From jmh@anser.pdial.interpath.net Fri Mar 10 15:22:59 EST 1995 Article: 57726 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!redstone.interpath.net!usenet From: jmh@anser.pdial.interpath.net (Jeanne Hinds) Newsgroups: news.config,news.groups,misc.consumers,misc.rural,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Propose new group: alt.living.tightwad Date: 9 Mar 1995 14:27:17 GMT Organization: Interpath -- Providing Internet access to North Carolina Lines: 9 Sender: anser@redstone.interpath.net Message-ID: <3jn385$18c@redstone.interpath.net> References: <3jj9vs$91p@isnews.calpoly.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: anser.pdial.interpath.net X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0.4@anser.pdial.interpath.net X-Authenticated: anser on POP host redstone.interpath.net Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.config:543 news.groups:113569 misc.consumers:87487 misc.rural:15791 rec.gardens:57726 Status: RO X-Status: Yes! Yes! Yes! Six months ago I seriously thought of starting an alt. group for tightwads based on the Tightwad Gazette but couldn't due to other priorities. SO, I am thrilled that someone else is proposing it! Yea! +-----------------------------------------+---------------------------+ | Jeanne Hinds | Creativity is the art of | | jmh@anser.pdial.interpath.net | concealing one's sources. | +-----------------------------------------+---------------------------+ From dtos@lamar.ColoState.EDU Fri Mar 10 15:23:04 EST 1995 Article: 57729 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!purdue!yuma!lamar.ColoState.EDU!not-for-mail From: dtos@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Duane Osmanski) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: re:seed problems Date: 7 Mar 1995 13:29:36 -0700 Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523 Lines: 8 Message-ID: <3jifng$4ivo@lamar.ColoState.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: lamar.acns.colostate.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: Sorry about the other post At any rate, I planted a corp of cabbage last year that was about 70,000 plants. The best way I could do it was put the seeds into the flats and incubate them for 48 hours at 84F then right into the green- house for about 6 weeks at 68F. Most of the cabbage plants are cold hardy and don't need a lot of heat Hope that helps From mfrost@primenet.com Fri Mar 10 15:23:06 EST 1995 Article: 57730 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.primenet.com!ip117.lax.primenet.com!mfrost From: mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: earwigs are not harmless Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 20:21:14 PST Organization: Primenet Lines: 11 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: ip117.lax.primenet.com X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4] Status: RO X-Status: It is surprising how underestimated earwigs are. They are said to be harmless, but not for corn and lettuce. And, they will bite-they got into the garden boots, and gloves constantly. I was disappointed by the slim advice available to control them, especially organically. After an explosion of earwigs in the past couple of years, I have finally seen their numbers decrease. How? I let three industrious Rhode Island Red hens seek and destroy. I did not worry about seedlings because the bugs would've gotten them anyway. After a year, the hens were happy, and the earwigs were lessened. BTW, Ducks do not like them. Regards, Martha mfrost@primenet.com From roy@harvey.com Fri Mar 10 15:23:09 EST 1995 Article: 57732 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.Gsu.EDU!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!news1.best.com!usenet From: roy@harvey.com (Roy Harvey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seed Savers Exchange Date: 10 Mar 1995 00:44:21 GMT Organization: Me Lines: 16 Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[3559] Message-ID: <3jo7d5$4hs@news1.best.com> References: <3igues$12v@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3ivje5$689@tlab1.cs.unc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: roy.vip.best.com X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0.1@roy.vip.best.com Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name. Status: RO X-Status: > MarkHess wrote: > Does anyone know how the Seed Savers Exchange works. I know you can > become a member by sending so much money but what does that get you? Do > you then get a certain amount of seeds a year? Do you have to grow > something and send them seeds? What is the deal? Seed Savers Publications Rural Route 3 Box 239 Decorah, IA 52101 319-382-5990 Seeds of Change / Deep Diversity P.O.Box 15700 Santa Fe, NM 87506 505-983-8956 From klier@cobra.uni.edu Fri Mar 10 15:23:17 EST 1995 Article: 57736 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How do I grow perennials from seed??? Message-ID: <1995Mar7.141640.39826@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 7 Mar 95 14:16:40 -0600 References: <5g5atdU.dovetail@delphi.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 26 Status: RO X-Status: In article <5g5atdU.dovetail@delphi.com>, dovetail@delphi.com writes: > I left a message before, but thought my delivery got me nowhere. I'm trying som > something new: growing perennials from seed. Any experienced gardeners who > can offer some advice? I'm using antique seeds, if that's of any help. Also, I > live in > live in North Central Massachusetts. I think the seeds I purchased can weather > this climate. Help?????? THANKS!!! Antique seeds? Seeds of "old fashioned garden flowers"? Or seeds more than a few years old? If the seeds are old, go ahead and try. If they're seeds of "old fashioned" plants, probably no problem. You should go to your library and pick up a book on seed germination techniques (Parks has a good title many years ago, and Haring is the author of another I remember) and a book on perennials. Use the information on the USDA hardiness zones to figure out if the seeds you have will be hardy in your area. Seeds of perennials are often a bit trickier to grow than the standard veggie seeds, but not much. Why don't you post a list of the plants you've got seeds for, and we'll try to help you with germination times and temperature, and any pre-chilling that needs to happen. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From rcvaiden@prairienet.org Fri Mar 10 15:23:19 EST 1995 Article: 57737 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!prairienet.org!rcvaiden From: rcvaiden@prairienet.org (Robert C. Vaiden) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Dogtooth Violets Date: 9 Mar 1995 14:46:38 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 26 Message-ID: <3jn4ce$41o@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: <9503051310017165@welcom.gen.nz> Reply-To: rcvaiden@prairienet.org (Robert C. Vaiden) NNTP-Posting-Host: firefly.prairienet.org Status: RO X-Status: In a previous article, tony.kingsbury@welcom.gen.nz (Tony Kingsbury) says: >Hi! > Could anyone tell me, please, what dogtooth violets are, and what >soil/conditions they like? I've been given some bulbs.....& they are >obviously no relation of ordinary violets. Any information would be much >appreciated. > Thanks > Dogtooth violets (trout lilies) are native woodland plants-any good woods here in Illinois may have CARPETS of them. They bloom in spring for a couple weeks, then fade-the leaves eventually turn yellow, and the plants disappear. They are (I think) members of the lily family. They take a long time to grow from seed (I've heard 5-7 years before they bloom). Mine bloom only sparsely and irregularly...I think they take time to establish (I wouldn't plant them at a place where I was spending only a year or two). Plant them in a "woodland" type setting-under a tree is fine (not an evergreen!). They wouldn't like dry or sandy soil- think a nice moist woodland floor. They do well with other woodland plants: bluebell, geranium, bellwort...etc. Bob Vaiden From pwight@rahul.net Fri Mar 10 15:23:22 EST 1995 Article: 57739 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sgiblab!rahul.net!a2i!pwight.a2i!pwight From: "Philip F. Wight" Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: lady slippers Date: 10 Mar 1995 01:29:14 GMT Organization: a2i network Lines: 24 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <3joa1a$br3@hustle.rahul.net> References: <3jifiu$l6l@eccdb1.pms.ford.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bolero.rahul.net NNTP-Posting-User: pwight X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: Janine Dahms Walker (jwalker@InforMNs.k12.MN.US) wrote: : Grant- do you have an address for Spangle Creek? Janine ------------------------ Janine - here's Spangle Creek's phone number: Spangle Creek Labs Bill Steele 509-245-3253 Bill is probably the most experienced grower of native ladyslippers alive. Ask him how easy, or difficult, they are to raise - he'll tell you! I really suggest that you get a paph, which is an Asian ladyslipper. There are types that are extremely easy to grow, make a beautiful plant and also make beautiful flowers. You can see them for sale these days in supermarkets and garden stores. Please DON'T try native American ladyslippers. I can guaraNTEE YOU 99 TO 1 THAT YOU WILL KILL IT. THEY ARE EXTREMELY TOUCHY - THEY NEED PURE WATER AND VERY CAREFUL HANDLING. (Sorry about those caps.) Paphs are beautiful - I have about 200 of them now. Try one! Cheers, Phil From splunket@ccs.carleton.ca Fri Mar 10 21:06:27 EST 1995 Article: 57740 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!admaix.sunydutchess.edu!ub!netfs.dnd.ca!dgbt!nott!cunews!superior!splunket From: splunket@ccs.carleton.ca (S. Plunkett) Subject: Re: clay soil + compost = adobe ??? Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 12:22:36 GMT Lines: 20 Status: RO X-Status: Anthony Brewster (brewster@zuma.icsl.ucla.edu) wrote: > I recently added 1 part compost/mulch to 8 parts low organic clay soil. A week > after thoroughly mixing the soil + a little gypsum, 2-3 inches of rain fell > and turned the soil into a thick paste which lost a lot of volume and is > now drying into a hard adobe like mass. In a sense, the soil now seems > more compacted than before the organic material was added and is going to > need a lot of fluffing up to be suitable for planting. You will probably have to add quite a bit more organic material to soften up your clay. Adding some fine sand will also help to make it more suitable for gardening. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Scott J. Plunkett: splunket@ccs.carleton.ca, bp081@Freenet.carleton.ca __o "Think Globally _'\ <; Bike Locally" (*)/(*) Yes, since everyone seems to want to know, I am finally working on my thesis. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- From klier@cobra.uni.edu Fri Mar 10 21:06:29 EST 1995 Article: 57741 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: hyacinth: what to do after bloom is gone? Message-ID: <1995Mar9.192133.39989@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 9 Mar 95 19:21:33 -0600 References: <1995Mar3.103327.1@carleton.edu> <3j7oq3$g3g@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jnuib$5vs@clam.rutgers.edu> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 26 Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jnuib$5vs@clam.rutgers.edu>, cev@clam.rutgers.edu (Cara Vandy) writes: > > Someone actually took the time to watch a hyacinth's bloom size over four > years? Come on, how big a blossom do we really need ? I've planted the > forced flowers of Easter outside and they've done fine. I love the smell > of hyacinths, but they are freaky looking - a smaller flower blends in > better with the average garden anyway. Why throw the bulb away if adding > it to the yard will produce another flower, or, at worst, fertilizer ? > Yup, botany teachers do wierd things like watching bulbs for three or four years. As I recall, the forced bulbs averaged about 100 flowers the year they were forced, 0.2 the following year, and 10 the year after that. 10 flowers is a pretty skimpy inflorescence! There's also a big difference in early-forced bulbs (most of these were induced to flower in early-mid January) that have to be carried along in suboptimal conditions until the ground thaws enough to plant them, and bulbs that were forced to bloom at easter, which is about the normal blooming time around here. The late forced bulbs can be taken out and planted rather promptly. Another big variable is the growing mix they were forced in. Bulbs forced in hyacinth glasses or pebbles put on a poor show compared to forced in soil mixe when you look at flowering the next year. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From jbuckley@btg.com Fri Mar 10 21:06:36 EST 1995 Article: 57746 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.btg.com!port3.lanrover.btg.com!user From: jbuckley@btg.com (Jeremy D. Buckley) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Passion flower sources Date: Thu, 09 Mar 1995 21:00:54 -0500 Organization: BTG, Incorporated Lines: 16 Message-ID: References: <3jagm8$hr3@nntp1.u.washington.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: port3.lanrover.btg.com Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jagm8$hr3@nntp1.u.washington.edu>, knord@u.washington.edu (Kathleen Nordgren) wrote: > Can anybody out there provide me with the name and address of someone who > sells passion flowers? A few years back I bought the variety "Incense" > from Kartuz Greenhouse in Vista, CA, but they seem to be out of business > now. Thanks in advance for the help! Logee's Greenhouses in Danielson, CT has a pretty good variety of plants (including Incense). Thompson & Morgan has seeds for a number of varieties. I don't have the addresses handy, but feel free to email me if you need them. -- Jeremy Buckley jbuckley@btg.com BTG, Inc., Vienna, VA (703) 734-6863 From mfrost@primenet.com Sun Mar 12 21:52:39 EST 1995 Article: 57747 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.primenet.com!ip068.lax.primenet.com!mfrost From: mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tropica (the book) == $175! Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 13:39:10 PST Organization: Primenet Lines: 18 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <3j86p6$bie@courier.urbana.mcd.mot.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ip068.lax.primenet.com X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4] Status: RO X-Status: In article <3j86p6$bie@courier.urbana.mcd.mot.com> amy@michael.austin.mcd.mot.com (Amy Moseley Rupp) writes: >From: amy@michael.austin.mcd.mot.com (Amy Moseley Rupp) >Subject: Tropica (the book) == $175! >Date: 3 Mar 1995 22:55:34 GMT >I visited my local BookStop; they said they had Tropica, which is a >reference book of tropicals, on order, and that it cost $175!!! >Is this correct? If so, is this the reason there are so many >garden book resellers? My husband bought me a new copy of 'Tropica', as I wished for it for years. I have cruised booksales and second hand bookstores for years and have never seen anyone offering it for sale, new or used. Another book, much slimmer and less expensive ($8.95 last year)by the same author, de Graf is 'Exotica' but it is in black and white photos. It is also published by Roehrs. I suspect that this kind of reference book is kept until the owner's demise. Regards, Martha mfrost@primenet.com From blkorbe@srv.PacBell.COM Sun Mar 12 21:52:47 EST 1995 Article: 57749 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!gw2.att.com!pacbell.com!blkorbe From: blkorbe@srv.PacBell.COM (Brian Korbelik) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Milkweed--where to find? Date: 8 Mar 1995 21:31:49 GMT Organization: Pacific * Bell Lines: 26 Message-ID: <3jl7o5$894@gw.PacBell.COM> References: <3jgt25$m96@news.rain.org> <3jh4ld$k0p@mango.aloha.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: gw.pacbell.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Status: RO X-Status: >steven@rain.org () wrote: >> >> I would like to know where Milkweed can be obtained? I work at a garden >> center and none of my plant material suppliers have it. Can someone give >> me the botanical name? I can't find it in the most basic garden books! >> Sunset is useless, much to my surprise. Thanks in advance. >> The Theodore Payne Foundation has seed for Asclepias eriocarpa "Indian Milkweed" and they also have plants of Asclepias californica but don't know if they have seed for it. The eriocarpa is a cream color. The Theodore Payne Foundation 10459 Tuxford Street Sun Valley, CA 91352 Telephone and Fax: 818-768-1802 The folks there are very knowledgable and helpful. Brian Korbelik From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 21:52:54 EST 1995 Article: 57750 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.ksu.ksu.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Are wheel hoes worth while? Message-ID: <1995Mar9.205757.39993@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 9 Mar 95 20:57:57 -0600 References: <1995Mar9.174207.1@pa881a.inland.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 19 Status: RO X-Status: In article <1995Mar9.174207.1@pa881a.inland.com>, kuhn@pa881a.inland.com writes: > I would like some feedback on wheel hoes. How well do they work? Are they > difficult to use? Are they worth the money & energy needed to purchase and > use one? Are there any specific models that you can recommend? > > I am considering purchasing a tiller and was wondering if using a combination > of a wheel hoe and a mini tiller would fill my needs. My garden is between > 1/4 and 1/2 acre and the soil is fairly soft (no hard clay). Any comments > recommendations will be appreciated Is a wheel hoe a "handpush garden plow"? If so, they're the fastest way to weed between rows that I know of, and even I, with some major orthopedic problems, can handle one. Can't begin to hang onto a tiller, though. BTW, my garden plow was my great-grandfather's. Doubt many tillers will last that long! ;-) Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From allyn@u.washington.edu Sun Mar 12 21:53:00 EST 1995 Article: 57751 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!nntp.cac.washington.edu!psaltery.chem.washington.edu!user From: allyn@u.washington.edu (Allyn Weaks) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Is "Roundup" Safe Way To Kill A Lawn Date: Thu, 09 Mar 1995 19:01:34 -0800 Organization: University of Washington Lines: 62 Message-ID: References: <3jkhku$d5t@werner.cs.mtu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: psaltery.chem.washington.edu X-Newsreader: Value-Added NewsWatcher 2.0b24.0+ Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jkhku$d5t@werner.cs.mtu.edu>, jgtusciu@mtu.edu (John Tusciuk) wrote: > Bill Dill (wdill@Primenet.com) wrote: [...snip...] > : Can anyone tell me anything about Roundup? Is there any truly safe way to > : kill off a lawn? > > I've never heard of Roundup causing any problems, but if you are > worried about it, ask the landscaper for the chemical data sheets > (there's some acronym for these, but I can't remember it). These list > all of the possible hazards associated with use of a given chemical > and employers (at least in Michigan) have to have these someplace > accessible to any employees that may be exposed to the chemical, so > I'm sure he's at least got a copy. Material Safety Data Sheet. Indeed, you should obtain and read these for any herbicide/pesticide etc before you use it. But be aware that it doesn't tell the whole story; only the 'active' ingredients need to be disclosed in the ingredients list. Many companies manage to hide hazardous materials as 'inert' ingredients. Roundup is one of the (many) offenders. Glyphosate is fairly safe to animals - it quickly binds tightly to many soils (n.b. it may take months or years to actually degrade, and it doesn't bind well to sands and coarse silt, where it can remain active to retard new plant growth until it does degrade), and is not very toxic if you get it on your skin, or even breathe it. But one of the 'inert' ingredients is a surfactant polyoxyethyleneamine (POEA) which often contains 1,4-dioxane (a carcinogen) as a contaminent. POEA is easily absorbed through the skin and has caused acute poisoning on its own - it is much more toxic than glyphosate. This surfactant is one of the main reasons that Roundup sometimes works better than its clones with the same active ingredients; it causes more of the glyphosate to be absorbed by the plant. Of course, a lack of POEA in a clone doesn't necessarily make a clone safer - depends on what _they_ hide in their 'inert' ingredients... So use Roundup (or clone) where non-toxic solutions are impractical (I'll be attacking my bindweed with it this year) but make sure you don't breathe it or get it on your skin, and keep it away from kids and pets. Gloves and long sleeves are a good idea, as is painting it on instead of spraying when possible (hard to do to a lawn...). And if you lack clay in your soil, you should probably wait a while before you replant. But don't be too paranoid; drinking the stuff outright will only kill you about 10% of the time... and if you do spill a bit of the stuff on you, most will wash off with *soap* and water. Meanwhile, complain to your congress critters about the appalling laxity in labelling requirements. A reference: Author: Martinez-T-T. Brown-K. Author Affil.: Department of Pharmacology, St. Louis College of Pharmacy, Missouri 63110. Title: Oral and pulmonary toxicology of the surfactant used in roundup herbicide. Source: Proc-West-Pharmacol-Soc. 1991. 34. P 43-6. Journal Title: PROCEEDINGS-OF-THE-WESTERN-PHARMACOLOGY-SOCIETY. -- Allyn Weaks allyn@u.washington.edu From jbuckley@btg.com Sun Mar 12 21:53:04 EST 1995 Article: 57752 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.btg.com!mac92.btg.com!user From: jbuckley@btg.com (Jeremy Buckley) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Hoyas! Date: Thu, 09 Mar 1995 12:46:44 -0500 Organization: BTG, Incorporated Lines: 14 Message-ID: References: <3j82p7$eo3@mango.aloha.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac92.btg.com Status: RO X-Status: In article <3j82p7$eo3@mango.aloha.com>, "E. Gilding" wrote: > For those of you who have access to Horticulture magazine check out > the Feburary issue for an article on Hoyas, an excellent article > by Christine Burton, leader of the Hoya Society International. I have the February issue and haven't been able to find such an article. They don't have regional editions, do they? -- Jeremy Buckley jbuckley@btg.com JeremyB843@aol.com BTG, Incorporated, Vienna, VA (703) 734-6863 From kcurr@cyberspace.com Sun Mar 12 21:53:09 EST 1995 Article: 57754 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cyberspace.com!ppp52-208.cyberspace.com!user From: kcurr@cyberspace.com (Kaycee Curr) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: how to ripen tomatoes Date: Wed, 08 Mar 1995 23:07:26 +0500 Organization: C y b e r S p a c e - (206) 505-5577 Lines: 17 Message-ID: References: <3g14ob$5jp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp52-208.cyberspace.com Status: RO X-Status: In article , lhellwi@interaccess.com (Lisa Stalnaker Hellwig) wrote: > According to Organic Gardening, putting them in the windowsill just makes > them mushy. They say to put them in a paper bag. > > It's always worked for me! > > Lisa Hellwig What I found works even better for me is wrapping them individually with paper towels so that they don't touch each other. (Later the paper towels can be used to do household chores or something, so that it's not a complete waste). Then put them in the paper bag. I check them every day still- you know what they say about one bad apple! :) Kaycee From jrwoodworth@mmm.com Sun Mar 12 21:53:13 EST 1995 Article: 57755 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.starnet.net!wupost!nic.smsu.edu!newsdist.tc.umn.edu!dawn.mmm.com!JRW63025!jrwoodworth From: jrwoodworth@mmm.com (John Woodworth) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bird feeder without weeds? Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 12:49:45 Organization: 3M Lines: 28 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: jrw63025.mmm.com X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] Status: RO X-Status: In article pnash@metronet.com (Pat Nash) writes: >From: pnash@metronet.com (Pat Nash) >Subject: Bird feeder without weeds? >Date: Tue, 7 Mar 1995 16:29:21 GMT >I have a bird feeder in my back yard (currently over grass, but I will >soon have a garden area for it). The birds are VERY sloppy eaters and >throw half of the seed overboard while they are eating! Any suggestions >on keeping these seeds from germinating - mulch, brick base, etc.? I'd let it fall into the grass and germinate. A quick pass or two with the lawnmower once a week will keep any weeds down. Putting a feeder near a garden bed is another matter. You will have weeds everwhere. I found the best way to fertilize a tree is to hang a bird feeder under it. The mulch from the seed hulls along with the birds dropping do wonders for tree growth and improving the soil. John ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Imitation is the sincerest form of parody." Richard Corliss ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From kcurr@cyberspace.com Sun Mar 12 21:53:17 EST 1995 Article: 57756 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cyberspace.com!ppp52-208.cyberspace.com!user From: kcurr@cyberspace.com (Kaycee Curr) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Spring flowering bulbs going to seed Date: Wed, 08 Mar 1995 23:15:54 +0500 Organization: C y b e r S p a c e - (206) 505-5577 Lines: 10 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp52-208.cyberspace.com Status: RO X-Status: I notice every year my spring flowering bulbs have seeds. I read somewhere that you should deadhead the daffodils and the tulips, but what about the dying blooms (not leaves) from the crocus, snowdrops, scilla, etc? When I got them I read that they were perfect for naturalizing, and will multiply readily. Some of them are on their fourth year in my garden and I haven't noticed any more flowers than when I first put them in. Was I supposed to save those seeds and plant them? Thanks! Kaycee From homers@airframe.chinalake.navy.mil Sun Mar 12 21:53:38 EST 1995 Article: 57760 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,misc.consumers Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!newshub.nosc.mil!avalon.chinalake.navy.mil!usenet From: homers@airframe.chinalake.navy.mil (homers) Subject: Burgess :-P Message-ID: X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0.5@homers.chinalake.navy.mil Lines: 16 Sender: usenet@avalon.chinalake.navy.mil (NAWS news admin) Organization: NAWC X-Authenticated: homers on Unix host airframe.chinalake.navy.mil Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 04:05:14 GMT Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:57760 misc.consumers:87522 Status: RO X-Status: I ordered from Burgess for the first and last time this year. They have the worst customer service I have ever experienced. Rather than relate my entire tale of woe, I will just list the two things that stood out as being the worst. 1. Having become dissatisfied with Burgess' customer service, I tried to cancel my order. This was before any product was shipped. No dice. They will not cancel an order except if it is done in writing even though they are happy to take orders by telephone. They charged my credit card anyway. 2. When I finally did receive a package, there was all of my order information printed on the shipping label. Also printed on the shipping label was my credit card number for all the world to see. Others may have had better luck with Burgess but I will never order from therm again. From amy@michael.austin.mcd.mot.com Sun Mar 12 21:53:43 EST 1995 Article: 57761 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!news.mathworks.com!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!psgrain!zilker.net!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.starnet.net!wupost!courier.urbana.mcd.mot.com!usenet From: amy@michael.austin.mcd.mot.com (Amy Moseley Rupp) Newsgroups: rec.gardens,sci.geo.meteorology,austin.talk Subject: New Sunset Western Garden Book; Zone for Austin, TX help? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 8 Mar 1995 00:04:34 GMT Organization: Motorola Computer Group, Urbana Design Center Lines: 48 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jisai$bb@courier.urbana.mcd.mot.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: courier.urbana.mcd.mot.com Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:57761 sci.geo.meteorology:14147 Status: RO X-Status: ref: courier.urbana.mcd.mot.com rec.gardens:54972 sci.geo.meteorology:13251 austin.talk:327 Sunset includes Texas in its sales and discussions in its magazine, but it does not give zone information for Texas. Would those knowledgeable be able to give a close match in climate in the Western states (NM, AZ, CA, CO, UT, WA, OR are a few)? >From the types of plants that do well here and the weather information given in the book, my guess is that we are 8, 10, 12, or 14. We have hot summer days but warm nights and high humidity, and extremely erratic but usually mild winters (60F - 40F are the average high and low of our coldest month, January). Below follows more detailed data. Thanks! USDA Zone 8 Record High: 109 F (hurts to type it) Record Low: -2 F (hurts to type it) Days Above 90 F: 105 (hurts to type it) Days Below 32 F: 21.1 (that's more like it!) Relative Humidity: 6 am: 83%; noon, 56% Annual Wind Speed: 9.2 mph Mean Max. July: 95 F (August a tad hotter) Mean Min. January: 39 F (December about the same, with a warmup in Feb.) First Freeze: November 28 Last Freeze: March 3 Growing Season: 270 days Annual Precip: 31.9 inches J F M A M J 1.7 2.2 1.9 2.6 4.8 3.7 J A S O N D 2.0 2.1 3.3 3.4 2.4 1.9 (rainiest months by far May/June and September/October, beginning and end of school year) -- Amy Moseley Rupp 108 Wild Basin Ste. 108, Austin, Texas 78746 Motorola Computer Group FAX: (512) 329-7131 amy@austin.mcd.mot.com alphanumeric pgr: (512) 933-5511, pgr 327117 (300 baud) (512) 329-7117 digital pgr: (512) 933-7333, pgr 327117 From egilding@aloha.com Sun Mar 12 21:54:10 EST 1995 Article: 57766 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!coconut-wireless!usenet From: "E. Gilding" Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: starting Pineapples Date: 9 Mar 1995 07:38:04 GMT Organization: Flex Information Network HAWAII Lines: 27 Message-ID: <3jmb8t$l0m@mango.aloha.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: dialup22.aloha.com Status: RO X-Status: myancey@pic.net (Michael Yancey) wrote: > > This may sound strange, but when I was young I had a teacher > who started a pineapple by cutting off the top and planting it. > Does this work or is there a little more to it > > Thanks, > myancey@pic.net Easily!. Just twist it free from the fruit part until it separates. If its fresh itll come off easily. Let the top dry in the dark for a day or two and then put it in a 4-6 inch pot filled with houseplant potting soil. Its sometimes helps to removve the bottom leaves(jusrt a FEW) and then pot it up. I dunno where you live pbut if its warm then let it root by itself in a shaded location until you notice it growing. If you live some where cold then I guess a heat mat next to a window would be fine. It makes a fine garden plant in warm areas, it likes the sun and to be watered from the top. It is a bromeliad, a plant family noted for their ability to hold water in the vase like center of the plant, which it can absorb to use. within 12-24 months, a spike will arise, usually pink to dull red-orange in color and little bluish flowers interspread between the pink/red-orange bracts. Fruit will form from this so dont cut it off and put it in a vase. Try growing a few other bromeliads, like tillandsias and viserias. There are many types to choose from, some are mosterous. others (tillandsias) are medium to miniture in size. From Martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk Sun Mar 12 21:54:26 EST 1995 Article: 57769 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk (Martin Tom Brown) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!peernews.demon.co.uk!nezumi.demon.co.uk!Martin Subject: Re: I want invasive plants Distribution: world References: <3jie0d$7ss@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> Organization: Myorganisation Reply-To: Martin@nezumi.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.29 Lines: 26 X-Posting-Host: nezumi.demon.co.uk Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 10:52:30 +0000 Message-ID: <794659950snz@nezumi.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jie0d$7ss@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> PDietz@ix.netcom.com "Pat Dietz" writes: > I try to garden on my leach field and would like to > plant perennials that are agressive and annuals that > freely self sow. Also, I don't want to water the garden > except to start the seeds. Oh, and I live where there > is no rain all summer and the soil is clayey (CA, Sierra > foothills). So far I've had luck with yarrow (millefolium?), > Shasta daisy, California poppy, and lychnis. Any other > suggestions? I do not mind invasive plants like pearl yarrow. Some pretty self seeders that might grow well in those conditions: Honesty, Lunaria annua Pot Marigold, Calendula officinalis Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea (poisonous) Lemon balm Quite a few plants in the "cottage garden" category should be OK and are either perennial or vigorous self seeders. Regards, -- Martin Brown __ CIS: 71651,470 Scientific Software Consultancy /^,,)__/ From eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu Sun Mar 12 21:54:51 EST 1995 Article: 57773 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!nntp.cac.washington.edu!news.uoregon.edu!shays.uoregon.edu!user From: eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu (sonny hays-eberts) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want invasive plants Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Tue, 07 Mar 1995 14:15:16 -0700 Organization: u of o Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <3jie0d$7ss@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: shays.uoregon.edu Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jie0d$7ss@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>, PDietz@ix.netcom.com (Pat Dietz) wrote: > I try to garden on my leach field and would like to > plant perennials that are agressive and annuals that > freely self sow. Also, I don't want to water the garden > except to start the seeds. Oh, and I live where there > is no rain all summer and the soil is clayey (CA, Sierra > foothills). So far I've had luck with yarrow (millefolium?), > Shasta daisy, California poppy, and lychnis. Any other > suggestions? I do not mind invasive plants like pearl yarrow. try purple coneflower - echinacae. i've also seen a white variety. another useful annual i plant on my leach field is nigella sativa (love-in-a-mist) and also, if you want to try some bulbs - montbresias are another item i've plopped in there. -- there is no sign of warning in the sirens call welcome, we are the lamia -- genesis sonny hays-eberts eberts@oregon.uoregon.edu From konlen@eua.ericsson.se Sun Mar 12 21:54:58 EST 1995 Article: 57774 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!pipex!sunic!sunic.sunet.se!erinews.ericsson.se!eua.ericsson.se!euax3i1c07!konlen From: konlen@eua.ericsson.se (Lena Bolander) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: clay soil + compost = adobe ??? Date: 9 Mar 1995 08:11:36 GMT Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden Lines: 44 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jmd7o$og0@euas20.eua.ericsson.se> References: Reply-To: konlen@eua.ericsson.se NNTP-Posting-Host: euax3i1c07.eua.ericsson.se NNTP-Posting-User: konlen Status: RO X-Status: In article GKL@seas.ucla.edu, brewster@zuma.icsl.ucla.edu (Anthony Brewster) writes: > I recently added 1 part compost/mulch to 8 parts low organic clay soil. A week > after thoroughly mixing the soil + a little gypsum, 2-3 inches of rain fell > and turned the soil into a thick paste which lost a lot of volume and is > now drying into a hard adobe like mass. In a sense, the soil now seems > more compacted than before the organic material was added and is going to > need a lot of fluffing up to be suitable for planting. > > The question I have is did I not add enough compost(Nurseryman's brand, forest > products), or are some materials better than others at loosening up clay soils? > Also, does the loosening effect take time to happen, ie does the organic > matter have to decompose some before it really has an effect? How many more > parts of organic matter should be added, if any? BTW, I also turned over a > cover crop of rapeseed, rye and hairy vetch, and added about 0.5 parts kitchen > scraps. > > Thanks..Anthony > > > In order to change the soil structure you have to ad lots of the new material (compost, mulch, sand or whatever soil you want) to the surface, as deep as you need for your crop roots. I dont know how much of compost it takes but for changing clay-soil to light sandy soil there has to be more sand than clay in the blended result. But your clay will be fine as it is though it need some "fluffing" now. If you use grassclippings or other fresh green material to cover the soil between the plants the worms will do the fluffing for you during the growing season. Cover should be about 5 cm thick. Clay holds water quite well and the top cover added to that will keep the soil moist much longer than if you had a bare soil. It does also prevent the clay from cracking and getting hard. If you continue to use this method your soil will improve a little for each season by containing more organic material. You have also to choose a crop that is suitable for the clay. I have had some difficulties with carrots earlier but now the grow much better though they not are perfect (yet). regards /Lena From browder@acs.ucalgary.ca Sun Mar 12 21:55:33 EST 1995 Article: 57779 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!decwrl!tribune.usask.ca!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news.ucalgary.ca!noel.bio.ucalgary.ca!user From: browder@acs.ucalgary.ca (Leon W. Browder) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Avoiding / treating damping off Date: 9 Mar 1995 19:13:23 GMT Organization: University of Calgary Lines: 25 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: noel.bio.ucalgary.ca Status: RO X-Status: In article , arvesen@tivoli.com (Ralph Arvesen) wrote: > What exactly is damping off and how can it be treated and/or avoided? More > specifically, I am trying to germinate Texas Madrone (Arbutus xalapensis), > Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis), and Mountain Laurel (Sophora secundiflora) > seeds. Thanks. > > ... Ralph Arvesen (Austin, TX) > ... arvesen@tivoli.com Damping-off is due to a fungus. I have used two means to avoid it: No-Damp Off liquid and No-Damp Off Sphagnum moss. The latter is a natural, non-chemical approach that seems to work quite well. I am gradually eliminating use of the liquid. -- Leon W. Browder, Ph.D. Department of Biological Sciences University of Calgary Calgary, Alberta Canada T2N 1N4 (403) 220-6787 (Office) (403) 289-9311 (FAX) email: browder@acs.ucalgary.ca From waverheu@vub.ac.be Sun Mar 12 21:55:48 EST 1995 Article: 57782 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!EU.net!Belgium.EU.net!idefix.CS.kuleuven.ac.be!rc1.vub.ac.be!imol2.vub.ac.be!imolpc1 From: waverheu@vub.ac.be (Willy A Verheulpen) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Dynogen...a miracle hormone? Date: Thu, 09 Mar 95 16:14:46 GMT Organization: Brussels Free Uni Lines: 29 Message-ID: <3jn9fc$r67@imol2.vub.ac.be> References: <3jhksk$779@maze.dpo.uab.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: imolpc1.vub.ac.be X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #3 Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jhksk$779@maze.dpo.uab.edu>, comm034@uabdpo.dpo.uab.edu (Wade Woodward) wrote: >Hey now! > If this is the stuff I think it is, it is a plant hormone that occurs >naturally in plants (obviously). When sprayed on plants it basically >does what the hormone is suppose to do: make the plant grow where ever >the hormone gets. BUT, (here is my opinion based on trying something >similiar. Actually I think it was Dynogen. I think it is Giberillic Acid) FYI : If this Dynogen is Giberellic acid GA3 this might be an interesting addition. It is extracted from a fungus 'Giberelle fujikoroi (sp?)' and it has the hability of breaking seeds 'dormancy'. Unfortunately it has a very strong side effect which you noticed ie the 'cell stretching' which accounts for an excessive length growth. getting the correct dose is a tricky thing. There is a book available by Prof Deno who has been experimenting very intensely with GA3 & it's effects on very large range of plants. HTH W Verheulpen Brussels Free University -- Belgium waverheu@vub.ac.be I##################################################################I From Billsfan@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 12 21:56:05 EST 1995 Article: 57785 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: Billsfan@ix.netcom.com (Edward Gilbert) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: mulches Date: 9 Mar 1995 18:23:02 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 229 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jnh26$9n7@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> References: <3jl3tl$t1b@porky.ramp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-roc1-12.ix.netcom.com Status: RO X-Status: I am not sure where this came from but I think it is Penn. State. Article Mulches R. R. Rothenberger Department of Horticulture, College of Agriculture Mulches provide many benefits to plants. Benefits vary with the material used, the type of soil, the kind of plant and the cultural practices used. Mulches also may be used to make landscapes more attractive and usable and to reduce the amount of maintenance work. Why mulch? * Surface insulation a. to conserve moisture b. to modify extremes in temperature c. to control weeds * Soil amendment a. to improve soil aggregation and granulation b. to increase water absorption and retention c. to prevent soil compaction and improve aeration * Beautification a. to make surface areas more attractive b. to make surface areas more usable for paths, play and sitting areas c. to make areas easier to maintain Types of mulch Many types of material, organic and inorganic, may be used as mulch. Organic mulches may break down in one season or less or persist for more than one season. The first type is used primarily in vegetable and flower gardens or around newly planted trees and shrubs. They are usually decomposed enough by the end of the growing season that they can be spaded or plowed under to improve soil structure. Some common mulches of this type are listed in Table 1. Organic mulches that persist for more than one growing season are more useful around permanent plants. These are summarized in Table 2. A thick mulch provides excellent growing conditions for rhododendrons as well as many other plants in the home landscape. (photograph) Inorganic mulches may be gravel, crushed stone or some manufactured product. Most of these materials are not so beneficial to plants as the organic mulches. Some commonly used inorganic mulches are summarized in Table 3. Though not generally considered mulches, some low-growing ground cover plants produce many of the same benefits as mulch. They shade the soil surface, keeping it cool in summer and at the same time prevent evaporation. For more information on ground covers, see Guide 6835, "Selected Ground Covers for Missouri." Using mulches On the whole, mulches should not be considered a fertilizer. Most of them release some nutrients as they decompose, but the fertilizer value is very small compared with the physical effects. Where mulches are needed, use them for the mulch value and add fertility as a supplement. The effectiveness of a mulch depends on the density and texture of the material used and the depth of the layer applied. A 4- to 6-inch layer of most products is needed to effectively insulate the soil and prevent weed growth. In permanent locations a layer of black plastic film can be used under the mulch to prevent weed growth and make the mulch more effective. When black plastic is used, the mulch layer needs to be only about half as thick as in areas without it. If areas larger than 3 feet wide are covered with black plastic, holes should be punched in it every 15-18 inches to allow good distribution of water and air. Mulching around ornamental plants makes mowing easier and reduces chance of mower damage to plants. (photograph) Table 1. Relative value of mulches that break down in one season or less. Mulching suggestions Considering the growth requirements of the multitude of garden and landscape plants, obviously there is no one mulch that will be superior in all cases. The following general suggestions should help in selecting the right mulch. Bulbs. Among garden bulbs, lilies benefit more from mulching than any other group. Two to 3 inches of wood shavings, straw, chopped hay or other lightweight material serve to lower the summer soil temperature, conserve moisture and give winter protection to the more tender species. Most other bulbs are sufficiently winter hardy but benefit from mulching for other reasons. Small, shallow-planted bulbs can be heaved out of the soil by alternate freezing and thawing. This can be largely prevented by light mulching. Mulches generally improve the appearance of flowering bulbs growing in a bed of otherwise barren soil. They offer a background for viewing the new spring growth and also reduce the spattering of plants with mud during rainstorms. Table 2. Relative value of some persistent mulches. Evergreens. Plants that most need mulching are evergreen shrubs and young evergreen trees, especially the broad-leaved types. Mulches help prevent winter drying of these plants. Winter drying causes foliage to become scorched and discolored over winter and may cause the plant to die. Drying develops when foliage loses moisture faster than it can be taken up by the roots from a dry or frozen soil. Plants which should be mulched in practically every case are azalea, boxwood, Chinese and Japanese hollies, Japanese andromeda and rhododendron. Exotic evergreens and those planted north of their best zone of adaptation should also be kept well mulched the year around. Coarse mulches should be used: wood chips, bark products, shavings, chopped corn cobs, pine needles, hedge trimmings or partially finished coarse compost. Mulches should be renewed in early winter. A layer 2 to 4 inches deep is adequate in most cases but can be more or less, depending upon site, soil, climatic zone and the plant itself. The mulched area should be at least as broad as the plant itself and preferably broader since most woody plants have root systems which reach beyond the spread of the branches. Fruits. To keep young fruit trees growing well, maintain a mulched area 3 to 4 feet in radius around the base. Coarse materials such as hay, straw, wood or bark products are most useful. The mulch should be removed and piled several feet from the tree in early November to reduce the chances of mouse injury in the tree roots. The mulch can be replaced in late March or early April before new weed growth appears. Grapes and berry bushes may be kept permanently mulched. Strawberries should be mulched preferably with clean straw or with prairie hay about mid-December. Use enough mulch, loosely scattered, to barely hide the foliage. In spring when new leaves begin to grow, remove enough of the mulch to allow the plants to emerge. Table 3 Inorganic mulching materials. Mulching materials may be mounded up for winter protection of roses. Perennials. Most garden perennials benefit from summer mulches for preserving soil moisture and for reducing soil temperature. Some of those which most often need winter protection in Missouri are baby's breath, bellflower, chrysanthemums, delphinium, hardy gloxinia, hypericum, linum, lupine, oriental poppy, Stoke's aster, thrift and thyme. Some perennials which are normally cold hardy are often damaged by alternate freezing and thawing of the soil which may loosen or heave the plants and expose them to drying. Among these are aconite, coral bells and newly planted peony and plantain lily. A few plants are extremely sensitive to damage by high summer soil temperatures or drought. Delphinium, lupine, primrose and Siberian iris are among the most troublesome in this respect. Two to 3 inches of straw, hay, wood shavings or partially composted leaves would be an appropriate mulch for most perennials. Pine needles or evergreen boughs are also effective. When using a heavy layer of mulch on perennials, gradually remove it during the onset of warmer weather in late winter. Heavy mulch left too long may cause early emergence of weak, tender growth. Such growth may be killed or permanently marked by freezing. Roses. Experienced rose growers recognize the improvement in vigor and appearance of roses as a result of summer mulching. The mulch layer should be about 2 inches deep and of fairly coarse material such as unfinished compost, aged sawdust, bark, milled wood fiber or tobacco stems. By mid-November, provide adequate winter protection with a mound of finished compost, garden soil or coarse peat. The mound should be about 8 inches deep across the center of the plant. Mounds should be removed in early spring when overnight temperatures below about 28 degrees F are no longer expected. If later, unseasonably cold weather threatens and new, tender shoots have begun to grow, hasty covering may be needed. Trees and shrubs. Trees and shrubs that gain most from mulching are ones with shallow roots, ones which suffer from extended drought or are otherwise damaged by high soil temperatures. Flowering dogwood and sugar maple are examples of plants whose leaves scorch easily in dry weather. Some leaves of birches, willow and tulip trees often yellow and drop during extended drought. All trees and shrubs should be mulched at planting time to aid them in becoming established. A mulched area around the base of trees and shrubs makes mowing easier and helps prevent mower damage to the plant. The material used for mulching is perhaps less important than the simple fact that the plants are mulched. Most coarse materials are satisfactory. Avoid materials which form a tight flake and those too unsightly in the landscape. Vegetables and annual flower gardens. The primary reason for mulching vegetable and flower gardens is to conserve soil moisture. Crops most practical to mulch are beans, peppers, sweet corn, tomatoes, vine crops and other long-term summer crops with large amounts of foliage. Long-term crops started in the cool season, including broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and potatoes, will also yield better when they are mulched. Asparagus and rhubarb should be kept constantly mulched to conserve soil moisture and reduce weed problems. Some of the best mulches for annual vegetable crops are composts, straw, hay or other materials which will be largely decomposed at the end of the season. Two to 3 inches of straw, hay, wood shavings or partially composted leaves would be an appropriate mulch for most perennials. Pine needles or evergreen boughs are also effective. When using a heavy layer of mulch on perennials, gradually remove it during the onset of warmer weather in late winter. Heavy mulch left too long may cause early emergence of weak, tender growth. Such growth may be killed or permanently marked by freezing. -- Ed Gilbert Tyrants have always some slight shade of virtue; they support the laws before destroying them. --Voltaire From n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu Sun Mar 12 21:56:24 EST 1995 Article: 57789 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!reuter.cse.ogi.edu!henson!henson.cc.wwu.edu!n6848640 From: FEENEY Subject: Re: lady slippers In-Reply-To: Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Message-ID: Sender: news@henson.cc.wwu.edu (USENET-WWU) Organization: Western Washington University References: <1995Mar7.091531.39788@cobra.uni.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 07:59:58 -0800 Lines: 13 Status: RO X-Status: William and Carol Steele of Spangle Creek Labs, W 2802 Depot Springs Rd., Spangle, WA 99031 offer "Cypripedium calceolus" (laboratory propagated) and "C. reginae" (from seed) NOT collected in the wild. If you are a rock gardener, naturalist or collector you might be interested in contacting the Steele's who have dedicated themselves to a great deal of botanical research and laboratory experiementation in order to help restock areas of suitable habitat (where these lovely orchids have been lost to animal or natural forces) and to offer an alternative to the unethical practice of collecting in the wild. Their two informational brochures are a valuable addition to your horticultural library. The Steele's also offer Dyna-gro, the fertilizer they use on their seedlings. The two brochures (with color photos) are $2; the plant list is free with a SASE (shipping seasons are Spring and Fall.) From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 21:58:40 EST 1995 Article: 57810 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Is "Roundup" Safe Way To Kill A Lawn Message-ID: <1995Mar9.144826.39971@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 9 Mar 95 14:48:26 -0600 References: <3jkhku$d5t@werner.cs.mtu.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 21 Status: RO X-Status: In article , mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost) writes: > > The name of the "right-to-know" list of exposure hazard is "Material Safety > Data Sheet" which is provided by the manufacturer upon request. "MSDS" is > probably the common acronym. Incidentally, Glyphosate is the active > ingredient, I believe, and is one of the compounds that water purveyors (ie, > public utilities) must test the drinking water supply for. Glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup, is strongly bound to soil particles. It degrades there fairly quickly (days to a few weeks), and does not pose much of a threat to water supplies. I think you're confusing Lasso and Roundup (*where* do they get these names??) Lasso has atrazine as a main ingredient, and it does indeed get into groundwater (and the drinking water system). I'm willing to use glyphosate on a controlled basis. I'm not willing to use atrazine at all. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From libby@igc.apc.org Sun Mar 12 21:58:50 EST 1995 Article: 57811 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!news.igc.apc.org!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Lemon tree advice? Message-ID: References: Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 11:26:35 -0800 (PST) X-Gateway: notes@igc.apc.org Lines: 24 Status: RO X-Status: Obviously, you're going to have to feed your tree. Raintree Nurseries sells a citrus and avocado food that I've had good luck using at the recommended rate: 1tbs/plant/mo. If you can keep the tree in a sunnier site in the house, you'll get more bloom and more fruit. I kept mine under lights in the cellar on a 70 degree propagating mat when they were fairly small. Now I keep them in a south window with extra light on cloudy days. On the other hand, you can overwinter citrus in cool but not freezing place, a garage or cool greenhouse perhaps. Not much growth, not need to water often, but good if you're pinched for space. I put mine out about mid-May which is about the time to set out tomato plants here in zone 7 and leave them out til we're threatened with a hard freeze. When dragging the pot in and out, I always swear to go back to dwarf geraniums, but since you already have the Meyer, enjoy. The flavor is super. Libby From libby@igc.apc.org Sun Mar 12 21:58:55 EST 1995 Article: 57812 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!news.igc.apc.org!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: planting in philadelphia Message-ID: References: <3jlj78$pcf@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 11:30:43 -0800 (PST) X-Gateway: notes@igc.apc.org Lines: 9 Status: RO X-Status: You can probably plant dormant perennials like the hosta and clematis (which really likes sun if it is to bloom) in April, but wait til the end of April or the beginning of May for the impatiens. If you're feeling impatient, get some pansies for early color...probably available later this month or maybe at the flower show. They don't mind the cold at all and don't need a lot of sun either. Libby in Philadelphia too From libby@igc.apc.org Sun Mar 12 21:59:00 EST 1995 Article: 57813 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!news.igc.apc.org!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Yet more Martha Stewart (can you stand it?) Message-ID: References: <3jo0of$r31@post.its.mcw.edu> Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 11:41:02 -0800 (PST) X-Gateway: notes@igc.apc.org Lines: 5 Status: RO X-Status: I'm still waiting to read about what she did to her husband to earn him a restraining order and what she does to the folk who work with her. That sounded really juicy. Libby From libby@igc.apc.org Sun Mar 12 21:59:04 EST 1995 Article: 57814 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!news.igc.apc.org!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: calamondin orange tree Message-ID: References: Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 11:44:20 -0800 (PST) X-Gateway: notes@igc.apc.org Lines: 7 Status: RO X-Status: I can only suggest the usual: lots of light, especially when you put it outdoors and high phosphorous fertilizer. Raintree Nursery has a Citrus and Avocado Food that's done well for me. Libby PS Have you knoced it out of the pot to see if it's severly root bound? From libby@igc.apc.org Sun Mar 12 21:59:10 EST 1995 Article: 57815 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!news.igc.apc.org!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Natural repellants for cats Message-ID: References: <3jprfm$eb4@archive.ny.jpmorgan.com> Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 11:48:05 -0800 (PST) X-Gateway: notes@igc.apc.org Lines: 5 Status: RO X-Status: Natural cat repellants: dogs, tobacco dust, a hose attached to a motion detector blood meal, commercial animal repellant, but it usually has moth repellant, a petrochemical, in it. Libby From libby@igc.apc.org Sun Mar 12 21:59:14 EST 1995 Article: 57816 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!news.igc.apc.org!cdp!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seed Starting Indoors/Hel Message-ID: References: <24.29401.2732@pcohio.com> Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 11:51:55 -0800 (PST) X-Gateway: notes@igc.apc.org Lines: 13 Status: RO X-Status: You are going to hate this. Whether or not you put seeds under lights to geminate them depends on whether the seeds need light to germinate. However, the catalog or seed pack will usually tell you. For the most part, vegetable and herb seeds do not need light to germinate so you don't need to put them under the lights til they actually come up. At that point, keep the seedlings an inch or so below the fluorescent tube. Libby From josh@happy-man.com Sun Mar 12 22:00:10 EST 1995 Article: 57823 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: misc.rural,rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!ratty.wolfe.net!news1.wolfe.net!beauty!josh From: josh@Happy-Man.com (Joshua_Putnam) Subject: Re: Septic Helpers Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 21:13:42 GMT Message-ID: References: <1995Mar07.004247.16051@sco.com> <1995Mar7.085650.26569@ned.cray.com> Reply-To: josh@happy-man.com Lines: 26 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu misc.rural:15813 rec.gardens:57823 Status: RO X-Status: In <1995Mar7.085650.26569@ned.cray.com> strecker@cray.com () writes: >This maybe a bit off this thread but if the problem is keeping >the system active would it be a good thing to add oxygen to the >system via some form of an air pump. I see how the water will >bring oxygen into the system which is good on one hand but adds >to the saturation problem...why not simply add the oxygen supply >via a pipe/pump much like a fish tank? Any thoughts? The septic tank should be as de-oxygenated as possible -- it's purpose is to allow anaerobic decomposition of wastes. Only after this anaerobic decomposition is the wastewater ready for aerobic decomposition, which takes place in the drainfield. Excessive water flows will cause two major problems: wastes will be forced out of the tank into the drainfield before anaerobic decomposition is complete; and the drainfield may become saturated, allowing the wastewater to enter the ground water without aerobic decomposition. This is very dangerous, because aerobic decomposition is what eliminates many contagious bacteria. -- Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com Happy Man Corp. 206/463-9399 x102 4410 SW Pt. Robinson Rd., Vashon Island, WA 98070-7399 fax x108 We publish SOLID VALUE for the intelligent investor. NextMail OK Info. packet free. Send POSTAL address: Solid-Value@Happy-Man.com From eaplatt@webe.hooked.net Sun Mar 12 22:00:16 EST 1995 Article: 57824 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!decwrl!its.hooked.net!webe.hooked.net!not-for-mail From: eaplatt@webe.hooked.net (Elizabeth Platt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Community Gardens Date: 10 Mar 1995 11:02:11 -0800 Organization: Hooked Lines: 49 Message-ID: <3jq7nj$6is@webe.hooked.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: webe.hooked.net Status: RO X-Status: klier@cobra.uni.edu () wrote: > >In article <3irg27$2al@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, >piddipat@aol.com (Piddipat) writes: >> who owns the land that you garden on? i have my eye >on the vacant lot next >> to my building with the hope that i can start a >community garden on it one >> day. the city (chicago) says that i can't purchase >the lot until it gets >> title to the land (which takes at least two years). >should i boldly take >> it over while waiting for the city to gain title? >(right now it's totally >> vacant and being used as a parking lot of sorts.) > >Well, I don't know whether you *should* or not, but in >many states, one can obtain title by adverse posession >by using someone else's land for a certain number of >years without the owner complaining. Also in many >states, once you've planted a garden, you're entitled >to that year's production, regardless of the ownership >of the land. > >Kay Klier (not a lawyer!) >klier@cobra.uni.edu Other options: check with your local assessor's office to see if there is a name/address on the current owner. If actual ownership/possession falls through, perhaps some sort of long-term lease could be negotiated with the owner. If they live out of town, this effort might not be worth the hassle; this tends to be the case with abandoned or vacant lots. Also check with the tax office, as in some states, simply paying up a certain number of years' worth of property taxes--assuming the owner is delinquent--gives you legal possession of the property. Adverse possession is another way. Even if you simply "moved in" and started gardening, you can't be booted for trespassing unless the owner his/herself (or themselves) demand this be done--and if they're out of town, who's gonna know? Elizabeth (also not a lawyer!) eaplatt@hooked.com From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:00:41 EST 1995 Article: 57828 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Avoiding / treating damping off Message-ID: <1995Mar9.150113.39972@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 9 Mar 95 15:01:13 -0600 References: Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 31 Status: RO X-Status: In article , arvesen@tivoli.com (Ralph Arvesen) writes: > What exactly is damping off and how can it be treated and/or avoided? More > specifically, I am trying to germinate Texas Madrone (Arbutus xalapensis), > Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis), and Mountain Laurel (Sophora secundiflora) > seeds. Thanks. > Damping off is a seedling disease, caused by several fungi. The most common cause is Pythium. (I started substituting an "s" sound for the "th" in Pythium the year it clobbered most of my seedlings.... ;-) ) The symptoms are that the stems start looking water-soaked or pinched, and the next day the plant has keeled over. No hope of recovery. No fungal fuzzies. The treatment is prevention: clean pots or flats (soak in 1 part chlorine bleach and 9 parts water for 5 minutes (or water + enough bleach to stink, and soak for several hours), then rinse in plain water and air dry till no trace of bleach smell remains. Use sterile potting soil or a commercial seed starting mix like Jiffy Mix. Cover the seeds with a thin layer (1-2 mm) of milled sphagnum moss, which inhibits the growth of many bacteria and fungi. (I save sphagnum, which is expensive, for "good seeds", and use plain sandbox sand for ordinary flower and veggie seed). Keep the humidity high, but also allow for some air circulation. Don't slip a flat of seedlings into a sealed ziplock bag or something similar, as I've seen described in several garden magazines. It's ok for seeds, but the second they germinate, get the air circulating! Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From eaplatt@webe.hooked.net Sun Mar 12 22:00:48 EST 1995 Article: 57829 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!decwrl!its.hooked.net!webe.hooked.net!not-for-mail From: eaplatt@webe.hooked.net (Elizabeth Platt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: evening bloomer Date: 10 Mar 1995 11:25:12 -0800 Organization: Hooked Lines: 42 Message-ID: <3jq92o$7le@webe.hooked.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: webe.hooked.net Status: RO X-Status: There are quite a few night-blooming flowers out there--I don't have an exhaustive list, but one of my catalogs (Shepherd's Garden Seeds) lists five varieties that open at dusk/night: Evening primrose (Oenothera pallida); Sweet-Scented Nicotiana (Nicotiana alata); Moonflowers (Ipomea alba); "Midnight Candy" Phlox (Zalusianskya capensis); and Four O'Clocks/Marvels of Peru (Mirabilis jalapa). I believe there is also a variety of Stock that is night blooming, sometimes called "evening stock" or "night-blooming stock" (must have stayed up all night thinking of that one!) Elizabeth Platt eaplatt@hooked.com djd@cbddo2.cb.att.com (D416B/Dave Daulton/X4410/D/B) wrote: > >In article <3iikvp$9ek@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, Delled > wrote: Various evening primroses are >known for this. These are Oenthera (sp?) primroses, >not the Primula primroses. > >I also seem to recall that some daturas (angel >trumpets) do this. > >Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio > >>This summer I noticed an evening blooming flowering >perennial during a >>vacation in Rhode Island. I sat mezmorized during the >latter part of the >>day as each flower burst into bloom one at a time. >Can anyone give me >>information on the name and sources of flowers with >this behavior? >> >>Thanks, >>Eve From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:01:16 EST 1995 Article: 57835 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rosa rugosa:?from seed?fun? Message-ID: <1995Mar9.150347.39973@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 9 Mar 95 15:03:47 -0600 References: <3jn7pe$oop@nic.iii.net> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 15 Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jn7pe$oop@nic.iii.net>, taykra@philk.iii.net (CT) writes: > > I know I can propagate R. rugosa from suckers, *but* would like to > try germinating the seeds in some of the hips I've collected. These > hips (from large white, large pink, and ?"Hansa"?) have been sitting > the change bin of my car all winter in zone 5. > Mix them with damp sand or milled sphagnum (damp, not sopping wet!) and put them in a sealed baggie or jar in the back of the refrigerator for a few months. Remove from the refrigerator and germinate in flats. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From dwhitman@rohmhaas.com Sun Mar 12 22:01:25 EST 1995 Article: 57837 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!jvnc.net!krell.sh.rohmhaas.com!user From: dwhitman@rohmhaas.com (Dave Whitman) Subject: Re: Starting Columbine from seed Message-ID: Sender: news@tigger.jvnc.net (Zee News Genie) Organization: Rohm & Haas Co. References: <3j4n6s$gkc@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 21:01:56 GMT Lines: 44 Status: RO X-Status: In article , mobabbb@utkvx.utk.edu (Meredith Morris-Babb) wrote: > In Article <3j4n6s$gkc@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com>, kelumida@ix.netcom.com (Keith > Kowalski) wrote: > >Has anyone out there started species Columbine from seed? Hate to let > >all that came through winter hanging in the seed pods go to waste. > >By the way, I saw them planted with blue balloon flowers in the Atlanta > >Botanical Garden and the comb. was really nice. Any help would be > >appreciated. > >Keith Kowalski at > > Keith - I always open up the pods and scatter the seeds in the fall. Given > decent soil (and if you are in the South, that's not always a given ;-) ), > they will be blooming the next year. I had great success with this and now > have sixteen plants of my white Showy from a single plant two years ago. > > I vote for stickin' 'em in the ground and go! > > Meredith > > My parents have a huge collection of columbines, and at my request, once sent me several little plastic bags of seed pods. The seeds came with long, detailed descriptions about how to germinate and plant them, then care for the resulting plants. The instructions began something like "Break up the pods. Pick up each seed and look closely - one side is slightly darker in color from the other. This side goes DOWN when you plant it in sterilized potting soil..." The seeds are TINY. My folks let me stew over trying to figure out which side had to be on the bottom when I planted them for about two days, before calling me up and telling me to just go outside and dump the seeds on the ground in late summer/early fall and forget them. I did that, and had an incredible mass of plants the next spring. As I recall, the first year, none of the plants blumed, but the second year, they were beautiful. They seem to be reseeding and/or surviving and I have lots of blumes every year. -- dave whitman "The opinions expressed are those of the dwhitman@rohmhaas.com author, and not Rohm and Haas Company." They made me say that. Really. From lcp7a@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU Sun Mar 12 22:01:30 EST 1995 Article: 57838 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU!lcp7a From: lcp7a@faraday.clas.Virginia.EDU (Louise C. Putnam-Stoner) Subject: Re: Evergreens resistant to deer X-Nntp-Posting-Host: faraday.clas.virginia.edu Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: uva References: Date: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 01:10:11 GMT Lines: 23 Status: RO X-Status: bjp1@cornell.edu writes: > Please advise if planting fir trees --- douglas, concolor, fraser etc -- is > prudent in areas "infested" with deer. ...text delete... > Banoo Parpia > bjp1@cornell.edu Banoo- >From an old copy of "Deer Resistant Plants for Ornamental Use" from the National Park Service: Plants Rarely Damaged: Picea Pungens-- Colorado Blue Spruce Plants Seldom Severly Damamged: Ilex cornuta-- Chinese Holly Juniperus chinensis-- Chinese Junipers; Picea abies; P. glauca; P. nigra; P. rigida; P. mugo; p. Resinosa; P. sylvestris; You note that the 1st catagory doesn't say NEVER damaged! Good luck Louise (Charlottesville, VA zone 6) From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:02:28 EST 1995 Article: 57852 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: SEED PROBLEMS Message-ID: <1995Mar7.145708.39829@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 7 Mar 95 14:57:08 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 34 Status: RO X-Status: In article , willid2@rpi.edu (Dina Williams) writes: > I am a first-time gardener and am having problems with my seeds. I planted > a bunch of cabbage and broccoli indoors a month or so ago and the sprouts > grew very tall, with only two leaves, and eventually flopped over. At that > point my 18-pound cat jumped onto the table (over a fence, I might add) and > decimated the crop. I wasn't too distraught, as the sprouts had gotten > rather leggy. So I replanted. > > Some of my new sprouts are also getting leggy. I realize that the legginess > was probably the result of too little light and also maybe too much heat. I > don't have a heat mat, but they were very close to a radiator for most of > the day. I can't afford a special light, and the plants were in a > North-facing window. So I've moved them to an unheated, enclosed porch that > gets pretty warm during the day and lots more light. (I live in upstate New > York -- don't know which zone I'm in off the top of my head. The last couple > of days have been in the high 40s, and my porch seems to get warmer than > that. The plants are in the sunniest spot on the porch.) I bring them inside > in the late afternoon as it's still dipping down into the 30s at night. > They are still close to the radiator at night, but we keep our thermostat in > the low to mid 60s when we go to bed. The cooler temperatures should be just fine for "cole crops" like cabbage, broccoli, brussels sprouts, etc. In fact, maturing plants will handle several degrees of frost. Warmth loving veggies like tomato and eggplant will probably just sit there, or will die of the cold under the conditions you cite. BTW, you can stretch your growing season considerably by makeing a cold frame, and planting it early next fall with cool-weather loving veggies like cabbage and lettuce and carrots. I've harvested into January here in USDA zone 4b. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:02:36 EST 1995 Article: 57855 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.ksu.ksu.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Don't forget to pinch! Message-ID: <1995Mar9.194213.39991@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 9 Mar 95 19:42:13 -0600 References: <1995Mar7.193956.39845@cobra.uni.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 62 Status: RO X-Status: In article , Jeff.Cook@FtCollinsCO.NCR.COM (Jeff Cook) writes: > In article <1995Mar7.193956.39845@cobra.uni.edu> klier@cobra.uni.edu writes: > >>Just a reminder to all the folks starting seeds and cuttings this time >>of year: regular "pinching" (removing the terminal bud) makes >>bushier plants. > > How do I identify the terminal bud? I'm raising seedlings for the first > time this year, and I'm a newbie at this; I don't want to pinch off the > wrong thing and kill my plants. Does this technique work with all plants? It works well for dicots, which are most of the flowering plants, and most of the flowers and veggies. Their terminal buds are out in the open compared to the terminal buds of the monocots (grasses, lilies, etc.) (Challenge to the reader who has a good magnifying glass or access to a dissecting microscope: Find the terminal bud (apical meristem) of a corn plant. Nope. look. Lower than that! Lwer still! You're getting warmer! ;-) ) Back to the dicots: look at the stem of a plant, and notice how the young leaves get progressively smaller as you go toward the tip of the stem. Look also at the point where the leaves join the stem, and right above the place where the leaf joins, there will be a little knot of tissue. That's a lateral bud, or axillary bud if you prefer, and it's got the potential to become a branch, a flower or an inflorescence if it gets the right chemical signal from the rest of the plant. Mostly it just sits there and stays a bud, because the terminal bud (apical bud) is producing a hormone, auxin, which keeps the lateral bud dormant. Go back to the tip of the stem. See the leaves get progressively smaller and closer together? At the very tip, the smallest leaves are curled over the stem tip, protecting some actively dividing cells called the apical meristem. The apical meristem and the young leaves around it make up the terminal bud. The apical meristem keeps cranking out new leaves for its stem, and auxin that keeps the lateral (axillary) buds from developing. If you remove that terminal bud (traditionally done with nail of thumb and forefinger, hence "pinching"), the supply of auxin is stopped. The next 2-3 axillary buds below the place where the terminal bud was removed will start developing, usually becoming branches, and making the plant much "fuller" and "bushier" ("Thriftier" in garden parlance). When you pinch, you need remove only the terminal buds (and obviously, the young leaves surrounding them if you don't want this to be a high-precision surgical operation!). Some people tend to overdo it, and, with an unbranched seedling 4" tall, take off 2" of stem and young growth! That's kinda radical, and it tends to set the seedling back more than needs be. If you're careful, only a careful observer will be able to tell you've just pinched a flat of seedlings. If it looks like you took the kitchen shears to the plants, you've probably overdone it... Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu (whose mother used to go in the house and cry when her father decided to prune trees.. rather brutally... in an attempt to make them branch!) From mindrew@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:02:51 EST 1995 Article: 57857 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: mindrew@aol.com (Mindrew) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: 'Garden in Time' New 3D software FREE for testers Date: 9 Mar 1995 00:27:10 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 5 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jm3je$1j1@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: mindrew@aol.com (Mindrew) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: RO X-Status: If you're looking for a Mac tester with two acres in Connecticut and not too much experience in gardening (oh, and I used to review software for Electronic Games Magazine and MacUser), add me to the beta test list. -- T.F. Hines From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:03:03 EST 1995 Article: 57860 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Can't wet my seed starting mix :( Message-ID: <1995Mar7.150335.39830@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 7 Mar 95 15:03:35 -0600 References: <3jhq49$hnp@bigboote.WPI.EDU> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 25 Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jhq49$hnp@bigboote.WPI.EDU>, eeyore@wpi.WPI.EDU ( Melissa ) writes: > Okay, I'm an idiot. I admit it. I filled up 7 flats with dry > fluffy seed starting mix (peat moss/vermiculite/perlite) and > planted my seeds DRY. Now I can't seem to wet the darn stuff. > Is there ANYTHING I can do? I'm watering from underneath > since some of the seeds were not covered (i.e. light needed > for germination), but the water is not wicking up to the top > layers. Nope, not stupid. Sphagnum moss is tough to wet once it gets dry! If you hadn't planted the seeds already, I'd tell you to dump your planting mix back in a bucket or plastic bag and wet it with near-boiling water. Squeezing a little helps the soaking process, too. However, you've got seeds. So set the trays in a shallow container of warm water (baby bath temperature), and let them sit for 12 hours. If the upper surface isn't moist by that time, fill a spray bottle with a quart of warm water and 2 drops of baby shampoo or 1 drop of mild dish detergent, like Ivory liquid or Dawn. Spray the surface of the flat heavily, and let that soak down, while continuing to bottom-water. When the planting mix is saturated, remove the trays and let them drain. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From carnes@carnes.stortek.com Sun Mar 12 22:03:39 EST 1995 Article: 57867 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!ub!csn!stortek!news From: carnes@carnes.stortek.com (Steve Carnes) Subject: Re: tomato worms Message-ID: Sender: news@stortek.com Reply-To: carnes@carnes.stortek.com Organization: The Unconfigured xvnews people References: <14413790.1508908@lamg.com> Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 19:24:34 GMT Lines: 15 Status: RO X-Status: In article 1508908@lamg.com, jabes@lamg.com (Jerald Brainin) writes: >I am looking for an effective non-toxic answer to tomato worms????? Hand pick them. After work, I grab a scotch and my 3yr old and I examine the tomatoes -- she picks and eats as many yellow pears or cherries as she can reach, and I look carefully for hornworm damage. When I find the occasional beast, I carefully unhook it from the plant (only if it doesn't have the telltale white bumps from parasitic wasps) and fling it up on the garage roof for the birds to eat. The parasitized hornworms (I've only found a few) go into a bucket with tomato plant trimmings to tide them over until such time as the wee wasps flee their host, bless their little souls... From gstone@pipeline.com Sun Mar 12 22:07:10 EST 1995 Article: 57902 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!news.pipeline.com!not-for-mail From: gstone@pipeline.com (George Stone) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Johnny's Selected Seeds Catalog Date: 7 Mar 1995 19:19:29 -0500 Organization: The Pipeline Lines: 5 Message-ID: <3jit6h$ac5@pipe2.pipeline.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pipe2.pipeline.com Status: RO X-Status: --Any one interested in receiving a 1995 Johnny's Catalog can e-mail me your address and I'll see that you get one E-mail to gstone@pipeline.com GStone From grumbo@niagara.com Sun Mar 12 22:07:14 EST 1995 Article: 57903 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!niagara.com!slip0.niagara.com!grumbo From: grumbo@niagara.com (Grahame Rumsby) Newsgroups: rec.ponds,rec.gardens,rec.aquaria Subject: Re: Introducing Pete's *New* Pond Page Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 06:19:13 UNDEFINED Organization: Internet Connect Niagara Lines: 16 Message-ID: References: <3j7tsd$8hp@fido.asd.sgi.com> <1995Mar8.223718.15819@integrity.uucp> NNTP-Posting-Host: slip0.niagara.com Keywords: pond, water garden, www, koi, goldfish, water lily X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #1] Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.ponds:1157 rec.gardens:57903 rec.aquaria:53669 Status: RO X-Status: In article <1995Mar8.223718.15819@integrity.uucp> ronp@mpd.tandem.com (Ron Perez) writes: >>Pete Orelup, Silicon Graphics, Inc. (peteo@sgi.com) >>(415) 390-3697, Fax: (415) 390-6056, MS: 1-875 >>URL: http://reality.sgi.com/employees/peteo/ >Is anyone else having trouble reaching this site? Is it restricted >to SGI employees only? Let me know, it sounds like a great home-page. >Ron Perez, Tandem Computers, Inc. Austin, TX (ronp@isd.tandem.com) Nope I have no trouble accessing it and as Pete mentioned the photos do load much quicker than the old one Grahame From herb@tuna.hooked.net Sun Mar 12 22:07:26 EST 1995 Article: 57905 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!its.hooked.net!tuna.hooked.net!not-for-mail From: herb@tuna.hooked.net (Jackie Davis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Find an answer to Nutrition and Health Problems!! Date: 9 Mar 1995 10:08:16 -0800 Organization: HOOKeD Lines: 7 Message-ID: <3jng6g$k1c@tuna.hooked.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: tuna.hooked.net Status: RO X-Status: Send us your email and snail-address with telephone number and FAX number with your questions, concerns and problem to The Herb Consultants for answers on the all natural way to solve your satuation. We will send to you your information. Jackie herb@hooked.net From Rbarton@jove.acs.unt.edu Sun Mar 12 22:07:48 EST 1995 Article: 57908 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.unt.edu!usenet From: Rodney Barton Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: are wildflowers do-able in nice neighborhood? Date: 10 Mar 1995 15:33:40 GMT Organization: University of North Texas Lines: 30 Distribution: inet Message-ID: <3jprgl$80j@hermes.unt.edu> References: <3jpkvr$kfe@tattoo.sccsi.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: rbarton.hsc.unt.edu Status: RO X-Status: Go for it! I'd look for perennials that are showy and plant in patches that bloom is succession. I have the following in my meadow: Purple cone flower (Echinacea sanguinea) Clasping-leaved coneflower (Dracopis amplexicaulis) Showy evening primrose (Oenothera speciosa) Brown eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) Lance leafed correopsis, Tickseed, (?). I also have Indian blanket, gaillardia (Gaillardia pulchella) but it not as showy and doesn't compete with grasses as well as the others. Mexican hat (Ratibida columnaris) and Maximilian sunflower (Helianthis maximiliani) are also good as accents but are tall. I'd guess that most of these would do well in Tulsa. I'd stay away from canned mixes. As for in a nice neighborhood? Well my neighborhood isn't what I'd call "nice" as in fancy or expensive, but my neighbors seem to enjoy my "wild" yard when it's in bloom anyway. And nothing could be uglier than an over grazed horse pasture. I can follow up with a couple of seed suppliers for you, or (it won't help you this season) I can save seed for all of the above. Post me privately if you are interested. Rodney Rbarton@jove.acs.unt.edu From diveanddig@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:08:21 EST 1995 Article: 57914 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: diveanddig@aol.com (Diveanddig) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Clematis sources? Date: 8 Mar 1995 15:12:14 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 8 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jl32u$lam@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jkj58$2ip@dsk92.itg.ti.com> Reply-To: diveanddig@aol.com (Diveanddig) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: RO X-Status: Another Clematis specialist is - The Compleat Garden 217 Argrilla Rd. Ipswich, MA 01938-2614 Catalog costs $1.50 Deals in clematis only. I have just sent for the catalog as I am looking for some new varieties to add to my 40 vines. Bill Bird NY zone 6 From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:08:28 EST 1995 Article: 57916 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Don't forget to pinch! Message-ID: <1995Mar7.193956.39845@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 7 Mar 95 19:39:56 -0600 Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 31 Status: RO X-Status: Just a reminder to all the folks starting seeds and cuttings this time of year: regular "pinching" (removing the terminal bud) makes bushier plants. I usually start pinching seedlings when there's 4-6 true leaves or leaf pairs. (Jerry: what do you recommend to your students?) Also, you only have to pinch off the growing tip. You needn't take off more than the last tiny leaves and the bud, not nicely expanded leaves. If you are pinching seedlings, the seedlings should be about the same size after being pinched as they were before you started! Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From wl-the_invisible_gardener-iga@society.com Sun Mar 12 22:08:32 EST 1995 Article: 57917 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!psinntp!society.com!wl-the_invisible_gardener-iga Subject: Re: Using Epsom salts in in plant soil? Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: wl-the_invisible_gardener-iga@society.com Date: Tue, 07 Mar 95 09:35:41 EST Message-ID: <28484PFMVFGSTXBISFN@society.com> Organization: Lines: 45 Status: RO X-Status: Hello you all, heres some info on using epson salts and tea and soap.... I like what jerry has to say except that most things he talks about is not very organic nor natural and should not be used in your organic garden.. however I have been reccomending the use of these things for many years but I advise my students to only use the organic and natural products available.... epson salts, if used correctly is a great tool for roses, lawns, flower bed, veg gardens etc.. but must be used a little bit and not over done soap.. please use only natural products not dishwashing liquid! read the ingredients most of that stuff was never meant to be used on plants, let alone food stuff. If you are interested my new book is out.. called "natural Pest Control" by andrew lopez (thats me) better known as The invisible gardener. Book is available by ordering at local book stores or thru 1-800-354-9296. Happy Growing Organically of course! |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | Andrew Lopez | | The Invisible Gardener (rm) | | WL-The_Invisible_Gardener-IGA@Society.com Don't | | Operating TOBBS( The Organic BBS)(tm) Panic | | Home of The Organic BBS(tm) it's | | The Invisible Gardeners of America(tm) Organic! | | 1-310-457-4268.....2400 | | 1-310-457-4879.....14,400 | | for more info call 1=310-457-4438 | |_________________________________________________________________| --- Sent via WorldLink on 03/07/95 at 05:36:08. From: The Invisible Gardener Malibu, CA Information on organics. From wl-the_invisible_gardener-iga@society.com Sun Mar 12 22:08:36 EST 1995 Article: 57918 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!psinntp!society.com!wl-the_invisible_gardener-iga Subject: use of dormant sprays on fruit trees Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: wl-the_invisible_gardener-iga@society.com Date: Tue, 07 Mar 95 09:35:42 EST Message-ID: <28478MXRYYOHLXVSTLH@society.com> Organization: Lines: 41 Status: RO X-Status: IN>> since i recently learned that i've missed the time for dormant sprays, i IN>> i do have problems with insects, mites, etc; what should i do, esp. if i IN>> prefer not using potentially harmful insecticides. thanks  IN>> bert IN>> IN>> Bert, you can use the Fine Horticultural Oil year round! just add a dash od Dr Bronners peppermint soap and a dash od seaweed to increase effectiveness! yours organically of course! andrew lopez the invisible gardener |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | Andrew Lopez | | The Invisible Gardener (rm) | | wl-the_invisible_gardener-iga@society.com Don't | | Operating TOBBS( The Organic BBS)(tm) Panic | | Home of The Organic InfoBank(tm) and it's | | The Invisible Gardeners of America(tm) Organic! | | 1-310-457-4268.....2400 | | 1-310-457-4879.....14,400 | | for more info call 1=310-457-4438 | |_________________________________________________________________| --- Sent via WorldLink on 03/07/95 at 05:36:10. From: The Invisible Gardener Malibu, CA Information on organics. From karin@mothra.rose.hp.com Sun Mar 12 22:08:53 EST 1995 Article: 57921 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!apollo.hp.com!lf.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!icon!hpchase.rose.hp.com!karin From: karin@mothra.rose.hp.com (Karin Doyle) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Robot Lawnmower Date: 9 Mar 1995 22:17:40 GMT Organization: Hewlett Packard Roseville Site Lines: 27 Message-ID: <3jnuq4$7ok@hpchase.rose.hp.com> References: <3jdvb9$rc4@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mothra.rose.hp.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8.4] Status: RO X-Status: At the rate of $65.00 USA dollars/month, I could probably justify the robot in about sixteen months. But how will this impact all the gardeners? Scary thought. ****** ************************************************************ **** *********** **************** ** ********** **************** *** ********** *** * * * * **** **** ******* *** **** ***** ******** ******* ** **** ***** ********* ****** ** **** ***** **** ***** **** *** ***** ****** ***** **** *** **** * ***** ***** ** ****** *** ** ***** * ***** ***** ** ****** *** * **|/ _ _ . / ) _ / _ * ***** **** ** ****** *** * **|\_(_\_/(_/_/)_ __/_/_(_)_\/_/_(/_ * ***** **** *** ******* ** * ****** / ** *** *** *** ******** * ******* *** * ** **** ********** ********************************************* * * ****** Karin Doyle Telephone: T/916-785-2652 Hewlett-Packard FAX: 916-785-5132 SMDO E-mail: karin@mothra.rose.hp.com 8000 Foothills Blvd. Mailstop: 5575 Roseville, CA 95757-6588 From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:09:01 EST 1995 Article: 57922 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seed Starting Indoors/Help Message-ID: <1995Mar10.205437.40052@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 10 Mar 95 20:54:37 -0600 References: <24.29401.2732@pcohio.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 19 Status: RO X-Status: In article , Libby Goldstein writes: > You are going to hate this. Whether or not you put seeds under > lights to geminate them depends on whether the seeds need light to > germinate. However, the catalog or seed pack will usually tell > you. > > For the most part, vegetable and herb seeds do not need light to > germinate so you don't need to put them under the lights til they > actually come up. > Actually, the red wavelengths of light, the ones most useful in breaking dormancy when there's a phytochrome system involved, penetrate fairly well into the soil... an inch or more in most cases. It never hurts to put seeds under light, as it helps the seedling orient properly (oh yeah! I know! green side up! ;-) ) Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From dragon@csulb.edu Sun Mar 12 22:09:17 EST 1995 Article: 57925 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!csulb.edu!beach.csulb.edu!dragon From: Brian Lo Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: FAQ: Faba Beans Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:42:06 -0800 Organization: Cal State Long Beach Lines: 324 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: beach.csulb.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO X-Status: FABA BEAN Vicia faba (see seperate files on beans and lima beans) Faba bean, also called Fababean, Broadbean and Fava Bean is a cool temperature vegetable popular in the Middle East and Europe, and uncommon in the U.S. Pods are shelled when seeds are green for cooking as a green vegetable, commonly in stews. The seed may be boiled, or used roasted as a snack food. They are also harvested after the seed has dried and ground to a flour and used for falafel, a popular middle eastern food. VARIETIES Spring planted varieties require approximately 130-150 days, while over- wintering varieties require approximately 240 days to reach dry seed maturity. Green-pod harvest for green seed would be about 30 days less: Aquadulce Claudia for overwinter or spring planting; Aprovecho Select, Green Windsor, Broad Windsor, Equina, Ipro for spring planting. Dwarf type: Coles Dwarf Prolific (suited to windy areas where plants may be blown over). Heat tolerant type: Foul Muddamma. For trial - spring planting: Dread- nought, Acme, Stereo. SEED COMPANIES Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047 Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915 Bountiful Gardens, 19550 Walker Road, Willits, CA 95490 Crookham Co. Caldwell, ID 83606 Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352 Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624 Johnny's Select Seeds, Foss Hill Road, Albion, Maine 04910 Nichols Garden Nursery, 1190 No. Pacific Highway, Albany, OR 97321-4598 Rogers NK Seed Co. POB 4272 Boise, ID 83711 Sunseeds, 2320 Technology Pkwy. Hollister, CA 95023 W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 Territorial Seed Co. POB 27, Lorane, OR 97451 Samual Yates, Ltd., Withyfold Dr., Macclesfield, Cheshire SKI0 2BE, England Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc. 1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202 SOILS Faba beans do best on well-drained silt loam soils. Sandy loams are but require more frequent irrigation. Faba beans produce best on soils which are neutral or slightly acidic. Lime should be applied if pH levels are below 5.6. Follow soil test recommendations. Rotate faba beans with grains or other crops to reduce damage from soil-borne diseases. Crop residues of lettuce, carrots, cabbage, parsnips, and cucurbits may harbor white mold sclerotia. SEED TREATMENT Use fungicide and insecticide treated seed. SOIL TEMPERATURE Faba beans germinate and grow well under cool soil conditions such as those favorable for production of peas. Fields may be planted as soon as they can be worked in the spring, however, delaying planting till June or July may reduce broad bean virus or chocolate spot infection. In the temperate areas of the Pacific Northwest, cold-hardy varieties like Aquadulce Claudia may be planted in the fall (late September or October). SEEDING AND SPACING Faba Bean seed numbers about 200-800 per pound. About 60-80 lbs. are used per acre. Seed should be planted 5-6 inches apart in the row, with rows 24-36 inches apart. Plant populations should be about 60,000 per acre. Use heavier seeding rate for fall planting than spring planting to compensate for some over-winter mortality. FERTILIZER Good fertilizer usage is only one of the important management practices, including proper seeding, pest control, adequate irrigation, and timely harvest. Because of the influence of soil type, climatic conditions, and other cultural practices, crop response from fertilizer may not always be accurately predicted. Soil test results, field experience, and knowledge of specific crop requirements help determine the nutrients needed and the rate of application. Fertilizer applications for faba beans should insure adequate levels of all nutrients. Optimum fertilization is intended to result in for top quality and yield, commensurate with maximum returns. Recommended soil sampling procedures should be followed in order to estimate fertilizer needs. The Oregon State University Extension Service agent in your county can provide you with soil sampling instructions and soil sample bags and information sheets. Recommendations are based on a row spacing of 36". With decreased row spacings fertilizer rates should be increased. Use the following recommended guidelines: For WESTERN OREGON: NITROGEN (N) Rates of 50 to 80 lbs of N/A are generally recommended where faba beans are grown on fields having a history of heavy fertilization and intensive culture. Rates of 80 to 110 lbs of N/A are recommended where forage legumes or heavily fertilized vegetable crops were not grown the preceding year. PHOSPHORUS (P) Phosphorus fertilizer should be banded at planting for vigorous early seedling growth. Bands should be located 2 to 3 inches to the side and 2 to 3 inches below the seed. Response is greatest from bands properly placed at 2 x 2 inches. If the OSU soil test Apply this amount of for P reads (ppm): phosphate (P2 O5) lb/A: 0 - 15120 - 150 15 - 60 90 - 120 Over 60 60 - 90 POTASSIUM (K) Potassium should be applied before planting or banded at planting time. Amounts above 60 lbs K2 O per acre should be broadcast and worked into the seed bed. If the OSU soil test Apply this amount of for K reads (ppm): potassium(K2 O) (lb/A) 0 - 7590 - 120 75 - 15060 - 90 150 - 20040 - 60 Over 200 None SULFUR (S) Include 20-30 lbs/A of S in the fertilizer program for faba beans. S is sometimes contained in fertilizers used to supply other nutrients such as N, P, and K, but may not be present in sufficient quantity. Plants absorb S in the form of sulfate. Fertilizer materials supply S in the form of sulfate and elemental S. Elemental S must convert to sulfate in the soil before the S becomes available to plants. The conversion of elemental S to sulfate is usually rapid for fine ground (less than 40 mesh) material in warm moist soil. S in the sulfate form can be applied at planting time. Some S fertili- zer materials such as elemental S and ammonium sulfate have an acidifying effect on soil. The S requirements of faba beans can be provided by: 1. The application of 20-30 lbs S/A in the form of sulfate at or prior to seeding. 2. Applying 30-40 lbs S/A as fine ground (finer than 40 mesh) elemental S the preceding year. 3. Applying coarser ground elemental S at higher rates and less fre- quently. MAGNESIUM (Mg) When the soil test value is below 1.5 meq Mg/100g of soil or when cal- cium (Ca) is ten times more than the Mg, apply 10 to 15 lb Mg/A banded at planting. If deficiency symptoms appear, spray with 10 lbs Epsom salts in 100 gals of water/A. Mg can also be supplied in dolomite, which is a liming material and reduces soil acidity to about the same degree as ground limestone. Dolomite should be mixed into the seed bed several weeks in advance of seeding. BORON (B) Responses of faba beans to B applications have not been observed in experiments on growers' fields in western Oregon. ZINC (Zn) Responses of faba beans to B applications have not been observed in experiments on growers' fields in western Oregon. When the soil test is below 1 ppm Zn, a response to Zn is expected on all soils. Where Zn is required, either 10 lb/A of Zn should be broadcast and worked into the soil prior to planting or 3 to 4 lbs/A of Zn should be banded with the fertilizer at planting time. A broadcast application of 10 lb Zn/A should supply Zn needs for 2 or 3 years. LIME Lime applications should be made when the soil pH is 5.5 or below, or when calcium (Ca) levels are below 5 meq Ca/100g of soil. If the OSU SMP Buffer Apply this amount test for lime reads: of lime (T/A): Below 5.2 4 - 5 5.2 - 5.6 3 - 4 5.6 - 5.9 2 - 3 5.9 - 6.2 1 - 2 Over 6.2 0 The liming rate is based on 100-score lime. Lime should be mixed into the seed bed at least several weeks before seeding. A lime application is effective over several years. Do not apply lime when the soil pH is above 6.0. EASTERN OREGON, east of the Cascades: lbs. per acre Nitrogen (N): 50-80 Phosphorus (P2 O5): 50-100 Potassium (K2 O): up to 50 Sulfur (S): 20-30 IRRIGATION Irrigation is not recommended until about 2 weeks after planting. Too much water at seeding slows growth and may increase root rots. During the rest of the season, keep moisture levels in the top foot of soil at or above 50% of available water. To avoid any water stress the two critical times during bean development are during bloom and pod set. It is advisable to irrigate in the early morning hours so the plants may dry off before the night. A total of 10" - 16" may be needed in western Oregon depending on location planting date, seasonal variation and variety. Approximate summer irrigation needs for the Hermiston area have been found to be: 3.5 inches in May, 5.0 in June, 7.5 in July, and 7.0 in August. Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does dictate frequency of water application. Lighter soils need more frequent water applications, but less water applied per application. HARVESTING AND HANDLING Faba beans are usually harvested when the seeds have reached full size but are still green. They may also be harvested after the pods and seeds have dried for various uses. When harvested green, pods may be sold for shelling by consumers or shelled, and the green seed packaged for sale. Store at 40 to 45 F. and relative humidity of 95%. Faba bean pods or seed lose moisture rapidly if not properly protected by packaging or by a relative humidity of 95% or above. When the relative humidity approaches saturation, as in consumer packages, temperatures above 45 F. must be avoided or decay is likely to be serious within a few days. Containers of faba beans should be stacked to allow abundant air circulation. If containers are packed close together, the temperature may rise because of the heat of respiration, and the faba beans will deteriorate rapidly. When faba beans are stored in large bins or pallet boxes, provision should be made for rapid cooling. Faba beans stored too long or at too high a storage temperature are subject to various decays. PEST CONTROL FOR FABA BEANS THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION- ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL. USE PESTICIDES SAFELY! Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. Bathe or shower after each use. Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have). Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from pesticide use. WEED CONTROL The Pacific Northwest Weed Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper culti- vation, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control. INSECT CONTROL The Pacific Northwest Insect Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. DISEASE CONTROL The Pacific Northwest Disease Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable sources reduces risk from "seed born" diseases. --------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------- This information was prepared by the Oregon State University Extension Service from Oregon and Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable production guidelines from public institutions in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial vegetable producers. Address comments or questions to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S. Mansour, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University Corvallis, OR 9733l --------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------- From dragon@csulb.edu Sun Mar 12 22:09:23 EST 1995 Article: 57926 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!csulb.edu!beach.csulb.edu!dragon From: Brian Lo Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: FAQ: Cabbages Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:42:47 -0800 Organization: Cal State Long Beach Lines: 1514 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: beach.csulb.