therefore I exist. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:40 EST 1994 Article: 26583 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 13 Feb 94 10:50 PST Subject: Re: Yellowing Leaves! HELP! Message-ID: <1453300476@cdp> References: <2j22n6$4fc@illuminati.io.com> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 11 It might be a salt build up problem. Try watering your seedlings until the w water pours out of the bottom of their containers...at least 1/wk. This will leach the salts out of the potting mix. On the other hand, it's pretty early to be starting tomatoes in Ohio (assuming from your address or something I read that that's where you live. It might be a better idea to start over...4-6 weeks before you can plant the tomatoes out in the garden, and fertilize with very dilute solutions: 1/4 normal usually works pretty well. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:41 EST 1994 Article: 26584 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 13 Feb 94 10:26 PST Subject: Re: Safe Cat Deterrent That Works Message-ID: <1453300473@cdp> References: <761012895.AA07351@clone.his.com> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 7 And if the owners weren't fast enough, the Humane Society killed the cats. What a neighborly way of dealing with the problem. Sprinkling blood meal in the garden and renewing it after each rain not only deters cats but adds significant amounts of N to the soil. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:42 EST 1994 Article: 26585 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 13 Feb 94 10:32 PST Subject: Re: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advi Message-ID: <1453300474@cdp> References: <11FEB94.22171881@shrsys.hslc.org> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 12 Rather than amend the whole bed, try amending each planting hole with organic materials, compost, coffee chaff, peat humus, manure or whatever you can find most easily. Then mulch the bed with more organic matter: composted wood chips, wood chips mixed with manure or blood meal, salt hay, cocoa hulls (from Hershey's). In winter mulch the bed with Christmas greens and Christmas tree branches. Over time, as you amend, plant and mulch, you will improve the soil in the entire bed. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:43 EST 1994 Article: 26586 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 13 Feb 94 10:23 PST Subject: Re: Morningglory from seed? Message-ID: <1453300472@cdp> References: <2jge5n$62p@apollo.it.luc.edu> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 12 You can try either direct seeding or starting directly in deep pots. Morning glories are very strange. Sometimes they just don't seem to germinate when seeded directly, but once you have them they self seed VERY readily and try to take over the entire universe. We're still pulling "morning glory weeds" out of our community garden, and no one's planted them for 5-7 years. It may help to soak the seeds overnight or to chip them with a file if you insist on taking the risk. We're thinking of adding them to hemp on our garden's list of prohibited plants. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:00:44 EST 1994 Article: 26587 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 13 Feb 94 10:36 PST Subject: Re: magazines Message-ID: <1453300475@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 5 It's not a magzine, but you might want to check out the newsletter "HortIdeas" It summarizes all the newest stuff in hort. publications from the most scientific to the most popular. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!nwnexus!ole!rwing!eskimo!tinne Fri Feb 18 17:00:45 EST 1994 Article: 26588 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!nwnexus!ole!rwing!eskimo!tinne From: tinne@eskimo.com (Susan Profit) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bottom heat for Seedlings Message-ID: Date: 13 Feb 94 23:36:32 GMT References: Organization: Eskimo North (206) For-Ever Lines: 7 <2jg273$mc8@news.iastate.edu> Organization: Eskimo North (206) For-Ever Hi. Top of refridgerator works for me. Rotate plants into window on rare sunny days, and back at night. Constant warmth, easy access for rotation and chacking plants. Tinne@eskimo.com ;-) :-D Laughter Heals From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!nwnexus!ole!rwing!eskimo!tinne Fri Feb 18 17:00:46 EST 1994 Article: 26589 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!nwnexus!ole!rwing!eskimo!tinne From: tinne@eskimo.com (Susan Profit) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Medicinal Herb Garden needs volunteers Message-ID: Date: 13 Feb 94 23:48:48 GMT References: <7760@lanslide.hls.com> Organization: Eskimo North (206) For-Ever Lines: 7 Hi. U of W Medicinal Herb Garden needs volunteers. Bi-weekly tours in season, weekly cultivation and indentification hands-on work parties, participation in international seed exchange. (206) 543-1126 U of Washington c/o Botany KB-15 UW Seattle WA 98195 Talked to them at Garden Show th{is week, _need_ volunteers. Good way to gain knowledge of unusual plants and techniques under tuteledge of experts. Tinne@eskimo.com ;-) :-D Laughter Heals From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!jabba.ess.harris.com!news.ess.harris.com!SU1AC!mnoeske Fri Feb 18 17:00:47 EST 1994 Article: 26590 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!jabba.ess.harris.com!news.ess.harris.com!SU1AC!mnoeske From: mnoeske@SU1AC.ess.harris.com (Mike Noeske x4143) Subject: Re: test(& 6 more weeks til spring) Message-ID: Sender: news@news.ess.harris.com (News account) Nntp-Posting-Host: su1ac.ess.harris.com Organization: Harris Corporation GCSD References: <1994Feb2.202038.14452@gw.wmich.edu> <1994Feb3.205221.14482@gw.wmich.edu> <1994Feb10.173647.17822@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com> Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 12:06:11 GMT Lines: 23 In article <1994Feb10.173647.17822@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com>, jaimef@cmhcsys.com (Jaime Fuhr) writes: |> 157ochs@gw.wmich.edu wrote: |> |> : Jeff |> : BTW the groundhog managed to see his shadow(through the clouds!) so I guess |> : we have 6 more weeks 'til spring! |> |> If you don't want that spring, we'll be glad to take here ;-) Currently, we |> have blanketed ice everywhere. |> |> I think someone told me that were going to have a longer winter...bleah! |> -- |> *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*- |> Jaime Fuhr, CMHC Systems jaimef@cmhcprd.cmhcsys.COM |> |> Columbus, Ohio "None of us are as smart as all of us" |> DeVry Institute of Technology - The One Minute Manager 6 more weeks? The temp this last week was low 80's here in central Fla. The sun was shining, trees are all budding, birds were singing and the pine tree pollen is covering everything. I dont know if I can take 6 more weeks of this until spring arrives. Sorry, just rubbing it in......Mike From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!westendorf Fri Feb 18 17:00:48 EST 1994 Article: 26591 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!westendorf From: westendorf@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Question? Potatoes Message-ID: <1994Feb14.065648.22827@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 14 Feb 94 06:56:48 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 6 I have alot of potatoes left from my garden last year, don't remember the kind. Can I plant them this year and get a new crop of potatoes? The potatoes are still firm and haven't been sprayed with a sprout control product. Thanks Mary From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah Fri Feb 18 17:00:50 EST 1994 Article: 26592 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah From: leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) Newsgroups: rec.food.cooking,soc.culture.japan,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Beefsteak Plant, What Is It ??? Message-ID: <1350@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 14 Feb 94 06:19:53 GMT References: <103041@cup.portal.com> <2j6flpINNerk@emory.mathcs.emory.edu> Reply-To: leah@smith.chi.il.us (L.A.Z. Smith) Organization: R. H. E. Smith Corp., Wheeling, IL Lines: 31 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.food.cooking:68146 soc.culture.japan:42986 rec.gardens:26592 Mark Robert Thorson wrote: >>I've sampled an herb called "beefsteak plant" which is only available >>at Japanese food stores. It is deep purple, and appears to be shredded >>leaves. It is only available mixed with monosodium glutamate. It has >>a bright flavor (probably due to the MSG) which tastes a bit like grapes. >>What part of the plant is this from? Is the plant an annual, a shrub, >>a tree, or what? What is this plant used for in Japan? Anyone in Japan >>care to swap some seeds for some American food? In article <2j6flpINNerk@emory.mathcs.emory.edu> mworley@mathcs.emory.edu (Meg Worley) writes: >Ahhhhhhhhh, shiso. What I wouldn't give to have it available >at the stores here... > >It's the leaf, and is usually bright green, about 3" in diameter. >It is used to cure salt plums, eaten with rice, and a million >other tasty things. It's an annual, I think, although I can't >be sure, because the polution of Osaka ruined the only plant I tried >to grow. It grows to be about 2 ft high. Yes, it's an annual, according to the sources I've checked. The Latin name of the plant is _Perilla frutescens._ "Beefsteak plant" usually means the purple variety of the plant. There's a green variety as well (aoshiso; the purple is akashiso); those green plastic leaves that sushi chefs decorate your fish with are meant to be aoshiso. Richters sells seeds of both. For a catalog, send e-mail to richter@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (Actually, now that I look, I see that you can place orders via e-mail, too, I assume by credit card.) Leah Smith leah@smith.chi.il.us From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah Fri Feb 18 17:00:51 EST 1994 Article: 26593 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah From: leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Leach Field Garden Message-ID: <1352@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 14 Feb 94 07:54:25 GMT References: <36.4261.2552.0N41F0CF@gcbb.granite.mn.org> <1327@smith.CHI.IL.US> <19940206.18062760.lizszeliga@delphi.com> Reply-To: leah@smith.chi.il.us (L.A.Z. Smith) Organization: R. H. E. Smith Corp., Wheeling, IL Lines: 29 In article <19940206.18062760.lizszeliga@delphi.com> LIZSZELIGA@delphi.com writes: >I, too, am planning >to put in a veggie and cutting garden in an area near a leech field. How do I >determine the boundries of the leach field? I know the location of the septic >tank, and I know w >hich direction the leach field is in , but I have no idea what the dimensions >of the field are. Assuming that you can't get this info from old surveys or other info that the previous owner should have passed on to you, here's one method for determining the length of the field: Somewhere over near the septic tank, take a long thin rod and (Gently!) probe around in the earth until you find one of the leach pipes. Now, stick the rod into the earth every few feet in a straight line from the tank until you come to its end. You might also be able to get some information about minimum required sizes in your area that will give you some ideas about how big your field might be. Also, talk to whoever services your septic tank, especially if it's a business that's been around awhile. The people who took care of our tank had been doing since the house was built and one guy knew _everything_ about our tank and field. Good luck. Leah Smith leah@smith.chi.il.us From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah Fri Feb 18 17:00:52 EST 1994 Article: 26594 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah From: leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: facial tissue (was Composting Newspaper?) Message-ID: <1353@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 14 Feb 94 07:58:37 GMT References: <2j5dq1INNa9g@emory.mathcs.emory.edu> <36.4735.2552.0N41F57A@gcbb.granite.mn.org> <2j9lhm$auj@apollo.it.luc.edu> Reply-To: leah@smith.UUCP (L.A.Z. Smith) Organization: R. H. E. Smith Corp., Wheeling, IL Lines: 15 In article <2j9lhm$auj@apollo.it.luc.edu> jmcnult@orion.it.luc.edu (John A. Mcnulty) writes: >I blow my nose on a white, generic, recycled tissue (in the bathroom, >but I am not suffering from a dread disease; does that matter?). >Should I: > >Flush it down the toilet (I assume our suburban Chicago sewage is >treated in an environmentally sane manner)? Don't flush it down the toilet. Facial tissue doesn't decompose in water the same way toilet tissue does and can clog up your pipes. (And I've seen a plumber's bill to prove it!) Leah Smith leah@smith.chi.il.us From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu!KAPLAN Fri Feb 18 17:00:53 EST 1994 Article: 26595 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu!KAPLAN From: KAPLAN@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu (Reid Kaplan) Subject: Re: Help: What to plant in shady area Message-ID: <16F5D7D4B.KAPLAN@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu> Sender: news@news.yale.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: yaleads.ycc.yale.edu Organization: Yale University References: <2jeeth$a80@dude.agcs.com> Date: Mon, 14 Feb 94 08:54:27 EST Lines: 38 >In article <2jeeth$a80@dude.agcs.com>, nielsenj@agcs.com (Jeff Nielsen) writes... >> >>Because of this the garden will only get about 2 hours of >>direct sunlight a day. I am wondering what I might be able >>to plant there. What will grow well with very little direct >>sunlight? I have heard that lettuce should do well. Also, > We have just gone through a big excercise to find plants that do well in shade (no veggies, though). For evergreen skeleton/background: Kalmia (Bullseye) Yew (fastigiate) Rhodo Catawba Christmas fern American holly Perrenials: Hosta (a must, but scatter them) Astilbe (also a must: Beautiful spiky flowers - plant in drifts) Bergenia (white and pink flowers, big evergreen leaves) Dicentra (bleeding heart - tall background and bright flowers) Primula denticulata (foreground flower interest) Viola cornuta (ditto) Spring bulbs: Round up all the usual suspects. Annuals for fill-in: Impatiens (the paler, pastel colors look best in shade) Begonias Ground cover: English ivy (its already there in force under my trees) A few others I have forgotten ...Reid Kaplan From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!icaen!icaen.uiowa.edu!whellmer Fri Feb 18 17:00:54 EST 1994 Article: 26596 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!icaen!icaen.uiowa.edu!whellmer From: whellmer@icaen.uiowa.edu (Werner Kenneth Hellmer) Subject: HELP!!! MR. COMPOST Message-ID: <1994Feb14.154659.4489@icaen.uiowa.edu> Sender: usenet@icaen.uiowa.edu (UseNet News daemon) Organization: Iowa Computer Aided Engineering Network, University of Iowa Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 15:46:59 GMT Lines: 24 Dear Mr. Compost, I am a student at the University of Iowa, starting research involving the land application of non-recyclable paper. I posted the article below to several other newsgroups and several of them told me to come to you. They said that "Mr. Compost has the dirt on dirt." I am curious if you have any wisdom or advice on the matter. >>My delegated area of research is based on the land application of non-recyclable >>paper wastes. I have done an extensive amount of research on the subject and am >>having difficulty finding anything. I have one article from "CHEMOSPHERE" >>specifically related to the topic and I feel that other sources are pretty much >>played out. Is this topic to new for there to be any publication? I've >>also managed to find some info which states that the application of paper to >>agricultural lands can disrupt the soil's C/N ratio, harming the crop yield. To >>the dismay of my professor, all of the info seems to point against this method >>of disposal. Any and all suggestions or leads would be greatly appreciated. P.S. I will try to scan for responses often, but email would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the time. -- *Werner Hellmer whellmer@icaen.uiowa.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey Fri Feb 18 17:00:55 EST 1994 Article: 26597 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!news.bu.edu!butyng.bu.edu!bailey From: bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Composting Sod? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 14 Feb 1994 16:19:22 GMT Organization: Boston University Corp Ed Center Lines: 13 Sender: bailey@butyng.bu.edu Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jo8aa$m21@news.bu.edu> References: <2j917m$1f0@news.bu.edu> <36.4815.2552.0N41F6C5@gcbb.granite.mn.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: butyng.bu.edu "Sod is dos spelled backwards"!? My sides still hurt from laughing! And I love the Buick -- "Honey, don't you think you should mow the car?" Thanks Jim -- you may not have solved my sod problem (Although the community compost will probably benefit -- I only wish *I* could, the results are all going to highway landscaping, not us taxpayers), but you definitely made my day! Sherry (snicker!!) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn Fri Feb 18 17:00:56 EST 1994 Article: 26598 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn From: wvhorn@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (William VanHorne) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: test(& 6 more weeks til spring) Date: 14 Feb 1994 16:26:24 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 19 Message-ID: <2jo8ng$40e@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <1994Feb2.202038.14452@gw.wmich.edu> <1994Feb3.205221.14482@gw.wmich.edu> <1994Feb10.173647.17822@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article , Mike Noeske x4143 wrote: >6 more weeks? The temp this last week was low 80's here in central >Fla. The sun was shining, trees are all budding, birds were singing and >the pine tree pollen is covering everything. I dont know if I can take >6 more weeks of this until spring arrives. > >Sorry, just rubbing it in......Mike Enjoy it while you can, monkey boy. Talk to me in July when central Fla. is nature's version of a Turkish Bath, the cockroaches are flying, the catfish are walking, the toads are climbing, and even the snakes come inside to cool off. And remember, "live" spelled backwards is "evil". ---Bill VanHorne From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn Fri Feb 18 17:00:57 EST 1994 Article: 26599 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn From: wvhorn@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (William VanHorne) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How deep the soil? Date: 14 Feb 1994 16:34:34 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 25 Message-ID: <2jo96q$41f@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <19940211.071831.49@almaden.ibm.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article <19940211.071831.49@almaden.ibm.com>, Gale A. Wilson wrote: >Question is, how much more soil should I add; or rather, what should >the total soil depth be in this situation? I don't want too many >restrictions on what I can grow. I was thinking of getting some >2x10" planks, making a box and adding about 6" of new soil. >Would this work? Sorry if this is an elementary question - I've >not seen this subject in the "beginner" books I'm looking through. That sounds about right. My raised beds have 6"-9" of soil mix on top of cement-hard clay, and everything grows just fine. If you use 2" thick pine boards for your box, and maybe coat them with a little Thompson's Water Seal first, the boards will last ... well mine are now 2, with no cracking or warping yet. You won't find wood much cheaper than good ol' junk pine, and it works nicely. One big advantage to using raised beds in a box is that you get the chance to make your own soil from the start. Lemme put in a plug for Mel Bartholomew's soil mix in "Square Foot Gardening" which I've had great success with (although he gives you measurements in "pails" and "coffee cans" rather than cubic feet). ---Bill VanHorne From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn Fri Feb 18 17:00:58 EST 1994 Article: 26600 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!wvhorn From: wvhorn@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (William VanHorne) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Square foot gardening Date: 14 Feb 1994 17:03:06 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 31 Message-ID: <2joasa$46q@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: <1994Feb13.150816.22601@es.dupont.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bottom.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu In article <1994Feb13.150816.22601@es.dupont.com>, wrote: > I am reading Mel Bartholamew's(?) "Square Foot Gardening". I would >appreciate any comments pro/con. or any tips for a rookie. I was very happy with Mel's system last year, and since I am a novice at vegetable gardening, I really appreciated the advice at the rear of the book on each particular plant. I found that for lettuce, carrots, onions, and determinate tomatoes that the planting schedules/density recommended in the book was just right. This year I'm going to plant 1/3 the number of green beans he recommends per sq. foot as the bean vines attempted to take over last year. I also was not happy with vertical growing of indeterminate tomatoes. I grew one Celebrity vine up a string as recommended in the book, and caged another. I found that the caged plant produced 2-3 times the number of tomatoes, and I didn't find any difference in taste or size. I also think that he over-plants cukes. Give your cukes more space, both horiz. and vert., and you will be happy. I built 4x4 raised bed plots (although 3x4 probably would work better unless you have a 40" reach) and really enjoyed gardening. Weeding and watering were trivial tasks as the high density of plants crowded- out the weeds, and the shade from the large guys, like broccoli, kept the sun from baking the soil. Overall, I am very happy with Mel's system of intensive gardening and I've found that gardening has become more like fun and less like work. ---Bill VanHorne From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:01:00 EST 1994 Article: 26601 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!not-for-mail From: fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq Butt) Subject: Re: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advi Message-ID: <2jo61m$btl@engage.sps.mot.com> Lines: 41 Sender: news@oakhill.sps.mot.com (oakhill news) Nntp-Posting-Host: engage Organization: Motorola RISC Software, Austin, Texas References: <11FEB94.22171881@shrsys.hslc.org> <1453300474@cdp> Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 15:40:38 GMT In article <1453300474@cdp> Libby Goldstein writes: >Rather than amend the whole bed, try amending each planting hole with organic >materials, compost, coffee chaff, peat humus, manure or whatever you can find >most easily. > >Then mulch the bed with more organic matter: composted wood chips, wood chips >mixed with manure or blood meal, salt hay, cocoa hulls (from Hershey's). In >winter mulch the bed with Christmas greens and Christmas tree branches. > >Over time, as you amend, plant and mulch, you will improve the soil in the >entire bed. > >Libby Other than aesthetics, I would probably agree here. Hybrid Tea roses, for example, do not tend to have huge, long roots that would absolutely demand a giant bed. It *is* possible to make a, say 3ft by 2ft hole, amend the heck out of it and plant a rose which will do quite happily for quite a long time in it. I know this because of the incredible fun I have chipping away Texas limestone whenever I have to plant anything! Think flint and pickaxes :-) ! The best solution I I have found is to fill each hole with highly organic, well-draining soil and plant away. fmb -- Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightest relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Fri Feb 18 17:01:02 EST 1994 Article: 26602 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: test(& 6 more weeks til spring) Message-ID: <1994Feb14.092926.23026@walter.cray.com> Lines: 27 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1994Feb2.202038.14452@gw.wmich.edu> <1994Feb3.205221.14482@gw.wmich.edu> <1994Feb10.173647.17822@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com> Date: 14 Feb 94 09:29:26 CST In article , mnoeske@SU1AC.ess.harris.com (Mike Noeske x4143) writes: |> In article <1994Feb10.173647.17822@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com>, jaimef@cmhcsys.com (Jaime Fuhr) writes: |> |> 157ochs@gw.wmich.edu wrote: |> |> |> |> : Jeff |> |> : BTW the groundhog managed to see his shadow(through the clouds!) so I guess |> |> : we have 6 more weeks 'til spring! |> |> |> |> If you don't want that spring, we'll be glad to take here ;-) Currently, we |> |> have blanketed ice everywhere. |> |> |> |> I think someone told me that were going to have a longer winter...bleah! |> |> -- |> |> *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*- |> |> Jaime Fuhr, CMHC Systems jaimef@cmhcprd.cmhcsys.COM |> |> |> |> Columbus, Ohio "None of us are as smart as all of us" |> |> DeVry Institute of Technology - The One Minute Manager |> 6 more weeks? The temp this last week was low 80's here in central |> Fla. The sun was shining, trees are all budding, birds were singing and |> the pine tree pollen is covering everything. I dont know if I can take |> 6 more weeks of this until spring arrives. |> |> Sorry, just rubbing it in......Mike We'll get back to you in July. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:01:03 EST 1994 Article: 26603 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet From: white@eng.gtefsd.com (Lisa White) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Climbing Plants Date: 14 Feb 1994 18:02:55 GMT Organization: GTE Federal Systems Division, GSC Lines: 43 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2joecf$5s0@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> References: <103714@cup.portal.com> Reply-To: white@eng.gtefsd.com NNTP-Posting-Host: packard.eng.gtefsd.com In article 103714@cup.portal.com, amigan@cup.portal.com (Mike - Medwid) writes: > We wish to plant a flowering vine to cover our tool shed. The three > we are considering are the purple wisteria, yellow trumpet honeysuckle, > or morning glories. Which of these grows the fastest? And does anyone > have any experiences good or bad with any of these three climbers? > > Any other suggestions for flowering climbers? Please e-mail > amigan@cup.portal.com Hi Mike, I know a bit about each of these that might sway you one way or the other. 1) Wisteria is a *very* heavy vine, and puts a lot of stress on the structure holding it up.. The structure really must be up to handling some serious weight. Also if the flower clusters can't hang from the vine because the vine is directly on the roof, I'm not sure how well it will flower or how it would look. Those flowers really need to hand to look their best. It is a vigorous grower. 2) The trumpet honeysuckles are perennial, and not as heavy as the wisteria. They also are quite vigorous. 3) Morning glories are annuals, and are prolific self seeders. I avoid plants that have a burning desire to get away from me, and this is one of them. They are beautiful though. Also since they are annuals of course your shed will be vineless during the winter; don't know whether this is an advantage or disadvantage to you. Others to consider are clematis, a flowering perennial vine which has a wide variety of cultivars. One I saw last year in person that I liked so much I'm going to grow it at my house was montana, which is covered with 3-4" 4-petaled pink blooms. Really pretty. Blooms as I recall once with gusto in the spring and again in the fall, not as profusely. In the interim, the vine is pretty on its own, IMO. Another vine I'm going to try this year is the hardy kiwi. This is a fuzzless version of the kiwi fruit, hardy to zone 4. I *love* kiwi fruit, but not peeling them, so this really intrigues me. The vine is supposed to have white fragrant blossoms in the spring. Don't know how long it takes for it to begin bearing fruit. How about climbing roses? There are a couple of climbers out there that are supposed to bloom from June til frost; Blaze is one I can think of. Hope this has helped, good luck! -- Lisa W. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:01:04 EST 1994 Article: 26604 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet From: white@eng.gtefsd.com (Lisa White) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: "not so mighty" Oak Date: 14 Feb 1994 18:12:54 GMT Organization: GTE Federal Systems Division, GSC Lines: 35 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2joev6$5s0@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> References: <2jlfp1$6l@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Reply-To: white@eng.gtefsd.com NNTP-Posting-Host: packard.eng.gtefsd.com In article 6l@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu, br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) writes: > > In a previous article, synic@MCS.COM (Kevin Conway) says: > > > > >This friend is an ameteur landscaper. He has planted (when?) some > >native white oaks in the Chicago area which are dying. Specifically, > >they are becoming chlorotic (sp?)[turning yellow]. His question is, > >are there any new strains of white oak (quercus alba) that can > >tolerate alkaline/dry soil? He is particularly interested in any new > >strains or remedial action for the existing trees. > > I'd suggest that he call an extension agent and find out --exactly-- what > is killing the trees. It may be air pollution, oak wilt, lack of iron > in the soil, alkaline soil, a lot of different things. Acidifying the > soil is fairly easy, so is providing iron--there are quite a few different > commerical products that will do it--Mir-Acid, for example, or any of > the preparations sold as azalea/rhododendron fertilizers. But I think > something else may be going on, possibly a disease or air pollution damage; > oak trees usually aren't fussy about soil conditions, unless the conditions > are so bad not much else will grow either. > > He needs to consult a local USDA office about this problem. > White oaks *hate* having their roots disturbed. They are rarely used as a landscaping plant for this reason. I have never seen anyone even try to raise them for land- scaping purposes (though this may also be because they grow so-o-o slo-o-owly). But for sure established (wild) ones hate being transplanted, and rarely (if ever) survive. If oak trees are wanted, pin oaks are much better, and I think burr oaks transplant okay too. Pin oaks take very well to their new homes when transplanted properly, and grow fairly quickly. -- Lisa W. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!iago.endicott.ibm.com!chrisw Fri Feb 18 17:01:05 EST 1994 Article: 26605 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!newsgate.watson.ibm.com!hawnews.watson.ibm.com!iago.endicott.ibm.com!chrisw From: chrisw@iago.endicott.ibm.com (Chris Wyse) Subject: Storing apple scions Sender: news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com (NNTP News Poster) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 18:04:56 GMT Lines: 6 Reply-To: chrisw@iago.endicott.ibm.com (Chris Wyse) Disclaimer: This posting represents the poster's views, not necessarily those of IBM. Nntp-Posting-Host: iago.endicott.ibm.com Organization: IBM Owego I recently purchased a bunch of apple scions. Now I have received them, but I'm not ready to graft yet. How should I store them in the meantime? Chris Wyse From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!acsu.buffalo.edu!ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu!v095hmq3 Fri Feb 18 17:01:05 EST 1994 Article: 26606 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!acsu.buffalo.edu!ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu!v095hmq3 From: v095hmq3@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu (Alice M. Bergmann) Subject: Seeds for Aruncus and hostas Message-ID: News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Sender: nntp@acsu.buffalo.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu Organization: University at Buffalo Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 20:14:00 GMT Lines: 9 Can anyone provide me with a source for seeds for any variety of Aruncus (goat's beard)and/or hostas. I know that at least aruncus can be started from seed (Rodale's Perrenials). I have tried J.L. Hudson Seedsman, but these two are not listed. Could you please reply by e-mail? Alice From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!uknet!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Fri Feb 18 17:01:06 EST 1994 Article: 26607 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!uknet!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: Question? Potatoes References: <1994Feb14.065648.22827@cobra.uni.edu> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 16 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 19:51:06 +0000 Message-ID: <761255466snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article <1994Feb14.065648.22827@cobra.uni.edu> westendorf@cobra.uni.edu writes: > I have alot of potatoes left from my garden last year, don't remember the > kind. Can I plant them this year and get a new crop of potatoes? > The potatoes are still firm and haven't been sprayed with a sprout > control product. Thanks > Mary You might well get a crop of some sort (over here, during the last war, people used to grow crops of potatoes just from the peelings!) but the chances are high that virus-borne diseases will have affected them - even if you can't see the signs yet. It's always better to start with fresh seed potatoes. -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Fri Feb 18 17:01:10 EST 1994 Article: 26608 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: lighting question Message-ID: <1994Feb14.123551.25667@walter.cray.com> Lines: 40 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <2jbb2k$a32@convex.convex.com> <1994Feb9.212801.13305@adobe.com> Date: 14 Feb 94 12:35:50 CST In article <1994Feb9.212801.13305@adobe.com>, kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) writes: |> In article <2jbb2k$a32@convex.convex.com> brohard@convex.com (James Brohard) writes: |> > |> > I am currently using fluorescent lighting to start my seeds for the |> >garden and was wondering, is there a general rule of how much light |> >is needed for good success? Currently I have 2 bulb 2-foot light fixtures |> >over the plant trays for a total of 40 watts for each level of plant trays. |> > |> > Because of the stories on the net where people are talking about the |> >sprouts falling over due to lack of light, I'm thinking of adding another |> >2 bulbs for a total of 4 or 80 watts over each level of trays, but need to |> >know if it's really necessary. |> |> |> I start tomato seedlings under just such a setup, and even when the |> seedlings are extremely close (one-half inch) to the bulbs, this is not |> enough light to keep them from getting a bit spindly. I'm planning on |> building a three bulb setup this weekend and seeing if that helps, as |> well as trying the bit about surrounding the area with aluminum foil |> covered cardboard to reflect light. |> |> -- |> Karen Kolling kolling@adobe.com |> |> ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ Cool temperatures (65-70) in the plant room also help reduce spindliness. Another trick is to shake the plants or put them in a stream of air from a fan to increas mechanical stress on the stems. Small amounts of mechanical stress make a big difference in how a plant develops; in the absence of any stress, many species will be more spinely and flabby than normal even in normal light. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!network.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!biivax.dp.beckman.com!falstaff.css.beckman.com!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:01:11 EST 1994 Article: 26609 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!network.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!biivax.dp.beckman.com!falstaff.css.beckman.com!not-for-mail Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey Message-ID: <2josf2$t5@falstaff.css.beckman.com> From: heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com (Matt Heffron) Date: 14 Feb 1994 14:03:14 -0800 Reply-To: heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com References: <36.4859.2552.0N41F729@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Distribution: world Organization: Scientific Services, Beckman Instruments, Inc. NNTP-Posting-Host: falstaff.css.beckman.com Lines: 61 In <36.4859.2552.0N41F729@gcbb.granite.mn.org> jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) writes: >Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey >Over watering lawns to the point that water runs down the curb *really* >bothers me. Are there any hints/tricks for watering the lawn enough (deeply) when it is on a slope so that the water can soak in vs. run off. I've probably got lawn on subsoil, or at least pretty lousy topsoil (clay + decomposed granite). Right now I'm watering 5 minutes x 2 times a day (let the first soak in before adding more water) x twice per week (it's "sort of" a Southern California winter). >Automatic sprinklers that run mindlessly whether it is sunny or raining >drive me crazy. "Half circle" sprinklers that spray 190+ degree arc. Put them next to the sidewalk and you still waste water! AAAAAAAARRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!! >Fat bags of grass clippings at the curb..... Well, you know what I >think about that! Unless they are going to a municipal composting site. Having to pay the city to pick up the "Clean Green" (compostables), and then having to pay again to get the compost (it's not even cheap). (Is this typical for municipal composting programs???) >And the builders! WHy to they believe that an un-landscaped lawn is >their private demolition site? The concrete companies regularly dump >their "extra" in the corner. Bricks, debris, concrete blocks are often >put in a hole on site and covered. Years later John and Jane Q Public >wonder why things won't grow there. AMEN! Right in the perfect place for the vegetable garden. (Makes it hard to rototill in all that good compost.) They don't even bury it very deep, I've found more than my share of 8d and 16d nails (some still on the nail gun strips). >That's enough for now, but I could think of more. Trees too close to >the foundation, lousy drainage also come to mind. Boy am I glad I don't ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ landscaping with drainage TOWARD the house. Very bad in heavy rains like So. Cal. last winter (92-93) :-( (I know! Nothing compared to the midwest flooding, but still heavy for us.) >do retail soil work any more! >Jim McNelly~~~ >Granite Information Service 612-654-8372-HST 656-0678 v.32bis >jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org >--- > * February 11th - IF STONE(ROTATION) > 1 THEN MOSS(PROPAGATION) = 0 -----------------------------------------------------^^^^^^^^^^^ Shouldn't it be 'ACCUMULATION' :-) Matt -- Matt Heffron heffron@falstaff.css.beckman.com Beckman Instruments, Inc. voice: (714) 961-3128 2500 N. Harbor Blvd. MS X-10, Fullerton, CA 92634-3100 I don't speak for Beckman Instruments unless they say so. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!jsbus Fri Feb 18 17:01:12 EST 1994 Article: 26610 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!jsbus From: jsbus@netcom.com (JSB Corp) Subject: Re: Building a waterfall in garden Message-ID: Reply-To: tomwa@jsbus.com Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) References: <1994Feb10.092339.2777@rivers> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 00:16:09 GMT Lines: 24 aff_rao@rivers.acc.uwrf.edu (Anand Rao, Univ. of Wisconsin-River Falls) writes: >Hi Folks: >I was wondering how to build a miniature water falls and a small >pond in my garden. I've observed some mini waterfalls in malls >and stores... some seem to be made of real granite and some have >synthetic material.. would anybody have any ideas on how to make >these synthetic rocks that look like the real ones? >Any suggestions on building a small pond will be appreciated too! Well, you could use real ones! The trick is to have some sort of waterproff material under the pond/waterfal. A waterbed linner, or several layers of plastic will do the trick. Cement alone probably woin't. I've been there. Get a recirculating pump from the local hardware store for $35-$100 depending on the length of the run, collect or buy some rocks and cement, put on your grungy clothes and have fun! -Tom tomwa@jsbus.com >Thanks From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!news.clark.net!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:01:13 EST 1994 Article: 26611 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!news.clark.net!not-for-mail From: jcp@clark.net (Jody C. Patilla) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Climbing Plants Date: 14 Feb 1994 20:01:08 -0500 Organization: Fluffy Otter Kindercare Lines: 19 Message-ID: <2jp6sk$9fh@explorer.clark.net> References: <103714@cup.portal.com> <2joecf$5s0@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: explorer.clark.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In article <2joecf$5s0@europa.eng.gtefsd.com>, Lisa White wrote: >Hi Mike, >I know a bit about each of these that might sway you one way or the other. >1) Wisteria is a *very* heavy vine, and puts a lot of stress on the structure >holding it up. The structure really must be up to handling some serious weight Wisteria also has roots from hell. Or maybe roots *to* hell, not sure which. Like willows, they seem to seek water. If you ever get tired of it and try to rip it out, you will up-end your tractor (yes, your corn-plantin' sized John Deere) before you get that root out of the ground. Don't get me wrong, I love wisteria but it is a real pain in the butt. -- jcpatilla jcp@clark.net "Fling your beavers aloft!" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Fri Feb 18 17:01:14 EST 1994 Article: 26612 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Transplanting people... Message-ID: <1994Feb15.004019.19050@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <19940206.23470855.katew@delphi.com> <1994Feb7.185626.9894@brtph560.bnr.ca> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 00:40:19 GMT Lines: 17 In article <1994Feb7.185626.9894@brtph560.bnr.ca> chriswil@brtph7f4.bnr.ca (Chris Williams) writes: >By the way, pecan is pronounced pee-can, not pa-con like those Northerners insist. >If you -really- want to blend in, use the right pronunciation. This advice from >someone born and raised in the South. Whoa! I was born and raised in the South (Houston, Texas), and we sure didn't call pecans 'pee cans'. My grandmother had a yard full of the yummy critters, called 'pe-CAHNZ'. Fortunately, my mother still sends me care packages of southern pecans now that I live in California. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Fri Feb 18 17:01:15 EST 1994 Article: 26613 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Suggestions for climbing rose Message-ID: <1994Feb15.010645.19931@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <9FEB94.14552950@shrsys.hslc.org> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 01:06:45 GMT Lines: 30 In article <9FEB94.14552950@shrsys.hslc.org> carlson@shrsys.hslc.org writes: > >Many thanks to those of you who recommended a source for the sweetbriar. >My request for a catalog is in the mail. Now I'm thinking of adding a >climbing rose to my colelction and I'm not sure which one I want. I'm >hoping you rose lovers out there can make some suggestions. I have a >small garden shed (really a child's playhouse with window boxes and a >dutch door) around which I have planted a cottage garden. I think >having a rose climbing across the roof would add a nice touch. I'm >partial to the fragrance and appearance of the old roses, and repeat- >flowering would be nice but isn't necessary. I live in Central PA, >zone 6 (by the way, we had another snow-sleet-ice storm yesterday-- >another 5 inches of mess). Does anyone have any suggestions for a >suitable fragrant climber? New Dawn is tried and true; repeat flowering, old-fashioned, fragrant. Mme Gregoire Staechelin is gorgeous (bigger flowers than New Dawn) but blooms only once. Climbing Cecile Brunner might be good for your situation--it has small but lovely flowers and gets quite large. It blooms once but has sporadic blossoms during the summer. I'm trying a Climbing Old Blush for the first time this year. Cross your fingers--I want just about what you described, and that's what COB is supposed to be. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!gwen Fri Feb 18 17:01:16 EST 1994 Article: 26614 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!network.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!gwen From: gwen@class.class.org (Gwen Dandridge) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! New home need advice on flowers Date: 15 Feb 1994 01:25:12 GMT Organization: CLASS.ORG Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jp89p$pfm@news.cerf.net> References: <8FEB199415080535@vstn1.math.uoknor.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: class.class.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] stephanie (smudd@vstn1.math.uoknor.edu) wrote: : My husband and I recently purchased a home. Until now we have lived in : apartments and haven't had to worry about a yard. I am wanting to plant : several different kinds of flowers, especially elephant ears and rose bushes. : I don't know when the best time is to plant these two specific flowers and was : wanting any and all advice. What plants and flowers are easy to take care of? : I am really excited about doing this, but I have no idea where to start. : Thank you! : Stephanie : smudd@nsfuvax.math.uoknor.edu Antique roses are lovely. Try Sombreiue (I can't spell it), but it's a climbing white rose with a lovely smell and very healthy. Where do you live, norway? There are some roses that work in northern climates if you write to me Gwen@class.ord I will get the list of roses for your area. Some of the English roses are wonderful, The Prince, Wenlock, Wife of Bath, etc. They all have a grace and form not found in the hybrid teas. They also usually smell wonderful and are very healthy. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!yuma!ront Fri Feb 18 17:01:17 EST 1994 Article: 26615 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!yuma!ront From: ront@picea.CFNR.ColoState.EDU (Ronald Thomas) Subject: LLAMA MANURE Message-ID: <1994Feb15.021850.96902@yuma> Date: 15 Feb 94 02:18:50 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: niwot.cfnr.colostate.edu Organization: College of Natural Resources, Colo. State Univ. Lines: 19 I need some advice about using llama manure in my garden. I have a friend who raises llamas and in her efforts to manage her manure she has offered some to me. She claims that "llama beans" can be applied directly to the garden without burning the crops, even when the dung is fairly fresh. I've used horse and dairy manure in the past, but I added it to my compost with plant waste, etc. Despite my friend's faith in the harmlessness of her llama manure, I'm currently composting what she has given me. I have access to lots of free manure from her, but I'd like to know what I'm getting. I have a couple of books that describe the nutrient levels of several animal manures, but not llama. Does anyone have any facts about and/or experience with the droppings of this ruminant that they can share with me? Looking forward to your reply here in cold, windy zone 4, Colorado. Heidi (ront@niwot.cfnr.colostate.edu) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!71550.3411@CompuServe.COM Fri Feb 18 17:01:18 EST 1994 Article: 26616 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!71550.3411@CompuServe.COM From: Conrad Richter <71550.3411@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Richters Herb Catalogue by Email Message-ID: <940215035942_71550.3411_FHG113-1@CompuServe.COM> Sender: daemon@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu (Usenet Server Daemon) Organization: Indiana University Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 03:59:43 GMT Lines: 20 It has been mentioned several times in this newsgroup that the Richters herb catalogue (100 pages, colour, 700+ herbs) can be ordered by email. Please note that the email address that was given in the past is no longer functioning. All catalogue requests and queries about herbs should be directed to: 71550.3411@compuserve.com This is Richters' email address effective immediately. Thank you. Conrad Richter Richters Goodwood, ON L0C 1A0 Canada From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!lkinard Fri Feb 18 17:01:19 EST 1994 Article: 26617 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!lkinard From: lkinard@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Lyric Kinard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Interplanting Questions Message-ID: <6eaRHc6w165w@salzo.Cary.NC.US> Date: Mon, 14 Feb 94 16:19:28 EST References: <2jm9as$fan@nwfocus.wa.com> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 18 loofah@halcyon.com (Kathryn L. Stein) writes: > I've seen references to a method of planting called interplanting and > would be interested in any literature that will tell me What to plant > with What. So far all I've seen are articles that discuss the method, > but don't give any real useful data. > > Maybe a FAQ would be a nice addition? :-) > > Thanks. > > Louise Riotte has three books out on companion planting that I really enjoy. Carrots Love Tomatoes Roses love Garlic (I can't remember the third title) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson Fri Feb 18 17:01:22 EST 1994 Article: 26618 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: unicorn plants again Message-ID: <40.2d5f2ddc@axolotl> Date: 13 Feb 94 14:20:46 CST Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City Sender: news@axolotl.omahug.org (UUscan 1.10) Followup-To: rec.gardens Lines: 54 Jeff.Welch@launchpad.unc.edu (jeffrey eugene welch) writes: > I apoligize if people have seen this before, but I'm still finding > my way around this posting system. Has anyone seen a source for the > unicorn plant (Ibicella or Martynia or Proboscidea)? I'm specifically > interested in Ibicella (Martynia) lutea, one with yellow flowers. Any > help would be appreciated. There are sources for Proboscidea parviflora. Besides being called unicorn plant, it's also called Devil's Claw. The _Garden Seed Inventory, Third Edition_ by Kent Whealy (ISBN 0-9613977-9-9) describes this plant as follows. "Proboscidea parviflora, low spreading annual up to 3 ft. [1 meter] tall and wide, abundant foliage and large orchid-like blooms, unique decorative seed pods can be eaten when young or pickled like cucumbers, edible seeds, dried black claws (seed pods) are split and woven to make the black designs on Pima and Papago baskets. Some mail-order seed sources are: SEEDS OF CHANGE [CAT - $5] 621 Old Santa Fe Trail #10 Santa Fe, NM 87501 ---------- REDWOOD CITY SEED CO. [CAT - $1] P.O. Box 361 Redwood City, CA 94064 ---------- PLANTS OF THE SOUTHWEST [CAT - $2.50] 930 Baca St. Santa Fe, NM 87501 ---------- NATIVE SEEDS/SEARCH [CAT - $1] 2509 N. Campbell Ave. #325 Tucson, AZ 85719 ---------- I did find 4 non-commercial sources for Ibicella lutea in _CORNUCOPIA: A Source Book of Edible Plants_ by Stephen Facciola (ISBN 0-9628087-0-9). However, 2 are in Germany, 1 is in Portugal and the remaining source is in Poland. If you still want these addresses, notify me via email & I'll send them to you. *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-* Bob Batson bob.batson@p3.f322.n280.z1.fidonet.org | Primary address bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org | Backup address ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Under the most controlled conditions, the experimental apparatus will do exactly as it pleases. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!sfisher Fri Feb 18 17:01:24 EST 1994 Article: 26619 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 01:22:28 GMT Lines: 35 Most of my gardening efforts since September have focused on the elementary school my 6yo daughter is now attending. I met a few other gardening moms, and we have a terrific vegetable garden set up, a native plant area, and a brand new wildflower/butterfly garden set up. Since my own girl is attending kindergarten, in addition to all the other garden chores I seem to have volunteered myself for, I set up a project for the little kids, starting sweetpeas in little milk cartons, for transplantation adjacent to a chain link fence that surrounds the kindergarten yard. The week before last, I took several of the kids out in groups of three, and we transplanted their little plants. Three days later, the sprouts are eaten down to nubs. I suspect snails, and the row of peas is inches away from an area covered with miscellaneous groundcover, ivy and such. Last week rain kept us from finishing the planting, but rest of the plants are really ready to go. I worry about another snail invasion, and have gotten as many plastic soda bottles as I've been hoarding ready to cover the transplants. I really don't have enough. One of the teachers wants me to bait the area, I'm resistant to this idea because of the proximity to kids, their pets, the wildflower area, and the idea of pesticides in general. I heard that scyamore bolls can form an effective snail barrier, is this true? I could certainly snag a couple of kids to collect them, there are trees with these nearby, and we could prop them up around the plants. I've described our project at length to exact pity for my plight. Any non-toxic remedies would be appreciated. Beer traps are out, as the teachers feel this would be worse than the chemicals. Sort of wierd to me, but I can see the point here, there's probably some ordinance against alcohol on the school premises. A generation of future gardeners thank you! --Kim Fisher From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!widener!netnews.upenn.edu!msuinfo!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!yuthas Fri Feb 18 17:01:25 EST 1994 Article: 26620 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!widener!netnews.upenn.edu!msuinfo!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!yuthas From: yuthas@cc.umanitoba.ca (Trin Yuthasastrackosol) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: FAQ for rec.gardens available? Date: 15 Feb 1994 04:53:49 GMT Organization: University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada Lines: 18 Message-ID: <2jpkgt$165@canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: kirk.cc.umanitoba.ca I am new to this newsgroup and gardening in general and didn't see any FAQ postings. Are there any FAQ's available for FTP? Is there one posted periodically to this group? Also, while I am on the subject of FAQ's, how can I determine how much water a plant requires and when watering is necessary? I mean, obviously it would depend on the size of the plant, the species of the plant (cactii would require less water than say, a fern of the same size..right? or am I wrong on this?) but is there some "rule of thumb" that I can follow? Is there a more scientific way to determine if a plant is being overwatered or underwatered? e.g., microscopic examination of the leaves, roots and stalk? determination of moisture content in the soil? (these are all haphazard guesses by the way :-) ). Thanks in advance! -- Trin Dominic Yuthasastrakosol | Definition: Bigot (noun). Someone Dept. Pharmacology and Therapeutics | who zealously holds a set of ideas, University of Manitoba | beliefs or opinions which are A5002MbChip1MbFastSupraturbo28GVPII354Mb| different from yours. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:01:26 EST 1994 Article: 26621 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 14 Feb 94 17:07 PST Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Message-ID: <1453300477@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 6 Adam, will you be posting a note about rec.bees or whatever here in rec. gardens when the conf starts up? Libby ps Thanks again. The infor you sent was terrific. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:01:29 EST 1994 Article: 26622 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 14 Feb 94 17:15 PST Subject: Re: test(& 6 more weeks til spring) Message-ID: <1453300478@cdp> References: <1994Feb10.173647.17822@cmhcsys.c> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 5 Actally, the guys with the top hats and all the media in Punxatawney had spot lights all over Phil's den. He couldn't help but see his shadow, and he was so mad he poured snow and ice all over the state. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:01:30 EST 1994 Article: 26623 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 14 Feb 94 17:20 PST Subject: Re: RFD: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Message-ID: <1453300479@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 6 Something on beekeeping would bee excellent. Rec.bees would be easier to type. Seriously, even tho I've finished the famous article it would be good to have a regular source of info. I might finally get the beekeeper of our community garden to log onto the net if I could tempt him with such a forum. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:01:31 EST 1994 Article: 26624 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 14 Feb 94 17:25 PST Subject: Re: Apple Tree Help? Message-ID: <1453300480@cdp> References: <1994Feb10.120637.1072@b17news.b1> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 10 Sounds as though you are going to have to have a spray program of some sort. For good info contact your county Cooperative Extension office...probably listed in the phone book under the name of the Land Grant Univ in your state. It would also be a good idea to thin the fruit. After some of the apples drop off the tree in early summer, known in these parts as June drop, remove enough fruit to leave 3-6in between the fruit left on the branch. The bigger the space, the larger will be the mature apples. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:01:31 EST 1994 Article: 26625 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 14 Feb 94 17:40 PST Subject: Re: Removing Ice from Shrubs? Message-ID: <1453300483@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 10 The standard advice around here (Philly zone 7) is to leave the ice ALONE! Trying to remove it will just damage the wood and leave all sorts of places for pests to get in. Snow, on the other hand, should be gently brushed off the branches...a broom will to the job...before it can turn to ice. Some winter so far, huh? Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:01:32 EST 1994 Article: 26626 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 14 Feb 94 17:30 PST Subject: Re: A Non-composting Question Message-ID: <1453300481@cdp> References: <94043.133941VPN1@psuvm.psu.edu> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 11 Plastic or just newspapers will do it, but what we always did was remove the sod and turn it upside down on the proposed garden spot making sure the roots were not in contact with the soil so they couldn't get started again. Or you can remove the sod and pile it, roots up, somewhere to rot down on its own. If you use the upside down on the garden site method, let the sod dry some and break it up from time to time. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Fri Feb 18 17:01:33 EST 1994 Article: 26627 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 14 Feb 94 17:35 PST Subject: Re: lighting question Message-ID: <1453300482@cdp> References: <2jbb2k$a32@convex.convex.com> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 6 I, too, use the 2 bulb set u with no problem, but I keep the seedlings .5-1" below the lights. It really helps to keep them cool. Istart the seeds at about 70 F, but as soon as they germinate, I move them under the lights and keep the soil temp at about 50F Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:01:34 EST 1994 Article: 26628 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!usenet From: Bob Klebba Subject: Signs of spring Message-ID: <1994Feb14.231456.11664@nicmad.uucp> X-Xxdate: Mon, 14 Feb 94 17: 20:03 GMT Sender: usenet@nicmad.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: mac1_37 Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d24 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 23:14:56 GMT Lines: 12 Here in the frozen wasteland of Wisconsin, I saw my first sign of spring yesterday. About 2% of the branches on an American elm tree were in full flower! I don't know who's out pollinating at this time of year, but the flowers were indeed there. I've been checking the silver maples, but I've not seen any flowers on them yet. . . . (Californians need'nt reply) Robert Klebba USDA zone 4 Nicolet Instrument Corp. Madison, WI, USA "Submit to Barney" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:01:35 EST 1994 Article: 26629 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!usenet From: Bob Klebba Subject: Re: "not so mighty" Oak Message-ID: <1994Feb14.233514.12638@nicmad.uucp> X-Xxdate: Mon, 14 Feb 94 17: 40:21 GMT Sender: usenet@nicmad.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: mac1_37 Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d24 References: <2jj8hu$rhs@Mercury.mcs.com> Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 23:35:14 GMT Lines: 25 In article <2jj8hu$rhs@Mercury.mcs.com> Kevin Conway, synic@MCS.COM writes: >This friend is an ameteur landscaper. He has planted (when?) some >native white oaks in the Chicago area which are dying. Specifically, >they are becoming chlorotic (sp?)[turning yellow]. His question is, >are there any new strains of white oak (quercus alba) that can >tolerate alkaline/dry soil? He is particularly interested in any new >strains or remedial action for the existing trees. White oaks grow on limestone bedrock up here, so I don't think it's the soil pH or soil moisture. There are two problems I might suggest investigating: - white oaks don't transplant well. Try planting acorns (seriously) - oak wilt has infected the trees. This is the worse of the two, since oak wilt may have infected surrounding white oaks. If it is oak wilt, the trees will have to go. Try planting Bur Oaks (Q. macrocarpa). They are native to this area and are resistant to oak wilt. They won't tollerate any shade though. Pin oaks can be transplanted, but don't like high pH. Robert Klebba USDA zone 4 Nicolet Instrument Corp. Madison, WI, USA "Submit to Barney" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:01:36 EST 1994 Article: 26630 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!astroatc!nicmad!usenet From: Bob Klebba Subject: Re: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advice needed Message-ID: <1994Feb14.233859.12778@nicmad.uucp> X-Xxdate: Mon, 14 Feb 94 17: 44:07 GMT Sender: usenet@nicmad.uucp Nntp-Posting-Host: mac1_37 Organization: Nicolet Instrument Corporation X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d24 References: <2jhcah$eh8@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 23:38:59 GMT Lines: 11 In article Garry Williams, gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US writes: >I'd like to suggest that you consider the merits of a raised bed. The problem with clay is drainage. Raised beds will give you the highest improvement/effort ratio. Robert Klebba USDA zone 4 Nicolet Instrument Corp. Madison, WI, USA "Submit to Barney" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!jmcnult Fri Feb 18 17:01:37 EST 1994 Article: 26631 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!jmcnult From: jmcnult@orion.it.luc.edu (John A. Mcnulty) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Horse manure: toxic waste! Date: 15 Feb 1994 14:06:02 GMT Organization: Loyola University of Chicago Lines: 20 Message-ID: <2jqksa$cp5@apollo.it.luc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: orion.it.luc.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] I just read over in rec.equestrian that the California Environmental Protection Agency is trying to pass legislation declaring horse manure a "toxic substance" and horses "non-point source pollutants". Needless to say, this has nasty repercussions for horse owners (bagging waste and sending it to special disposal facilities). By the way, anyone looking for compost ought to ask a local riding facility. Ours has a huge mountain of manure, many years old (I know, probably not properly composted and probably polluting the railroad switching yard down the hill). They gladly give the stuff away. I know it doesn't smell because I found my 8-year old son playing in it once, fascinated by how warm and steamy it was on a cold fall day. As far as fresh manure burning crops, I saw a guy on Long Island use it right from the horse, practically. He had lots of room in his garden (I'm so jealous!) so he had very widely spaced rows of plants, with the manure in the center of the rows (probably keeps down weeds, too). Patty, not John From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:01:38 EST 1994 Article: 26632 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!not-for-mail From: hoang@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu (Lap Hoang) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: African Hot Pepper Date: 15 Feb 1994 09:50:25 -0500 Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jqnfh$iu3@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet3.scri.fsu.edu A friend of mine gave me a hot pepper with a name African Hot. It is shaped like a habanero, but when it is young, its color is light green, when it is mature, it is bright red (bordeaux). The skin has a peculiar smell to it, and it is not too hot (I would rate it 6 out of ten scale), but the seeds are as hot as the habanero (10 out of 10). Does anyone know the real name of this? Thanks Lap Hoang, Tallahassee, Florida, USA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah238 Fri Feb 18 17:01:39 EST 1994 Article: 26633 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah238 From: ah238@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Joseph Zupko) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Horse manure: toxic waste! Date: 15 Feb 1994 15:52:52 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 6 Message-ID: <2jqr4l$j0f@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: eeyore.ins.cwru.edu I was told that horse manureshould be in the compost pile for a year because the urine other substance that the stables use to wash the floors may be still in the manure. -- We can not have a cafeteria type democracy(freedom). From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!leo!bhaile Fri Feb 18 17:01:40 EST 1994 Article: 26634 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!leo!bhaile From: bhaile@leo.vsla.edu (Bess Haile) Subject: Re: Square foot gardening Message-ID: <1994Feb15.144709.20973@leo.vsla.edu> Organization: Virginia State Library References: <2joasa$46q@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 14:47:09 GMT Lines: 6 If I could have only one book in my library's gardening section this is the one I'd buy. The description on plant spacing is wonderful, it has one of the clearest explanation on soil building, and it is a good book for encouraging the garden fearful. The basic principals hold true, even if one doesn't want to garden in 4ft squares. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!pacs.sunbelt.net!lynx.unm.edu!dns1.NMSU.Edu!lbrown Fri Feb 18 17:01:42 EST 1994 Article: 26635 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!pacs.sunbelt.net!lynx.unm.edu!dns1.NMSU.Edu!lbrown Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Square foot gardening Message-ID: <2jqq0eINNmn8@dns1.NMSU.Edu> From: lbrown@opus.nmsu.edu (BROWN) Date: 15 Feb 1994 15:33:34 GMT References: <1994Feb13.150816.22601@es.dupont.com> Organization: NMSU NNTP-Posting-Host: dante.nmsu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Lines: 38 reynolse@esvx17.es.dupont.com wrote: : I am reading Mel Bartholamew's(?) "Square Foot Gardening". I would : appreciate any comments pro/con. or any tips for a rookie. : Regards, : Steve We used that method last year and will be using it again. The problems we found: Here in the desert the watering methods in the book just didn't work. We had to use the hose and put water on the garden a lot more often than Bartholomew suggests, however it was a lot less water than a more traditional garden would have used. Our growing season is longer than his so our plants got bigger than we had planned for. The peppers especially, were larger than we had allowed space for. The tomato plants were a lot larger, too. Corn just didn't work out. Benefits. In 8 squares we manages to grown enough veggies for 4 people. We did grow squash outside the blocks but that's OK. We used less water and other resources than traditional methods require. Our landlord thought our garden was beautiful so didn't hassle us about digging up the yard. (which wasn't in great shape anyway) AND (best of all) We have had lettuce, radishes, greens all winter. - That's the weather, not the method but we probably would not have planted the late season stuff in a more traditional garden. Good gardening! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!othello.ucdavis.edu!ez042951 Fri Feb 18 17:01:42 EST 1994 Article: 26636 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!othello.ucdavis.edu!ez042951 From: ez042951@othello.ucdavis.edu (Chris Haskell) Subject: Re: flys and dirt Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Guru) Organization: University of California, Davis X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <2j88l3$qfs@apakabar.cc.columbia.> <1453300469@cdp> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 16:15:01 GMT Lines: 9 Libby Goldstein (libby@igc.apc.org) wrote: : They're probably springtails. They won't do too much harm. Mostly they feed on : organic matter in your potting mix. How do you tell the difference (if there is one) between springtails and fungus gnats? My understanding is that f.g. can be detrimental to the root system of a plant. Chris From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!rbuck Fri Feb 18 17:01:44 EST 1994 Article: 26637 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!rbuck From: rbuck@netnews.upenn.edu (Rebecca Buck) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mesembryanthemum Advice needed Date: 15 Feb 1994 16:31:37 GMT Organization: University of Pennsylvania Lines: 6 Message-ID: <2jqtda$cuk@netnews.upenn.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ccat.sas.upenn.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] I've been trying to start some lithops et. al from seed without knowing the precise conditions they need. Any advice would be appreciated! Rebecca Buck rbuck@ccat.sas.upenn.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!emilys Fri Feb 18 17:01:45 EST 1994 Article: 26638 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!emilys From: emilys@brtph7cc.bnr.ca (Emily Smith) Subject: Re: Mellingers? Sender: news@brtph560.bnr.ca (Usenet News) Message-ID: <1994Feb15.172921.8289@brtph560.bnr.ca> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 17:29:21 GMT References: <1994Feb3.142252.7829@brtph560.bnr.ca> <2itkmlINN4k0@talos4.sps.mot.com> <1343@smith.chi.il.us> Organization: Bell-Northern Research, RTP, NC Lines: 29 In article <1343@smith.chi.il.us>, L.A.Z. Smith wrote: >Well, I'm in Chicago, which is pretty similar, climate-wise, to Ohio, so >that may be why I've had better luck. The original poster seems to be in >Canada; I don't know how much customs slows things down, but Melliger's >guarantee at least gives you a chance to get replacements if things don't >work out. Actually, I'm from N.C. (zone 7). Thanks for your comments, Leah, and all the others who responded with both good and bad experiences with Mellinger's. I received a fairly mixed review, with most of the bad related to trees and most of the good related to smaller plants. I decided to go ahead and order the plants I'd planned on (including ferns, astilbes, and a couple of other woodland perennials). I'll post again with the successes/failures later. One thing that is definitely a pain about Mellinger's is their shipping being charged separately for plants and non-plants--and the fact that certain items are charged separately for shipping. Very confusing. I have no idea if I included the right amount! They refund any overage, but if you don't send enough, they send things COD, which is a pain for those of us who aren't home during the day. I tried to err on the side of sending too much rather than too little....hope I was successful! Emily ****************************************************************** * Emily Smith * Bell-Northern Research, Inc. * Opinions * * emilys@bnr.ca * Research Triangle Park, NC * are mine. * ****************************************************************** From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!rand.org!rand.org!Trink_Downes Fri Feb 18 17:01:46 EST 1994 Article: 26639 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!rand.org!rand.org!Trink_Downes From: Trink_Downes@rand.org (Trijntje (Trink) Downes) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: pruning trees Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 13:37:02 Organization: Rand Corp., Washington DC Lines: 24 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: downes.rand.org Keywords: pruning X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev Final Beta #9] Hi all, I have two large trees in my front yard that (a) need to be pruned, and (b) I have no intention of pruning myself. The first is a tall, fairly skinny Maple tree (sorry, don't know what sort of Maple) that clearly has been hacked up in the past (it has a major branch too close to the phone lines). Tall means about as tall as my two story house. The second tree is a Cedar (Deodar, I believe) that is taller than my second story. It is a bit too close to the house, and has branches resting on the roof and is getting intertwined with the main power lines (you see why I don't even want to think about touching these things myself). At any rate, I need to know what time of year to have these babies pruned, (I'm in northern Virginia - the top of Zone 7). I'm a bit leery of just getting a tree-person from the phone book and trusting everything they say (both timing and cost), so I appeal to net-wisdom and experience for a bit of advice. What time of year, and how much per tree (rough estimates welcome). Then I'll feel better about hiring someone. Many thanks!! Trink From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Fri Feb 18 17:01:47 EST 1994 Article: 26640 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Message-ID: <9402151551.AA00848@im9> Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey Date: Tue, 15 Feb 94 10:51:16 EST X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA23391; Tue, 15 Feb 94 10:55:14 -0800 X-Received: from IM.LCS.MIT.EDU by inet-gw-1.pa.dec.com (5.65/13Jan94) id AA08597; Tue, 15 Feb 94 07:49:10 -0800 X-Received: from im9 (IM9.LCS.MIT.EDU) by im (4.1/TOC-1.1S) id AA00810; Tue, 15 Feb 94 10:51:21 EST X-Received: by im9 (4.1/TOC-1.1C) id AA00848; Tue, 15 Feb 94 10:51:16 EST X-To: rec.gardens.usenet Lines: 33 Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey Bad taste: Those silouettes of fat women bending over. Ugh! Supposed to be cute, but I think they are demeaning. All bushes pruned to gumdrop shape. Booorrring. A house with a ruffle of too much foundation planting and NOTHING else on the 1/4-acre lot, not a tree, not a shrub, just barren lawn. I second all of Mr.Compost's suggestions. (Sorry, details deleted for brevity and my news poster). Good taste: Japanese gardens. Using native plants. Restrained use of lawns. Leave someplace for the wildlife, please. Hmmm. I see from my list and others' that bad taste is easier to describe than good. Thanks for suggesting this topic. It has been fun. --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Fri Feb 18 17:01:48 EST 1994 Article: 26641 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Message-ID: <9402151550.AA00842@im9> Subject: Re: bonsai seedlings Date: Tue, 15 Feb 94 10:50:21 EST X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA23429; Tue, 15 Feb 94 10:59:51 -0800 X-Received: from IM.LCS.MIT.EDU by inet-gw-1.pa.dec.com (5.65/13Jan94) id AA08562; Tue, 15 Feb 94 07:48:35 -0800 X-Received: from im9 (IM9.LCS.MIT.EDU) by im (4.1/TOC-1.1S) id AA00807; Tue, 15 Feb 94 10:50:26 EST X-Received: by im9 (4.1/TOC-1.1C) id AA00842; Tue, 15 Feb 94 10:50:21 EST X-To: rec.gardens.usenet Lines: 35 In article: <2jmqfk$df9@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> jlupson@uoguelph.ca (Janet Lupson) replies: -Ted Williamson (ah812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA) wrote: - -: Would anyone know where I could find seeds or seedlings for bonsai -: trees (especially Japanese varieties) in the Ottawa area? I want -: to start growing from scratch rather than buying a pre-shaped tree. -: I would really appreciate it if anyone could help me in my search. - -Dominion Seed House carries bonsai seeds for the following species: - Maidenhair tree (Ginkgo biloba) - 10 seeds for $3.25 (cat.#69-0115) - Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) - 10 seeds for $1.25 (cat.#69-0113) - Japanese Black Pine (Pinus thunbergii) - 10 seeds for $1.25 (cat.#69-0112) -You can order by FAX 1-800-567-4594 or phone (905-873-3037) or by mail to: - Dominion Seed House - Box 2500 - Georgetown, ON - Canada L7G 5L6 The bonsai group, rec.arts.bonsai, addresses this question regularly and in their FAQ. Accumulated wisdom is: Starting from seeds is very slow. The recommended way for a beginner to start is to buy a nursery-grown plant and 'sculpt' it (my word). You can often get misshapen or distressed shrubs inexpensively. Since the care of bonsai is difficult, most bonsai hobbyists kill a few plants before they get the hang of it, so it is best to start with inexpensive plants and practice on them. See you at rec.arts.bonsai? --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!pacs.sunbelt.net!lynx.unm.edu!Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu!rmilner Fri Feb 18 17:01:49 EST 1994 Article: 26642 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!pacs.sunbelt.net!lynx.unm.edu!Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu!rmilner Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: To plant or not to plant?! Message-ID: <1994Feb15.183400.18577@Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu> From: rmilner@Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu (Ruth Milner) Date: Tue, 15 Feb 94 18:34:00 GMT Reply-To: rmilner@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Ruth Milner) References: <1994Feb9.095419.2760@rivers> Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM Lines: 24 In article <1994Feb9.095419.2760@rivers> aff_rao@rivers.acc.uwrf.edu (Anand Rao, Univ. of Wisconsin-River Falls) writes: > >A friend of mine is building a home and will be moving in >sometime in early May. He was wondering if he should plant >perennials and other stuff as soon as he can (may/june) or wait >till Fall (Aug/Sep). I would recommend he wait, not because of planting time considerations, but to give himself a chance to learn about the lot: where the shadows fall at what time of day at what times of year, where he wants to put lawn and trees (assuming this is a new lot as well as a new house) and how the latter will ultimately affect the shade, the view from various windows of the house, and a myriad of other factors that will make a difference to landscaping plans. In reading books and magazines that profile beautiful gardens, one of the common themes I've found is careful study of the area before starting to plan, and then implementing the plan gradually rather than getting ambitious and trying to do it all at once. By doing things gradually you get a chance to find out what didn't work well and needs to be changed, before it's too late to do anything about it. Not to mention that building a new garden is a lot of work and it's nice to spread it over a few seasons. :-) -- Ruth Milner NRAO/VLA Socorro NM Manager of Computing Systems rmilner@aoc.nrao.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!pacs.sunbelt.net!lynx.unm.edu!Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu!rmilner Fri Feb 18 17:01:50 EST 1994 Article: 26643 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!pacs.sunbelt.net!lynx.unm.edu!Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu!rmilner Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: lighting question Message-ID: <1994Feb15.184955.18665@Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu> From: rmilner@Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu (Ruth Milner) Date: Tue, 15 Feb 94 18:49:55 GMT Reply-To: rmilner@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Ruth Milner) References: <2jbb2k$a32@convex.convex.com> Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM Lines: 14 In article <2jbb2k$a32@convex.convex.com> brohard@convex.com (James Brohard) writes: > Because of the stories on the net where people are talking about the >sprouts falling over due to lack of light, I'm thinking of adding another >2 bulbs for a total of 4 or 80 watts over each level of trays, but need to >know if it's really necessary. One of the things I do to increase the light my seedlings get is cover a piece of cardboard with tinfoil and prop it at the back of the tray. This reflects light onto them from the other side - not as strongly as they are getting from the front, but it makes a noticeable difference. They don't lean as much and they are less leggy than without it. -- Ruth Milner NRAO/VLA Socorro NM Manager of Computing Systems rmilner@aoc.nrao.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins Fri Feb 18 17:01:51 EST 1994 Article: 26644 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jhoskins From: jhoskins@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James M Hoskins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: pruning trees Date: 15 Feb 1994 19:11:23 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 30 Message-ID: <2jr6or$a4i@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: top.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Keywords: pruning In article , Trijntje (Trink) Downes wrote: >Hi all, Question about pruning two mature trees, a Cedar and a Maple. Let me, a non-expert, take the first pass at this one. The maple can probably be safely pruned anytime. The Cedar could be one of those rare trees (they exist) you can screw up by pruning at the wrong time. I'd call the Extension Office or do some digging at the library in regards to the Cedar. I've had some pruning done at my house, and a friend recently had a large tree and other tree work done at her place. Take the time to get at least 2, or 3, estimates, and request references. The estimates can vary widely, as can the expertise and commitment of the arborist. Look for certification from the ISA (International Society of Arborists [?]) or state trade-group certification; this will indicate your arborist is a professional and trained. Some pruners are literally artists in the way they approach their craft. Others have clients who need branches cleared away from roof lines, so they hack away as required. Guess on price: $400. Jim From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!doc.ic.ac.uk!aixssc.uk.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!sernews!news Fri Feb 18 17:01:52 EST 1994 Article: 26645 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!doc.ic.ac.uk!aixssc.uk.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!sernews!news From: SJGALLA@STEVEG.RALEIGH.IBM.COM Subject: Re: Square foot gardening Sender: news@sernews.raleigh.ibm.com Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 18:03:42 GMT Lines: 10 Reply-To: SGALLAGHER@RTP.VNET.IBM.COM References: <2joasa$46q@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> <1994Feb15.144709.20973@leo.vsla.edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: steveg.raleigh.ibm.com Organization: LAN Interconnect Product group, RTP NC X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.00 In <1994Feb15.144709.20973@leo.vsla.edu>, bhaile@leo.vsla.edu (Bess Haile) writes: >If I could have only one book in my library's gardening section >this is the one I'd buy. OK, ya sold me! :-) Now, does anyone know the ISBN#? Seriously, I want to pickup a copy. Steve Gallagher From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill Fri Feb 18 17:01:54 EST 1994 Article: 26646 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!gdwill From: gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advi Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Feb 94 10:52:22 EST References: <2jo61m$btl@engage.sps.mot.com> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 50 fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq Butt) writes: > In article <1453300474@cdp> Libby Goldstein writes: > >Rather than amend the whole bed, try amending each planting hole with organi > >materials, compost, coffee chaff, peat humus, manure or whatever you can fin > >most easily. > > > >Then mulch the bed with more organic matter: composted wood chips, wood chip > >mixed with manure or blood meal, salt hay, cocoa hulls (from Hershey's). In > >winter mulch the bed with Christmas greens and Christmas tree branches. > > > >Over time, as you amend, plant and mulch, you will improve the soil in the > >entire bed. > > > >Libby > > Other than aesthetics, I would probably agree here. Hybrid Tea roses, > for example, do not tend to have huge, long roots that would absolutely > demand a giant bed. It *is* possible to make a, say 3ft by 2ft hole, > amend the heck out of it and plant a rose which will do quite happily > for quite a long time in it. I know this because of the incredible > fun I have chipping away Texas limestone whenever I have to plant > anything! Think flint and pickaxes :-) ! The best solution I > I have found is to fill each hole with highly organic, well-draining > soil and plant away. > > fmb > -- > Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightes > relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please > notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely > UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. Gee, that standard disclaimer might come in handy about now...:) Roses do in fact have long feeder roots (they spread outwards and lie close to the surface, rather than growing down deep like the taproots of some plants) and accordingly, you will get much better results if you amend the whole bed rather than trying to take shortcuts. Digging holes in compacted clay and just amending the holes is really just like planting the roses in clay pots. They have this wonderful soil to grow in-for the space of about 12"-then they run into a brick wall (or at least it would be brick if it were just fired a bit better). I use this effect to advantage to contain my rugosas, which otherwise would spread like crazy. But for my hybrid teas, I work the _whole_ bed, not individual spots, and my roses are better for it. Garry Williams g.williams42@genie.geis.com RTC Coordinator, GEnie Garden RoundTable From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!lkinard Fri Feb 18 17:01:55 EST 1994 Article: 26647 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!lkinard From: lkinard@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Lyric Kinard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: pole bean supports Message-ID: <0ewsHc1w165w@salzo.Cary.NC.US> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 94 13:12:20 EST Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 8 Does anyone have great ideas for easy pole bean supports? I'm planning to put some beautiful scarlet runners and hyacinth bean vines in my garden which will be right out in fron t where the world (and the sun) can see them. Tipi's or trellises are fine but I don't know what to make them out of and as per usual in my case, cost is the most important factor! Thanks in advace! -Lyric From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!artc Fri Feb 18 17:01:56 EST 1994 Article: 26648 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!artc From: artc@world.std.com (Art Campbell) Subject: Procrastinator's bulb carry-over Message-ID: Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 19:34:01 GMT Lines: 16 A week or so ago, there was a thread about carrying unplanted bulbs that should have gone underground in the fall (but didn't) over . . . I believe the concensus was to plant them in the spring and hope for the best. But I wanted to ask if stashing them in a freezer over the summer and planting them this coming fall might not give better results? Any thoughts? Art -- Art Campbell artc@world.std.com 72227.1375@compuserve.com DoD 358 _Real_ BMWs have just two wheels. "... In my opinion, there's nothing in this world beats a '52 Vincent and a redheaded girl." -- Richard Thompson From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!ames!koriel!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!encinitas!jaya Fri Feb 18 17:01:57 EST 1994 Article: 26649 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!ames!koriel!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!encinitas!jaya From: jaya@encinitas.Eng.Sun.COM (Jaya Holla) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: BUILDING A WATERFALL Date: 15 Feb 1994 19:13:03 GMT Organization: Sun Lines: 21 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <1994Feb10.092339.2777@rivers> <60.20052.4198.0N194C2C@canrem.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: encinitas In article <60.20052.4198.0N194C2C@canrem.com> vello.tou@canrem.com (Vello Tou) writes: >In answer to Anand Rao re Building a Waterfall... > The second rule is to make sure that >the edge from where your waterfall starts is as perfectly level as can >be, with the lip being sharp and undercut because this will give you a >nice waterfall at minimum flow. This was done to Niagara Falls some >time back to get the maximum effect with the minimum flow of water This reminds me of the waterfall in the Hyatt Regency hotel in downtown San Francisco. I was amazed at the smoothness of water falling over the edge and first thought it was clear transparent plastic that had been stretched over the edge. I put my hand into the waterfall to convince myself that it was indeed water flowing over the smooth edge from one level to another! Jaya From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!paperboy.amoco.com!apctrc!msc.edu!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Fri Feb 18 17:01:57 EST 1994 Article: 26650 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!paperboy.amoco.com!apctrc!msc.edu!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: test(& 6 more weeks til spring) Message-ID: <1994Feb15.083644.11187@walter.cray.com> Lines: 33 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1994Feb2.202038.14452@gw.wmich.edu> <1994Feb3.205221.14482@gw.wmich.edu> <1994Feb10.173647.17822@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com> <2jo8ng$40e@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Date: 15 Feb 94 08:36:44 CST In article <2jo8ng$40e@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, wvhorn@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (William VanHorne) writes: |> In article , |> Mike Noeske x4143 wrote: |> |> >6 more weeks? The temp this last week was low 80's here in central |> >Fla. The sun was shining, trees are all budding, birds were singing and |> >the pine tree pollen is covering everything. I dont know if I can take |> >6 more weeks of this until spring arrives. |> > |> >Sorry, just rubbing it in......Mike |> |> Enjoy it while you can, monkey boy. Talk to me in July when central Fla. |> is nature's version of a Turkish Bath, the cockroaches are flying, the |> catfish are walking, the toads are climbing, and even the snakes come |> inside to cool off. |> |> And remember, "live" spelled backwards is "evil". |> |> ---Bill VanHorne |> The Washington DC area averages 79 degrees in July (mean high 89, mean low 69Central Florida averages 83 degrees in July (mean high 92 mean low 73). I don't feel like we are a whole lot better off. However we do have longer days which really help photosynthisis when temperatures are this high and we do have some hope of a few really gorgeous days in July from the one or two cool outbreaks the U.S sees each July. However I did find it a lot harder to grow tomatoes and sweetcorn after midsummer in Tallahassee than I did in Maryland; in Florida they just didn't seem to thrive after July 15. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!EU.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!ava.bcc.orst.edu!nessonm Fri Feb 18 17:01:58 EST 1994 Article: 26651 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!EU.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!ava.bcc.orst.edu!nessonm From: nessonm@ava.bcc.orst.edu (Mike Nesson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: re:horse manure Date: 15 Feb 1994 18:42:52 GMT Organization: Biological Computing Consortium, OSU Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jr53c$26q@gaia.ucs.orst.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ava.bcc.orst.edu There is a caveat with using horse manure that is very fresh. In my understanding, most horses these days are treated with the worming medicine called zimecterin. I think I've read, but I don't have a reference, that zimecterin is toxic not only to equine internal parasitic worms but also to earthworms, and that it passes through a horse with residual activity. Can someone dredge up a valid reference? Mike Nesson ----------------------------------------------- | Michael Nesson nessonm@bcc.orst.edu | | Dept. of Biochem/Biophys., Oregon State U. | | Corvallis, OR 97331-7305 | | (503)737-1866 FAX:(503)737-0481 | ----------------------------------------------- -- ----------------------------------------------- | Michael Nesson nessonm@bcc.orst.edu | | Dept. of Biochem/Biophys., Oregon State U. | | Corvallis, OR 97331-7305 | From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!news.cic.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:01:59 EST 1994 Article: 26652 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!news.cic.net!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!not-for-mail From: fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq Butt) Subject: Pruning Crapemyrtles... Message-ID: <2jr5oh$b4p@engage.sps.mot.com> Lines: 12 Sender: news@oakhill.sps.mot.com (oakhill news) Nntp-Posting-Host: engage Organization: Motorola RISC Software, Austin, Texas Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 18:54:09 GMT It's almost spring here and I am noticing commercial landscape companies are pruning the bejabbers out of the Crapemrytles that are planted at malls, roadsides etc. What's the deal ? Should I be following suit with mine ? fmb -- Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightest relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!hmiddlet Fri Feb 18 17:02:01 EST 1994 Article: 26653 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!hmiddlet From: hmiddlet@uoguelph.ca (Heather Middleton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey Date: 15 Feb 1994 20:39:57 GMT Organization: University of Guelph Lines: 31 Message-ID: <2jrbut$di8@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> References: <1994Feb8.005550.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: herman.cs.uoguelph.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] : 1. What is your definition of good taste? In my garden, I like to have lots of colour, light densities ( ie shady bushes and sunny areas, different shapes and plants+bushes that look really cool when they have snow all over them in the winter ( ie a garden with a look that can be enjoyed and explored in all the seasons.) : 2. What five things do you consider to be in very good taste in a garden I really like bushes since they attract birds to the backyard. A great vegetable garden. A compost pile ( the landfile doesn't need that organic material, but my veg garden does ). A flower garden that is planted with cutting flowers, to bring inside and brighten the house. Dandylions, Queen anne's lace and other weeds in the lawn or in garden areas that aren't in a high productive area (ie not in the veg garden). I like weeds since they also can form an alternative food crop to the veg or an important source of food for the animals ( ie thistles for birds ). And I also love BIG TREES! : 3. What five things do you consider to be in the worst taste? Lawns! Especially on spots of the property where people need to water the grass consantly in order for the lawn to grow ( just put drought tolerant plants there or rocks instead ). Lawns that have no weeds in them. Laws that are cut regularly ( our neighbour cuts her lawn every week until the end of October). I also don't like gardens or properties with no trees, since no trees usally leads to scorched lawns and then to excesive watering. I also don't like gardens that are covered in the same type of flower all over the neighbourhood. Does everybody beleive that the only thing to put in their gardens are impatients or petunias ? Sorry out there to the people who like to plant them. Heather Middleton Guelph, Ontario E-mail: hmiddlet@uoguelph.ca From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!hmiddlet Fri Feb 18 17:02:02 EST 1994 Article: 26654 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!hmiddlet From: hmiddlet@uoguelph.ca (Heather Middleton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Date: 15 Feb 1994 20:56:28 GMT Organization: University of Guelph Lines: 27 Message-ID: <2jrcts$di8@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: herman.cs.uoguelph.