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO X-Status: CABBAGE Brassica oleracea (Capitata Group) VARIETIES (approximately 75 days for early varieties, 90 days for mid-season, to over 120 days for late large-headed varieties). A wide range of excellent cabbage varieties are available that are resistant to heat, cold, and a number of important diseases and physiological disorders. Choose test varieties carefully. The following is only a repre sentative listing. Fresh Market: Early - Heads Up, Market Victor, Earliana, Stonehead, Princess, Golden Acre. For Trial: Cheers, Green Cup (both Fusarium Yellows resistant and Black Rot tolerant) Mid-season - Applause, Bravo, Market Topper, Market Prize, Tastee, Protector. For trial: Pacifica, Quisto. K-K cross and O-S Cross (heat tolerant, large). Late - Zerlina, S-D Cross, Excel, Bartolo, Winter Star, Danish Ballhead strains, Houston Evergreen. Savoy Cabbage: Savoy Ace. Processing: Processor specifies varieties. The following have been grown successfully: Bravo, King Cole, Sanibel, Roundup, Superette, Titan 90, Danish Ballhead, Late Flat Dutch. For trial: Atria (very late); Carlton (mid-season); Ergon (very late); Krautking (late, large); Krautpacker (mid- season); Marvellon (early); Orbit (late); Rodolfo (mid-season); Sagitta (late). Those for trial are suggested on the basis of New York data. Red Cabbage: Ruby Perfection, Red Acre, Ruby, Ruby Ball, Red Head. For Trial: Cardinal. Note: Black Rot resistance is reported for the varieties Cheers, Green Cup, Zerlina, Bravo, Genesis, Protector and the red types Ruby Perfection and Red Head. Also, Rio Verde, Bravo, King Cole, Little Rock, Falcon, Titanic 90, and Ruby Perfection (red) may be less susseptible to thrip injury (New York data). Overwintering Cabbage, for trial only: Green Glow, Spring Time, Spring Hero, Spring Queen 2nd, F-S Cross. Varieties are listed by order of maturity. Intended for planting in September for spring and early summer harvest (approximately 220 days) in mild winter areas. Do not plant too early to avoid bolting. Ornamental Cabbages, also known as flowering kales: Sekito, Red Pigeon, White Pigeon, Rose Bouquet, White Lady. These may be marketed as garnishes for salad bars. Novelty: Walking Stick Cabbage. Used to make walking sticks with character! Thompson and Morgan Seed Co. provides seed and instructions. SEED COMPANIES Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047 Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915 American Takii Inc., 301 Natividad Rd. Salinas, CA 93906 Bejo Seeds, 1323 E. Fir St. Mount Vernon WA 98273 Brinker Orsetti Seed Co., 2339 A Technology Parkway, Hollister CA 95023-2513. 408/636-4822 Daehnfeldt Inc. POB 947, Albany, OR 97321 Elsoms Seeds Ltd. Spalding, Lincolnshire, England PE11 1QG Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352 Gleckler's Seedmen, Unusual Seed Specialties. Metamora OH 43540 Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624 Reed's Seeds, 3343 NYS Route 215, Cortland, NY 13045 Rogers NK Seed Co. PO Box 4727 Boise, ID 83711-4727 Nunhems Zaden, Canners Seed Corp. 221 E. Main St. Lewisville, ID 83431 Royal Sluis Inc. 1293 Harkins Rd. Salinas, CA 93901 Sakata Seed America Inc. P.O. Box 877, Morgan Hill, CA 97037 Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240 Sunseeds Genetics, Inc. P O Box 1438, Hollister, CA 95023 Thompson and Morgan. POB 1308 Jackson, NJ 08527 ph: 201/363-2225 W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc. 1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202 IMPORTANT Before planting this Crucifer crop, consider the following important factors: 1. No crucifer crop, or related weed has been present in the field for at least 2 years, 4 years preferable. Crucifer crops include cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kale, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage, all mustards, turnips, rutabagas, radishes etc. Cruciferous weeds include wild radish, wild mustards etc. Also, crucifer plant waste should not have been dumped on these fields. 2. Soil pH should be 6.5 or higher. Soil pH over 6.8 is necessary to manage club root. The application of 1500 lbs/acre of hydrated lime, 6 weeks prior to planting is recommended for soils with pH less than 7.5 for club root control (see Disease Control section for more details). 3. Arrange to keep transplanted and direct-seeded fields separate to minimize spread of certain diseases that are more prevalent in transplanted fields. SOIL Cabbage may be grown on a variety of soils but it does best on a well- drained, loam soil well supplied with organic matter. Sandy loams are preferred for early crops. Adjust soil pH to 6.0 - 6.8 for maximum yields. SEED AND SEED-BED TREATMENTS Cabbage seed numbers approximately 144,000 per pound. Pelletizing is not necessary but primed and coated seed is becoming popular. Consult your seed dealer about the availability of primed seed. Cabbage is most commonly direct seeded. Some early production is transplanted. Use certified, or hot-water treated seed and fungicide treat seed to protect against several serious seed borne diseases. Hot water seed treat ments are very specific (122 F exactly, for 25 to 30 minutes; the wet seed must then be quickly cooled and dried). The seed treatments are best done by the seed company, and can usually be provided upon request. TRANSPLANT PRODUCTION Seed Beds for transplants: Locate these in an open, well drained area, free of club-root. Lime if necessary, and fertilize with 10-30-10 at 625 lb/acre or its equivalent. When seedlings are to be grown in a seed-bed for production of trans plants, choose a site where cole crops have not been grown before, or fumigate prior to seeding with an approved fumigant following lable and manufacturer's recommendations. Always use certified or hot water treated seed for transplant produc tion. Seed in a greenhouse for an early crop, in a cold frame for a less early crop, and in outdoor seed-beds when the weather is warm enough for germination and growth (above 50 F). In each case seed 5-6 weeks ahead of when the plants are wanted for transplanting. Four to 6 ounces of high quality, sized and density graded seed will provide enough transplants to plant 1 acre. In the seed-bed use a drill with a scatter shoe to drop 15 to 20 seeds per foot in rows 10 inches apart. Greenhouse transplant production Precision seed into modular flats, styrofoam trays or blocks of a peat- lite (peat vermiculite) mix or other suitable growing medium. Crowding should be avoided. Provide 1.5-2.5 square inches per plant in modular trays. Temperatures should be maintained above 45 F at night and below 85 F during the day. Seven days before transplanting start the hardening off process. Follow the same process in a cold frame, or seed directly into the covered soil after it has been limed, fertilized and fumigated as for outdoor seed-beds. FIELD SEEDING In western Oregon fresh market cabbage may be field seeded from mid March to August 10. Cabbage for processing is generally seeded from mid April to the end of July. Preparation for direct seeding needs the same attention a seed-bed area would be given A fine-textured soil, free of rocks, clods and trash, firm and very level, is required for precision seeding. Use a precision seeder such as a Stanhay, or Gaspardo vacuum planter, to drop 2 seeds 2 inches apart every 15 inches. After the first true leaves have formed, thin to one plant per location. In continuous seeding, thin the plants so as to leave 15 to 18 inches between them. SOIL Cabbage may be grown on a variety of soils but it does best on a well- drained, loam soil well supplied with organic matter. Sandy loams are preferred for early crops. Adjust soil pH to 6.5 - 7.0 for maximum yields. FERTILIZER A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements. The following recommendations are general guidelines for western Oregon: Good management practices are essential if optimum fertilizer responses are to be realized in the production of cabbage. These practices include use of recommended varieties, selection of adapted soils, weed control, disease and insect control, good seedbed preparation, proper seeding methods, and timely harvest. Because of the influence of soil type, climatic conditions, and other cultural practices, crop responses from fertilizer may not always be accu rately predicted. Soil test results, field experience, and knowledge of specific crop requirements help determine the nutrients needed and the rate of application. The fertilizer application for cabbage should insure adequate levels of all nutrients. Optimum fertilization is intended to produce top quality and yields in keeping with maximum returns. The suggested fertilizer applications are based on a 36" row spacing. With decreased row spacings, increased fertilizer rates are suggested. Recommended soil sampling procedures should be followed in order to estimate fertilizer needs. The Oregon State University Extension Service agent in your county can provide you with soil sampling instructions, soil sample bags, and information sheets. Where cabbage is direst seeded, see "field fertilization section below. If transplants are to be used, and if transplants are to be field grown, fertilize transplant productions beds as follows: TRANSPLANT BED FERTILIZATION Broadcast and work into the transplant bed: 1. 40 to 70 lbs Nitrogen/A. 2. Apply phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, magnesium, boron, molybdenum, and lime up to the maximum rates suggested below for field applications. TRANSPLANTING SOLUTIONS Dilute solutions of complete fertilizers high in phosphorus promote quick recovery and early growth of transplants. One-half pint of trans planting solution should be injected into the furrow at the roots of each plant at time of transplanting. A transplanting solution may be prepared by dissolving 3 lbs. of 11-48-0 or similar monoammonium phosphate fertilizer in a 55 gallon drum of water. FIELD FERTILIZATION NITROGEN (N): A total application of 80-100 lbs. N/A is suggested. Broadcast about half of the N just prior to direct seeding or trans planting or band 60-90 lbs N/A with the phosphorus. Broadcast the remaining nitrogen at the time of last cultivation, or 1 to 2 weeks before the first cutting. At the higher rates, two applications should be made 2 to 3 weeks apart. Nitrogen liquid fertilizer formulations having herbicidal effects: AN-20, Ammonium Thiosulfate and mixtures of these two materials can be used successfully in a number of Brassica crops such as broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower. The amount of nitrogen per gallon of material, the rate at which it is applied, and the phyto-toxicity of the material determines what crops these can be used on. All of these materials, when applied at the proper time and manner have the added benefit of ancillary control of many small (less than 3 inches) broadleaf weeds such as groundsell, pineapple weed, shepherdspurse, mallow, pigweed, hairy nightshade chickweed and many others. Poor, or no control is obtained on lambs quarters, purslane, henbit, black nightshade, knotweed, sow thistle, malva goosefoot and grasses. When using these nitrogen sources in foliar applications, follow cau tions listed. Severe crop injury may occur if cautions are not observed. General cautions for the use of nitrogen liquid fertilizer formulations are: * Apply only after the crop has at least two true leaves. Application at between the 3rd and 6th true leaf stages is least likely to cause crop injury. * Do not apply within 4 days of a period of cool, cloudy or rainy weather, or if free water is present on the leaves. * Discontinue application if spray droplets do not roll off or "bead- up" on the leaves. This indicates a deficiency of adequate waxy cuticle, and may be a temporary condition due to rapid growth, cloudy or rainy weather, or more seriously, the lack of adaptability of the variety. * Do not apply within 4 days after a foliar pesticide has been applied, or with any wetting agent. * Use large nozzles to minimize misting and possible injury to the crop growing point. * Direct the spray to the base of the crop with wide, low nozzles, or use crop shields whenever this can be done while still obtaining complete coverage of the weeds. AN-20 fertilizer formulation: This is a manufactured 20-0-0 formulation (containing 20% N) that may be applied at 50 to 70 gallons of product per acre as a foliar spray. This formulation weighs 10.55 lbs per gallon and contains 2.11 lbs N/gallon of product and would provide approximately 100 to 140 lbs N/acre (but some N is lost through volatilization). Do not irrigate for 48 hours after application, but irrigate then to move the fertilizer into the root zone. When this treatment is used, subsequent nitrogen side dressings may be reduced by a portion of the amount of N applied in the treatment. Note: Mixtures of An-20 and Ammonium thiosulfate (usually 1:1) can be made which will reduce the amount of nitrogen applied, provide some sulfur (if AN-20 only would have been applied, and reducing the sulfur if only Ammonium thiosulfate were to be used), and be as effective as either material alone. Application rates are still held at 50 to 70 gallons of the mixture per acre. Note: This formulation is different from a solution that could be prepared by dissolving ammonium nitrate in water. Such a solution would not have the same concentration or herbicidal effect. Also, To prevent crop injury, follow the cautions listed above. ***** Ammonium thiosulfate: This is a manufactured 12-0-0-26 formulation (containing 12% N and 26% sulfur) and weighs 9.33 lbs per gallon. It may be applied at 50 to 70 gallons of product per acre as a foliar spray. This solution contains 1.12 lbs nitrogen and 2.4 lbs sulfur per gallon of product and would provide approxi mately 55 to 75 lbs N/acre (some N may be lost through volatilization). At the application gallonage mentioned, about 150 to 168 lbs of S are also applied. Do not irrigate for 48 hours after application, but irrigate then to move the fertilizer into the root zone. When this treatment is used, subsequent nitrogen side dressings may be reduced by a portion of the amount of N applied in the treatment. Note: Mixtures of An-20 and Ammonium thiosulfate (usually 1:1) can be made which will reduce the amount of nitrogen applied, provide some sulfur (if AN-20 only would have been applied, and reducing the sulfur if only Ammonium thiosulfate were to be used), and be as effective as either material alone. Application rates are still held at 50 to 70 gallons of the mixture per acre. Also, To prevent crop injury, follow the cautions listed above. ***** PHOSPHORUS (P): Phosphorus fertilizer should be banded at the time of seeding or trans planting. Bands should be located 2-3" to the side of the seeds or plants and 3-4" deep. If the OSU soil test Apply this amount of for P reads (ppm): phosphate (P2 O5) (lb/A): 0 - 30 150 - 200 30 - 50 100 - 150 Over 25 80 - 100 POTASSIUM (K): Limit band applications of K to 90 lbs K2 O/A. Broadcast remainder of K and work into seedbed prior to planting. The total of N plus K2 O in the band should not exceed 90 lbs./A. Apply K as follows: If the OSU soil test Apply this amount of for K reads (ppm): potash (K2 O lb/A): 0 - 150 150 - 200 150 - 200 90 - 150 200 - 250 60 - 90 Over 250 None SULFUR (S): Include 25-40 lbs/A of S in the fertilizer pro gram. S is sometimes contained in fertilizers used to supply other nutrients such as N, P, and K, but may not be present in sufficient quantity. Plants absorb S in the form of sulfate. Fertilizer materials supply S in the form of sulfate and elemental S. Elemental S must convert to sulfate in the soil before the S becomes avail able to plants. The conversion of elemental S to sulfate is usually rapid for fine ground (less than 40 mesh) material in warm moist soil). Sulfur in the sulfate form can be applied at planting time. Some S fertilizer materials such as elemental S and ammonium sulfate have an acidify ing effect on soil. The S requirements of crucifers can be provided by: 1. The application of 25-40 lbs S/A in the form of sulfate at or prior to seeding or planting. 2. Applying 40-50 lbs S/A as fine ground (finer than 40 mesh) elemental S the preceding year. 3. Applying coarser ground elemental S at higher rates and less fre quently. MAGNESIUM (Mg): When the OSU soil test value for Mg is below 2 meq/100g soil, band 15- 20 lbs Mg/A at transplanting or seeding time. If Mg deficiency symptoms develop, spray with 10 lbs of Epsom salts in 100 gals of water/A. Magnesium can also be supplied in dolomite, which is a liming material and reduces soil acidity to about the same degree as ground limestone. Dolomite should be mixed into the seedbed at least several weeks in advance of seeding and preferably the preceding year. It can also be supplied by the application of Epsom salts or Sul-Po-Mag fertilizer prior to seeding or transplanting as follows: * Sul-Po-Mag at 150 to 200 lb./acre. * OR Epsom salts at 150 to 200 lb./acre. * OR Dolomitic Limestone at 225 to 275 lb./acre. BORON (B): Cabbage is sensitive to boron deficiency. Apply boron as follows: If the OSU soil test Apply this amount for B reads (ppm): of B (lbs/A): 0 - 1 3 - 4 broadcast 1 - 3 1 - 2 broadcast Over 3 1/2 - 1 foliar spray A satisfactory foliar spray contains 1 lb B/100 gals of water. Fertilizers containing B should not be banded. Fields East of the Cascades or where winter rainfall is low, and to which the higher rates of boron has been applied should not normally be planted to beans or cucumbers the following year, as both these crops are extremely sensitive to boron. LIME: If a mineral soil is below pH 6.3 or an organic soil is below 5.5 and/or the calcium (Ca) level is below 8 meq/100g soil lime should be applied. Compared to other vegetables cabbage has a fairly high lime requirement. The application of lime is suggested when the soil pH is below 6.3 If the OSU SMP Buffer Apply this amount test for lime reads: of lime (T/A): Below 5.6 5 - 7 5.7 - 5.9 4 - 5 5.9 - 6.1 3 - 4 6.1 - 6.3 2 - 3 6.3 - 6.6 1 - 2 Over 6.6 None The liming rate is based on 100-score lime. Lime should be mixed into the seedbed at least several weeks before seeding and preferably the preceding year. A lime application is effective over several years. Some soils may have a fairly high OSU SMP buffer value (over 6.6) and a low pH (below 6.0). This condition can be caused by the ap plication of acidifying fertilizer. In this case the low pH value is temporary and the pH of the soil will increase as the fertilizer completes its reaction with the soil. This temporary "active" acidity from fertilizer is encountered follow ing recent applications of most nitrogen fertilizer materials. Acidifying fertilizers also have a long term acidifying effect on soil which is cumula tive and leads to lower OSU SMP buffer readings. Sandy soils to which fertilizers have not been recently applied some times record low pH and high SMP buffer values. In such cases, a light application of lime (1 to 2 ton/A) should suffice to neutralize soil acidity. For acid soils low in Mg (less than 0.5 meq Mg/100g soil) one T/A of dolomite lime can be used as a Mg source. Dolomite and ground limestone have about the same ability to neutralize soil acidity. The P, K, Mg, B and lime recommendations are based on soil test values from the Soil Testing Laboratory, OSU, Corvallis, Oregon. These recommendations are largely based on the results of experiments conducted by Oregon State University Agricultural Experiment Station Hort iculture and Soils Department research faculty. These recommendations are quoted from OSU Fertilizer Guide FG 27. IRRIGATION In soil suspected of having club root, care should be taken in not over-watering transplants after setting them out. A total of 10-14" of water may be needed for direct seeded fields and 10-12" for transplanted ones in western Oregon. Approximate summer irrigation needs for the Hermiston area have been found to be: 3.5 inches in May, 5.0 in June, 7.5 in July, and 7.0 in August. Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does dictate frequency of water application. Lighter soils need more frequent water applications, but less water applied per application. HARVESTING, HANDLING AND STORAGE In western Oregon fresh market cabbage may be harvested from mid July to the end of December. The main harvest period is between the first of August and mid November. Cabbage for processing is generally harvested from about mid July to mid November. Average yields of processed cabbage in the Pacific Northwest are approximately 30 tons/acre with good yields about 40 tons/acre. Average fresh market yield is reported at 235 cwt./acre with good yields about 300 cwt./a cre. Processed cabbage can be machine harvested, but is ususally hand harvested in the Pacific Northwest. All fresh market cabbage is hand harves ted. Heads should be harvested when firm and before they split or burst. In harvesting for fresh market, leave 4-6 wrapper leaves attached to the head. The wrapper leaves are usually removed when harvesting for kraut. STORAGE (Quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook #66): Store cabbage at 32 F. and a relative humidity of 98 to 100%. A large percentage of the late crop of cabbage is stored and sold during the winter and early spring, or until the new crop from the southern states appears on the market. If stored under proper conditions late cabbage should keep for 5 to 6 months. The longest keeping cultivars belong to the Danish class. Early-crop cabbage, especially southern grown, has a storage life of 3 to 6 weeks. Cabbage is successfully held in common storage in the northern states, where a fairly uniform inside air temperature of 32 to 35 F. can be maintai ned. Many such storage houses are to be found, principally in New York, Pennsylvania, Michigan and Wisconsin. Storage houses should be insulated sufficiently to prevent freezing of the cabbage; for although slight freezing does little harm, hard freezing may cause considerable loss. Heaters are sometimes needed to prevent freezing of cabbage in common storage during severe cold weather. Cabbage wilts quickly if held under too dry storage conditions; hence, the humidity should be high enough to keep the leaves fresh and turgid. Use of polyethylene liners or pallet covers to prevent desiccation can prove desirable under some storage conditions. Cabbage stored at 32 F. has less decay when the relative humidity is maintained at or near saturation (98 to 100 %) than at 90 to 95 %. Many growers now use pallet boxes as both field and storage containers so that there is no handling of the cabbage from the time of harvest until preparation for shipment or processing. Some of the larger storages stack these pallet boxes five high. An increasing quantity of cabbage is now held in mechanically refrige rated storages. The storage life of late cabbage can be extended for several months if it is held in an atmosphere with 2.5 to 5 % oxygen and 2.5 to 5 % carbon dioxide. Cabbage should be handled carefully from field to storage, and only solid heads with no yellowing , decay, or mechanical injuries should be stored. Before the heads are stored, all loose leaves should be trimmed away; only three to six tight wrapper leaves should be left on the head. left on the head. Loose leaves interfere with ventilation between heads, and ventilation is essential for successful storage. Upon removal from storage, the heads should be trimmed again to remove loose and damaged leaves. Cabbage should not be stored with fruits emitting ethylene. Concentrations of 10 to 100 ppm of ethylene cause leaf abscission and loss of green color within 5 weeks. The most common decays found in stored cabbage are watery soft rot, bacterial soft rot, gray mold rot, alternaria leaf spot, and black leaf speck. PACKAGING Containers and weights commonly used for cabbage are crates (l 3/4 bushels) 53-60 pounds, 50 pound mesh sacks, or 53 pound cartons. PEST CONTROL FOR CABBAGE THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL. USE PESTICIDES SAFELY! Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. Bathe or shower after each use. Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have). Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from pesticide use. WEED CONTROL Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper cultiva tion, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control. THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS. WEED MANAGEMENT GENERAL STRATEGY Weed suppression in crucifers begins by rotating crops that involve different weed control practices or herbicides to disrupt weed life cycles. Row spacings and plant densities vary to achieve head size depending on the market and to suppress weeds. Early season weed control comprises application of an herbicide and/or cultivation(s). ______________________________________________________________________________ STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable. The concept depends on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed flushes during establishment of the crop. Following establishment, other weed control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be used. 1. Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface. Soil temperatures and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic. 2. Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance. Otherwise, new weed seed will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions. 3. Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed weeds. Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Flaming Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the weeds, but not consume them with flame. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ paraquat 0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A Gramoxone Extra Restricted-use pesticide. Do not ingest or inhale spray mist. Wearing protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised. Apply during or after planting, but before crop emergence. Add a nonionic surfactant or oil concentrate according to label specifications, taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form insoluble precipitates. Exposed crop plants will be killed. Do not apply preplant or preemergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media. (Acts as contact; absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt living cells.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ glyphosate Consult Labels Roundup Roundup RT (E. Washington and Idaho only) or Honcho + nonionic surfactant Apply to actively growing weeds either preplant in conjunction with site preparatioon or preemergence crops listed on the label. Consult label for specific rates, times of application, and perennial species control- led. Generally 1 to 1.5 lbs ai/A should be used for annual weeds, while perennial weeds require higher rates. Addition of a surfactant or ammonium sulfate improves activity when weeds are stressed. Do not apply more than 8 lbs. ai/A per year, nor plant non-labeled crops within 12 months following application. (Inhibits production of 3 amino acids and protein synthesis.) ______________________________________________________________________________ PREPLANT INCORPORATED Direct Seeded or Transplanted Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre or Application Comments ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ trifluralin 0.5 to 1.0 lb ai/A Treflan Apply before planting and incorporate 2 to 3 inches deep by cross-disk ing or using a PTO rotary tiller. Do not exceed 0.75 lb ai/A for direct seeded crops. Spray only once and avoid overlapping. Consult label for planting sensitive crops within 12 months. (Inhibits mitosis, primarily in shoots). ______________________________________________________________________________ PREEMERGENCE Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ napropamide 1 to 2 lb ai/A Devrinol Selectivity is based on Devrinol placement above the seed or transplant depth. For direct seeded crops, apply to soil surface immediately after planting and sprinker irrigate within 24 hours to wet soil 1 to 2 inches deep, or mechanically incorporate not exceeding the seed depth. Transplants can be treated preplant with shallow incorporation or postplant with sprinkler irrigation. Rotational crops listed on the label require deep moldboard plowing while other crops should not be planted sooner than 12 months following application. (Inhibits root growth). ------------------------------------------------------------------------ DCPA 4.5 to 9 lb ai/A Dacthal Performs erratically west of Cascades. Elsewhere, apply immediately after seeding or transplanting. Results can be improved if rainfall or overhead irrigation occurs immediately after application. Consult label for planting sensitive crops within 8 months. (Inhibits mitosis). ------------------------------------------------------------------------ oxyfluorfen 0.25 to 0.5 lb. ai/A Goal (transplanted broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower) Apply soon after final soil preparation and before transplanting through the treated layer with minimal soil disturbance. Select the lower rate for coarse textured soils with less than 1% organic matter. Temporary injury may occur when leaves contact treated soil. Severe injury may result when transplants are under stress due to temperature, disease, fertilizer salts, nematodes, insects, pesticides, and storage conditions or when small transplants grown in 1 inch cells are planted. Following transplanting, apply at least 0.25 inches overhead moisture. Plant only crops listed on the label within 10 months following treatment. Grazing of crop residue or treated fields is prohibited. (Acts as a selective contact that disrupts cell membranes.) ______________________________________________________________________________ POSTEMERGENCE Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ sethoxydim 0.19 to 0.28 lb ai/A Poast Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on the label. Add 2 pints/A nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to improve leaf absorption. Erratic control often occurs when grasses are stunted or stressed from drought, high temperatures, or low fertility. Resis tant grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas quackgrass can be suppressed. Do not apply within 30 days of harvest, nor exceed 3 pints/A per season. (Inhibits fatty acid production, cell membranes, and new growth. ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ INSECT CONTROL Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS. Insect and Description Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Aphids, including Monitor - 0.5 to 1 lb Cabbage aphid Brevicoryne brassicae malathion - 1.25 lb Turnip aphid Hyadaphis erysimi Phosdrin - 0.25 lb Green peach aphid Myzus persicae Dibrom - 1 to 2 lb Both species gray, mealy plant diazinon - 0.5 lb lice forming colonies on foliage, on or in heads or in buds. Weak- Metasystox-R - 0.375 to 0.75 lb en plants and constitute an adulterant in processed foods. endosulfan - 0.75 to 1.0 lb For effective aphid control, Di-Syston - 1 lb application of insecticides should start with first appearance Apply granules as a band on of aphids and be continued at reg- each side of seed furrow or ular intervals as aphids appear. transplanted row at planting, This is particularly true of or as a side dressing after broccoli and cauliflower to prevent plants become established. aphids from concealing themselves in heads. Liquid injections can be made in similar manner. Do not apply NOTE: directly to seed. See label for To be effective Di-Syston application complete details. should be followed by sprinkler or furrow irrigation. Di-Syston is dimethoate - 0.25 to 0.5 lb relatively insoluble and requires high soil moisture to give best results. Lorsban 50W - 1 lb Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt Diatect - 1 to 3 lb formulation --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cabbage maggot Transplantings Delia brassicae diazinon - 0.125 to 0.25 lb/50 gal of water White maggots that feed on roots and underground stems Preplant and transplant and weaken, lodge, and kill Lorsban 4E - 0.05 to 0.086 lb plants. Adult is a small gray fly ai/1000 row ft. that lays white, oblong eggs at plant bases. Preplant Lorsban 15G - 0.04 to 0.09 lb diazinon - 2 to 3 lb --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cutworms and Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb Armyworms endosulfan - 1 lb Several species. Do not feed treated plants. Treat when worms are small. carbaryl - 1 to 2 lb permethrin - 0.05 to 0.2 lb Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2 qt. Add an appropriate spreader-sticker to enhance control. Most effective on small larvae. Lorsban 50W - 1 lb Larvin - 0.4 to 0.8 lb --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Diamondback moth endosulfan - 1 lb Plutella maculipennis diazinon - 0.5 lb Small, pale yellowish-green larvae with erect black hairs. Eats holes in foliage. Adults are small gray or grown moths with white marks on forewings that form a diamond when wings are folded. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Flea beetles endosulfan - 0.75 to 1.0 lb including cabbage flea beetle carbaryl - 1 lb Phyllotreta cruciferae methoxychlor - 2.25 lb Small, shiny, steel-blue, jump- ing beetle. Eats round holes in Di-Syston - 1 lb leaves of wild and cultivated crucifers. Particularly serious permethrin 0.05 to 0.2 lb on seedlings. Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb NOTE: Carbaryl and endosulfan combined together have given most Lorsban 50W - 1 lb effective control. Larvin - 0.4 to 0.8 lb Pyrellin - 1.5 to 2 pt --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Garden symphylan Dyfonate - 2 lb Scutigerella immaculata diazinon - 10 lb Small, white, centipede-like an- imals in the soil. Telone II - preplant Telone C-17 - preplant Mocap - 2 to 3 lb. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Grasshoppers Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb Various species Nosema locustae - Use as May reach damaging levels on field manufacturer directs margins during years of grasshopper abundance. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Imported cabbage worm Phosdrin - 0.5 lb (ICW only) Pieris rapae OR, (depending on pre-harvest interval - see label) Phosdrin - 1 lb (ICW only) Caterpillars are soft, velvety green with faint yellow stripes. Larvin - 0.6 to 1 lb Adult is a white butterfly with black spots. diatect - 1 to 3 lb Monitor - 0.5 to 1 lb Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2 qt. Add appropri- ate spreader-sticker. Dibrom - 1 to 2 lb methoxychlor - 2 to 2.25 lb Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb permethrin - 0.05 to 0.1 lb Lorsban 50W - 1 lb Larvan - 0.4 to 0.8 lb Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Loopers, including Monitor - 0.5 to 1.0 lb Cabbage looper Trichoplusia ni WARNING: If methamidophos (Monitor) is allowed to drift Alfalfa looper onto adjacent legume or vege- Autographa californica table seed crops, it is highly hazardous to pollinating bees. Larvae of both species pale Alternate materials should be green with white lines on back used under such conditions. and sides. Move in looping manner. Moth gray-brown with Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb characteristic silvery spot on forewings. Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2 qt. Add a spreader-sticker to NOTE: enhance persistence on foliage. The cabbage looper and alfalfa looper Dibrom - 2 lb are not serious pests every year but are more difficult to control than methoxychlor - 2.25 lb other cabbage "worms". Start insecti- cide applications when the worms are endosulfan - 0.75 to 1.0 lb still small. Inspect the plants a day or so after each treatment for success permethrin - 0.05 to 0.2 lb of control. Examine plants often in late summer and fall for new infestations. Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb Be sure insecticides reach both sides of leaves. Choice of insecticide is de- Phosdrin - 0.5 lb pendent in part on nearness to harvest. Phosdrin gives better control of loppers carbaryl - 2 lb when temperatures are below 70 F. pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt NOTE: Larvin - 0.6 to 1 lb Suitable registered wetting agents should be added to most of the spray solutions of diatect - 1 to 3 lb the mentioned insecticides. The wetting agent will aid in spreading and sticking of the sprays to the waxy leaves and plant surfaces. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Slugs metaldehyde baits --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thrips methyl parathion - 0.3 to Frankliniella sp. 1.5 lb Adults about 1/25 inch in length. Yellow- ish to black in color. An occasional problem in fresh market cabbage. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Wireworms diazinon - 3 to 4 lb active Ctenicera and ingredient per acre. Broadcast Limonius spp. granules or emulsifiable formu- lation evenly on the soil Brown, jointed larvae of click surface and incorporate into beetles. the top 4-8 inches of soil. Other controls and fumigants may be available. Telone II or C-17 - preplant ___________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________ DISEASE CONTROL Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable seed sources reduces risk from seed born diseases. THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS. CABBAGE -- BLACK BLIGHT (RING SPOT) IN SEED PRODUCTION Cause: Mycosphaerella brassicicola, a fungus that attacks cabbage, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and broccoli. Symptoms: Individual spots most often are black with dense fruiting bodies in tight concentric rings. Under severe attack, the spots coalesce and the entire plant may be affected and blackened. When seed stalks are attacked, the fungus causes distortion similar to 2,4-D symptoms. The infectious spore stage matures slowly over a period of months. Control: 1. Locate plant beds 1 mile or more from diseased fields. 2. Burn straw stacks and plow under diseased refuse of cabbage, turnip, and rutabaga seed fields immediately after harvest and before transplanting the new crop. 3. Hot water seed treatment at 122oF for 30 minutes eliminates seedborne inoculum. 4. Bravo and Benlate provide control of this disease when applied for downy mildew and white blight, respectively. 5. Bravo may be applied to cabbage, broccoli, and brussels sprouts. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- BACTERIAL SOFT ROT Cause: Erwinia sp., a bacteria. Entrance to the plant tissue is usually through wounds caused by insects, disease organisms, or mechanical means. Under warm, humid conditions, uninjured tissue may become infected. The bacteria may be spread by insects, tools, rain, clothing, or affected plant tissue. Symptoms: Small, water-soaked areas which rapidly increase in size. The tissue becomes soft and mushy, and within a few days the affected plant part may collapse. An offensive odor is usually present. Control: 1. Set out plants in rows to allow for good air drainage. 2. Use care in cultivating to keep injuries to leaves and other parts ofplants to a minimum. 3. Overhead irrigation may encourage infection. Well water contains less bacteria than surface water. 4. Clean and spray storage walls and floors with copper sulfate solution (1 lb/5 gal water). Bactericides such as Roccal, Chlorox, and Lysol are also effective. 5. In storage, use a buffering material such as straw, paper, etc., to prevent injury to the heads. 6. Keep storage house dry and the temperature below 39 F. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- BLACK LEG Cause: Phoma lingam (Leptosphaeria maculans), a fungus which is carried on the seed and overwinters on plant debris and on alternate host plants. Symptoms: Pale spots on leaves, stems, and silques (pods) which later become ashy gray with scattered black pycnidia on the surface. Stem lesions near the soil line extend below the soil surface causing a black rot of the lower stem and roots. As plants mature they fall sideways from lack of root anchorage. Many plants wilt and die. Seed crop symptoms: This disease generally does not cause reduction in seed yields. Occasionally cankers are observed on stem bases and spots appear on overwintered leaves. Symptoms on seed pods are rare and inconspicuous. Low levels of seed infection coupled with weather favorable for disease spread in eastern seedbeds has caused extremely severe losses. Control--Seed Production Fields 1. Plant only stock seed assayed and found to be free of P. lingam. Treat infected stock seed with benomyl as Benlate at 8 oz 50 WP plus thiram as Arasan at 8 oz 50 WP (Washington and Oregon only) or hot water treated at 50 C for 25 to 30 minutes. Treated stock seed should be reassayed and found free from infection before planting. 2. Seedbeds should not have crucifer crops on or near them for at least 5 years. 3. Inspect seedbeds for obvious foliar infections. 4. When lifted, transplants should not be dipped into water before transplan ting. 5. Inspect seed fields for presence of the disease. 6. Seed samples (10,000 seeds) from each lot should be assayed for the presence of P. lingam. 7. Treat infected lots with benomyl as Benlate and thiram as Arasan (see above) or hot water. Seed assays are available from the Washington State University Seed Technology Laboratory, Pullman, Washington. Control--Crop Fields: Use disease-free seed. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- BLACK ROT Cause: Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris, a bacterium which overwinters in plant refuse and is carried internally and externally on seed. Symptoms: When spread by water, bacteria enter water pores at the margins of leaves or occasionally through insect or other mechanical injuries. The tissue in these areas becomes yellow and the chlorosis progresses toward the center of the leaf. This creates a V-shaped area with the base of the V at the midrib of the leaf. The veins in these areas become dark brown or black, and when the leaf is held up to a strong light source they show up as a black net. From the leaf, the infection proceeds up and down the main stem causing blackening of the vascular tissue. The infection goes systemic at this point, and symptoms the same as those found from direct infection may appear anywhere on the plant. Unilateral stunting of some leaves occurs. When seed is infected, the first symptoms appear on the cotyledons. The cotyledons rapidly wilt and drop off usually however, the infection has reached the stem and proceeds upward. Development of the disease may stop in unfavorable weather only to begin when conditions are favorable. Optimum temperatures for development are 80o to 86o F. Water in the form of dew, rain, or sprinkler irrigation is necessary for spread. Control: 1. Use clean seed. Seed from west coast sources is almost always free from this disease. 2. Use a 2-year rotation out of crucifers in production fields. 3. Use a 3-year rotation on the transplant bed. This is most important since most infection spread occurs in the seed bed. 4. Contaminated seed can be cleaned by hot water seed treatment of 122 F for 30 minutes. 5. The varieties `Defender' and `Guardian' are resistant. Other research from N.Y. classifies varieties in regards to their susceptibility as follows: Susceptibility to Black Rot Low Medium High Bravo Green Winter Superdane Hinova Superelite Superkraut Zerlina Atria Titanic 90 Renova Protector Roundup Stonar Krautking King Cole Little Rock Krautpacker Rodolfo Bartolo Polinius Lennox --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- CLUB ROOT Cause: Plasmodiophora brassicae, a fungus. This fungus can survive in the soil for years following an infected crop. Symptoms: Young plants wilt in hot weather, but recover partially at night. Older plants are stunted, and leaves may drop off. Roots develop clubs or swellings up to 5 or 6 inches in diameter. The largest clubs are usually just below the soil level, on the larger roots. Control: A. The cabbage variety `Badger Shipper' offers resistance to some races of the disease. B. Disease-free plants and disease-free soil: Since young plants can be infected and not show any symptoms, e.g., swelling of the roots, it is important that only plants grown in soil known to be free of the casual fungus be planted. If possible, plant only in club-root-free soils, but when in doubt, it is better to treat. C. Disease-free plants and diseased soil: If it is not possible to use disease-free soil, the following practices and chemicals will aid in keeping club root under control. 1. Lime field heavily, which discourages spore germination. Even if the infected soil is alkaline, e.g., has a pH 8, at least 1500 lb of hydrated lime must be added to the soil each time cabbage is planted. Use long rotations to prevent a buildup of lime in the soil. The hydrated lime should be added to the soil at least 6 weeks before planting. 2. Preplanting soil treatment with PCNB (Terraclor). PCNB does not give complete control of club root, but it will reduce the number of clubs and secondary rotting of roots so that a nearly normal sized crop may be produced. Broadcast: For transplant or direct-seeded fields, use 40 lb actual PCNB/A, depending on soil type. Disc or rototill the PCNB into the top 4 inches of soil. The treatment is effective for two seasons if the soil is only rototilled and cultivated, not plowed. Bands: For transplant or direct-seeded fields. Although a savings in chemical may be made the first year by applying it in bands previous to planting and cultivating it into the top 4 inches of soil, the second year benefit from this application of chemical is lost. 3. Use starter solutions (use at rate of 1 cup/plant at time of planting). a. PCNB (Terraclor) .5 to .75 percent suspension (4 lb of 75 percent WP/100 gal water). This treatment is recommended only for commercial growers. 4. Delay planting to avoid wet soil. Residues: Terraclor--cabbage: Tolerance 0.1 ppm (Interim). Row application prior to transplanting (maximum 40 lb actual PCNB/A). Broadcast prior to planting (maximum of 40 lb actual PCNB/A). Transplant solution--.75 pt/plant of transplant solution containing 4.5 lb actual PCNB/100 gal. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- DAMPING-OFF AND WIRESTEM Cause: Several fungi including Rhizoctonia and Pythium sp. These fungi are common soil inhabitants. They are widespread and can be very destructive under cool, moist conditions. Symptoms: Damping off results in killing of seedlings before or soon after they emerge from the soil. Beneath the soil a general rot is observed. Seedlings which emerge from the soil develop a lesion near where the tender stem is in contact with the soil surface, and the seedling collapses. In some cases, the seedling may continue to grow even though the lesion has girdled the stem. The lesion is quite sunken, and the stem resembles a wire, hence the name wirestem. The girdled seedling eventually dies. Control: 1. Delay planting as long as possible to avoid cold, moist soils, which favor disease development. 2. Avoid excessive irrigation. Irrigate in the morning. 3. Grow transplanted seedlings in sterilized soil. 4. Improve the texture of heavy soils. 5. See Cabbage -- Treatment. 6. When Pythium spp. is a problem, apply Ridomil 2E. Broadcast: Apply 4 pt Ridomil 2E/A at planting in 20 to 50 gal water. Banded: Apply 0.5 to 1 pt Ridomil 2E/13,000 linear ft of row in a 7-inch band. Broadcast and incorporated: Apply 1 to 2 pt/A as a broadcast soil application in 20 to 50 gal of water and incorporate in the top 2 inches of soil. If plantings are made on bed, broadcast and incorporate before forming beds. To minimize the development of fungi resistant to Ridomil, do not make foliar applications if Ridomil was used at planting (see Cabbage and Cauliflower -- Downey Mildew). --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- DOWNY MILDEW Cause: Peronospora parasitica, a fungus. Nearly all cultivated and weed plants of Cruciferae are affected by downy mildew. The several strains of the fungus, however, are specific to certain groupings of crops, e.g., the radish strain causes little damage to cabbage. The fungus overwinters in roots or old diseased plant parts. Spores of the fungus may be spread as contaminants on seeds. There is no proof that the fungus enters the seed. High humidity, fog, drizzling rains, and heavy dew are conducive to disease development and spread. Optimum conditions for development of the disease are night tempera tures of 46 to 61 F for four or more successive nights, and day temperature approximately 75 F or lower. Symptoms: Seedlings: White mildew principally on underside of leaf with yellowing on upper side. Later the leaf may become papery and die. Cabbage heads: Sunken black spots which may be minute or larger than 1 inch in diameter. Lower leaves: May become severely infected. Control: The following practices are effective: 1. Increase the ratio of phosphate to potash in the fertilizer to 2:1 or 3:1. 2. Use one of the following spray alternatives: a. Spray seeding beds with Bravo 6F 1.25 pt/A with water to cover or Ridomil/Bravo 8lW at 1.5 to 2.0 lb/A. b. Several formulations of fixed copper are available with labels for this disease. Fixed copper can cause phytotoxicity on some varieties at high rates. c. Spray maneb at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A. Do not apply more than 9.6 lb ai/A/season. Do not apply within 7 days of harvest. d. Spray fosetyl-Al (Abette) at 1.6 to 4.0 lb ai/A. Do not apply in less than 15 gal water/A. Do not apply more than 7 times a season or within 3 days of harvest. 3. Apply first spray as soon as seedlings appear and repeat three times per week until plants are set out in field. Spraying for mildew requires complete coverage of the plant. In general, high gallonage ground application has been more effective than air application. Resistance is being incorporated into commercial varieties, but at present there are no resistant commercial varieties available. Residues: Bravo--1.125 lb ai/A in water to cover. Tolerance 5 ppm. No time limitation. Ridomil/Bravo 8lW - do not apply within 7 days of harvest. Warning: Resistance to Ridomil has been confirmed in the Northwest. To minimize further development of resistance, use as follows. If Ridomil is used at planting (see Cabbage and Cauliflower -- Damping-Off), do not make foliar applications. Do not use it as a curative spray once disease has developed. Use only as a preventive spray and only in combination with another registered fungicide. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- DROP, WATERY SOFT ROT, OR WHITE ROT Cause: Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, a fungus. This disease survives in crop refuse and in the soil as sclerotia (hardened fungus bodies), averaging about the size of a pea. This fungus attacks a wide range of crops and weeds. It produces microscopic spores that grow first on dead organic matter (often spent flower petals) and then attack the plants. Symptoms: The disease occurs for the most part above the ground level a cottony, white mold. As the cabbage leaves decay, small, dark bodies appear in the mold. Finally the white mass is replaced by numerous hardened sclerotia which gradually change in color from white to black. On seed crops, stem attacks cause severe losses. The diseased tissues eventua lly bleach white, giving the disease its name "white blight." Sclerotia that are black on the surface and white inside, associated with this bleached tissue, are diagnostic. Control: (1) Rotate using nonsusceptible crops such as grass or grains. (2) Permit maximum aeration between rows. (3) On seed crops (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collards, kale, kohlrabi, mustard, rutabagas, and turnips) the most effective control for this disease is by aerial spray application of benomyl as Benlate (Pacific Northwest only). Apply as a thorough-coverage spray using 2 lb in 5 to 10 gal water/A. Add a spreader for coverage. Make first application at first petal fall make two additional applications at 14-day intervals if conditions favor development of the disease. For seed production only, Chipco 26019 is registered in Oregon and Washington. Apply 2 to 4 lb/A in 20 to 100 gal of water. Use at least 10 gal/A for air applications. Apply at full bloom. Do not feed treated crop or graze treated area. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- LEAF SPOT Cause: Alternaria brassicae and A. brassiciola, two fungi. These fungi survive from year to year on seed and cabbage leaves and roots. Symptoms: Chlorotic yellow spots develop enlarging to circular areas coated with black spores. Infection ranges in size from areas barely visible to those more than 2 to 3 inches in diameter. On infected cabbage seed pods, violet to tan-colored spots develop, becoming worse in wet weather. Control: (1) Rotate crops and use clean seed. (2) Seed not known to be clean may be treated in hot water at a temperature of 122 F for 25 to 30 minutes. Make a seed germination test following hot treatment. (3) Spray material listed under downy mildew will help control this disease. (4) For seed production only, Rovral 50 WP is registered in Washington and Oregon. Apply 2 to 4 lb/A in 20 to 100 gal of water. Use at least 10 gal/A for air applica tions. An appropriate spreader-sticker is recommended. Apply at full bloom, pod set, and prior to harvest if disease pressure is severe. Do not use treated crop debris or screenings for food or feed. Do not graze treated area. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- NEMATODE (Sugarbeet Cyst) Cause: Heterodera schachtii Symptoms: First field symptom indicating nematodes is the appearance of small, conspicuous areas where plants are stunted. Later in the season, areas of nematode infestation often are marked by absence of plants and presence of weed patches. In severely infested fields, areas of decline usually can be identified by excessive leaf wilting during hot weather. Affected areas increase in size with continuous cropping of host crops. Infected plants are much smaller than normal ones. Frequently they have a dense system of secondary roots, called a hairy-root condition. Examination with a hand lens usually will show numerous small, white, beadlike structures on roots of infected plants. These structures are lemon-shaped and later become cysts containing eggs that develop into future generations of nema todes. Dwarfed plants that have a tendency to wilt during warm weather should be pulled and examined for small, white, beadlike females. Soil intended for cabbage production can be examined for this pest by a simple field test: Place a teaspoonful of soil i a glass of water, stir briefly, and allow debris to float to the surface. It is then possible to see and recognize any brownish cysts that adhere to the sides of the glass. Discovery of nematodes by this test will not predict severity of infestation but will show that the field has a nematode history. Control: 1. Crop rotation is an effective method for reducing nematode population since this pest has a small host range. In addition to sugarbeets other hosts are mangel-wurzel, table beet, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, rape, turnip, rutabaga, and radish. Weed hosts are dock, knotweed, lambsquarters, mustard, nightshade, purslane, saltbush and red root. Any of these plants that survive from year to year may act as reservoirs in maintain ing the pests and may counteract much of the value of crop rotation. These crops may be used in a short-term rotation; beans, sweet clover, corn, grains, peas, potatoes, and tomatoes. Alfalfa is suitable for a long rotation period. Length of rotation period should vary with severity of nematode infection. Slight infestations may require only a 2 year program whereas severe infestations require a 5 to 6 year interval. 2. Do not return tare to fields. 3. Soil fumigation with Telone II. For rates of application see Soil Fumigation Guide Chart in the Pesticide Use for Disease Control Section. Sampling: Cyst nematodes are sedentary endoparasites (see Nematodes--Life History). Infective second-stage juveniles, adult males (rarely), and cysts (the dead body of the female which contains eggs) can be obtained from the soil samples. However, cyst extraction requires a special extraction proce dure, and if a cyst count is desired it should be noted on the form that accompanies the sample. During the growing season it is helpful to send roots as well as soil to assist the diagnosis. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ CABBAGE -- OEDEMA (Edema) Cause: Physiological Symptoms: This nonparasitic disease may occur on any plant part but is usually found on the lower surface of leaves. The first symptom is a watery blister or gall that can be few or numerous. The more succulent tissue appears to be more susceptible. Blisters or galls will turn a dark brown, yellow, or rust color and give the appearance of a rust or bacterial infection. The disorder is more prominent when ambient temperatures are lower than soil temperatures, soil moisture is high, and relative humidity is high. Low transpiration rates with an increase in water absorption increase cell pressure, erupting epidermal cells and allowing the inner cells to enlarge and protrude. This protrusion of the inner cells causes the cells to die and discolor (yellow, brown, or rust), giving the impression that a parasitic organism is involved. Any mechanical injury to epidermal cells causes a similar effect. The most common causes of oedema in the Pacific Northwest are insect feeding injury (particularly aphids), injury from windblown soil particles, and damage from chemical applications. Control: 1. Control insects, particularly aphids. 2. When cabbages are small, control windblown soil particles by sprinkler irrigation during periods of high wind. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- PHYTOPHTHORA ROOT ROT Cause: Phytophthora megasperma is a fungus that serves as resistant spores in the soil and infects its hosts with swimming zoospores under wet conditions. Symptoms: Above ground portions of the plant wilt. When the root systems are examined, lateral roots are absent or entirely decayed. The top roots are entirely decayed or show large, dark lesions along their entire length. Symptomatic plants are found in wet areas of the field. Control: 1. Plant only on well-drained soil that has a minimum of low areas where water can accumulate. 2. Avoid excessive irrigation. 3. Treat seedbed with Ridomil 2E as a surface broadcast of 4 pt/A in 20 to 50 gal/A, or as a 7-inch band application of 2 pt/13,000 linear ft row in 20 to 50 gal/A, or as broadcast incorporated to 2 inches at 4 to 8 pt/A in 20 to 50 gal/A. If plantings are made on beds, broadcast and incorporate prior to bedding. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- SEED TREATMENT Aids in controlling black rot, Alternaria leaf spot, and damping off. Apply captan or thiram according to label directions. Hot water seed treatment -- 122 degrees F for 30 minutes. Where Pythium is a problem, Anchor flowable at 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CABBAGE -- TIP BURN Cause: Physiological disorder. All cabbage varieties grown in Oregon are susceptible to some degree to tip burn. Some difference between varieties is recognized. This disorder is aggravated by high fertility and high tempera tures. Some research indicates that it may be influenced by an imbalance of nitrogen, potassium, and calcium. Water stress followed by a period of excessive growth and low humidity is conducive to development of tip burn. These conditions influence calcium uptake and distribution in the cabbage head. Amount and frequency of irrigation appear to influence incidence of tip burn. Symptoms: A marginal necrosis of internal leaves. The symptoms can extend from a few, small, brown spots on the edges of the interior leaves to large areas of the leaf margin turning brown and eventually decaying. External symptoms are usually absent. Control: Research in Wisconsin has attributed the disorder to a deficiency of calcium in the inner leaves research in New York has implicated imbalances of nitrogen and potash. Other research indicates that high temperatures following periods of excessive growth can cause tip burn. No effective controls are known. Holding nitrogen levels to the lowest level possible commensurate with adequate yields is helpful. Nitrogen rates should not exceed 100 lb/A. The form of nitrogen may be important with ammonium forms less desirable than nitrate forms. Do not apply excessive rates of potash or other chemicals that would compete with calcium uptake. Soil samples should show adequate base saturation and adequate levels of calcium. Use adequate irrigation to avoid water stress conditions which would restrict calcium movement to inner leaves. Harvest when the cabbage is at the optimum maturity to avoid allowing the cabbage to become excessively firm. Research from Cornell University describes variety susceptibility to tip burn. Slightly susceptible: `Superdane', `Flacon', `Hinova', `Atria', `Rudolfo', `Superkraut', `Krautpaker'. More susceptible: `Titanic 90', `Roundup', `Bravo', `Krautking', `Little Rock'. Quite susceptible: `King Cole', `Quisto', `Superette'. Very susceptible: `Green Boy', `Rio Verde', `Condor', `Izalco'. ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ --------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------- This information was adapted by the Oregon State University Extension Service from Oregon and Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable production guidelines from public institutions in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial vegetable producers. Address comments or questions to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S. Mansour, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 9733l. --------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------- From dragon@csulb.edu Sun Mar 12 22:09:28 EST 1995 Article: 57927 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!csulb.edu!beach.csulb.edu!dragon From: Brian Lo Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: FAQ: Turnips Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:43:23 -0800 Organization: Cal State Long Beach Lines: 390 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: beach.csulb.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO X-Status: TURNIPS Brassica rapa (Rapifera Group) VARIETIES (approximately 60 days for roots, 30 days for greens) Purple Top White Globe; hybrids for trial: Royal Globe II Hybrid, Royal Crown; all white hybrids for trial: Tokyo Cross, White Lady. Club root resistant, for trial: York. Greens: Shogoin, Seven Top, Topper, All Top (see seperate file on turnip greens). SEED COMPANIES Abbott & Cobb Inc. POB F307, Feasterville, PA 19047 Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915 Elsoms Seeds Ltd. Spalding, Lincolnshire, England PE11 1QG Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352 Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624 Johnny's Selected Seeds, Foss Hill Rd. Albion, ME 04910 La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620 Nickerson-Zwaan Seed Co. POB 1787, Gilroy, CA 95021 Northrup King Co. Vegetable Seed Group, POB 1827, Gilroy, CA 95021 Royal Sluis Inc. 1293 Harkins Rd. Salinas, CA 93901 Sakata Seed America Inc. Morgan Hill, CA Sluis & Groot of America Inc. 124 Griffin Street, Salinas, CA 93901 Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240 W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc. 1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202 SOIL Use deep loam or sandy loam soil types that have good drainage. It is desirable to have a good amount of organic matter in the soil as well. SEED AND SEED TREATMENT Turnip seed numbers approximately 192,000 per pound. Use hot-water and fungicide treated seed to protect against several serious seed borne diseases. Hot water seed treatments are very specific (122 F exactly, for 25 to 30 minutes; the wet seed then quickly cooled and dried). The seed treatments are best done by the seed company, and can usually be provided upon request. PLANTING AND SPACINGS For summer harvest plant as early in the spring as possible. For later harvests plant up to the 7th of June. Seed 1 to 2 lbs seed/acre at a depth of 1/2 to l in. Space rows 1-3 ft. apart and plants within the row 2-6 inches apart. Turnip seed is easy to precision plant and germinates readily. No pelleting is necessary with precision planters. When these planters are used, adjust the seeding rate considering plant stand desired, seed count per pound and germination percentage. FERTILIZER A soil test is the most accurate guide to fertilizer requirements. The following recommendations are general guidelines. Manure - If manure is available, apply the year before and not in the year of seeding. At time of seeding, band 2 in. to the side of the seed, at a depth of 2 inches below the seed, the following: Nitrogen: 50-75 (N) lb./acre Phosphate: 100-150 (P2 O5) lb./acre Potash: 80-150 (K2 O) lb./acre Boron: Broadcast and disc in 2-4 lb./acre of boron prior to planting. If additional boron is required, use Solubor or Borospray at l/2 to l lb./acre when turnips are l in. in diameter. IRRIGATION Water uniformly for best shape and quality. Turnips may require from 8- 12 inches of water depending on planting date, seasonal variation and variety. Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does dictate frequency of water application. Lighter soils need more frequent water applications, but less water applied per application. HARVESTING, HANDLING, AND STORAGE Turnip yields are approximately 300 cwt./acre. Handle roots with care during harvest to reduce injury and rots during storage. Store only healthy roots as indicated below. STORAGE (quoted form USDA Ag. Handbook # 66): Store turnips at 32 F and 95% relative humidity. Topped turnips require storage conditions similar to those for topped carrots. Turnips in good condition can be expected to keep 4 to 5 months at 32 F and high relative humidity. At higher temperatures (40 F and above) decay will develop much more rapidly than at 32 f. Injured or bruised turnips should not be stored. Turnips should be stored in slatted crates or bins, and good air circulation around containers should be provided. Packaging turnips in perforated plastic bags helps keep the humidity high around the roots during marketing and reduces shriveling. Dipping turnips in hot melted paraffin was gives a glossy appearance and is of some value in reducing moisture loss during handling. However, waxing is primarily to aid in marketing and is not recommended before long-term storage. PACKAGING Topped turnips are commonly packaged in 25 lb. film bags; 50 lb. film and mesh bags; or 24 pound cartons holding 24 film bags, 1 pound each. PEST CONTROL FOR TURNIPS THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION- ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL. USE PESTICIDES SAFELY! Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. Bathe or shower after each use. Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have). Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from pesticide use. WEED CONTROL Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper cultiva- tion, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control. THE WEED TREATMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST WEED CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES, AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS. WEED MANAGEMENT GENERAL STRATEGY Weed suppression in crucifers begins by rotating crops that involve different weed control practices or herbicides to disrupt weed life cycles. Row spacings and plant densities vary to achieve head size depending on the market and to suppress weeds. Early season weed control comprises application of an herbicide and/or cultivation(s). ______________________________________________________________________________ STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec- tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable. The concept depends on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed flushes during establishment of the crop. Following establishment, other weed control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be used. 1. Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface. Soil temperatures and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic. 2. Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance. Otherwise, new weed seed will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions. 3. Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed weeds. Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Flaming Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to quickly sear the weeds, but not consume them with flame. ______________________________________________________________________________ PREEMERGENCE DCPA 4.5 to 9 lb ai/A Dacthal Performs erratically west of Cascades. Elsewhere, apply immediately after seeding or transplanting. Results can be improved if rainfall or overhead irrigation occurs immediately after application. Consult label for planting sensitive crops within 8 months. (Inhibits mitosis). ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ INSECT CONTROL Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS ARE CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS. Insect and Description Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Aphids including malathion - 2 lb Cabbage aphid Brevicoryne brassicae diazinon - 0.5 lb Turnip aphid Hyadaphis pseudobrassicae Phosdrin - 0.25 lb Both species closely resemble Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb each other. Gray, mealy plant lice form colonies. dimethoate - 0.25 lb Dibrom - 1 to 1.5 lb Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Flea beetles, including diazinon - 0.5 lb Phyllotreta cruciferae methoxychlor - 2.25 lb Small, shiny, steel-blue jump- ing beetle. Frequently attacks carbaryl - 1 lb and destroys seedlings. Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cabbage maggot Lorsban 4E - 0.05 to 0.86 lb Delia brassicae ai/1000 row ft. White legless larvae feed on Lorsban 15G - 0.69 to 1.38 lb roots. ai/1000 row ft. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Diamondback moth diazinon - 0.5 lb Plutella maculipennis methoxychlor - 1 lb Gray or brown moth with white margins on forewing. When Bacillus thuringiensis - 1 to 2 qt folded, white margins form dia- Apply with appropriate spreader- mond. Larvae are pale yellow- sticker. ish-green in color with finely scattered erect black hairs. permethrin - 0.05 to 0.1 lb --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Wireworms Telone II or C-17 - preplant Brown, jointed larvae of click diazinon 14G - 3 to 4 lb beetles. Chew holes in edible roots. ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ DISEASE CONTROL Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable seed sources reduces risk from seed born diseases. THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS. TURNIP - BORON DEFICIENCY Cause: Deficiency of boron in the soil and subsequent deficiency in the turnip plant. All vegetables require boron for growth but vary considerably in the amount required. Symptoms: Leaves - May or may not show abnormalities. Leaves may turn reddish in color. If deficiency is severe, both roots and leaves may be stunted. The leaves may be twisted and curled and finally die. Roots - Glassiness or water core of the root flesh followed by internal gray, punky flecks or spots that later change to brown or black areas. Control: Since the amount needed to correct boron deficiency varies so widely in different areas, and since boron if used in excessive amounts can act as a soil sterilant, check with your county extension agent or processor field pe- rson for local recommendations. However, where boron deficiency has been a problem, particularly in alkaline soils, one or two foliar applications of soluble boron are recommended. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- TURNIP - BLACK ROOT ROT Cause: Aphanomyces raphani and Rhizoctonia solani, fungi. The organisms over- winter in the soil and on diseased plant residue in the soil. Symptoms: Aphanomyces raphani invades the fine rootlets of the young seed- lings and develops resting spores in large numbers within the roots. On the main taproot dark surface lesions develop which turn grayish with age. These enlarge into grayish-black discolored areas of irregular size and shape just beneath the root surface. The main root may be girdled and growth of the plant interrupted until new roots are formed above the girdle. Systemic infection occurs occasionally, resulting in darkened vascular tissue within a normal appearing root. Control: 1. Where possible, avoid planting any of the crucifers on the same land for 3 or more years. 2. Growers have obtained good control using fumigants containing a combination of chloropicrin and methyl bromide sealed with plastic tarp. Residues: Use 82.5 to 115.5 lb actual chloropicrin plus 167.5 to 234.5 lb actual methyl bromide/A with a plastic seal. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- TURNIP - CLUB ROOT Cause: Plasmodiophora brassicae; this organism survives indefinitely in infested soil. Symptoms: Injured diseased plants are chlorotic, later turning a yellowish color, and are slow in growth and development. They often partially wilt during warm days. Beneath the fleshy turnip root, enlarged clublike growths develop. These ultimately become infected with secondary bacteria, rot, and break down. Control: 1. The European rutabaga variety, `Marian' is tolerant to club root as is the turnip variety `York'. 2. High applications of lime have been used on infested soil. This material apparently retards the development of the causal fungus. See Cabbage--Club Root for lime rates. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- TURNIP - POWDERY MILDEW Cause: Erysiphe polygoni, a fungus. This organism is perpetuated from year to year on turnip and rutabaga refuse and other hosts including weeds. Symptoms: A powdery, whitish-gray coloring consisting of the fungus and fungus spores of the mildew develops on infected leaves. In the advanced stages, the leaves are distorted, twisted, and retarded in growth. They ultimately turn yellow and die. Control: Sulfur dust or wettable sulfur sprays (6 lb in 100 gal water) are the best fungicidal controls. Residues: Sulfur-no time limitations. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- TURNIP - SEED TREATMENT Aids in control of black rot, Alternaria leaf spot, and black leg. Thiram - Follow product directions. Captan - Follow product directions. When Pythium is a problem, use Anchor flowable at 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed or Ridomil at 4 to 8 pt/A either incorporated preplant or as a postplant/preemergence application. See label for further information. Note: Where black leg is a problem, soak seed in hot water, 122 F for 25 minutes. Dry. Just before planting, use treatments listed above. ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ --------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------- This information was prepared by the Oregon State University Extension Service from Oregon and Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable production guidelines from public institutions in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial vegetable producers. Address comments or questions to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S. Mansour, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 9733l. --------------------------------------------------- From dragon@csulb.edu Sun Mar 12 22:09:35 EST 1995 Article: 57928 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!csulb.edu!beach.csulb.edu!dragon From: Brian Lo Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: FAQ: Herbs Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:43:51 -0800 Organization: Cal State Long Beach Lines: 487 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: beach.csulb.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO X-Status: Herbs Herb production may be for culinary purposes (food flavoring), for scents and fragrances (potpourris), for medicinal uses or others (dyes, dried floral arrangements etc). Herb producers often grow for all these markets, and some herbs may be used for all these purposes. Some of the most popular culinary herbs grown commercially and by home gardeners and hobbyists are: Basil, cilantro (coriander), chervil, dill, oregano, mint, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon and thyme. Information on herbs may be obtained from library references, seed catalogues, special garden books and some public bulletins. Because of the highly special nature of herb production, public bulletins are minimal and the information contained in them is very general. For these reasons, this document will only give a limited amount of general information on culinary herbs or those that may be used for culinary and other uses. Medicinal herbs are so specialized and often controversial that mention of their use will be ancillary, and only if the herb is also used for culinary purposes. Herbs most commonly grown in the Pacific Northwest are mostly adapted to sunny or occasionally mostly sunny, warm locations. Those listed are general- ly adapted to a wide range of soil types. Herbs need minimal irrigation, particularly as they mature and their aromatic and flavor compounds are developing. Fertilizer requirements are basic, usually being limited to N, P, and K. In some cases lime is needed to maintain soil pH near neutral, but most are adapted to a wide range of soil pH. (5.5-7.5). Nitrogen is usually applied at 75-150 lbs./acre depending on the harvested product (leaves or seeds). Timing of nitrogen applications is dependent on whether the species is annual, biennial or perennial. Phosphorous is applied at 50-200 lbs./acre and potassium at 0-150 lbs./acre depending on the above-mentioned characteristics of the crop and soil test. Few pesticides are registered for use in herb production. In some cases special restrictions apply to the use of pesticides in products that will be concentrated (distilled or processed in certain ways. Harvest timing and equipment are also specific to the herbs being produced. Often, considerable hand labor is required in production and harvest operations, particularly when the marketable leafy portions of some must be separated from stems, or where only the floral parts are required. Small motorized clippers are often used as harvester aids. Sometimes, when seeds are the marketable product, combines, often specially adapted, are used. Where the distilled oil is the marketable product, there are those who provide custom distillation using portable or stationary stills. The harvested product often requires immediate special handling such as drying, separation of leaves or seed, and temporary packaging storage to best preserve its color, aroma, flavor, the integrity of its appearance and sanitary condition. The following is a tabular listing of some of the herbs that may be produced in the Pacific Northwest, a brief description, their taxonomic classification, common synonyms, general uses, and production considerations. Five characteristics or cultural practices considerations are coded and separated by backslash (/). The codes are represented as follows: Life cycle: annual (a)/ biennial (b)/ perennial (p). Established by: Seed (s)/ divisions (d)/ cuttings (c)/ or transplants (t). Planting time: Spring (sp)/ after frost danger (af)/ fall (fa). Plant size: as listed next. Preferred site: Full sun (fs)/ part shade (ps)/ also a potted plant (pot). Uses are represented by the column headings: Flavorings (FLA), tea (TEA), fragrances (FRA), ornamental (ORN) and folk medicine (MED): NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES (cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED Angelica Angelica spp. an herbacious aromatic herb. about 50 spp. Sometimes planted for bold ornamental effects. Angelica Angelica archangelica (b/s/fa/6-7'/ps, fs) x x x x Anise Pipinella spp. Herbacious perennials and sometimes annuals numbering about 75 species of which only anise is cul- tivated. Anise Pimpinella anisum (a/s/sp/1.5'/ms, fs) x x x Anise-hyssop/anise mint, Korean mint Agastache foeniculum (p/s/sp,fa/3-4'/fs) x x x x x Balm (see lemon balm) NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES (cycle/establishment/time/size/location)* FLA TEA FRA ORN MED Basil Ocimum spp. About 60, little-known species of which only basil is im- portant. More than a dozen types are grown for seasoning and their pleasing fragrance. Only the mored common ones are listed. Frost sensitive. Basil, bush O. bascilicum (a/s/sp-af/1'/fs) x x Basil, cinnamon O. basilicum (a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x Basil, Genovese/sweet Italian O. basilicum (a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x Basil, purple ruffles O. basilicum (a/s/sp-af/1.5'/fs) x x Basil, licorice O. basilicum (a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x Basil, sweet Ocimum basilicum (main basil used) (a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x Basil, lemon O. basilicum citrodorum (Sweet Dani - new, true breeding variety from Purdue University New Crops Center) (a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x x Basil, dark opal O. basilicum purpurescence (a/s/sp-af/1'/fs) x x x Basil, sacred O. basilicum sanctum (a/s/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x x Basil, spicy globe O. basilicum minimum (a/s/sp-af/6"/fs, pot) x x x Bee Balm (see Bergamot) Bergamot/beebalm Monarda didyma (p/d,s/sp/2'-4'/fs,ps) x x x Borage Borago officinalis (a/s,t/sp-af/2'/fs) x x x NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES (cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED Burnet salad Sanguisobia minor (p/s/sp/1'/fs) x x Calamintha (see Savory) Calendula, pot marigold Calendula officinalis both orange and yellow types available. (a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs) x x x Caraway Carum carvi (a,b/s/sp,fa/2'-3'/fs) x x Catnip Nepeta cataria (p/s,t/sp/2'-5'/fs) x x x x x Chamomile Matricaria recutita an important medicinal plant. Chamomile/German chamomile Matricaria recutita (a/s,d/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x Chamomile/Roman chamomile Chamaemelum nobile (p/s,d/sp,fa/1'/fs) x x x x Chervil Anthriscus cerefolium (a/s/sp/1'-2'/ps,fs) bolts easily x x x x Chives Allium schoenoprasum (p/s,d/sp/1'/fs,pot) x x Chives/Chinese garlic/garlic chives Allium tuberosum (p/s,d/sp,fa/1'/fs,pot) x x Citronella (see lemongrass) Cilantro Coriandrum sativum (the Spanish name for coriander, grown for the fresh leaves); bolts at high temperatures. Use bolting resistant varieties, or grow during cool weather. (a/s/sp,af/1'-2'/fs,ps,pot) x x x Coriander Coriandrum sativum (same as cilantro but grown for its seed) (a/s/sp/3'/fs) x x x Cress, curly, garden, pepper-grass Lepidium sativum (b/s/sp/6"/fs,pot) x NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES (cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED Cress, water Nasturtium officinale (p/s/sp/6"/fs) x Cress, winter/upland, Barbarea vulgaris (b,s/sp,6"/fs,pot) x Cumin Cuminum cyminum (a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs) like coriander x x Dill Anethum graveolens (a/s/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x Fennel, Florence Foeniculum vulgare dulce (perennial, but grown as an annual) Grown for its bulb. Zefa fino (Royal Sluis) best root type evaluated, and resistance to bolting (Indiana). Days from seeding to harvest range from 100 to 120. (p,a/s/sp/3'-4'/fs) x x x Fenugreek Trigonella foenum-graecum (a/s/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x x Geranium, scented Pelargonium spp. Warm areas. Several forms and hybrids include: Rose- scented P. capitatum, nutmeg P. fragrans, apple P. odoratissimum, lemon P. crispum, pine-scented P. denticulatum, mint P. tomentosum and others! (p/c/sp/1'-3'/fs,pot) x x x x Horehound, white Marrubium vulgare (p/s/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x Hyssop, blue Hyssopus officinalis (p/s,c,d/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x Lavender, true Lavandula vera, and more than 28 other species. Two main species, Lavandula latifolia (spike, sweet, lavender) and L. angustifolia (English/French lavender) and their hybrids (some sterile) are used in commerce. (p/c,s/sp/2'-3'/fs) x x x x x NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES (cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED Lemongrass/citronella Cymbopogon sp., primarily East Indian Cymbopogon flexusus, and West Indian Cymbopogon citratus Lemongrass (p/d/sp/3'/fs,pot) not winter-hardy x x x x Lemon Balm Melissa officinalis (p/s,c,d/sp/1 1/2'-2'/fs) x x x x x Lemon verbena Aloysia triphylla (p/c/sp/1'-2'/fs) x x x x x Licorice Glycyrrhiza glabra (p/c,d,/3'-5'/fs) x x Lovage Levisticum officinale (p/s,d/sp/3'-4'/fs,ps) x x Marjoram, sweet Origanum majorana (see also Oregano) (p/s,t/sp/1'-2'/fs) x x x x Mint Mentha sp. Japanese mint M. arvensis var. piperescens x x x x x Peppermint M.x M. piperita var. vulgaris x x x x x or M. x M. piperita var. officinalis x x x x x Bergamot mint M.x M. piperita var. citrata x x x x x Pennyroyal, European M. pulegium x x x or American Hedeoma pulegioides x x x Corsican mint M. requienii x x x x x Spearmint M. spicata x x x x x Apple mint M. suaveolens x x x x x Pineapple mint M. suaveolens var. variegata x x x x x (p/s,c,d/sp,fa/1'-2'/fs,pot) Mustard, condiment Brassica sp. black B. nigra x x brown B. juncea x x white B. alba x x yellow mustard B. hirta x x (a,b/s/sp/2'-5'/fs) x x Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus (p,a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs, pot) x x NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES (cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED Oregano is of primarily two unrelated genera, Origanum and Lippia. European oregano is also call wild marjoram, winter marjoram, oregano and organy, and is Origanum vulgare. Greek oregano, also called winter sweet marjoram, or pot marjoram is Origanum heracleoticum (formaly O. hirtum). Mexican oregano, also called Mexican sage, origan, oregamon, wild marjoram, Mexican marjoram or Mexican wild sage is Lippia graveolens. Oregano, European Origanum vulgare (a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs,pot) x x x Oregano, Greek Origanum heracleoticum (p/c/sp/1'-2'/fs,pot) x x x Oregano, Mexican Lippia graveolens (not in the Labiatae family) (a/s/sp/1'-2'/fs,pot) x x x Parsley, curly and Italian Petroselinum hortense (b/s,t/sp/12"-18"/fs) x x x Pennyroyal (see "mint" above) Poppy Papaver somniferum seed and opium poppy; P. orientale morphine-free medicinal poppy. (a/s/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x x Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis (p/c,d,s,t/sp/2'-4'/fs,pot) x x x x Saffron Crocus sativus (p/d/sp/12"-18"/fs,ps) x x Sage Salvia officinales, several types including dwarf, mammoth, purple, golden, and tricolor. Others are: Pineapple S. elegans, Mexican S. leucantha, scarlet S. splendens, and Clary S. sclarea (a biennial). (p/d,c,s,t/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x x NAME/SYNONYMS Latin name USES (cycle/establishment/time/size/location) FLA TEA FRA ORN MED Savory Satureja sp. About 180 species. Aromatic herbs and shrubs, border or pot-herb plants. Warm regions. Two main types: Summer savory, Satureja hortensis an annual and Winter or creeping winter savory Satureja montana a perennial. An evergreen perennial used mainly for tea is Satureja douglasii. (a,p/s,c,t/sp/12"-18"/fs,pot) x x x Sesame Sesamum indicum. (for warm areas only) (a/s/sp/1'-3'/fs) x x Spearmint (see "mint" above) Tarragone, French Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa Not winter-hardy. The related Russian tarragon is more winter-hardy, but of inferior quality. (p/c/sp,fa/1'-2'/fs,pot) x Thyme, common, English, French, garden Thymus vulgaris. Over 300 species and their hybrids such as lemon thyme T. x citriodorus. (p/s,t/sp/2"-12"/fs,ps) x x x x thyme, creeping T. serpyllum (p/s,t/sp/2"-4/fs) x x Valerian, garden heliotrope Valeriana officinalis (p/c,d,s,t/fa/3'-4'/fs) x x x x Wintergreen Gaultheria procumbens (p/c,d,s/sp/4"-6"/ps,pot) x x Woodruff, sweet Galium odoratum (p/t/6"-12"/ps) x x x x x HERBS BY MAIL Seed and/or plants of the above-mentioned herbs are available from one or more of the companies listed: Abundant Life Seed Foundation, Box 772, Port Townsend, WA 98368 W. Atlee Burpee Co. 300 Park Avenue, Warminster, PA 18974 Comstock, Ferre & Co. P O Box 125, 263 Main Street, Wethersfield, CT 06109 Gurney Seed & Nursery Co. 1448 Page Street, Yankton, SD 57079 Johnny's Selected Seeds, Albion, ME 04910 J. W. Jung Seed Co. 335 S. High Street, Box H81, Randolph, WI 53956 Nichols Garden Nursery, 1190 North Pacific Highway, Albany, OR 97321 George W. Park Seed Co. P O Box 31, 398 Cokesbury Rd. Greenwood, SC 29647 Redwood City Seed Co. P O Box 361, Redwood City, CA 94064 Taylor's Herb Gardens. 1535 Lone Oak Road, Vista, CA 92084. 619/727-3485 Thompson & Moran Inc. P O Box 100, Farmingdale, NJ 07727 PEST CONTROL FOR HERBS THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION- ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL. USE PESTICIDES SAFELY! Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. Bathe or shower after each use. Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have). Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from pesticide use. WEED CONTROL The Pacific Northwest Weed Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper culti- vation, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control. INSECT CONTROL The Pacific Northwest Insect Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. DISEASE CONTROL The Pacific Northwest Disease Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable sources reduces risk from "seed born" diseases. --------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------- This information was prepared by the Oregon State University Extension Service from Oregon and Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable production guidelines from public institutions in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial vegetable producers. Address comments or questions to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S. Mansour, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University Corvallis, OR 9733l --------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------- From dragon@csulb.edu Sun Mar 12 22:09:40 EST 1995 Article: 57929 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news.Gsu.EDU!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!csulb.edu!beach.csulb.edu!dragon From: Brian Lo Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: FAQ: Okra Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:46:10 -0800 Organization: Cal State Long Beach Lines: 230 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: beach.csulb.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO X-Status: A OKRA Abelmoschus esculentus Okra is not well adapted to Oregon climatic conditions, requiring high soil temperatures and high day and night temperatures for best production. Okra may be grown in the warmer parts of the state when special efforts are made to provide the proper environmental conditions. This would include the use of plastic mulch and wind breaks to improve temperatures around the plant and in the soil. VARIETIES Green types: Blondy, 48-50 days, dwarf plant 3'high, spineless, ribbed, lime-green. Annie Oakley, 52 days, plants 3-4'tall. Prelude, 52 days, plants 3-4'tall. Clemson Spineless, 55 days, plants 5' tall, pods 5-6"long, large diameter, most commonly available variety. Emerald, 55 days, plants 5' tall, pods to 8"long, small diameter. Perkins Mammoth Long Pod, 60 days, plants 6 to 10' tall, pods 7-8" long, intense green. Red types: Red Okra; 55 to 65 days, 3 to 4 feet tall, bushy plants with 6 to 7" pods. Red Velvet; similar to Red Okra. SEED COMPANIES Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915 Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352 La Marche Seeds International, POB 190, Dixon, CA 95620 Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240 SOIL Well drained, sandy soils are preferred. Addition of manure or other organic material is usually beneficial on such light textured soils. Okra grows best in neutral to slightly alkaline soils, pH 6.5-7.5. TEMPERATURE REQUIREMENTS Okra is a tropical plant requiring warm growing conditions. Commercial production is recommended only in the warmest portions of the state. Night temperatures should be above 55 F for good growth. Minimum soil temperature for germination is 60 F. Optimum soil tempera- ture range is 75-90 F. PLASTIC ROW COVERS AND MULCHES Black plastic mulch will increase soil temperatures, control weeds, and conserve moisture, increasing yield and earliness. A new generation of plastic mulch films allows for good weed control together with soil warming that is intermediate between black plastic and clear film. These films are called IRT (infra-red transmitting) films. They are more expensive than black or clear films, but may be cost-effective where soil warming is important. Spun bonded polyester and polypropylene, and perforated polyethylene row covers may be used for 4-8 weeks immediately after transplanting. Covers should be removed when plants begin to flower to permit proper pollination. Row covers can increase heat unit accumulation by 2-3 times over ambient. Up to 4 F of frost protection may also be obtained at night. Soil temperatures and root growth can also be increased under row covers as are early yields, and in some cases total yields. SEEDING Okra seed numbers approximately 8,000 per pound. Use approximately 8-12 lbs. seed/acre. Plant 1" deep, 4-6 seeds/foot of row. Thin to desired spa- cing when plants are 3" tall. Germination many be enhanced by soaking seeds several (4-6 hours) hours or overnight immediately before planting. The seed will need to be surface dried for mechanical planting. SPACING Rows 36-48" apart, 12-24" between plants. Tall or spiny cultivars require wide spacing. TRANSPLANTING Growers interested in early fresh market or in short growing season areas may find it profitable to transplant. Sow seeds in 2" pots or cell packs, 3 seeds per pot, 1/4" deep, 4-5 weeks ahead of transplanting. Thin to 1 plant per pot or cell. FERTILIZER The following are general recommendations. Before planting apply: Nitrogen: 30-50 lb./acre applied at planting. Side dress with an additional 35-50 lbs. N/acre when plants are 8-10" tall, or use 25 lb./acre nitrogen after first fruit set and again after 4-6 weeks at the same rate. Adequate nitrogen is necessary to ensure a long harvest period, however excessive rates are to be avoided as they can cause okra to become excessively vegetative. Phosphorus: 50-100 lbs./acre, all applied at, or before planting. IRRIGATION Okra requires adequate soil moisture throughout its entire growing period if optimum growth and yield are to be obtained. Avoid heavy early irrigations as these can cool the soil and slow development. HARVESTING, HANDLING AND STORAGE Okra pods should be harvested while still tender and before the seeds are half grown. This is usually 5-6 days after flowering. Pods with tips that will bend between the fingers without breaking are too tough for use as fresh fruit. Consumer preference demands pods 2 1/2"-3 1/2" in length. Okra should be harvested about 3 times each week. Regular picking increases yield. Remove and discard old pods from the plant as such pods will retard pod set and reduce total yield. Under good conditions 300 to 400 lbs. might be obtained per picking per acre. In the warmer, longer season areas of Oregon (the Columbia and Snake River areas) okra might be harvested over a 50 to 60 day season. Okra plants and pods may have small spines to which some people are allergic. Pickers should wear gloves and long sleeved shirts as skin protec- tion. STORAGE (quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook # 66): Hold okra at 45 to 50 F and 90 to 95 % relative humidity. Okra deter- iorates rapidly and is normally stored only briefly to hold for marketing or processing. Large quantities are canned, frozen or brined. It has a very high respiration rate at warm temperatures and should therefore be promptly cooled to retard heating and subsequent deterioration. Okra in good condition can be stored satisfactorily for 7 to 10 days at 45 to 50 F. At higher temperatures toughening, yellowing, and decay are rapid. A relative humidity of 90 to 95 % is desirable to prevent shriveling. At temperatures below 45 F okra is subject to chilling injury, which is manifested by surface discoloration, pitting, and decay. Holding okra for 3 days at 32 F may cause sever pitting. Contact or to ice will cause water spotting in 2 or 3 days. Fresh okra bruises easily, the bruises blackening within a few hours. A bleaching type of injury may also develop when okra is held in hampers for more than 24 hours without refrigeration. Storage containers should permit ventilation. Prepackaging in perforated film is helpful. both to prevent wilting and physical injury during handling. Results of a packaging study suggest that 5 to 10 % carbon dioxide in the atmosphere lengthens shelf life by about a week. Higher concentrations of carbon dioxide caused off-flavors. PACKAGING Okra is shipped in bushel hampers or crates, holding 30 lb. net; 5/9 bushel crates, 18 lb. net; 12 quart baskets, 15-18 lb. net; or loose pack in cartons or LA. lugs, 18 lb. net. PEST CONTROL FOR OKRA THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION- ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL. USE PESTICIDES SAFELY! Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. Bathe or shower after each use. Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have). Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from pesticide use. WEED CONTROL The Pacific Northwest Weed Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper culti- vation, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control. INSECT CONTROL The Pacific Northwest Insect Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. DISEASE CONTROL The Pacific Northwest Disease Control Handbook has no control entries for this crop. Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable sources reduces risk from "seed born" diseases. Use spacings and irrigations practices that minimize diseases and allow for cultivation. Choose fields free of perennial weeds and where related crops have not been grown for the previous three years to minimize problems with diseases and weeds. -------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------- This information was adapted by the Oregon State University Extension Service from Oregon and Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable production guidelines from public institutions in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial vegetable producers. Address comments or questions to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S. Mansour Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University Corvallis, OR 9733l. -------------------------------------------------- From macrakis@osf.org Sun Mar 12 22:09:54 EST 1995 Article: 57931 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!paperboy.osf.org!usenet From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How do I grow perennials from seed??? Date: 10 Mar 1995 22:37:11 GMT Organization: OSF Research Institute Lines: 57 Message-ID: References: <5g5atdU.dovetail@delphi.com> <1995Mar7.141640.39826@cobra.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: lakatos.osf.org In-reply-to: klier@cobra.uni.edu's message of 7 Mar 95 14:16:40 -0600 Status: RO X-Status: I've been trying to get good information on perennial seed starting too. I've used the libraries at the Massachusetts Horticultural Society (across from Symphony Hall in Boston) and the Loeb Library at Harvard's Graduate School of Design, and browsed the bookstores. On the other hand, I have ZERO practical experience -- this will be my first time. _Park's Success with Seeds_ (by Ann Reilly) looks pretty good. Its reference section contains about half a page for each kind of plant, with a picture of a seedling (useful for identification). It covers ornamentals well, and also vegetables. _The Seed-starter's handbook_ (by Nancy Bubel) is apparently pretty popular, but I didn't like it much. It concentrates on vegetables, but has some coverage on ornamentals. Both of the above are apparently out of print, but fortunately the book below seems far better than either. By far the best book I've seen on seed starting, but also other forms of propagation, is _Creative propagation: a grower's guide_ (by Peter Thompson). Timber Press sells this for $23 (one bookstore that stocks it is WordsWorth in Cambridge, Mass. (http://www.wordsworth.com/misc/ other.html). Thompson is a very experienced propagator, and has lots of very down-to-earth advice on a variety of situations. He doesn't believe in fancy or expensive equipment, just good information and good technique. He covers everything from starting a few plants to setting up a greenhouse to fill a 1/3-acre lot! He has a "propagation table" which gives information on about 600 plants. For example, for Stachys (lamb's ears), the propagation table reads: Name Seeds | Cuttings | Divisions Cld Htd Cnd | Tip S/M Hdw Bas Rt Bud | Div Lay Blb | | Stachys ... 3/4 ... | ... ... ... 6-8 ... ... | 4:8 ... ... Which means: Propagate by: Seed in a heated bed in March or April or Basal cuttings in June through August or Division of rooted shoots from parent plant in April or August The dates are based on experience in England, so may have to be adjusted for US conditions. -s From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:10:17 EST 1995 Article: 57935 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: seedlings for kids Message-ID: <1995Mar10.210814.40053@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 10 Mar 95 21:08:14 -0600 References: <9503101538327975@nwcs.org> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 47 Status: RO X-Status: In article <9503101538327975@nwcs.org>, chenaya.strutton@nwcs.org (Chenaya Strutton) writes: > JG>From: jgolden@cbmse.nrl.navy.mil (Joel Golden) > >What's a good plant for a class of kids to sprout seeds? > > I'm sure you'll get lots of suggestions for this... > > Radishes, marigolds, leaf-type lettuce, sunflower and alyssum come to > mind. And while I think about it, I rememder being enthralled by corn > and bean seeds that were sprouted in glass jars. If I remember right, > you rolled up stiff paper towels (the kind most schools have) and set > them upright in a jar so the paper conforms to the shape of the jar. > Then stuffed crumpled paper towels into the center to hold it in > place. Then added enough water so that the paper stayed wet but not > soggy. Then put bean or corn seeds that had soaked in water over-night > in the jars, against the glass about half way up. You might have to > add more paper towels to hold everything in place. ... More fun and games with the rolled-towels-in-a-glass: Can plants that have started to grow right side up turn themselves upright if the glass is then laid on its side? Is there a particular part of the plant that bends? Can you make a plant stem do a complete loop by repositioning the glass a little at a time, or will it "work the kinks out"? Does it matter which species you're looking at? What if you put a seedling in a carboard maze, away from the entrance, and put the lid on the box and put the entrance to the maze in the light? Can the plant find its way out? What's the longest you can persuade a bean plant to grow while looking for light? If you start seedlings in the dark, and bring them into the light, how fast do they green up? Is it an all or nothing process, or gradual (hint: start *lots* of small batches of seedlings in the dark, and bring out a new pot every hour. But the room you're keeping the seedlings in has to be dark, dark, dark!) If tops of plants always grow back up when you reorient a seedling, do roots always go down? What happens when you plant a corn seed in the various orientations (flat sides down, pointy end down, broad end down)? Can seeds turn in the soil so they're "right side up"? (Is there a "right side up" for a seed?) .... (yes, it's ok for grownups to do these experiments, too... go ahead and have fun! 8-) ) Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:10:24 EST 1995 Article: 57936 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What are you growing from seed? Message-ID: <1995Mar10.211020.40054@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 10 Mar 95 21:10:20 -0600 References: <3jqmut$mcp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 18 Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jqmut$mcp@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, birdmommy@aol.com (Birdmommy) writes: > No, let's NOT start on the vegetables! (grin) I think I've created a > monster! My 7 year old has asked us to take DOWN her swingset so she can > put in a vegetable garden (swingset sits on the only LEVEL piece of soil > in the backyard, it USED to be my veggie garden....) We then proceeded to > send off a check for $20 to Gurney for the seeds she wanted and an extra > penny for the "Kids Jumble" pack. I just hope my neighbors like > veggies.......all this started with 2 packets of tomato seeds, of which > all sprouted in one and all PLUS TEN (huh? where did THEY come from?) in > the second packet! I now have 56 tomato plants!!! Anybody want me to > e-mail them some tomatoes? Shhhhh! My swingset was still up when I was in college (the neighbor kids liked to play on it)... I wanted to cover it with plastic and have an unheated greenhouse.... :-) Kay klier@cobra.uni.edu From ledwards@crl.com Sun Mar 12 22:10:29 EST 1995 Article: 57937 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!crl5.crl.com!not-for-mail From: ledwards@crl.com (Lynn Edwards) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: tomato worms Date: 7 Mar 1995 21:20:34 -0800 Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access (415) 705-6060 [Login: guest] Lines: 39 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jjer2$g4s@crl5.crl.com> References: <14413790.1508908@lamg.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: crl5.crl.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: Jerald Brainin (jabes@lamg.com) wrote: : I am looking for an effective non-toxic answer to tomato worms????? What about Bacillus Thuringiensis? It's sold under several brand names - ask any nursery. Wait though, did you mean non-toxic even to tomato worms? :-) Years ago someone told me that the stripes on a tomato worm were florescent under ultra violet light. Since I am one to never leave a bizarre remedy untested I set out one night with the UV light from an EPROM eraser (never mind what that is - think of it a a blacklight on steroids). It was powered through a long extension cord plugged into my kitchen. Wow, what an experience! The tomato worms were more visible then they are during the day. In daylight the "color" of the worm is the same as the plant making them very hard to spot. Under UV illumination the contrast between the worm and the tomato are quite different. The stripes do NOT exhibit florescence, though. The whole worm worm is just a different color. It is not he tomato worms that are interesting though. It is the spiders. There were some spiders in my tomato plants that lit up in incredible brilliance. I mean BIG spiders, the ones you never see during the day. Big angry stripes over their eyes, racing stripes along their bodies, you have to see it to understand. I have never been able to reach into the center of a tomato plant to pluck that last juicy tomato with the same casual attitude ever since. The end result of my experiment is that the extension cord that I snaked through the garden did more damage than all the tomato worms I have ever encountered put together. Each little tug on the cord sheared off another plant right at ground level totally unknown to me until I went out the next morning. Extension cords just aren't visible at night even under UV. ---Lynn Edwards From reikirk@ksu.ksu.edu Sun Mar 12 22:10:51 EST 1995 Article: 57941 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.ksu.ksu.edu!abc.ksu.ksu.edu!not-for-mail From: reikirk@ksu.ksu.edu (Bob Kirk) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: BLUE poppies! Was Date: 7 Mar 1995 23:29:36 -0600 Organization: Kansas State University Lines: 14 Message-ID: <3jjfc0$j8a@abc.ksu.ksu.edu> References: <3j35e7$huv@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3j3kc5$mhq@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: abc.ksu.ksu.edu X-Newsreader: NN version 6.5.0 #1 (NOV) Status: RO X-Status: >PS - Did anyone see this months Gardens Illustrated? How 'bout them >Himalayan Blue Poppies? I found a local supplier for these seeds, but I >have been told that they do not germinate very well. Anyone know of any >stock that I can get my hands on? Are they hardy in Zone 5 (I am assuming >they are)? Denver Botanic Garden (per your mail address) may be able to provide some answers. I seem to remember hearing that the blue Meconopsis grew like weeds for [someone there whose name I don't remember] who lived up at Evergreen. Anyway, check with the help desk, library or whatever at DBG. The short answer, though, is that down in Denver you probably can't keep 'em alive for ten minutes - apparently the case for just about anyplace in the USA, though it's never been known to keep people from trying. From doucet@cae.ca Sun Mar 12 22:11:25 EST 1995 Article: 57946 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newsflash.concordia.ca!news.mcgill.ca!clouso.crim.ca!sunqbc.risq.net!nowhere!doucet From: doucet@cae.ca (Dominique Doucet) Subject: >>> Help:Begonias FAQ ??? Message-ID: <1995Mar8.205315.25859@cae.ca> Organization: CAE X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 20:53:15 GMT Lines: 23 Status: RO X-Status: I there, I saw a FAQ on Roses when surfing the internet. I'm looking for some information on Begonia. Is there a FAQ on Begonia somewhere. The reason why i'm looking for that is that i bought approx. 2500 plants of begonia that i want to uses for my wedding in July 95. I'm not a botany expert, so that why i want to find more info on this type of flower. Thank you in advance ... :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: : Dominique Doucet : If the human brain were simple : : Mtl,Quebec, : enough for us to understand, : : Canada : we'd be so simple we couldn't. : : Email: doucet@cae.ca : : :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: From afsan@io.org Sun Mar 12 22:11:28 EST 1995 Article: 57947 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!tribune.usask.ca!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news.bc.net!torn!uunet.ca!uunet.ca!io.org!nobody From: afsan@io.org (afsan) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wildflowers - Southern Ontario Date: 9 Mar 1995 20:14:32 -0500 Organization: Internex Online (Data: 363-3783/Telnet: io.org) Lines: 10 Message-ID: <3jo95o$an9@ionews.io.org> References: <3jjd1m$ljl@news.compulink.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: r-node.io.org Status: RO X-Status: Sorry, I can't recommend a source for wildflower /mixes/ in our area, but if you want individual plants, I recommend the Canadian Wildflower Society. Every winter their magazine lists available seed which has been grown or collected by members and they hold sales twice a year which feature native trees, bushes and wildflowers. The spring wildflower sale is especially good. This year's sale is April 15 at the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Ave. East, North York (Toronto). Doors open at 10:00 and it lasts several hours as the mobs descend upon the hapless plants. Mike From talisman@crl.com Sun Mar 12 22:11:39 EST 1995 Article: 57949 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!olivea!decwrl!nntp.crl.com!crl3.crl.com!not-for-mail From: talisman@crl.com (Jim Huber) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Favorite Garden Tools Date: 10 Mar 1995 20:09:11 -0800 Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access (415) 705-6060 [Login: guest] Lines: 23 Message-ID: <3jr7p7$5rv@crl3.crl.com> References: <7770-198024301@mcube.com> <3j0evh$p6s@mindcrime.interstate.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: crl3.crl.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: I couldn't do with this tool either - it's absolutely the best weeder I've ever used. I use it for _all_ weeds, as it's narrower point can manage the most delicate weeding, yet it has the heft and leverage to get down deep in the soil to make getting the long tap-rooted weeds with ease. I have it in its holster on a work belt along with my equally indispensable pruner; both go with me everywhere in the garden. So far no one has dared to comment that I look armed and dangerous :-). Jan Mountjoy San Francisco Bay Area David Kolasa (dak2@psu.edu) wrote: : I've found a Japanese gardening knife that I got from Smith and Hawkins a few : years back to be indispensible now. Usually Smith and Hawkins is way out of my : price range but this knife was about $7. It is very sturdy, about 8" long and : 1 1/2" wide and one side of the blade is serrated. It's great for working in : small tight spots and digging down deep to get hard to extract roots. I've : seen one like it for sale at Walmart. : A few of my friends have seen it and say its scary looking . . . tho' I think : the wide blade and serrated edge make it look like a tool not a weapon. From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:12:22 EST 1995 Article: 57958 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: morning glory foliage Message-ID: <1995Mar10.222517.40057@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 10 Mar 95 22:25:17 -0600 References: <3johal$9sf@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 42 Status: RO X-Status: In article , FEENEY writes: > On this list we have had various discussions about confusions with common > names. Morning glories fall into this category. I grow Ipomoeas as > annuals, from seed, not to be confused with bindweed, a similar looking > vine, sharing the same common name of morning glory but a nasty invasive > brut as perennial as the seasons. So, taxonomists out there, please > explain how the genus Convolvulus fits into the name game here. And what > about Quamoclit (star glory) and Calonyction (moonflower). Are these now > classified as Ipomoeas? Last time I looked at the generally accepted schemes for the Convolvulaceae, Ipomoea was considered to have 2-3 lobed capitate stigmas, and Convolvulus to have 2-cleft (linear, oblong, ovate) stigmas, and Calystegia, and which had solitary flowers and 1-loculate fruits vs. multiloculate fruits in the rest of the Convolvulaceae. Calystegia and Convolvulus are usually called bindweeds: about 25 species of Calystegia, and 250 of Convolvulus. There are roughly 500 species of Ipomoea. Morning glory is used for most of the genus Ipomoea, but it also includes I. alba (moonflower, once called Calonyction), I. batatas, sweet potato (not to be confused with yams, which are Dioscorea, of the Dioscoreaceae!), I. coccinea, once known as Quamoclit coccinea, and I. nil, once called Pharbitis nil, beloved of plant physiologists. I know it drives most people up the wall to think that names can change, and a single species can masquerade under a bunch of different scientific names, but the name changes do reflect our evolutionary understanding of the groups: they're not just the product of a fevered brain that has been around too many mothballs. (Besides, we've got ways of tracing all those name changes... eventually, they all lead back to a real plant, glued on a piece of paper, and filed in a herbarium). Don't sweat the name changes... if you can't locate a plant under the scientific name you thought you knew it by, ask a taxonomist to help locate synonyms. BTW, the USDA GRIN (germplasm resources information network) and the Gray Herbarium gopher at Harvard are good places to start. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:13:28 EST 1995 Article: 57969 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Amaryllis (spell)question Message-ID: <1995Mar8.165244.39901@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 8 Mar 95 16:52:44 -0600 References: <3jkhkk$2sd1@lamar.ColoState.EDU> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 17 Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jkhkk$2sd1@lamar.ColoState.EDU>, zaphod@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Michael Kennedy) writes: > I decided to try and fertilize a flower. I dipped my fingertip in the pollen and > fertilized two flowers. My reward is (after one week) > two (I hate vi) seed pods forming. Here's my question-- What shouldn't I do with these pods? How long till ripe? What don't I plant the seeds in? Well, I can't answer your questions specifically, but what I WOULD do is to wait till the fruit is starting to turn brown... probably in a couple of months.... and then remove the seeds, which will look like dark bb's. Spread the seeds on a flat of soil, cover with sand or soil, water, and incubate. You should get seedlings within a month or so. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:13:31 EST 1995 Article: 57970 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mushy Vegetables Message-ID: <1995Mar8.165739.39903@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 8 Mar 95 16:57:38 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 24 Status: RO X-Status: In article , naomi@anasazi.com (Naomi Walker) writes: > > > I believe we've talked about this before, but I need a reminder. I > have been very successful growing carrots and celery this winter. > When I harvest them, I bring them in the house, wash and dry them, > and put them in the refrigerator in those new "vegetable" bags (plastic > bags with little air holes). > > Even though the vegetables are quite crisp coming out of the garden, > they get rubbery in the house. Anyone have any suggestions? They're getting rubbery as they loose water. Try a regular ziplock bag or a "tupperware"-type container. Soak the carrots and celery sticks in plain water for an hour before you use them if the problem persists. One of the most successful "veggie keepers" I ever used was a sealed plastic box with a raised grid floor. You put water in the box so that it covered the floor of the box, but didn't touch the grid. Veggies went on top of the grid. Result: 100% humidity. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From herb@tuna.hooked.net Sun Mar 12 22:13:57 EST 1995 Article: 57975 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!its.hooked.net!tuna.hooked.net!not-for-mail From: herb@tuna.hooked.net (Jackie Davis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: How to put minerals back into the earth, soil anywhere, anytime, anyplace a simple process!! Date: 8 Mar 1995 15:11:40 -0800 Organization: HOOKeD Lines: 7 Message-ID: <3jldjc$ek@tuna.hooked.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: tuna.hooked.net Status: RO X-Status: send your email address to Herb Consultants and we will send you the process to put back into our soil what we have taken out over the years so our plants can produce the nutrients that they once did.(lawns, gardens, flowers beds, pots, any type soil) Jackie herb@hooked.net From dragon@csulb.edu Sun Mar 12 22:14:21 EST 1995 Article: 57979 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!csulb.edu!beach.csulb.edu!dragon From: Brian Lo Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: FAQ: Cucumber Pickles Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 13:44:57 -0800 Organization: Cal State Long Beach Lines: 1158 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: beach.csulb.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO X-Status: CUCUMBER for PICKLING Cucumis sativus (See also file on cucumbers for fresh market) VARIETIES (approximately 50-60 days to start of hand harvest and 60-70 days to machine harvest in the Willamette Valley). Processors determine varieties to be grown. Brining quality (firmness, color), length:width ratio, seed development rate, fruit appearance, disease resistance and yield are primary considerations. Varieties suggested for direct market and U-Pick operations are: Hand harvest, black spine types: Pioneer, Bounty. White spine: Calypso, Regal, Cross Country, Flurry M, FanciPack, Blitz, Carolina, Tripleme- ch, Quest, Duke. Machine harvest, determinate vine types: Napoleon, Vlaspik, Castlepik, Sunseeds 3509. Semi, or in-determinate types: Lafayette, Calypso, Quest, Fanci Pack, Flurry M, Cross Country, Regal, Triplemech (all with multiple disease resistance and white spine). For trial: Duke, Premier, Score, Royal, (all white spine, with multiple disease resistance); Peto H-19 Little Leaf, also white spine). Parthenocarpic (needing no pollination) varieties FOR TRIAL ONLY: Anka, Parmel, Arena, Adonis; County Fair (multiple disease resistance, and seedless when isolated from other cucumbers). SEED COMPANIES Asgrow Seed Company, POB 5038, Salinas CA 93915 Bejo Seeds, 1323 E. Fir St. Mount Vernon WA 98273 Ferry-Morse Seed Co. POB 4938, 555 Codoni Ave. Modesto, CA 95352 Harris Moran Seed Co. 3670 Buffalo Rd. Rochester, NY 14624 Nunhems Seed Corp. POB 18, Lewisville, ID 83431-0018. ph:208/754-8669 Park Seed Co. Cokesbury Road, Greenwood, SC 29647-0001 Petoseed Co. Inc. POB 4206, Saticoy, CA 93303 Stokes Seeds Inc. POB 548, Buffalo, NY 14240 Sunseeds, 2320 Technology Pkwy. Hollister, CA 95023 W. Osborne Seed Co. Int'l. 1679 Highway 99 South, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 Zenner Bros. Seed Co., Inc. 1311 S.E. Gideon St. Portland, OR 97202 SOILS Pickling cucumbers can be grown on a wide range of soils if the soils are well drained and have about 2-3% organic matter, and a high level of fertility. Irrigation is essential to maintain good soil moisture and to obtain high quality fruit. Avoid heavy soils or those easily compacted. Use a soil test to determine the nutrient status and pH. For machine harvest, avoid clay soils since clay can seriously dirty the fruit under wet conditions. Choose fields that are rectangular for efficiency of machine harvest. Avoid fields enclosed by tree rows that limit air movement, since this may provide an environment conducive to foliar and fruit diseases. TEMPERATURE Recent research indicates that temperature range for optimum cucumber growth is 86-90 F. Night temperatures above 70 F. especially when combined with moisture stress result in rapid seed development and softening of internal tissues. Minimum soil temperature required for germination of this crop is 60 F. with the optimum between 70 and 95 F. Pickling cucumbers are sensitive to cool soil conditions. Under such conditions, damping-off can seriously reduce stands, and seedling growth may be very slow. SEED AND SEED TREATMENT Cucumber seed numbers approximately 17,600 per pound, except Little Leaf types which are smaller, numbering about 32,000 per pound. Use treated seed. Pickling cucumbers can be particularly sensitive to damping-off problems. Proper seed treatments can dramatically improve stands. Some seed companies offer primed seed. Growers may also send seed to specialty companies that will prime seed for them on request. New develop- ments in seed priming (solid matrix priming) offer advantages not available until very recently. Although primed seed may emerge earlier and more uniformly, reducing certain production risks, these advantages may, or may not translate into earlier harvests, higher yields or better quality. Primed seed has limited storage life. SEEDING Approximately 60-70 days are required between seeding and machine har- vest. Sequential plantings are necessary for orderly harvest. Heat-unit systems to schedule plantings are of limited use. Processing company fieldmen will determine schedules appropriate to processing needs. Cucumbers for pickling are planted from about mid May through June. Fields intended for hand harvest are planted as soon as weather permits with subsequent planting dates left largely up to the grower. Fields for machine harvest are planted on a tight schedule to fit product grade requirements, processing capabilities and harvesting machinery availability Pickling cucumbers varieties are always direct-seeded. Seed carefully at a depth l/2 to l in. depending on soil moisture. For hand harvest plan- tings use about 2 to 2 1/2 lbs. of seed per acre aiming or populations of about 20,000 plants per acre. Limited research on the economics of combining hand and machine harvest indicate that plant populations for such fields should be the same as for fields intended for machine harvest only. Use about 6-9 lbs. of seed per acre and populations of 75,000 to 85,000 plants per acre for plantings intended for once-over (destructive) machine harvest. Generally 1 lb of seed produces 12000-15000 plants under good conditions. Final Spacing: Recommended Between Rows Within Row Population for hand harvest 4-5 feet 6-8 inches 18,000-20,000 (300 to 450 square inches per plant) for machine harvest 18-28 inches, 3-4 inches indeterminate (84-90 inch headers) (3 or 4 rows types: per bed) 75,000-85,000 determinate types: 85,000-120,000 Little Leaf 35,000-40,000 Note: 74 square inches per plant spacing results in approximately 85,000 plants/Acre WINDBREAKS Where needed, windbreaks are often overlooked as a crop protection aid. In general, close windbreaks, even between every row, give the best wind protection and may moderate the crop micro-climate enough to promote faster plant growth. Where winter cover crops have been employed, it would be a good practice to leave strips of the cover crop as windbreaks. In this case, the strips for the plant beds can be prepared by rototilling, leaving windbreak strips between the plant rows. Establishment of a windbreak crop in the previous fall will insure enough growth to become effective as a windbreak by spring planting time. Seed grain thickly, 2-3 seeds per inch. This requires about 10 lbs. of barley, 9 lbs. of wheat, or 8 lbs. of rye to seed grain rows 12 feet apart. Spring grains such as barley may be useful if planted in February in eastern Oregon. Windbreaks can be removed by mowing, tilling, or an appropriate herb- icide once their useful life is over. FERTILIZER Good management practices are essential if optimum fertilizer responses are to be realized. These practices include use of recommended varieties, selection of adapted soils, weed control, disease and insect control, good seed bed preparation, proper seeding methods, and timely harvest. Because of the influence of soil type, climatic conditions, and other cultural practices, crop response from fertilizer may not always be accurately predicted. Soil test results, field experience, and knowledge of specific crop requirements help determine the nutrients needed and the rate of applica- tion. The fertilizer program should insure adequate levels of all nutrients. Optimum fertilization is essential for top quality, yields, and returns. Recommended soil sampling procedures should be followed in order to estimate fertilizer needs. The OSU Extension Service agent in your county can provide you with soil sampling instructions and soil sample bags and informa- tion sheets. Recommendations are based on a row spacing of 60". With decreased row spacings fertilizer rates should be increased. Western Oregon: NITROGEN (N) For fields intended for hand-harvested plantings rates of 80 to 150 lb N/A are suggested with the lower rates of N being applied when legumes were grown the preceding year or a green manure crop is incorporated into the soil prior to planting. Apply one-half the nitrogen at or just prior to planting and the rest when vines begin to "run". For machine harvested fields nitrogen rates of 60 to 100 lbs appear to be adequate. All the nitrogen may be applied at, or just prior to planting. Determinate vine cultivars may produce highest yields at the higher N rates per acre without danger of excessive vine growth. Exercise care in nitrogen fertilization and irrigation. Excess applica- tions of either may result in viney plant growth which interferes with bee pollination and machine harvest, and promotes foliar and fruit diseases, resulting in reduced fruit set, loss of small pickles in machine harvest, and an increase in fruit disorders. Although plant populations are much higher for machine harvested fields than hand-picked fields, the machine-harvested fields have a much shorter production period, generally being harvested once destructively. Fields intended to be hand-picked several times before a machine harvest would have to have nitrogen managed differently. Pickling cucumbers are sensitive to fertilizer burn. If the application of N plus potash (K2 O) exceeds 50 lb/A, there is danger of seedling injury from the fertilizer if it is all banded at planting time. There is less danger if the band application is split into two bands. The danger is aggravated as the band comes closer to the seed, and is greater with sandy than with finer textured soil. Immediate irrigation at the first sign of burn should reduce further injury. There is more possibility of damage to seed- lings on acid soils where the pH is below 5.5. PHOSPHORUS (P) Phosphorus fertilizer should be banded at planting for vigorous early seedling growth. Bands should be located 2" to the side and 2" below the seed. Phosphorus management would be the same for hand and machine harvested fields. If the OSU soil test Apply this amount of for P reads (ppm): phosphate (P2 O5 (lb/A): 0 to 15 120-150 l5 to 60 90-120 over 60 60-90 In some areas, a diluted phosphoric acid solution sprayed in a 1-2 inch wide band directly over the seed row has shown to reduce crusting, improve phosphorus nutrition of the crop and increase yield. The benefit of this treatment would be most likely to occur with early plantings on cool soils. POTASSIUM (K) Potassium for both hand and machine harvested fields should be applied before planting or banded at planting time. Amounts above 40 lb K2 O/A should be broadcast and worked into the seedbed. See statements on fertilizer banding under "NITROGEN". Potassium management would be the same for hand and machine harvested fields. If the OSU soil test Apply this amount of for P reads (ppm): potash K2 O (lb/A): 0 to 75 100-150 75 to 150 60-100 150 to 200 40-60 over 200 0 SULFUR (S) Include 20-30 lb S/A in the annual fertilizer program for vine crops. S is sometimes contained in fertilizers used to supply other nutrients such as N, P, and K but may not be present in sufficient quantity. Plants absorb S in the form of sulfate. Fertilizer materials supply sulfur in the form of sulfate and elemental S. Elemental S must convert to sulfate in the soil before the S becomes available to plants. The conversion of elemental S to sulfate is usually rapid for fine ground (less than 40 mesh) material in warm moist soil. Sulfur in the sulfate form can be applied at planting time. Some S fertilizer materials such as elemental S and ammonium sulfate have an aci- difying effect on soil. MAGNESIUM (Mg) When the soil test value is below 1.5 meq Mg/100g of soil or when calcium (Ca) is ten times more than the Mg, apply 10-15 lb Mg/A banded at planting. If Mg deficiency symptoms appear, spray with 10 lb Epsom salts in 100 gals of water/A. Magnesium can also be supplied in dolomite, which is a liming material and will reduce soil acidity. Dolomite should be incorporated into the seedbed at the rate of 1-1 1/2 T/A. BORON (B) In general, boron deficiencies are uncommon. If the soil test value for B is less than 1 ppm, an application of 3 lb B/A is suggested. Boron should be applied uniformly to the field as a spray or broadcast. Never band B fertilizer. Cucumbers are sensitive to excess Boron. ZINC (Zn) Zinc deficiencies are uncommon in Willamette Valley soils. When the soil test is below 1 ppm Zn, a response to Zn is expected and 4 lb Zn/A should be included in the fertilizer band. LIME Experimental work has shown that vine crops will produce good yields over a fairly wide range of soil acidity. Lime applications are suggested when the soil pH is 5.6 or below, or when calcium (Ca) levels are below 5 meq Ca/100g of soil. Optimum pH is between 5.8 and 7.0. The rate of lime application can be estimated from the following OSU SMP buffer table. If the OSU SMP buffer Apply this amount of test for lime reads: lime (T/A): Below 5.2 4-5 5.2 - 5.6 3-4 5.6 - 5.9 2-3 5.9 - 6.2 1-2 The liming rate is based on 100-score lime. Lime should be mixed into the soil at least several weeks before plan- ting. A lime application is effective over several years. Some soils may have a fairly high OSU SMP buffer value (over 6.5) and a low pH (below 5.5). This condition can be caused by the application of acidifying fertilizer. In this case the low pH value is temporary and the pH of the soil will increase as the fertilizer completes its reaction with the soil. This temporary "active" acidity from fertilizer is encountered follow- ing recent applications of most N fertilizer materials. Acidifying fertiliz- ers also have a "long term" acidifying effect on soil which is cumulative and leads to lower OSU SMP buffer readings. Sandy soils to which fertilizers have not been recently applied some- times record low pH and high SMP buffer values. In such cases, a light application of 1-2 T/A of lime should suffice to neutralize soil acidity. For acid soils low in Mg (less than 0.8 meq Mg/100g of soil), 1 T/A of dolomite lime can be used as a Mg source. Dolomite and ground lime stone have about the same ability to neutralize soil acidity. The possibility of seedling injury from the band application of ferti- lizer is less when the soil pH is 5.6 or above. Some Willamette Valley experiments have shown decreased uptake of phosphorus from band applications of phosphorus when the pH approaches 5.5. Lime applications should be broadcast, preferably in the fall, and incorporated into the seedbed. Do not plow lime down leaving the surface soil unlimed. Fertilizer Guide #2, "Liming Materials for Oregon", which is available from your local OSU Extension Office, provides additional information lime. Eastern Oregon: At time of seeding, band the following: Nitrogen: 40-60 (N) lb./acre Phosphate: 100-150 (P205) lb/acre Potash: 50-70 (K20) lb/acre Just before the vines begin to spread, side-dress with 50-75 lb/acre of nitrogen. For machine harvested pickling cucumbers, see notes under the "Western Oregon" section above. These fertilizer recommendations are based on research conducted by O.S.U. Horticulture and Soils Department and Extension faculty, and are quoted from O.S.U. Fertilizer Guide FG 68. FLOWERING AND POLLINATION Depending on cultivar, pickling cucumbers plants may bear separate male and female flowers on the same plant (monoecious), only female flowers (gyno- ecious), or male flowers and perfect flowers (male and female organs in the same flower) i.e. andromonoecious. Most modern cultivars have plants that bear only female flowers (gynoecious), so seeds of plants that are monoecious (bearing separate male and female flowers on the same plant) are mixed into the seed lot (usually 10 to 15%) to allow pollination. These seeds are usually dyed a different color from the seeds of the cultivar being planted. Bees are needed to transfer pollen from the male flowers to the female flowers, thus making fruit set possible. It is recommended that 1-2 honey bee colonies of 30,000 to 50,000 bees each be introduced for every acre during the blooming period. High population plantings intended for machine harvest require 2-3 colonies for the 1-2 week period coinciding with peak bloom. Naturally occurring bee populations are not considered to be adequate since their presence may not coincide with the full blooming period, or their numbers may be too low. Furthermore, the new gynoecious pickling varieties are less attractive to bees. Information from the midwest indicates that pickling cucumbers require at least 15 bee visits to each flower for normal pollination and fruit set, and maximum yields, although some of the new all-female varieties may set as much as one-third of their yield without being pollinated. Another reason for a high bee population at first bloom is that pollina- tion of flowers in the crown area over a short period (1-2 days) will result in the desired multiple fruit per plant and a range of usable fruit sizes. If pollination of flowers occurs over an extended period of time (several days) the later pollinated flowers will not develop until the first pollinated fruit is removed. This results in the often observed single fruit per plant in the crown area with all other fruit development stopped. Hives should be placed at the edge of the field after the first blooms are visible so that no point in the field is more than 200-300 yards away from a colony. Placing bees prior to flowering may result in the bees establishing themselves on nearby crops thus reducing their effectiveness in cucumber pollination. Research indicates that total yield increases resulting from good bee management can range from 25 to 50 percent. Pickling cucumber growers in the midwest are reported to have experienced an average increase of 30 percent from effective use of bees. IRRIGATION Irrigation requirements depend on the length of harvest. Some fields may be hand harvested 10-12 times and need to be kept growing adequately. Ten to fifteen inches of water may be required depending on seasonal variation and variety. Irrigations need to be coordinated with picking schedules. Adequate, uniform water applications are necessary to produce high quality fruit. Water stress contributes to higher incidence of nubs and crooks, and reduced fruit length. Water stress coupled with high night temperatures also results in rapid seed development and softening of cucumber internal tissues. Field observations in fields intended for machine harvest indicate that as harvest approaches (when fruit reaches a mean grade of 2.0), irrigation and soil moisture can have a dramatic effect on fruit sizing. When irrigation is applied at this time, especially during warm temperatures, fruit grade size can increase by 0.2 of a grade per day, necessitating harvest in 2 to 2.5 days. Conversely, if fruit sizing needs to be slowed or delayed, irrigation should be delayed, as long as it does not result in fruit wilting or crop damage. Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but does dictate frequency of water application. Lighter soils need more frequent water applications, but less water applied per application. HARVESTING AND HANDLING In western Oregon, pickling cucumbers are harvested from about mid July to mid October. The prime harvest season is from the end of July to the end of September. Oregon plantings are mostly hand harvested at this time. Different prices are paid for machine and hand harvested fruit. Processing requirements are set according to variety and desired product. Pickling cucumbers are graded by diameter. One processor grades: Grade #1: cucumbers less than 1"; grade #2: 1"-1.5"; grade #3: 1.5"-2". Fruit over 2" diameter is rejected by some or accepted up to 2.5" at minimal value for a maximum percentage per load by others. Nubs and crooks are also graded separately and paid for at a minimal price. Approximate average yields of pickling cucumbers are about 12 tons per acre for hand harvested fields that are picked about 10-12 times. Good yields are approximately 15-18 tons/acre. Where contracts are on a tonnage basis, and because of labor constraints, growers may over-plant acres so as to fulfill their contracts with less (7-10) pickings. For highest returns, thoroughly harvest marketable fruit at regular intervals. Remove oversize fruit so later fruit can develop properly. During warm weather conditions, pickling cucumbers may grow very rapidly and it is important to shorten harvest intervals. Pickling cucumbers can have a 40 % weight increase in 24 hours, especially when fields are well irrigated (see IRRIGATION section above), and may depreciate in value by 5 to 15 % over the same period. Machine harvested yields are approximately 6 tons/acre with good yields about 10 tons/acre. Yield is greatly dependent on the grade of the harvested product, so tonnage figures are a poor indicator of dollar return per acre. New harvesters (FMC) have demonstrated the capability of picking a higher percentage of small fruit and a better dollar return per acre. For once-over, destructive, machine harvest, the proper time is a major decision. Maximum dollar return per acre, and maximum value per ton, do not occur at the same time. Harvest time must be based on accurate field samp- ling. The processing company may dictate time of harvest based on their requirements for cucumber sizes. The grower must establish an agreement with the processor on time of harvest and grade values based on interactions of the type of machine harvester, variety, plant population and time of harvest. Machine harvesting and bulk handling capability may be limiting, and would have to be considered. Machine harvest with a Wilde or Byron harvester is usually begun when the average graded weight of harvested pickles is about 2.5. With the variety Calypso, this occurs just when the grade 4 pickles (oversize) reaches between 5 and 10 percent. The Raven Pickle Harvester, a harvesting machine built by Jerry's Welding of Ravenna, Michigan, has an oversize eliminator that sorts oversize cucumbers and puts them back on the field. The new FMC harvester which is designed to pick a higher percentage of small fruit may allow an earlier harvest start and a wider picking window. The price for small fruit is an important factor in this. It is important to point out that processors will differ in their grade requirements, and varieties differ in their size-grade distribution, and the rate of change of grade distribution with each day's delay of harvest. Varieties also differ in the quality of their large and oversize cucumbers. These factors affect the value of any given load. In the Willamette Valley, this can result in a change of $100.00 per day per acre in gross returns with the variety Calypso and similar lines. Machine-harvested pickling cucumbers must be washed and cooled immed- iately after harvest to reduce losses due to mechanical damage from the machine and soil abrasion. Portable washing equipment is commercially available in 3000 and 5000 gallon capacity tanks by some of the manufacturers of harvesting machines. STORAGE (Quoted from USDA Ag. Handbook #66): Pickling cucumbers have been successfully hydrocooled under experimental conditions and then held 4 days at 40 F They should be utilized immediately after removal from cold storage. HANDLING Pickling cucumbers are either hand or machine picked into large bins for delivery to processors. Care should be exercised in minimizing mechanical damage and protecting loads from heat build-up to minimize spoilage and maintain brining quality. PEST CONTROL FOR PICKLING CUCUMBER THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW, TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST PEST CONTROL HANDBOOKS, ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY, AND ARE REVISED ONLY ANNUALLY. BECAUSE OF CONSTANTLY CHANGING LABELS, LAWS, AND REGULATIONS, OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY CAN ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR THE CONSEQUENCES OF USE OF CHEMICALS SUGGESTED HERE. IN ALL CASES, READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND PRECAUTION- ARY STATEMENTS ON THE SPECIFIC PESTICIDE PRODUCT LABEL. USE PESTICIDES SAFELY! Wear protective clothing and safety devices as recommended on the label. Bathe or shower after each use. Read the pesticide label--even if you've used the pesticide before. Follow closely the instructions on the label (and any other directions you have). Be cautious when you apply pesticides. Know your legal responsibility as a pesticide applicator. You may be liable for injury or damage resulting from pesticide use. WEED CONTROL When black plastic ground mulch is not used, cultivate as often as necessary when weeds are small. Proper cultivation, field selection and rotations can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical weed control. ______________________________________________________________________________ ACTIVATED CHARCOAL SEED PROTECTION Several Pacific Northwest grass seed crops are protected from herbicide injury with the use of activated charcoal which adsorbs and detoxifies or inactivates the herbicide. In vegetables, activated charcoal can be mixed with horticul- tural grade vermiculite and applied as an anticrustant/seed protectant. The activated charcoal vermiculite mix is placed within the seed furrow using a positive feed device. Herbicides must not leach excessively or move readily from crop roots into the plant. Although crop safety can be enhanced, weeds emerging from within the treated area also are protected. Another use for activated charcoal involves seed protection from herbicides that leach into the seed zone from excessive rainfall. Seed coatings of activated charcoal would reduce the active concentration of herbicide at or very near the seed during the germination process. Activated charcoal/vermiculite mix: Thoroughly mix 1 lb activated charcoal/ft3 of number 2 or 3 grade horticultural vermiculite. If severe dustiness is a problem, add a small amount of water. Apply 1 ft3 of mixture/600 ft. of seeded row or approximately 15 cu.ft/A. Fill the seed furrow using a positive feed applicator and press with a press wheel. WEED MANAGEMENT GENERAL STRATEGY Weed management in cucurbits represents planning and integration of several practices. Crop rotations and, therefore, field selection containing control- lable weeds must be achieved before planting. Many growers use a stale seedbed technique followed by cultivation, except in excessively wet years. Row spacings that enhance canopy selectively controls weeds within the crop row. In eastern Oregon, rye windbreaks often are planted between rows and incorporated during the last cultivation. ______________________________________________________________________________ STALE SEEDBEDS FOR VEGETABLE PRODUCTION Stale seedbeds are sometimes used for vegetable production when other selec- tive weed control practices are limited or unavailable. The concept depends on controlling the first flush of emerged weeds before planting or emergence of the crop followed by minimal soil disturbance which reduces subsequent weed flushes during establishment of the crop. Following establishment, other weed control practices including cultivation or use of other herbicides can be used. 1. Prepare a seedbed, preferably 2 to 3 weeks before planting to achieve maximum weed seed germination near the soil surface. Soil temperatures and moisture must be reasonable or results will be erratic. 2. Plant the crop with minimum soil disturbance. Otherwise, new weed seed will be exposed to favorable germinating conditions. 3. Just before or after planting but before crop emergence, treat the field by flaming or with herbicide to kill all germinated or exposed weeds. Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Flaming Use liquid propane or similar fuel-burning equipment to qickly sear the weeds, but not consume them with flame. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Paraquat 0.625 to 0.94 lb ai/A Gramoxone Extra (see remarks) Restricted-use pesticide. Do not ingest or inhale spray mist. Wearing protective face shields, respirators, and clothing is advised. Apply during or after planting, but before crop emergence. Add a nonionic surfactant or crop oil concentrate according to label specifications, taking care to avoid anionic formulations that react in the tank to form insoluble precipitates. Exposed crop plants will be killed. Do not apply preplant or pre-emergence to soils lacking clay minerals, such as peat, muck, pure sand, or artificial planting media. (Acts as contact; absorbs energy produced by photosynthesis forming peroxides that disrupt living cells.) ______________________________________________________________________________ PREPLANT INCORPORATED Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ bensulide 5 to 6 lb ai/A Prefar Apply preplant and incorporate 0.5 to 1 inch deep simultaneously or immediately after application by cross-disking or using a PTO rotary tiller. Sometimes the first flush of weeds must be controlled with cultivation before herbicide begins to control grass. Consult label for planting sensitive crops within 18 months. Do not apply more than once every 12 months. (Inhibits roots of seedlings). ------------------------------------------------------------------------ bensulide + 4 to 6 lb naptalam + Prefar + Alanap 2 to 4 lb ai/A Note information above for bensulide and below for naptalam. Use lower rates on sandy soils. ______________________________________________________________________________ PREEMERGENCE Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ naptalam 3 to 4 lb ai/A Alanap Apply immediately after seeding to moist soil and sprinkler irrigate with 0.5 to 1 inch water or mechanically incorporate in 1 to 1.5 inches soil with spiketooth harrow to place herbicide in germination zone. Use lower rates on sandy soils. Controls primarily broadleaf weeds. (Reverses geotropism in roots). ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ethalfluralin 1.12 to 1.69 lb ai/A Curbit Adjust rates depending on soil texture and organic matter. Apply only as a postplant surface treatment before weed emergence. Activate with 0.5 inch irrigation within 2 to 5 days or cultivate soil surface above seed. Crop injury may occur with excessive rainfall or irrigation or if seeding depth is too shallow. Do not graze, nor apply to wet or cloddy soils. Note replanting restrictions for sugar beets and red beets listed on label. (Inhibits mitosis, primarily in shoots.) ______________________________________________________________________________ POSTEMERGENCE Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ sethoxydim 0.19 to 0.28 lb ai/A Poast Identify susceptible grasses and apply at optimum growth stage listed on the label. Add 2 pints/A nonphytotoxic crop oil concentrate to improve leaf absorption. Erratic control often occurs when grasses are stunted or stressed from drought, high temperatures, or low fertility. Resistant grasses include annual bluegrass and all fine fescues, whereas quack- grass can be suppressed. Do not within 14 days of harvest, nor exceed 3 pints/A per season. (Inhibits fatty acid production, cell membranes, and new growth.) ______________________________________________________________________________ POSTEMERGENCE LAY-BY TREATMENTS Weed Treatment Active Ingredient Per Acre and Application Comments ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ trifluralin 0.5 to 0.75 lb ai/A Treflan Apply as a directed spray between rows when crop has 3 to 4 true leaves and incorporate 2 to 3 inches deep, using rolling cultivators set to throw soil towards plants in the row. Spray only 1 time per year. Consult label for restrictions on planting sensitive crops within 12 months. Possible injury may result in cool soils and from carryover from repeated use without adequate rotation. (Inhibits mitosis, primarily in shoots). ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ethalfluralin 1.12 to 1.69 lb ai/A Curbit Adjust rates depending on soil textures and organic matter. Apply in bands between rows after planting or transplanting. Activate with 0.5 inch irrigation within 2 to 5 days or cultivate soil 1 to 2 inches deep. Do not graze or apply to wet cloddy soils. Note replanting restrictions for sugar beets and red beets listed on label. (Inhibits mitosis, primarily in shoots.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ DCPA 9 lb ai/A Dacthal Performs poorly in western Oregon and Washington. Elsewhere, apply after plants have 4 to 5 true leaves following a cultivation and weeding, but before any new weeds become established. Results are improved if rainfall or overhead irrigation occurs immediately after application. Consult label for restrictions on planting sensitive crops within 8 months. (Inhibits mitosis). ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ INSECT CONTROL Proper rotations and field selection can minimize problems with insects. THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST INSECT CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS. Insect and Description Control, Active Ingredient Per Acre --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Aphids, including diazinon - 0.5 lb spray Bean aphid Aphis fabae malathion - 1.25 lb Dull black plant louse that colo- Phosdrin - 0.25 lb nizes during latter part of the season. Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt Melon aphid Dibrom - 1 lb Aphis gossypii Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb Small plant louse, yellowish to dark green in color. Pale forms endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb have dark mottling. Colonize plants late in the season. NOTE: Bees are important in cross pollination of cucumbers. Take Potato aphid precautions to avoid poisoning Macrosiphum euphorbiae them. Green to pinkish plant louse that colonizes plants. Transmits virus. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cucumber beetles methoxychlor - 1 to 3 lb Small, slender, greenish-yel- diazinon dust - 0.5 lb low beetles with three promi- nent black stripes on back. At- malathion - 1 to 1.5 lb tack young plants. Larvae feed on roots and underground carbaryl - 1 lb parts of stems. Dibrom - 1 lb OR endosulfan - 0.5 to 1 lb Yellowish-green, black-spotted beetle, common to western Guthion - 0.5 lb Oregon and Southwestern Washington. Damage usually Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb limited to young plants. Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb Pyrellin - 1 to 2 pt --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cutworms Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb Many species Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb Small to large larvae that feed on foliage and stems. Sevin bait 5% pellets - 1.0 lb --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cabbage looper Lannate - 0.45 to 0.9 lb Trichoplusia ni Dibrom - 1 to 2 lb Pale green larvae with white stripes. Move in looping manner. Asana - 0.025 to 0.05 lb --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Grasshoppers Asana - 0.03 to 0.05 lb Different species Nosema locustae - use as manufacturer directs --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Seed corn maggot Seed Treatment Delia platura Lorsban 50 SL - 1 oz ai/100 lb of seed. Small legless maggot that feeds on and destroys germinating seeds. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Slugs metaldehyde baits. Do not con- taminate edible plant parts. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Spider mites Kelthane 35W - 0.6 lb Do not Tetranychus spp. feed or use EC formulations. Tiny spiderlike animals that malathion - 1 to 1.9 lb feed on plant juices causing leaves to turn yellow and die. Metasystox-R - 0.5 lb Phosdrin - 0.5 lb Dibrom - 1 lb --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Garden symphylan Telone II or C-17 Scutigerella immaculata Small, white, centipede-like animals in soil. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thrips diazinon - 0.5 lb spray Very small, slender insects. Pale Dibrom - 1 lb green (young) to black (adults). Feed on leaf surfaces. Surface feed- ing causes leaves to appear silvery. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Wireworms diazinon - 3 to 4 lb active Limonius spp. ingredient per acre. Broadcast granuals or emulsifiable Brown, jointed larvae of click formulations evenly on the soil beetles. Kill young plants, surface and incorporate into weaken older ones. the top 4-8 inches of soil. Telone II or C-17 ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ DISEASE CONTROL Proper rotations, field selection, sanitation, spacings, fertilizer and irrigation practices can reduce the risk of many diseases. Fields can be tested for presence of harmful nematodes. Using seed from reputable seed sources reduces risk from seed born diseases. THE PESTICIDES LISTED BELOW ARE TAKEN FROM THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST DISEASE CONTROL HANDBOOK, AND ARE FOR INFORMATION ONLY. CONSULT PRODUCT LABELS FOR CURRENTLY LEGAL REGISTRATIONS, RATES AND COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS. CUCUMBER -- ALTERNARIA LEAF SPOT (Fungus Leaf Spot) Cause: A fungus, Ulocladium consortiole. Recent work in Washington has shown this disease does not reduce yields under Washington conditions. Symptoms: Small tan spots which turn dark brown on maturing. Often concentric rings may be noticed in the older spots giving them a "bull's-eye" appearance. Coalescing spots may involve large areas of the leaf. Under Northwest condi- tions the fruit have not been attacked by this organism. Control: Use one of the following sprays: 1. Bravo 720 at 2 to 3 pt/A in water to cover. May be applied by sprinkler (see product label). 2. Mancozeb at 1.8 to 2.4 lb ai/A. Do not apply within 5 days of harvest. 3. Maneb at 1.2 to 1.6 lb ai/A. Do not apply within 5 days of harvest. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- ANGULAR LEAF SPOT Cause: Pseudomonas syringae pv. lachrymans lacrymans, a bacterium. The bacterium overwinters in diseased plant material and on the seed. It is spread by rain, sprinkle irrigation, or on hands and clothing of workers. In recent years the incidence of the disease has been reduced by the use of tolerant varieties. Symptoms: Leaves, stems, and fruits may be affected. The leaf spot is irregu- lar in shape, angular, with a water-soaked appearance. Bacteria may ooze from the spots in droplets which dry to a white residue. The water-soaked area later turns gray and dies. Often the dead tissue is torn away from the healthy portion of the leaf leaving large irregular holes. The water-soaked spots on the fruits are smaller and circular. Lesions are usually superficial, but the injury may permit the entrance of soft-rot organisms. The affected tissue becomes white and may crack open. Control: The following control program is a combination of those used in other areas. 1. Plant resistant varieties. Pickling varieties `Regal', `Royal', `Pioneer', `Express', `Calypso', `Cross Country', `Frontier', `Pioneer', and `Express' have shown tolerance under Washington and Oregon conditions. The use of these varieties is usually sufficient under our conditions. The slicing varieties `Victory', `Bel Aire', `Raider', `Encore', `Poinsett 76', `Slice Nice', `Dasher II', `Turbo', `Quest', and `Sprint-N' are resistant. 2. Stay out of wet, infected fields. 3. Application of fixed copper spray has reduced the spread of the disease, but copper sprays have been reported to cause some stunting and leaf chlorosis in Oregon. Several copper materials are available. Residues: Arasan--considered to be a nonfood use. Captan--seed treatment, considered a nonfood use. Coppers--exempt. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- BACTERIAL WILT Cause: Erwinia tracheiphila, a bacterium, which overwinters in the bodies of the striped and 12-spotted cucumber beetles. In Oregon, the disease occurs on cucumbers occasionally. The bacterium affects only plants belonging to the cucumber family--cucumbers, muskmelons, pumpkins, squashes, gherkins, white gourds, and a number of wild plants. There is a very close relationship between the bacterium and the beetles--if the beetles are eliminated so is the bacterium. The bacterium hibernates in the digestive tract of a few beetles and in the spring finds its way through the feces of the carriers to the young plant. It can enter the plant tissue only through deep wounds such as injuries produced by feeding beetles, or later in the season, following grasshopper invasion. The bacteria are not carried in or on the seed. When beetles chew on affected leaves, which they seem to prefer, their mouth parts become contaminated with the bacteria, which are carried to the next three or four plants on which the beetle feeds. Infection takes place only when there is a film of water sufficient for the pathogen to reach the wound in the inner leaf tissue. The beetles do not migrate in rainy periods; the disease rarely is found where the annual rainfall is over 45 inches or below 18 inches. Optimum average daily temperatures for development of the disease are 52o to 60o F. Symptoms: General wilting of the plant. Infection begins on one or a few leaves which droop suddenly. The disease spreads from the foliage downward into the petioles and stems until the plant has wilted and died. The fruit also wilts and shrivels. Control: Spraying or dusting to control the carrier beetles is effective. See Pacific Northwest Insect Control Handbook. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- CURLY TOP Cause: A virus disease spread by the beet leafhopper and surviving from year to year in perennial weed hosts. Symptoms: Growth is retarded and the older leaves take on a tan-yellow color. Terminal leaves are sometimes darker than normal, and the entire plant is stunted. The few fruits produced are small, of poor quality, and abnormally shaped. Control: 1. Set out more plants than needed and remove diseased plants as soon as they can be detected. 2. Partial shading will discourage movement of the leafhopper vector onto the plants, thus reducing the possibility of infection. 3. There are no known resistant varieties. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- DAMPING-OFF Cause: This disease is caused by the fungus Pythium ultimum, which lives in the soil. It attacks seedlings of many different crops. Symptoms: Seedlings may be attacked before they emerge or after they are up, resulting in gaps and uneven stands. Young plants suddenly wilt and topple over. Water-soaked lesions are apparent on the stems at the soil line. As the seedlings mature, they become resistant to attack. The disease can be a serious problem in cool, wet soils. Control: 1. Delay planting until soil warms so as to increase seedling growth and emergence. 2. Mulch soil to increase soil temperature. 3. Plant shallow to promote quick emergence and growth. 4. Treat seed with captan. 5. Treat seed with Apron FL 1.5 fl oz/cwt (Pacific Northwest states only). 6. Treat seed bed with Ridomil 2E. Broadcast: Apply 4 to 8 pt Ridomil 2E/treated A at planting in 20 to 50 gal of water. Banded: Apply Ridomil 2E in a 7-inch band. Rates are calculated based on row spacing and plant density according to the label. Broadcast and incorporated: Apply 4 to 8 pt of Ridomil 2E/A as a broadcast soil application in 20 to 50 gal of water and incorporate in the top 2 inches of the soil. If beds are used, broadcast and incorporate prior to bedding. Seed Treatment: Apply Anchor at 1.502/cwt seed. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- GUMMY STEM BLIGHT See Squash - Black Rot or Gummy Stem Blight. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- MOSAIC Cause: A virus disease spread by aphids and possibly cucumber beetles. The virus overwinters in the seed of wild cucumber and in wild perennial milkweed, ground cherry, and matrimonial vine. Symptoms: Leaves are markedly mottled and wrinkled with yellow and green blotches and edges cupped downward. Early season infection results in dwarfing of the plants while later infections show the typical mosaic symptoms only on later season growth following infection. The fruit develops raised wartlike bumps with pale, whitish-green areas between, and has a bitter taste. Some varieties of small, later fruits have a pale greenish-white appearance. Control: 1. Remove all infected vines. 2. Remove wild cucumber vines, milkweed, and other susceptible weed hosts to within 1,000 feet of the field if possible. 3. Control aphids by spraying or dusting. 4. In slicing cucumber varieties, `Niagara' is resistant. There is also some tolerance to the virus in the following hybrids--`Burpee', `Surecrop', `Gemini', `Marketmore', and `Sensation'. For pickling cucumbers, the varieties `Calypso', `Picklemech', `Express', `MR-17', `SMR-18', `SMR-58', and `Pioneer' have high tolerance and are recommended for planting. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- NEMATODE (Root-Knot) See Tomato--Nematode (Root-Knot) for a further description of cause and symptoms. Control: Mocap 10E (20 lb/A) or Mocap EC (1 to 1.5 qt/A) in a band 12 to 15 inches wide on the row at or just before planting. Do not use a seed furrow treatment. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- POWDERY MILDEW Cause: A fungus, Erysiphe cichoracearum. Symptoms: At first tiny, white superficial spots appear on the leaves and stem. The spots become powdery white and expand to cover all portions of the plant. Sometimes the mycelium becomes covered with small black spots about the size of a pinhead. Usually the disease occurs in scattered spots in the field. Control: A 2-year rotation out of cucurbits is helpful. The varieties `Dasher II', `Turbo', `Calypso', `Cross Country', `Flurry', `Royal', `Regal', `Quest', `Cherokee', `Marketmore', and `Pioneer' are resistant to powdery mildew. Usually the disease is not severe enough to warrant a spray program. Under greenhouse conditions sulfur dust, Benlate, or wettable sulfur will control the disease. CAUTION-- Sulfur can cause injury to cucumbers, especially when temperature exceeds 85 F. Benlate may be used as a field spray. Benlate Warning: Resistant strains of many fungus pathogens have become troublesome when Benlate is used exclusively in a spray schedule. To reduce the possibility of Benlate resistance, alternate Benlate sprays with sprays of non-benzimitazole fungicides. Field Spray -- Bayleton 50 WP or 50 DF. Apply 2 to 4 oz/A in a minimum of 10 gal of water by ground or 5 gal of water by air. Begin when disease first appears and repeat at 14-day intervals. Do not apply more than 16 oz of Bayleton 50 WP or 50 DF per season. Bayleton will not give control of Sphaeroteca fuliginea. Residues: Benlate--0.125 to .250 lb ai/A ground application only. Tolerance 1.0 ppm. Limitation 0.250 lb ai/A. No time limits. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- ROOT ROT See Squash--Root Rot. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- SCAB Cause: A fungus, Cladosporium cucumerinum, which overwinters in cucumber debris, in cracks of greenhouses, and on the seed. Symptoms: The fungus causes severe injury on the fruit, which can be infected at all stages of growth, but which is particularly susceptible while young. At first a sticky substance is exuded in drops as if the trouble were the result of an insect puncture. Spots then gradually turn gray, become slightly sunken, and enlarge to about inch in diameter. The canker gradually grows darker and the tissue collapses further into the cucumber until a pronounced cavity is formed, which is lined with a dark-green velvety layer of the fruiting fungus. The first symptom on foliage is the appearance of a slightly water-soaked paler-green area between the veins, as well as on them. These spots usually are numerous. Gradually the spots turn gray to white and become angular. The fine veinlets in the spots may remain brown or tan and are distinct against the white background. The dead tissue cracks, breaking away until the whole leaf has a ragged appearance. The spores are disseminated by insects, clothing, tools, and are blown long distances in moist air. Host penetration takes place in less than 9 hours following germination and visible infection in 3 days. Spore production may occur on the fourth day. Control: Use resistant varieties whenever available. Scab-resistant varieties have been developed and include `Dasher II', `Raider', `Encore', `Sprint', `Poinsett 76', `Turbo', `Regal', `Flurry', `Calypso', `Quest', `Gemini', `Marketmore', `Pioneer', `SMR-58', and `SMR-18'. Commercial growers should consult processors for the resistant varieties to be grown. Spray -- 2 to 3 pt. of Bravo 720. Bravo may be applied through overhead irrigation. See label for directions. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- SEED TREATMENT Aids in control of seed decay and damping-off. Thiram--0.75 of 50 percent material/lb of seed. Do not apply more than 2.25 oz actual/100 lb of seed (dry or slurry). Considered to be a nonfood use. Captan .7 to 1.6 oz ai (slurry) or 1.5 to 2.25 oz ai (dry)/100 lb of seed. Considered to be a nonfood use. Apron FL 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed. Anchor at 1.5 fl oz/cwt seed. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- CUCUMBER -- WHITE MOLD Cause: Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, a fungus. White mold is a widespread but relatively unimportant disease of cucumbers grown in the field, but it has caused severe losses of vines and fruit grown in greenhouses. Symptoms: This disease occurs primarily as a stem blight or as a fruit rot. Older vines are most often affected. Following the development of the white cottony mold, the stem dries and becomes withered, and the small sclerotia appear in the rotting tissues. Cucumber fruits affected are watery, soft, and later develop sclerotia. Control: 1. Rotate crops and deep plow to bury sclerotia. 2. Remove infected vines and fruit from the field and destroy. ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ --------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------- This information was adapted by the Oregon State University Extension Service from Oregon and Pacific NW publications as well as other vegetable production guidelines from public institutions in the U.S. and Canada. These guidelines are intended as a general guide for Oregon commercial vegetable producers. Address comments or questions to your County Extension Agent or Dr. N. S. Mansour, Department of Horticulture, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 9733l. --------------------------------------------------- From sacks@notime.enet.dec.com Sun Mar 12 22:14:27 EST 1995 Article: 57980 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!decwrl!pa.dec.com!jac.zko.dec.com!notime.enet.dec.com!sacks From: sacks@notime.enet.dec.com (Gerald Sacks) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seeking "Bittersweet", the plant Date: 10 MAR 95 11:48:17 Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation Lines: 7 Message-ID: <3jpvrg$jtm@jac.zko.dec.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: NOTIME Status: RO X-Status: I'd think twice before planting bittersweet -- it's very invasive and practically impossible to get rid of. That said, I've seen it some catalogs, I think those of the several companies that are owned by Plantron Inc. (Gurney's, Henry Fields, Burgess, etc.). Gerald Sacks sacks@notime.enet.dec.com From cbeyer@world.std.com Sun Mar 12 22:15:19 EST 1995 Article: 57988 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens,rec.gardens.roses Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!world!cbeyer From: cbeyer@world.std.com (Cathy E Beyer) Subject: Re: Rooting hormones ? Why are certain ones "for pro. use only" ??? Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens,rec.gardens.roses Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: <3jfk69$f3p@engage.sps.mot.com> Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 00:03:56 GMT Lines: 36 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:57988 rec.gardens.roses:4234 Status: RO X-Status: Farooq Butt (fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com) wrote: : I would like to know where I can get hold of the real stuff. I would : like my cuttings to get the best chance possible ! [the guy : mentioned HORMODIN ??] Hormodin II is being taken off the market. Perhaps the best ever rooting product is a liquid called Dip-N-Grow. It is sometimes available at local nurseries, and I believe Primary Products will be carrying it mail-order. The cost ranges from $9-11 for a small bottle that lasts a long time. I have bought one of those childrens medicine measurers that consists of a syringe and a special rubber stopper. This enables me to accurately measure out 1/4 teaspoon of Dip-N-Grow to mix with 2 1/2 teaspoons of warm water. I put the solution in a used prescription bottle, dip cuttings for 3 - 10 seconds, then stick them in a rooting medium. Solution should be thrown away after use. My rose study group did an experiment on rooting last summer. Rootone was only a little better than using nothing at all. Hormodin II and Dip-M-Grow both had very good results. The Dip-N-Grow cuttings, however, had slightly stronger roots with better branching. Primary Products has many unusual items for rose growers. They cater to the rosarian who has gone overboard, like those into showing or like those who get so carried away that they put lights in their basement to have roses during winter ;) Primary Products 100E Tower Office Park Woburn, MA 01801 Best of luck with your propagating! Cathy in MA z/5 P.S. Anyone in the New England area who is interested in propagation of roses can attend a workshop at the New England Rose Society in August. From chenaya.strutton@nwcs.org Sun Mar 12 22:15:40 EST 1995 Article: 57993 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!nwcs!chenaya.strutton From: chenaya.strutton@nwcs.org (Chenaya Strutton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Favorite Garden Tools Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 23:31:00 GMT Message-ID: <9503110132078066@nwcs.org> Organization: NWCS Online * Oregon USA Distribution: world References: <3jnu3p$deq@wizard.uark.edu> Lines: 15 Status: RO X-Status: BG>From: bruce@resumix.portal.com (Bruce Gorham) >My favorite tool is something called a U-Bar. >Used for loosening soil in established raised >French Intensive type beds. There's three sizes of these listed for sale in the Spring Territorial Seed Company catalog on page 82. They call them "Raised Bed Diggers". Territorial Seed Company 20 Palmer Avenue Cottage Grove, OR 97424 U.S.A. =Cheryl --- * OLX 2.1 TD * Someone, please, stop me before I plant again! From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:15:55 EST 1995 Article: 57995 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Yellow Leaves on Impatients Message-ID: <1995Mar8.170535.39904@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 8 Mar 95 17:05:35 -0600 References: <3jiqce$hli@rover.ucs.ualberta.ca> <1995Mar7.193325.39844@cobra.uni.edu> <3jl520$r38@rover.ucs.ualberta.ca> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 20 Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jl520$r38@rover.ucs.ualberta.ca>, nadine@seymour.ucs.ualberta.ca (Nadine Leenders) writes: > klier@cobra.uni.edu wrote: > > : ...Try a very light dose (ca. 1/4 recommended strength) > : of a flowering plant fertilizer... something in the 5-10-10 range, > : not high nitrogen. See if the frequency of yellowing leaves is > : reduced in the next week or so. > > Yes, they are in "market packs" and in a seed starting mix. They might > be root bound, but until the weather improves (27 below is kind of cold) > and I can put them out in a cold frame, they have to stay in those packs. > Jiffy mix and similar soilless seed starting mixes don't have a whole lot of nutrients in them. Try a light fertilization, and see if things pick up. I sympathize on the -27o (C right? I hope???) If we were lucky here, we *might* have made to +27oF today... I still have more snow to shovel from the last storm! Kay klier@cobra.uni.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:16:01 EST 1995 Article: 57996 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: seedlings for kids Message-ID: <1995Mar8.171336.39906@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 8 Mar 95 17:13:36 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 17 Status: RO X-Status: In article , jgolden@cbmse.nrl.navy.mil (Joel Golden) writes: > What's a good plant for a class of kids to sprout seeds? What age, and what are you going to do with them? My picks for the younger kids would be corn and common beans: fast and cheap. Lettuce and dwarf marigolds for kids who can handle smaller seeds, and want something you can "do something with" (like eat, or watch flower). Radish is good, too, as are any of the seeds sold for salad sprouts: mung bean, alfalfa, radish, fenugreek.... If you've got the time, and a few bucks for seed, I'd suggest sensitive plant, Mimosa pudica (try Parks). It's a sure-fire attention getter... Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From sean.ohara@ucop.edu Sun Mar 12 22:16:06 EST 1995 Article: 57997 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!usenet From: "Sean A. O'Hara" Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Where's a good place to get 'Hosta's' (mail order) Date: Wed, 08 Mar 95 15:53:29 PDT Organization: University of California, Berkeley Lines: 29 Message-ID: <3jlgi6$sc2@agate.berkeley.edu> References: <3j5i8k$cb4@news.bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: largo.ucop.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII X-Newsreader: NEWTNews & Chameleon -- TCP/IP for MS Windows from NetManage Status: RO X-Status: > Testbed (testbed@longbeach.mfg.stratus.com) wrote: > : Anyone out there have any recomendations? > > : please post to this group since my reader won't accept e-mail. > > : Thanks. This is not in Mass (as the original post requested), but if you really want Hostas, I'd certainly get ahold of the following catalog: Plant Delights Nursery, 9241 Sauls Rd, Raleigh, NC 27603; (919)772-4794 Their current catalog, entitled 'America Held Hosta', lists 150 different Hostas as well as a dizzying array of other wonderful plants in its 110 pages. The prices of the catalog is (accroding to the cover) $2000 or 10 stamps. There is also a disclaimer on the cover: 'Warning: The Horticultural General has determined that opening this catalog may cause anxiety, hysteria, and excessive drooling' - which has been all too true in my own case!! (As you can probably see, these folks are true plant nuts, and their selection of plants certainly attests to this fact. I strongly suggest that if you have tendancies towards plant lunacy, definitely order this catalog!) H O R T U L U S A P T U S ('gardens', 'suited to their purpose') Sean A. O'Hara 710 Jean Street, Oakland, CA 94610-1459 sean.ohara@ucop.edu (510) 987-0577 From bob@interstate.net Sun Mar 12 22:16:13 EST 1995 Article: 57998 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!interactive.net!interstate.net!bob From: bob@interstate.net (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Buffalo Grass Date: 10 Mar 1995 17:19:33 GMT Organization: Interstate Networking Corporation -- Kansas City, Missouri, USA Lines: 639 Message-ID: <3jq1n5$ac1@mindcrime.interstate.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: empire.interstate.net X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: D416B/Dave Daulton/X4410/D/B (djd@cbddo1.cb.att.com) wrote: : I am working on a proposal to turn some acres around my work site : into natural plantings--to save my company some $$$s, and our : environment some pollution. : I am working from a proposal that was accepted at another site, in : Naperville, Illinois. However, that proposal uses a lot of buffalo grass, : and from past dicussions on rec.gardens, I seem to recall that : bufallo grass might not do well back here in Columbus, Ohio (too : wet). : Is that true? If so, is there anything comparable that would work here? I don't have an answer for you, but following's a list of published references to Buffalo grass --------------------------------------------------------------------- NAL ONLINE CATALOG - - - - - - - - - ISIS -PUBLICATIONS WITH SELECTED KEYWORDS YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (5) NAL CALL NO: DISS 70-25,561 Author: Sorensen, Kenneth Alan, 1944- Title: Factors influencing the biology of the buffalograss webworm, Surattha indentella Kearfott, (Lepidoptera: Pyralidae) / by Kenneth Alan Sorensen. -- Publisher: 1970. Description: iv, 125 leaves ; 21 cm. Note: Bibliography: leaves 92-94. Note: Photocopy. Ann Arbor, Mich. : University Microfilms, 1971. Note: Thesis (Ph.D.)--Kansas State University, 1970. Other Loc: DNAL DISS 70-25,561 2 NAL ONLINE CATALOG - - - - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - - - - CATALOG CARD YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (2/5) NAL CALL NO: 100 W99 (1) no.293 Author: Beetle, Alan A. 1913- (Alan Ackerman), Title: Buffalograss, native of the shortgrass plains / by A.A. Beetle. Publisher: Laramie, Wyo. : University of Wyoming, Agricultural Experiment Station, 1950. Description: 31 p. : ill., map ; 21 cm. Series: Bulletin / University of Wyoming, Agricultural Experiment Station ; 293 Note: Bibliography: p. 25-31. LC Subject: Grasses -- Wyoming. LC Subject: Grasses -- Varieties. -- Wyoming NAL ONLINE CATALOG - - - - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - - - - CATALOG CARD YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (3/5) 3 NAL CALL NO: 100 K13S (1) no.400 Author: Launchbaugh, John L. Title: Grazing reseeded pastures : buffalograss, western wheatgrass, intermediate wheatgrass, on lowlands at Hays, Kansas / by John L. Launchbaugh. Publisher: Manhattan, Kan. : Agricultural Experiment Station, Kansas State College of Agriculture and Applied Science, 1958. Description: 24, [1] p. : ill. ; 23cm. Series: Bulletin ; 400 Note: Bibliography: p. [25]. Note: "Contribution no. 126, Fort Hays Branch, Hays, Kansas"--T.p. LC Subject: Grazing -- Kansas. 4 NAL ONLINE CATALOG - - - - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - - - - CATALOG CARD YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (4/5) NAL CALL NO: 100 Ok4 (4) no.109 Author: Ahring, Robert M. 1928- (Robert Morris), Title: The management of buffalograss Buchloe dactyloides (Nutt.) Engelm, for seed production in Oklahoma / Robert M. Ahring. Publisher: [Stillwater, Okla.] : Oklahoma State University, Experiment Station, 1964. Description: 20 p. : ill. ; 23 cm. Series: Technical bulletin ; no. T-109 Note: Bibliography: p. 19-20. Note: "The research reported herein was done under Agricultural Research Service Project C7-3 and Olkahoma Agricultural Experiment Station Project 784"--p. 5. 5 NAL ONLINE CATALOG - - - - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - - - - CATALOG CARD YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (5/5) NAL CALL NO: 100 N27 (3) no.180 Author: Weihing, John Lawson, 1921- Title: False smut of buffalograss / John L. Weihing. Publisher: Lincoln, Neb. : University of Nebraska, College of Agriculture, Agricultural Experiment Station, 1956. Description: 26 p. : ill. ; 23 cm. Series: Research bulletin / University of Nebraska, College of Agriculture, Agricultural Experiment Station ; 180 Note: Bibliography: p. 26. Note: "A portion of a thesis presented to the Graduate College of the University of Nebraska in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosohphy"--p. 5. w/buffalograss Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - KEYWORDS SEARCHED 1. buffalograss 32 ENTRIES 1 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (1/32) NAL CALL NO: SB193 F59 Author: Mowrey, D.P. ArticleTitle: Steer performance with continuous grazing or first-last grazing on buffalograss. Source Title: Proceedings of the Forage and Grassland Conference. 1986. Pages: p. 47-51. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: steers. CAB Subject: performance. CAB Subject: grazing systems. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: ranges. 2 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (2/32) NAL CALL NO: 64.8 C883 Author: Horst, G.L. ArticleTitle: Seasonal and species variation in baseline functions for determining crop water stress indices in turfgrass. Source Title: Crop science. Sept/Oct 1989. v. 29 (5) Pages: p. 1227-1232. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: cynodon dactylon. CAB Subject: stenotaphrum secundatum. CAB Subject: festuca arundinacea. CAB Subject: lawns and turf. 3 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (3/32) NAL CALL NO: 100 C12CAG Author: Wu, L. ArticleTitle: Buffalograss as a low-maintenance turf. Source Title: California agriculture - California Agricultural Experiment Station. Mar/Apr 1989. v. 43 (2) Pages: p. 23-25. ill. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: cultivars. CAB Subject: lawns and turf. CAB Subject: improvement. CAB Subject: seed production. CAB Subject: color. 4 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (4/32) NAL CALL NO: SB476 G7 Author: Riordan, T. ArticleTitle: Buffalograss. Source Title: Grounds maintenance. Feb 1991. v. 26 (2) Pages: p. 12-14. ill., maps. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: cultural methods. 5 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (5/32) NAL CALL NO: 64.8 C883 Author: Engelke, M.C. ArticleTitle: Registration of 'Prairie' buffalograss. Source Title: Crop science. Nov/Dec 1990. v. 30 (6) Pages: p. 1360-1361. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: cultivars. CAB Subject: registration. CAB Subject: agronomic characteristics. CAB Subject: improved varieties. CAB Subject: plant breeding. 6 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (6/32) NAL CALL NO: 64.8 C883 Author: Huff, D.R. ArticleTitle: Sex ratios and inheritance of anther and stigma color in diploid buffalograss. Source Title: Crop science. Mar/Apr 1991. v. 31 (2) Pages: p. 328-332. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: inheritance. CAB Subject: diploidy. CAB Subject: sex ratio. CAB Subject: sex determination. 7 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (7/32) NAL CALL NO: 156.65 P69 Author: Engelke, M.C. ArticleTitle: Prairie buffalograss. Source Title: Plant patent - United States Patent and Trademark Office. May 28, 1991. (7539) Pages: 4 p. plates. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: lawns and turf. CAB Subject: cultivars. CAB Subject: patents. CAB Subject: stolons. 9 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (9/32) NAL CALL NO: 60.18 SO8 Author: Wu, L. ArticleTitle: Buffalograss turf performance and management in shade. Source Title: California turfgrass culture - California University, Berkeley, Cooperative Extension Service. 1990. v. 40 (1/4) Pages: p. 2-4. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: lawns and turf. CAB Subject: grasses. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: management. CAB Subject: shade. 10 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (10/32) NAL CALL NO: 290.9 AM32T Author: Hilton, R.R. ArticleTitle: Tines for mechanically lifting plugs of buffalograss turf. Source Title: Transactions of the ASAE. July/Aug 1991. v. 34 (4) Pages: p. 1642-1646. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: harvesters. CAB Subject: lawns and turf. CAB Subject: lifting. CAB Subject: tines. CAB Subject: vegetative propagation. 12 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (12/32) NAL CALL NO: QH540 J6 Author: McFarland, M.L. ArticleTitle: Selective-placement burial of drilling fluids. II. Effects on buffalograss and fourwing saltbush. Source Title: Journal of environmental quality. Jan/Mar 1992. v. 21 (1) Pages: p. 140-144. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: atriplex canescens. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: oilfields. CAB Subject: waste water. CAB Subject: waste disposal. 13 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (13/32) NAL CALL NO: 450 AM36 Author: Huff, D.R. ArticleTitle: Distribution and inheritance of inconstant sex forms in natural populations of dioecious buffalograss (Buchloe dactyloides). Source Title: American journal of botany. Feb 1992. v. 79 (2) Pages: p. 207-215. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: sex differences. CAB Subject: genetic variation. CAB Subject: geographical distribution. 14 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (14/32) NAL CALL NO: S544.3 K2K3 Author: Leuthold, L. ArticleTitle: Buffalograss lawns. Source Title: MF - Cooperative Extension Service, Kansas State University, Manhattan. Apr 1991. (658,rev.) Pages: 4 p. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: planting. CAB Subject: fertilizers. CAB Subject: application date. CAB Subject: pest control. Geographic: kansas. 15 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (15/32) NAL CALL NO: 290.9 AM32P Author: Hilton, R.R. ArticleTitle: A mechanical turf plugger for buffalograss. Source Title: Paper - American Society of Agricultural Engineers. Summer 1990. (90-1034) Pages: 13 p. Note: Paper presented at the "1990 International Summer Meeting," June 24-27, 1990, Columbus, Ohio. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: transplanting. CAB Subject: mechanization. 16 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (16/32) NAL CALL NO: 60.18 UN33 Author: Bauer, B. ArticleTitle: Introducing an improved native: '609' buffalograss. Source Title: USGA Green Section record. Jan/Feb 1992. v. 30 (1) Pages: p. 20. CAB Subject: lawns and turf. CAB Subject: golf courses. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: nurseries. 18 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (18/32) NAL CALL NO: SB1 H6 Author: McCarty, L.B. ArticleTitle: Buffalograss tolerance to postemergence herbicides. Source Title: HortScience. Aug 1992. v. 27 (8) Pages: p. 898-899. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: lawns and turf. CAB Subject: weed control. CAB Subject: chemical control. CAB Subject: 2,4-d. CAB Subject: dicamba. 19 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (19/32) NAL CALL NO: 60.18 J82 Author: Olson, K.C. ArticleTitle: Shortgrass range vegetation and steer growth response to intensive-early stocking. Source Title: Journal of range management. Mar 1993. v. 46 (2) Pages: p. 127-132. Note: Includes references. CAB Subject: steers. CAB Subject: grazing trials. CAB Subject: beef cattle. CAB Subject: stocking rate. CAB Subject: grazing systems. 20 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (20/32) NAL CALL NO: 100 T31P Author: Engelke, M.C. ArticleTitle: 1991 Update to the buffalograss regional trial planted at TAES-Dallas. Source Title: PR - Texas Agricultural Experiment Station. 1991. (4887) Pages: p. 30-31. Note: In the series analytic: Texas turfgrass research--1991. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: variety trials. CAB Subject: cultivars. CAB Subject: lawns and turf. CAB Subject: phenotypic stability. 21 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (21/32) NAL CALL NO: 100 T31P Author: Engelke, M.C. ArticleTitle: 'Prairie' buffalograss response to selected pre- and postemergence herbicides. Source Title: PR - Texas Agricultural Experiment Station. 1991. (4917) Pages: p. 98-100. Note: In the series analytic: Texas turfgrass research--1991. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: herbicides. CAB Subject: phytotoxicity. CAB Subject: weed control. CAB Subject: application date. 22 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (22/32) NAL CALL NO: 100 T31P Author: Engelke, M.C. ArticleTitle: 1992 Update to the buffalograss regional trial planted at TAES-Dallas. Source Title: PR - Texas Agricultural Experiment Station. Sept 1992. (4981) Pages: p. 10-11. Note: In the series analytic: Texas turfgrass research--1992. CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: variety trials. CAB Subject: color. CAB Subject: cultivars. 24 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (24/32) NAL CALL NO: 442.8 Z8 Author: Huff, D.R. ArticleTitle: RAPD variation within and among natural populations of outcrossing buffalograss [Buchloe dactyloides (Nutt.) Engelm.]. Source Title: Theoretical and applied genetics. Sept 1993. v. 86 (8) Pages: p. 927-934. Note: Includes references CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: genetic markers. CAB Subject: genetic variation. CAB Subject: population genetics. 25 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (25/32) NAL CALL NO: SB1 H6 Author: Fry, J. ArticleTitle: Seeding month and seed soaking affect buffalograss establishment. Source Title: HortScience : a publication of the American Society for Horticultural Science. Sept 1993. v. 28 (9) Pages: p. 902-903. Note: Includes references CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: seed treatment. CAB Subject: soaking. CAB Subject: imbibition. 26 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (26/32) NAL CALL NO: 81 SO12 Author: Wu, L. ArticleTitle: Identifying buffalograss [Buchloe dactyloides (Nutt.) Engelm.] cultivar breeding lines using random amplified polymorphic DNA (RAPD) markers. Source Title: Journal of the American Society for Horticultural Science. Jan 1994. v. 119 (1) Pages: p. 126-130. Note: Includes references CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: cultivars. CAB Subject: genetic analysis. 27 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (27/32) NAL CALL NO: 64.8 C883 Author: Taliaferro, C.M. ArticleTitle: Registration of 'Bison' buffalograss. Source Title: Crop science. Jan/Feb 1994. v. 34 (1) Pages: p. 304-305. Note: Includes references CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: cultivars. CAB Subject: registration. CAB Subject: cold resistance. CAB Subject: winter hardiness. CAB Subject: lawns and turf. 28 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (28/32) NAL CALL NO: 451 T63B Author: Yin, T. ArticleTitle: Effects of exogenous growth regulators and a gibberellin inhibitor on sex expression and growth form in buffalograss (Buchloe dactyloides), and their ecological significance. Source Title: Bulletin of the Torrey Botanical Club. Apr/June 1994. v. 121 (2) Pages: p. 170-179. Note: Includes references CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: plant growth regulators. CAB Subject: paclobutrazol. 29 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (29/32) NAL CALL NO: QK867 J67 Author: Wu, L. ArticleTitle: Salt tolerance and salt uptake in diploid and polyploid buffalograsses (Buchloe dactyloides). Source Title: Journal of plant nutrition. 1994. v. 17 (11) Pages: p. 1905-1928. Note: Includes references CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: salt tolerance. CAB Subject: sodium chloride. CAB Subject: sodium. CAB Subject: potassium. 30 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (30/32) NAL CALL NO: SB1 H6 Author: Browning, S.J. \u University of Nebraska, Lincoln, NE. ArticleTitle: Heritability estimates of turf-type characteristics in buffalograss. Source Title: HortScience : a publication of the American Society for Horticultural Science. Mar 1994. v. 29 (3) Pages: p. 204-205. Note: Includes references CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: lawns and turf. CAB Subject: drought resistance. CAB Subject: cultivars. 31 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (31/32) NAL CALL NO: 420 K13 Author: Baxendale, F.P. \u University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Lincoln, Nebraska. ArticleTitle: Tridiscus sporoboli and Trionymus sp. (Homoptera: Pseudococcidae): potential new mealybug pests of buffalograss turf. Source Title: Journal of the Kansas Entomological Society. Apr 1994. v. 67 (2) Pages: p. 169-172. Note: Includes references CAB Subject: buchloe dactyloides. CAB Subject: pest resistance. 32 Journal Article Citation- - - - - - - ISIS - - - - - - - - - INDEX CARD CATALOG YOU CHOSE: buffalograss (32/32) NAL CALL NO: 4 Am34P Author: Rogler, G.A. ArticleTitle: Relative palatabilities of grasses under cultivation on the northern Great Plains. Source Title: Journal of the American Society of Agronomy. June 1944. v. 36 (6) Pages: p. 487-496. Note: Includes references CAB Subject: gramineae. CAB Subject: palatability. CAB Subject: strains. CAB Subject: grazing intensity. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Batson L 39 12 14 N 94 33 16 W bob@interstate.net Kansas City bob.batson@sound.com USDA zone 5 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Under the most controlled conditions, the experimental apparatus will do exactly as it pleases. From nancyr@cc.usu.edu Sun Mar 12 22:18:55 EST 1995 Article: 58028 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.cs.utah.edu!cc.usu.edu!nancyr From: nancyr@cc.usu.edu (Nancy Roberts) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Online WWW tree tour Message-ID: <1995Mar10.114332.44279@cc.usu.edu> Date: 10 Mar 95 11:43:31 MDT Organization: USU Computer Services, Academic Services Office Lines: 12 Status: RO X-Status: The Idaho State University WWW server has the campus TreeWalk online. There are several close up pictures and longer-range shots of trees and bushes that are on the campus. The URL is: http://www.isu.edu/isutour/treewalk/treewalk1.html ISU is in South Eastern Idaho, probably a zone 5 region. Nancy ISU Alum :-) nancyr@cc.usu.edu From rshiell@mcube.com Sun Mar 12 22:19:01 EST 1995 Article: 58030 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcomsv!uucp3.netcom.com!mcube.com!rshiell Subject: Snail Soup Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: rshiell@mcube.com Date: Fri, 10 Mar 95 10:07:49 EST Message-ID: <7786207284203@mcube.com> Organization: Desert Jewel On-Line Mall Lines: 37 Status: RO X-Status: All the Winter rains in the Southwest have produced a bumper crop of escargots in gardens. Take advantage of the abundance and make snail soup! (not for human consumption): SNAIL SOUP: In a bucket mix about a cup or two of a STRONG solution of any of the following (to later be diluted and poured in the garden): Pure Vinegar, Miracid, 5% Iron Solution (an acid amendment), or even Baking Soda (if your soil is too acid already) Harvest snails and deposit in bucket with solution. Snails will expire. Dilute liquid and pour out in garden. Reserve expired snails. Dig several shallow holes. Divide and distribute snails into holes. Cover holes loosely overnight with boards. The following morning, when slugs have entered the holes to feed, backfill. Sorry if I grossed anyone out. I've never seen so many snails as there are this year. Calls for drastic countermeasures. Richard Shiell, ASLA Bakersfield, CA RShiell@mcube.com Old gardeners don't die, they just go to seed. -- Mainframes, Minis & Micros | Running MajorBBS and Internet! 5630 District Blvd. #114 | Desert Jewel BBS & OnLine Mall Bakersfield, CA 93313 | Discounted Hardware & Software LandLine == 800-949-1959 | BBS == 805-397-2063 14.4 n-8-1 From LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU Sun Mar 12 22:19:09 EST 1995 Article: 58031 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!cronkite.ocis.temple.edu!VM.TEMPLE.EDU!LEAPDJWV From: LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: seedlings for kids Date: Fri, 10 Mar 95 13:41:13 EST Organization: Temple University Lines: 37 Message-ID: <1735DC080S86.LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU> References: <1995Mar8.171336.39906@cobra.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: vm.temple.edu Status: RO X-Status: In article <1995Mar8.171336.39906@cobra.uni.edu> klier@cobra.uni.edu writes: >> What's a good plant for a class of kids to sprout seeds? > >What age, and what are you going to do with them? Are you aware of the Grow Lab program. It's a learning center for the class based on gardening. Lessons, teacher's aids and information well prepared. My Garden Club sponsors a number of them in inner city as well as schools in the 'burbs with great interest. E-Mail directly if you would like more information. It's a national program and I'm sure there are programs near by. I'll suggest a different gardening classroom project: Bird House gourds. Plant the seeds in the spring, outside of course. Watch them grow, some students or others who visit the school during the summer could make and record observations. In the fall they could be harvested and allowed to cure over winter. In the spring they could be decorated and hung for bird houses. The number of different classes and courses which could be involved offers the chance to extend a learning experience well beyond just watching a seed germinate. I made this suggestion to a student attending an environmental educational gathering. He took it to a middle where he was student teaching and last I heard a faculty team was considering it as an introduction to a new nature studies program. The question which started our discussion was similar to "How can I use gardening as an instructional format." Dave Vanderhoof From sacks@notime.enet.dec.com Sun Mar 12 22:19:24 EST 1995 Article: 58034 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!decwrl!pa.dec.com!jac.zko.dec.com!notime.enet.dec.com!sacks From: sacks@notime.enet.dec.com (Gerald Sacks) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Tatume (Mexican summer squash) Date: 10 MAR 95 14:21:54 Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation Lines: 6 Message-ID: <3jq8vc$5g8@jac.zko.dec.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: NOTIME Status: RO X-Status: I'm seeking information on tatume, a Mexican summer squash. It's available from Horticultural Enterprises (P.O. Box 810082, Dallas, TX 75381-0082). Is it a bush type or a vining type? Will in grow in the north? Gerald Sacks sacks@notime.enet.dec.com From brownjm@mi.net Sun Mar 12 22:19:33 EST 1995 Article: 58036 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!scratchy.mi.net!brownjm From: brownjm@mi.net (Joanne Brown) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: WWW - Ezine featuring article of software for gardening. Date: Sat, 11 Mar 95 17:07:52 GMT Organization: Maritime Internet Services Lines: 23 Message-ID: <3jsht3$bl1@scratchy.mi.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: brownjm.mi.net X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #3 Status: RO X-Status: The Computer Paper, a Canadian gem for consumer-oriented information has a web site featuring current and back issues. Their January issue featured an article titled 'Gardening on Computer' written my Martin Waterman. You can check out this article as well as many other computer-related information by pointing your web browser to the following URL : http://www.wimsey.com/tcp/ Hopefully it will answer many of the questions I see in here about gardening software. Best wishes, Joanne Brown, (who is really upset at the city works crew for digging up a corner of her lawn this winter, Bah!) Joanne Brown Say Conductor, Saint John, NB When Do We Get To Canada Margaritaville? *********************************************************************** From billyfish@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:19:48 EST 1995 Article: 58039 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: billyfish@aol.com (BillyFish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Wheel hoes/Hula hoes Date: 11 Mar 1995 14:08:11 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 13 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jsser$707@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: billyfish@aol.com (BillyFish) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: RO X-Status: I have been watching the wheel hoe thread for some time. I remember seeing some TV ads for "Garden Weasels," I think. Is that what is meant by a wheel hoe. My favorite how for the last few years has been th Hula Hoe. It consists of a horizontal blade connected to the handle by some strapping. The idea is to have this blade travel just below the surface where it can cut the roots of any weeds. Are there any experts that can compare these devices and give us their opinions? William Buchman From pld@fc.hp.com Sun Mar 12 22:19:52 EST 1995 Article: 58040 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!hplextra!news.dtc.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!pld From: pld@fc.hp.com (Paul Dineen) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Use hot water to kill weeds? Date: 10 Mar 1995 19:39:33 GMT Organization: HP WRCO, Fort Collins, CO Lines: 45 Message-ID: <3jq9tl$lbf@tadpole.fc.hp.com> References: <1995Mar6.201614.39776@cobra.uni.edu> Reply-To: pld@fc.hp.com NNTP-Posting-Host: hpfcpld.fc.hp.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0.8] Status: RO X-Status: Jeffrey S. Ertel (jse2y@darwin.clas.Virginia.EDU) wrote: : What Kay suggests will work with some plants but not others. : Some of the groundcovers that spread with rhizomes will not be : able to come up through the fabrics and those that spread with : stolons will not be able to root through it. I don't like to : use fabrics with groundcovers. If you have a current weed : problem you could use soil solarization to sterilize the area : prior to planting the groundcover. : Rototill the area and then cover it with clear plastic for : about six weeks during the summer. You need to bury the edges : of the plastic around the edge of the bed. With the windy : conditions you describe, you will need to use a fairly heavy : grade of plastic and even then you may need to replace it a : couple of times if it rips. I have made repairs with clear : packing tape. : What kind of groundcover were you thinking of using? I weed situation in this area *seems* to be under control. We've cut holes for ~30 plants we've planted in this (950 sf) area, without weeds poking out much at all. I'm concerned because weeds were running wild in that area before we got around to developing that part of the lot (relatively new construction). I'm worried about The Return of the Killer Weeds if I take up the fabric and bark. Weeds are under pretty good control throughout the lot not what we have no more bare dirt areas left - maybe that was causing the weed infestation. But, I still wonder how many dormant weed seeds are still down there. I'll think/ask more about the suggestions I've rcd so far, but my current inclination is to take up the fabric in sections and plant ground covers. Since it's a large area and I have lots of other work to do in the yard, I might spread the task of planting these groundcovers over about 3 years. Here's what groundcovers I can remember planting in this area so far: o yellow & pink iceplant (like how this is dense and crowds out weeds!) o creeping potentilla (not dense: quickly shoots out long stems low to the ground. looks good, but not as good a weed barrier) o sweet woodruff (for looks, not good barrier) o dragon's blood sedum I planted this stuff last spring, and didn't buy tons of it, so it currently covers a very small percentage of the area. From down2erth@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:20:01 EST 1995 Article: 58042 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: down2erth@aol.com (Down2Erth) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: RE: NEEM Date: 10 Mar 1995 14:48:50 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 6 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jqaf2$jir@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <4339.2463.uupcb@dazed.charleston.sc.us> Reply-To: down2erth@aol.com (Down2Erth) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: RO X-Status: I am an organic landscape gardener and I'm considering using NEEM on a serious leafminer infestation of a client's arborvitae hedge. We've tried all the usual cultural practices (fertiliaer, mulch, irrigation) with no success. I am confused because both Gardens Alive and Peaceful Valley Farm Supply claim that it will not kill beneficial insects, yet it kills many types of destructive insects. This seems too good to be true..... From down2erth@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:20:04 EST 1995 Article: 58043 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: down2erth@aol.com (Down2Erth) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Deer in my garden!! Date: 10 Mar 1995 14:57:05 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 10 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jqauh$jl9@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: down2erth@aol.com (Down2Erth) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: RO X-Status: I am an organic landscape gardener, and I have used Hinder with EXCELLENT results. One of our clients FEEDS the deer in her yard, and before we started working for her she was only able to grow daffodils and daylilies. She loves flowers and wanted lots of perennials - so we planted up her yard and spray Hinder once a week. The deer walk through the flower beds ( we see their footprints everywhere) but they've never eaten anything! You can only use it above 40 degrees, so in the winter shrubs have to be caged. The active ingredient is ammonium soaps of fatty acids, so it is considered organic, but DON'T use it on anything edible. From bob@interstate.net Sun Mar 12 22:20:07 EST 1995 Article: 58044 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!winternet.com!interstate.net!bob From: bob@interstate.net (Bob Batson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Going NATIVE Date: 11 Mar 1995 19:25:44 GMT Organization: Interstate Networking Corporation -- Kansas City, Missouri, USA Lines: 20 Message-ID: <3jstfo$oov@mindcrime.interstate.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: empire.interstate.net X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: Steve Graf (graf@aldus.NorthNet.org) wrote: : I have recently developed an interest in species azaleas of which I have : 2 that grow very well in my garden. I would be interested if anyone could : tell me where I might purchase native "species" azaleas suitable for USDA : zone 4/5. Lots of nurseries seem to have hybrids but not species azaleas :(. : Especially great would be locations in Quebec, Vermont, or New York State. : Thanks in advance. Steve Wayside Gardens sells a few. Contact them at Hodges, SC 29695-0001. -- -------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Batson L 39 12 14 N 94 33 16 W bob@interstate.net Kansas City bob.batson@sound.com USDA zone 5 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Under the most controlled conditions, the experimental apparatus will do exactly as it pleases. From greg@news.IntNet.net Sun Mar 12 22:20:13 EST 1995 Article: 58045 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news.IntNet.net!greg From: greg@news.IntNet.net (Greg Kras) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: WWW Florist Date: 11 Mar 1995 19:21:47 GMT Organization: Intelligence Network Online, Inc. Lines: 8 Message-ID: <3jst8b$bk0@zeus.IntNet.