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Scott Fisher (sfisher@megatest.com) wrote: : I've described our project at length to exact pity for my plight. Any : non-toxic remedies would be appreciated. Beer traps are out, as the : teachers feel this would be worse than the chemicals. Sort of wierd to : me, but I can see the point here, there's probably some ordinance against : alcohol on the school premises. Last summer I had lots of problems with thoses mollucs too! Beer traps were the solution I used ( living in a house with lots of university students means that dribbles of beer was easily supplied ). But that became rather difficult to get after a while and the beer evaporated quickly due to the alcohol content in it ( I never made traps with covers over them, my mistake ). So I tried using yeast and a bit of sugar instead. The slugs or snail like the fermentation and the sweetness for some reason and climb right in and drown. They were not as good as the beer traps..but a small package of yeast from the store goes a long way. If alcohol is not premised on the school grounds...why not try using de-alcholised beer? I don't know if it has the same effect, but it's worth a try? Write to me and tell me the results then. Good luck to you and your students! Heather middleton Environmental Biology University of Guelph E-mail: hmiddlet@uoguelph.ca From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!waikato!canterbury.ac.nz!southpower.co.nz!ccc.govt.nz!andrew Fri Feb 18 17:02:02 EST 1994 Article: 26655 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!waikato!canterbury.ac.nz!southpower.co.nz!ccc.govt.nz!andrew Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Apple Tree Help? Message-ID: <1994Feb16.092903.2285@ccc.govt.nz> From: andrew@ccc.govt.nz (Andrew Groom) Date: 16 Feb 94 09:29:03 NZDT References: <1994Feb10.120637.1072@b17news.b17a.ingr.com> Organization: Christchurch City Council, New Zealand. Lines: 48 In article <1994Feb10.120637.1072@b17news.b17a.ingr.com>, tswacast@penguin.b17a.ingr.com (Tom Wacaster) writes: > I have recently purchased a house that comes complete with its own apple > tree. I'm not certain what type of apple tree it is. I'm wondering if > anyone out there has any general tips that I can use to care for the tree > to get the best yield. Last year I tried the patented Tom Wacaster > 'Let Nature Run Its Course' method, and was very disappointed with the > results. The apples were small and not at all attractive. Some even > appeared to be rotting on the branches. The tree produced SEVERAL > apples. So many that the lower branches nearly touched the ground. I'm also a fan of the Wacaster method, but also new to apple trees. There are a couple of things you need to do to ensure a better yield on your tree: 1. Prune it back severely. It sounds like it's been let go for a few years and needs a good prune. This will make the tree stronger and healthier in the long run. 2. When the fruit starts forming and is about golf ball size, start thinning it out to reduce the number of apples per cluster. This will ensure that the remaining fruit get more nutrients and are bigger and healthier as a result. Also another problem with apples is that they can get a mold or fungus growing on them, especially where two apples are touching each other. This mold ( or fungus - I forget ) breaks down the waxy coating on the fruit and allows boring insects ( one's that lead fairly dull lives :^) ) to dig into the fruit ( the insects can't get in otherwise ). If the developing fruit have more room between them, they are less likely to incure this problem. I have resisted the temptation to spray my tree this year. The fruit on it look mostly OK, but quite a few have been atacked by something (?). I may spray with something organic next year. With the thinning process, it's a toss up as to the right amount of thinning, but I'm working on it... Hope this helps. Cheers Andrew ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Andrew Groom Phone: (03) 3711 862 GIS Business analyst, MIS Fax: (03) 3711 789 Christchurch City Council Email: andrew@ccc.govt.nz P.O. Box 237, Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!destroyer!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!nstn.ns.ca!dal1!cmako Fri Feb 18 17:02:03 EST 1994 Article: 26656 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!destroyer!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!nstn.ns.ca!dal1!cmako From: cmako@ac.dal.ca Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RE:compost "BARRELS" Message-ID: <1994Feb15.151202.20796@dal1> Date: 15 Feb 94 15:12:01 -0400 Organization: Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada Lines: 2 jim, why don,t you use chicken wire to make a round barrel for your compost . From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth Fri Feb 18 17:02:04 EST 1994 Article: 26657 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth From: ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) Subject: Re: Composting Newspaper? Message-ID: Sender: news@cs.cmu.edu (Usenet News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: organ.music.cs.cmu.edu Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon References: <36.4736.2552.0N41F57B@gcbb.granite.mn.org> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 20:47:29 GMT Lines: 32 Dear Mr. Compost: For five years now I have been composting with 1" chicken wire. But one of my neighbors, now deceased (I really liked him and I had nothing to do with it) used to complain, and make up stories about rats because he hated my pile. Now some new people have moved into his house, and I would like to forestall any complaints and/or legal problems. So I am thinking of doing the unthinkable and spending money on a composter. The Soilsaver seems good, and would solve the aesthetic and rodential problems that allegedly surrounded my compost pile. Is this a waste of money? Is there a better and cheapter composter available that still hides the rotting matter and guarantees a rodent-free heap? (I swear I never saw anything bigger than a mouse there, except for my dog when she got off the leash a couple of times.) Since my chicken wire is totally shot, I have to get something, so doing nothing is not an option. And if I spend more than $5 or so, I want to take the device with me if I move, which I might do in a year or so. So it has to be portable. And I forgot to tell you that I compost in my front yard, off a city street, so I really should do my part to keep the neighborhood looking nice. I know I was slacking with the chicken wire--hey, it is so cheap!--so I must make amends. And I'm sure my neighbor John (may he RIP) would be doing a little jig in his grave if he knew of this improvement. Please help. Yours in compost, Ruth the Moabite From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!REYNOLSE@esvx17.es.dupont.com Fri Feb 18 17:02:05 EST 1994 Article: 26658 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!REYNOLSE@esvx17.es.dupont.com From: reynolse@esvx17.es.dupont.com Subject: Re: Square foot gardening Message-ID: <1994Feb15.203444.23890@es.dupont.com> Sender: news@es.dupont.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: esvx17.es.dupont.com Reply-To: reynolse@esvx17.es.dupont.com Organization: DuPont (Opinions are those of the writer only) References: <2joasa$46q@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> <1994Feb15.144709.20973@leo.vsla.edu>, Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 20:34:44 GMT Lines: 20 In article , SJGALLA@STEVEG.RALEIGH.IBM.COM writes: >In <1994Feb15.144709.20973@leo.vsla.edu>, bhaile@leo.vsla.edu (Bess Haile) writes: > >>If I could have only one book in my library's gardening section >>this is the one I'd buy. > >OK, ya sold me! :-) Now, does anyone know the ISBN#? Seriously, I >want to pickup a copy. > > > Steve Gallagher > Square Foot Gardening Mel Bartholomew 1981 Rodale Press ISBN 0-87857-340-2 hardcover ISBN 0-87857-341-0 paperback From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:02:06 EST 1994 Article: 26659 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail From: HEMMINGSEN@4j.lane.edu (Karen Hemmingsen 687-3309) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: ! Date: 15 Feb 1994 16:47:26 -0600 Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway Lines: 2 Sender: daemon@cs.utexas.edu Message-ID: <01H8X2SJXXJQ005BUF@pmdf.lane.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!EU.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:02:07 EST 1994 Article: 26660 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!EU.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!not-for-mail From: fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq Butt) Subject: Re: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advi Message-ID: <2jrg9i$ara@engage.sps.mot.com> Lines: 46 Sender: news@oakhill.sps.mot.com (oakhill news) Nntp-Posting-Host: engage Organization: Motorola RISC Software, Austin, Texas References: <2jo61m$btl@engage.sps.mot.com> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 21:53:54 GMT In article gdwill@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Garry Williams) writes: ... my quoted article ripped out... % % %Gee, that standard disclaimer might come in handy about now...:) Roses do %in fact have long feeder roots (they spread outwards and lie close to the %surface, rather than growing down deep like the taproots of some plants) %and accordingly, you will get much better results if you amend the whole %bed rather than trying to take shortcuts. Digging holes in compacted clay %and just amending the holes is really just like planting the roses in %clay pots. They have this wonderful soil to grow in-for the space of %about 12"-then they run into a brick wall (or at least it would be brick %if it were just fired a bit better). I use this effect to advantage to %contain my rugosas, which otherwise would spread like crazy. But for my %hybrid teas, I work the _whole_ bed, not individual spots, and my roses %are better for it. % %Garry Williams %g.williams42@genie.geis.com %RTC Coordinator, GEnie Garden RoundTable Garry: maybe I should have been more clear. Lemme try again. _Given the time/effort etc._ required to dig out (in Austin read: chisel out of rock-hard limestone) a ground-level bed or make a big, raised bed; it can be *OK* to excavate smaller holes. Your point about surface, feeder roots is well-taken though and I guess that's where you would pay for not putting in the extra work of making a real rose bed. All I was trying to say is that roses *can* grow pretty well in excavated holes that have nice, amended soil in 'em. The results are better than simply planting in pots because by being in-ground, the roots get a lot of temperature protection and also, I have noticed that if you amend the heck out of the soil you add to the planting sites, after a year, you will discover that the clay at the bottom is no longer rock-hard and nasty but softens somewhat. Of course, a raised bed is a far nicer solution but hey this is a good 50% solution. fmb -- Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightest relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:02:08 EST 1994 Article: 26661 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!usenet From: mikeb@radonc.ucdmc.ucdavis.edu Subject: RE: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Guru) Organization: UC Davis References: , Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 23:13:17 GMT Lines: 23 sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes: > { the point of the posting...} >The week before last, I took several of the kids out in groups of three, >and we transplanted their little plants. Three days later, the sprouts >are eaten down to nubs. I suspect snails, and the row of peas is >inches away from an area covered with miscellaneous groundcover, ivy >and such. Last week rain kept us from finishing the planting, but rest of the >plants are really ready to go. I worry about another snail invasion, and >have gotten as many plastic soda bottles as I've been hoarding ready to cover >the transplants. I really don't have enough. One of the teachers wants me >to bait the area, I'm resistant to this idea because of the proximity to >kids, their pets, the wildflower area, and the idea of pesticides in general. Go down to the recycle place and buy more plastic soda bottles -- given the restraints you've mentioned I think a physical barrier is your only hope. Sunset tested virtually all home remedies a couple of years ago and didn't give any much hope (diatomaceaous (sp!) earth, copper, crushed rock, etc. Peas will rapidly outgrow most snail given a good start. Mike From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!news.eunet.fi!dkuug!news.eunet.no!nuug!nac.no!ifi.uio.no!sics.se!eua.ericsson.se!ericom!terminus.ericsson.se!news Fri Feb 18 17:02:09 EST 1994 Article: 26662 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!news.eunet.fi!dkuug!news.eunet.no!nuug!nac.no!ifi.uio.no!sics.se!eua.ericsson.se!ericom!terminus.ericsson.se!news From: joan@terminus.ericsson.se (Joan Hardbattle) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: <1994Feb15.174108.11473@terminus.ericsson.se> Sender: news@terminus.ericsson.se Nntp-Posting-Host: oslo Reply-To: joan@terminus.ericsson.se Organization: Camtec Electronics (Ericsson), Leicester, England References: <2j8odj$8gc@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 94 17:41:08 GMT Lines: 11 On the subject of ways to keep cats out of your garden - my Dad heard this tip in a gardening programme, tried it and swears it works. Take some empty 2 or 3 litre plastic bottles (Coca-Cola type) minus the labels, half fill with water, replace top and lay them on their sides in the garden. Why this should work no-one I've spoken to knows, but they say it does. Certainly my Dad hasn't been visited by cats since . If it works I'd be interested to know. Joan (cat lover as well as garden lover) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:02:10 EST 1994 Article: 26663 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!ctp.org!not-for-mail From: bmoon@eis.calstate.edu (Bruce A. Moon) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Storing apple scions Date: 15 Feb 1994 15:50:13 -0800 Organization: California Technology Project of The Calif State Univ Lines: 6 Message-ID: <2jrn3l$191@eis.calstate.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: eis.calstate.edu I've been told to keep them in a plastic bag in the vegetable crisper. I've also been told to graft them as soon as i can. I had to free up a whole drawer after the California Rare Fruit Growers Exchange. I'm new at grafting so I am not necessarily the definitive source.-- Bruce Moon Rio Linda, CA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!hmiddlet Fri Feb 18 17:02:11 EST 1994 Article: 26664 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca!herman.cs.uoguelph.ca!hmiddlet From: hmiddlet@uoguelph.ca (Heather Middleton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sowbugs, AKA pillbugs Date: 16 Feb 1994 01:58:51 GMT Organization: University of Guelph Lines: 34 Message-ID: <2jrukr$n3j@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: herman.cs.uoguelph.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Ruth Moabite (ruth+@cs.cmu.edu) wrote: : My garden contains a veritable plethora of pillbugs. You know, those : little crustaceanous bugs in the garden that roll themselves up when you : touch them? I was wondering if anyone knows if these bugs are harmful, : or beneficial, or neutral. Got problems with the rolly pollies ( sowbugs ). Well I would consider them neutral...or a nusance ..depending where they are. They love composts and are an important contributor to the fauna in there. But yes, In the house, they get a little too creppy. : I recently applied some Fruit Trees Alive! to my potted fig trees. : The major result was that the trees immediately set fruit. The secondary : result is that I cannot find any sowbugs in those pots. (They are in my : basement under a HPS lamp.) I know that there is a considerable quantity : of boron in this fertilizer mix, since it is specially formulated for : fruit trees. Q: Do sowbugs hate boron? What would happen if I have a : low does of boron to my whole garden? No! I really wouldn't try spreading boron all over your garden. It can be be quite toxic to plants even at very low dosages. It is required by the plants, but only as a micronutrient ( ie very low dosage ). I don't know how to control them outside, other than to try removing surface debris that they live in ( which will lead to the loss of moisture from your garden ). Inside the house, try the trick my mother used, put a piece of two way tape ( carpet tape ) under or around your HPS lamps and they will just walk onto it and stick. Simple stuff. Good luck, Heather Middleton Environmental Biology University of Guelph E-mail: hmiddlet@uoguelph.ca From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.intercon.com!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!nic.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!jkenney Fri Feb 18 17:02:12 EST 1994 Article: 26665 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.intercon.com!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!nic.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!jkenney From: jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) Subject: re: vermiculture Message-ID: <1994Feb16.020717.8648@k12.ucs.umass.edu> Sender: usenet@k12.ucs.umass.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: k12.ucs.umass.edu Reply-To: jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) Organization: University of Massachusetts/Amherst K-12 Information System Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 02:07:17 GMT Lines: 10 I have been following the discussion in this group on vermiculture and would like to know where I can get the worms for this. I believe they were red worms. Is this a species I can get at a bait shop, or would I have to order them special. If so, where? thanks, Jeff -- Jeff Kenney Great Falls Middle School/Science "A boy's will is the wind's will, and the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts". From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!destroyer!ncar!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha Fri Feb 18 17:02:13 EST 1994 Article: 26666 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!destroyer!ncar!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha From: martha@baervan.nmt.edu (Martha Cather) Subject: Re: Gardening in the arid Southwest Message-ID: <1994Feb15.171910.25596@nmt.edu> Sender: news@nmt.edu (News software) Nntp-Posting-Host: baervan Organization: PRRC-New Mexico Tech, Socorro NM References: <2j989l$4v8@konark.cs.umd.edu> <9402132318594.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 17:19:10 GMT Lines: 26 In article <9402132318594.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) writes: >>I live in El Paso, TX; in the arid Southwest. >>I just moved into a new house and would like to create >>a garden that has native plants and plants that do not >>need too much water. I would appreciate any suggestions >>of how to go about it. > >You need to check out a company called Plants of the Southwest. I can't find >my catalog to give you the address, but they are in either Santa Fe or >Albuquerque. They specialize in desert plants. Plants of the Southwest 930 Baca St. Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505)983-1548 Also look up Judith Phillips (?) book on landscaping with southwestern native plants. Although much of her stuff is for a slightly cooler climate than El Paso, she has some excellent suggestions. Martha in NM email: martha@baervan.nmt.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!casbah.acns.nwu.edu!rhalgren Fri Feb 18 17:02:14 EST 1994 Article: 26667 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!casbah.acns.nwu.edu!rhalgren From: rhalgren@casbah.acns.nwu.edu (Robert Halgren) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Date: 16 Feb 1994 03:07:32 GMT Organization: Northwestern University, Evanston IL USA Lines: 22 Message-ID: <2js2lk$ksf@news.acns.nwu.edu> References: <2jrcts$di8@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: unseen1.acns.nwu.edu > >Last summer I had lots of problems with thoses mollucs too! Beer traps >were the solution I used ( living in a house with lots of university >students means that dribbles of beer was easily supplied ). But that >became rather difficult to get after a while and the beer evaporated quickly >due to the alcohol content in it ( I never made traps with covers over >them, my mistake ). So I tried using yeast and a bit of sugar instead. The >slugs or snail like the fermentation and the sweetness for some reason and >climb right in and drown. They were not as good as the beer traps..but a >small package of yeast from the store goes a long way. If alcohol is not >premised on the school grounds...why not try using de-alcholised beer? I >don't know if it has the same effect, but it's worth a try? Write to me >and tell me the results then. > I would suggest either NA beer (Sharps? I don't drink the stuff) or just plain sugar water. I think they like the sweetness more than anything else. Also make sure to put a rock or piece of wood on top of the trap (leaving room for the little suckers to get in, of course), they are more likely to go in there seeking shade that way. Works for earwigs too. Rob From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af017 Fri Feb 18 17:02:15 EST 1994 Article: 26668 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!af017 From: af017@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (David R. Smith) Subject: Re: High Intensity Discharge Lights Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 03:03:16 GMT Lines: 27 In fact, if you read thoroughly through a number of the major newspapers you find that various law enforcement agencies are still trying anything and everything to find indoor grass growers. They worry about civil rights violations, later. Much later. For example in some states various cops (incl. local drug squads, DEA, and anyone else looking for cash seizures) are actually going around with special heat sensors that can detect hot lamps from a vehicle as it cruises down the street, they are still busting people based on such without-any-warrant hunting. As for buying from ANY indoor grow shop. Forget it if you are at all concerned or vulnerable. Paying cash as Karen Paulsell mentions is not always sufsufficient often the stores are staked out and customers filmed, license plates ttaken. The best is to go to large stores only like Home Depot and buy what you can there. Of course mail order is just as vulnerable. There was a case of a grow shop owner in Seattle who HAD to supply all names and descriptions of customers over a several year period to the Hemp Squad and was charged based onbased on ONE buyer growing grass SEVERAL YEARS after his last trip to that store. David Smith -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!x92ochs1 Fri Feb 18 17:02:15 EST 1994 Article: 26669 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!x92ochs1 From: x92ochs1@gw.wmich.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Removing Ice from Shrubs? Message-ID: <1994Feb15.221829.14898@gw.wmich.edu> Date: 15 Feb 94 22:18:29 EST References: Organization: Western Michigan University Lines: 16 In article , "Steven B. Eisenberg" writes: > We got it with an ice storm in Pittsburgh and wanted to know how to > remove ice from our shrubs and trees. Or do we have to wait for the > thaw. We had a big ice storm in 1986 I believe. All the trees drooped downwards, but once the ice melted, their shapes were restored. It may be best to let them thaw, since the ice-coated branches are very brittle. Warm temps this week should help them thaw. Jeff From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!x92ochs1 Fri Feb 18 17:02:16 EST 1994 Article: 26670 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!x92ochs1 From: x92ochs1@gw.wmich.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: central IL bushes Message-ID: <1994Feb15.222105.14900@gw.wmich.edu> Date: 15 Feb 94 22:21:05 EST References: Followup-To: rec.gardens Distribution: world Organization: Western Michigan University Lines: 14 In article , mikka@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (Mikka Whiteaker) writes: > I am interested in a small bush (no taller than 4 to 5 feet) that > will survive the somewhat harsh Central Illinois winters. Does > anyone have any ideas. Honey suckle, lilacs, burnign bushes? I am > at a loss as to what does well in this area! Oh yah, and full sun > in the afternoons. Lilas, burningbushes, and honeysuckle will probably do okay. Forsythias may be okay. Jeff From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha Fri Feb 18 17:02:17 EST 1994 Article: 26671 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha From: martha@baervan.nmt.edu (Martha Cather) Subject: Re: Sowbugs, AKA pillbugs Message-ID: <1994Feb15.171605.25405@nmt.edu> Sender: news@nmt.edu (News software) Nntp-Posting-Host: baervan Organization: PRRC-New Mexico Tech, Socorro NM References: <9402132318593.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 17:16:05 GMT Lines: 21 In article <9402132318593.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) writes: >> My garden contains a veritable plethora of pillbugs. You know, those >>little crustaceanous bugs in the garden that roll themselves up when you >>touch them? I was wondering if anyone knows if these bugs are harmful, >>or beneficial, or neutral. >> >> OG recently ran a reply to a letter (last month, I think) in which >>they claimed that these pests are not as pesty as people think; that they >>eat decaying matter, and that if you really hate them, get some chickens. >>Someone please confirm or disconfirm this claim. I have these fellows too, and they like my strawberry bed, and yes, they do like to eat strawberries (or at least curl up in suspiciously pill-bug sized holes in the berries. I just curse them and threaten them, never really do anything about it though. Martha in NM email: martha@baervan.nmt.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:02:18 EST 1994 Article: 26672 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!not-for-mail From: haldas@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu (Gene Haldas) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: MIMOSA TREES Date: 15 Feb 1994 22:30:56 -0500 Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 8 Message-ID: <2js41g$6bj@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet3.scri.fsu.edu Does anyone out there know how long it takes for mimosa seeds to germinate? And what sort of medium is best used to get a few trees started? For starters I used a mix of peat moss and sand. Any information would be appreciated. -- -- Gene Haldas -- Tallahassee, Florida From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!portal!cup.portal.com!amigan Fri Feb 18 17:02:18 EST 1994 Article: 26673 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!portal!cup.portal.com!amigan From: amigan@cup.portal.com (Mike - Medwid) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: t-skimina@plato.. Message-ID: <103872@cup.portal.com> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 94 20:23:00 PST Organization: The Portal System (TM) Distribution: usa References: <103714@cup.portal.com> Lines: 4 t-skimina@plato..Please send more info on S. American passion plants. I tried to e-mail you directly but received a mailer daemon. We live in San Mateo California. Temperatures are typically between 50 and 80 deg f. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Fri Feb 18 17:02:19 EST 1994 Article: 26674 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Horse manure: toxic waste! Message-ID: <1994Feb15.155911.16565@walter.cray.com> Lines: 25 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <2jqksa$cp5@apollo.it.luc.edu> Date: 15 Feb 94 15:59:10 CST In article <2jqksa$cp5@apollo.it.luc.edu>, jmcnult@orion.it.luc.edu (John A. Mcnulty) writes: |> I just read over in rec.equestrian that the California Environmental |> Protection Agency is trying to pass legislation declaring horse |> manure a "toxic substance" and horses "non-point source pollutants". |> Needless to say, this has nasty repercussions for horse owners |> (bagging waste and sending it to special disposal facilities). |> |> By the way, anyone looking for compost ought to ask a local riding |> facility. Ours has a huge mountain of manure, many years old |> (I know, probably not properly composted and probably polluting |> the railroad switching yard down the hill). They gladly give the |> stuff away. I know it doesn't smell because I found my 8-year old son |> playing in it once, fascinated by how warm and steamy it was on a |> cold fall day. |> |> As far as fresh manure burning crops, I saw a guy on Long Island |> use it right from the horse, practically. He had lots of room in |> his garden (I'm so jealous!) so he had very widely spaced rows of |> plants, with the manure in the center of the rows (probably keeps |> down weeds, too). |> Patty, not John Anybody in the DC area know where I can get some of this stuff?? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu!rmilner Fri Feb 18 17:02:20 EST 1994 Article: 26675 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu!rmilner From: rmilner@Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu (Ruth Milner) Subject: Re: _Presentable_ Produce Message-ID: <1994Feb16.005456.19069@Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu> Reply-To: rmilner@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Ruth Milner) Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM References: <1453300462@cdp> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 94 00:54:56 GMT Lines: 24 In article sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes: >In article <1453300462@cdp> Libby Goldstein writes: >>There are, as you know from growing lettuce for yourself, there are very few >>beasties that attack lettuce. > >You don't get earwigs? Boy, it might be worth it to relocate! Something last year ate our lettuce when they were just tiny, tiny seedlings, in some cases not even through the surface of the soil yet. Sheared 'em right off just beneath the surface. I don't think it was cutworm, because while tilling and spading, we only found two in the whole 20x30 area, and neither of them where we put the lettuce. I did notice some very tiny beetles in some places; could they have done it? Whatever it was didn't touch the spinach or peas. We're in a different house this year, so I'm hoping to avoid both those and the two types of corn-eating critters we got (earworm and some sort of small beetle colonies. The owner of the house we rented last year had had problems the year before with corn and lettuce). Virgin squash territory, too, so no squash bugs either! -- Ruth Milner NRAO/VLA Socorro NM Manager of Computing Systems rmilner@aoc.nrao.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!nwnexus!loofah Fri Feb 18 17:02:21 EST 1994 Article: 26676 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!destroyer!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!nwnexus!loofah From: loofah@halcyon.com (Kathryn L. Stein) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: MIMOSA TREES Date: 16 Feb 1994 03:01:20 -0800 Organization: "A World of Information at your Fingertips" Lines: 21 Sender: news@nwfocus.wa.com Message-ID: <2jsue0$8o2@nwfocus.wa.com> References: <2js41g$6bj@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: nwfocus.wa.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Gene Haldas (haldas@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu) wrote: : Does anyone out there know how long it takes for mimosa seeds to : germinate? And what sort of medium is best used to get a few trees : started? For starters I used a mix of peat moss and sand. : Any information would be appreciated. : I'm not even remotely knowledgeable but I carried mimosa seeds with me from my NYC garden to Washington State and planted them in small pots of plain old potting soil. If I remember correctly, they took maybe a month or two to germinate and are still growing -- one outside and another in a pot. They haven't grown as quickly or as large as the one in NYC, however. I'm not sure why, but I suspect it has to do with the fact that we get so much rain . A friend of mine, however, who lived in Jersey, took seeds from the same tree and hers is doing really well. They seem to have long taproots, so I suspect they need pretty loose soil (also another problem here with the amount of clay soil in my yard). You might want to check with your local extension service to find out what kind of soil will grow them best. But as for your original question, just hurl the seeds in a pot and go from there. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!festival!dcs.ed.ac.uk!iro Fri Feb 18 17:02:22 EST 1994 Article: 26677 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!festival!dcs.ed.ac.uk!iro From: iro@dcs.ed.ac.uk (Irene Orr) Subject: Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Message-ID: Sender: cnews@dcs.ed.ac.uk (UseNet News Admin) Organization: Department of Computer Science, University of Edinburgh References: <2jrcts$di8@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 11:39:13 GMT Lines: 5 I had some success trapping slugs by putting a bit of orange peel under a cabbage leaf, so this might work for your snails too - they seemed to congregate under the leaf at night, and stayed there, Irene From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!grey-bbs!rick.hlavka Fri Feb 18 17:02:23 EST 1994 Article: 26678 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!grey-bbs!rick.hlavka From: rick.hlavka@greymatter.com (Rick Hlavka) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: propagating shrubs from a Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 02:57:00 GMT Message-ID: <9402152203002549@greymatter.com> Organization: Grey Matter (206) 528-1941 V.32bis Distribution: world Lines: 41 JT>From: jjwt@imagen.com (Julia Tien) >Newsgroups: rec.gardens >Subject: propagating shrubs from a cutting >Date: Sat, 12 Feb 1994 02:35:33 GMT >Message-ID: <1994Feb12.023533.26830@aqm.com> >Organization: imagen JT>I have a shrub that I would like to try propagating from a cutting, >as I don't know what variety it is (though I do have the Chinese >name for it--is there a Chinese -> Latin botanical name cross-reference >anywhere?). JT>It is a woody shrub--what is the best time of year to try rooting a >cutting? Should it be dormant? Just budding or leafing out? Most woody shrubs do well if you try to root them in late spring/early summer, after they have leafed out. Others will defy all efforts. Without knowing what is best, I would try it a couple of different ways. Yes, get some rooting powder! Take some cuttings ASAP, while it is still dormant, and then again later, after it has leafed out. For cuttings, cut off branches and then cut the branches into 4 - 6 inch pieces. The bottom of each piece should be near a node where it would have leafed out, but remove any buds. Also scrape the bark off for an inch or less on each side, leaving some of the bark intact. Cut the bottom at an angle, dip it into the rooting powder, tap off any excess, and poke it into wet sand and/or perlite, being careful to avoid wiping off the powder. You can also strip off side branches so that they retain some of the swelling at the bottom of the branch (a natural rooting spot). Put the cuttings where they will receive filtered light but no direct light. For me, on the north side of the house has worked well. You can also try "layering". If a branch can be bent down to the ground, remove bark on the lowest side, apply rooting hormone, bury under an inch or two soil, weigh it down with a rock, keep it damp in that area and check back in a few months. If it grows roots, cut it off and pot it up, showing extra care until it roots fully. * QMPro 1.0 41-0001 * If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving isn't for From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!yarrina.connect.com.au!pfa!sarah Fri Feb 18 17:02:24 EST 1994 Article: 26679 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!yarrina.connect.com.au!pfa!sarah From: sarah@pfa.pfa.com.au (Sarah Fitchett) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Date: Wed, 16 Feb 94 11:38:56 +1000 Organization: Paul Fitchett & Associates Message-ID: <0E062001.ofdig1@pfa.pfa.com.au> Reply-To: sarah@pfa.com.au Distribution: world X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.6v1 Lines: 56 In article (rec.gardens), sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes: > > Most of my gardening efforts since September have focused on the > elementary school my 6yo daughter is now attending. [some deleted] > The week before last, I took several of the kids out in groups of three, > and we transplanted their little plants. Three days later, the sprouts > are eaten down to nubs. I suspect snails, and the row of peas is > inches away from an area covered with miscellaneous groundcover, ivy > and such. Last week rain kept us from finishing the planting, but rest of the > plants are really ready to go. I worry about another snail invasion, and > have gotten as many plastic soda bottles as I've been hoarding ready to cover > the transplants. I really don't have enough. One of the teachers wants me > to bait the area, I'm resistant to this idea because of the proximity to > kids, their pets, the wildflower area, and the idea of pesticides in general. > > I heard that scyamore bolls can form an effective snail barrier, is this true? > I could certainly snag a couple of kids to collect them, there are trees with > these nearby, and we could prop them up around the plants. > [some deleted] > --Kim Fisher > > Slugs and snails are the worst pests around and really difficult to get rid of. One thing that springs to mind is that ducks really like snails. If you don't want to get a duck or two you could get the kids to gather up all the snails and then go off to the local duck pond and feed them to the ducks - a better diet for them than white bread. We used to do that when we were kids. The funny looks we used to get! There is a new product on the market here which is made of mineral salts of some kind that repel snails and slugs away from your plants and it is meant to be totally non-toxic. It is called Snail Stop and is produced by Amgrow but I think it was developed in Australia. I haven't tried it yet but it sounds like a good idea if you can be diligent about keeping your plants surrounded with the stuff. Other things snails are meant to hate crossing include: oak leaves, crushed egg shells, hair and salt. When you talk about 'syacamore bolls' do you mean sycamore seeds? If so I would not recommend spreading them around the garden as you'll probably get a huge crop of little sycamore trees if my sycamore's rampant reproduction is anything to go by. Sarah Fitchett <> email: sarah@pfa.com.au voice: +61 3 571-9731 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews Fri Feb 18 17:02:25 EST 1994 Article: 26680 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!netnews From: rehrauer@apollo.hp.com (Steve Rehrauer) Subject: Fireflies as slug/snail control? (was Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!!) Sender: usenet@apollo.hp.com (Usenet News) Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 14:41:31 GMT References: Nntp-Posting-Host: jurassic.ch.apollo.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard Corporation, Chelmsford, MA Lines: 25 In article sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes: >I've described our project at length to exact pity for my plight. Any >non-toxic remedies would be appreciated. Beer traps are out, as the >teachers feel this would be worse than the chemicals. Sort of wierd to >me, but I can see the point here, there's probably some ordinance against >alcohol on the school premises. In her book NOAH'S GARDEN, Sara Stein asserts that firefly larva are slug predators. (At least, I believe it was the larva and not the adults; it's been awhile since I've read the book, and I don't have it handy here.) And, that stands of long, unmowed grasses will attract adult fireflies. I can't vouch for this from personal experience, or whether snails are also preyed upon. And I'm not sure whether fireflies are present in your neck o' the woods. And in any case, this method certainly doesn't offer any near-term relief. But with all those caveats :-), it sounds like a wonderful long-term solution. I don't suppose anyone here can verify Ms. Stein's assertion, and knows whether snails as well as slugs are controlled? -- "I feel lightheaded, Sam. I think my brain | Steve rehrauer@apollo.hp.com is out of air. But it's kind of a neat | /HP/org/chart/says/you/are/here feeling..." --Freelance Police | Massachusetts Language Lab From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!aj459 Fri Feb 18 17:02:26 EST 1994 Article: 26681 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!aj459 From: aj459@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Daniel Dumych) Subject: Dopey Beginner Needs Compost Advice! Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 14:47:33 GMT Lines: 9 The subject line says it all, unfortunately. Could someone please tell me how to build a proper compost pile? Thanks... Daniel -- - Daniel M. Dumych - -: aj459@Freenet.carleton.ca :- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!destroyer!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink.bc.ca!a471 Fri Feb 18 17:02:27 EST 1994 Article: 26682 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!destroyer!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink.bc.ca!a471 From: Arthur_Klassen@mindlink.bc.ca (Arthur Klassen) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Poinsettias: Keeping them alive all year Date: 16 Feb 94 15:03:39 GMT Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <38769@mindlink.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: mindlink.bc.ca Is there some way of keeping potted poinsettias, received at Christmas time, alive all year round? We are in what amounts to apartment housing, so that we don't have ready access to some place we can "bed" them out. If this is covered in a FAQ, please direct me there. tia...ank "There's roads 'n' there's roads and they call, can't you hear it? Roads of the earth and roads of the spirit. But the best roads of all are the ones that aren't certain. One of those is where you'll find me till they drop the big curtain." From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!ns1.cc.lehigh.edu!lrp2 Fri Feb 18 17:02:28 EST 1994 Article: 26683 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!netnews.cc.lehigh.edu!ns1.cc.lehigh.edu!lrp2 From: lrp2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (LYNN REBECCA PERRY) Subject: Re: Will spring bulbs keep? Message-ID: <1994Feb16.142148.33489@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 14:21:48 GMT Organization: Lehigh University Lines: 14 >> ... bulbs not yet planted because site not ready - will they keep? > >In my opinion, they won't keep. They will attempt to grow even if still >in their paper bag, and this will prove fatal if they don't find any >soil, nutrient, light, water etc. > But, it you keep the bulbs cold, they would stay dormant waiting for the temperatures to warm up. If you still have warm enough temperatures to plant them, do so. They will grow their roots and you should have bulbs in the spring. the other option is to plant them somewhere else and transplant them. Good Luck Lynn -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!destroyer!caen!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!usenet.ufl.edu!gnv.ifas.ufl.edu!jma Fri Feb 18 17:02:28 EST 1994 Article: 26684 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!destroyer!caen!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!usenet.ufl.edu!gnv.ifas.ufl.edu!jma From: jma@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu (Julio M. Arias, U. Florida - CREC) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.agriculture.misc Subject: Info on Butterfly gardens? Message-ID: <1994Feb16.101227.3780@tower> Date: 16 Feb 94 10:12:27 -0500 Lines: 13 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:26684 alt.agriculture.misc:577 Dear netters I am planning to start a little butterfly farm in Central America and I need information about possible costumers. Names, adresses, phone, fax, e-mail from butterfly gardens, zoos with insect exhibits, insectaries and biological supplies houses will be welcome. Any information could be e-mailed to me, and if there is interest in the newsgroups I will post a summary later. Thanks in advance Julio jma@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!uuneo.NeoSoft.com!sugar.NeoSoft.COM!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:02:29 EST 1994 Article: 26685 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!sdd.hp.com!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!uuneo.NeoSoft.com!sugar.NeoSoft.COM!not-for-mail From: claird@sugar.NeoSoft.COM (Cameron Laird) Newsgroups: sci.bio,alt.books.reviews,rec.arts.books,misc.rural,rec.gardens,bionet.agroforestry Subject: Xylophilia (was: Biggest thing alive) [LONG] Followup-To: rec.arts.books,misc.rural,rec.gardens Date: 16 Feb 1994 09:36:28 -0600 Organization: NeoSoft Internet Services +1 713 684 5969 Lines: 145 Message-ID: <2jtehs$o8v@sugar.NeoSoft.COM> References: <1994Feb9.154457.20742@cs.wm.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: sugar.neosoft.com Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu sci.bio:13851 alt.books.reviews:2437 rec.arts.books:73922 misc.rural:7806 rec.gardens:26685 bionet.agroforestry:458 In article , TOMI TUOMASJUKKA (MMVAR) wrote: . . . >Dunno 'bout that, but as far as I know, the biggest living organism on >earth is 'General Sherman', the massive giant sequia (a tree) in California. >I don't remember the latin name of the species, might be something like >Sequiadendron something (giganteum ?). > >General is roughly 80 meters high, the perimeter is about 65 meters at >ground level (not sure if I remember right) and its volume is about 1200 >cubic meters!!! I doubt that any fungus could beat that. . . . It's not quite so rotund as your memory has it; I can't find any estimate for General Sherman's circumference that tops 150 feet, and I'm a bit skeptical of that. *Sequoiadendron giganteum* has many specimens that top 2000 tons, ten times the weight of the largest whales. One of the spectacular aspects of this species is that their habit is rather lonely; they grow without other trees nearby, so that "You can stand back and see the whole monstrous vegetable: its untapering shaft going up like a road to the tangle of heavy branches that make its head--perhaps 100 feet of lively sprouting above 200 feed of simple, unadorned log." Some have a first "branch [that is] alone bigger than the biggest elm tree in the world ..." The quotations are from Johnson, Hugh 1984 Hugh Johnson's Encyclopedia of Trees. Gallery Books, New York City a marvelous coffee-table book. As the dust jacket says, it is a fully illustrated guide to all the major garden and forest trees . . . an unforgettable journey through a magnif- icent and intricate world of natural beauty, and an unmatched work of refer- ence for gardeners and tree lovers. The *Encyclopedia* shows the world of trees in thorough and loving detail: the structure and life cycle of trees, their place in history and ecology, forestry past and present, the use of trees in garden and landscape design, tree planting and care. Forming the heart of the *Encyclopedia* is a visually beautiful omnibus of deci- duous and coniferous trees--more than six hundred species--illustrated with close to a thousand full-color photo- graphs and drawings and accompanied by a text that sparkles with fascinating facts and tree lore. It's true. The dust jacket completely jumps the track, though, when it quotes a former Director of the Royal Botanic Gardens as of the opinion that Hugh Johnson .... writes without prejudice or inhibition, eager to share his vivid en- joyment and his remarkable understanding. If you start his book with a feeling for trees, I don't see how you can finish it without loving them. There's nothing wrong with this, either, except for the "without prejudice" phrase; how could dendrology possibly be an arena for the display of prejudice? In fact, the *Encyclopedia* answers that question, too. Johnson is gloriously prejudiced, prejudiced about trees. Moreover, his prejudices are, well, correct. Johnson is best known as a wine critic. His physiognomy, though, rather suggests a rugby player whose teammates think he's a bit too enthusiastic about the rough and tumble. In any case, he's lusty in his affections, and forthright in his writing. Cheerful personal views fill his *Encyclopedia*: I feel obliged to mention what to me is the ugliest tree in the world--the weeping wellingtonia. This freak from a French nur- sery has branches that grow straight downwards, as near the trunk as they can get. . . . To grow one seems to me rather like exhibiting Siamese twins. . . . The larch is one of the fastest-grow- ing of all trees; certainly the fastest to make strong and heavy wooed with almost oak- like qualities. . . . Possibly more important than any of the species, however, is a hybrid, the fruit of a union romantically formed at a ducal seat in the highlands of Scotland. . . . The 4th Duke was so smitten with the larch that he planted 17,000,000 of them. For a non-fanatic to write of rhododendrons at all is foolhardy, but to try to distinguish those that should be called trees, at least without long experience in the Himalayas, is almost suicidal. There never was a rhododen- dron with the sort of long straight trunk that would tempt a forester, that is certain. Yet who would call a plant 90 feet high, how- ever curving and many-stemmed, a shrub? What can you grow that gives a garden such a sense of established well-being as a fig tree or a mulberry? I've no doubt it is just wit- less harking back to a three-quarters-mythical past: the fig-tree mentioned so often in the Bible and popping out from under every fallen marble frieze in the ruins of the classical world, and the mulberry appearing from China in the Dark Ages--maybe long before--and with it the Secret of Silk. . . . Mulberries are gastronomically neglected. They are somehow not quite right as fruit, combining the ex- tremes of squashiness and pippiness ... He continues for another three hundred pages. These in-group jokes and flamboyance are the sort of thing that make a re- viewer instinctively reach for such adjectives as "cloying" and "fanatical". Johnson is better than that. Read him your- self, and you'll find that his overadrenalized prose actually delivers on its promise to entertain and communicate with accuracy. When he compares the flowering ashes to "the velvet- framed bosom of Nell Gwynn ...", it turns out that there's some artistic justification for his almost-over-wrought prose. I've narrowed follow-ups; I encourage others to make their own adjustments. -- Cameron Laird claird@Neosoft.com (claird%Neosoft.com@uunet.uu.net) +1 713 267 7966 claird@litwin.com (claird%litwin.com@uunet.uu.net) +1 713 996 8546 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ee.und.ac.za!hippo.ru.ac.za!caesar.wits.ac.za!Witsvma.wits.ac.za!084NEIL Fri Feb 18 17:02:30 EST 1994 Article: 26686 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!ee.und.ac.za!hippo.ru.ac.za!caesar.wits.ac.za!Witsvma.wits.ac.za!084NEIL From: 084NEIL@Witsvma.wits.ac.za Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help: Garry McDonald Date: Wed, 16 Feb 94 17:40:56 RSA Organization: Wits University Lines: 10 Message-ID: <16F5FF8A9.084NEIL@Witsvma.wits.ac.za> NNTP-Posting-Host: witsvma.wits.ac.za URGENTLY LOOKING FOR GARRY McDONALD Garry, if you happen to read this, any replies I sent you bounced back. Can you please send me your address again. I have it as gmcdonal@tamu.edu. Thanks, Neil Saffer From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!nigel.msen.com!tbomb!time Fri Feb 18 17:02:32 EST 1994 Article: 26687 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!nigel.msen.com!tbomb!time From: time@ice.com (Tim Endres) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: greenhouses Date: Wed, 16 Feb 94 11:26:42 EST Organization: ICE Engineering, Inc. Message-ID: <1CE00001.ofcrhg@tbomb.ice.com> Reply-To: time@ice.com (Tim Endres) X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.7b8 Lines: 27 Hello, I am about to purchase a greenhouse and would love to hear about others experinces. I am looking at 2 types a fiberglass panel and a 2 layer plastic film system. I will be using it in a cold winter setting (read that as 30 below and 10' of snow). KropKing Systems sells a set-up that is close to what I *think* I want (20-30' wide X 75' long double poly inflated with a steel structure). Has anyone had any experience with them? Also I am unsure about heating systems. I would like to be able to heat with wood because it is readily available but I don't know if that is practical. What besides heat output are the implications of different heating systems? Please reply via email at karen@ice.com and I will post a summary. Thank you for all your input Karen tim. time@ice.com (UUCP: heifetz!tbomb!time) USENET - a slow moving self parody... ph From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov!user Fri Feb 18 17:02:33 EST 1994 Article: 26688 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov!user From: cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (Marty Zimmerman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help with Calla Lily Seedlings Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 11:32:56 -0600 Organization: NASA Lewis R. C. (Analex) Lines: 28 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov I have several Calla lily seedlings (Zantedeschia elliotana {yellow}) that germinated about 1 month ago. They have 1 to 4 leaves. The problem is that they don't look very happy. When the first leaves appeared, they were thick and opaque. Now, many of the leaves seem very thin and pale. The veins are clearly visible, which they weren't in the younger leaves (or in adult leaves for that matter). It appears as if the liquid content of the leaves is too low. Right now the plants are in standard 4" plastic seedling pots with drain holes. There is 1/2" pebbles in pots for extra drainage and standard potting mix. I've kept baggies over the plants to keep the temperature and moisture levels high. Underwatering is not the problem, though overwatering might be. They have been exposed to only weak light and I've just started feeding with weak Miracle Gro solutions. What can I do to get these seedlings healthy. More light, less water, more fertilizer, bigger pots ...? Any ideas would be appreciated greatly (esp. since it took me 2 months to get the seeds to germinate!) Thanks in advance, Marty PS Book references would be appreciated too! I've had *very* little luck finding information about Calla propagation in standard bulb books. _____________________________________________________________________________ Marty Zimmerman cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov Analex Corp. - NASA Lewis Research Center Cleveland, Ohio USA Zone 6 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!CSD-NewsHost!jmc Fri Feb 18 17:02:35 EST 1994 Article: 26689 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!CSD-NewsHost!jmc From: jmc@SAIL.Stanford.EDU (John McCarthy) Newsgroups: rec.arts.books,misc.rural,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Xylophilia (was: Biggest thing alive) [LONG] Followup-To: rec.arts.books,misc.rural,rec.gardens Date: 16 Feb 1994 16:43:14 GMT Organization: Computer Science Department, Stanford University Lines: 15 Message-ID: References: <1994Feb9.154457.20742@cs.wm.edu> <2jtehs$o8v@sugar.NeoSoft.COM> Reply-To: jmc@cs.Stanford.EDU NNTP-Posting-Host: sail.stanford.edu In-reply-to: claird@sugar.NeoSoft.COM's message of 16 Feb 1994 09:36:28 -0600 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.arts.books:73930 misc.rural:7808 rec.gardens:26689 from the Grolier Encyclopedia: The park's giant sequoia trees, many of which are more than 2,000 years old, include the General Sherman Tree, which is about 83 m (272 ft) tall, has a diameter of 11 m (36 ft), and may be about 3,000 years old. This suggests a perimeter of (* 3.14 11) => 34.54 meters. Getting a 65 meter perimeter might come from multiplying the diameter by 2 pi rather than pi. -- John McCarthy, Computer Science Department, Stanford, CA 94305 * He who refuses to do arithmetic is doomed to talk nonsense. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!bh419 Fri Feb 18 17:02:36 EST 1994 Article: 26690 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!bh419 From: bh419@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Ted B Samsel) Newsgroups: rec.arts.books,misc.rural,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Xylophilia (was: Biggest thing alive) [LONG] Date: 16 Feb 1994 16:48:32 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 10 Message-ID: <2jtip0$god@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kanga.ins.cwru.edu Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.arts.books:73932 misc.rural:7809 rec.gardens:26690 Well now, I feel obliged to mention that largest living thing isn't a tree, but a soil fungus that was discovered in the UP of Michigan. This was in the news several years ago. Its true size is probably in square miles. -- Ted Samsel ....."driving a Hudson Hornet on the information superhighway. Now all we need is a JC Whitney catalog to order leopardskin terrycloth seat covers." From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!newscast.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!snowman!jts Fri Feb 18 17:02:36 EST 1994 Article: 26691 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!newscast.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!snowman!jts From: jts@snowman.Central.Sun.COM (Jim Stewart - Sun Minneapolis SE) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Greenhouses Date: 16 Feb 1994 16:47:04 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Lines: 20 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2jtim8INNal6@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> Reply-To: jts@snowman.Central.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: snowman.central.sun.com I'm thinking of putting a greenhouse outside of my walkout which has a sliding glass door on the southwest side of my house. Since I live just east of Minneapolis, and we've got severe winters (e.g. down to 36 below this year), I'm wondering if anyone can suggest any heating methods that would allow me to use a greenhouse year round. On the cable show Gardening Naturally last week, they showed how a simple plastic covering over a wood frame can add 1.5 zones of warmth, while cold frames within such a structure can add an additional 1.5 zones of warmth. However, they are located in Maine, and it was a mere 17 degrees above zero outside. Something tells me that once you get to single digits, letalone 20-30 below zero, it's not quite as easy to maintain mild temperatures. I've also heard that digging out a greenhouse and putting it below ground helps, since the temperature is more constant the deeper you go. Does anyone have any experience with the construction of a greenhouse in zones 2-4, or has anyone had any positive experience with any mail-order greenhouses? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov!user Fri Feb 18 17:02:37 EST 1994 Article: 26692 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov!user From: cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (Marty Zimmerman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 11:50:40 -0600 Organization: NASA Lewis R. C. (Analex) Lines: 13 Message-ID: References: <9402151551.AA00848@im9> NNTP-Posting-Host: mzimmer.lerc.nasa.gov Last winter, a landscaper was interviewed by the local paper. When asked about his pet peeves, he replied "A 1950's ranch with 4 globular taxus bushes in front." I went outside my newly purchased, 1950's ranch and counted 1,2,3...4 round yew bushes :-) Oh well, not for long. The taxus weevils got one yew last spring and another probably is too weak to have survived this winter. Marty (whose first bulb spears are poking through the snow) _____________________________________________________________________________ Marty Zimmerman cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov Analex Corp. - NASA Lewis Research Center Cleveland, Ohio USA Zone 5/6 - The Zone line goes down my street ;-) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Fri Feb 18 17:02:38 EST 1994 Article: 26693 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Growing potatoes above ground Message-ID: <17@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 16 Feb 94 16:32:19 GMT References: Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 11 clb5q@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Cheryl L. Boyd) writes: > Has anyone had experience with growing potatos by just laying > them on top of the beds and covering them over with 6" of straw > or rotted hay mulch? I don't grow potatoes *entirely* above ground, but I do use a heavy mulch of hay and straw. This mulch should be AT LEAST 12 inches thick, possibly thicker, to avoid green potatoes. I place unsprouted, whole seed potatoes so that they are half buried in the soil, no closer than one per square foot. If I can, I prefer to use pre-sprouted potatoes. These I place in shallow holes and v-e-r-y gently cover with loose soil. (The soil supports/protects the fragile sprouts when you pile the hay on.) Next I mulch with old hay and/or straw, piling it up about 12" deep. I use some huge old pla nks tied together at the corners to confine the mulch to the potato bed. (My garden consists of 4' x 8' permanent beds, separated by paths mulched with old carpet.) Later in the season, I will add more hay as the original mulch settles. The majority of the tubers are formed at the surface, with an occasional spud below ground. As I harvest potatoes, I throw the mulch on top of the rest of the bed. I never harvest more than I need for a particular meal, and use the heavy mulch to store the potatoes _in situ_ as long as possible. (I would think if your mulch was thick enough, this could be all winter. I can't say, as we manage to eat all of our potatoes before the end of December...) -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!unix.sri.com!headwall.Stanford.EDU!jojo Fri Feb 18 17:02:39 EST 1994 Article: 26694 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!unix.sri.com!headwall.Stanford.EDU!jojo From: jojo@leland.Stanford.EDU (Joanne Spetz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Beer traps for snails Date: 16 Feb 1994 21:10:11 GMT Organization: Stanford University, CA 94305, USA Lines: 16 Message-ID: <2ju23j$3s1@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> References: <2jrcts$di8@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> <2js2lk$ksf@news.acns.nwu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: wisdom.stanford.edu Robert Halgren wrote: > I would suggest either NA beer (Sharps? I don't drink the stuff) or >just plain sugar water. Someone wrote an article for the Palo Alto Weekly last year about beer traps. She decided to test the effectiveness of different types of beer. Wouldn't you know it, the snails like Sam Adams beer the best! At $5 a six-pack, I'm not surprised! Joanne -- Joanne Spetz Department of Economics jojo@leland.stanford.edu Stanford University "Argue for your limitations, and sure enough, they're yours." -R.Bach From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!pacbell.com!amdahl!netcomsv!netcomsv!chemelex!fms Fri Feb 18 17:02:41 EST 1994 Article: 26695 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!pacbell.com!amdahl!netcomsv!netcomsv!chemelex!fms From: fms@chemelex .com (Fred Schenkelberg) Subject: roses along ornamental iron fence Message-ID: Sender: fms@chemelex.com (Fred Schenkelberg) Reply-To: fms@chemelex.com Organization: Research Group of Chemelex Division of Raychem Corporation Distribution: ba,na,usa,world Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 20:26:15 GMT Lines: 22 Hi, the post from the new homeowner seeking advise about roses reminded me to ask this question since I too am a new condo to home (with yard) transfer. Our yard is split by a 5' ornamental iron (black) to 'guard' the pool area. We would like to plant roses along the fense to enhance the 'guard' aspect and to 'beautify' the fence to some extent. We're in zone 14 in the San Francisco Bay area and wonder which type and name of rose would work in this situation. I have the sunset Garden book, but at the nursery we're very confusted by all the varities and options. Thanks for your help. Fred --- Fred Schenkelberg fms@chemelex.com -- Fred Schenkelberg From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!rolson Fri Feb 18 17:02:42 EST 1994 Article: 26696 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!rolson From: rolson@orion.it.luc.edu (Rick T. Olson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Cardboard in compost? Date: 16 Feb 1994 17:25:01 GMT Organization: Loyola University of Chicago Lines: 6 Message-ID: <2jtktd$orj@apollo.it.luc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: orion.it.luc.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] I have heard that it is not a good idea to put sawdust from plywood in a compost pile because of the toxicity of the glue used to hold the plys together. How is it that it is ok to put cardboard (including paper towel rolls) in the pile? Different glue? Less glue don't worry? I was misinformed re:plywood? Thanks-- rick From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!leo!ehenders Fri Feb 18 17:02:43 EST 1994 Article: 26697 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!leo!ehenders From: ehenders@leo.vsla.edu (Elizabeth Henderson) Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Message-ID: <1994Feb16.182216.5053@leo.vsla.edu> Organization: Virginia State Library References: Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 18:22:16 GMT Lines: 40 sfisher@megatest.com writes: > >I've had trouble with cats in freshly-prepared beds -- once the veggies > >come up, and fill in, it's not such a problem, but the freshly-turned > >and planted areas seem to attract them especially. They seem to > >think I do all that spade-work just to give them a pleasant > >excretorical experience. > > > >I put short posts at the corners, and a few betwixt, and make a > >spider-web formation of string. About cat-chest high. They can't get > >over it, or under it. Doesn't take a really tight mesh. By the time > >things start to grow, and the string gets in the way of weeding or > >picking, the cats seem to have lost interest in the bed, and the > >string can come off. I like it because it only takes a few minutes > >to set up, and it's a completely harmless and passive deterrent. > > This sounds like a good idea. For the record, my cat problem consists > of my own two cats, who lounge around my back yard, but rarely go > "abroad" as they are getting too old and lazy to jump the fence. > > Something I like to do in a freshly prepared bed (i.e. cat-target) > is to stick in unused tomato cages and bamboo support poles, at varying > angles. The worst of my two offenders will generally leave these beds > alone, and also will not dig in a bed where there are plants. (thank goodness) > The beds don't look nice and neat, but it's better than the alternative. > > --Kim Fisher > I use hedge prunings (with leaves stripped off), longish twigs that storms blow out of my oak tree, that sort of thing, placed on fresh beds to keep the cats out. I agree once things are up and growing (and probably the ground settles a bit ) the cats do seem to leave the beds alone. Also not nice and neat, but effective, also not much work on my part, guess cats aren't the only ones that get old and lazy. I do remember though that when I gardened in the sandy soil of Florida, the problem was pretty consistent. Until this thread started, I hadn't realized I had any good things to say about our heavy clay soil here in Virginia. Lizabeth From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!vincent2.iastate.edu!adwright Fri Feb 18 17:02:44 EST 1994 Article: 26698 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!vincent2.iastate.edu!adwright From: adwright@iastate.edu () Newsgroups: news.groups,alt.config,rec.gardens,misc.rural Subject: Re: Beekeeping Newsgroup Date: 16 Feb 94 19:23:19 GMT Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa Lines: 26 Message-ID: References: <9402052242595.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: vincent2.iastate.edu Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:72047 alt.config:24878 rec.gardens:26698 misc.rural:7811 In <9402052242595.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) writes: >>I would like comments on a Usenet group for discussing beekeeping. >I'd be interested in such a group. I do not currently keep bees here in Ohio >Valley suburbia, but I did in the Appalachians of my adolescence. I hope to >start again sometime soon and would welcome the information I could gain >from a newsgroup. I'm not sure I would have much to contribute, but I can >promise to be a faithful lurker. >Greg >-------------------------------------------------------------------------- >Greg Hankins ghankins@delphi.com "'Tis well said," replied Candide >Hendersonville, Tennessee "but we must also tend our gardens." >-------------------------------------------------------------------------- I agree! I would like to see such a group. I am also a newbie bee keeper and find it to be a rewarding hobby. Beekeeping issues can be very timely and warrent a USENET group. Some issues i would like to discuss include disease protection, mite resistant strains, queen breeding and new product development, Allen -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco!gatech!destroyer!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!ncar!ames!koriel!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!ichthous!mcgrew Fri Feb 18 17:02:46 EST 1994 Article: 26699 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco!gatech!destroyer!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!ncar!ames!koriel!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!ichthous!mcgrew From: mcgrew@ichthous.Eng.Sun.COM (Darin McGrew) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: pole bean supports Date: 16 Feb 1994 21:10:15 GMT Organization: Sun Lines: 26 Message-ID: References: <0ewsHc1w165w@salzo.Cary.NC.US> NNTP-Posting-Host: ichthous lkinard@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Lyric Kinard) writes: >Does anyone have great ideas for easy pole bean supports? I'm planning to >put some beautiful scarlet runners and hyacinth bean vines in my garden >which will be right out in fron t where the world (and the sun) can see >them. Tipi's or trellises are fine but I don't know what to make them out >of and as per usual in my case, cost is the most important factor! My wife and I use thin-wall electrical conduit for trellising vines in our veggie garden. It comes in 10' lengths, which cost about $1-2 each, depending on the diameter you use. You can either drill holes and bolt the top crosspieces to the upright supports, or you can use conduit fittings (at $2-3 each), or you can get a conduit bending tool and bend it yourself. The standard conduit fittings look very clean, but there are no T fittings (just L fittings) so you're limited to a single crosspiece between two upright supports. We have a long row that we're trellising, so we're bolting it together; that way we only need one vertical support between each pair of top crosspieces. If you like the idea of using pipe, but want clean pipe fittings instead of bolting pieces together, plumbing pipe fittings do include T fittings. Darin.McGrew@Eng.Sun.COM The LORD said to him, "Who gave man his mouth? Who makes him deaf or dumb? Who gives him sight Soli Deo Gloria! or makes him blind? Is it not I, the LORD?" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!seberts.uoregon.edu!user Fri Feb 18 17:02:47 EST 1994 Article: 26700 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!seberts.uoregon.edu!user From: eberts@donald.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 11:26:16 -0800 Organization: U of O Lines: 46 Message-ID: References: <2jrcts$di8@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: seberts.uoregon.edu In article <2jrcts$di8@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca>, hmiddlet@uoguelph.ca (Heather Middleton) wrote: > Scott Fisher (sfisher@megatest.com) wrote: > > : I've described our project at length to exact pity for my plight. Any > : non-toxic remedies would be appreciated. Beer traps are out, as the > : teachers feel this would be worse than the chemicals. Sort of wierd to > : me, but I can see the point here, there's probably some ordinance against > : alcohol on the school premises. > umm, why is beer worse than chemicals? is it just the ordinance problem? as someone else suggested, brewers yeast and sugar will substitute. copper carries a small electric charge that can repel slugs (and humans don't feel), although this can get spendy. if you have framed beds, you can use screens (like what they use in screen doors) to make little slug scaled barbed wire fences by letting the strands point up and removing a few horizontal wires. (this won't prevent burrowing though). also, there is a type of soil amendment that consists primarily of crushed shells that is supposed to be very 'spikey'. for the life of me, i'm blanking out the name right now. 'diatomeceous earth' maybe?? natural predators - ducks (sadly, they also like sprouts), snakes, moles, among others. and nothing beats hand picking. early in the morning and right at dusk. offer prizes for who can snag the most. *don't* pulverize them and spread them back out. some slugs eat other slugs, in addition to plants. here in oregon, slugs are a major way of life. if you know if any other ways, please share! happy my tulips and daffodils are showing, and my peas are in the ground! -- "party people in the house it's a love thang." -tom tom club sonny hays-eberts eberts@donald.uoregon.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!koriel!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!ichthous!mcgrew Fri Feb 18 17:02:49 EST 1994 Article: 26701 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!koriel!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!ichthous!mcgrew From: mcgrew@ichthous.Eng.Sun.COM (Darin McGrew) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Square foot gardening Date: 16 Feb 1994 21:00:55 GMT Organization: Sun Lines: 49 Message-ID: References: <2joasa$46q@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> <1994Feb15.144709.20973@leo.vsla.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ichthous SGALLAGHER@RTP.VNET.IBM.COM writes: >OK, ya sold me! :-) Now, does anyone know the ISBN#? Seriously, I >want to pickup a copy. Bartholomew, Mel, _Square Foot Gardening_. Emmaus, PA: Rodale Press, 1981, 347 pages, photographs by John Hamel, illustrations by Erick Ingraham, ISBN 0-87857-340-2 (hardcover), ISBN 0-87857-341-0 (paperback). Presents a simple, easily followed gardening style for organic, intensive, flat- or raised-bed gardening. The author's experience with traditional community gardens motivated the design of a system that avoids the most common mistakes of beginning gardeners. Another book we've really liked is Ball, Jeff, _Jeff Ball's 60-Minute Vegetable Garden: Just One Hour a Week for the Most Productive Vegetable Garden Possible_. New York, NY: Collier Books, 1992, 228 pages, photographs by Liz Ball, illustrations by Frank Rohrbach 1st Collier Books edition, ISBN 0-02-030376-9 (paperback). First published as _Jeff Ball's 60-Minute Garden_. Emmaus, PA: Rodale Press, 1985. Presents numerous time-saving tools, devices, and techniques for organic, intensive, raised-bed gardening. Dispite the subtitle, his emphasis is on getting a good harvest with minimal effort, although he does point out ways that a few extra hours a week can help bring an excellent harvest. If you're in a coastal/Mediterranean climate, you may also like Peirce, Pam, _Golden Gate Gardening: The Complete Guide to Year-Round Food Gardening in the San Francisco Bay Area & Coastal California_. Davis, CA: agAccess, 1993, 397 pages, illustrations by Mimi Osborne, ISBN 0-932857-10-8 (paperback). This is easily the most useful book we've found for gardening in the San Francisco Bay Area and Coastal California. While it isn't as comprehensive as other books when it comes to general gardening topics (eg, soil amendments), it does thoroughly address the issues unique to our climate, with its mild winters and cool, foggy summers. Its illustrated compendium vegetables covers an amazing variety of familiar and unfamiliar crops, although a few crops that just don't do well anywhere in this region receive a rather cursory treatment. I don't mind its lack of photographs, but there aren't enough sketches, so I need another book to help identify the pests and diseases described. Also, some readers may wish that the information on flowers (both edible and ornamental) were as comprehensive as that on vegetables and herbs; flowers recieve a sufficient, but extremely concise treatement. Darin.McGrew@Eng.Sun.COM The LORD said to him, "Who gave man his mouth? Who makes him deaf or dumb? Who gives him sight Soli Deo Gloria! or makes him blind? Is it not I, the LORD?" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!news Fri Feb 18 17:02:52 EST 1994 Article: 26702 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!news From: HEIM@MACC.WISC.EDU (John Heim) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.birds Subject: Landscaping for Wildlife (Shrubs & Vines) Date: 16 Feb 1994 21:07:41 GMT Organization: UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN -- MADISON Lines: 545 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2ju1ut$npk@news.doit.wisc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: vms3.macc.wisc.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS v1.25 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:26702 rec.birds:8589 Landscaping for Wildlife Shrubs and Vines Below is a report from a database I've been putting together of plants useful in attracting wildlife to your yard. Right now I am working on planting some shrubs and/or vines in my yard so that's all I've included so far. Eventually I intend to add trees and both annual and perennial non-woody plants. Much of the information below is from documents sent to me by Christine Quinn. Also very useful was Walter E. Shultz's book "How to Attract, House and Feed Birds". Most of the information on growing these plants is from the J.W. Jung Seed & Nursery Co. catalog and from "The Readers Digest Complete Book of the Garden" The prices listed below are from the Jung catalog unless otherwise noted. I've included the price in my database primarily for my own benefit because I intend to order from Jung this year. I've included it here because I thought you might find it useful as well. I have no affiliation with Jung but I have order from them a lot in the past and have always been happy. Any corrections or additions you might have will be appreciated. Species: Arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Moist, w drain Zones: 3+ Height: 6-8 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Y Flowers: JUN Berries: OCT Seeds: Price: 4.95 Species attracted: Robin, bluebird, thrushes, catbird, vireo, flickers Notes: Species: Barberry, Japanese (Berberis thunbergii ) Location: Full sun Soil: Any Zones: 4+ Height: 3-6 ft Cover: Nesting: Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: 7.95 Species attracted: Mockingbirds, waxwings, sparrows Notes: Price is for 3 plants. "Thorns provide excellent cover and nesting." - Shultz Species: Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Sandy Zones: 3+ Height: Cover: Nesting: Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: Species attracted: 75 species Notes: "Best food producer in Easter states." - Shultz Species: Bittersweet (Celastrus loesneri ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Any Zones: 3+ Height: 20 ft vine Cover: Nesting: Flowers: AUG Berries: DEC Seeds: Price: 4.55 Species attracted: Songbirds, gamebirds Notes: Planting 2 or more will give better assurance of fruiting. Species: Blackberry (Rubus species ) Location: Sun Soil: Well drained Zones: 3+ Height: 4-6 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds: Price: 5.95 Species attracted: 97 bird species Notes: Price is for 3 plants. Species: Blackhaw (Viburnum prunifolium ) Location: Sun, shade Soil: Moist Zones: Height: 20 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Y Flowers: AUG Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Mockingbird, waxwings, thrushes Notes: Species: Blueberry (Vaccinium species ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Moist acid Zones: 5+ Height: 2-6 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: MAY Berries: SEP Seeds: Price: 5.95 Species attracted: Blubirds, thrushes, other songbirds Notes: Some varieties hardy to zone 3. Species: Buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica ) Location: Soil: Dry Zones: Height: 12 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Y Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Grouse, pheasants, finches, thrashers, waxwings Notes: "Good hedge" - Shultz Species: Burning bush (Euonymus alata ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Zones: 5+ Height: 4-5 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: Berries: DEC Seeds: YES Price: 6.95 Species attracted: Songbirds, pheasants Notes: Needs pruning for best results. Species: Butterfly Bush (Buddleis davidii ) Location: Full sun Soil: Well drainded Zones: 5+ Height: 2-8 ft Cover: Nesting: Flowers: AUG Berries: NO Seeds: Price: 4.95 Species attracted: Hummingbirds Notes: Blue, pink or white flowers. Species: Cardinal Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata ) Location: Soil: Zones: 4+ Height: 8-10 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: Berries: SEP Seeds: Price: 2.95 Species attracted: Songbirds Notes: Species: Coralberry (Symphoricarpus doore ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Zones: 5+ Height: 3-4 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: 5.95 Species attracted: Songbirds, gamebirds Notes: Species: Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster species ) Location: Sun Soil: Well drainded Zones: 3+ Height: 3-6 ft Cover: Nesting: Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: 5.95 Species attracted: Mockingbird, finches, and waxwings Notes: Price is for 3 plants Species: Cranberry, American (Viburnum trilobum ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Well drainded Zones: 3+ Height: 8-10 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: MAY Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: 5.95 Species attracted: Cardinals, waxwings, thrushes, finches, woodpeckers Notes: Species: Current, Red (Ribes species ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Any Zones: 3+ Height: 2-3 ft Cover: Nesting: Flowers: Berries: AUG Seeds: Price: 3.95 Species attracted: Catbird, jays, magpie, and robins Notes: Not compatable with white pine. Species: Dogwood (Cornus sericea ) Location: Sun Soil: Moist, wet Zones: 3+ Height: 6-8 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: AUG Berries: JAN Seeds: Price: 4.25 Species attracted: Catbird, downy woodpecker, thrushes, and finches Notes: Species: Elderberry (Sambucus species ) Location: Sun shade Soil: Well drained Zones: 3-9 Height: 6-8 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Y Flowers: AUG Berries: NOV Seeds: Price: 6.95 Species attracted: 115 birds Notes: Price is for 2 plants. One plant alone will not bear fruit. Species: Firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea ) Location: Sun Soil: Well drained Zones: Height: Cover: Nesting: Flowers: SEP Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Waxwings, mockingbirds, and thrushes Notes: Species: Greenbrier ( ) Location: Soil: Zones: Height: Cover: Y Nesting: Y Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Songbirds Notes: Species: Holly, Inkberry (Ilex glabra ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Moist Zones: 5+ Height: 10 ft vine Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Chickadee, titmouse, bobwhite, bluebird, robin, catbird Notes: Species: Holly, Oregon Grape (Mahonia aquifolium ) Location: Shade Soil: Moist acid Zones: 5+ Height: 4 ft vine Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: JUL Berries: SEP Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Songbirds Notes: Not a true holly. Species: Honeysuckle (Lonicera tatarica ) Location: Sun, part shade Soil: Any Zones: 3+ Height: 8-10 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Y Flowers: MAY Berries: YES Seeds: Price: 3.95 Species attracted: Hummingbirds, songbirds Notes: Species: Huckleberry, black ( ) Location: Soil: Zones: Height: Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: JUL Berries: AUG Seeds: Price: 1.10 Species attracted: Grosbeaks, towhees, bluebirds, robins, chickadees, catbirds Notes: Price is for seed packet. Species: Juniper (Juniperus chimemsis ) Location: Sun Soil: Well drainded Zones: 2+ Height: 2-10 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Y Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Songbirds Notes: Dense foliage provides cover. Species: Lilac (Syringa species ) Location: Full sun Soil: Neutral Zones: 3+ Height: 10-15 ft Cover: Nesting: Flowers: MAY Berries: NO Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Butterflies Notes: Species: Matrimony vine (Lycium halimifolium ) Location: Sun Soil: Any Zones: Height: 10 ft vine Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: AUG Berries: DEC Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Songbirds Notes: "Strong spines provide excellent cover" - Shultz Species: Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Any Zones: 3+ Height: 25 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Y Flowers: YES Berries: YES Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Grouse, pheasants, songbirds Notes: Suckers will form thickets. Species: Pasture rose (Rosa carolina ) Location: Sun Soil: Any Zones: 3+ Height: 3 ft Cover: Nesting: Y Flowers: AUG Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: Species attracted: 40 species Notes: "Strong spines provide best possible protection." - Shultz Species: Privet, Amur (Ligustrum amurense ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Not wet Zones: 3+ Height: 6 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: YES Berries: YES Seeds: Price: 9.95 Species attracted: Mockingbirds, waxwings, butterflies Notes: Price is for 10 plants. Species: Quince, flowering (Chaenomeles japonica ) Location: Sun, shade Soil: Well drainded Zones: Height: Cover: Nesting: Flowers: YES Berries: NO Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Hummingbirds Notes: Species: Raspberry (Red, Blk) (Rubus species ) Location: Full sun Soil: Any Zones: 2+ Height: 4-6 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Y Flowers: Berries: JUN Seeds: Price: 6.50 Species attracted: Songbirds Notes: Price is for 5 plants. Will form dense thicket. Species: Sand Cherry ( ) Location: Soil: Sandy Zones: Height: 3 ft Cover: Nesting: Flowers: JUL Berries: AUG Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Songbirds Notes: Species: Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadens ) Location: Sun, shade Soil: Any Zones: 3-7 Height: 10-20 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: Berries: JUL Seeds: Price: 5.98 Species attracted: Songbirds Notes: Price is from Henry Fields Seed Co. Species: Snowberry (Symphoricarpos hybri ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Zones: 4+ Height: 4-5 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: JUN Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: 4.95 Species attracted: Songbirds Notes: Species: Spirea, Blue Mist (Caryopteris incana ) Location: Full sun Soil: Any Zones: Height: Cover: Nesting: Flowers: YES Berries: NO Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Butterflies Notes: Species: Sumac, Cut Leaf (Rhus typhina ) Location: Soil: Any Zones: 3+ Height: 8-10 ft Cover: Y Nesting: Flowers: Berries: YES Seeds: Price: 5.95 Species attracted: Notes: Species: Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia ) Location: Soil: Zones: Height: Cover: Y Nesting: Y Flowers: Berries: AUG Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Songbirds Notes: Also called American Ivy. "Perhaps best producer of natural food for birds, plant wherever possible." - Shultz Species: Winterberry (Ilex verticillata ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Zones: Height: 10 ft vine Cover: Nesting: Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Songbirds Notes: Species: Withe rod (Viburnum cassinoides ) Location: Sun, pt shade Soil: Zones: Height: Cover: Nesting: Flowers: Berries: F-W Seeds: Price: Species attracted: Songbirds (35 species) Notes: Species: Yew, Japanese (Taxus species ) Location: Sun, shade Soil: Well drainded Zones: Height: Cover: Y Nesting: Y Flowers: Berries: NO Seeds: YES Price: Species attracted: Robin, mockingbird, sparrow Notes: From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:02:53 EST 1994 Article: 26703 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet From: saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seed source for cosican mint and wolly thyme Date: Wed, 16 Feb 94 16:56:39 PST Organization: University of California, Berkeley Lines: 26 Message-ID: <2jug76$2hq@agate.berkeley.edu> References: <19940201.00092730.tootie2@delphi.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: largo.ucop.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII > From: lkinard@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Lyric Kinard) > Newsgroups: rec.garden > Subject: Re: Seed source for cosican mint and wolly thyme > Message-ID: > Date: Tue, 01 Feb 94 14:34:33 EST > > Please post this! I've been looking for corsican mint for a while now. > Maybe Richters will have it? Has anyone tried this plant? Will it grow in > zone 7 with high heat and humidity? > > -Lyric Lyric - Yes, Richter's does sell PLANTS of this mint. I understand this plant to love moisture and growing between stones or pavers. I imagine it will do well in humidity, and perhaps heat as well. Mr. Richter comments that it is no very hardy in his area (Ontario, CA), but I'm sure it'll be fine in NC, USA. A good plant for anywhere you'll be able to sit and get a whiff of the fragrance as it is tread upon. Sean A. O'Hara, Oakland, Calif. (Zone 9) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.byu.edu!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:02:54 EST 1994 Article: 26704 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.byu.edu!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet From: saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: fig tree flowers (all you wanted to know, but were afraid to ask) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 94 17:14:27 PST Organization: University of California, Berkeley Lines: 46 Message-ID: <2juhg1$2hq@agate.berkeley.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: largo.ucop.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In article , writes: > Subject: fig trees > Message-ID: > Date: Tue, 1 Feb 1994 19:10:16 GMT > > Hello, fig lovers. > > I am growing two small Brown Turkey fig trees in my basement under high- > pressure sodium lights. They are two years old, taken from grafts, and > they are setting fruit for the first time. I am truly amazed that plants > in 12" pots would set fruit. But I am even more amazed that there are > no flowers. A friend of mine who has black mission fig trees in his yard > in Stockton, CA, tells me that he has never seen a fig tree flower, and yet > he harvests hundreds of figs during his twice-yearly harvests. Maybe I > am naive, but I did not know that this was possible. I AM REALLY AMAZED. > Anyone out there know the straight dope on fig tree reproduction. (We > did not have Fig Ed in my high school; they just expected us to pick it up > on the streets.) Ruth - As quoted from 'Home Grown Figs', Fine Gardening Magazine, Jan/Feb 1991 (a reasonable good and thorough article on this topic): 'The fig is an incredible and advanced fruit form, quite literally turned inside out. The friut is acutally a hollow receptacle that grows right on the branch. Enclosed within its skin are minute, soft segments, each with its own flower awaiting insect pollination. Wasps smaller than the commas on this page have evolved to accomplish pollination. Pollen dusted wasps fly from fruit to fruit, crawling through a small opening on the fig's soft under- side to lay their eggs, pollinating as they go. Not all fig produce viable pollen. To get around this problem, some trees are selected for pollen production rather than for fruit quality. Caprifigs (sometimes called 'goat figs') are produced by such trees; caprifigs are wasp-infested fruits grown on stud trees, and are picked and distributed about fig orchards to ensure fruit set. Most Old World fig plantations require this type of pollonation. Fortunately, some fig cultivars are self-pollinating, and do not need pollen or wasps to produce mature fruit. These cultivars are the basis of backyard fig-growing in America.' C.T. Kennedy, San Martin, Calif. Sean A. O'Hara, Oakland, Calif. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph844!yourch Fri Feb 18 17:02:55 EST 1994 Article: 26705 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!bnrgate!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph844!yourch From: yourch@brtph844.bnr.ca (James Yourch P265) Subject: Re: Pruning Crapemyrtles Sender: news@brtph560.bnr.ca (Usenet News) Message-ID: <1994Feb16.203151.13826@brtph560.bnr.ca> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 20:31:51 GMT Distribution: usa Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP Lines: 33 fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq Butt) writes: >It's almost spring here and I am noticing commercial landscape >companies are pruning the bejabbers out of the Crapemrytles >that are planted at malls, roadsides etc. What's the deal ? >Should I be following suit with mine ? Because crapemyrtles bloom on new wood, pruning them hard results in many new shoots which produce more flowers. Although hard pruning does result in more flowers, IMHO it makes the plant look homely during the rest of the year, particularly in winter. A crapemyrtle that is thinned and lightly headed back every year produces plenty of flowers but does not sacrifice the beautiful branching that can be appreciated in winter. If you want to have a crapemyrtle tree that is beautiful in all seasons, then my advice is to go easy and not prune the bejabbers out of them. If you only care about the flowers or need to keep your crapemyrtle small then go ahead and cut away. In my opinion most commercial landscape companies have no clue how to prune anything. Don't follow their examples. Just because someone pays them does not mean that they know how to prune properly. A good, inexpensive guide to pruning is Ortho's All about Pruning, a magazine-sized paperback that can be found in many garden centers and hardware stores. Good Luck, Jay From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.uiowa.edu!panda Fri Feb 18 17:02:57 EST 1994 Article: 26706 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.uiowa.edu!panda From: geoff johnson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: orchids help Date: 16 Feb 1994 22:52:21 GMT Organization: U of Iowa Panda System Lines: 10 Distribution: inet Message-ID: <761438692-0-15784@chop.isca.uiowa.edu> Reply-To: sidhe@chop.isca.uiowa.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: chop.isca.uiowa.edu I have started growing orchids and had a moth orchid lose most of its flowers from transporting it. Does anyone have any good mail order addresses(with cost of catalog) And can anybody give me the full names of orchids which are easy to keep. THANKS> --- GLJOHNSON IV From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!news.clark.net!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:02:58 EST 1994 Article: 26707 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!news.clark.net!not-for-mail From: jcp@clark.net (Jody C. Patilla) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Transplanting people... Date: 16 Feb 1994 22:03:15 -0500 Organization: Fluffy Otter Kindercare Lines: 20 Message-ID: <2jumpj$khg@explorer.clark.net> References: <19940206.23470855.katew@delphi.com> <1994Feb7.185626.9894@brtph560.bnr.ca> <1994Feb15.004019.19050@casbs.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: explorer.clark.