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: aries.intnet.net X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: I don't know if anyone of the people here are interested but there is a new flower store on the web. Check out the web site at... http://www.intnet.net/Floral -- Greg K. From racoonia@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:20:16 EST 1995 Article: 58046 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!nwlink.com!baja.pacificrim.net!ppp34.pacificrim.net!racoonia From: Linda Copes Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: The course we all must take? Date: 11 Mar 1995 19:50:40 GMT Organization: Project NatureConnect Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jsuug$a6a@baja.pacificrim.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp34.pacificrim.net X-Newsreader: Nuntius Version 1.2 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 18:56:47 GMT Status: RO X-Status: THE COURSE WE MUST TAKE? Recently, a group of people of mixed ages, occupations and nationalities participated in a free Project NatureConnect training course via email. At the conclusion of the program an educational psychologist said: "This is the course that every civilized person will be required to take if we are to reverse our runaway problems" He said this because he saw the profound benefits that result from learning how to deeply reconnect with nature, even in your backyard. The process makes spirits rise and apathy su bside. People learn to actively participate in making their lives more worthwhile and resolving problems. Here's why the unique program works so well: Irrefutable studies confirm that, daily, our excessive separation from nature creates sensory and emotional stress. It is this stress that gives birth to the insatiable wants that underlie most of our personal, social and environmental problems. The NatureConnect course reverses this destructive process. It devours our stress from nature disconnection by tangently reconnecting us with nature. The connection intensifies nature's wisdom, beauty and spirit with in us. Our stress and wants become joy and energy, that improves our relationships at all levels. The validity of this biologic process has been documented and is undeniable. Anybody who has enjoyed nature knows that connecting with nature inherently rejuvenates people. The psychologist noted that nature connected people(s) don't propagate our greed, war and environmental degradation; our crime, dependencies and medical and mental and health disorders. He said "Similarly, this course's nature connecting activities reverse these problems. Participants learn how to use the activities and teach others to use them. They help nature help them form balanced relationships". The course is called "How To Let Earth Teach: Nature activities for wellness, spirit and deeper learning". Its participants learn thoughtful ways to satisfy our deepest loves, wants and spirit. They master hands-on education, counseling and mental health skills that tap the (IR(Jhigher power(IS(J found in nature(IU(Js creation process. They become skilled in letting tangible contact with nature in people and places nurture responsibility, warm interpersonal relationships and ecological literacy. The refreshing 6-12 week program starts anytime. Through its self guiding training manual, it is available independently and/or through workshops and E-mail. Academic and continuing education credit is optionally offered through cooperating universities. Internships and facilitator positions are available. Here's a sample of what people say about the course: "The course presents an accessible, simple, enjoyable and extremely powerful way that love for all life may heal the deep wounds that we suffer." Elisabeth Ryland, San Bernadino "The program provides timely sound theory and well grounded experience. In our struggle to find connectedness and meaning it allows the natural world to nurture a responsible growing edge of culture." Bill Hammond, Director of Environmental Education, Lee County, FL The Project NatureConnect training course is a subsidized program of the Department of Integrated Ecology at the University of Global Education, a United Nations non-governmental organization. The course may be taken by anybody for any reason, as well as incorporated into most curriculums, degree programs and professions. We encourage interested schools and training programs to sponsor the course or offer it as an option to their students. I am one of its supporters and I am trying to connect with people who want to benefit from taking the course or further its contributions to all of life. Thank you for your interest in this topic. For full information, contact the course instructor, Michael J. Cohen, Ed.D. at: MJCohen@AOL.com or write Project NatureConnect, Box 1605, Friday Harbor, WA 98250. Linda Copes From rcvaiden@prairienet.org Sun Mar 12 22:20:25 EST 1995 Article: 58048 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!prairienet.org!rcvaiden From: rcvaiden@prairienet.org (Robert C. Vaiden) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seeking "Bittersweet", the plant Date: 10 Mar 1995 21:46:35 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 27 Message-ID: <3jqhbr$mh9@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: Reply-To: rcvaiden@prairienet.org (Robert C. Vaiden) NNTP-Posting-Host: firefly.prairienet.org Status: RO X-Status: Yes...I remember a favorite fall activity was to go into the country and cut a few branches of bittersweet...I've always wanted some myself...the wild populations where I grew up were plowed under and built over years ago. Just last fall I acquired 2 from a friend-he says they are endangered (??) -at least in Illinois. Proper name is Celastrus scandens. They can be invasive...but they're neat plants. You should be aware that you need 2 plants...male and female. (Mine came with red and blue rubber bands...in case one dies, I know which one to replace!!). Bob Vaiden In a previous article, billyz@primenet.com (BillyZee) says: >Growing up in the Midwest, there was a plant which grew along the country >fencerows we called Bittersweet- sorry, I don't know the botanical term. >It is used as an autumnn decoration and has small bright orange berries >that bloom out of a tan pod. Branches are 1-2 feet long. I have been >searching for plantstock of this for months to plant in Northern >California. No luck. Does ANYBODY have any information on what this is >really called and where I can acquire stock or seed? Thanks for any help. >E-mail billyz@primenet.com > From seremjia@it.uwp.edu Sun Mar 12 22:20:29 EST 1995 Article: 58049 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.uwp.edu!it!seremjia From: seremjia@it.uwp.edu (Peggy Seremjian) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want invasive plants Date: 11 Mar 1995 20:07:02 GMT Organization: University of Wisconsin - Parkside Lines: 8 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jsvt6$ktq@cs.uwp.edu> References: <3jie0d$7ss@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <794659950snz@nezumi.demon.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: it.uwp.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: : > I try to garden on my leach field and would like to : > plant perennials that are agressive and annuals that : > freely self sow. Also, I don't want to water the garden Mint seems to be pretty invasive. Boltonia is pretty and multiplies quickly. Peg From bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Sun Mar 12 22:20:43 EST 1995 Article: 58055 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!bs812 From: bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Janet Malowany) Subject: Re: I want invasive plants Message-ID: Sender: bs812@freenet2.carleton.ca (Janet Malowany) Reply-To: bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Janet Malowany) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <3jsvt6$ktq@cs.uwp.edu> <3jie0d$7ss@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <794659950snz@nezumi.demon.co.uk> Date: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 21:23:28 GMT Lines: 24 Status: RO X-Status: In a previous posting, Peggy Seremjian (seremjia@it.uwp.edu) writes: > : > I try to garden on my leach field and would like to > : > plant perennials that are agressive and annuals that > : > freely self sow. Also, I don't want to water the garden > > > Mint seems to be pretty invasive. Boltonia is pretty and multiplies quickly. > > Peg I think Johnny Pop-Ups are really invasive. Someone said California Poppies self sow themselves. If you like, you could try Mint or Catnip, they both take over like weeds! Well, the catnip will take over if you don't have enough cats! :) Janet -- "Horse, thou art truly a creature without equal, for thou fliest without wings and conquerest without sword." -The Koran From garrett@execpc.com Sun Mar 12 22:20:57 EST 1995 Article: 58062 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!news.alpha.net!usenet From: Garrett Keel Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: WWW - Ezine featuring article of software for gardening. Date: 11 Mar 1995 23:30:51 GMT Organization: Alpha.net -- Milwaukee, WI Lines: 3 Message-ID: <3jtbrb$f1v@homer.alpha.net> References: <3jsht3$bl1@scratchy.mi.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: champan.execpc.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Status: RO X-Status: Go directly to the referenced page via the following URL: http://www.wimsey.com/tcp/Jan95/Gardening.html From diveanddig@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:21:18 EST 1995 Article: 58074 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: diveanddig@aol.com (Diveanddig) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want invasive plants Date: 11 Mar 1995 19:52:52 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 1 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jtgl4$bnt@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jie0d$7ss@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: diveanddig@aol.com (Diveanddig) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: RO X-Status: Try Chinese Lantern. From plantone@iquest.net Sun Mar 12 22:21:29 EST 1995 Article: 58079 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!dorite!news From: plantone@iquest.net (Stan) Subject: Re: Hydroponics Message-ID: Sender: news@dorite.use.com (News Admin) Organization: IQuest Network Services X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.91.6 References: <3jan0h$7v8@comet.connix.com> <3js5c4$ak6@shore.shore.net> Date: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 13:59:34 GMT Lines: 10 Status: RO X-Status: In article <3js5c4$ak6@shore.shore.net>, wbw@shore.net (William B. Warren) says: > Does anyone here make their own nutrient solutions? If so, please >let me know, my last attempt at a homemade solution was quite a failure... Will, i have lots of written literature on rolling your own nutrients, although i do not myself (the cost of pre-made is worth the time saved for me). if you are interested email to : plantone@iquest.net From cowens@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 12 22:21:33 EST 1995 Article: 58081 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Compost piles Date: 12 Mar 1995 02:31:56 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 26 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jtmes$ags@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> References: <3jtht3$c0s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc7-05.ix.netcom.com Status: RO X-Status: A compost pile is a wonderful way of turning organic waste into fertilizer. There are a lot of different ways to compost, depending upon how much time and effort you are willing to put into the project. I am, personally, a member of the "let it sit and rot" school; but, then, I have the room in my yard for three large compost bins. The basic technique is to take any sort of organic waste -- chipped-up wood, leaves, grass clippings, vegetable peels, newspapers, etc. and pile them together in one spot. Keep the pile moist, but not wet, and put it somewhere that it will get sun. Bacterial and insect action will rapidly biodegrade all of the material in the pile into compost. You can accelerate this process by turning the pile to mix the ingredients on a regular basis; and by adding a biological activator -- active compost, commercial bio-activators, a spade-full of compost from an already active pile, or -- my favorite (and cheap!) -- a package of yeast. The end result is a dark, crumbly material that is excellent for amending soil. Chris Owens > >can anybody tell me anything about composite piles? From amichael@pond.com Sun Mar 12 22:22:24 EST 1995 Article: 58112 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!wanda.pond.com!sword.pond.com!amichael From: amichael@pond.com (Tony Michael) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Landscape Design on Computer? Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 04:32:58 GMT Organization: FishNet Online Service Lines: 20 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sword.pond.com X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4] Status: RO X-Status: A Hi, I am new to this news group and new to (serious) gardening. One thing I have found as I try to learn about what I might want to plant in my flower beds is... there are a lot of different flowers, all with different reqirement for best growth. I am look for a starting point. I need visual feedback. I am wondering if there exists a computer package that given certain information about the flower bed (demensions(length, width, height, contour), relations to shrubs/trees in bed, degree on sun (shade, sun/shade, shade), geographical location, etc., would suggest and display graphically different planting schemes. The most frustrating thing for me is not knowing what it will look like when the plants grow to maturity... not knowing if combination of plants will grow to tall for the area or to small. With visual aid I can try "if then" games on the computer and not wait until the flowers are grown and try again next year. Any suggestions are appreciated. Tony From jerry_l_young@oakqm3.sps.mot.com Sun Mar 12 22:22:35 EST 1995 Article: 58118 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!spstimes.sps.mot.com!newsdist.sps.mot.com!risc.sps.mot.com!jyoungmac.sps.mot.com!jerry_l_young From: Jerry Young Newsgroups: rec.gardens,sci.geo.meteorology,austin.talk Subject: Re: New Sunset Western Garden Book; Zone for Austin, TX help? Date: 9 Mar 1995 21:26:14 GMT Organization: Motorola RISC Apps Lines: 22 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jnrpm$4k1@talos4.sps.mot.com> References: <3jisai$bb@courier.urbana.mcd.mot.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: jyoungmac.sps.mot.com X-Newsreader: Nuntius Version 1.2 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 15:26:07 GMT Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.gardens:58118 sci.geo.meteorology:14210 Status: RO X-Status: In article <3jna5f$j0n@giga.bga.com> Dewey Coffman, dewey@stonelake writes: >I guess I'm confused as to what you are really asking here. We are definately >ZONE 8, but a damned HUMID zone 8. Ted Fisher talks about our Zone occaisionally >in his newspaper column, but maybe I misunderstood your question. The Sunset Western garden Guide is an extremely useful plant encylcopedia, and they break the zones down into micorclimatic regions, and none of them exactly match out climate here. There are issued like marine influece, humidity, avergae highs and lows, that tell you lots more than the USDA zones. I think the information about zones is useful, but we can't really say that we are in zone 3 or whatever. For example we have wetter winters and springs than a lot of the similar california zones, or we may not have the kind of nighttime cooling that otherwise similar zones might (so, no ceanothus). Sure wish they would exapnd to cover our region,. Regardless, the Sunset Western Garden Guide may be the garden book we use most. Jerry From cev@clam.rutgers.edu Sun Mar 12 22:22:37 EST 1995 Article: 58119 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!dziuxsolim.rutgers.edu!clam.rutgers.edu!not-for-mail From: cev@clam.rutgers.edu (Cara Vandy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: hyacinth: what to do after bloom is gone? Date: 9 Mar 1995 17:13:31 -0500 Organization: Rutgers University Lines: 47 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jnuib$5vs@clam.rutgers.edu> References: <1995Mar3.103327.1@carleton.edu> <3j7oq3$g3g@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jf1lm$9vi@shore.shore.net> <1995Mar6.115933.39734@cobra.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: clam.rutgers.edu Status: RO X-Status: klier@cobra.uni.edu writes: Someone actually took the time to watch a hyacinth's bloom size over four years? Come on, how big a blossom do we really need ? I've planted the forced flowers of Easter outside and they've done fine. I love the smell of hyacinths, but they are freaky looking - a smaller flower blends in better with the average garden anyway. Why throw the bulb away if adding it to the yard will produce another flower, or, at worst, fertilizer ? CEV >In article <3jf1lm$9vi@shore.shore.net>, jmh@shore.net (Joann M. Hnat) writes: >> I have a question -- I've read that once you force a bulb to bloom >> indoors, it won't bloom indoors again, but if you plant it outside, it >> should bloom again. The explanation I've read of this is that the indoor >> plant doesn't get enough sun to make enough food for the plant to bloom >> indoors the next year. >Right. >> >> I don't understand this, though. If I force a bulb, then allow the >> foliage to wither naturally before I discard it, I end up with a bulb >> ready to plant. Why should it make a difference whether I plant it >> indoors or out? It's the same bulb, and it already has whatever >> nutrients it's going to use for the next year's flowering, and it >> wouldn't be getting anything from the sun once the foliage withered and >> was discarded, anyway. >You end up with a bulb, yes, but the bulb hasn't the nutrients/energy >to allocate much to flower production. And flowers are formed before >the bulb goes dormant. Since even the sunniest window is darker than >outdoors, there isn't sufficient photosynthate to make big flowers. >Yes, you may get a smaller flower the next year. This will further >exhaust the bulb if you grow it indoors again. More likely, if you >grow it outdoors, it won't bloom the second year after forcing, but >put up a flower the next year-- usually of smaller size than the >flowers you got when you bought it for forcing. >If you feel morally obliged to save forced bulbs,sink them in the soil >as soon as possible. That way your bulbs can be getting as much >sunlight as possible. Don't wait until the foliage dies back. >Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu (where we're supposed to get 3-5" snow >today) From bruce@resumix.portal.com Sun Mar 12 22:22:39 EST 1995 Article: 58120 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.ksu.ksu.edu!bubba.ucc.okstate.edu!wizard.uark.edu!netnews From: bruce@resumix.portal.com (Bruce Gorham) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Favorite Garden Tools Date: 9 Mar 1995 22:05:45 GMT Organization: Resumix, Inc., Santa Clara, CA Lines: 34 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jnu3p$deq@wizard.uark.edu> References: Reply-To: bruce@resumix.portal.com NNTP-Posting-Host: gawron.cast.uark.edu Status: RO X-Status: My favorite tool is something called a U-Bar. Used for loosening soil in established raised French Intensive type beds. It's a large iron and wood tool something like a garden fork. Mine is 32" wide and 66" tall. It has (2) 48" shovel handles, a 32" wide crossbar to stand on, and (8) 16" tines. Looks Kinda Like This: | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Stand | | Here | |-----------| | | | | | | | Tines | | | | | | | Stick the tines on top of the area you want to loosen. Then stand on the crossbar, forcing the U-Bar as deep as it will go into the soil. Then move the handles back and forth. Works great. I welded this one myself. I think someone still manufactures them, but I'm not sure. Bruce From mwalker@iglou.iglou.com Sun Mar 12 22:22:57 EST 1995 Article: 58132 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!iglou!iglou.iglou.com!mwalker From: mwalker@iglou.iglou.com (Mark Walker) Subject: SEED PROBLEMS Message-ID: Sender: news@iglou.com (USENET News Administrator) Organization: IgLou Internet Services Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 23:22:52 GMT Lines: 23 Status: RO X-Status: On 03-06-95 willid2@rpi.edu wrote to ALL... w > Some of my new sprouts are also getting leggy. I realize that the legginess w > was probably the result of too little light and also maybe too much heat. I w > don't have a heat mat, but they were very close to a radiator for most of w > the day. I can't afford a special light, and the plants were in a w > North-facing window. You don't need a "special" growing light (or at least I never have). I just buy a two bulb florescent fixture and regular bulbs for them. I put one piece of clothesline hooked to each and then tie another section in the middle of that so I can adjust the height as the plants grow. Keep the bulbs about 2 inches away from the plants. The only time I had any problem is when I some tomato plants too early and they did get a little leggy. But I just pulled the lower leaves and buried them fairly horizontal to the top of the soil other than a few top leaves. They grew just fine. Good luck, but you really don't need to spend a bunch of money to start your own plants. Mark Mwalker@iglou.com ... OFFLINE 1.34 From br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu Sun Mar 12 22:23:00 EST 1995 Article: 58133 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!br105 From: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flaming Compost! Date: 9 Mar 1995 23:54:32 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 32 Message-ID: <3jo4fo$10s@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <7770-313778003@mcube.com> <19950301163808.Gordon.Depew@gdepew.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM> <3jkv2b$b5@eccdb1.pms.ford.com> <3jnn11$oen@eccdb1.pms.ford.com> Reply-To: br105@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Jeffrey A. Del Col) NNTP-Posting-Host: nextsun.ins.cwru.edu Status: O X-Status: In a previous article, BGREVEME@etcv01.eld.ford.com (Bryce Grevemeyer) says: >amajorov@id.net wrote: >> >> There is another possibility. The bacterial action could give off a >> substance which oxidizes readily. Somewhat similar to the reaction >> that occurs when a turpentine-soaked rag ignites. Whaddya think? >> > >> Allen > > >Well, Allen one flammable substance that is associated with decaying >material is methane. There are probably other gases and materials >given off. I don't know what the ignition temperature of Methane is. The auto-ignition point of methane is a few hundred degrees. HOWEVER-- even the most minute electrical spark--such as those produced by static electrical build ups between the particles of compost will easily ignite an air/methane mixture. All it takes is enough methane, air and the tiniest spark within or on the surface of the pile and whoosh; there goes the barn. Will o' the wisp--spontaneous methane flares in swamps- is fairly common, so flaming compost is far from out of the question. J. Del Col -- Jeff Del Col * "Sleeplessness is like metaphysics. A-B College * Be there." Philippi, WV * * ----Charles Simic---- From mark@isdn-vertigo.corp.sgi.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:01 EST 1995 Article: 58134 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!olivea!sgigate.sgi.com!fido.asd.sgi.com!isdn-vertigo.corp.sgi.com!mark From: mark@isdn-vertigo.corp.sgi.com (Mark Belanger) Newsgroups: rec.ponds,rec.gardens,rec.aquaria Subject: Re: Introducing Pete's *New* Pond Page Date: 12 Mar 1995 08:52:11 GMT Organization: Silicon Graphics, Inc. Lines: 9 Message-ID: <3jucnr$3e5@fido.asd.sgi.com> References: <3j7tsd$8hp@fido.asd.sgi.com> <1995Mar8.223718.15819@integrity.uucp> NNTP-Posting-Host: isdn-vertigo.corp.sgi.com Keywords: pond, water garden, www, koi, goldfish, water lily Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.ponds:1180 rec.gardens:58134 rec.aquaria:53812 Status: O X-Status: In article <1995Mar8.223718.15819@integrity.uucp>, ronp@mpd.tandem.com (Ron Perez) writes: |> Is anyone else having trouble reaching this site? Is it restricted |> to SGI employees only? Let me know, it sounds like a great home-page. No, it's just a really finicky machine. Try again. He has some great pictures. From ssim@netaccess.on.ca Sun Mar 12 22:23:03 EST 1995 Article: 58135 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!nic.ott.hookup.net!worldlinx.com!alpha.netaccess.on.ca!alpha.netaccess.on.ca!not-for-mail From: ssim@netaccess.on.ca (Sheila Sim) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: blue spruce leader Date: 11 Mar 1995 11:08:19 -0500 Organization: NetAccess Systems Inc., Hamilton, Ontario Lines: 11 Message-ID: <3jshtj$ngg@alpha.netaccess.on.ca> X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Hi! I planted a blue spruce a year ago last summer (here in soon to be spring S. Ontario!). It appears to be shooting up a second leader branch from near the base which I hadn't noticed until later this past summer. Something tells me that'll confuse the hell out of the tree's growing pattern, so, the question is ... should I cut it out? If so, do I need to protect the wound? and when should I do it? I'm always VERY nervous about any pruning, let alone a 2.5 foot branch! So any advice would most MOST welcome. Thanks, Sheila From linda@annie.wellesley.edu Sun Mar 12 22:23:04 EST 1995 Article: 58136 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!wellesley.edu!annie.wellesley.edu!linda From: linda@annie.wellesley.edu (Linda M. French) Subject: Re: What to do w/ NE side of house? Message-ID: <1995Mar9.232519.24278@olaf.wellesley.edu> Sender: news@olaf.wellesley.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: annie.wellesley.edu Organization: Department of Astronomy, Wellesley College, Wellesley, MA Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 23:25:19 GMT Lines: 31 Status: O X-Status: theod@aol.com (Theo D) wrote: >Hello all. An amatuer gardener/landscaper here seeking assistance. >I've got a patch of land, approx. 7x12 ft, on the NE side of my home that >needs sprucing up. >I'm in zone 4-5, and would like to plant a mix of evergreen and deciduous >shrubs that grow to approx. 5' high. I was thinking of viburnum and some >type of yew - but I'm not sure about compatability of the 2. >I'd like some opinions from the experienced out there - What successes >have you had with north facing plantings? I made a really nice north-side path, almost by accident, in my old garden. The side next to the house had several "Nikko Blue" hydrangeas, although now I would use lacecaps. For perennials, I used aruncus (goatsbeard)--looks like a giant astilbe 5' tall!, hostas of all colors, astilbes, alchemilla (lady's mantle), and a low edging boxwood. A clematis "Nelly Moser" that was stuck in the ground temporarily decided there was enough light and prospered. It was really quite lovely! I have checked the zone information and most of these are claimed to be hardy to zone 4. Viburnums are wonderful plants--let us know what you decide to do. Linda French Westwood, MA zone 6 From themaxer@infinet.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:05 EST 1995 Article: 58137 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!malgudi.oar.net!infinet!usenet From: themaxer@infinet.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Moles, I think... Date: 10 Mar 1995 00:16:33 GMT Organization: InfiNet Lines: 9 Message-ID: <3jo5p1$6ks@horus.infinet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p38.infinet.com X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.) Status: O X-Status: I think I have a problem with moles. My yard looks like it has a bad case of acne. There are mounds of dirt all over the place. There are however no clear signs of holes. It just looks like the dirt was piled up. The ground is very soft and hollow under the mounds. What is the best and easiest way to get id of my new friends. HELP! Thanks, Ed themaxer@infinet.com From kuhn@pa881a.inland.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:06 EST 1995 Article: 58138 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!inland!pa881a.inland.com!kuhn Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Tiller recommendations wanted Message-ID: <1995Mar9.173443.1@pa881a.inland.com> From: kuhn@pa881a.inland.com Date: 9 Mar 95 17:34:43 CDT Organization: Inland Steel Company, East Chicago, IN Nntp-Posting-Host: pa881a Nntp-Posting-User: sjoquist Lines: 10 Status: O X-Status: I would like some feedback on different company/models of rototillers. I am considering purchasing a tiller this year and was wondering if anyone could recommend or not recommend certain models. I have info on Troy-Bilts but they are out of my price range. I would like some info on others like Sears, MTD, Weed Eater, etc. Thanks John Kuhn From kuhn@pa881a.inland.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:08 EST 1995 Article: 58139 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!inland!pa881a.inland.com!kuhn Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Are wheel hoes worth while? Message-ID: <1995Mar9.174207.1@pa881a.inland.com> From: kuhn@pa881a.inland.com Date: 9 Mar 95 17:42:07 CDT Organization: Inland Steel Company, East Chicago, IN Nntp-Posting-Host: pa881a Nntp-Posting-User: sjoquist Lines: 13 Status: O X-Status: I would like some feedback on wheel hoes. How well do they work? Are they difficult to use? Are they worth the money & energy needed to purchase and use one? Are there any specific models that you can recommend? I am considering purchasing a tiller and was wondering if using a combination of a wheel hoe and a mini tiller would fill my needs. My garden is between 1/4 and 1/2 acre and the soil is fairly soft (no hard clay). Any comments recommendations will be appreciated. Thanks John Kuhn From accord@ibm.net Sun Mar 12 22:23:09 EST 1995 Article: 58140 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsgate.advantis.net!news-m01.ny.us.ibm.net!news From: accord@ibm.net Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Alberta gardens Date: 11 Mar 1995 21:59:34 GMT Lines: 29 Message-ID: <3jt6g6$gi4@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net> References: <3ja2va$qlu@news.sas.ab.ca> Reply-To: accord@ibm.net NNTP-Posting-Host: slip153-9.on.ca.ibm.net X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.09 Status: O X-Status: In <3ja2va$qlu@news.sas.ab.ca>, tedarmst@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca () writes: >I have retired and am looking to upgrade my garden this year. We have a >short hot growing season here in Alberta. Are there any gardeners in >similar hot/cold zones where I could ask a question and receive advice. I am >quite a novice apart from cutting grass and planting the occasional bedding >plant. >Perhaps there are books the more experienced gardener could >recommend. Hope you can help me...I feel spring in the air already >despite the fact the temperature this morning is minus 20 degrees Centigrade! > >Hi Ted! There are a series of books put out about gardening in the Prairies here in Alberta that are excellent. The titles include "Perennials for the Prairies", "Annuals for the Prairies" and "Woody Ornamentals for the Prairies". You can pick these up at most book stores. In addition, the U of A puts out a home gardening course which includes a text book also available at most bookstores. It also has a great deal of useful info ranging from turf to veggies to fruit trees, etc. There used to be a help line anyone in Alta could call at the Alberta Horticultural Centre (Alberta Agriculture), but funding cuts saw its demise. However, there are a number of good souls there that would likely help, as there are as the Muttart Conservatory in Edmonton, etc. If I can be of help, please feel free to email me. I am not a horticulturalist but I am a Master Gardener and have lots of books... Any other Alta gardeners out there waiting with baited breath for spring???? Dawn Campbell, St. Albert, AB, Canada From accord@ibm.net Sun Mar 12 22:23:10 EST 1995 Article: 58141 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsgate.advantis.net!news-m01.ny.us.ibm.net!news From: accord@ibm.net Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! gophers? moles? Date: 11 Mar 1995 22:23:40 GMT Lines: 29 Message-ID: <3jt7tc$gi4@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net> References: <3jf4f4$qbd@martha.utk.edu> Reply-To: accord@ibm.net NNTP-Posting-Host: slip153-9.on.ca.ibm.net X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.09 Status: O X-Status: In <3jf4f4$qbd@martha.utk.edu>, uther@martha.utcc.utk.edu () writes: >-------- > >i hope someone out there in cyberspace can help me. last summer i bought a >new house. this fall i planted several hundred bulbs so i've been looking >forward to spring. spring is here (here is knoxville, tn, usa) and several >(but less than i had expected) things were starting to come up - and a few >to bloom - when disaster struck... the new shoots were eaten below ground >level! just a few chewed shoots left in a small hole. the holes range in >size from around an inch to two or three inches in diameter. there are lots >of mounds in the affected areas. > > Hi there! They could be pocket gophers or moles. If they are you will see soft mounds of dirt where they have dug their tunnels. Just plain ole gophers leave their holes exposed. We had a similar experience on our acreage. I tried traps and water...nothing worked. So I got mean and vicious, and laid out several smoke bombs (woodchuck bombs) at the same time in various locations. If there are mounds, take a piece of dowling or a garden stake and poke around til you find the opening. Light the smoke bomb and place it upside down in the hole, quickly covering it over with a thick layer of dirt. These didn't work using one or two at a time...several were required. And the little bu..ers never came back. I also noticed they seem to dislike aromatic plants such as geraniums and petunias. Areas where I had planted such plants never were touched. Totally unscientific finding, but if it works... Good luck getting rid of your varmints! Dawn Campbell, Edmonton, AB From accord@ibm.net Sun Mar 12 22:23:12 EST 1995 Article: 58142 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsgate.advantis.net!news-m01.ny.us.ibm.net!news From: accord@ibm.net Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Is "Roundup" Safe Way To Kill A Lawn Date: 11 Mar 1995 22:35:12 GMT Lines: 35 Message-ID: <3jt8j0$gi4@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net> References: Reply-To: accord@ibm.net NNTP-Posting-Host: slip153-9.on.ca.ibm.net X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.09 Status: O X-Status: In , wdill@Primenet.com (Bill Dill) writes: >I got an estimate from a a landscaper for replacing my lawn. I was >surprised to learn that the major part of the job was killing and removing >the old lawn. He said that he would use a product called "Roundup". I >have 2 children so I'm concerned about the possible health problems I've >heard associated with using herbicides and pesticides. > >Can anyone tell me anything about Roundup? Is there any truly safe way to >kill off a lawn? > Glyphosate is the active ingredient in Roundup. It is supposed to be a relatively safe herbicide since it does not leach. It does, however, kill anything it touches and because it is systemic, it can cause alot of damage from drift. I have had alot of questions about glyphosate's supposed safety. Lots of farmers use it in their veggie gardens to kill quackgrass, etc., prior to seeding. I used it in a couple of very small flower beds that had nothing in them, and noticed the next few years that seed germination seemed to be reduced. I have talked to other people who have felt their gardens didn't perform as well after having used glyphosate. The experts say because it binds so tightly to the soil it is safe, but I wonder... In any case, the dead plant matter killled with glyphosate should not be tilled into your soil. It is this plant matter that contains the highest residue. So in summary I would watch out. While it doesn't leech, it is a potent chemical and there are some serious unanswered questions about it. It has some very good uses, but, why does he have to kill off your lawn first? Usually, tilling the old lawn is more than sufficient. Oftentimes, the soil needs amending. There will be a significant hazard to any trees or plants in your yard as well as those of any neighbours. I would get quotes from a few other landscapers. The proposal you have received sounds unduly drastic. Good luck! Dawn Campbell, Edmonton, AB From accord@ibm.net Sun Mar 12 22:23:14 EST 1995 Article: 58143 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsgate.advantis.net!news-m01.ny.us.ibm.net!news From: accord@ibm.net Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want invasive plants Date: 11 Mar 1995 22:42:17 GMT Lines: 13 Message-ID: <3jt909$gi4@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net> References: <3jie0d$7ss@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: accord@ibm.net NNTP-Posting-Host: slip153-9.on.ca.ibm.net X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.09 Status: O X-Status: In <3jie0d$7ss@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>, PDietz@ix.netcom.com (Pat Dietz) writes: >I try to garden on my leach field and would like to >plant perennials that are agressive and annuals that >freely self sow. Also, I don't want to water the garden > Try Golden Marguerite--it's a bright yellow daisy perennial that is relatively short-lived (about 4 years) that self-sows with a vengeance! It blooms in our area from June to Sept (Zone 3/4) and provides a very showy yellow wall of flowers that are also excellent for cutting. Blanket flower is also a good one (gaillardia) and there are several varities short and tall. Most are yellow and burgundy mixed. They are very easy to sow, and thrive in hot dry conditions. Dawn Campbell, Edmonton, AB From accord@ibm.net Sun Mar 12 22:23:15 EST 1995 Article: 58144 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsgate.advantis.net!news-m01.ny.us.ibm.net!news From: accord@ibm.net Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: vegetable plants for containers Date: 11 Mar 1995 22:52:08 GMT Lines: 9 Message-ID: <3jt9io$gi4@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net> References: <3jn1r6$4au@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: accord@ibm.net NNTP-Posting-Host: slip153-9.on.ca.ibm.net X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.09 Status: O X-Status: In <3jn1r6$4au@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, lexloci1@aol.com (LEX LOCI 1) writes: >Can anyone give me some good varieties of >vegetables(tomatoes,greens,herbs,spinach) that will grow well in >containers in an urban garden,specifically Philadelphia? If you can get a hold of a book called "Edible Landscaping", it will help you out with info on varieties as well as some neat ideas for container gardening with veggies. Dawn Campbell From tdebraya@awinc.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:17 EST 1995 Article: 58145 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!netnet2.netnet.net!awinc.com!usenet From: tdebraya@awinc.com (Tom Debrayanna) Newsgroups: news.config,news.groups,misc.consumers,misc.rural,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Propose new group: alt.living.tightwad Date: Sat, 11 Mar 95 22:36:23 PST Organization: A & W Internet Inc. Lines: 5 Message-ID: <3ju4a8$ndc@kelowna.awinc.com> References: <3jj9vs$91p@isnews.calpoly.edu> <3jooot$7sp@news1.best.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pme207.aim.awinc.com Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.93.9 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.config:559 news.groups:114010 misc.consumers:87774 misc.rural:15879 rec.gardens:58145 Status: O X-Status: In article <3jooot$7sp@news1.best.com>, frugal@best.com says... >Also, if this group would : interest you, please post a response saying so. Ya, I think it is a good idea.....I'll follow it and add what I can.. From buktop@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:18 EST 1995 Article: 58146 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: buktop@aol.com (BUKTOP) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Aug/Sept PERENNIALS Date: 9 Mar 1995 19:33:15 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 7 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jo6ob$6lv@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: buktop@aol.com (BUKTOP) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I am looking for some perennials that would do well in one half day afternoon sun, would be about three feet tall and red or bright pink in color that would do well in Illinois in clay soil and bloom for a good part of Aug. and Sept. I have thought of Firefly Phlox or perhaps some Cleome which is not a perennial but booms at this time. My garden really looks too green in Aug. and Sept. and I need to liven up the color. Any suggestions? From apowell@u.washington.edu Sun Mar 12 22:23:20 EST 1995 Article: 58147 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!nntp.cac.washington.edu!bambam.u.washington.edu!apowell From: apowell@bambam.u.washington.edu (Andrea Powell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Empty Seed Envelopes? Date: 10 Mar 1995 00:35:46 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Tacoma Lines: 1 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jo6t2$e07@nntp3.u.washington.edu> References: <3jn70l$i8e@info1.sdrc.com> <0098D1A0.F80D4405@netins.net> Reply-To: apowell@u.washington.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: bambam.u.washington.edu Status: O X-Status: Office supply stores have small envelopes designed for keys. These are about 2" wide by about 3" long and work great for little seeds. From djd@cbddo1.cb.att.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:21 EST 1995 Article: 58148 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!nntpa!not-for-mail From: djd@cbddo1.cb.att.com (D416B/Dave Daulton/X4410/D/B) Subject: Buffalo Grass Message-ID: Sender: news@nntpa.cb.att.com (Netnews Administration) Nntp-Posting-Host: cbddo1.cb.att.com Organization: CE&T Columbus, OH Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 22:38:04 GMT Lines: 16 Status: O X-Status: I am working on a proposal to turn some acres around my work site into natural plantings--to save my company some $$$s, and our environment some pollution. I am working from a proposal that was accepted at another site, in Naperville, Illinois. However, that proposal uses a lot of buffalo grass, and from past dicussions on rec.gardens, I seem to recall that bufallo grass might not do well back here in Columbus, Ohio (too wet). Is that true? If so, is there anything comparable that would work here? Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio From djd@cbddo1.cb.att.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:24 EST 1995 Article: 58149 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!nntpa!not-for-mail From: djd@cbddo1.cb.att.com (D416B/Dave Daulton/X4410/D/B) Subject: Re: Where's a good place to get 'Hosta's' (mail order) Message-ID: Sender: news@nntpa.cb.att.com (Netnews Administration) Nntp-Posting-Host: cbddo1.cb.att.com Organization: CE&T Columbus, OH References: <3j5i8k$cb4@news.bu.edu> <3jlgi6$sc2@agate.berkeley.edu> Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 23:19:16 GMT Lines: 15 Status: O X-Status: A good mail order source for hostas is Handy Hatfields, in Circleville, Ohio. I don't have his address, but his number is (614) 474-5719. I believe his catlog is $3. He has always given me good-sized divisions, and his selection is extensive, ranging from cheapies, to $300 specimens. I buy the cheapies, although I did splurge and spend (I think it was) $28 on Regal Splendor--which resembles its name. It is my favorite hosta. I espcially like shopping at his gardens in person, although I always feel rather like a vandal, since his stock beds are incorporated into his landscape, so what I buy comes straight out of his well arranged plantings. Dave Daulton, Columbus, Ohio From kpwitman@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:26 EST 1995 Article: 58150 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: kpwitman@aol.com (KPWitman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: morning glory foliage Date: 9 Mar 1995 22:33:41 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 7 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3johal$9sf@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: kpwitman@aol.com (KPWitman) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I know that morning glory is very easily invasive, but last summer (in Zone 7) the foliage had devoured an entire corner of the garden (full sun) and the wagon wheel designed to support the vine had disappeared, and by August 1 there wasn't a single flower. I got disgusted too quickly and ripped it out. Should I have waited? Does it really bloom that late in the summer? (Can't remember the cultivar: is that likely the problem?) Thanks -Kim Witman From fletcher@prairienet.org Sun Mar 12 22:23:27 EST 1995 Article: 58151 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!prairienet.org!fletcher From: fletcher@prairienet.org (Karen Fletcher) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What's BLOOMIN' in your part of the la Date: 12 Mar 1995 10:42:01 GMT Organization: Prairienet, the East-Central Illinois Free-Net Lines: 9 Message-ID: <3juj5p$e0n@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: <3jj4p3$a8e@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jl163$p30@engnews2.Eng.Sun.COM> NNTP-Posting-Host: firefly.prairienet.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Snow crocuses. Hey, this is Zone 5, whaddaya expect? We take what we can get! Karen Fletcher fletcher@prairienet.org ========================================================================== The Garden Gate http://www.prairienet.org/ag/garden/homepage.htm The Garden Gate at SunSITE http://sunsite.unc.edu/garden-gate/homepage.htm The Garden Spider's Web http://mirror.wwa.com/mirror/garden/spdrsweb.htm From fletcher@prairienet.org Sun Mar 12 22:23:29 EST 1995 Article: 58152 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!prairienet.org!fletcher From: fletcher@prairienet.org (Karen Fletcher) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: address/phone # for Gardens Alive Date: 12 Mar 1995 10:52:35 GMT Organization: Prairienet, the East-Central Illinois Free-Net Lines: 20 Message-ID: <3jujpj$e0n@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: firefly.prairienet.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Keisha O'Banion (obaniokm@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu) wrote: : Hi everyone, : I've seen lots of folks mention Gardens Alive as a good source for pest : control items. Would someone please post the address and phone # ? Garden's Alive Hyw. 48, P.O. Box 149 Sunman, IN 47041 Catalog: Free 812-623-3800 Offerings: tools, equipment, IPM supplies, beneficial insects Comments: fully illustrated catalog Karen Fletcher fletcher@prairienet.org ========================================================================== The Garden Gate http://www.prairienet.org/ag/garden/homepage.htm The Garden Gate at SunSITE http://sunsite.unc.edu/garden-gate/homepage.htm The Garden Spider's Web http://mirror.wwa.com/mirror/garden/spdrsweb.htm From jgtusciu@mtu.edu Sun Mar 12 22:23:30 EST 1995 Article: 58153 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!news.mtu.edu!news.mtu.edu!not-for-mail From: jgtusciu@mtu.edu (John Tusciuk) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Trees from the seeds?? Date: 9 Mar 1995 23:07:12 -0500 Organization: Michigan Technological University Lines: 30 Message-ID: <3joj9g$phg@werner.cs.mtu.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: werner.cs.mtu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Bill Weaver (bweaver@joshua.corp.sgi.com) wrote: : I have been trying, unsuccessfully to start various fruit trees from the : seeds of their fruit. You might want to mention what kinds of fruit you are trying to start, but realize that while you may get nice trees, the fruit probably won't be quite what you started with. Most fruit trees are heavily hybridized and propagated vegetatively. If you are, for example, starting apples from seed you are likely to get fruit that is quite small and perhaps even unappetizing. With that warning... Many fruit seeds have better germination if cold stratified (kept in moist sand or peat in the refrigerator for a couple of months). I know apples and pears in particular are this way. If you are trying to start a stone fruit (peach, plum, cherry) you will want to file the hard seed coat down a ways to allow moisture in. As long as you don't damage the inner seed it will still sprout. It's also possible you simply are giving up too soon; tree seeds (especially large ones) tend to take longer to sprout than, say, garden seeds. Notable exceptions to most of this are citrus. Fresh (right out of the fruit and still moist when planted) seeds will sprout in a couple of weeks and grow rather quickly. I don't know what kind of fruit you would get from these, but I've grown several lemon and tangerine seeds and they make nice house/patio plants (here in Michigan where citrus would never survive an autumn, let alone a winter outdoors). John Tusciuk jgtusciu@mtu.edu From andrewm@idirect.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:31 EST 1995 Article: 58154 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!uunet.ca!uunet.ca!news.compulink.com!usenet From: andrewm@idirect.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Wildflowers - Southern Ontario Date: 8 Mar 1995 04:49:58 GMT Organization: ComputerLink Online Inc., Toronto, ON Lines: 5 Message-ID: <3jjd1m$ljl@news.compulink.com> Reply-To: andrewm@idirect.com NNTP-Posting-Host: chaos.idirect.com X-Newsreader: IBM NewsReader/2 v1.03 Status: O X-Status: I'm looking for a wildflower mixture for my border garden in Southern Ontario. Most of the commercial packages do not have species that are common here and I would rather find a mixture containing seeds indegenius to this region. Any suggestions? From jgtusciu@mtu.edu Sun Mar 12 22:23:32 EST 1995 Article: 58155 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!news.mtu.edu!news.mtu.edu!not-for-mail From: jgtusciu@mtu.edu (John Tusciuk) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: date seed germination Date: 9 Mar 1995 22:52:23 -0500 Organization: Michigan Technological University Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3joidn$ph3@werner.cs.mtu.edu> References: <2523979741.1505506@lamg.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: werner.cs.mtu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Tim Gaydos (Tim_Gaydos@lamg.com) wrote: : I would like to grow some date palms from seeds. I have been eating the dates : and saving the pits. What do I need to do to get these to germinate and : sprout? Any information about germination and growing these plants would be : helpful. : Thanks, Tim I recently started several. I put them in a jar of water and put it on the radiator (dates like a lot of heat; my radiator was hot enough to kill just about everything else I tried to sprout on it). They will sprout a small white root sticking through the side after a few weeks (mine took about a week and a half, but I've read quotes of up to six weeks). Then stick in potting soil. I don't know if it matters, but I stick them in vertically. Be careful with the root because it's easy to break it off (I broke a couple). You might have as good luck just putting them in the soil, but I figure what worked once will work again. I've started seven this way, and the first I did (about two months ago) is now about three inches tall. I've had all the seeds I've tried sprout, by the way. Oh, and I changed the water everytime it started looking cloudy. John Tusciuk jgtusciu@mtu.edu From Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us Sun Mar 12 22:23:33 EST 1995 Article: 58156 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!redstone.interpath.net!aicrtp!Uaic Newsgroups: rec.gardens Message-ID: <73@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us> Reply-To: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) From: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) Date: Thu, 09 Mar 1995 22:50:33 GMT Subject: good smelling annuals Lines: 14 Status: O X-Status: brachyome iberidifolia - swan river daisy cheiranthus cheiri - wallflower dianthus barbatus - sweet william heliotropium arborescens - heliotrope lathyrus odoratus - sweet pea lobularia maritima - sweet alyssum matthiola incana - stock matthiola longipetala - night scented stock mirablis jalapa - four oclock reseda odorata - mignonette These are from a list in one of my gardening books. sweet pea alyssum and four oclocks are fragrant I have not tried the others but I plan too!!! From Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us Sun Mar 12 22:23:34 EST 1995 Article: 58157 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!redstone.interpath.net!aicrtp!Uaic Newsgroups: rec.gardens Message-ID: <72@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us> References: <3j01u5$gls@tekadm1.cse.tek.com><3jkpot$1f4@babylon.gain.com> Reply-To: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) From: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) Date: Thu, 09 Mar 1995 22:37:40 GMT Subject: Re: Foxglove afterlife? reseeding themselves Lines: 8 Status: O X-Status: You basiccally have to watch the following. dont mulch until after the plants start to grow. Alot of people will mulch around the plant in the winter and that buries the seeds. So they dont grow. make sure that you dont really disturb the soil around the plant until the foxglove starts to grow and then mulch and fertlize. From jgtusciu@mtu.edu Sun Mar 12 22:23:35 EST 1995 Article: 58158 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!msunews!news.mtu.edu!news.mtu.edu!not-for-mail From: jgtusciu@mtu.edu (John Tusciuk) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Trees from the seeds?? Date: 9 Mar 1995 23:16:22 -0500 Organization: Michigan Technological University Lines: 26 Message-ID: <3jojqm$phs@werner.cs.mtu.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: werner.cs.mtu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Bill Weaver (bweaver@joshua.corp.sgi.com) wrote: : Bewing relatively new to this newsgroup I apologize if this subject has : been discussed or if there is a FAQ (can some one point me to it). : I have been trying, unsuccessfully to start various fruit trees from the : seeds of their fruit. This may seem really ignorant but I had never seen : or read anything on the subject of tree starting. : Can anyone help. Is it even possible? I also just remembered that I have a book that describes methods for starting many seeds: The New Seed-Starters Handbook by Nancy Bubel Rodale Press $14.95 list This book mentions apples, pears, Prunus spp. (cherry, plum, almond), as well as nut trees, blueberry bushes, raspberry bushes, etc. The author is much more optimistic about the fruit from the trees than I was in my previous post. The book also describes methods for saving and sowing seeds for a large number of vegetables, flowers, trees, and shrubs and is just chock full of general advice as well. John From wham108550@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:36 EST 1995 Article: 58159 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: wham108550@aol.com (Wham108550) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: vegetable plants for containers Date: 9 Mar 1995 23:42:26 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 2 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jolbi$b6b@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jn1r6$4au@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: wham108550@aol.com (Wham108550) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Cherry tomatoes, Chives, Sage, Oregano and Parsley have done real well for me in pots From pjsirl@eskimo.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:37 EST 1995 Article: 58160 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!eskimo!pjsirl From: pjsirl@eskimo.com (Peter Sirl) Subject: Re: Moles, I think... X-Nntp-Posting-Host: eskimo.com Message-ID: Sender: usenet@eskimo.com (News User Id) Organization: Eskimo North (206) For-Ever X-Newsreader: NN version 6.5.0 #9 (NOV) References: <3jo5p1$6ks@horus.infinet.com> Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 04:49:28 GMT Lines: 25 Status: O X-Status: themaxer@infinet.com writes: >I think I have a problem with moles. My yard looks like it has a bad case of acne. >There are mounds of dirt all over the place. There are however no clear signs of >holes. It just looks like the dirt was piled up. The ground is very soft and hollow >under the mounds. What is the best and easiest way to get id of my new friends. >HELP! >Thanks, >Ed >themaxer@infinet.com I had a mole problem two years ago and solved it with Fox Urine. Yes, real urine...no I don't know how they get the stuff (Please fill the cup to the line Mr. Fox). But hey it worked. Get an unused synthetic sponge and cut it into small pieces 1x1/2in. should do. Scrape dirt from entrance of hole and insert a sponge, then give a squirt or two of the pee onto the sponge and cover the hole. I saved the excess dirt and used it in my veg. patch. The theory behind this proccedure is: the mole smells the urine of a large predator and skeedatles for safer forage...in theory. They may take a while to get the picture. Keep in mind that moles do no DIRECT damage to plants, although the roots don't like being exposed to air, and moles are preying on our friends the worms. Other than that it's just unsightly...Get the Pee-Pee at a larger or better garden supply store. Good Luck. Peter From adubrofs@ccs.carleton.ca Sun Mar 12 22:23:38 EST 1995 Article: 58161 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: misc.rural,rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!superior!adubrofs From: adubrofs@ccs.carleton.ca (Anne Dubrofsky) Subject: Re: Slugs Message-ID: Followup-To: misc.rural,rec.gardens Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] References: Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 05:21:06 GMT Lines: 58 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu misc.rural:15882 rec.gardens:58161 Status: O X-Status: Michael E. Matthews (mem7c@fermi.clas.Virginia.EDU) wrote: > cut > I have heard people > > >>use Diematrius (sp?) earth. I have sprinkled about two pounds > > >>of it on our beds and walk ways over the past several months but > > >>it doesn't seem to have _any_ affect on the slugs at all. I bought > > >>it at Gardens Alive who claims it does wonders at killing slugs. So... > > >>What am I doing wrong with it that my local slugs don't seem to > > >>be affected by it? Any ideas? Does it work for you? Does it no? > > >>How do you use it? > > > > cut > > > > >It's "diatomaceous" earth. Remains of little sea critters from long > > >ago. I heard it's best used when sprinkled fairly thickly in a ring > > >around individual plants. Slugs don't like to crawl over the stuff; its > > >sharp edges hurts their bellies. > > > > cut > > Anyways what I read was to mix it with water > > and spray on the plants, then when the slugs eat it it dries them out inside > > I would be interested to hear from anyone who has tried this > cut > I used diatomaceous earth (DE) last year, and it was moderately > effective. A light dusting where slugs will crawl does cut > them up and make them dry out and die. I just sprinkled the > powder on the ground like talcum powder when there was little > liklihood of rain for several days. It is no longer effective > after a rain washes it down into the soil, so best to apply it > when there's good weather ahead. I also used tuna cans of > beer, which would get a lot of slugs for a couple of days then > need to be replaced too. My best treatment was flashlight and > stick--no need for salt or ammonia, etc.--just smash the snails > with the stick. But make sure you don't hold the used end of > the stick the next time. :( Disgusting. > Using the stick method consistently and the beer and DE > sporadically, I did not find myself withour snails at any time, > but I had much less snail damage to my garden. More will always > come, but few stayed around long enough to eat all my flowers > and vegetables. I can put up with the occasional loss. > BTW, one pest book I read standing up at the garden center said > a snail can crawl a mile a day. > Michael in central VA, two daffodils in bloom. Last summer, I tried two methods, both of which work, but which also make the gardener work. First, you can sprinkle salt on the slugs. The second method, is to spray a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water on the creatures. In actual fact, I diluted the vinegar just a bit more, (55:45 of water:vinegar). For both methods, I did this in the morning, so that I didn't need a flashlight, and because I disliked the procedure in the dark. You do need to be early, within two hours of sun-up. My plants thrived for not being chewed by the slugs. Anne. From le@icbr.ifas.ufl.edu Sun Mar 12 22:23:41 EST 1995 Article: 58162 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!usenet.ufl.edu!flanegan2.health.ufl.edu!user From: le@icbr.ifas.ufl.edu (Lucia Eisner Smerage) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mulch and termites Date: Thu, 09 Mar 1995 23:56:05 -0400 Organization: U of Florida Lines: 17 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: flanegan2.health.ufl.edu Status: O X-Status: In article , chrisi@netcom.com (Chris Ischay) wrote: > I am wondering if anyone has any direct experience of finding that mulch > made from wood can wind up harboring termites? Here in Gainesville, Florida, it is a big problem. I just had dinner with someone whose new landscapers mulched over a concrete barrier and up to the casement windows at her business several months ago, and now the building is infested with termites. The inspectors have traced the timing and progression of the infestation to the cypress mulch. The inspector warns that you can mulch up to the concrete foundation, but not to mulch right up to wooden structures (unless it's chemically treated wood to prevent termite infestation.) -- Lucia From wham108550@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:42 EST 1995 Article: 58163 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: wham108550@aol.com (Wham108550) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tomatoes in Pots? Date: 9 Mar 1995 23:41:00 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 4 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jol8s$b52@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: wham108550@aol.com (Wham108550) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Last summer I tried growing Cherry Tomatoes in pots with very good success As for the flowers dropping before bearing fruit I don't know for sure but I believe insects are needed for pollenation and that may be a problem. But I'd first put my money on the roommate that let them go with out water From k8128@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:43 EST 1995 Article: 58164 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: k8128@aol.com (K8 128) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seed Germination Problems Date: 9 Mar 1995 23:46:29 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 4 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jolj5$b89@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jlo68$qte@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: k8128@aol.com (K8 128) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Hi, Try germinating at a higher temperature. Seeds seem to like warm to germinate and cool to grow (go figure). I just put them on a table with a lamp under it. good luck, kate. From jack@ckd.uucp Sun Mar 12 22:23:44 EST 1995 Article: 58165 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!wanda.pond.com!kd3bj!ckd!jack Newsgroups: rec.gardens Message-ID: <277@ckd.uucp> Reply-To: jack@ckd.uucp (jack paul) From: jack@ckd.uucp (jack paul) Date: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 10:54:38 GMT Subject: Suggestions for vine? Lines: 14 Status: O X-Status: This is my first post! I've been enjoying your group for several months now. Thanks to all for the wealth of information. I have an old concrete (at least thats what it looks like) springhouse that I would like to cover with a vine. Obviously, its in a damp area. It's in a wooded area and gets only minimal sun. I'd like something that flowers (trumpet vine?) and/or is evergreen. I think our soil is a little acidic (Rhodos, ferns and Jack-in-the-Pulpits do well here). Zone 6, I thinks. About 60 miles north west of Phila. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! Linda. Jack Paul Hereford, Pa. USA jack%ckd@kd3bj.ampr.orgt From klier@cobra.uni.edu Sun Mar 12 22:23:45 EST 1995 Article: 58166 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!news.ksu.ksu.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Air freshening indoor plants?? Message-ID: <1995Mar9.231620.39996@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 9 Mar 95 23:16:20 -0600 References: <3jnjbk$926@pegasus.rutgers.edu> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 22 Status: O X-Status: In article <3jnjbk$926@pegasus.rutgers.edu>, craighd@pegasus.rutgers.edu (Craig Davis) writes: > Are there any particular indoor plants that are good for > getting rid of stale air? Along those lines, I heard that > most plants produce relatively little usable oxygen, but > does this vary greatly among different plants? Right now > I have a china doll, which seems to have a good effect. > Also, it seems that plant output varies with different > conditions and times of day. With the china doll, I notice > that it smells the freshest in morning sunlight, after it's > been watered. Of course, this is anecdotal evidence. It sort of depends on what you mean by "getting rid of stale air". "Airplane plant" or "spider plant", _Chlorophytum_, is one of the best at absorbing indoor air pollutants, or so said an EPA(?) study of about 10 years ago. If you're looking for plants that smell good indoors, well... I'm kinda fond of scented leaf geraniums. Just run your fingers lightly over the leaves. UM! Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From gmileson@netcom.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:46 EST 1995 Article: 58167 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!gmileson From: gmileson@netcom.com (Glenna Mileson) Subject: Re: Going NATIVE Message-ID: Sender: gmileson@netcom7.netcom.com Organization: Mileson & Associates X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #3 References: <3jki3i$q27@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 05:24:47 GMT Lines: 16 Status: O X-Status: >Steve Graf, graf@aldus.NorthNet.org writes: >>2 that grow very well in my garden. I would be interested if anyone >could >>tell me where I might purchase native "species" azaleas suitable for >USDA >>zone 4/5. Lots of nurseries seem to have hybrids but not species >azaleas :(. > The Rhododendron Species Botanical Garden PO Box 3789 Federal Way, WA 98063-3798 (206)838-4646 It's also a wonderful garden to visit. From xx143@prairienet.org Sun Mar 12 22:23:47 EST 1995 Article: 58168 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!prairienet.org!xx143 From: xx143@prairienet.org (Koeltz Scientific Books) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: FREE GARDENING SOFTWARE Date: 12 Mar 1995 12:38:56 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 16 Message-ID: <3juq10$jde@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> Reply-To: xx143@prairienet.org (Koeltz Scientific Books) NNTP-Posting-Host: firefly.prairienet.org Status: RO X-Status: we have several shareware and free gardening software programs available for downloading from our windows based bulletin board. you must get our client program first in order to access our bbs and get these programs. this program is available on the internet via www http://www.prairienet.org/business/koeltz/homepage.htm not html! programs include medicinal plants & uses, vegetable garden plotter, flower garden plotter and database, herbal plants uses, plus internet addresses for botanists, biologists guide to the internet, etc . and our botany books catalogs of course. -- ********************** Koeltz Scientific Books USA ********************** * www.prairienet.org/business/koeltz/homepage.htm phone 217-355-9331 * * email: xx143@prairienet.org BBS Modem (DirectDial) 217-355-4532 * ************************************************************************* From dhartung@MCS.COM Sun Mar 12 22:23:49 EST 1995 Article: 58169 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!not-for-mail From: dhartung@MCS.COM (Daniel Hartung) Newsgroups: news.config,news.groups,misc.consumers,misc.rural,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Propose new group: alt.living.tightwad Date: 10 Mar 1995 17:51:14 -0600 Organization: Birch Grove Software Lines: 14 Message-ID: <3jqoli$5o@Mars.mcs.com> References: <3jj9vs$91p@isnews.calpoly.edu> <3jooot$7sp@news1.best.com> <3jq3po$rov@jac.zko.dec.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mars.mcs.com Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.config:560 news.groups:114052 misc.consumers:87787 misc.rural:15884 rec.gardens:58169 Status: RO X-Status: Larry Smith USG wrote: >Folks, while I think the idea has merit, I must remind you >that alt groups are not debated in news.groups, they are >_not_ part of the "big 7" hierarchy. If you want an alt >group, take it to alt.config. If you want one in misc, >rec,soc,sci,news,comp, or talk, then keep it here. Good point, except that that hasn't been decided yet. -- Daniel A. Hartung | Support the new Arts/Humanities hierarchy! dhartung@mcs.com | dhartung@chinet.chinet.com | Look for the "humanities.misc" CFV http://www.mcs.net/~dhartung/ | in news.announce.newgroups From mrbag@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:23:53 EST 1995 Article: 58170 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: mrbag@aol.com (MrBag) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Sage Date: 10 Mar 1995 01:03:12 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 1 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3joq30$cl6@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: mrbag@aol.com (MrBag) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: How long does it take for sage to grow in the winter? From bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Sun Mar 12 22:23:56 EST 1995 Article: 58171 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!bs812 From: bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Janet Malowany) Subject: Re: Small Fruit Trees?? Message-ID: Sender: bs812@freenet3.carleton.ca (Janet Malowany) Reply-To: bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Janet Malowany) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <3jnckp$mhm@info1.sdrc.com> Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 01:06:43 GMT Lines: 40 Status: O X-Status: Lisa, How big is your yard? How big do you want the tree to get? Answers to these questions could help people figure out how to help you. Janet In a previous posting, lisa kerns (drlkrns@sdrc.com) writes: > I was thinking of getting some fruit trees for my yard, but I > have never selected fruit trees before. I would like a variety > of maybe, a pair each of several different fruit trees. > > As an example, my National Arbor Day Foundation Book lists > for most of the different fruit trees: Dwarf (2-3') and > Standard (3-5'), and for some also Semi-Dwarf (3-5'). > > It doesn't say, but it sounds like this would have to be the size > at shipment. I need to know how tall they will grow and their spread! > My neighbor once had a cherry tree that was twice the size of his house! > Good gracious, my yard isn't THAT big, and I want a few different kinds > of fruits, but I don't want really big trees, and I don't really want > puny ones either. Do all fruit trees come in a dwarf size? How big do > they get? > > > ===================================================================== > | Lisa M. Kerns e-mail: lisa.kerns@sdrc.com | > | | > | Structural Dynamics Research Corporation Cincinnati, OH | > | My employer cannot be held responsible for my correspondence ... | > | They'd probably deny that I was employed here anyway. | > ===================================================================== > -- "Horse, thou art truly a creature without equal, for thou fliest without wings and conquerest without sword." -The Koran From bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Sun Mar 12 22:23:58 EST 1995 Article: 58172 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!bs812 From: bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Janet Malowany) Subject: Re: Problem with earwigs Message-ID: Sender: bs812@freenet3.carleton.ca (Janet Malowany) Reply-To: bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Janet Malowany) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <3jhj7c$bpt@monroe-emh4.army.mil> Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 01:20:20 GMT Lines: 27 Status: O X-Status: In a previous posting, Gary Lambert (gml0@gte.com) writes: > In article <3jhj7c$bpt@monroe-emh4.army.mil>, sinues@prc.prc.mrms.navy.mil > (John C. Sinues) wrote: > >> >> I have earwigs in and around my home. What are the purpose of earwigs? >> Do they pose a potential problem for me? How can I get rid of them? >> Comments and information on these little insects would greatly be >> appreciated. >> >> > Chickens love them, as well as lots of other pests like slugs,etc. I also have earwig problems. What I do is mix soap and water together (try not ot make it very soapy, it will kill the plants too). The mixture should kill the earwigs when it touches them. Sometimes it takes more than one try, but this method works well. Most of the earwigs I find are under my rhubarb, so if you have a rhubarb, BEWARE! Janet -- "Horse, thou art truly a creature without equal, for thou fliest without wings and conquerest without sword." -The Koran From sfo@bu.edu Sun Mar 12 22:24:01 EST 1995 Article: 58173 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!news.bu.edu!sfo From: sfo@bu.edu (Samme Orwig) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Holly and pollination Date: 12 Mar 1995 12:52:52 GMT Organization: Boston University Lines: 8 Message-ID: <3juqr4$afs@news.bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: acs4.bu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Status: O X-Status: When planting different varieties of ilex, must one buy the male pollinator to match each type of female shrub or tree? Thanks. From fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:03 EST 1995 Article: 58174 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!spstimes.sps.mot.com!newsdist.sps.mot.com!risc.sps.mot.com!not-for-mail From: fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq Butt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Is rot a problem with daylilies ? Date: 9 Mar 1995 23:19:09 -0600 Organization: Motorola RISC Software, Austin, Texas Lines: 16 Message-ID: <3jongd$k6s@engage.sps.mot.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: engage.sps.mot.com Status: O X-Status: I just received some nice daylilies. One of them had a teeny little mushy area near the crown. I cut away a small amount of roots and the rest of the plant seems OK. Are bare-root daylilies susceptible to rot, should I do anything else or was even the little I did strictly unecessary ? BTW: a couple of the daylilies had a few roots break off. Should I plant the 1 inch thingies anyway hoping for plants in a year or so ? fmb -- Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightest relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. From proc@skypoint.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:06 EST 1995 Article: 58175 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!skypoint.com!pm1-10.skypoint.net!user From: proc@skypoint.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rototillers Date: 10 Mar 1995 06:45:27 GMT Organization: SkyPoint Communications, Inc. Lines: 22 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: pm1-10.skypoint.net Status: O X-Status: In article , soffiler@stealth.mc.ti.com (Steve Offiler) wrote: > My question is, which rototiller, front-tine or rear-tine? My usage will be > preparation of soil for a respectable size vegetable garden, possibly upwards > of 1000 sq ft. I have an old Farmall Cub with a breaking plow, which will > cut and turn the sod very nicely. With this in mind, I think I can get away > with a smaller and less expensive front-tine tiller of maybe 4HP or so, > hopefully to be purchased used for a low price. > > Your inputs and comments are greatly appreciated. Whatever you get make sure it is a REAR tine tiller.....the front tine ones are junk! I've owned several Troy-Bilt tillers and while they are a tad on the expensive side they last a long time and do the job quite well. Remember plowing just turns the soil over and doesn't prep the soil for planting. You need a tiller to make the soil into something that you can plant into. Troy-Bilt and several other companies make rear tine tillers. I currently have a 5hp Pony tiller that's not only easy to handle but does a fine job of preparing soil for planting. From proc@skypoint.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:08 EST 1995 Article: 58176 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!skypoint.com!pm1-10.skypoint.net!user From: proc@skypoint.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Greenhouse Supplies Date: 10 Mar 1995 06:49:55 GMT Organization: SkyPoint Communications, Inc. Lines: 15 Message-ID: References: <3jln3c$khq@tadpole.fc.hp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pm1-10.skypoint.net Status: O X-Status: In article <3jln3c$khq@tadpole.fc.hp.com>, craig_robson@fc.hp.com wrote: > I'm looking for a mailorder source for greenhouse supplies. I'm looking > for equipment sources not seed sources. > > Does anybody know of any good places? Yep, Mellinger's in Ohio sells everything from Greenhouse supplies to Greenhouses themselves. Phone is 216-549-9861, they have a catalog as well. They are a decent place for supplies although if you are looking for potting medium you are probably better off buying it locally in bulk because of the added shipping expenses incurred. From jrome@k12.ucs.umass.edu Sun Mar 12 22:24:10 EST 1995 Article: 58177 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.duke.edu!eff!news.kei.com!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!news.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!k12.ucs.umass.edu!jrome From: jrome@k12.ucs.umass.edu (Jodi Rome-Avcus (Apponequet RHS)) Subject: Re: What's BLOOMIN' in your part of the land? Message-ID: <1995Mar11.181407.26888@k12.ucs.umass.edu> Sender: usenet@k12.ucs.umass.edu (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: k12.oit.umass.edu Organization: University of Massachusetts K-12 Outreach Date: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 18:14:07 GMT Lines: 16 Status: O X-Status: Well, it's still early March and right now, here in Massachusetts there are no blooms yet. Though a few weeks ago the bulbs were trying desperately to come up. The weather here's been so crazy that plants and people alike don't know what's up with the weather. I write more as something happens. Right now, I'm trying to decide when the last real frost will be so I can plant wildflowers. Just moved into my first house and am having fun planning!!! Bye for now, Jodi -- Have a great day! Jodi Rome-Avrus From pattibelle@delphi.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:13 EST 1995 Article: 58178 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: PATTIBELLE Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gophers Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 00:58:38 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 10 Message-ID: References: <3jq1u3$6qr@martha.utk.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com X-To: Ron Tipton Status: O X-Status: I used Gopher Go on the gopher that decimated my perennial bed last summer. What a mess it made! 25 glads eaten and a number of plants killed whose roots were eaten. You can take a spading fork or one of those root feeder tubes to find underground tunnels. Probe, and the root feeder will sink where there's a burrow. Put the pellets in an active burrow, then cover your excavation with a stepping stone--or anything that will keep the light out. I nailed my gopher in just one day after trying gassing, etc. Happy hunting! Pat in Napa, CA From scwheaton@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:16 EST 1995 Article: 58179 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: scwheaton@aol.com (SCWheaton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want invasive plants Date: 12 Mar 1995 09:36:49 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 6 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jv0u1$jq8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jtgl4$bnt@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: scwheaton@aol.com (SCWheaton) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Three 'great' invasive plants: Monarda(interesting flower as bonus) Physotegia Lysymachia These are tough plants that offer different types of flowers and will take over wherever possible. From stephenc33@ids.net Sun Mar 12 22:24:18 EST 1995 Article: 58180 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!paperboy.ids.net!pslip017 From: stephenc33@ids.net (Stephen Cotroneo) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: WWW site Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 14:45:11 GMT Organization: IDS World Network Internet Access Service, (800)IDS-1680 Lines: 1 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jv1el$42q@paperboy.ids.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: pslip017.pvd-ri.ids.net X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #2.1 Status: O X-Status: Does anyone know of WWW sites on gardening. From kiewicz@oeonline.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:19 EST 1995 Article: 58181 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!m-net!netmeg!oeonline!kiewicz From: kiewicz@oeonline.com (Pat and George Kiewicz) Subject: Re: What are you growing from seed? Organization: Observer & Eccentric News Livonia, MI Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 17:13:53 GMT Message-ID: X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] References: <1995Mar4.212735.2545@olaf.wellesley.edu> Lines: 56 Status: O X-Status: Linda M. French (linda@annie.wellesley.edu) wrote: : What about others? What are you growing? Ignoring vegetables (which means ignoring a large part of what I grow from seed): 1) started indoors already Verbascum phoenicicum 'Flush of White' Salad burnet Viola 'Bowles Black' Gaura lindheimeri Eccremocarpus scaber 2) will start for transplant Torenia baillonii 'Suzy Wong' Cosmos 'Yellow Ladybird' Sweet alyssum 'Snow Crystal' Ipomea quamoclit 3) will seed in place Malope trifida Phacelia 'Tropical surf' California poppies 'Choicest mix' Lavatera trimestris 'Silver Cup' Nigella 'Mulberry rose' Various sunflower varieties ...and maybe more if I don't become too wrapped up in the vegetable garden... And not counting a any flower or herb seeds that are on order and haven't arrived, or seeds I might find compelled to purchase off the rack... If we do start on vegetables there are at least six pepper varieties, ten tomato varieties, three types of eggplant... Better not start on the vegetables! Pat in Plymouth MI I almost forgot... I ordered seeds for a tree (_Franklinia altahama_) this year. -- ==================== We do not speak for the Suburban Communications Corporation. The Suburban Communications Corporation does not speak for us. From scwheaton@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:20 EST 1995 Article: 58182 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: scwheaton@aol.com (SCWheaton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Fertilizing Perennials??? Date: 12 Mar 1995 09:43:09 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 5 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jv19t$jrt@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jtnen$au3@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: scwheaton@aol.com (SCWheaton) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I second the previous advice on bone meal. Perennials need to have healthy root systems and bone meal helps with this better than most other fertilizers that emphasize nitrogen, which helps the foliage. If the plants have healthy roots they'll produce better foliage and flowers, resist disease better, and endure dormancy during tough winters better From mhs@bstorey.Gwinnett.COM Sun Mar 12 22:24:21 EST 1995 Article: 58183 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!emory!gwinnett!bstorey!mhs From: mhs@bstorey.Gwinnett.COM (Storeybrook Farms) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Minature Vegetable Seed Message-ID: Date: Sat, 11 Mar 95 11:16:01 EST Lines: 2 Status: RO X-Status: A If you know of a source for minature veg's please email me mhs@bstorey.gwinnett.com Thanks Mary Storey From mhs@bstorey.Gwinnett.COM Sun Mar 12 22:24:23 EST 1995 Article: 58184 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!emory!gwinnett!bstorey!mhs From: mhs@bstorey.Gwinnett.COM (Storeybrook Farms) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HGTV Message-ID: Date: Sat, 11 Mar 95 11:00:25 EST References: Lines: 26 Status: RO X-Status: mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost) writes: > In article mobabbb@utkvx.utk.ed > >From: mobabbb@utkvx.utk.edu (Meredith Morris-Babb) > >Subject: HGTV > >Date: Wed, 1 Mar 95 19:32:31 GMT > > >I am curious how many of you folks are getting the new HGTV ( Home and > >Garden Network) through your local cable systems. I think it is great > > >I met the folks from HGTV at our local garden show and I promised i would > >ask around about new programming. Any Ideas? I already told them they > >needed to get Jerry Barker on board, but they are willing to listen to just > >about any ideas we (Rec. Garden Collective) may have! > > >Meredith > I am not sure if we get that program in Southern California. Our PBS station > has kind of lost my gardening attention. For one thing, it's > disappointing in the tendency of some garden shows to wander off to exotic > lands with huge estates, leaving us at home with our mundane gardens. I'd be > interested in a more backyard kind of approach. > Regards, Martha > mfrost@primenet.com I couldn't agree more! Give us more old fashion remedies and malladies. Storeybrook Farms From jilla@teal.csn.org Sun Mar 12 22:24:26 EST 1995 Article: 58185 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!csnnews!teal.csn.org!jilla From: jilla@teal.csn.org (Jill Arnson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Heat & Light for Seeds Date: 9 Mar 1995 21:40:14 GMT Organization: Colorado SuperNet, Inc. Lines: 20 Message-ID: <3jnsju$s3s@news-2.csn.net> References: <3jkfgl$hfm@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.117.27.22 Status: O X-Status: In article <3jkfgl$hfm@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, TIGIBSON wrote: >do seedlings have to have artificial light? i'd like to get by with a >southern exposure. input please. A sunny window is fine. However, the AMOUNT of daylight the plants need at this time of year calls for artificial light. You need to give your seedlings (almost any in fact) about 14-16 hours of daylight for them to grow properly. Otherwise you end up with spindly sickly looking things. Thisk about when seeds would come up in nature - its after the last frost where daylight hours are at least 14 hours a day. jill -- Jill C. Arnson Omnipoint Corporation Colorado Springs, Co (but Denver's where I hang my hat) jilla@csn.org From mwalker@iglou.iglou.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:28 EST 1995 Article: 58186 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!iglou!iglou.iglou.com!mwalker From: mwalker@iglou.iglou.com (Mark Walker) Subject: Vegetable Plants From See Message-ID: Sender: news@iglou.com (USENET News Administrator) Organization: IgLou Internet Services Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 14:18:13 GMT Lines: 49 Status: RO X-Status: TO: jmv@cci.com j>Last year I tried growing vegetables from seeds. I read several books j>on the subject - but seemed to do everthing wrong. I planted tomatoes j>and peppers from seeds because I was told these were very easy to do. j>2) I used 2 shop lights for a total of 160 watts of power only about j> six inches away from the pots. When the plant started to grow they j> were long and stringy - I was told I needed more light. The lights should be kept about 2 to 3" away from the plants at all times, that is why your plants got so leggy. Also twelve weeks is way to far in advance cut that back to 6 to 8 weeks. j>Am I missing something or is growing plants from seeds very hard to do j>and only for fun and not economically a good idea. I personally would only grow plants from seed that I can not find at my local garden or farm co-ops, it is cheaper for a greenhouse to propagate the standard beefsteaks etc. than you can start them. j>Is it possible to just get some good outside topsoil, seed it and put j>it in the window. Whats the best thing to use for containers, I am j>looking at about 40 tomato plants and 20 pepper plants. You can use garden soil if it is sterilized first, (boy does it stink when you do it though), if you don't you are asking for trouble. Weeds, insect pests, damping off, etc. Again if you are after the standard plants just buy them unless you really like all the work. (I hate to discourage you but I went through the same thought processes and buy almost all of mine these days). Mark j>______________________________________________________________________ __ j>| ___ j>| | James M. Villard E-mail: jmv@cci.com j>| j>|_____________________________________________________________________ __ j>____| j> --- ţ CMPQwk #1.4ţ UNREGISTERED EVALUATION COPY From billyfish@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:29 EST 1995 Article: 58187 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!emory!swrinde!pipex!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: billyfish@aol.com (BillyFish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Tree tomatoes Date: 11 Mar 1995 10:58:41 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 8 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jshbh$4ac@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: billyfish@aol.com (BillyFish) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I saw an advertisment for tree tomatoes. The pictures looked like cut tomatoes. The hype said the were tomatoes and tasted great. The price was reasonable. Somehow, I get the feeling that they are trying to sucker me. What can anyone tell me about tree tomatoes? William Buchman From LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU Sun Mar 12 22:24:31 EST 1995 Article: 58188 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!cronkite.ocis.temple.edu!VM.TEMPLE.EDU!LEAPDJWV From: LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: cats and ponds, other visitors? Date: Sat, 11 Mar 95 10:43:31 EST Organization: Temple University Lines: 32 Message-ID: <1735E96D8S86.LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU> References: <3jr2el$pi5@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: vm.temple.edu Status: O X-Status: I've enjoyed watching cat visits to my small garden pond. It seems to be a draw for cats, mine & others. My cat will run from the back door to the pond for a drink. Then they check out the plants near the pond before taking a tour of their garden and chasing unwanted visitors. Last fall I noticed how frequently the pond was visited by others and tried to keep it ice free during the winter. I often found dusty paw prints on the ice or in the snow and enjoyed the dance of thirsty squirels trying to break through. My daughter after designing, planting and stocking a large garden pond wondered why she saw far fewer fish than expected. I'm sure it was visited by the neighbor's cat, by racoons but it wasn't until late Spring of the second year when she watched a young heron fishing that she understood where all her expensive Koi had gone. From then her pond purchases were more directed to plants. She and my grand daughter looked forward to the heron's return. The garden pond became a favored place. Taking an artist on a tour grand daughter pointed out plants, flowers, turtles and the surviving fish and there was a story for each. The artist recreated their pond on a child's table and chair set. They moved, leaving the pond but taking her table, chairs and memories of the pond. Recently, I listened as she told her younger brother, who never saw the pond, about the heron who went fishing in her pond and pointed out where on her table. A 3 year old has a wonderful capacity to learn from and enjoy our garden and its visitors. Dave Vanderhoof From bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Sun Mar 12 22:24:32 EST 1995 Article: 58189 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!bs812 From: bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Janet Malowany) Subject: Re: Apples! Message-ID: Sender: bs812@freenet2.carleton.ca (Janet Malowany) Reply-To: bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Janet Malowany) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 15:40:06 GMT Lines: 31 Status: O X-Status: In a previous posting, (featherz@netcom.com) writes: > Hi all! Thanks for all the responses on my lawn/tulip questions. My tulips are > coming up nicely and the lawn looks better, > One more question.. I've just noticed that our (planted dormant in december) 5 > in 1 apple tree actually has apples! They are about the size of a large > marble-one branch has yellowish fruit, the other red. My question is this-now > that the fruit is starting to appear-how can I protect it? (from insects, > mostly). What insects destroy apples? We almost lost an orange tree last > summer from the grasshoppers, and I'd like to see just how big these little > apples will become (I didn't expect any fruit out of these trees this year, so > if they turn out small, ah well..). > I don't notice any insect damage so far, but I want to be prepared. > We're in Zone 9, I believe - Southern California. > Can I cover them with mesh? Horribly disgusting carcinogenic pesticides? :) > > Heather > > > You could always attract birds that eat the insects. :) That's what we do. Janet -- "Horse, thou art truly a creature without equal, for thou fliest without wings and conquerest without sword." -The Koran From noisette@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:34 EST 1995 Article: 58190 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: noisette@aol.com (Noisette) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What's BLOOMIN' in your part of the land? Date: 12 Mar 1995 10:57:59 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 1 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jv5m7$khm@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <1995Mar11.181407.26888@k12.ucs.umass.edu> Reply-To: noisette@aol.com (Noisette) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Azaleas, tulips, and daffodils in Houston. Oh, and beautiful pansies. From lexloci1@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:35 EST 1995 Article: 58191 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lexloci1@aol.com (LEX LOCI 1) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: clematis or hydrangea help Date: 12 Mar 1995 11:03:04 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 2 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jv5vo$kle@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: lexloci1@aol.com (LEX LOCI 1) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: can anyone give me the names for some good, hardy varieties of clematis vines and hydrangeas which are suitable for a shady garden in zone 6? From t12dl7h@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:36 EST 1995 Article: 58192 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: t12dl7h@ix.netcom.com (Timothy Hostetler) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Natural repellants for cats Date: 12 Mar 1995 16:21:39 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 13 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jv72j$b7s@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> References: <3jprfm$eb4@archive.ny.jpmorgan.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-col2-21.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: In <3jprfm$eb4@archive.ny.jpmorgan.com> Jeanne Sweeney writes: > >I have a friend with a stray cat problem in his neighborhood. >(There are dozens.) He doesn't mind the cats but their urine seems >to kill some of his plants. Are there any natural ways to discourage >the cats from entering his garden? I noticed that my dog, who loves oranges (!), backs away from a slightly sqeezed orange peel. I asked my vet about it and was told that citrus is a base for a lot of animal repellents. Try crushing up some grapefruit or orange peels and scattering them about... From swendorf@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu Sun Mar 12 22:24:38 EST 1995 Article: 58193 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!umcc.umich.edu!edcen!edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu!swendorf From: swendorf@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu (Samantha Lynn Wendorf) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: strawberry pots Date: 11 Mar 1995 17:25:03 GMT Organization: Central Michigan University, Mt. Pleasant, MI, USA Lines: 22 Message-ID: <3jsmdf$sm0@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu> References: <46.14040.445@bbs.fullcoll.edu> Reply-To: swendorf@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu (Samantha Lynn Wendorf) NNTP-Posting-Host: edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu Status: O X-Status: I also recently purchased a strawberry pot for my herbs. I am having difficutly watering it at the top. All the water comes out of the top holes. Does anyone have any suggestions? I don't know whether to repot or not. In a previous article, chris_thornton@bbs.fullcoll.edu (Chris Thornton) says: >Hi, >I recently purchased some strawberrys and a strawberry pot to put them >in. However, I was wondering if I need to put some type of pipe with >holes drilled in it. Or do I just water it alot from the top. They are >tri-star berries if it matters. >thanks in advance, chris > >========================================================================== >Fullerton College claims no responsibility to the opinion expressed above! >========================================================================== > -- Samantha Wendorf Life is too short to sweat the details. From cmeaster@pipeline.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:40 EST 1995 Article: 58194 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!news.pipeline.com!not-for-mail From: cmeaster@pipeline.com (Charles L. Measter) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Deer and Fences Date: 12 Mar 1995 11:35:00 -0500 Organization: The Pipeline Lines: 50 Message-ID: <3jv7rk$noi@pipe1.pipeline.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pipe1.pipeline.com Status: O X-Status: rshiell@mcube.com () wrote: >Subject: Deer and Fences >From: rshiell@mcube.com >Date: Mon, 13 Feb 95 16:49:14 EST >Organization: Desert Jewel On-Line Mall > > >Someone please tell me if they've seen anything to >contradict this: > >Seems to me that deer problems for gardeners are mainly >the result of bad land planning, where pockets of >forest are kept for `scenic' value while homes are >built up against the woods, and no fences are put up. > >I've not known neighborhoods where all the backyards >are fenced to have deer problems, unless they are >close to several acres of forest. > >Maybe folks with deer trouble should get everyone >around them to put up fences. > >I know that deer jump like magic, and can easily clear >a 6' fence. But it seems that they are loathe to jump >a series of fences. > >Richard Shiell, ASLA Bakersfield, CA >RShiell@mcube.com > >-- >Mainframes, Minis & Micros | Desert Jewel BBS & >Online Mall 5630 District Blvd. #114 | >Telnet to 204.212.36.4 Bakersfield, CA 93313 >| FTP to 204.212.36.4 LandLine == 800-949-1959 > | WWW to http:\\www@204.212.36.4 In Connecticut I have found the best way to keep the deer away from the garden is to place a salt lick a the far end of the property. The deer go to the lick not the garden. Were we live in Connecticut we all have large peices of land and very few fencesand the deer are a problem but the above seems to work fairly well From Evanne@francis.cerf.net Sun Mar 12 22:24:42 EST 1995 Article: 58195 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!usc!news.cerf.net!news From: Evanne@francis.cerf.net Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Coffee Grounds Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 08:26:29 PDT Organization: CERFnet Lines: 9 Message-ID: <3jv8aq$n6@news.cerf.net> References: <3ja6u7$30s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: default4.ucla.cerfnet.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII X-Newsreader: NEWTNews & Chameleon -- TCP/IP for MS Windows from NetManage Status: O X-Status: Put them in your compost pile or just throw them on the soil. I once heard they were acidic and contained some micronutrients so I throw them around my citrus which can always use more micronutrients. Plus they are totally organic!> > Are coffee grounds good for anything in the garden? From obaniokm@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu Sun Mar 12 22:24:44 EST 1995 Article: 58196 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.Vanderbilt.Edu!NewsWatcher!user From: obaniokm@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu (Keisha O'Banion) Subject: address/phone # for Gardens Alive Message-ID: Followup-To: rec.gardens Sender: news@news.vanderbilt.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: 129.59.192.41 Organization: Learning Technology Center/Vanderbilt University Date: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 17:28:38 GMT Lines: 7 Status: O X-Status: Hi everyone, I've seen lots of folks mention Gardens Alive as a good source for pest control items. Would someone please post the address and phone # ? Thanks, Keisha obaniokm@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu From sundance@cybernetics.net Sun Mar 12 22:24:45 EST 1995 Article: 58197 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!swiss.ans.net!news0.cybernetics.net!sundance.cybernetics.net!sundance From: sundance@cybernetics.net (Al Ross SLIP) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Nursery in Charlotte NC Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 12:19:55 +1000 Organization: Cybernetx, Inc. Lines: 14 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sundance.cybernetics.net X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B] Status: O X-Status: There is a small nursery in Charlotte, that is looking for a partner.... My name is Al Ross at Nature’s Touch Nursery and am located on the north-east part of town. This side of town has great potential, 80% of the residents are new comers. There is unlimited landscape and retail potential. I can’t do it all myself and do much better with a compatible partner. There is 2+ acres and 2 12 by 40 greenhouses and a well. Very small investment. If you have any intersts in this direction.....email Al Ross From plantone@iquest.net Sun Mar 12 22:24:47 EST 1995 Article: 58198 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!dorite!news From: plantone@iquest.net (Stan) Subject: Re: indoor fluorescent lighting Message-ID: Sender: news@dorite.use.com (News Admin) Organization: IQuest Network Services References: <3jn480$ii9@taco.cc.ncsu.edu> Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 16:48:15 GMT Lines: 36 Status: O X-Status: Organization: IQuest Network Services X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.91.6 In article , kc@tiac.net (Kevin Crader) says: >Just got back from the Arnold Arboretum, where alot of cool woodies are >propagated via all techniques. One of the propagators told me, as far as >growing from seed is concerned, they used to recommend a mix of warm and >cool bulbs. Now they recommend cool white alone (although you can still >use both if you want) for the home propagator. In their considerable >growing experience they have seen *no* difference whatsoever. Use the >savings to buy more plants! > >Kevin hey Kevin, what the propagator said is probably right as far as the lamps they used. using ordinary commercial home/office lighting, whether cool or warm, is *not* the same as using colour corrected lamps designed *specifically* for horticulture though. The headings of "cool" and "warm" are general statements used by the lighting industry, which when i started indoor gardening about sixteen years ago, i used in combination, and later switched to just cool white lamps. but continueing experimentation, and the advice of _experts_ in the field of horticulture (specifically indoors under lights) has lead me to the use only lamps designed for horticulture when i am trying to grow plants. i too did not notice much of a different between a mix of cool and warm normal lamps over just cool white, but *i* definately have noticed a heathier/more robust seedling (yielding significantly more in the end) using lamps specifically made to grow plants. Stan From xocmit@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:48 EST 1995 Article: 58199 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: xocmit@aol.com (Xocmit) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: bamboo and ivy problem Date: 12 Mar 1995 12:33:34 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 9 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jvb9e$lpp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: xocmit@aol.com (Xocmit) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Bamboo's a toughie; but if you are content with merely containing it, you can buy plastic that you put in the ground - dig a trench around the bamboo and put teh plastic in vertically, then backfill. You need to get down a foot to be sure you contain it, more wouldn't hurt (don't tell your back that :) ) You can also try to dig up all the culms but that's sure to be a drag if it has spread. I'm a bamboo fan but don't have room for more; post Free Bamboo, maybe somebody will take some away! Good luck Tim From artbieker@delphi.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:50 EST 1995 Article: 58200 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!artbieker From: artbieker@delphi.com (Arthur J. Bieker) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: onion q Date: 12 Mar 1995 18:29:02 GMT Organization: Delphi Internet Services Corporation Lines: 17 Message-ID: <9503121249591.The_Win-D.artbieker@delphi.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1e.delphi.com X-To: Arthur J. Bieker Status: O X-Status: > I love to grow onions but I have a problem. I get lots of top growth but not much bulb. We're talkin' 3 feet high and 2" bulb! The same results for 2 years and 4 varieties. > > Any suggestions for getting more bulb for the buck? > >Bill, My friend who farms onions for a living says use a fertlizer with a big number in the middle. ie. 15-30-15, he says your complaint smacks of two high a nitrogen component, planting to late in the season or both Hope this helps. Arthur J. Bieker artbieker@delphi.com From gfloyd@cris.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:52 EST 1995 Article: 58201 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!warp.cris.com!localhost From: gfloyd@cris.com (Gary Floyd) Newsgroups: rec.ponds,rec.gardens,rec.aquaria Subject: Re: Introducing Pete's *New* Pond Page Date: Sat, 11 Mar 95 17:57:22 GMT Organization: Information Resources Lines: 18 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jvceg$lhc@warp.cris.com> References: <3j7tsd$8hp@fido.asd.sgi.com> <1995Mar8.223718.15819@integrity.uucp> NNTP-Posting-Host: crc4.cris.com Keywords: pond, water garden, www, koi, goldfish, water lily X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #1 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu rec.ponds:1190 rec.gardens:58201 rec.aquaria:53847 Status: O X-Status: grumbo@niagara.com (Grahame Rumsby) wrote: >In article <1995Mar8.223718.15819@integrity.uucp> ronp@mpd.tandem.com (Ron Perez) writes: >Pete Orelup, Silicon Graphics, Inc. (peteo@sgi.com) >(415) 390-3697, Fax: (415) 390-6056, MS: 1-875 >URL: http://reality.sgi.com/employees/peteo/ > >Is anyone else having trouble reaching this site? Is it restricted >to SGI employees only? Let me know, it sounds like a great home-page. > >Ron Perez, Tandem Computers, Inc. Austin, TX (ronp@isd.tandem.com) Homepage loads fine, and looks great. Thanks for telling me about it!! --------------- Gary gfloyd@cris.com --------------- From sfo@bu.edu Sun Mar 12 22:24:54 EST 1995 Article: 58202 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!news.bu.edu!sfo From: sfo@bu.edu (Samme Orwig) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: clematis or hydrangea help Date: 12 Mar 1995 18:06:53 GMT Organization: Boston University Lines: 19 Message-ID: <3jvd7t$gtp@news.bu.edu> References: <3jv5vo$kle@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: acs4.bu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Status: O X-Status: LEX LOCI 1 (lexloci1@aol.com) wrote: : can anyone give me the names for some good, hardy varieties of clematis : vines and hydrangeas which are suitable for a shady garden in zone 6? In zone 6, you should have a lot to choose from -- but is the garden really all that shady? That's not such a problem for hydrangea, but the interesting characteristic about clematis (and other vines) is that the "vining" capability evolved as these plants found a way to reach sunlight from (presumably) shade-dominated environs. So, even if the ground is shady (which clematis will prefer), the vine should have a sunny spot to aim for. I had quick success with: belle of woking nelly moser some of the early blooming macropetalas will tolerate heavy shade. it seems that Wayside has a fairly good selection. From rredd@omni.voicenet.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:56 EST 1995 Article: 58203 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!nova.voicenet.com!ivyland22.voicenet.com!rredd From: Ray Redd Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: DAYLILIES.. Date: 12 Mar 1995 03:38:31 GMT Organization: DSC/Voicenet - BBS/Unix Shells/SLIP/NEWS - (215)443-7390 Lines: 5 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jtqbn$gpr@nova.voicenet.com> References: <1995Mar9.151953.7669@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil> NNTP-Posting-Host: ivyland22.voicenet.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Newsreader: Nuntius 2.0_PPC X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 03:41:45 GMT Status: O X-Status: In article <1995Mar9.151953.7669@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil> Glenn T. Welsh, welshg@rl.af.mil writes: >Anyone out there interested in Daylilies? I love daylilies. Now what? From rredd@omni.voicenet.com Sun Mar 12 22:24:58 EST 1995 Article: 58204 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!nova.voicenet.com!ivyland22.voicenet.com!rredd From: Ray Redd Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What's BLOOMIN' in your part of the land? Date: 12 Mar 1995 04:08:41 GMT Organization: DSC/Voicenet - BBS/Unix Shells/SLIP/NEWS - (215)443-7390 Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jts49$h22@nova.voicenet.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: ivyland22.voicenet.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Newsreader: Nuntius 2.0_PPC X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 04:11:55 GMT Status: O X-Status: In article Scott shy, shyguy@bbs.gatecom.com writes: >Subject: Re: What's BLOOMIN' in your part of the land? Same as for the last 3 weeks or so, when the day warms up: Chinese witch hazel. The winter aconite is fading, and the big wind last week pretty much finished up the snowdrops. My first crocus came up this morning, and there are some daffodil buds showing. Some of my neighbors have species crocuses out, and I met a woman Thursday whose pussy willows were suitable for petting. Jennifer Stiller Haverford PA The line dividing zone 7 from zone 6 appears to run through my driveway... From billyfish@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:02 EST 1995 Article: 58205 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: billyfish@aol.com (BillyFish) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: New (a)salts for slugs Date: 12 Mar 1995 13:23:02 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 18 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jve66$mfa@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: billyfish@aol.com (BillyFish) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Slug killing is a popular subject on this newsgroup. Using common salt (sodium chloride) seems to be a good slug killer by many accounts, but many people do not want to use it because it is detrimental to the soil. My guess is that salt work by osmosis. That is, it sucks water out of the snail or slug. Other salts have this characterist. Thus, if a salt that is not detrimental to the soil is used on the slugs, it should also be effective. In fact there are salts that would be beneficial. The first that comes to mind is ammonium sulfate. It is often used as a fertilizer to supply nitrogen and acidify the soil. Potassium cloride certainly comes to mind. Epsom salt, magnesium sulfat, may work. It is often discussed here as a soil improver. One can come up with a list of such salts that include nitrates and phosphates etc. Okay now. If you experiment, please post results William Buchman From Gordon_Croft@Mindlink.bc.ca Sun Mar 12 22:25:03 EST 1995 Article: 58206 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!agate!news.mindlink.net!news From: Gordon Croft Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Paw Paw tree??? Date: 12 Mar 1995 18:34:30 GMT Organization: MIND LINK! Communications Corp. Lines: 8 Message-ID: <3jverm$phj@deep.rsoft.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: line06.nwm.mindlink.net Status: O X-Status: Anyone know anything about the Paw Paw tree? It is suppose to grow on the west coast of Canada (where we live) but I know nothing of the quality of the fruit. Thanks in advance, Gord From dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU Sun Mar 12 22:25:04 EST 1995 Article: 58207 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!agate!news.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn From: dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: indoor fluorescent lighting Date: 12 Mar 1995 18:41:24 GMT Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences Lines: 23 Message-ID: <3jvf8k$8kl@morrow.stanford.edu> References: <3jn480$ii9@taco.cc.ncsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: pangea.stanford.edu Status: O X-Status: In article , kc@tiac.net (Kevin Crader) says: [Argument that plain fluorescent tubes work fine for plants deleted] Then, In article plantone@iquest.net (Stan) writes: [Argument that special grow lights are needed deleted] Just another datum.... Stan says that the professional growers Kevin talked to must have meant "horticultural cool whites" when they said "cool whites." Not necessarily. Some growers must think grow lights work better (since someone must buy them!), but not all of growers think that. I was at Orchard Supply Hardware, and one of the managers there (who would have every reason to want me to buy the grow lights, since they were *50* times more expensive-- no kidding!) said "well, I have run a greenhouse for years, and I find that these work just fine." He directed me to the plain fluorescent tubes that were on sale for $.49 each. I bought 2 :). My plants are doing quite well (brandywine tomatoes, ancho peppers and tomatillos). I have the lights only an inch or two from the leaves. If your plants are 6" from the lights, they are getting only 1/3 as much light as they would if they were 2" from the lights. Fluorescent lights aren't hot, so don't be afraid to really get 'em close. Dawn From raiar@vulcan.inlink.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:05 EST 1995 Article: 58208 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.starnet.net!wupost!thor.inlink.com!vulcan.inlink.com!raiar From: raiar@vulcan.inlink.com (Gary V. Deutschmann Sr.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Novice looking for weird plants Date: 12 Mar 1995 04:28:19 GMT Organization: inlink Lines: 8 Message-ID: <3jtt93$1ei@thor.inlink.com> References: <3jh0qm$rp@inforamp.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: vulcan.inlink.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Keep an eye on your local garden shops, they usually have Venus Fly traps every spring. If you really want unusual plants, take some flower seeds to your dentinst and have him X-ray the packages. In some cases, you will come out with some real beauts. Gary From raiar@vulcan.inlink.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:06 EST 1995 Article: 58209 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.starnet.net!wupost!thor.inlink.com!vulcan.inlink.com!raiar From: raiar@vulcan.inlink.com (Gary V. Deutschmann Sr.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Hydroponics Date: 12 Mar 1995 04:34:01 GMT Organization: inlink Lines: 5 Message-ID: <3jttjp$1ei@thor.inlink.com> References: <3jan0h$7v8@comet.connix.com> <3js5c4$ak6@shore.shore.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: vulcan.inlink.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Hi Bill The only way to go is to use Hydro-Sol and then add to that whatever you need. In any case never add or use urea or ammonium based salts. Gary Deutschmann, Ci hief Olericulturist, EcoTek Hydroculture, Inc. From ba600@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Sun Mar 12 22:25:07 EST 1995 Article: 58210 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ba600 From: ba600@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mike Kenzie) Subject: Re: Natural repellants for cats Message-ID: Sender: ba600@freenet3.carleton.ca (Mike Kenzie) Reply-To: ba600@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mike Kenzie) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <3jprfm$eb4@archive.ny.jpmorgan.com> Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 19:06:54 GMT Lines: 16 Status: O X-Status: In a previous posting, Jeanne Sweeney (sweeney_jeanne@jpmorgan.com) writes: > Are there any natural ways to discourage the cats from entering his garden? I've always found that a noisy dog works :) When I used to let my cats out the neighbours dog used to do a pretty good job of keeping them on my side of the fence. When my dog was out as well the cats stayed on the porch, or came in. -- @ @ ('> @ @ @ @ | @ | @ ,',) @ | @ | @ | @ \|/\|/\|/\|/\|/ ''<< \|/\|/\|/\|/\|/\|/\|/ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ From revans@msbbs.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:09 EST 1995 Article: 58211 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!news.xmission.com!news From: revans@msbbs.com (Ruth Evans) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Where to find Sweet W Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 12:18:23 Organization: CCUBB (A Great BBS) Lines: 31 Distribution: world Message-ID: <19950312.79A67C8.B186@msbbs.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: msbbs.com Status: O X-Status: >Sweet woodruff needs to be watered alot the first year then alot >less the rest of its life. Once it gets established. Here in the >raleigh, nc area any plant like that I plant in the fall. >Especially if its not near my water supplies. >I would be interested in where I can get some sweet wooddruf as >well. > > In article <3jgb8o$8d6@tadpole.fc.hp.com>, Paul Dineen >(pld@fc.hp.com) writes: >Steven M. Begley (sbegley@omni.voicenet.com) >wrote: >: Hi, gang! >>: Can anyone offer a suggestion on where one can find Sweet Woodr >(Galium >>: odoratum) around Philadelphia, PA? I can't find anyone who grows it. >> >> Sorry, I can't help with where to buy them in PA. >> Give Bluestone Perennials a call. Their number is 1-800-852-5243. They are a mail order firm in Ohio. Their plants are small, but I've had GREAT success with them. Their product code is ASOD and it costs $3.95 for 3 plants or $7.50 for 6. Their planting guide says "for a shady, even dry spot. The foliage is fragrant. BTW: I'm not affilated with Bluestone Perennials in anyway. I just order from them annually to help out my new house owner budget! Ruth Evans __ ___ __ __ ////\ /\/\ /\/ _//\ __ /// | Anne McCaffrey: Master Word Crafter| \\\//// '\/ \/ / /\/ '\\\\/// | Princess: Cutest Wiggle Tail Ever!| \XX/ \/\/\/\/\/\/\__/\/\/ \XX/ | revans@vrb.com or revans@msbbs.com | From revans@msbbs.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:10 EST 1995 Article: 58212 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!news.xmission.com!news From: revans@msbbs.com (Ruth Evans) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Milkweed--where to fi Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 12:18:27 Organization: CCUBB (A Great BBS) Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: <19950312.79A67C8.B254@msbbs.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: msbbs.com Status: O X-Status: >>steven@rain.org () wrote: >>> >>> I would like to know where Milkweed can be obtained? I work at a ga >>> center and none of my plant material suppliers have it. Can someone >>> me the botanical name? I can't find it in the most basic garden boo >>> Sunset is useless, much to my surprise. Thanks in advance. >>> Milkweed is kind of a generic name for plants that produce a "milk." There are many different kinds. From t12dl7h@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:11 EST 1995 Article: 58213 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: t12dl7h@ix.netcom.com (Timothy Hostetler) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Paw Paw tree??? Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:25:27 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 15 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jvhr7$fs2@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> References: <3jverm$phj@deep.rsoft.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-col1-04.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: In <3jverm$phj@deep.rsoft.bc.ca> Gordon Croft writes: > >Anyone know anything about the Paw Paw tree? > >It is suppose to grow on the west coast of Canada (where we live) but >I know nothing of the quality of the fruit. Grows wild in Ohio. Quite popular some years ago with the Indians. It's got big leaves. Grows in shaded areas...under the canopy so to speak...in woods around here. I've never eaten the fruit but the munchkins in the woods (sqirrels, deer, etc) supposedly do. Of course, the "wildlife" around here will eat a Big Mac if you give it to them. -Tim- From ba600@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Sun Mar 12 22:25:12 EST 1995 Article: 58214 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ba600 From: ba600@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mike Kenzie) Subject: Help with VERMI-composting Message-ID: Sender: ba600@freenet3.carleton.ca (Mike Kenzie) Reply-To: ba600@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mike Kenzie) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 19:18:19 GMT Lines: 29 Status: O X-Status: Well it's ben 3 months since the last fiasco when I tried to harvest the compost, I need some advise on how to get the compot out from the worms. The last time I noticed a large number of eggs, and young worms in the compost so I put it aside to let them hatch and grow, now I have 2 containers. How can I get the worms out of the compost? How long does it take for the eggs to hatch? Is there an easy way to get the uncomposted material out of the finished product? Can it be put back it with the worms for a second try? Are there some things that even the worms won't eat? They seem to have trouble with the boston fern "roots" and some plant leaves. Can the compost be used directly on my house plants? I've found that the shredded news paper gets matted down, is there a better bedding material? I've found that by placing a moist newspaper over the top of the compost I've eliminated the fruitfly problem, as well as the mushrooms. -- @ @ ('> @ @ @ @ | @ | @ ,',) @ | @ | @ | @ \|/\|/\|/\|/\|/ ''<< \|/\|/\|/\|/\|/\|/\|/ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ From june4@interaccess.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:13 EST 1995 Article: 58215 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!interaccess!fd25.net.interaccess.com!june4 From: June Meyer Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Christine Owens postings Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:26:55 GMT Organization: Creative Services Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jvhtv$2le@nntp.interaccess.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: fd25.net.interaccess.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Newsreader: Nuntius 2.0.3_68K X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 19:27:20 GMT Status: O X-Status: In article Ian, grumbo@niagara.com writes: >I am impressed Christine.. U had an answer for EVERYONE ;^} I learned more from Christine's multi postings than I did in a semester of study. Thanks Christine. From sean@pathfinder.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:14 EST 1995 Article: 58216 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!alterdial.uu.net!not-for-mail From: Sean Callahan Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: WWW site Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:54:23 GMT Lines: 14 Message-ID: <3jvjhf$bf0@alterdial.UU.NET> References: <3jv1el$42q@paperboy.ids.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: 199.171.143.115 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To: stephenc33@ids.net X-URL: news:3jv1el$42q@paperboy.ids.net Status: O X-Status: The Virtual Garden has - literally - thousands of WWW pages. The illustrated encyclopedia has 1,500 alone. You can read the gardening content of Southern Living and Sunset magazines, excerpts from garden books, download how-to garden projects as Acrobat files. There's a house plant pavillion with its own illustrated directory and much more every week. If your new to the online world, this is the place to start. Sean Callahan sean@pathfinder.com Managing Editor, Time Life Digital Visit the Virtual Garden at http://pathfinder.com/vg From Hornung@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu Sun Mar 12 22:25:15 EST 1995 Article: 58217 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!slip-23-7.ots.utexas.edu!user From: Hornung@utxvms.cc.utexas.edu (Bill Hornung) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Growing Lichens Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:57:56 GMT Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin, Texas Lines: 4 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: slip-23-7.ots.utexas.edu Status: O X-Status: Does anybody know how to grow/plant lichens on rock? I am building a rock garden in my back yard. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Bill From jasonp@u.washington.edu Sun Mar 12 22:25:16 EST 1995 Article: 58218 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!nntp.cac.washington.edu!jasonp From: jasonp@u.washington.edu (Jason Petteway) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: The "Fly" Plant Date: 10 Mar 1995 20:47:39 GMT Organization: University of Washington Lines: 17 Message-ID: <3jqdtb$gui@nntp1.u.washington.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: homer20.u.washington.edu Status: O X-Status: Help! I bought a great plant from a local nursery last year. They labeled it only as the "fly plant." It is a great annual plant, obviously related to the tomatillos, tomatoes, and ground cherries (Solanum sp) because it has somewhat similar leaves and after a flower fades, it makes a tomatillo-like berry in a husk. The plant gets about 2 feet high and is covered all summer with upright-facing sky blue flowers, not unlike a datura or even a morningglory flower. I've searched and searched for a botanical ("scientific") name, it grows easily from seed, does anyone have more information on this great performer? Thanks! Jason From runderwo@plains.NoDak.edu Sun Mar 12 22:25:17 EST 1995 Article: 58219 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!ns1.nodak.edu!plains!runderwo From: runderwo@plains.NoDak.edu (Robert Underwood) Subject: Salt-bush Sender: usenet@ns1.nodak.edu (Usenet login) Message-ID: Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 20:35:37 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: plains.nodak.edu Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Lines: 11 Status: O X-Status: Can anyone give me a source to purchase salt-bush shrubs for a shelterbelt planting in alkalyi soils? If so please e-mail me or post a folowup. Thank you, >From the Forests of North Dakota! Bob Underwood, Urban Forestry, NDSU-Bottineau From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Sun Mar 12 22:25:18 EST 1995 Article: 58220 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seeking Date: 10 Mar 1995 21:04:16 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 21 Message-ID: <3jqesg$2vm@post.its.mcw.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: billyz@primenet.com (BillyZee) wrote: > > Growing up in the Midwest, there was a plant which grew along the country > fencerows we called Bittersweet- sorry, I don't know the botanical term. > It is used as an autumnn decoration and has small bright orange berries > that bloom out of a tan pod. Branches are 1-2 feet long. I have been > searching for plantstock of this for months to plant in Northern > California. No luck. Does ANYBODY have any information on what this is > really called and where I can acquire stock or seed? Thanks for any help. > E-mail billyz@primenet.com Here in the midwest (Wisconsin), the common bittersweet is Celastrus scandens. Most garden catalogs carry it and it may be offered under the name C. orbiculare. Two named cultivars are Indian Brave (male) and Indian Maiden (female), so here I should warn you that bittersweet has male and female flowers. on different plants and if you are buying unsexed plants, it's best to buy 3 or 4 just to make sure that you get the attractive fruit that you seek. Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu From jmv@cci.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:20 EST 1995 Article: 58221 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!udel!rochester!rit!sunsrvr6!jmv From: jmv@cci.com (James Villard) Subject: Vegetable Plants From Seeds - NOT! Message-ID: Sender: root@sunsrvr6.cci.com (Operator) Organization: Northern Telecom Inc., D&OS Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 19:16:02 GMT Lines: 59 Status: O X-Status: Last year I tried growing vegetables from seeds. I read several books on the subject - but seemed to do everthing wrong. I planted tomatoes and peppers from seeds because I was told these were very easy to do. 1) I used peat pots instead of the plastic pots. When it was time to transplant no matter how careful I was every pot broke open and all the roots spilled out. 2) I used 2 shop lights for a total of 160 watts of power only about six inches away from the pots. When the plant started to grow they were long and stringy - I was told I needed more light. They also grew straight at the nearest light curving the stems - I tried rotating them every few days - finally they look like a silly straw. Yes I tin foiled all the way around. 3) I was told both seeds would germinate at room temperature - only the tomato plants did I had the heat up the pepper seeds to get them to germinate. 4) They did not seem to grow much. The first 2 weeks they did great - then after about 2 - 3 inches high - they just stopped growing - nice and green but didn't grow any more. 5) Another thing I don't get is the cost, the trays, the seeds, the soil. The electricity is 12 weeks,16 hours a day,160watts, $0.11 a kilowatt. That comes up to $23.65 just for electric. I can get good solid plants for $1.99 for 6 - thats at least 72 plants I can buy from the store from the money for the electric. Am I missing something or is growing plants from seeds very hard to do and only for fun and not economically a good idea. I live in Rochester N.Y. (upstate) I would like to try it again this year - I think I would enjoy it but the how-to books really put me on the wrong track. Last year I tried the hi-tech expensive way of growing seeds - purchasing everything I needed. Is it possible to just get some good outside topsoil, seed it and put it in the window. Whats the best thing to use for containers, I am looking at about 40 tomato plants and 20 pepper plants. Is the March and April sun in upstate N.Y. even strong enough of should I just forget about it. ___________________________________________________________________________ | | | James M. Villard E-mail: jmv@cci.com | |___________________________________________________________________________| From keziak@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:21 EST 1995 Article: 58222 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: keziak@aol.com (Kezia K) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: witch hazel bloom time - update Date: 12 Mar 1995 15:15:08 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 10 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jvkoc$o1v@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: keziak@aol.com (Kezia K) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Hi all -- A while ago I asked when witch hazel bloomed, and it sounded like most bloomed in the fall. Well, mine is blooming now! It's very pretty,with lemon yellow flowers. I think it's virginiana. Also have pussy willows in open bud. KeziaK Northern VA From nadine@seymour.ucs.ualberta.ca Sun Mar 12 22:25:23 EST 1995 Article: 58223 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.mindlink.net!news.bc.net!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!nadine From: nadine@seymour.ucs.ualberta.ca (Nadine Leenders) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Yellow Leaves on Impatients Date: 10 Mar 1995 20:59:33 GMT Organization: Computing and Network Services, U of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada Lines: 22 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jqejl$1ip0@rover.ucs.ualberta.ca> References: <3jiqce$hli@rover.ucs.ualberta.ca> <3jl520$r38@rover.ucs.ualberta.ca> <1995Mar8.170535.39904@cobra.uni.edu> <3jpool$nlo@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: solstice.ucs.ualberta.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Susan Sanders (ssanders@umich.edu) wrote: : In article <3jiqce$hli@rover.ucs.ualberta.ca> Nadine Leenders, : nadine@seymour.ucs.ualberta.ca writes: : >I've got some Impatients plants that are about 2 months old that : >have the occasional leaf at the top of the plant turning yellow. : Another suggestion: What kind of lights are they under and how close are : they? Is it possible those upper leaves are getting too warm? : -Sue Sanders They're about 2-3" from fluorescent lights, I think they should be fine temp wise if about 80F is OK. The roots might be significantly cooler than the tops because of the drafts in the room. -- Nadine Leenders | nadine.leenders@ualberta.ca Computing and Network Services | (403) 492-9349 University of Alberta Edmonton, Alberta Canada T6G 2H1 From stinson@access.thegroup.net Sun Mar 12 22:25:25 EST 1995 Article: 58224 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!noc.thegroup.net!access.thegroup.net!stinson From: stinson@access.thegroup.net (KPBS) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Border plants... Date: 10 Mar 1995 21:02:44 GMT Organization: Data Transfer Group Lines: 1 Message-ID: <3jqepk$6ph@noc.thegroup.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: access.thegroup.net X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: From rshiell@mcube.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:26 EST 1995 Article: 58225 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcomsv!uucp3.netcom.com!mcube.com!rshiell Subject: Re: Camellias Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: rshiell@mcube.com Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 11:12:38 EST Message-ID: <7788229316402@mcube.com> Organization: Desert Jewel On-Line Mall Lines: 27 Status: O X-Status: Contact a local garden center to find out where you can have a soil text done. Dig out a sample of soil by the camellias as directed, and see what they tell you. Chances are the soil is too alkaline, or lacking in some trace element. If you haven't been fertilizing the soil, it could even be a nutrient deficiency. If the flower buds you mentioned are as big as hazelnuts, they're flower buds. If the buds are elongated, about the size of half an almond meat (cut lengthwise), they're just leaf buds. IJ>I've had my camellia for about 2 years now and each winter it produces IJ>buds which never bloom. I don't know if the location is too shady or if IJ>it is the soil (which I plan to check soon). I would appreciate any IJ>information to help my camellia produce flowers! Richard Shiell, ASLA Bakersfield, CA RShiell@mcube.com --- ţ SLMR 2.1a ţ Old gardeners don't die, they just go to seed. -- Mainframes, Minis & Micros | Running MajorBBS and Internet! 5630 District Blvd. #114 | Desert Jewel BBS & OnLine Mall Bakersfield, CA 93313 | Discounted Hardware & Software LandLine == 800-949-1959 | BBS == 805-397-2063 14.4 n-8-1 From sfo@bu.edu Sun Mar 12 22:25:28 EST 1995 Article: 58226 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!news.bu.edu!sfo From: sfo@bu.edu (Samme Orwig) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Milkweed--where to fi Date: 12 Mar 1995 20:36:24 GMT Organization: Boston University Lines: 16 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jvm08$juc@news.bu.edu> References: <19950312.79A67C8.B254@msbbs.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: acs2.bu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Status: O X-Status: Asclepias ... commonly offered as asclepias tuberosa, with "Gay Butterflies" among the most extroverted with its bold colors. Ruth Evans (revans@msbbs.com) wrote: : >>steven@rain.org () wrote: : >>> : >>> I would like to know where Milkweed can be obtained? I work at a ga : >>> center and none of my plant material suppliers have it. Can someone : >>> me the botanical name? I can't find it in the most basic garden boo : >>> Sunset is useless, much to my surprise. Thanks in advance. : >>> : Milkweed is kind of a generic name for plants that produce a "milk." : There are many different kinds. From nadine@seymour.ucs.ualberta.ca Sun Mar 12 22:25:30 EST 1995 Article: 58227 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!sunserver.insinc.net!news.bc.net!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!nadine From: nadine@seymour.ucs.ualberta.ca (Nadine Leenders) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Starting seeds using an electric blanket as a soil warmer Date: 12 Mar 1995 20:47:09 GMT Organization: Computing and Network Services, U of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada Lines: 30 Message-ID: <3jvmkd$99g@rover.ucs.ualberta.ca> References: <3jtvod$p78@alaska.nwlink.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: solstice.ucs.ualberta.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: mark (markm@nwlink.com) wrote: : briana@tc.fluke.COM (Brian Aikins) wrote: : > : > : > : > I'm thinking of starting vegetable seeds in watertight domed : > trays (flats) resting on a folded electric blanket set to : > keep the soil at 70 degrees F. I'll have to confirm that : > inner layers of the blanket don't get too hot. The ambient : > room temperature is 58 to 65 degrees. : > : > Is this a good idea or a really bad idea? Has anyone tried this? : > Other suggestions for a temporary low cost seed warmer? : I have used a heating pad for years and it has worked great though it I used a heating pad once, too. I also had a thingy for measuring the soil temp and turning off the pad if it got too warm. This year I measured the heat under my lights and found out from the experts here on the net that the heat from the lights was enough without any extra heat source, for the type of plant I'm growing. -- Nadine Leenders | nadine.leenders@ualberta.ca Computing and Network Services | (403) 492-9349 University of Alberta Edmonton, Alberta Canada T6G 2H1 From jpgallatin@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:32 EST 1995 Article: 58228 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jpgallatin@aol.com (JPGallatin) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: State Arboretum of Virginia Date: 12 Mar 1995 15:52:35 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 3 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jvmuj$oje@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: jpgallatin@aol.com (JPGallatin) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: We strongly support the State Arboretum of Virginia. We would like to use Internet to spread the word about major events at the Arboretum. Any other ideas? From H_TAYLOR@delphi.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:33 EST 1995 Article: 58229 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!tribune.usask.ca!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!news.bc.net!torn!uunet.ca!uunet.ca!richtr!news From: H_TAYLOR@delphi.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: subscribe Message-ID: <01HNWQS8RLS8938SAZ@delphi.com> Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 22:19:55 -0500 Sender: news@richters.com Lines: 1 Status: O X-Status: subscribe From mms@tucson.princeton.edu Sun Mar 12 22:25:36 EST 1995 Article: 58230 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uop!pacbell.com!gw2.att.com!gw1.att.com!princeton!tucson.princeton.edu!mms From: mms@tucson.princeton.edu (Margaret M. Steinbugler) Subject: Re: Is "Roundup" Good for Ind. Weeds? (Was: Lawn) Message-ID: <1995Mar9.211518.15011@Princeton.EDU> Originator: news@hedgehog.Princeton.EDU Sender: news@Princeton.EDU (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: tucson.princeton.edu Organization: Princeton University References: <3jkhku$d5t@werner.cs.mtu.edu> <3jkvlf$5u8@news.iastate.edu> Date: Thu, 9 Mar 1995 21:15:18 GMT Lines: 19 Status: O X-Status: Someone (sorry, I lost the name) wrote: > >I have used Round Up and have never had a problem with it. It becomes >inactive when it comes into contact with soil and leaves no residue. It >can, however, kill any plant that it comes in contact with and should >never be used around streams and ponds. I am not sure how long the >chemical stays active on the leaves after application. > >In general its a fairly safe chemical. >sdb Question: Is Roundup good as a spot week killer, say, for spraying dandelions as they come up in the lawn? Would it kill too much of the surrounding grass? Is there a better way to get rid of dandelions than pulling (which keeps me from weeding the garden) (-: ? Margaret Steinbugler mms@princeton.edu From mcalvert@spartan.ac.BrockU.CA Sun Mar 12 22:25:40 EST 1995 Article: 58231 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!spartan.ac.BrockU.CA!mcalvert From: mcalvert@spartan.ac.BrockU.CA (Murray Brain Calvert) Subject: Re: Seeking "Bittersweet", the plant Message-ID: <1995Mar10.180439.4938@spartan.ac.BrockU.CA> Organization: Brock University, St. Catharines Ontario X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL9] References: Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 18:04:39 GMT Lines: 19 Status: O X-Status: BillyZee (billyz@primenet.com) wrote: : Growing up in the Midwest, there was a plant which grew along the country : fencerows we called Bittersweet- sorry, I don't know the botanical term. : It is used as an autumnn decoration and has small bright orange berries : that bloom out of a tan pod. Branches are 1-2 feet long. I have been : searching for plantstock of this for months to plant in Northern : California. No luck. Does ANYBODY have any information on what this is : really called and where I can acquire stock or seed? Thanks for any help. : E-mail billyz@primenet.com Sounds like Bittersweet Nightshade (Solanum dulcamera). Related to the tomato, but berries are poisonous. It grows wild along the fencerows in Ontario, with purple and yellow flowers, generally pointing downward. Berries are egg-shaped, about 1/2 inch long, in clusters of a dozen or more. It would be hard to find seed now, but I could collect some in the fall for planting next spring. Brian Calvert (mcalvert@spartan.ac.brocku.ca) From dchen@ctp.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:42 EST 1995 Article: 58232 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!psinntp!ctp!ctp!news From: dchen@ctp.com (Denys Chen) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Organic Lawn Care Date: 12 Mar 1995 16:03:16 -0500 Organization: Cambridge Technology Partners Lines: 28 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jvnik$e32@looney.ctp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: looney.ctp.com Status: RO X-Status: Question 1: What is the most effective organic lawn fertilizer ? A local home store recommended Milorganite (6-2-0). It's from Milorganite Division - MMSD, Milwaukee. It claims to be "organic". One other fertilizer I saw at local store is Lawn Restore (10-2-6) from Ringer Corp. of Minneapolis. The product is claimed to be "Natural". (Is that different from organic ?) Does anyone have any expereince with these two fertilizers ? Is it effective ? Or do you know any other organic fertilizer you'd recommend ? Question 2: My lawn is being attacke by, I think, moles. They dig conical holes of 1 to 2 inch in diameter and about 1 to 2 inch deep on my lawn. The lawn is next to a wooded land, thus it's not a feasible solution to trap or kill the moles. So I have to kill the grubs under my lawn. But I want to do it organically. I heard about milky spore desease. But, again, the local home store recommend a new *organic* pestcide called Biosafe. Has anyone used the new product ? Is it effective and is it really organic ? Reply by e-mail (dchen@ctp.com) preferred but posting is fine. Thank you in advance. -- /\/\ |Denys Chen dchen@ctp.com | / /_.\|Cambridge Technology Partners, Inc.| Be OO or be SQUARE. \ /./|304 Vassar St. Cambridge, MA 02139| \/\/ |Desk:617 374-8271 Fax:617 374-8300| From tigibson@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:44 EST 1995 Article: 58233 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help with VERMI-composting Date: 12 Mar 1995 16:53:28 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 5 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jvqgo$pbo@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: RO X-Status: i just started my worm bin and i need to know how much moisture to provide. the book i've read is really unclear about it. help!! tigibson From marlap1041@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:45 EST 1995 Article: 58234 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: marlap1041@aol.com (MarlaP1041) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: last frost date for Boston? Date: 12 Mar 1995 17:01:34 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 1 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jvqvu$pf2@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: marlap1041@aol.com (MarlaP1041) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I live on the Cape and I don't plant tender things out until Memorial Day. From LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU Sun Mar 12 22:25:46 EST 1995 Article: 58235 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!netnews.upenn.edu!cronkite.ocis.temple.edu!VM.TEMPLE.EDU!LEAPDJWV From: LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: vegetable plants for containers Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 16:49:59 EST Organization: Temple University Lines: 25 Message-ID: <1735FECBCS86.LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU> References: <3jn1r6$4au@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jt9io$gi4@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: vm.temple.edu Status: O X-Status: In article <3jt9io$gi4@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net> accord@ibm.net writes: >In <3jn1r6$4au@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, lexloci1@aol.com (LEX LOCI 1) writes: >>Can anyone give me some good varieties of >>vegetables(tomatoes,greens,herbs,spinach) that will grow well in >>containers in an urban garden,specifically Philadelphia? I've grown a variety of tomatoes and lots of that green leafy stuff I add to a salad. Last year my raised beds were much, much smaller than my "need to get in" list so many of the plants I couldn't find homes for - I gave plants at the office and other gatherings - went into containers. I drafted lots of 2nd use buckets from bulk bird seed purchases and construction projects - nothing fancy. I had eggplants, beans, peppers * *. I treated them similar to their sister plants in the raised beds - additional watering was required - and saw little difference in their development or produce. I think I was lucky gardening just across the river from you. I have noticed a number of seed catalogs with specific recomendations for container gardening. I had seen such recomendations from Shepherd's and spoke with Renee Shepherd at the Philadelphia flower show and she confirmed their experience and suggested I container garden with more judicious selection. From LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU Sun Mar 12 22:25:48 EST 1995 Article: 58236 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!cronkite.ocis.temple.edu!VM.TEMPLE.EDU!LEAPDJWV From: LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seed Germination Problems Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 17:07:07 EST Organization: Temple University Lines: 9 Message-ID: <1735FF0C3S86.LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU> References: <3jtht3$c0s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jtnae$ast@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: vm.temple.edu Status: O X-Status: This is my first real effort. All went well, seeds selected, mix just right, paper pots crafted and heat source to keep all warm - seeds planted and notes made. Everything moist and enclosed in plactic. Only 3 days later I noticed some white fungal growth. Off came the plastic and within 2 days most of the white stuff is gone. I've kept the medium moist. A number of herbs have sprouted and otherwise all looks well. Do I have a problem? From LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU Sun Mar 12 22:25:50 EST 1995 Article: 58237 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!news.kei.com!eff!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!cronkite.ocis.temple.edu!VM.TEMPLE.EDU!LEAPDJWV From: LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Saving Seeds Not Used This Year Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 17:18:25 EST Organization: Temple University Lines: 8 Message-ID: <1735FF367S86.LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU> References: <3jtht3$c0s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jtnae$ast@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: vm.temple.edu Status: O X-Status: I've started some seeds with plans for more. I won't use all the seeds in a packet. Some will be used for successive planting but what to do with the leftovers? How do I store them? I understand seeds can be used a year later and in the past I was given seeds saved by a friend's father years ago. Do seed savers have some magic process? From azureus@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:51 EST 1995 Article: 58238 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: azureus@aol.com (Azureus) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Identifying fungus, wildflowers Date: 12 Mar 1995 17:28:27 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 14 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jvsib$pq5@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: azureus@aol.com (Azureus) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I went for a walk in my woods today, and I saw a type of fungus I've never seen before. It was covering the forest floor, attatched to dead wood, and seemed to be flourishing, even though last week was very cold and snowy. Each fungus was *bright* red on the inside, and a dusty pink on the out side. It was vaugely cup-shaped, and very fleshy--it reminded me of red bell peppers. Does this sound familiar to any fungus fanatics out there? The land is located in Iowa, close to the Missouri river, zone 4 or 5, I can never figure out which one we're in. My second question is, can anyone reccommend a good field guide for Iowa (or Midwest) wildflowers and other native plants? Thanks, April From stephie@olympus.net Sun Mar 12 22:25:53 EST 1995 Article: 58239 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!nwnexus!nwnexus!olympus.net!olympus.net!stephie From: stephie@olympus.net (Stephanie Hilt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Greenhouse Supplies Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 09:36:59 UNDEFINED Organization: Internet for the Olympic Peninsula Lines: 13 Message-ID: References: <3jln3c$khq@tadpole.fc.hp.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: papm002.olympus.net X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #1] Status: O X-Status: In article proc@skypoint.com writes: >From: proc@skypoint.com >Subject: Re: Greenhouse Supplies >Date: 10 Mar 1995 06:49:55 GMT >In article <3jln3c$khq@tadpole.fc.hp.com>, craig_robson@fc.hp.com wrote: >> I'm looking for a mailorder source for greenhouse supplies. I'm looking >> for equipment sources not seed sources. Just received catalogue I order from 'Charley's Greenhouse Supply', 1569 Memorial Hwy., Mount Vernon, WA 98273. Ph: 1-800-322-4707. Great catalogue for amateur and professional greenhouse supplies. From jcannoy@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:56 EST 1995 Article: 58240 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jcannoy@aol.com (JCannoy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Camellias Date: 12 Mar 1995 17:38:28 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 10 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jvt54$pvh@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <7788229316402@mcube.com> Reply-To: jcannoy@aol.com (JCannoy) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Richard, Thanks for the camellia tips! I do have flower buds that look like hazelnuts, so at least I'm on the right track. Now all I need to do is check the soil, which is a gray-blue clay. The cooperative extension nearby would probably do a test. Thanks again! Sherrie From dchen@ctp.com Sun Mar 12 22:25:58 EST 1995 Article: 58241 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!psinntp!ctp!ctp!news From: dchen@ctp.com (Denys Chen) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mole euphoria (they're doomed) Date: 12 Mar 1995 17:30:24 -0500 Organization: Cambridge Technology Partners Lines: 26 Message-ID: <3jvsm0$ed7@looney.ctp.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: looney.ctp.com Status: O X-Status: In article jbuckley@btg.com (Jeremy Buckley) writes: >After years of battling the little burrowers with smoke bombs, pinwheels, >and poisons (which I am loathe to use), I think I've found the answer, and >it's spelled N-a-s-h. My Nash mole trap from Mellinger's arrived >yesterday. I quickly unwrapped it, planted it in my back yard, and had my >first victim in a matter of hours. My problem is I can't find their burrows. My lawn is surrounded by about one acre's wooded land and covered with several inches' oak leaves. Anybody has any graet experience to share with me about how to find modle burrows ? Those said on the package of a modle trap isn't effective enough to me. Congratulations Jeremy. I am so bothered by the moles. They dig at least 50 or 60 holes on my 9000 squar feet lawn each day. BTW, will keeping my yard lighted overnight deter the moles ? I also cat can catch or deter moles too; although I feel it's not very nice to keep your cat outdoors in a cold evening. -- /\/\ |Denys Chen dchen@ctp.com | / /_.\|Cambridge Technology Partners, Inc.| Be OO or be SQUARE. \ /./|304 Vassar St. Cambridge, MA 02139| \/\/ |Desk:617 374-8271 Fax:617 374-8300| From stephie@olympus.net Sun Mar 12 22:25:59 EST 1995 Article: 58242 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!nwnexus!nwnexus!olympus.net!olympus.net!stephie From: stephie@olympus.net (Stephanie Hilt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Request for software Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 09:44:30 UNDEFINED Organization: Internet for the Olympic Peninsula Lines: 17 Message-ID: References: <3jibcb$94h@lace.Colorado.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: papm002.olympus.net X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #1] Status: O X-Status: In article <3jibcb$94h@lace.Colorado.EDU> mwrisner@eclat.uccs.edu (AtlantaMan) writes: >From: mwrisner@eclat.uccs.edu (AtlantaMan) >Subject: Request for software >Date: 7 Mar 1995 19:15:22 GMT > A friend of mine wants to post a request. >Are there any images on CD ROM or diskettes of actual shrubberies, >flowers, trees, and the like? He's planning on using the images to >complement visual landscaping designs on the Mac. >Any input would be appreciated. E-Mail at mwrisner@uccs.edu Check with Sunset Magazine. I just ordered their 'Western Garden Book' on CD ROM. Though I noticed you are from Atlanta, I'm sure it will be available in your area as well. Sorry I don't have the phone# or address(it was on the order form I mailed in). Hope this helps. From chenaya.strutton@nwcs.org Sun Mar 12 22:26:01 EST 1995 Article: 58243 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!nwcs!chenaya.strutton From: chenaya.strutton@nwcs.org (Chenaya Strutton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: seedlings for kids Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 19:05:00 GMT Message-ID: <9503101538327975@nwcs.org> Organization: NWCS Online * Oregon USA Distribution: world References: Lines: 22 Status: O X-Status: JG>From: jgolden@cbmse.nrl.navy.mil (Joel Golden) >What's a good plant for a class of kids to sprout seeds? I'm sure you'll get lots of suggestions for this... Radishes, marigolds, leaf-type lettuce, sunflower and alyssum come to mind. And while I think about it, I rememder being enthralled by corn and bean seeds that were sprouted in glass jars. If I remember right, you rolled up stiff paper towels (the kind most schools have) and set them upright in a jar so the paper conforms to the shape of the jar. Then stuffed crumpled paper towels into the center to hold it in place. Then added enough water so that the paper stayed wet but not soggy. Then put bean or corn seeds that had soaked in water over-night in the jars, against the glass about half way up. You might have to add more paper towels to hold everything in place. Anyway, I thought that was great as a kid and I think I was even able to plant them in the garden after the project was done where they were promptly eaten by cutworms. From such memories, a gardener (or bug stomper) is made. Cheryl --- * OLX 2.1 TD * Someone, please, stop me before I plant again! From chenaya.strutton@nwcs.org Sun Mar 12 22:26:06 EST 1995 Article: 58244 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!nwcs!chenaya.strutton From: chenaya.strutton@nwcs.org (Chenaya Strutton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bird feeder without weeds Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 17:17:00 GMT Message-ID: <9503101538317972@nwcs.org> Organization: NWCS Online * Oregon USA Distribution: world References: Lines: 30 Status: O X-Status: PN>From: pnash@metronet.com (Pat Nash) >I have a bird feeder in my back yard (currently over grass, but I will >soon have a garden area for it). The birds are VERY sloppy eaters and >throw half of the seed overboard while they are eating! Any suggestions >on keeping these seeds from germinating - mulch, brick base, etc.? PN>Patrick Nash >pnash@metronet.com Well, it depends on how energetic you feel. We feed only black oily sunflower seeds in our feeders with a few hand fulls of chick scratch scattered around. The chick scratch is very small pieces of corn that can't germinate, and the sunflower seeds don,t go far from the feeder. Every so often, I go out with a scoop shovel or spading fork and remove the shells along with the seeds that do sprout (the stuff seems to form a soft mat and handles about like manure) and toss the mess into my compost pile (if you do this, make sure your pile is hot enough or you'll have seeds sprouting everywhere). If you don't want to fool around that much, Check with your local bird shop or feed store and ask them for shelled broken sunflower seeds. I've never used them myself, but I understand they don't sprout. We've set up our garden with the idea of attracting birds and other wildlife and so a lot of the joy we get from our garden in the winter comes from watching them roam through it. Hope that helps you. Enjoy. Cheryl "Turning The Compost Pile Is My Life" Kuhnert --- * OLX 2.1 TD * Someone, please, stop me before I plant again! From chenaya.strutton@nwcs.org Sun Mar 12 22:26:07 EST 1995 Article: 58245 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!nwcs!chenaya.strutton From: chenaya.strutton@nwcs.org (Chenaya Strutton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bees, how to keep them aw Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 18:10:00 GMT Message-ID: <9503101538327973@nwcs.org> Organization: NWCS Online * Oregon USA Distribution: world References: <3ji98j$389@rigel.infinet.com> Lines: 40 Status: O X-Status: DR>From: rubin@infinet.com (Danial Rubin) >Hi All, DR>I have a problem with bees nesting around my apartment's patio. The >patio is surrounded by trees and there seems to be an abnormal amount >of bees nesting around the area. Last summer there was a nest inside >a wall mounted patio light. Is there any way that I can do something It kind of depends by what you consider BEES. Honey bees shouldn't be a problem since they aren,t normally aggressive. But if the are, any local bee keeper would be glad to come and get them if the problem is a wild hive or swarm. Bumble bees aren't usually aggressive either unless you disturb the nest. However, if you have any of the many types of yellow-jacket hornets, they are often VERY aggressive. We have a mostly organic garden but yellow-jackets are one of the only things I would use insecticide on if I could reach the nest (However, if someone out there knows how to kill a nest safely without poison, I'd love to read it.). Since you're in an apartment, and yellow-jackets can be dangerous, I'd first ask the landlord to deal with nests on the property. If you do have to deal with yellow-jackets yourself, get one of the jet-type sprays that are made just for hornets. Wait till dark, spray the stuff directly into the hole and run like crazy (I'm not kidding). If you simply don't want to use any poisons (I don't blame you), you can put out baited traps (no electric zappers please, they kill everything). Used early in the season, you might catch some of the young queens just starting out and prevent a nest from forming later. Used later in the season, I'm not sure how much good they really do, mostly revenge I think. This is from Portland, Oregon and we had a bad problem with yellow-jackets in our garden last year. Sometimes we could see at least 200 or more buzzing the compost pile, searching for prey. They made it impossible to turn the compost pile (Wait a minute, I think I've got something there. The perfect excuse...). This year, we'll be putting out the baited traps early and I plan to WHAP every yellow-jacket I can reach. Wow, did I ramble... Anyway, I hope that helps... I certainly feel better. Cheryl --- * OLX 2.1 TD * Someone, please, stop me before I plant again! From chenaya.strutton@nwcs.org Sun Mar 12 22:26:09 EST 1995 Article: 58246 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!nwcs!chenaya.strutton From: chenaya.strutton@nwcs.org (Chenaya Strutton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: tomato worms Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 18:25:00 GMT Message-ID: <9503101538327974@nwcs.org> Organization: NWCS Online * Oregon USA Distribution: world References: <3jjer2$g4s@crl5.crl.com> <14413790.1508908@lamg.com> Lines: 10 Status: O X-Status: LE>Years ago someone told me that the stripes on a tomato worm were >florescent under ultra violet light. Since I am one to never leave a >bizarre remedy untested I set out one night with the UV light from an EPROM >eraser (never mind what that is - think of it a a blacklight on Great story Lynn... nearly snorted my morning coffee reading it :) Cheryl --- * OLX 2.1 TD * Someone, please, stop me before I plant again! From ulbrich@ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu Sun Mar 12 22:26:11 EST 1995 Article: 58247 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!uop!pacbell.com!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu!ULBRICH From: ulbrich@ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu Subject: RE: MILKWEED X-Nntp-Posting-Host: ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu Message-ID: Sender: postmaster@ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu Reply-To: ulbrich@ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu Organization: Ohio University Computing & Technology Services Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 22:29:57 GMT Lines: 7 Status: O X-Status: Growing up on a farmer, fighting the milkweeds. I never thought anyone would ever want to grow them. I live in southeastern Ohio, if your looking for Milkweed with blue flowers, we have more than we need or want. I would be able to get them until seasons in, but if you tell me how to get seeds properly. I'd be more than glad to send them to you. Lisa From phil@cyberspace.com Sun Mar 12 22:26:12 EST 1995 Article: 58248 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cyberspace.com!usenet From: Phil@cyberspace.com (Phil Holmes) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: gardening and landscaping Date: 11 Mar 1995 00:58:47 GMT Organization: bbb Lines: 2 Message-ID: <3jqsk7$4db@armitage.cyberspace.com> Reply-To: phil@cyberspace.com NNTP-Posting-Host: ppp52-128.cyberspace.com X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.5 Status: O X-Status: Does anyone have pictures or know places to go to view gardening and landscaping to get ideas? From cmay@Direct.CA Sun Mar 12 22:26:13 EST 1995 Article: 58249 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!hookup!news.Direct.CA!usenet From: Colleenmay Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Hanging Baskets--Moss Date: 11 Mar 1995 00:58:24 GMT Organization: Internet Direct, Inc. Lines: 14 Message-ID: <3jqsjg$76q@fun.Direct.CA> NNTP-Posting-Host: dyn-74.direct.ca Status: O X-Status: Hi Gardeners! Here in Vancouver, B.C. we've been experiencing shifts back and forth between Spring and Winter... Does anyone have a design for THE MOST BEAUTIFUL hanging moss basket ever? Shade or sun loving... I would like vibrant, blousy, lush, to describe the finished project. Thank you Colleen...cmay@direct.ca From ulbrich@ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu Sun Mar 12 22:26:15 EST 1995 Article: 58250 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!ncar!uchinews!gw2.att.com!oucsboss!ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu!ULBRICH From: ulbrich@ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu Subject: Weedless Iris X-Nntp-Posting-Host: ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu Message-ID: Sender: postmaster@ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu Reply-To: ulbrich@ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu Organization: Ohio University Computing & Technology Services Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 22:57:36 GMT Lines: 4 Status: O X-Status: Can anyone give me some suggestions on how to enjoy my iris without the constant hassle of weeds. Any help would be great. Thanks a Million. Lisa From fletcher@prairienet.org Sun Mar 12 22:26:17 EST 1995 Article: 58251 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!prairienet.org!fletcher From: fletcher@prairienet.org (Karen Fletcher) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: WWW site Date: 12 Mar 1995 23:52:31 GMT Organization: Prairienet, the East-Central Illinois Free-Net Lines: 15 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k01fv$ed8@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: <3jv1el$42q@paperboy.ids.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: firefly.prairienet.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: Stephen Cotroneo (stephenc33@ids.net) wrote: : Does anyone know of WWW sites on gardening. Try out The Garden Gate and The Garden Spider's Web for lots of good stuff - links to sites all around the world as a well as a growing collection of original materials. Enjoy! Karen Fletcher fletcher@prairienet.org ========================================================================== The Garden Gate http://www.prairienet.org/ag/garden/homepage.htm The Garden Gate at SunSITE http://sunsite.unc.edu/garden-gate/homepage.htm The Garden Spider's Web http://mirror.wwa.com/mirror/garden/spdrsweb.htm From bgoogle@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:26:19 EST 1995 Article: 58252 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bgoogle@aol.com (B GOOGLE) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: DAYLILIES.. Date: 12 Mar 1995 18:41:57 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 1 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k00s5$qtr@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jtqbn$gpr@nova.voicenet.com> Reply-To: bgoogle@aol.com (B GOOGLE) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I don't know much about them, but would like to learn. From stlouins@cnsvax.uwec.edu Sun Mar 12 22:26:21 EST 1995 Article: 58253 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!koala.uwec.edu!uwec.edu!stlouins From: stlouins@cnsvax.uwec.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seeking "Bittersweet", the plant Date: 12 Mar 95 17:42:44 -0600 Organization: University of Wisconsin Eau Claire Lines: 6 Message-ID: <1995Mar12.174244.1@cnsvax.uwec.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kimera.uwec.edu Status: O X-Status: Gurney's Seed & Nursery Co., 110 Capital Street, Yankton, SD 57079 has bittersweet in its current catalog, 2 plants/offer, $6.25/offer, less if you buy more. Dina From mspencer@nando.net Sun Mar 12 22:26:25 EST 1995 Article: 58254 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!parsifal.nando.net!grail615.nando.net!mspencer From: Mary Spencer Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Should I buy worms? Date: 13 Mar 1995 00:06:08 GMT Organization: Eye on Government Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k029g$otp@parsifal.nando.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: grail615.nando.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Newsreader: Nuntius 2.0.1_68K X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 00:04:39 GMT Status: O X-Status: Well, should I buy worms? I've seen some in my soil, but for what they do it seems that more would help out. DO I naturally have as many worms as my organic matter can carry, or would buying more help? Mary Spencer Eye on Government (919) 596-0152 Voice (919) 596-0081 Fax mspencer@nando.net AOL: MarySpence From f_rushingrg@titan.sfasu.edu Sun Mar 12 22:26:28 EST 1995 Article: 58255 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!news.uh.edu!titan.sfasu.edu!titan.sfasu.edu!nntp Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Source for supplies ?? Message-ID: <1995Mar10.190723.811@titan.sfasu.edu> From: Ron Rushing Date: 10 Mar 95 19:07:23 CST Distribution: world Nntp-Posting-Host: 144.96.241.146 X-Newsreader: Nuntius Version 1.2 X-XXDate: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 19:14:44 GMT Lines: 33 Status: O X-Status: FIrst off-- thanks to all who responded to my question about drainage. I've decided to use a 8-10" ditch with a 3-4" perf. corregated pipe, installed in a coarse gravel (1-1/1/2" crushed rock) bedding. I plan to line the ditch with "silt-proof" cloth, which will also wrap over the top of the bedding layer below the top fill and grass. Many folks responded with the same general construction--a couple mentioned using the 360 degree cloth wrap of the system to keep the rock bedding and pipe for closing up after years. Sounds good to me-- I don't want to dig up a few hundred feet of drain lines to start the new century . Now-- where can I order (large) quantities of the perf. plastic pipe and realated materials like the "silt-proof" cloth ? I tried the nurserys in my area- no such items--not even an offer to order any :-(. Catalog suppliers--preferably comercial suppliers-- seem my only alternative. I suspect that plubing supply houses can obtain the pipe-two I've called have the larger pipe (8-10") for septic systems --but no smaller. Locating the "silt-proof" cloth may be a problem. Thanks-- Ron Rushing College of Education S.F.A University 409.468.1424 rrushing@sfasu.edu "Personal Opinions Only..." From blw@lanl.gov Sun Mar 12 22:26:32 EST 1995 Article: 58256 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!pipex!uunet!news.sandia.gov!tesuque.cs.sandia.gov!ferrari.mst6.lanl.gov!newshost.lanl.gov!weintraub-mac.atdiv.lanl.gov!user From: blw@lanl.gov (Barbara W) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Hormodin rooting powder Date: 10 Mar 1995 23:16:26 GMT Organization: AOT-FM, LANL Lines: 13 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: weintraub-mac.atdiv.lanl.gov Status: O X-Status: I received my A. M. Leonard catalog today: "Quality tools and supplies for the professional." Has anyone else noticed that there's only one letter difference between "TOOLS" and "TOYS"? (okay, well 2 letters...) HORMODIN rooting powder is listed on page 12. Comes in 1 lb. or 1/2 lb. tins, depending on the grade. Price ranges from $18.38 to $22.78. #1 is for "roses, home garden and greenhouse plants" #2 is for "woody & semi-woody plants" #3 is for "difficult to root varieties" Toll free phone number for the US is (800) 543-8955. I have ordered from them, and have appreciated their professionalism and good service. From W.ARNETZL@LDB.han.de Sun Mar 12 22:26:33 EST 1995 Article: 58257 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!Germany.EU.net!zib-berlin.de!news.cs.uni-magdeburg.de!RRZ.Uni-Koeln.DE!nntp.gmd.de!news.rwth-aachen.de!newsserver.rrzn.uni-hannover.de!unihil!rz.uni-hildesheim.de!baghira.han.de!ldb.han.de!W.ARNETZL From: W.ARNETZL@LDB.han.de (Wolfgang Arnetzl) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Shade gardening & books Date: 9 Mar 95 21:47:00 +0200 Message-ID: <5hYhkam8YoB@ldb-wa.ldb.han.de> References: <95022020502600109@moroni.cary.nc.us> <1995Feb23.165110.25443@freenet.victoria.bc.ca> <3ingmf$l06@uncle.calvin.edu> X-Mailer: CrossPoint v3.02 R/A45 X-Gateway: ZCONNECT UL ldb.han.de [UUCPfZ V5.53 U002] Lines: 23 Status: O X-Status: slen@ursa.calvin.edu wrote on 25.02.95 concerning "Re: Shade gardening & books": s> That's the problem with a shade garden: most of the plants have small s> flowers that one cannot see from a distance. What I need are s> ideas on design. Druse's idea that a shade garden should just grow as in s> nature is not helpful for a person with limited space. There are also small growing woodplants! If you want to have some surrounding a sitting place you may choose rhododendraceae. Younger ones are usually about 3 feet, older ones reach 7 feet at the most. In late spring/early summer they show so many blossoms that the whole bush is pure pink (or white or pale blue or ...). Lower growing shrubs are Anemone japonica. They bloom in October with white or pale pink blossoms on stalks about 3 feet height. Some years after planting they run wild and cover big areas under trees. Combine them with vinca minor or wild strawberries, perhaps take a blackberry-bush (if hunger strikes you...). cheerio, special e-mail guest Steffi (please notice that I'm female and I'm not called Wolfgang :-) ...) From virgilr@Everest.Tandem.COM Sun Mar 12 22:26:34 EST 1995 Article: 58258 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!tandem!Everest.Tandem.COM!virgilr From: virgilr@Everest.Tandem.COM (reichert_virgil) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bamboo Information Date: 11 Mar 1995 01:17:57 GMT Organization: Tandem Computers Inc., Cupertino CA Lines: 18 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jqto5$p0h@newshost.loc3.tandem.com> References: <3jb1fp$71f@news.cerf.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: devserver.dsg.tandem.com Status: O X-Status: In article <3jb1fp$71f@news.cerf.net>, gib cooper writes: > >Bamboo is difficult to find. Bamboo information is even harder. I will >gladly answer any questions on the subject. If I cannot and you are >interested I will connect you with the "bamboo group". This is only for >serious bambuseros. > > Bamboo may be difficult to find some places, but it's much harder to get rid of once established. Note that I'm not against bamboo...I'm just against the infestation of my neighbor's bamboo into my yard via underground runners. I've tried digging it up, concrete, etc. No matter what I do, it always comes back in a couple of years. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Virgil P.S. If you're having trouble getting bamboo, take some from my yard! From lrm583@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:26:36 EST 1995 Article: 58259 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: lrm583@aol.com (Lrm583) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Horse Manure Date: 10 Mar 1995 20:20:35 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 21 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jqtt3$o8i@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jq536$pbv@acmez.gatech.edu> Reply-To: lrm583@aol.com (Lrm583) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: >I am planning to get several pickup truck loads of horse manure this weekend and I haven't seen it yet. Is there any way to tell if it's composted enough to use as mulck on berry bushes and also to till into my garden area other than smell? I have used manure for several years in my garden, and can tell you several things from personal experience. As regards the freshness, you should get manure that is at least two years old. Fresh manure looks like horse droppings, lots of round, hardish pieces in the mix. Older manure is broken down, and looks like very black dirt. Also, as you mentioned, there is a strong urine smell to fresher manure, and should not be there if it is older. I would warn you, though, that for all the manure I put in my garden, I got a wonderful crop of hay, due to the seeds that pass through the horses, and it was very difficult to keep the hay from choking out my vegetables. I found another cheap alternative, which is wonderful for gardens, and that is leaf mulch, which is only $16 a truck load, at least in Virginia. Good luck and hope I was of help! LRM583@aol.com From marcscholl@delphi.com Sun Mar 12 22:26:38 EST 1995 Article: 58260 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: Marc Scholl Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Plants from vegetable seeds?? Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 19:20:52 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 4 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1c.delphi.com Status: O X-Status: This may sound like a naive question, but what are the reasons, if any, that you can't start plants from their the seeds of vegetables (peas from nts and cucumbers) bought at frut and vegetable stands rather than from packages of seeds? Or can you? From craighd@pegasus.rutgers.edu Sun Mar 12 22:26:40 EST 1995 Article: 58262 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!dziuxsolim.rutgers.edu!pegasus.rutgers.edu!not-for-mail From: craighd@pegasus.rutgers.edu (Craig Davis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Name of fragrant bush? Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:45:19 -0500 Organization: Rutgers University Lines: 9 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k04iv$t7h@pegasus.rutgers.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: pegasus.rutgers.edu Status: O X-Status: When I lived out in San Francisco, I used to walk past a bush that had a wonderful fragrance-- like bubble gum. Does anyone know what kind of bush this might be? Also, would it be able to survive the four seasons in the Northeast (New Jersey)? Thanks. -Craig- From bob100@ix.netcom.com Sun Mar 12 22:26:42 EST 1995 Article: 58263 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: bob100@ix.netcom.com (bob) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Hydroponics Date: 13 Mar 1995 00:55:28 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 19 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0560$6at@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> References: <3jan0h$7v8@comet.connix.com> <3js5c4$ak6@shore.shore.net> <3jttjp$1ei@thor.inlink.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-pit1-03.ix.netcom.com Status: RO X-Status: In <3jttjp$1ei@thor.inlink.com> raiar@vulcan.inlink.com (Gary V. Deutschmann Sr.) writes: > >Hi Bill >The only way to go is to use Hydro-Sol and then add to that whatever you need. >In any case never add or use urea or ammonium based salts. >Gary Deutschmann, Ci hief Olericulturist, EcoTek Hydroculture, Inc. > > Someone suggested planting my garden according to farm dates in the Farmer's Almanac. Plant Hydroponic Crops 11-12 March. Would someone please explain what these crops are. Has anyone had success with this method of planting. My garden produces nice plants but the vegetables are small. I have tilled winter rye in added lime last fall. I receive the morning sun alot of trees of the south side. Thanks for any assistance. Patty From pgr@panix.com Sun Mar 12 22:26:44 EST 1995 Article: 58264 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!panix!pgr.dialup.access.net!user From: pgr@panix.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Sweet Olive Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 20:03:29 -0500 Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and Unix, NYC Lines: 9 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 166.84.252.201 Status: O X-Status: Hello - Years ago I had a Sweet Olive (Osmanthus Fragrans) as a house plant. I would like to obtain another. Does anyone know of a source (mail order)? If possible E-mail response. Thanks much in advance pgr@panix.com From swell@infi.net Sun Mar 12 22:26:46 EST 1995 Article: 58265 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news.infi.net!usenet From: swell@infi.net (Nancy Swell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Brookes' address request Date: 11 Mar 1995 01:44:10 GMT Organization: InfiNet Lines: 14 Message-ID: <3jqv9a$lg8@lucy.infi.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: h-red.richmond.infi.net X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+ Status: O X-Status: In article , Jennifer Salazar says: > > >Does anyone know the address and/or phone number for John Brookes in >Bognor Regis, England? Mr. Brookes has written many beautifully >illustrated books on garden design. > You might check at Kew Gardens. He teaches some courses there, and I am sure they would have his address. I have most of his books. He is simply great. More than anyone else he has taught me a new way of looking at gardens. Mostly to treat the spot I am standing in as a small unit, complete in itself, and to create a picture before moving on. Nancy From jen.mayer@southwest.org Sun Mar 12 22:26:47 EST 1995 Article: 58266 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!sowest!jen.mayer From: jen.mayer@southwest.org (Jen Mayer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: 1994 SEEDS Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 23:33:00 GMT Message-ID: <9503121708231988@southwest.org> Organization: SouthWest Consulting - BBS Line 818-285-8684 Distribution: world References: <1995Mar9.094853.1@iccgcc.cle.ab.com> Lines: 8 Status: O X-Status: HH> I have several packets of seeds which say "Packaged for 1994'. Can I HH> use these or should I buy new ones? Why don't you germinate them in a jar in wet paper towels for a few days to see if they're going to sprout? Then you'll know. Seeds will last for a few years (or more) if they're kept in reasonable conditions. * RM 1.3 01256 * Proofread carefully to see if you any words out. From jen.mayer@southwest.org Sun Mar 12 22:26:48 EST 1995 Article: 58267 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!sowest!jen.mayer From: jen.mayer@southwest.org (Jen Mayer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: CALIFORNIA STORM Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 23:43:00 GMT Message-ID: <9503121708231989@southwest.org> Organization: SouthWest Consulting - BBS Line 818-285-8684 Distribution: world References: <3jr8uv$94a@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> Lines: 10 Status: O X-Status: ES> Anyone out there have anything to say about the storm this week and ES> their gardening efforts? We had a fence blown down the other nite, ES> but other than that, no real garden damage. I was worried about ES> some herb Heck of a storm! We were on Hwy 99 north when the Eucalyptus trees were falling across the freeway. almost no damage to our gardens back home in Pasadena, though. * RM 1.3 01256 * In the immortal words of Quasimoto, "Call it a Hunch." From nadiai@aol.com Sun Mar 12 22:26:50 EST 1995 Article: 58268 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: nadiai@aol.com (NadiaI) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Crab Grass -- how to grow?? Date: 12 Mar 1995 20:21:32 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 3 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k06ms$sfa@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: nadiai@aol.com (NadiaI) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I would like to grow crab grass for a high traffic/dog area. Any ideas how I could go about this? From grumbo@niagara.com Thu Mar 16 00:36:42 EST 1995 Article: 58269 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!niagara.com!slip3.niagara.com!grumbo From: grumbo@niagara.com (Grahame Rumsby) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Crab Grass -- how to grow?? Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 20:33:26 UNDEFINED Organization: Internet Connect Niagara Lines: 16 Message-ID: References: <3k06ms$sfa@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: slip3.niagara.com X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #1] Status: O X-Status: In article <3k06ms$sfa@newsbf02.news.aol.com> nadiai@aol.com (NadiaI) writes: >From: nadiai@aol.com (NadiaI) >Subject: Crab Grass -- how to grow?? >Date: 12 Mar 1995 20:21:32 -0500 >I would like to grow crab grass for a high traffic/dog area. Any ideas >how >I could go about this? Well the way I usually grow it is to lay good quality sod down, water and fertilize and within a year I have a good lawn full of crab grass and very little normal grass!!! Sorry Nadial couldn't resist.. Grahame From jstier@yu1.yu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:36:43 EST 1995 Article: 58270 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!panix!cmcl2!thecourier.cims.nyu.edu!yu1.yu.edu!jstier From: Jeff Stier Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: When to plant tomatoes Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 12:37:42 -0500 Organization: Courant Institute of Mathematical Sciences Lines: 16 Message-ID: References: <3iqv9t$ani$4@mhadg.production.compuserve.com> <3jkbfg$1gb4@sernews.raleigh.ibm.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: dopey.cs.nyu.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In-Reply-To: <3jkbfg$1gb4@sernews.raleigh.ibm.com> Status: O X-Status: I live in North/Central N.J. (near Newark Airport) and am going to plant tomatoes from seed. Burpess says to plant them 6-8 weeks before last frost. I have a great southern exposure indoors.... Outside the sunlight is adequate but not great. When should I plant indoors and when should I take them out? Thanks ****************************************************************************** Jeff Stier jstier@yu1.yu.edu !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! From kc@tiac.net Thu Mar 16 00:36:44 EST 1995 Article: 58271 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!kc.tiac.net!user From: kc@tiac.net (Kevin Crader) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Hormodin rooting powder Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 21:58:17 -0500 Organization: The Internet Access Company Lines: 15 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: kc.tiac.net Status: O X-Status: In article , blw@lanl.gov (Barbara W) wrote: > I received my A. M. Leonard catalog today: "Quality tools and supplies for > the professional." Has anyone else noticed that there's only one letter > difference between "TOOLS" and "TOYS"? (okay, well 2 letters...) > > HORMODIN rooting powder is listed on page 12. Comes in 1 lb. or 1/2 lb. > tins, depending on the grade. Price ranges from $18.38 to $22.78. FYI my new Griffin Greenhouse (508-851-0012) cat says "...When the current supply of Hormodin is exhausted the product will be discontinued as it is no longer manufactured." ?? kc From hollytw@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:36:45 EST 1995 Article: 58272 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: hollytw@aol.com (HollyTW) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Need Sun-Loving Annual Date: 10 Mar 1995 21:13:59 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 5 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jr117$p5o@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jnpb1$opj@netaxs.com> Reply-To: hollytw@aol.com (HollyTW) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Vinca does well under sunny, dry conditions, as does portulaca. In fact, the more you ignore portulaca, the prettier it gets! Rotsa ruck! Holly From psmith@superior.carleton.ca Thu Mar 16 00:36:47 EST 1995 Article: 58273 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!admaix.sunydutchess.edu!ub!netfs.dnd.ca!dgbt!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@superior.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: tomato worms Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: <14413790.1508908@lamg.com> Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 21:56:37 GMT Lines: 10 Status: O X-Status: In <14413790.1508908@lamg.com> jabes@lamg.com (Jerald Brainin) writes: >I am looking for an effective non-toxic answer to tomato worms????? Plant lots of dill or other small-flowered herbs around your tomato plants. when the herbs bloom, they attract lots of parasitic wasps (at least for me), which will help control hornworms and other caterpillars. good luck From kc@tiac.net Thu Mar 16 00:36:48 EST 1995 Article: 58274 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!kc.tiac.net!user From: kc@tiac.net (Kevin Crader) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: indoor fluorescent lighting Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 22:08:10 -0500 Organization: The Internet Access Company Lines: 17 Message-ID: References: <3jn480$ii9@taco.cc.ncsu.edu> <3jvf8k$8kl@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kc.tiac.net Status: O X-Status: In article <3jvf8k$8kl@morrow.stanford.edu>, dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) wrote: I was at Orchard Supply > Hardware, and one of the managers there (who would have every reason to > want me to buy the grow lights, since they were *50* times more expensive-- Yes, they are *very* expensive. Case in point - I bought a 20" 15W Vita-Lite for my pet turtle so she can have full-spectrum during the winter, and that sucker set me back $25!!! If money is no problem then HPS (high-pressure sodium) is more efficient than floures. with higher output- but the lamps are about $250. and the bulbs $15. "Similar to Gro-Lux and other color improved floures. compared on equal energy" USDA sez... Kevin From growit@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:36:49 EST 1995 Article: 58275 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: growit@aol.com (GROWIT) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Lauries Landscape/Peonies Date: 12 Mar 1995 21:08:29 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 8 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k09et$t7b@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3it1a9$7d9@dawn.mmm.com> Reply-To: growit@aol.com (GROWIT) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: >I recently sent away to lauries landscape in chicago for there peony catalog >but have recieved no reply has anyone else done business with them. I >understand they have a herbaceous/tree peony hybrid. tim; i know laurie, been to her house, seen her peonies. she's a small bizperson so don't be too alarmed if she's not terribly prompt. if you don't hear from her in awhile, send me a message and i'll call her. bill. From billsdone@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:36:50 EST 1995 Article: 58276 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: billsdone@aol.com (BillsDone) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: are wildflowers do-able in nice neighborhood? Date: 12 Mar 1995 21:09:03 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 2 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k09fv$t83@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jpkvr$kfe@tattoo.sccsi.com> Reply-To: billsdone@aol.com (BillsDone) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: >From personal experience....wildflower areas are pretty when in bloom...but otherwise look like a giant weed patch.... From klevine@cpcug.digex.net Thu Mar 16 00:36:52 EST 1995 Article: 58277 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news1.digex.net!cpcug!klevine From: klevine@cpcug.digex.net (Ketzel Levine) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Going NATIVE Date: 11 Mar 1995 02:51:18 GMT Organization: Capital PC User Group, Inc., Rockville, Maryland, USA Lines: 14 Message-ID: <3jr376$pm5@news1.digex.net> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: cpcug.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Lots of nurseries seem to have hybrids but not species azaleas :( I LOVE THESE PLANTS but know primarily wholesale growers who don't ship. Catalogs to try include: Roslyn Nursery (Long Island) 516-484-1555 Greer Gardens (Eugene,OR) 503-686-8266 Forestfarm (OR) 503-846-6963 Someone who might help further is Jim Plyler at Natural Landscapes. He's one of THE native woodie growers in this area: 610-869-3788. He's a one-man band & might be hard to reach (and probably doesn't ship) but it's worth the try...he carries at least 15 species. all the best, kl From simone.rosa-knight@ptonline.com Thu Mar 16 00:36:53 EST 1995 Article: 58278 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!dragon!ptonline!simone.rosa-knight Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Regulation on the net Message-ID: <8A55081.18590000AA.uuout@ptonline.com> From: simone.rosa-knight@ptonline.com (SIMONE ROSA-KNIGHT) Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 02:09:00 -0500 Reply-To: simone.rosa-knight@ptonline.com (SIMONE ROSA-KNIGHT) Organization: Prime Time On-Line, Alpharetta,GA 404-667-1081 X-Newsreader: PCBoard Version 15.2 X-Mailer: PCBoard/UUOUT Version 1.0 Lines: 133 Status: O X-Status: CD> @FROM :cddunn@monk.austin.cc.tx.us CD> @N SUBJECT:Re: Regulation on the net? Randy, thought this might interest you enough to write your Senators! Simone >I emailed my Senators. Have you? CD>swebb@freenet.vcu.edu wrote: CD>: I picked up the following post on rec.music.gdead. Although we CD>: don't seem to "go up in flames" or get too racy in the garden, CD>: it seems censorship may concern us all. CD>: > NET REGULATION ON THE WAY? CD>: > CD>: > 7 Mar 1995 14:54:56 -0500 CD>: > Rutgers University CD>: > Post a followup article to newsgroup(s) CD>: > Send email reply to author: David Kuffler CD>: >recently the following appeared in the congressional record: CD>: >by Mr. Exon (for himself and Mr. Gorton) CD>: >s.314 a bill to protect the public from misuse of the CD>: >telecommunications network and telecommunications devices and CD>: >facilities; to the committee on commerce, science, and CD>: >transportation CD>: >THE COMMUNICATIONS DECENCY ACT CD>: >Mr. President, I am pleased to introduce legislation to expand the CD>: >decency provisions of the Communications Act of 1934 to clearly CD>: >cover the new technologies which are increasingly part of the CD>: >American way of life. As a strong supporter of CD>: >telecommunications reform, I am anxious to pass legislation which CD>: >will free the private sector to create the information CD>: >superhighway. This exciting technology will put unprecedented CD>: >information power into the hands of every citizen. The CD>: >opportunities for education, culture, and entertainment are CD>: >limitless. Sadly, there is a dark side to the bright flicker of CD>: >the computer screen. The explosion of technology also threatens CD>: >an explosion of misuse. The legislation I introduce today, known CD>: >as the COMMUNICATIONS DECENCY ACT, establishes legal protections CD>: >against that misuse. It modernizes the current law against CD>: >telecommunications misuse in the digital age. CD>: > This legislation will extend and strengthen the CD>: >protections which exist harassing, obscene, and indecent phone CD>: >calls to cover all such uses of all telecommunications devices CD>: >of and increase the penalties for misuse the public switched CD>: >network. This much-needed legislation increases the CD>: >penalties for obscene cable and radio broadcasts. The bill also CD>: >insures that adult pay-per-view programs are fully scrambled, so CD>: >that homes which do not subscribe to such services are not CD>: >invaded by unwanted audio and video. The legislation also CD>: >prohibits the use of toll free 800 numbers from being used as a CD>: >ruse to charge callers or telephone numbers for adult and other CD>: >pay-per-call services. In addition, the legislation CD>: >modernizes the protections against unauthorized eavesdropping on CD>: >conversations, electronic or digital communications. CD>: > In addition, this legislation includes provisions Senator CD>: >Gorton and I crafted last year to give cable operators the power CD>: >to refuse to transmit any public access or leased access program CD>: >or portion of such program which includes obscenity, indecency, CD>: >or nudity. Mr. President, the information superhighway CD>: >should not become a red light district. This legislation will CD>: >keep that from happening and extend the standards of decency CD>: >which have protected telephone users to new telecommunications CD>: >devices. Once passed, our children and families will be CD>: >better protected from those who would electronically cruise the CD>: >digital world to engage children in inappropriate communications CD>: >and introductions. The Decency Act will also clearly protect CD>: >citizens from electronic stalking and protect the sanctuary of CD>: >the home from uninvited indecencies.... CD>: > The Senetor went on to introduce an article from the CD>: >Washington Post of 8.2.94 entitled "Molesting Children by CD>: >Computer" by Sandy Rovner into the record. CD>: >My comments: if there is any phrase more scary than "the standards CD>: >of decency" when uttered by a politician, I'm hard-pressed to CD>: >think of it. CD>: > the Senator wants to protect "children and families" Our CD>: >law does protect children where appropriate. I don't understand CD>: >families unless it is a redundancy. To me it shows the Senator CD>: >wants to protect women from the indecencies on the net as to his CD>: >stereotypical world women are identified with the family and CD>: >children and need the same protection as children. The senator CD>: >should leave the middle ages and realize that all adults are CD>: >capable of determining what they want to see for themselves. CD>: > Query: sould there be an information superhighway without CD>: >the indecent part. it seems to me that the sharing of this CD>: >material on the net has led to its growth and popularity and CD>: >would not exist to the extent it does without it. CD>: > This is dangerous stuff folks. I will get the text of the CD>: >act as soon as possible and reprint it here. Under current law, CD>: >obscenity and indecency are determined by a jury applying CD>: >community standards. Thus, suit can be brought anywhere the CD>: >material in question ends up. Thus, an officer on a computer in CD>: >more conservative areas of the country can access material from CD>: >elsewhere and bring suit in the conservative area i.e CD>: >forum-shopping. Even more dangerous is the apparent political CD>: >price to be paid by not supporting any crime bill or family values bill CD>: >. CD>: > From the looks of this report, the bill was referred to CD>: >committee where it will be voted on and either returned to the CD>: >Senate for a full vote or it will die in committee to be CD>: >reintroduced another day. Contact your local elected officials CD>: >if you are at concerned by Big Brother. The paragraph about CD>: >strengthening the protections which exist against unauthorized CD>: >eavesdropping on conversations, electronic or digital CD>: >communications surely does not apply to the government!! CD>: -- CD>: Sarah Webb CD>: Richmond, Virginia USA CD>: swebb@freenet.vcu.edu CD> Paul E.Knight OR Simone A. Rosa-Knight Atlanta, GA. 30340 Internet: Paul.Knight@ptonline.com Simone.Rosa-Knight@ptonline.com 404-491-7293 --- * CMPQwk #1.4* UNREGISTERED EVALUATION COPY From n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:36:54 EST 1995 Article: 58279 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!henson!henson.cc.wwu.edu!n6848640 From: FEENEY Subject: Re: morning glory foliage In-Reply-To: <3johal$9sf@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Message-ID: Sender: news@henson.cc.wwu.edu (USENET-WWU) Organization: Western Washington University References: <3johal$9sf@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 17:03:20 -0800 Lines: 15 Status: O X-Status: On this list we have had various discussions about confusions with common names. Morning glories fall into this category. I grow Ipomoeas as annuals, from seed, not to be confused with bindweed, a similar looking vine, sharing the same common name of morning glory but a nasty invasive brut as perennial as the seasons. So, taxonomists out there, please explain how the genus Convolvulus fits into the name game here. And what about Quamoclit (star glory) and Calonyction (moonflower). Are these now classified as Ipomoeas? I have understood that the Ipomoeas will not flower well if treated to a rich diet of fertilizer, which tends to put on more leaf growth and fewer flowers. Thanks for the info, Cheers, Stephanie Feeney n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu zone 7 From seremjia@it.uwp.edu Thu Mar 16 00:36:56 EST 1995 Article: 58280 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!cs.uwp.edu!it!seremjia From: seremjia@it.uwp.edu (Peggy Seremjian) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want invasive plants Date: 13 Mar 1995 02:22:15 GMT Organization: University of Wisconsin - Parkside Lines: 12 Message-ID: <3k0a8n$3dj@cs.uwp.edu> References: <3jie0d$7ss@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3jtgl4$bnt@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: it.uwp.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Diveanddig (diveanddig@aol.com) wrote: : Try Chinese Lantern. My mother had those in her garden two years ago, realized after only one season what bullies they were, and she is _still_ yanking up new baby lanterns! I find it amusing how plants like these are described: "Vigorous grower" on seed packets and such. They should have the word "WARNING!" in red letters stamped across the packet instead. :) Peg From grnthm@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:36:57 EST 1995 Article: 58281 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: grnthm@aol.com (GrnThm) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Plants to attract hummingbirds? Date: 10 Mar 1995 21:32:26 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 1 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jr23q$pf9@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3j57lq$7k@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: grnthm@aol.com (GrnThm) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Salvias. Trumpet vines. Like red flowers. From jpiflyfish@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:36:58 EST 1995 Article: 58282 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jpiflyfish@aol.com (JPIFLYFISH) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: cats and ponds Date: 10 Mar 1995 21:38:13 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 11 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jr2el$pi5@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: jpiflyfish@aol.com (JPIFLYFISH) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Read about your pond and cat situation. I have a small garden pond and waterfall in my backyard and have been "visited" by cats, coons, and skunks. I keep goldfish in the pond (wanted to try Koi but I knew that was an expensive and futile proposition). Anyway, last summer I rigged up a motion sensor light that is directed at the pond. It clicks on when an intruding cat or other critter get close to the pond...It's helped slow down the predators, but hasn't eliminated the problem. I thought about wiring the pond with a low-voltage fence, but it would be an expensive and unsightly chore. So...I'm content to share my goldfish on occassion with the furry guys. Regards...John P. From billsdone@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:36:59 EST 1995 Article: 58283 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: billsdone@aol.com (BillsDone) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Stone Walls Date: 12 Mar 1995 21:12:08 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 1 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k09lo$t9c@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: billsdone@aol.com (BillsDone) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: What's the going rate for stone walls per foot at 18" and 3 foot high ??? From FCS1@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:00 EST 1995 Article: 58284 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: FCS1@ix.netcom.com (Fred Simmank) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Cyclamen Date: 13 Mar 1995 02:23:15 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 22 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0aaj$n6r@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-hou3-12.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: I am currently growing quite a few Cylemen (planted them in November) just North of Houston, Texas with fantastic results. Unfortunately, these plants are unable to survive our hot and damp Summers. A plant expert told me that it is possible to store the corms in a dormant state during the Summer, and then replant them once cooler weather arrives next Fall. I plan to lift them in late May and let them dry out and loose their foliage. Once the foliage is gone, I will hang the corms in potato sacks in my garage for the duration of the hot weather. Another person I talked to said that once I plant them this fall, it will be difficult to get the plants to bloom. He said that these plants require a certain number of hours of light in order to begin blooming. I belive he said they need exactly 12 hours of light per day (reminds of X-mas Cactus). Has anyone successfully stored/replanted their Cyclamen, and if so did you encounter any difficulties in getting them to bloom? Did you have a fairly high percentage of plants that came out of dormacy and bloomed? What procedures did you use to store them? Their constant blooming makes these plants fantastic for Winter landscaping in shady areas, but as costly as they are, it would be nice to be able to "reuse" them year after year. Any info would be greatly appreciated. From seremjia@it.uwp.edu Thu Mar 16 00:37:02 EST 1995 Article: 58285 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!cs.uwp.edu!it!seremjia From: seremjia@it.uwp.edu (Peggy Seremjian) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Coffee Grounds Date: 13 Mar 1995 02:26:27 GMT Organization: University of Wisconsin - Parkside Lines: 9 Message-ID: <3k0agj$3dj@cs.uwp.edu> References: <3ja6u7$30s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jv8aq$n6@news.cerf.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: it.uwp.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: : > Are coffee grounds good for anything in the garden? I have an indoor wormbox and my worms just _love_ coffeegrounds. Second only to canteloupe rinds. Peg. PS and the resultant worm castings are great in the garden. The grounds are much better having gone thru the worm first.. From markm@nwlink.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:03 EST 1995 Article: 58286 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!nwlink.com!usenet From: mark Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bunch of ??? about starting seeds Date: 11 Mar 1995 02:36:21 GMT Organization: Northwest Link Lines: 24 Message-ID: <3jr2b6$s1f@alaska.nwlink.com> References: <1995Mar6.162439@hiramb> <1995Mar6.170449.39769@cobra.