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In article <1994Feb15.004019.19050@casbs.stanford.edu>, Kathleen Much wrote: >Whoa! I was born and raised in the South (Houston, Texas), and we >sure didn't call pecans 'pee cans'. My grandmother had a yard full of >the yummy critters, called 'pe-CAHNZ'. Fortunately, my mother still >sends me care packages of southern pecans now that I live in >California. As a girl, I was carefully instructed by a Texas-born Baptist minister and his Louisiana-born wife, that pee-CAHNZ grew on trees, but a PEE-can was something you kept under the bed! :-) -- jcpatilla jcp@clark.net "Fling your beavers aloft!" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.uiowa.edu!panda Fri Feb 18 17:02:59 EST 1994 Article: 26708 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.uiowa.edu!panda From: geoff johnson Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.agriculture.misc Subject: Re: Info on Butterfly gardens? Date: 16 Feb 1994 22:56:00 GMT Organization: U of Iowa Panda System Lines: 9 Distribution: inet Message-ID: <761438912-1-15784@chop.isca.uiowa.edu> References: <1994Feb16.101227.3780@tower> Reply-To: sidhe@chop.isca.uiowa.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: chop.isca.uiowa.edu Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:26708 alt.agriculture.misc:583 I don't have it now but I think I can get the Address of the Bellevue Butterfly Gardens in Bellevue, Iowa. --- GLJOHNSON IV From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!news.bu.edu!att-in!cbnewsc!bermes Fri Feb 18 17:03:00 EST 1994 Article: 26709 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!news.bu.edu!att-in!cbnewsc!bermes From: bermes@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (Terry Bermes) Subject: Coffee Filters in compost pile? Organization: AT&T Looney Bin Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 19:25:23 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 8 Hello, Recently I've started collecting cans of coffee grounds and filters from work and dumping them in my compost pile. The problem, I think, is that it seems to be much more filter than coffee. Do any of you more experienced composters have any feelings or knowledge one way or another regarding this? terry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!cvbnet!cvbnet.CV.COM!dkaplan Fri Feb 18 17:03:01 EST 1994 Article: 26710 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!linus!cvbnet!cvbnet.CV.COM!dkaplan From: dkaplan@cvbnet.CV.COM (Debbie Kaplan x6084) Subject: Re: Help: What to plant in shady area Message-ID: Sender: usenet@cvbnet.CV.COM (News Account ) Nntp-Posting-Host: hazel Organization: CV Core User Interface References: <2jeeth$a80@dude.agcs.com> <16F5D7D4B.KAPLAN@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 20:56:39 GMT Lines: 38 Many native plants of the north-east make good shade plants. I tend to use mostly natives with some cultivated varieties. Shade area plants that I've used: Kalmia - mountain laurel - big bunches of white/pink flowers in June. Willowy form, evergreen leaves - 5-8' Azalea - various deciduous varieties - I like the fragrant native species best, flower colors are pink, white, yellow, orange. The pinks and whites are the fragrant ones among the natives. The yellows, oranges and whites bloom as late as early July. 6' Evergreen rhododendrons - There are many small-leaved smaller stature varieties. caroliniana? is a relatively low-growing native. "Purple Gem" is not native, but one of my favorites - 2', very small leaves, covered with purple blossoms in mid-spring. Perennials Epimedium - ground cover - beautiful, small, delicate flowers in spring, heart shaped leaves ( not a native ). Columbines Hostas - a mainstay of shade gardens; the yellow and variegated leaved varieties really light up a dark corner. Low-bush blueberry - dug from the nearby woods - you won't find these in a nursery. Dicentra - bleeding heart Wintergreen - 2" ground cover - native - white flowers, red berries Canada mayflower - 4" ground cover - native - white flowers Ferns - many varieties - I like hay-scented, lady fern, and polypody. There are lots of others. Not many veggies, though. There's an excellent book called something like Shade Gardening by Schenk?? Sorry I can't be more specific, but it's a GREAT book. Categorization by different levels of shade. Lots of good practical experience. Good luck, Debbie dkaplan@cvbnet.cv.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user Fri Feb 18 17:03:02 EST 1994 Article: 26711 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user From: karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) Subject: Re: Square foot gardening Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: Naval Research Lab References: <1994Feb13.150816.22601@es.dupont.com> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 08:05:06 GMT Lines: 26 In article <1994Feb13.150816.22601@es.dupont.com>, reynolse@esvx17.es.dupont.com wrote: > I am reading Mel Bartholamew's(?) "Square Foot Gardening". I would > appreciate any comments pro/con. or any tips for a rookie. > > Regards, > Steve Like the other posters, i've gotten alot out of his methods. In the years since i first started, i've changed only a few things. In particular, i found that the chicken-wire+plastic cages that he makes for protection etc were too cumbersome to make, use, and store (talk about torn up fingers!), so i've since switched to hoops and row covers or plastic (depending on conditions). Much easier, and much less space intensive since the "hoops" can be bent flat again for storage when not in use. Otherwise it is a great book, IMHO, and well worth every penny. I still use his formulae for fertilizers, something i couldnt find in most other books. note: i am in zone 7 (Maryland) FWIW -- Judy Karpen "pushing back the frontiers of science...." karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil Code 7675K, NRL, Washington DC 20375-5352 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!tinman.dev.prodigy.com!philabs!brf Fri Feb 18 17:03:03 EST 1994 Article: 26712 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.ans.net!tinman.dev.prodigy.com!philabs!brf From: brf@philabs.philips.com (Bill Friday) Subject: looking for flower growing database Message-ID: <1994Feb17.014106.29692@philabs.philips.com> Keywords: flowers, database Sender: news@philabs.philips.com (Mr. C. News) Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff NY Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 01:41:06 GMT Lines: 13 Does anyone now where I can get (free via ftp preferred) a database or flat file that contains flower data to help design flower gardens? Please respond with e-mail. Thanks in advance. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bill Friday Domain: brf@philabs.philips.com Network Administrator UUCP: uunet!philabs!brf Communications and Computing Resources SERI: BRF:USPLAB Philips Laboratories Voice: (914) 945-6087 Briarcliff Manor, NY USA 10510 Fax: (914) 945-6552 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Fri Feb 18 17:03:04 EST 1994 Article: 26713 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: roses along ornamental iron fence Date: 16 Feb 1994 23:13:00 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 26 Message-ID: <2ju99s$otr@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: kanga.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, fms@chemelex .com (Fred Schenkelberg) says: >Our yard is split by a 5' ornamental iron (black) to 'guard' the >pool area. We would like to plant roses along the fense to >enhance the 'guard' aspect and to 'beautify' the fence to some >extent. We're in zone 14 in the San Francisco Bay area and >wonder which type and name of rose would work in this situation. Rugosas would be very good; they quickly grow to about 5-6 ft(but can be trimmed back) have vicious thorns, and are nearly impossible to kill. They also offer big, spicy scented blossoms--most smell strongly of cloves. They do, however, attract a lot of bees, so if that is a problem you might want to try some of the newer Meidland self-rooted shrubs like Bonica. Nearly Wild might be another good choice; it isn't a Meidland, but is a very pretty shrub rose that doesn't get as big as most Rugosas. Hope this helps. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * "Sleeplessness is like metaphysics. A-B College * Be there." Philippi, WV * * ----Charles Simic---- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!eff!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!yale!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu!KAPLAN Fri Feb 18 17:03:05 EST 1994 Article: 26714 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!eff!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!yale!yale.edu!news.yale.edu!YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu!KAPLAN From: KAPLAN@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu (Reid Kaplan) Subject: Re: roses along ornamental iron fence Message-ID: <16F5FE46F.KAPLAN@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.Edu> Sender: news@news.yale.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: yaleads.ycc.yale.edu Organization: Yale University References: Date: Wed, 16 Feb 94 16:14:36 EST Lines: 16 In article fms@chemelex .com (Fred Schenkelberg) writes: >Our yard is split by a 5' ornamental iron (black) to 'guard' the >pool area. We would like to plant roses along the fense to >enhance the 'guard' aspect and to 'beautify' the fence to some >extent. We're in zone 14 in the San Francisco Bay area and >wonder which type and name of rose would work in this situation. > I don't want to rain on your parade, but metal fences or trellises, especially black ones, get awful hot. Hot enough to fry plants (humans, too). You may want to think about insulating portions of it or providing a standoff structure that the roses can be tied to. ...Reid Kaplan From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!pavo.concordia.ca!sorin_d Fri Feb 18 17:03:06 EST 1994 Article: 26715 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!pavo.concordia.ca!sorin_d From: sorin_d@pavo.concordia.ca (DAMIAN, SORIN) Subject: Seeds of hipophae rhamnoides Message-ID: <16FEB199422253195@pavo.concordia.ca> News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Sender: usenet@newsflash.concordia.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: pavo7.concordia.ca Organization: Concordia University Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 03:25:00 GMT Lines: 0 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!wave.scar!manitou.astro.utoronto.ca!harper Fri Feb 18 17:03:07 EST 1994 Article: 26716 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!wave.scar!manitou.astro.utoronto.ca!harper From: harper@manitou.utoronto.ca (John Harper) Subject: Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Originator: harper@manitou.astro.utoronto.ca Sender: usenet@wave.scar.utoronto.ca Nntp-Posting-Host: manitou.astro.utoronto.ca Organization: Dept. of Astronomy, U of Toronto, Scarborough Campus Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 00:32:23 GMT Lines: 34 > Scott Fisher (sfisher@megatest.com) wrote: > > : I've described our project at length to exact pity for my plight. Any > : non-toxic remedies would be appreciated. Beer traps are out, as the > : teachers feel this would be worse than the chemicals. Sort of wierd to > : me, but I can see the point here, there's probably some ordinance against > : alcohol on the school premises. > I was perusing a book about pests today in one of the downtown bookstores ("The Worlds Biggest Bookstore"!) and the author had a number of suggestions about dealing with both slugs and snails. Slugs: - hit them with a spray of 50/50 vineger/water - apparently this is fatal (but beware damage to plants). - fresh (?) lime juice is also fatal. (that's what it said) - (my suggestion: half-inch diameter holes several inches deep in the dirt, slugs crawl in in the morning for a place to hide, later a big stick makes them into mash) Snails - (I didn't quite understand this, but:) finely cut up hair (human or otherwise, my guess is into 1/4" - 1/8" bits) and sprinkle where snails may crawl. They get the bits all over them, and eventually dehydrate trying to get it off. (I think that's what happens, but that it was bits of hair to control snails I am sure. Don't know why it wouldn't work for slugs too). Hope this helps, John From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha Fri Feb 18 17:03:08 EST 1994 Article: 26717 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha From: martha@baervan.nmt.edu (Martha Cather) Subject: Re: Horse manure: toxic waste! Message-ID: <1994Feb17.035339.17392@nmt.edu> Sender: news@nmt.edu (News software) Nntp-Posting-Host: baervan Organization: PRRC-New Mexico Tech, Socorro NM References: <2jqr4l$j0f@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 03:53:39 GMT Lines: 17 In article <2jqr4l$j0f@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> ah238@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Joseph Zupko) writes: > >I was told that horse manureshould be in the compost pile for a year >because the urine other substance that the stables use to wash the floors >may be still in the manure. >-- It depends on whether they use something to wash stalls with, and whether they pick up just manure or all wet bedding for the same piles. Lots of barns, especially here in the west, just use the ground as a floor and don't wash stalls. I have my horses in a large pen, and they don't usually pee where they poop. I stack my manure then use it once a year in the garden. I still don't like it as well as cow manure, but mushrooms love it. Martha in NM email: martha@baervan.nmt.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!sfisher Fri Feb 18 17:03:09 EST 1994 Article: 26718 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!megatest!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advice needed Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <11FEB94.22171881@shrsys.hslc.org> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 1994 21:38:33 GMT Lines: 35 In article <11FEB94.22171881@shrsys.hslc.org> bshoop@shrsys.hslc.org writes: >I am planning on putting in a large rose bed, eventually 30ft by 4 ft. My >problem is that the soil has about 4 inches of poor topsoil and the rest is >very heavy clay. I planted one bush last year, dug a large hole, filled it > [snip] >My QUESTION is this (finally)... Should I just replace all that clay with >topsoil (very expensive) or is there a way to enrich/improve the clay soil >so that it will be suitable for roses and other perennials? I have a little >experience with composting, but normally in the garden and only 8 inches deep. >What type of compost strategy will work with two 1/2 feet of clay soil? > >Any advice, or solutions would be greatly appreciated!!!!! I deal with clay here in N. Calif. While I agree with the postings so far regarding organic material, mulch, peat moss, bone meal etc., I add the following ingredient: vermiculite. I painstakingly double dug out my garden plots, and for every cubic foot of organic material I added, I added about the same amount of vermiculite. I really increases the friability of the soil, without being too sandy. I get big bags at my garden center for about $12, not the little tiny bags you see sometimes near the indoor plant potting soil displays. Last week I finally got around to digging up all my frost-bitten peppers, and dug in some more soil amendments, the ground is still rich, friable and not clayey at all. The trick would also be, after you dig out your rosebeds, to adopt a continuous mulching plan (compatible with roses, the rose experts here can give you better advice on how to do this) It doesn't take too much time or money to keep your soil good, after you spend a little effort to get it that way. --Good Luck --Kim FIsher From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uknet!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!galadriel!pjw Fri Feb 18 17:03:10 EST 1994 Article: 26719 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uknet!zaphod.axion.bt.co.uk!galadriel!pjw From: pjw@galadriel.bt.co.uk (Peter Willis) Subject: When does gorse bloom ? Message-ID: Organization: BTLabs, Martlesham, Ipswich, UK X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2 (SPA)] Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 13:07:11 GMT Lines: 10 I've noticed that here in Suffolk, England, there is very little gorse in bloom this winter on the local heath land. However at the same time last year there was lots of bloom. Does any one know why ? Does gorse only bloom once every 2 years ? -- _______________________________________________________________________________ Peter Willis, Telephone: 0473 644377 MLB 4/37, Fax: 0473 644506 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!news.wesleyan.edu!eagle.wesleyan.edu!jbrooks Fri Feb 18 17:03:11 EST 1994 Article: 26720 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!news.wesleyan.edu!eagle.wesleyan.edu!jbrooks Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Square foot gardening Message-ID: <1994Feb17.093926.1@eagle.wesleyan.edu> From: jbrooks@eagle.wesleyan.edu Date: 17 Feb 94 09:39:26 EST References: <1994Feb13.150816.22601@es.dupont.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: wesleyan.edu Lines: 21 In article <1994Feb13.150816.22601@es.dupont.com>, reynolse@esvx17.es.dupont.com writes: > I am reading Mel Bartholamew's(?) "Square Foot Gardening". I would > appreciate any comments pro/con. or any tips for a rookie. Good approach as you really want to avoid getting caught up in Mel's crazy enthusiasm (ever see his tv series?). First off, all Mel did was restructure French Intensive Gardening practices from 100 years ago so its nothing new, he does make it far easier to understand by making everything so structured, though. I did one season trying to follow him "by the book" and got to frustrated being to exact with everything. Now I use alot of his techniques of planting closely, interplanting, not walking on the planting beds, using tricky space-saving apparatus and all tha{, and have great results. I find I get very good yeilds and do much less weeding than I used to. I find one of the best things about this is that arranging things in blocks and areas makes it much easier to plan the garden and then to prepare and plant the soil little by little to avoid doing too much at once. If you have any more specific questions feel free to e-mail me Jeff From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!cmcl2!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones Fri Feb 18 17:03:12 EST 1994 Article: 26721 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!cmcl2!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones From: bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) Subject: Re: Will spring bulbs keep? Message-ID: X-Disclaimer: Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of NVL Sender: usenet@nvl.army.mil Nntp-Posting-Host: 140.183.12.36 Reply-To: bajones@nvl.army.mil Organization: Night Vision Labs, Ft Belvoir, VA References: <1994Feb16.142148.33489@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 14:09:30 GMT Lines: 29 In article <1994Feb16.142148.33489@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu> lrp2@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (LYNN REBECCA PERRY) writes: >>> ... bulbs not yet planted because site not ready - will they keep? >> >>In my opinion, they won't keep. They will attempt to grow even if still >>in their paper bag, and this will prove fatal if they don't find any >>soil, nutrient, light, water etc. >> >But, it you keep the bulbs cold, they would stay dormant waiting for the >temperatures to warm up. If you still have warm enough temperatures to plant >them, do so. They will grow their roots and you should have bulbs in the >spring. the other option is to plant them somewhere else and transplant them. >Good Luck >Lynn >-- > I'm not too sure about the above advice - I just found some hyacinth bulbs that have been in my refridgerator since Sept that have 2" long shoots growing out the tops. Can they be considered dormant if they are growing shoots? -- Elizabeth Jones E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil "A home without a cat, and a well-fed, well-petted, and properly revered cat, may be a perfect home, *perhaps*, but how can it prove its title?" Mark Twain From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke Fri Feb 18 17:03:12 EST 1994 Article: 26723 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: MIMOSA TREES Message-ID: <1994Feb17.141836.4136@lsl.co.uk> Date: 17 Feb 94 14:18:36 +0100 References: <2js41g$6bj@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 40 In article <2js41g$6bj@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu>, haldas@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu (Gene Haldas) writes: > Does anyone out there know how long it takes for mimosa seeds to > germinate? And what sort of medium is best used to get a few trees > started? For starters I used a mix of peat moss and sand. > Any information would be appreciated. Mimosa is a member of the Leguminosae (peas etc.), right? My experience is that many members of the Leguminosae have very impervious seed coats and can take a very long time to absorb water, which they need to do before they germinate. Some may germinate easily, so the following may be unnecessary. If you have plenty seed to experiment, then try putting some in water. Do they swell up after a day, or maybe several days? If they do, then sow and they will soon come up. If they don't swell in water, then it's a good sign that they will be even slower to take up water in soil. In this case, I try 'chipping' a few. This might be by cutting off a tiny bit of seed coat, pricking with a pin, or using sandpaper. Do this on the rounded, opposite side of the seed from the 'eye'. If you do damage the embryo on this side, then you will only be damaging the edges of the seed leaves, which is not necessarily fatal. If your chipping has got through the seed coat, then the seeds will swell quickly in water, and soon germinate. Sometimes I leave the seeds on a piece of wet tissue paper, and only sow once a root emerges. This has the advantage that you can sow directly into a reasonably sized pot, and avoid the disturbance of trying to separate out seedlings from each other, and from still un-germinated seed. Species of Leguminosae to which I have successfully applied this technique include Colutea arborescens, Clianthus puniceus and formosus (dampieri), Hardenbergia comptoniana, Sophora secundiflora, and Coronilla valentina. As I said, maybe don't do it to all your seeds. Some just don't appreciate the attempt to accelerate them, and rot instead of growing e.g. the Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus) - just sow in soil and up they come. -- Clarke Brunt (CCB), Principal Software Engineer, Laser-Scan Ltd, Science Park, Milton Rd, CAMBRIDGE, CB4 4FY, England. Tel (+44) 223 420414; Fax 420044, Email CLARKE@LSL.CO.UK (via BRITAIN.EU.NET) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Fri Feb 18 17:03:13 EST 1994 Article: 26724 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Info on Butterfly gardens? Message-ID: <1994Feb17.091301.23007@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 17 Feb 94 09:13:01 -0600 References: <1994Feb16.101227.3780@tower> <761438912-1-15784@chop.isca.uiowa.edu> Distribution: inet Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 9 In article <761438912-1-15784@chop.isca.uiowa.edu>, geoff johnson writes: > I don't have it now but I think I can get the Address of the Bellevue > Butterfly Gardens in Bellevue, Iowa. With a population of 2500, I strongly suspect that anything addressed to "Butterfly Garden, Bellevue, IA" is gonna get to the intended recipient... Kay Klier (who used to get mail addressed just to "Kay, Slater, IA" when she lived in a town of 1500...) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke Fri Feb 18 17:03:14 EST 1994 Article: 26725 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mesembryanthemum Advice needed Message-ID: <1994Feb17.170144.4137@lsl.co.uk> Date: 17 Feb 94 17:01:44 +0100 References: <2jqtda$cuk@netnews.upenn.edu> Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 27 In article <2jqtda$cuk@netnews.upenn.edu>, rbuck@netnews.upenn.edu (Rebecca Buck) writes: > I've been trying to start some lithops et. al from seed > without knowing the precise conditions they need. Any > advice would be appreciated! Lithops usually germinate quite quickly, from a few days to a week or two. They don't need high temperatures, and the conditions in a hot and steamy propagator often cause them to come up and succumb to damping off disease all within the space of a few days. So, I would say surface sow in a temperature of 60-70F/15-21C, maybe cover pots with paper or something, but don't put inside a plastic bag or suchlike. Once up, give planty light and air, but avoid the hottest sun. Don't let them dry out, but equally, don't keep them soaking wet. I sometimes try to sprinkle top-dressing gravel around the seedlings, but this is a bit tricky as they are so small - maybe the gravel should be sprinkled over the seeds at the time they are sown - my purpose is to keep the soil surface layer, in which the plants' tiny roots are, from drying, and also from getting moss and algae on it. They can probably be kept in the original pots for maybe a year. In early life, they are happy to grow new bodies fairly continuously, before they settle into their adult 'one new body per year' lifestyle. You said Lithops et. al. Some of the 'et al' can be considerably more vigorous, and may need transplanting sooner. -- Clarke Brunt (CCB), Principal Software Engineer, Laser-Scan Ltd, Science Park, Milton Rd, CAMBRIDGE, CB4 4FY, England. Tel (+44) 223 420414; Fax 420044, Email CLARKE@LSL.CO.UK (via BRITAIN.EU.NET) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:03:15 EST 1994 Article: 26726 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!not-for-mail From: WERTZG@NAPC-1.NAVY.MIL (SYSTEM) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Climbing roses Date: 17 Feb 1994 11:41:28 -0600 Organization: UTexas Mail-to-News Gateway Lines: 17 Sender: daemon@cs.utexas.edu Message-ID: <9402171741.AA19474@cs.utexas.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: cs.utexas.edu I have a concrete retaining wall topped by a railing running along my driveway. 'Ground level' is at the top of the wall. Would it be possible to plant climbing roses behind the wall and train them to climb DOWN the wall? Just curious, Greg. *============================================================================* > NN NN A WW WW WW CCCCCC TTTTTTTT Greg Wertz (a.k.a. Hobs) < > NNN NN A A WW WW WW CC -- TT VAX System Manager < > NN NNN AAAAA WWWWWW CC -- TT E-mail: wertzg@napc-1.navy.mil < > NN NN AA AA WWWW CCCCCC TT IP_Address: 192.133.5.1 < > Naval Air Warfare Center - Trenton < *============================================================================* From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Fri Feb 18 17:03:16 EST 1994 Article: 26727 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: help with carrots Message-ID: <1994Feb17.172733.14256@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <1994Feb3.022119.12404@k12.ucs.umass.edu> <9402132318591.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 17:27:33 GMT Lines: 20 In article <9402132318591.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) writes: > I have had no success >trying to plant carrot seeds individually using the square-foot method that >is my general practice. I broadcast the seed in the area I have marked out >for them and weed weekly. Once the seeds have sprouted, a typical weeding >session also uproots a number of the seedlings, thinning them out in the >process. I continue to weed and thin agressively until harvest time. At some >point in the process, the thinnings are big enough to eat and are great >steamed. I won't argue with success, but I've had fine carrots from the single-seed square-foot method. The only problem was keeping a succession of carrots going--we ate them too fast. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!wujek!kk Fri Feb 18 17:03:16 EST 1994 Article: 26728 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!wujek!kk From: kk@wujek.durham.nc.us (Krzysztof Kozminski) Subject: Re: MIMOSA TREES Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 17:51:52 GMT References: <2js41g$6bj@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> <1994Feb17.141836.4136@lsl.co.uk> Organization: Relative Software, Inc. Lines: 23 In article <1994Feb17.141836.4136@lsl.co.uk> clarke@lsl.co.uk writes: >In article <2js41g$6bj@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu>, haldas@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu (Gene Haldas) writes: >> Does anyone out there know how long it takes for mimosa seeds to >> germinate? And what sort of medium is best used to get a few trees >> started? For starters I used a mix of peat moss and sand. >> Any information would be appreciated. > >Mimosa is a member of the Leguminosae (peas etc.), right? >In this case, I try 'chipping' a few. This might be by cutting off a tiny >bit of seed coat, pricking with a pin, or using sandpaper. Do this on >the rounded, opposite side of the seed from the 'eye'. A corroboration of the above: 3 years ago I did precisely this with the mimosa (Albizzia julibrissin) seeds. Scarification by chipping off about 1/4mm worth of the seed coat (the resulting hole about 1/2 by 1mm, the light interior of the seed clearly exposed). Medium: Jiffy-7 pellets, covered to prevent evaporation, stored on the top of the fridge to keep them comfy. Germination about 95% within 1-2 weeks. KK -- Kris Kozminski (kk@wujek.durham.nc.us) "Limit congressmen to two terms. One in office. One in jail." From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!noao!news Fri Feb 18 17:03:17 EST 1994 Article: 26729 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!noao!news From: craig@umbra.sunspot.noao.edu (Craig Gullixson) Subject: Re: Mountain phenology report Message-ID: <1994Feb17.173215.21662@noao.edu> Sender: news@noao.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: umbra.sunspot.noao.edu Reply-To: craig@umbra.sunspot.noao.edu Organization: National Solar Observatory/SP References: <2k00vm$10m@balsam.unca.edu> Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 17:32:15 GMT Lines: 15 >From Sunspot, NM (9250 feet, southern NM) My yellow snow lillies (?) started blooming yesterday. The hyathcinths, tulips, and crocuses have been emerging the last couple of weeks. Have a silly daffodil with a bud thinking of blooming since mid december --- Its been a warm dry winter (current highs are in the mid- upper 40's). ________________________________________________________________________ Craig A. Gullixson Senior Research Associate INTERNET: craig@sunspot.noao.edu National Solar Observatory/Sac. Peak PHONE: (505) 434-7065 Sunspot, NM 88349 USA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u18183 Fri Feb 18 17:03:19 EST 1994 Article: 26730 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u18183 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, ADN Computer Center Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 11:19:15 CST From: Message-ID: <94048.111915U18183@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Hop growing suggestions? Lines: 17 Im not sure anyone here can help me, but..... I am growing hops (humulus lupulus) for homebrewing purposes in my backyard. All recommendations I have seen are to allow this vine to climb upward to its usual length of 25 to 35 feet high. This is impractical for me to do in my backyard, so what I am considering is to have the hop bines run up about 10 feet and then try to train them to grow horizontally instead of vertically, along some wires. Is this possible? Do these plants genetically HAVE to grow upward? Can I train them to increase their length horizontally thru the summer? Will this adversely effect the production? Thanks. Paul Sovcik University of Illinois at Chicago From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Fri Feb 18 17:03:20 EST 1994 Article: 26732 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Growing potatoes above ground Message-ID: <21@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 17 Feb 94 14:47:25 GMT References: Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 11 clb5q@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Cheryl L. Boyd) writes: > Has anyone had experience with growing potatos by just laying > them on top of the beds and covering them over with 6" of straw > or rotted hay mulch? I don't grow potatoes *entirely* above ground, but I do use a heavy mulch of hay and straw. This mulch should be AT LEAST 12 inches thick, possibly thicker, to avoid green potatoes. I place unsprouted, whole seed potatoes so that they are half buried in the soil, no closer than one per square foot. If I can, I prefer to use pre-sprouted potatoes. These I place in shallow holes and v-e-r-y gently cover with loose soil. (The soil supports/protects the fragile sprouts when you pile the hay on.) Next I mulch with old hay and/or straw, piling it up about 12" deep. I use some huge old pla nks tied together at the corners to confine the mulch to the potato bed. (My garden consists of 4' x 8' permanent beds, separated by paths mulched with old carpet.) Later in the season, I will add more hay as the original mulch settles. The majority of the tubers are formed at the surface, with an occasional spud below ground. As I harvest potatoes, I throw the mulch on top of the rest of the bed. I never harvest more than I need for a particular meal, and use the heavy mulch to store the potatoes _in situ_ as long as possible. (I would think if your mulch was thick enough, this could be all winter. I can't say, as we manage to eat all of our potatoes before the end of December...) -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:03:20 EST 1994 Article: 26733 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!destroyer!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet From: saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help with a Chinese Hibiscus Date: Thu, 17 Feb 94 11:05:21 PST Organization: University of California, Berkeley Lines: 36 Message-ID: <2k0fpq$m49@agate.berkeley.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: largo.ucop.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In article , writes: > Date: Fri, 4 Feb 1994 14:29:31 GMT > Lines: 19 > This isn't exactly a gardening question but as I have noticed that > there are postings about houseplants, I thought that someone might be > able to help me with a problem I am having with a Chinese Hibiscus. > > Usually the leaves on the plant are a very dark green but for the past > month, they have been a much lighter shade of green. For the past week, > the leaves have been getting yellow spots all over them and now they > are starting to fall off. I have inspected the leaves and I found some > whiteflies. I sprayed all the leaves and the undersides of them but I > don't think that should cause all the leaves to fall off. Maria - Sounds to me like there has been a significant change in the light- ing for this plant. I assume it is indoors for the winter - has there been a lot less light now that the sun has dropped lower in the sky? Also, the plant may be suffering from dry, heated indoor air as well. Hibiscus are good at tolerating conditions like this and coming back when put outdoors later in the spring/summer. Try giving more light, slightly cooler temps, and more humidity (a large saucer with pebbles under the pot, kept full of water - but not up to the pot bottom - will help here). Misting is good but does not have a lasting effect (unless you stand there and re-mist each 1/2 hour!). Good Luck! Sean A. O'Hara, Oakland, Calif. > Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. > > -- > b From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf Fri Feb 18 17:03:21 EST 1994 Article: 26734 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Beekeeping Newsgroup: Please Participate! Message-ID: Followup-To: news.groups Summary: discussion of new beekeeping group Sender: adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. References: <1453300477@cdp> Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 15:32:58 GMT Lines: 30 In article <1453300477@cdp>, Libby Goldstein wrote: >Adam, will you be posting a note about rec.bees or whatever here >in rec.gardens when the conf starts up? > >Libby Hi beekeepers. Please join the discussion on the possible new beekeeping newsgroup in < news.groups >. In your article please address some of the following issues: Why have this group if there is already a bee listserve? What will this group's charter be: e.g." discussion of all aspects of beekeeping and bee products" Is this name: sci.agriculture.beekeeping, one to keep, or should it be changed. Other names proposed: sci.agriculture.bees, rec.husbandry.bee-culture. Other issues? Does the group want to be moderated? If so who and how? What about a FAQ? How will we get questions, who will archive them, who will organize the FAQ. It would be nice to have a FAQ to post, asap. Other stuff? Adam -- =============================================================================== Adam Finkelstein VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801 703-433-1006 (V) 703-434-5607 (Fax) 703-564-4394 (Pager) adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu |Bees To Please| ================================================================================ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.intercon.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!ccwf.cc.utexas.edu!daoffer Fri Feb 18 17:03:22 EST 1994 Article: 26735 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!udel!news.intercon.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!ccwf.cc.utexas.edu!daoffer From: daoffer@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Debora Offer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Thanks for Fruiting Trees & Mail Order help Date: 17 Feb 94 13:08:27 Organization: The University of Texas at Austin Lines: 8 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sleepy.cc.utexas.edu I just wanted to thank everyone who replied to my request for advice. Looks like I can't grow paw paws here but I'm going to take a chance on the rest of the stuff. -- Please reply to the following address. The old one (ccwf) is running at 4 times overcapacity! \__ __/ Debora offer@arlut.utexas.edu \__ __/ T any opinions expressed are mine, not necessarily my employers T From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!news Fri Feb 18 17:03:23 EST 1994 Article: 26736 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!news From: HEIM@MACC.WISC.EDU (John Heim) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Landscaping for Wildlife (Shrubs & Vines) Date: 17 Feb 1994 19:41:42 GMT Organization: UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN -- MADISON Lines: 3 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2k0h9m$5ib@news.doit.wisc.edu> References: <2ju1ut$npk@news.doit.wisc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: vms3.macc.wisc.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS v1.25 In-Reply-To: HEIM@MACC.WISC.EDU's message of 16 Feb 1994 21:07:41 GMT I forgot to mention that I can email this database to you in comma delimited ASCII format. Let me know via email. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!fig.lib.utexas.edu!user Fri Feb 18 17:03:24 EST 1994 Article: 26737 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!fig.lib.utexas.edu!user From: Steve.Ploof@utxvm.cc.utexas.edu (Steven Ploof) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: orchids help Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 17 Feb 1994 19:39:43 GMT Organization: University of Texas, General Libraries Lines: 18 Distribution: inet Message-ID: References: <761438692-0-15784@chop.isca.uiowa.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: fig.lib.utexas.edu In article <761438692-0-15784@chop.isca.uiowa.edu>, geoff johnson wrote: > I have started growing orchids and had a moth orchid lose most of its flowers > from transporting it. Does anyone have any good mail order addresses(with cost > of catalog) And can anybody give me the full names of orchids which are easy > to keep. THANKS> > --- > GLJOHNSON IV Geoff, There is an Orchids Listserver. I usually get the digest and find it excellant reading. To subscribe to the orchids list digest, send a mail message to MAILSERV@SCUACC.SCU.EDU (Internet), or MAILSERV@SCU (BITNET). In the body of the message type the line: SUBSCRIBE ORCHIDS Good luck, From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!uuneo.NeoSoft.com!sugar.NeoSoft.COM!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:03:25 EST 1994 Article: 26738 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!uuneo.NeoSoft.com!sugar.NeoSoft.COM!not-for-mail From: claird@sugar.NeoSoft.COM (Cameron Laird) Newsgroups: rec.arts.books,misc.rural,alt.books.reviews,rec.gardens,bionet.agroforestry,bionet.plants Subject: Re: Xylophilia (was: Biggest thing alive) Followup-To: rec.arts.books,misc.rural,rec.gardens Date: 17 Feb 1994 14:18:28 -0600 Organization: NeoSoft Internet Services +1 713 684 5969 Lines: 53 Message-ID: <2k0jek$q76@sugar.NeoSoft.COM> References: <1994Feb9.154457.20742@cs.wm.edu> <2jtehs$o8v@sugar.neosoft.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: sugar.neosoft.com Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.arts.books:74028 misc.rural:7820 alt.books.reviews:2462 rec.gardens:26738 bionet.agroforestry:460 bionet.plants:2409 In article <2jtehs$o8v@sugar.neosoft.com>, I wrote: > . > . > . [lots of stuff about] > Johnson, Hugh > 1984 Hugh Johnson's Encyclopedia of Trees. > Gallery Books, New York City > >a marvelous coffee-table book. As the dust jacket says, . . . For somewhat more sedate coverage of the same topic, see Hora, Bayard, consultant editor 1981 The Oxford Encyclopedia of Trees of the World. Oxford University Press, Oxford My exuberance about *... Johnson's ...* perhaps obscured the fact that there's some sense in his idiosyncrasies. He writes for the enthusiast, and particularly one with an estate he'd like to populate dramatically. I gave myself a *Taxodium di- stichum* for my birthday one year, before they became so fashionable in that area, based solely (well, almost) on his description of its virtues and charms. My current land-hold- ings still barely top one acre, but Johnson inspires marvelous fantasies. *The Oxford Encyclopedia ...* shares the same format--both profile botanical families in roughly 200 pages of sumptuously- illustrated cataloguing, with fifty pages of introduction, extensive reference sections, and so on--but *... Oxford ...* strikes a somewhat more formal tone. Its categories are a bit finer, and its range a bit more universal, while Johnson allows himself the luxury of devoting more space to his favorites. *... Oxford ...* is more didactic: more of its illustrations are the sort one would find in an identification key, it is more earnestly culturologic and keeps a focus on economic value. Johnson includes a photograph only when it has artistic merit apart from its botanical significance; *all* his trees look dramatic, in one way or another. Johnson has a dozen pages on "Tree Planting and Care"; *... Oxford ...* devotes about the same amount to a *Scientific American*-level introduction to the biology of trees. The best decision, once one has decided where in one's library to shelve these--they're both over 11-1/2 inches high--is simply to purchase both. -- Cameron Laird claird@Neosoft.com (claird%Neosoft.com@uunet.uu.net) +1 713 267 7966 claird@litwin.com (claird%litwin.com@uunet.uu.net) +1 713 996 8546 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph844!yourch Fri Feb 18 17:03:26 EST 1994 Article: 26739 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph844!yourch From: yourch@brtph844.bnr.ca (James Yourch P265) Subject: Re: Mountain phenology report Sender: news@brtph560.bnr.ca (Usenet News) Message-ID: <1994Feb17.194612.9966@brtph560.bnr.ca> Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 19:46:12 GMT Distribution: usa Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP Lines: 37 Report from Raleigh, NC ( Zone 7b at edge of piedmont/coastal plain ): Crocus spp: started blooming February 4 ( 1993: January 23 ). Acer rubrum: started blooming February 9 ( 1993: January 23 ). Narcissus spp: flower heads showing. Helleborus orientalis: flower heads showing. The forecast for the next 5 days is warm and sunny ( 60 - 70 F ) so we should have some more action soon. As a side note, I wanted to mention the results of the deep freeze we had back in January ( January 19: low 0 F, high 16 F ). Below are plants on my property that I don't consider particularly hardy and the information may be useful to someone who is considering using any of these species in their garden. * Viburnum tinus: Severe damage to flower buds and foliage. * Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans': Moderate damage to foliage. * Raphiolepis indica 'Pinkie': No damage. Osmanthus fragrans: Severe damage; complete defoliation. Osmanthus fortunei: Minor damage to foliage. Osmanthus heterophyllus: No damage. The plants marked with an asterisk were in an exposed location but were wrapped in burlap to keep the sun and wind off of them. Jay From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson Fri Feb 18 17:03:27 EST 1994 Article: 26740 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson From: carlson@shrsys.hslc.org Subject: Pruning tree wisteria? Message-ID: <17FEB94.16194393@shrsys.hslc.org> Sender: news@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 21:19:43 GMT Lines: 11 Hi folks! I have a tree wisteria (about 5 ft. tall) that is sending tendrils out in all directions. I've read that in order to keep wisteria in tree-form they must be pruned and shaped or they will revert back to vines. But nowhere can I find any info on how or when to do this. Can anyone help? Thanks! Karen e-mail: carlson@hslc.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news1.oakland.edu!rcsuna.gmr.com!csid.gmeds.com!csid.gmeds.com!not-for-mail Fri Feb 18 17:03:28 EST 1994 Article: 26741 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news1.oakland.edu!rcsuna.gmr.com!csid.gmeds.com!csid.gmeds.com!not-for-mail From: gardner@csid.gmeds.com (Sally Gardner) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Growing Tomatoes in SE Michigan Date: 17 Feb 1994 15:40:34 -0500 Organization: EDS Corporation Lines: 9 Message-ID: <2k0ko2$b4i@pascal.csid.gmeds.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pascal.csid.gmeds.com X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4 I am looking for guidance about growing tomatoes in Southeastern Michigan. I have an herb garden so tomatoes are my first attempt at growing vegetables. There are so many varieties out on the market and I don't know what would grow best in this climate. Any help would be greatly appreciated. p.s. I was planning on starting from seeds like I do with the herbs. I 've had great success with them. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!jyoungmac.sps.mot.com!jerry_l_young Fri Feb 18 17:03:29 EST 1994 Article: 26742 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!jyoungmac.sps.mot.com!jerry_l_young From: Jerry Young Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gardening in the arid Southwest Date: 17 Feb 1994 19:16:22 GMT Organization: Motorola RISC Apps Lines: 32 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2k0fq6INNfmb@talos4.sps.mot.com> References: <2j989l$4v8@konark.cs.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: jyoungmac.sps.mot.com X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d24 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Thu, 17 Feb 94 13:16:32 GMT In article <2j989l$4v8@konark.cs.umd.edu> Chitta R. Baral, chitta@cs.umd.edu writes: >I live in El Paso, TX; in the arid Southwest. >I just moved into a new house and would like to create >a garden that has native plants and plants that do not >need too much water. I would appreciate any suggestions >of how to go about it. > >In particular I would appreciate pointers to mail order >places that have such plants (seeds etc) and related literature in >stock. (The local nurseries are kind of expensive.) > >I am new to this group. Please let me know if a FAQ >exists that my contain some answers to my >query. There is a great book on landscaping with Texas native plants by Carol Wasowski. and alos a nice book on propagating Southwestern plants that also gives good description and culture information. I was hoping I could think of the woman's name who wrote the book before I got this far in the post, but I didn't. I think it is published by Texas Monthly Press. Also, if you can find a copy of Gardening by Mail, they list mail-order plant and seed sellers by state and by type of plant. It's a great book. Is there a botanical gardens in El Paso? If there is, they usually have lots of resources, and I would imagine that your county extension agent will have lots of information and good advice. And lastly, I'll bet that El Paso has some sort of a xeriscape garden club, your county agent would probably know about that too. Good luck, Jerry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!emory!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!kksys.com!mmbbs!datag!Tony.Carlisle Fri Feb 18 17:03:30 EST 1994 Article: 26743 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!emory!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!kksys.com!mmbbs!datag!Tony.Carlisle From: Tony.Carlisle@datag.mmbbs.mn.org (Tony Carlisle) Date: 16 Feb 94 17:20:47 -0600 Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: House Plants in LasVegas Message-ID: X-Mail-Agent: GIGO unreg at mmbbs vsn 0.98w32 Organization: Magical Mystery Lines: 10 Is anyone growing house plants in LasVegas. My mother use to live here in the Twin Cities and now she's in Vegas. She use to have plants everywhere in her house here plus a very large garden. What kind's of plants & vegetables can be grown indoors in Vegas? Thanks! TonyC Tony.Carlisle@DataG.mmbbs.mn.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uunet!ncrgw2.ncr.com!ncrhub2!ncratl!rduvall.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM Fri Feb 18 17:03:31 EST 1994 Article: 26744 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!uunet!ncrgw2.ncr.com!ncrhub2!ncratl!rduvall.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM From: Roger.Duvall@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM (Roger Duvall) Subject: Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Message-ID: <19940217131117.Roger.Duvall@rduvall.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM> Sender: root@ncratl.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM Nntp-Posting-Host: rduvall.atlantaga.ncr.com Organization: NCR Corporation X-Newsreader: FTPNuz (DOS) v1.0a References: Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 18:11:00 GMT Lines: 17 In Article "sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher)" says: > > (stuff deleted) > The week before last, I took several of the kids out in groups of three, > and we transplanted their little plants. Three days later, the sprouts > are eaten down to nubs. I suspect snails, > I've read that a band of diatomaceous earth will keep them out until it gets rained on. Maybe you could change your objective -- find out what is good snail bait (no alcohol allowed). Or you can put grapefruit rinds out, turned upside-down, and then check under them once in a while and stomp the snails you find. Maybe have the students do the checking and stomping. That's assuming the school doesn't mind garbaging up the grounds. Good luck. Snails are horrible. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!yeshua.marcam.com!news.kei.com!ssd.intel.com!chnews!pfyten Fri Feb 18 17:03:32 EST 1994 Article: 26746 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!yeshua.marcam.com!news.kei.com!ssd.intel.com!chnews!pfyten From: pfyten@sedona.intel.com (Paul Fyten~) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advice needed Date: 17 Feb 1994 23:29:09 GMT Organization: Intel Corporation Lines: 83 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2k0uk5$lm1@chnews.intel.com> References: <11FEB94.22171881@shrsys.hslc.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: orca.intel.com Originator: pfyten@sedona In article , sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes: > In article <11FEB94.22171881@shrsys.hslc.org> bshoop@shrsys.hslc.org writes: > >I am planning on putting in a large rose bed, eventually 30ft by 4 ft. My > >problem is that the soil has about 4 inches of poor topsoil... > I deal with clay here in N. Calif. While I agree with the postings > so far regarding organic material, mulch, peat moss, bone meal etc., > I add the following ingredient: vermiculite. > > I painstakingly double dug out my garden plots, and for every cubic foot > of organic material I added, I added about the same amount of vermiculite. > I really increases the friability of the soil, without being too sandy. > I get big bags at my garden center for about $12, not the little tiny > bags you see sometimes near the indoor plant potting soil displays. I too am facing 2 feet of clay and consider myself lucky that there is no caliche lurking nearer to the surface. I have been looking into the "how to amend clay" routine and after looing in LOTS of books and asking around, I am amending my Phoenix soil to 50% fine enriched mulch and 50% clay down to 1 or 2 feet depending on the planting bed for non-natives. Boy what a difference! The soil crumbles now, rather than squishing. I was contemplating using a non-organic such as pumice, vermiculite, or perlite, since the mulch will eventually break down; but decided that since I wasn't going to be living here more than say four years, why go to the expense. But here's what I've gleened so far... Vermiculite will break down eventually and release some minerals into the soil. What the minerals are I can't remember now, but it may be useful in some situations. For something permanent, go with perlite or pumice. However, it seems that perlite has the ability to hold more water than pumice so it's not suited to clay soils which need no help in this department. Perlite IS recommended for sandy soils though. So this leaves me with pumice for long-term soil aeration in clay. I've read that up to 20% non-organic is a good ratio. I was toying with the idea of 40% clay, 40% fine mulch, and 20% pumice. In these ratios, you're going to need to find real bulk pricing by the CUBIC YARD to keep things within a reasonable budget. 108 square feet is 4 cubic yards of dirt/clay per foot of soil. Amending two feet down (for my new roses, nothing is too good ;) requires 3.2 cubic yards of clay, 3.2 cubic yards of mulch, and 1.6 cubic yards of pumice. So if you were to look at 3 CUBIC FOOT bags of mulch or pumice/vermiculite, I'm talking about 29 bags of mulch and about 15 bags of pumice. Now you see why bulk is the way to go, and have it delivered. I purchased 22 cubic yards of mulch for my beds. Took up most of my driveway in my backyard. You are also looking at having 4.8+ cubic yards of clay left over so start budgeting for someone to haul it away or plan on raised beds somewhere. I say + because the clay as it is now is much more compact than when you rotary till it and fluff it up. More on that later... I can get pumice down here for $25 per CUBIC YARD. The enriched fine mulch I purchased was only $15 per cubic yard. Certainly a lot cheaper than the average nursery buying in 3 cu ft bags. Look in the yellow pages under "Soil Amendments," "Fertilizer," "Lanscaping Supplies," or of course the obvious "Nurseries." It's up to you if you want to add the pumice at the extra expense and extra 10% surplus clay. Thanks to the advice of a few in this group, I finally bought a 5hp MTD front tine rotary tiller from Home Depot. This is the minimum I would recommend for anyone doing major relandscaping in clay. I till down about 4-5" in one pass and then can shovel the dirt out of the bed. Till again, shovel again down to the level you desire to amend leaving about 4" tilled clay in the bottom of the bed. I then add the sulfur (ph ~8.0 here), bone meal, and gypsum to the clay and till it in. Add 4" of mulch and some bone meal and mix it all together. Add 4" of clay, amendments, and mix together getting a bit of the previous mixture in the till. Then 4" more mulch, etc... Sounds like lot's of mixing, but it's easier than a fork. BTW, I'm 6'1" and 200# and the tiller is no problem to control. Use depth stake to control the beast/blessing and contrary to my initial speculation, I now push DOWN on the handles for more control (driving the depth stake deeper) and pull UP on the handles to get the machine moving faster and tilling more shallow. The depth stake is your best friend in this situation! Well, I seem to have written a fair bit here, so I'll let it go for now. Good luck with whatever you decide. > > --Good Luck > > --Kim FIsher > From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:03:33 EST 1994 Article: 26747 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet From: saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Found - Source for Pentas lanceolata Date: Thu, 17 Feb 94 15:34:19 PST Organization: University of California, Berkeley Lines: 20 Message-ID: <2k0vh2$t7b@agate.berkeley.edu> References: <1994Feb9.032333.14047@osuunx.ucc.okstate.edu> <1994Feb9.032809.17445@osuunx.ucc.okstate.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: largo.ucop.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In article <1994Feb9.032809.17445@osuunx.ucc.okstate.edu>, writes: > Could anyone out there direct me to a source for Pentas lanceolata? > It's a subshrub w/ red, purple, rose, or white blooms and ranges from > 1.5' to 3' in height. Gates - Logee's Greenhouses (141 North St., Danielson, CT 06239; (203) 774-8038, FAX (203) 774-9932; catalog $3) carries this plants in pink, white, rose or scarlet. They also carry a variegated white form which they call 'Avalanche'. All sell for $3 ea. Logee's is a very old and well-known institution, and continues to supply a variety of interesting and unusual tropical and sub-tropicals for indoor (or outdoor here in Calif.!) growing. Sean A. O'Hara, Oakland, Calif. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:03:35 EST 1994 Article: 26748 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet From: saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: To kill a Sowbug (a.k.a. pillbug) Date: Thu, 17 Feb 94 15:54:30 PST Organization: University of California, Berkeley Lines: 46 Message-ID: <2k10qf$t7b@agate.berkeley.edu> References: <9402132318593.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: largo.ucop.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In article <9402132318593.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com>, writes: > Date: 14 Feb 1994 04:21:05 GMT > > My garden contains a veritable plethora of pillbugs. You know, those > >little crustaceanous bugs in the garden that roll themselves up when you > >touch them? I was wondering if anyone knows if these bugs are harmful, > >or beneficial, or neutral. > > > > OG recently ran a reply to a letter (last month, I think) in which > >they claimed that these pests are not as pesty as people think; that they > >eat decaying matter, and that if you really hate them, get some chickens. > >Someone please confirm or disconfirm this claim. > > Ruth, > I have the same ?Problem?. My garden has oodles of the little round guys and > I have often wondered whether they pose a threat to anything. I must say > that I have never actually witnessed them munching on a veggie or a flower, > nor have I experienced major damage that I could not trace to another > source. (I did find quite a few in the vicinity of rotting core of an > over-moist, over-blanched escarole once.) This lack of evidence of > wrongdoing, combined with real doubt that I could actually do anything to > reduce the population of a critter so ubiquitous, has led me to ignore them. > > Greg Ruth & Greg - I completely understand your situation. In our current garden we are also overrun with the little rolly-polly beasts! I'd been told by many a soul that they do no harm, but I've caught them 'red-handed' more than once now, and am convinced that, in these numbers, they can be a pest. Normally they do only eat decaying matter, but ours seem to have no trouble moving onto fresh tissue. I especially have a problem around the terracotta potted succulents on my stairs - they love to be under them (often by the scores!) and come out at might and really do eat holes into my Echeverias and Cotyledons! I have discovered a great way to deal with them though - sprinkle some corn meal around (lightly) - they eat it and it apparently expands in their 'tummies' and kills them. I've had good success so far, re-applying every 3 weeks or so. One of the best, non-toxic bug-killers I've found! Sean A. O'Hara, Oakland, Calif. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Fri Feb 18 17:03:38 EST 1994 Article: 26749 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Growing potatoes above ground Message-ID: <24@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 17 Feb 94 22:33:16 GMT References: Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 11 clb5q@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Cheryl L. Boyd) writes: > Has anyone had experience with growing potatos by just laying > them on top of the beds and covering them over with 6" of straw > or rotted hay mulch? I don't grow potatoes *entirely* above ground, but I do use a heavy mulch of hay and straw. This mulch should be AT LEAST 12 inches thick, possibly thicker, to avoid green potatoes. I place unsprouted, whole seed potatoes so that they are half buried in the soil, no closer than one per square foot. If I can, I prefer to use pre-sprouted potatoes. These I place in shallow holes and v-e-r-y gently cover with loose soil. (The soil supports/protects the fragile sprouts when you pile the hay on.) Next I mulch with old hay and/or straw, piling it up about 12" deep. I use some huge old pla nks tied together at the corners to confine the mulch to the potato bed. (My garden consists of 4' x 8' permanent beds, separated by paths mulched with old carpet.) Later in the season, I will add more hay as the original mulch settles. The majority of the tubers are formed at the surface, with an occasional spud below ground. As I harvest potatoes, I throw the mulch on top of the rest of the bed. I never harvest more than I need for a particular meal, and use the heavy mulch to store the potatoes _in situ_ as long as possible. (I would think if your mulch was thick enough, this could be all winter. I can't say, as we manage to eat all of our potatoes before the end of December...) -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!157ochs Fri Feb 18 17:03:39 EST 1994 Article: 26750 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!157ochs From: 157ochs@gw.wmich.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Signs of spring Message-ID: <1994Feb17.191050.14976@gw.wmich.edu> Date: 17 Feb 94 19:10:49 EST References: <1994Feb14.231456.11664@nicmad.uucp> Organization: Western Michigan University Lines: 16 In article <1994Feb14.231456.11664@nicmad.uucp>, Bob Klebba writes: > Here in the frozen wasteland of Wisconsin, I saw my first sign of spring > yesterday. About 2% of the branches on an American elm tree were in full > flower! I don't know who's out pollinating at this time of year, but the > flowers were indeed there. I've been checking the silver maples, but > I've not seen any flowers on them yet. . . . > > Nothing is coming out here yet, except Chickweeds, which are starting to bloom. Vernal Witchhazels are will probably bloom here in a couple of days, and the pussy willows will probably also start coming out within the next week. It got upto 50 degrees here in Kalamazoo today, and is supposed to get in the 50's tomorrow. Jeff From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:03:40 EST 1994 Article: 26751 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet From: saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Climbing Plants Date: Thu, 17 Feb 94 16:03:14 PST Organization: University of California, Berkeley Lines: 34 Message-ID: <2k11c7$t7b@agate.berkeley.edu> References: <103714@cup.portal.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: largo.ucop.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In article <103714@cup.portal.com>, writes: > Date: Sun, 13 Feb 94 21:09:02 PST > We wish to plant a flowering vine to cover our tool shed. The three > we are considering are the purple wisteria, yellow trumpet honeysuckle, > or morning glories. Which of these grows the fastest? And does anyone > have any experiences good or bad with any of these three climbers? > > Any other suggestions for flowering climbers? Please e-mail > amigan@cup.portal.com Mike - All are fairly fast. The Morning Glories will do it in a season, but unless you live here in the milder areas of Calif., it will be annual. Wisteria is often not given enough of a support (it gets extremely heavy with age!) so be sure your shed won't collapse under the wieght of something like that. I'm not sure which honesuckle you are refering to (there a several species and hybrids), but maybe you mean Lonicera japonica 'Halliana'? If so, it quite vigorous, fast, and fragrant. Sometimes they can get into every thing else as well! You also might consider some of the small floweres Clematis species (fall or spring blooming). Or a rambler rose (can be quite charming on an old wooden structure)? Look around you area for some vines to get a feel for how they look. Vines are often very beautiful, but some can also get away and cause problems if you place them wrong. I'm trying to get a 'big-ugly-bush' (a weedy Cotoneaster) covered with vines myself, and am planning to mix a couple for year-round impact (i.e. a pale pink rose in spring, morning glories for summer, something deciduous for fall color, etc.). Sean A. O'Hara, Oakland, Calif. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!news.miami.edu!cybernet.cse.fau.edu!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:03:41 EST 1994 Article: 26752 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!news.miami.edu!cybernet.cse.fau.edu!usenet From: gateway@cybernet.cse.fau.edu (gate way) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Roses and other plants Date: Thu, 17 Feb 94 20:23:07 EST Organization: Cybernet BBS, Boca Raton, Florida Lines: 15 Message-ID: <9o6wHc2w165w@cybernet.cse.fau.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: cybernet.cse.fau.edu Hi I'm looking for answers on what is a good fertilizer or rose food for my roses and what kind environment safe pesticides and fungus killer there is for aphids and other insects. I have Banana trees and citrus trees and all sorts of flowers in my back yard....and want to control or get rid of the leaves that are cruling on trees and sorta like dirt on the leaves I also would like to know whats the weed killers for heave duty weeds and something that won't kill my grass. I live in South Florida. Any help here in this area would be of great help THANK YOU> .. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!cmhcsys.com!jaimef Fri Feb 18 17:03:42 EST 1994 Article: 26753 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!cmhcsys.com!jaimef From: jaimef@cmhcsys.com (Jaime Fuhr) Subject: Re: inhospitable roses? Organization: CMHC Systems Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 21:51:13 GMT Message-ID: <1994Feb17.215113.27160@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com> X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <2jebhr$sh7@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> Sender: news@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com (Usenet News Administrator) Lines: 20 leppik peter (leppik@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu) wrote: : DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) writes: : You aren't "supposed" to plant new roses in beds that had previously : contained rose bushes, not because of any toxic substance, but because the : previous rose bush will have depleted the soil of needed nutrients. : -- : Peter Leppik-- p-leppi@uiuc.edu Is there some way to add nutrients back into the soil to regenerate it? -- *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*- Jaime Fuhr, CMHC Systems jaimef@cmhcprd.cmhcsys.COM Columbus, Ohio "None of us are as smart as all of us" DeVry Institute of Technology - The One Minute Manager From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!bigfoot.wustl.edu!nedehn Fri Feb 18 17:03:42 EST 1994 Article: 26754 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!bigfoot.wustl.edu!nedehn From: nedehn@ArtSci.WuStL.EDU (Natasha Elizabeth Dehn) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Landscape questions Date: 18 Feb 1994 05:05:34 GMT Organization: Washington University, St. Louis, MO Lines: 24 Message-ID: <2k1iau$sn3@bigfoot.wustl.edu> References: <2jda08$27p@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: mulberry.wustl.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Michele Torcasio Gorse (dp653@cleveland.Freenet.Edu) wrote: : Hello all, : Great to find this group. I have been gardening for about 6 years : (near cleveland ohio), and have loved every minute of it. We have : a very small yard, tiny , is more like it. I used every square : inch and it has turned out well. Which leads me to my next question, : can anyone recommend some books on landscaping 'large' areas? We : are planning to build soon and the property is about 12 acres? : The land is mostly flat, and no trees on most of it. There is a : wooded area to the back and it is swampy in some places. The : water table is close to the surface, drainage could be a problem : . Never the less I am looking forward to the challenge. : Any advice or info would be appreciated, : thankx, michele in ohio Swampy? what a great opportunity to put in a water/bog garden! You will attract all sorts of wildlife (particularly if you check out local info sources re. native plants) and discover a whole new obsession! Even my tiny artificial pond brings great joy...... I can't recommend A book, because mine is out of print and anyway I'm still looking for the perfect one, but I'd look for one with lots of plant and maintainance info. --pond Building info is everywhere. Good luck!! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!destroyer!caen!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.crd.ge.com!sarah!rpi!scott.skidmore.edu!sdecker Fri Feb 18 17:03:43 EST 1994 Article: 26755 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!yeshua.marcam.com!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!destroyer!caen!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.crd.ge.com!sarah!rpi!scott.skidmore.edu!sdecker From: sdecker@scott.skidmore.edu (susan decker) Subject: Mid-winter Blues Message-ID: <1994Feb17.212239.12919@scott.skidmore.edu> Organization: Skidmore College, Saratoga Springs NY X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Date: Thu, 17 Feb 1994 21:22:39 GMT Lines: 18 Anybody have any great books for garden planning? I have lots of sources for the technical stuff, but what about making it LOOK pretty? Especially the herbs and perennial flowers. I'd also love some ideas for getting rid of wild grape vines, for what to grow on the backfill (pretty sparse soil) over a stone retaining wall (something to droop down would be nice). I'm in zone 3 or 4, depending on the year (this year's 3, I think). I'd also be interested in hearing any creative ideas people have come up with for herb gardens, including pools, terracing, whatever. Anybody grow hot peppers in upstate NY? Which ones, and how do they do? In case you haven't guessed, we're still snowed in up here and I'm using all this free time to plan every inch of an 80 acre farm. The work I'm making for myself will last for the next 10 years, but I may not! Anyway, I'm looking for any interesting ideas about anything that grows in a garden. Post or send to sdecker@scott.skidmore.edu. Thanks for your stories! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgiblab!gatekeeper.us.oracle.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Fri Feb 18 17:03:44 EST 1994 Article: 26756 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgiblab!gatekeeper.us.oracle.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Message-ID: <9402181259.AA14360@im8> Subject: Re: Help! Plants that deter cats! Date: Fri, 18 Feb 94 07:59:26 EST X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA25452; Fri, 18 Feb 94 05:00:50 -0800 X-Received: from IM.LCS.MIT.EDU by inet-gw-1.pa.dec.com (5.65/13Jan94) id AA22928; Fri, 18 Feb 94 04:57:17 -0800 X-Received: from im8 (IM8.LCS.MIT.EDU) by im (4.1/TOC-1.1S) id AA03802; Fri, 18 Feb 94 07:59:29 EST X-Received: by im8 (4.1/TOC-1.1C) id AA14360; Fri, 18 Feb 94 07:59:26 EST X-To: rec.gardens.usenet Lines: 25 In article: <1994Feb15.174108.11473@terminus.ericsson.se> joan@terminus.ericsson.se (Joan Hardbattle) suggests: > On the subject of ways to keep cats out of your garden - my Dad heard this > tip in a gardening programme, tried it and swears it works. > Take some empty 2 or 3 litre plastic bottles (Coca-Cola type) minus > the labels, half fill with water, replace top and lay them on their > sides in the garden. Why this should work no-one I've spoken to > knows, but they say it does. Certainly my Dad hasn't been visited > by cats since . If it works I'd be interested to know. > Joan > (cat lover as well as garden lover) Ah, yes. Urban legend #93548. There was some discussion of this pet deterrent method here last year. This rumor was deliberately started by someone in Australia to see how long it would take for a preposterous idea to get around. BTW, it is to keep DOGS out, not cats. --Jill P.S. There are plenty of people who swear that it works well. :') A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!news.centerline.com!mrh Fri Feb 18 17:03:45 EST 1994 Article: 26757 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!news.centerline.com!mrh From: mrh@centerline.com (Mike Huben) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Monarchs Date: 14 Feb 1994 18:44:07 GMT Organization: CenterLine Software, Inc. Lines: 15 Message-ID: <2jogpn$2a2@wcap.centerline.com> References: <16F5AB495.DIGIROL@lexmark.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: equator.centerline.com In article <16F5AB495.DIGIROL@lexmark.com>, wrote: > >Those big caterpillars were probably Monarchs. They seem to love Dill here in >Kentucky. My kids pull them off and feed them lots of Dill. They love to >watch them grow and then spin their cocoon. Many times they'll hatch and then >watch them dry their wings and fly off. They are almost all black when very >small (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long) and then turn black and bright green. You were raising Black Swallowtail larvae, which prefer carrot family foodplants. Monarchs are pretty specific to milkweeds, and have a conspicuous black, orange and white banding in all instars, as well as black "tentacles" fore and aft. Neither spin cocoons, but both use some silk to suspend their chrysalides. Mike Huben From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!cs.utk.edu!martha.utcc.utk.edu!utkvx.utk.edu!getino Fri Feb 18 17:03:46 EST 1994 Article: 26758 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!cs.utk.edu!martha.utcc.utk.edu!utkvx.utk.edu!getino From: getino@utkvx.utk.edu (Getino, Coral) Subject: tulip, daffodil bulbs Message-ID: <18FEB199409133106@utkvx.utk.edu> News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Sender: usenet@martha.utcc.utk.edu (USENET News System) Organization: University of Tennessee Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 14:13:00 GMT Lines: 16 Hi, we have some bulbs that we never planted... I was wondering if I put them in the refrigerator until next fall, would they be OK? I bought them last september and had them for 2 months in the veggie bin of the refrigerator, so could they still flower if I plant them now in a shaded area? I live in TN, and winters are usually mild (except for this one, of course). The average high temp. is 58 or so at this time of the year. The bulbs I planted are now starting to come out!! Thanks for your comments, sorry if this is already in the FAQ's... Coral From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!ceylon!cancun.gte.com!user Fri Feb 18 17:03:47 EST 1994 Article: 26759 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!ceylon!cancun.gte.com!user From: sheiler@gte.com (Sandra Heiler) Subject: starting Japanese lanterns: rocket sci?? Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: news@gte.com (USENET News System) Organization: GTE Labs Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 14:11:36 GMT Lines: 17 I've been trying to start some Japanese lanterns from Burpee seeds. My germination rate after 25 days: zero! Does anyone in netland know what I'm doing wrong? I planted the seeds in Jiffy 7s that I had previously wet with boiling water to prevent mold (Yeh, I cooled them off before I planted the seeds). Then I put the swollen little 7s in the plastic trays Chinese carry-out foods come in with the clear plastic lids sitting on the tops lightly (not sealed) and put 1 tray on top of the refrigerator and 1 in front of a radiator (thinking maybe they'd want just a little more heat than the fridge could provide). Temperatures in the rooms range about 64-68F. The pots seem damp, but not wet, swollen to the normal size that Jiffy 7s get (about jumbo egg size) and there's no mold (or anything else) growing in them. Should I have used the trays from Japanese restaurant carry-outs? Do the seeds need some special treatment Burpee didn't tell me about? Were they lying about the 14-21 day germination period? Thanks for any advice you can provide. Sandy From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah238 Fri Feb 18 17:03:48 EST 1994 Article: 26760 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah238 From: ah238@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Joseph Zupko) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Spray N grow Date: 18 Feb 1994 16:04:50 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 5 Message-ID: <2k2ove$j0a@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: piglet.ins.cwru.edu Did anyone ever tried this product which claims it will increase your yeild? Or is it just another bottle of snake oil for gardners to buy? -- We can not have a cafeteria type democracy(freedom). From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!gopher.cs.uofs.edu!jaguar.uofs.edu!wallacec1 Fri Feb 18 17:03:49 EST 1994 Article: 26761 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!gopher.cs.uofs.edu!jaguar.uofs.edu!wallacec1 From: wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: fountain breaking into chunks Date: 18 Feb 94 10:43:38 EST Organization: University of Scranton Lines: 11 Message-ID: <1994Feb18.104338.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: jaguar.cs.uofs.edu We installed a pond last year, with a concrete fountain. Because of the fish in the pond, we were advised to keep the pump and fountain running all wiinter. We've had the 20 below temps for awhile--and now, when it's finally warming, the fountain is breaking up into chunks. Is there any way to stop this? Is there a sealer we can put on concrete fountains? Or would it be better not to paint it at all? The one we are currebtly using was treeated (using outdoor concrete paint) with a faux verdigris finsh. It may be doomed--but we happen to have a spare and I'd like to know how to treat this one so it will last for more than one winter. Carol Wallace From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke Fri Feb 18 17:03:50 EST 1994 Article: 26762 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help with Calla Lily Seedlings Message-ID: <1994Feb18.155304.4141@lsl.co.uk> Date: 18 Feb 94 15:53:04 +0100 References: Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 33 In article , cazimme@lims01.lerc.nasa.gov (Marty Zimmerman) writes: > I have several Calla lily seedlings (Zantedeschia elliotana {yellow}) that > germinated about 1 month ago. They have 1 to 4 leaves. The problem is that > they don't look very happy. When the first leaves appeared, they were thick > and opaque. Now, many of the leaves seem very thin and pale. The veins are > clearly visible, which they weren't in the younger leaves (or in adult > leaves for that matter). It appears as if the liquid content of the leaves > is too low. > > Right now the plants are in standard 4" plastic seedling pots with drain > holes. There is 1/2" pebbles in pots for extra drainage and standard > potting mix. I've kept baggies over the plants to keep the temperature and > moisture levels high. Underwatering is not the problem, though overwatering > might be. They have been exposed to only weak light and I've just started > feeding with weak Miracle Gro solutions. Nobody seems to have followed this up yet, unless by email. My first though is the 'weak light', which could cause thin, pale leaves. I have no experience with Calla, but giving more light would seem to be a good idea. Most plants can produce quite good initial leaves, even in poor light, using the food reserves in the seed. Perhaps try to wean them off their baggies as well. Open the bags, or take the plants out - if they wilt then put them back in. While bags are good to start with, I feel that a plant in a bag gets to feel that it needn't bother growing roots, since it never loses any water by transpiration. Once it gets ventilation, and loses water through the leaves, it gets the idea that it must grow some roots in order to take up replacement water from the ground. -- Clarke Brunt (CCB), Principal Software Engineer, Laser-Scan Ltd, Science Park, Milton Rd, CAMBRIDGE, CB4 4FY, England. Tel (+44) 223 420414; Fax 420044, Email CLARKE@LSL.CO.UK (via BRITAIN.EU.NET) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!news.bu.edu!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:03:51 EST 1994 Article: 26763 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!news.bu.edu!usenet From: LKEYS@BUPULA.BU.EDU (clementine) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Horse manure: toxic waste! Date: 18 Feb 1994 17:06:45 GMT Organization: Boston University, Pulmonary Center Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2k2sj5$2pf@news.bu.edu> References: <2jqr4l$j0f@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> <1994Feb17.035339.17392@nmt.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bupula.bu.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24 In-Reply-To: martha@baervan.nmt.edu's message of Thu, 17 Feb 1994 03:53:39 GMT Another horse manure consideration... I was warned by the wonderful men in my garden club not to use horse manure. They claim that the horse does not digest weed seeds. Unless you are certain of the horse's diet there's a good chance that you'll be spreading weeds around your garden... Linda From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Fri Feb 18 17:03:52 EST 1994 Article: 26764 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: starting Japanese lanterns: rocket sci?? Message-ID: <1994Feb18.100952.23116@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 18 Feb 94 10:09:52 -0600 References: Followup-To: rec.gardens Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 24 In article , sheiler@gte.com (Sandra Heiler) writes: > I've been trying to start some Japanese lanterns from Burpee seeds. My > germination rate after 25 days: zero! Does anyone in netland know what I'm > doing wrong? I planted the seeds in Jiffy 7s that I had previously wet > with boiling water to prevent mold (Yeh, I cooled them off before I planted > the seeds). Then I put the swollen little 7s in the plastic trays Chinese > carry-out foods come in with the clear plastic lids sitting on the tops > lightly (not sealed) and put 1 tray on top of the refrigerator and 1 in > front of a radiator (thinking maybe they'd want just a little more heat > than the fridge could provide). Temperatures in the rooms range about > 64-68F. The pots seem damp, but not wet, swollen to the normal size that > Jiffy 7s get (about jumbo egg size) and there's no mold (or anything else) > growing in them. Well... I'm not thrilled with Jiffy 7s as seedling starters, but they will work. I suspect your main problem is that the room (and hence the starters) is too cold... your Japanese Lanterns, _Physalis alkakengi_ are closely related to tomatoes, and like them, prefer slightly warmer germination temperatures. Try moving them to about a 75oF room, or supplying bottom heat. Dig around and see if you can find the seeds... if they aren't mushy, they'll still grow! Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!rolson Fri Feb 18 17:03:53 EST 1994 Article: 26765 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!rolson From: rolson@orion.it.luc.edu (Rick T. Olson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: What to do with lawn? Date: 18 Feb 1994 17:09:45 GMT Organization: Loyola University of Chicago Lines: 8 Message-ID: <2k2sop$gf9@apollo.it.luc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: orion.it.luc.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] I live on a treeless acre in the far NW suburbs of Chicago. Much of the backyard is destined to remain treeless because of the septic field. I have grass (of sorts) everywhere else. I am (nearly) of the belief that if you are going to have a lawn, it should look like a golf course. On the other hand, I'm not about to water that much and don't want to use that many chemicals so I seek your input. What would you do with that much predominantly clayey land? I await your suggestions....Rick From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!hp-cv!hp-pcd!hpspkla!richards Fri Feb 18 17:03:55 EST 1994 Article: 26766 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!hp-cv!hp-pcd!hpspkla!richards From: richards@spk.hp.com (Darrell H. Richardson) Subject: conflicting info Sender: news@spk.hp.com Message-ID: Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 18:07:54 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: hpspkcj.spk.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1.4 PL6] Lines: 23 Hi Folks, I ran across some contradictory info the other day and wondered if anybody can set me straight. It was my understanding that the American Chestnut has been reduced to old stumps (alive) and young trees. After the young trees grow a while they contract the blight and die. The new info was in some post 1970's book (I can't remember which) that claimed the blight does not occur west of the Rockies. Does anybody know if this is true. Some interesting factoids (fact?/fiction). Close by in Idaho there is a park that has a mature (50+ years?) chestnut without the blight. I haven't seen it yet. Washington State does not allow Chestnut trees of any variety to be shipped to it. This I know because my brother tried to order one and was told that they couldn't ship it here. Could this be because the blight can occur out west, but that there are still pockets it hasn't reached yet? Darrell From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!news.bu.edu!usenet Fri Feb 18 17:03:56 EST 1994 Article: 26767 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!news.bu.edu!usenet From: LKEYS@BUPULA.BU.EDU (clementine) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: starting Japanese lanterns: rocket sci?? Date: 18 Feb 1994 18:36:16 GMT Organization: Boston University, Pulmonary Center Lines: 21 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2k31r0$2pf@news.bu.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: bupula.bu.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24 In-Reply-To: sheiler@gte.com's message of Fri, 18 Feb 1994 14:11:36 GMT In sheiler@gte.com writes: > I've been trying to start some Japanese lanterns from Burpee seeds. My > germination rate after 25 days: zero! Does anyone in netland know what I'm > doing wrong? May I suggest hydroponics? After 10 days my Burpee seed are pretty darn close to 100% germination. The Japanese lanterns are tiny, but the tomatoes are on their 2nd set of 'real' leaves! My set-up is simple, clean and easy. No pumps, no timers, no fuss. These seedlings are taking less time and less energy than every other method of starting seeds I've tried. The biggest selling point for me has been the cleanliness. (I usually start my garden in the laundry room). Drop my a line if you want more specifics. Linda From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!seberts.uoregon.edu!user Fri Feb 18 17:03:57 EST 1994 Article: 26768 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!lerc.nasa.gov!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!seberts.uoregon.edu!user From: eberts@donald.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What to do with lawn? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 10:21:45 -0800 Organization: U of O Lines: 21 Message-ID: References: <2k2sop$gf9@apollo.it.luc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: seberts.uoregon.edu In article <2k2sop$gf9@apollo.it.luc.edu>, rolson@orion.it.luc.edu (Rick T. Olson) wrote: > I live on a treeless acre in the far NW suburbs of Chicago. Much of the > backyard is destined to remain treeless because of the septic field. I > have grass (of sorts) everywhere else. I am (nearly) of the belief that > if you are going to have a lawn, it should look like a golf course. On > the other hand, I'm not about to water that much and don't want to use that > many chemicals so I seek your input. What would you do with that much > predominantly clayey land? I await your suggestions....Rick *i'd* plant some decent cover crops that will cover the area, not need as much care as a lawn, and actually work at turning that clay into something decent. something like new zealand clover, perhaps. -- "party people in the house it's a love thang." -tom tom club sonny hays-eberts eberts@donald.uoregon.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news1.oakland.edu!condor.ic.net!kiewicz Fri Feb 18 17:03:58 EST 1994 Article: 26769 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news1.oakland.edu!condor.ic.net!kiewicz From: kiewicz@cyberspace.org (Pat and George Kiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Growing Tomatoes in SE Michigan Date: 18 Feb 1994 19:12:15 GMT Organization: Cyberspace Communications Public-Access UNIX Lines: 35 Message-ID: <2k33uu$i64@condor.ic.net> References: <2k0ko2$b4i@pascal.csid.gmeds.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: grex.cyberspace.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Sally Gardner (gardner@csid.gmeds.com) wrote: : I am looking for guidance about growing tomatoes in Southeastern : Michigan. I have an herb garden so tomatoes are my first attempt at : growing vegetables. There are so many varieties out on the market and I : don't know what would grow best in this climate. Any help would be : greatly appreciated. : p.s. I was planning on starting from seeds like I do with the herbs. I : 've had great success with them. I've been gardening in SE Michigan for 13+ years and I am constantly trying varieties of tomatoes. Some that I recommend particularly are: Enchantment -- hybrid, disease resistant, indeterminate Ruby Gold/Pineapple -- heirloom variety, indeterminate La Rossa -- paste variety, determinate San Pable -- paste variety, determinate Gold Heart -- heirloom variety, indeterminate Actually, I've tried very few varieties that have failed miserably or completly. The ones I've mentioned have stood out due to outstanding flavor (Ruby Gold) or reliability (Enchantment). Plant an early variety as well as later varieties, and really, try what you think you might like. Be sure not to rush to set out your plants or start them too early. I don't transplant until mid-late May and don't start plants until early April. (Six weeks indoors is a maximum.) Watch the weather section of the news-- when the normal low temperatures are above 50, and the *actual* lows are, too, it's time to transplant. (But have something handy to cover the plants if the weather turns nasty.) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!efn!ef!excalbr!Merlin Fri Feb 18 17:03:59 EST 1994 Article: 26770 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!efn!ef!excalbr!Merlin From: excalbr!Merlin@efn.org (David Donn) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: FAQ for rec.gardens available? Distribution: world X-BBS-Software: EXCELSIOR! BBS v1.18 Message-ID: Date: 18 Feb 94 07:13:06 PST Organization: Excalibur BBS 1-503-726-4946 Lines: 7 I too would like to see a FAQ for this newsgroup... Please consider this a request to anyone with a FAQ to kindly send it to me via netmail... Thanks in advance. -- Merlin excalbr!merlin@efn.org Excalibur BBS Springfield, OR From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Fri Feb 18 17:04:00 EST 1994 Article: 26771 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Potato growing, revised post Message-ID: <28@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 18 Feb 94 17:16:06 GMT References: <21@oeonline.UUCP> Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 35 I have been having problems with the following post and I hope you will have patience with me. It has apparently been reposted over and over again in a nearly unreadable form. //pk\\ clb5q@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Cheryl L. Boyd) writes: > Has anyone had experience with growing potatos by just laying > them on top of the beds and covering them over with 6" of straw > or rotted hay mulch? I don't grow potatoes *entirely* above ground, but I do use a heavy mulch of hay and straw. This mulch should be AT LEAST 12 inches thick, possibly thicker, to avoid green potatoes. I place unsprouted, whole seed potatoes so that they are half buried in the soil, no closer than one per square foot. If I can, I prefer to use pre-sproute> d potatoes. These I place in shallow holes and v-e-r-y gently cover with loose soil. (The soil supports/protects the fragile sprouts when you pile the hay on.) Next I mulch with old hay and/or straw, piling it up about 12" deep. I use some huge old pl> anks tied together at the corners to confine the mulch to the potato bed. (My garden consists of 4' x 8' permanent beds, separated by paths mulched with old carpet.) Later in the season, I will add more hay as the original mulch settles. The majority of the tubers are formed at the surface, with an occasional spud below ground. As I harvest potatoes, I throw the mulch on top of the rest of the bed. I never harvest more than I need for a particular meal, and use the heavy mulch to store the potatoes _in situ_ as long as possible. (I would think if your mulch was thick enough, this could be all winter. I can't say, as we manage to eat all of our potatoes before the end of December...) -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com "Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn." -- Garrison Keillor From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!rutgers!njitgw.njit.edu!hertz.njit.edu!smt2626 Fri Feb 18 17:04:01 EST 1994 Article: 26772 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!rutgers!njitgw.njit.edu!hertz.njit.edu!smt2626 From: smt2626@hertz.njit.edu (sylvia m tou mfen stnt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: cover to cutdown on weeds substitute Message-ID: <1994Feb18.195501.16404@njitgw.njit.edu> Date: 18 Feb 94 19:55:01 GMT Sender: news@njit.edu Distribution: usa Organization: New Jersey Institute of Technology, Newark, New Jersey Lines: 10 Nntp-Posting-Host: hertz.njit.edu I have seen these black 'cloth' that you put down to cut down weeds and maintain moisture (or at least I assume that is what they do). I was wondering would a bunch of newspapers with some compost/dirt thrown on top (to weigh it down) do about the same thing? -- sylvia (sylvia@teak.njit.edu or smt2626@hertz.njit.edu) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bluebird.uchicago.edu!lal Fri Feb 18 17:04:02 EST 1994 Article: 26774 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!bluebird.uchicago.edu!lal From: lal@press.uchicago.edu (Lisa Lucas) Subject: re: conflicting info/chestnuts Message-ID: Lines: 8 Sender: news@uchinews.uchicago.edu (News System) Organization: The University of Chicago Press X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 21:22:26 GMT White Flower Farm is featuring chestnut trees in their latest catalog and notes that these are not susceptible to the problems chestnut trees had been experiencing. I'm not a chestnut expert, but the catalog copy certainly made it sound like healthy trees hadn't been readily available for quite some time. Lisa Lucas llucas@press.uchicago.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson Fri Feb 18 17:04:03 EST 1994 Article: 26775 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson From: carlson@shrsys.hslc.org Subject: Source for Job's Tears seeds? Message-ID: <18FEB94.20383587@shrsys.hslc.org> Sender: news@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER Date: Sat, 19 Feb 1994 01:38:35 GMT Lines: 15 We're finally having nice weather here in Central PA--the temperature hit 60 degrees today! So I'm thinking about what to plant in my annual garden this year. My grandmother used to grow a plant called Job's Tears. I don't remember what the plant itself looked like, but the seeds are about the size of a pea and are gray in color. My grandmother said that in the old days country women who couldn't afford jewelry would string the seeds of the Job's Tear like beads and make necklaces out of them. I've seen some of the necklaces and they actually are rather pretty. Does anyone know where I can get Job's Tears seeds to plant? Karen e-mail: carlson@hslc.