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: port10.annex2.nwlink.com Status: O X-Status: > > In article <1995Mar6.162439@hiramb>, whitedfp@hiram.edu (Frances Whited, > 216/569-5291) writes: > > > I'm about to attempt my first foray into starting seeds indoors and have > > > a couple of questions. > > > > > > 1. I don't have lots of $$$ to invest in heating mats, so what are some > > > suggestions for other ways to keep the flats warm until the seeds germinate. > > > For example, I have an electric oil-filled radiator that I could > position near > > > the flats. (It gives off pretty low, even heat.) > > > Another idea (if you don't have too many seedlings requiring heat) is to use a heating pad underneath the seed tray. If the heating pad is small like mine, you can also put a cookie sheet or some other heat-conductive tray on top of the heating pad and then put the seed tray on top of that. I have successfully started both tomatoes and hot peppers this way for a couple years (zone 8). All other seeds I have been able to successfully start indoors (in-garage) without a heat source. Good luck! ~laura From growit@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:04 EST 1995 Article: 58287 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: growit@aol.com (GROWIT) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Advice for starting a garden club? Date: 12 Mar 1995 21:18:34 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 25 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k0a1q$7n@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3istom$d0f@prop.wes.army.mil> Reply-To: growit@aol.com (GROWIT) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: >I'm thinking about starting a garden group at my church - using gardening >as a common bond to help re-establish a sense of community in a church that >has had a rough past couple of years, and because I'd just like to have a >garden club. I haven't thought through this very far, but it's occurred >to me that we could combine our excess production and help supply some >of the local "soup kitchens". I've never been a part of a gardening >group, though, so I'd like advice if anyone has some, on how to start it, >set it up, etc. How should we structure meetings and such; what are >some good programs, how long should they be; In other words, where do >I start? Any and all help appreciated. Harry; Just start it! I'm a member of a rather large club (160 members), we have monthly meetings, major plant sale in spring using purchased plants but a lot donated by members and grown in a greenhouse that gives us space. In late summer, we have a show that is judged, usually get 1,500 entries; it's very exciting to win a best of class plaque or a blue ribbon. Also an annual picnic and dinner. If you want to affiliate with a national, you could contact the Gardeners of America Inc. in Iowa or find the local Federated State Garden Club and see how to hook into their national. Regarding giving away excess food, my professional organization, the Garden Writers Association of America, is sponsoring a program called Plant a Row for the Hungry which encourages gardeners to contact their local food pantry and see how to contribute their excess food. Give it a try! bill in chicago. From growit@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:05 EST 1995 Article: 58288 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: growit@aol.com (GROWIT) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Problem growing freesias Date: 12 Mar 1995 21:19:14 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 15 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k0a32$8f@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: growit@aol.com (GROWIT) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: >I grow freesias each winter in a greenhouse where the temperature range is >45-55.There is adequate light, water and fertilizer and the plants bloom >vigorously. The only problem is that the bloom stalks are gnarled and twist in >all directions. I have tried insecticides with no visible improvement. Any >suggestions as to what I might to to get straight stems? Douglass; your message does not indicate why you suspect the problem is insects. it certainly sounds like the contortions of the stems is associated with a reaction to the insecticide. does the insecticide list freesias as one of crops it is formulated for? are you using it exactly as the label directs? most insects are going to be dormant at those temps anyway. i'd start with that premise. From marcusschn@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:06 EST 1995 Article: 58289 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: marcusschn@aol.com (MarcusSchn) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Backyard Wildlife Date: 10 Mar 1995 21:44:50 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 20 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3jr2r2$pl4@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: marcusschn@aol.com (MarcusSchn) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Just thought some of you might be interested... The Backyard Wildlife Network is a membership organization formed to share the latest discoveries, ideas and techniques in backyard wildlife and habitat, and to encourage the development of backyard habitat on every possible site. Membership benefits include monthly 16-page newsletter, product discounts, query-solution service, exclusive invitations to seminars and workshops. $25 per year ($23 if you're over 59 or under 21) Backyard Wildlife Network 1328 Chestnut St. #393 Emmaus, PA 18049 Voice: (610) 481-9452 Fax: (610) 481-9453 E-mail: MarcusSchn@aol.com Marcus Schneck, Executive Director From sals@rain.org Thu Mar 16 00:37:08 EST 1995 Article: 58290 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news.rain.org!coyote.rain.org!sals From: sals@rain.org () Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: WWW site Date: 13 Mar 1995 02:20:32 GMT Organization: RAIN Public Access Internet (805) 967-RAIN Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0a5g$mks@news.rain.org> References: <3jv1el$42q@paperboy.ids.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: coyote.rain.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: I have a lot of nice garden links on my home page check it out. http://www.rain.org/~sals/my.html Stephen Cotroneo (stephenc33@ids.net) wrote: : Does anyone know of WWW sites on gardening. -- Sal Schettino,Organic Farmer,don't panic eat organic,sals@rain.org or check out my homepage: http://www.rain.org/~sals/my.html . From fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:09 EST 1995 Article: 58291 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!spstimes.sps.mot.com!newsdist.sps.mot.com!risc.sps.mot.com!not-for-mail From: fmbutt@engage.sps.mot.com (Farooq Butt) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want invasive plants Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:33:26 -0600 Organization: Motorola RISC Software, Austin, Texas Lines: 9 Message-ID: <3k07d6$kk1@engage.sps.mot.com> References: <3jie0d$7ss@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> <3jtgl4$bnt@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: engage.sps.mot.com Status: RO X-Status: My vote: Lonicera Japonica Halliana (Hall's Japanese Honeysuckle). fmb -- Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING in the above article has the slightest relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's. From topsoil@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:10 EST 1995 Article: 58292 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: topsoil@aol.com (Topsoil) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Red earthworms Date: 12 Mar 1995 21:28:09 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 10 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k0ajp$e7@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jpkuh$dp2@taurus.fccc.edu> Reply-To: topsoil@aol.com (Topsoil) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Hi... Redworms thrive in situations where there is copious organic matter on which they can feed. Unfortunately, even in very good garden soil, there is seldom enough O.M. to keep them going well. However, redworms are VERY well suited to composting. I put them into my compost piles when the piles have cooled down, and they do a marvelous job of finishing the work! Good luck, E Johnson From tme9u@galen.med.Virginia.EDU Thu Mar 16 00:37:11 EST 1995 Article: 58293 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!galen.med.Virginia.EDU!tme9u From: tme9u@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (teresa m. esch) Subject: Re: Bugs, bugs, bugs! X-Nntp-Posting-Host: galen.med.virginia.edu Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: uva References: <3jtmm6$al1@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 03:30:25 GMT Lines: 11 Status: O X-Status: For help in identifying insect pests, the latest Gardens Alive! catalog has a very nice section in the back - several pages with colored pictures of many insects. I guess they also tell you how to get rid of them (although I doubt free methods such as hand picking are suggested. But then I haven't looked, so maybe I shouldn't be so quick to judge). Oh by the way, if you don't know, it's all organic stuff. teresa -- From piddipat@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:13 EST 1995 Article: 58294 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: piddipat@aol.com (Piddipat) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Community Gardens Date: 12 Mar 1995 21:33:45 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 13 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k0au9$gj@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jq7nj$6is@webe.hooked.net> Reply-To: piddipat@aol.com (Piddipat) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: RO X-Status: good advice, elizabeth also-not-a-lawyer! it just so happens that this vacant lot i have my eye on is owned by a stupid, down-and-out drug dealer, so i think i can gleefully take it over and do some gardening while waiting for the city (chicago) to gain title to it. i was told by the demolition dept. that after the city gains title i can buy it supercheap via their "adjacent neighbor" program. that's where the landowner next to a vacant lot gets first dibs on that lot. supposedly i might be able to get for for around $300 or so. i wonder if other cities have such programs? they sure don't advertise these great deals freely, do they? :D --pat murray From topsoil@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:15 EST 1995 Article: 58295 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: topsoil@aol.com (Topsoil) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help with VERMI-composting Date: 12 Mar 1995 21:36:23 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 13 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k0b37$ia@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: topsoil@aol.com (Topsoil) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I have removed the worms from the compost by using bright light. Worms avoid the light. On a warm day (or any day if you have a bright indoor light), I make a pile of the finished compost and worms, and let the light drive the worms down into the compost. After a few minutes, I scrape off a layer of the compost from the pile and set it aside. This exposes the worms to light again, and they burrow inwards again to avoid. Repeating this process should leave you with a pile of compost and a smaller pile with a great number of worms in it. The process isn't perfect -- I always have a few worms, or as you have noticed, egg cases, in the compost, but I don't mind. I just leave them, and with very little left for them to eat, they become compost quickly, too. E Johnson From piddipat@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:16 EST 1995 Article: 58296 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: piddipat@aol.com (Piddipat) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Compost piles Date: 12 Mar 1995 21:36:37 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 8 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k0b3l$ie@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3jtmes$ags@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> Reply-To: piddipat@aol.com (Piddipat) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: i have a real dinky back yard, so i bought one of those plastic turning compost bins. i really like it. it certainly is a conversation piece--you wouldn't believe how many of my neighbors ask me what the heck it is. i also set aside a tiny bit of my yard for piling compost ingredients for future use, e.g. neighbors' grass clippings, woodchips donated by the neighborhood furniture-makers ... --pat murray From joseph2644@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:17 EST 1995 Article: 58297 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: joseph2644@aol.com (Joseph2644) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Small Fruit Trees?? Date: 12 Mar 1995 21:38:02 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 13 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: joseph2644@aol.com (Joseph2644) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Janet as far as apples go,regular tree can get 20 , 25' tall,dwarf about 12 to 18' tall,extra dwarf about 10',dwarfs are also available for peaches,pears etc... if you are really limited for space consider a few hardy kiwi vines or grapes,there are also many berrys that are great looking bushes year round with the added benefit of fruit,ie.highbush blueberrys Joe P.s I,m trying collanade apple trees from Stark for the first time this year,they get about 8' tall but no branchs,about 2' around,the flowers and then fruit grow on spurs right on the trunk.I will be recieving them for planting some time this month and will post any experience with them good or bad as time goes by. From bean@holly.ColoState.EDU Thu Mar 16 00:37:18 EST 1995 Article: 58298 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!hookup!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!yuma!holly.ColoState.EDU!not-for-mail From: bean@holly.ColoState.EDU (Heather Bean) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: How long to sprout amaryllis seeds? Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:40:03 -0700 Organization: Colorado State University, Fort Collins, CO 80523 Lines: 18 Message-ID: <3k0ba3$2ovn@holly.ColoState.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: holly.acns.colostate.edu Status: O X-Status: Does anyone have any experience regarding how long amaryllis seeds take to sprout? I have some rather old seeds given to me by my grandmother -- I'm sure not many will sprout, but I have so many I'm hoping for at least one. I just want to know how long I should wait before I give up and try the next batch. I've been putting them on moist seed starting mix, covering them very lightly, putting the container in a bag, and setting them on the seed starting heat mat -- the usual regimen that I generally have very good luck with, although I've never tried amaryllis before. If anyone has any other tips specific to starting amaryllis, I'd love to hear those too! Thank You! Heather Bean From tme9u@galen.med.Virginia.EDU Thu Mar 16 00:37:20 EST 1995 Article: 58299 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!galen.med.Virginia.EDU!tme9u From: tme9u@galen.med.Virginia.EDU (teresa m. esch) Subject: Re: Novice looking for weird plants X-Nntp-Posting-Host: galen.med.virginia.edu Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: uva References: <3jtt93$1ei@thor.inlink.com> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 03:41:50 GMT Lines: 15 Status: O X-Status: raiar@vulcan.inlink.com writes: > > If you really want unusual plants, take some flower seeds to your dentinst and have him X-ray the packages. In some cases, you will come out with some real beauts. > > Gary > Is this really true? That would be so cool! How about uv irradiation? teresa -- From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:21 EST 1995 Article: 58300 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Christine Owens postings Date: 13 Mar 1995 02:55:43 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 15 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0c7f$2js@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3jvhtv$2le@nntp.interaccess.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: In <3jvhtv$2le@nntp.interaccess.com> June Meyer writes: > >In article Ian, grumbo@niagara.com >writes: >>I am impressed Christine.. U had an answer for EVERYONE ;^} > > >I learned more from Christine's multi postings than I did in a semester >of study. Thanks Christine. > Flattery will get you anywhere. :) I'm glad you found something interesting in my ramblings. BTW, I really do prefer to be called "Chris" From heverlyj@ccnet.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:22 EST 1995 Article: 58301 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!ccnet.com!ccnet.com!not-for-mail From: heverlyj@ccnet.com (Jerry Heverly) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Crab Grass -- how to grow?? Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:01:33 -0800 Organization: CCnet Communications (510-988-7140 guest) Lines: 18 Message-ID: <3k0cid$fd8@ccnet3.ccnet.com> References: <3k06ms$sfa@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ccnet3 X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: NadiaI (nadiai@aol.com) wrote: : I would like to grow crab grass for a high traffic/dog area. Any ideas : how : I could go about this? You gotta help us here. There are several plants that people call crabgrass. The 'true' plant is *Digitaria*, an annual that comes back each spring. It grows in a kind of circle from a central stolon. The base of each stem is purplish. Then there's bermuda grass, *Cynodon*, a wiry perennial grass that creeps along the ground. Or *Poa annua*, annual bluegrass, a little plant with a distinctive seedhead. And there are probably others. Can you ID it from these? Jerry Heverly, Instr. of hort, Diablo Valley College, Pleasant Hill, CA -- Jerry Heverly, Oakland, CA From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:24 EST 1995 Article: 58302 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Moles, I think... Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:03:52 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0cmo$2ri@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Well, my grandfather was a big fan of a roller, but I prefer poison. (You can't use the "water cure" on moles because they fill in their tunnels behind themselves.) My neighbor swears by one of those little electronic warning systems; but it only works as long as he leaves it turned on. If you do choose to go the poison route, please buy one of the brands that is designed to be buried. (It has been a few years, but the last time I had to do this, I was able to buy something that looked like a tree stake that you pounded into the ground.) Please do not leave poison laying around where a pet, or -- God-forbid! -- a child could find it. Chris Owens >I think I have a problem with moles. My yard looks like it has a bad case of acne. >There are mounds of dirt all over the place. There are however no clear signs of >holes. It just looks like the dirt was piled up. The ground is very soft and hollow >under the mounds. What is the best and easiest way to get id of my new friends. >HELP! >Thanks, >Ed From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:25 EST 1995 Article: 58303 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Aug/Sept PERENNIALS Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:04:30 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0cnu$2rm@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Try some of the hybrid oriental lillies -- I used to grow them in Illinois, so they should do fine. They come in a variety of heights, and the most brilliant shades of red / pink / white. Chris Owens >I am looking for some perennials that would do well in one half day >afternoon sun, would be about three feet tall and red or bright pink in >color that would do well in Illinois in clay soil and bloom for a good >part of Aug. and Sept. I have thought of Firefly Phlox or perhaps some >Cleome which is not a perennial but booms at this time. My garden really >looks too green in Aug. and Sept. and I need to liven up the color. >Any suggestions? From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:26 EST 1995 Article: 58304 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Trees from the seeds?? Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:05:02 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 37 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0cou$2rt@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: You may not be too thrilled with the results; because most modern fruit is grown on grafted stock -- so, the really wonderful peach you just ate, for example, will have a pit that has a seed for a tree that is not very like its parent. Some fruits, citrus, for example, also have a very high percentage of sterile seeds. But, if you are still interested: You can't do this with fruit you buy at the grocery store. It was picked green, and the seed didn't have time to develop. The best way to get a good seed is to go to an orchard, and collect over-ripe fruit. When you get the fruit home, plant the entire piece of fruit in a large pot filled with a mix of 1/4 peat moss, 1/4 vermiculite, 1/4 potting soil, and 1/4 composted manure. Put the pot outside. Keep it watered, and mulch it well in winter. When the tree gets to be 12 - 18 inches, transplant to a prepared site in your yard. Expect germination to take several months, and to have a high failure rate. Good luck. Chris Owens >I have been trying, unsuccessfully to start various fruit trees from the >seeds of their fruit. This may seem really ignorant but I had never seen >or read anything on the subject of tree starting. > >Can anyone help. Is it even possible? >Thanks in advance > >Bill From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:27 EST 1995 Article: 58305 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Is rot a problem with daylilies ? Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:05:34 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0cpu$2so@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: RO X-Status: Any bare-root plant is susceptible to rot. I would say you handled it just fine; although I would have added some sulphur for insurance. Throw away the root pieces, they won't grow new daylilies -- you need a piece of crown for that. (BTW, a few years down the road, when you are dividing your daylillies, remember to cut vertically through the crown portion so that every new plant has both roots and crown.) Good luck. Chris Owens > >I just received some nice daylilies. One of them had a teeny little >mushy area near the crown. I cut away a small amount of roots and >the rest of the plant seems OK. Are bare-root daylilies >susceptible to rot, should I do anything else or was even the little >I did strictly unecessary ? BTW: a couple of the daylilies had >a few roots break off. Should I plant the 1 inch thingies anyway >hoping for plants in a year or so ? > >fmb From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:28 EST 1995 Article: 58306 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Red earthworms Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:06:08 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 20 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0cr0$2sr@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: RO X-Status: Well, judging by my garden, where you can't dig without hitting an earthworm or twenty, they not only survive -- they are sex- mad! :) The 500 that I got from Gardens Alive! seem to have become several million in short order. You might up the survival rate by putting them on freshly- turned earth, so they can dig down faster. Also, do this after the birds have had their sunrise breakfast, or you are just performing an expensive form of bird-feeding. Good luck. Chris Owens >I just ordered 500 red earthworms from Garden Alive. I am assuming that >the worms will really survive to improve my garden. Do they really >survive in the garden once released? Any suggestions for better survival? > >Diane From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:30 EST 1995 Article: 58307 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: are wildflowers do-able in nice neighborhood? Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:06:41 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 28 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0cs1$30n@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Buy your seed from a reputable dealer in wild-flower seeds. Select your mixture carefully for both appropriateness to your area, and final desired height. (I am particularly partial to field poppies, myself: They have a long blooming season, and rarely get taller than 2 feet.) Plow the field under to give the seeds the best chance of competing with the grass. BTW, if I had a lot that was zoned for keeping them, and big enough, NOTHING would stop me from having a horse! Good luck. Chris Owens > I live in a nice neighborhood where everyone has at least an acre per lot. most of my >immediate neighbors have their house on the front of the lot and forest on the back while >my lot was divided into a horse pasture (2/3 acre) and the house lot (2/3 acre) which is >wooded. since i don't think i want a pet horse or two at this time, i am considering >seeding the pasture with wildflowers. i think it would be prettier and i would have to mow >the bermuda all season long. > > my question is, is it possible to convert an area like this to look pretty enough for a >nice neighborhood? my pasture is the corner lot and alot of people walk by everyday >and i'd hate to have it look like an overgrown weed field? i've read some articles, and >they make it sound like initially it would be alot of work to seed, but once done, it would >be beautiful and only need bi-annual cutting. any suggestions? From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:30 EST 1995 Article: 58308 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Natural repellants for cats Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:07:18 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 16 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0ct6$30t@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: He should mind the cats, strays are rarely vaccinated for rabies. I have always had success with open bottles of white vinegar. Cats hate the smell. He might also want to consider live- trapping them for turning over the ASPCA. Chris Owens >I have a friend with a stray cat problem in his neighborhood. >(There are dozens.) He doesn't mind the cats but their urine seems >to kill some of his plants. Are there any natural ways to discourage >the cats from entering his garden? > >thanks >jeanne From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:32 EST 1995 Article: 58309 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seed Starting Indoors/Hel Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:07:47 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0cu3$30v@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: If they are surface-sown seeds that need light to germinate, you need to put them under the lights right away. If they are buried seeds, it doesn't matter either way. Chris Owens >I am going to attempt to start my plants indoors this year under >fluorescent lights. I am not sure if I put the plants under the lights >to germinate them or wait until the seedlings break the surface? What >is the way to go? Thanks for the help. From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:33 EST 1995 Article: 58310 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gophers Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:08:17 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0cv1$312@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: I have always had success with flooding them out, but this only works early in the game. Try putting poison bait deep -- as in deep enough that a pet or child is not going to find it -- into their holes. Chris Owens >seems like i've got gophers - anyone got any ideas 'bout how i can get rid of >them? although i'm normally a pacifist, after the torture these critters have >put me through i'm all for killing them any way i can - slowly and painfully >if possible :-) - i'm really ready to get out of the salad bar bussiness! > >ron From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:35 EST 1995 Article: 58311 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Horse Manure Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:08:46 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 17 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0cvu$317@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Smell is the best clue -- if it still smells like horse, it isn't composted enough; if it smells like freshly-turned earth, it is. However, properly composted manure will also be dark and crumbly, as opposed to clods filled with straw. Chris Owens >I am planning to get several pickup truck loads of horse manure >this weekend and I haven't seen it yet. Is there any way to tell >if it's composted enough to use as mulch on berry bushes and also >to till into my garden area other than smell? I know that if it >smells "fresh", it's not broken down enough, but I'm not sure of >any other sure fire ways to know that it is okay. Suggestions? > >-- >Nita Richard From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:37 EST 1995 Article: 58312 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pruning Dwarf Conifers Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:09:23 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 42 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0d13$319@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: The picea has a single burst of growth each year, the others are more even in their growing -- basically all summer long. You can prune any of them at any time, just be aware that it will destroy a year of growing on the picea branches you cut. I have found that cutting a tree back to six to eight inches smaller than I want it to be works best. You can use a hedge clippers if you want a maincured look, or just prune off individual branches if you want a more natural look on the cryptomeria, tsuga, and chamaecyparis. Cut individual branches on the picea. Chris Owens >I need some advice on when and how to prune dwarf conifers in the picea, >cryptomeria, tsuga and chamaecyparis families. > >Here's my situation: I have quite a few dwarf conifers in my garden that >are starting to outgrow their garden space. I would like to be able to >prune them so that they don't grow very much bigger. But I'm afraid to >disfigure them by pruning them incorrectly. > >For example, I have several blue spruce cultivars, 'Montgomery' and >others, all similar. And a number of other cultivars of dwarf spruces and >dwarf firs. Our winter here in the San Francisco Bay Area hsa been very >wet and mild and these spruces are all budded and nearly ready to grow. >Can I cut back _now_ to a well-placed bud? Can I cut back into last >year's wood now, and expect to get growth from a node? > >The dwarf cryptomeria is already sprouting from all its buds. Same with >the dwarf cedrus. Too late to prune for this year? > >I've sheared the many dwarf chamaecyparis and the dwarf hemlocks in spite >of the fact that they had already started to put on spring growth. But I >don't want to shear the spruces... > >Any advice will be appreciated... > >Jan Mountjoy From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:38 EST 1995 Article: 58313 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Questions about espalier fruit trees Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:10:09 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 32 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0d2h$31k@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: I have always used young trees 5-6 feet, with several slender branches for espaliering. The branches should still be very flexible. I would imagine that some rootstock is better than others, but I have always just used what came to hand, and have never had a failure. ess pah leer (it means fence in French). Good luck. You have embarked on a project that will give you many years of challenge and enjoyment, not to mention the best yields you have ever seen! Chris Owens >: I am hoping to plant two pear trees next to a fence and >: train them in espalier form, but I am running into some >: problems and have some questions. >: >: The nurserys I have contacted about trees, have suggested >: that I start with a young branchless whip. I have called >: every nursery in Portland but no one sells such young trees. >: does any know where I can find branchless whips? (as in trees) >: >: My second question is: Are there some varities better than >: others for training in this form? What root stock should I >: look for? >: >: My third question is: Exactly how do you pronounce "ESPALIER"? >: I am embarrassing myself every where I call. From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:40 EST 1995 Article: 58314 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: ?'s about growing tomatoes in pots Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:10:40 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 19 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0d3g$31o@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: 5 gallon pots. Stakes make harvesting easier, cages are easier to use; both work well to support the plant. Don't forget to give your tomatoes plenty of water. Chris Owens >Hi all: > >I will be growing several varieties of determinate (4 to 4 1/2' high) tomatoes >in pots for the first time this season. I was wondering: > >How large a pot should I use for a plant of this size? > >Should I stake them or use cages? > >TIA for any help > >Peter Michel From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:41 EST 1995 Article: 58315 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tree tomatoes Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:11:11 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0d4f$31r@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Sounds like hype to me. Never heard of a tree that produced tomatoes, only vines. (Maybe they have a variety that can be trained to a tree-like habit?) Chris Owens >I saw an advertisment for tree tomatoes. The pictures looked like cut >tomatoes. The hype said the were tomatoes and tasted great. The price >was reasonable. Somehow, I get the feeling that they are trying to sucker >me. > >What can anyone tell me about tree tomatoes? > >William Buchman From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:42 EST 1995 Article: 58316 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Gardens Alive Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:11:46 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0d5i$31v@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Gardens Alive! 5100 Schenley Place Lawrenceburg IN 47025 >Hi everyone, >I've seen lots of folks mention Gardens Alive as a good source for pest >control items. Would someone please post the address and phone # ? > >Thanks, >Keisha From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:43 EST 1995 Article: 58317 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: When to put down sod? Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:12:29 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 13 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0d6t$33e@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Now is better. The roots start growing before the stems do. BTW, keep everyone off the new sod for a few weeks to give it time to establish. Chris Owens >I have a 12' x 20' mud patch in my yard that I want to sod. Can I put down >the sod now, or do I need to wait for the grass to start growing again. I'm >in zone 7 (Kansas City). > >Thanks, >Kevin From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:44 EST 1995 Article: 58318 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Apples! Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:13:09 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 26 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0d85$33k@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Your two biggest risks are apple maggots and birds. Use horticultural oil and trap lures to control the maggots, netting to keep the birds at bay. You might also want to watch the tree carefully for signs of stress. It really isn't well-established enough to be producing fruit; plus, the weight of the fruit may damage the young branches. Better to sacrifice this year's crop than lose the tree. Chris Owens > >Hi all! Thanks for all the responses on my lawn/tulip questions. My tulips are >coming up nicely and the lawn looks better, >One more question.. I've just noticed that our (planted dormant in december) 5 >in 1 apple tree actually has apples! They are about the size of a large >marble-one branch has yellowish fruit, the other red. My question is this-now >that the fruit is starting to appear-how can I protect it? (from insects, >mostly). What insects destroy apples? We almost lost an orange tree last >summer from the grasshoppers, and I'd like to see just how big these little >apples will become (I didn't expect any fruit out of these trees this year, so >if they turn out small, ah well..). >I don't notice any insect damage so far, but I want to be prepared. >We're in Zone 9, I believe - Southern California. >Can I cover them with mesh? Horribly disgusting carcinogenic pesticides? :) > >Heather From hanly@stan.brandonu.ca Thu Mar 16 00:37:46 EST 1995 Article: 58319 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!newsflash.concordia.ca!canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca!news.brandonu.ca!stan.brandonu.ca!hanly Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mold invasion Message-ID: <1995Mar12.205943.1@stan.brandonu.ca> From: hanly@stan.brandonu.ca Date: 12 Mar 95 20:59:43 CST References: <1995Mar9.183732.1418@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil> Organization: Brandon University, Brandon, Manitoba, Canada Nntp-Posting-Host: buster.brandonu.ca Lines: 18 Status: O X-Status: In article <1995Mar9.183732.1418@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil>, welshg@rl.af.mil (Glenn T. Welsh) writes: > I beleive all your 'mold' problems are a thing called 'dappening off' ! Try > this; be sure your planting medium has super drainage (add lots of > vermiculite). The ready to use plant/seed starter mediums are not recommended. I have a number of peat pots with considerable mold of different hues containing tomato seedlings, peppers, and egg plants, in which the seedlings are thriving and not damping off at all. It seems possible to have molds without damping off. The mold seems to form on the jiffy pots made of peat but not on plastic. I have found that commercial starting mixes work fine for my purposes. What doesn't work well, for starting seeds, potting soil mix. Commercial mixtures without soil seem to be working fine for me. It is when I used non-sterilized soil that I had problems with damping off. Lack of humidity or drying of the surface of the peat pot seems to kill the molds. Cheers, Ken Hanly between Zone 2 and 3. Don't put plants too close to the windows here unless there are no drafts. You'll freeze them. I know! From cower@Csli.Stanford.EDU Thu Mar 16 00:37:48 EST 1995 Article: 58320 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!news.Stanford.EDU!not-for-mail From: cower@Csli.Stanford.EDU (Richard Cower) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mulching mulberry leaves - any problems? Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:16:12 -0800 Organization: Stanford University Lines: 6 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <3k0dds$ndf@Csli.Stanford.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: csli.stanford.edu Status: O X-Status: I was told not to mulch mulberry leaves in my garden. Anyone know why? The person who told me not to do it suggested there was some bad substance in them. thanks...rich From gary.mcneill@acornbbs.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:50 EST 1995 Article: 58321 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!holonet!colossus.holonet.net!acornbbs!gary.mcneill From: gary.mcneill@acornbbs.com Subject: Plant labels/ markers Message-ID: <9503122152.0UPXP00@acornbbs.com> Organization: Acorn BBS X-Mailer: TBBS/PIMP v3.25/PRIMP 1.56p Distribution: world Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 21:52:03 -0500 Lines: 14 Status: O X-Status: FYI: An alternative to spending much money for plant labels: keep an eye out for used / broken mini - blinds! These cheap blinds are often thrown out, but looked at a different way, they are a large supply of any size marker for the spring seedlings. (Every year I say "This year I will label *every* tomato and pepper plant!) GARY -> TIMM (1.0 Final 1) The Ideal Macintosh Mail reader From tdalbec@kaiwan.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:51 EST 1995 Article: 58322 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!rahul.net!a2i!kaiwan.kaiwan.com!NewsWatcher!user From: tdalbec@kaiwan.com (td) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: What to grow Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:28:12 GMT Organization: kaiwan Lines: 17 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: kaiwan009.kaiwan.com Status: O X-Status: I tried to send an earlier post, but I don't know if my newsreader sent it or not.... My wife and I have a cabin that is about 5,600 ft elevation. We are there an average of 3+ days a week. The soil is sandy/rocky and we have a very steep hill for a back yard. What we are looking for are some herbs/vegtables or whatever that we can grow. We would also like to grow erosion/fire retardant/anticritter/ground cover plants. If these can be combined, so much the better. Any help or suggestions would be appricatied. tom -- td From storytel@ripco.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:52 EST 1995 Article: 58323 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!gail.ripco.com!storytel From: storytel@ripco.com (Conrad Lawrence) Subject: Replace lilies of the valley with what? Message-ID: Keywords: north lillies groundcover Sender: usenet@rci.ripco.com (Net News Admin) Organization: Ripco Internet BBS, Chicago X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 02:59:10 GMT Lines: 9 Status: O X-Status: I'm not a gardener so I need help? I live in Chicago and want to dig up the patch of lilies of the valley on the north side of the house. They look great for about 3 weeks then they get spots and die. I want a ground cover or low plant that is maintenance free. The area is about 12' x 6'. From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:53 EST 1995 Article: 58324 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Mushy Vegetables Date: 12 Mar 1995 02:43:17 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 17 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jtn45$aqi@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> References: <3jtht3$c0s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc7-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Stop storing your veggies in those open-air bags. They are turning limp because they are dehydrating. Chris Owens >I believe we've talked about this before, but I need a reminder. I >have been very successful growing carrots and celery this winter. >When I harvest them, I bring them in the house, wash and dry them, >and put them in the refrigerator in those new "vegetable" bags (plastic >bags with little air holes). > >Even though the vegetables are quite crisp coming out of the garden, >they get rubbery in the house. Anyone have any suggestions? > > >-- > Naomi Walker From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:54 EST 1995 Article: 58325 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Carpenter Ants Killing our Oak tree Date: 12 Mar 1995 02:44:09 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 26 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jtn5p$arf@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> References: <3jtht3$c0s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc7-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Carpenter Ants don't eat live wood, so what they are doing is eating out the dead center of the oak. (Oaks have this habit of developing a dead center, which is often hollow because of the action of animals like carpenter ants.) However, you don't want the ants hanging around, because they will also like your house just fine! Call an arborist for an opinion on how to handle this problem. Chris Owens > > We have a decent Oak tree in our front yard, and it was fine up until >about 5 years ago. It is a fairly young tree, I think it's only about 20 >years old or so, I think it was about 5 feet tall when we got it. Now it's >about 35 to 40 feet tall. Anyway, carpenter ants have been eating into one >side of the tree, about 4 feet off the ground. Now you can see a gaping >hole in the tree, and there is no bark on a spot of about 5 inches in >diameter. I kept spraying the tree with different insecticides, hoping to >kill off the ants, and let the tree heal up, but it has not worked. I kill >off some ants, but then they just recover and go on. I even tried systemic >insecticides, but that did not work either. Finally, I tried using GE >silicone Rubber, and coated the dead portion of the tree, hoping to cut off >the ants from their food supply, but they just ate out around the stuff. >Any suggestions? I really don't want to have to cut down the tree, but I >don't know if I'll have any choice if this keeps up for another couple of >years.... From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:55 EST 1995 Article: 58326 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How do I get rid of blue rug juniper? Date: 12 Mar 1995 02:44:47 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 21 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jtn6v$aru@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> References: <3jtht3$c0s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc7-05.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: You need a spade, a pickaxe, a heavy pruning shears, and -- if at all possible -- some help. Use the shears to cut off as many of the branches as you can. Then, take the spade and cut the roots all the way around the former drip line. Using the pickaxe as a lever, pry a length of root out of the ground from the stem end, then pull it completely out. (This takes a lot of strength, and is where help is a real advantage.) Repeat until all the roots are pulled. Watering the area a couple of hours before you start will help, as will a good pair of work gloves. Good luck. Chris Owens >I want to remove blue rug juniper from a spot in my yard? > >Suggestions, please. > >Thanks >Anita From rfc@freenet.vancouver.bc.ca Thu Mar 16 00:37:57 EST 1995 Article: 58327 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!news.Direct.CA!scipio.cyberstore.ca!vanbc.wimsey.com!unixg.ubc.ca!freenet.vancouver.bc.ca!rfc From: rfc@freenet.vancouver.bc.ca (Randy Cosby) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What's BLOOMIN' in your part of the land? Date: 13 Mar 1995 03:19:22 GMT Organization: Vancouver Regional FreeNet Lines: 36 Message-ID: <3k0djq$jr9@freenet.vancouver.bc.ca> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: localhost X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Scott shy (shyguy@bbs.gatecom.com) wrote: : >In article , spcburke@cicero.spc.uchicago.edu : > (Patrick Burke) writes: : >> : >>Chicago, Zone 5/6 : >> : >>SNOW! We have fields and fields of snow! The warmest January : > in : >>decades, and here it is March and we're getting buried. No : > hint : >>of spring outdoors, but my seeds are sprouting by the south-facing : >>window. Rather pleased about that. : >> : >In Baton Rouge, LA (a very warm zone 8) : > : >Calla lilies, Rose "Angle Face" planted bareroot in January : > (my first rose), : >coreopsis, Rosemary, impatience, verbena, geraniums (potted), : > gebera daisy, : >wax begonias, azaleas ... : >weeds: clover, buttercups, violets and more. : In Ferndale,MI(near Detroit), 5/6: : My snowdrops are up and flowering and my star of Bethlehem bulbs have : lots of leaves. The tulips and poppies are breaking ground, and as I : write this the temp is 42 and going to rise to 56, with three more days : of 60+! Hurray! : Tammy : Gateway Online ... 38 Line Multi-user Interactive Information System : Taylor, Michigan - (313)291-5571 2400 baud (313)291-5571 9600 baud : Sysops: Bill Mullen - Jeff Breitner Here in Vancouver, BC, Canada we have crocuses and daffodils in full bloom, along with Japanese Cherry Trees. Today (Sunday) I noticed the first azaleas in bloom also From mfrost@primenet.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:58 EST 1995 Article: 58328 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news.primenet.com!ip059.lax.primenet.com!mfrost From: mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: seedlings for kids Date: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 10:56:32 PST Organization: Primenet Lines: 17 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: ip059.lax.primenet.com X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4] Status: O X-Status: In article jgolden@cbmse.nrl.navy.mil (Joel Golden) writes: >From: jgolden@cbmse.nrl.navy.mil (Joel Golden) >Subject: seedlings for kids >Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 12:36:51 >What's a good plant for a class of kids to sprout seeds? This brings back fond elementary school memories: beans on moist paper towels inside a clear container. They sprout fast enough for a child's interest and don't cost much. We also had a sweet potato sprout a long vine, and onions sprout, pineapple tops or avocado seeds sprout suspended in jar over water. These would be interesting because it shows our food is alive (barring irradiated stuff). If that is too mundane, we also did calendula-plantings in milk containers, some plants managed to bloom after a while. It has been over 40 years, and I still recall those lessons with fondness. Regards, Martha mfrost@primenet.com From ledwards@crl.com Thu Mar 16 00:37:59 EST 1995 Article: 58329 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!crl6.crl.com!not-for-mail From: ledwards@crl.com (Lynn Edwards) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: indoor fluorescent lighting Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:32:13 -0800 Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access (415) 705-6060 [Login: guest] Lines: 46 Message-ID: <3k0ebt$oar@crl6.crl.com> References: <3jn480$ii9@taco.cc.ncsu.edu> <3jvf8k$8kl@morrow.stanford.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: crl6.crl.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Dawn Burgess (dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU) wrote: : In article , kc@tiac.net (Kevin Crader) : says: : [Argument that plain fluorescent tubes work fine for plants deleted] : Then, In article plantone@iquest.net (Stan) : writes: : [Argument that special grow lights are needed deleted] : [story about Orchard Supply Hardware, who says that ordinary cool whites : are just fine deleted...] I've used fluorescent lights for many years to get a head start on springtime for my tomatoes and peppers. I've used cool white (cheap) tubes as well as vita-lite and glow-lux (expensive). I've used them side by side while comparing results with as much care as can be reasonably expected (without goverment funding, anyway). The end result: I can't document any difference between them. The grow-lux and vita-lite bulbs did not do any worse than the cheap tubes, but they didn't fare any better either. My advice currently is to use the cheap ones. Why spend the extra money? I'm not a commercial gardener, but I am not a novice either. My vegatable garden is 1300 square feet, and this year I will be growing 55 different varieties of peppers (spanning 9 species, 165 plants total) and 16 kinds of tomatoes. I couldn't find any references in the many gardening books that I own that claimed that the expensive lights were required - and quite a few said they were unnecessary. My books are not specific to a particular growing philosophy. I like to read from all sources - from Organic Gardening to Ortho's publications. It seems that the connection between full spectrum tubes and healthier seedlings is weak, from the info I have and my own experience. In that vain I would be interested in hearing other exeriences, both pro and con. Any reference to controlled studies would also be warmly received. Also, please note: I use fluorescent lighting for seedlings only. I found several references saying that full spectrum tubes were necessary for flowering, setting fruit, and making viable seeds. ---Lynn Edwards Los Altos, California, USA From mfrost@primenet.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:00 EST 1995 Article: 58330 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.primenet.com!ip082.lax.primenet.com!mfrost From: mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: re: lavender source Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 12:59:49 PST Organization: Primenet Lines: 8 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: ip082.lax.primenet.com X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4] Status: O X-Status: To the person who wanted a source for commercial lavender production: I have a copy of FEB '95 BBC Gardeners' World. Page 77 there is an offer (to UK customers only) for several varieties of lavender from Norfolk Farms, which is the last commercial size producer of lavender oil in England. You may be able to contact the farm with your specific request at: Norfolk Lavenders, Ltd, Caley Mill, Heacham, Norfolk, PE31 7 JE. I hope this helps. Regards, Martha mfrost@primenet.com From mfrost@primenet.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:01 EST 1995 Article: 58331 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.primenet.com!ip082.lax.primenet.com!mfrost From: mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What's Blooming... Date: Sun, 12 Mar 1995 13:09:40 PST Organization: Primenet Lines: 11 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: ip082.lax.primenet.com X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #4] Status: O X-Status: Here in Los Angeles foothills the grass is green and cloaking the hillsides. Our scrub oaks are blooming, oxalis shows its cheery face, the yellow contrasting with wild erigeron's tiny purple flowers, the wild cumcumber is wrapping around everything, native peony forming seed heads. The peaches, plums, apricots, narcissus, hardenbergia, blue gum are done, but iris is going strong. Camellia, Potato flower, pink jasmine, lemon, lime, orange, lavender, rosemary, stocks, 1 early calendula, blue hibicus, a few roses (Dainty Bess, Cherry Vanilla), some zonal geraniums, scented geraniums (Mabel Grey), purple cistus, some iceplant, and the elms. Weeping bottlebrush about to explode. Regards, Martha mfrost@primenet.com From ledwards@crl.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:02 EST 1995 Article: 58332 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!crl6.crl.com!not-for-mail From: ledwards@crl.com (Lynn Edwards) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Plants from vegetable seeds?? Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:56:23 -0800 Organization: CRL Dialup Internet Access (415) 705-6060 [Login: guest] Lines: 32 Message-ID: <3k0fp7$p07@crl6.crl.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: crl6.crl.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Marc Scholl (marcscholl@delphi.com) wrote: : This may sound like a naive question, but what are the reasons, if any, : that you can't start plants from their the seeds of vegetables (peas from : nts and cucumbers) bought at frut and vegetable stands rather : than from packages of seeds? Or can you? You can start _SOME_ seeds and plants from store bought produce, and in these instances it can be the cheapest method. However, most plants cannot be propagated this way because they are hybrids. Hybrids are a cross between two different varieties and don't breed true (what you get the next generation is not the same as the parent fruit). Most commercially grown fruit and vegatables are hybrids. Second problem is that many fruits are picked unripe. Therefore the fruits have not yet produced viable seeds yet and are therefore probably not fertile. Third problem is that some plants that would normally sprout and grow spontaneously have been treated chemically to prevent just that. Potatoes are a good example. It is difficult (but not impossible) to get grocery store bought potatoes to grow. That is why potatoes to be planted instead of stored/eaten are listed as "seed" potatoes. I've had good results from planting grocery store bought garlic, horseradish, shallots, and some fresh peppers (they have to be ripe [yellow or red]). Dried peppers have also had limited success - but they have to have been dried without heat or smoke. ---Lynn Edwards Los Altos, California, USA From jstier@yu1.yu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:38:03 EST 1995 Article: 58333 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!das-news2.harvard.edu!oitnews.harvard.edu!cmcl2!thecourier.cims.nyu.edu!yu1.yu.edu!jstier From: Jeff Stier Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Compost piles Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 01:53:03 -0500 Organization: Courant Institute of Mathematical Sciences Lines: 14 Message-ID: References: <3jtht3$c0s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jtmes$ags@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: dopey.cs.nyu.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In-Reply-To: <3jtmes$ags@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> Status: O X-Status: My compost pile cooled off over the winter...plenty of carbon material.......but now what. You mentioned yeast- how does that help? Because its alive? I hear hops are good.... What else can I use? Produce/salad clippings? What else is high in nitrogen and available now.... I can't wait for grass clippings! ****************************************************************************** Jeff Stier jstier@yu1.yu.edu !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! From nedehn@artsci.wustl.edu Thu Mar 16 00:38:05 EST 1995 Article: 58334 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!mulberry!nedehn From: nedehn@artsci.wustl.edu (Natasha Elizabeth Dehn) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: 1994 Seeds Date: 9 Mar 1995 23:15:09 GMT Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA Lines: 30 Distribution: inet Message-ID: <3jo25t$sai@newsreader.wustl.edu> References: <1995Mar9.094853.1@iccgcc.cle.ab.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: nedehn%@mulberry.wustl.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: hartman@iccgcc.cle.ab.com wrote: : Group, : I have several packets of seeds which say "Packaged for 1994'. Can I use : these or should I buy new ones? heck, '94 is fresh compared to some of the seeds I've planted this year! : I have: : Tomato ---no problem. planted seeds several years old many times. : Squash ----also seems to work fine. : Onion ---don't know about this one. : Pumpkin ---should be same as squash. : Corn---? should be ok. : Wax Bean---no problem--done it many a time! : Thanks, : Paul Seriously, you may have a slightly lower germination rate, but unless you stored the seeds in a sauna, they should be fine for at least the first year. Viability in extended storage does vary by type--Organic Gardening published a chart sometime within the last few years, but my copies are in storage, so I can't be more specific than that...maybe someone else can? Natasha From alvogel@mailbox.syr.edu Thu Mar 16 00:38:06 EST 1995 Article: 58335 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!hookup!news.kei.com!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!newstand.syr.edu!netnews From: "A.L. Vogel" Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How long to sprout amaryllis seeds? Date: 13 Mar 1995 11:54:10 GMT Organization: Syracuse University, Syracuse NY, USA Lines: 12 Message-ID: <3k1bp2$qu4@newstand.syr.edu> References: <3k0ba3$2ovn@holly.ColoState.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: sudial-90.syr.edu Status: O X-Status: bean@holly.ColoState.EDU (Heather Bean) wrote: > > > Does anyone have any experience regarding how long amaryllis seeds take to > sprout? If your amaryllis seeds are of the kind of plant usually grown indoors, Hippeastrum hybrids, the book _Park's Success With Seeds_ says germination takes 4 to 6 weeks. It also says to plant the seeds on their sides (on edge?). Good luck with your grandmother's seeds. Gina From LS45@UNB.CA Thu Mar 16 00:38:07 EST 1995 Article: 58336 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!news.unb.ca!UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA From: "D. Savoie" Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Love lies bleeding-Amaranthus Date: 13 MAR 95 07:47:14 AST Organization: The University of New Brunswick Lines: 7 Sender: usenet@UNB.CA Message-ID: <13MAR95.08410221.0046@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA> NNTP-Posting-Host: unbvm1.csd.unb.ca Status: O X-Status: One book I have mentions that Love lies bleeding looks good in a container with the tassles hanging down (I thought about a grain barrel), but none of the catalogues I have mention it being good for containers, and so I was wondering what others had done with theirs. Thanks for your assistance, D. Savoie From seremjia@it.uwp.edu Thu Mar 16 00:38:08 EST 1995 Article: 58337 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!cs.uwp.edu!it!seremjia From: seremjia@it.uwp.edu (Peggy Seremjian) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help with VERMI-composting Date: 13 Mar 1995 04:22:54 GMT Organization: University of Wisconsin - Parkside Lines: 27 Message-ID: <3k0hau$i62@cs.uwp.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: it.uwp.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: : Can it be put back it with the worms for a second try? yup. : Are there some things that even the worms won't eat? mine dont like citrus or onions. They are vegetarians, too. I've found that carrot ends take forever to go away. : They seem to have trouble with the boston fern "roots" and some plant leaves. They really dont start on it till it gets semi-rotten. : Can the compost be used directly on my house plants? I do it all the time. : I've found that the shredded news paper gets matted down, is there a : better bedding material? I've found that to be the case with newspaper, too. They seem to be happy with it, however. Paper egg cartons are nice. Its the same thing in a different form. My _favorite_ bedding is partially finished compost, but that is unfortunately a seasonal delight in Wisconsin. You can buy commercial worm bedding, too. Looked like newspaper fuzzballs to me. Anyone have experience with it? Seems like a waste of money when the newspaper is free. (well, not free but certainly a sunk cost) I fed mine the IRS regulations last year and they seemed to particularly like that.. Peg From KTyrrell@lamg.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:09 EST 1995 Article: 58338 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcomsv!uucp3.netcom.com!lamgnet!KTyrrell From: KTyrrell@lamg.com (Kerin Tyrrell) Reply-To: KTyrrell@lamg.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Distribution: world Subject: Sweetheart Ivy Reversion Date: 12 Mar 1995 15:13:03 GMT Message-ID: <2252529629.1042885@lamg.com> Organization: Los Angeles Macintosh Group BBS Lines: 16 Status: O X-Status: Anybody know why sweetheart ivy would 'revert' and send of shoots with traditional ivy-type leaves? Bought some sweetheart ivy last fall and combined it with ivy geraniums for some large pots to put on the front porch. Left the pots out in the back yard until they looked showy and pretty much ignored them lately with all the rain we've been getting out in So. Calif. lately. Went out last week and noticed shoots with the traditional lobed leaves. For info: I'm in zone 10 so really no frost, filtered sun, they didn't get lots of fertilizer, and the pots are well drained so I don't think all this rain is the problem. Sooooo, do they just do this or can I fix it by doing/not doing something? Thanks, Kerin From seremjia@it.uwp.edu Thu Mar 16 00:38:11 EST 1995 Article: 58339 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!cs.uwp.edu!it!seremjia From: seremjia@it.uwp.edu (Peggy Seremjian) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Should I buy worms? Date: 13 Mar 1995 04:31:16 GMT Organization: University of Wisconsin - Parkside Lines: 19 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k0hqk$i62@cs.uwp.edu> References: <3k029g$otp@parsifal.nando.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: it.uwp.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Mary Spencer (mspencer@nando.net) wrote: : Well, should I buy worms? I've seen some in my soil, but for what they do : it seems that more would help out. DO I naturally have as many worms as : my organic matter can carry, or would buying more help? The soil I had experience with was a heavy clay soil with almost no earthworms. I amended it with *lots* of organic matter (8-10" tilled in in the fall, plus organic mulch all season) and the earthworms came in droves. I have no idea how they know its there, but there were 50-100 every spadeful compared to almost none where I had made no efforts toward soil improvement. If Jim McNelly reads this, perhaps he'll add more, particularly on the number of worms your soil can support. I got my wormbox after reading his posts on vermicomposting on Prodigy a few years back. He knows his worms, thats for sure! :) Peg From Peter@leopard.diges.net Thu Mar 16 00:38:12 EST 1995 Article: 58340 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news1.digex.net!usenet From: Peter@leopard.diges.net Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mice Date: 13 Mar 1995 04:35:36 GMT Organization: Express Access Online Communications, USA Lines: 5 Message-ID: <3k0i2o$2fv@news1.digex.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: leopard.digex.net X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.) Status: O X-Status: rrec.gardens Mice- seedlings being cut off at night - may not be cutworms but MICE - set out a trap or two and see what happens (caught 4 when I lost hald my seedlings!!!) From Billsfan@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:13 EST 1995 Article: 58341 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: Billsfan@ix.netcom.com (Edward Gilbert) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: DAYLILIES.. Date: 13 Mar 1995 12:53:55 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 178 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k1f93$3as@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> References: <7788-16604803@mcube.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-roc1-17.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: In <7788-16604803@mcube.com> rshiell@mcube.com writes: > > >In response to: >IB>I don't know much about them, but would like to learn. > >Daylilies are amazingly adaptable perennials. They grow from zone 10 >(Southern California) to zone 4 (parts of Maine and Minnesota), and >flourish in nearly any soil or light conditions, except deep shade. >They store water in fleshy, thick roots, and can withstand >considerable drought, but also accept wet streamside environments. > >Specialty nurseries introduce new hybrids constantly. Several of >these nurseries advertise in garden magazines. > >Most of the best new daylily cultivars are tetraploid (doubled genes), >and some are triploid (an extra chromosome). A few new types are >compact (about a foot tall), and several re-bloom. > >Re-blooming is desirable, as each individual flower lasts about a day >(sic), and a crop of infloresences (flower stalks) only lasts about >three or four weeks in most cases. Some cultivars flower earlier than >others, and many gardeners perfer to mix several varieties in a single >planting (as one fades, another begins). > >Daylilies range from off-white to deep red, and many are two-toned, >with the throat one color and the outer surface another, darker color. >Personally, I love the green + pink and yellow + red combinations. > >One species of daylily, Hemerocallis fulva, has become an escaped weed >in parts of the midwest. Few other species re-seed much, and many >hybrids appear to be sterile. > >Richard Shiell, ASLA Bakersfield, CA RShiell@mcube.com >--- > ţ SLMR 2.1a ţ Berlandiera lyrata forever! > >-- >Mainframes, Minis & Micros | Running MajorBBS and Internet! >5630 District Blvd. #114 | Desert Jewel BBS & OnLine Mall >Bakersfield, CA 93313 | Discounted Hardware & Software >LandLine == 800-949-1959 | BBS == 805-397-2063 14.4 n-8-1 > NEWS SERVICE -- 8/29/88 DAYLILIES ARE DEPENDABLE PERENNIALS Daylilies are a welcome addition to any garden because they are relatively maintenance free. They are grown primarily for their flowers, which vary in form and color depending on the cultivar. Gardeners can choose from a wide assortment of colors, including white, yellow, orange, pink, red and purple. Often each color offers a range of shades in its own category. Differing petal shapes also add to the interest of this plant, and can be wide, slightly recurved, overlapping, crinkled, frilled or ruffled. Flower shapes can vary from trumpet and cup-like to those resembling bells. Plant size varies from one to four feet. Daylilies are dense-rooted plants that can be used as ground overs or bed plants in several locations. They are hardy perennials and require a cold-induced period to flowere the following year. After this cold period, daylilies resume growth. The flowers typically last for one day, but they are replaced the next day for as long as six weeks once blooming begins. By selecting early-mid-and late-season varieties you can extend the flowering season from May until September in many areas of Pennsylvania. The foliage is also very attractive, offering an interesting texture contrast among other broadleaf materials. Other characteristics that make daylilies an ideal garden plant are their dependability as perennials, their hardiness and their strong resistance to pests. They will survive a variety of sites that might be flooded or droughty, they tolerate heat, full sun or light shade, and do very well on little or no fertilizer. They can be grown in most areas of Pennsylvania, make excellent cut flowers, and some references suggest that the flower heads are edible. In addition to the various flowers and colors, daylilies can be divided into three categories according to foliage. The dormant types lose foliage after the first frost and the plant dies to the ground each winter. These plants produce new foliage the following spring. Semi-evergreen types only lose part of their foliage after a frost and will also grown new leaves in the spring. Evergreen types retain foliage year-round. Some semi-evergreens and evergreens can be grown in the water parts of Pennsylvania. If you have any doubt about local conditions, start out with the dormant types. Daylily plantings can be established by dividing clumps every 4 to 5 years, buying dormant fans or planting containerized plants, generally available from specialty plant producers or garden centers. Propagation of daylilies is done mainly by dividing existing clumps and is best as soon as flowering is over. However, they seem to tolerate division during their entire growing season. Immediately before division, cut the foliage back to one-half its length to make handling easier and reduce moisture loss from the plant. There is less damage to the roots and crown of the plants if you dig around the clump with a spade, and then gently lift the clump from the ground intact. Any soil should be removed by hand or washed from the roots with a strong spray of water. Once the soil has been removed, the clump can be divided into sections called fans, which are shortened stems attached to enlarged tuberous roots. Plant each fan into well-spaded soil. Set divided fans back into the new soil at the same depth as they grew originally. If you begin with dormant crowns in the spring, set them so the crown is 1 to 2 inches below the ground level. It helps to make a mound of soil in the center of the planting hole so the roots of each fan are spread at a downward angle. Never bend or fold the roots in a planting hole. Next, gradually fill in the hole with loose soil and firm it around the spreading roots. Each plant in the bed should be well watered to encourage root growth and expansion into the soil. Yearly surface applications of one-half cup of either 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 to each plant should keep them healthy. GENERAL CULTURAL NEEDS: Light: best flowering is in full sun or light shade Soil: slightly acidic, well-drained loam, well supplied with humus. Planting: may be done between April and September; space plants three to five feet a part. Water: thoroughly after planting. Ample water during the flowering period promotes high-quality blooms. Mulch: generally not necessary, but will help conserve moisture and control some weeds. In very cold locations a coarse mulch will reduce the chance of spring heaving when the soil thaws. Source: Bob Nuss +----------------------------------------------------------------------- -----+ Editor: Krista Weidner Ag Information Services -- News & Publications, Penn State July 30, 1993 Document Number: 283011159 +----------------------------------------------------------------------- -----+ Keywords: DAYLILY, FLOWER, GARDEN, NEWS-RELEASE, PENN-STATE, PENN-STATE-COLLEGE-AG-SCIENCES, PENNSYLVANIA, PERENNIALS From nedehn@artsci.wustl.edu Thu Mar 16 00:38:14 EST 1995 Article: 58342 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!newspump.wustl.edu!newsreader.wustl.edu!mulberry!nedehn From: nedehn@artsci.wustl.edu (Natasha Elizabeth Dehn) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: tomato worms Date: 8 Mar 1995 23:19:10 GMT Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA Lines: 12 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jle1e$4rm@newsreader.wustl.edu> References: <14413790.1508908@lamg.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: nedehn%@mulberry.wustl.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Jerald Brainin (jabes@lamg.com) wrote: : I am looking for an effective non-toxic answer to tomato worms????? Assuming you mean tomato hornworms, I've never had a problem with them since my chinese mint (white blooming spearmint) got established. Attracts beneficials like you wouldn't believe! Including various carnivorous and parasitic wasps.... Beware: like all mints, this one will take over the universe given the slightest opportunity! Good luck! Natasha Dehn From jbachman@pipeline.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:15 EST 1995 Article: 58343 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!news.pipeline.com!not-for-mail From: jbachman@pipeline.com (John Bachman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Paw Paw tree??? Date: 13 Mar 1995 07:56:59 -0500 Organization: The Pipeline Lines: 11 Message-ID: <3k1fer$pr9@pipe4.pipeline.com> References: <3jverm$phj@deep.rsoft.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: pipe4.pipeline.com Status: O X-Status: Paw paws grew wild in West Virginia where I grew up. I describe the fruit as a cross between a banana and a custard cream pie. It is softer and sweeter than a banana. I am trying to grow them here in New Hampshire. One of my trees will be three years old this year. The other two were planted last year. I build a teepee over them for winter as this location is very marginal for them. But I think it is worth the effort and look forward to paw paws in another year or two (if I'm lucky). -- John Bachman From jmh@shore.net Thu Mar 16 00:38:16 EST 1995 Article: 58344 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news3.near.net!noc.near.net!shore.shore.net!shore.shore.net!not-for-mail From: jmh@shore.net (Joann M. Hnat) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Heat & Light for Seeds Date: 13 Mar 1995 08:19:37 -0500 Organization: North Shore Access/Eco Software, Inc; (info@shore.net) Lines: 8 Message-ID: <3k1gp9$d1b@shore.shore.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: shore.shore.net X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: TIGIBSON (tigibson@aol.com) wrote: : do seedlings have to have artificial light? i'd like to get by with a : southern exposure. input please. No artificial light needed -- I have all sorts of seedlings growing in my south-facing windows. .. Joann From sazerb@rmii.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:17 EST 1995 Article: 58345 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!swiss.ans.net!potogold.rmii.com!usenet From: Steve Zerbe Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Guinea Pig poo as fertilizer? Date: 13 Mar 1995 05:31:38 GMT Organization: Rocky Mountain Internet Inc. Lines: 19 Message-ID: <3k0lbq$gro@potogold.rmii.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: slip876.rmii.com Status: O X-Status: Someone earlier was discussing rabbit manure as compost. My situation is that we have guinea pigs (5) that I would like to move outdoors on warm days in my yard. I have a 4x4 box with no bottom and a piece of plywood that partially covers the top. So they are free to run around the box and eat grass during the day. My question is this: Is their manure going to be okay for the grass in my yard? They are being fed a pellet mixture of soybean meal, alfalfa meal and various other incredients mixed with crushed corn. I also give them a _little_ lettuce from time to time. I also intend to move the box a few inches every day so it won't make permanent dents in what little lawn I have! Julie PS. Our poodle thinks they are his "babies" and loves to sit and watch them run around. If they squeal he comes running to see what the trouble is. From cddunn@monk.austin.cc.tx.us Thu Mar 16 00:38:18 EST 1995 Article: 58346 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.tamu.edu!monk.austin.cc.tx.us!monk.austin.cc.tx.us!not-for-mail From: cddunn@monk.austin.cc.tx.us (charles dunn) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Plants to attract hummingbirds? Date: 12 Mar 1995 23:32:46 -0600 Organization: Austin Community College Lines: 3 Message-ID: <3k0ldu$4p3@monk.austin.cc.tx.us> References: <3j57lq$7k@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jr23q$pf9@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: monk.austin.cc.tx.us X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Lonicera sempervivens (Red Honeysuckle) GrnThm (grnthm@aol.com) wrote: : Salvias. Trumpet vines. Like red flowers. From cddunn@monk.austin.cc.tx.us Thu Mar 16 00:38:19 EST 1995 Article: 58347 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.tamu.edu!monk.austin.cc.tx.us!monk.austin.cc.tx.us!not-for-mail From: cddunn@monk.austin.cc.tx.us (charles dunn) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Any experience w/ tuberoses? Date: 12 Mar 1995 23:38:22 -0600 Organization: Austin Community College Lines: 6 Message-ID: <3k0loe$4s5@monk.austin.cc.tx.us> References: <3irurc$bkq@newshound.uidaho.edu> <3jsdpa$3ea@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: monk.austin.cc.tx.us X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Tuberoses seldom rebloom here in zone 9. Sanny (sanny@aol.com) wrote: : I have grown tuberoses (zone 6), but do not have success digging them up : and overwintering them. They do bloom late and need lots of sun and : nutrients (not too much nitrogen or you will get only leaves). They are : inexpensive enough to just buy new ones. And they do smell great!! From crunchy@email.unc.edu Thu Mar 16 00:38:21 EST 1995 Article: 58348 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!email.unc.edu!crunchy From: Penny Ward Newsgroups: news.config,news.groups,misc.consumers,misc.rural,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Propose new group: alt.living.tightwad Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 09:21:38 -0500 Organization: The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill Lines: 41 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: email.unc.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In-Reply-To: <9503121137.AA11718@lonestar.jpl.utsa.edu> Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.config:562 news.groups:114246 misc.consumers:87861 misc.rural:15920 rec.gardens:58348 Status: O X-Status: On Sun, 12 Mar 1995, David O. Laro wrote: > I'd love to get more info about Maxlife before I consider subscribing. > I've had to drop one list already because of excessive traffic, you > know, 150 posts or so per day and you get behind pretty fast. If you don't want a high-traffic list, you don't want Maxlife. While we're not up to 150 posts a day, it still can fill up your mailbox pretty fast. Many people opt to subscribe under the digest format. > How old is the list? It's a little over 2 years old. > What is the tone of the list (flame-happy? Never?) It's not "flame-happy," but we've had our bad spells... People are talking about lifestyle issues, so ideologies sometimes clash. > Where do the bulk of subscribers reside (US, Canada, Uganda, or S America?) We have about 425 subscribers, mostly in the U.S. > Who owns the list and from where? It's owned and originated by Sharon Gordon, at the University of North Carolina at Greensboro. However, it's now *run* from UNC-Chapel Hill, since UNC-G's server couldn't handle the volume of mail. I handle list maintenance in terms of subscriptions, questions, etc. since I'm here at UNC-CH. > And whatever else you can tell me about it. You can get a copy of our info file by sending a message to: listserv@listserv.unc.edu The message should say: info maxlife Penny Ward crunchy@email.unc.edu From plantone@iquest.net Thu Mar 16 00:38:23 EST 1995 Article: 58349 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!dorite!news From: plantone@iquest.net (Stan) Subject: Re: indoor fluorescent lighting Message-ID: Sender: news@dorite.use.com (News Admin) Organization: IQuest Network Services References: <3jn480$ii9@taco.cc.ncsu.edu> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 13:36:45 GMT Lines: 12 Status: O X-Status: <3jvf8k$8kl@morrow.stanford.edu> Organization: IQuest Network Services X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.91.6 In article <3jvf8k$8kl@morrow.stanford.edu>, dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) says: >.... Stan says that the professional growers Kevin >talked to must have meant "horticultural cool whites" ... after re-reading my post... i find i said nothing of the kind. in fact, i was trying to imply the opposite, that the growers that Kevin talked about probably meant non-horticultural lamps. From plantone@iquest.net Thu Mar 16 00:38:25 EST 1995 Article: 58350 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!usc!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!dorite!news From: plantone@iquest.net (Stan) Subject: Re: indoor fluorescent lighting Message-ID: Sender: news@dorite.use.com (News Admin) Organization: IQuest Network Services References: <3jn480$ii9@taco.cc.ncsu.edu> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 13:59:38 GMT Lines: 35 Status: O X-Status: <3jvf8k$8kl@morrow.stanford.edu> <3k0ebt$oar@crl6.crl.com> Organization: IQuest Network Services X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.91.6 misrepresentation of what i am saying is nothing i have control over, but for the record: - i never said that colour corrected flour. lamps are *required* - i was not making my recommendations based on cost, and if cost is your number one concern, then don't even think about lighting designed specifically for horticulture - my objectives in gardening is getting maximum yield of the highest quality fruits and vegetables possible. in order to achieve this, *i* have found that using specialized lighting has produced better final yield... albiet, my techniques in all areas have improved, thus providing an overall improvement. - Lynn, i have found a one day difference in plant seedlings has equated to more that a 25% differnece in final harvest weights of some veggies at the end of the season. Lighting is only one factor (and a small one at that) that effects initial seedling growth. as mentioned in previous post, my main thing is indoor gardening (start to finish), and finishing plant height is a critical factor to me. when using just plain cool whites, i consistantly ended up with taller (not desireable) final plants even when the lamps were only 1/2 to 1 inch above the seedlings. - my goal is not to get people to switch to *expensive* grow lights. I like what *i* use (as much as others like what they use) for whatever reason, and i answer post referenced to my gardening experience. Stan From sjmoore@interlog.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:26 EST 1995 Article: 58351 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!interlog.com!sjmoore.interlog.com!user From: sjmoore@interlog.com (Steven Moore) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Is "Roundup" Safe Way To Kill A Lawn Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 09:12:46 -0500 Organization: Moore Partners Ltd. Lines: 55 Message-ID: References: <3jkhku$d5t@werner.cs.mtu.edu> <3jrho4$4l1@baja.pacificrim.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: sjmoore.interlog.com Status: O X-Status: In article <3jrho4$4l1@baja.pacificrim.net>, rbgreg@pacificrim.net (Bruce Gregory) wrote: > In article <3jkhku$d5t@werner.cs.mtu.edu>, jgtusciu@mtu.edu (John Tusciuk) says: > > > >Bill Dill (wdill@Primenet.com) wrote: > >: I got an estimate from a a landscaper for replacing my lawn. I was > >: surprised to learn that the major part of the job was killing and removing > >: the old lawn. He said that he would use a product called "Roundup". I > >: have 2 children so I'm concerned about the possible health problems I've > >: heard associated with using herbicides and pesticides. > > > >: Can anyone tell me anything about Roundup? Is there any truly safe way to > >: kill off a lawn? > > > >: Thanks for the info. > > > >I've never heard of Roundup causing any problems, but if you are > >worried about it, ask the landscaper for the chemical data sheets > >(there's some acronym for these, but I can't remember it). These list > >all of the possible hazards associated with use of a given chemical > >and employers (at least in Michigan) have to have these someplace > >accessible to any employees that may be exposed to the chemical, so > >I'm sure he's at least got a copy. > > > >John Tusciuk OK. I've been lurking on this thread for some time now and though I would wade in with another perspective. The active ingredient in Roundup is called glyphosate. The Environmental Protection Agency reports that it persists in the soil for 1-6 months, in water for 10-100 days. It has a possibility to cause cancer (only proven so far in lab animals), and is highly toxic to fish and aquatic invertebrates. The "inert" ingredients such as POEA are three times as toxic as glyphosate, but the manufacturer does not have to put this on the label because of a legal loophole. There are lots of problems with Roundup, too many to list here. Contact The Northwest Coalition for Alternatives to Pesticides, P.O. Box 1393, Eugene, Oregon 97440, Ph. (503) 344-5044 for complete information. Ask for their glyphosate information package. I would never use gluphosate where children or pets might walk in the next 6 months. You might consider killing existing turfgrass with a heavy mulch or black plastic. > >jgtusciu@cs.mtu.edu > From all the sources I have gathered Roundup is very safe, it breaks > down in the root structures in ten to fourteen days, can be used and > applied with minimal protection, rubber gloves. -- Cheers... Steven Moore - sjmoore@interlog.com From rcvaiden@prairienet.org Thu Mar 16 00:38:27 EST 1995 Article: 58352 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!prairienet.org!rcvaiden From: rcvaiden@prairienet.org (Robert C. Vaiden) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Milkweed--where to fi Date: 13 Mar 1995 14:36:36 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 38 Message-ID: <3k1l9k$e7@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: <19950312.79A67C8.B254@msbbs.com> Reply-To: rcvaiden@prairienet.org (Robert C. Vaiden) NNTP-Posting-Host: firefly.prairienet.org Status: O X-Status: Had to throw in my 2 cents on milkweed. Of course, before all the prairies here in Illinois were destroyed, the dominant plants were all long lived perennials, not short lived, aggressive plants (weeds!??) like common milkweed. Many other members of the family are long lived, beautiful flowers (actually, common milkweed is beautiful too!), and not at all "weed-like". So, I imagine, in the old days, the "common" milkweed wasn't common-but the others were. Humans have "selected"-by their activities- the plants they like the least! What's really funny is the way these plants are described in catalogs....you won't see the word "milkweed" !!! Instead, it will be "Orange Glory FLower (!)" (they don't even use the term "butterflyweed" much anymore!).....instead of Asclepias tuberosa. I also want to put in a good word for Asclepias incarnata (Swamp or Marsh Milkweed). It doesn't need a swamp (so it can be a good garden plant), it's a beautiful pink, and smells absolutely wonderful! It should be more appreaciated! Bob Vaiden In a previous article, revans@msbbs.com (Ruth Evans) says: >>>steven@rain.org () wrote: >>>> >>>> I would like to know where Milkweed can be obtained? I work at a ga >>>> center and none of my plant material suppliers have it. Can someone >>>> me the botanical name? I can't find it in the most basic garden boo >>>> Sunset is useless, much to my surprise. Thanks in advance. >>>> > >Milkweed is kind of a generic name for plants that produce a "milk." >There are many different kinds. > From ssanders@umich.edu Thu Mar 16 00:38:28 EST 1995 Article: 58353 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich.edu!usenet From: Susan Sanders Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Aug/Sept PERENNIALS Date: 13 Mar 1995 14:46:12 GMT Organization: The University of Michigan Lines: 16 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k1lrk$rt8@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> References: <3jo6ob$6lv@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.211.54.249 X-Newsreader: Nuntius Version 1.2 X-XXDate: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 14:48:10 GMT Status: O X-Status: In article <3jo6ob$6lv@newsbf02.news.aol.com> BUKTOP, buktop@aol.com writes: >I am looking for some perennials that would do well in one half day >afternoon sun, would be about three feet tall and red or bright pink in >color that would do well in Illinois in clay soil and bloom for a good >part of Aug. and Sept. I have thought of Firefly Phlox or perhaps some Japanese anemone meets all of your criteria and is an absolutely carefree plant. There are varieties in a number of shades of pink. It would like a little soil improvement but would probably do OK even without it. I have one (actually this one is the closely-related Anemone vitifolia) in a particularly favorable spot that I planted there about 6 years ago is now about 4' wide, that had about 500 flowers on it last year (I'm serious). Truly gorgeous. It's especially nice to have this form of flower (that is, not a composite, i.e. chrysanthemum) at this time of year. -Sue Sanders From tigibson@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:29 EST 1995 Article: 58354 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What's BLOOMIN' in your part of the land? Date: 13 Mar 1995 09:40:24 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 6 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k1lgo$789@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: i found a lone johnny jump up (viola) blooming by my patio yesterday. i had to move the snow and ice off to really see it. my heart was lifted! then i discovered that my yellow crocus are getting ready to open. it really is march! tigibson From tigibson@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:30 EST 1995 Article: 58355 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: hollyhock eaters Date: 13 Mar 1995 09:41:54 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 7 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k1lji$78h@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: i had beautiful pink hollyhock blooms last year. and then something ate my leaves, leaving only the veins! i'm an organic gardener and i need suggestions for how to deal with this year. any ideas? tigibson From coltremb@rsvs.ulaval.ca Thu Mar 16 00:38:31 EST 1995 Article: 58356 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!newsflash.concordia.ca!news.mcgill.ca!clouso.crim.ca!athena.ulaval.ca!prokaryota.rsvs.ulaval.ca!user From: coltremb@rsvs.ulaval.ca (Colette Tremblay) Subject: Re: Love lies bleeding-Amaranthus Message-ID: Sender: news@athena.ulaval.ca Nntp-Posting-Host: prokaryota.rsvs.ulaval.ca Organization: Universite Laval References: <13MAR95.08410221.0046@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 05:46:27 GMT Lines: 25 Status: O X-Status: I planted L-L-B in my front yard last year (6 week-old seedlings, full sun). It grew like crazy with almost no care: a nearby small crabapple tree that was planted the same spring got to be almost hidden! It grew to mre than five feet and by the end of the sumer the long tassels made quite a showpiece. There is a bus stop by my house, and all the time people kept asking what was this plant. So my only advice is: if you want to grow it in containers, use big ones. Good luck! In article (Dans l'article) <13MAR95.08410221.0046@UNBVM1.CSD.UNB.CA>, "D. Savoie" wrote (écrivait) : > One book I have mentions that Love lies bleeding looks good in a > container with the tassles hanging down (I thought about a grain > barrel), but none of the catalogues I have mention it being good > for containers, and so I was wondering what others had done with > theirs. Thanks for your assistance, > D. Savoie -- Colette Tremblay Universite Laval Quebec QC Canada Zone 4b From ab860@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Thu Mar 16 00:38:32 EST 1995 Article: 58357 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ab860 From: ab860@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (David L. Martin) Subject: Re: Compost piles Message-ID: Sender: ab860@freenet3.carleton.ca (David L. Martin) Reply-To: ab860@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (David L. Martin) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <3jtht3$c0s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jtmes$ags@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 14:38:34 GMT Lines: 19 Status: O X-Status: In a previous posting, Jeff Stier (jstier@yu1.yu.edu) writes: > My compost pile cooled off over the winter...plenty of > carbon material.......but now what. I wouldn't worry about it. Whatever was working before will recommence naturally. > You mentioned yeast- how does that help? Because its alive? Partly, but using already composted material is the best. > I hear hops are good.... > What else can I use? Produce/salad clippings? Almost anything organic from vegetable matter (i.e. NOT MEAT). Produce, salad clippings, potatoe peels, tea, newspapers . . . From ab860@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Thu Mar 16 00:38:34 EST 1995 Article: 58358 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ab860 From: ab860@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (David L. Martin) Subject: Re: Heat & Light for Seeds Message-ID: Sender: ab860@freenet3.carleton.ca (David L. Martin) Reply-To: ab860@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (David L. Martin) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <3k1gp9$d1b@shore.shore.net> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 14:43:16 GMT Lines: 13 Status: O X-Status: In a previous posting, Joann M. Hnat (jmh@shore.net) writes: > TIGIBSON (tigibson@aol.com) wrote: > : do seedlings have to have artificial light? i'd like to get by with a > : southern exposure. input please. > > No artificial light needed -- I have all sorts of seedlings growing in my > south-facing windows. Uh, depends on where you are; we who live in the "great white north" (well, actually not so great) need the artificial light, for a while at least. Also, temperatures by southern windows might be extremely variable (again, the further north you get . . .) From jquade@infi.net Thu Mar 16 00:38:35 EST 1995 Article: 58359 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.infi.net!usenet From: jquade@infi.net (Jeff Quade) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: How to deal with Ryegrass in garden area Date: 13 Mar 1995 15:09:09 GMT Organization: InfiNet Lines: 10 Message-ID: <3k1n6l$c20@lucy.infi.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: h-gray.richmond.infi.net X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+ Status: O X-Status: I tilled up my vegetable garden last fall and sowed ryegrass as a winter cover. Now I'm having a time hoeing through the root mats to put in my early stuff. Anyone else use rye as a cover like this? I never thought it would get so well established over a few months; I'm afraid I'll be fighting it all summer even after I till again. Anyone got suggestions? I'm in Richmond, Va. ================ Jeff Quade == jquade@richmond.infi.net =============== From jquade@infi.net Thu Mar 16 00:38:36 EST 1995 Article: 58360 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.infi.net!usenet From: jquade@infi.net (Jeff Quade) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Paw Paw tree??? Date: 13 Mar 1995 15:11:26 GMT Organization: InfiNet Lines: 11 Message-ID: <3k1nau$c20@lucy.infi.net> References: <3jverm$phj@deep.rsoft.bc.ca> <3k1fer$pr9@pipe4.pipeline.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: h-gray.richmond.infi.net X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+ Status: O X-Status: In article <3k1fer$pr9@pipe4.pipeline.com>, jbachman@pipeline.com (John Bachman) says: > >Paw paws grew wild in West Virginia where I grew up. I describe the fruit >as a cross between a banana and a custard cream pie. It is softer and >sweeter than a banana. > I'm in Richmond, Va.. My wife and I planted pawpaw seeds last fall, hoping for a pawpaw "crop" in a few years. I've heard about a fungus that must be in the soil for the pawpaws to bear fruit - that the plant will gros fine but never bear unless this symbiotic fungus is present. Anyone know about this?? From glenn@eri.erinet.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:38 EST 1995 Article: 58361 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!nntp.crl.com!decwrl!pagesat.net!news.erinet.com!eri.erinet.com!not-for-mail From: glenn@eri.erinet.com (Michael Glenn) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Clemantis Date: 13 Mar 1995 01:37:32 -0500 Organization: EriNet Online 513 436-9915 Lines: 9 Message-ID: <3k0p7c$3eh@eri.erinet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: eri.erinet.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: I have Jackmani, Henryi, Nelly Moser that I planted last year. If I remember correctly, some Clemantis you cut all the way back this time of year, while other you only give a light haircut. Could someone tell me where thies fit into the pruning regiment. Thank you. glenn@erinet.com From hageja00@hg.uleth.ca Thu Mar 16 00:38:39 EST 1995 Article: 58362 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news.bc.net!unixg.ubc.ca!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news.ucalgary.ca!holly.cc.uleth.ca!news From: hageja00@hg.uleth.ca (KRAMER) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Good Landscape Design Software? Date: 13 Mar 1995 15:29:06 GMT Organization: University of Lethbridge Lines: 11 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k1oc2$bqs@holly.cc.uleth.ca> References: <3jtqvv$md0@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> Reply-To: hageja00@hg.uleth.ca NNTP-Posting-Host: mg.uleth.ca Status: O X-Status: Expert Landscape Design for Windows by Expert Software, Inc. is a pretty good program if not a little simple. Comes complete with libraries of icons and symbols for your overhead or straight away view. In article <3jtqvv$md0@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>, FZVC12A@prodigy.com (Celeste Wegner) writes: >Any response to your landscape design software question--any >recommendations for a good package? >- > CELESTE WEGNER FZVC12A@prodigy.com > > From hageja00@hg.uleth.ca Thu Mar 16 00:38:40 EST 1995 Article: 58363 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!news.bc.net!unixg.ubc.ca!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!news.ucalgary.ca!holly.cc.uleth.ca!news From: hageja00@hg.uleth.ca (KRAMER) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Alberta gardens Date: 13 Mar 1995 15:32:49 GMT Organization: University of Lethbridge Lines: 35 Message-ID: <3k1oj1$bqs@holly.cc.uleth.ca> References: <3ja2va$qlu@news.sas.ab.ca>,<3jt6g6$gi4@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net> Reply-To: hageja00@hg.uleth.ca NNTP-Posting-Host: mg.uleth.ca Status: O X-Status: >In <3ja2va$qlu@news.sas.ab.ca>, tedarmst@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca () writes: >>I have retired and am looking to upgrade my garden this year. We have a >>short hot growing season here in Alberta. Are there any gardeners in >>similar hot/cold zones where I could ask a question and receive advice. I am >>quite a novice apart from cutting grass and planting the occasional bedding >>plant. >>Perhaps there are books the more experienced gardener could >>recommend. Hope you can help me...I feel spring in the air already >>despite the fact the temperature this morning is minus 20 degrees Centigrade! >> >>Hi Ted! There are a series of books put out about gardening in the Prairies here >in Alberta that are excellent. The titles include "Perennials for the Prairies", >"Annuals for the Prairies" and "Woody Ornamentals for the Prairies". You can >pick these up at most book stores. In addition, the U of A puts out a home >gardening course which includes a text book also available at most bookstores. >It also has a great deal of useful info ranging from turf to veggies to fruit trees, >etc. > >There used to be a help line anyone in Alta could call at the Alberta Horticultural >Centre (Alberta Agriculture), but funding cuts saw its demise. However, there >are a number of good souls there that would likely help, as there are as the >Muttart Conservatory in Edmonton, etc. > >If I can be of help, please feel free to email me. I am not a horticulturalist but I >am a Master Gardener and have lots of books... > >Any other Alta gardeners out there waiting with baited breath for spring???? > >Dawn Campbell, St. Albert, AB, Canada I'm not a master gardener. Probably more of a farmer than anything else, but I am the field manager for our community garden project and sustainable living centre here in Lethbridge, Alberta! From bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Thu Mar 16 00:38:41 EST 1995 Article: 58364 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!bs812 From: bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Janet Malowany) Subject: Re: Yucchhh! Earwigs Message-ID: Sender: bs812@freenet2.carleton.ca (Janet Malowany) Reply-To: bs812@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Janet Malowany) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet References: <3k0svi$mv@pacific.pacific.net> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 15:26:37 GMT Lines: 19 Status: O X-Status: In a previous posting, Liz Evangelatos (liz@pacific.net) writes: > Any advice out their on how to get rid of earwigs? I never see them, but > their like a plague eating through my yard.... > Since you can't see them, I would suggest crumpling up pieces of newspaper and put them in your garden. The earwigs should be attracted the this and walk inside the paper which is like a maze. They should get lost inside. Every day, you should check the paper, open it up and shake off the earwigs and send them in a container full of soapy water, This method works for me. :) Janet -- "Horse, thou art truly a creature without equal, for thou fliest without wings and conquerest without sword." -The Koran From runderwo@plains.NoDak.edu Thu Mar 16 00:38:43 EST 1995 Article: 58365 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!ns1.nodak.edu!plains!runderwo From: runderwo@plains.NoDak.edu (Robert Underwood) Subject: Re: What's BLOOMIN' in your part of the land? Sender: usenet@ns1.nodak.edu (Usenet login) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 01:01:36 GMT References: <3jgiif$8oj@kaleka.seanet.com> <3jhugn$1vu@newsbf02.news.aol.com>,<1995Mar7.105754.4500@driftwood.cray.com> <1995Mar8.201425.12223@mecn.mass.edu> <3jqk3p$pg7@tadpole.fc.hp.