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.intercon.com!panix!tinman.dev.prodigy.com!philabs!kar Fri Feb 18 17:04:04 EST 1994 Article: 26776 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.intercon.com!panix!tinman.dev.prodigy.com!philabs!kar From: kar@philabs.philips.com (Karen A Rubistello) Subject: Advice Needed: When to Move a Tree Message-ID: <1994Feb18.183103.10442@philabs.philips.com> Sender: news@philabs.philips.com (Mr. C. News) Organization: Philips Laboratories, Briarcliff NY Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 18:31:03 GMT Lines: 11 My husband and I have found that we have a problem with our foundation and need to dig down to fix the situation. This means that we have to move a 7' deciduous azalea from the front of our house. I really dont want to harm this tree its really beautiful when it blooms in the spring so....can someone please tell me if i can move it before it blossoms? We wont be able to wait till fall when the tree is dormant again (i wish i knew we had this problem in october!). Thanks for all your help karen From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!news.bu.edu!att-in!att-out!cbnewsh!dvw Tue Feb 22 23:29:31 EST 1994 Article: 26777 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!news.bu.edu!att-in!att-out!cbnewsh!dvw From: dvw@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (diane.v.wilkerson) Subject: Re: Signs of spring Organization: AT&T Distribution: na Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 21:37:18 GMT Message-ID: References: <1994Feb14.231456.11664@nicmad.uucp> <1994Feb17.191050.14976@gw.wmich.edu> Lines: 20 In article <1994Feb17.191050.14976@gw.wmich.edu> 157ochs@gw.wmich.edu writes: >Nothing is coming out here yet, except Chickweeds, which are starting to bloom. >Vernal Witchhazels are will probably bloom here in a couple of days, and >the pussy willows will probably also start coming out within the next week. >It got upto 50 degrees here in Kalamazoo today, and is supposed to get in >the 50's tomorrow. > >Jeff Red Bank, NJ, Zone 6+/7-: Snowdrops! What? Oh, that's snowDRIFTS! Oh, OK. The snow on my lawn is still over a foot high. Before the storms of last week, there were crocus leaves (some tulips and narcissus had sprouted leaves in late December). Haven't hiked out the the backyard to see the neighbor's forsythia yet. Everything else is on hold (I hope this thaw continues!) -- Diane Wilkerson |Stupid CBS Reporter: What about the ice? It looked slippery AT&T | in that area! ..!att!cbnewsh!dvw |Dan Jansen's Coach: Ice is *always* slippery. (908) 615-2704 | From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet Tue Feb 22 23:29:31 EST 1994 Article: 26778 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet From: saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Job's Tears (Coix lacryma-jobi, an annual grass) Date: Fri, 18 Feb 94 15:36:31 PST Organization: University of California, Berkeley Lines: 29 Message-ID: <2k3k2e$t8b@agate.berkeley.edu> References: <18FEB94.20383587@shrsys.hslc.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: largo.ucop.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In article <18FEB94.20383587@shrsys.hslc.org>, writes: > Date: Sat, 19 Feb 1994 01:38:35 GMT > We're finally having nice weather here in Central PA--the temperature hit 60 > degrees today! So I'm thinking about what to plant in my annual garden > this year. My grandmother used to grow a plant called Job's Tears. I > don't remember what the plant itself looked like, but the seeds are > about the size of a pea and are gray in color. My grandmother said that > in the old days country women who couldn't afford jewelry would string > the seeds of the Job's Tear like beads and make necklaces out of them. > I've seen some of the necklaces and they actually are rather pretty. > Does anyone know where I can get Job's Tears seeds to plant? Karen - I don't have a source off-hand, but this may help you locate it: "Coix lacryma-jobi, Job's Tears. Perennial grass grown as annual in colder climates. A curiosity grown for its ornamental 'beads'. Loose growing with smooth, prominently jointed stems to 6ft. Leaves to 2ft long, 1.5in wide, sword shaped. Outside covering of female flower hardens as seed ripens; becomes a shining pearly white, gray, or violet bead .25-1.5in across. String beads in bracelets, rosaries or other articles. Cut stems for winter arrangements before seeds dry and shatter. Sun or shade; ordinary soil." Sunset Western Garden Book Sean A. O'Hara, Oakland, Calif. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org !news.dorsai.org !not-for-mail Tue Feb 22 23:29:32 EST 1994 Article: 26779 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org !news.dorsai.org !not-for-mail From: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: pole bean supports Date: 18 Feb 1994 20:24:57 -0500 Organization: Dorsai Embassy Lines: 23 Sender: dawyd@news.dorsai.org Message-ID: References: <0ewsHc1w165w@salzo.Cary.NC.US> Reply-To: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org NNTP-Posting-Host: dorsai.dorsai.org In article , Darin McGrew wrote: >lkinard@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Lyric Kinard) writes: >>Does anyone have great ideas for easy pole bean supports? I'm planning to >>put some beautiful scarlet runners and hyacinth bean vines in my garden >>which will be right out in fron t where the world (and the sun) can see >>them. Tipi's or trellises are fine but I don't know what to make them out >>of and as per usual in my case, cost is the most important factor! > >My wife and I use thin-wall electrical conduit for trellising >vines in our veggie garden. It comes in 10' lengths, which cost >about $1-2 each, depending on the diameter you use. You can My wife and I used 6'bamboo poles driven into the ground with another pole on top with string tied in verticle and horizontal rows. It seemed to work well, it was cheap, and we will use the bamboo again this year. The poles were a bit pricey at $20.00 for 6 but we can reuse them. I thought at first that the top pole might come lose since we just had it tied together with wire but there was no problem. "The world is indeed comic, but the joke is | David Gurzynski on mankind." H.P. Lovecraft | Brooklyn NY Science does not remove the terror of the Gods | dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Tue Feb 22 23:29:33 EST 1994 Article: 26780 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!yale!yale.edu!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: Lavonne Stein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gardening magazines (was: Re: OG email update) Date: Fri, 18 Feb 94 21:53:03 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 10 Message-ID: References: <1994Feb7.151220.16637@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1b.delphi.com X-To: Bryan Miller regarding gardening magazines-fine gardening is far and away the best-practical information, great illustrations, some of the bestgarden writers around appear in fine gardening. also regarding "deadbeat letters" i looked at the one free issue of "beautiful gardens" (a piece of useless fluff) per their offer, and decided not to get it. there i was going my merry way, whe the nastygrams started coming in from them demanding to know why i was enjoying their great magazine and not paying for it. i ignored the first nastygram, thinking they were nutso, but when a second and really insulting one came, i sent them a nastygram myself, including a critique of their magazine, just to assure them i was not reading it on the sly. wierd people at that magazine. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!utcsri!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!haldas Tue Feb 22 23:29:34 EST 1994 Article: 26781 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!utcsri!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!haldas From: haldas@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu (Gene Haldas) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Coffee Filters in compost pile? Message-ID: <2k3sbq$shg@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> Date: 19 Feb 94 02:08:58 GMT References: Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 14 NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet2.scri.fsu.edu bermes@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (Terry Bermes) writes: > Hello, > Recently I've started collecting cans of coffee grounds and > filters from work and dumping them in my compost pile. The problem, > I think, is that it seems to be much more filter than coffee. Do any > of you more experienced composters have any feelings or knowledge one > way or another regarding this? > > terry We compost our coffee filters along with the coffee grounds etc. -- -- Gene Haldas -- Tallahassee, Florida From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!lysator.liu.se!ceci Tue Feb 22 23:29:35 EST 1994 Article: 26782 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!lysator.liu.se!ceci From: ceci@lysator.liu.se (Ceci Henningsson) Subject: Re: good/bad taste survey Message-ID: Sender: news@lysator.liu.se (The news user) References: <1994Feb8.005550.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 20:07:59 GMT Lines: 64 wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu writes: > Obviously, anyone interested in creating a garden wants it to be > beautiful. What I would like to know is, what do you consider to be > "tasteful", when creating a garden. Specifically: Intriguing questions. >1. What is your definition of good taste? It has a lot to do with context. A pink plastic flamingo (to use the rec.gardens favorite hate object :) can be in good taste, if it is set in the right surroundings. Even marigolds in front of titillating pink dahlias can be in good taste, if it's that kind of garden. But these are extremes and extremely hard to place well. > 2. What five things do you consider to be in very good taste in a > garden Again, this has a lot to do with context, but I'll name a few things I love: 1. Keeping in style. A Japanese stone lantern looks smashing beneath an azalea, but out of place in the middle of a circular chamomile lawn. The reverse is true for a Victorian sundial. 2. Items which cater to other senses than the visual. Lavender hedges, trickling streams, smooth stonebenches. 3. The right mix of formality and informality. If you opt for a very formal look, the lines should be straight, the ornaments symmetrically placed and the sundial belongs _exactly_ in the middle of the circular lawn. 4. Structure. Every garden needs some kind of structure. It doesn't need to be easily discernible, but it should be there, gently holding in the curves where needed and acting as a framework. This goes particularly for extremely informal plantings, as in a cottage garden. 5. Rich planting. I just love when there are plants everywhere with lots of petal area. >3. What five things do you consider to be in the worst taste? 1. Underplanting. When even in August you can still see lots of bare soil between plants, it's just ugly. 2. Colour clashes. I hate when it's obvious that people buy plants just because they have bright colours, and don't consider how the colours blend in the actual situation. 3. Badly planned gardens. You can often see that a family bought a fine specimen (a peony for instance) and then they just put it in the middle of the lawn. Or a bit to the side. I feel physically uncomfortable when I see something like that. 4. Huge conifers dwarfing the house. 5. Gardens which are there just to impress the neighbours. Typically these are planned so that you can see the roses from the street, but not from the house. Dull! My own garden is colour coordinated (white-pink-blue) over-ornamented (but with no pink flamingos) and partly informal, partly formal. :) But I have two ponds. On 55 square meters. Regards, --Ceci -- =====ceci@lysator.liu.se=========================================== Linkoeping, Sweden. 15^35'E, 58^23'N on Bressel's elipsoid. =================================================================== From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!burrow.cl.msu.edu!web Tue Feb 22 23:29:35 EST 1994 Article: 26783 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!burrow.cl.msu.edu!web From: Jburgess@gopher.science.wayne.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Date: 19 Feb 1994 04:22:32 GMT Organization: Michigan State University Lines: 2 Message-ID: <2k4468$jmh@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: burrow.cl.msu.edu Originator: web@burrow.cl.msu.edu I have had a serious problem with slugs in my garden, especially on the peas. Do you think that other Iron compounds (Ferric Ammonium Sufate) would be as effective? I really can't seem to give them enough beer! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!mozart.amil.jhu.edu!jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu!aplcenmp!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha Tue Feb 22 23:29:36 EST 1994 Article: 26784 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!mozart.amil.jhu.edu!jhunix.hcf.jhu.edu!aplcenmp!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha From: martha@baervan.nmt.edu (Martha Cather) Subject: Re: Signs of spring Message-ID: <1994Feb18.211036.3971@nmt.edu> Sender: news@nmt.edu (News software) Nntp-Posting-Host: baervan Organization: PRRC-New Mexico Tech, Socorro NM References: <1994Feb14.231456.11664@nicmad.uucp> <1994Feb17.191050.14976@gw.wmich.edu> Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 21:10:36 GMT Lines: 10 Well, here in NM the true sign of spring is the appearance of spring winds. Today is apparently, the first day of spring. We get wind in the winter, but somehow most of the dirt stays on the ground. Spring winds, however, tend to redistribute it and there's a whole bunch of it in the sky today. Also in my eyes, ears, nose, on the windowsills, etc...... Martha, in the land of the tumbling tumbleweed email: martha@baervan.nmt.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!burrow.cl.msu.edu!web Tue Feb 22 23:29:37 EST 1994 Article: 26785 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!burrow.cl.msu.edu!web From: jburgess@gopher.science.wayne.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Newsgroup rec.gardens, Articles 32429-32458 Date: 19 Feb 1994 04:32:55 GMT Organization: Michigan State University Lines: 2 Message-ID: <2k44pn$177f@msuinfo.cl.msu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: burrow.cl.msu.edu Originator: web@burrow.cl.msu.edu Last year I grew Yellow Pixie II tomatoes which I recieved free from Burpee's. It was the first time I ever had ripe tomatoes in early Jul,(I live in Michigan) and I wondered if anyone has seen this variety, or a similar one in any catalogs. I really want to buy more, since there are only a few seeds left. Thanks a lot. (I'm on the GEnie gardening BBS 2, if that's easier) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Tue Feb 22 23:29:38 EST 1994 Article: 26786 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: Lavonne Stein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mellingers? Date: Fri, 18 Feb 94 21:39:07 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 4 Message-ID: References: <1994Feb3.142252.7829@brtph560.bnr.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1b.delphi.com X-To: Emily Smith regarding mellingers, although i havent tried them havent heard anything bad either. suspect they are reliable. if you want inexpensive plants try perpetual perennials they have a variety of plant sizes and even the "babies" have done well for me and they have one of the most varied selections anywhere. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!rteeter Tue Feb 22 23:29:39 EST 1994 Article: 26787 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!rteeter From: rteeter@netcom.com (Robert Teeter) Subject: Anglophiles wanted Message-ID: Summary: Anglophiles Keywords: Anglophiles Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) Date: Sat, 19 Feb 1994 06:45:15 GMT Lines: 6 Hey all you Anglophile gardeners, here's your chance to express an opinion. We're going to be in England in May. What would you say are your five favorite gardens in Southern England (say, from Stratford south)? We know about the Chelsea Flower Show already. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson Tue Feb 22 23:29:39 EST 1994 Article: 26788 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ivgate!axolotl!mtask!Bob.Batson From: Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Question? Potatoes Message-ID: <46.2d6474fa@axolotl> Date: 17 Feb 94 15:39:05 CST Reply-To: bob.batson@mtask.omahug.org Organization: Multitasking Systems, Kansas City Sender: news@axolotl.omahug.org (UUscan 1.10) Followup-To: rec.gardens Lines: 12 westendorf@cobra.uni.edu) writes: > I have alot of potatoes left from my garden last year, don't remember > the > kind. Can I plant them this year and get a new crop of potatoes? > The potatoes are still firm and haven't been sprayed with a sprout > control product. Thanks Sure! Treat them as seed potatoes -- plant tubers with 2 or more "eyes." Bob From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!cw497 Tue Feb 22 23:29:40 EST 1994 Article: 26789 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!cw497 From: cw497@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (D. L. Pultorak) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Tillinghast Seed Co. Date: 19 Feb 1994 08:16:47 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 5 Message-ID: <2k4htf$kgf@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu I've been trying to come up with an address or phone number for the Tillinghast Seed Co.without any luck.I believe they're loca- ted in Oregon....Portland possibly.Any info would be a great help. Thanks Dave From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!uunet!bcstec!bronte!cocoa!davidk Tue Feb 22 23:29:41 EST 1994 Article: 26790 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!uunet!bcstec!bronte!cocoa!davidk From: davidk@atc.boeing.com (Dave Kerlick (206) 865-5051) Subject: Re: Xylophilia (was: Biggest thing alive) Message-ID: <1994Feb18.211117.18249@grace.rt.cs.boeing.com> Sender: usenet@grace.rt.cs.boeing.com (For news) Reply-To: davidk@atc.boeing.com Organization: Boeing Computer Services References: <2jtip0$god@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 21:11:17 GMT Lines: 10 Not to one-up, but I hear tell of an Aspen grove in Colorado that is all the same genes, covers tens of square miles, and is arguably immortal (millions of years in the same spot with the same gene complement)... --- ====== I don't speak for the Boeing Company. I never have. =================== G. David Kerlick,Ph.D., Advanced Computing Technologies, Research & Technology Boeing Computer Services P.O. Box 24346, MS 7L-43, Seattle, WA 98124-0346 Work phone: 206-865-5051 Fax: 206-865-2965 davidk@espresso.cs.rt.boeing.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!mayonews.mayo.edu!Cernohous Tue Feb 22 23:29:42 EST 1994 Article: 26791 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!mayonews.mayo.edu!Cernohous From: icernohous@mayo.edu (Cernohous) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RE: Sensitive Plant Date: 18 Feb 1994 22:43:59 GMT Organization: Mayo Foundation Lines: 8 Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[4494] Message-ID: <2k3gbf$446@fermat.mayo.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: lib5.mayo.edu X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0@fermat.mayo.edu. Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name. Thanks for all the information regarding sensitive plant. One more question... Is it advicable to plant them indoor in Minnesota?? We get down to the -ve temp a lot in winter time and I wonder if they with just not going to survive?? Will some kind of Heat lamp help?? All response are welcome. Thanks Immaculata From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!igor.rutgers.edu!dziuxsolim.rutgers.edu!eden.rutgers.edu!dlau Tue Feb 22 23:29:43 EST 1994 Article: 26792 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!igor.rutgers.edu!dziuxsolim.rutgers.edu!eden.rutgers.edu!dlau From: dlau@eden.rutgers.edu (Dana Lau) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: damping off Summary: how prevent damping off? Keywords: damping off Message-ID: Date: 19 Feb 94 16:05:39 GMT Distribution: usa Organization: Rutgers Univ., New Brunswick, N.J. Lines: 1 I am getting ready to start my spring seedlings but I always lose a bunch with damping off. What are some ways of preventing this? Am I watering too much? After this winter I would love to get a jump on Spring! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.uiowa.edu!panda Tue Feb 22 23:29:47 EST 1994 Article: 26793 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.uiowa.edu!panda From: geoff johnson Newsgroups: rec.gardens,alt.agriculture.misc Subject: Re: Info on Butterfly gardens? Date: 19 Feb 1994 16:40:45 GMT Organization: U of Iowa Panda System Lines: 8 Distribution: inet Message-ID: <761675593-0-15952@chop.isca.uiowa.edu> References: <1994Feb16.101227.3780@tower> <1994Feb17.152607.3801@tower> Reply-To: sidhe@chop.isca.uiowa.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: chop.isca.uiowa.edu Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:26793 alt.agriculture.misc:597 Bellevue Butterfly Gardens would probably know some other organizations and have some info, but I can't find the address. Sorry. --- GLJOHNSON IV From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!mwara1.life.uiuc.edu!user Tue Feb 22 23:29:48 EST 1994 Article: 26794 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!mwara1.life.uiuc.edu!user From: n-hyland@uiuc.edu (Nan Hyland) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Neophyte Tomato Question Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 19 Feb 1994 17:52:25 GMT Organization: University of Illinois Lines: 5 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: mwara1.life.uiuc.edu What does determinate and indeterminate mean? I see this a lot in seed catalogs. Nan Hyland n-hyland@uiuc.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Tue Feb 22 23:29:49 EST 1994 Article: 26795 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: How to get rec.gardens FAQs, Archives Message-ID: <1994Feb19.094219.23163@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 19 Feb 94 09:42:19 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 196 The listing below tells you how to get to FAQ's and archives for rec.gardens and some other news groups. Also at sunsite, you can get Una Smith's Invaluable "Biologist's Guide to Internet Resources" under the directory /pub/academic/biology/ecology+evolution. Smith's guide has extensive listings of mail lists of interest to biologists, as well as FTP sites, newsgroups, and how-to-get-the-goodies information. The following was written by Larry London, who's done such a nice job of maintaining the archives... thanks, Larry! Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI ------------------------------------------------------------ Accessing FAQlists for rec.gardens, rec.woodworking, rec.crafts.metalworking, rec.food.sourdough, rec.food.veg, alt.meditation, sci.life-extension, alternative energy and archives of other information on these, related subjects and sustainable agriculture at sunSITE.unc.edu. ------------------------------------------------------------ anonymous ftp: ftp sunsite.unc.edu cd pub/academic cd agriculture/sustainable_agriculture cd recgardens [the FAQs are here] -or- cd medicine/alternative-healthcare -or- cd environment/alternative-energy/miscellaneous telnet: telnet sunsite.unc.edu Login: gopher Enter term type: (vt100 works fine) -Gopher Menu- The Worlds of sunSITE Sustainable Agriculture Information SunSITE Sustainable Agriculture Information recgardens [the FAQs are here] -and- The Worlds of SunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic agriculture sustainable_agriculture recgardens The Worlds of sunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic environment alternative energy miscellaneous The Worlds of sunSITE browse sunSITE archives academic medicine alternative healthcare Various Internet resources archived at sunSITE in the above directories: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Newsgroups and mailing lists: Reading alt.sustainable.agriculture gives you everything flowing through the sustag-public and sanet-mg lists in addition to any articles posted directly to the newsgroup. [Listed are host systems (i.e. mailing list server site address, mailing list name, and name of newsgroup that it's gated to, if at all] Mailing Lists: -------------- List name: sustag-public Host server: almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Post articles to: sustag-public@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Gated to: alt.sustainable.agriculture [sanet-mg is gated read-only to this newsgroup _not_ to the mailing list] List name: sanet-mg (Sustainable Agriculture Network mail group) Host server: almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu Post articles to: sanet-mg@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu List name: forage-mg Host server: almanac@oes.orst.edu Post articles to: forage-mg@oes.orst.edu Other mailing lists: wetnet soils-l agmodels-l agric-l bee-l hydro-l devel-l indknow-l aqua-l marine-l gardens-l cohousing-l Usenet Newsgroups: ------------------ sci.agriculture alt.sustainable.agriculture alt.agriculture.misc alt.agriculture.fruit Others: rec.gardens misc.rural alt.folklore.herbs alt.co-evolution sci.bio sci.bio.ecology sci.geo.geology sci.geo.meteorology sci.aquaria bionet plants bionet mycology bionet photosynthesis bionet cellbiology bionet general bionet.agroforestry bionet.n2-fixation bionet.biology.tropical alt.architecture.alternative alt.housing.nontrad sci.energy misc.health.alternative sci.life-extension alt.health.ayurveda alt.meditation misc.health.diabetes rec.food.veg sci.med.nutrition sci.med.pharmacy alt.food.fat-free Other mailing lists: -------------------- >From almanac@twosocks.ces.ncsu.edu: renew-energy (Renewable Energy) nc-solar (North Carolina Solar Energy Resources) NAT_MED (Natural Medicine) ENV_RES (Environmental Resources) >From mailserv@iris.uncg.edu: MaxLife-L (Towards a Positive, Healthy Lifestyle) Articles in all of the mailing lists and newsgroups listed above, FAQs and other information are archived at sunSITE. They are accesable by ftp, telnet, Gopher, WWW, WAIS & FTPMail. - For more information contact: Lawrence London london@sunSITE.unc.edu sunSITE ftp directories: /pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture /pub/academic/environment/alternative-energy/miscellaneous /pub/academic/medicine/alternative-healthcare Paul Jones Paul_Jones@unc.edu Office for Information Technology University of North Carolina Chapel, Hill, N.C. 1-919-962-9107 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!gatekeeper.us.oracle.com!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl2.crl.com!not-for-mail Tue Feb 22 23:29:50 EST 1994 Article: 26796 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!gatekeeper.us.oracle.com!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl2.crl.com!not-for-mail From: hempster@crl.com (Alan Silverman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Date: 19 Feb 1994 13:12:05 -0800 Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access (415) 705-6060 [login: guest] Lines: 12 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2k5vb5$qhp@crl2.crl.com> References: <0E062001.ofdig1@pfa.pfa.com.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: crl2.crl.com We got a couple of ducks! They ate the snails and left the garden alone, but then one weekend while were gone, the dog ate the ducks. Lucky for that dog we're peaceful vegetarians! -alan -- Hemp Products and Services Got It Covered If you'ld like to receive mailings P.O.Box 14627 that relate to legal cannabis hemp Santa Rosa, CA 95402 products, send us your USMail address. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!constellation!osuunx.ucc.okstate.edu!mwg4265 Tue Feb 22 23:29:50 EST 1994 Article: 26797 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!paladin.american.edu!constellation!osuunx.ucc.okstate.edu!mwg4265 From: mwg4265@osuunx.ucc.okstate.edu (Gates) Subject: Re: flys and dirt Message-ID: <1994Feb19.203816.16184@osuunx.ucc.okstate.edu> Organization: Oklahoma State University Computer Center References: <2j88l3$qfs@apakabar.cc.columbia.> <1453300469@cdp> Date: Sat, 19 Feb 1994 20:38:16 GMT Lines: 10 Telling the difference between springtails and fungus gnats is easy - fungus gnats have wings and fly quite readily. Springtails may seem to fly, but actually they have an abdominal extension called a furcula that is usually "hooked" to the bottom of the critter. However, when disturbed, the release the furcula from the catch and this propels them quite a distance - much like a flea jumping. Both insects are about the same size- although the springtails are often smaller. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ai181 Tue Feb 22 23:29:51 EST 1994 Article: 26798 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ai181 From: ai181@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mary Seal) Subject: Re: damping off Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: ai181@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mary Seal) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: Date: Sat, 19 Feb 1994 22:07:28 GMT Lines: 12 In a previous article, dlau@eden.rutgers.edu (Dana Lau) says: >I am getting ready to start my spring seedlings but I always lose a bunch with damping off. What are some ways of preventing this? Am I watering too much? After this winter I would love to get a jump on Spring! > For the past couple of years I have been using a product called NO DAMP OFF. It is made from spagnum moss, and so far has been 100% successful. Mary -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Tue Feb 22 23:29:52 EST 1994 Article: 26799 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Neophyte Tomato Question Message-ID: <1994Feb19.161840.23176@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 19 Feb 94 16:18:40 -0600 References: Followup-To: rec.gardens Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 14 In article , n-hyland@uiuc.edu (Nan Hyland) writes: > What does determinate and indeterminate mean? I see this a lot in seed > catalogs. Determinate means that the flowers are all formed about once... hence all the fruits are ripe at the same time. This is the type you want for a major canning project. Indeterminate means the flowers are borne in succession for a long period of time... so you get a small supply of fruits ripening constantly. Good choice for tomatoes for the table. Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!yeshua.marcam.com!news.kei.com!ub!rutgers!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!tribune.usask.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!mercury.arc.ab.ca!titan.arc.ab.ca!falk Tue Feb 22 23:29:52 EST 1994 Article: 26800 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!yeshua.marcam.com!news.kei.com!ub!rutgers!utcsri!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!tribune.usask.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!mercury.arc.ab.ca!titan.arc.ab.ca!falk From: falk@titan.arc.ab.ca Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Morningglory from seed? Message-ID: <1994Feb17.132049.1@titan.arc.ab.ca> Date: 17 Feb 94 20:20:49 GMT References: <2jge5n$62p@apollo.it.luc.edu> Sender: news@arc.ab.ca (USENET News System) Organization: Alberta Research Council Lines: 10 Nntp-Posting-Host: titan.arc.ab.ca In article <2jge5n$62p@apollo.it.luc.edu>, rolson@orion.it.luc.edu (Rick T. Olson) writes: > I have heard that morning glory does not transplant well and should be > started from seed directly in the garden. Is this true? Thanks. > --Rick In my limited experience, it's true. I've had about 75% success rate with peat pots, however. Another hint: soak the seed for a few hours before planting. It speeds germination dramatically. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Tue Feb 22 23:29:53 EST 1994 Article: 26801 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Anglophiles wanted Message-ID: <1994Feb19.162943.23183@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 19 Feb 94 16:29:43 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 23 In article , rteeter@netcom.com (Robert Teeter) writes: > Hey all you Anglophile gardeners, here's your chance to express an > opinion. We're going to be in England in May. What would you say are > your five favorite gardens in Southern England (say, from Stratford south)? > We know about the Chelsea Flower Show already. Well... kinda depends what you're looking for: I got lots of good ideas from visiting the RHS gardens at Wisley, esp. in terms of landscaping, but for sheer variety of species (not quite as artistically handled), Kew is marvelous. I enjoyed quick stops at the Museum of Garden History (Tradescant's Garden) at St. Mary's Lambeth, and the Chelsea Physick Garden, both primarily for their historical associations. (and frankly, the volunteers and the setting at Tradescant charmed me endlessly!). But the two best gardens I've been to in Great Britain? hard to make a choice, but I think I'm partial to two non-English gardens: Bodnant in Wales for both the landscaping and setting, and use of plants, and "The Botanic" in Edinburgh... meticulously maintained, wonderful setting, wonderful selection of plants, and the guards who threw me out at sunset were extraordinarily nice (I didn't hear the "garden closing" people, as I was too busy talking pictures of Meconopsis species... ;-) ) Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Tue Feb 22 23:29:55 EST 1994 Article: 26802 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: Neophyte Tomato Question Distribution: world References: <1994Feb19.161840.23176@cobra.uni.edu> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 25 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 1994 23:53:37 +0000 Message-ID: <761702017snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk The following *isn't* intended as a comment on the last post from Kay Klier who, I'm sure, knows a heck of a lot more about botany than I do. I'm posting because I suspect there may be another interpretation of determinate and indeterminate which the questioner might like to know. It is often used in seed catalogues in this way and can have strong bearing on which seeds you buy. Better than make up my own version, I'll just quote the RHS Encyclopedia, as that puts it very cogently: 'The main trailing stem of the indeterminate (mid-size, non-bushy) types grows to over 2.5m (8ft) long in warm climates, with vigorous sideshoots. The shorter (semi-determinate) types and the bush (determinate) types stop growing earlier than the indeterminates, with the stems ending in a fruit truss.' I've always taken that to mean that, in practical terms, indeterminates are grown on the cordon system, while determinates are grown as bushes. Therefore, the former you take out the sideshoots, the latter you don't etc etc. As I say, I am *not* suggestings the previous post was wrong - I'm sure it wasn't. I just hope this information helps as well. Incidentally, if there is a difference in the use of these terms between the U.K. and U.S.A. I'd be very grateful to be informed as it could come in useful! -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!torn!govonca!boultor Tue Feb 22 23:29:56 EST 1994 Article: 26803 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!torn!govonca!boultor From: boultor@govonca.gov.on.ca (Ross Boulton) Subject: MOE GREEN LAWN CARE (a rodents view) Message-ID: <1994Feb20.013831.3870@govonca.gov.on.ca> Summary: a view of lawn care as told by a rodent Keywords: lawn Organization: Government of Ontario Date: Sun, 20 Feb 1994 01:38:31 GMT Lines: 109 MOE GREEN'S LAWN CARE (from a rodent's view) I am a woodland creature who frequents the gardener's property. His lawn is healthy. A thick, healthy lawn won't have as many problems, so the trick is maintenance. WATERING This morning, I watched the gardener place a can on his lawn and start the sprinkler. When the can measures about 3 cm of water, he moves the sprinkler. He does this one morning a week during dry spells. Morning watering allows the sun to dry the leaves because dampness encourages disease. Remember to follow the water restrictions. FERTILIZING The gardener fertilizes a couple of times in the spring but never after mid-July. Late fertilizing encourages growth during drought conditions making the grass weak. The fertilizer should have a high nitrogen content (that's the first number of the three). 21-7-7 would be fine. Plants don't care if the fertilizer is chemical or organic base, but chemical fertilizers will leave salts in the soil that taste bad. MOWING >From the bushes, I watched the gardener unscrew the lawn mower blade and file it sharp. Grass cut with a sharp mower blade heals faster and prevent disease. He keeps the mower high (about 4-6 cm) to get strong roots. He never removes more than 1/3 of the grass blade. If the grass clippings are light, they can be left on the lawn to become future fertilizer. I stay away when I hear the lawn mower. DETHATCHING & AERATING Last fall he rented equipment to dethatch and aerate the lawn. Dethatching removes the dead leafs, stems and roots that build up on the lawn. The thatch prevents water from getting to the roots and is a great place for disease to start. He removes the thatch if it's greater than 1" thick. The aerator walked across the lawn taking plugs, about the size of corks, out of the ground. This breaks up the compacted soil. I do the same thing when I dig, but this is much faster. The plugs disappear after a couple of rains. Then he rakes some topsoil into the lawn and seeds. This is the easy way to renovate a lawn. WEEDS I like to nibble on clover in lawn. It stays green all summer and adds nitrogen to the soil. A few weeds in the lawn are tolerable. The gardener battles the weeds by having a lawn so thick that weeds cannot get in. If the weeds get out of hand he sprays them with an appropriate herbicide. I stay home when I see him with the rubber boots and gloves. WHITE GRUBS There were lots of white grubs to eat last winter. The birds also like to ate them. The skunks did alot of damage digging up the grubs to eat. If you see any grubs, pick them out by hand. Fish bait? Pesticides will not affect them in the spring, so don't poison my grub. They will be pupating soon, so damage will be minor. In late June the beetle flies and lays eggs. The beetle taste good but it's crunchy. The larva is most vulnerable about mid-July, that's the time to spray, if you have too. Make sure you water the lawn before and after spraying. CHINCH BUG I have no interest in the Chinch Bug. They are too small to make a meal. The only way to find chinch bug is to cutoff both ends of a can and force one end into the ground. Fill the can with water and the bugs will float to the surface. HERBICIDES, INSECTICIDE & FUNGICIDE Chemicals cannot be expected to make up for lack of fertility, poor soil, drainage problems or neglect. Use them only as a last resort. When chemical control is necessary, read and follow the directions. I suggest you read "The Organic Approach to Home Gardening" available at MOE. Other publications from Ag and Food are: Recommendations for Turfgrass Management; Turfgrass disease & insect pests; Weed Control in Lawns & Gardens. Please look after your lawn because it is my home too. MOE GREEN -- """ (o o) ===================================oOO==(_)==OOo================== | | | Ross Boulton boultor@gov.on.ca (Internet)| | Regional Systems Co-ordinator envswrn1:boultoro (Ministry)| | Ministry of the Environment Phone (519) 661-2263 | | 985 Adelaide St. S. FAX: (519) 661-1742 | | London, Ont N6E 1V3 | | | ================================================================== From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ddsw1!not-for-mail Tue Feb 22 23:29:56 EST 1994 Article: 26804 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ddsw1!not-for-mail From: synic@MCS.COM (Kevin Conway) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Thanks Date: 19 Feb 1994 20:03:28 -0600 Organization: Another MCSNet Subscriber, Chicago's First Public-Access Internet! Lines: 11 Message-ID: <2k6gdg$geo@Mercury.mcs.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mercury.mcs.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2 (KSD)] I wanted to thank the regular readers of this newsgroup for the postings and e-mail which I received in response to my "not so mighty Oak" posting. I have compiled the responses and forwarded them to my landscaping friend. Kevin Conway synic@mcs.com -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news.cs.uwindsor.ca!tassiel Tue Feb 22 23:29:57 EST 1994 Article: 26805 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news.cs.uwindsor.ca!tassiel From: tassiel@server.uwindsor.ca (The Equalizer) Subject: Capillary action planting pots Message-ID: Sender: news@uwindsor.ca (Usenet) Organization: University of Windsor, Ontario, Canada Distribution: na Date: Sun, 20 Feb 1994 02:58:47 GMT Lines: 11 Hello! Can How does the capillary action of the pot work, extremely interested? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Tue Feb 22 23:29:58 EST 1994 Article: 26806 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Potato growing, revised post Message-ID: <30@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 19 Feb 94 16:58:49 GMT References: <21@oeonline.UUCP> Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 35 I have been having problems with the following post and I hope you will have patience with me. It has apparently been reposted over and over again in a nearly unreadable form. //pk\\ clb5q@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Cheryl L. Boyd) writes: > Has anyone had experience with growing potatos by just laying > them on top of the beds and covering them over with 6" of straw > or rotted hay mulch? I don't grow potatoes *entirely* above ground, but I do use a heavy mulch of hay and straw. This mulch should be AT LEAST 12 inches thick, possibly thicker, to avoid green potatoes. I place unsprouted, whole seed potatoes so that they are half buried in the soil, no closer than one per square foot. If I can, I prefer to use pre-sproute> d potatoes. These I place in shallow holes and v-e-r-y gently cover with loose soil. (The soil supports/protects the fragile sprouts when you pile the hay on.) Next I mulch with old hay and/or straw, piling it up about 12" deep. I use some huge old pl> anks tied together at the corners to confine the mulch to the potato bed. (My garden consists of 4' x 8' permanent beds, separated by paths mulched with old carpet.) Later in the season, I will add more hay as the original mulch settles. The majority of the tubers are formed at the surface, with an occasional spud below ground. As I harvest potatoes, I throw the mulch on top of the rest of the bed. I never harvest more than I need for a particular meal, and use the heavy mulch to store the potatoes _in situ_ as long as possible. (I would think if your mulch was thick enough, this could be all winter. I can't say, as we manage to eat all of our potatoes before the end of December...) -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com "Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn." -- Garrison Keillor From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Tue Feb 22 23:29:59 EST 1994 Article: 26807 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Job's Tears (Coix lacryma-jobi, an annual grass) Message-ID: <31@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 19 Feb 94 16:58:50 GMT References: <18FEB94.20383587@shrsys.hslc.org> <2k3k2e$t8b@agate.berkeley.edu> Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 29 In article <18FEB94.20383587@shrsys.hslc.org>, writes: > Date: Sat, 19 Feb 1994 01:38:35 GMT > We're finally having nice weather here in Central PA--the temperature hit 60 > degrees today! So I'm thinking about what to plant in my annual garden > this year. My grandmother used to grow a plant called Job's Tears. I > don't remember what the plant itself looked like, but the seeds are > about the size of a pea and are gray in color. My grandmother said that > in the old days country women who couldn't afford jewelry would string > the seeds of the Job's Tear like beads and make necklaces out of them. > I've seen some of the necklaces and they actually are rather pretty. > Does anyone know where I can get Job's Tears seeds to plant? > Stoke's carries seeds of Job's Tears (_Coix lachrymae_), listed under 'ornamental grasses'. Stokes Seed Box 458, Buffalo NY 14240-0548 TEL 716-695-6980 FAX 716-695-9649 I get a *lot* of catalogs, mainly north-east and widwest sources. Stokes was the only catalog carrying these seeds. -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com "Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn." -- Garrison Keillor From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!alpha.epas.utoronto.ca!epas.utoronto.ca!ldolezel Tue Feb 22 23:30:00 EST 1994 Article: 26808 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!uknet!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!alpha.epas.utoronto.ca!epas.utoronto.ca!ldolezel From: ldolezel@epas.utoronto.ca (Lubomir Dolezel) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.birds Subject: Re: Landscaping for Wildlife (Shrubs & Vines) Date: 20 Feb 1994 12:50:01 GMT Organization: EPAS Computing Facility, University of Toronto Lines: 13 Sender: ntraill@vm1.yorku.ca Distribution: world Message-ID: <2k7m9p$3cj@alpha.epas.utoronto.ca> References: <2ju1ut$npk@news.doit.wisc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: epas.utoronto.ca Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:26808 rec.birds:8647 This is just a cautionary word about Mr. Heim's reference to Taxus (Yew) where he notes incorrectly that birds eat Yew seeds. They in fact eat the red fleshy berry and expel the seeds intact. All parts of Taxus - leaves, bark and seeds - contain the very poisonous alkaloid taxine. Since even 2 seeds (the small black 'kernel' that sits visibly in a depression in the red berry) are potentially fatal to humans if they are damaged or cracked in any way, I wouldn't like to think of anyone deliberately collecting yew seeds and feeding them to animals of any kind. (Of course, if the berries are left on the tree/shrub, the birds will deal with them properly). Nancy Traill (ntraill@vm1.yorku.ca) York University, Toronto From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!kuhub.cc.ukans.edu!hubble.asymetrix.com!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer Tue Feb 22 23:30:01 EST 1994 Article: 26809 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!kuhub.cc.ukans.edu!hubble.asymetrix.com!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: orchids help Message-ID: <2k11n2$9md@news.u.washington.edu> From: bbeer@u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Date: 18 Feb 1994 00:21:54 GMT References: <761438692-0-15784@chop.isca.uiowa.edu> Distribution: inet Organization: University of Washington, Seattle NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu Lines: 47 In article <761438692-0-15784@chop.isca.uiowa.edu>, geoff johnson wrote: >I have started growing orchids and had a moth orchid lose most of its flowers >from transporting it. Does anyone have any good mail order addresses(with cost >of catalog) And can anybody give me the full names of orchids which are easy >to keep. THANKS> >--- >GLJOHNSON IV > > > > High light: Cattleyas, Phaelenopsis (moth orchids), Miltonias, are all fairly easy, and readily available. Phaelenopsis don't like to get too cold, though, so stay away from them if you keep your place cool in the winter. They languish if they get below 70, and 75 - 80 is more their comfortable range. Cymbidiums are also good, but can get really big. They need warm days and cool nights (Autumn conditions) to trigger blooms, so I just leave mine out till we start getting light frosts, then bring them in and put them in a south window. There are some miniatures available as well, if you don't like 4' high plants. :) You might try some Dendrobiums too, but their watering requirements can differ. Medium light: Miniature Cattleyas, and Paphiopedilums. Many of these do well in east windows. The Cattleyas are more often hybrids between Cattleya, Laelia, and/or Sophronitis species, and are often easier to grow than the pure species, being less exacting as to their requirements. I see you are at the U. of Iowa - Iowa City is my home town. :) You might try talking to the curator of the U.I. Botany Greenhouse - when I was there, it was Warren Dexter. He should be able to steer you in the right direction. (If you go, check out their huge Nepenthes khasiana that I gave to them as a seedling years ago, too! :) Another good guide would be in Orchid Society bulletins, and you might be able to meet other local growers and trade material. Good luck! Bob Beer From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!caen!batcomputer!cornell!uw-beaver!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ua024 Tue Feb 22 23:30:02 EST 1994 Article: 26810 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!eng.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!caen!batcomputer!cornell!uw-beaver!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ua024 From: ua024@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Diane Whitehead) Subject: Re: When does gorse bloom ? Message-ID: Sender: news@suncad.camosun.bc.ca (USENET News System) Reply-To: ua024@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Diane Whitehead) Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada References: Date: Sat, 19 Feb 1994 22:21:19 GMT Lines: 4 I learned as a child that "Kissing's not in season when gorse is not in bloom:" Around here it is expected to have the odd bloom open year round. -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!batcomputer!cornell!uw-beaver!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ua024 Tue Feb 22 23:30:03 EST 1994 Article: 26811 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!caen!batcomputer!cornell!uw-beaver!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ua024 From: ua024@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Diane Whitehead) Subject: Re: Anglophiles wanted Message-ID: Sender: news@suncad.camosun.bc.ca (USENET News System) Reply-To: ua024@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Diane Whitehead) Organization: The Victoria Freenet Association (VIFA), Victoria, B.C., Canada References: Date: Sat, 19 Feb 1994 23:10:27 GMT Lines: 43 Some of the mature rhododendron gardens I saw had plants so enormous they inspired awe but not admiration - the flowers were so far overhead they could barely be seen. Wakehurst, the southern garden belonging to Kew, was wonderful. It had a stirring history - a bride abducted by a lover while she was about to be wed to papa's choice of a husband, I think. The garden is huge, but beautifully planted, with shapes and colours of foliage taken into account, as though a flower arranger had done the planting. A Himalayan glade was being replanted when I was there 15 years ago, so that everything in it, from trees to rhododendrons to lilies and ferns would all be from the same area. There was also a large area with Australian and New Zealand plants,many plants from South America, especially Chile, a cottage garden, and so on. This is all from memory, so you can see how much it impressed me. Two lovely gardens are neighbours - Kiftsgate, with its famous giant white climbing rose, and hedges of Rosa Mundi, and Hidcote, with its many different gardens kept hidden from view by interesting hedges, all different. I filled a notebook with sketches and ideas for planting. Great Dixter was wonderful. I had read many of Christopher Lloyd's books, and really appreciated the chance to talk to him. Nymans had beautiful planting also. One of my favourite shrubs is Eucryphia nymansensis, so it was a pleasure to visit its home. Have I run out of votes? I think so. Take an umbrella, plastic shoes, towels I didn't. I was soaked to the skin many times. One problem that I wasn't expecting: the gardens open late and close rather early, so that you can't visit nearly as many places as you think you will. Then because I had to wait until 11 am to get into a garden, I would have missed lunch, which is only served until 2. I'd be starving, so I'd have tea (probably served from 4 to 5, but I can't remember), and then my appetite would be spoiled for a dinner. The restaurants all seemed to serve set dinners, no ala carte. I managed to get round it by saying I was feeling ill so I wouldn't order, and I'd then eat the soup from my husband's enormous set meal. -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!krtbrown Tue Feb 22 23:30:04 EST 1994 Article: 26812 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!krtbrown From: krtbrown@csn.org (Kurt Brown) Subject: Re: Growing Tomatoes in SE Michigan Message-ID: Sender: news@csn.org (The Daily Planet) Nntp-Posting-Host: teal.csn.org Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc. X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <2k0ko2$b4i@pascal.csid.gmeds.com> Date: Sun, 20 Feb 1994 14:48:32 GMT Lines: 23 Sally Gardner (gardner@csid.gmeds.com) wrote: : I am looking for guidance about growing tomatoes in Southeastern : Michigan. I have an herb garden so tomatoes are my first attempt at : growing vegetables. There are so many varieties out on the market and I : don't know what would grow best in this climate. Any help would be : greatly appreciated. : p.s. I was planning on starting from seeds like I do with the herbs. I : 've had great success with them. There is a seed company called High Altitude Gardens. They have an extensive listing of tomatoe seeds from Siberia. I am willing to bet that many of these varieties will do well in cold and short growing season areas. Here is the address and phone number: High Altitude Gardens PO Box 1048 Hailey, ID 83333 (208) 788-4363 (208) 788-3452 FAX From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!krtbrown Tue Feb 22 23:30:05 EST 1994 Article: 26813 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!krtbrown From: krtbrown@csn.org (Kurt Brown) Subject: Re: Advice Needed: When to Move a Tree Message-ID: Sender: news@csn.org (The Daily Planet) Nntp-Posting-Host: teal.csn.org Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc. X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <1994Feb18.183103.10442@philabs.philips.com> Date: Sun, 20 Feb 1994 14:52:00 GMT Lines: 16 Karen A Rubistello (kar@philabs.philips.com) wrote: : My husband and I have found that we have a problem with our foundation : and need to dig down to fix the situation. This means that we have : to move a 7' deciduous azalea from the front of our house. I really : dont want to harm this tree its really beautiful when it blooms in the : spring so....can someone please tell me if i can move it before it : blossoms? We wont be able to wait till fall when the tree is dormant : again (i wish i knew we had this problem in october!). : Thanks for all your help : karen The Sunset garden book for the Western States has a big section on how to move big trees. Good Luck! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Tue Feb 22 23:30:06 EST 1994 Article: 26814 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Neophyte tomato question Message-ID: <1994Feb20.114147.23220@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 20 Feb 94 11:41:47 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 46 Gary very apologetically posted a seemngly different definition of determinant and indeterminant from the Royal Hort Society... (honest, Gary, I'm not offended, and I rarely bite hard! ;-) ) Truth of the matter is, both are correct -- but both focus on different aspects of the same "problem": there are some tomatoes that continue to grow and bloom throughout the season, and others that stop growing and putting out new flowers at some point. These sorts of characters are probably influenced by a single gene or gene cluster... so they really are aspects of the same genetic information. Gary's perfectly right in focussing on the cultural aspects of growing different tomato types to perfection... but because I'm a slob gardener, with (usually, but not this year) lots and lots of garden space, I let tomatoes sprawl onto a mulch instead of staking them... and then just wade in when it's time to pick! ;-) I was thinking about the aspects of tomatoes that give *me* most pleasure -- eating -- when I wrote my answer. We each had a different part of the elephant and were earnestly attempting to describe the tail and trunk and legs... ;-) And together we managed a better description... which is what makes NEWS so much fun! :-) Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!hookup!batcomputer!cornell!uw-beaver!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ua024 Tue Feb 22 23:30:07 EST 1994 Article: 26815 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!ukma!hookup!batcomputer!cornell!uw-beaver!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!suncad!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ua024 From: ua024@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Diane Whitehead) Subject: Penstemon enthusiast wants correspondence Message-ID: Repy-To: Donald_Tucker@melink.avcnet.org Sender: news@suncad.camosun.bc.ca (USENET News System) Organization: Camosun College, Victoria, B.C. Date: Sun, 20 Feb 1994 16:36:53 GMT Lines: 11 A member of the American Penstemon Society, who is a member of a snail-mail Robin, would like to start an electronic one. If you would like to be part of a discussion group on penstemons, contact Don Tucker email: Donald_Tucker@melink.avcnet.org or "Donald J. Tucker" <73504.2654@CompuServe.COM> -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Tue Feb 22 23:30:08 EST 1994 Article: 26816 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: fountain breaking into chunks Date: 20 Feb 1994 18:49:01 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 32 Message-ID: <2k8bat$mjc@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <1994Feb18.104338.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: kanga.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu () says: >We installed a pond last year, with a concrete fountain. Because >of the fish in the pond, we were advised to keep the pump and >fountain running all wiinter. We've had the 20 below temps >for awhile--and now, when it's finally warming, the fountain >is breaking up into chunks. Is there any way to stop this? Probably not. It sounds like the freeze/thaw cycle at work. The best thing to do with fountains in areas where they can freeze is to drain them. Run an aerator in the pond, but store the fountain for the winter, if practical. If that isn't possible, wrap it in plastic to keep it as dry as you can. If water gets between the piping and the concrete and freezes, it will eventually destroy the fountain. When ice expands in even a small crack, it exerts enormous force--it can fracture granite. J. Del Col (who once watched in dismay as ice shattered a very pretty sculptured fountain that our college maintenance men failed to turn off for the winter) -- Jeff Del Col * "Sleeplessness is like metaphysics. A-B College * Be there." Philippi, WV * * ----Charles Simic---- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!news Tue Feb 22 23:30:08 EST 1994 Article: 26817 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sgiblab!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!news From: kcarroll@u.washington.edu (Kris Carroll) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Horse manure: toxic waste! Date: 20 Feb 1994 18:48:16 GMT Organization: University of Washington Lines: 6 Message-ID: <2k8b9g$bum@news.u.washington.edu> References: <1994Feb15.155911.16565@walter.cray.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: koko.pathology.washington.edu In article <1994Feb15.155911.16565@walter.cray.com> gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: > Anybody in the DC area know where I can get some of this stuff?? There is a stable in Rock Creek Park or was when I lived there. (Not to mention the trails :) Also try the zoo. Seattle has a *zoo doo* program. Free or low cost. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!Dick.Wentworth Tue Feb 22 23:30:09 EST 1994 Article: 26818 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!Dick.Wentworth From: wentwort@tiac.net (Dick Wentworth) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bumblebees underground Date: 20 Feb 1994 19:52:44 GMT Organization: The Internet Access Company Lines: 8 Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[5905] Message-ID: <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: trader.tiac.net X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0@sundog.tiac.net. Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name. I've recently moved to a new house and the garden bed has a massive bumblebee nest under it. These bees attack me and are quite unfriendly. How can I get rid of them without ruining the garden soil itself? They're sleeping now under two feet of snow, but that won't last forever :-) Thank you Cassie Wentworth From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!quack!quack.kfu.com!pharvey Tue Feb 22 23:30:10 EST 1994 Article: 26819 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sgiblab!sgigate.sgi.com!olivea!quack!quack.kfu.com!pharvey From: pharvey@quack.kfu.com (Paul Harvey) Subject: Re: conflicting info (on American chestnut) Message-ID: Sender: news@quack.kfu.com (0000-News(0000)) Organization: The Duck Pond public unix: +1 408 249 9630, log in as 'guest'. References: Date: 20 Feb 1994 20:19:41 UTC Lines: 50 In article richards@spk.hp.com (Darrell H. Richardson) writes: > I ran across some contradictory info the other day and wondered if >anybody can set me straight. > It was my understanding that the American Chestnut has been reduced >to old stumps (alive) and young trees. After the young trees grow a >while they contract the blight and die. That's pretty much the case. The American chestnut was once the dominant tree in most eastern hardwood forests. Most trees were killed outright but since the wood is rot resistant, it takes a while to decay. Some re-sprout from the roots and some may even display some resistance to the blight, but apparently no true American chestnut lives for long or long enough to produce a useful crop or wood. There are other chestnuts, from Europe, China, Korea and Japan. The European chestnut is still the leading producer of chestnuts from Europe, such as Italy - but if I recall correctly it can't take the cold winters of the eastern US. The other chestnuts can and have been imported and hybridized with the American with different results. If you find a healthy tree (I remember some as a child in the NJ woods) it is most likely not a pure American chestnut. The American chestnut has the best flavor and produces the best quality wood - thus the interest in re-establishing the tree to its native range. > The new info was in some post 1970's book (I can't remember which) >that claimed the blight does not occur west of the Rockies. Does >anybody know if this is true. This is true, more or less. There are also some eastern areas, such as Michigan, that may be free of it. Obviously it could change - all it takes is one mistake. Always check agricultural rules before moving plant material - they do serve a purpose. Dutch Elm Disease, once limited to the eastern US is now found throughout the US. > Some interesting factoids (fact?/fiction). Close by in Idaho there >is a park that has a mature (50+ years?) chestnut without the blight. >I haven't seen it yet. It may be a hybrid chestnut - or it may be a seedling of the American. Idaho is isolated - I wouldn't think the blight has reached it yet. >Washington State does not allow Chestnut trees of any variety to be >shipped to it. This I know because my brother tried to order one and >was told that they couldn't ship it here. Could this be because the >blight can occur out west, but that there are still pockets it hasn't >reached yet? That's quite correct. There are certified chestnut growers in WA and OR however so there is no need to import trees from out of state. In addition, you can grow the trees from the nuts. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan Tue Feb 22 23:30:12 EST 1994 Article: 26820 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan From: nathan@seldon.foundation.tricon.com (Number 6) Subject: Re: Sowbugs, AKA pillbugs Message-ID: <1994Feb20.050814.25439@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> Organization: Triicon Systems, Inc., Lompoc, CA References: Date: Sun, 20 Feb 1994 05:08:13 GMT Lines: 34 In article ebmeyer@uiuc.edu (Barbara Meyer) writes: >In article , ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) >wrote: >> >> My garden contains a veritable plethora of pillbugs. You know, those >> little crustaceanous bugs in the garden that roll themselves up when you >> touch them? I was wondering if anyone knows if these bugs are harmful, >> or beneficial, or neutral. >> > I've had them in my garden for years, and they've never done any harm >that I can see. They came with the house hiding mostly under the bricks >and stones that lined (and still line) most of the flower beds. I never >bothered to do anything about them even though in some years there's a >LOT of them. I didn't want to apply and poisons as they are everywhere >and I think it's been the right decision. I HAVE heard somewhere that they I seem to have a lot of problems with them on groundsitting tomatoes. They like to hide under to tomatoes (thinking they're bricks, I guess), then they get inside the tomatoes. Yuck. Now, I do realize that a tomato ripening on the ground will rot, but these guys get in as soon as the tomato hits the ground. (Funny thing I pulled up my last cherry tomatoes months ago and left them in a stack in the yard my wife went to the stack last week and retrieved four perfectly good, unrotted, redripe tomatoes from the stack.) Other than the tomatoes, the bugs don't seem to do much else in my garden. Just kind of hang out under the stepping stones. *********************************************************************** Nathan D. Lane, VP Triicon Systems. Lompoc, CA (805) 7331849 NaN != 6, 6 == 1. I am not a number, I am a free list! I'm a programmer my computers are more valuable than my cars. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!parvati2-22.wistar.upenn.edu!user Tue Feb 22 23:30:13 EST 1994 Article: 26821 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!parvati2-22.wistar.upenn.edu!user From: ruthig@wista.wistar.upenn.edu (the calico mouse) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Horse manure: toxic waste! Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 20 Feb 1994 21:48:52 GMT Organization: The Wistar Institute Lines: 18 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <2jqr4l$j0f@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> <1994Feb17.035339.17392@nmt.edu> <2k2sj5$2pf@news.bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: parvati2-22.wistar.upenn.edu In article <2k2sj5$2pf@news.bu.edu>, LKEYS@BUPULA.BU.EDU (clementine) wrote: > > Another horse manure consideration... > > I was warned by the wonderful men in my garden club not to use horse > manure. They claim that the horse does not digest weed seeds. Unless > you are certain of the horse's diet there's a good chance that you'll be > spreading weeds around your garden... > > Linda I've used horse manure and everything grew wonderfully... especially the new weeds the manure introduced. ______________________________________________________________________________ I am the calico mouse nibbling at the foundations.- Marge Piercy Lisa Ruthig ruthig@wista.wistar.upenn.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Tue Feb 22 23:30:14 EST 1994 Article: 26822 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: lizszeliga@delphi.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Birdhouse source, Purple Martins Date: Sun, 20 Feb 94 17:49:29 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 15 Message-ID: <5qxqm2x.lizszeliga@delphi.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: delphi.com My husband and I would like to install a purple martin house this year. Has anyone done this? What was your success in attracting them? We enjoy working outside (and playing!), but we don't enjoy the insects! Purple Martins are supposed to be voracious insect eaters, hence the desire to attract them. Secondly, is anyone familiar with a source of purple martin houses? Actually, they are not houses, but aluminum bird apartments(at least the ones we've seen). My concern is that they tend to be pricey - $180 or so for the house and a pole to mount it on. Is there a discount source available? Thanks, Liz From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl2.crl.com!not-for-mail Tue Feb 22 23:30:15 EST 1994 Article: 26823 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl2.crl.com!not-for-mail From: hempster@crl.com (Alan Silverman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: re: Save the American Chestnut Trees Date: 20 Feb 1994 16:32:05 -0800 Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access (415) 705-6060 [login: guest] Lines: 36 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <2k8ve5$o1i@crl2.crl.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: crl2.crl.com There was a feature article regarding chestnut trees in: Backwoods Home Magazine Jan/Feb 93 Issue #19 Cost $3.50 The article was titled "The forest king is returning". Write to: Backwoods Home 1257 Siskiyou Blvd. #213 Ashland, OR 97520 This issue talks about the blight and what is being done about it. I dont want to post the article, as I would prefer you support the magazine by ordering the backissue and possibly a subscription at the one yr rate of $17.50, but it's interesting. There is an effort to find trees that have survived the blight to see about propogating those particular trees. They direct the effort to: American Chestnut Foundation P.O.Box 6057 Morgantown, West Virginia 26506 -alan -- Hemp Products and Services Got It Covered If you'ld like to receive mailings P.O.Box 14627 that relate to legal cannabis hemp Santa Rosa, CA 95402 products, send us your USMail address. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!jmcnult Tue Feb 22 23:30:15 EST 1994 Article: 26824 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!bsd!apollo!orion.it.luc.edu!jmcnult From: jmcnult@orion.it.luc.edu (John A. Mcnulty) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Neophyte tomato question Date: 21 Feb 1994 00:34:07 GMT Organization: Loyola University of Chicago Lines: 46 Message-ID: <2k8vhv$6tq@apollo.it.luc.edu> References: <1994Feb20.114147.23220@cobra.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: orion.it.luc.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] klier@cobra.uni.edu wrote: : (snip, snip) Truth of the matter is, both : are correct -- but both focus on different aspects of the same "problem": : there are some tomatoes that continue to grow and bloom throughout the season, : and others that stop growing and putting out new flowers at some point. : it's time to pick! ;-) I was thinking about the aspects of tomatoes : that give *me* most pleasure -- eating -- when I wrote my answer. Kay, perhaps because of your position you are too diplomatic to point this out (or maybe I'm just wrong!) but it is my understanding that the determinate tomatoes were developed for the produce industry so mechanical harvesters could sweep through at one time and harvest an entire crop. Cynical, negative person I am, I assume those are varieties where *taste* is low on the value scale. BTW, I have been growing Peruvian and Ecudorian seeds that have sprawling plants with clusters of fruits ranging from smaller than cherry to smaller than Early Girl tomatoes that taste great and performed very well during the wretched summer of '93. Patty, not John From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!asuvax!pitstop.mcd.mot.com!mcdphx!schbbs!NewsWatcher!user Tue Feb 22 23:30:16 EST 1994 Article: 26825 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!asuvax!pitstop.mcd.mot.com!mcdphx!schbbs!NewsWatcher!user From: epur01@email.mot.com (Don Burns) Subject: Re: Birdhouse source, Purple Martins Organization: MOTOROLA Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 02:26:11 GMT Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens References: <5qxqm2x.lizszeliga@delphi.com> Sender: news@schbbs.mot.com (Net News) Nntp-Posting-Host: 145.2.38.80 Lines: 41 In article <5qxqm2x.lizszeliga@delphi.com>, lizszeliga@delphi.com wrote: > > My husband and I would like to install a purple martin house this year. Has > anyone done this? What was your success in attracting them? Well, its that time of the year in south Florida. The martins arrived just the other day, right on schedule. Several years ago I too got the bug to put up a martin house. I could recall when I was a kid in the Chicago suburbs watching these very talented flyers dive 100 feet or so and pull out at the last second and wanted to see the show again. We searched all over and decided to order a hexagonal shaped two story house from Sears. I think it cost about $65 or $70 at the time. It is aluminum and has a center ventilation flue to ventilate the compartments. The is important to keep the compartments from over heating. Since we got this house I have seen it advertised in a number of places but always at higher prices. (Sears is due to cease catalog sales this year, I think.) I did not buy the telescoping pole that Sears had in the catalog. Rather I used two 10 foot pieces of the horizontal top supports used for cyclone fencing and telescoped them. For base support I used a vertical 3 foot section of electrical PVC, sunk it in the ground except for two inches of it. I dont recall what size the PVC was but it was a good fit with the vertical support. Its been up now for three years. The first martins moved in 6 weeks after I erected it, and they have been back each year since. I took the house down during Andrew (the birds arrive around February 15 in south Florida but are usually gone by July 15) and take it down each January to clean the compartments. Its important to do this _before_ the martins arrive because they will reject dirty housing. But don't look for the martins to solve your flying bug problems. While they consume large numbers of flying insects, they are not _that_ efficient. BTW there are some good books on bird housing available at your local Barnes and Noble. -- Don Burns Plantation, Florida epur01@email.mot.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Tue Feb 22 23:30:17 EST 1994 Article: 26826 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!daffy!uwvax!uchinews!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 03:12:32 GMT Lines: 17 >I've recently moved to a new house and the garden bed has >a massive bumblebee nest under it. These bees attack me >and are quite unfriendly. How can I get rid of them >without ruining the garden soil itself? They're sleeping now >under two feet of snow, but that won't last forever :-) I may be wrong, but I thought bumblebees nested in small groups, or even solitary, so what you have is yellowjackets. Anyway, here is how I got rid of a ground nest in my garden. I waited until after dark, filled a pitcher with boiling water, and poured it down the hole. No more bees. I though I might lose a few dianthus and achillea growing adjacent to the hole, but they seemed not to notice. BTW, the super cold we had this year might take care of a lot of the little nasties, although the snow cover may have preserved them. Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio, zone 5 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!news.bu.edu!att-in!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Tue Feb 22 23:30:18 EST 1994 Article: 26827 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!decwrl!decwrl!news.bu.edu!att-in!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: bonsai Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 03:21:36 GMT Lines: 8 To whomever was asking for seeds for starting bonsai, when you order from Forest Farm, you can note on the order form any plants your are planning to bonsai, and they will try to find you appropriate specimens. I thought that was pretty thoughtful of them. BTW, a great catalog, well worth the $3 they charge for it. Their address is: Forest Farm, 990 Thetherow Rd., Williams, Oregan, 97544. Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!mmf26.berkeley.edu!user Tue Feb 22 23:30:18 EST 1994 Article: 26828 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!mmf26.berkeley.edu!user From: kmatsu@typhoon.berkeley.edu (k.hanu matsuda) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Eucalyptus problem Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 21 Feb 1994 04:06:08 GMT Organization: casa zimbabwe Lines: 5 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: mmf26.berkeley.edu my neighbors have two very big eucalyptus trees which they plan to remove because they are trying to grow a lawn + garden underneath. i would like to save the trees and have a lawn/garden. any suggestions? email please. kmatsu@typhoon.berkeley.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fastrac.llnl.gov!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!news.reed.edu!usenet Tue Feb 22 23:30:19 EST 1994 Article: 26829 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fastrac.llnl.gov!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!news.reed.edu!usenet From: kbezilla@reed.edu (Ken Bezilla) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: soaking seeds for faster germination Date: 21 Feb 1994 04:48:57 GMT Organization: Reed College, Portland, Oregon Lines: 13 Sender: kbezilla@reed.edu (Ken Bezilla) Message-ID: <2k9efp$ldv@scratchy.reed.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: brahma.reed.edu Has anyone had any experience with soaking seeds before planting? I'm interested in hearing about soaking seeds for direct sowing (e.g., corn, beans, peas, spinach, parsley, squash, etc.), since if they can come up faster then they'll have more of a head start on the weeds. I've checked several different books for info., and what little I've found is pretty contradictory. So, anyone out there with any real experience? --Ken Bezilla kbezilla@reed.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!ames!pacbell.com!UB.com!daver!dlb!megatest!sfisher Tue Feb 22 23:30:20 EST 1994 Article: 26830 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!ames!pacbell.com!UB.com!daver!dlb!megatest!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: _Presentable_ Produce Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <1453300462@cdp> <1994Feb16.005456.19069@Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu> Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 02:18:34 GMT Lines: 31 In article <1994Feb16.005456.19069@Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu> rmilner@zia.aoc.nrao.edu (Ruth Milner) writes: >In article sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) writes: >>You don't get earwigs? Boy, it might be worth it to relocate! > >Something last year ate our lettuce when they were just tiny, tiny >seedlings, in some cases not even through the surface of the soil yet. >Sheared 'em right off just beneath the surface. > >I don't think it was cutworm, because while tilling and spading, we only >found two in the whole 20x30 area, and neither of them where we put the >lettuce. I did notice some very tiny beetles in some places; could they >have done it? Whatever it was didn't touch the spinach or peas. > This could tie right into anothr thread. Something that you might have eating very small seedlings are sowbugs, pillbugs, rollypolys, pick your favorite name. I generally leave pillbugs alone because they do eat decaying vegetation mostly, but I have seen them eat newly sprouted veggies each spring. Lettuce is one of their special favorites. I was told diatomaceous earth was a deterrent, but only if it stayed dry. What I do, is to cover the seeds after I observe that they have sprouted until they have grown at least three times the size of my largest observed pillbug. After this, earwigs are my problem. I have other means of dealing with them. Since I plant using the square foot gardening method, finding something to cover a square with is usually not a problem. --Good luck Kim Fisher From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!yeshua.marcam.com!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!md20 Tue Feb 22 23:30:21 EST 1994 Article: 26831 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!yeshua.marcam.com!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!md20 From: md20@crux2.cit.cornell.edu (Molly Diesing) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: rabbits Date: 21 Feb 1994 13:19:36 GMT Organization: Cornell University Lines: 7 Sender: md20@cornell.edu (Verified) Message-ID: <2kacd9INNlbd@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: crux3.cit.cornell.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Taking advantage of the "false spring" to see whether anything survived the extremely cold temperatures of the last month, I found that rabbits (judging from a tell-tale scrap of fur left behind) have eaten my swamp pink! Are there any effective rabbit repellants which I could use to prevent further damage? -Molly From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org !news.dorsai.org !not-for-mail Tue Feb 22 23:30:21 EST 1994 Article: 26832 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org !news.dorsai.org !not-for-mail From: dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Square foot gardening /hoops Date: 21 Feb 1994 09:12:48 -0500 Organization: Dorsai Embassy Lines: 21 Sender: dawyd@news.dorsai.org Message-ID: References: <1994Feb13.150816.22601@es.dupont.com> , Judy Karpen wrote: >since i first started, i've changed only a few things. In particular, i >found that the chicken-wire+plastic cages that he makes for protection etc >were too cumbersome to make, use, and store (talk about torn up fingers!), >so i've since switched to hoops and row covers or plastic (depending on >conditions). Much easier, and much less space intensive since the "hoops" >can be bent flat again for storage when not in use. Otherwise it is a >great book, IMHO, and well worth every penny. I still use his formulae for >fertilizers, something i couldnt find in most other books. Thanks for that idea! What sort of hoops do you use? Plastic or something else? My wife and I used the chicken wire and plastic in our Community Garden and it was a PAIN in every sense, but it helped. Then again, just riding the bus with 20 flat pieces for cages was an experience. If I can avoid that this year it would be WONDERFUL. "The world is indeed comic, but the joke is | David Gurzynski on mankind." H.P. Lovecraft | Brooklyn NY Science does not remove the terror of the Gods | dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!slimer!bruce Tue Feb 22 23:30:22 EST 1994 Article: 26833 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!slimer!bruce From: bruce@igs.com (Bruce DeYoung) Subject: Re: Neophyte Tomato Question Message-ID: <1994Feb21.142646.395@igs.com> Organization: IGS, Inc. References: <1994Feb19.161840.23176@cobra.uni.edu> Date: Mon, 21 Feb 94 14:26:46 GMT Lines: 31 In article <1994Feb19.161840.23176@cobra.uni.edu> klier@cobra.uni.edu writes: >In article , n-hyland@uiuc.edu (Nan Hyland) writes: >> What does determinate and indeterminate mean? I see this a lot in seed >> catalogs. > >Determinate means that the flowers are all formed about once... hence all >the fruits are ripe at the same time. This is the type you want for >a major canning project. > >Indeterminate means the flowers are borne in succession for a long >period of time... so you get a small supply of fruits ripening constantly. >Good choice for tomatoes for the table. > >Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI > Is it not also the case that indeterminate tomatoes are "vining" or "pole" tomatoes and determinate are "bush" tomatoes? Is this simply a symptom of the flowering behavior you describe above, Kay? Just curious, Bruce De Young Boulder, CO PS. Spring must be on its way here! The bulbs have pushed up through the soil and I've started my tomato and pepper seedlings! Roma, Pink Oxheart and Brandywine (both heirloom, late varieties), First Lady and Big Boy hybrids. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!crchh327.bnr.ca!pattyb Tue Feb 22 23:30:23 EST 1994 Article: 26834 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!crchh327.bnr.ca!pattyb From: pattyb@bnr.ca (Patti Brown) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: How To Kill Grass For Flower Bed Date: 21 Feb 1994 09:03:19 -0600 Organization: Bell Northern Research, Richardson, TX Lines: 12 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kaifn$dr1@crchh520.bnr.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: crchh520.bnr.ca Hi - What's the best (read least-back-breaking!) way to kill bermuda grass in order to clear the area for a flower bed? The area is approx. 8 ft. x 8 ft. Please post here. Thanks, Patti From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke Tue Feb 22 23:30:24 EST 1994 Article: 26835 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Anglophiles wanted Message-ID: <1994Feb21.145133.4143@lsl.co.uk> Date: 21 Feb 94 14:51:33 +0100 References: Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 22 In article , rteeter@netcom.com (Robert Teeter) writes: > Hey all you Anglophile gardeners, here's your chance to express an > opinion. We're going to be in England in May. What would you say are > your five favorite gardens in Southern England (say, from Stratford south)? > We know about the Chelsea Flower Show already. If you get anywhere near Cambridge (where I am) on your visit, then visit the University Botanic Garden. It covers about 40 acres/16 hectares, has been there since about 1840 (when it replaced a much smaller garden in the centre of town), so it has some nice old trees. One advantage over larger places is that you can feel that you have seen most of it in a few hours. As regards Chelsea (which I have never been to) - I think that you need tickets in advance, and on some of the days, admission is restricted to members of the Royal Horticultural Society. And I've just thought - it isn't in May either. -- Clarke Brunt (CCB), Principal Software Engineer, Laser-Scan Ltd, Science Park, Milton Rd, CAMBRIDGE, CB4 4FY, England. Tel (+44) 223 420414; Fax 420044, Email CLARKE@LSL.CO.UK (via BRITAIN.EU.NET) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!yuma!kusuma Tue Feb 22 23:30:24 EST 1994 Article: 26836 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!yuma!kusuma From: kusuma@CS.ColoState.EDU (antonius kusuma) Subject: Elk/deer resistant plant Message-ID: <1994Feb21.151832.95565@yuma> Date: 21 Feb 94 15:18:32 GMT Distribution: usa Nntp-Posting-Host: mozart.cs.colostate.edu Organization: Colorado State University -- Computer Science Department Lines: 26 Hi! First of all, my apology if this topic has been discussed in the FAQ, but I looked and looked and couldn't find the answer to my question. A friend of mine just moved to a new house up in the mountains of Colorado where the elks and the deer still roam free. He's thinking about building a small flower garden in his backyard this spring, preferable one that will provide him with cut flowers all season long, but he's afraid the elks and the deer would just make a salad bar out of his garden. Does anybody in the netland have any suggestion as what to plant that those animals won't touch, other than daffodils (too late to plant them anyway) and petunias? I await your suggestions. Thanks! Tony tony@advance.com or kusuma@cs.colostate.edu -- I sought happiness in success, money, love, religion - then I found it in nature, in the simple life. I grow my own food, I make my own clothes - my computers do the rest. Tony Kusuma tonyk@handel.cs.colostate.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!cs.utk.edu!not-for-mail Tue Feb 22 23:30:25 EST 1994 Article: 26837 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!cs.utk.edu!not-for-mail From: booth@cs.utk.edu (Heather Booth) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: help starting seeds indoors Date: 21 Feb 1994 11:59:25 -0500 Organization: CS Department, University of Tennessee, Knoxville Lines: 26 Message-ID: <2kap9dINN2ad@booth.cs.utk.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: booth.cs.utk.edu I would like to start seeds indoors this year. We were hoping to start cool-weather crops indoors to get a head start and also warm-weather crops like hot peppers and tomatoes (in order to raise varieties that are not sold around here as seedlings). We have no sunlight in our house so we planned to hang fluorescent lights above the seed trays in the attic. We planned to use the attic because the house is so small it would be difficult to find room for the seedlings in the house. Unfortunately the attic is not insulated and is pretty cold. I am guessing we need to warm the seed trays somehow. I know some products exist for this, but I don't know exactly what, if anything, to use. The only thing we found at our local hardware store was some cable to attach to pipes to keep them from freezing. Could this be used? If we could keep the seedlings in a warm room in the house would we still need some sort of heating device or could we get away without it? Any advice will be much appreciated. Please email responses. Thanks, Heather Booth booth@cs.utk.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah238 Tue Feb 22 23:30:26 EST 1994 Article: 26838 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah238 From: ah238@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Joseph Zupko) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Spray N grow Date: 21 Feb 1994 17:30:16 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 7 Message-ID: <2kar38$a2n@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: thor.ins.cwru.edu Did anyone ever used this product which claims to increase productivity or is it just another farce for us gardners to buy? If so did you have any success with it? Thankyou -- We can not have a cafeteria type democracy(freedom). From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!ua1ix!ua1vm.ua.edu!BRAY3 Tue Feb 22 23:30:27 EST 1994 Article: 26839 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!ua1ix!ua1vm.ua.edu!BRAY3 From: BRAY3@ua1vm.ua.edu Subject: plants as barriers Message-ID: <16F648FBC.BRAY3@ua1vm.ua.edu> Sender: news@ua1ix.ua.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: ua1vm.ua.edu Organization: The University of Alabama, Tuscaloosa Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 16:13:07 GMT Lines: 4 Help. I'm in need of suggestions for using plants as a barrier between my house and a stree (high volume) and a convience store directly across from my house. I live in AL where azeleas do well, but I don't know which of these or any othe r plants would serve best as a barrier (visual and/or sound barrier). Thanks. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!wujek!kk Tue Feb 22 23:30:27 EST 1994 Article: 26840 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!wujek!kk From: kk@wujek.durham.nc.us (Krzysztof Kozminski) Subject: Screening a highway with plants. Message-ID: Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 18:02:16 GMT Distribution: usa Organization: Relative Software, Inc. Lines: 36 I would like to seek recommendations for plants that could be used to create a noise/visual screen as well as a tresspasser/burglar deterrent along a fairly long highway stretch (0.3 mile) that the city has been kind enought to build right next to the subdivision where I live. I remember this topic discussed some time ago, but unfortunately I did not save any articles. Please respond by e-mail and I'll summarize. Desired properties: - cheap - fast growing & tall - preferably evergren - thorny & dense - vigorously spreading The site is at the bottom of a downhill slope. It has a southern exposure (the site, not the slope). It is fairly wet during winter. There is a creek running alongside most of the planting area. Zone 7b. Some ideas include: - honey locust - blackberries, wild roses, or similar brambly stuff, interplanted with poison ivy - tall bamboo for screening - Leyland cypress (isn't there some problem with those - I remember hearing somewhere about some disease that is attacking them...) Any general or specific recommendations of plants and/or their sources will be most appreciated. KK -- Kris Kozminski (kk@wujek.durham.nc.us) "Limit congressmen to two terms. One in office. One in jail." From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!gopher.cs.uofs.edu!jaguar.uofs.edu!wallacec1 Tue Feb 22 23:30:28 EST 1994 Article: 26841 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!netnews.upenn.edu!gopher.cs.uofs.edu!jaguar.uofs.edu!wallacec1 From: wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: re: how to kill grass for a flower bed Date: 21 Feb 94 13:30:32 EST Organization: University of Scranton Lines: 15 Message-ID: <1994Feb21.133032.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: jaguar.cs.uofs.edu One of the easiest ways I know to kill grass for a flower bed is to spread a lot of thick sheets of newspaper over it, then cover the newspaper with mulch. Then add a layer of soil. Of course, we did this in the fall, so the paper, mulch, etc., had all winter to decompose. We will be scattering seeds as soon as it's warm enough. We also killed grass by accident two years ago. I had bulbs naturalized in the side lawn, and my husband decided to bury them under a thick layer of shredded leaves. He kind of overdid it--the crocuses were albinos when I finally found them. But when I raked up the leaves, we had nice, rich soil and no grass. Hope these ideas help, but if you're looking for something to begin this season, good luck. You might consider a raised bed. Carol Wallace From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!guvax.acc.georgetown.edu!watermas Tue Feb 22 23:30:29 EST 1994 Article: 26842 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!guvax.acc.georgetown.edu!watermas From: watermas@guvax.acc.georgetown.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Advice Needed: When to Move a Tree Message-ID: <1994Feb21.131024.7769@guvax> Date: 21 Feb 94 13:10:24 -0500 References: <1994Feb18.183103.10442@philabs.philips.com> Distribution: world Organization: Georgetown University Lines: 33 In article <1994Feb18.183103.10442@philabs.philips.com>, kar@philabs.philips.com (Karen A Rubistello) writes: > > My husband and I have found that we have a problem with our foundation > and need to dig down to fix the situation. This means that we have > to move a 7' deciduous azalea from the front of our house. I really > dont want to harm this tree its really beautiful when it blooms in the > spring so....can someone please tell me if i can move it before it > blossoms? We wont be able to wait till fall when the tree is dormant > again (i wish i knew we had this problem in october!). > > Thanks for all your help > karen I have moved 8' rhododendrons in March and they still managed to flower OK. I think your chances for success depend on how large a root ball you can keep on the plant and how quickly it can be replanted. First dig the hole in the spot where it will be moved to, amending the soil as neededhen digging up the azelea have a large piece of burlap ready to slip under the root ball. This is especially neccesary if you have loose soil in which case the root ball can fall apart before you have a chance to wrap the burlap. If this does happen and the roots become exposed don't panic! Plant it immediately in the hole already prepared and really soak it in. Make sure you've got it planted at the same depth it had been before. Good luck. Bob Stewart From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!fig.lib.utexas.edu!user Tue Feb 22 23:30:30 EST 1994 Article: 26843 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!fig.lib.utexas.edu!user From: Steve.Ploof@utxvm.cc.utexas.edu (Steven Ploof) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Screening a highway with plants. Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 21 Feb 1994 18:56:12 GMT Organization: University of Texas, General Libraries Lines: 21 Distribution: usa Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: fig.lib.utexas.edu In article , kk@wujek.durham.nc.us (Krzysztof Kozminski) wrote: > I would like to seek recommendations for plants that could be used to > create a noise/visual screen as well as a tresspasser/burglar deterrent > along a fairly long highway stretch (0.3 mile) that the city has been > kind enought to build right next to the subdivision where I live. I > remember this topic discussed some time ago, but unfortunately I did > not save any articles. Please respond by e-mail and I'll summarize. > Kris, An Osage Orange tree ( Bois D'arc ?) would work well. Orignally used as property border fencing it makes a great hedge. new growth has wicked thorns. Grows fast, propogates well. Will grow to tree stature if not cut back. -- Steven Ploof From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!wujek!kk Tue Feb 22 23:30:31 EST 1994 Article: 26844 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!wujek!kk From: kk@wujek.durham.nc.us (Krzysztof Kozminski) Subject: Re: Mountain phenology report Message-ID: Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 20:13:58 GMT Distribution: usa References: <1994Feb17.194612.9966@brtph560.bnr.ca> Organization: Relative Software, Inc. Lines: 36 In <1994Feb17.194612.9966@brtph560.bnr.ca> (James Yourch P265) writes: >As a side note, I wanted to mention the results of the deep freeze we >had back in January ( January 19: low 0 F, high 16 F ). Below are plants >on my property that I don't consider particularly hardy and the information >may be useful to someone who is considering using any of these species in their >garden. > > Osmanthus fortunei: Minor damage to foliage. Mine had no damage, but a couple of other species suffered: Loropetalum chinense - minor foliage damage. Distylium racemosum: severe damage to foliage - ~80% turned brown. Cinnamomum japonicum - very severe damage to foliage & wood, bark flaking off, base of the main stem appears alive. Cinnamomum chekiangensis - apparently dead - same problems as C.japonicum, except bark flakes off everywhere. Cornus kousa angustifolia - severe foliage damage. Hopefully, the rest should survive (rated hardiness to zone 6). And more blooms to report: Daffodils sp. - started blooming Feb. 19 Helleborus orientalis - started blooming Feb. 19 Abeliophyllum distichum (white forsythia) - started blooming Feb 21. KK -- Kris Kozminski (kk@wujek.durham.nc.us) "Limit congressmen to two terms. One in office. One in jail." From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!apple.com!ntg!dplatt Tue Feb 22 23:30:32 EST 1994 Article: 26845 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!apple.com!ntg!dplatt From: dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt) Subject: Re: Neophyte tomato question Message-ID: <1994Feb21.203604.8011@ntg.com> Sender: news@ntg.com (USENET news account) Organization: New Technologies Group, Inc. Palo Alto CA References: <1994Feb20.114147.23220@cobra.uni.edu> Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 20:36:04 GMT Lines: 25 > Truth of the matter is, both >are correct -- but both focus on different aspects of the same "problem": >there are some tomatoes that continue to grow and bloom throughout the season, >and others that stop growing and putting out new flowers at some point. >These sorts of characters are probably influenced by a single gene or >gene cluster... so they really are aspects of the same genetic information. I believe you're correct, Kay. In fact, my somewhat-fuzzy recollection is that all of the older cultivars, and the wild-form varieties which were originally domesticated, were indeterminate. The determinate character was first identified in a single batch of tomatoes (maybe in a single plant?) sometime early in this century (I have a vague memory of reading "Florida" and "prior to 1920" but this may be in error). All determinate/bush tomatoes derive their determinate character from a breeding line which reaches back to this original stock. If my memory is correct on this issue, it would certainly suggest that one gene is involved, and that a single mutation was sufficient to switch its bearer from indeterminate to determinate. -- Dave Platt dplatt@ntg.com ..or.. ...netcomsv!ntg!dplatt USNAIL: The 3DO Company, NTG division 2470 Embarcardero Way Palo Alto CA 94303 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uhog.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!ai-lab!szwanger Tue Feb 22 23:30:33 EST 1994 Article: 26846 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uhog.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!ai-lab!szwanger From: szwanger@gnu.ai.mit.edu (Steven Zwanger) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Question on bulbs, post-flowering Date: 21 Feb 1994 19:31:51 GMT Organization: Free Software Foundation / Cambridge, MA USA Lines: 9 Message-ID: <2kb277INN3tr@life.ai.mit.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: spiff.gnu.ai.mit.edu Keywords: Amaryllis I have an amaryllis whose flowers dried up a couple of weeks ago. Now, the bases of where 2 of the flowers used to be have swelled up; they have the shape of garlic bulbs, but they're green. Can anyone tell me what they are and how I should deal with them? I'm not really sure what to do with them. Thanks! Steve From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!hobbes!earth.armory.com!jon Tue Feb 22 23:30:34 EST 1994 Article: 26847 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!hobbes!earth.armory.com!jon From: jon@armory.com (Jon Shemitz) Subject: Re: Coffee Filters in compost pile? Organization: Midnight Beach Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 19:00:48 GMT Message-ID: References: Sender: news@armory.com (Usenet News) Nntp-Posting-Host: deeptht.armory.com Lines: 16 Terry Bermes asks: > Recently I've started collecting cans of coffee grounds and > filters from work and dumping them in my compost pile. The > problem, I think, is that it seems to be much more filter than > coffee. Do any of you more experienced composters have any > feelings or knowledge one way or another regarding this? When I composted coffee filters (I use an espresso machine these days) they always disappeared quickly. They never seemed to last more than one turn of the pile. Judging from what I've read of "compost chemistry", I'd imagine that so long as you balance the high-carbon filters with high-nitrogen weeds and kitchen scraps, you should be fine. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!REYNOLSE@esvx17.es.dupont.com Tue Feb 22 23:30:34 EST 1994 Article: 26848 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!esds01.es.dupont.com!REYNOLSE@esvx17.es.dupont.com From: reynolse@esvx17.es.dupont.com Subject: Last frost - Delaware Message-ID: <1994Feb21.180145.3614@es.dupont.com> Sender: news@es.dupont.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: esvx17.es.dupont.com Reply-To: reynolse@esvx17.es.dupont.com Organization: DuPont (Opinions are those of the writer only) Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 18:01:45 GMT Lines: 9 I was commentting to some coworkers about my plans for planting my vegtable garden. Their plans seemed to be a month later than mine. Example: I was planning to put in my tomato plants April 15 because the last frost is supposed to be that week. Their plans are for May 15. When is the last frost for the Wilmington, Delaware area? Can the plants be put out earlier if I warm the ground with plastic? If yes how much? Regards, Steve From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph844!yourch Tue Feb 22 23:30:35 EST 1994 Article: 26849 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph844!yourch From: yourch@brtph844.bnr.ca (James Yourch P265) Subject: Re: Screening a highway with plants. Sender: news@brtph560.bnr.ca (Usenet News) Message-ID: <1994Feb21.210117.25748@brtph560.bnr.ca> Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 21:01:17 GMT Distribution: usa Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP Lines: 186 Krzysztof Kozminski writes: >I would like to seek recommendations for plants that could be used to >create a noise/visual screen as well as a tresspasser/burglar deterrent >along a fairly long highway stretch (0.3 mile) that the city has been >kind enought to build right next to the subdivision where I live. I >remember this topic discussed some time ago, but unfortunately I did >not save any articles. Please respond by e-mail and I'll summarize. >Desired properties: > - cheap > - fast growing & tall > - preferably evergren > - thorny & dense > - vigorously spreading Eleagnus pungens meets all of the qualifications and has fragrant flowers in autumn and berries for birds in spring. Somewhat wild and wooly if left unpruned. Grows like a weed in any kind of soil. Ilex X 'Nellie Stevens' meets all of the qualifications and has showy red berries for birds in fall/winter. Slower growing than Eleagnus, but ultimately larger and more refined. The following is a copy of a post I saved last year that you may find useful: There are two known pest problems associated with leyland cypress. One is a canker that is spreading through the south east. I am not familiar with control measures but your local extension agent should be able to help you if you feel that you have this disease. The major pest is bag worm, which feeds on the foliage of several conifers in the spring. The main reason for these problems is over planting of the leyland cypress. Yes - it does grow fast and makes a good, evergreen screen, but with over planting and lack of diversity in the landscape, insects and diseases will attack. Have you thought about some other plants? I have listed some screen alternatives that may be of interest. The stared plants may be easier to find. This is a list from a slide lecture given by Dr. J.C. Raulston. To find out more about The NCSU Arboretum and its mission, write to the above address and you can join the Friends of The NCSU Arboretum. The annual dues range from $ 25.00 up. " LIFE AFTER PHOTINIA - ORNAMENTAL SCREENING ALTERNATIVES" Dr. J. C. Raulston - The NCSU Arboretum, Dept. of Hort. Science, Box 7609, NCSU, Raleigh, NC 27695-7609 01. The NCSU Arboretum - founded in 1977; 8 acres; 6,000 different woody plants - hunting improved plants for landscape. 02. Redtip photinia answers needs for big, cheap screening plant - getting more and more disease. 03. Leyland cypress the newest big, green blob - becoming widely overplanted to a monoculture status. 04. Future leyland cypress problems - bagworms and cankers; need diversity in choices. 05. Experiments in topping to shorten plants for easier spraying - at NCSU Arboretum. 06. Topped leylands - branches turn up and acquire normal appearance. 07. Leyland cypress as clipped hedge - can be kept any size but expensive over time. !08. Thuja occidentalis 'Emerald' ('Smargard') - excellent form; slower. 09. Juniperus chinensis 'Spartan' ('Spearmint' - Monrovia) - in commercial trade; tight form; about 2/3 growth rate of leylands. !10. Cryptomeria japonica 'Yoshino' - excellent for south and coming into trade; 'Benjamin Franklin' good for salt spray. 11. Juniperus chinensis 'Mas' - old plantings at National Arboretum - once in trade & excellent; needs reintroduction. 12. Thuja plicata - from northwest U. S. - excellent in trials at NCSU - need greater use; fast and big. 13. Thuja plicata hedge on campus at UBC, British Columbia. 14. Juniperus virginiana - tough and needs greater use - seedling variability a problem in uniform plantings. 15. Juniperus virginiana 'Canaerti' - clonal selections have uniformity and great potential. !16. Juniperus virginiana - older planting in eastern N. C. !17. Cedrus deodara - have potential for either large screens - or if sheared smaller ones. 18. Cedrus deodara hedge of clipped plants. 19. Cedrus deodara - fine cultivar in New Bern (Mr. Edingloh at New Bern Nursery) needs production and use. !20. Cunninghamia lanceolata 'Chason's Gift' - seedlings too variable - new cultivar from Johnson's Nursery in Willard, NC. 21. Cunninghamia lanceolata 'Chason's Gift' - Johnson nursery cultivar grows off normally from cuttings - important and rare. 22. Juniperus scopulorum - Western Red Cedars - many imported and sold - but disease susceptible in east. 23. Juniperus deppeana 'McFetters' - bright blue - outstanding but rare and slow in production. 24. Cupressus bakeri - from Oregon - well adapted and worthy of trial. !25. Ilex X 'Nellie Stevens' - one of best hollies - available, fast, no problems - gets big with time - rejuvenation techniques. 26. NCSU Arboretum - cutting 24' hedge to 4'. 27. NCSU Arboretum - root pruning to slow competition. 28. NCSU Arboretum - vertical herbicide barrrier to slow roots. 29. NCSU Arboretum - a year later with filled in hedge at 6' - can maintain by pruning. Hollies rejuvenate easily. 30. Ilex X 'Carolina Sentinel' - new NCSU Arboretum hedging cultivar - fast; fruits well - coming in trade. !31. Ilex X 'Dr. Kassab' - dark green foliage; excellent shape. 32. Ilex cornuta 'Fineline' - excellent new cultivar for hedging from Magnolia Nurseries, Mobile, AL 33. Ilex X attenuata 'Sunny Foster' - golden foliage (only on south sunny side) adds variety to hedge appearance. !34. Myrica cerifera - widely used - as shrub, small tree, or clipped hedges - outstanding. !35. Magnolia grandiflora - in Europe widely sheared for hedges - much potential here. !36. Magnolia grandiflora 'Little Gem' - with emergence of cultivar availability in south - good hedging possibilities. 37. Magnolia grandiflora 'Little Gem' - planted as future hedge. 38. Magnolia grandiflora 'Little Gem' - long flowering season - 6-7 months. 39. Buxus sempervirens 'Pyramidata' or 'Fastigata' - tight columnar and fast enought to be commercial. !40. Illicium parviflora - being substituted for Photinia more and more; fast and tough. 41. Prunus caroliniana - fast and tough - rarely seen sheared. !42. Viburnum awabuki 'Chindo' - new arboretum introduction - glossy foliage and red fruit. 43. Leucothoe populifolia - excellent for informal loose hedging. 44. Berberis julianae - thorny and protective - evergreen, bright yellow flowers in early spring - grows to 6-8'. !45. Viburnum tinus - evergreen, showy winter buds, white spring flowers. 46. Ternstroemia gymnanthera (Cleyera) - quality evergreen - showy autumn fruit. !47. Camellia sasanqua - ligustrum with flowers - why not used more? 48. Bamboos - Black bamboo has handsome stems - concern with spread - mowing can control in grass. 49. Quercus phillyreoides 'Emerald Sentinel' - NCSU Arboretum introduction; fast, evergreen, cutting grown clone. 50/51. Quercus robur - though deciduous - holds foliage through winter. 52. Ulmus carpinifolia var. cornubiensis - excellent potential - though deciduous so dense it is good barrier in winter 53. Ulmus carpinifolia var. cornubiensis - fastigate elm at NCSU. 54. Fagus grandiflora - juvenile foliage on seedlings shows winter persistence. 55. Lindera glauca and umbellata - showy bronze winter foliage - could be sheared. 56. Vines offer much potential - English ivy on chain link fence can be 57. Hedera nepalensis - large foliage and fast growing. 58. Hedera colchica 'Dentata Variegata' - white variegated and large leaves. 59. Lonicera sempervirens - native coral honeysuckle with red flowers and evergreen foliage - also yellow flowered selection. !60. Gelsemium rankanii - fall and spring flowering - no fragrance so plant some sempervirens with it. 61. Gelsemium sempervirens 'Pale Yellow Form' - new introduction from Woodlanders Nursery. 62/63. Bignonia capreolata 'Tangerine Beauty' - new NCSU Arboretum release - native evergreen vine. 64. Cross vine on fence at NCSU. 65. Kadsura japonica - several types with variegated foliage - evergreen. 66. Stauntonia hexaphylla - large, coarse evergreen vine of potential. 67. Clematis cirrhosa - winter-flowering evergreen vine. 68. Clematis armandi - white fragrant flowers in spring. 69. Mix vines for greater potential - spread seasons and add evergreen to deciduous. Clematis and Parthenocissus shown. 70. Campsis grandiflora - Chinese trumpetvine new introduction and spectacular. 71. Wisteria frutescens 'Alba' - native wisteria blooms later and adds season - mix native and oriental types. 72. Tightly fastigate seem good for potential screening but rarely work 73. Consider mixed species and types - conifers at White Flower Farm. 74. Mosaic hedge of conifers at White Flower Farm. 75. Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Crippsii' and C. pisifera 'Filifera Aurea' - golden hedge in N. Y. 76-78. Screening in woodland difficult with competition and shade. 79. Leyland cypress in shade and with roots as compared to open and sunny. 80. A world of unusual opportunities for imaginative screening . Cedrus atlantica 'Glauca Pendula' on frame. In selecting plants for use - a diverse range of types is important for long-range safety - use old standards + some new. Look to the new releases and try some - if markets don't buy; growers stop producing. Watch for potential problems - insects, disease. Standard mass-produced plants are important, known and used - but avoid overuse as easy cliche. I know you wanted e-mail, but I can only post. Sorry! Jay From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!mixcom.com!Gary.Rebholz Tue Feb 22 23:30:36 EST 1994 Article: 26850 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!mixcom.com!Gary.Rebholz From: Gary Rebholz Subject: English gardens Message-ID: <1994Feb21.211412.21504@mixcom.mixcom.com> Keywords: Anglophiles Sender: vvyyvv@mixcom.mixcom.com (Gary Rebholz) Organization: Milwaukee Internet Xchange BBS, Milwaukee, WI (414) 241-5469 References: Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 21:14:12 GMT Lines: 19 In rteeter@netcom.com (Robert Teeter) writes: >Hey all you Anglophile gardeners, here's your chance to express an >opinion. We're going to be in England in May. What would you say are >your five favorite gardens in Southern England (say, from Stratford south)? >We know about the Chelsea Flower Show already. The Chelsea Physic (it's been a number of years - the name is approximate) garden - an ancient, little, walled garden dating back at least to the 15th century. Featuring herbs, medicinal plants, it's hours are sporadic - say one or two days during the week. It's in Chelsea and in the guide books. There's my 2 cents! -- ........................................................................ Gary.Rebholz@mixcom.mix Milwaukee, WI ........................................................................ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Tue Feb 22 23:30:37 EST 1994 Article: 26851 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: Neophyte tomato question References: <1994Feb20.114147.23220@cobra.uni.edu> <2k8vhv$6tq@apollo.it.luc.edu> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 22 Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 00:14:08 +0000 Message-ID: <761876048snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article <2k8vhv$6tq@apollo.it.luc.edu> jmcnult@orion.it.luc.edu "John A. Mcnulty" writes: > Kay, perhaps because of your position you are too diplomatic to > point this out (or maybe I'm just wrong!) but it is my understanding > that the determinate tomatoes were developed for the produce industry > so mechanical harvesters could sweep through at one time and harvest > an entire crop. Cynical, negative person I am, I assume those are > varieties where *taste* is low on the value scale. > Pending Kay's response, I hope you won't mind if I chip in here and say that it isn't, I'm afraid, anything like as simple as that. Some of the determinate 'bush' types have excellent flavour. I won't quote varieties here as the difference between those grown in the U.K. as opposed to the U.S.A is considerable, but I can assure you that determinates include some very popular and well flavoured ones. Hope that helps :-) -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cts.eiu.edu!csjan Tue Feb 22 23:30:37 EST 1994 Article: 26852 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.cts.eiu.edu!csjan From: csjan@news.cts.eiu.edu (Jan B. Faires) Subject: Under Trees... Message-ID: Organization: Eastern Illinois University Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 23:14:54 GMT Lines: 11 We just moved to a new subdivision. The lawn is lumpy, and there's moss growing 'midst the sparse grass under the shade trees (maples, I think). It's a corner lot. Any suggestions for what to plant under the trees? I'd consider ground cover or shrubs or whatever. Thanks. Jan B. -- Jan Faires, EIU, Charleston, IL 61920 csjan@ux1.cts.eiu.edu The community is ALL of us! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Tue Feb 22 23:30:38 EST 1994 Article: 26853 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: English gardens Distribution: usa References: <1994Feb21.211412.21504@mixcom.mixcom.com> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 46 Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 00:03:27 +0000 Message-ID: <761875407snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article <1994Feb21.211412.21504@mixcom.mixcom.com> Gary.Rebholz@mixcom.mixcom.com "Gary Rebholz" writes: > The Chelsea Physic (it's been a number of years - the name is approximate) > garden - an ancient, little, walled garden dating back at least to the 15th > century. Featuring herbs, medicinal plants, it's hours are sporadic - say > one or two days during the week. It's in Chelsea and in the guide books. > > There's my 2 cents! > > -- > ......................................................................... > Gary.Rebholz@mixcom.mix > Milwaukee, WI > ......................................................................... Thanks Gary (good name you have there! :) ) As a 'friend' of the Chelsea Physic Garden, here in London, it's always nice to know that this wonderful garden is appreciated. The garden was actually founded by the Society of Apothecaries of London in 1673. Pisa University had opened the first physic garden in Europe in 1543, and Oxford beat Chelsea to it by opening theirs in 1621. Visitors to the CPG are always welcome, but it is only open to the public on Wednesdays and Sundays, between 2 and 5pm. Personally speaking, I wouldn't want anyone to visit in the hope of seeing wonderful landscaping or tremendous beauty in the obvious sense. The real beauty of the CPG, to me, lies in it's deep layers of history and the role it has played down the centuries. At times it is *not* particularly visually beautiful - plants are left to run to seed because seed is what is required for exchange programmes, and financial constraints mean that the garden can look a little scruffy at times. For all that, set close to the very heart of London, the CPG has an immense, timeless tranquility and can offer many hours (years in many cases) of fascination for scientific, historical and spiritual reasons. For anyone planning to visit, the CPG is situated very close to the Royal Hospital, Chelsea at 66, Royal Hospital Rd., London SW3 4HS. The telephone number is 071-352-5646. I hope the above helps. -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!jyoungmac.sps.mot.com!jerry_l_young Tue Feb 22 23:30:39 EST 1994 Article: 26854 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!jyoungmac.sps.mot.com!jerry_l_young From: Jerry Young Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mellingers? Date: 21 Feb 1994 19:44:06 GMT Organization: Motorola RISC Apps Lines: 52 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kb2u6INN74p@talos4.sps.mot.com> References: <1343@smith.CHI.IL.US> NNTP-Posting-Host: jyoungmac.sps.mot.com X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d24 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Mon, 21 Feb 94 13:44:18 GMT In article <1343@smith.CHI.IL.US> L.A.Z. Smith, leah@smith.CHI.IL.US writes: > >In article <2itkmlINN4k0@talos4.sps.mot.com> >(Jerry Young) writes: >>I had bad luck with them. I made an order in in mid-winter and it didn't >>arrive until April. > >Well, Mellingers is in Ohio, so they are not going to be able to ship much >nursery stock in the winter. I'm pretty sure their catalog does mention >their earliest shipping times. Other companies don't seem to have this proble, and that was certainly not the case here. In fact, I had made a fairly large order, and they shipped most of the smaller plants I ordered earlier in the spring but the trees I mentioned came much later. >The catalog also mentions that the stock is bare-root. They offer plants in various configurations -- which is a strange aspect of their catalog. I did not order from them as bare root -- Mellinger's may not have intended them to be bare-root, but there was only a small amount of soil around the roots (actually it was more like it was in the same bag as the roots). For all intents and purposes these little roots were naked. I have ordered plants marked as 2-gallon, 1-gallon, etc., from other people who in fact didn't send me a little plastic pot -- and that is fine because the people that packed them knew what they were doing.. But these poor guys didn't stand a chance. >Probably you >should have had them ship the replacement tree for fall planting. In >general, though, it's a good idea to order nursery stock (trees, large >shrubs, etc.) from companies in your zone. I understand the advantages of ordering within your zone, but I order plenty of stuff from all around the country, including plenty of bare-root stuff. Other companies manage to ship it to me in the winter, which is when you plant bare-root stock -- certainly not a thing to try in the fall here in Texas. In short -- I buy a lot of plants through the mail. I have never had such a bad experience as I have had with Mellingers. Now I am only one person, but they seemed to find multiple ways to make my experience with them an unpleasant one. >I do know others who've had >mixed success with trees from Mellinger's, mostly having to do with >shipping problems. Enough said. Jerry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ncrgw2.ncr.com!ncrhub2!whq2-top!KNR!Kristin.Ross Tue Feb 22 23:30:39 EST 1994 Article: 26855 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!ncrgw2.ncr.com!ncrhub2!whq2-top!KNR!Kristin.Ross From: Kristin.Ross@DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Kristin Ross) Subject: Ficus Tree : Can I replant cuttings? Message-ID: Lines: 18 Sender: news@whq2-top.DaytonOH.NCR.COM (0000-Admin(0000)) Organization: NCR Worldwide Customer Services X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 21:05:09 GMT I have a seven foot indoor ficus tree (not sure exactly what kind) that I pruned this weekend. I have three or four rather large cuttings as a result, and I'd like to start some new plants if possible. Right now the cuttings are in water. If I leave them in the water, will they grow roots? Can I just plant them in soil the way they are? (Try to curb your laughter, I know nothing about plants!) Please let me know if you are aware of a way to make new little trees from these cuttings. Thanks for your help! P.S. My rabbit got at my mother-in-law's tongue this weekend, so I cut off the damaged stalk above the toothmarks and planted it in some soggy soil. Will it grow, or is there a way I can make it grow into a new plant? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink.bc.ca!a8331 Tue Feb 22 23:30:40 EST 1994 Article: 26856 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink.bc.ca!a8331 From: Moira_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Moira Carlson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Anglophiles Wanted Date: 22 Feb 94 01:21:22 GMT Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Lines: 19 Distribution: world Message-ID: <39166@mindlink.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: mindlink.bc.ca In response to Robert Teeter: rteeter@netcom.com who writes: >Hey all you Anglophile gardeners, here's your chance to express an >opinion. We're going to be in England in May. What would you say are >your five favorite gardens in Southern England (say, from Stratford south)? >We know about the Chelsea Flower Show already. Here is another vote for Kew Gardens. Kew is particularly handy if you are staying in or close to London because it is on the tube line (Richmond I seem to remember). The gate is within very easy walking distance. The most fun is to make a day of it and come back by the river. Kew is right on the Thames and the boats go (or they did when I was there) from the dock at Kew down to the area near the Parliament buildings. -Have fun. Moira From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!157ochs Tue Feb 22 23:30:41 EST 1994 Article: 26857 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!157ochs From: 157ochs@gw.wmich.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Weed under snow survives winter Message-ID: <1994Feb21.201153.15085@wmichgw> Date: 21 Feb 94 20:11:53 EST Organization: Western Michigan University Lines: 11 The recent warm spell has melted the majority of our snowcover, which was originally deposited just before Christmas, after a mild autumn. I noticed some kind of weed(Groundsel, I think,) with flowers starting to open. Apparently this weed had survived the frosty nights before Christmas, and was spared from the subzero temperatures by a heavy snow cover. It was exposed over the weekend when the snow melted. This week, it will have to face the cold temperatures without the heavy snowcover and will probably die. Some snow is expected this week, but I'm not sure how much. Jeff Ochs From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!157ochs Tue Feb 22 23:30:42 EST 1994 Article: 26858 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!157ochs From: 157ochs@gw.wmich.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Signs of spring Message-ID: <1994Feb21.200749.15084@wmichgw> Date: 21 Feb 94 20:07:49 EST References: <1994Feb14.231456.11664@nicmad.uucp> <1994Feb17.191050.14976@gw.wmich.edu> Distribution: na Organization: Western Michigan University Lines: 20 In article , dvw@cbnewsh.cb.att.com (diane.v.wilkerson) writes: > In article <1994Feb17.191050.14976@gw.wmich.edu> 157ochs@gw.wmich.edu writes: >>Nothing is coming out here yet, except Chickweeds, which are starting to bloom. >>Vernal Witchhazels are will probably bloom here in a couple of days, and >>the pussy willows will probably also start coming out within the next week. >>It got upto 50 degrees here in Kalamazoo today, and is supposed to get in >>the 50's tomorrow. >> >>Jeff > > Bleah! Today it struggled to get above 35 degrees here today. Friday and Saturday, it got upto 65 degrees here, and the Vernal Witchhazels started blooming here on campus. Cardinals and Finches started singing this week, and blackbirds are returning. This week, it probably won't get above 26 degrees, and more of that cursed white stuff is expected!!!! Tulips and Daffodils are starting to sprout, as well as Dandelions. Jeff From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Tue Feb 22 23:30:42 EST 1994 Article: 26859 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, ADN Computer Center Date: Mon, 21 Feb 1994 17:29:25 CST From: Message-ID: <94052.172925U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: re: Save the American Chestnut Trees Distribution: usa References: <2k8ve5$o1i@crl2.crl.com> Lines: 26 In article <2k8ve5$o1i@crl2.crl.com>, hempster@crl.com (Alan Silverman) says: > >There was a feature article regarding chestnut trees in: > Backwoods Home Magazine > Jan/Feb 93 >The article was titled "The forest king is returning". >This issue talks about the blight and what is being done about it. > >There is an effort to find trees that have survived the blight >to see about propogating those particular trees. They direct the >effort to: > > American Chestnut Foundation > P.O.Box 6057 > Morgantown, West Virginia 26506 I just wanted to note that you could send your own contributions directly to ACF instead of going through an intermediary. This of course is up to you. The people who run the research program (& ACF coordinates their work with other groups, such as the Nature Conservancy) seem fairly single-minded in their interest in preserving (re- establishing) the American chestnut. They don't seem to go in for the arbitrary ideological political machinations other groups do. Some people don't like this aspect, I find it essential. Hans From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!ixeab2!gould Tue Feb 22 23:30:43 EST 1994 Article: 26860 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!ixeab2!gould From: gould@ixeab2 (Dana C. Gould) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Rear Tine Tiller: To Buy Or Not To Buy Date: 22 Feb 1994 02:44:50 GMT Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA Lines: 26 Message-ID: <2kbrj2$neq@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: ixeab2.larc.nasa.gov X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] Hi folks, I've been toying around with the idea of getting a rear tine tiller. My problem, cost of course. I have a front tine for my 3000 sq. ft. garden that I've used for the past several years. I'm thinking of enlarging the gardern to about 5000 sq. ft. and think that the rear tine tiller might be a good purchase at this point. I've used my neighbor's Troy and loved it. So, for my questions. I know Troy's are the best, but I can't see spending $1000 for a tiller and I can't seem to find a used one. The home stores (HQ, Builder's Square, Lowes) have similar tillers for about $500, and I was wondering if anyone out there has any experience with them. The one thing I notice that is different is that the Troy's have tines that rotate in the forward direction just like my front tine tiller, but the others for the most part have counter rotating tines. Which is better, forward rotating tines or backwards rotating tines and why? One model, an MTD, lets you choose forward or backwards rotating tines, but it costs $150 more than the purely backward rotating tine machine. Is this option worth $150? Finally, are there any other things I should consider? Any experiences, good or bad will be appreciated. Thanks Dana Gould d.c.gould@larc.nasa.gov From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!olivea!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!nic.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!jkenney Tue Feb 22 23:30:44 EST 1994 Article: 26861 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!olivea!grapevine.lcs.mit.edu!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!nic.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!jkenney From: jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) Subject: vermiculture Message-ID: <1994Feb22.022710.27757@k12.ucs.umass.edu> Sender: usenet@k12.ucs.umass.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: k12.ucs.umass.edu Reply-To: jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) Organization: University of Massachusetts/Amherst K-12 Information System Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 02:27:10 GMT Lines: 10 I have several students interested in investigating vermiculture. I have ordered the book "Worms Eat My Garbage", but would like some advise. Where can I purchase red worms for this purpose? Would they have them at a bait shop? Thanks for any help......Jeff -- Jeff Kenney Great Falls Middle School/Science "A boy's will is the wind's will, and the thoughts of youth are long, long thoughts". From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!ichthous!mcgrew Tue Feb 22 23:30:45 EST 1994 Article: 26862 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!koriel!news2me.EBay.Sun.COM!exodus.Eng.Sun.COM!ichthous!mcgrew From: mcgrew@ichthous.Eng.Sun.COM (Darin McGrew) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Square foot gardening /hoops Date: 22 Feb 1994 03:05:53 GMT Organization: Sun Lines: 30 Message-ID: References: <1994Feb13.150816.22601@es.dupont.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ichthous In article , Judy Karpen wrote: >>since i first started, i've changed only a few things. In particular, i >>found that the chicken-wire+plastic cages that he makes for protection etc >>were too cumbersome to make, use, and store (talk about torn up fingers!), >>so i've since switched to hoops and row covers or plastic (depending on >>conditions). In article dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org writes: >Thanks for that idea! What sort of hoops do you use? Plastic or >something else? Following the suggestion of Jeff Ball (_Jeff Ball's 60-Minute Vegetable Garden_), my wife and I are using polyethylene pipe for the ribs/hoops supporting the plastic or row covers in our garden. Polyethylene pipe is the flexible, black, plastic pipe that is typically used for irrigation applications. It is sometimes (mistakenly) called "flexible PVC pipe". Mailorder gardening catalogs also have "garden clips", which are flexible plastic clips that are designed slip over 3/4 inch polyethylene pipe. They are used to hold plastic or whatever else to the polyethylene pipe ribs/hoops by trapping the covering material between the clip and the polyethylene pipe. I've also seen hoops sold in mailorder catalogs that are made of some sort of heavy wire. Darin.McGrew@Eng.Sun.COM The LORD said to him, "Who gave man his mouth? Who makes him deaf or dumb? Who gives him sight Soli Deo Gloria! or makes him blind? Is it not I, the LORD?" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam Tue Feb 22 23:30:46 EST 1994 Article: 26863 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!athena.mit.edu!stngiam From: stngiam@athena.mit.edu (Shih-Tung Ngiam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Raspberries Date: 22 Feb 1994 03:38:04 GMT Organization: Massachusetts Institute of Technology Lines: 9 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: carbonara.mit.edu What variety of raspberry should I grow if I want to get a crop the first season? I'm growing in a community garden and we are supposed to clear all our plants every Fall, so it's no point for me to grow berries if they only fruit the second and subsequent years. Boston is in Zone 6; Last frost Apr 21; First frost Oct 15 (supposedly!) Thanks in advance! Shih Tung From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Tue Feb 22 23:30:47 EST 1994 Article: 26864 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!udel!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: Lavonne Stein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mulching roses Date: Mon, 21 Feb 94 23:26:17 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 11 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: bos3a.delphi.com X-To: Lee Paulsen Lee Paulsen writes: >I'm a novice gardener with a small patio garden. I have grown fond of >roses over the last couple of years. I am wondering if I should be any sort of mulch is beneficial, leaves, woodchips being among the best. i recommend leaves actually because they break down and add nutrients to the soil as they decompose. wood chips break down to but more slowly and they do not provide so much good stuff. if you use leaves, remember to also use fertilizer a bit more often. try some tree roses for that patio garden, space saving and lovely. and you have the nice weather for them. z From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly Tue Feb 22 23:30:49 EST 1994 Article: 26865 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!kelly From: kelly@cco.caltech.edu (Kelly F.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Oro Blanco Grapefruit Date: 22 Feb 1994 05:13:21 GMT Organization: California Institute of Technology, Pasadena Lines: 16 Message-ID: <2kc49h$kvk@gap.cco.caltech.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: punisher.caltech.edu I need help from people who have eaten BOTH Oro Blanco Grapefruit AND Chandler Pummelos. Are these fruits VERY similar in tase, texture (of fruit) and thickness/ color of skin? I've had the pummelos, and my friend got some (labeled at an oriental market,) 'oro blanco' grapefruit, and his oro blancos look and seem identical to the Chandler pummelos I've had...were his fruit mislabeled or sold mislabeled to the market? The pummelos I've had, had an *exceptionally* thick rind, dry flesh, and sweet. Color of fruit was white to a barely pink blush. The color of the rind was yellow with a tinge of green on some fruit. Thanks for your help! Kelly kelly@cco.caltech.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!master.cs.rose-hulman.edu!rosevc.rose-hulman.edu!pettitda Tue Feb 22 23:30:50 EST 1994 Article: 26866 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!master.cs.rose-hulman.edu!rosevc.rose-hulman.edu!pettitda From: pettitda@rosevc.rose-hulman.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bonsai trees Date: 22 Feb 94 00:17:41 -0500 Organization: Rose-Hulman Institute of Technology Lines: 6 Message-ID: <1994Feb22.001741.1@rosevc.rose-hulman.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: hydra.rose-hulman.edu Does someone know anything about bonsai trees. I especially want to know about starting one from 'scratch'. What kinds of trees make good bonsai trees is the main thing. Please send me as much info as you can. Thanks David Pettit From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!olivea!apple.com!ntg!dplatt Tue Feb 22 23:30:51 EST 1994 Article: 26867 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!olivea!apple.com!ntg!dplatt From: dplatt@ntg.com (Dave Platt) Subject: Re: Neophyte tomato question Message-ID: <1994Feb22.065948.15601@ntg.com> Organization: New Technologies Group, Inc. Palo Alto CA References: <1994Feb20.114147.23220@cobra.uni.edu> <1994Feb21.203604.8011@ntg.com> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 06:59:48 GMT Lines: 27 In article <1994Feb21.203604.8011@ntg.com> I wrote: >I believe you're correct, Kay. In fact, my somewhat-fuzzy recollection >is that all of the older cultivars, and the wild-form varieties which >were originally domesticated, were indeterminate. The determinate >character was first identified in a single batch of tomatoes (maybe in a >single plant?) sometime early in this century (I have a vague memory of >reading "Florida" and "prior to 1920" but this may be in error). Bingo. Found the reference I thought I remembered. From "Blue Corn and Square Tomatoes" by Rebecca Rupp: "Determinate plants grow in a compact, tidily circular fashion, a habit governed by a specific gene designated 'sp' (self-pruning). This characteristic appeared out of the blue as a spontaneous mutation in Florida in 1914, and has been a boon to tomato breeders ever since. The branches of 'sp' tomatoes all terminate at about the same distance from the main stem, ending in flower buds. In contrast, the indeterminate tomato vines grow indefinitely, continually sprouting new leaves at the branch tip." -- Dave Platt dplatt@ntg.com ..or.. ...netcomsv!ntg!dplatt USNAIL: The 3DO Company, NTG division 2470 Embarcardero Way Palo Alto CA 94303 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!unixg.ubc.ca!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!netnews.nwnet.net!ns1.nodak.edu!badlands!jstrand Tue Feb 22 23:30:52 EST 1994 Article: 26868 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.mic.ucla.edu!unixg.ubc.ca!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!netnews.nwnet.net!ns1.nodak.edu!badlands!jstrand From: jstrand@badlands.NoDak.edu (Jason B Strand) Subject: Free Catalog Sender: usenet@ns1.nodak.edu (Usenet login) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 05:44:56 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: badlands.nodak.edu Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Lines: 8 Recieve a brochure on the best gardening tips for free. Just write and send a SASE to : Gardening c/o. R. Strand Box 5077 205 Chuchil Fargo, ND 50105 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!newcastle.ac.uk!eata!npf Tue Feb 22 23:30:53 EST 1994 Article: 26869 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!newcastle.ac.uk!eata!npf From: Paul.Fletcher@newcastle.ac.uk (Paul Fletcher) Subject: Re: Question? Potatoes Nntp-Posting-Host: eata Message-ID: Organization: University of Newcastle upon Tyne, UK NE1 7RU References: <1994Feb14.065648.22827@cobra.uni.edu> Date: Mon, 14 Feb 1994 17:51:13 GMT Lines: 19 In article <1994Feb14.065648.22827@cobra.uni.edu> westendorf@cobra.uni.edu writes: > I have alot of potatoes left from my garden last year, don't remember the > kind. Can I plant them this year and get a new crop of potatoes? > The potatoes are still firm and haven't been sprayed with a sprout > control product. Thanks > Mary > Yes, you can. However, if you had any problems last year, especially potato blight, then it's very risky. It's recommended to choose your seed potatoes from plants which did particularly well the previous year, but it's too late for that now! It's also not recommended to do it year on year indefinitely. Certainly if you ever have a bad year, start afresh the next. I'm going to plant some of last year's and also some new ones of a different variety. If I buy half a stone of new variety every year and save some of each I'll be in potato heaven in a few years! Be warned, though, the message is hearsay, I haven't succeeded yet! Paul From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!kevanh Tue Feb 22 23:30:54 EST 1994 Article: 26870 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!kevanh From: kevanh@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Anglophiles wanted Message-ID: <1994Feb22.084754.4145@lsl.co.uk> Date: 22 Feb 94 08:47:54 +0100 References: <1994Feb21.145133.4143@lsl.co.uk> Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 34 In article <1994Feb21.145133.4143@lsl.co.uk>, clarke@lsl.co.uk writes: > > As regards Chelsea (which I have never been to) - I think that you need > tickets in advance, and on some of the days, admission is restricted to > members of the Royal Horticultural Society. And I've just thought - > it isn't in May either. > The dates for Chelsea are Tuesday 24th - Friday 27th May. The public days are thursday afternoon and all day friday. Some of the RHS gardens will be of interest. Wisley Woking Surrey GU23 6QB (0483) 211750 Rosemoor Great Torrington Devon EX38 8PH (0805) 24067 Hillier Gardens and Arboretum Jermyns Lane Ampfield Romsey Hampshire SO51 0QA (0794) 368787 I am only a new member of the RHS and haven't had chance to visit any of these gardens yet. Kevan From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!lsl!clarke Tue Feb 22 23:30:55 EST 1994 Article: 26871 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Chelsea IS in May Message-ID: <1994Feb22.095746.4147@lsl.co.uk> Date: 22 Feb 94 09:57:46 +0100 References: <1994Feb21.145133.4143@lsl.co.uk> <1994Feb22.084754.4145@lsl.co.uk> Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 16 In article <1994Feb22.084754.4145@lsl.co.uk>, kevanh@lsl.co.uk writes: > In article <1994Feb21.145133.4143@lsl.co.uk>, clarke@lsl.co.uk writes: >> >> As regards Chelsea (which I have never been to) - I think that you need >> tickets in advance, and on some of the days, admission is restricted to >> members of the Royal Horticultural Society. And I've just thought - >> it isn't in May either. >> > The dates for Chelsea are Tuesday 24th - Friday 27th May. The public days > are thursday afternoon and all day friday. Oops! Rather silly of me to say that Chelsea flower show wasn't in May! It just seemed so early in the year. Not as if that will prevent the exhibitors from dislaying plants from ALL seasons in perfect condition. I usually go to the Southport flower show (further North in England) which IS held later in the year. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!wayne Tue Feb 22 23:30:57 EST 1994 Article: 26872 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!wayne From: wayne@math.psu.edu (Gene Wayne) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Dogtooth Violet Date: 22 Feb 1994 13:14:15 GMT Organization: Mathematics Department, Pennsylvania State University Lines: 7 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <2kd0f7$895@soc2.pop.psu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: poincare.math.psu.edu Does anyone know of a source for the seeds of dogtooth violets (Erythronium dens-canis)? They're listed in Parks' catalogue, but when I tried to order them they weren't available. Thanks for any tips. -- Gene Wayne (814)-865-7527 Dept. of Math., Penn State Univ. wayne@math.psu.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc Tue Feb 22 23:30:57 EST 1994 Article: 26873 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc From: billmc@microsoft.com (Bill McJohn) Subject: Re: Composting Newspaper? Message-ID: Organization: Microsoft Corporation Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 17:33:09 GMT References: <36.4678.2552.0N41F4EE@gcbb.granite.mn.org> <2j917m$1f0@news.bu.edu> Lines: 59 In article <2j917m$1f0@news.bu.edu> bailey@butyng.bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >Jim! Any tips on dealing with chunks of sod from lawn-turned-into-flower-beds? >Aside from my omnipresent oak leaf problem, dealing with chunks of sod in >my compost is my biggest problem. They range in size from a few inches to >a foot or more square, and I try to beat off most of the topsoil, but some >sticks. They don't seem to decompose much over a summer of composting -- >and I try to be sure they are roots up so they don't try to grow. > I'm not Jim, but this is what I did with the sod from my new beds, based on an exhibit in the Seattle Tilth Association demonstration garden: I piled the sod off by itself, grassy sides together, moistening the pile as I went. Then I covered the pile with black plastic and let it sit. Every couple of months, I pulled the plastic back and re-moistened the pile. The black plastic prevents the grass from photosynthesizing if it resprouts. (And it will--turf grass is remarkably hard to kill.) Keeping the sod in a separate pile allows it to break down at its own slow pace, without interfering with the regular compost heap. As long as it's sufficiently moist, it will break down eventually. I built my sod pile two years ago, and I'm pretty sure that the original sod has broken down enough to use as compost. Unfortunately, I added more sod to it last year, and the new sod may not have broken down yet. (I'm not very good at batch processing in my compost bins, either.) I added composted manure and old compost to the sod pile as I built it, which may have speeded the process. (Or maybe not, but it made me feel good.) This is a slow, cool, anaerobic method (as opposed to the fast, hot, aerobic method used in many piles), so it won't kill weed seeds or pathogens. Plus, the pile contains a lot of soil, which came with the sod roots, so the resulting compost will not have the same texture as compost from a compost heap--I expect it to be more like amended soil than like compost. An alternative solution is to compost the sod in place. When you dig the bed, dig out a spade-depth of soil, put the sod in the bottom of the trench (grassy side down), and replace the soil. The sod will decompose in place. This method is good if you're going to let the bed sit for a while before planting. If you use this method, you should remove any perennial weed roots (especially bindweed, if you have it!) from the sod before burying it. Yet another alternative, if you have lots of time before you plan to dig the bed and don't care what it looks like in the meantime, is to cover the grass with black plastic (or weed block cloth, or whatever) and let it sit for a growing season. This will at least weaken the sod, or kill it outright, so it will be easier to deal with when you dig the bed. Bill McJohn billmc@microsoft From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc Tue Feb 22 23:30:58 EST 1994 Article: 26874 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc From: billmc@microsoft.com (Bill McJohn) Subject: Heliotrope Organization: Microsoft Corporation Message-ID: Date: Fri, 18 Feb 1994 19:29:35 GMT Lines: 21 A couple of weeks ago, I posted a request for information about starting Heliotrope from seed and offered to summarize responses for the net. Several people responded (thank you all!); here is a brief summary. One person had dismal results--less than 5% germination, even though she turned the seed over to a professional greenhouse. The rest indicated that it was easy to start heliotrope under lights, with no special treatment. (Two mentioned bottom heat, which makes sense for a tender perennial.) This suggests that it's important to get fresh seed from a reliable source. Those who have grown it in past years also provided useful cultural information: it's very frost tender, prefers full sun (in northern climates, at least) and warmth, but dislikes high humidity. Thanks to all who responded! Bill McJohn billmc@microsoft From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!cac.psu.edu!gho Tue Feb 22 23:30:59 EST 1994 Article: 26875 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!cac.psu.edu!gho From: gho@cac.psu.edu (George H. Otto) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Composting Newspaper? Date: 22 Feb 1994 15:20:02 GMT Organization: Penn State University, Center for Academic Computing Lines: 35 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kd7r2$6oo@hearst.cac.psu.edu> References: <36.4678.2552.0N41F4EE@gcbb.granite.mn.org> <2j917m$1f0@news.bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: hotlanta.cac.psu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: |>Any tips on dealing with chunks of sod from lawn-turned-into-flower-beds? Among other solutions, billmc@microsoft.com (Bill McJohn) suggests: |> Yet another alternative, if you have lots of time before you |> plan to dig the bed and don't care what it looks like in the |> meantime, is to cover the grass with black plastic (or weed |> block cloth, or whatever) and let it sit for a growing season. |> This will at least weaken the sod, or kill it outright, so it |> will be easier to deal with when you dig the bed. A variation of this approach that I've used successfully is to cover the proposed bed with several thicknesses of newspaper and cover the newpaper with several inches of compost. The result looks like an unplanted bed - not at all unattractive. I usually try to do this in the fall before spring preparation of new beds. The ground is very workable by spring and you end up with very little refuse from the sod for the compost pile. The newsprint will decompose completely over the winter. By doing it in the fall, you also will have determined your bed dimensions to help with winter planning and mail order selection. I wish I were that organized! If you don't cover the bed until spring or summer, you still can get significant softening of the sod in a few weeks. It softens faster when the ground is moist than when it's dry. Your sod composting problems are reduced, but not to the same extent as with the long winter's nap. -- ======================================================================== George H. Otto gho@hotlanta.cac.psu.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!yuma!ront Tue Feb 22 23:31:00 EST 1994 Article: 26876 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!yuma!ront From: ront@picea.CFNR.ColoState.EDU (Ronald Thomas) Subject: Re: Elk/deer resistant plant Message-ID: <1994Feb22.143202.43445@yuma> Date: 22 Feb 94 14:32:02 GMT Distribution: usa References: <1994Feb21.151832.95565@yuma> Nntp-Posting-Host: niwot.cfnr.colostate.edu Organization: College of Natural Resources, Colo. State Univ. Lines: 36 In article <1994Feb21.151832.95565@yuma> kusuma@CS.ColoState.EDU (antonius kusuma) writes: > >Hi! > >First of all, my apology if this topic has been discussed in the >FAQ, but I looked and looked and couldn't find the answer to my >question. >A friend of mine just moved to a new house up in the mountains >of Colorado where the elks and the deer still roam free. He's >thinking about building a small flower garden in his backyard >this spring, preferable one that will provide him with cut flowers >all season long, but he's afraid the elks and the deer would just >make a salad bar out of his garden. >Does anybody in the netland have any suggestion as what to plant >that those animals won't touch, other than daffodils (too late >to plant them anyway) and petunias? >I await your suggestions. Thanks! > Imagine the gall of these animals, daring to try to survive when it might ruin your garden! Why they don't just lay down and die in order to make your life easier is beyond me! My suggestions: tell your friend to get his butt out of the mountains and back to some sanitary little city, where he isn't encroaching on the home range of wild life, and he won't have to worry about nature being an inconvenience to him and his garden. The reason elk & deer are in the gardens of mountain residents is because that is THEIR winter range. Plant NATIVE plants, don't bring any more exotics into these places, and if they get 'et, so be it!! For once in your life, live with and celebrate nature, don't try to circumvent or destroy it!! Ron Thomas ront@niwot.cfnr.colostate.edu Estes Park, Colorado From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!Isis.MsState.Edu!bln1 Tue Feb 22 23:31:01 EST 1994 Article: 26877 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!Isis.MsState.Edu!bln1 From: bln1@Isis.MsState.Edu (Bik Lai Ngan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help with my yard Date: 22 Feb 1994 15:43:12 GMT Organization: Mississippi State University Lines: 30 Message-ID: <2kd96g$c34@Tut.MsState.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: isis.msstate.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Hi there, I am new here and I have just rented a house in a rural area. After about a week since I moved there, it started to rain endlessly. It was then when I realized that my yard which appeared to be ok was actually very poor soil. It got terribly muddy on rainy days. A few friends came to visit me after a rainy day. Since there were so many cars some of them parked on my front yard. After a few hours when they were leaving, their cars stuck in the mud and they had to call someone to tow their cars out. I am afraid something like that would happen again. I thought of planting some more grass so that it would get so muddy but my friends said that won't work. I just wonder what I might do from the experts in this newsgroup. Any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated. Julie -- ========================================= | Oh! My beloved curry chicken rice! | | That heavenly smell never die. | | The juicy chicken bits so fine. | | That sweet spicy taste divine. | | Temptation so strong that I cry, | | Oh! How I miss my curry chicken rice! | ========================================= P.S. The above doesn't necessary represent my school and my fellow schoolmates. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail Tue Feb 22 23:31:02 EST 1994 Article: 26878 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail From: Jim.Rosinia@launchpad.unc.edu (Jim Rosinia) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Tips on encouraging moss? Date: 22 Feb 1994 16:24:04 GMT Organization: University of North Carolina Extended Bulletin Board Service Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kdbj4$qfv@samba.oit.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu Keywords: moss We have a very wooded lot and our "yard" is, for the most part, moss covered. We really like it and we want to encourage it. Any suggestions? (When we bought the house, the previous owners left a couple of bags of 10-10-10 and a spreader in the shed. Since there's no lawn to speak of, do you think they could have used it to fertilize the moss? Does the moss need to be fertilized?) ^^^^ Also, this weekend something wierd happened: I've used a blower in the past to clean debris (gum balls, leaves, etc.) off the moss. I've never had any problems before, but the other day it was as if the air got under the moss and patches of it were ripping off! It doesn't have any roots to hold it down, right? But why hasn't this happened before? And how can I prevent it from happening again? Thanks in advance for your help! jim_rosinia@unc.edu -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information tui hello ZZZZ echnology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!isuvax.iastate.edu!TNEZ3 Tue Feb 22 23:31:03 EST 1994 Article: 26879 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!news.iastate.edu!isuvax.iastate.edu!TNEZ3 From: tnez3@isuvax.iastate.edu (april ammons) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Hoya minima help Date: 22 Feb 1994 16:03:54 GMT Organization: Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa Lines: 11 Message-ID: <2kdada$rqp@news.iastate.edu> Reply-To: tnez3@isuvax.iastate.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: isuvax.iastate.edu I recently purchased a _Hoya minima_ (waxflower vine) and have been unable to find any information on it's needs. It's much smaller and more delicate-looking than _Hoya carnosa_. The leaves are dime-sized or smaller and appear to be covered with fine hairs, not at all waxy like in other hoyas. Anyone know the light/temp/humidity requirements of this plant? Thanks, April From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb Tue Feb 22 23:31:03 EST 1994 Article: 26880 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb From: u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Signs of spring Date: 22 Feb 1994 16:05:51 GMT Organization: USACE Waterways Experiment Station Lines: 17 Distribution: na Message-ID: <2kdagv$k7e@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> References: <1994Feb14.231456.11664@nicmad.uucp> <1994Feb17.191050.14976@gw.wmich.edu> <1994Feb21.200749.15084@wmichgw> NNTP-Posting-Host: apollo.wes.army.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] worked up my beds this past weekend - temperature was low 70's, partly cloudy skies, warm sunshine - American by birth, Southerner by the Grace of God!!! The robins were all over my freshly tilled soil - my yard is crawling with earthworms!! Cleaned out my bluebird boxes Saturday morning, by afternoon late their were nests being built in two of them! Daffodils are blooming, tulips are beginning to show flowers, wild pears are blooming in the countryside, the crabapple tree in my yard is budding out - i'm waiting for the azaleas! sorry if this sounds like rubbing it in, but last year was very bad for me in several ways, and to see the rebirth of spring is a real tonic. No matter where you are, spring's coming! -- Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil Computer Scientist Information Technology Laboratory U.S. Army Corps of Engineers "select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!butterfly.math.unc.edu!elaine Tue Feb 22 23:31:04 EST 1994 Article: 26881 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!butterfly.math.unc.edu!elaine From: elaine@butterfly.math.unc.edu (Elaine Jackson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mellingers? Date: 22 Feb 1994 16:49:30 GMT Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill Lines: 24 Message-ID: <2kdd2q$g3i@bigblue.oit.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: butterfly.math.unc.edu Various folks have written lately, including Jerry Young: >>In short -- I buy a lot of plants through the mail. I have never had >>such a bad experience as I have had with Mellingers. Now I am only one >>person, but they seemed to find multiple ways to make my experience with >>them an unpleasant one. I've 2 similar experiences with Mellingers. They _seemed_ to be offering some nice small stock (roses and trees); the tradeoff appeared to be small size/ low price. What I got was poorly grown, dried out poor little plants that were damaged and/or dead when I got them. I don't feel vengeful toward these misguided folks - maybe they think that their packers or shippers or whoever it is who actually handles the plants is doing a good job. But they don't check up on it, do they? Wish they'd get their business in order. Some of their stock would be worth taking the trouble to grow on from juvenile sizes, if it were well packed and well grown to begin with. As it is, right now I pay White Flower Farm, Edible Landscaping, Antique Rose Emporium, etc., their price. When you get their stock, it's *right*. (No, I don't work for any of 'em. More's the pity - at least I'd get an employee discount...) Elaine Jackson usual employee's disclaimers apply From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!yuma!kusuma Tue Feb 22 23:31:05 EST 1994 Article: 26882 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!yuma!kusuma From: kusuma@CS.ColoState.EDU (antonius kusuma) Subject: Re: Elk/deer resistant plant Message-ID: <1994Feb22.153013.38465@yuma> Date: 22 Feb 94 15:30:13 GMT Distribution: usa References: <1994Feb21.151832.95565@yuma> <1994Feb22.143202.43445@yuma> Nntp-Posting-Host: mozart.cs.colostate.edu Organization: Colorado State University -- Computer Science Department Lines: 55 In article <1994Feb22.143202.43445@yuma> ront@picea.CFNR.ColoState.EDU (Ronald Thomas) writes: >In article <1994Feb21.151832.95565@yuma> kusuma@CS.ColoState.EDU (antonius kusuma) writes: >> >>Hi! >> >>First of all, my apology if this topic has been discussed in the >>FAQ, but I looked and looked and couldn't find the answer to my >>question. >>A friend of mine just moved to a new house up in the mountains >>of Colorado where the elks and the deer still roam free. He's >>thinking about building a small flower garden in his backyard >>this spring, preferable one that will provide him with cut flowers >>all season long, but he's afraid the elks and the deer would just >>make a salad bar out of his garden. >>Does anybody in the netland have any suggestion as what to plant >>that those animals won't touch, other than daffodils (too late >>to plant them anyway) and petunias? >>I await your suggestions. Thanks! >> > >Imagine the gall of these animals, daring to try to survive when it might >ruin your garden! Why they don't just lay down and die in order to make >your life easier is beyond me! > >My suggestions: tell your friend to get his butt out of the mountains and >back to some sanitary little city, where he isn't encroaching on the home >range of wild life, and he won't have to worry about nature being an >inconvenience to him and his garden. The reason elk & deer are in the >gardens of mountain residents is because that is THEIR winter range. > >Plant NATIVE plants, don't bring any more exotics into these places, and if >they get 'et, so be it!! For once in your life, live with and celebrate >nature, don't try to circumvent or destroy it!! > >Ron Thomas >ront@niwot.cfnr.colostate.edu >Estes Park, Colorado Sorry to offend you, oh great bearer of god's truth and wisdom. You're reading too much into my posting.... who said anything about circumventing or even destroying the nature? Is there anything wrong with wanting to having the deer and elks _and_ some nice flowers around me? Sheesh..... Tony Kusuma tony@advance.com kusuma@cs.colostate.edu -- I sought happiness in success, money, love, religion - then I found it in nature, in the simple life. I grow my own food, I make my own clothes - my computers do the rest. Tony Kusuma tonyk@handel.cs.colostate.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!olivea!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb Tue Feb 22 23:31:06 EST 1994 Article: 26883 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!olivea!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb From: u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Date: 22 Feb 1994 16:18:57 GMT Organization: USACE Waterways Experiment Station Lines: 18 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kdb9h$k7e@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> References: <0E062001.ofdig1@pfa.pfa.com.au> <2k5vb5$qhp@crl2.crl.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: apollo.wes.army.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Diatomacious (sp?) earth is supposed to be effective - explanation I got from the local extension service is that it is "painful" for them to crawl over, and dries out their skin, also. White sand should also help, because it's also sharp and therefore painful for them. If you lay boards on the ground, the slugs will congregate there during the day, and you can collect them and destroy them properly (anything is proper for those disgusting creatures!). If you're only dealing with a few transplants, you can try wrapping something around the base of the stem - aluminum foil, maybe heavy paper, although I suspect that wouldn't work. The alum. foil prevents the slug from munching on the stem, and it (hopefully) can't crawl up it, either. -- Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil Computer Scientist Information Technology Laboratory U.S. Army Corps of Engineers "select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb Tue Feb 22 23:31:06 EST 1994 Article: 26884 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb From: u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Date: 22 Feb 1994 16:40:57 GMT Organization: USACE Waterways Experiment Station Lines: 26 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <2kdcip$lb7@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> References: <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: apollo.wes.army.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] david.j.daulton (djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com) wrote: : >I've recently moved to a new house and the garden bed has : >a massive bumblebee nest under it. These bees attack me : >and are quite unfriendly. How can I get rid of them : >without ruining the garden soil itself? They're sleeping now : >under two feet of snow, but that won't last forever :-) : I may be wrong, but I thought bumblebees nested in small groups, or : even solitary, so what you have is yellowjackets. Anyway, here is how I got My mother-in-law thought the same thing, saw one go under a board, so she got a spray can and turned the board over. 10 stings and over 100 dead bees later, she realized her mistake. They *will* sometimes nest in large colonies. If you aren't disinclined to use poison, mix up a batch of malathion or diazinon and pour it down the hole. If they're like yellowjackets, they'll have at least 2 holes, so try to find and treat all. also, if you do this at night after the snow melts and they're active, *DON'T DON'T DON'T* hold a flashlight to see the hole - they'll swarm the light!! -- Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil Computer Scientist Information Technology Laboratory U.S. Army Corps of Engineers "select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb Tue Feb 22 23:31:07 EST 1994 Article: 26885 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb From: u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How To Kill Grass For Flower Bed Date: 22 Feb 1994 16:42:58 GMT Organization: USACE Waterways Experiment Station Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kdcmi$lb7@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> References: <2kaifn$dr1@crchh520.bnr.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: apollo.wes.army.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Patti Brown (pattyb@bnr.ca) wrote: : Hi - : What's the best (read least-back-breaking!) way to kill : bermuda grass in order to clear the area for a flower bed? : The area is approx. 8 ft. x 8 ft. Please post here. R-O-U-N-D-U-P !!! as effective as napalm, and much easier to apply ;-) : Thanks, : Patti : -- Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil Computer Scientist Information Technology Laboratory U.S. Army Corps of Engineers "select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb Tue Feb 22 23:31:08 EST 1994 Article: 26886 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb From: u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Raspberries Date: 22 Feb 1994 16:44:41 GMT Organization: USACE Waterways Experiment Station Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kdcpp$lb7@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: apollo.wes.army.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Has anyone in zone 7 or 8 had any experience with Dorman Red raspberries? are they really heat-adapted? -- Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil Computer Scientist Information Technology Laboratory U.S. Army Corps of Engineers "select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!dmcmenam Tue Feb 22 23:31:09 EST 1994 Article: 26887 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!dmcmenam From: dmcmenam@mtholyoke.edu (D. McMenamin) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Signs of spring Date: 22 Feb 1994 17:01:13 GMT Organization: Mount Holyoke College Lines: 20 Distribution: na Message-ID: <2kddop$2ga@slab.mtholyoke.edu> References: <1994Feb14.231456.11664@nicmad.uucp> <1994Feb17.191050.14976@gw.wmich.edu> <1994Feb21.200749.15084@wmichgw> <2kdagv$k7e@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> NNTP-Posting-Host: mhc.mtholyoke.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] boy do I need some signs of spring! This weekend we had 50 degree temperatures, and felt like we should be running around in our swimsuits! The two warm days melted the snow down to about a foot or so in our (south-facing) front yard. There are actually a few places where you can see the ground now! In one of those bare patches I saw exposed daylily(?) rhizomes. They looked pretty beat up, and were right on the surface. I couldn't see any new growth... yet. The forsythia branches are starting to turn that yellow color that means *something* is happening. Dianna -- Dianna McMenamin | There is more than meets the eye. There is dmcmenam@mhc.mtholyoke.edu | always more than meets the eye. | -- Barbara Rubin Hudson From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.unomaha.edu!cwis.unomaha.edu!mfries Tue Feb 22 23:31:10 EST 1994 Article: 26888 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.unomaha.edu!cwis.unomaha.edu!mfries From: mfries@cwis.unomaha.edu (MICHAEL JOHN FRIES) Subject: Re: What to do with lawn? Message-ID: <1994Feb22.164938.13907@news.unomaha.edu> Sender: news@news.unomaha.edu (UNO Network News Server) Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha References: <2k2sop$gf9@apollo.it.luc.edu> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 16:49:38 GMT Lines: 12 rolson@orion.it.luc.edu writes: > I live on a treeless acre in the far NW suburbs of Chicago. Much of the > backyard is destined to remain treeless because of the septic field. I > have grass (of sorts) everywhere else. I am (nearly) of the belief that > if you are going to have a lawn, it should look like a golf course. On > the other hand, I'm not about to water that much and don't want to use that > many chemicals so I seek your input. What would you do with that much > predominantly clayey land? I await your suggestions....Rick there is alot u can do! think of xoscape like native grasses and wildflwoers that cuts way down on H2O for best advice contact ur local county extension officer!! he\she has the answers for ur specific local good luck> From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!dmcmenam Tue Feb 22 23:31:11 EST 1994 Article: 26889 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!dmcmenam From: dmcmenam@mtholyoke.edu (D. McMenamin) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Date: 22 Feb 1994 17:13:11 GMT Organization: Mount Holyoke College Lines: 18 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <2kdef7$2ga@slab.mtholyoke.edu> References: <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: mhc.mtholyoke.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] The way that I got rid of ground bees was to go into the garden with a digging fork when the ground was *barely* thawed. I vigorously turned over the nest area, and when spring came there were no bees. (The way that I *found* the nest of ground bees was also by digging in the garden. I was immediately followed by a rapid sprint to the house while tearing off my shirt. Much to the amusement of the neighbors, I am sure! ;-) ) I'd worry about the boiling water method, because remember, heat makes insects more active. Dianna -- Dianna McMenamin | There is more than meets the eye. There is dmcmenam@mhc.mtholyoke.edu | always more than meets the eye. | -- Barbara Rubin Hudson From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!gatech!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!hoang Tue Feb 22 23:31:12 EST 1994 Article: 26890 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!gatech!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!hoang From: hoang@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu (Lap Hoang) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: conflicting info/chestnuts Date: 22 Feb 1994 16:47:03 GMT Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kdcu7$g6c@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet2.scri.fsu.edu Chestnut was a major source of fruit and woods, and there were over a million acres in this country. In 1904 a chestnut blight started and in 1950 completely wiped out this industry. Since then, many foundations, associations and devoted individuals have been trying to revive these chestnuts trees. Some people claimed they have crossed or found blight-resistance trees, and they may be correct. It seems that quite a few people are getting into growing these trees now. If you are interested, you may want to get more info. from Chestnut Hills in Florida (904)462-2820, or the American Chestnut Foundation (802) 447-0110. It probably take another 30-40 years to know if we have blight resistance trees, I think. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!unix.sri.com!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones Tue Feb 22 23:31:13 EST 1994 Article: 26891 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!unix.sri.com!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones From: bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) Subject: Re: Signs of spring Message-ID: X-Disclaimer: Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of NVL Sender: usenet@nvl.army.mil Nntp-Posting-Host: 140.183.12.36 Reply-To: bajones@nvl.army.mil Organization: Night Vision Labs, Ft Belvoir, VA References: <1994Feb14.231456.11664@nicmad.uucp> <1994Feb17.191050.14976@gw.wmich.edu> Distribution: na Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 16:12:36 GMT Lines: 15 Its been warm and balmy here in Northern Virginia over the past weekend, and for some reason making me think of the smell of orange blossoms, which I think should be popping out in Arizona at this time of year. -- Elizabeth Jones E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil "A home without a cat, and a well-fed, well-petted, and properly revered cat, may be a perfect home, *perhaps*, but how can it prove its title?" Mark Twain From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!hpwrce!gene Tue Feb 22 23:31:14 EST 1994 Article: 26892 of rec.gardens From: gene@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com (Gene Bradley) Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 15:17:17 GMT Subject: best asparagus variety Message-ID: <660005@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> Organization: lookin fur coool tone Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!hpwrce!gene Newsgroups: rec.gardens Lines: 8 Hello, I have just moved into a new house and am planning my garden and managed to throw away all my catalogs for plants. My question is what is the best asparagus variety and where can I order it. All the nurserys in my area have been sold out... gene.bradley From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!hpwrce!gene Tue Feb 22 23:31:15 EST 1994 Article: 26893 of rec.gardens From: gene@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com (Gene Bradley) Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 15:21:16 GMT Subject: PawPaw Source Message-ID: <660006@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> Organization: lookin fur coool tone Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!hpwrce!gene Newsgroups: rec.gardens Lines: 7 Hello I would like to plant a PawPaw tree, What is a good variety and a source for the plant. gene.bradley From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk Tue Feb 22 23:31:15 EST 1994 Article: 26894 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk From: mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tips on encouraging moss? Date: 22 Feb 1994 18:09:03 GMT Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA Lines: 17 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kdhnv$6m8@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> References: <2kdbj4$qfv@samba.oit.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: venus.larc.nasa.gov Keywords: moss In article <2kdbj4$qfv@samba.oit.unc.edu>, Jim.Rosinia@launchpad.unc.edu (Jim Rosinia) writes: |> We have a very wooded lot and our "yard" is, for the most part, moss |> covered. We really like it and we want to encourage it. Any suggestions? |> (When we bought the house, the previous owners left a couple of bags of |> 10-10-10 and a spreader in the shed. Since there's no lawn to speak of, |> do you think they could have used it to fertilize the moss? Does the moss |> need to be fertilized?) |> ^^^^ I recently read something about spreading moss. I think it said to put some of the moss in a blender with buttermilk or beer, blend and pour onto the areas where you would like the moss to grow. There was also a nice picture of a "moss" garden or lawn in the book. Melissa From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!seberts.uoregon.edu!user Tue Feb 22 23:31:16 EST 1994 Article: 26895 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!seberts.uoregon.edu!user From: eberts@donald.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: rabbits Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 09:47:26 -0800 Organization: U of O Lines: 24 Message-ID: References: <2kacd9INNlbd@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: seberts.uoregon.edu In article <2kacd9INNlbd@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu>, md20@crux2.cit.cornell.edu (Molly Diesing) wrote: > Taking advantage of the "false spring" to see whether anything > survived the extremely cold temperatures of the last month, I > found that rabbits (judging from a tell-tale scrap of fur left > behind) have eaten my swamp pink! Are there any effective rabbit > repellants which I could use to prevent further damage? of the organic variety: predator manure; obtainable from a zoo, something like cougar or bear will make any rabbit think twice about getting closer. blood meal; this has the side effect of attracting things that like blood. and of course, a dog! -- "party people in the house it's a love thang." -tom tom club sonny hays-eberts eberts@donald.uoregon.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!dschneid Tue Feb 22 23:31:17 EST 1994 Article: 26896 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!dschneid From: dschneid@class.class.org (Deb Schneider) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Pruning blackberries Date: 22 Feb 1994 18:03:55 GMT Organization: C.L.A.S.S. Cooperative Library Agency for Systems and Services Lines: 10 Message-ID: <2kdheb$lu9@news.cerf.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: class.class.org We have several newly planted (last spring) blackberry brambles. I had heard they should be pruned back in late winter. Anyone know if this is true and if so how much pruning should be done? Thanks. -- deb dschneid@class.org MY opinions, NOT SilverPlatter's!!! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!moe.coe.uga.edu!joanm Tue Feb 22 23:31:18 EST 1994 Article: 26897 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!moe.coe.uga.edu!joanm From: joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan Maxfield UCNS) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Where to put Honeysuckle? Date: 22 Feb 1994 18:57:36 GMT Organization: University of Georgia, Athens Lines: 26 Message-ID: <2kdkj0$9im@hobbes.cc.uga.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: moe.coe.uga.edu Well, I did it again. I ran out and bought a tree that I didn't research first. I need to go to impulse shoppers anonymous. Anyway... I bought a 'red honeysuckle' bush and I don't know where to put it. I only found notes on the yellow variety in a book on shrubs, is the red one the same? I have sunny areas, shady areas, wet areas and realtively dry areas, even a little hillside. Where does it go? Dan is pretty excited about it, you see, he proposed to me beside a huge Honeysuckle bush, he loves the way they smell. And around here they are just now beginning to flower and they smell *so* wonderful. Also, we are planning our first 'real' garden this year. I love having a yard, even if it's rented. Luckily for us our landlord doesn't mind what we do so long as it looks good (I told him I'd sunbathe alot ;) I sneezed 12 times in a row yesterday, must be spring! Joan -- Joan C. Maxfield * "Je Crois que je vais cracher une joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu * boule de poils" -Henri de la Barbe maxfield@phoenix.cs.uga.edu * From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!convex.convex.com!suplick Tue Feb 22 23:31:19 EST 1994 Article: 26898 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!convex.convex.com!suplick From: suplick@convex.com (Jean Suplick) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Texas perennial garden Date: 22 Feb 94 18:46:39 GMT Organization: CONVEX Computer Corporation, Richardson, TX USA Lines: 22 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: mikey.convex.com I'm expanding my perennial flower garden (mixed border) this year and have been working on building a list of plants that might work. Here are the details: I live in Dallas (approx zone 7). The soil in my garden is excellent (it took a bit of sweat!). Plants need to be hardy enough to withstand good hard freezes every couple years and they need to be tough enough to take the intense sun and heat we get in summer (many plants I grew in Pennsylvania just literally burn up in summer here). Native plants would be excellent as long as they aren't too invasive. The area is a raised bed about 4-5 wide and about 30 feet long. I have Welsh's book on Texas Perennials and a recent book on Texas Native plants (can't remember the author's name -- ended in "ski"), so I have plenty of ideas. Primarily, I'm looking to exchange information with anyone who might acutally have experimented in this area with perennials or who has some experience with any mail order sources for native plants in Texas. Thanks! Jean Suplick suplick@cxsoft.convex.com 214/497-4460 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!darwin.sura.net!osceola.cs.ucf.edu!longwood.cs.ucf.edu!not-for-mail Tue Feb 22 23:31:20 EST 1994 Article: 26899 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!darwin.sura.net!osceola.cs.ucf.edu!longwood.cs.ucf.edu!not-for-mail From: pyle@longwood.cs.ucf.edu (Robert Pyle) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Anglophiles Wanted Date: 22 Feb 1994 14:35:00 -0500 Organization: University of Central Florida Lines: 9 Message-ID: <2kdmp4$83s@longwood.cs.ucf.edu> References: <39166@mindlink.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: longwood.cs.ucf.edu Check out the Botanical Gardens in Oxford, close by Magdalen Bridge. It has been a long time since I was there (back in my student days), but it used to be well worth the visit. While you are in the area, Blenheim Palace in Woodstock (just north of Oxford) is set in beautiful rolling and wooded countryside, although it's not really a botanical garden. Ian. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!koriel!newscast.West.Sun.COM!norski!nann Tue Feb 22 23:31:20 EST 1994 Article: 26900 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!koriel!newscast.West.Sun.COM!norski!nann From: nann@nosun.West.Sun.COM Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mothballs in the Garden Date: 22 Feb 1994 19:35:32 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kdmq5$lp0@newscast.West.Sun.COM> Reply-To: nann@nosun.West.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: norski.west.sun.com My neighbor has recently spread mothballs over an area adjoining our yard, in an effort to discourage cats from using it as a bathroom. I was wondering if anyone knew what kind of effect this would have on any plants in the area as well as toxic effects on children and pets? Will they eventually dissolve? Thanks, Nancy nann@nosun.West.Sun.COM From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!dunix.drake.edu!acad.drake.edu!asc005 Tue Feb 22 23:31:21 EST 1994 Article: 26901 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!dunix.drake.edu!acad.drake.edu!asc005 From: asc005@acad.drake.edu (BIDEE, BIDEE, BOP *) Subject: Garden Club help NEEDED!!! Message-ID: <1994Feb22.132529.1@acad.drake.edu> Lines: 20 Sender: news@dunix.drake.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: acad.drake.edu Organization: Drake University, Des Moines, Iowa, USA Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 19:25:29 GMT Hello, my name is Andy Crouch and I am a student at Drake University. I am looking to start a gardening club here at Drake and Im wondering if anybody on this group has any information that might help me get the group founded. Drake is a medium sized, private University and there has never been a Gardening/Horticulture club here so I've got my work cut out for me... I am specifically looking for help in finding an advisor, speaker ideas, financial and structural support and any other info that anyone might have about their clubs or experience. Email please for i do not peruse this group very often. Andy Crouch asc005@acad.drake.edu asc005@dunix.drake.edu -- CARPE NOCTEM! --Seize The Night From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Tue Feb 22 23:31:22 EST 1994 Article: 26902 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Anglophiles wanted Message-ID: <1994Feb22.134218.23373@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 22 Feb 94 13:42:18 -0600 References: <1994Feb21.145133.4143@lsl.co.uk> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 21 In article <1994Feb21.145133.4143@lsl.co.uk>, clarke@lsl.co.uk writes: > As regards Chelsea (which I have never been to) - I think that you need > tickets in advance, and on some of the days, admission is restricted to > members of the Royal Horticultural Society. And I've just thought - > it isn't in May either. Yes, when I was there last March, it was a members only day... but the door was hanging open, and I just sort of wandered on in... "Oh! I didn't see the sign!" was what I was going to say... but I just kept my mouth shut so that giveaway Iowa twang wouldn't escape, and spent an enjoyable couple of hours taking pictures and notes, and just generally relaxing... (Why do I think my photo is going up at garden entrances all over Britain, with a "watch out for this botanist" sign underneath? ) (And before you send out Interpol, I promise I'm going to the Pacific NW this spring break, so Britain is safe for this year! ;-) ) Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling Tue Feb 22 23:31:23 EST 1994 Article: 26903 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kolling From: kolling@adobe.com (Karen Kolling) Subject: Re: Neophyte Tomato Question Message-ID: <1994Feb22.200936.16448@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated, Mountain View References: <1994Feb19.161840.23176@cobra.uni.edu> <1994Feb21.142646.395@igs.com> Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 20:09:36 GMT Lines: 23 In article <1994Feb21.142646.395@igs.com> bruce@igs.com (Bruce DeYoung) writes: > >PS. Spring must be on its way here! The bulbs have pushed up through the >soil and I've started my tomato and pepper seedlings! Roma, Pink Oxheart >and Brandywine (both heirloom, late varieties), First Lady and Big Boy hybrids. I've succumbed to Tomato Lust in a big way this year, and am planning on planting tomatoes in a couple of differently prepared garden areas, containers with differing soil mixtures, etc. both to gather info about optimal growing conditions and in an attempt to head off the Major Tomato Leaf Blight Disaster that just about totalled my garden tomatoes last year. Since I've set up more indoor lights for the tomato seedlings, I have enough of a lighting setup to actually grow a couple of plants indoors if I can keep them under 5 or 6 feet. Can I prune indeterminate tomatoes in some fashion to keep them producing for awhile if I lop their heads off from time to time? I can't deduce that from the descriptions. Thanks for any info... -- Karen Kolling kolling@adobe.com ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ ^._.^ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Tue Feb 22 23:31:24 EST 1994 Article: 26904 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Neophyte tomato question Message-ID: <1994Feb22.135835.23375@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 22 Feb 94 13:58:35 -0600 References: <1994Feb20.114147.23220@cobra.uni.edu> <2k8vhv$6tq@apollo.it.luc.edu> <761876048snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 37 In article <761876048snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk>, Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) writes: > In article <2k8vhv$6tq@apollo.it.luc.edu> > jmcnult@orion.it.luc.edu "John A. Mcnulty" writes: > >> Kay, perhaps because of your position you are too diplomatic to >> point this out (or maybe I'm just wrong!) but it is my understanding >> that the determinate tomatoes were developed for the produce industry >> so mechanical harvesters could sweep through at one time and harvest >> an entire crop. Cynical, negative person I am, I assume those are >> varieties where *taste* is low on the value scale. >> > > Pending Kay's response, I hope you won't mind if I chip in here and say that it > isn't, I'm afraid, anything like as simple as that. Some of the determinate > 'bush' types have excellent flavour. I won't quote varieties here as the > difference between those grown in the U.K. as opposed to the U.S.A is > considerable, but I can assure you that determinates include some very popular > and well flavoured ones. Ditto to Gary's response! There are a lot of good determinant types... nicely flavored... that I've grown for canning purposes. Some (imho) good determinant types include: Orefon Spring (developed esp. for home gardeners in short season areas) Milano (a newish paste tomato) Roma (one of my old standbys for canning) Celebrity (eating tomato) C'mon, Gary! Part with your tomato cultivar secret names! If we get another "British summer" here in Iowa this year, I'm going to want them! :-) Kay Klier Biology Dept UNI (who has NEVER before been accused of being diplomatic!) ;-) (usually, the thoughts are more along the line of, if you want an unvarnished opinion, ask Kay! (but only if THEY're being diplomatic!) :-) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Tue Feb 22 23:31:25 EST 1994 Article: 26905 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Message-ID: <1994Feb22.120601.11479@walter.cray.com> Lines: 16 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> Date: 22 Feb 94 12:06:00 CST In article <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net>, wentwort@tiac.net (Dick Wentworth) writes: |> I've recently moved to a new house and the garden bed has |> a massive bumblebee nest under it. These bees attack me |> and are quite unfriendly. How can I get rid of them |> without ruining the garden soil itself? They're sleeping now |> under two feet of snow, but that won't last forever :-) |> |> Thank you |> Cassie Wentworth Bumblebee colonies die out in the fall and new ones are started each spring by overwintering Queens. Your colony is dead. You should fill in the hole to keep the queens from finding it in the spring. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!osceola.cs.ucf.edu!longwood.cs.ucf.edu!not-for-mail Tue Feb 22 23:31:27 EST 1994 Article: 26906 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!darwin.sura.net!osceola.cs.ucf.edu!longwood.cs.ucf.edu!not-for-mail From: pyle@longwood.cs.ucf.edu (Robert Pyle) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Ficus Tree : Can I replant cuttings? Date: 22 Feb 1994 14:44:42 -0500 Organization: University of Central Florida Lines: 19 Message-ID: <2kdnba$8m1@longwood.cs.ucf.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: longwood.cs.ucf.edu In article Kristin.Ross@DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Kristin Ross) writes: > >I have a seven foot indoor ficus tree (not sure exactly what kind) that I >pruned this weekend. I have three or four rather large cuttings as a result, >and I'd like to start some new plants if possible. Right now the cuttings are >in water. > >If I leave them in the water, will they grow roots? Can I just plant them >in soil the way they are? I have rooted cutting of ficus many times in the past with plenty of success, probably better than 80%. I don't know as I would root in water, even if they did root, plants rooted in water don't seem to transplant well. I always root in a sterilized soil mix, usually a mixture of peat moss and vermiculite. That way you avoid problems of rot organisms lurking in soil. Best of luck, Ian. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU!jsb5w Tue Feb 22 23:31:28 EST 1994 Article: 26907 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU!jsb5w From: jsb5w@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Jacqueline S. Biscardi) Subject: Invasive Honeysuckle Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: uva Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 17:32:22 GMT Lines: 13 My husband and I just bought a house on twp acres in central Virginia (near Charlottesville). The lot was very overgrown with honeysuckle, Virginia creeper, poison ivy :( and other unidentifiable woody vines. We have been pulling these vines out of trees and (hopefully) out of the ground all winter and have cleared a lot of this land...there were some pretty cedars and walnut trees smothered under all that mess! My question is: what can I do to make sure this stuff doesn't come back? I have thought about putting black plastic everywhere, mowing it constantly in the summer, or planting something else invasive (eg, ivy) but prettier. Any ideas? Oh... I tried "round up" ont the poison ivy three times last summer and it didn't seem to faze the stuff. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!waikato!canterbury.ac.nz!southpower.co.nz!ccc.govt.nz!andrew Tue Feb 22 23:31:28 EST 1994 Article: 26908 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!waikato!canterbury.ac.nz!southpower.co.nz!ccc.govt.nz!andrew Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP! Need snail advice!!! Message-ID: <1994Feb23.093603.2304@ccc.govt.nz> From: andrew@ccc.govt.nz (Andrew Groom) Date: 23 Feb 94 09:36:02 NZDT References: <2jrcts$di8@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca> Organization: Christchurch City Council, New Zealand. Lines: 29 In article <2jrcts$di8@nermal.cs.uoguelph.ca>, hmiddlet@uoguelph.ca (Heather Middleton) writes: > Scott Fisher (sfisher@megatest.com) wrote: > > : I've described our project at length to exact pity for my plight. Any > : non-toxic remedies would be appreciated. Beer traps are out, as the > : teachers feel this would be worse than the chemicals. Sort of wierd to > : me, but I can see the point here, there's probably some ordinance against > : alcohol on the school premises. I'm coming in a little late on this one, but one solution I've seen recently for keeping snails out of barrels, pots, etc., is to use an electrified foil strip wrapped around the barrel, using a 9 volt battery for power. It's harmless to everything else, but it gives snails a nasty fright ! "Just give them a short, sharp shock and they don't do it again" ( Pink Floyd, Dark Side of the Moon ). It was described on a NZ TV program "Living Earth", but I can't remember any more details. Sounds like fun, though :-) Cheers Andrew ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Andrew Groom Phone: (03) 3711 862 GIS Business analyst, MIS Fax: (03) 3711 789 Christchurch City Council Email: andrew@ccc.govt.nz P.O. Box 237, Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!jobone!ed8200!pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com!millerb Tue Feb 22 23:31:29 EST 1994 Article: 26909 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!jobone!ed8200!pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com!millerb From: millerb@pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com (Bryan Miller) Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Message-ID: <1994Feb22.195204.29787@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com> Sender: news@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: pt9217.ped.pto.ford.com Organization: Ford Motor Co., Powertrain Electronics X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL7] References: <2kdcip$lb7@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> Distribution: usa Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 19:52:04 GMT Lines: 36 Ernest Boswell appears to have written on 22 Feb 1994 16:40:57 GMT: [ editing occured here... ] > My mother-in-law thought the same thing, saw one go under a board, so she got > a spray can and turned the board over. 10 stings and over 100 dead bees later, > she realized her mistake. They *will* sometimes nest in large colonies. > If you aren't disinclined to use poison, mix up a batch of malathion or > diazinon and pour it down the hole. If they're like yellowjackets, they'll > have at least 2 holes, so try to find and treat all. also, if you do this > at night after the snow melts and they're active, *DON'T DON'T DON'T* hold > a flashlight to see the hole - they'll swarm the light!! > -- > Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil > Computer Scientist > Information Technology Laboratory > U.S. Army Corps of Engineers > > "select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" Since Bumblebees are excellent pollenators you might try a less extreme method such as slow flooding with a hose (try this at night). This might convince the bees to leave of there own accord. With Malathion the bees that are only mildly poisoned and do escape will pass the toxins up the food chain (ie birds, etc). cheers, Bryan ----------------------------------------------------------------- "As far as the laws of mathematics refer to reality, they are not certain; and as far as they are certain, they do not refer to reality" Albert Einstein <<< I don't speak for Ford, nor they for me... >>> From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha Tue Feb 22 23:31:30 EST 1994 Article: 26910 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha From: martha@baervan.nmt.edu (Martha Cather) Subject: cover crop for NM garden Message-ID: <1994Feb22.173244.28349@nmt.edu> Sender: news@nmt.edu (News software) Nntp-Posting-Host: baervan Organization: PRRC-New Mexico Tech, Socorro NM Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 17:32:44 GMT Lines: 23 Hi, I live in the desert SW and have a small garden (25 X25). I have hauled in dirt (mistake) so the soil in the garden is rather heavy clayey stuff, rather than the sand and gravel of the surrounding desert. Anyway, I am considering planting a cover crop in half of the garden this summer, to act as a green manure and keep the weeds down. I have used horse/cow manure on it for several years and it is getting a bit weedy, so I'd like something that is pretty vigorous about choking out the weeds. Other requirements...very tolerant of heat and sun. In the summer, our temps are regularly above 93F, with lows in the 60's. Sunshine most of the day. The garden is on a drip system and as I said, the soil is pretty heavy, so moisture shouln't be a problem. The other potential problem is that the dirt I had hauled in had alot of salt in it. Over the years, we have managed to get rid of most of it, but there is still probably a tendency towards alkalinity. Any suggestions on vigorous but noninvasive cover crops would be welcome, also suggestions for winter cover might be useful. Thanks for the help. Martha C. in Socorro NM email: martha@baervan.nmt.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!cs.umd.edu!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail Tue Feb 22 23:31:31 EST 1994 Article: 26911 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!cs.umd.edu!dtix.dt.navy.mil!oasys.dt.navy.mil!not-for-mail From: obrien@oasys.dt.navy.mil (John O'Brien) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Birdhouse source, Purple Martins Date: 22 Feb 1994 16:38:30 -0500 Organization: Carderock Division, NSWC, Bethesda, MD Lines: 34 Message-ID: <2kdu0mINNcu9@oasys.dt.navy.mil> References: <5qxqm2x.lizszeliga@delphi.com> Reply-To: obrien@oasys.dt.navy.mil (John O'Brien) NNTP-Posting-Host: oasys.dt.navy.mil I installed a purple martin house on the shores of Keuka Lake in western New York State. It is an aluminum structure with a sheave and line arrangement to lower the house for cleaning in the fall. First we installed it in its presesnt location, about 50 feet from a 60 foot (20m) cottonwood tree. The birds would not move in until the tree was removed (for health, or lack thereof, reasons). They now arrive sometime in May and stay until exactly August 15th. On the 17th we can tell that they have left by the mosquito population increase. Aluminum construction is a major plus. The birds make a terrible mess over the course of the summer. I used a wire brush for cleaning at the end of last season. I believe that some barn swallows also inhabit the lavish aluminum complex (not that there's anything wrong with that). They are a lot smaller and I suspect that the purple martin got it's mosquito catching reputation based size oops based on size. They are quite leery of cats as you may well imagine. The tree problem may have been compounded by a local cat. We leave the apartment doors open all winter so they can establish housekeeping in the event that we do not make it to open up at the proper time in the spring. John O'Brien Where would we be without the information superhighway. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!darkstar.UCSC.EDU!cats.ucsc.edu!gangriel Tue Feb 22 23:31:32 EST 1994 Article: 26912 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!darkstar.UCSC.EDU!cats.ucsc.edu!gangriel From: gangriel@cats.ucsc.edu (Stefan Alexei Lasiewski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Indian Line Farm??? (other CSA's???) Date: 22 Feb 1994 22:22:41 GMT Organization: University of California; Santa Cruz Lines: 15 Message-ID: <2ke0jh$68c@darkstar.UCSC.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: am.ucsc.edu Could anyone please email me info about the Indian Line Farm in Great Barrington, Mass??? I have their address, but was hoping for contact over the net, a little quicker than snail-mail..ya know...I am hoping to obtain info on their history and organizational themes...all I've seen is a video of theirs, and am interested in their input for my term paper... I'm interested in the Community Supported Agriculture, and how it overcomes the barriers of the modern market to be succesful. If anyone can help me, that'd be great... thanks!!! Thanks a bunch!!! --Stefan From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Tue Feb 22 23:31:33 EST 1994 Article: 26913 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Message-ID: <9402222303.AA29704@im8> Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Date: Tue, 22 Feb 94 18:03:30 EST X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA27510; Tue, 22 Feb 94 15:06:59 -0800 X-Received: from IM.LCS.MIT.EDU by inet-gw-1.pa.dec.com (5.65/13Jan94) id AA14292; Tue, 22 Feb 94 15:01:27 -0800 X-Received: from im8 (IM8.LCS.MIT.EDU) by im (4.1/TOC-1.1S) id AA12257; Tue, 22 Feb 94 18:03:38 EST X-Received: by im8 (4.1/TOC-1.1C) id AA29704; Tue, 22 Feb 94 18:03:30 EST X-To: rec.gardens.usenet Lines: 30 In article: <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> wentwort@tiac.net (Dick Wentworth) well acutally Cassie Wentworth asked: >I've recently moved to a new house and the garden bed has >a massive bumblebee nest under it. These bees attack me >and are quite unfriendly. How can I get rid of them >without ruining the garden soil itself? They're sleeping now >under two feet of snow, but that won't last forever :-) Nests of bumblebees (large, fuzzy, roly-poly bees) do not last over the winter. Each colony produces a few queens which hide under the leaves (out of the nest) and start new colonies in the spring. So the nest won't survive the winter. OTOH, a new queen may find the soil conditions to her liking and use the same general location next year. However, bumblebees are not particularly agressive. You may have had yellowjacket wasps (3/4", shiny, bee-shaped) which are quite agressive. I believe these also do not overwinter as a colony. There may be other species of bees/wasps that nest in the ground that will overwinter as a colony, so there is a small possibility that you will still have a colony there come spring. But it's doubtful. Hope this makes you feel better. --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Tue Feb 22 23:31:34 EST 1994 Article: 26914 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Message-ID: <9402222303.AA29709@im8> Subject: Re: vermiculture Date: Tue, 22 Feb 94 18:03:52 EST X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA27505; Tue, 22 Feb 94 15:06:58 -0800 X-Received: from IM.LCS.MIT.EDU by inet-gw-1.pa.dec.com (5.65/13Jan94) id AA14311; Tue, 22 Feb 94 15:01:40 -0800 X-Received: from im8 (IM8.LCS.MIT.EDU) by im (4.1/TOC-1.1S) id AA12261; Tue, 22 Feb 94 18:04:00 EST X-Received: by im8 (4.1/TOC-1.1C) id AA29709; Tue, 22 Feb 94 18:03:52 EST X-To: rec.gardens.usenet Lines: 27 In article: <1994Feb22.022710.27757@k12.ucs.umass.edu> jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) asks: >I have several students interested in investigating vermiculture. I have >ordered the book "Worms Eat My Garbage", but would like some advise. Where >can I purchase red worms for this purpose? Would they have them at a bait >shop? Thanks for any help......Jeff I was looking for the same information. Bait shops charge an arm and a leg for worms, too much for amounts used in vermiculture. I checked out the ads in the back of Organic Gardening and Fine Gardening magazines and found a couple of places in the south which mail order worms in quantity at more reasonable prices. I decided to wait for warmer weather to order, so my worms won't die in shipment. Now that it's starting to warm up, I've misplaced the addresses so I suppose I'll have to go down to the library and look them up again. Good luck on your search. If anyone can recommend some worm farms as better than others, I'm sure some of us would like to hear about it. --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Tue Feb 22 23:31:35 EST 1994 Article: 26915 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Message-ID: <9402222302.AA29699@im8> Subject: Re: Birdhouse source, Purple Martins Date: Tue, 22 Feb 94 18:02:51 EST X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA27533; Tue, 22 Feb 94 15:07:16 -0800 X-Received: from IM.LCS.MIT.EDU by inet-gw-1.pa.dec.com (5.65/13Jan94) id AA14243; Tue, 22 Feb 94 15:00:39 -0800 X-Received: from im8 (IM8.LCS.MIT.EDU) by im (4.1/TOC-1.1S) id AA12254; Tue, 22 Feb 94 18:02:59 EST X-Received: by im8 (4.1/TOC-1.1C) id AA29699; Tue, 22 Feb 94 18:02:51 EST X-To: misc.consumers.house.usenet, rec.gardens.usenet Lines: 40 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:26915 misc.consumers.house:48229 In article: <5qxqm2x.lizszeliga@delphi.com> lizszeliga@delphi.com asks: >Well, here in New England, we have had two days of 60+ degrees. It was >well deserved, because the last two months have been *cold* and *stormy*. >Anyway the weather has us thinking about the purple martin birdhouse we >want to install this spring. These birds are supposed to be big time >insect eaters, hence the desire to attract them. Has anyone had success >attracting them? Does anyone know of a source for the birdhouses? They >are usually made of aluminum, with twelve or so bird "apartments". They >are available through catalogs, but tend to be pricey, ($180 or so for >house and mounting pole). I'm hoping to find something a little more >reasonable. However, if someone can convince me that these birds will >eat $180 worth of mosquitos, I'll buy it anyway You don't say where in New England you are located. Here in eastern Mass. martins are unusual. They nest in only a few areas where they have nested for decades. It's also likely that starlings will take over your martin house. For mosquito control, a bat house would be more effective. Bats fly at night when the mosquitoes are more active. Bats are becoming endangered, so they could use some help. (I happen to think they are really cute, too, but then I always was sort of weird.) Ask for promotional materials from: Bat Conservation International P.O. Box 162603 Austin, TX 78716-2603 phone: 512/327-9721 fax: 512/327-9724 They'd like you to become a member or at least give them a donation. They sell bat-related items, too. I have no commercial connection with these folks, I'm not even a member! --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jbuffer Tue Feb 22 23:31:36 EST 1994 Article: 26916 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!jbuffer From: jbuffer@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James J Buffer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: composting horse manure Date: 22 Feb 1994 23:28:13 GMT Organization: The Ohio State University Lines: 6 Message-ID: <2ke4ed$4mm@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: top.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu Okay, I just dumped several cubic feet of horse manure into my compost bin (a big wood box with chicken wire sides). Now what? Should I mix other stuff into it (leaves, sawdust)? How long until I can put it into the garden without frying the perennials? As Shakspear said: "Reply, reply" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Tue Feb 22 23:31:37 EST 1994 Article: 26917 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: Neophyte tomato question References: <1994Feb20.114147.23220@cobra.uni.edu> <2k8vhv$6tq@apollo.it.luc.edu> <761876048snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <1994Feb22.135835.23375@cobra.uni.edu> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 21 Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 00:10:52 +0000 Message-ID: <761962252snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article <1994Feb22.135835.23375@cobra.uni.edu> klier@cobra.uni.edu writes: > C'mon, Gary! Part with your tomato cultivar secret names! If we get another > "British summer" here in Iowa this year, I'm going to want them! :-) > well...*strictly* in the interests of scientific comparison, you understand :-) ...over here the popular outdoor determinants include Roma, Sleaford Abundance (an F1), Tornado (another F1), Red Alert (F1), Totem (F1), Ida Gold, Pixie and Plumito. Joking aside, I'd be interested to learn whether these varieties are grown at all in the U.S.A. (Roma aside, of course, which we've established as a common link) or whether our cultural/marketing conditions are so different that what works for us doesn't work for you. Ah, and Kay ....what can Iowa *possibly* have done to have earned a British summer? -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!csd.unb.ca!nbnet.nb.ca!kinnong Tue Feb 22 23:31:38 EST 1994 Article: 26918 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!csd.unb.ca!nbnet.nb.ca!kinnong From: kinnong@nbnet.nb.ca (Greg MacKinnon) Subject: Re: Rear Tine Tiller: To Buy Or Not To Buy Message-ID: Sender: news@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca Organization: nbnet References: <2kbrj2$neq@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 01:03:35 GMT Lines: 40 In article <2kbrj2$neq@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> gould@ixeab2 (Dana C. Gould) writes: >From: gould@ixeab2 (Dana C. Gould) >Subject: Rear Tine Tiller: To Buy Or Not To Buy >Date: 22 Feb 1994 02:44:50 GMT >Hi folks, > >I've been toying around with the idea of getting a rear tine tiller. My >problem, cost of course. I have a front tine for my 3000 sq. ft. garden >that I've used for the past several years. I'm thinking of enlarging the >gardern to about 5000 sq. ft. and think that the rear tine tiller might be >a good purchase at this point. I've used my neighbor's Troy and loved it. > >So, for my questions. I know Troy's are the best, but I can't see spending >$1000 for a tiller and I can't seem to find a used one. >The home stores (HQ, Builder's Square, Lowes) have similar tillers for about >$500, and I was wondering if anyone out there has any experience with them. >The one thing I notice that is different is that the Troy's have tines that >rotate in the forward direction just like my front tine tiller, but the others >for the most part have counter rotating tines. Which is better, forward >rotating tines or backwards rotating tines and why? One model, an MTD, lets >you choose forward or backwards rotating tines, but it costs $150 more than >the purely backward rotating tine machine. Is this option worth $150? > >Finally, are there any other things I should consider? Any experiences, good >or bad will be appreciated. > >Thanks >Dana Gould >d.c.gould@larc.nasa.gov > Dana, you have my vote for the Troy. Buy a new one if possible. I have had mine for 10 years now. I bought it all apart in a box and at the time I was told it was 10 years old. Tines and belts are a little pricey, the rewarded work is worth the extra cost. Two things in life you do not lend, your wife and your tiller. Good luck From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!csd.unb.ca!nbnet.nb.ca!kinnong Tue Feb 22 23:31:39 EST 1994 Article: 26919 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!csd.unb.ca!nbnet.nb.ca!kinnong From: kinnong@nbnet.nb.ca (Greg MacKinnon) Subject: IMP, degree days Message-ID: Sender: news@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca Organization: nbnet Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 01:09:58 GMT Lines: 7 Looking for information on predicting outbreaks of diseases and pests in turf grass using degree days. Thanks in advance Greg From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Tue Feb 22 23:31:40 EST 1994 Article: 26920 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, ADN Computer Center Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 14:28:13 CST From: Message-ID: <94053.142814U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Under Trees... References: Lines: 21 In article , csjan@news.cts.eiu.edu (Jan B. Faires) says: > >We just moved to a new subdivision. The lawn is lumpy, and there's >moss growing 'midst the sparse grass under the shade trees (maples, >I think). It's a corner lot. Any suggestions for what to plant >under the trees? I'd consider ground cover or shrubs or whatever. >Thanks. >Jan B. >Jan Faires, EIU, Charleston, IL 61920 csjan@ux1.cts.eiu.edu Jan, I have seen a number of similar situations where ivies of various sorts are used. I have vincas (periwinkles) under my (VERY shady) maple. These all spread, but slowly. So if you are interested in quick results, plant more. Mowing should keep them out of the rest of the yard. For a little flash, bleeding hearts grow well there too. You might want to consider some early tulips or crocuses for color before the leaves come out. There are others, and of course annuals for fast results. Hans Goeckner UIC Oak Park, IL From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Tue Feb 22 23:31:41 EST 1994 Article: 26921 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!uicvm.uic.edu!u14371 Organization: University of Illinois at Chicago, ADN Computer Center Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 14:40:56 CST From: Message-ID: <94053.144056U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: PawPaw Source References: <660006@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> Lines: 10 In article <660006@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com>, gene@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com (Gene Bradley) says: > >Hello >I would like to plant a PawPaw tree, What is a good variety and >a source for the plant. I haven't any source information handy; but if you want fruit, be sure to plant two (2) trees. Hans Goeckner > gene.bradley From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!uchinews!quads!jomiller Tue Feb 22 23:31:41 EST 1994 Article: 26922 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!uchinews!quads!jomiller From: jomiller@quads.uchicago.edu (jethro owen miller) Subject: Book Suggestion Wanted Message-ID: <1994Feb23.010230.21259@midway.uchicago.edu> Sender: news@uchinews.uchicago.edu (News System) Reply-To: jomiller@midway.uchicago.edu Organization: University of Chicago Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 01:02:30 GMT Lines: 12 Hello. My mother, who is an avid gardener, is moving to a house on the Long Island Sound. She is looking for books about gardening on the water, but hasn't had any luck finding them. Can anybody suggest good books? Please email me directly, as I don't read this group regularly. Thanks in advance. :-) Jethro Miller jeth@cicero.spc.uchicago.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!nova.umd.edu!news Tue Feb 22 23:31:42 EST 1994 Article: 26923 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!nova.umd.edu!news From: CHOMKO@UMUC.UMD.EDU (Eric Chomko) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Coffee Filters in compost pile? Date: 23 Feb 1994 02:59:25 GMT Organization: University of Maryland University College Lines: 21 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kegqd$qct@nova.umd.edu> References: <2k3sbq$shg@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: umuc.umd.edu X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS v1.25 In-Reply-To: haldas@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu's message of 19 Feb 1994 02:08:58 GMT In <2k3sbq$shg@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> haldas@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu writes: > bermes@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (Terry Bermes) writes: > > Hello, > > Recently I've started collecting cans of coffee grounds and > > filters from work and dumping them in my compost pile. The problem, > > I think, is that it seems to be much more filter than coffee. Do any > > of you more experienced composters have any feelings or knowledge one > > way or another regarding this? > > > > terry > We compost our coffee filters along with the coffee grounds etc. > -- > -- Gene Haldas > -- Tallahassee, Florida coffee filters sometimes are made of polycotton (synthetic). And they don"t break down as quickly as organic ones. Paula. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!vms.csd.mu.edu!25U7GARDINIE Tue Feb 22 23:31:43 EST 1994 Article: 26924 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!spool.mu.edu!vms.csd.mu.edu!25U7GARDINIE From: 25u7gardinie@vms.csd.mu.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: HID lighting ??s Date: 23 Feb 1994 02:26:28 GMT Organization: Marquette University - Computer Services Lines: 9 Message-ID: <0097A74A.07AFF6A0@vms.csd.mu.edu> Reply-To: 25u7gardinie@vms.csd.mu.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: vmse.csd.mu.edu Well actually it is only a single question, but anyway. I have been thinking lately of switching my lighting from flourescent to an HID system. Since I lately of switching my lighting from flourescent to an HID system. Recently it occured to me that there could be a problem with that. The reason for my concern is that I keep my plants in my bedroom/work studio and as such I spend a good deal of time in the same place as them during the course of the day. Is there a problem with UV rays or anything else I should be concerned with in light of such exposure? Any help you can offer me would be greatly appreciated. E-mail or post whichever you prefer. Thanks terribly much. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha Tue Feb 22 23:31:44 EST 1994 Article: 26925 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!nmt.edu!baervan.nmt.edu!martha From: martha@baervan.nmt.edu (Martha Cather) Subject: Re: Screening a highway with plants. Message-ID: <1994Feb22.221649.16390@nmt.edu> Sender: news@nmt.edu (News software) Nntp-Posting-Host: baervan Organization: PRRC-New Mexico Tech, Socorro NM References: Distribution: usa Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 22:16:49 GMT X-Original-Newsgroups: rec.gardens Lines: 8 Russian olive trees make a good thorny hedge, unfortunately they aren't evergreen, so you'd still have view/noise problems in the winter. You could try a row of olives and a row of some kind of fast-growing pine tree. That is what we have done for a similar situation. You may not have that kind of room though. Martha in NM From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink.bc.ca!a7766 Tue Feb 22 23:31:45 EST 1994 Article: 26926 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!deep.rsoft.bc.ca!mindlink.bc.ca!a7766 From: Ron_Clancy@mindlink.bc.ca (Ron Clancy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Georgia/Carolina Gardens? Date: 23 Feb 94 02:26:31 GMT Organization: MIND LINK! - British Columbia, Canada Lines: 6 Distribution: world Message-ID: <39243@mindlink.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: mindlink.bc.ca I am planning a trip to Georgia and South Carolina in mid-March. What can I expect in the way of weather and plants in bloom? I am planning to hit Callaway Gardens; Savannah and the plantations around Charleston. Am I missing anything major? How much time is required to see Callaway Gardens properly? You can send replies directly to me: Ron_Clancy@mindlink.bc.ca From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Tue Feb 22 23:31:46 EST 1994 Article: 26927 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Coffee Filters in compost pile? Message-ID: <1994Feb23.022535.10346@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 02:25:35 GMT Lines: 19 In article bermes@cbnewsc.cb.att.com (Terry Bermes) writes: > Recently I've started collecting cans of coffee grounds and >filters from work and dumping them in my compost pile. The problem, >I think, is that it seems to be much more filter than coffee. Do any >of you more experienced composters have any feelings or knowledge one >way or another regarding this? Paper filters will eventually rot and join your compost, but they take longer than many other things in your pile. When I'm feeling industrious, I shake the grounds out and discard the paper. Most of the time the whole thing goes in; I just let the pile work longer. I don't notice any problems. Some people object to using bleached paper filters, but they shouldn't harm your compost. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |E-mail: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!conwam2 Wed Feb 23 23:59:23 EST 1994 Article: 26928 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!conwam2 From: conwam2@alum01.its.rpi.edu (The Conways) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help: When to start seeds? Date: 23 Feb 1994 01:21:28 GMT Organization: Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy NY Lines: 15 Message-ID: <2keb2o$5uf@usenet.rpi.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: alum01.its.rpi.edu This is my first spring as a new homeowner and I need a little advice on starting my perennial seeds that I just got from Burpee. I've ordered various flowers for my region (upstate New York) and was wondering when's a good time to start them and is there any thing special I should do for them -- other than lots of sun, water, and keeping the cats away! Thanks for any advice you may provide! Karen -- ****************************************************************************** * Pretty women wonder where my secret lies. / I'm not cute or built to fit a * fashion model size / But when I start to tell them, / They think I'm telling * lies. / I say, / It's in the reach of my arms, / The span of my hips, / The From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Wed Feb 23 23:59:24 EST 1994 Article: 26929 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Last frost - Delaware Message-ID: <1994Feb22.161856.13816@walter.cray.com> Lines: 69 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1994Feb21.180145.3614@es.dupont.com> Date: 22 Feb 94 16:18:55 CST In article <1994Feb21.180145.3614@es.dupont.com>, reynolse@esvx17.es.dupont.com writes: |> I was commentting to some coworkers about my plans for planting |> my vegtable garden. Their plans seemed to be a month later than mine. |> Example: I was planning to put in my tomato plants April 15 because the |> last frost is supposed to be that week. Their plans are for May 15. |> When is the last frost for the Wilmington, Delaware area? Can the plants |> be put out earlier if I warm the ground with plastic? If yes how much? |> |> Regards, |> Steve Be careful. frost dates for cities are earlier than for their suburbs. It depends a lot on whether you live on a high urbanized hill or whether you live in a rural low spot. The difference in frost dates between these two extremes is almost a month. The rural low area will have frost a lot later in the spring and earlier in the fall. (The dates are April 5 or so for the urban spot and May 5 or so for the rural spot) But in general, the May 15 date is closer to reality. In a flat sunny suburban backyard in your area, the mean last frost date is around the 25th of April but frost in the first ten days of May is not unusual. You don't get much by planting in cold soil before daily highs are in the low 70s and nighttime lows are in the low 50s; this happens around the 5th of May in Wilmington. If you are willing to risk loss from frost, May 1 is a good time to plant; if you just want thriving tomato plants with less work and are willing to wait a FEW DAYS for your crop, May 15 is the best time. Now if you use clear plastic mulch things change. clear plastic speeds daily growth a lot in chilly temperatures and if you can protect from frost, you can plant outside as early as April 10 or so IF you have a sunny period in the first 10 days of April and can get 8 inch soil temperatures up to 60 degrees (impossible before Mid May without clear plastic) before planting time. Plant roots will then grow well even when the tops are too cold to make much progress and the tops will be a little warmer because they will get infared radiation from the warmer soil in the evenings. This doess not help much against frost though; you might get a weeks worth of frost protection planted over clear plastic rather than bare soil. Another problem under clear plastic is WEEDS!! they thrive in the warm moist environment and are hard to get at. Whether you plant over clear plastic or not you will not get fruit set until you get a period where days are 80 or above and nights are in the upper 50s to mid 60s. The first such period in Wilmington is generally sometime in Mid May. I use clear plastic to speed up my corn, tomatoes, lettuce (yes lettuce) , peppers and melons and it does make a big difference byt it is more work. Actually (except in the Florida Panhandle) spring frost has never been much or a problem for me. I have much more trouble with spring winds, frostless spring chill, and early and mid spring soggy soil. That has been my experience in Central PA, Central New Jersey, and Maryland (the DC area) (Tallahassee Florida was different) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!wpi.WPI.EDU!clbriggs Wed Feb 23 23:59:24 EST 1994 Article: 26930 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!wpi.WPI.EDU!clbriggs From: clbriggs@wpi.WPI.EDU (Carol L. Briggs) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: roses along ornamental iron fence Date: 22 Feb 1994 17:32:37 GMT Organization: Worcester Polytechnic Institute Lines: 9 Sender: clbriggs@jake Message-ID: <2kdfjl$qli@bigboote.WPI.EDU> References: <2ju99s$otr@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: wpi.wpi.edu Keywords: Rose Bonica We have an inground pool. Along the fence I have 6 pink Meidland, Bonica Roses that I purchased from Jackson and Perkins 6 or 7 years ago. The are about 4 feet tall and loaded with pink roses from very early in the summer until frost. You would love them. Carol From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!157ochs Wed Feb 23 23:59:25 EST 1994 Article: 26931 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!wmichgw!157ochs From: 157ochs@gw.wmich.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Old Man Winter Returns!!! Message-ID: <1994Feb22.235340.15138@wmichgw> Date: 22 Feb 94 23:53:40 EST Organization: Western Michigan University Lines: 8 Well, let's hope the recent warm spell hasn't affected the plants too much. No trees or shrubs, except the Vernal Witchhazels, have come out here. Currently, it is snowing like crazy outside, and in the past couple of hours, we have received about 2 inches. I guess the Groundhog was right....spring was to be 6 weeks away. Jeff From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!bdani Wed Feb 23 23:59:26 EST 1994 Article: 26932 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!bdani From: bdani@netcom.com (Bill Daniels) Subject: Re: How To Kill Grass For Flower Bed Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] References: <2kaifn$dr1@crchh520.bnr.ca> Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 06:32:17 GMT Lines: 17 Patti Brown (pattyb@bnr.ca) wrote: : What's the best (read least-back-breaking!) way to kill : bermuda grass in order to clear the area for a flower bed? : The area is approx. 8 ft. x 8 ft. Please post here. My nurseryman suggested that I use a selective herbicide to rid my flowerbeds of the tenacious bermuda. My beds contain pink jasmine, roses and glads--he said spray judiciously around the bases of these and liberally on the grass itself, follow up with a second spray one week later. Voila! a cinch to pull out the browned bermuda remains. There are several herbicides available at various prices. Check your local nursery. -- ___________________________________________________ Bill Daniels bdani@netcom.com North Hills, CA [This space for rent] From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!bdani Wed Feb 23 23:59:26 EST 1994 Article: 26933 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!bdani From: bdani@netcom.com (Bill Daniels) Subject: Ants on our Artichokes Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 06:36:15 GMT Lines: 16 Does anyone have a quick and easy (and preferably non-toxic) method for keeping aphids off of artichoke plants? We've been using pyrethrum, but don't like spraying anymore poison than we have to. Plus, the stuff is *expensive*. Suggestions? Thanks Bill & Cheryl -- ___________________________________________________ Bill Daniels bdani@netcom.com North Hills, CA [This space for rent] From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!portal!cup.portal.com!mothra Wed Feb 23 23:59:27 EST 1994 Article: 26934 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!portal!cup.portal.com!mothra From: mothra@cup.portal.com (Elise - Swope) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: passiflora quadrangularis Message-ID: <104562@cup.portal.com> Date: Wed, 23 Feb 94 01:30:28 PST Organization: The Portal System (TM) Distribution: world Lines: 7 Does anyone have any experience growing passiflora quadrangularis? I just recieved some seeds from Thompson & Morgan. The catalog description says that the vine reaches 50 feet and produces 8 lb. fruit. I have several other types of passion fruit in my yard, and all are vigorous growers (but none as big as this). My question: what type of support do they need? I have 2 vines which have taken down branches of Koa trees (as sturdy a tree as you're likely to find), what type of support is required for quadrangularis? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!csn!krtbrown Wed Feb 23 23:59:28 EST 1994 Article: 26935 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!csn!krtbrown From: krtbrown@csn.org (Kurt Brown) Subject: Re: Elk/deer resistant plant Message-ID: Sender: news@csn.org (The Daily Planet) Nntp-Posting-Host: teal.csn.org Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc. X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <1994Feb21.151832.95565@yuma> Distribution: usa Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 13:26:00 GMT Lines: 31 antonius kusuma (kusuma@CS.ColoState.EDU) wrote: : Hi! : First of all, my apology if this topic has been discussed in the : FAQ, but I looked and looked and couldn't find the answer to my : question. : A friend of mine just moved to a new house up in the mountains : of Colorado where the elks and the deer still roam free. He's : thinking about building a small flower garden in his backyard : this spring, preferable one that will provide him with cut flowers : all season long, but he's afraid the elks and the deer would just : make a salad bar out of his garden. : Does anybody in the netland have any suggestion as what to plant : that those animals won't touch, other than daffodils (too late : to plant them anyway) and petunias? : I await your suggestions. Thanks! Tony, I too live in the Colorado Rockies. I plan a two tiered aproach. First, I'm going to plant some deer snacking plants around the perimeter of my property. Second, I'm go to plant a hedge of plants that deer don't like. My vegi garden will be surounded be a TALL fence; deer can jump. I have the Sunset Western Garden Book. Inside there is an extensive listing of "deer-proof" plants. Several varieties will grow up hear in the cold. Good Luck! Kurt Brown krtbrown@csn.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!csn!krtbrown Wed Feb 23 23:59:29 EST 1994 Article: 26936 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!ub!csn!krtbrown From: krtbrown@csn.org (Kurt Brown) Subject: Re: HID lighting ??s Message-ID: Sender: news@csn.org (The Daily Planet) Nntp-Posting-Host: teal.csn.org Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc. X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <0097A74A.07AFF6A0@vms.csd.mu.edu> Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 13:35:05 GMT Lines: 23 25u7gardinie@vms.csd.mu.edu wrote: : Well actually it is only a single question, but anyway. I have been thinking : lately of switching my lighting from flourescent to an HID system. Since I : lately of switching my lighting from flourescent to an HID system. Recently : it occured to me that there could be a problem with that. The reason for my : concern is that I keep my plants in my bedroom/work studio and as such I : spend a good deal of time in the same place as them during the course of the : day. Is there a problem with UV rays or anything else I should be concerned : with in light of such exposure? Any help you can offer me would be greatly : appreciated. E-mail or post whichever you prefer. Thanks terribly much. HID light bulbs are constructed as a bulb within a bulb. The inner bulb is where the electrical discharge takes place. A large amount of UV is emmited at this point (at least with Metal Halide lamps). Around the inner bulb is a glass envelope. I call this the outer bulb. The outer bulb, being made of glass, blocks the UV radiation. The light at this point is quite safe. The replacement bulbs that I have purchased have a warning about high levels of UV should the outer bulb break. Hope this helps with your decision. Regards, Kurt Brown krtbrown@csn.or From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bmerha64.bnr.ca!markham Wed Feb 23 23:59:30 EST 1994 Article: 26937 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bmerha64.bnr.ca!markham From: markham@brtph678.bnr.ca () Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: How to prepare for planting grass in spring? Date: 23 Feb 1994 14:01:45 GMT Organization: Bell-Northern Research Ltd., Ottawa Lines: 24 Message-ID: <2kfnk9$2nu@bmerha64.bnr.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: brtph678.bnr.ca We moved into our house last April and had very poor grass all summer. When autumn came around, we decided to have a landscaper come out, re-grade our yard (we had some problems with standing water), and then plant fescue. When he came out, he said that we had such a bad crabgrass problem, that putting the money into fescue without first killing the crabgrass would be a waste of money. Instead, he convinced us to let him re-grade the yard and then I put out annual rye-grass for the winter (which looked GREAT all winter long). Well, it's getting towards spring and I was wondering when we should prepare for killing all the new crabgrass (i.e. when does it start coming up and when is the best time to kill the majority of it). Also, should we just plan on putting down cheap fescue for the summer (and just water it semi-regularly to keep it barely alive) and then have the yard professionally seeded next fall? That sounds fine to us, but are there any better suggestions? Oh, I am located in Cary, North Carolina (just outside of Raleigh). -- Andy Markham markham@bnr.ca BNR, Inc. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb Wed Feb 23 23:59:30 EST 1994 Article: 26938 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb From: u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Neophyte tomato question Date: 23 Feb 1994 14:38:08 GMT Organization: USACE Waterways Experiment Station Lines: 17 Message-ID: <2kfpog$8a@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> References: <1994Feb20.114147.23220@cobra.uni.edu> <2k8vhv$6tq@apollo.it.luc.edu> <761876048snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <1994Feb22.135835.23375@cobra.uni.edu> <761962252snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: apollo.wes.army.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Alright, Kay (and any other tomato gurus out there) - are tomatoes a particularly heavy consumer of nitrogen? I ask this because last year, I had one bed that I worked up, added compost, other organic matter, light fertilizer, etrc., before I planted. I had some plants left over (Better Boys), so I just stuck in some poor soil where I had planted black-eyed peas the previous year, with no soil preparation other than some hand turning. Guess which ones were the better producers? Yep, the "leftovers". Peas are nitrogen fixers, I'm told, so I wonder if it was the nitrogen in the old pea-patch. Maybe??? -- Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil Computer Scientist Information Technology Laboratory U.S. Army Corps of Engineers "select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb Wed Feb 23 23:59:38 EST 1994 Article: 26939 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!nntp.wes.army.mil!u4imcehb From: u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil (Ernest Boswell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Date: 23 Feb 1994 14:42:00 GMT Organization: USACE Waterways Experiment Station Lines: 15 Message-ID: <2kfpvo$8a@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> References: <9402222303.AA29704@im8> NNTP-Posting-Host: apollo.wes.army.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] BTW - when I was a child, my father (cruel man that he was) told me that bumblebees can't sting. I have regarded him with some degree of suspicion since shortly after that statement :-) . Several years ago, he was zapped by one of these in his garden - I asked him how, and he said that he grabbed one to prove they wouldn't sting! Now he says only the ones with white faces will sting. Or maybe won't sting. Damned if I'm going to hang around to find out. -- Harry Boswell u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil Computer Scientist Information Technology Laboratory U.S. Army Corps of Engineers "select std_disclaimer from opinions_not_shared_by_employer" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk Wed Feb 23 23:59:39 EST 1994 Article: 26940 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.larc.nasa.gov!venus.larc.nasa.gov!mbk From: mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov (Melissa B. Koch) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Damping off? Date: 23 Feb 1994 15:04:18 GMT Organization: NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton, VA USA Lines: 13 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kfr9i$77k@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: venus.larc.nasa.gov I know this was discussed recently, but I didn't save the information because my seedlings hadn't flopped over at the time :} I used new APS flats and the sterile germinating mix from Gardner's Supply. I thought everything was sterile that I used, but now my violas and forget-me-nots are starting to flop over. The soil always seems really wet; is it possible that I packed the germinating mix in too tightly? What can I do to save the ones that are still standing? Thanks Melissa From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!an216 Wed Feb 23 23:59:40 EST 1994 Article: 26941 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!an216 From: an216@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Georgen Coyle) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: birdfeeder waste on the compost pile? Date: 23 Feb 1994 17:20:47 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 21 Message-ID: <2kg39f$8ve@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kanga.ins.cwru.edu With the snow melted (however temporary), I am faced with the annual task of cleaning up the seed waste from under the feeders. I have several feeders just outside my kitchen windows, allowing my house to be graced with the living art of cardinals, house finches, and even red-bellied woodpeckers all winter. But the mess! I was going to dump the seed waste on the compost pile, but read recently that birdseed is treated with chemicals to inhibit growth -- I suppose so it won't sprout before reaching the store -- and that the seed waste will create compost that will inhibit growth! Not exactly what we want! Can anyone out there validate this? Will the chemical treatment of birdseed really remain active for that long and not be weathered off? I'd hate to have to put all this material into the public landfill, so maybe the best thing would be to bag it and use it for mulch. -- Georgen Coyle * If thou wouldst into the infinite stride, Wooster, Ohio * Explore the finite on every side. * -- Goethe From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.mentorg.com!hpbab33.mentorg.com!rreid!rreid Wed Feb 23 23:59:41 EST 1994 Article: 26942 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.mentorg.com!hpbab33.mentorg.com!rreid!rreid From: rreid@rreid.mentorg.com (Richard Reid) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: vermiculture Date: 23 Feb 1994 17:04:31 GMT Organization: mentor Lines: 21 Sender: rreid@rreid (Richard Reid) Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kg2av$8vt@hpbab.wv.mentorg.com> References: <9402222303.AA29709@im8> NNTP-Posting-Host: rreid.wv.mentorg.com I started a Worm Box last August and just did my second turn in replacing the bedding. I got the worms by calling the local Recycling Organization-- who in turn gave me the name of a local worm grower. We then set up a rondavous. I know he will also ship em, or so he said. Richard Matson VermaCast Products 103 N.W. Pittock AVE Portland, Oregon 97210 (503) 226 - 0816 As I remember they where about 12 dollars per pound. -- Rick Reid rreid@wv.mentorg.com -- Mentor Graphics Corporation "I belong to no organized party. I'm a democrat." - Will Rogers From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!oac4.hsc.uth.tmc.edu!NewsWatcher!user Wed Feb 23 23:59:42 EST 1994 Article: 26943 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!oac4.hsc.uth.tmc.edu!NewsWatcher!user From: cyn@odin.mda.uth.tmc.edu (Cyndi Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Neophyte tomato question Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 23 Feb 1994 17:22:15 GMT Organization: MD Anderson Cancer Center Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <1994Feb20.114147.23220@cobra.uni.edu> <2k8vhv$6tq@apollo.it.luc.edu> <761876048snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <1994Feb22.135835.23375@cobra.uni.edu> <761962252snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: yggdrasil.mda.uth.tmc.edu Now I'm really confused! I was given some "Patio" tomato plants last August. They grew to about 2 ft tall and produced (small yields) from late Sept. to now (one still has a green tomato and others have blooms). I realize that these were specially treated (in pots that I brought inside for each freeze), but would these be determionate or indeterminate? (i.e. they are bushes that produce continually...) -- Cyndi Smith Computer Programmer Department of Biomathematics M. D. Anderson Cancer Center Phone: 713/794-4938 Fax: 713/792-4262 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!ogicse!cse.ogi.edu!fanty Wed Feb 23 23:59:43 EST 1994 Article: 26944 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!ogicse!cse.ogi.edu!fanty From: fanty@cse.ogi.edu (Mark Fanty) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advi Message-ID: <66368@ogicse.ogi.edu> Date: 23 Feb 94 17:37:47 GMT Article-I.D.: ogicse.66368 References: <11FEB94.22171881@shrsys.hslc.org> <1453300474@cdp> Sender: news@ogicse.ogi.edu Distribution: world Organization: Oregon Graduate Institute (formerly OGC), Beaverton, OR Lines: 27 Last year I planted a shrub rose called Sally Holmes, which is supposed to be a vigorous grower. The soil was very heavy Western Oregon clay which had never been improved. I dug a 2' deep by 2' round hole and put in a fair amount of peat moss -- several shovels full. I then planted according to instructions which had me water the soil well to get rid of air pockets. Well, then I decided to move it over a foot, so I ended up working the wet clay a fair amount. The shrub sprouted about 2 inches and then did nothing for a month or more. Mid summer, I dug it up and the roots were tightly packed with very dense clay. This time I put in equal peat moss and clay and mixed it well. It started growing almost immediately and did well for the rest of the season. It looks very healty now, with sprouts all over the branches. As I see it, the lessons are: 1) When dealing with clay, use *lots* of organic matter. 2) Don't compact wet clay unless you are doing pottery. -- Mark Fanty Center for Spoken Language Understanding fanty@cse.ogi.edu Oregon Graduate Institute of Science & Technology (503) 690-1030 PO Box 91000 fax (503) 690-1334 Portland, OR 97291-1000 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!an216 Wed Feb 23 23:59:45 EST 1994 Article: 26945 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!an216 From: an216@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Georgen Coyle) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house Subject: Re: Birdhouse source, Purple Martins Date: 23 Feb 1994 17:48:50 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 25 Message-ID: <2kg4u2$at0@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kanga.ins.cwru.edu Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:26945 misc.consumers.house:48301 Purple Martin houses are expensive to buy, but cheap to build. A good plan is available from: Superintendent of Documents U.S. Government Printing Office Washington D.C. 20402 Send $2.50 and ask for "Homes for birds" conservation bulletin #14, Stock#024-010-00524-4. The metal ones you buy are lighter, but also hotter for the birds. Purple martins are very picky about about the size of their rooms, the doorholes, and the cleanliness of their house. To prevent starlings from moving in, some people keep the holes plugged up until they see the the martins returning, but that probably only works with established colonies. Bats are great mosquito eaters (a single bat eats 600 mosquitoes an hour), and they're being killed and crowed into endangered numbers. (read "crowded" for "crowed" please) So a bathouse would be good to put up too! be well, georgen -- Georgen Coyle * If thou wouldst into the infinite stride, Wooster, Ohio * Explore the finite on every side. * -- Goethe From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!ncar!csn!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!hpwrce!gene Wed Feb 23 23:59:45 EST 1994 Article: 26946 of rec.gardens From: gene@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com (Gene Bradley) Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 15:14:35 GMT Subject: Genetic Dwarf Fruit Trees Source Message-ID: <660007@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> Organization: lookin fur coool tone Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!ncar!csn!col.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!hplextra!hpwrce!gene Newsgroups: rec.gardens Lines: 9 Hi, I need a mail order source for Genetic Dwarf cherries,peaches and nectarines. The nurseries here in sacto dont carry them. A address or phone ### would be great thanks gene.bradley From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph844!yourch Wed Feb 23 23:59:46 EST 1994 Article: 26947 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!nrtpa22!brtph560!brtph844!yourch From: yourch@brtph844.bnr.ca (James Yourch P265) Subject: Re: How to prepare for planting grass in spring Sender: news@brtph560.bnr.ca (Usenet News) Message-ID: <1994Feb23.172250.16861@brtph560.bnr.ca> Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 17:22:50 GMT Distribution: triangle Organization: Bell-Northern Research, BNR-RTP Lines: 82 Andy Markham writes: >We moved into our house last April and had very poor grass all >summer. When autumn came around, we decided to have a landscaper >come out, re-grade our yard (we had some problems with standing >water), and then plant fescue. When he came out, he said that >we had such a bad crabgrass problem, that putting the money into >fescue without first killing the crabgrass would be a waste of >money. Instead, he convinced us to let him re-grade the yard >and then I put out annual rye-grass for the winter (which looked >GREAT all winter long). >Well, it's getting towards spring and I was wondering when we >should prepare for killing all the new crabgrass (i.e. when does >it start coming up and when is the best time to kill the majority >of it). Also, should we just plan on putting down cheap fescue >for the summer (and just water it semi-regularly to keep it barely >alive) and then have the yard professionally seeded next fall? >That sounds fine to us, but are there any better suggestions? Andy, I would say that your landscaper's advice has put you between a rock and a hard place. You should have gone ahead and sown fescue last fall. Crabgrass is a warm-season annual and dies in the fall anyway, but before it dies it spreads seeds which germinate in spring. Crabgrass can be controlled with pre-emergent herbicides which keeps the seeds from germinating. However, the herbicides will also prevent any fescue seed you sow this spring from germinating also. Your annual ryegrass is going to die soon and I think you would like to have something to take the place of it ( preferably not crabgrass ). My recomendations: Now: Sow fescue at 5-10 lbs per 1000 sq ft and do not apply pre-emergent herbicide. Spread complete fertilizer ( i.e. supplies Nitrogen ( N ), Phosphorous ( P ), and Potassium ( K ) ) at 1-2 lbs of Nitrogen per 1000 sq ft. Keep moist during germination period. Late spring/summer: Get a rain gauge so you can measure rainfall and get a feel of how fast your sprinkler delivers water. Water so that the grass gets about 1" of water per week, including rainfall. Early September: Spread complete fertilizer at 1-2 lbs of Nitrogen per 1000 sq ft. Keep up weekly watering if needed. Mid September - Mid October: Aerate using core aerator. Sow fescue at 5-10 lbs per 1000 sq ft. Keep moist during germination period. Late November: Spread complete fertilizer at 1-2 lbs of Nitrogen per 1000 sq ft. Next Mid-February: Spread complete fertilizer at 1-2 lbs of Nitrogen per 1000 sq ft. Apply pre-emergent herbicide to prevent the crabgrass seeds from sprouting. Once the grass is thick and established I find the pre-emergent herbicide of no value. After that you just keep on repeating this cycle. Hints: Water often and lightly after sowing new seed. After seedlings are more mature water deeply and seldomly to encourage deep rooting. Cut fescue high ( 3" ) and try to avoid cutting off more than 1/3 of the blade. This will encourage deep rooting, reduce weed germination, and minimize stress. Get a soil test to determine soil pH. In the absence of a test, spread 50lbs of lime per 1000 sq ft. Timing of lime application is not that important. Do not fertilize fescue during late spring or summer. If you can mow often, you do not need to bag your clippings. Left on the lawn, they will feed your grass and slowly improve soil conditions. Good Luck, Jay From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!whk.math.uga.edu!user Wed Feb 23 23:59:47 EST 1994 Article: 26948 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!whk.math.uga.edu!user From: will@joe.math.uga.edu (Will Kazez) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Turning clay into soil Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 23 Feb 1994 18:08:59 GMT Organization: University of Georgia Lines: 59 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: whk.math.uga.edu In case it is useful to anyone I thought I'd pass along my experience in creating a yard out of clay and rock that can now be used to grow grass. Our backyard started off as a mixture of hard Georgia red clay and granite that had been beautifully smoothed out by an enormous bulldozer. On a wet day you could dent the surface with a full swing of a matic, but not much. After a few years of wasting grass seed, fertilizer, and water on it, I decided to get serious. 1) I borrowed the largest tractor I could and attached a subsoiler to it. This is, roughly, a 2 foot long piece of steel that you stick into the ground as deep as you can and pull it forward with the tractor. It will break up the soil, bring rocks to the surface, and in general leave huge ruts all over your yard. (If you have smaller problems you might skip the tractor and use a roto-tiller). 2) Next I picked up all the rocks I could see. I got rid of a total of about 10 cubic yards of rocks by a combination of building walls, giving them to neighbors and dumping them in vacant lots (I consider the latter to be a primitive form of recycling). Repeat steps 1 and 2 a few times till you got the bulk of the rocks out of the way. 3) Next I borrowed the largest truck I could and hauled in 70 cubic yards of rotten bark. This is a lot of bark if you have to pay for it, so the trick is to locate a cheap source of organic matter in your area. There are lots of sources, for instance in communities that collect leaves, you may be able to have them dump them in your yard, but you'll need to do some searching. I paid a total of $105 for the bark and they loaded it for me. It is almost impossible to get too much organic material. 70 cubic yards is only a few inches deep when spread out over a 7000 square foot backyard. 4) Add seasoning and mix. I put a few hundred pounds of high nitrogen fertilzer on the yard (to make up for the very low and potentially nitrogen absorbing bark) and then plowed up the yard to get the organic material thoroughly mixed in. Though I had broken up the top foot and a half of soil to improve drainage, I only mixed the organic material into the top half of that. 5) Depending on how you completed Step 4) you'll need to smooth out the mess you've created. I put a few logs on a piece of wire mesh and dragged that around with the tractor. At this point you are where most people start when they want to start a lawn. I found all of the usual instructions for starting a lawn actually work when you start off with soil! These are, briefly, rake off surface debris, spread seed, put on light cover of straw, and water, water, water. Further thoughts near the subject: While preparing the lawn I also prepared a few planting areas. I got over 10 truckloads of free mulch delivered to my house by stopping by the side of the road one day when I saw a utility crew grinding up an assortment of treelimbs, vines, etc. Those guys fill about 3 trucks a day and appreciate a convenient place to dump it. Just a word of warning though, this stuff is green and not too attractive (you'll never confuse it with Pine Bark Nuggets), but it is available in the quantity you need (I like 6 - 8 inches deep) at the right price. It turns grey quickly and can be covered with a thin layer of something better looking. In a few years it'll turn into beautiful dark dirt. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Wed Feb 23 23:59:48 EST 1994 Article: 26949 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: Damping off? Distribution: world References: <2kfr9i$77k@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 28 Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 16:58:56 +0000 Message-ID: <762022736snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article <2kfr9i$77k@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> mbk@venus.larc.nasa.gov "Melissa B. Koch" writes: > I know this was discussed recently, but I didn't save the > information because my seedlings hadn't flopped over at the > time :} I used new APS flats and the sterile germinating > mix from Gardner's Supply. I thought everything was sterile > that I used, but now my violas and forget-me-nots are starting > to flop over. The soil always seems really wet; is it possible > that I packed the germinating mix in too tightly? What can > I do to save the ones that are still standing? Thanks > > Melissa It's possible that you did and maybe even over-watered it in the first place. Depending on how far advanced the problem is it may be worth trying a copper-based fungicide and *certainly* worth checking that you are providing adequate ventilation. I hate to be a prophet of doom but if you really *have* got a damping-off problem and it's established, the chances are you may need to re-sow. As a general tip to anyone sowing seeds, use mains water, sterile growing media and trays, fresh compost and a copper-based fungicide whenever you water. Hope that helps, -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Wed Feb 23 23:59:49 EST 1994 Article: 26950 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!demon!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: Neophyte tomato question References: <1994Feb20.114147.23220@cobra.uni.edu> <2k8vhv$6tq@apollo.it.luc.edu> <761876048snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <1994Feb22.135835.23375@cobra.uni.edu> <761962252snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> <2kfpog$8a@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 39 Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 17:16:50 +0000 Message-ID: <762023810snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk In article <2kfpog$8a@Joanna.Wes.Army.Mil> u4imcehb@apollo.wes.army.mil "Ernest Boswell" writes: > Alright, Kay (and any other tomato gurus out there) - are tomatoes a > particularly heavy consumer of nitrogen? I ask this because last year, > I had one bed that I worked up, added compost, other organic matter, > light fertilizer, etrc., before I planted. I had some plants left over > (Better Boys), so I just stuck in some poor soil where I had planted > black-eyed peas the previous year, with no soil preparation other than > some hand turning. Guess which ones were the better producers? Yep, the > "leftovers". Peas are nitrogen fixers, I'm told, so I wonder if it was > the nitrogen in the old pea-patch. Maybe??? > > -- I *certainly* don't claim to be a tomato guru but I hope the following helps. The advice always given to tomato growers is to *avoid* excessive nitrogen. Certainly legumes are nitrogen fixers so your old bed would have had some nitrogen in it which does, on the face of it, raise a problem. If you apply excessive amounts of nitrogen to tomatoes (and this is only experience and tips I've learned, not hard science, I'm afraid) what happens is that you get excessive sappy growth, limited flowering and poor fruiting as a consequence. So why did the tomatoes in the unprepared bed do better than the one you'd worked on? I'm tempted to say Murphy's Law, but you obviously want a better answer than that :-). Sticking my neck out (and without a soil analysis and a time machine I don't see how a definitive answer can be found) I'd guess that the peas had left just the right amount of nitrogen to boost the tomatoes' early growth, but not enough to cause problems later in the season. It's probable that the residual nitrogen would have been used-up early on in the season so that it wasn't there in damaging proportions later. As to why the tomatoes went on to do better than the lovingly tended ones well...stress *can* make some plants perform well, but I'd guess (and it's only a guess) that if the cultural conditions really *were* identical aside of that, then the soil isn't as bad as you fear. That's my 2p's worth! -- Gary Cooper From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!oac4.hsc.uth.tmc.edu!NewsWatcher!user Wed Feb 23 23:59:50 EST 1994 Article: 26951 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!oac4.hsc.uth.tmc.edu!NewsWatcher!user From: cyn@odin.mda.uth.tmc.edu (Cyndi Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Vine for gate?? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 23 Feb 1994 18:00:05 GMT Organization: MD Anderson Cancer Center Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: yggdrasil.mda.uth.tmc.edu I have a wrought iron gate across my driveway. I would like to make it prettier by covering it with some sort of vine - preferably an evergreen or semi-evergreen (remember, it usually only freezes a few times a year in Houston) and with flowers at least some of the time. As I see it, these are the considerations: 1) zone 8/9, <20 freezing days per year (usually) 2) humid, hot summers (often little or no rain with temps >95F in July - August) 3) southern exposure - LOTS of afternoon sun, especially in summer 4) evergreen or semi-evergreen (hardy perennial?) 5) the vine will be growing from a patch of ground at the pivot point of the gate so will need to be able to take the strain, but not be so heavy as to weigh down the gate 6) pretty flowers would be nice Am I wishing for a star, or does someone out there have a suggestion for me? Thanks! -- Cyndi Smith Computer Programmer Department of Biomathematics M. D. Anderson Cancer Center Phone: 713/794-4938 Fax: 713/792-4262 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!chip.cba.ufl.edu!NSX Wed Feb 23 23:59:51 EST 1994 Article: 26952 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!chip.cba.ufl.edu!NSX From: NSX@chip.cba.ufl.edu (Mark Sterling) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Red Maple and roots Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 19:37:16 GMT Organization: College of Business, University of Florida Lines: 12 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.227.36.50 Last Sunday I dug up a 5ft Red Maple from a neighboring vacant lot in hopes of transplanting it to my yard. The only problem was it had no roots. It was still connected by an 2" in dia. "umbilical cord" to the mother tree 6ft away. Other than that, it had no roots of its own or any roots coming off the "cord". Is there anything I can do to save the tree? Thanks for any help, Mark Sterling NSX@chip.cba.ufl.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.cs.brandeis.edu!binah.cc.brandeis.edu!REYNOLD Wed Feb 23 23:59:52 EST 1994 Article: 26953 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.cs.brandeis.edu!binah.cc.brandeis.edu!REYNOLD From: reynold@binah.cc.brandeis.edu ("Susan Reynold (w/out the s)") Subject: Re: Signs of spring Message-ID: <1994Feb23.191048.26495@news.cs.brandeis.edu> Sender: news@news.cs.brandeis.edu (USENET News System) Reply-To: reynold@binah.cc.brandeis.edu Organization: Brandeis University References: <1994Feb14.231456.11664@nicmad.uucp> <1994Feb17.191050.14976@gw.wmich.edu> ,<1994Feb21.200749.15084@wmichgw> Distribution: na Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 19:10:48 GMT Lines: 8 This is Boston and we're in the middle of another storm. (We get to go home from work early :-) Today I noticed about 6 or 7 robins frolicking outside. I've never seen them this early and it's been so bitterly cold (except this last weekend). They were nice and fat too. Susan From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn Wed Feb 23 23:59:54 EST 1994 Article: 26954 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn From: dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Camelias turning yellow/brown! Date: 23 Feb 1994 20:08:37 GMT Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences Lines: 31 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kgd45$n16@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: pangea.stanford.edu Hi, folks, I have a problem. My (well, okay, my landlord's) camelias are turning yellow and brown. This isn't chlorosis (I don't think, anyway), because the veins in the leaves didn't stay green longer than the rest of the leaves. The leaves are turning yellow all over, sort of in blotches, but really fairly uniformly. Lately, there are little round brown spots appearing (around 3 or 4 mm across), and the back of the leaves look sprinkled with brown specks, which don't rub off. The situation: Palo Alto (San Francisco Peninsula). The shrubs are located in about the worst place they could be (like I said, they are my landlord's): full sun against the south side of the house, right against the concrete foundation. I have brainstormed and come up with all the following possible problems: Chlorosis Fertilizer deficiency Too much water (they are right under the overhang of the roof and the soil is poorly drained) Herbicide drift? What do you folks think? If it is a fertilizer deficiency, should I fertilize now, even though they haven't bloomed yet? Anything else I could try to give them some relief? They are looking pretty desperate.... Moving them isn't an option, since (as I think I mentioned) they aren't mine. Thanks. Dawn From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!news.clark.net!not-for-mail Wed Feb 23 23:59:55 EST 1994 Article: 26955 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!news.clark.net!not-for-mail From: jcp@clark.net (Jody C. Patilla) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Date: 23 Feb 1994 16:03:13 -0500 Organization: Fluffy Otter Kindercare Lines: 25 Message-ID: <2kggah$hgl@explorer.clark.net> References: <9402222303.AA29704@im8> <2kfpvo$8a@joanna.wes.army.mil> NNTP-Posting-Host: clark.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In article <2kfpvo$8a@joanna.wes.army.mil>, Ernest Boswell wrote: >BTW - when I was a child, my father (cruel man that he was) told me that >bumblebees can't sting. I have regarded him with some degree of suspicion >since shortly after that statement :-) . Several years ago, he was zapped >by one of these in his garden - I asked him how, and he said that he grabbed >one to prove they wouldn't sting! Now he says only the ones with white faces >will sting. Or maybe won't sting. Damned if I'm going to hang around to >find out. Carpenter bees look very much like bumble bees but are even less aggressive and almost never sting. They drill holes in dead wood (like your fences, your eaves, etc....), one bee per hole. They are not very bright at all and frequently fly into me by accident when I am working in the garden (weird to have these fat, slow bees bounce off one's head). The only time I have ever been stung by one was when I found out - too late - that one had drilled a hole right into the handle of my spading fork (!). Neither one of us was made very happy by the discovery. -- jcpatilla jcp@clark.net "Fling your beavers aloft!" From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!w6yx.stanford.edu!alpha Wed Feb 23 23:59:56 EST 1994 Article: 26956 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!w6yx.stanford.edu!alpha From: alpha@w6yx.stanford.edu (Alpha) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house Subject: Quick, Robin, to the Bathouse! WAS: Re: Birdhouse source, Purple Martins Date: 23 Feb 1994 21:32:18 GMT Organization: Stanford Amateur Radio Club Lines: 25 Message-ID: <2kgi12$ofa@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> References: <2kg4u2$at0@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: w6yx.stanford.edu Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:26956 misc.consumers.house:48333 In article <2kg4u2$at0@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> an216@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Georgen Coyle) writes: >Bats are great mosquito eaters (a single bat eats 600 mosquitoes >an hour), and they're being killed and crowed into endangered >numbers. (read "crowded" for "crowed" please) So a bathouse would >be good to put up too! > OK, Now I have a question. I live in Palo Alto, CA--a pretty densely populated suburban area. I've seen bathouses for sale at a "Scientific Store" in town-- I'm wondering if I would have any hope of attracting bats to this area! Would they tolerate living in the 'burbs? Also, I've heard that you need to "seed" a bathouse with some bat guano to attract the bats. Where does one get this? (And I'm not an adventurous outdoor caving-type person, so don't suggest that I go collect it myself!) alpha It's Spring! -- Alpha/Spasmodic enthusiasm, sense of infallibility, brusque, neurotic, destruc- tive, unbridled free expression, perverse self-will, hell-bent, compulsive, impulsive, suspicious, hyper-vigilant, reactionary, violent, without remorse, immature, insolent, intolerant, uncompromising--In other words, LUCID!!! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!news.bu.edu!att-in!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsb.cb.att.com!colten Wed Feb 23 23:59:57 EST 1994 Article: 26957 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!news.bu.edu!att-in!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsb.cb.att.com!colten From: colten@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (marc.colten) Subject: Using yard waste Message-ID: Keywords: mulch, leaves, rotted firewood Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 21:33:57 GMT Lines: 18 I am gearing up to try to put a garden in my yard this year. I have been busy cleaning up 2 years of yard waste with my armored battalion of machines (chipper/shredder, leaf blower, mulching lawn mower), and I could use some advice on what to do with the waste. I have about a dozen BIG bags of shredded leaves with no end in sight. What is the best use of this stuff? Can I plow it under into clay and dirt or should it be used on top? Is it usable at all? The previous owners of the house left two huge piles of wood, but when I seperated it out, about half was rotted and falling apart. Can this be used in the same manner? thanks for any advice. marc colten From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!naples.gain.com!maxx Wed Feb 23 23:59:58 EST 1994 Article: 26958 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!naples.gain.com!maxx From: maxx@Gain.COM (Maxxwell M. Cassidy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Date: 23 Feb 1994 22:25:08 GMT Organization: Gain Technology, Inc. Lines: 49 Message-ID: <2kgl45$4cg@naples.gain.com> References: <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: santaclara.gain.com In article <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> wentwort@tiac.net (Dick Wentworth) writes: >I've recently moved to a new house and the garden bed has >a massive bumblebee nest under it. These bees attack me >and are quite unfriendly. How can I get rid of them >without ruining the garden soil itself? They're sleeping now >under two feet of snow, but that won't last forever :-) > >Thank you >Cassie Wentworth Dear Cassie: I'd use lye. Now lye is a very caustic substance, and I know that it is dangerous, but it has one really cool property -- in a very short time, it absorbs CO2 from the air, and becomes baking soda. So put on your rubber gloves, mix some lye granules with tepid water in a steel or "tin" can (not aluminum), and pour the stuff down the hole. Kills 'em dead, and it doesn't long-term poison your garden. In a few days, pour a whole lot of vinegar down the hole to re-adjust the pH. This will probably kill some things near the hole, but once you have the pH back, the whole bed will be totally non- toxic, and absolutely child and pet safe. Try to say that about petrochemical insecticides! This works on Hornets, Wasps, Fire Ants, a whole bunch of social insects. Got to kill the queen and leave the nest uninhabitable. Individuals who get away will build a nest elsewhere. If lye is just too much for you, try really, really hot grease on a dry day. Use lots of it, and pour it in in a single stream, so you wont just clog and let them dig out later. Got to get the hot grease all the way down into the egg chambers. Maxx. -- - Taos Mountain Man * /\____ * - - No Rose w/o Thorns * _/ \______ * - - No Profit w/o Work _____/ \ - - No Love w/o Trust ____/ \___- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Wed Feb 23 23:59:59 EST 1994 Article: 26959 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Date: 23 Feb 1994 23:30:22 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 33 Message-ID: <2kgoue$dss@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <9402222303.AA29704@im8> <2kfpvo$8a@joanna.wes.army.mil> <2kggah$hgl@explorer.clark.net> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: kanga.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, jcp@clark.net (Jody C. Patilla) says: >In article <2kfpvo$8a@joanna.wes.army.mil>, >Ernest Boswell wrote: >>BTW - when I was a child, my father (cruel man that he was) told me that >>bumblebees can't sting. I have regarded him with some degree of suspicion >>since shortly after that statement :-) . Several years ago, he was zapped >>by one of these in his garden - I asked him how, and he said that he grabbed >>one to prove they wouldn't sting! Now he says only the ones with white faces >>will sting. Those white-faced bumblebees sound like white-faced hornets, some of the nastiest, most painful hymenopterans there are. Where did he get this "knowledge" of bees? Bumblebees may be hard to provoke, but they all pack a real wallop if you push them too far. Even the cute wild green bees we have around here can deliver a potent zap--and I'm not talking about sweat bees. BTW, a smoldering rag stuffed in their hole then covered quickly with earth might suffocate them. I use commercial wasp and hornet spray, but I need to get rid of them from a distance; I react badly to bee stings and so does my son. J. Del Col ( who keeps an epi-ject kit nearby when gardening) -- Jeff Del Col * "Sleeplessness is like metaphysics. A-B College * Be there." Philippi, WV * * ----Charles Simic---- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!uhog.mit.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!das-news.harvard.edu!das!hartman Wed Feb 23 23:59:59 EST 1994 Article: 26960 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sgiblab!uhog.mit.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!das-news.harvard.edu!das!hartman From: hartman@das.harvard.edu (Anthony Hartman) Subject: pruning hibiscus Message-ID: Sender: usenet@das.harvard.edu Organization: Aiken Computation Lab, Harvard University Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 23:12:21 GMT Lines: 9 Are there any tricks to pruning a Rose of Sharon, hibiscus syriacus? I have one that is nearing 6 feet, but last year was rather spindly and the branches tended spread outwards. I still want to keep its natural shape, but control it. I haven't found much on it in the books I have. -- Tony Hartman hartman@harvard.harvard.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Thu Feb 24 00:00:01 EST 1994 Article: 26961 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!cdsmail!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Slow release Nitrogen Message-ID: <1994Feb23.132808.27469@walter.cray.com> Lines: 31 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. Date: 23 Feb 94 13:28:08 CST The main problem I have maintaining fertility in my veggie garden is that I have to add nitrogen fairly often. Phosphorous and Potassium can all be applied at planting time (with maybe one side dressing of K six weeks later) but nitrogen leaches badly and I have to apply it little and often. Why don't garden sypply houses sell fertilizer that is MOSTLY slow release nitrogen. I have looked at the popular lawn fertilizers and they are about half quick release nitrogen or more; much too much if I want the slow release half to supply my plnats needs for two or three months. Of course there is the alternative of composted manure and it's a pretty good one , but you have to be careful even with composted manure in warm wet weather and not put too much down at once. Anyway I ask again to the net; why aren't fertilizers that are MOSTLY slow release nitrogen readily available? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins Thu Feb 24 00:00:03 EST 1994 Article: 26962 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!ghankins From: ghankins@delphi.com (Greg Hankins) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Growing Bay Laurel Indoors Date: 24 Feb 1994 00:54:10 GMT Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation Lines: 17 Message-ID: <9402231952591.ghankins.DLITE@delphi.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1b.delphi.com I just acquired 18-inch tall bay laurel tree with no branching as yet. I assume it is a bit too cool in the winters here in Middle Tennessee to grow it outside, so I hope to make it an inside plant. I'd appreciate any advice on how to care for it -- particularly, at what size to top it in order to encourage branching. The herbalist from whom I purchased said she grows them to six feet before topping, in order to createa topiary-like ball at the top. I'd rather have a more natural-looking tree, I think. Thanks for any help. Greg Hankins -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Greg Hankins ghankins@delphi.com "'Tis well said," replied Candide Hendersonville, Tennessee "but we must tend our gardens." -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gems.vcu.edu!kwilliams Thu Feb 24 00:00:04 EST 1994 Article: 26963 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gems.vcu.edu!kwilliams From: kwilliams@gems.vcu.edu (kathleen williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: composting horse manure Message-ID: <1994Feb23.154215.1081@gems.vcu.edu> Date: 23 Feb 94 15:42:15 -0400 References: <2ke4ed$4mm@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Organization: Medical College of Virginia Lines: 29 In article <2ke4ed$4mm@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>, jbuffer@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James J Buffer) writes: > Okay, I just dumped several cubic feet of horse manure into my compost bin (a > big wood box with chicken wire sides). Now what? Should I mix other stuff into > it (leaves, sawdust)? How long until I can put it into the garden without > frying the perennials? > > As Shakspear said: "Reply, reply" Horse manure isn't nearly as "strong" as cow manure. If it is already mixed in with the shavings most people use for bedding, you can add it directly to the garden without burning the plants. I've used it direct from the manure-pile (we have three horses) as a top dressing lightly worked into the soil. The tomatoes and roses love it! The shavings also make good mulch. As for the weed question - horses tend not to digest their food as thoroughly as some animals, and there will be both weed seeds and undigested whea, etc. grains in their manure. This is why you see sparrows and other birds pecking at the manure. This would be one reason for composting, as at least some of the unwanted seeds would decay in the pile or sprout and be able to be turned under. KW -- ****************************************************************************** kwilliams@gems.vcu.edu * "Apparently it is difficult for some standard disclaimers apply * people to reconcile good manners with (C) 1994 * strength, when of course the strongest * people are those who are able to * control themselves." - Paul Greenberg ******************************************************************************** From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!naples.gain.com!maxx Thu Feb 24 00:00:06 EST 1994 Article: 26964 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!naples.gain.com!maxx From: maxx@Gain.COM (Maxxwell M. Cassidy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Elk/deer resistant plant Date: 24 Feb 1994 01:33:44 GMT Organization: Gain Technology, Inc. Lines: 120 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <2kh05o$b8l@naples.gain.com> References: <1994Feb21.151832.95565@yuma> <1994Feb22.143202.43445@yuma> NNTP-Posting-Host: santaclara.gain.com In article <1994Feb22.143202.43445@yuma> ront@picea.CFNR.ColoState.EDU (Ronald Thomas) writes: >In article <1994Feb21.151832.95565@yuma> kusuma@CS.ColoState.EDU (antonius kusuma) writes: >> >>Hi! >> >>First of all, my apology if this topic has been discussed in the >>FAQ, but I looked and looked and couldn't find the answer to my >>question. >>A friend of mine just moved to a new house up in the mountains >>of Colorado where the elks and the deer still roam free. He's >>thinking about building a small flower garden in his backyard >>this spring, preferable one that will provide him with cut flowers >>all season long, but he's afraid the elks and the deer would just >>make a salad bar out of his garden. >>Does anybody in the netland have any suggestion as what to plant >>that those animals won't touch, other than daffodils (too late >>to plant them anyway) and petunias? >>I await your suggestions. Thanks! >> > >Imagine the gall of these animals, daring to try to survive when it might >ruin your garden! Why they don't just lay down and die in order to make >your life easier is beyond me! > >My suggestions: tell your friend to get his butt out of the mountains and >back to some sanitary little city, where he isn't encroaching on the home >range of wild life, and he won't have to worry about nature being an >inconvenience to him and his garden. The reason elk & deer are in the >gardens of mountain residents is because that is THEIR winter range. > >Plant NATIVE plants, don't bring any more exotics into these places, and if >they get 'et, so be it!! For once in your life, live with and celebrate >nature, don't try to circumvent or destroy it!! > >Ron Thomas >ront@niwot.cfnr.colostate.edu >Estes Park, Colorado God! The arrogance! Grow the hell up! First, deer are weedy thruout the east (they break into and eat garbage in Washington, DC, says my aunt), and are in good numbers in the Rockies, especially since the loss of natural predators. I have elk and deer in my area (a Tewa reservation in Northern New Mexico), and I have not had a big problem (the rabbits are worse, and the coyotes that trample everything looking for rabbits), I think it's because I like to walk my property line when I'm thinking, and the whole thing gets scent-marked. Predator feces is a good idea, but, hey, Man is a predator too, and I am one of them. But to me, physical barriers are best. Just put high (chest-high) chickenwire around it, and keep them out. Don't poison them, or it will get out into the food chain, and you'll eat it. Those chemicals don't go away, you know. Shooting the deer is also an option (get a permit first). Good meat, and, no rainforest was cut for the grazing, so it's a more sustainable thing than importing your food from out of state (which means California, where people grow in the desert with water that comes from Colorado), and I doubt that Mr. Righteous Ron eats only native botanicals. By all means, plant natives, they are easier to take care of, take less water, less susceptible to predation, but don't let this jerk tell you that you can't grow vegitables or pretty flowers in your own damned back yard! If you think about that attitude, you wouldn't have anywhere for man to live. It is possible for man and animal to live together naturally, and that would ordinarly mean contolling deer by eating them, just like in nature. I don't advocate cutting down forest or strip-mining or anything like that, but there is a limit to this macrobiotic, vegan, naturist nonsense (which is all about urban people telling rural people how to live). If this guy really objects to people bringing in foreign things to Colorado, he should bulldoze his house in Estes Park, landscape his land with natives, and give it to the Nature Conservancy, if they'll take it. If he is going to live there, he should live there. Sounds like a city dweller talking to me. Doesn't he drink water and heat his house and piss and shit and throw stuff out like everyone else? That's pretty much the end of "nature" right there! Why not have some nice plants? Why not just find a way that you can live you life on your own terms without ruining it for the next guy? Chicken wire! As simple as that. I don't think a garden in your back yard is going to "circumvent or destroy" nature, and besides, if you take out the chicken-wire, and let it get overgrown, then the deer will eat, and all will be back to normal. Perfectly sustainable. Of course deer would rather eat your garden than juniper berries and new-growth pine. They would rather have your asperagus and rummage your compost heap! And, it's not as good for them as their native diet, so by all means shoo them away. Bears prefer garbage in the can to salmon in the stream, but it's better to keep them from eating it, as it makes them get heart disease. Anyway, there is a sensible compromise. Maxx Cassidy, Chamisal, New Mexico. -- - Taos Mountain Man * /\____ * - - No Rose w/o Thorns * _/ \______ * - - No Profit w/o Work _____/ \ - - No Love w/o Trust ____/ \___- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gems.vcu.edu!kwilliams Thu Feb 24 00:00:07 EST 1994 Article: 26965 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gems.vcu.edu!kwilliams From: kwilliams@gems.vcu.edu (kathleen williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Where to put Honeysuckle? Message-ID: <1994Feb23.160328.1083@gems.vcu.edu> Date: 23 Feb 94 16:03:28 -0400 References: <2kdkj0$9im@hobbes.cc.uga.edu> Organization: Medical College of Virginia Lines: 47 In article <2kdkj0$9im@hobbes.cc.uga.edu>, joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu (Joan Maxfield UCNS) writes: > > Well, I did it again. I ran out and bought a tree that I didn't > research first. I need to go to impulse shoppers anonymous. > Anyway... > > I bought a 'red honeysuckle' bush and I don't know where to put it. I > only found notes on the yellow variety in a book on shrubs, is the red > one the same? I have sunny areas, shady areas, wet areas and > realtively dry areas, even a little hillside. Where does it go? > > Dan is pretty excited about it, you see, he proposed to me beside a > huge Honeysuckle bush, he loves the way they smell. And around here > they are just now beginning to flower and they smell *so* wonderful. > > Also, we are planning our first 'real' garden this year. I love > having a yard, even if it's rented. Luckily for us our landlord > doesn't mind what we do so long as it looks good (I told him I'd > sunbathe alot ;) > > I sneezed 12 times in a row yesterday, must be spring! > > Joan > -- > Joan C. Maxfield * "Je Crois que je vais cracher une > joanm@moe.coe.uga.edu * boule de poils" -Henri de la Barbe > maxfield@phoenix.cs.uga.edu * If this is the red honeysuckle I'm familiar with, it is the native American kind. The yellow stuff that you see everywhere is, I believe, an import from China. Unlike it's native counterpart it is very invasive! The red honeysuckle should be fairly hardy and not especially picky about soil. I suppose a sunny location would be best for encouraging flowers, but I've seen it thrive in shade, too. It still grows wild in this area, though it can be choked out by the yellow-flowered variety. KW -- ****************************************************************************** kwilliams@gems.vcu.edu * "Apparently it is difficult for some standard disclaimers apply * people to reconcile good manners with (C) 1994 * strength, when of course the strongest * people are those who are able to * control themselves." - Paul Greenberg ******************************************************************************** From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!naples.gain.com!maxx Thu Feb 24 00:00:07 EST 1994 Article: 26966 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!naples.gain.com!maxx From: maxx@Gain.COM (Maxxwell M. Cassidy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mothballs in the Garden Date: 24 Feb 1994 01:39:10 GMT Organization: Gain Technology, Inc. Lines: 28 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kh0fu$b8q@naples.gain.com> References: <2kdmq5$lp0@newscast.West.Sun.COM> NNTP-Posting-Host: santaclara.gain.com In article <2kdmq5$lp0@newscast.West.Sun.COM> nann@nosun.West.Sun.COM writes: >My neighbor has recently spread mothballs over an area adjoining our yard, >in an effort to discourage cats from using it as a bathroom. >I was wondering if anyone knew what kind of effect this would have on any >plants in the area as well as toxic effects on children and pets? >Will they eventually dissolve? > >Thanks, > >Nancy >nann@nosun.West.Sun.COM > Oooo, nasty. As an ex-EPAer, I can assure you that moth balls are not as safe as they say. They give off a toxic gas, and will disolve. I would not let anyone stand down-wind of there, and I would put on rubber gloves and pick the little bastards up, and have them disposed of as toxic waste. I would not eat the fruit of that garden. Maxx. -- - Taos Mountain Man * /\____ * - - No Rose w/o Thorns * _/ \______ * - - No Profit w/o Work _____/ \ - - No Love w/o Trust ____/ \___- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gems.vcu.edu!kwilliams Thu Feb 24 00:00:08 EST 1994 Article: 26967 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gems.vcu.edu!kwilliams From: kwilliams@gems.vcu.edu (kathleen williams) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Invasive Honeysuckle Message-ID: <1994Feb23.155607.1082@gems.vcu.edu> Date: 23 Feb 94 15:56:07 -0400 References: Organization: Medical College of Virginia Lines: 30 In article , jsb5w@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU (Jacqueline S. Biscardi) writes: > My husband and I just bought a house on twp acres in central > Virginia (near Charlottesville). The lot was very overgrown > with honeysuckle, Virginia creeper, poison ivy :( and other > unidentifiable woody vines. We have been pulling these vines > out of trees and (hopefully) out of the ground all winter and > have cleared a lot of this land...there were some pretty cedars > and walnut trees smothered under all that mess! My question > is: what can I do to make sure this stuff doesn't come back? I > have thought about putting black plastic everywhere, mowing it > constantly in the summer, or planting something else invasive > (eg, ivy) but prettier. Any ideas? Oh... I tried "round up" > ont the poison ivy three times last summer and it didn't seem > to faze the stuff. Poison ivy is tough stuff! I've found that using something like Roundup, but at twice the recommended concentration, tends to do the trick. Remember to *saturate* the leaves, especially the new growth! Alternatively, find someone who is not allergic to it and pay them to dig/pull it up! KW -- ****************************************************************************** kwilliams@gems.vcu.edu * "Apparently it is difficult for some standard disclaimers apply * people to reconcile good manners with (C) 1994 * strength, when of course the strongest * people are those who are able to * control themselves." - Paul Greenberg ******************************************************************************** From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!gwen Thu Feb 24 00:00:09 EST 1994 Article: 26968 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!gwen From: gwen@class.class.org (Gwen Dandridge) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: roses along ornamental iron fence Date: 24 Feb 1994 01:41:43 GMT Organization: CLASS.ORG Lines: 34 Distribution: ba,na,usa,world Message-ID: <2kh0kn$snc@news.cerf.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: class.class.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Fred Schenkelberg (fms@chemelex.com) wrote: : Hi, the post from the new homeowner seeking advise about roses : reminded me to ask this question since I too am a new condo to : home (with yard) transfer. : Our yard is split by a 5' ornamental iron (black) to 'guard' the : pool area. We would like to plant roses along the fense to : enhance the 'guard' aspect and to 'beautify' the fence to some : extent. We're in zone 14 in the San Francisco Bay area and : wonder which type and name of rose would work in this situation. : I have the sunset Garden book, but at the nursery we're very : confusted by all the varities and options. The sunset varieties are usually just the hybrid teas which aren't very interesting. In your area there are some wonderful rose nurseries - like Berkeley Horticulture in Berkeley and Magic Gardens in - Berkeley. Just so happens I live there too. What height, color, etc do you want. I know some about roses. I have 40 in my yard. There is also an old rose festival in El Cerrito in early Spring that you might wish to go to in order to see examples of lots of roses. The David Austin roses are wonderful - also known as English roses. They are noted for their smell and better shape then the hybrid teas. So, how tall is that fence? : Thanks for your help. : Fred : --- : Fred Schenkelberg : fms@chemelex.com : -- : Fred Schenkelberg From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!gwen Thu Feb 24 00:00:11 EST 1994 Article: 26969 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!gwen From: gwen@class.class.org (Gwen Dandridge) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Climbing roses Date: 24 Feb 1994 01:50:26 GMT Organization: CLASS.ORG Lines: 23 Message-ID: <2kh152$ssj@news.cerf.net> References: <9402171741.AA19474@cs.utexas.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: class.class.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] SYSTEM (WERTZG@NAPC-1.NAVY.MIL) wrote: : I have a concrete retaining wall topped by a railing running along my driveway. : 'Ground level' is at the top of the wall. Would it be possible to plant : climbing roses behind the wall and train them to climb DOWN the wall? Yes, there are roses that were developed to grow on the ground like Max Graf a rugosa hybrid. Its pink. There are others. : Just curious, : Greg. : *============================================================================* : > NN NN A WW WW WW CCCCCC TTTTTTTT Greg Wertz (a.k.a. Hobs) < : > NNN NN A A WW WW WW CC -- TT VAX System Manager < : > NN NNN AAAAA WWWWWW CC -- TT E-mail: wertzg@napc-1.navy.mil < : > NN NN AA AA WWWW CCCCCC TT IP_Address: 192.133.5.1 < : > Naval Air Warfare Center - Trenton < : *============================================================================* : From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!gwen Thu Feb 24 00:00:12 EST 1994 Article: 26970 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!gwen From: gwen@class.class.org (Gwen Dandridge) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Climbing roses Date: 24 Feb 1994 01:52:03 GMT Organization: CLASS.ORG Lines: 20 Message-ID: <2kh183$ssm@news.cerf.net> References: <9402171741.AA19474@cs.utexas.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: class.class.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] SYSTEM (WERTZG@NAPC-1.NAVY.MIL) wrote: : I have a concrete retaining wall topped by a railing running along my driveway. : 'Ground level' is at the top of the wall. Would it be possible to plant : climbing roses behind the wall and train them to climb DOWN the wall? : Just curious, Yes Max Graf for one. : Greg. : *============================================================================* : > NN NN A WW WW WW CCCCCC TTTTTTTT Greg Wertz (a.k.a. Hobs) < : > NNN NN A A WW WW WW CC -- TT VAX System Manager < : > NN NNN AAAAA WWWWWW CC -- TT E-mail: wertzg@napc-1.navy.mil < : > NN NN AA AA WWWW CCCCCC TT IP_Address: 192.133.5.1 < : > Naval Air Warfare Center - Trenton < : *============================================================================* : From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!usc!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!gwen Thu Feb 24 00:00:13 EST 1994 Article: 26971 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!usc!news.cerf.net!class.class.org!gwen From: gwen@class.class.org (Gwen Dandridge) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: inhospitable roses? Date: 24 Feb 1994 01:59:15 GMT Organization: CLASS.ORG Lines: 26 Message-ID: <2kh1lj$t1l@news.cerf.net> References: <2jebhr$sh7@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> <1994Feb17.215113.27160@cmhcsys.cmhcsys.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: class.class.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Jaime Fuhr (jaimef@cmhcsys.com) wrote: : leppik peter (leppik@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu) wrote: : : DStewart@mail.ulib.csuohio.edu (donna stewart) writes: : : You aren't "supposed" to plant new roses in beds that had previously : : contained rose bushes, not because of any toxic substance, but because the : : previous rose bush will have depleted the soil of needed nutrients. : : -- : : Peter Leppik-- p-leppi@uiuc.edu : Is there some way to add nutrients back into the soil to regenerate it? : -- : *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*- : Jaime Fuhr, CMHC Systems jaimef@cmhcprd.cmhcsys.COM : Columbus, Ohio "None of us are as smart as all of us" : DeVry Institute of Technology - The One Minute Manager There is a problem that is not just lack of nutrients - the soil is called rose sick - they think is may be nematodes in the ground but are not sure. Remove the soil from the area replace with one part humus to three parts good soil or sterize the dirt. This only applies to new roses in old rose ground. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer Thu Feb 24 00:00:14 EST 1994 Article: 26972 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!nntp.cs.ubc.ca!uw-beaver!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Climbing Plants Date: 24 Feb 1994 01:18:40 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 17 Message-ID: <2kgv9g$5il@news.u.washington.edu> References: <103714@cup.portal.com> <2k11c7$t7b@agate.berkeley.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu I would try one or more species of Passion flowers as well. Some of the best for both flowers and fruit are P. mollissimma, P. zamorana (if you can find it - Chiltern's has seeds), and P. edulis (for fruit; the flowers are so-so). P. caerulea is a good climber and can really cover in a couple of seasons. I haven't had mine fruit as they need cross-pollination to set, but I hear the fruit is decent. Strangely enough, Passifloras will set fruit more consistently if you cross them with another species than with another clone of the same species. However, not all groups cross easily. The ones that have the well-developed filaments, like P. caerulea, P. incarnata (our native one), etc., and equal-size petals and sepals, (looking like 10 petals) cross well, but they will not cross easily with the ones with five petals and small sepals (hence "star-shaped" blooms). As for the tubular ones such as mollissima, I have not tried this cross before, since I am nostly interested in hardy ones and it is definitely not hardy in Seattle. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!news.bu.edu!att-in!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Thu Feb 24 00:00:15 EST 1994 Article: 26973 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!news.bu.edu!att-in!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Re: PawPaw Source Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <660006@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 02:22:14 GMT Lines: 26 >I would like to plant a PawPaw tree, What is a good variety and >a source for the plant. Any named variety is likely to be better than just plain old pawpaw you most often see offered in catalogs. Varities include "Sunflower", "Taylor", "Mango" and "Sweet Alice". The reputed best tasting cultivar, "David Fairchild", is extinct. Another good source for a good plant is to ask around and find one growing on a family farm. You can dig up a sucker--but it needs to be quite small (1'-18") to survive. Of course, finding such a family heirloom takes some detective work, and connections in rural areas. Some nurseries that have offered named varieties in past years are: 1. Hidden Spring Nursery, Rt. 14 Box 159, Cooksville TN 38501 phone (615) 268-9889, send $1 and self-addressed stamped envelope (aka SASE) for catalog. 2. Nennilea Farms nursery, Rt. 1 Box 683, Alburtis PA, 18011 phone (215) 845-2077, sned SASE for price list. 3. Northwood Nursery, 28696 S. Cramer Rd., Molalla, OR 97038 phone (503) 651-3737 Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!news.bu.edu!att-in!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd Thu Feb 24 00:00:16 EST 1994 Article: 26974 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!purdue!news.bu.edu!att-in!att-out!cbfsb!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!djd From: djd@cbnewsg.cb.att.com (david.j.daulton) Subject: Re: Where to put Honeysuckle? Message-ID: Sender: news@cbfsb.cb.att.com Organization: AT&T References: <2kdkj0$9im@hobbes.cc.uga.edu> <1994Feb23.160328.1083@gems.vcu.edu> Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 02:40:43 GMT Lines: 22 >> I bought a 'red honeysuckle' bush and I don't know where to put it. I >> only found notes on the yellow variety in a book on shrubs, is the red >> one the same? I have sunny areas, shady areas, wet areas and >> realtively dry areas, even a little hillside. Where does it go? >> >> Dan is pretty excited about it, you see, he proposed to me beside a >> huge Honeysuckle bush, he loves the way they smell. And around here >> they are just now beginning to flower and they smell *so* wonderful. Judging from the red flowers, you probably have trumpet honeysuckle, Lonicera sempervirens. And I would bet your "proposal" honeysuckle was Japanese honeysuckle, Lonicera japonica. Good news--L. sempervirens is not rampant (L. japonica is, extremely). Bad news--L. sempervirensis not fragrant. But, good news--it will lure in any hummingbirds in the neighborhood. According to Dirr, plant L. sempervirens in moist, well drained, acid or near neutral soil. Will tolerate even dense shade, but more shade, less bloom. Requires support (e.g., good for growing on a fence). Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.unt.edu!news.oc.com!utacfd.uta.edu!rwsys!kf5iw!wb9rxw!gary Thu Feb 24 11:32:54 EST 1994 Article: 26975 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.unt.edu!news.oc.com!utacfd.uta.edu!rwsys!kf5iw!wb9rxw!gary From: gary@wb9rxw.lonestar.org (Gary Partain) Subject: Compost mixer - where to find? Reply-To: gary%wb9rxw@dp7up.com Organization: American Airlines - STIN Date: Tue, 22 Feb 1994 22:55:46 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 15 I remember a discussion not too long ago about a device meant to stir up your compost heap without having to dig out the pitchfork and toss decomposing (bleah!) matter around. It sounded as if this device was mounted on a wooden handle and was to be inserted in the pile. Upon pulling it out, flanges opened up and drug some of the compost to the top of the pile. "By golly" said I, "that's just what I need." The problem has been finding it. Is it offered at any particular hardware store or lawn/garden shop? The local Home Depot and Payless Cashways did not have it. Thanks, all! -- Gary Partain | She was torn between love and booty. American Airlines, D/FW, TX | gary@wb9rxw.lonestar.org | - Faith Baldwin - | From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!csd4.csd.uwm.edu!michaelm Thu Feb 24 11:32:55 EST 1994 Article: 26976 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uwm.edu!csd4.csd.uwm.edu!michaelm From: michaelm@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Michael T Meyers) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: >>>Source BETA III carrot<<<< Date: 24 Feb 1994 04:29:47 GMT Organization: Computing Services Division, University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2khafrINNlna@uwm.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.89.7.4 NNFrom: michaelm@csd4.csd.uwm.edu (Michael T Meyers) During the 1992 growing season, I sent for and planted a carrot from the University of Wisconsin. Its name was the BETA III (lots of extra beta carotene.). I can't find a seed source for this and the folks at my county extension office don't have any info. Anyone out there know of a source? It was a great tasting, easy to grow uniform sized small carrot. Many thanks in advance. Sudie From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!jyoungmac.sps.mot.com!jerry_l_young Thu Feb 24 11:32:58 EST 1994 Article: 26977 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!risc.sps.mot.com!jyoungmac.sps.mot.com!jerry_l_young From: Jerry Young Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Texas perennial garden Date: 23 Feb 1994 13:44:43 GMT Organization: Motorola RISC Apps Lines: 28 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kfmkbINNh9a@talos4.sps.mot.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: jyoungmac.sps.mot.com X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d24 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Wed, 23 Feb 94 07:44:56 GMT In article Jean Suplick, suplick@convex.com writes: > >I have Welsh's book on Texas Perennials and a recent book on Texas Native >plants (can't remember the author's name -- ended in "ski"), so I have plenty >of ideas. Primarily, I'm looking to exchange information with anyone who >might acutally have experimented in this area with perennials or who has some >experience with any mail order sources for native plants in Texas. You might try Yucca Du Nurseries (At Peckerwood Gardens). I don't have their address with me, but they are listed in Gardening by Mail. They are in Waller, TX. if I remember. They have a great catalog, but things are a little pricey. They do a lot of plant collecting, so you can find some things that are pretty unusual. -- lots of Texas natives, but not just. They have a lot of stuff from Mexico, and they specialize in certain genuses like bauhinia. They also invite customers out once a year for a garden tour, and last year it came at the same time as the Antique Rose Emporium's open house. They are about 30 miles apart. So it is a nice day trip. Unfortunately the Yucca Du folks won't sell you anything on their open house, but their garden will knock you out, and give you lots of ideas (like quitting your job and gardening full time). Jerry From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!network.ucsd.edu!btree!tomc Thu Feb 24 11:32:59 EST 1994 Article: 26978 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!network.ucsd.edu!btree!tomc From: tomc@btree.brooktree.com (Tom Croke) Subject: testing soil pH Message-ID: <1994Feb24.041456.11146@btree.brooktree.com> Date: Thu, 24 Feb 94 04:14:56 GMT Distribution: na Organization: Brooktree Corporation Lines: 4 How can I test my soil pH? Can litmus paper be used? I've heard you may have to dry the soil for testing. Any info would be appreciated. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!sybus.sybus.com!myrddin!tscs!daver!dlb!megatest!sfisher Thu Feb 24 11:33:00 EST 1994 Article: 26979 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!sybus.sybus.com!myrddin!tscs!daver!dlb!megatest!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: Growing potatoes above ground Message-ID: Summary: New Question! Keywords: In tires Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <21@oeonline.UUCP> Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 17:19:08 GMT Lines: 17 Last year, somebody posted about growing potatoes in used tires, above ground. I didn't save these posts, but I was intrigued at the time, and am ready to try potatoes for the first time. If somebody has the post or info on this and could re-post or E-mail me, I'd appreciate it. As I recall, the reponses on this lapsed into whether or not the tires would impart a bad taste. I rather think they won't, so I'm going to try anyway. I'll let you know. Something else I need to know, do potatoes need full sun? Part shade? I'm trying to figure out where in my small yard I should put this contraption... Can I throw soil on top, or does it need to be straw? --Kim Fisher From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.ingr.com!ingr!b17news!usenet Thu Feb 24 11:33:01 EST 1994 Article: 26980 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.ingr.com!ingr!b17news!usenet From: kwelling@ingr.com Subject: General Landscaping Questions Message-ID: <1994Feb23.132234.8603@b17news.b17a.ingr.com> Sender: usenet@b17news.b17a.ingr.com (USENET) Organization: Intergraph X-Newsreader: Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 13:22:34 GMT Lines: 26 Hi all, I have a few questions for anyone who can answer them. First, there is a ditch in front of our house. It has a pretty good incline and the dirt is washing really bad. Not to mention that we have no grass after last year's dry summer. I are planning to redo the entire yard. I was wondering if it would be better to sod the bank of the ditch and seed the yard, or seed only (ditch and yard). We want to use fescue. What would be the best for our yard? Or would burmuda be a better choice? I just outside of Huntsville, Alabama (that's extreme north Alabama). Oh, I am having top soil brought in. Also, I have an Alberta spruce. It's just three feet tall, and it's been in the ground for just under a year. Would it be safe to move it now? Or should I just leave it where it is? Last, does anyone know a good book on composting? I want to start a compost pile at the backend of our yard, but I haven't got the slightest idea how to do it. I want to do the bulk of the yard in late March, early April. I think that does it for now. You can email me directly or post your answers. Thank ahead, Karen Ellington kwelling@HSV25.pcmail.ingr.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc Thu Feb 24 11:33:02 EST 1994 Article: 26981 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!billmc From: billmc@microsoft.com (Bill McJohn) Subject: Lewisias and other alpines Organization: Microsoft Corporation Message-ID: Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 18:54:07 GMT Lines: 18 Now that I've got my cold-frames built, and the seed catalogs are pouring in, I'm thinking about growing alpines in pots and using one of the frames to winter them over. (I'm in Seattle, where the main challenges with alpines seem to be heavy soil and incessant winter rain.) In particular, I'd like to grow Lewisia. The species that I've found in seed lists are L. columbiana, L. cotyledon (and hybrids), L. rediviva, and L. tweedyi. Are these generally difficult? If so, which is the easiest (or least difficult!)? How long will it take to grow them to flowering size? How large and deep should the pots be? I would be grateful for any and all advice, references, and anecdotes. Thanks, Bill McJohn billmc@microsoft From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke Thu Feb 24 11:33:04 EST 1994 Article: 26982 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: passiflora quadrangularis Message-ID: <1994Feb24.125243.4154@lsl.co.uk> Date: 24 Feb 94 12:52:43 +0100 References: <104562@cup.portal.com> Distribution: world Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 18 In article <104562@cup.portal.com>, mothra@cup.portal.com (Elise - Swope) writes: > Does anyone have any experience growing passiflora quadrangularis? I just > recieved some seeds from Thompson & Morgan. The catalog description says > that the vine reaches 50 feet and produces 8 lb. fruit. I have several other > types of passion fruit in my yard, and all are vigorous growers (but none as > big as this). My question: what type of support do they need? I have 2 vines > which have taken down branches of Koa trees (as sturdy a tree as you're likely > to find), what type of support is required for quadrangularis? I grew it once years ago. It didn't reach 50 feet because it was in an 8 foot greenhouse. It flowered in its second year from seed. I can't really offer any advice on what support might be needed when it is given its head out of doors. Is that 8 lb. of fruit per plant, or per fruit?? Mine never set any fruit, so I don't know. I see that Thompson and Morgan have quite a range of Passiflora this year. Some people succeed with P. caerulea out of doors in England, but I expect it is the only one which can survive the Winter. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!jvnc.net!krell.sh.rohmhaas.com!rsndww Thu Feb 24 11:33:10 EST 1994 Article: 26983 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!jvnc.net!krell.sh.rohmhaas.com!rsndww From: Dave Whitman Subject: Re: testing soil pH Message-ID: <1994Feb24.130916.6528@tigger.jvnc.net> X-Xxmessage-Id: X-Xxdate: Thu, 24 Feb 94 13:09:14 GMT Sender: news@tigger.jvnc.net (Zee News Genie) Nntp-Posting-Host: krell.sh.rohmhaas.com Organization: Rohm & Haas Co. X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.2 References: <1994Feb24.041456.11146@btree.brooktree.com> Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 13:09:16 GMT Lines: 26 In article <1994Feb24.041456.11146@btree.brooktree.com> Tom Croke, tomc@btree.brooktree.com writes: >How can I test my soil pH? Can litmus paper be used? > >I've heard you may have to dry the soil for testing. >Any info would be appreciated. Measuring soil pH is pretty easy, but litmus paper is too crude a measure to be useful. Litmus has a more or less binary response - it kicks over fairly sharply between acid and base, with little information other than that. I recommend you try pHydron paper, or even better if you can find it, ColorPhast pH sticks. Take a tablespoon or so of your soil (dry or wet, doesn't matter) shake it up vigorously with about a 1/4 cup of water in a small jar, let stand for 5 minutes, then measure the pH of the water using the pH paper or pH sticks. (For technoweanies, soil has a high buffer capacity, and thus this test is relatively insensitive to the proportions of soil and water, or the starting pH of the water.) --------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Whitman * Mild mannered chemist by day, internet: rsndww@rohmhaas.com * gardening fanatic at night. US Mail: get real. * From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!hoang Thu Feb 24 11:33:11 EST 1994 Article: 26984 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!hoang From: hoang@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu (Lap Hoang) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: ELEPHANT GARLIC Date: 24 Feb 1994 13:42:13 GMT Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kiarl$lho@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet2.scri.fsu.edu Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Last year I planted about a dozen cloves of elephant garlic. Except for a couple, the rest of them turned out, when mature, with one big bulb, 2 inches or so, very tough, and no cloves at all. Is it a common problem? or did I do something very wrong that I don't know about. Please help. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!bshoop Thu Feb 24 11:33:12 EST 1994 Article: 26985 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!bshoop From: bshoop@shrsys.hslc.org Subject: square foot gardening question... Message-ID: <24FEB94.14182514@shrsys.hslc.org> Sender: news@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 19:18:25 GMT Lines: 17 I just finished reading Square Foot Gardening (on the strong comments found in this group) and am going to give it a shot this year. In the book he made a comment that the best mulch he found was carpet. I am not enamored with having chunks of rotting carpet in my garden, but my wife suggested we try astro turf. The green plastic stuff you put on patios, etc... I figure it will not rot very rapidly, can be cut into square foot sections and pre-punched with holes of the proper spacing for the plants. The other advantage is that the garden will look all green and pretty even with no plants growing. Does anyone have any comments on my choice here, good or bad and why. Many thanks in advance.... post comments here please....have a nice day.... - Brian Shoop Computer Services Coordinator Weis Center for Research Danville, PA 17822 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich.edu!med.umich.edu!Chris.Ellinger Thu Feb 24 11:33:13 EST 1994 Article: 26986 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich.edu!med.umich.edu!Chris.Ellinger From: Chris.Ellinger@med.umich.edu (Chris Ellinger) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: cutting back apple trees Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 15:01:36 GMT Organization: Kresge Hearing Research Institute Lines: 13 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.214.14.16 I have some large old apple trees that are out of control. I've seen smaller trees cut back almost to the trunk that have grown slender vertical new shoots from the cut back limbs. I like the look of those cut back trees, and wonder if my older ones will respond to the same treatment. Will they sprout new growth as long as they're alive when they're cut back, or might they just give up and die? Any experts out there? Suggestions for references? Thanks in advance. Chris Ellinger Ann Arbor, MI From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!asl.hitachi.com!luke!yujen Thu Feb 24 11:33:14 EST 1994 Article: 26987 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!asl.hitachi.com!luke!yujen From: yujen@sol.asl.hitachi.com (Yujen Juan) Subject: Raspberry (rec.gardens) Message-ID: <1994Feb24.150834.13401@sol.asl.hitachi.com> Sender: news@sol.asl.hitachi.com Nntp-Posting-Host: luke Reply-To: yujen@sol.asl.hitachi.com Organization: Hitachi America Ltd Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 15:08:34 GMT Lines: 24 Hi, I would like to plant raspberry in my garden this year and here are my questions: 1. What mail order companies offer raspberry with good price and quality? 2. Should I buy raspberry that are 2 years old or younger? What is the difference? 3. How much does each plant yield? Any other helpful suggestions on buying/growing raspberry are welcome! Thanks Yujen ================================================================================ Yujen Juan Hitachi America, Ltd. Email: yujen@sol.asl.hitachi.com Voice: (609)520-0071 ext. 46 Fax: (609)520-8953 ================================================================================ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier Thu Feb 24 11:33:15 EST 1994 Article: 26988 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Neophyte tomato question Message-ID: <1994Feb24.100507.23487@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 24 Feb 94 10:05:07 -0600 References: <1994Feb20.114147.23220@cobra.uni.edu> <2k8vhv$6tq@apollo.it.luc.edu> Followup-To: rec.gardens Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 12 In article , cyn@odin.mda.uth.tmc.edu (Cyndi Smith) writes: > Now I'm really confused! > I was given some "Patio" tomato plants last August. They grew to about 2 > ft tall and produced (small yields) from late Sept. to now (one still has a > green tomato and others have blooms). I realize that these were specially > treated (in pots that I brought inside for each freeze), but would these be > determionate or indeterminate? (i.e. they are bushes that produce > continually...) If a plant continues to bloom and fruit, it's indeterminant. Kay From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!not-for-mail Thu Feb 24 11:33:17 EST 1994 Article: 26989 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!oakhill!not-for-mail From: fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq Butt) Subject: Re: Rose bed in very heavy clay....Advi Message-ID: <2kiipl$air@engage.sps.mot.com> Lines: 29 Sender: news@oakhill.sps.mot.com (oakhill news) Nntp-Posting-Host: engage Organization: Motorola RISC Software, Austin, Texas References: <11FEB94.22171881@shrsys.hslc.org> <1453300474@cdp> <66368@ogicse.ogi.edu> Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 15:57:41 GMT In article <66368@ogicse.ogi.edu> fanty@cse.ogi.edu (Mark Fanty) writes: ...deleted... > >As I see it, the lessons are: > >1) When dealing with clay, use *lots* of organic matter. I routinely have to remove and discard up to 80% of the clay I get out of the ground. At least a cubic foot of compressed peat moss per hole is usually a good amount here. I have heard of people here using 80% sand 20% pure organic matter! > >2) Don't compact wet clay unless you are doing pottery. > Even if you somehow do this, it *can* be somewhat remedied by adding a lot of gypsum which does chemically destroy clay and turn it into pudding. fmb -- Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightest relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!sunSITE!london Thu Mar 3 13:26:18 EST 1994 Article: 26990 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!sunSITE!london From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: soaking seeds for faster germination Date: 24 Feb 1994 16:51:24 GMT Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill Lines: 12 Message-ID: <2kiluc$fh2@bigblue.oit.unc.edu> References: <2k9efp$ldv@scratchy.reed.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: calypso.oit.unc.edu In article <2k9efp$ldv@scratchy.reed.edu> kbezilla@reed.edu (Ken Bezilla) writes: >Has anyone had any experience with soaking seeds before planting? >I'm interested in hearing about soaking seeds for direct sowing (e.g., I've heard of soaking them in a tea made from seaweed and water (agricultural granular kelp used as feed supplement or soil amendment is the kind most often found but there are commercial liquid preparations sold as seaweed extract) and in solutions of dilute hydrogen peroxide or both. london@sunSITE.unc.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!NewsWatcher!user Thu Mar 3 13:26:19 EST 1994 Article: 26991 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!NewsWatcher!user From: cc37@cornell.edu (CC) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Quick, Robin, to the Bathouse! WAS: Re: Birdhouse source, Purple Martins Followup-To: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 11:43:41 -0500 Organization: Cornell University Lines: 13 Sender: cc37@cornell.edu (Verified) Message-ID: References: <2kg4u2$at0@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <2kgi12$ofa@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: 132.236.171.159 In article <2kgi12$ofa@nntp2.Stanford.EDU>, alpha@w6yx.stanford.edu (Alpha) wrote: > suburban area. I've seen bathouses for sale at a "Scientific Store" in town-- > I'm wondering if I would have any hope of attracting bats to this area! > Would they tolerate living in the 'burbs? Also, I've heard that you need to "seed" a bathouse with some bat guano > to attract the bats. Where does one get this? Try contacting Bat Conservation International in Austin, TX -- they should be able to answer more bat questions than you ever wanted to know, and they have a catalog of bat memorabilia and supplies, like bat houses. Sorry I don't have the #, but Information will know. -- CC From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!sunSITE!london Thu Mar 3 13:26:20 EST 1994 Article: 26992 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!sunSITE!london From: london@sunSITE.unc.edu (Larry London) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Turning clay into soil Date: 24 Feb 1994 17:07:26 GMT Organization: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill Lines: 20 Message-ID: <2kimse$o5l@bigblue.oit.unc.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: calypso.oit.unc.edu If you're in an area where freezing temperatures occur in Winter and you have clay soil just turn your garden/lawn/landscape area with a tractor-mounted bottom plough in late Fall or whenever the soil moisture is appropriate for ploughing. Let the are lay fallow through the Winter. In Spring your soil should be loose and silty for the first 2-12 inches due to freezeout of the water-laden clay. Then simply incorporate organic matter and other soil amendments with a cultivator or rototiller and plant. Instant topsoil. This works very well here in Piedmont North Carolina with my Georgeville Silt Loam soil type and will work as well with any clay loams. Its worth a try anyway and will save much money and energy. Liming, organic mulch, natural fertilizers (rock phosphate, granite or other rock dusts, manure, maure tea, compost, NJ Greensand, etc.). Raising soil pH, increasing populations of beneficial soil microorganisms and humus content will go a long way toward rendering clay into topsoil. Lawrence london@sunSITE.unc.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!leppik Thu Mar 3 13:26:21 EST 1994 Article: 26993 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!leppik From: leppik@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu (leppik peter) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Compost mixer - where to find? Date: 24 Feb 1994 17:16:26 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 21 Message-ID: <2kinda$3eu@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: uxa.cso.uiuc.edu gary@wb9rxw.lonestar.org (Gary Partain) writes: >I remember a discussion not too long ago about a device meant to stir up >your compost heap without having to dig out the pitchfork and toss >decomposing (bleah!) matter around. It sounded as if this device was >mounted on a wooden handle and was to be inserted in the pile. Upon pulling >it out, flanges opened up and drug some of the compost to the top of the >pile. "By golly" said I, "that's just what I need." The problem has been >finding it. Is it offered at any particular hardware store or lawn/garden >shop? The local Home Depot and Payless Cashways did not have it. I bought something like that (except made of metal, not wood) from Gurney's catalog this year. Its really nifty. Sorry I don't have the phone number handy.... -- Peter Leppik-- p-leppi@uiuc.edu Assistant Head, Department of Mad Science University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah238 Thu Mar 3 13:26:22 EST 1994 Article: 26994 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!ah238 From: ah238@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Joseph Zupko) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Spray n grow Date: 24 Feb 1994 17:34:42 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 5 Message-ID: <2kiofi$l76@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: piglet.ins.cwru.edu Did anyone ever tried this product and did you get more yields like they say? Thank ylu -- We can not have a cafeteria type democracy(freedom). From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel!olivea!hal.com!decwrl!rtech!amdahl!amdahl.uts.amdahl.com!lalitha Thu Mar 3 13:26:23 EST 1994 Article: 26995 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel!olivea!hal.com!decwrl!rtech!amdahl!amdahl.uts.amdahl.com!lalitha From: lalitha@uts.amdahl.com (Lalitha Krishnamurthy) Subject: rose/mirandy Message-ID: <1994Feb24.180938.1894@uts.amdahl.com> Organization: Amdahl Corporation, Sunnyvale CA Distribution: usa Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 18:09:38 GMT Lines: 16 Hi ! My rose plant mirandy has developed well the past few weeks. I live in SF Bay area and the plant gets about 5 hours of direct sunlight every day. It even has a single bud developing well. However the new leaves that it is developing now are dry and papery. They also appear curled (the new bronze leaves). The other leaves are perfectly OK. Any remedy ? I do water my plant well. Am I missing something ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. lalitha@uts.amdahl.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 Thu Mar 3 13:26:24 EST 1994 Article: 26996 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: rose/mirandy Date: 24 Feb 1994 19:12:29 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 34 Message-ID: <2kiu6t$s8f@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <1994Feb24.180938.1894@uts.amdahl.com> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: nextsun.ins.cwru.edu In a previous article, lalitha@uts.amdahl.com (Lalitha Krishnamurthy) says: > >I live in SF Bay area and the plant gets about 5 hours of direct sunlight >every day. It even has a single bud developing well. However the new >leaves that it is developing now are dry and papery. They also appear >curled (the new bronze leaves). The other leaves are perfectly OK. Could be rose midge at work; look for tiny, bright metallic "flies." Their larvae attack new growth from inside the stems and cut off the circulation to the leaves. It could also be spider mites. Look on the under side of the leaf for webbing and extremely tiny red critters(use a magnifier) As to how to get rid of these things; most general purpose insecticides will take care of the midges, or you can just cut off and discard the effected new growth. The mites are another story. Black Leaf 40 (a nicotine spray)is said to work well. Supposedly they can be washed off with strong water sprays, but I don't know for sure--mites haven't been a problem on my plants--yet. Other than blasting them with water, I don't know of another non-toxic way of dealing with them. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * "Sleeplessness is like metaphysics. A-B College * Be there." Philippi, WV * * ----Charles Simic---- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!news Thu Mar 3 13:26:25 EST 1994 Article: 26997 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!news From: kcarroll@u.washington.edu (Kris Carroll) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: composting horse manure Date: 24 Feb 1994 19:31:03 GMT Organization: University of Washington Lines: 21 Message-ID: <2kiv9n$ogt@news.u.washington.edu> References: <2ke4ed$4mm@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: koko.pathology.washington.edu In article <2ke4ed$4mm@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> jbuffer@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (James J Buffer) writes: > Okay, I just dumped several cubic feet of horse manure into my compost bin (a > big wood box with chicken wire sides). Now what? Should I mix other stuff into > it (leaves, sawdust)? How long until I can put it into the garden without > frying the perennials? > > As Shakspear said: "Reply, reply" If you mean manure alone so far and you don't want to wait til it cures, you can always make "tea". [Though Ohio is a ways away from gardening season.] How to: Bag up some in burlap, soak in water [pail or can] then dilute to light brown to use. Tea also avoids the problem of undigested seed. As for worming meds. you have to know your manure's history so to speak. I always keep manure as a seperate pile BTW. other's may not and I'm sure they'll let you know how they do it. Kris Carroll From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!news Thu Mar 3 13:26:27 EST 1994 Article: 26998 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!news From: kcarroll@u.washington.edu (Kris Carroll) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Rhubard best for pies Date: 24 Feb 1994 19:36:11 GMT Organization: University of Washington Lines: 3 Message-ID: <2kivjb$okk@news.u.washington.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: koko.pathology.washington.edu Any opinions on the best rhubard varities for pies. Not too tart my family says. Kris Carroll From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.mtholyoke.edu!dmcmenam Thu Mar 3 13:26:28 EST 1994 Article: 26999 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.mtholyoke.edu!dmcmenam From: dmcmenam@mtholyoke.edu (D. McMenamin) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: PawPaw Source Date: 24 Feb 1994 20:22:44 GMT Organization: Mount Holyoke College Lines: 6 Message-ID: <2kj2ak$90r@slab.mtholyoke.edu> References: <660006@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> <94053.144056U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: mhc.mtholyoke.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] I spotted pawpaw in the Stark Brothers catalog. -- Dianna McMenamin | There is more than meets the eye. There is dmcmenam@mhc.mtholyoke.edu | always more than meets the eye. | -- Barbara Rubin Hudson From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!jsbus Thu Mar 3 13:26:29 EST 1994 Article: 27000 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!jsbus From: jsbus@netcom.com (JSB Corp) Subject: querry - kelp in garden ? Message-ID: Reply-To: tomwa@jsbus.com Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 20:13:01 GMT Lines: 19 Question: I am lucky enough to live close to the Pacific. Periodically, I gather sea-weed (Kelp), wash the salt off and add to the compost to help the compost cook, as well as add micro-nutrients to the finished product. If I simply take a bunch of kelp, wash it, and put it in a trash can with water to soak for a week, will this give me a liquid kelp suitable for foliage spray? In the past when I have bought liquid kelp (at $12 A gallon) and mixed and sprayed, it has helped my strawberries flower and fruit and generally helped the fertility of the garden. If I can make something that is a reasonable substitute cheaply and easily then my whole garden will get that extra touch. Thanks for any insights, Tom tomwa@jsbus.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!jsbus Thu Mar 3 13:26:30 EST 1994 Article: 27001 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!jsbus From: jsbus@netcom.com (JSB Corp) Subject: Re: Slow release Nitrogen Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest) References: <1994Feb23.132808.27469@walter.cray.com> Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 20:14:42 GMT Lines: 13 gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: (...) >Anyway I ask again to the net; why >aren't fertilizers that >are MOSTLY slow release nitrogen >readily available? Cottonseed meal? Soybean meal? Coffee grounds? -Tom From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!an216 Thu Mar 3 13:26:31 EST 1994 Article: 27002 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!an216 From: an216@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Georgen Coyle) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: ELEPHANT GARLIC Date: 24 Feb 1994 20:52:03 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 13 Message-ID: <2kj41j$6l5@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: nextsun.ins.cwru.edu Everything I know about growing garlic (not much, I'm afraid) I gleamed from reading _A_Garlic_Testament_ by Stanley Crawford. He goes into great detail about how the typical clove found in the supermarket is undernourished "nonbolting", that did not put up a seed pod; better is "bolting" or top-setting garlic, which is more self-realised or something :) . I know that the author planted his garlic in October -- a biannual? That could be why yours did not turn out. -- Georgen Coyle * If thou wouldst into the infinite stride, Wooster, Ohio * Explore the finite on every side. * -- Goethe From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!sajeffg Thu Mar 3 13:26:32 EST 1994 Article: 27003 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!galaxy.ucr.edu!sajeffg From: sajeffg@ultrix.uor.edu (Jeff "Crusader" Gonzales) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: date palm growing Date: 24 Feb 1994 20:49:09 GMT Organization: University of Redlands Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kj3s5$ef2@galaxy.ucr.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ultrix.uor.edu Hi. I was wondering if anyone could tell me about growing date palms. I live in Redlands, California, which is about 60 miles west of the deserts where 97 percent of the nation's dates come from (Coachella Valley). I think it is possible to grow date palms in this environment? If so, how do you do it? I figure I can grow the seed in a pot for awhile, but when do you transplant it? Where is the best place to put it? How do you tell if you have a female or a male plant? And how do you fertilize them so they actually grow fruit? Thanks! -J- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!an216 Thu Mar 3 13:26:33 EST 1994 Article: 27004 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!an216 From: an216@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Georgen Coyle) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house Subject: Re: Quick, Robin, to the Bathouse! WAS: Re: Birdhouse source, Purple Martins Date: 24 Feb 1994 21:43:16 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 19 Message-ID: <2kj71k$9p6@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kanga.ins.cwru.edu Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:27004 misc.consumers.house:48433 I asked Bat Conservation Int. in Austin about the need to "seed" new bathouses with bat guano: the guy I talked to said that it may help, but it's not certain. The one case where it did help, someone had a viable bathouse, then put up two new ones, side by side, one with guano on it, the other withoutout -- the seeded house was occupied weeks before the other. But the new occupants were from the nearby, viable colony, not from a distant cave or fertilizer store: they responded to their own smells, not just general bat smells, so I don't think we can generalize that seeding is always necessary. Anyway, they have a good book with plans and all information needed for $5.95. -- Georgen Coyle * If thou wouldst into the infinite stride, Wooster, Ohio * Explore the finite on every side. * -- Goethe From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!mayonews.mayo.edu!Cernohous Thu Mar 3 13:26:33 EST 1994 Article: 27005 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!mayonews.mayo.edu!Cernohous From: icernohous@mayo.edu (Cernohous) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RE: More sensitive plant question. Date: 24 Feb 1994 21:52:42 GMT Organization: Mayo Foundation Lines: 4 Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[4494] Message-ID: <2kj7ja$i0q@fermat.mayo.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: suppmac.mayo.edu X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0@fermat.mayo.edu. Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name. Thank you for all the information of where to get the sensitive plants. Seems that there really are tropical plants. Any idea how I can keep them alive in cold state here at Rochester, Minnesota?? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel!xmission!u.cc.utah.edu!not-for-mail Thu Mar 3 13:26:34 EST 1994 Article: 27006 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel!xmission!u.cc.utah.edu!not-for-mail From: jb6778@u.cc.utah.edu (Jay Brummett/Computer Services SLC Public) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Invasive Honeysuckle Date: 24 Feb 1994 14:53:40 -0700 Organization: University Of Utah Computer Center Lines: 18 Message-ID: <2kj7l4$63g@u.cc.utah.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: u.cc.utah.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Jacqueline S. Biscardi (jsb5w@dayhoff.med.Virginia.EDU) wrote: : My husband and I just bought a house on twp acres in central : Virginia (near Charlottesville). The lot was very overgrown : with honeysuckle, Virginia creeper, poison ivy :( and other : unidentifiable woody vines. We have been pulling these vines : out of trees and (hopefully) out of the ground all winter and As a former Virginian now in Utah, I thought you might find this a bit a bit of comic relief from the ongoing fight against the CREEPER, and the honey suckle vines. In our local garden centers VaCreeper is sold as a ground cover at $8.00 for a 6" pot. Just pot the stuff up and take out an ad in the Salt Lake Tribune. When I lived in VA the only way I found to control the underbrush mix that you are fighting was to brush mow it all down close to the ground. Then dig up anything that dared to grow. It took a good two or three years. Good luck Jay From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!w6yx.stanford.edu!alpha Thu Mar 3 13:26:36 EST 1994 Article: 27007 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!w6yx.stanford.edu!alpha From: alpha@w6yx.stanford.edu (Alpha) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house Subject: Re: Quick, Robin, to the Bathouse! WAS: Re: Birdhouse source, Purple Martins Date: 24 Feb 1994 22:14:47 GMT Organization: Stanford Amateur Radio Club Lines: 13 Message-ID: <2kj8sn$8ms@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> References: <2kj71k$9p6@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: w6yx.stanford.edu Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:27007 misc.consumers.house:48436 Thanks for the info--I called Bat Conservation this morning and asked for their catalog. alpha "Hello, Bat Conservation? Could you send me a jar of Bat Conserve?" -- Alpha/Spasmodic enthusiasm, sense of infallibility, brusque, neurotic, destruc- tive, unbridled free expression, perverse self-will, hell-bent, compulsive, impulsive, suspicious, hyper-vigilant, reactionary, violent, without remorse, immature, insolent, intolerant, uncompromising--In other words, LUCID!!! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!kodiak.gvltec.edu!titustgt Thu Mar 3 13:26:37 EST 1994 Article: 27008 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!kodiak.gvltec.edu!titustgt From: titustgt@kodiak.gvltec.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: sowbug solution Message-ID: <1994Feb24.171045.37@kodiak.gvltec.edu> Date: 24 Feb 94 17:10:45 -0500 Organization: Greenville Technical College Lines: 7 I am writing to confirm that chickens DO eat sowbugs! Mine clean up every time I move anything they hide under. They like moist and dark areas and do tend to eat decaying matter. While I know not everybody can use a chicken as part of the solution, I think that the fish in the aquarium eat them too! Tim From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!w6yx.stanford.edu!alpha Thu Mar 3 13:26:38 EST 1994 Article: 27009 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!w6yx.stanford.edu!alpha From: alpha@w6yx.stanford.edu (Alpha) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house Subject: Re: Quick, Robin, to the Bathouse! WAS: Re: Birdhouse source, Purple Martins Date: 24 Feb 1994 22:16:41 GMT Organization: Stanford Amateur Radio Club Lines: 9 Message-ID: <2kj909$8nh@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> References: <2kj71k$9p6@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: w6yx.stanford.edu Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:27009 misc.consumers.house:48440 The number for Bat Conservation Int'l, by the way, is (512) 327-9721. alpha -- Alpha/Spasmodic enthusiasm, sense of infallibility, brusque, neurotic, destruc- tive, unbridled free expression, perverse self-will, hell-bent, compulsive, impulsive, suspicious, hyper-vigilant, reactionary, violent, without remorse, immature, insolent, intolerant, uncompromising--In other words, LUCID!!! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uhog.mit.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth Thu Mar 3 13:26:39 EST 1994 Article: 27010 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!bnrgate!bnr.co.uk!pipex!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uhog.mit.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!cantaloupe.srv.cs.cmu.edu!ruth From: ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) Subject: Re: Compost mixer - where to find? Message-ID: Sender: news@cs.cmu.edu (Usenet News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: organ.music.cs.cmu.edu Organization: School of Computer Science, Carnegie Mellon References: Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 22:22:08 GMT Lines: 6 Gardener's Supply sells them. (800) 4446417. Good Luck Ruth Sample From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kfoster Thu Mar 3 13:26:40 EST 1994 Article: 27011 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!decwrl!adobe!kfoster From: kfoster@adobe.com (Kathleen Foster) Subject: Tomato Quest Message-ID: <1994Feb24.212428.24741@adobe.com> Sender: usenet@adobe.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Adobe Systems Incorporated Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 21:24:28 GMT Lines: 17 Tomatoes I live in Redwood City, CA, zone 9 (?). Last year I planted Rutgers, a determinant variety, Ponderosa, indeterminant beef stake,and San Maranzo, indeterminant plum. The Rutgers was wonderful. Big fruits, very thin skin and wonderful flavor. The Ponderosa didn't do too well and had a low fruit yield. The San Maranzo was a very prolific producer well into October/November until a really heavy frost hit. This year I'm growing Brandywines for the first time, Rutgers, Red Currant for my patio pots,and yellow cherry. Unfortunately, my San Maranzos didn't germinate so I will have to get some local plums from a nursery. For seeds I use Hudsons and Seed Saver Exchange by mail and locally, Common Ground in Palo Alto. For seedlings I go to Wegmans or Orchard Supply. I hope this helps with your tomatoe quest. I do my best to get OP, open pollinate, seeds. And in my spare time I do can tomatoes. What From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Thu Mar 3 13:26:41 EST 1994 Article: 27012 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Anglophiles wanted Message-ID: <1994Feb24.230301.7144@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Keywords: Anglophiles Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 23:03:01 GMT Lines: 23 In article rteeter@netcom.com (Robert Teeter) writes: >Hey all you Anglophile gardeners, here's your chance to express an >opinion. We're going to be in England in May. What would you say are >your five favorite gardens in Southern England (say, from Stratford south)? >We know about the Chelsea Flower Show already. Kew Gardens Wisley Gardens (National Horticultural Society) Sissinghurst Exbury Gardens Mottisfont Abbey (May may be a bit too early, though; when we went in May the roses were'nt blooming yet) Oxford Botanical Gardens "the Backs" at Cambridge--gardens behind the colleges Queen Mary's Rose Garden in London Hidcote Manor (west) -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |Email: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 x 325 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!cs.uoregon.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail Thu Mar 3 13:26:42 EST 1994 Article: 27013 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!cs.uoregon.edu!usenet.ee.pdx.edu!not-for-mail From: klm@cs.pdx.edu (Kathy L. McRae) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: PawPaw Source Date: 24 Feb 1994 15:54:38 -0800 Organization: Portland State University, Portland, OR Lines: 16 Sender: klm@rigel.cs.pdx.edu Message-ID: <2kjenu$ou5@cs.pdx.edu> References: <660006@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: rigel.cs.pdx.edu Summary: Northwoods Nursery correction > >3. Northwood Nursery, 28696 S. Cramer Rd., Molalla, OR 97038 >phone (503) 651-3737 > I just started working for Northwoods Nursery last week. The above address isn't correct. Unfortunately, I don't have the right one with me, but they're on Ogglesby Road in Canby, Oregon, 97013. The phone number (I'm _sure_ of this) is: (503) 266-5432 They have PawPaws, but off the top of my head, I can't tell you which variety. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Thu Mar 3 13:26:43 EST 1994 Article: 27014 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!gumby!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.kei.com!eff!news.umbc.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: How To Kill Grass For Flower Bed Message-ID: <1994Feb25.001126.7693@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <2kaifn$dr1@crchh520.bnr.ca> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 00:11:26 GMT Lines: 18 In article <2kaifn$dr1@crchh520.bnr.ca> pattyb@bnr.ca (Patti Brown) writes: >What's the best (read least-back-breaking!) way to kill >bermuda grass in order to clear the area for a flower bed? >The area is approx. 8 ft. x 8 ft. Please post here. Sit down. :) To be honest, the only way to get rid of bermuda grass permanently is to loosen the soil with a shovel and then sit down and sift through it. Take out EVERY piece of rhizome and root or you will have a new crop very soon. Yes, I have done this with several flower beds, and they stayed bermuda-free (except for the odd volunteer seedling, easily plucked) for up to 15 years (longest observation). -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |Email: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 x 325 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!portal!cup.portal.com!Elise_-_Swope Thu Mar 3 13:26:45 EST 1994 Article: 27015 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!sdd.hp.com!portal!cup.portal.com!Elise_-_Swope From: Elise_-_Swope@cup.portal.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: PawPaw Source Message-ID: <104706@cup.portal.com> Date: Thu, 24 Feb 94 16:31:06 PST Organization: The Portal System (TM) Distribution: world References: <660006@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> <94053.144056U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> Lines: 3 I have no experience with paw-paws (and so, can not recommend a variety), but burpee has trees (bare root) in their catalog-- so there's at least one source. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!henson!n9348147 Thu Mar 3 13:26:46 EST 1994 Article: 27016 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!henson!n9348147 From: n9348147@henson.cc.wwu.edu (Katherine Livick) Subject: housepalnt\ Message-ID: <1994Feb25.003431.5958@henson.cc.wwu.edu> Organization: Western Washington University Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 00:34:31 GMT Lines: 11 Hi out there...I am new to rec.gardens and would like to ask those of you who might be regulars around here a g oops few questions. (Pardon my typos!) I am a big houseplatn grower and i am wondering if this is the place to post that kind of question--ie questions on culture and varieties of houseplants. Also, if not, are there any other Interenet groups for us "houseplant people"? bionet.plants is a bit more th oops! I mean technical than I am looking for. Thanks!!!! Katherine Livick n9348147@henson.cc.wwu.edu "The winter sun has teeth..." From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel!rat!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!intvax!bryan Thu Mar 3 13:26:47 EST 1994 Article: 27017 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel!rat!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!intvax!bryan From: bryan@isrc.sandia.gov (Jon R Bryan) Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Message-ID: <1994Feb24.164712.13064@isrc.sandia.gov> Organization: Sandia National Labs, Org. 1600, Albq., NM References: <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 16:47:12 GMT Lines: 22 wentwort@tiac.net (Dick Wentworth) writes: : I've recently moved to a new house and the garden bed has : a massive bumblebee nest under it. These bees attack me : and are quite unfriendly. How can I get rid of them : without ruining the garden soil itself? They're sleeping now : under two feet of snow, but that won't last forever :-) I believe that what you have at the moment is _one_ bee, the queen. All the workers die when winter comes. I saw it on one of the nature shows. You may be able to encourage the queen to find a new home come springtime. I'd wait until she came out and put a flat rock over the entrance to the nest. The queens can be quite belligerent all by themselves when they are starting a nest. We had one in our back yard that raised quite a ruckus if you came close. Just investigating where all the sound and fury was coming from apparently caused her to seek elsewhere for a home. -- Jon R. Bryan (505) 844-2015 <=> jrbryan@isrc.sandia.gov Intelligent System Sensors and Controls Dept. 2111 Sandia National Laboratories P.O. Box 5800, Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185-0949 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail Thu Mar 3 13:26:48 EST 1994 Article: 27018 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!samba.oit.unc.edu!not-for-mail From: Leonard.Holmes@launchpad.unc.edu (Leonard Holmes) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Squirrels get my Tomatoes Date: 25 Feb 1994 02:16:27 GMT Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. Lines: 11 Message-ID: <2kjn1r$7qg@samba.oit.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: lambada.oit.unc.edu I live in a wooded area and garden in a clearing. Every summer the squirrels discover my tomatoes just as they begin to ripen. I have been unable to keep them away, and I hesitate to build a complete enclosure. Has anybody had success with this problem? They eat the tomatoes green as soon as they reach golf ball size. -- The opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, the Campus Office for Information technology, or the Experimental Bulletin Board Service. internet: laUNChpad.unc.edu or 152.2.22.80 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer Thu Mar 3 13:26:49 EST 1994 Article: 27019 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!bbeer From: bbeer@u.washington.edu (Bob Beer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: passiflora quadrangularis Date: 25 Feb 1994 01:49:11 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 28 Message-ID: <2kjlen$516@news.u.washington.edu> References: <104562@cup.portal.com> <1994Feb24.125243.4154@lsl.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: stein.u.washington.edu In article <1994Feb24.125243.4154@lsl.co.uk>, wrote: >In article <104562@cup.portal.com>, mothra@cup.portal.com (Elise - Swope) writes: >> Does anyone have any experience growing passiflora quadrangularis? I just >> recieved some seeds from Thompson & Morgan. The catalog description says >> that the vine reaches 50 feet and produces 8 lb. fruit. I have several other >> types of passion fruit in my yard, and all are vigorous growers (but none as >> big as this). My question: what type of support do they need? I have 2 vines >> which have taken down branches of Koa trees (as sturdy a tree as you're likely >> to find), what type of support is required for quadrangularis? > The fruit is really 8 pounds. If you want fruit, make sure you have two plants, as they will rarely set fruit if not cross-pollinated. Many passifloras set better if they cross with another similar species, so P. alata, P. caerulea, or P. edulis would also be good. P. quadrangularis is a big, sturdy vine with simple leaves up to a foot long. You will want to make sure it has good support like a big arbor or something, I suspect, if other vines have broken your tree limbs. Passiflora seeds are notoriously irregular in their germination, so don't give up. A little bottom heat can't hurt. Regardless, you will sometimes get one up within a few weeks, or it can be a couple of months, and another one a month later, and sometimes they can take over a year. Be patient. Good luck! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!aq085 Thu Mar 3 13:26:50 EST 1994 Article: 27020 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!aq085 From: aq085@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Elmer Eng) Subject: Golden and Red Delicious Apples Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 02:33:14 GMT Lines: 5 Do any of you have suucessful experience growing golden or red delicious apples in Orleans or Ottawa area. I am interested. I want to grow one, but wonder if it is too cold here. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!bcm!bcm.tmc.edu!kyoas Thu Mar 3 13:26:51 EST 1994 Article: 27021 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!bcm!bcm.tmc.edu!kyoas From: kyoas@bcm.tmc.edu (Karen L. Yoas) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Using yard waste Date: 25 Feb 1994 03:25:35 GMT Organization: Baylor College of Medicine, Houston, Tx Lines: 31 Message-ID: <2kjr3f$7ps@gazette.bcm.tmc.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: bcm.tmc.edu Summary: compost, compost, compost Keywords: mulch, leaves, rotted firewood > I have about a dozen BIG bags of shredded leaves with no end in sight. > What is the best use of this stuff? Can I plow it under into clay and > dirt or should it be used on top? Is it usable at all? Yes! For wonderful compost! Layer the leaves/grass in an area about 4x4, layer with topsoil (for microbes) and alternate layers. I use cotton lint, algae from our pond, wood ashes and kitchen waste such as fruit and vegetable discards. Just don't use bones and fatty substances as this will cause smelly odors and attract varmints! Keep the pile moist and turn often. The more you turn the faster it decomposes. Steam coming from the pile when turning tells you the microbes are working away. You can even use shredded or torn newspapers (not the shiny stuff) as a layer. Earthworms will help in the decomposition as well. > The previous owners of the house left two huge piles of wood, but > when I seperated it out, about half was rotted and falling apart. > Can this be used in the same manner? It should be okay for compost so long as it is not walnut. Some say you can, others, no. The smaller the pieces the faster the decomposition rate. Wood can take a couple of years to fully decompose. > thanks for any advice. You're welcome! Hope I have helped. Easy Composting by Ortho could help you get started and provide more details even tho you will probably get a lot of people answering your post. Karen From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!lkinard Thu Mar 3 13:26:52 EST 1994 Article: 27022 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!dg-rtp!salzo!lkinard From: lkinard@salzo.Cary.NC.US (Lyric Kinard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Invasive Honeysuckle Message-ID: <7Dw0Hc4w165w@salzo.Cary.NC.US> Date: Thu, 24 Feb 94 17:30:53 EST References: <1994Feb23.155607.1082@gems.vcu.edu> Organization: SalzoBoard BBS * 919-481-3787 Lines: 2 Remember......Roundup is a systemic herbicide. It will only work when the plant is green and growing. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!taligent!ann-greyson.taligent.com!ann_greyson Thu Mar 3 13:26:53 EST 1994 Article: 27023 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!taligent!ann-greyson.taligent.com!ann_greyson From: Ann Greyson Subject: Re: Question? Potatoes Message-ID: X-Xxmessage-Id: X-Xxdate: Thu, 24 Feb 94 17:39:42 GMT Sender: usenet@taligent.com (More Bytes Than You Can Read) Organization: Taligent X-Useragent: Nuntius v1.1.1d17 References: <46.2d6474fa@axolotl> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 01:39:40 GMT Lines: 19 Subject: Re: Question? Potatoes From: Bob Batson, Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org Date: 17 Feb 94 15:39:05 CST In article <46.2d6474fa@axolotl> Bob Batson, Bob.Batson@mtask.omahug.org writes: >westendorf@cobra.uni.edu) writes: > > > I have alot of potatoes left from my garden last year, don't remember > > the > > kind. Can I plant them this year and get a new crop of potatoes? > > The potatoes are still firm and haven't been sprayed with a sprout > > control product. Thanks > >Sure! Treat them as seed potatoes -- plant tubers with 2 or more "eyes." > > Bob > Should I avoid planting them if they're a little soft but not rotten? From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!hudson.lm.com!telerama.lm.com!not-for-mail Thu Mar 3 13:26:55 EST 1994 Article: 27024 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!hudson.lm.com!telerama.lm.com!not-for-mail From: sbenton@telerama.lm.com (Scott Benton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rear Tine Tiller: To Buy Or Not To Buy Date: 25 Feb 1994 07:08:52 -0500 Organization: Telerama Public Access Internet, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 24 Message-ID: <2kkpok$bev@telerama.lm.com> References: <2kbrj2$neq@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> NNTP-Posting-Host: telerama.lm.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Dana C. Gould (gould@ixeab2) wrote: : Hi folks, : I've been toying around with the idea of getting a rear tine tiller. My : problem, cost of course. I have a front tine for my 3000 sq. ft. garden : that I've used for the past several years. I'm thinking of enlarging the : gardern to about 5000 sq. ft. and think that the rear tine tiller might be : a good purchase at this point. I've used my neighbor's Troy and loved it. : So, for my questions. I know Troy's are the best, but I can't see spending : $1000 for a tiller and I can't seem to find a used one. I bought a Troy-bilt pony last year and sent it back because it wouldn't till deeper than about 3 to 4 inches in very good previously tilled soil. And that's the cheep $1000 model. It's just not light enough to hold it back, because it has the forward rotating tines. So if you're going with a troy, you'd best go with one of the mega models. I will say that I've never been as disappointed with a product in my life as that troy bilt pony. -- Scott D. Benton Optimism indicates that the situation sbenton@telerama.lm.com has not been clearly understood. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!taspc1.larc.nasa.gov!d.c.gould Thu Mar 3 13:26:57 EST 1994 Article: 27025 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!lerc.nasa.gov!news.larc.nasa.gov!taspc1.larc.nasa.gov!d.c.gould From: d.c.gould@larc.nasa.gov (Dana C. Gould) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rear Tine Tiller: To Buy Or Not To Buy Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 08:37:17 Organization: NASA LaRC Lines: 27 Message-ID: References: <2kbrj2$neq@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> <2kkpok$bev@telerama.lm.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: taspc1.larc.nasa.gov X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] In article <2kkpok$bev@telerama.lm.com> sbenton@telerama.lm.com (Scott Benton) writes: >I bought a Troy-bilt pony last year and sent it back because it wouldn't >till deeper than about 3 to 4 inches in very good previously tilled >soil. And that's the cheep $1000 model. It's just not light enough to >hold it back, because it has the forward rotating tines. So if you're >going with a troy, you'd best go with one of the mega models. So are you saying that the counter rotating tines will till deeper than the forward rotating tines? I have been told that counter rotating tines work best for tilling virgin soil, but that forward rotating tines till deeper in soil that has been worked. I don't have access to the counter-rotating model so I have no way to compare. I've been looking at two less expensive models made by MTD. Both are 5 hp, the first has counter-rotating tines only and goes for $500; the second lets you run the tines in either direction and goes for $650. My question, is it worth the extra $? Dana Gould d.c.gould@larc.nasa.gov From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!wingnut!a-ehawl Thu Mar 3 13:26:57 EST 1994 Article: 27026 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!wingnut!a-ehawl From: a-ehawl@microsoft.com (Eric Hawley) Subject: Re: Tillinghast Seed Co. Message-ID: Organization: Microsoft Corp. Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 18:50:20 GMT Distribution: usa References: <2k4htf$kgf@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Lines: 10 In article <2k4htf$kgf@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> cw497@cleveland.Freenet.Edu wrote: > > I've been trying to come up with an address or phone number for > the Tillinghast Seed Co.without any luck.I believe they're loca- > ted in Oregon....Portland possibly.Any info would be a great > help. Thanks Dave There is a Tillinghast Seed in La Conner, Washington. I don't have their phone number or address, but I'm sure you could get that from MaBell. E From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson Thu Mar 3 13:26:59 EST 1994 Article: 27027 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!netnews.upenn.edu!dsinc!vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu!shrsys.hslc.org!carlson From: carlson@shrsys.hslc.org Subject: Best time to put up wren houses? Message-ID: <25FEB94.14105140@shrsys.hslc.org> Sender: news@vu-vlsi.ee.vill.edu Organization: MIT PLASMA FUSION CENTER Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 19:10:51 GMT Lines: 17 Last weekend, to try to get out of the winter doldrums, I went to our local nursery and bought two wren houses. The salesperson told me to put them up now. Well, folks, we still have over 3 feet of snow on the ground and the temperature is still below normal for this time of year and I really can't imagine that the wrens are thinking about setting up housekeeping right now. I read somewhere that birds generally begin nesting sometime in April. Is this correct? When would be the best time to put the houses up? Now? Late March? Whenever the snow melts? (the way our winter has been this year that may not occur until May!) Thanks for your suggestions... Karen e-mail: carlson@hslc.org From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user Thu Mar 3 13:26:59 EST 1994 Article: 27028 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ra!shiva4175.nrl.navy.mil!user From: karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil (Judy Karpen) Subject: Re: Square foot gardening /hoops Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: usenet@ra.nrl.navy.mil Organization: Naval Research Lab References: <1994Feb13.150816.22601@es.dupont.com> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 00:25:52 GMT Lines: 29 In article , dawyd@dorsai.dorsai.org (David Gurzynski) wrote: > > Thanks for that idea! What sort of hoops do you use? Plastic or > something else? > I use the heavy wire "double" hoops from Gardeners Supply in VT. They're essentially two long heavy-gauge wires joined at both ends (and maybe in the middle?) by ~6" long pieces. I'm sure you could construct an equivalent, but these were not too expensive and i'm too lazy/busy to experiment. They work well with the raised beds because the tension helps keep them wedged against the boards, but i'm sure they'd also work fine with gardens without "sides". To keep the row covers etc attached to the hoops i use plain old spring-loaded clothespins; get the good wooden ones, because the plastic ones break immediately and are too weak to really hold. Makes your garden look strange but who cares? Another use for these hoops is in a makeshift cold frame: make a frame out of 2x4s or whatever boards are easily available, brace the corners well, and lay the frame flat in a sunny spot. Put 3 hoops inside (add sleeves on the inside of the frame to hold the hoop ends if you can, since the hoops tend to slide sideways & collapse without dirt to support and separate them), and attach plastic or spunbonded covering with clothespins (preferably AFTER putting the plants inside ;^>). Hope this helps.... -- Judy Karpen "pushing back the frontiers of science...." karpen@nrlfs1.nrl.navy.mil Code 7675K, NRL, Washington DC 20375-5352 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!leo!swooldri Thu Mar 3 13:27:01 EST 1994 Article: 27029 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!leo!swooldri From: swooldri@leo.vsla.edu (Susan Wooldridge) Subject: Re: housepalnt\ Message-ID: <1994Feb25.143103.15635@leo.vsla.edu> Organization: Virginia State Library References: <1994Feb25.003431.5958@henson.cc.wwu.edu> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 14:31:03 GMT Lines: 6 What a privilege to talk to another houseplant enthusiast! Have you tried growing miniature rosebuses inside, by the way. I would love some input on what you're growing, favorites, etc! Rec. Houseplants sounds good to me. Why not start it up? Susan Wooldridge From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!yale!news.wesleyan.edu!eagle.wesleyan.edu!jbrooks Thu Mar 3 13:27:02 EST 1994 Article: 27030 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!yale!news.wesleyan.edu!eagle.wesleyan.edu!jbrooks Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: birdfeeder waste on the compost pile? Message-ID: <1994Feb23.195342.1@eagle.wesleyan.edu> From: jbrooks@eagle.wesleyan.edu Date: 23 Feb 94 19:53:42 EST References: <2kg39f$8ve@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> Nntp-Posting-Host: wesleyan.edu Lines: 13 I was going to dump the seed waste > on the compost pile, but read recently that birdseed is treated > with chemicals to inhibit growth -- I suppose so it won't sprout > before reaching the store -- and that the seed waste will > create compost that will inhibit growth! Not exactly what we > want! Can anyone out there validate this? Will the chemical > treatment of birdseed really remain active for that long and > not be weathered off? I don't know if it's treated, though I certainly don't doubt it. I have heard several times that sunflower seed hulls have a natural inhibitor that slows composting and sprouting so I just chuck my waste loosely into the woods. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!psl.wisc.edu!news Thu Mar 3 13:27:03 EST 1994 Article: 27031 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!psl.wisc.edu!news From: MULROY@EPISAS.EPI.WISC.EDU (ROBERT MULROY) Subject: Re: Squirrels get my Tomatoes In-Reply-To: Leonard.Holmes@launchpad.unc.edu's message of 25 Feb 1994 02:16:27 GMT Message-ID: <1994Feb25.161125.477@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu> Sender: news@pslu1.psl.wisc.edu (USENET News System) Organization: Univ of Wisconsin/Department of Preventive Medicine References: <2kjn1r$7qg@samba.oit.unc.edu> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 16:11:25 GMT X-News-Reader: VMS NEWS 1.24 Lines: 37 Leonard writes: > I live in a wooded area and garden in a clearing. Every summer the > squirrels discover my tomatoes just as they begin to ripen. I have been > unable to keep them away, and I hesitate to build a complete enclosure. > Has anybody had success with this problem? They eat the tomatoes green as > soon as they reach golf ball size. > I have the same problem, you could try covering your tomatoes with a light-weight frame & chicken wire, but I'm sure they'll figure out a way around that. The trick is to make it hard for them to get what you want and easy for the to get something else, (maybe a few ears of feed-corn, or a hopper full of grade b shell-on peanuts) One thing that really worked for me was a blond cocker-beagle who used to hang out in the garden just to catch all the delicious vermin that happened into it. She'd eat everything but the tail, and bring those to me. Approximately 30% of the tails were from squirrels, the rest were mostly rats. If you happen to get enough tomatoes to can, freeze or dry, get a nice little shot-gun, (perhaps a 20-guage or a .410) shoot a couple of those squirrels and simmer them with the tomatoes. Crush some fresh basil, rosemary, and marjoram together and add that near the end. You may never go back to beef. Here in Mad-town however, the killing of tree-rats is a capitol offense. So im left to bribing the things, fenceing them out, or tricking them into thinking that the food in my garden is bad. I've got a bunch of those little Thai peppers that I managed to overwinter. I can't wait to see the squirrells take a bite of those promising fruits! Maybe I'll get it on Video! Bob STANDARD DISCLAIMERS APPLY: OH! And I in no way advocate the luring of game animals with bait! From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!csn!cherokee!da_vinci!newsit.ecte.uswc.uswest.com!hogan Thu Mar 3 13:27:04 EST 1994 Article: 27032 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ncar!csn!cherokee!da_vinci!newsit.ecte.uswc.uswest.com!hogan From: hogan@newsit.ecte.uswc.uswest.com (Barry Hogan) Subject: Re: Using yard waste Message-ID: Keywords: mulch, leaves, rotted firewood Sender: news@da_vinci.it.uswc.uswest.com (IT Netnews) Nntp-Posting-Host: lookout Organization: U S WEST Information Technologies References: Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 22:08:43 GMT Lines: 31 In article , colten@cbnewsb.cb.att.com (marc.colten) writes: |> |> I am gearing up to try to put a garden in my yard this year. I have |> been busy cleaning up 2 years of yard waste with my armored battalion |> of machines (chipper/shredder, leaf blower, mulching lawn mower), |> and I could use some advice on what to do with the waste. |> |> I have about a dozen BIG bags of shredded leaves with no end in sight. |> What is the best use of this stuff? Can I plow it under into clay and |> dirt or should it be used on top? Is it usable at all? |> |> The previous owners of the house left two huge piles of wood, but |> when I seperated it out, about half was rotted and falling apart. |> Can this be used in the same manner? |> |> thanks for any advice. |> |> |> marc colten If only I had your problem!!!! By all means, find a spot and start a compost heap. Throw in the rotted wood from the pile, the BIG bags of shredded leaves, any "green" stuff that you can find (check with a supermarkets produce department) mix it all up, shovel some dirt over it, water it, and presto .... in few months (depending on conditions) you will have great black gold; just what every gardener needs! If you need more specific instructions on composting, send me some e-mail and I will find some articles to send you. Barry. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!othello.ucdavis.edu!ez042951 Thu Mar 3 13:27:09 EST 1994 Article: 27033 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!othello.ucdavis.edu!ez042951 From: ez042951@othello.ucdavis.edu (Chris Haskell) Subject: Re: Slow release Nitrogen Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Guru) Organization: University of California, Davis X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <1994Feb23.132808.27469@walter.cray.com> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 16:18:16 GMT Lines: 15 JSB Corp (jsbus@netcom.com) wrote: : gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) writes: : (...) : >Anyway I ask again to the net; why : >aren't fertilizers that : >are MOSTLY slow release nitrogen : >readily available? : Cottonseed meal? Soybean meal? Coffee grounds? What is the nutrient makeup of coffee grounds? Chris From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!an216 Thu Mar 3 13:27:10 EST 1994 Article: 27034 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!an216 From: an216@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Georgen Coyle) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Best time to put up wren houses? Date: 25 Feb 1994 17:05:22 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, Ohio (USA) Lines: 17 Message-ID: <2klb4i$l9o@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kanga.ins.cwru.edu I looked this up in Ortho's _How_to_attract_birds_. It said that it was best to have your birdhouses up by early fall, while the leaves are still on the trees. Evidently birds check out the shadiness of future nesting sites. Houses that are weathered are more attractive to birds, also So basically, houses should go up asap. And wren houses should be 6 - 10 feet above ground. I should take my own advice -- I haven't even made any yet! be welll -- Georgen Coyle * If thou wouldst into the infinite stride, Wooster, Ohio * Explore the finite on every side. * -- Goethe From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!unix.sri.com!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Thu Mar 3 13:27:11 EST 1994 Article: 27035 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!unix.sri.com!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Blueberries in SF Bay Area? Message-ID: <1994Feb25.165520.17479@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Originator: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences Distribution: usa Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 16:55:20 GMT Lines: 20 If anyone has experience growing blueberries in the San Francisco Bay Area (west Menlo Park, specifically), please tell me what varieties do best here. This is for a back yard garden, personal consumption, so I'm more interested in tasty types that produce for a longer period rather than varieties that bear heavily all at once. Do I need to plant rabbiteyes because of the heat, or will high-bush types do well? I have already amended my adobe soil with high acid compost and a little sulfur. I have room for only 3 bushes, so I need to know what kinds cross-pollinate well. Thanks for any advice you can give a transplanted Texan. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |Email: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 x 325 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!news.pipeline.com!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!vpn1 Thu Mar 3 13:27:12 EST 1994 Article: 27036 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!news.pipeline.com!malgudi.oar.net!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!vpn1 Organization: Penn State University Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 12:07:09 EST From: vince norris Message-ID: <94056.120710VPN1@psuvm.psu.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: tea leaves in garden? Lines: 4 I've read that used tea leaves are good for Azaleas. Are they good for plants in general, or only acid-loving plants? Advice appreciated. vince norris, penn state u. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ctc.com!news.cs.umb.edu!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones Thu Mar 3 13:27:13 EST 1994 Article: 27037 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ctc.com!news.cs.umb.edu!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones From: bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) Subject: Poison Ivy Message-ID: X-Disclaimer: Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of NVL Sender: usenet@nvl.army.mil Nntp-Posting-Host: 140.183.12.36 Reply-To: bajones@nvl.army.mil Organization: Night Vision Labs, Ft Belvoir, VA References: <1994Feb23.155607.1082@gems.vcu.edu> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 18:11:03 GMT Lines: 20 In article <1994Feb23.155607.1082@gems.vcu.edu> kwilliams@gems.vcu.edu (kathleen williams) writes: > >Poison ivy is tough stuff! I've found that using something like Roundup, >but at twice the recommended concentration, tends to do the trick. Remember >to *saturate* the leaves, especially the new growth! Alternatively, find >someone who is not allergic to it and pay them to dig/pull it up! > Is there such a thing as being not allergic to poison ivy? I've been told that people build up an intolerance to it, so they can be exposed to it once and not be affected, but following exposures produce more and more severe allergic reactions. Actually, my brother, a Forestry college graduate, told me this while I was scratching my poison ivy welts and protesting "I've never been allergic to poison ivy before!". -- Elizabeth Jones E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil "A home without a cat, and a well-fed, well-petted, and properly revered cat, may be a perfect home, *perhaps*, but how can it prove its title?" Mark Twain From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ctc.com!news.cs.umb.edu!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones Thu Mar 3 13:27:13 EST 1994 Article: 27038 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ctc.com!news.cs.umb.edu!hsdndev!admii!nvl-times!astro!bajones From: bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) Subject: Re: Virginia creeper Message-ID: X-Disclaimer: Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of NVL Sender: usenet@nvl.army.mil Nntp-Posting-Host: 140.183.12.36 Reply-To: bajones@nvl.army.mil Organization: Night Vision Labs, Ft Belvoir, VA References: <2kj7l4$63g@u.cc.utah.edu> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 18:15:39 GMT Lines: 22 In article <2kj7l4$63g@u.cc.utah.edu> jb6778@u.cc.utah.edu (Jay Brummett/Computer Services SLC Public) writes: > As a former Virginian now in Utah, I thought you might find >this a bit a bit of comic relief from the ongoing fight against the >CREEPER, and the honey suckle vines. In our local garden centers >VaCreeper is sold as a ground cover at $8.00 for a 6" pot. Just pot >the stuff up and take out an ad in the Salt Lake Tribune. A year after I moved to Virginia from Arizona, I mentioned to a co-worker that I'd like to grow "some of those pretty orange flowers" that I'd noticed the previous summer. "Not VIRGINIA CREEPER!" he exclaimed in horror, "That stuff is a WEED!" The weed is being sold thru every garden catalog I've received this year, but I don't think I'll be ordering any :) -- Elizabeth Jones E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil "A home without a cat, and a well-fed, well-petted, and properly revered cat, may be a perfect home, *perhaps*, but how can it prove its title?" Mark Twain From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet Thu Mar 3 13:27:14 EST 1994 Article: 27039 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!usenet From: saouc@uccmvsa.bitnet Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: When does gorse NOT bloom ? Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 12:07:19 PST Organization: University of California, Berkeley Lines: 19 Message-ID: <2klmbp$qij@agate.berkeley.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: largo.ucop.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In article , writes: > From: ua024@freenet.Victoria.BC.CA (Diane Whitehead) > Subject: Re: When does gorse bloom ? > Date: Sat, 19 Feb 1994 22:21:19 GMT > I learned as a child that "Kissing's not in season when gorse is not in > bloom:" Around here it is expected to have the odd bloom open year round. > -- Hi Diane - I'm wondering if this phrase is meant to be a joke? Gorse (Ulex europaeus) blooms Spring, early Summer, and again in Fall in Western and Southern Europe where it is native. Naturalized here on the West Coast of America, I guess we're lucky that it blooms almost year round!! Sean A. O'Hara, Oakland, Calif. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet Thu Mar 3 13:27:15 EST 1994 Article: 27040 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet From: white@eng.gtefsd.com (Lisa White) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Poison Ivy Date: 25 Feb 1994 21:10:04 GMT Organization: GTE Federal Systems Division, GSC Lines: 54 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2klpfc$giv@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> References: Reply-To: white@eng.gtefsd.com NNTP-Posting-Host: packard.eng.gtefsd.com In article 677@nvl.army.mil, bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) writes: > In article <1994Feb23.155607.1082@gems.vcu.edu> kwilliams@gems.vcu.edu (kathleen williams) writes: > > > >Poison ivy is tough stuff! I've found that using something like Roundup, > >but at twice the recommended concentration, tends to do the trick. Remember > >to *saturate* the leaves, especially the new growth! Alternatively, find > >someone who is not allergic to it and pay them to dig/pull it up! > > > > Is there such a thing as being not allergic to poison ivy? I've been > told that people build up an intolerance to it, so they can be exposed > to it once and not be affected, but following exposures produce more > and more severe allergic reactions. Actually, my brother, a Forestry > college graduate, told me this while I was scratching my poison ivy > welts and protesting "I've never been allergic to poison ivy before!". > Hi Elizabeth, Really if one was building an intolerance, they'd be affected the first time and become less sensitive as time went on. I have never heard of this with poison ivy, oak, or sumac. I haven't ever heard of it's being possible to accumulate it in one's system, either. But it is entirely possible to not be allergic to it. I was not allergic to it as a child, but have apparently developed a little bit of sensitivity as an adult. (I got a blister the size of a pea and really did not know what it was, until my SO said it was poison ivy. Didn't believe it until poison ivy medicine worked on it.) When I was a kid, I use to purposely walk barefoot through it and squash leaves in my hand as a demonstration of my not being allergic (smart kid.). As with all allergies, an allergy to poison ivy can come or go. Typically, allergies seem to come and go a lot for kids/young adults, and then settle down around 20-25. For instance, a child may be allergic and then grow out of it, or not be and then develop it as an adult. I've noticed this a lot with the people I know who are allergic to cats: they weren't allergic as children, but became allergic somewhere between 20-25. Or kids were allergic and grew out of it. I've known people to have a very wide range of reactions to poison ivy, from mild like mine to having to be hospitalized, though they couldn't remember when they could have touched it. (It doesn't help that while dogs aren't allergic, they can brush against it and you can get it from them.) So I guess most people err on the side of caution, not wanting to find out just how allergic they are. For getting rid of it: we had some vines growing around the foundation of our new house, and my SO (smart man, he) showed me his simple solution for pulling it with no risk of touching it: put your whole arm inside a plastic yard waste bag, pull the vines (dig up roots as much as possible), and with vines in hand pull the bag inside out over the hand holding the vines. Voila! Also be sure never to burn the stuff. The smoke is full of that nasty stuff and I have heard of a couple people who nearly died with poison ivy in their *lungs*. -- Lisa W. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!sarah!rpi!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan Thu Mar 3 13:27:16 EST 1994 Article: 27041 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!sarah!rpi!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan From: nathan@seldon.foundation.tricon.com (Number 6) Subject: Pygmy oak sprouted, where should I put it? Message-ID: <1994Feb25.064559.26968@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> Organization: Triicon Systems, Inc., Lompoc, CA Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 06:45:59 GMT Lines: 54 I mentioned a post here a while back that I have a "native" plant area in my garden where I put everything that sprouts w/o my intervention (besides weeds!) One person informed that these plants are probably not native, but transplants from other mediterraneanlike climates, which I agree with. However, now I have found a *true* native a pygmy oak, which, I have been told, only grows in select areas of California, like mine. The area around my home is an environmental preserve, specifically protecting the pygmy oak, and NO ONE, ANYWHERE is allowed to cut one down for ANY reason. (You should see the crazy arrangements they had to do at our last development CA has a space requirement for packing away from the oaks so their roots are not destroyed). Anyway, I would hate to kill my two new pygmy oaks they are about 1" high right now. I have seen them grow to 20' to 25' tall around here, some rare exceptions are nearly as big as full oaks. However, most are 15' tall. I have a small lot 8000 sq ft. that is mostly in "production" with citrus and other fruits. Any ideas on a suitable location? One place I could *not* use is the sidestrip between the sidewalk and the street. I'd be liable for damage to the sidewalk and street. I have one corner, about 8 ft' from a birch set of three would that work? Obviously, I'll have to sacrifice one of the oaks. My neighbors yard has one where I am thinking of putting mine, but I have the birch in the way. I don't plan on being here the 30+ years required for the thing to mature, but I'd hate to see it cut down after I leave. (They could probably do it because it would be known that I transplanted it...where it is now about 8 inches from my lemon tree well, it would be an interesting race!) As to how the acorn got into my yard, I'll never know. I guess a strong wind blowing in the opposite direction from normal. One final Q could I attempt to bonsai the one that I would otherwise have to sacrifice? That would be really neat, I think. (Now if I get a Santa Lucia pine in my back yard, I'll be in a real pickle. That one only grows in Monterey, San Luis Obispo and northern Santa Barbara county and is *super* protected, more than the oak, though they often grow together in the same forest). Thanks for any advice on protected plants and any tips on how to preserve my yard's natural state while still being able to use it for the fun stuff. (I think the oak would make a great focal point for my future landscaping plans as well.) *********************************************************************** Nathan D. Lane, VP Triicon Systems. Lompoc, CA (805) 7331849 NaN != 6, 6 == 1. I am not a number, I am a free list! I'm a programmer my computers are more valuable than my cars. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!sarah!rpi!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan Thu Mar 3 13:27:18 EST 1994 Article: 27042 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!sarah!rpi!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan From: nathan@seldon.foundation.tricon.com (Number 6) Subject: Success with my grapefruit, finally! Message-ID: <1994Feb25.065503.27006@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> Organization: Triicon Systems, Inc., Lompoc, CA References: <1994Feb25.064559.26968@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 06:55:02 GMT Lines: 43 Several months ago I posted about a problem with my grapefruit tree and my orange tree. Both had tremendous yellowing of their leaves and were losing a lot of leaves. I healed the orange by a good batch of iron and regular citrus fertilizer I just think it had real shock of transplantation and I should have removed the one orange it had on it as soon as I transplanted it. (After I did, and fertilized it, it took off and is growing like mad now that it has entered the rainy season here). The poor grapefruit is another story. So, I went out and bought a different variety, several years older, in a 5 gallon container as a kind of "control". I left it in the pot about 20 feet away from the sick one planted in the ground. Guess what? The potted one also started yellowing severely and losing leaves. What I did I moved the "control" to a warmer area (near my spa with supplemental lighting) and it it now turning greener and greener by the day. I moved it a week ago and it's doing great sending out lots of new shoots, with the current leaves turning green. Conclusion it's too cold in Western Sunset zone 16 to do grapefruit well. The one I have planted in the ground now will get a polyethylene hothouse for overwintering. Our lows drop to about 28 in winter, with highs varying from 55 to 80 during the winter (yes, highly variable). I think I actually live in a "micromicroclimate", as this area (in the environmental preserve mentioned in my previous post) has very different plants than just one mile away (but technically still Sunset zone 16). I think the planted grapefruit will do better when it gets older it has no bark whatsoever and is really young. It's starting to bud out a bit, but not in the way the "control" did after I moved it. (Strangely enough, my significantly older Mexican lime has done extremely well, even though that is the most sensitive of citrus according to the book on citrus). I guess the age really helped the lime or it's rootstock is tougher than I thought. (The lime has the most bark of them all, hence the thought it's probably older). *********************************************************************** Nathan D. Lane, VP Triicon Systems. Lompoc, CA (805) 7331849 NaN != 6, 6 == 1. I am not a number, I am a free list! I'm a programmer my computers are more valuable than my cars. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!sarah!rpi!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan Thu Mar 3 13:27:19 EST 1994 Article: 27043 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!sarah!rpi!psinntp!psinntp!daneel!seldon!nathan From: nathan@seldon.foundation.tricon.com (Number 6) Subject: If you build it... Message-ID: <1994Feb25.070448.27049@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> Organization: Triicon Systems, Inc., Lompoc, CA Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 07:04:47 GMT Lines: 33 Well, I saw once on this group "if you build it, they will come" in reference to earthworms and building in organic matter. I think my "soil" around here is probably the second worst kind (after pure clay) pure beach sand with ZERO organic matter. When I first moved in, I doubletrench dug in double the recommended amount of soil ammendments into our 15 by 20 vegetable garden area (had been a children's sand box). I expected nothing to come in the way of earthworms. And, it didn't happen for some time. In the fallow areas, I put all of kitchen wastes, like coffee grounds, vegetables (no meat, of course), paper towels (no chemicals), etc. When I was digging up the area to make an asparagus bed, I found LOTS of earthworms! In an area where none had been before, and I hadn't added any. I was so happy I ran to my wife and said "we have earthworms"! (And she said, "Great...now come in and change two day old Sarah's diaper for me.") ;) So, keep that organic matter flowing into your poor soil. It may take awhile over four months in my case but it works. I am determined to have nice, rich, black soil in a few years! (Yeah, right! But anything is possible with the right inputs). Fortunately, we have a commercial composting company near hear and I'll be talking to them soon about a whole boatload of their compost (they used to horse ranch, but found it unprofitable, and then turned to composting and are really making a good living out of it!) Plus, by using them, I'm pretty much guaranteed they will do it right, with the right temperature and all that stuff that I really can't afford the space or the maintenance to perform myself. *********************************************************************** Nathan D. Lane, VP Triicon Systems. Lompoc, CA (805) 7331849 NaN != 6, 6 == 1. I am not a number, I am a free list! I'm a programmer my computers are more valuable than my cars. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!pirates.cs.swt.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!kuht.uh.edu!mkorshak Thu Mar 3 13:27:21 EST 1994 Article: 27044 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!pirates.cs.swt.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!kuht.uh.edu!mkorshak From: mkorshak@kuht.uh.edu (Miriam Korshak) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: hollyhocks in texas? Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 21:10:17 GMT Organization: Houston Public Television Lines: 22 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.7.18.48 Summary: are they annual or perrenial in hot weather places? Keywords: hollyhocks, texas X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] I'm in Houston. I planted hollyhock seeds last November and now have nice plants growing along a brick wall with a southeast exposure. I'm pretty sure they'll mature and bloom before the hot weather gets to them in June or July. I've never tried to grow them here. In Southwest Virginia, they're a perrenial...just keep coming back. But I don't know whether it's the roots that are rejuvenating or what. question is this: When the hollyhocks in Houston finally keel over, if I just cut them back and leave the roots in the ground, is there hope they'll come back when it cools down? Or is it "back to the seeds in November" again? Correlary question: Lily of the Valley Has anybody EVER gotten a bloom from store-bought pips in Houston-type climate? I know they die in the hot weather...but I'm willing to replace every year if I could get blooms just one month! _ <_> Miriam Korshak (mkorshak@kuht.uh.edu) <_> KUHT - Houston Public Television From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!olivea!hal.com!halaus!arwen.hal.COM!not-for-mail Thu Mar 3 13:27:22 EST 1994 Article: 27045 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers.house Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!olivea!hal.com!halaus!arwen.hal.COM!not-for-mail From: phanes@hal.COM (Pamela D. Hanes) Subject: Re: Quick, Robin, to the Bathouse! WAS: Re: Birdhouse source, Purple Martins Message-ID: <2klptq$p29@arwen.hal.COM> Lines: 27 Sender: news@hal.com Organization: HaL Computer Systems, Inc. References: <2kg4u2$at0@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> <2kgi12$ofa@nntp2.Stanford.EDU> Date: 25 Feb 1994 15:17:46 -0600 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:27045 misc.consumers.house:48529 In article , CC wrote: >In article <2kgi12$ofa@nntp2.Stanford.EDU>, alpha@w6yx.stanford.edu (Alpha) >wrote: > >> suburban area. I've seen bathouses for sale at a "Scientific Store" in town-- >> I'm wondering if I would have any hope of attracting bats to this area! >> Would they tolerate living in the 'burbs? Also, I've heard that you need to "seed" a bathouse with some bat guano >> to attract the bats. Where does one get this? > >Try contacting Bat Conservation International in Austin, TX -- they should >be able to answer more bat questions than you ever wanted to know, and they >have a catalog of bat memorabilia and supplies, like bat houses. Sorry I >don't have the #, but Information will know. > -- CC Bat Conservation International 500 N Capital of Texas Highway Austin, Texas 78746 512-327-9721 ~Pamela -- Pamela D. Hanes (phanes@hal.com) HaL Computer Systems From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!portal!cup.portal.com!Elise_-_Swope Thu Mar 3 13:27:24 EST 1994 Article: 27046 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!portal!cup.portal.com!Elise_-_Swope From: Elise_-_Swope@cup.portal.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: passiflora quadrangularis Message-ID: <104793@cup.portal.com> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 12:17:25 PST Organization: The Portal System (TM) Distribution: world References: <104562@cup.portal.com> <1994Feb24.125243.4154@lsl.co.uk> Lines: 13 Thanks for the note-- i did, in fact, get the seeds from Thompson & Morgan (and several other varieties of passiflora as well). I live in Hawaii, where freezing is not an issue (although we did have a freak hail storm 2-3 weeks ago). In response to your question: the fruits are purportedly 8 lbs. each! Thus far, my other vines produce fruits which are about 1/2 lb. each (for comparison's sake); however, the vine itself gets to weigh quite a lot even before it sets fruit (believe it or not passion-fruit lovers-- many in Hawaii treat it as a weed-- when i bought my house, the previos owners pointed out the vine so I could take it down). In brief, this is their natural habitat, so it should do quite well-- but I am wondering what they typically grow on (and where the vine is native, if anyone has that information). Clearly a 50 foot wrought iron trellis is out of the question-- but i would love to give it a try. Any suggestions for support would be welcome. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!portal!cup.portal.com!Elise_-_Swope Thu Mar 3 13:27:25 EST 1994 Article: 27047 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!portal!cup.portal.com!Elise_-_Swope From: Elise_-_Swope@cup.portal.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: pruning hibiscus Message-ID: <104794@cup.portal.com> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 12:24:04 PST Organization: The Portal System (TM) Distribution: world References: Lines: 6 Once established, hibiscus is a very vigorous plant, and can be pruned severely (if desired). Most hibiscus are quite spindly if not pruned (I have one that's upward of 20 feet with a single main branch-- it's one of this year's projects). They are very responsive to pruning, and bush out nicely. Many people here (Hawaii) prune them to form a box hedge, or screen. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!portal!cup.portal.com!Elise_-_Swope Thu Mar 3 13:27:26 EST 1994 Article: 27048 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!portal!cup.portal.com!Elise_-_Swope From: Elise_-_Swope@cup.portal.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Compost mixer - where to find? Message-ID: <104796@cup.portal.com> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 12:33:04 PST Organization: The Portal System (TM) Distribution: world References: <2kinda$3eu@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> Lines: 11 Most gardening catalogs which carry composters also carry the "compostool" (e.g., gardener's supply co, smith & hawkins). I found it pretty useless (except for providing aeration)-- after the first season, the joints got stiff, and wouldn't open, rendering it fairly useless. Last year my husband got me a Kemp compost tumbler for my birthday : ) It works really nicely (but costs more than many are willing to spend). I have recently seen similar designs in plastic for about $100 (Gardener's supply has 2 models, Brookstone 1). I would heartily recommend it. Not only do you do away with the unpleasant chore of digging around in the compost, but it is finished in 3-4 weeks! (It also keeps rodents and stray roots from getting into your compost pile.) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet Thu Mar 3 13:27:27 EST 1994 Article: 27049 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet From: white@eng.gtefsd.com (Lisa White) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: rabbits Date: 25 Feb 1994 21:41:04 GMT Organization: GTE Federal Systems Division, GSC Lines: 35 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2klr9g$giv@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> References: Reply-To: white@eng.gtefsd.com NNTP-Posting-Host: packard.eng.gtefsd.com In article 220294094726@seberts.uoregon.edu, eberts@donald.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts) writes: > In article <2kacd9INNlbd@newsstand.cit.cornell.edu>, > md20@crux2.cit.cornell.edu (Molly Diesing) wrote: > > > Taking advantage of the "false spring" to see whether anything > > survived the extremely cold temperatures of the last month, I > > found that rabbits (judging from a tell-tale scrap of fur left > > behind) have eaten my swamp pink! Are there any effective rabbit > > repellants which I could use to prevent further damage? > > of the organic variety: > > predator manure; obtainable from a zoo, something like cougar or bear will > make any rabbit think twice about getting closer. > > blood meal; this has the side effect of attracting things that like blood. > > and of course, a dog! > I found "Rabbit and Dog Repellent" at a gardening shop here that worked great to get rid of a firmly entrenched rabbit. The ingredient list shows it to be 97% tobacco leaves and the rest is other organic stuff. It smells like mothballs to me. When the rabbit was out carousing, I doused his hole with the stuff and around my garden (I was really pissed at this rabbit because he snipped off the vines of three newly planted clematis!!). Never saw him again. I would use this for cats and dogs, too. Sorry, don't know the manufacturer, but it came in a 10 lb. bag, and was kind of granular. -- Lisa W. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet Thu Mar 3 13:27:29 EST 1994 Article: 27050 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!usenet From: white@eng.gtefsd.com (Lisa White) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Blueberries in zone 7? Date: 25 Feb 1994 21:45:01 GMT Organization: GTE Federal Systems Division, GSC Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2klrgt$giv@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> Reply-To: white@eng.gtefsd.com NNTP-Posting-Host: packard.eng.gtefsd.com I would like to grow blueberries here in Northern VA, where it can get quite hot and humid. I understand that there are some varieties now that were bred to be more tolerant of heat; has anybody seen any of these, or have experience with a variety that tolerated this kind of weather? Or seen an article, or some other source? Thanks for any info! -- Lisa W. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!oac4.hsc.uth.tmc.edu!NewsWatcher!user Thu Mar 3 13:27:30 EST 1994 Article: 27051 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!menudo.uh.edu!oac4.hsc.uth.tmc.edu!NewsWatcher!user From: cyn@odin.mda.uth.tmc.edu (Cyndi Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mache /Feldsalat Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 25 Feb 1994 21:26:41 GMT Organization: MD Anderson Cancer Center Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: yggdrasil.mda.uth.tmc.edu I had a leafy green veg last year in Germany that I was told is called "Feldsalat". I really liked it and have been trying to discover what it is called here. The closest I have come up with is "Mache", which I have never seen or tasted. Does anyone out there know it this is the same thing? Thanks. -- Cyndi Smith Computer Programmer Department of Biomathematics M. D. Anderson Cancer Center Phone: 713/794-4938 Fax: 713/792-4262 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!NewsWatcher!user Thu Mar 3 13:27:31 EST 1994 Article: 27052 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!NewsWatcher!user From: mhg3@cornell.edu (Mike Griggs) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Poison Ivy Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 25 Feb 1994 21:05:04 GMT Organization: mhg3@cornell.edu Lines: 24 Sender: mhg3@cornell.edu (Verified) Message-ID: References: <1994Feb23.155607.1082@gems.vcu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: 128.253.27.139 In article , bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) wrote: > In article <1994Feb23.155607.1082@gems.vcu.edu> kwilliams@gems.vcu.edu (kathleen williams) writes: > > > >Poison ivy is tough stuff! I've found that using something like Roundup, > >but at twice the recommended concentration, tends to do the trick. Remember > >to *saturate* the leaves, especially the new growth! Alternatively, find > >someone who is not allergic to it and pay them to dig/pull it up! Knowing that roundup is translocated into the roots where it does its deed I find that I can frill vines and use just a little roundup from a sray bottle to knock back the P-ivy growing around my apiary > > Is there such a thing as being not allergic to poison ivy? --snipped--- Actually I used to get poison ivy if I saw it along the road. My eyes would literally swell shut I was so sensitive. Since I worked outside and seemed to allways have it I finally got shots to desensitise myself and now after ten years I still don't get P-ivy even if I go out and pull it out of the ground barehanded. I did get a bad case once when I accidentally burned some and inhaled the smoke (which I suggest everyone try to avoid). Sumac can have a similar effect. (It is in the same genus -Rhus) -- Mike Griggs From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!openlink.openlink.com!lanslide!hls.com!jamesp Thu Mar 3 13:27:32 EST 1994 Article: 27053 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!openlink.openlink.com!lanslide!hls.com!jamesp From: jamesp@hls.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Ocatillo Cactus Message-ID: <1994Feb25.110121.1461@hls.com> Date: 25 Feb 94 19:01:21 GMT Lines: 11 I am writing for a friend, however I am curious myself. What can a knowledgeable person tell me about the Ocatillo cactus? Where can I find this plant in the San Francisco bay area? Should I look elsewhere? Any comments are greatly appreciated! thanks, James From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!kiwi!pat Thu Mar 3 13:27:33 EST 1994 Article: 27054 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!kiwi!pat From: pat@kiwi.sdsu.edu (Pat) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: gophers Date: 25 Feb 1994 23:06:04 GMT Organization: San Diego State University, College of Sciences Lines: 6 Message-ID: <2km08s$pf4@pandora.sdsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kiwi.sdsu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] Is there a FAQ on how to rid property of gophers? Thanks in advance for you answers. -pat pat@kiwi.sdsu.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv Thu Mar 3 13:27:34 EST 1994 Article: 27055 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!timbuk.cray.com!walter.cray.com!eastrg2!gwv From: gwv@eastrg2.cray.com (George Vandenberghe) Subject: Re: Signs of spring Message-ID: <1994Feb23.100709.14769@walter.cray.com> Lines: 30 Sender: gwv@eastrg2 (George Vandenberghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: eastrg2-gate.cray.com Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <1994Feb14.231456.11664@nicmad.uucp> <1994Feb17.191050.14976@gw.wmich.edu> Distribution: na Date: 23 Feb 94 10:07:09 CST In article , bajones@astro (Ebeth Jones) writes: |> |> Its been warm and balmy here in Northern Virginia over the past weekend, |> and for some reason making me think of the smell of orange blossoms, |> which I think should be popping out in Arizona at this time of year. |> |> |> |> |> |> |> -- |> Elizabeth Jones E-MAIL: bajones@nvl.army.mil |> |> "A home without a cat, and a well-fed, well-petted, and properly revered cat, |> may be a perfect home, *perhaps*, but how can it prove its title?" Mark Twain Here in the DC Maryland suburbs (Hyattsville) we have seen the mild weather but I still have ice on the north side of my house.The first yellow crocus has emerged from my sidewalk on the south side and some grass there is starting to green up. It remains to be seen whether the bermudagrass in some of my lawn winterkilled. But in shady areas, I still have frost in the soil below a few inches. Some springs I can plant early Broccoli and lettuce and other hardy crops by late February. This isn't one of them. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!sarah!rpi!newsserver.pixel.kodak.com!kodak!mailroom!stevem Thu Mar 3 13:27:35 EST 1994 Article: 27056 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!sarah!rpi!newsserver.pixel.kodak.com!kodak!mailroom!stevem From: stevem@mailroom.itu.kodak.com (Steve Mueller) Subject: Re: square foot gardening question... Message-ID: <1994Feb25.183605.16631@kodak.rdcs.kodak.com> Sender: news@kodak.rdcs.kodak.com (USENET NEWS) Organization: Eastman Kodak Company References: <24FEB94.14182514@shrsys.hslc.org> Date: Fri, 25 Feb 94 18:36:05 GMT Lines: 38 In article <24FEB94.14182514@shrsys.hslc.org> bshoop@shrsys.hslc.org writes: >I just finished reading Square Foot Gardening (on the strong comments found >in this group) and am going to give it a shot this year. In the book he made >a comment that the best mulch he found was carpet. I am not enamored with >having chunks of rotting carpet in my garden, but my wife suggested we try >astro turf. The green plastic stuff you put on patios, etc... I figure it >will not rot very rapidly, can be cut into square foot sections and pre-punched >with holes of the proper spacing for the plants. The other advantage is that >the garden will look all green and pretty even with no plants growing. > >Does anyone have any comments on my choice here, good or bad and why. > >Many thanks in advance.... post comments here please....have a nice day.... > >- Brian Shoop > Computer Services Coordinator > Weis Center for Research > Danville, PA 17822 Brian, I would recommend an organic mulch of some sort, straw,composted leaves and grass clippings for example. They will work just as well at keep weeds down and maintaining consistent soil moisture and temperature. The problem with something like carpeting is that it doesn't allow water and air to pass through to the plants roots as an organic mulch would. Also the organic mulch will break down adding nutrients to the soil. Personally I dont find that green plastic stuff particularly attractive :-). - Steve | Steven J. Mueller Eastman Kodak Company | | E-mail: mueller@pixel.kodak.com 1447 St. Paul St. | | Rochester, New York 14653-7107 | -- +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Steven J. Mueller Eastman Kodak Company | | Systems Engineer CD Imaging -- 3/12A/HE | | E-mail: mueller@pixel.kodak.com 1447 St. Paul St. | From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!news.Cerritos.edu!vax.cerritos.edu!swc!wndrsvr!johnm Thu Mar 3 13:27:37 EST 1994 Article: 27057 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!news.Cerritos.edu!vax.cerritos.edu!swc!wndrsvr!johnm Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bonsai trees Message-ID: From: johnm@wndrsvr.la.ca.us (johnm) Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 23:23:48 GMT Sender: johnm@wndrsvr.la.ca.us (johnm) References: <1994Feb22.001741.1@rosevc.rose-hulman.edu> Organization: WNDRSVR - Public Access for Southern California +1-310-370-3069 Lines: 22 pettitda@rosevc.rose-hulman.edu writes: > Does someone know anything about bonsai trees. I especially want to know abo > starting one from 'scratch'. What kinds of trees make good bonsai trees is t > main thing. Please send me as much info as you can. > Thanks > David Pettit > First try rec.arts.bonsai. Second. It is an involved process. Look for clubs/classes in your area. Third. Check your local library. Most have some books on Bonsai. Most will give you lots of the info you need. But IMO Bonsai is tough to learn even from the best books. John [*> Management may or may not agree with the above message. [*> WndrSvr in Southern California; Call +1-310-370-3069 -- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- John Marzolino 71242,1610 Compuserve Johnm@wndrsvr.la.ca.us Standard line filler From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!sarah!rpi!psinntp!psinntp!pbs.org!pbs.org!mpax Thu Mar 3 13:27:38 EST 1994 Article: 27058 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!eff!news.kei.com!ub!newserve!sarah!rpi!psinntp!psinntp!pbs.org!pbs.org!mpax From: mpax@pbs.org Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: help with ranunculus seeds Date: 25 Feb 94 11:53:54 EDT Organization: PBS:Public Broadcasting Service, Alexandria, VA Lines: 14 Message-ID: <1994Feb25.115354.1@pbs.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: nova.pbs.org I am trying to sprout some ranunculus seeds and they are being very stubborn. Does anyone have any advice? Or a source to buy the plants? I use the Gardener's Supply seed starters and all my other seeds are doing quite well -- bell peppers, container variety tomatoes, basil, nasturtiums and statice -- except for the ranunculus and the banana peppers. Both are being excrutiatingly stubborn. I planted them on Feb 11th. Do I just need to be more patient? Thanks for any help. --Mary **This is not cultural. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Thu Mar 3 13:27:41 EST 1994 Article: 27059 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mellingers? Message-ID: <36@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 25 Feb 94 23:15:03 GMT References: <2kdd2q$g3i@bigblue.oit.unc.edu> Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 36 > (material deleted) > As it is, right now I pay > White Flower Farm, Edible Landscaping, Antique Rose Emporium, etc., their price. > When you get their stock, it's *right*. (No, I don't work for any of 'em. > More's the pity - at least I'd get an employee discount...) > > Elaine Jackson > usual employee's disclaimers apply The odd thing is, my experience last spring was the opposite, in regards to White Flower Farm and Mellinger's. From Mellinger's, I received what I expected (in one case, more than I expected) based on the price, in good condition, with fine results. From WFF, I got one plant that was essentially DOA, another in poor condition (though it survived), and the lilies I received turned out not to be the variety I had ordered. My money was refunded (with a slightly skeptical attitude on the part of WFF) but the experience leaves me with a somewhat jaded attitude toward WFF and toward premium prices and lovely catalogs in general. But I haven't had to make a complaint against Mellinger's -- so I have no opinion on how they treat unsatified customers. Suffice it to say, even the premier mail order houses make mistakes and ship with less than sterling results. And perhaps even in mail-ordering, we should try to find sources as near to us as we can. (I live in SE Michigan, which is much closer to Ohio than it is to Connecticut.) -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com "Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn." -- Garrison Keillor From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!lynx.unm.edu!lynx.unm.edu!news Thu Mar 3 13:27:42 EST 1994 Article: 27060 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!lynx.unm.edu!lynx.unm.edu!news From: chendd@ug.eds.com (Diane DeMers Chen) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sowbugs, AKA pillbugs Date: 26 Feb 1994 01:53:16 GMT Organization: McDonnell Douglas Space Systems Lines: 57 Distribution: world Message-ID: <2kma2cINNimc@lynx.unm.edu> References: <1994Feb20.050814.25439@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> Reply-To: chendd@ug.eds.com (Diane DeMers Chen) NNTP-Posting-Host: enghpp5.ug.eds.com I've never found any evidence that they do harm. Recently Sunset had an article about sowbugs, saying that they generally eat decaying matter, but sometimes they can get out of control. I suppose if you had lots of rotting leaves, etc, supporting lots of pillbugs and then you cleaned up all of the detritus, they might attack living plants. Anyway, I remember that the article said that sprinkling a little corn meal will get rid of them. Apparently they like corn meal and gobble it up & then it expands inside them & kills them. Yuck. Anyway, to the best of my recollection that's what the article said. Diane |> |>In article ebmeyer@uiuc.edu (Barbara Meyer) writes: |>>In article , ruth+@cs.cmu.edu (Ruth Moabite) |>>wrote: |>>> |>>> My garden contains a veritable plethora of pillbugs. You know, those |>>> little crustaceanous bugs in the garden that roll themselves up when you |>>> touch them? I was wondering if anyone knows if these bugs are harmful, |>>> or beneficial, or neutral. |>>> |>> I've had them in my garden for years, and they've never done any harm |>>that I can see. They came with the house hiding mostly under the bricks |>>and stones that lined (and still line) most of the flower beds. I never |>>bothered to do anything about them even though in some years there's a |>>LOT of them. I didn't want to apply and poisons as they are everywhere |>>and I think it's been the right decision. I HAVE heard somewhere that they |> |>I seem to have a lot of problems with them on groundsitting tomatoes. |>They like to hide under to tomatoes (thinking they're bricks, I |>guess), then they get inside the tomatoes. Yuck. Now, I do realize |>that a tomato ripening on the ground will rot, but these guys get in |>as soon as the tomato hits the ground. (Funny thing I pulled up my |>last cherry tomatoes months ago and left them in a stack in the yard |>my wife went to the stack last week and retrieved four perfectly good, |>unrotted, redripe tomatoes from the stack.) |> |>Other than the tomatoes, the bugs don't seem to do much else in my |>garden. Just kind of hang out under the stepping stones. |> |> |> |>*********************************************************************** |>Nathan D. Lane, VP Triicon Systems. Lompoc, CA (805) 7331849 |>NaN != 6, 6 == 1. I am not a number, I am a free list! |>I'm a programmer my computers are more valuable than my cars. |> -- Diane DeMers Chen - chendd@ug.eds.com - (714) 952-6571 EDS Unigraphics snail-mail: 10824 Hope Street, Mail Stop 2N129, Cypress, CA 90630 #include From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!biosci!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Thu Mar 3 13:27:44 EST 1994 Article: 27061 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!biosci!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Anglophiles wanted Message-ID: <1994Feb26.012202.22238@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <1994Feb21.145133.4143@lsl.co.uk> <1994Feb22.084754.4145@lsl.co.uk> Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 01:22:02 GMT Lines: 45 In article <1994Feb22.084754.4145@lsl.co.uk> kevanh@lsl.co.uk writes: >Some of the RHS gardens will be of interest. > >Wisley >Woking >Surrey GU23 6QB >(0483) 211750 > >Rosemoor >Great Torrington >Devon EX38 8PH >(0805) 24067 > >Hillier Gardens and Arboretum >Jermyns Lane >Ampfield >Romsey >Hampshire SO51 0QA >(0794) 368787 > >I am only a new member of the RHS and haven't had chance to >visit any of these gardens yet. I think I said 'National' Horticultural Society in my previous post. Of course it's 'Royal'. These are all wonderful. Rhododendrons should be peaking in May. Go, by all means. You can do Hillier, Mottisfont, and Exbury in one day if you plan the visiting times right (buy the Open to View guide for British Castles and Gardens to check up-to-date opening dates and times). But you'll enjoy them more if you stay overnight at one of the lovely B&Bs in the vicinity. Another garden that isn't southern but is fantastic in May is Lea Rhododendron Gardens (Derbyshire, as I recall). You'd also do well to buy the Yellow Book and see what's open when you will be in England in the areas you want to visit. It's a guide to gardens on the National Garden Scheme (I think that's the title), private gardens open a few days a year for charity. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |Email: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 x 325 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ai181 Thu Mar 3 13:27:45 EST 1994 Article: 27062 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ai181 From: ai181@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mary Seal) Subject: Re: Anglophiles Wanted Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: ai181@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mary Seal) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <39166@mindlink.bc.ca> Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 04:20:08 GMT Lines: 48 In a previous article, Moira_Carlson@mindlink.bc.ca (Moira Carlson) says: >In response to Robert Teeter: rteeter@netcom.com who writes: > >>Hey all you Anglophile gardeners, here's your chance to express an >>opinion. We're going to be in England in May. What would you say are >>your five favorite gardens in Southern England (say, from Stratford south)? >>We know about the Chelsea Flower Show already. > > >Here is another vote for Kew Gardens. Kew is particularly handy if you are >staying in or close to London because it is on the tube line (Richmond I seem >to remember). The gate is within very easy walking distance. The most fun >is to make a day of it and come back by the river. Kew is right on the >Thames and the boats go (or they did when I was there) from the dock at Kew >down to the area near the Parliament buildings. > >-Have fun. >Moira > > > It has many years since we last visited England, but I do remember a few of the lovely gardens. Windsor Great Park in Berkshire. The rhododendrons and woodlands are marvelous, but even better is the hidden azalea garden. The perfume is heady. Hampton Court in Greater London. A Tudor garden. Syon House also in Greater London. The landscaping is by Capability Brown. Compton Acres in the Bournemouth area. Well worth the drive. It has seven gardens. This includes a sunken one and an Italian garden. I know there are plenty more to visit. Some of which have already been mentioned to you. Enjoy your trip. It is a lovely time of year to go. And if you happen to stay into the month of June, you'll see the roses coming into bloom. Colour is everywhere. I envy you. Mary -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ai181 Thu Mar 3 13:27:46 EST 1994 Article: 27063 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ai181 From: ai181@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mary Seal) Subject: Re: tea leaves in garden? Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Reply-To: ai181@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mary Seal) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <94056.120710VPN1@psuvm.psu.edu> Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 04:31:41 GMT Lines: 16 In a previous article, VPN1@psuvm.psu.edu (vince norris) says: >I've read that used tea leaves are good for Azaleas. Are they good for plants >in general, or only acid-loving plants? Advice appreciated. > > vince norris, penn state u. > My mother would always put the dregs (tea leaves) around the bases of her roses. I don't know what is in it, but the roses are very healthy. Maybe that was where Hybrid teas originated. (Joke |-) ). Mary -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ai181 Thu Mar 3 13:27:47 EST 1994 Article: 27064 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ai181 From: ai181@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mary Seal) Subject: Re: gophers Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 04:57:21 GMT Lines: 15 For quit a few years now there has been quite a lot of building going on in our area. Hense the old gopher has been driven into our back yards. It has been a battle of wits. We tries everything. And we were getting very desparate. We tried making a lot of noise with pots and pans; chicken wire, bloodmeal; fishmeal; repelant. We did draw the line at using moth balls. I phoned city hall, the Humaine Society, pest contol. We came that close to using a trap. One morning it was leaning up against our patio door looking into our dining room, staring at us. It is was goading us I'm sure. Then suddenly there it was. Gone! I have a feeling our neighbour put moth balls into it's burrow. I don't know. But I bet it will be back this year. Mary -- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!usenet Thu Mar 3 13:27:48 EST 1994 Article: 27065 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!usenet From: Roger Jones Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How To Kill Grass For Flower Bed Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 21:17:31 -800 (PST) Organization: Cyberstore Systems Lines: 8 Message-ID: References: <2kaifn$dr1@crchh520.bnr.ca> <1994Feb25.001126.7693@casbs.Stanford.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: cyber1.cyberstore.ca Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII How do you kill bamboo? The roots are IMPOSSIBLE to dig up and the bamboo seems to laugh at the herbicides which I have tried. The area in question is about 6'x3'. I don't want to neutrilize the spot unless something else will eventually grow there. Roger From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!mozart.amil.jhu.edu!blaze.cs.jhu.edu!zebra.cs.jhu.edu!surve_n Thu Mar 3 13:27:49 EST 1994 Article: 27066 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!mozart.amil.jhu.edu!blaze.cs.jhu.edu!zebra.cs.jhu.edu!surve_n From: surve_n@zebra.cs.jhu.edu (Naved A. Surve) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Flowers!! Flowers!! Flowers!! Date: 26 Feb 1994 05:53:12 GMT Organization: The Johns Hopkins University, Department of Biology Lines: 16 Message-ID: <2kmo48$592@blaze.cs.jhu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: zebra.cs.jhu.edu Please Help, For a project I need a list of as many different kinds of flowers as possible. Would it be possible for some kind soul to compile and send such a list? Obviously a complete list would be very long, but I would be happy with incomplete lists. Thank you, -Naved -- =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Naved A. Surve | The Johns Hopkins University surve_n@server.cs.jhu.edu | Baltimore, Maryland -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!nwnexus!bellevue-ip49.halcyon.com!user Thu Mar 3 13:27:50 EST 1994 Article: 27067 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!nwnexus!bellevue-ip49.halcyon.com!user From: ace@tidbits.com (Adam C. Engst) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Eliminating aphid infestation on willow tree Date: Fri, 25 Feb 1994 23:45:23 -0800 Organization: TidBITS Lines: 37 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: bellevue-ip49.halcyon.com Hi all, I've searched back through past postings in the WAIS database for this group, and I can't find any specific answers to this question, so I thought I'd ask in person, hopefully before it becomes a problem this summer. We have a large willow tree (40' tall perhaps - taller than the power lines) that was just covered with aphids last summer. We moved in last spring, and not being familiar with the place, didn't really notice until the middle of the summer when there were tons of the little blighters. The only thing I could think of to do was to hose them off the willow with the garden hose. That seemed to help briefly, but they always came back, and the tree is way too large to cover with the hose anyway. The colder fall and winter weather eliminated them, of course, but I see no reason they won't come back again next year. Can anyone suggest some way of controlling them before they invade the tree again? I've heard that ladybugs enjoy munching them, but also that ladybugs tend not to stick around all that long where you'd like them to. Could some sort of trap help? I'd prefer to avoid chemicals, partly because I'm just not all that fond of them and partly because I see no way of covering such a large tree. Many thanks for any suggestions! cheers ... -Adam PS: I must note that although this is very much a real question, I am writing a book about using the Internet and hope to use this question as an example of how people can find answers via Internet discussion groups. If you specifically do not wish a reply to possibly appear in the book, just say so and I will certainly honor your wishes. -- Adam C. Engst, TidBITS Editor -- ace@tidbits.com -- info@tidbits.com Author of the Internet Starter Kit for Macintosh -- tisk@tidbits.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!chrisgun Thu Mar 3 13:27:51 EST 1994 Article: 27068 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!microsoft!hexnut!chrisgun From: chrisgun@microsoft.com (Chris Gunnerson) Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Message-ID: Organization: Microsoft Corporation Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 00:03:19 GMT Distribution: usa References: <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> Lines: 16 |I've recently moved to a new house and the garden bed has |a massive bumblebee nest under it. These bees attack me |and are quite unfriendly. How can I get rid of them |without ruining the garden soil itself? They're sleeping now |under two feet of snow, but that won't last forever :-) If they are bees, there's really no need to kill them. They may be "lost" (I've heard this - I'm no expert). If you contact a beekeeping association/ club/whatever, you can find somebody willing to relocate the bees. I'm not sure how they do this (take out the queen & the others will follow?), so I'm not sure if this will hurt your soil (no chemicals, I'm sure). Don't know what to tell you if they're wasps.... Good luck! Chris From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!UB.com!daver!dlb!megatest!sfisher Thu Mar 3 13:27:52 EST 1994 Article: 27069 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!UB.com!daver!dlb!megatest!sfisher From: sfisher@megatest.com (Scott Fisher) Subject: Re: What to do with lawn? Message-ID: Organization: Megatest Corporation References: <2k2sop$gf9@apollo.it.luc.edu> Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 01:51:42 GMT Lines: 27 In article <2k2sop$gf9@apollo.it.luc.edu> rolson@orion.it.luc.edu (Rick T. Olson) writes: >I live on a treeless acre in the far NW suburbs of Chicago. Much of the >backyard is destined to remain treeless because of the septic field. I >have grass (of sorts) everywhere else. I am (nearly) of the belief that >if you are going to have a lawn, it should look like a golf course. On >the other hand, I'm not about to water that much and don't want to use that >many chemicals so I seek your input. What would you do with that much >predominantly clayey land? I await your suggestions....Rick Something I saw recently that looked intriguing was a maze. The owner of the property wanted to solve a water-usage problem (we're in droughtville Calif, were dealing with severe rationing...) It seems that the property owner had read a book on plant/landscape mazes, ran into or called up the author (who lived nearby) and they designed a maze, consisting of raised mounds of earth, about knee-high with some kind of fescue planted along the top. The grass was allowed to grow long, and draped over the mounds. >From a distance, it looked like mounds of dune grasses, very pretty. The maze was set sort of narrow, about single file. She said her kids loved it, and it was striking and very easy to care for. They buried either a drip-line hose or some kind of soaker hose along the rim of the mound, so watering was a breeze, and didn't use as much as a lown would have. There is supposedly some kind of book that outlines how to do this and other mazes, I could find the name of it if required. --Kim Fisher From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!conradr Thu Mar 3 13:27:53 EST 1994 Article: 27070 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utgpu!conradr From: conradr@gpu.utcc.utoronto.ca (c. richter) Subject: Re: Mache /Feldsalat Message-ID: Organization: UTCC Public Access References: Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 12:55:16 GMT Lines: 12 In article , Cyndi Smith wrote: >I had a leafy green veg last year in Germany that I was told is called >"Feldsalat". I really liked it and have been trying to discover what it is >called here. The closest I have come up with is "Mache", which I have >never seen or tasted. Does anyone out there know it this is the same >thing? Feldsalat often goes by the name of "cornsalad", at least it does in our catalogue. Conrad Richter From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!lsl!clarke Thu Mar 3 13:27:54 EST 1994 Article: 27071 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!uknet!lsl!clarke From: clarke@lsl.co.uk Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Ocatillo Cactus Message-ID: <1994Feb26.192244.4160@lsl.co.uk> Date: 26 Feb 94 19:22:44 +0100 References: <1994Feb25.110121.1461@hls.com> Organization: Laser-Scan Ltd., Cambridge Lines: 19 In article <1994Feb25.110121.1461@hls.com>, jamesp@hls.com writes: > > What can a knowledgeable person tell me about the Ocatillo cactus? > Where can I find this plant in the San Francisco bay area? > Should I look elsewhere? 'Ocotillo' is Fouquieria splendens, a prickly, vaguely succulent, non-cactus, plant. I don't know if this plant is ever placed in the genus Idria, along with its relative the 'Boojum' or 'Cirio', which is Fouquieria (or Idria) columnaris. Both are, I think, native to Baja California. I don't know about finding a specimen. I have small seedlings of both, recently raised from seed, but this is as far as my experience of growing them goes. -- Clarke Brunt (CCB), Principal Software Engineer, Laser-Scan Ltd, Science Park, Milton Rd, CAMBRIDGE, CB4 4FY, England. Tel (+44) 223 420414; Fax 420044, Email CLARKE@LSL.CO.UK (via BRITAIN.EU.NET) From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!mercury.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker Thu Mar 3 13:27:55 EST 1994 Article: 27072 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!kakwa.ucs.ualberta.ca!mercury.arc.ab.ca!rhea.arc.ab.ca!thacker From: thacker@rhea.arc.ab.ca Subject: RE: conflicting info Message-ID: <24FEB94.17542267@rhea.arc.ab.ca> Sender: news@arc.ab.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: rhea.arc.ab.ca Organization: Alberta Research Council References: Date: Thu, 24 Feb 1994 17:54:22 GMT Lines: 68 In a previous article, richards@spk.hp.com (Darrell H. Richardson) wrote: > Hi Folks, > > I ran across some contradictory info the other day and wondered if >anybody can set me straight. > It was my understanding that the American Chestnut has been reduced >to old stumps (alive) and young trees. After the young trees grow a >while they contract the blight and die. > The new info was in some post 1970's book (I can't remember which) >that claimed the blight does not occur west of the Rockies. Does >anybody know if this is true. > > Some interesting factoids (fact?/fiction). Close by in Idaho there >is a park that has a mature (50+ years?) chestnut without the blight. >I haven't seen it yet. > >Washington State does not allow Chestnut trees of any variety to be >shipped to it. This I know because my brother tried to order one and >was told that they couldn't ship it here. Could this be because the >blight can occur out west, but that there are still pockets it hasn't >reached yet? I love this topic! I've got a bunch of articles I've saved over the years at home...haven't looked at them for awhile but you've stirred my interest again. Anyway, to the best of my memory....yes it's true that the blight hasn't entirely crossed the continent. There are some trees out west that haven't got the blight yet...they are of course succeptible, but they are isolated protected specimens so don't have any neighbours to catch the disease from. I'd be very interested to here more about the one near you in Idaho. There used to be a grove in Michigan that was free of the blight, but I read a year or two ago that the blight has now affected it...they are trying to get rid of the blight from these trees, but that seems an unlikely prospect. Even within the blighted eastern part of the continent the chestnut still survives. They sprout out of old stumps and reach 20 feet or so before being killed, then send up new sprouts. Some do make it to fruiting size. In some areas of New England the chestnut once made up something like 1/3 to 1/2 of the forest trees, so it's loss really changed the make up of some of the forests. There have been efforts to cross the American chestnut with some of the blight resistant strains from overseas, but the problem here is that the overseas trees don't have the height needed to make them competitive in the North American forests...the crossed strains aren't tall enough so get choked out by the other forest trees. I recall some tree suppliers claiming that they sell blight-resistant strains of the American chestnut, but I have never seen a scientific report substantiating their claims. Still, there probably are a few chestnuts out there that do have genetic resistance. There is work going on to improve blight resistance but I don't recall what stage it has got to. As an aside....Dutch elm disease is following a similar pattern. It has done massive damage in eastern North America, but hasn't reached far western Canada yet. At last report I recall that the insect that carries the disease has reached Saskatchewan, but none have yet been reported here in Alberta (and we are looking for them). There is some question whether they can survive well in the cold prairie winters. So for the time being anyway, we have some lovely elm lined streets here in Edmonton (not as big trees as in the east, but quite nice anyway), and white elms continue to be used a lot in landscaping in the city, although I think paranoia about the disease is fostering a shift to more disease-resistant varieties of elm. Don From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf Thu Mar 3 13:27:56 EST 1994 Article: 27073 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!s850.mwc.edu!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: Bumblebees underground Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. References: <2k8f2c$i3v@sundog.tiac.net> Distribution: usa Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 17:57:05 GMT Lines: 18 stuff deleted >If they are bees, there's really no need to kill them. They may be "lost" >(I've heard this - I'm no expert). If you contact a beekeeping association/ >club/whatever, you can find somebody willing to relocate the bees. I'm >not sure how they do this (take out the queen & the others will follow?), >so I'm not sure if this will hurt your soil (no chemicals, I'm sure). > Beekeepers for the most part keep _honeybees_ not bumblebees. Adam -- =============================================================================== Adam Finkelstein VDACS Apiary Inspector 116 Reservoir St Harrisonburg VA 22801 703-433-1006 (V) 703-434-5607 (Fax) 703-564-4394 (Pager) adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu |Bees To Please| ================================================================================ From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!neoucom.edu!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!dwm7 Thu Mar 3 13:27:56 EST 1994 Article: 27074 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!neoucom.edu!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!dwm7 Organization: Penn State University Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 15:48:14 EST From: Message-ID: <94057.154814DWM7@psuvm.psu.edu> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: woodchucks and fences Lines: 5 I intend to fence in a 30x15 garden to keep out bunnies and woodchucks. How high should the fence be? I was thinking maybe three feet. Can woodchucks climb? Any other advice or suggestions greatly appreced. D.W. Moore -- State College PA From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utzoo!telly!moore!eastern!botanika Thu Mar 3 13:27:58 EST 1994 Article: 27075 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!utzoo!telly!moore!eastern!botanika From: botanika@eastern.eastern.com (botanika) Subject: Job's Tears Organization: Public Affairs Services, Toronto CAN Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 16:42:28 GMT Message-ID: Sender: bbs@eastern.com Lines: 9 Job's Tears is an annual ornamental grass easily grown from seed. The name is _Coix lachrymae_ Stokes Seeds in St-Catherines, Ontario has it very cheap. They have a U.S. address but I can't remember it. There phone # is (905) 688-4300 I'm sure they'll give the U.S. number Harold From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!nwnexus!bellevue-ip6.halcyon.com!user Thu Mar 3 13:27:59 EST 1994 Article: 27076 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uunet!nwnexus!bellevue-ip6.halcyon.com!user From: ace@tidbits.com (Adam C. Engst) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: woodchucks and fences Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 13:37:09 -0800 Organization: TidBITS Lines: 17 Message-ID: References: <94057.154814DWM7@psuvm.psu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bellevue-ip6.halcyon.com In article <94057.154814DWM7@psuvm.psu.edu>, wrote: > I intend to fence in a 30x15 garden to keep out bunnies and woodchucks. How > high should the fence be? I was thinking maybe three feet. Can woodchucks > climb? Any other advice or suggestions greatly appreced. > > D.W. Moore -- State College PA I wouldn't worry too much about the height as the depth. Both rabbits and woodchucks can quite easily dig four to six inches down to go under a fence if they want to... cheers ... -Adam -- Adam C. Engst, TidBITS Editor -- ace@tidbits.com -- info@tidbits.com Author of the Internet Starter Kit for Macintosh -- tisk@tidbits.com From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Thu Mar 3 13:28:01 EST 1994 Article: 27077 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Message-ID: <9402262247.AA14260@im8> Subject: Re: Pruning blackberries Date: Sat, 26 Feb 94 17:47:11 EST X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA23947; Sat, 26 Feb 94 14:45:18 -0800 X-Received: from IM.LCS.MIT.EDU by inet-gw-1.pa.dec.com (5.65/13Jan94) id AA03477; Sat, 26 Feb 94 14:44:56 -0800 X-Received: from im8 (IM8.LCS.MIT.EDU) by im (4.1/TOC-1.1S) id AA16268; Sat, 26 Feb 94 17:47:19 EST X-Received: by im8 (4.1/TOC-1.1C) id AA14260; Sat, 26 Feb 94 17:47:11 EST X-To: rec.gardens.usenet Lines: 31 In article: <2kdheb$lu9@news.cerf.net> dschneid@class.class.org (Deb Schneider) asks: >We have several newly planted (last spring) blackberry brambles. I had >heard they should be pruned back in late winter. Anyone know if this is >true and if so how much pruning should be done? Since blackberries make berries on the side brances of canes (plants) that grew last summer, you should nip back the end about 1/3 of its length which will cause it to put out more and stronger side branches. After you have harvested the berries, those canes will look very worn-out and the leaves will start to yellow. Then you can cut them back to the ground which will give the new canes which are sprouting up from the ground more air and sunshine. It is really easy. If you don't cut them back in the srping, you will still get berries but maybe not as many. If you don't cut out the old used-up canes, you will still get new canes but you will end up with a tangle of dead and live canes mixed and the thorns on the dead canes are even worse than those on the live canes (unless you have the thornless variety). It is really hard to go wrong with blackberries so long as they get enough sun and moisture. --Jill P.S. I prefer to pick wild berries over grow tame ones, but as our world gets more and more crowded that is getting harder to do. Sigh. A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Thu Mar 3 13:28:02 EST 1994 Article: 27078 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Message-ID: <9402262247.AA14265@im8> Subject: Composting toner? Date: Sat, 26 Feb 94 17:47:37 EST X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA24241; Sat, 26 Feb 94 14:50:43 -0800 X-Received: from IM.LCS.MIT.EDU by inet-gw-1.pa.dec.com (5.65/13Jan94) id AA03503; Sat, 26 Feb 94 14:45:24 -0800 X-Received: from im8 (IM8.LCS.MIT.EDU) by im (4.1/TOC-1.1S) id AA16271; Sat, 26 Feb 94 17:47:44 EST X-Received: by im8 (4.1/TOC-1.1C) id AA14265; Sat, 26 Feb 94 17:47:37 EST X-To: rec.gardens.usenet Lines: 27 I have a question about composing which perhaps Mr. Compost or some chemists among you rec.gardeners would like to take a stab at. I have a laser printer which generates little plastic bottles of used toner. I know that the major ingredient in this toner is pure carbon. The other moajor ingredient is iron oxide. Niether of these tow ingredients is substancially toxic and should compost just fine given enough nitrogen. It's is the other ingredients and possible contamination from the drum which are holding me back from adding this stuff to my compost pile. The other ingredients are: Styrene acrylate copolymer (27136-15-8), and pigments (84179-66-8), (109125-50-0), (109125-51-1), and (42405-40-3). I am sure that there is a way to look up the toxicity, etc. of these numbered ingredients, but where. Does anyone know "off the top of their head" (:') whelthr I can use it or should toss it? One year I took it to the hazerdous waste day, but I sort of suspect that that was being overly cautious. It LOOKS like it should be OK. Can anyone help? --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller Thu Mar 3 13:28:03 EST 1994 Article: 27079 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!pacbell.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!im.lcs.mit.edu!dmiller From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) Message-ID: <9402262248.AA14270@im8> Subject: Re: Best time to put up wren houses? Date: Sat, 26 Feb 94 17:48:12 EST X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA24266; Sat, 26 Feb 94 14:51:02 -0800 X-Received: from IM.LCS.MIT.EDU by inet-gw-1.pa.dec.com (5.65/13Jan94) id AA03533; Sat, 26 Feb 94 14:45:56 -0800 X-Received: from im8 (IM8.LCS.MIT.EDU) by im (4.1/TOC-1.1S) id AA16274; Sat, 26 Feb 94 17:48:20 EST X-Received: by im8 (4.1/TOC-1.1C) id AA14270; Sat, 26 Feb 94 17:48:12 EST X-To: rec.gardens.usenet Lines: 51 In article: <25FEB94.14105140@shrsys.hslc.org> carlson@shrsys.hslc.org askes: >Last weekend, to try to get out of the winter doldrums, I went to our >local nursery and bought two wren houses. The salesperson told me to >put them up now. Well, folks, we still have over 3 feet of snow on the >ground and the temperature is still below normal for this time of year >and I really can't imagine that the wrens are thinking about setting >up housekeeping right now. I read somewhere that birds generally begin >nesting sometime in April. Is this correct? When would be the best >time to put the houses up? Now? Late March? Whenever the snow melts? >(the way our winter has been this year that may not occur until May!) I assume that you are not far from MIT so are in eastern MA or southern NH. My personal record over the past five years indicates that house wrens (the most common kind) arrive in the western suburbs of the Boston area (Natick, Sudbury, etc.) about the first of May (+/- 5 days). However, Carolina wrens, which have been increasing in our area, are year-round residents. So, you could wade through the snow to put up your house immediately, or you could wait until the middle of April and do it in relative comfort. You may not even get a resident for your wren house the first year. If you put up two and you do get a wren, the male will likely fill the second with sticks to keep other wrens from nesting too close. I know a lot about this from monitoring a bluebird trail. At least, with wren houses you don't have to worry about house sparrows taking over the box. :'( BTW, if your houses do not have a way to remove the roof or a side for monitoring and cleaning you should return them. If you can't clean out the old nest, the house fills up and won't be used the second year. Too many birdhouses are built to look cute for consumers and are uninteresting or, worse yet, useless to the birds. I've seen lots of birdhouses with the entrace hole near the bottom (looks more like a human house, but not what the birds want or need). I would be glad to correspond further with others on this subject, or call me at the number below and talk live. I love to talk about birdhouses and birds. Chickadees, titmice and cardinals are singing their spring songs. Redwinged blackbirds should be back as soon as we get our next thaw. (Ohter years they have been back by now.) The light is visible at the end of the tunnel! Spring soon. --Jill A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah Thu Mar 3 13:28:05 EST 1994 Article: 27080 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!amiserv!vpnet!smith!leah From: leah@smith.CHI.IL.US (L.A.Z. Smith) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: damping off Keywords: damping off Message-ID: <1365@smith.CHI.IL.US> Date: 26 Feb 94 17:25:58 GMT References: Reply-To: leah@smith.chi.il.us (L.A.Z. Smith) Distribution: usa Organization: R. H. E. Smith Corp., Wheeling, IL Lines: 23 In article dlau@eden.rutgers.edu (Dana Lau) writes: >I am getting ready to start my spring seedlings but I always lose a bunch with damping off. What are some ways of preventing this? Am I watering too much? After this winter I would love to get a jump on Spring! We just covered this in Master Gardener class. 1) Make sure all containers and utensils are sterile. (Wash with bleach solution.) 2) Use a sterile soilless mix, not potting soil or earth from the garden, for starting seeds. 3) Make sure you remove any covers and place the seedlings where they get plenty of air as soon as they germinate. Don't water too much. 4) For extra insurance, you can use a fungicide (like Captan) as a soil drench. (In my personal gardening, I use a mild solution of this as a mist in a spray bottle.) I also find that using distilled water helps. Good luck! Leah Smith leah@smith.chi.il.us From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!kuhub.cc.ukans.edu!lsmith Thu Mar 3 13:28:06 EST 1994 Article: 27081 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!kuhub.cc.ukans.edu!lsmith From: lsmith@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Ficus Tree : Can I replant cuttings? Message-ID: <1994Feb26.180423.59515@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu> Date: 26 Feb 94 18:04:23 CST References: Organization: University of Kansas Academic Computing Services Lines: 21 In article , Kristin.Ross@DaytonOH.NCR.COM (Kristin Ross) writes: > > I have a seven foot indoor ficus tree (not sure exactly what kind) that I > pruned this weekend. I have three or four rather large cuttings as a result, > and I'd like to start some new plants if possible. Right now the cuttings are > in water. > > If I leave them in the water, will they grow roots? Can I just plant them > in soil the way they are? (Try to curb your laughter, I know nothing about > plants!) > > Please let me know if you are aware of a way to make new little trees from > these cuttings. Thanks for your help! > > My dad discovered (ok, "rediscovered") that if you put ficus cuttings directly in soil they will often take root. It doesn't seem to take root if you put it in water only. And it has to be a decent size cutting... at least 1 cm in diameter. He would just stick them into the ground in the garden and they'd take off! good luck! -LSmith@KUHUB From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!coltrane!evdl Thu Mar 3 13:28:07 EST 1994 Article: 27082 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!coltrane!evdl From: evdl@cwa.com (Eunice Van der Linden) Subject: Re: inhospitable roses? Message-ID: Sender: news@cwa.com Reply-To: evdl@cwa.com Organization: CWA Communications Products, Inc. References: <2kh1lj$t1l@news.cerf.net> Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 03:04:30 GMT Lines: 10 gwen@class.class.org (Gwen Dandridge) wrote: >There is a problem that is not just lack of nutrients - the soil is called >rose sick - they think is may be nematodes in the ground but are not sure. >Remove the soil from the area replace with one part humus to three parts >good soil or sterize the dirt. This only applies to new roses in old rose >ground. I seem to remember reading somewhere that to get rid of nematodes you should plant marigolds. They take them up in their roots so you can dispose of them with the plant. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Thu Mar 3 13:28:09 EST 1994 Article: 27083 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Mothballs in the Garden Message-ID: <1994Feb27.005649.4387@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <2kdmq5$lp0@newscast.West.Sun.COM> Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 00:56:49 GMT Lines: 18 In article <2kdmq5$lp0@newscast.West.Sun.COM> nann@nosun.West.Sun.COM writes: >My neighbor has recently spread mothballs over an area adjoining our yard, >in an effort to discourage cats from using it as a bathroom. >I was wondering if anyone knew what kind of effect this would have on any >plants in the area as well as toxic effects on children and pets? >Will they eventually dissolve? They evaporate in a week or so. It usually takes several weeks or months to discourage the cats from coming back. I have seen no ill effects to plants; pets avoid the mothballs; we don't have any small children nearby. I suppose they would be harmful to children if ingested. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |Email: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 x 325 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Thu Mar 3 13:28:11 EST 1994 Article: 27084 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Vine for gate?? Message-ID: <1994Feb27.010831.4484@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 01:08:31 GMT Lines: 32 In article cyn@odin.mda.uth.tmc.edu (Cyndi Smith) writes: >I have a wrought iron gate across my driveway. I would like to make it >prettier by covering it with some sort of vine - preferably an evergreen or >semi-evergreen (remember, it usually only freezes a few times a year in >Houston) and with flowers at least some of the time. >As I see it, these are the considerations: >1) zone 8/9, <20 freezing days per year (usually) >2) humid, hot summers (often little or no rain with temps >95F in July - >August) >3) southern exposure - LOTS of afternoon sun, especially in summer >4) evergreen or semi-evergreen (hardy perennial?) >5) the vine will be growing from a patch of ground at the pivot point of >the gate so will need to be able to take the strain, but not be so heavy as >to weigh down the gate >6) pretty flowers would be nice > >Am I wishing for a star, or does someone out there have a suggestion for >me? I'd try star jasmine (Confederate jasmine). It grows beautifully in Houston, has sweet and pretty flowers, and is tough but flexible. Let us know if it works--I've never seen a vine that had to swing on a gate several times a day. Morning glories might work, too, but they are annuals. Honeysuckle is another possibility. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |Email: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 x 325 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen Thu Mar 3 13:28:18 EST 1994 Article: 27085 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!headwall.Stanford.EDU!casbs!kathleen From: kathleen@casbs.Stanford.EDU (Kathleen Much) Subject: Re: Signs of spring Message-ID: <1994Feb27.012049.4613@casbs.Stanford.EDU> Sender: news@casbs.Stanford.EDU (CASBS News Service) Organization: Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences References: <1994Feb21.200749.15084@wmichgw> <1994Feb23.191048.26495@news.cs.brandeis.edu> Distribution: na Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 01:20:49 GMT Lines: 29 It's raining again in California, and that's good, even though it will keep me out of the garden this weekend. Fruit (mostly plum) trees have been blooming for a couple of weeks, along with acacias (but my apricot and cherry trees are still bare sticks--they bloom later). Raspberries are leafing out. The muscari and candytuft make a vivid bed, drawing attention away from the pruned roses, which are just leafing out. My lavender primroses blend nicely with blue and lavender rosemary, bright blue forget-me-nots, pale blue Felicia, and blue hibiscus (which actually has vibrant purple flowers). The pink New Zealand tea tree contrasts nicely with the pale and deep blue ceanothus. My daffodils and tulips have nice foliage but no flowers yet. No sign of the cute species tulips, though. Camellias are still in full bloom. Geraniums (not pelargoniums) are beginning to bloom. I still have one David Austin rose to prune--Wife of Bath has half a dozen blooms still going, and I haven't had the heart to cut her back. As for the veggies, the sugar peas are in bloom, and we're still harvesting arugula, lettuce, cilantro, spinach, mustard, and mizuna. Of course, it's nearly always spring near San Francisco. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Kathleen Much, Editor |Email: kathleen@casbs.stanford.EDU CASBS, 202 Junipero Serra Blvd. |Phone: (415) 321-2052 x 325 Stanford, CA 94305 |Fax: (415) 321-1192 From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!nwnexus!ole!rwing!eskimo!tinne Thu Mar 3 13:28:19 EST 1994 Article: 27086 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!nwnexus!ole!rwing!eskimo!tinne From: tinne@eskimo.com (Susan Profit) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: PawPaw Source Message-ID: Date: 25 Feb 94 23:50:02 GMT References: <660006@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> Organization: Eskimo North (206) For-Ever Lines: 6 <94053.144056U14371@uicvm.uic.edu> <104706@cup.portal.com> Organization: Eskimo North (206) For-Ever Hi. Raintree Nursery in Morton WA carries these. Tinne@eskimo.com ;-) :-D Laughter Heals From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!nwnexus!ole!rwing!eskimo!tinne Thu Mar 3 13:28:19 EST 1994 Article: 27087 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!cyber2.cyberstore.ca!nwnexus!ole!rwing!eskimo!tinne From: tinne@eskimo.com (Susan Profit) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Compost mixer - where to find? Message-ID: Date: 25 Feb 94 23:53:25 GMT References: Organization: Eskimo North (206) For-Ever Lines: 2 Hi. Park's Seed in Greenwood SC also carries them for $14.50 in last fall's cat. 1-800-845-3369 Tinne@eskimo.com ;-) :-D Laughter Heals From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Thu Mar 3 13:28:21 EST 1994 Article: 27088 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: If you build it... Message-ID: <38@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 26 Feb 94 23:34:19 GMT References: <1994Feb25.070448.27049@daneel.foundation.tricon.com> Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 27 nathan@seldon.foundation.tricon.com (Number 6) writes: > Well, I saw once on this group "if you build it, they will come" in > reference to earthworms and building in organic matter. I think my > "soil" around here is probably the second worst kind (after pure clay) > pure beach sand with ZERO organic matter. I used to feel the same way, while I was battling clay in big, blue, gluey chunks, but now that I live atop an 'ancient beach ridge' (five feet plus of layered sand and loamy sand) I've changed my mind. Once you get that clay loosened up, it's wonderful stuff, but sand is thirsty. I'd make it a toss-up. At least I no longer need aassistance digging holes. Lucky you to have access to mass quantities of well-made compost. We make our own and use it as fast as we can make it. We shredded hundreds of bags of leaves in October to store for mulching and composting next summer. We have to keep those worms happy... -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com "Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn." -- Garrison Keillor From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Thu Mar 3 13:28:22 EST 1994 Article: 27089 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: square foot gardening question... Message-ID: <39@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 26 Feb 94 23:34:20 GMT References: <24FEB94.14182514@shrsys.hslc.org> <1994Feb25.183605.16631@kodak.rdcs.kodak.com> Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 43 stevem@mailroom.itu.kodak.com (Steve Mueller) writes: > In article <24FEB94.14182514@shrsys.hslc.org> bshoop@shrsys.hslc.org writes: > >I just finished reading Square Foot Gardening (on the strong comments found > >in this group) and am going to give it a shot this year. In the book he made > >a comment that the best mulch he found was carpet. I am not enamored with > >having chunks of rotting carpet in my garden... > >(material deleted) > >Does anyone have any comments on my choice here, good or bad and why. > > > > Brian, > I would recommend an organic mulch of some sort, straw,composted leaves and grass > clippings for example. They will work just as well at keep weeds down and > maintaining consistent soil moisture and temperature. The problem with something > like carpeting is that it doesn't allow water and air to pass through to the > plants roots as an organic mulch would. Also the organic mulch will break down > adding nutrients to the soil. Personally I dont find that green plastic stuff > particularly attractive :-). > I'm not sure of the exact application Mel B. had in mind for carpet as mulch, but I use it myself to mulch the paths between permanent raised beds. Most carpet these days is made of synthetic fibers, and doesn't actually 'rot' in the garden. When used with the pile facing DOWN, even scraps of carpet of wildy different colors and styles ends up looking quite uniform. It's surface dries quickly, it is comfortable underfoot, and is much loved by earthworms and shunned by earwigs and slugs. It doesn't smother the soil like plastic, blows around only in the fiercest wind (a few bricks can take care of that). I stick to organic mulches on the beds themselves, but for paths, carpet can't be topped, and it is FREE. What I haven't salvaged from my own renovations, I've acquired from curbsides all over town -- on trash day. Carpet will eventually begin to unravel, at which point, I replace it. It just took a 'detour' on the way to the landfill... -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com "Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn." -- Garrison Keillor From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl2.crl.com!not-for-mail Thu Mar 3 13:28:22 EST 1994 Article: 27090 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl2.crl.com!not-for-mail From: hempster@crl.com (Alan Silverman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pruning blackberries Date: 26 Feb 1994 19:40:12 -0800 Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access (415) 705-6060 [login: guest] Lines: 15 Message-ID: <2kp4ms$e6o@crl2.crl.com> References: <9402262247.AA14260@im8> NNTP-Posting-Host: crl2.crl.com In article <> dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) writes: > >It is really hard to go wrong with blackberries so long as they get >enough sun and moisture. > Or unless they get away from you. We've been trying to remove some blackberry bramble from our yard for years and those long roots just go and go and go and go....... -alan -- Hemp Products and Services Got It Covered Send $1 and an S.A.S.E for a brochure P.O.Box 14627 and sample of fine cannabis hemp linen. Santa Rosa, CA 95402 Easy fundraisers for activists' groups. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet Thu Mar 3 13:28:24 EST 1994 Article: 27091 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!noc.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: Spiny & Tootie Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: tree peonies in zone 4 Date: Sat, 26 Feb 94 23:28:34 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 3 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: delphi.com has anyone had success growing tree peonies in a zone four garden? if so, what was your source for the plants, what varieties doid you grow, what site/cultural advice can you give? thanks. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!decwrl!raven.alaska.edu!acad2.alaska.edu!lsmcs Thu Mar 3 13:28:24 EST 1994 Article: 27092 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!decwrl!raven.alaska.edu!acad2.alaska.edu!lsmcs From: lsmcs@acad2.alaska.edu Subject: espalier fruit trees Message-ID: <1994Feb26.151807.1@acad2.alaska.edu> Lines: 7 Sender: news@raven.alaska.edu (USENET News System) Organization: University of Alaska Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 19:18:07 GMT Getting ready to plant fruit trees (dwarf, semi-dwarf) and would like to hear from folks that have had personal experience with growing them by espalier method. I know there are several styles. Which might be best for a beginner, easy to maintain and still give a lot of fruit? Space and sun are not limited but we want to put them along a six foot fence. Climate is mid-valley Oregon soil is okay but tends to heavy. Thanks for any time you take with a reply. Think spring, mimi From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!connie2 Thu Mar 3 13:28:25 EST 1994 Article: 27093 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!connie2 From: connie2@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu (Connie Christie) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: soaking seeds for faster germination Date: 27 Feb 1994 12:48:30 GMT Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 13 Message-ID: <2kq4qu$b6f@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> References: <2k9efp$ldv@scratchy.reed.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet2.scri.fsu.edu I've been taught to pre-soak (4-12 hrs) any seed I can conveniently pick up, e.g., bean, pea, corn seeds. These larger seeds generally seem to have a tough outer shell and the pre-soak in water seems beneficial to their early germination. Be careful, however, too long of a soak can damage the seed. I effectively destroyed a batch of bean seed by soaking around 36 hrs (accidently). They drowned. The smaller seeds (spinach included) I plant directly and let the soil moisture softer the outer shell. Michael Christie Crawfordville, Florida From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!connie2 Thu Mar 3 13:28:26 EST 1994 Article: 27094 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!connie2 From: connie2@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu (Connie Christie) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: best asparagus variety Date: 27 Feb 1994 13:17:22 GMT Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 33 Message-ID: <2kq6h2$bda@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> References: <660005@hpwrce.mayfield.hp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet2.scri.fsu.edu I am just getting started in asparagus, so these comments are from a rank novice. Nonetheless, my investigations have shown that the Jersey varieties are definitely the superior variety today. They are (mostly) all male varieties and thus more productive and don't produce seed (a nusiance). I acquired my one-yrar old Jersey Knight plants from the Park Seed Co., Cokewbury Road, Greenwood, SC 29647. They wee around $20/25 plants, as I recall. A good source of "how to grow asparagus" (including a discussion on the Jersey varieties) can be obtained from Piketon Research & Extension Center OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY 1864 Shyville Road Piketon, OH 45661-9749 Ask for Mis. Publication #93-2 (1993 Ohio Asparagus School) and Bulletin 826 (Asparagus Producvtion, Management and Marketing). These'll cost you $7.00. Also ask for the one-page pamphlet, "Growing Asparagus the Easy Way in the Home Garden." Anyway, my new Jersey Knight asparagus plants are "in" (planted 30 days ago) and growing like crazy (35 spears were up at last count, 3" to 24") presently. No picking the first year during plant establishment, of course. Ohio advises that a light picking (2 weeks) the second year is fine (and advised, actually) and routine 4-6 week picking the third year and thereafter. Michael Christie Crawfordville, Florida From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!js0n+ Thu Mar 3 13:28:27 EST 1994 Article: 27095 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!js0n+ From: "John E. Snyder" Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: vermiculture Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 08:56:22 -0500 Organization: Doctoral student, Physics, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 56 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: po5.andrew.cmu.edu In-Reply-To: <9402222303.AA29709@im8> Excerpts from netnews.rec.gardens: 22-Feb-94 Re: vermiculture by Dick and Jill Miller@im. > From: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu (Dick and Jill Miller) > Subject: Re: vermiculture > Date: Tue, 22 Feb 94 18:03:52 EST > > In article: <1994Feb22.022710.27757@k12.ucs.umass.edu> > jkenney@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jeff Kenney (Great Falls MS)) asks: > >I have several students interested in investigating vermiculture. I have > >ordered the book "Worms Eat My Garbage", but would like some advise. Where > >can I purchase red worms for this purpose? Would they have them at a bait > >shop? Thanks for any help......Jeff > > I was looking for the same information. Bait shops charge an arm and a > leg for worms, too much for amounts used in vermiculture. I checked out > the ads in the back of Organic Gardening and Fine Gardening magazines and > found a couple of places in the south which mail order worms in quantity > at more reasonable prices. I decided to wait for warmer weather to > order, so my worms won't die in shipment. Now that it's starting to > warm up, I've misplaced the addresses so I suppose I'll have to go down > to the library and look them up again. > > Good luck on your search. > > If anyone can recommend some worm farms as better than others, I'm sure > some of us would like to hear about it. > > --Jill > > A. Richard & Jill A. Miller | MILLER MICROCOMPUTER SERVICES | > InterNet: dmiller@im.lcs.mit.edu | 61 Lake Shore Road | > Voice: 508/653-6136, 9am-9pm -0500(EST)| Natick, MA 01760-2099, USA | > MMSFORTH: The cure for the common code.| 42 18'00.79" N, 71 22'27.68" W| In this area (Pittsburgh, PA), the only reason to buy redworms would be if you did not have any ground outside at all. I have plenty of redworms living in my compost pile. I use them for fishing, especially in the spring, and chop one up for my aquarium fish every now and then. My compost pile is fairly small, and I'm sure it does not get very hot. But I have seen at the community gardens, expecially in the spring, redworms will accumulate under/in almost any little old compost pile, and even small piles of leaves or weeds. Around here, if you build it, they will come (apologies to "Field of Dreams"). I don't know where they come from, but even a little compost pile in my little city backyard attracts them. I can see how some of the acients thought that garbage or manure created worms. John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!js0n+ Thu Mar 3 13:28:28 EST 1994 Article: 27096 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!uhog.mit.edu!nntp.club.cc.cmu.edu!news.sei.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!js0n+ From: "John E. Snyder" Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rear Tine Tiller: To Buy Or Not To Buy Date: Sun, 27 Feb 1994 09:01:06 -0500 Organization: Doctoral student, Physics, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 67 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: po5.andrew.cmu.edu In-Reply-To: Excerpts from netnews.rec.gardens: 23-Feb-94 Re: Rear Tine Tiller: To Bu.. by Greg MacKinnon@nbnet.nb. > From: kinnong@nbnet.nb.ca (Greg MacKinnon) > Subject: Re: Rear Tine Tiller: To Buy Or Not To Buy > Date: Wed, 23 Feb 1994 01:03:35 GMT > > In article <2kbrj2$neq@reznor.larc.nasa.gov> gould@ixeab2 (Dana C. Gould) writes > : > >From: gould@ixeab2 (Dana C. Gould) > >Subject: Rear Tine Tiller: To Buy Or Not To Buy > >Date: 22 Feb 1994 02:44:50 GMT > >Hi folks, > > > >I've been toying around with the idea of getting a rear tine tiller. My > >problem, cost of course. I have a front tine for my 3000 sq. ft. garden > >that I've used for the past several years. I'm thinking of enlarging the > >gardern to about 5000 sq. ft. and think that the rear tine tiller might be > >a good purchase at this point. I've used my neighbor's Troy and loved it. > > > >So, for my questions. I know Troy's are the best, but I can't see spending > >$1000 for a tiller and I can't seem to find a used one. > >The home stores (HQ, Builder's Square, Lowes) have similar tillers for about > >$500, and I was wondering if anyone out there has any experience with them. > >The one thing I notice that is different is that the Troy's have tines that > >rotate in the forward direction just like my front tine tiller, but the others > >for the most part have counter rotating tines. Which is better, forward > >rotating tines or backwards rotating tines and why? One model, an MTD, lets > >you choose forward or backwards rotating tines, but it costs $150 more than > >the purely backward rotating tine machine. Is this option worth $150? > > > >Finally, are there any other things I should consider? Any experiences, good > >or bad will be appreciated. > > > >Thanks > >Dana Gould > >d.c.gould@larc.nasa.gov > > > > > Dana, you have my vote for the Troy. Buy a new one if possible. I have > had mine for 10 years now. I bought it all apart in a box and at the time I > was told it was 10 years old. > > Tines and belts are a little pricey, the rewarded work is worth the extra > cost. Two things in life you do not lend, your wife and your tiller. > > Good luck Make that three things: Include never lend your softball mitt. (8^)) Seriously, if you have the time, you could make some of the money back by tilling flower beds, community garden plots, people's gardens, etc. There's a guy around here that charges $15.00 or $20.00 for tilling a 20 x 25 foot community garden, and he always has a waiting list of eager customers. John snyder@henry.ece.cmu.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!connie2 Thu Mar 3 13:28:29 EST 1994 Article: 27097 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!connie2 From: connie2@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu (Connie Christie) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: help with ranunculus seeds Date: 27 Feb 1994 13:35:11 GMT Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 12 Message-ID: <2kq7if$bgt@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> References: <1994Feb25.115354.1@pbs.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet2.scri.fsu.edu My banana pepper seeds have always been much slower to germinate than my bell pepper seeds (which are, frankly, slow enough in their own regard!). I planted my seeds in seed-starters, just like you. The bells are up and green and looking good; the bananas are still sleeping. Have patience. (I don't know anything regarding runuculus..sorry.) Michael Christie Crawfordville, Florida From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!aludra.usc.edu!not-for-mail Thu Mar 3 13:28:30 EST 1994 Article: 27098 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!corpgate!news.utdallas.edu!wupost!usc!aludra.usc.edu!not-for-mail From: pappas@aludra.usc.edu (A. Pappas) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: fenugreek: advice needed Date: 27 Feb 1994 10:54:29 -0800 Organization: University of Southern California, Los Angeles, CA Lines: 10 Sender: pappas@aludra.usc.edu Message-ID: <2kqq95$iku@aludra.usc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: aludra.usc.edu Keywords: fenugreek Hi, I live in LA and would like to grow fenugreek in my garden. We have heavy clay soil, for the most part. Does anyone know how this plant grows in its native habitat? Has anyone out there in garden-space grown this before? Thanks. Andrea Pappas pappas@scf.usc.edu From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet Thu Mar 3 13:28:30 EST 1994 Article: 27099 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!iat.holonet.net!oeonline!coconet From: coconet@oeonline.UUCP (gkiewicz) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: woodchucks and fences Message-ID: <41@oeonline.UUCP> Date: 27 Feb 94 18:38:26 GMT References: <94057.154814DWM7@psuvm.psu.edu> Organization: Observer & Eccentric Newspapers Lines: 35 DWM7@psuvm.psu.edu writes: > I intend to fence in a 30x15 garden to keep out bunnies and woodchucks. How > high should the fence be? I was thinking maybe three feet. Can woodchucks > climb? Any other advice or suggestions greatly appreced. > > D.W. Moore -- State College PA To exclude rabbits, you don't need much more than 18" of fencing (mesh of should be < 1" x 1"), but woodchucks can climb. I once saw a woddchuck sunning itself 15' up a tree on an early spring day. In my experience, they will as often go over as under a fence, and may only dig under a fence to save time once a regular habit has developed. One anti-woodchuck fencing technique is to have a section of unsupported mesh at the top of the fence, which bows outward. The woodchuck climbs is and flops back to the ground (this also works against raccoons). The bottom of the fence should extend underground both downward and outward. I remember reading once that woodchucks won't go into a garden they can't see (and adult 'chucks I've observed rarely go out of line-of-site of a den or bolt-hole), so that making your fence a *visual* barrier can 'chuck-proof' your garden. Electric fences are also supposed ot be pretty effective, though in some cities they might be illegal. Rabbits are relatively easy to live with. (My own experience has been that you don't even need to go to great lengths to bury the fence. At or slightly below ground level has been enough to keep rabbits out.) I can't say the same about woodchucks. In my opinion, the optimal solution to woodchucks is removal. Method is up to the individual's conscience. -- //Pat Kiewicz\\ gkiewicz@oeonline.com "Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn." -- Garrison Keillor From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!digex.net!rtp.vnet.net!allegro Thu Mar 3 13:28:32 EST 1994 Article: 27100 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.intercon.com!digex.net!rtp.vnet.net!allegro From: allegro@vnet.net (Stephen Durfee) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: <<< Gardening Videos >>> Date: 27 Feb 1994 19:18:02 GMT Organization: Vnet Internet Access, Inc. - Charlotte, NC. (704) 374-0779 Lines: 5 Message-ID: <2kqrla$4te@rtp.vnet.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: char.vnet.net X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] A friend of mine told be about this place that sells a diverse collection of special interest videos to include ones on gardening. The number is 919.571.8991 if you are interested. From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!jkl2 Thu Mar 3 13:28:33 EST 1994 Article: 27101 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!jkl2 From: jkl2@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu (James Lewis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bonsai trees Date: 27 Feb 1994 18:49:47 GMT Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 7 Message-ID: <2kqq0b$dkm@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> References: <1994Feb22.001741.1@rosevc.rose-hulman.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet2.scri.fsu.edu pettitda@rosevc.rose-hulman.edu writes: > Does someone know anything about bonsai trees. I especially want to know about > starting one from 'scratch'. What kinds of trees make good bonsai trees is the > main thing. Please send me as much info as you can. > Thanks > David Pettit > From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!haldas Thu Mar 3 13:28:34 EST 1994 Article: 27102 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!mailer.acns.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!haldas From: haldas@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu (Gene Haldas) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Magnolia tree Propogation Date: 27 Feb 1994 19:01:42 GMT Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 9 Message-ID: <2kqqmm$f6a@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet2.scri.fsu.edu Need some more help. You people at rec.gardens have been very helpful in the past now I need some advice about propogating a Magnolia tree. The species is Soulangiana cultivar Alexandrina. We just purchased a couple of them at $20 ea.now I would like to try my hand at growing my own and maybe save a few bucks. Any suggestions?. -- -- Gene Haldas -- Tallahassee, Florida From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Thu Mar 3 13:28:34 EST 1994 Article: 27103 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 26 Feb 94 18:15 PST Subject: Re: Using yard waste Message-ID: <1453300489@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 9 You can either use the bagged stuff as a mulch and let it rot while it pre- serves moisture and keeps weeds down or you can dig it in. I prefer the former so as not to disturb the soil profile, but it's your choice. The rotted wood will be a good soil amendment and like the leaves can be laid over the soil or dug in. Or you could jest let it rot some more and use it in your potting mix as w as well. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Thu Mar 3 13:28:35 EST 1994 Article: 27104 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 26 Feb 94 18:21 PST Subject: Re: Growing Bay Laurel Indoors Message-ID: <1453300490@cdp> References: <9402231952591.ghankins.DLITE@del> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 13 I'm surprised your bay hasn't branched or sent out shoots from the bottom yet. I just got a new one thats only 8" tall and it is branching and sending out shoots from the base. Are you sure you have a Laurus nobilis? In general, bay likes it cool and bright. You ould easily put it outside in May and bring it in in October, it might like some shade at noon. I've grown them in the house, tho. The one I had lived by my bak door which is glass and faces north. I have this new one in a south window for now anyway. The old one got really nice and large, but not nearly 6ft, but got scale one summer. I gave it to a friend who has rescue fantasies and got a new one. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Thu Mar 3 13:28:36 EST 1994 Article: 27105 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 26 Feb 94 18:09 PST Subject: Re: Raspberry (rec.gardens) Message-ID: <1453300488@cdp> References: <1994Feb24.150834.13401@sol.asl.h> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 17 You can get raspberries from most of the larger mail order companies among them Miller Nurseries, Burpee, Kelly bros. You can probably get them from garden centers in South Jersey. My absolute favorite at the moment is Heritage. It sets fruit on 1 year old canes canes in Jun/July and on new canes from July thru Xmas. I have s very small bed 4x12" or so, and I get a quart of berries every other day until Oct and enough to munch upon til it gets really cold. I started with 5 plants...They spread and fast. I don't think it matters much how old the canes are when you plant them. We usually dig the young olants that sneak out of the bed when they're a foot tall and transplant them. Good luck Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Thu Mar 3 13:28:37 EST 1994 Article: 27106 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 26 Feb 94 17:47 PST Subject: Re: Blueberries in zone 7? Message-ID: <1453300484@cdp> References: <2klrgt$giv@europa.eng.gtefsd.com> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 13 You're right. There are a lot of new cultivars especially for Southern growers. Most of them are Rabbit-eye types. Look for them in catalogs or ask your friendly Coop Extension agent who's probably listed in the phone book under Va Polytech. Univ. Philadelphia is also in zone 7 with hot nasty summers and we do quite well with the usual varieties of high bush blueberries that can be ordered from most fruit catalogs and sometimes even found in local garden center. NJ is a BIG producer of blues and is mostly in our very same climatic zone. So you really should be able to grow any sort of blue you want...if your soil pH is betwn 4 & 5. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Thu Mar 3 13:28:38 EST 1994 Article: 27107 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 26 Feb 94 17:56 PST Subject: Re: Mache /Feldsalat Message-ID: <1453300485@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 10 Indeed, indeed. Mache and feldsalat and corn salad are all the same plant; although there are a whole bunch of different cultivars on the market. It's a cool weather plant and should be seeded in earliest spring or early fall. I sometimes grow it in flats under lights in the cellar particularly in years like this when the ground is covered with snow for ever. it does really well under lights. I never transplant it out of the flat. I just thin it and eat the thinnings as I go. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Thu Mar 3 13:28:39 EST 1994 Article: 27108 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!ames!sgi!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Date: 26 Feb 94 17:58 PST Subject: Re: Rhubard best for pies Message-ID: <1453300486@cdp> References: <2kivjb$okk@news.u.washington.edu> Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 3 german Wine and Red Cherry are nice. Libby From bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!sgi!cdp!libby Thu Mar 3 13:28:40 EST 1994 Art