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: plains.nodak.edu Organization: North Dakota Higher Education Computing Network X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Lines: 4 Status: O X-Status: The blooming snowmobiles just quit yesterday. I did see one tulip with a lot of guts sticking its leaves through the mud today. Probable 3 weeks till a hint of spring in Turtle Mts. but then it gets beautiful. Zone 2 in the hills. From voorlichter@mi.rulimburg.nl Thu Mar 16 00:38:44 EST 1995 Article: 58366 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!sun4nl!news.nic.surfnet.nl!rlmix1.rulimburg.nl!mi0027.rulimburg.nl!voorlichter From: voorlichter@mi.rulimburg.nl (Voorlichter WP medische informatica) Subject: Growing mimosa Message-ID: Lines: 17 Sender: news@rlmix1.rulimburg.nl (USENET News System) Organization: University of Limburg, Maastricht Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 15:22:10 GMT Status: O X-Status: Hello, Last sunday I saw at the local gardencenter mimosa, it was blooming very nicely. I know this plant of hollidays in the south of France and Spain and was asking myself if it is possible to keep this plant in the north in a much colder climat like The Netherlands, Germany or Belgium (I live near the crossingpoint of these countries in Maastricht, The Netherlands) because it is really beautiful. I think you have keep it at a cool place in winter but still how is growing? If somebody keeps them in a colder climat has any information (also about its origin, etc.), I am very curious. Other subtropic plants like oleander, hibiscus do grow here. Thanks in advance, Danielle From birdmommy@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:45 EST 1995 Article: 58367 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: birdmommy@aol.com (Birdmommy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: indoor fluorescent lighting Date: 13 Mar 1995 10:57:40 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 8 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k1q1k$7sv@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: birdmommy@aol.com (Birdmommy) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: the vitalite might have set you back a bit for the turtle, but look at the bright side, (grin, no pun) after you can't use it for the turtle any more (I think they recommend replacing them yearly, the light not the turtle) you can use it for your plants! I'm on year three with my 40" ones and my plants just LOVE them! molli Denver zone 5 From birdmommy@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:46 EST 1995 Article: 58368 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: birdmommy@aol.com (Birdmommy) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: "Potting" plants Date: 13 Mar 1995 10:57:45 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 9 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k1q1p$7t1@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: birdmommy@aol.com (Birdmommy) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Ok, stupid question time, my 7 year old asked me and *I* don't know the answer! (Gee, Mom really DOESN'T know everything) can you (has anyone) ever grown tomatoes, peppers etc. INSIDE in containers in the winter? Can it be done? Will it work? Can we have fresh Tomatoes and Peppers all winter? molli Denver zone 5 From n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:38:47 EST 1995 Article: 58369 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!reuter.cse.ogi.edu!henson!news From: n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu (Stephanie Feeney) Subject: herb gardening in the Pacific Northwest Message-ID: <1995Mar13.154819.2879@henson.cc.wwu.edu> To: twarner@nmo.gtegsc.com Sender: news@henson.cc.wwu.edu (USENET-WWU) Organization: Western Washington University X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #3 Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 15:48:19 GMT Lines: 22 Status: O X-Status: Greetings from one who loves to garden with herbs in this area (actually in Bellingham.) I might suggest a very pleasant way to decide what you'd like to grow by visiting some of this regions fabulous herb nurseries, as their display gardens will give you design ideas and you can see what varieties of various plants do well here. One place that's a real pioneer in growing herbs here is The Herbfarm in Fall City (also a smaller store on Queen Anne in Seattle). If you have access to a FAX machine they offer a unique service: FastFAX. Dial (206) 222-7004 and follow their directions. If you enter 8888 you will receive a full index of their offerings: which can be as diverse as a map to get to the nursery, tips on growing various herbs, recipes from their nationally famous restaurant ... Other places you might want to explore are: Herban Renewal Herb Garden and Nursery, 10437 19th Ave. SW, Seattle tel. (206) 243-8821; Fairlight Gardens in Auburn, Fairie Herb Gardens in Olympia, Sassafras Farm on Whidbey Island, Silver Bay Herb Farm near Bremerton .. there are lots more. Also call The Herb Cottage in Redmond (206) 558-0857 or any of the nurseries I have mentioned--they all have terrific classes on growing, cooking with and using herbs. If you have more specific questions perhaps I could help. Cheers, Stephanie Feeney "The Northwest Gardeners' Resource Directory" n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu From pattibelle@delphi.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:48 EST 1995 Article: 58370 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: PATTIBELLE Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sun Loving annuals Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 23:50:44 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 2 Message-ID: <5g062qc.pattibelle@delphi.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com X-To: W. Scott Laughinghouse Status: O X-Status: Another good sun annual is cosmos. From pattibelle@delphi.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:49 EST 1995 Article: 58371 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: PATTIBELLE Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: california storm Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 23:53:49 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 9 Message-ID: <5g87umV.pattibelle@delphi.com> References: <3jr8uv$94a@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com X-To: elaine shanahan Status: O X-Status: Storm damage in downtown Napa was not as great as in January, but the river was higher. Reason: the creeks had been cleared of their brush and debris by the January flood. I've a stash of plants just waiting for some nicer weather. Bought a 15 gal. prunus Vesuvious today for $32.90, plus some trellises for star jasmine. Is the sun ever going to shine again on sunny CA? Pat in Napa, CA From pattibelle@delphi.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:50 EST 1995 Article: 58372 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: PATTIBELLE Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Pruning Dwarf Conifers Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 23:58:20 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 7 Message-ID: <5A14uOU.pattibelle@delphi.com> References: <3jr95v$6bj@crl3.crl.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com X-To: Jim Huber Status: O X-Status: Jan, don't know about your spruces and cedrus, but one year I had HAD it with a Pinus Mugho Mugho that wasn't behaving like a mugho, so I really cut it back. At that point I didn't care if it lived or died. Well, it has branched out into a lovely Pinus Mugho Mugho. Sorry I can't offer you wise advice about your pruning. Pat in Napa, CA From raiar@vulcan.inlink.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:52 EST 1995 Article: 58373 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.starnet.net!wupost!thor.inlink.com!vulcan.inlink.com!raiar From: raiar@vulcan.inlink.com (Gary V. Deutschmann Sr.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Plants from vegetable seeds?? Date: 13 Mar 1995 00:36:07 GMT Organization: inlink Lines: 8 Message-ID: <3k041n$6th@thor.inlink.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: vulcan.inlink.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Just try, most of the time you can. Some hybrids are crosses between varieties and you will end up with something totally different. Or in some cases, the seeds are sterile. Never hurts to give it a shot though. Gary From cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk Thu Mar 16 00:38:53 EST 1995 Article: 58374 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: Cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk (Gary Cooper) Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!pipex!peernews.demon.co.uk!wordshop.demon.co.uk!Cooper Subject: Re: Who is Martha??????? References: <7786-186557701@mcube.com> Organization: Wordshop Reply-To: cooper@wordshop.demon.co.uk X-Newsreader: Demon Internet Simple News v1.27 Lines: 14 X-Posting-Host: wordshop.demon.co.uk Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 13:02:39 +0000 Message-ID: <795099759snz@wordshop.demon.co.uk> Sender: usenet@demon.co.uk Status: O X-Status: In article <7786-186557701@mcube.com> rshiell@mcube.com writes: > Martha Stewart is a wealthy woman who produces magazines, books, and > videos devoted to gardening and entertaining in outlandish, quaint, > and/or picturesque ways, involving huge amounts of time and labor (by > her corps of servants). She appears never to break a sweat or get > dirty. Seems sort of like a cross between Tinkerbell and Patton. Errr, was Patton the one with the wand and the tutu? I get confused....;-) -- Gary Cooper From kbenarc1@cc.swarthmore.edu Thu Mar 16 00:38:54 EST 1995 Article: 58375 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!NewsWatcher!user From: kbenarc1@cc.swarthmore.edu (Kris Benarcik) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Crab Grass -- how to grow?? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 13 Mar 1995 16:18:10 GMT Organization: Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College Lines: 6 Message-ID: References: <3k06ms$sfa@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 130.58.39.51 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Status: O X-Status: In article <3k06ms$sfa@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, nadiai@aol.com (NadiaI) wrote: > I would like to grow crab grass for a high traffic/dog area. Any ideas > how > I could go about this? From liz@pacific.net Thu Mar 16 00:38:56 EST 1995 Article: 58376 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!agate!overload.lbl.gov!emf.emf.net!hilbert.dnai.com!nbn!miwok!pacific.net!usenet From: Liz Evangelatos Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Yucchhh! Earwigs Date: 13 Mar 1995 07:41:37 GMT Organization: Pacific Internet Lines: 3 Message-ID: <3k0svi$mv@pacific.pacific.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ts-23.pacific.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Status: O X-Status: Any advice out their on how to get rid of earwigs? I never see them, but their like a plague eating through my yard.... From lssac@luxor.latrobe.edu.au Thu Mar 16 00:38:58 EST 1995 Article: 58377 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!lugb!luxor.latrobe.edu.au!lssac From: lssac@luxor.latrobe.edu.au (Maryanne Todd) Subject: Herbs that grow in shade Message-ID: <1995Mar13.013914.27171@lugb.latrobe.edu.au> Sender: Maryanne (lssac@luxor.latrobe.edu.au) Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 01:39:14 GMT Organization: La Trobe University Lines: 22 Status: O X-Status: We are the brand new owners of a house with a garden - absolute bliss after a flat with a balcony! In the back garden is this marvellous piece of ground about 4 1/2 metres diameter sorrounded by bluestone - a rim and wall, meaning the entire region is about 15cm sunken. This would make a perfect circular herb garden. I've had my eye on it for this ever since we first saw the place. Unfortunately, I've discovered it actually gets very little direct sunlight each day - about 1 hour direct, about 5 hours filtered (through the leaves of a silky oak) and the rest of the time rather dense shade. I'm not getting rid of the silky oak - a beautiful tree! - so, the question is - do any herbs grow well in shade, and if so, which ones! A list of herbs that are shade lovers or shade tolerant would be greatly appreciated. Any herb list would be appreciated, and if it isn't suited to our area I can find out. I'm in Melbourne, Australia, so please don't ask me for my zone, we don't have any! Much thanks Maryanne (lssac@luxor.latrobe.edu.au) . From duane@magma.zk3.dec.com Thu Mar 16 00:38:59 EST 1995 Article: 58378 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!caen!crl.dec.com!crl.dec.com!lead.zk3.dec.com!magma.zk3.dec.com!duane From: duane@magma.zk3.dec.com (Andrew Duane USG/PE) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: last frost date for Boston? Date: 13 Mar 1995 16:07:20 GMT Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation Lines: 25 Message-ID: <3k1qjo$bu7@lead.zk3.dec.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: magma.zk3.dec.com Status: O X-Status: In article gaumond@mitre.org (Eric Gaumond) writes: >In article , shyguy@bbs.gatecom.com >(Scott shy) wrote: > >> According to an Ortho reference book I have, the last frost date for >> Boston is April 5th and the first one in the fall is November 8th. >> > This sounds way too early to me. I live in NH, just 40 miles north of >Boston, and our last frost date is about May 22. I rarely set out >tomatoes and peppers before Memorial Day. I live in Derry, NH, also about 40 miles north of Boston. My LFD is about May 1, not May 22. April 5 sounds pretty good for Boston; remember that the coast effect mellows their temperatures a lot. This spring is also shaping up to be warm.... -- Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7) duane@zk3.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation (603)-881-1294 110 Spit Brook Road http://www.zk3.dec.com/~duane M/S ZKO3-3/U14 Nashua, NH 03062-2698 Only my cat shares my opinions, and her catnip wintered over. From jsliney@delphi.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:01 EST 1995 Article: 58379 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: jsliney@delphi.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Natural repellants for cats Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 03:00:21 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 12 Message-ID: References: <3jprfm$eb4@archive.ny.jpmorgan.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1f.delphi.com X-To: Jeanne Sweeney Status: O X-Status: HI Jeanne, I had a problem with a cat who loved to jump our 6 foot stockade fence just to go to the bathroom in my flower garden, as much as I hated it I didn't want to harm the cat then someone told me about chili pepper, just sprinkle it where you don't want the cat it doesn't hurt them just irrates thier nose like pepper does to ours. Pu it down then reapply it every week unless it rains then reapply it right after the rain. It only took a month for the cat to stop coming in my yard and he hasn't been back since. Jackie From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:02 EST 1995 Article: 58380 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Guinea Pig poo as fertilizer? Date: 13 Mar 1995 16:29:08 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 16 Message-ID: <3k1rsk$m4u@post.its.mcw.edu> References: <3k0lbq$gro@potogold.rmii.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: Steve Zerbe wrote: > > Someone earlier was discussing rabbit manure as compost. My > situation is that we have guinea pigs (5) that I would like to > move outdoors on warm days in my yard. > It should be OK. You might want to rake around any accumulated piles of droppings or even give it a light sprinkling to dilute any urine (although I don't really think this would be necessary). Some years ago I was able to get used animal bedding for tilling into my garden. It was a corncob base mixed, of course, with animal feces (mouse, rat, guinea pig and rabbit) and urine. It gave me no problem. Hope this helps. Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu From rshiell@mcube.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:03 EST 1995 Article: 58381 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!hookup!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcomsv!uucp3.netcom.com!mcube.com!rshiell Subject: Re: DAYLILIES.. Newsgroups: rec.gardens From: rshiell@mcube.com Date: Sun, 12 Mar 95 23:57:08 EST Message-ID: <7788-16604803@mcube.com> Organization: Desert Jewel On-Line Mall Lines: 40 Status: O X-Status: In response to: IB>I don't know much about them, but would like to learn. Daylilies are amazingly adaptable perennials. They grow from zone 10 (Southern California) to zone 4 (parts of Maine and Minnesota), and flourish in nearly any soil or light conditions, except deep shade. They store water in fleshy, thick roots, and can withstand considerable drought, but also accept wet streamside environments. Specialty nurseries introduce new hybrids constantly. Several of these nurseries advertise in garden magazines. Most of the best new daylily cultivars are tetraploid (doubled genes), and some are triploid (an extra chromosome). A few new types are compact (about a foot tall), and several re-bloom. Re-blooming is desirable, as each individual flower lasts about a day (sic), and a crop of infloresences (flower stalks) only lasts about three or four weeks in most cases. Some cultivars flower earlier than others, and many gardeners perfer to mix several varieties in a single planting (as one fades, another begins). Daylilies range from off-white to deep red, and many are two-toned, with the throat one color and the outer surface another, darker color. Personally, I love the green + pink and yellow + red combinations. One species of daylily, Hemerocallis fulva, has become an escaped weed in parts of the midwest. Few other species re-seed much, and many hybrids appear to be sterile. Richard Shiell, ASLA Bakersfield, CA RShiell@mcube.com --- ţ SLMR 2.1a ţ Berlandiera lyrata forever! -- Mainframes, Minis & Micros | Running MajorBBS and Internet! 5630 District Blvd. #114 | Desert Jewel BBS & OnLine Mall Bakersfield, CA 93313 | Discounted Hardware & Software LandLine == 800-949-1959 | BBS == 805-397-2063 14.4 n-8-1 From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:04 EST 1995 Article: 58382 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Holly and pollination Date: 13 Mar 1995 16:36:26 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 24 Message-ID: <3k1saa$m4u@post.its.mcw.edu> References: <3juqr4$afs@news.bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: sfo@bu.edu (Samme Orwig) wrote: > > > When planting different varieties > of ilex, must one buy the male > pollinator to match each type > of female shrub or tree? > > Thanks. > In most cases, the answer is yes. First, I don't know the degree to which different species of Ilex cross pollinate. Unless you know specifically that they do, assume that they don't. Second, even within a species, such as Ilex verticellata, there are early bloomers and late bloomers, so you must make sure that you have the female and male of the same type otherwise you'll one will be blooming and the other "won't be ready yet" or it will already have done its thing - a frustrating situation for any sexually reproducing species! Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu "Existing order thrives upon ignoranceand lies. Objective truth and individual reason are feared above all." From werner.stern@factory.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:06 EST 1995 Article: 58383 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!caen!crl.dec.com!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!news.kei.com!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!psinntp!factory!werner.stern From: werner.stern@factory.com (Werner Stern) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: digging up grass-bound pl Message-ID: <16645.2904.uupcb@factory.com> Date: 12 Mar 95 22:40:00 GMT Distribution: world Organization: Invention Factory's BBS - New York NY - 212-274-8110 Reply-To: werner.stern@factory.com (Werner Stern) Lines: 33 Status: O X-Status: TO: kyle@madrona.engr.washington.edu K>.@N FROM :kyle@madrona.engr.washington.edu K>.@N MSGID : K>N Path: K>uupsi!psinntp!cmcl2!panix!bloom- beacon.mit.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexa K>s.edu!news.sprintlink.ne From: kyle@madrona.engr.washington.edu K>Newsgroups: rec.gardens K>Subject: digging up grass-bound plants K>Date: Sun, 26 Feb 1995 17:36:08 K>Message-ID: K>I have a clematis growing on a fence. Grass has moved in completely K>around the base of the plant, which is not all that old (maybe 5 K>years). Is it wise to dig it up so I can make a little bed for it, K>or should I just leave it alone? If I dig, how do I do so without K>damaging the roots? Any other options? Thanks much! One of the most important things about growing clematis is to keep the roots cool, so, having another plant growing over the root area is perfect. I grow my plants intermixed with shrubs and they grow through them. When you start a clematis all the manuals advise to cover the root area with stone to keep the sun off. You're doing fine. Regards Werner Internet Addr: werner.stern@factory.com From savilon@xensei.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:07 EST 1995 Article: 58384 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!Germany.EU.net!wizard.pn.com!news.xensei.com!usenet From: the Savilonis residence Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Need Info: GROWING GIANT PUMPKINS Date: 13 Mar 1995 16:36:48 GMT Organization: The Xensei Corporation Lines: 8 Message-ID: <3k1sb0$hij@xensei3.xensei.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: savilon.xensei.com Status: O X-Status: Live in the North East - Cape Cod, Mass. area. Have been growing the "biggies" for many years but never able to obtain more than a 250lb. Any tips help etc. Ive used the manuare tea, snip the blossoms and leave on fruit to a vine. I usually set outdoors about april 15. Thanks From reedc@iac.net Thu Mar 16 00:39:08 EST 1995 Article: 58385 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.charm.net!sun.cais.com!news.iac.net!ip043167.iac.net!user From: reedc@iac.net (Daniela Sciaky) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Bulbs and moving Date: 13 Mar 1995 02:36:12 GMT Organization: internet access cincinnati Lines: 6 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: ip043167.iac.net Status: O X-Status: I'm moving in July to Albany, NY environs and I have just dug up some mammouth Asiatic lily bulbs (here in Cincinnati, OH). Is it possible to preserve the bulbs for transport or should I just return them to the garden? How are these bulbs split? Daniela Sciaky From jk1n+@andrew.cmu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:09 EST 1995 Article: 58386 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.tc.cornell.edu!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!cornell!rochester!casaba.srv.cs.cmu.edu!bb3.andrew.cmu.edu!andrew.cmu.edu!jk1n+ From: James Michael Kocher Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want invasive plants Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 12:39:40 -0500 Organization: Robotics Institute, Carnegie Mellon, Pittsburgh, PA Lines: 4 Message-ID: References: <3jkgsm$hqv@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jlpku$rcr@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: po7.andrew.cmu.edu In-Reply-To: <3jlpku$rcr@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Status: O X-Status: Let Feverfew go to seed and it will be everywhere in a few years. I noticed that lemonbalm pops up in all my beds too. -Jim, Pittsburgh PA From markford@saturn.caps.maine.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:10 EST 1995 Article: 58387 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!noc.near.net!saturn.caps.maine.edu!saturn.caps.maine.edu!not-for-mail From: markford@saturn.caps.maine.edu (Mark H. Ford) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Where to get trees to plant? Date: 13 Mar 1995 13:09:26 -0500 Organization: University of Maine System Lines: 13 Message-ID: <3k21om$10q0@saturn.caps.maine.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: saturn.caps.maine.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: My wife and I recently bought a farm. One of the pastures is too hilly and too rocky to make mowing it a reasonable chore. It does seem to be an ideal location for trees. Where can I buy "Christmas tree" seedlings? -mark markford@saturn.caps.maine.edu Moonrise Farm RR1-Box 2810 Norway, Maine 04268 From cddunn@monk.austin.cc.tx.us Thu Mar 16 00:39:12 EST 1995 Article: 58388 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!uwm.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news.tamu.edu!monk.austin.cc.tx.us!monk.austin.cc.tx.us!not-for-mail From: cddunn@monk.austin.cc.tx.us (charles dunn) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Flaming Compost! Date: 8 Mar 1995 18:37:06 -0600 Organization: Austin Community College Lines: 57 Message-ID: <3jliji$pgg@monk.austin.cc.tx.us> References: <7770-313778003@mcube.com> <19950301163808.Gordon.Depew@gdepew.AtlantaGA.NCR.COM> X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: You city slickers would be dangerous on a farm!! Every farmer knows that putting up hay green is a good way to burn down the barn! Just sign me - Country Boy Gordon Depew (Gordon.Depew@AtlantaGA.NCR.COM) wrote: : In Article <7770-313778003@mcube.com> "rshiell@mcube.com" says: : > : > I'm with you, Marc. Humans don't spontaneously combust, and neither do : > bacteria. Maybe JohnK mistook steam for smoke rising from those grass : > clippings. : > : > : > IA>In a previous posting, JohnnK (johnnk@aol.com) writes: : > IA>> Fresh grass clippings, if piled higher than a few inches, can generate : > IA>> enough heat to start smoldering. Be particularly careful with them. : > : > IA>I'm intrigued by these reports of compost heaps igniting. It : > IA>does not make sense that the composting action would be the cause. : > : > IA>The bacteria involved in the process cannot withstand those : > IA>temperatures; so the heat generated by these same bacteria must : > IA>be self-regulated, no? : > : > IA>Would it not be more probable that methane gas, ignited by some : > IA>other trigger such as static discharge, be the cause? : > IA>Marc : > : > Richard Shiell, ASLA Bakersfield, CA RShiell@mcube.com : > --- : > ţ SLMR 2.1a ţ f16 and be there four times as long. : > : > -- : > Mainframes, Minis & Micros | Desert Jewel BBS & Online Mall : > 5630 District Blvd. #114 | Telnet to 204.212.36.4 : > Bakersfield, CA 93313 | FTP to 204.212.36.4 : > LandLine == 800-949-1959 | WWW to http:\\www@204.212.36.4 : > : : Bales of hay are stacked in barns with the stems running like this : : ||||||||||| : ||||||||||| : ||||||||||| : ||||||||||| : : rather than like this : __________ : __________ : __________ : __________ : : because if you stack them like this ^, your barn might burn down. : : Has to do with water draining out of the stems. : : t'sa fact : : Gordon Depew : From sledford@tpoint.net Thu Mar 16 00:39:13 EST 1995 Article: 58389 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!tpoint!NewsWatcher!user From: sledford@tpoint.net (Stephen Cullar-Ledford) Subject: Organic Pest Control? Message-ID: Sender: news@tpoint.net Organization: Texas Medical Liability Trust Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 23:34:11 GMT Lines: 6 Status: O X-Status: We are a Texas Certified Organic greenhouse and are trying to rid ourselves of spider mites, crickets, moths and fire ants. We have tried beneficials with little success. Does anyone know of something that would do the job, be Texas Certified Organic, and be cost-effective? Does anyone know of organic gardening/ farming resources? Any info would be wonderful. From Jim.Parra@neighbor.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:14 EST 1995 Article: 58390 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!tpoint!neighbor.com From: Jim.Parra@neighbor.com Subject: RE:Organic Pest Control? Message-ID: <17.47961059.Austin.Family.Net@neighbor.com> Sender: news@tpoint.net Organization: Turning Point Information Services References: Date: Sat, 11 Mar 1995 13:28:23 GMT Lines: 17 Status: O X-Status: > We are a Texas Certified Organic greenhouse and are trying to rid > ourselves of spider mites, crickets, moths and fire ants. We have tried > beneficials with little success. Does anyone know of something that > would do the job, be Texas Certified Organic, and be cost-effective? > Does anyone know of organic gardening/ farming resources? Any info would > be wonderful. Stephen one thing you can do is go the the Organic Gardeners meeting at Zilker Botanical Gardens. The next meeting is Mon night at 7:30pm the 13th of March. They have many knowledgeable peope there in all aspect of organic growing. I notice you email address is here in Austin, TX =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- The Green Sysop @-->-->- Remember green side up! jim.parra@neighbor.com >-->-->-->-->-->-->-The Neighborhood BBS 512-441-0485>->->->->->->->->->->-> From welshg@rl.af.mil Thu Mar 16 00:39:16 EST 1995 Article: 58391 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!psinntp!news.rlcn.rl.af.mil!rl.af.mil!welshg From: welshg@rl.af.mil (Glenn T. Welsh) Subject: Wayside Gardens Message-ID: <1995Mar13.154353.11366@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil> Sender: news@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil Nntp-Posting-Host: node_69.ira.rl.af.mil Reply-To: welshg@rl.af.mil Organization: Rome Laboratory/PKP Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 15:43:53 GMT Lines: 6 Status: O X-Status: Prices to high! Quality too low. That's my experience. But they have great pictures to help you through the winter! Glenn From qdttohu@edsvhs2.ericsson.se Thu Mar 16 00:39:18 EST 1995 Article: 58392 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!pipex!sunic!sunic.sunet.se!erinews.ericsson.se!ericom!news From: qdttohu@edsvhs2.ericsson.se (Tomas Hybner) Subject: Re: Vegetable Plants From Seeds - NOT! In-Reply-To: jmv@cci.com's message of Fri, 10 Mar 1995 19:16:02 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 84 Sender: news@ericsson.se Nntp-Posting-Host: edsvhs2.ericsson.se Organization: Ericsson Data AB References: Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 09:56:00 GMT Status: O X-Status: In article jmv@cci.com (James Villard) writes: Last year I tried growing vegetables from seeds. I read several books on the subject - but seemed to do everthing wrong. I planted tomatoes and peppers from seeds because I was told these were very easy to do. 1) I used peat pots instead of the plastic pots. When it was time to transplant no matter how careful I was every pot broke open and all the roots spilled out. 2) I used 2 shop lights for a total of 160 watts of power only about six inches away from the pots. When the plant started to grow they were long and stringy - I was told I needed more light. They also grew straight at the nearest light curving the stems - I tried rotating them every few days - finally they look like a silly straw. Yes I tin foiled all the way around. I'm unfamiliar with what "shop" lights are but given your description of the result in growth of the plants that they don't produce the sort of light seedlings need to grow. Normal light bulbs gives of light mainly in the red and green parts of the spectrum and seedlings needs blue light in order to grow properly. (I think that red light stimulates plants into growing vertically while blue simply stimulates them to grow in every possible direction.) Also, seedlings have a way of tilting their stem so that the leaves receive the most light, there isn't much to do about it other than making the light shine from directly over them. (If not you could always rotate them but I imagine that wastes a bit of the seedlings energy.) 3) I was told both seeds would germinate at room temperature - only the tomato plants did I had the heat up the pepper seeds to get them to germinate. It's all a question of what is considered being "room temperature". Amongst my friends "room temperature" is somewhere between 17 and 23 deg C. Although the difference between 19 and 21 deg C might not seem much to a human seedlings seems to be more sensitive. 4) They did not seem to grow much. The first 2 weeks they did great - then after about 2 - 3 inches high - they just stopped growing - nice and green but didn't grow any more. 5) Another thing I don't get is the cost, the trays, the seeds, the soil. The electricity is 12 weeks,16 hours a day,160watts, $0.11 a kilowatt. That comes up to $23.65 just for electric. I can get good solid plants for $1.99 for 6 - thats at least 72 plants I can buy from the store from the money for the electric. I see your point... Am I missing something or is growing plants from seeds very hard to do and only for fun and not economically a good idea. It is hard to say whether or not it is economical or not, are you supposed to count the time spent on nursing them as a loss of income? Never the less it is definitely fun! I live in Rochester N.Y. (upstate) I would like to try it again this year - I think I would enjoy it but the how-to books really put me on the wrong track. Last year I tried the hi-tech expensive way of growing seeds - purchasing everything I needed. Is it possible to just get some good outside topsoil, seed it and put it in the window. Whats the best thing to use for containers, I am looking at about 40 tomato plants and 20 pepper plants. Is the March and April sun in upstate N.Y. even strong enough of should I just forget about it. If you are interested in cutting costs you could bring up the seedlings in newspaper-tubes. Tear a strip of paper from a newspaper, roll it around your fingers or something to make it look like a tube, fill it with whatever soil you're using and put the seeds in there. When they've grown their first set of real leaves (which is neither of the two first ones) you can transplant them into tetra-paks (like the ones you buy milk and juice in made of paper with an inner coating of plastic). In relation to other plants tomatoe plants need a ridiculous amount of water, almost to the point where your best bet would be planting them in a bucket of water. I don't know about peppers though, you'd better ask someone else... Good luck! Tomas From pulliam@NREL.ColoState.EDU Thu Mar 16 00:39:19 EST 1995 Article: 58393 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!purdue!yuma!pulliam From: pulliam@NREL.ColoState.EDU (Bill Pulliam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: indoor fluorescent lighting Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 13 Mar 1995 18:16:21 GMT Organization: Natural Resource Ecology Lab, Colo. State Univ. Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k225l$363n@yuma.ACNS.ColoState.EDU> References: <3jvf8k$8kl@morrow.stanford.edu> <3k1tne$5bn@dsk92.itg.ti.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: arundinaria.nrel.colostate.edu Status: O X-Status: In article <3k1tne$5bn@dsk92.itg.ti.com> richc@phantom.pac.sc.ti.com (Richard Campbell) writes: > [snip] > > I don't disagree with any of this except for the fact that plants at 6" >from the lights get only 1/3 as much light as plants at 2". They >actually get much less than 1/3, I believe that they would get 1/9 as >much light. Doubling the distance from the light source quarters the >amount of light received. Not true if the lamps have reflective hoods that direct most of the light downward and you keep them at close range. The illumination still drops off pretty fast, but it is more like a inverse proportion to distance, not square of distance, so long as the distance from the hood is < half its width. You should still keep your seedlings as close to light as possible -- I've been amazed at how much better seedlings grow with lights 3" versus 6" from the tops of the soil! They are perfectly happy with their leaves touching the fluorescent bulbs directly. Bill From gillen@wordperfect.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:20 EST 1995 Article: 58394 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.cs.utah.edu!news.provo.novell.com!news.orem.novell.com!usenet From: gillen@wordperfect.com (Mike Gillen) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: HELP! Need Delphinium seed source Date: 13 Mar 1995 18:21:21 GMT Organization: Novell Inc. Lines: 8 Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[3162] Message-ID: <3k22f1$m9@grok2.orem.novell.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 151.155.235.40 X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0.5@151.155.235.40 Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name. Status: O X-Status: Does anyone have a source for Delpinium seeds here in U.S. or know of a source maybe called Superior Seed Co. in England. Follow-up or e-mail me personally. Thanks in advance. Mike Gillen gillen@wordperfect.com From gillen@wordperfect.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:22 EST 1995 Article: 58395 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.cs.utah.edu!news.provo.novell.com!news.orem.novell.com!usenet From: gillen@wordperfect.com (Mike Gillen) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: HELP! Need Delphinium seed source Date: 13 Mar 1995 18:21:31 GMT Organization: Novell Inc. Lines: 8 Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[3162] Message-ID: <3k22fb$nd@grok2.orem.novell.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 151.155.235.40 X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0.5@151.155.235.40 Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name. Status: O X-Status: Does anyone have a source for Delpinium seeds here in U.S. or know of a source maybe called Superior Seed Co. in England. Follow-up or e-mail me personally. Thanks in advance. Mike Gillen gillen@wordperfect.com From gillen@wordperfect.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:23 EST 1995 Article: 58396 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.cs.utah.edu!news.provo.novell.com!news.orem.novell.com!usenet From: gillen@wordperfect.com (Mike Gillen) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: HELP! Need Agway Nursury's address/phone Date: 13 Mar 1995 18:23:25 GMT Organization: Novell Inc. Lines: 7 Sender: -Not-Authenticated-[3162] Message-ID: <3k22it$ne@grok2.orem.novell.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 151.155.235.40 X-Posted-From: InterNews 1.0.5@151.155.235.40 Xdisclaimer: No attempt was made to authenticate the sender's name. Status: O X-Status: Does anyone have the address or phone number to Agway Nursury? I have no idea where it's located. Follow-up or e-mail me personally. Thanks in advance. Mike Gillen gillen@wordperfect.com From qdttohu@edsvhs2.ericsson.se Thu Mar 16 00:39:24 EST 1995 Article: 58397 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!sunic.sunet.se!erinews.ericsson.se!ericom!news From: qdttohu@edsvhs2.ericsson.se (Tomas Hybner) Subject: Re: Vegetable Plants From Seeds - NOT! In-Reply-To: qdttohu@edsvhs2.ericsson.se's message of Mon, 13 Mar 1995 09:56:00 GMT Message-ID: Lines: 11 Sender: news@ericsson.se Nntp-Posting-Host: edsvhs2.ericsson.se Organization: Ericsson Data AB References: Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 10:29:08 GMT Status: O X-Status: About using top-soil from your garden. Sterilize it first! You can do that by steaming the soil. Fill the bottom of a cooking-pot with small clean rocks up to about two inches, pour water over it so that the whaterlevel does not rise entirely above the rocks and then put the soil in (don't stir!). When the water simmers/boils the steam will find it's way through the soil and heat it to approximately the boiling point of water. This will kill almost everything in the soil that you don't want but it will preserve the things that you do want. Don't let it get too hot! When the soil is steaming you have hopefully succeeded in sterilizing the soil. Don't use the lowest layer of soil and don't blame me for any unwanted effects this has to whatever pot you were using! From daurio@lamb.cig.mot.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:25 EST 1995 Article: 58398 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!ftpbox!mothost!delphinium.cig.mot.com!lamb!daurio From: daurio@lamb.cig.mot.com (Suzanne Daurio) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: lady slippers Date: 13 Mar 95 18:04:25 GMT Organization: Motorola Cellular Infrastructure Group Lines: 19 Distribution: usa Message-ID: References: <3jl4og$2qo@news.bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: lamb.rtsg.mot.com Status: O X-Status: slbailey@bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) writes: >This seems like a good opportunity to teach your child that they can't HAVE >everything that's pretty or neat -- some things belong to nature and can be >enjoyed only by going TO them, not by bringing them to you. I agree. This certainly makes the ladyslippers even more special in my mind. If we ever get the chance to see them in the wild, I hope we have our camera so we can at least take a picture! In the mean time, I think it's also a good opportunity to begin to explore the world of orchids. Everyone had some good pointers regarding the hybrids, and that's where well start. Thanks to everyone for all the help. -- Sue Daurio daurio@cig.mot.com From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:26 EST 1995 Article: 58399 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Variegated plants from seed? Date: 13 Mar 1995 18:45:43 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 9 Message-ID: <3k23sn$m4u@post.its.mcw.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: Does anyone out there have any expertise regarding sexual propagation of plants with variegated foliage. Do (all, some, none, any) come true from seed? Any help appreciated. Post reply or e-mail. Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu "Existing order thrives upon ignorance and lies. Objective truth and individual reason are feared above all." From kmorgan@vcd.hp.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:27 EST 1995 Article: 58400 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!reuter.cse.ogi.edu!hp-cv!hp-pcd!news!kmorgan From: kmorgan@vcd.hp.com (kathy morgan) Subject: Re: strawberry pots Sender: news@vcd.hp.com (News user) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 18:34:42 GMT References: <3jsmdf$sm0@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu> <3juant$i7q@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Nntp-Posting-Host: hp-vcd.vcd.hp.com Organization: Hewlett-Packard VCD X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1.4] Lines: 9 Status: O X-Status: Okie Mom (okiemom@aol.com) wrote: : About trouble watering strawberry pots: I had trouble with mine until I : punched holes in a 2 liter soda bottle and buried it in the center with : only the bottle neck sticking out. Now I pour water into the bottle as : well as spraying the top and sides of the pot, and my plants are thriving. Why, Martha Stewart demonstrated this very technique on her show just yesterday :-) From sacks@notime.enet.dec.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:29 EST 1995 Article: 58401 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!caen!crl.dec.com!crl.dec.com!jac.zko.dec.com!notime.enet.dec.com!sacks From: sacks@notime.enet.dec.com (Gerald Sacks) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Saving Seeds Not Used This Year Date: 13 MAR 95 10:29:13 Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation Lines: 11 Message-ID: <3k1o3m$9nm@jac.zko.dec.com> References: <3jtht3$c0s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jtnae$ast@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> <1735FF367S86.LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: NOTIME Status: O X-Status: In article <1735FF367S86.LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU>, LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU writes... >I've started some seeds with plans for more. I won't use all >the seeds in a packet. Some will be used for successive planting >but what to do with the leftovers? How do I store them? I just put the packets in ziplock bags and put them in the refrigerator. Some people add a desiccant like silica gel or powdered milk, but I've never bothered. I get good germination from five-year-old tomato seeds. Gerald Sacks sacks@notime.enet.dec.com From n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:30 EST 1995 Article: 58402 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!reuter.cse.ogi.edu!henson!news From: n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu (Stephanie Feeney) Subject: Re: How good is Heronswood Nursery? Message-ID: <1995Mar13.151952.25667@henson.cc.wwu.edu> To: 3jsvfb$7mm@newsbf02.news.aol.com Sender: news@henson.cc.wwu.edu (USENET-WWU) Organization: Western Washington University X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #3 References: <-100395090631@sburke.ils.nwu.edu> <3jsvfb$7mm@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 15:19:52 GMT Lines: 20 Status: O X-Status: Greetings from a Heronswood fan, I have ordered from Heronswood for the past 4 years, and had the good fortune to visit the nursery severaltimes (it is by appointment only and located on the Kitsap Peninsula which requires a ferry ride.) Their selection really is ecclectic partly due to the fact that Dan Hinkley travels around the world on plant collection trips. he spent 5 weeks last year in Korea and is about to leave for Nepal/the Himalayas. Much as I love and adore the people and selection of this fine nursery I would pass along one caveat: you can spend a lot of money on very special plants that may or may not do well for you in your locale. A word of caution is in order to select what has a chance to grow for you in your site and then care well for these plants. Many of them are new to residential gardeners and are not the tough as nails, abuse me if you will varieties. I believe they are well grown by talented professionals, but a bit more responsibility will be on your shoulders to establish them well. Personally, I think it is worth it--I only wish I had been more careful with some of the things I purchased early on from them. Hope I haven't been too discouraging! Cheers, Stephanie Feeney "The Northwest Gardeners' Resource Directory" n6848640@henson.cc.wwu.edu From dougr@thalassa.cnet.att.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:31 EST 1995 Article: 58403 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!nntpa!thalassa!not-for-mail From: dougr@thalassa.cnet.att.com (douglas.rhodes) Subject: Re: When to plant tomatoes Message-ID: Originator: dougr@thalassa Sender: dougr@thalassa (douglas.rhodes) Nntp-Posting-Host: thalassa.cnet.att.com Organization: AT&T Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 14:29:21 GMT Lines: 36 Status: O X-Status: I live in western Morris county and I planted mine on March 1 and I hope for decent weather to plant by May 1. You kind of have to check the weather around May 1 and see. Sometimes, I don't plant outside until mid-May or later. You have to make sure all chances of frost is over. By then, the plants will be getting high, you may have to transplant them once or twice to larger pots. In any event, you can be putting them outside (most likely) during the day to condition them by end of April. Living near Newark airport, you should have slightly warmer weather than me, and you may be able to put them out earlier (I live at about 900-1000 feet above sea level). Don't rush to put them outside before it's time. One frost will ruin your whole day! --Doug Rhodes (dougr@aloft.att.com) Jeff Stier writes: >>I live in North/Central N.J. (near Newark Airport) and am going to plant >>tomatoes from seed. >>Burpess says to plant them 6-8 weeks before last frost. >>I have a great southern exposure indoors.... >>Outside the sunlight is adequate but not great. >>When should I plant indoors and when should I take them out? >>Thanks >>****************************************************************************** >>Jeff Stier >>jstier@yu1.yu.edu >>!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! From nadine@seymour.ucs.ualberta.ca Thu Mar 16 00:39:33 EST 1995 Article: 58404 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!sol.ctr.columbia.edu!news.mindlink.net!news.bc.net!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!nadine From: nadine@seymour.ucs.ualberta.ca (Nadine Leenders) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Alberta gardens Date: 13 Mar 1995 18:55:18 GMT Organization: Computing and Network Services, U of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada Lines: 21 Message-ID: <3k24em$eiq@rover.ucs.ualberta.ca> References: <3ja2va$qlu@news.sas.ab.ca>,<3jt6g6$gi4@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net> <3k1oj1$bqs@holly.cc.uleth.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: solstice.ucs.ualberta.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: : >Any other Alta gardeners out there waiting with baited breath for spring???? : > : >Dawn Campbell, St. Albert, AB, Canada Yup, me. Another publication to look at is the magazine "Gardening in Alberta" which recently got renamed for wider western distribution. It is available at the Southgate library in Edmonton and at the London Drugs on 51st. No doubt it can be found at other locations, but these are places I go to. Looks like spring is finally arriving!!! -- Nadine Leenders | nadine.leenders@ualberta.ca Computing and Network Services | (403) 492-9349 University of Alberta Edmonton, Alberta Canada T6G 2H1 From plantone@iquest.net Thu Mar 16 00:39:35 EST 1995 Article: 58405 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!dorite!news From: plantone@iquest.net (Stan) Subject: Re: Hydroponics Message-ID: Sender: news@dorite.use.com (News Admin) Organization: IQuest Network Services References: <3jan0h$7v8@comet.connix.com> <3js5c4$ak6@shore.shore.net> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 13:28:40 GMT Lines: 24 Status: O X-Status: <3jttjp$1ei@thor.inlink.com> Organization: IQuest Network Services X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.91.6 In article <3jttjp$1ei@thor.inlink.com>, raiar@vulcan.inlink.com (Gary V. Deutschmann Sr.) says: > >Hi Bill >The only way to go is to use Hydro-Sol and then add to that whatever you need. Bill, i know one of your jobs is to push your products, but to say that Hydro-Sol is the *only* way to go is IMO a bit too much. other nutrients that yield excellent results are: general hydroponic's flora-mutrients beautiful plants brand nutrient eco liquid fertilizers I&M rockwool formula one the above nutrients tend to be complete, so mix as directed and go! Stan From grumbo@niagara.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:36 EST 1995 Article: 58406 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!niagara.com!slip0.niagara.com!grumbo From: grumbo@niagara.com (Grahame Rumsby) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Fertilizing perennials (Rockery in particular) Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 14:01:55 UNDEFINED Organization: Internet Connect Niagara Lines: 7 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: slip0.niagara.com X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev B final beta #1] Status: O X-Status: I planted a rock garden last year which is approximately 50 -60' in length.............. I was wondering what type of fertilizing should be done in the spring with these plants which are now beginning to see the light of day after the snow has melted... Grahame From cirsium@halcyon.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:37 EST 1995 Article: 58407 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!nwnexus!news.halcyon.com!usenet From: cirsium@halcyon.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Need help with Seattle herb garden & blackberries Date: 13 Mar 1995 19:12:16 GMT Organization: Northwest Nexus Inc. Lines: 26 Message-ID: <3k25eg$dp7@news.halcyon.com> References: <3jl8a0$fck@gtenmo1.nmo.gtegsc.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: blv-pm1-ip3.halcyon.com X-Newsreader: AIR News 3.X (SPRY, Inc.) Status: O X-Status: > Tracy Warner writes: > I am wondering if anyone out there can give me some hints/suggestions > about what kind of herbs to plant in the Washngton State area, > specifically in Seattle. You should be able to grow most of the commonly used culinary herbs in Seattle. I currently grow rosemary, bay, lavender, parsley, tarragon, chves, coriander, several varieties of basil and thyme, borage, lovage, sage, chervil and pineapple mint. > My garden gets a lot of sun and the soil is claylike and fertile. You may find that the typical Seattle clay requires some deep digging and incorporation of compost plus some coarse sand to improve its drainage. Most of the popular herbs will not tolerate wet feet, and are much more likely to drown during our winters than freeze! _____________________________________________________________________ S. Andrew Schulman Voice: (206)545-1117 Springwood Associates, Inc. FAX: (206)545-1107 Seattle, WA cirsium@halcyon.com All the usual disclaimers. ______________________________________________________________________ From claudir@hubcap.clemson.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:38 EST 1995 Article: 58408 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!hubcap.clemson.edu!hubcap!claudir From: claudir@hubcap.clemson.edu (White Horse) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: The course we all must take? Date: 13 Mar 95 18:56:08 GMT Organization: Clemson University Lines: 18 Message-ID: References: <3jsuug$a6a@baja.pacificrim.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: hubcap.clemson.edu Status: O X-Status: Linda Copes writes: >THE COURSE WE MUST TAKE? >Recently, a group of people of mixed ages, occupations and nationalities participated in a free Project NatureConnect training course via email. Hello, I have participated in this course and the project. I can share my experiences with you. There are also some articles. Feel free to contact me. Cheers, Claudia claudir@hubcap.clemson.edu . From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:40 EST 1995 Article: 58409 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: When to put down sod? Message-ID: <1995Mar13.130949.40139@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 13:09:49 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 19 Status: O X-Status: In article , kalmloff@sky.net (Kevin Almloff) writes: > I have a 12' x 20' mud patch in my yard that I want to sod. Can I put down > the sod now, or do I need to wait for the grass to start growing again. I'm > in zone 7 (Kansas City). > Is this a mud patch because it was previously a garden bed, or some other disturbed area, or is it a mudpatch because it is the area of the yard that all the melt water collects in? If the second is true, you'll need to correct the drainage to that patch (french drains or dry wells or drainage tile) before you sod, or you'll just be doing it again next year. I'd wait until about the time that the grass is greening up before I sodded... I'd like to see the roots establish quickly, and with as little stress as possible. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From ssanders@umich.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:41 EST 1995 Article: 58410 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich.edu!usenet From: Susan Sanders Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Roto Gro plant stand Date: 13 Mar 1995 19:49:44 GMT Organization: The University of Michigan Lines: 15 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k27ko$34q@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> References: <3k1vu4$5bn@dsk92.itg.ti.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.211.54.249 X-Newsreader: Nuntius Version 1.2 X-XXDate: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 19:51:42 GMT Status: O X-Status: In article <3k1vu4$5bn@dsk92.itg.ti.com> Richard Campbell, richc@phantom.pac.sc.ti.com writes: > So does anyone have: A Roto Gro unit? Know anyone I've seen pictures of it and been intrigued by it. One of the things I've thought about is whether the plants would get damaged as they rotate, not by being jiggled by it, but by getting leaves stuck in the mechanism, whether it allows enough vertical space between shelves, and whether it would actually look nice or silly. I also think it would extend pretty far into the room and would suggest you actually measure the spot where you would put it and try to imagine how it would look with a large furniture unit sitting there, blocking your window (actually, I hadn't even noticed that it had lights built in; I thought the idea was to make the most use of a window). -Sue Sanders From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:42 EST 1995 Article: 58411 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Paw Paw tree??? Date: 13 Mar 1995 19:59:29 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 27 Message-ID: <3k2871$m4u@post.its.mcw.edu> References: <3jverm$phj@deep.rsoft.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: Gordon Croft wrote: > > Anyone know anything about the Paw Paw tree? > > It is suppose to grow on the west coast of Canada (where we live) but > I know nothing of the quality of the fruit. > > Thanks in advance, > Gord > I'm also trying to grow the paw-paw (Asimina triloba) here in Wisconsin. The fruit is a US native plant related to the tropical custard apple, whose taste is indescribably good. It's my understanding that the fruit in the wild can be quite variable in quality, so it's better to buy from a commercial source and within the last few years, many named varieties have become available. One thing to beware of is that they are difficult to transplant because of the strong tap root, so buy your plants small and be careful. Mine are about 3 years old, about 2-3 feet tall and survived -20F last winter - no blooms yet. Two varieties are suggested for proper pollination. I have not heard anything about the symbiotic fungus mentioned in another reply. Good luck. Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu "Existing order thrives upon ignoranceand lies. Objective truth and individual reason are feared above all." From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:43 EST 1995 Article: 58412 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP WITH WHITE FLYS I THINK Message-ID: <1995Mar13.132030.40140@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 13:20:30 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 36 Status: O X-Status: In article , USER@interaccess.com (B.LORCH) writes: > Well for the fourth year now ive started my hot pepper seeds in the basement > under lites this is the first time ive had problems. i believe i hwve an > infestation of white flys? the plants have small white nodules stuck to them. > and the keep getting more ive tried "SAFER SOAP" with a little success but the > things just multply.i tried some flowering kail & cabbich but they died off > also. my leeks are doing great. what do i have to do to stop this and what > kind of critters are these?? also i keep orchards in this aera and they are > doing great. Ideas? help!! ill be back next thir nite so please em me thanks > BILL Whiteflies are small critters, about gnat-size, that swirl out of the vegetation when you brush an infested plant. Sound right? Their life cycle is about 20 days, with eggs laid on the undersides of leaves, typically, and hatching to scale-like larvae in a couple of days. These molt to a pupa in the underside of the leaf again, and finally hatch to the moth-like adults (which are about 1 mm long). Yellow sticky traps to catch the adults are the easy way out, but since you seem to have a major infestation, use the sticky traps + a weekly spray of alcohol, or soap (or a broad-spectrum pesticide with "quick knockdown" like pyrethrins or rotenone). Pay particular attention to getting the spray on the underside of the leaves. (If the plants have a good enough rootsystem that you can upend the pots, you can turn them upside down and dunk the leaves and stems in soapy water). PS: raise the humidity level: I usually see the infestations decrease in severity as the humidity levels rise. Keep at it. Whiteflies don't go away of their own accord on indoor plants. Sigh. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:44 EST 1995 Article: 58413 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Topiary Message-ID: <1995Mar13.132702.40143@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 13:27:02 -0600 References: <3jtql1$b5h@usenet.srv.cis.pitt.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 24 Status: O X-Status: In article <3jtql1$b5h@usenet.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, Joe Szurek writes: > Can anyone recommend any good books or other sources on topiary? > I'm looking specifically for info on how to create a "sculpture" by > building a wire frame, but I need some good advice on what to fill > it with, what kind of plants to use, how to water (or build in a > watering system), etc. The "topiary" I see today is usually a mesh frame mounted on a post, and filled with growing medium and sphagnum moss, much like lining a wire basket for hanging baskets. Something like _Ficus pumila_, creeping fig, is planted on the spagnum, and trimmed with scissors if it gets too out of bounds. The topiary I'm more familiar with involves many years of training and selective pruning of a shrub or tree to produce a living sculpture. It's pretty gardener-intensive.... ;-) I believe Longwood Gardens has an extensive topiary area, but I've not been there: I've only seen slides from a friend's internship there. There was a rather dramatic spirally-pruned Chamaecyparis (?) that I recall. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:46 EST 1995 Article: 58414 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Paw Paw Message-ID: <1995Mar13.133603.40144@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 13:36:02 -0600 References: <3jverm$phj@deep.rsoft.bc.ca> <3jvhr7$fs2@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 28 Status: O X-Status: In article <3jvhr7$fs2@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com>, t12dl7h@ix.netcom.com (Timothy Hostetler) writes: > In <3jverm$phj@deep.rsoft.bc.ca> Gordon Croft > writes: > >> >>Anyone know anything about the Paw Paw tree? >> >>It is suppose to grow on the west coast of Canada (where we live) but >>I know nothing of the quality of the fruit. > > Grows wild in Ohio. Quite popular some years ago with the Indians. > It's got big leaves. Grows in shaded areas...under the canopy so to > speak...in woods around here. I've never eaten the fruit but the > munchkins in the woods (sqirrels, deer, etc) supposedly do. Of course, > the "wildlife" around here will eat a Big Mac if you give it to them. A good pawpaw is a wonderfully good fruit. Almost better than any other fruits I've eaten! _Asimina triloba_ is the scientific name, and it's not very common in commerce (it's a fruit that just does not ship will). However, about a year or so ago, I listened to an interview with a fellow who was breeding pawpaws for flavor and quality. Wish I could remember his name. You might try getting in touch with the folks at Seed Saver's Exchange in Decorah, IA, and see if they've met him. (SSE is "branching out" a bit, to include some fruits). Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From jsalga01@troy.eng.eds.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:47 EST 1995 Article: 58415 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news1.oakland.edu!newshub.gmr.com!troy.eng.eds.com!troy.eng.eds.com!not-for-mail From: jsalga01@troy.eng.eds.com (John Salgado) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Help! Vole Damage Date: 13 Mar 1995 14:35:56 -0500 Organization: EDS Corporation Lines: 10 Message-ID: <3k26qs$7ic@pascal.troy.eng.eds.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pascal152.troy.eng.eds.com X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL4 Status: O X-Status: The snow has finally melted from my yard in Southeastern Michigan and I have noticed long, meandering trails gouged into my lawn. According to the nursery, these trails are caused by voles. They said I can set traps, but is there a better way to get rid of these pests and 2) prevent them from chewing up my turf next winter. My apologies if this topic has been previously discussed. If it has been, please email the response. Thank You. John From sheiler@gte.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:49 EST 1995 Article: 58416 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!ceylon!sheiler.gte.com!user From: sheiler@gte.com (Sandra Heiler) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: help-- damping off Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 13:19:39 -0500 Organization: GTE Labs Lines: 12 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: sheiler.gte.com Status: O X-Status: Help!! I failed to *prevent* mold on my seedlings and now I need to stop it. I finally managed to get 2 particularly hard-to-sprout seed types to germinate -- helleborus and Japanese iris -- and I have what looks like 2 quite different types of mold growing on the sprouts and all around the seed starting mix (in 1 case) or on the Jiffy 7s (in the other case). Some have 1/8" white fur and some have long (1") webby things growing all over the place. Can I save these seedlings? They've barely sprouted, e.g., 1/4". Would I kill them if I sprayed with Clorox in water? How about baking soda? I've taken the plastic off the tops of my seed trays, but I fear that isn't enough. They're growing in a room that stays about 60F. Thanks in advance. Sandy From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:50 EST 1995 Article: 58417 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: witch hazel bloom time - update Date: 13 Mar 1995 20:05:32 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 17 Message-ID: <3k28ic$m4u@post.its.mcw.edu> References: <3jvkoc$o1v@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: keziak@aol.com (Kezia K) wrote: > > Hi all -- > > A while ago I asked when witch hazel bloomed... The native witch hazel, Hamamellis virginica, blooms in the fall. The others, H. japonia and H. intermedia. bloom in the spring. In fact, my H. intermedia "Arnold Promise" was in full bloom yesterday here in Milwaukee. Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu "Existing order thrives upon ignorance and lies. Objective truth and individual reason are feared above all." From rogerv@sco.COM Thu Mar 16 00:39:51 EST 1995 Article: 58418 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: misc.rural,rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!hobbes!rogerv From: rogerv@sco.COM () Subject: Re: Septic Helpers Organization: SCO, Inc. Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 19:32:20 GMT Message-ID: <1995Mar13.193220.1742@sco.com> References: Sender: news@sco.com (News admin) Lines: 21 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu misc.rural:15928 rec.gardens:58418 Status: O X-Status: >> This maybe a bit off this thread but if the problem is keeping >> the system active would it be a good thing to add oxygen to the >> system via some form of an air pump. I see how the water will >> bring oxygen into the system which is good on one hand but adds >> to the saturation problem...why not simply add the oxygen supply >> via a pipe/pump much like a fish tank? Any thoughts? >Actually, these are anarobic bacteria which means they prefer >no oxygen as I understand it. O2 would kill them. While the bacteria in a septic tank are anaerobic, they are much slower at breaking down the waste than aerobic bacteria would be. In fact, one thing is done to improve septic systems for difficult locations is to bubble air through septic tank. This helps to get aerobic bacteria going that can then get more waste digestion done faster. So the answer is, yes it works, but it is one more mechanical device to go wrong, or to lose power when the utility power fails. -Roger From cmay@Direct.CA Thu Mar 16 00:39:53 EST 1995 Article: 58419 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!scipio.cyberstore.ca!news.Direct.CA!usenet From: cmay@Direct.CA (Colleenmay) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: hollyhock eaters Date: 13 Mar 1995 20:11:47 GMT Organization: Internet Direct Inc. Lines: 21 Message-ID: <3k28u3$1n9@fun.Direct.CA> References: <3k1lji$78h@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: dyn-43.direct.ca X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+ Status: O X-Status: In article <3k1lji$78h@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, tigibson@aol.com (TIGIBSON) says: > >i had beautiful pink hollyhock blooms last year. and then something ate my >leaves, leaving only the veins! >i'm an organic gardener and i need suggestions for how to deal with this >year. >any ideas? > >tigibson Oh yes,yes,yes...You are one step ahead of me. If you receive any information re the culprit please let me know. I love hollyhocks and have tried growing them 3 years in a row. I don't even get blooms before something eats the leaves exactly as you described. If you would be so kind :*) please tell me how, where, and when you plant. Do you start with seedlings or seeds? Sun or shade...etc. Thank you and good luck. Colleen From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:54 EST 1995 Article: 58420 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wayside Gardens Date: 13 Mar 1995 20:16:53 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 25 Message-ID: <3k297l$m4u@post.its.mcw.edu> References: <1995Mar13.154353.11366@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: welshg@rl.af.mil (Glenn T. Welsh) wrote: > > Prices to high! Quality too low. That's my experience. But they have great > pictures to help you through the winter! > > Glenn > >I've been ordering from Wayside for over 10 years now and have almost always found their quality to be excellent. Any problems that I encountered (and there were a few), they corrected and gave a refund/replacement with no questions asked. Yes, they are pricey, but you generally get what you pay for. "Good plants are not cheap and cheap plants are not good." However, it does pay to shop around. Wayside is an intermediate dealer for many of the plants that they offer and if you shop at some of the smaller, more specialized plantsmen, you can save quite a bit. Example, a friend wanted a weeping pussywillow, Salix capreolata cv. pendula. Wayside wanted over $100 for it, but I found it offered by Arborvillage Farm Nursery (Holt, MO) for $35.00. Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu "Existing order thrives upon ignorance and lies. Objective truth and individual reason are feared above all." From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:55 EST 1995 Article: 58421 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Is "Roundup" Good for Ind. Weeds? (Was: Lawn) Message-ID: <1995Mar13.134657.40146@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 13:46:57 -0600 References: <3jkhku$d5t@werner.cs.mtu.edu> <3jkvlf$5u8@news.iastate.edu> <1995Mar9.211518.15011@Princeton.EDU> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 45 Status: O X-Status: In article <1995Mar9.211518.15011@Princeton.EDU>, mms@tucson.princeton.edu (Margaret M. Steinbugler) writes: > Someone (sorry, I lost the name) wrote: >> >>I have used Round Up and have never had a problem with it. It becomes >>inactive when it comes into contact with soil and leaves no residue. It >>can, however, kill any plant that it comes in contact with and should >>never be used around streams and ponds. I am not sure how long the >>chemical stays active on the leaves after application. >> There is a formulation of glyphosate designed for use on stream and lake margins, etc. I think Pondmaster is the name, but DO check the label and whether or not special permits are needed before using glyphosate near bodies of water. The difference is not in the glyphosate, but in the "inert ingredients". >>In general its a fairly safe chemical. >>sdb > > Question: Is Roundup good as a spot week killer, say, for spraying > dandelions as they come up in the lawn? Would it kill too much > of the surrounding grass? Is there a better way to get rid of > dandelions than pulling (which keeps me from weeding the garden) (-: ? If you apply it strictly to the dandelion foliage (a "stamp licker" is a good way to do this), it will get the dandelions without nailing the adjacent grass. Roundup is non-selective, and will essentially kill any green plant, given sufficient dosages and repetitions. Glyphosate is the only herbicide that I consider safe enough to use; I will NOT use 2,4-D, trimec, and other commonly available "home weed killers". Personally, I find that a session digging dandelions EXCELLENT therapy for dealing with faculty meetings, etc... And it seems to work better for me than weeding the veggies! BTW, one of the best dandelion diggers I know of is a good strong slot screwdriver... Another advantage of digging dandelions is that if the plant is quite large, it may have shaded out the grass underneath it. It's quite easy to put a pinch of grass seed in the newly denuded area as you're digging. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:57 EST 1995 Article: 58422 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seed Germination Problems Message-ID: <1995Mar13.134916.40147@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 13:49:16 -0600 References: <3jtht3$c0s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jtnae$ast@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> <1735FF0C3S86.LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 15 Status: O X-Status: In article <1735FF0C3S86.LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU>, LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU writes: > This is my first real effort. All went well, seeds selected, mix > just right, paper pots crafted and heat source to keep all warm > - seeds planted and notes made. Everything moist and enclosed in > plactic. Only 3 days later I noticed some white fungal growth. > Off came the plastic and within 2 days most of the white stuff > is gone. I've kept the medium moist. A number of herbs have > sprouted and otherwise all looks well. Sounds good so far! Keep the air circulating (use a fan if the air is really "dead" in the area, and keep the humidity up with pans of water, a "cool mist steamer" or frequent misting. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From vcolvin@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:39:58 EST 1995 Article: 58423 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!not-for-mail From: vcolvin@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu (Valerie Colvin) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Grapes, North Fla Date: 13 Mar 1995 13:02:57 -0500 Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 11 Message-ID: <3k21ch$hd1@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet3.scri.fsu.edu Status: O X-Status: We have recently purchased an older home with an established grape arbor. How do I maintain this feature of the garden. I have seen some garden keep a main stem along a main pole or main wire and the other vines are cut out. What do you fertilize with? When do you prune? Thanks. -- + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + V. N. Colvin "The pure and simple truth is Tallahassee, FL never pure and rarely simple." + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + From jenga44773@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:39:59 EST 1995 Article: 58424 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jenga44773@aol.com (JEnga44773) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Tips & Ideas Needed Date: 13 Mar 1995 15:24:35 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 8 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k29m3$ahr@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: jenga44773@aol.com (JEnga44773) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I am interested in garden/landscaping tips & ideas that anyone has found particularly useful in their experience. These tips & ideas could be for beginners or advanced gardeners. I am interested in creating a booklet and publishing these tips & ideas. Thank You for your interest Julie Enga From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:01 EST 1995 Article: 58425 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Identifying fungus, wildflowers Message-ID: <1995Mar13.135908.40149@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 13:59:08 -0600 References: <3jvsib$pq5@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 33 Status: O X-Status: In article <3jvsib$pq5@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, azureus@aol.com (Azureus) writes: > I went for a walk in my woods today, and I saw a type of fungus > I've never seen before. It was covering the forest floor, attatched to > dead wood, and seemed to be flourishing, even though last week was > very cold and snowy. Each fungus was *bright* red on the inside, and > a dusty pink on the out side. It was vaugely cup-shaped, and very > fleshy--it reminded me of red bell peppers. Does this sound familiar > to any fungus fanatics out there? The land is located in Iowa, close to > the Missouri river, zone 4 or 5, I can never figure out which one we're > in. My second question is, can anyone reccommend a good field guide for > Iowa (or Midwest) wildflowers and other native plants? You're probably in zone 5... I'm in zone 4 up here in Waterloo. I'll bet the fungi you saw were Sarcosyphe, scarlet cups, but this is a wild guess from the distance. What diameter (approximately)? As for wildflower books: well... the Peterson Wildflower guide is probably the best "all purpose beginner's" book for Iowa, and I highly recommend it. You may also want to look at the books written by Dean Roosa and Sylvan Runkel: there's one on common prairie plants, and another on woodland plants. There is a good series of publications from the Missouri Dept. of Conservation that are very nice for folks in the southern part of Iowa, and of course, there's Pete vanderLinden and Don Farrar's book on native trees. And don't forget the book on fungi, written by Don___, Lois Tiffany, and George Knaphus, with wonderful color pictures. Sorry I'm blanking on exact titles, but much of my library is packed at the moment. The trees and fungi books are available from Iowa State University Press, Ames, Ia and the Missouri books (the ferns and orchids books are *very nice*) are available by writing the Missouri DOC in Jefferson City, MO. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From wayne@math.psu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:02 EST 1995 Article: 58426 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!poincare.math.psu.edu!wayne From: wayne@math.psu.edu (Gene Wayne) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Paw Paw tree??? Date: 13 Mar 1995 20:42:26 GMT Organization: Dept. of Mathematics, Penn State University Lines: 16 Message-ID: <3k2ani$cmb@soc2.pop.psu.edu> References: <3jverm$phj@deep.rsoft.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: poincare.math.psu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Gordon Croft (Gordon_Croft@Mindlink.bc.ca) wrote: : Anyone know anything about the Paw Paw tree? : It is suppose to grow on the west coast of Canada (where we live) but : I know nothing of the quality of the fruit. : Thanks in advance, : Gord Just a folow-on to the other replies. If you're interested in trying to grow them, I believe that they are available from Burpees. -- Gene Wayne (814)-865-7527 Dept. of Math., Penn State Univ. wayne@math.psu.edu From tulcyn@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:03 EST 1995 Article: 58427 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: tulcyn@aol.com (TulCyn) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: What about light bulbs? Date: 13 Mar 1995 15:36:48 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 4 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k2ad0$ano@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: tulcyn@aol.com (TulCyn) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I have been using a 75 watt spectrum light bulb with a clamp on lamp with an adjustable arm for my seedlings. With the heat I can not put the light to close to my little babies. Can using light bulbs be as effective as floresent tubes? From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:04 EST 1995 Article: 58428 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Natural repellants for cats Message-ID: <1995Mar13.140855.40151@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 14:08:55 -0600 References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3k0ct6$30t@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 28 Status: O X-Status: In article <3k0ct6$30t@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>, cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) writes: > He should mind the cats, strays are rarely vaccinated for rabies. > > I have always had success with open bottles of white vinegar. > Cats hate the smell. He might also want to consider live- > trapping them for turning over the ASPCA. > > Chris Owens > > >>I have a friend with a stray cat problem in his neighborhood. >>(There are dozens.) He doesn't mind the cats but their urine seems >>to kill some of his plants. Are there any natural ways to discourage >>the cats from entering his garden? The most successful approach is to capture the strays, euthanize those found to be carrying viruses like FeLV or FIV, neuter and vaccinate the healthy ones and *return them to their former territory*. Cats are highly territorial, and when there is a large surrounding feral population, they keep "stranger cats" out of their area. (Otherwise, you get new strays moving in). Vaccinations keep the populations reasonably healthy, and neutering prevents further population growth. This approach is being used successfully to manage feral populations in several areas. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:05 EST 1995 Article: 58429 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tree tomatoes Message-ID: <1995Mar13.141204.40152@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 14:12:03 -0600 References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3k0d4f$31r@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 23 Status: O X-Status: In article <3k0d4f$31r@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>, cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) writes: Nope. Different genus. _Cyphomandra betacea_. Rarely blooms, much less fruits, outside of the subtropics. Makes a smallish tree, though, that is frost-tender. I'm not fond of the flavor of the fruit I've sampled, either. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu > Sounds like hype to me. Never heard of a tree that produced > tomatoes, only vines. (Maybe they have a variety that can > be trained to a tree-like habit?) > > Chris Owens > >>I saw an advertisment for tree tomatoes. The pictures looked like cut >>tomatoes. The hype said the were tomatoes and tasted great. The price >>was reasonable. Somehow, I get the feeling that they are trying to sucker >>me. >> >>What can anyone tell me about tree tomatoes? >> >>William Buchman From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:07 EST 1995 Article: 58430 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Sweetheart Ivy Reversion Message-ID: <1995Mar13.141513.40153@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 14:15:13 -0600 References: <2252529629.1042885@lamg.com> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 19 Status: O X-Status: In article <2252529629.1042885@lamg.com>, KTyrrell@lamg.com (Kerin Tyrrell) writes: > Anybody know why sweetheart ivy would 'revert' and send of shoots with > traditional ivy-type leaves? > > Bought some sweetheart ivy last fall and combined it with ivy geraniums for > some large pots to put on the front porch. Left the pots out in the back yard > until they looked showy and pretty much ignored them lately with all the rain > we've been getting out in So. Calif. lately. Went out last week and noticed > shoots with the traditional lobed leaves. For info: I'm in zone 10 so really > no frost, filtered sun, they didn't get lots of fertilizer, and the pots are > well drained so I don't think all this rain is the problem. > > Sooooo, do they just do this or can I fix it by doing/not doing something? This is a somatic mutation, and you can expect to see it again. The "cure" is to prune out all affected branches. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:08 EST 1995 Article: 58431 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Vegetable Plants From Seeds - NOT! Message-ID: <1995Mar13.142027.40156@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 14:20:27 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 23 Status: O X-Status: In article , qdttohu@edsvhs2.ericsson.se (Tomas Hybner) writes: > > About using top-soil from your garden. Sterilize it first! You can do that by steaming > the soil. Fill the bottom of a cooking-pot with small clean rocks up to about two > inches, pour water over it so that the whaterlevel does not rise entirely above the > rocks and then put the soil in (don't stir!). When the water simmers/boils the steam > will find it's way through the soil and heat it to approximately the boiling point > of water. This will kill almost everything in the soil that you don't want but it > will preserve the things that you do want. Don't let it get too hot! > When the soil is steaming you have hopefully succeeded in sterilizing the soil. > Don't use the lowest layer of soil and don't blame me for any unwanted effects this has > to whatever pot you were using! Steamed soil (or baked soil) stinks up the house pretty badly in the process (unless you're like me and LIKE the smell). Put the steamed soil in covered cans (a dinner plate over the can will do), and let it set for several days before you use it. The steaming or baking process often produces some unwanted products of decomposition that can slow down or stop plant growth. So far, I believe, these products haven't been well characterised. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From fpm@u.washington.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:09 EST 1995 Article: 58432 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!news.clark.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!nntp.cac.washington.edu!fpm From: fpm@u.washington.edu (Frank Miles) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: low pH soil ... resistant to lime? Date: 13 Mar 1995 20:53:38 GMT Organization: University of Washington, Seattle Lines: 23 Message-ID: <3k2bci$kji@nntp2.u.washington.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: nntp2.u.washington.edu Status: O X-Status: We have tested our soil for about 5 years now (Sudbury kit), only to find a persistent low pH: initially about 4.5, it has crept up to under 5.5. This is despite adding over 100 lb of dolomitic lime each year to our 800 ft^2 of garden soil (this would seem to be a pretty high concentration). What might be the problem? - the lime might be leached out in each winter's rain (we're in Seattle). - lime doesn't change pH as well as you might think (tell me more). - the Sudbury kit is inaccurate - there's something in the soil that persists in decreasing the ph. (perhaps our compost pile? the breakdown of the sod pile, what used to be the top layer of our garden plot?) Has anyone had a similar experience? We know that most garden plants really don't like this low a pH (hard for the roots to absorb the right things when there's such an exchange occurring just due to pH). TIA... -frank From kabowers@whidbey.net Thu Mar 16 00:40:11 EST 1995 Article: 58433 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!nwnexus!nwnexus!islander.whidbey.net!asn6.whidbey.net!user From: kabowers@whidbey.net Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Whidbey Is WA Celebration Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 11:25:56 +0100 Organization: The Whidbey Connection Lines: 25 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: asn6.whidbey.net Status: O X-Status: Meerkerk Rhododendron Gardens, on beautiful Whidbey Island, invites you to our Spring Opening Celebration Saturday March 18th 9am-4pm. Enjoy early rhododendrons, spring bulb displays,flowering ornamental trees and guided garden tours in the 53 acre Meerkerk Garden overlooking the Saratoga Straits of Puget Sound. A special sale of superior rhododendrons will be offered, benefiting the garden restoration and Wooland Preserve efforts. Rhody experts will be available to answer your gardening questions. Meerkerk Gardens, a non profit trust, is located 2 miles south of Greenbank on Whidbey Island. From Seattle take the Mukilteo ferry to Clinton travel 20 miles noth to Resort Rd, turn right on Resort Rd and continue 1/2 mile to Meerkerk Ln turn left on Meerkerk Ln and follow the signs to visitor parking. To request more information or to schedule group tours during the spring season: call the garden office at 360-678-1912 email kabowers@whidbey.net (Meerkek info as subject) Visit the Meerkerk Gardens WWW site at http://islander.whidbey.net/~kabowers/Meerkerk.html Have a great Spring!!!!! From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:12 EST 1995 Article: 58434 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Natural repellants for cats Message-ID: <1995Mar13.142822.40158@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 14:28:22 -0600 References: <9503131204.AA29125@rpmac> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 11 Status: O X-Status: In article <9503131204.AA29125@rpmac>, russell_parrish@larc.nasa.gov (Russell V. Parrish) writes: > I remember reading in rec.gardens a similiar thread that said the herb rue > was a natural cat repellant. It's cuz cats are smarter than humans... ;-) Rue (_Ruta graveolens_) is a pretty darn good sensitizer. Once you're sensitized, the dermatitis is more dramatic than poison ivy dermatitis, I hear, and you often cross-react with other members of the Rutaceae, like citrus fruits. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From kbenarc1@cc.swarthmore.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:13 EST 1995 Article: 58435 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.cc.swarthmore.edu!NewsWatcher!user From: kbenarc1@cc.swarthmore.edu (Kris Benarcik) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Crab Grass -- how to grow?? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 13 Mar 1995 21:12:34 GMT Organization: Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College Lines: 23 Message-ID: References: <3k06ms$sfa@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 130.58.39.51 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Status: O X-Status: In article <3k06ms$sfa@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, nadiai@aol.com (NadiaI) wrote: > I would like to grow crab grass for a high traffic/dog area. Any ideas > how > I could go about this? I would recommend trying a turf-type tall fescue instead of crab grass. Turf-type tall fescues stand up to heavy traffic, can be mowed higher and less frequently than bluegrass and other lawn grasses, require a lot less fertilizer and are perennial. Crabgrass is an annual, so you would have to reseed every year. Tall fescues are naturally clump-forming grasses, but the turf-types have been bred to spread and form a uniform lawn. We use them here at the Arboretum which is a college campus, too, with great results. Turf-type tall fescues are cool season grasses, so they won't do well in the deep South ( I can't tell where you are from your posting), but do well in most other areas of the U.S. They are becoming more popular, so you shouldn't have problems locating seed. If you need tips for getting turf started, give me a yell-- Happy gardening-- Kris Benarcik The Scott Arboretum From jshumate@es.atl.sita.int Thu Mar 16 00:40:14 EST 1995 Article: 58436 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!nntp.sita.int!jshumate From: jshumate@es.atl.sita.int (Jason Shumate) Subject: Books on Passionflowers? Message-ID: Sender: jshumate@sunshine.ps.atl.sita.int (Jason Shumate) Organization: SITA Distribution: world Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 20:18:49 GMT Lines: 14 Status: O X-Status: Does anyone know of any good books about passionflowers (Passiflora species)? I am not looking for "how to grow guides" as I have several good books on growing tropical fruits that contain such information, like the Ortho book _All About Growing Citrus And Subtropical Fruit_. I am really more interested in something that specifically talks about passionflowers, perhaps with descriptions and pictures of the many species. If you know of something that is available in the United States, that would be most helpful, but I would be interested in anything on the subject. Thanks for any help you can give. -- CUL8R, | Lord Arthur: "Are all men from the future Jason Shumate | loud-mouthed braggarts?" System Administrator type guy | Ash: "Nope. Just me, baby. Just me." jshumate@es.atl.sita.int | - Army Of Darkness From BOSSLD2@uabdpo.dpo.uab.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:15 EST 1995 Article: 58437 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!darwin.sura.net!maze.dpo.uab.edu!uabdpo.dpo.uab.edu!BOSSLD2 From: BOSSLD2@uabdpo.dpo.uab.edu (Marsha Borden) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Yellow Leaves on Impatients Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 15:10:29 CST Organization: University of Alabama at Birmingham Lines: 10 Message-ID: <17360D566S86.BOSSLD2@uabdpo.dpo.uab.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: uabdpo.dpo.uab.edu Status: O X-Status: Hi, I'm Marsha and this is my first post to the group. On the subject of yellow leaves on impatiens, I have a slightly different question. Last summer I had baskets on impatiens on my front porch, where they got a couple hours of diffused morning sun. They all started turing yellow, the leaves got really small, and the stems were gnarled. I didn't have a clue as to what to do. I water when needed, fertilize lightly monthly, don't use any fungicide or insect control. Anybody have a clue as to what I did wrong. Any help would be appreciated, because I would like to try again this year. Oh, I put three plants per basket and used a really good potting medium. I used the Elfin variety of impatien. Thanks. From ssanders@umich.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:16 EST 1995 Article: 58438 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich.edu!usenet From: Susan Sanders Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wayside Gardens Date: 13 Mar 1995 21:07:30 GMT Organization: The University of Michigan Lines: 13 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k2c6i$46b@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> References: <1995Mar13.154353.11366@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil> NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.211.54.249 X-Newsreader: Nuntius Version 1.2 X-XXDate: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 21:09:28 GMT Status: O X-Status: In article <1995Mar13.154353.11366@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil> Glenn T. Welsh, welshg@rl.af.mil writes: >Prices to high! Quality too low. That's my experience. But they have great >pictures to help you through the winter! I agree. I buy from them what I can't get from another source. My experience has been that their woody plants are good quality, and the herbaceous stuff is chancier. But they do honor the guarantee when things go wrong. Of course, so do a lot of much cheaper places. But the pictures--I'll bet their catalog has gotten more people entrapped into gardening than any other single thing. -Sue Sanders From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:17 EST 1995 Article: 58439 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Variegated plants from seed? Message-ID: <1995Mar13.150106.40162@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 15:01:05 -0600 References: <3k23sn$m4u@post.its.mcw.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 13 Status: O X-Status: In article <3k23sn$m4u@post.its.mcw.edu>, Don Martinson writes: > Does anyone out there have any expertise regarding sexual propagation > of plants with variegated foliage. Do (all, some, none, any) come true > from seed? Any help appreciated. Post reply or e-mail. Some do, some don't and most seedlings vary from their parents. Plants with variegated foliage like Coleus usually carry variegation in the succeeding generations, while many other plants (esp. the ones with white-striped leaves, which are usually chimeric) don't come true from seed. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:18 EST 1995 Article: 58440 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Landscape Construction Material Message-ID: <1995Mar13.150610.40163@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 15:06:09 -0600 References: <3jsebh$3kd@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 20 Status: O X-Status: In article <3jsebh$3kd@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, sanny@aol.com (Sanny) writes: > < < <<100% post-consumer recycled soda bottles, formed into log-like shapes > < > Organic Gardening mag has it in this months issue in the article on raised > bed materials. OBEX is the brand name. About $90 for a 4x4 kit. They > like it and had a display at GardenFest last year. Also makes compost > bins. There are several companies that are producing "plastic lumber". Since it is extremely heavy stuff, it makes sense to purchase from a local supplier if at all possible. Talk to your local recycling agency or state solid waste disposal authority to see if you can locate a similar product near you. Around here, $90 for 16 or 32 linear feet of plastic 2x4 would be a little steep! Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From simonsfam@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:19 EST 1995 Article: 58441 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: simonsfam@aol.com (Simons Fam) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: squash bugs Date: 13 Mar 1995 16:02:08 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 7 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k2bsg$b40@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: simonsfam@aol.com (Simons Fam) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Does anybody know of a good organic method of getting rid of squash bugs besides hand picking? They totally wiped out my pumpkins and zucchini last year. I tried using the usual Safer products on them in addition to hand picking but I couldn't keep up with them. Thanks, Kay From garden@ahs.org Thu Mar 16 00:40:20 EST 1995 Article: 58442 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.cais.com!news From: TJ Huck Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Paw Paw tree??? Date: 13 Mar 1995 21:24:35 GMT Organization: Capital Area Internet Service info@cais.com 703-448-4470 Lines: 26 Message-ID: <3k2d6j$7aj@news.cais.com> References: <3jverm$phj@deep.rsoft.bc.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: garden.cais.com Status: O X-Status: Gordon Croft wrote: > > Anyone know anything about the Paw Paw tree? > > It is suppose to grow on the west coast of Canada (where we live) but > I know nothing of the quality of the fruit. > > Thanks in advance, > Gord > Check out the February 1995 of American Horticulturist magazine. We did a feature article on the Pawpaw tree. It's a beautiful tree, and the fruit is delicious. You might also want to contact The PawPaw Foundation at P.O. Box 23467, Washington, DC 20026 (202/484-1121). Membership is $15 annually. Our assistant editor says Pawpaws should grow well in parts of the Pacific Northwest, as long as it's not too hot or too dry. Good luck! Terri J. Huck, American Horticultural Society From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:21 EST 1995 Article: 58443 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Suggestions for vine? Date: 13 Mar 1995 21:27:04 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 32 Message-ID: <3k2db8$m4u@post.its.mcw.edu> References: <277@ckd.uucp> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: jack@ckd.uucp (jack paul) wrote: > > This is my first post! I've been enjoying your group for several > months now. Thanks to all for the wealth of information. > > I have an old concrete (at least thats what it looks like) > springhouse that I would like to cover with a vine. > Jack Paul > Hereford, Pa. USA > jack%ckd@kd3bj.ampr.orgt I think you'll have problems with trumpet vine since they really do best in full sun. However, some other suggestions: Any of various vine honeysuckle (except, perhaps, Lonicera japonica) Lonicera periclymenum (spelling?) - wonderful fragerance Lonicera semperveriens - no fragrance, but bright yellows/reds Akebia quinquifolia - Five-leafed akebia - maroon flowers, unusual pod-like fruit. Ampelopsis brevipedunculata "Elegans" - inconspicuous flower, but interesting variegated leaf and blue porcelain like berries in fall, hence the name Porcelain vine. Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu "Existing order thrives upon ignorance and lies. Objective truth and individual reason are feared above all." From bebb@ferndown.ate.slb.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:22 EST 1995 Article: 58444 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!ub!csn!news.sinet.slb.com!news.london.sinet.slb.com!mac_150.ferndown.ate.slb.com!user From: bebb@ferndown.ate.slb.com (Malcolm Bebb) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Guinea Pig poo as fertilizer? Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 16:01:39 +0000 Organization: Schlumberger Technologies ATE Lines: 21 Message-ID: References: <3k0lbq$gro@potogold.rmii.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac_150.ferndown.ate.slb.com Status: O X-Status: In article <3k0lbq$gro@potogold.rmii.com>, Steve Zerbe wrote: > Someone earlier was discussing rabbit manure as compost. My > situation is that we have guinea pigs (5) that I would like to > move outdoors on warm days in my yard. I have a 4x4 box with no > bottom and a piece of plywood that partially covers the top. So > they are free to run around the box and eat grass during the day. > My question is this: Is their manure going to be okay for the > grass in my yard? They are being fed a pellet mixture of soybean > meal, alfalfa meal and various other incredients mixed with crushed > corn. I also give them a _little_ lettuce from time to time. > I also intend to move the box a few inches every day so it won't > make permanent dents in what little lawn I have! You should definitely move the run - the guinea pigs will eat the grass down to the roots if you don't. If you don't let the droppings build up in any one area, you should be OK. Guinea pig grazing hasn't obviously harmed my (what passes for a) lawn. Malcolm bebb@ferndown.ate.slb.com (Usual disclaimers apply) Tech Pubs bebb@embetech.demon.co.uk From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:23 EST 1995 Article: 58445 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help with VERMI-composting Message-ID: <1995Mar13.152841.40164@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 15:28:41 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 41 Status: O X-Status: In article , ba600@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Mike Kenzie) writes: > Well it's ben 3 months since the last fiasco when I tried to harvest the > compost, I need some advise on how to get the compot out from the worms. > The last time I noticed a large number of eggs, and young worms in the > compost so I put it aside to let them hatch and grow, now I have 2 containers. > > How can I get the worms out of the compost? > > How long does it take for the eggs to hatch? > > Is there an easy way to get the uncomposted material out of the finished > product? I've not tried vermicomposting (the outdoor method works well for me!), but I suspect that screening the compost will do most of what you want. Get some hardware cloth and nail it to a wooden frame. Suspend the frame from above on chains or ropes, and add compost. Shake well. Use what falls out and return the rest for further decomposition. You probably have enough worm eggs etc. in the remains of your pile to recolonize the worm box. (Composting is sort of like making sourdough bread... you always want to hang on to some starter for the next batch!). Lignified (woody, "leathery" materials) will take longer to decompose than non-woody materials. > > Can it be put back it with the worms for a second try? > > Are there some things that even the worms won't eat? > They seem to have trouble with the boston fern "roots" and some plant leaves. > > Can the compost be used directly on my house plants? Personally, I wouldn't. Worms in the roots of houseplants usually cause trouble. It's different outside.. but the environment in a pot isn't exactly natural. Compost tea or steamed compost might be a better choice. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From mason@cg-atla.UUCP Thu Mar 16 00:40:25 EST 1995 Article: 58446 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!noc.near.net!ray.com!news.ray.com!news.ed.ray.com!swlnews.msd.ray.com!cg-atla!mason From: mason@cg-atla.UUCP (Bob Mason) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: last frost date for Boston? Message-ID: <10773@cg-atla.UUCP> Date: 13 Mar 95 17:56:31 GMT References: Reply-To: mason@cg-atla.UUCP (Bob Mason) Organization: Agfa Compugraphic Division Lines: 18 Status: O X-Status: In article annie@shore.net (Shauna Rabinowitz) writes: >In article , >anthoncb@cleo.bc.edu (Cara Anthony) wrote: > >> I just moved to Boston and all my seed packets say things like "Start >> indoors 3 weeks before last frost." When is the accepted date for last >> frost in this area? Is this information usually available in an almanac The general date for tender plants (tomatoes, peppers) is May 30. If your right on the coast, it may be possible to push it some. If you can cover your plantings, something you probably will want to do in Sept. anyway, you can start in early May. Don't forget '78 with 8" of snow on May 8-9! Sad to see those peas pushing up through all that snow. BTW, peas are planted by April 19. From breland@mcc.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:26 EST 1995 Article: 58447 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!milano!news From: breland@mcc.com (Mark A. Breland) Subject: Re: Compost piles Message-ID: Sender: news@mcc.com Reply-To: breland@mcc.com Organization: MCC References: Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 19:16:41 GMT Lines: 23 Status: O X-Status: In article , Jeff Stier writes: >My compost pile cooled off over the winter...plenty of >carbon material.......but now what. >You mentioned yeast- how does that help? Because its alive? >I hear hops are good.... >What else can I use? Produce/salad clippings? >What else is high in nitrogen and available now.... >I can't wait for grass clippings! Weeds, weeds, weeds...(if you got 'em yet) They work great for me, high in nitro, high in moisture, lots of 'em, and the heat will get high enough to kill the seeds. Better yet, pick them *before* they go to seed... -- Mark A. Breland -- Microelectronics and Computer Technology Corporation (MCC) Research Division 3500 West Balcones Center Drive | voice: (512) 338-3509 Austin, Texas 78759-6509 USA NB#51 | FAX: (512) 338-3900 From dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU Thu Mar 16 00:40:27 EST 1995 Article: 58448 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!reuter.cse.ogi.edu!hp-cv!hp-pcd!news1.boi.hp.com!hpax!hpscit.sc.hp.com!news.dtc.hp.com!canyon.sr.hp.com!col.hp.com!sony!nntp-sc.barrnet.net!tiptoe.fhda.edu!unix.sri.com!news.Stanford.EDU!morrow.stanford.edu!pangea.Stanford.EDU!dawn From: dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: indoor fluorescent lighting Date: 13 Mar 1995 19:12:52 GMT Organization: Stanford Univ. Earth Sciences Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k25fk$bbi@morrow.stanford.edu> References: <3jvf8k$8kl@morrow.stanford.edu> <3k1tne$5bn@dsk92.itg.ti.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pangea.stanford.edu Status: O X-Status: In article <3k1tne$5bn@dsk92.itg.ti.com> richc@phantom.pac.sc.ti.com (Richard Campbell) writes: > >In article <3jvf8k$8kl@morrow.stanford.edu>, dawn@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Dawn Burgess) writes: >|> the lights only an inch or two from the leaves. If your plants are 6" from >|> the lights, they are getting only 1/3 as much light as they would if >|> they were 2" from the lights. Fluorescent lights aren't hot, so don't >|> be afraid to really get 'em close. >|> > > I don't disagree with any of this except for the fact that plants at 6" >from the lights get only 1/3 as much light as plants at 2". They >actually get much less than 1/3, I believe that they would get 1/9 as >much light. Doubling the distance from the light source quarters the >amount of light received. True, if the lights were a point source. I think they are closer to a line source, though, which I think should go as 1/r, not the inverse square. I could be wrong, though, since someone else mentioned the effect of the reflective hood. But that should decrease the distance effect, not increase it. Dang, what ever happened to the spherical cows of classical mechanics?! :) Dawn From nightjar@pavilion.co.uk Thu Mar 16 00:40:28 EST 1995 Article: 58449 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!news.pavilion.co.uk!usenet From: nightjar@pavilion.co.uk (nightjar) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: clay soil + compost = adobe ??? Date: 13 Mar 1995 22:01:50 GMT Organization: None Lines: 47 Message-ID: <3k2fce$4ek@fitzherbert.pavilion.co.uk> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: line00.kemp-du.pavilion.co.uk X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.1 Status: O X-Status: In article , brewster@zuma.icsl.ucla.edu (Anthony Brewster) says: > >I recently added 1 part compost/mulch to 8 parts low organic clay soil. A week >after thoroughly mixing the soil + a little gypsum, 2-3 inches of rain fell >and turned the soil into a thick paste which lost a lot of volume and is >now drying into a hard adobe like mass. In a sense, the soil now seems >more compacted than before the organic material was added and is going to >need a lot of fluffing up to be suitable for planting. > >The question I have is did I not add enough compost(Nurseryman's brand, forest >products), or are some materials better than others at loosening up clay soils? >Also, does the loosening effect take time to happen, ie does the organic >matter have to decompose some before it really has an effect? How many more >parts of organic matter should be added, if any? BTW, I also turned over a >cover crop of rapeseed, rye and hairy vetch, and added about 0.5 parts kitchen >scraps. > >Thanks..Anthony > > > Adding organic matter is not always the answer. On poorly drained soils it actually decreases fertility - turning the soil anaerobic and sour. The way to check drainage is to dig a hole about 2 feet deep when the soil is moist. Fill the hole with water and if most of it is still there next day you should think seriously about sub-soil drains. If you have used un-composted organics, they will need to decompose before they have the best effect. You will also need to add Nitrogen fertiliser while they are doing so as they absorb Nitrogen while rotting. Well composted organic material, although dearer, has an immediate effect. In the UK clay soils respond best to digging over in Autumn and letting the frost get at them. I somehow doubt that is much use in L.A. Unless you want to grow lime-hating plants, the next best thing is to put on lots of lime. This causes the soil to flocculate, i.e. stick together in small clusters, rather than large clods, so it becomes more manageable. Alginates, from seaweed can have the same effect. The ultimate solution for clay soil is to add an equal quantity of sharp sand and mix well. Unfortunately, except for the smallest gardens, this is not often a practical method. The ideal soil is about 50% sand, 25% silt, 20% clay and 5% organics. Happy digging Colin Bignell From jacksonj@eon.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:29 EST 1995 Article: 58450 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!psinntp!corp!jacksonj From: jacksonj@eon.com (Jacquelyn Jackson) Subject: Help - White fuzzy bugs! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 20:54:20 GMT Organization: eon Keywords: bugs plants Lines: 33 Status: O X-Status: Last year, I bought a condo with a solarium (technically, it is a greenhouse because it has single pane glass, roof, and side vents) so that I could have the garden I have always wanted and still stay in the city. Last summer, I noticed small white fuzzy bugs on several of my tomato plants. I tried dish soap, and then Safer Soap for garden veggies with no success. The bugs spread to every plant (basil, rosemary, lavender, various flowering plants, bay, eucalyptus, schefalaras (sp?) pony tail palms, peppers, thyme, catnip, mint, and more) except marjoram and chives. I lost nearly everything. What are they and how do I get rid of them without contaminating my edible plants with chemicals? The bugs seemed to slow down over the winter, but I am still picking them off from time to time. My bay tree (one of the few I didn't lose) seems to still get them as well as my palms. I did notice over the winter that these bugs leave a "sticky" residue on the plants and I found several fuzzy cocoons over the winter (which I immediately destroyed). I also noticed that I seem to have an influx of small red and black striped bugs (look kinda like beetles, and they hang out where it is sunny). I have sprayed my greenhouse and killed literally thousands of these bugs. Are they related? If not, do I have another potential nightmare on my hands? I would appreciate any help on this as I would like to start my seedlings within the next two weeks. Jacq jacksonj@eon.com From bpine@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:30 EST 1995 Article: 58451 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!waldorf.csc.calpoly.edu!isnews.calpoly.edu!tuba.aix.calpoly.edu!bpine From: bpine@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu (Brian Keith Pine (Piner)) Newsgroups: news.groups,misc.consumers,misc.rural,rec.gardens Subject: Re: new group: alt.living.tightwad Date: 13 Mar 1995 21:59:53 GMT Organization: California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo Lines: 30 Message-ID: <3k2f8p$4sa@isnews.calpoly.edu> References: <3jj9vs$91p@isnews.calpoly.edu> <3jneos$293@crl4.crl.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: tuba.aix.calpoly.edu NNTP-Posting-User: bpine X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:114372 misc.consumers:87914 misc.rural:15933 rec.gardens:58451 Status: O X-Status: S. Rennacker (slr@crl.com) wrote: : As I approach retirement with modest assets, I have been considering a : newgroup to help participants learn from each other how and where to get : the most for their money with a special focus on (but not limited to) health : care, cost of living, etc. This seems related to "tightwad" living, so : long as the primary focus is on getting the most for one's money rather : than on self-sufficiency through more work and/or recycling, etc. Well, a frugal newsgroup would definitely include health care, cost of living, and other things you are interested in since these all factor into your overall budget and need to be minimized. I would say that the whole point of a frugal newsgroup is getting the most for your money, whether this involves buying things at a store inexpensively, a garage sale, or reusing things you already have. But even getting the best deals buying new at a store requires extra work. It would still include things on being more self-sufficient and recycling things. Of course a lot of people might not have the time or patience to do things like grow a garden or do their own canning. But I don't think these will be a big part of the group, especially because I would expect a lot of discussion on these topics that don't address frugality to end up in rec.gardens and rec.food.preserving. But you are rarely going to be interested in everything discussed in one particular group. The bottom line is that I think you will find that the eventual frugal newsgroup to be what you are looking for. -Brian From cuzz@midway.uchicago.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:31 EST 1995 Article: 58452 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uchinews!ellis!cuzz From: cuzz@ellis.uchicago.edu (Laura Cuzzillo) Subject: compost tumbler? X-Nntp-Posting-Host: midway.uchicago.edu Message-ID: Sender: news@midway.uchicago.edu (News Administrator) Reply-To: cuzz@midway.uchicago.edu Organization: The University of Chicago Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 22:01:56 GMT Lines: 13 Status: O X-Status: I received some sales material for a drum like composter, and I'm wondering if anyone out there has any experience with this device. You turn the "heap" by rotating the drum with a crank, so you don't need the space you do with other compact compost systems. It sounds like a great idea, but it seems a little pricey at $300 for the small model. If you have one, or know someone who does, I'd love to know how you like it. Is it worth the $$?? Laura Cuzzillo cuzz@midway.uchicago.edu From diveanddig@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:32 EST 1995 Article: 58453 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: diveanddig@aol.com (Diveanddig) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Clemantis Date: 13 Mar 1995 22:03:59 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 24 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k312v$gu8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3k0p7c$3eh@eri.erinet.com> Reply-To: diveanddig@aol.com (Diveanddig) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Here is a post I made on AOL last month concerning clematis pruning. Jackmanii is a group three Clematis and should be pruned to just above the first pair of strong buds - about 6 to 12 inches from the ground every winter. They bloom on new growth and are late blooming. These are vigorous vines and can add new growth of up to one inch a day and will grow higher and thicker than the previous growth before blooming - it might seem drastic but trust me and DO IT! Group three should be pruned early at the end of January to the first half of Feb (zone 6). Nellie Moser is a group two Clematis and will bloom early on buds forming close to last years growth so only the deadwood should be pruned on established vines after the buds swell enough to differentiate between deadwood and live vine. Newly planted group two vines should be pruned severely to 12 inches high the first Feb., 40 inches the second Feb. and deadwood thereafter. This will give you vines with multiple main shoots from the ground and a well shaped plant that is not top heavy. Deadwood pruning is done for esthetic purposes only. February is a good time to fertilize Clematis with a slow release fertilizer and they like neutral to basic PH soil so, if needed, apply lime in Feb. also. Bill Bird zone 6 NY From conrad@richters.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:34 EST 1995 Article: 58454 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.tamu.edu!news.utdallas.edu!corpgate!bcarh189.bnr.ca!nott!torn!uunet.ca!uunet.ca!richtr!conrad From: conrad@richters.com (Conrad Richter) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: sweet cicely Message-ID: Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 07:42:25 EST References: <3jsg17$11r0@bigblue.oit.unc.edu> Distribution: world Organization: Richters Herbs Lines: 13 Status: O X-Status: bartj@med.unc.edu (John W Bartlett) writes: > I am thinking of putting in some sweet cicely (myrrh) in my herb garden. > A book I have says it does best in cool northern weather.Does anyone in > Zone 7 have any success with this herb? Zone 7 should be fine. Conrad Richter RICHTERS HERBS | Info: info@richters.com Goodwood, ON L0C 1A0, Canada | Catalog Requests: catalog@richters.com Tel +1-905-640-6677 Fax 640-6641 | What's New for '95: new@richters.com From jstier@yu1.yu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:35 EST 1995 Article: 58455 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!ctc.com!news.cs.umb.edu!hsdndev!oitnews.harvard.edu!cmcl2!thecourier.cims.nyu.edu!yu1.yu.edu!jstier From: Jeff Stier Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: last frost date for Boston? Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 23:13:03 -0500 Organization: Courant Institute of Mathematical Sciences Lines: 13 Message-ID: References: <3jvqvu$pf2@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: dopey.cs.nyu.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In-Reply-To: <3jvqvu$pf2@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Status: O X-Status: > I live on the Cape and I don't plant tender things out until Memorial Day. Do you know when the last frost is in the NYC area? Thanks JEFF ****************************************************************************** Jeff Stier jstier@yu1.yu.edu !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! From aramirez@agsm.ucla.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:36 EST 1995 Article: 58456 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!news.mathworks.com!uunet!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!library.ucla.edu!news.agsm.ucla.edu!news.agsm.ucla.edu!not-for-mail From: aramirez@agsm.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) Newsgroups: news.config,news.groups,misc.consumers,misc.rural,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Propose new group: alt.living.tightwad Date: 13 Mar 1995 14:08:22 -0800 Organization: The Anderson School at UCLA Lines: 4 Message-ID: <3k2fom$l9h@risc.agsm.ucla.edu> References: <3jj9vs$91p@isnews.calpoly.edu> <3jl41q$9se@shore.shore.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: risc.agsm.ucla.edu X-Newsreader: NN version 6.5.0 #3 (NOV) Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.config:563 news.groups:114378 misc.consumers:87923 misc.rural:15934 rec.gardens:58456 Status: O X-Status: I love this idea. Maybe there could also be an alt.living.tightward.support for those of us who have problems with being and staying frugal From don@tiller.eris.org Thu Mar 16 00:40:37 EST 1995 Article: 58457 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!olivea!hal.COM!nntp-sc.barrnet.net!news.fujitsu.com!amdahl.com!tiller.eris.org!don From: don@tiller.eris.org (Don R. Stephens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Can't plant!!??? Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 15:31:47 PST Message-ID: <01062030.ok5f2s@tiller.eris.org> Reply-To: don@tiller.eris.org (Don R. Stephens) X-Mailer: uAccess - Macintosh Release: 1.6v2 Lines: 16 Status: O X-Status: Hi folks, I am in the South San Fransico Bay Area. temperature usually warm (?zone 15?). My problem is that I usually start my seeds in February in a wee little hot house. I did so this year. The seeds have sprouted and growing superbly well. the tomatoes are up about 3 inches, the beans 8 or 10 inches, lettuce up maybe 5 inches, so far so good. HOWEVER, I have a problem; I haven't been able to rototill the ground and so the beds aren't made, the drip system isn't in!!!!, all because of the continuous rains. What are your recommendations, junk everything and start all over?, hold my seedlings as long as possible and maybe - feed them????. Help gratefully accepted. Don ------------------------------------- Don R. Stephens don@tiller.eris.org From 72674.2043@CompuServe.COM Thu Mar 16 00:40:39 EST 1995 Article: 58459 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!lionel.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news From: Bob Bland <72674.2043@CompuServe.COM> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: ?Water Lilies in Vermont Date: 14 Mar 1995 03:26:49 GMT Organization: via CompuServe Information Service Lines: 11 Message-ID: <3k32dp$s62$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com> Status: O X-Status: I have a boggy area in front of my house in which I would like to plant some flowering plants. This area has an apparently constant slow flow of water throughout the year, even in winter, if this mild one just passing is an indicator. There is no surface water, except where I have dug trenches and there it fluctuates by about 3" but never goes dry. The area gets full sun for the most part. I am thinking of water lilies in some of the shallow ponds (6-12") I am making and would like to share the experience of others in northern (zone 4a) climates. Also, are there other flowering bog plants or ones with interesting foliage that might do well here. From fs708@cleveland.Freenet.Edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:40 EST 1995 Article: 58460 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!fs708 From: fs708@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Debra Roby) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Favorite Garden Tools Date: 14 Mar 1995 12:14:28 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 12 Message-ID: <3k41b4$1a6@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: <3jnu3p$deq@wizard.uark.edu> Reply-To: fs708@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Debra Roby) NNTP-Posting-Host: piglet.ins.cwru.edu Status: O X-Status: My favorite gardening tool? Without a doubt it is my gardener's mattock. Half-sized, it is light and easy for me to use (bad shoulder and all). It has a pick end and a blade end. I planted 100 daffodils in an afternoon with this tool right after I bought it. work nice holes for planting shrubs, dig rocks out of the lawn, and never have to worry about someone sneaking up and hurting me. {:D} My DH bought this for me a s an anniversary present. I love this tool From rquag@etsd.ml.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:42 EST 1995 Article: 58461 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!bcm!pendragon!fullfeed!genesis.npr.legent.com!psinntp!psinntp!psinntp!commpost!necrosis!rquag From: rquag@etsd.ml.com (Robert Quagliata) Subject: Re: Organically removing slugs? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@tigadmin.ml.com (News Account) Reply-To: rquag@etsd.ml.com Organization: Merill Lynch References: <3j26mh$gs9@mimsy.cs.umd.edu> Date: Mon, 6 Mar 1995 19:30:28 GMT Lines: 4 Status: O X-Status: I was watching one of the home shows on cable and they say: put beer in a shallow pan, the slugs love beer, and so they drown. From 72674.2043@CompuServe.COM Thu Mar 16 00:40:44 EST 1995 Article: 58462 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!lionel.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.production.compuserve.com!news From: Bob Bland <72674.2043@CompuServe.COM> Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: witch hazel bloom time - update Date: 14 Mar 1995 03:37:11 GMT Organization: via CompuServe Information Service Lines: 5 Message-ID: <3k3317$s62$2@mhade.production.compuserve.com> References: <3jvkoc$o1v@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Status: O X-Status: There are both fall and spring (late winter) blooming witch hazels. In Boston, the springs ones usually bloom in early March, but actually started this year in our false spring back in January. Now they are blooming fully, but not as brightly as in years past. From waltshaf@abare.gov.au Thu Mar 16 00:40:45 EST 1995 Article: 58463 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!munnari.oz.au!newshost.anu.edu.au!newshost.abare.gov.au!usenet From: Walter Shafron Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Germinating Olive Seeds Date: 14 Mar 1995 03:46:20 GMT Organization: ABARE Lines: 9 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k33ic$3a9@falcon.abare.gov.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: wshafron.abare.gov.au X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.2 X-XXDate: Tue, 14 Mar 95 13:44:05 GMT Status: O X-Status: I have recently read in a book on propagation that olive trees are easy to grow by germinating the seed and then grafting onto a rootstock. I was wondering if there are any tricks in the germination stage. It doesnt strike me that olive seeds would be easy to start. Has anyone done this, and is the grafting onto rootstock only to expedite the development of the tree that would otherwise be painstakingly slow. Thanks Walter Shafron From allyn@u.washington.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:46 EST 1995 Article: 58464 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!nntp.cac.washington.edu!psaltery.chem.washington.edu!user From: allyn@u.washington.edu (Allyn Weaks) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: low pH soil ... resistant to lime? Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 19:52:34 -0800 Organization: University of Washington Lines: 66 Message-ID: References: <3k2bci$kji@nntp2.u.washington.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: psaltery.chem.washington.edu X-Newsreader: Value-Added NewsWatcher 2.0b24.0+ Status: O X-Status: In article <3k2bci$kji@nntp2.u.washington.edu>, fpm@u.washington.edu (Frank Miles) wrote: > We have tested our soil for about 5 years now (Sudbury kit), only to > find a persistent low pH: initially about 4.5, it has crept up to > under 5.5. This is despite adding over 100 lb of dolomitic lime each > year to our 800 ft^2 of garden soil (this would seem to be a pretty > high concentration). > > What might be the problem? > - the lime might be leached out in each winter's rain (we're > in Seattle). > - lime doesn't change pH as well as you might think (tell me > more). > - the Sudbury kit is inaccurate > - there's something in the soil that persists in decreasing the > ph. (perhaps our compost pile? the breakdown > of the sod pile, what used to be the top layer > of our garden plot?) > > Has anyone had a similar experience? We know that most garden plants > really don't like this low a pH (hard for the roots to absorb the right > things when there's such an exchange occurring just due to pH). Most Pacific Northwest soils have little clay, and leaching of all nutrients is fairly quick, with the result that they are naturally infertile(*) and low pH. You might reduce the leaching somewhat by increasing the organic content a lot (if you haven't already) to buffer any pH swings. A good healthy soil with plenty of decomposers (fungi, insects, worms, bacteria, even (gasp!) slugs) and a heavy mulch layer to give them plenty to work with is even more important here than back east to keep the nutrient cycle going. Some cover crops (buckwheat?) do better than others at grabbing calcium and other pH raising ions to prevent them vanishing over winter. Dandelions and other deeply taprooted plants are good at bringing up calcium and other goodies from the subsoil if said goodies haven't washed away altogether, so don't poison them - pull them up and utilize their little corpses! And certainly grow a winter cover crop or keep a deep mulch layer rather than let the soil be bare. Mulch is available free from tree trimming companies, though they may bring you ground up conifers, which won't help raise your pH :-) [(*) One of several reasons to disbelieve the logging companies when they claim that they can continuously grow trees here on a 50 year cycle, slash burning in between. The nutrient cycle can't support it.] To minimize toil and trouble, you could switch to native plants for as much as possible of your yard, and only try to keep a small area at a higher pH for exotics and veggies (though my lettuces and beans and such did just fine last year in 5.5). The book by Kruckeberg, _Gardening with Native Plants of the PNW_ is a good place to start looking into the lovely native possibilities - not only a wide range of flowering shrubs (many with tasty berries for you and the birds) and ground covers and ferns, but wonderful lilies and irises and lots of perennials. If you choose things that are happy in the local dry forest and clearing areas, you get the added bonus of not having to water more than once or twice during the summer once they become established. My pH is at about 5.0 to 5.5, and I need to reduce it somewhat to make life easy for huckleberries and to get rid of that nasty grass I've got all over the place :-) My moss is coming along nicely in the back yard, and I'll probably put in wild strawberry and kinnikinnik as ground cover in the front, which faces south and gets a fair amount of sun in season... -- Allyn Weaks allyn@u.washington.edu From fs708@cleveland.Freenet.Edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:47 EST 1995 Article: 58465 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!cleveland.Freenet.Edu!fs708 From: fs708@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Debra Roby) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HGTV Date: 14 Mar 1995 12:56:06 GMT Organization: Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland, OH (USA) Lines: 32 Message-ID: <3k43p6$40p@usenet.INS.CWRU.Edu> References: Reply-To: fs708@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Debra Roby) NNTP-Posting-Host: piglet.ins.cwru.edu Status: O X-Status: In a previous article, mhs@bstorey.Gwinnett.COM (Storeybrook Farms) says: >mfrost@primenet.com (Martha Frost) writes: >> >> >I am curious how many of you folks are getting the new HGTV ( Home and >> >Garden Network) through your local cable systems. I think it is great Won't subscribe to cable. But I would love to get some of the programs. HGTV sounds like a winner to me. >> >Meredith >> I am not sure if we get that program in Southern California. Our PBS station >> has kind of lost my gardening attention. For one thing, it's >> disappointing in the tendency of some garden shows to wander off to exotic >> lands with huge estates, leaving us at home with our mundane gardens. I'd be >> interested in a more backyard kind of approach. >> Regards, Martha >> mfrost@primenet.com > >I couldn't agree more! Give us more old fashion remedies >and malladies. Storeybrook Farms > Thank you both!! I am beginning to believe that Victory Garden is R. Morash's reason to take exotic vacations with his wife and write it off as "doing business." Was REALLY upset that during last season's summer shows, which are supposed to be all new material, there were repeated segments from the winter shows (shown each winter for about 4 years). Only about 1/2 of each show last season was new. Wish I could get a GOOD gardening shows on our local PBS station, but they don't listen to me. (And I have, therefore, decided not to remain a member for them). From rdkeyser@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:49 EST 1995 Article: 58466 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: rdkeyser@ix.netcom.com (Roger Keyser) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Mexican Heather -- Perennial or Annual? Date: 14 Mar 1995 04:11:56 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 13 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k352c$a4b@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-atl9-04.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Does anyone know whether Mexican Heather is a perennial or an annual? Sorry, I don't know the horticultural name, just have the common name. We have a friend who doesn't want to wait to find out if it will come back this Spring. I guess he wants to plant in the space now, if it's an annual. Thanks in advance for any advice. -- Roger Keyser_____________________________________________________________ Interactive --------------> rdkeyser@ix.netcom.com Engineering <-------------- From jbachman@pipeline.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:50 EST 1995 Article: 58468 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!pipex!uunet!news.pipeline.com!not-for-mail From: jbachman@pipeline.com (John Bachman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Where to get trees to plant? Date: 14 Mar 1995 08:02:03 -0500 Organization: The Pipeline Lines: 10 Message-ID: <3k444b$op6@pipe3.pipeline.com> References: <3k21om$10q0@saturn.caps.maine.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: pipe3.pipeline.com Status: O X-Status: In rec.gardens markford@saturn.caps.maine.edu (Mark H. Ford) said: >Where can I buy "Christmas tree" seedlings? > >-mark >markford@saturn.caps.maine.edu > -- John Bachman From jbachman@pipeline.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:51 EST 1995 Article: 58469 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!news.pipeline.com!not-for-mail From: jbachman@pipeline.com (John Bachman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Where to get trees to plant? Date: 14 Mar 1995 08:10:52 -0500 Organization: The Pipeline Lines: 16 Message-ID: <3k44ks$pfg@pipe3.pipeline.com> References: <3k21om$10q0@saturn.caps.maine.edu><3k444b$op6@pipe3.pipeline.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pipe3.pipeline.com Status: O X-Status: In rec.gardens jbachman@pipeline.com (John Bachman) said: >In rec.gardens markford@saturn.caps.maine.edu (Mark H. Ford) said: > >>Where can I buy "Christmas tree" seedlings? >> >>-mark >>markford@saturn.caps.maine.edu >> >- I get mine from the New Hampshire Division of Forests & Lands, 603-271-3456. A Maine source is Fedco POBox 520, Waterville, ME 04903. I haven't bought christmas trees from Fedco but I have bought fruit trees and veg. seeds - all with good luck. Nice people too.-- John Bachman From nmates@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:52 EST 1995 Article: 58470 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: nmates@aol.com (NMATES) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Rookie needs help Date: 13 Mar 1995 23:09:31 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 9 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k34tr$ibe@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: nmates@aol.com (NMATES) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I am wanting to start a garden this year. I live in the Houston, Texas area and I am not sure what would grow best in this area. I was thinking of carrots, potatoes, broccoli, pole beans, and tomatoes. Where can I go for accurate information about growing a garden (organic if possible) in the Houston, TX area. Thanks From carter@unb.ca Thu Mar 16 00:40:54 EST 1995 Article: 58471 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!news.unb.ca!unb.ca!carter From: carter@unb.ca (Mike Carter) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Crows in the garbage Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 10:36:20 Organization: University of New Brunswick Lines: 12 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 131.202.12.50 X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] Status: O X-Status: Up to last week I was sure that dogs were tearing apart my garbage bags shortly after I put them out at the end of my driveway. Last week I discovered it is crows. They make a real mess. Dogs come by and leave their tracks but are not to blame. I do not really want to buy traditional garbage cans, as they would have to sit at the end of the driveway all day, and a traditional garbage bin made out of plywood would seem too unsitely for our very clean neighbourhood. Does anyone have any ideas? MFC From jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org Thu Mar 16 00:40:55 EST 1995 Article: 58472 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!bardeen.physics.csbsju.edu!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: SHOULD I BUY WORMS?˙˙˙˙˙˙ From: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Message-ID: <36.11734.2599@granite.mn.org> Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 00:34:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Connection St. Cloud MN 612-654-8372 Lines: 55 Status: O X-Status: PS> Mary Spencer (mspencer@nando.net) wrote: : Well, should I buy worms? PS> I've seen some in my soil, but for what they do : it seems that more PS> would help out. DO I naturally have as many worms as : my organic PS> matter can carry, or would buying more help? Peg Seremjian replies: PS> The soil I had experience with was a heavy clay soil with almost no PS> earthworms. I amended it with *lots* of organic matter (8-10" tilled PS> in in the fall, plus organic mulch all season) and the earthworms PS> came in droves. I have no idea how they know its there, but there PS> were 50-100 every spadeful compared to almost none where I had made PS> no efforts toward soil improvement. PS> If Jim McNelly reads this, perhaps he'll add more, particularly on PS> the number of worms your soil can support. I got my wormbox after PS> reading his posts on vermicomposting on Prodigy a few years back. He PS> knows his worms, thats for sure! :) You betcha! It makes little sense to buy garden worms to add to topsoil. The worm carrying capacity of a soil is directly proportional to the available feed, plus moisture and temperature. If you feed the soil, the worms will come. Earthworms do not make a poor soil good; they only make a good soil better. The number of worms per acre in 7% organic matter soil such as prairies or deciduous forest is about 900 lbs. At approximately 300 adult lumbricus terrestris (nightcrawlers) to the pound, that is around 270,000 worms. At approximately 44,000 square feet to the acre, that is a minimum of six worms per square foot. If your soil is depleted, the number of worms drops proportionally. Poor soils can have as few as one worm per four square feet. If you use vermicides such as certain pesticides, you may have killed most of the worms off. Adding organic matter such as compost and mulch will immediately trigger the worms amazing reproductive skills and build up the population within a year or two. I have seen super composted soils with as many as 25 worms per square foot. It may not be a sustainable population, but it is fun while it lasts! Mr Compost~~~ Jim~ McNelly jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org * RM 1.3 02460 * Sure, when... OINK FLAP OINK FLAP... Well I'll be damned! ------------------============<>=============----------------- Granite City Connection (612) 654-8372 28.8K 3 Lines Email: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) ------------------============<>=============----------------- From jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org Thu Mar 16 00:40:56 EST 1995 Article: 58473 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!bardeen.physics.csbsju.edu!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: COMPOST PROBLEMS From: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Message-ID: <36.11720.2599@granite.mn.org> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 18:55:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Connection St. Cloud MN 612-654-8372 Lines: 48 Status: O X-Status: Jen Meyer replies: References: <9503090218021483@southwest.org> JM> if there isn't enough air, and 3' x 3' might be too deep one way or JM> another. You can put a stick or pole down the center of the pile and JM> remove it leaving an open channel for air to enter -- this might JM> help. Hi Jen, You do well to think about aerating via poking the pile, but air does not go "down" a chimney to where the warm area is. Heated air rises, so poking a pile is to enable the air to permeate the pile through a grate at the base. If there is no pathway for air to enter from the base of the bin, there is little point in poking a pile. JM> permits air to be throughout the compost. I've introduced earthworms JM> to my compost as well, and last time I checked they were getting JM> *really* fat. If a composting pile is active and hot, adding earthworms is the surest way to get cooked earthworms. Make sure the pile is cool and passive before ever adding worms. Adding garden worms may help a bit, but they tend to burrow beneath the pile, coming up to feed. If you move the pile, the worms underneath may starve. Redworms are the species to add to a compost pile for curing. They are rarely available in the yard since they require moist rich organic matter that does not freeze solid. They do not live in mineral soils as do their garden worm cousins. Redworms are best purchased from redworm growers. Once the redworms take over a composting pile, they reproduce rapidly and can cure the whole mass in a matter of weeks. I think that they are the greatest! Mr Compost~~~ Jim~ McNelly jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org * RM 1.3 02460 * Sometimes spiritual work involves a hoe and earthworms. ------------------============<>=============----------------- Granite City Connection (612) 654-8372 28.8K 3 Lines Email: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) ------------------============<>=============----------------- From sfo@bu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:40:57 EST 1995 Article: 58474 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.kei.com!news.byu.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!world!news.bu.edu!sfo From: sfo@bu.edu (Samme Orwig) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: One more Clematis question Date: 14 Mar 1995 13:42:10 GMT Organization: Boston University Lines: 32 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k46fi$has@news.bu.edu> References: <3k3cf7$cvi@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: acs4.bu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Status: O X-Status: I had 2 Belle of Woking vines planted side by side on trellises. One grew and the other became covered with the black wilt. Last week they were both setting buds, but I will move the weaker one in May and see if it helps. NB: One senses clematis don't like to be near laundry/dryer vents. ANOTHER CLEMATIS QUESTION: Is Barbara Jackman a group 1, 2 or 3? Will it tolerate some shade cover? Thanks /samme ELIZABETH GEPPERT (rosepark@ix.netcom.com) wrote: : Last year during an unusually hot spell three of my favorite clematis vines wilted : and died to the ground. I was heartbroken. Since then I have read up on Clematis : Wilt. The experts seem to blame an evil microorganism. I am not altogether : convinced though. In my yard I have about twelve clematis vines and the only ones : that wilted were trellised against a south facing brick wall. Could it have been : the heat of the bricks? Those three vines have come up from the roots and are : starting to grow now. Should I move them? Is now a good time? Is there a way : to prevent this from happening again? : > From azureus@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:40:58 EST 1995 Article: 58475 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!newshost.marcam.com!uunet!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: azureus@aol.com (Azureus) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Variegated plants from seed? Date: 14 Mar 1995 08:59:24 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 31 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k47fs$js@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <1995Mar13.150106.40162@cobra.uni.edu> Reply-To: azureus@aol.com (Azureus) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: In article <3k23sn$m4u@post.its.mcw.edu>, Don Martinson writes: >> Does anyone out there have any expertise regarding sexual propagation >> of plants with variegated foliage. Do (all, some, none, any) come true >> from seed? Any help appreciated. Post reply or e-mail. Kay Klier wrote: >succeeding generations, while many other plants (esp. the ones with >white-striped leaves, which are usually chimeric) don't come true >from seed. >Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu For chimeras, I've noticed that if the seed pod shows any variegation at all, the seeds inside will almost always produce more chimeras. April Path: newsbf01.news.aol.com!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsjunkie.ans.net!howland.res ton.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!uwm.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.u iowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Variegated plants from seed? Message-ID: <1995Mar13.150106.40162@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 15:01:05 -0600 References: <3k23sn$m4u@post.its.mcw.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 13 From allyn@u.washington.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:00 EST 1995 Article: 58476 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!nntp.cac.washington.edu!psaltery.chem.washington.edu!user From: allyn@u.washington.edu (Allyn Weaks) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Seattle soils (was: Re: Need help with Seattle herb garden...) Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 21:02:38 -0800 Organization: University of Washington Lines: 44 Message-ID: References: <3jl8a0$fck@gtenmo1.nmo.gtegsc.com> <3k25eg$dp7@news.halcyon.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: psaltery.chem.washington.edu X-Newsreader: Value-Added NewsWatcher 2.0b24.0+ Status: O X-Status: In article <3k25eg$dp7@news.halcyon.com>, cirsium@halcyon.com wrote: > > Tracy Warner writes: > > My garden gets a lot of sun and the soil is claylike and fertile. > > You may find that the typical Seattle clay requires some deep digging > and incorporation of compost plus some coarse sand to improve its > drainage. Most of the popular herbs will not tolerate wet feet, and are > much more likely to drown during our winters than freeze! I'm curious about exactly where you live that you have any clay to speak of in your soil. I keep hearing people talk about the heavy clay soil in Seattle, but I've yet to see any. I'm in Greenwood and have 10% tops (mostly much less) with a goodly amount of sand and much coarse silt and some fine silt, which from the reading that I've been doing is pretty typical for the Sound in general unless you're in an alluvial floodplain. Did the contractors of some eras and areas truck in clay soil as 'top' soil? Or are you lucky enough (or foresightful enough) to live in one of the alluvial valleys? Poor drainage can be due to a hardpan layer beneath the surface soil, either naturally there (quite common on gently undulating terrain, usually about two to three feet down before construction mangling) or due to heavy construction vehicles packing things down when they built the house, or sometimes due to frequent tilling to the same depth. If the hardpan is quite near the surface, it's the digging that breaks it up, not the addition of sand per se. A cover crop with very deep roots like winter rye or white radish or dandelions will do better than digging, assuming of course that the hardpan isn't bedrock :-). A heavy mulch to encourage worms and other tunneling decomposers also helps tremendously (as do moles!) If you're in a basin, though, it may be hard to rectify things without putting in drains to the sewer system, at which point raised beds or planting bog plants might be more practical. I'm curious as to whether you've tested your soil for clay content (easy to do at home with a jar and a clock). Having come from St. Louis where there is _real_ clay, I've yet to see any around here...if you can't make a pot from it, and if doesn't collect in gigantic gooey masses on your boots to the point where you can't pick your feet up, it's not real clay :-). If you have any extra, can I have some? To remind me of what I'm not missing? :-) -- Allyn Weaks allyn@u.washington.edu From wade@uabcomm.comm.uab.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:01 EST 1995 Article: 58477 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!psuvax1!news.ecn.bgu.edu!willis.cis.uab.edu!maze.dpo.uab.edu!usenet From: comm034@uabdpo.dpo.uab.edu (Wade Woodward) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Who is Martha? Date: 14 Mar 1995 13:56:43 GMT Organization: Univ. of Alabama Birmingham Lines: 20 Message-ID: <3k47ar$lj6@maze.dpo.uab.edu> Reply-To: wade@uabcomm.comm.uab.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: 138.26.15.20 X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+ Status: RO X-Status: Heck, guys, I think if you take both comments and mix 'em you might get an small idea of who she isn't. I bet neither one of you know her personally (me neither) so you can not deduct that she is a tyrant or that she is the victim of "male" scorn because she is successful. She like most anyone else is probably just a normal person that liked something enough to try it out as a career and WOW! she made it a business. That is America!? Good for her. So, we come to what is a GARDENER? Is it someone that gets their hands dirty day in a day out? How often do you have to get on your knees and dig to be a gardener? Is knowledge about plants only to be used by oneself? Do you share your information? To whom, and with how many people? How? If she thinks gardens and plants then she is a gardener in my book. Information is growth for "ignorance is the night of the mind". She grows and shares. She is an asset. Choose what you want from it and leave the rest behind.....like this post. Now, my ten cents worth has depreciated to about a penny. I've got plants to plants you know...oh yes, the weeds to pull. wade (just wade) zone 7-8 ....on us all, a little rain must fall... .....and yes, I've already gotten poisen ivy this year.... ......twice, actually.... From fletcher@prairienet.org Thu Mar 16 00:41:02 EST 1995 Article: 58478 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!prairienet.org!fletcher From: fletcher@prairienet.org (Karen Fletcher) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: FYI: Gardening software reviews on the WWW Date: 14 Mar 1995 14:11:09 GMT Organization: Prairienet, the East-Central Illinois Free-Net Lines: 20 Message-ID: <3k485t$oiq@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: firefly.prairienet.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: Since there have been a lot of questions lately, here are a couple of starting points. Both are available via The Garden Gate, on the new Gardening Software page: FLOWERSCAPE: An illustrated e-review. The Garden Gate's own review of a garden design program for PC and Mac. "A Look at Landscape and Gardening Software" http://www.wimsey.com/tcp/Jan95/Gardening.html By Martin P. Waterman. From Canada's _The Computer Paper_, this article discusses software programs for garden layout and design. Karen Fletcher fletcher@prairienet.org ========================================================================== The Garden Gate http://www.prairienet.org/ag/garden/homepage.htm The Garden Gate at SunSITE http://sunsite.unc.edu/garden-gate/homepage.htm The Garden Spider's Web http://mirror.wwa.com/mirror/garden/spdrsweb.htm From lgesmer@wilder.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:03 EST 1995 Article: 58479 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!news.wing.net!lgesmer From: lgesmer@wilder.com (Lee Gesmer) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Lawn Care Date: 14 Mar 1995 14:14:58 GMT Organization: WING Lines: 15 Message-ID: <3k48d2$aet@news1.WING.NET> NNTP-Posting-Host: dialin1.wing.net Originator: lgesmer@dialin1 Status: O X-Status: We moved into a house with a large lawn two years ago, and have had two "lawn"seasons. Both years, I insisted that we not use a "Scotts Four Step" plan, and try to control weeds, crabgrass, ect., without poisens. Both years, it didn't work. I did the usual things: kept grass high, weeded manually, used mild fertilizer, ect. This year, my wife is insisting on Scotts. I am concerned about what it might do to birds, animals, the goldfish in our pond (through run off). I'd appreciate any comments from anyone who has faced similar problems -- Lee Gesmer From jrohed@edv1e99 Thu Mar 16 00:41:04 EST 1995 Article: 58480 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!tcsi.tcs.com!uunet!ftpbox!mothost!pts-nntp!edv1e99!jrohed From: jrohed@edv1e99 (Jonathan Rohed) Subject: Fungus on mums- what to do? Message-ID: Sender: news@pts.mot.com Nntp-Posting-Host: macrohed.pts.mot.com Organization: Motorola Inc, Paging Products Group, Boynton Beach, FL X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 13:04:43 GMT Lines: 8 Status: O X-Status: About 3 weeks ago I got a shipment of "Blaz-o-mums" and 3 types of Clematis from Gurnees and set them out (shaded at first and then exposed to full sun gradually). During the last week or so, it appears as though there is fungal growth on the existent leaves and also starting to appear on the new growth. It looks like the fungus is starting to also affect the Clematis which is a few feet away- a very unhappy situation. Most of the other pre-existent plants in the area, with the same exposure and watering (and including older mums) are not infected. The reference books say to remove and destroy the plants. Is there some other sort of treatment I can give them which is less radical? I have been reading horror stories about fungicides touching the wrong plants and destroying them.Any advice? Please help! Thanks in advance; Jonathan Rohed W10436@email.mot.com Lake Worth FL Zone 9-10 From fletcher@prairienet.org Thu Mar 16 00:41:06 EST 1995 Article: 58481 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!prairienet.org!fletcher From: fletcher@prairienet.org (Karen Fletcher) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Herbs that grow in shade Date: 14 Mar 1995 14:25:05 GMT Organization: Prairienet, the East-Central Illinois Free-Net Lines: 19 Message-ID: <3k4901$oiq@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: <1995Mar13.013914.27171@lugb.latrobe.edu.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: firefly.prairienet.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: Maryanne Todd (lssac@luxor.latrobe.edu.au) wrote: : A list of herbs that are shade lovers or shade tolerant would be greatly : appreciated. Any herb list would be appreciated, and if it isn't : suited to our area I can find out. I'm in Melbourne, Australia, so : please don't ask me for my zone, we don't have any! Sadly, most common herbs are of Mediterranean origin and will be disappointing if grown in anything less than full sun. If you can redirect your ambitions, though, it sounds like you have a lovely spot for a shade garden - and there are LOTS of wonderful plants to choose from for that. Karen Fletcher fletcher@prairienet.org ========================================================================== The Garden Gate http://www.prairienet.org/ag/garden/homepage.htm The Garden Gate at SunSITE http://sunsite.unc.edu/garden-gate/homepage.htm The Garden Spider's Web http://mirror.wwa.com/mirror/garden/spdrsweb.htm From allyn@u.washington.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:07 EST 1995 Article: 58482 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!nntp.cac.washington.edu!psaltery.chem.washington.edu!user From: allyn@u.washington.edu (Allyn Weaks) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bird feeder without weeds? Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 21:22:01 -0800 Organization: University of Washington Lines: 20 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: psaltery.chem.washington.edu X-Newsreader: Value-Added NewsWatcher 2.0b24.0+ Status: O X-Status: In article , pnash@metronet.com (Pat Nash) wrote: > I have a bird feeder in my back yard (currently over grass, but I will > soon have a garden area for it). The birds are VERY sloppy eaters and > throw half of the seed overboard while they are eating! Any suggestions > on keeping these seeds from germinating - mulch, brick base, etc.? I've starting letting the seeds have at it. Not that many sprout and survive, and of those that do: millet will give you a nice crop of more millet in about 6 to 8 weeks (I've had a few with more than 200 seeds on a one foot tall plant!), and the oil sunflowers, being hybrids, won't turn into giant sunflowers, but cute little ones, ranging in size from about 6 inches tall to a foot, with nice bright yellow flowers (no seeds that I've seen). Nothing has escaped more than a few feet from the feeder. Every now and then I rake across the pile of empty shells and spilled ones to spread them out and give the squirrels a shot at the leftovers and to keep the pile from growing into a mound. Makes a nice mulch. -- Allyn Weaks allyn@u.washington.edu From mcat@webe.hooked.net Thu Mar 16 00:41:08 EST 1995 Article: 58483 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!its.hooked.net!webe.hooked.net!not-for-mail From: mcat@webe.hooked.net (Catherine Dobbins M.D.) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Moss-- Date: 13 Mar 1995 21:16:13 -0800 Organization: Hooked Lines: 12 Message-ID: <3k38qt$avl@webe.hooked.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: webe.hooked.net Status: O X-Status: Hi, all-- I'm looking for information about moss--types, how to grow, etc. I have a new rock wall and pond and am wanting to get a variety of mosses to grow between the rocks. This weekend I collected moss from the woods, mixed it with yougurt to make a paste and painted it on the cement between the rocks to hasten the growth of moss in these areas. Will keep you posted on the success! Thanks for any information you may have. Catherine -- M.C. Dobbins, M.D. Hillsborough, CA mcat@hooked.net From swirsky@umis.upenn.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:09 EST 1995 Article: 58484 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!mercury.umis.upenn.edu!swirsky From: swirsky@umis.upenn.edu (Ted Swirsky) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Info in growing carrots from seed? Date: 14 Mar 1995 14:25:52 GMT Organization: University of Pennsylvania Lines: 5 Message-ID: <3k491g$bko@netnews.upenn.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: mercury.umis.upenn.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: My daughter likes carrots and insisted we buy some seeds. Are carrots difficult to grow? Any special requirements besides deep, loosened soil? We are in South Jersey. Thanks! From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:10 EST 1995 Article: 58485 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help - White fuzzy bugs! Message-ID: <1995Mar13.233541.40180@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 23:35:41 -0600 References: Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 65 Status: O X-Status: In article , jacksonj@eon.com (Jacquelyn Jackson) writes: > Last year, I bought a condo with a solarium (technically, > it is a greenhouse because it has single pane glass, roof, > and side vents) so that I could have the garden I have > always wanted and still stay in the city. > > Last summer, I noticed small white fuzzy bugs on several of my > tomato plants. I tried dish soap, and then Safer Soap for garden > veggies with no success. The bugs spread to every plant (basil, > rosemary, lavender, various flowering plants, bay, eucalyptus, > schefalaras (sp?) pony tail palms, peppers, thyme, catnip, mint, > and more) except marjoram and chives. I lost nearly everything. Sounds like you may have had a mealy bug or scale infestation. Easiest 'cure' in a closed environment may be a pyrethin-containing "flea bomb" , followed by close surveillance and prompt eradication of any residual critters with a q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol. > > What are they and how do I get rid of them without contaminating > my edible plants with chemicals? The bugs seemed to slow down > over the winter, but I am still picking them off from time to > time. My bay tree (one of the few I didn't lose) seems to still > get them as well as my palms. I did notice over the winter that > these bugs leave a "sticky" residue on the plants and I found > several fuzzy cocoons over the winter (which I immediately > destroyed). > > I also noticed that I seem to have an influx of small red and > black striped bugs (look kinda like beetles, and they hang out > where it is sunny). I have sprayed my greenhouse and killed > literally thousands of these bugs. Are they related? If not, > do I have another potential nightmare on my hands? Offhand, it sounds like you might have boxelder bugs which are harmless. It is, however, nearly impossible to identify critters over the net with any assurance. Best things to do: 1) submit a sample of any new possible pest species to your local extension agent or entomology extension for identification and control recommendations. Keep a sample of the critter for yourself, too... so you can compare samples later. Dry hard bodied insects like beetles and bugs, and store them dry. Put soft-bodied insects in a bottle of rubbing alcohol. 2) Get a book on insect identification. Your extension office may have an inexpensive book or pamphlet of common pest species, or you may want a more general work, like Cynthia Westcott's books. My own preference for beginners is the wonderfully illustrated and easy to use "Insects" volume from the Peterson's Field Guide series. Although it does not have pictures of every garden pest species, you can at least determine if the insect at hand belongs to a group known to cause trouble. The "key" on the front endpapers is very useful and easy. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu > > I would appreciate any help on this as I would like to start > my seedlings within the next two weeks. > > Jacq > jacksonj@eon.com > From fletcher@prairienet.org Thu Mar 16 00:41:11 EST 1995 Article: 58487 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!prairienet.org!fletcher From: fletcher@prairienet.org (Karen Fletcher) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: "Potting" plants Date: 14 Mar 1995 14:49:33 GMT Organization: Prairienet, the East-Central Illinois Free-Net Lines: 28 Message-ID: <3k4adt$oiq@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: <3k1q1p$7t1@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: firefly.prairienet.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: RO X-Status: Birdmommy (birdmommy@aol.com) wrote: : Ok, stupid question time, my 7 year old asked me and *I* don't know the : answer! (Gee, Mom really DOESN'T know everything) can you (has anyone) : ever grown tomatoes, peppers etc. INSIDE in containers in the winter? Can : it be done? Will it work? Can we have fresh Tomatoes and Peppers all : winter? Birdmommy? What a great name. Yes, it can be done. No, it can't be done cheaply unless you have a real sunroom (glass ceiling) or a heated greenhouse already. Tomatoes and peppers are tropical plants that need a warm place with LOTS of sunlight to grow sturdy and thrive. It simply can't be done properly with articifial light unless you get into the high (expensive) end with HID lighting. Flourescents can support the seedling to a certain size, but past that, there simply isn't enough light energy to bring the plants up right. Because of the way the human eye perceives brightness levels, we don't realize that a bright, sunny day can be 10,000 times brighter than our homes indoors under artificial lighting. Karen Fletcher fletcher@prairienet.org ========================================================================== The Garden Gate http://www.prairienet.org/ag/garden/homepage.htm The Garden Gate at SunSITE http://sunsite.unc.edu/garden-gate/homepage.htm The Garden Spider's Web http://mirror.wwa.com/mirror/garden/spdrsweb.htm From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:12 EST 1995 Article: 58488 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: how to ripen tomatoes Message-ID: <1995Mar13.234337.40181@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 23:43:37 -0600 References: <3g14ob$5jp@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3k2u6g$jsc@newshost.uslink.net> Distribution: world Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 44 Status: O X-Status: In article <3k2u6g$jsc@newshost.uslink.net>, kidkaos@uslink.net (pete hanson) writes: > kcurr@cyberspace.com (Kaycee Curr) wrote: >>In article , lhellwi@interaccess.com >>(Lisa Stalnaker Hellwig) wrote: >> >>> According to Organic Gardening, putting them in the windowsill just makes >>> them mushy. They say to put them in a paper bag. >> >>What I found works even better for me is wrapping them individually with >>paper towels so that they don't touch each other. (Later the paper towels >>can be used to do household chores or something, so that it's not a >>complete waste). Then put them in the paper bag. I check them every day >>still- you know what they say about one bad apple! :) > We use half an apple or a whole apple in a box of under ripe tomatoes. Set in shade (home, car etc) > keep around 80 -85 degrees. Will ripen in a couple of days :) The apple produces a special > chemical that causes the tomatoes to ripen faster. In fact when tomatoes are picked green in the fields > a very similar gas is used in trucks as they speed off to supermarkets...or so I've been told... > Anyway the apple speeds up the process :) > k The paper bag does indeed speed up the reddening of tomatoes by capturing a gaseous plant hormone, ethylene, given off by ripening fruits (among many plant parts). Ethylene is also given off by apples in considerable amounts, so apple + green tomato --> red tomato + apple also works. However, even if tomatoes are reddened by ethylene, they still probably aren't ripe. The ripening process involves the hydrolysis of stored starch to sugars (sweetening the fruit and changing the consistency), loosening of cell walls, also changing consistency, and formation of several types of molecules that will flavor a tomato. That's why store tomatoes, even the reddest, rarely have a flavor beyond wet cardboard... they were picked green and artificially reddened with ethylene. Ah well... only another 3 or 4 months before REAL tomatoes are available around here again! :-) Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From tkelsey@pacifier.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:14 EST 1995 Article: 58489 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!news.alpha.net!pacifier!tkelsey From: tkelsey@pacifier.com (Terra Kelsey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: star jasmine care Date: 14 Mar 1995 06:01:52 GMT Organization: Pacifier, a public access Internet site. (206-693-0325) Lines: 11 Message-ID: <3k3bgg$ees@news.pacifier.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: pacifier.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: I need advice on caring for a star jasmine bush. I live in the Pacific Northwest , near Portland, Oregon, zone 7, and have carefully overwintered this warm-tempered lovely indoors on a cool back porch. It's losing it's leaves; do I prune the twigs back or fertilize, or leave it alone? Any suggestions appreciated! -- --- pacifier.com - Vancouver's Public access Internet (206) 693-0325 telnet or dial the above and type "new" at the prompt to register From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:15 EST 1995 Article: 58490 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: ?Water Lilies in Vermont Message-ID: <1995Mar13.235207.40182@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 13 Mar 95 23:52:07 -0600 References: <3k32dp$s62$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 20 Status: O X-Status: In article <3k32dp$s62$1@mhade.production.compuserve.com>, Bob Bland <72674.2043@CompuServe.COM> writes: > I have a boggy area in front of my house in which I would like to > plant some flowering plants. This area has an apparently constant > slow flow of water throughout the year, even in winter, if this > mild one just passing is an indicator. There is no surface > water, except where I have dug trenches and there it fluctuates > by about 3" but never goes dry. The area gets full sun for the > most part. I am thinking of water lilies in some of the > shallow ponds (6-12") I am making and would like to share the > experience of others in northern (zone 4a) climates. Also, are > there other flowering bog plants or ones with interesting foliage > that might do well here. You might consider a bog garden with native species like Iris virginica, Mimulus glabratus (yellow monkey flower), Cephalanthus occidentalis (button bush), some of the Ranunculus species (crow- foot; buttercup), Parnassia (grass of parnassus), etc., etc. Many ferns and lycopodiums like "wet feet" also. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From rosepark@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:19 EST 1995 Article: 58491 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: rosepark@ix.netcom.com (ELIZABETH GEPPERT) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: One more Clematis question Date: 14 Mar 1995 06:18:15 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 12 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k3cf7$cvi@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-or6-24.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Last year during an unusually hot spell three of my favorite clematis vines wilted and died to the ground. I was heartbroken. Since then I have read up on Clematis Wilt. The experts seem to blame an evil microorganism. I am not altogether convinced though. In my yard I have about twelve clematis vines and the only ones that wilted were trellised against a south facing brick wall. Could it have been the heat of the bricks? Those three vines have come up from the roots and are starting to grow now. Should I move them? Is now a good time? Is there a way to prevent this from happening again? > From dsimpson@cet.fsu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:20 EST 1995 Article: 58492 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!mailer.fsu.edu!dsimpson.cet.fsu.edu!dsimpson From: Deb Simpson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: compost tumbler? Date: 14 Mar 1995 15:52:24 GMT Organization: Florida State University Lines: 5 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k4e3o$g8r@mailer.fsu.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: dsimpson.cet.fsu.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Newsreader: Nuntius 2.0.1_68K X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 10:54:11 GMT Status: O X-Status: Three hundred dollars is a bit much to pay for something you can make for free. I've also rec'd those brochures, and it looks like it would be easier with this device, but hey, it's still just dirt --excellent dirt-- but still dirt. I continue to maintain my own heap of wire mesh with frequent 'stirrings' and lots of kitchen wastes in little bitty pieces. From gresh@watson.ibm.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:22 EST 1995 Article: 58493 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!pipex!hursley.ibm.com!aixssc.uk.ibm.com!watnews.watson.ibm.com!gresh From: gresh@watson.ibm.com (donna gresh) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: tuberous begonias; which side goes up? Date: 10 Mar 1995 23:19:48 GMT Organization: Data Explorer Software Development, IBM Corporation Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3jqmqk$16pn@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: sphere.watson.ibm.com Status: O X-Status: I bought some tuberous begonia tubers yesterday, and after I got home I realized I'd forgotten to ask which way they go; I have done this before, but always forget by the following spring. I put them in dent side up, as that seemed to make the most sense. Do I have to dig em up and try again? -- Donna Gresh From jstier@yu1.yu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:23 EST 1995 Article: 58494 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!panix!cmcl2!thecourier.cims.nyu.edu!yu1.yu.edu!jstier From: Jeff Stier Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: When to plant tomatoes Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 15:09:51 -0500 Organization: Courant Institute of Mathematical Sciences Lines: 18 Message-ID: References: <3iqv9t$ani$4@mhadg.production.compuserve.com> <3jkbfg$1gb4@sernews.raleigh.ibm.com> <199503131407.JAA25157@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: dopey.cs.nyu.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In-Reply-To: <199503131407.JAA25157@kelvin.seas.Virginia.EDU> Status: O X-Status: > I start my seeds indoors at 8-10 weeks before the last frost date (May 15 here) Did you mean March 15? Where are you? > After this I just plant them in my garden and give a good dose of 1/2 strength > fertilizer. I water about a gallon a plant once a week if we do not have rain > and give 1/2 strength fertilizer every 2 to 3 weeks. This is the way I grow > all of my vegetables that I start indoors. Is that because full strength fertilizer will give too much leaf growth? I can't WAIT to get started! I think activity will increase on this newsgroup with the warm weather in NYC area! ****************************************************************************** Jeff Stier jstier@yu1.yu.edu !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! From cheryln@stortek.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:24 EST 1995 Article: 58495 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!csn!stortek!cheryln From: cheryln@stortek.com (Cheryl Netter x3449) Subject: Re: Guinea Pig poo as fertilizer? Message-ID: Sender: news@stortek.com Organization: Storage Technology References: <3k0lbq$gro@potogold.rmii.com> Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 15:41:33 GMT Lines: 29 Status: O X-Status: In article <3k0lbq$gro@potogold.rmii.com> Steve Zerbe writes: > Someone earlier was discussing rabbit manure as compost. My > situation is that we have guinea pigs (5) that I would like to > move outdoors on warm days in my yard. I have a 4x4 box with no > bottom and a piece of plywood that partially covers the top. So > they are free to run around the box and eat grass during the day. > My question is this: Is their manure going to be okay for the > grass in my yard? They are being fed a pellet mixture of soybean > meal, alfalfa meal and various other incredients mixed with crushed > corn. I also give them a _little_ lettuce from time to time. > I also intend to move the box a few inches every day so it won't > make permanent dents in what little lawn I have! > > Julie Boy, does this take me back, oh say, about 25 years. I only had two guinea pigs, that I'd corral with a large crate out in the grass on nice days. The crate was moved several times a day, since the pigs would mow the grass right down. The spots in the lawn where the pigs had been grew really green. I suspect you may have to move box more often than a few inches a day since guinea pigs like grass so much. cheryl cheryln@redwood.stortek.com USDA zone 4 Golden Co From sue1@arch4.ho.att.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:26 EST 1995 Article: 58496 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!nntpa!not-for-mail From: sue1@arch4.ho.att.com () Subject: WHAT IS THIS PEST ON THE TREES?? Message-ID: Followup-To: sue1@arch4.ho.att.com Sender: news@nntpa.cb.att.com (Netnews Administration) Nntp-Posting-Host: arch4.ho.att.com Organization: /etc/organization Distribution: usa Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 14:51:16 GMT Lines: 18 Status: O X-Status: I'm in Zone 6 (Central NJ) and for the past few years many of the trees in the back yard (which borders on woods) had this pest that would grow on the leaves in late spring/early summer. They are round blobs, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter, colors range from yellow to orange to red, and they are shiny. I was planning to spray the trees with some horticultural oil in hopes of killing these pests before they emerge. Someone posted here recently saying that this spray should be used 10 days before the eggs hatch... Now I'm confused... I don't know what these pests really are and I would like to NOT have to look at these gross little critters all summer. When should I spray? Is horticultural oil the right thing to use? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Susan From janeb@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:27 EST 1995 Article: 58497 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: janeb@ix.netcom.com (Jane Bergen) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wayside Gardens=Park Seed? Date: 14 Mar 1995 06:34:19 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 15 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k3ddb$k0v@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> References: <1995Mar13.154353.11366@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dfw3-04.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: In <1995Mar13.154353.11366@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil> welshg@rl.af.mil (Glenn T. Welsh) writes: > >Prices to high! Quality too low. That's my experience. But they have great >pictures to help you through the winter! > >Glenn > I just received my order of three Clematis plants from Park and the instructions they included said something about Wayside gardens. Is Park a subsidiary/parent of Wayside or do they get their plants from Wayside? Inquiring minds want to know...... Jane Bergen From bparker@leo.vsla.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:28 EST 1995 Article: 58498 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!leo.vsla.edu!bparker From: bparker@leo.vsla.edu (Bonnie Parker) Subject: PEONIES Message-ID: <1995Mar14.161358.4983@leo.vsla.edu> Organization: Virginia State Library Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 16:13:58 GMT Lines: 2 Status: O X-Status: I planted peonies several years ago. They come up every year, but never bloom. What am I doing wrong? (I'm in zone 7) From steven@rain.org Thu Mar 16 00:41:29 EST 1995 Article: 58499 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.rain.org!coyote.rain.org!steven From: steven@rain.org () Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bird feeder without weeds? Date: 14 Mar 1995 06:37:45 GMT Organization: Steven Reynolds at RAIN, Santa Barbara, CA Lines: 16 Message-ID: <3k3djp$cuk@news.rain.org> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: coyote.rain.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: If you don't want the seeds to germinate, try what's known as a "pre-seeder weeder." It comes in a granulated form that you sprinkle onto the soil, work in, and it prevents seeds from germinating. It's great, but if you're vegetable gardening, don't plant any seeds directly where you scattered the pre-emergent or you'll get nothing! It will not harm existing plants, however. A good brand to get is Eptan Pre-Emergent. Good luck. -- _______________________________________________ | | | Steven A. Reynolds Santa Barbara, CA | | steven@rain.org Amateur Radio: AA6OT | |_______________________________________________| From steven@rain.org Thu Mar 16 00:41:30 EST 1995 Article: 58500 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!news.rain.org!coyote.rain.org!steven From: steven@rain.org () Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: california storm Date: 14 Mar 1995 06:44:03 GMT Organization: RAIN Public Access Internet (805) 967-RAIN Lines: 16 Message-ID: <3k3dvj$cuk@news.rain.org> References: <3jr8uv$94a@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> <5g87umV.pattibelle@delphi.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: coyote.rain.org X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: No damage to my garden but the nursery I manage got flooded for the second time this year! I'm sure getting sick and tired of cleaning up! The second flood (or "The Flood II" as my employees call it) was not as bad as January, only 4" of water and mud instead of 16" in Jan. My Citrus are under about 3" of water now but they're young and can handle it. I worry when it gets so windy because the soil is so saturated and the citrus are easily uprooted. They're hanging in there! -- _______________________________________________ | | | Steven A. Reynolds Santa Barbara, CA | | steven@rain.org Amateur Radio: AA6OT | |_______________________________________________| From macrakis@osf.org Thu Mar 16 00:41:32 EST 1995 Article: 58501 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!panix!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!paperboy.osf.org!usenet From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Annuals available at local nurseries (was: What are you growing from seed?) Date: 14 Mar 1995 16:08:03 GMT Organization: OSF Research Institute Lines: 14 Message-ID: References: <1995Mar9.173325.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> <3jr3sa$pv4@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: lakatos.osf.org In-reply-to: grnthm@aol.com's message of 10 Mar 1995 22:02:34 -0500 Status: O X-Status: In article <3jr3sa$pv4@newsbf02.news.aol.com> grnthm@aol.com (GrnThm) writes: [re] limited variety of annuals at local nurseries - like everything else, they go for lowest common denominator - whatever "gardeners" (homeowners) can plant that are the hardiest and easiest to maintain... One of the books I've been reading on seed starting points out that what nurseries sell for planting out has to look nice _at the time they sell it_. You very often see annuals with flowers already open at such garden centers, where what you really want is a plant that will flower well after you plant it! -s From nessonm@ava.bcc.orst.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:33 EST 1995 Article: 58502 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!UB.com!wetware!wsrcc.com!gaia.ucs.orst.edu!ava.bcc.orst.edu!nessonm From: nessonm@ava.bcc.orst.edu (Mike Nesson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Hormodin rooting powder Date: 13 Mar 1995 22:49:05 GMT Organization: Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon Lines: 16 Message-ID: <3k2i51$6rr@gaia.ucs.orst.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: ava.bcc.orst.edu Status: O X-Status: "Charley's Greenhouse Supply" has the three Hormodin strength rooting preps available in 4 oz sizes, as well as a set of all three in 4 oz size for under $10. Charley's address is: 1569 Memorial Highway Mt. Vernon, WA 98273 Phone: 1-800-322-4707 Catalog $2.00 I've no connection with them, but I called an order in recently. Mike Nesson -- _______________________________________________________________________ Michael Nesson nessonm@bcc.orst.edu (503)737-1866 FAX:(503)737-0481 Dept. of Biochem/Biophys., AgLS 2011, Oregon State University From wham108550@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:34 EST 1995 Article: 58503 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: wham108550@aol.com (Wham108550) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: HELP WITH WHITE FLYS I THINK Date: 14 Mar 1995 11:23:00 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 4 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k4ft4$220@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <1995Mar13.132030.40140@cobra.uni.edu> Reply-To: wham108550@aol.com (Wham108550) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I had the same trouble last year and solve the problem the old fashion way ... I got a predator to eat them. Put a couple of small spiders on the Plants and they had a munch fest. Just gotta be sure to clean the webbing off before using but this method saved my Basil and Sage plants. From donna_menk@radian.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:35 EST 1995 Article: 58504 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!hudson.lm.com!fs7.ece.cmu.edu!news.radian.com.!dlmenk-65474.radian.com!donna_menk From: donna_menk@radian.com (Menk, Donna) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Christine Owens postings Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 10:52:42 Organization: Radian Corporation, Austin, TX, USA Lines: 14 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <3jvhtv$2le@nntp.interaccess.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: dlmenk-65474.radian.com X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev Final Beta #8] Status: O X-Status: In article <3jvhtv$2le@nntp.interaccess.com> June Meyer writes: >From: June Meyer >Subject: Re: Christine Owens postings >Date: 12 Mar 1995 19:26:55 GMT >In article Ian, grumbo@niagara.com >writes: >>I am impressed Christine.. U had an answer for EVERYONE ;^} >I learned more from Christine's multi postings than I did in a semester >of study. Thanks Christine. I second this! Clear, concise, useful responses--good job, Christine! From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:37 EST 1995 Article: 58506 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!newshost.marcam.com!hookup!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Source for Enkianthus cernuus rubens & E.deflexus Date: 14 Mar 1995 17:05:58 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 6 Message-ID: <3k4idm$akf@post.its.mcw.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: Do any of you fine people out there know of a source for the small tree/shrubs Enkianthus cernuus rubens or Enkianthus deflexus? I have seen some ads for E. campanulatus, but not the others. Post reply or e-mail. Thanks in advance. Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu From gfeir@omni.voicenet.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:38 EST 1995 Article: 58507 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!uwm.edu!msunews!netnews.upenn.edu!nova.voicenet.com!usenet From: Glenna Feir Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: BUCKS COUNTY-PA - When to plant peas? Date: 14 Mar 1995 16:29:57 GMT Organization: DSC/Voicenet - BBS/Unix Shells/SLIP/NEWS - (215)443-7390 Lines: 8 Message-ID: <3k4ga5$jn5@nova.voicenet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ivyland07.voicenet.com Status: O X-Status: We've just moved to Bucks County and I'd like to try planting some snow peas and sugar snap peas. I know they have to be planted early, but how early? Should they be started indoors? I'd also need advice on things like which annuals do well here, and general gardening advice for this area. Thanks for any help. Glenna From macrakis@osf.org Thu Mar 16 00:41:39 EST 1995 Article: 58508 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!hobbes.cc.uga.edu!cssun.mathcs.emory.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!paperboy.osf.org!usenet From: macrakis@osf.org (Stavros Macrakis) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Edible? Brown Garden Snails Date: 14 Mar 1995 17:19:08 GMT Organization: OSF Research Institute Lines: 51 Message-ID: References: <3jlj78$pcf@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jnrlj$opj@netaxs.com> <3jnsva$c2p@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> <3k2g4j$m1v@risc.agsm.ucla.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: lakatos.osf.org In-reply-to: aramirez@agsm.ucla.edu's message of 13 Mar 1995 14:14:43 -0800 Status: O X-Status: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) writes: >These snails are edible, but they are NOT the snails used in escargot! >Besides which, preparing snails for eating is a LOT of work.... In article <3k2g4j$m1v@risc.agsm.ucla.edu> aramirez@agsm.ucla.edu (Alice Ramirez) writes: ...I also recall reading... that somebody in N. Cal was collecting these then marketing them as escargot. You are right about it being a lot of work to prepare them for the table. I recall that it involves putting them into corn meal for several days, to flush out all the poisons.... Many varieties of snails are good to eat. The most common one is Helix pomatia, which lives on grape vines (among other things). It is no accident that snails are popular in wine-producing areas like France and Italy! There is a book you might want to consult (I haven't seen it, but found it in a library catalogue): Escargots from your garden to your table, by Francois Picart. Published by F. Picart Snails, Santa Rosa, CA. It is absolutely not true that preparing snails for eating is a lot of work. You just collect them, wash them, and throw them in a barrel with some cornmeal. A week later, they're ready to cook. They have the handy habit of sealing themselves up and going dormant for long times, so you can keep them without spoilage for months. After you cook them, you can serve them in the shell. There are various tricks for getting the meat out; the one my father learned as a child in Crete was to crack open the small end like a soft-boiled egg and twist the meat out with a toothpick or fork tine. More elegant service involves removing the meat in the kitchen, and putting it back in before serving it. That indeed requires more work, but is completely unnecessary -- it is just a little luxury. I'm not sure what COwens means by "they are NOT the snails used in escargot". "Escargot" is simply the French word for "snail". As I said above, several varieties of snail are used for snail dishes in France, although the "petit gris" is probably the most popular. No doubt there are other edible snails (or "escargots" if you prefer) that would work just fine in snail cookery. Or perhaps the word "escargot" is now being used as a marketing term for "snail", the way squid is called "calamari" on many menus? Or is it being abused like "scampi", to mean a kind of preparation? "Scampi" are a kind of shellfish found in the Adriatic, something like crayfish; in the US, it is often misused to mean "shrimp with garlic and oil"; you see such solecisms as "shimp scampi". You might as well talk about "mushrooms champignons" or "peas petit pois" or ... "snails escargots". -s From pattibelle@delphi.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:40 EST 1995 Article: 58509 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: PATTIBELLE Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Deer and Fences Date: Tue, 14 Mar 95 02:27:51 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 11 Message-ID: References: <3jv7rk$noi@pipe1.pipeline.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1c.delphi.com X-To: Charles L. Measter Status: O X-Status: Deer jump fences and walk up driveways and on gravel pathways. Many people love deer and would rather see them than exclude them. My neighbor, for instance, mows his weeds and feeds birds like mad. The deer walk into his back yard and eat the birdseed. I've fenced them out on that side, but they jump the other two fences on my property. I don't think however, that deer would jump a series of fences where everybody agrees to fence, but you have deer lovers and deer haters (gardeners). Down at Pebble Beach, CA they feed birth control pills to the does (I'm NOT kidding). Pat in Napa, CA From slbailey@bu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:42 EST 1995 Article: 58510 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!salliemae!uunet!news.mathworks.com!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!purdue!news.bu.edu!slbailey From: slbailey@bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: news.config,news.groups,misc.consumers,misc.rural,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Propose new group: alt.living.tightwad Followup-To: news.config,news.groups,misc.consumers,misc.rural,rec.gardens Date: 14 Mar 1995 17:30:41 GMT Organization: Boston University Lines: 19 Message-ID: <3k4js1$mfc@news.bu.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: acs.bu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.config:565 news.groups:114450 misc.consumers:87970 misc.rural:15958 rec.gardens:58510 Status: O X-Status: I will say this -- I subscribed to MAXLIFE and I'm disappointed. I'm getting digests and I have gotten I think five since Saturday (That's less than three full days). They are more chatty than newsgroups are, and the topics so far are NOT anything to do with frugal living. I don't have time for busy listservs that fill up my mailbox (and server) with junk I'm not interested in -- newsgroups I can go to when I have time and subject-search to find only the topics I want to bother with. Digests and e-mail FORCE you to scan EVERYTHING or nothing. I'm dumping the list -- it's not for me. I sympathize with the people who think listservs are a way to test an idea before launching a new group, but when in such a short time so many people enthusiastically endorse an idea, *I* think that in itself is a test, and I wonder if those who like the e-mail delivery have other agendas, like monetary issues. (OK for them, irrelevant to me.) I think a proposal for a misc.frugal newsgroup would be sensible, and I'd subscribe. (And plead that people stay on-topic and give good subject lines!) Sherry From drlkrns@sdrc.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:43 EST 1995 Article: 58511 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!psinntp!sdrc.com!sdrc.com!drlkrns From: drlkrns@sdrc.com (lisa kerns) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Odd Trenches in Lawn? Date: 14 Mar 1995 15:35:57 GMT Organization: SDRC Lines: 27 Sender: drlkrns@sgidr1 (lisa kerns) Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k4d4t$tu@info1.sdrc.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: sgidr1.sdrc.com Status: O X-Status: Help! Last fall, I found somethng odd in the lawn. There was a trench about an inch to two inches wide, and about an inch or two deep, perfectly square, dug from the compost bin to the garden shed (about a foot distance). I thought "Gee, that's odd. Probably run-off water from the bin." Snow came, then left a few weeks ago and OHHH NOOO!!! Trenches coming out from the the garden shed all over!!! What ARE these things? They don't look like mole tunnels, they've got no tops on them. They're just tiny trenches and the soil under the shed seems all dug up. They are definately not chipmunks; I have them too and I know what their holes look like. So what is doing this? ===================================================================== | Lisa M. Kerns e-mail: lisa.kerns@sdrc.com | | | | Structural Dynamics Research Corporation Cincinnati, OH | | My employer cannot be held responsible for my correspondence ... | | They'd probably deny that I was employed here anyway. | ===================================================================== From nadine@seymour.ucs.ualberta.ca Thu Mar 16 00:41:44 EST 1995 Article: 58512 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!agate!news.mindlink.net!vanbc.wimsey.com!news.bc.net!rover.ucs.ualberta.ca!nadine From: nadine@seymour.ucs.ualberta.ca (Nadine Leenders) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Cold Frames - Glass or Plastic Date: 14 Mar 1995 17:29:38 GMT Organization: Computing and Network Services, U of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada Lines: 14 Message-ID: <3k4jq2$1nia@rover.ucs.ualberta.ca> NNTP-Posting-Host: solstice.ucs.ualberta.ca X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: It is finally getting warm enough here for me to try constructing my first cold frame. I'm going to use my kids' large sandbox for the base. My question is, can I get away with using some kind of plastic (preferably cheap stuff) instead of glass for the top? -- Nadine Leenders | nadine.leenders@ualberta.ca Computing and Network Services | (403) 492-9349 University of Alberta Edmonton, Alberta Canada T6G 2H1 From handerso@cks.ssd.k12.wa.us Thu Mar 16 00:41:46 EST 1995 Article: 58513 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!cks.ssd.k12.wa.us!cks.ssd.k12.wa.us!not-for-mail From: handerso@cks.ssd.k12.wa.us (Helen Anderson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seattle soils (was: Re: Need help with Seattle herb garden...) Date: 13 Mar 1995 23:23:10 -0800 Organization: Seattle Public Schools Lines: 7 Message-ID: <3k3g8u$477@cks.ssd.k12.wa.us> References: <3jl8a0$fck@gtenmo1.nmo.gtegsc.com> <3k25eg$dp7@news.halcyon.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: cks.ssd.k12.wa.us X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: : there is _real_ clay, I've yet to see any around here...if you can't make I believe it is mostly private property but try looking where the old brick plant used to be, south of Spokane Street. They mined the area east of what is now I-5. Don Anderson From konlen@eua.ericsson.se Thu Mar 16 00:41:47 EST 1995 Article: 58514 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!sunic.sunet.se!erinews.ericsson.se!eua.ericsson.se!euax3i1c07!konlen From: konlen@eua.ericsson.se (Lena Bolander) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: clay soil + compost = adobe ??? Date: 14 Mar 1995 07:50:10 GMT Organization: Ellemtel Telecom Systems Labs, Stockholm, Sweden Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k3hrj$1ql@euas20.eua.ericsson.se> References: <3k2fce$4ek@fitzherbert.pavilion.co.uk> Reply-To: konlen@eua.ericsson.se NNTP-Posting-Host: euax3i1c07.eua.ericsson.se NNTP-Posting-User: konlen Status: O X-Status: In article 4ek@fitzherbert.pavilion.co.uk, nightjar@pavilion.co.uk (nightjar) writes: > > Adding organic matter is not always the answer. On poorly drained soils it actually > decreases fertility - turning the soil anaerobic and sour. The way to check drainage > is to dig a hole about 2 feet deep when the soil is moist. Fill the hole with water and > if most of it is still there next day you should think seriously about sub-soil drains. > As Colin says the draining might be bad. This quite common with heavy clay which have been packed by use of heavy machines on top of it. When plowing only the top layer gets turned. The layer beneath is getting harder and harder. This is also way rototilliers not are very good to use on heavy clay. In order to correct this you need deep digging. Of course there may also be bad drainage which need to be corrected sub-soil drains but there may also be just enough with som digging. In order not to pack the clay you might make beds which you reach over without stepping on them an which you keep at the same place from year to year. Then you do not need the heavy work of digging each autumn. I use this method myself together with covering the soil with grassclippings during the growing season. /Lena From dornsj@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:49 EST 1995 Article: 58515 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!news.Vanderbilt.Edu!dial008.Vanderbilt.Edu!dornsj From: dornsj@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu (Sherman Dorn) Subject: Re: Red earthworms Message-ID: Lines: 17 Sender: news@news.vanderbilt.edu Nntp-Posting-Host: dial008.vanderbilt.edu Organization: Vanderbilt University X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] References: <3jpkuh$dp2@taurus.fccc.edu> Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 15:01:04 GMT Status: O X-Status: In article <3jpkuh$dp2@taurus.fccc.edu> John Bouck writes: >I just ordered 500 red earthworms from Garden Alive. I am assuming that >the worms will really survive to improve my garden. Do they really >survive in the garden once released? Any suggestions for better survival? Redworms primarily feed on organic matter, which means that most gardens will not be able to sustain them. It's a pretty expensive source of nitrogen to just put your worms in the garden. I'd recommend, instead, starting a worm bin and use the worms to compost kitchen waste. Get Mary Appelhof's book, WORMS EAT MY GARBAGE, for help. ____________ Sherman Dorn Vanderbilt University dornsj@ctrvax.vanderbilt From nr5@prism.gatech.edu Thu Mar 16 00:41:50 EST 1995 Article: 58516 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!gt-news!prism!prism!not-for-mail From: nr5@prism.gatech.edu (Nita Richard) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help designing flower beds Date: 14 Mar 1995 12:42:19 -0500 Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology Lines: 13 Sender: nr5@prism.gatech.edu Message-ID: <3k4khr$9gf@acmey.gatech.edu> References: <3k2k5c$8k2@ftcnews.nrcs.usda.gov> <3k4bn4$d9h@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: acmey.gatech.edu Status: O X-Status: You could duplicate the flower gardens pictured in garden catalogs like Springhill. They frequently have diagrams showing the layout and list the plants to be included. You don't have to buy their plants (I personally don't like Springhill) but you can sure take advantage of the flowerbed diagrams they put in their catalogs! Or then again you can do as I do and just plant what plants give me the "warm fuzzies" and be done with it. Just a thought. -- Nita Richard Georgia Institute of Technology, "Home of the 1996 Olympic Village" Atlanta Georgia, 30332-0181 uucp: ...!{decvax,hplabs,ncar,purdue,rutgers}!gatech!prism!nr5 Internet: nita.richard@vpea.gatech.edu (404)853-0050 From bbneely@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:52 EST 1995 Article: 58517 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bbneely@aol.com (BBNeely) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rookie needs help Date: 14 Mar 1995 12:28:50 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 3 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k4joi$2li@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3k34tr$ibe@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: bbneely@aol.com (BBNeely) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: To Rookie in Houston: Check with your county extension service. They can tell you what vegetables will grow best in your area. From wrweichel@ccgate.dp.beckman.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:54 EST 1995 Article: 58518 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!usc!news.service.uci.edu!biivax.dp.beckman.com!inet.dp.beckman.com!weichel!wrweichel Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: sow bugs/pill bugs Message-ID: From: wrweichel@ccgate.dp.beckman.com (Wayne Weichel) Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 08:38:21 References: <3ituai$328@monk.austin.cc.tx.us> <3j39m3$6l4@clam.rutgers.edu> Distribution: world Organization: Beckman Instruments, Inc. NNTP-Posting-Host: 134.217.42.153 X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] Lines: 15 Status: O X-Status: In article <3j39m3$6l4@clam.rutgers.edu> cev@clam.rutgers.edu (Cara Vandy) writes: >cddunn@monk.austin.cc.tx.us (charles dunn) writes: >>Does anyone know of an ORGANIC remedy for pill bugs? > why a remedy? What do they do to the gardens? (I always thought >they were kind of cute) > CEV They've munched down many a new seedling in my garden. Once plants are established the pill bugs don't seem to do any deadly damage, but they take cosmetically distasteful bites out of root crops like radishes and carrots. Wayne From bbneely@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:55 EST 1995 Article: 58519 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bbneely@aol.com (BBNeely) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rookie needs help Date: 14 Mar 1995 12:29:01 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 3 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k4jot$2lq@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3k34tr$ibe@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: bbneely@aol.com (BBNeely) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: To Rookie in Houston: Contact your county extension service for information on plants that grow best in your area. Good luck! From bbneely@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:57 EST 1995 Article: 58520 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bbneely@aol.com (BBNeely) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Need help in Mississippi Date: 14 Mar 1995 12:29:02 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 4 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k4jou$2lt@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: bbneely@aol.com (BBNeely) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: I would like to converse with other gardeners in the Deep South. I am interested in native plants and trees for the garden. I need help with my Louisiana iris. I have tried everything but they stiill do not bloom well. From bbneely@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:41:58 EST 1995 Article: 58521 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: bbneely@aol.com (BBNeely) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rookie needs help Date: 14 Mar 1995 12:29:02 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 3 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k4jou$2ls@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: <3k34tr$ibe@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: bbneely@aol.com (BBNeely) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: To Rookie in Houston: Contact your county extension service for information about plants that grow best in your area. From gaillimh@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:42:00 EST 1995 Article: 58522 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsjunkie.ans.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: gaillimh@aol.com (Gaillimh) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Horse Manure-Wood Shavings-Good for Gardens? Date: 14 Mar 1995 12:30:48 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 3 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k4js8$2mh@newsbf02.news.aol.com> References: Reply-To: gaillimh@aol.com (Gaillimh) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Please don't tell me horse manure is a poor fertilizer! I've been stockpiling it for weeks now. What's wrong with it. How does one compost it properly to maintain the nitrogen level? From normaw@hannah.mfg.sgi.com Thu Mar 16 00:42:02 EST 1995 Article: 58523 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!murrow.corp.sgi.com!fido.asd.sgi.com!news From: Norma Walling Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: One more Clematis question Date: 14 Mar 1995 17:33:43 GMT Organization: Silicon Graphics Inc., Mountain View, CA Lines: 19 Message-ID: <3k4k1n$d89@fido.asd.sgi.com> References: <3k3cf7$cvi@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: hannah.mfg.sgi.com Status: O X-Status: rosepark@ix.netcom.com (ELIZABETH GEPPERT) wrote: > > Last year during an unusually hot spell three of my favorite clematis vines wilted > and died to the ground. I was heartbroken. Since then I have read up on Clematis > Wilt. The experts seem to blame an evil microorganism. I am not altogether > convinced though. In my yard I have about twelve clematis vines and the only ones > that wilted were trellised against a south facing brick wall. Could it have been > the heat of the bricks? Those three vines have come up from the roots and are > starting to grow now. Should I move them? Is now a good time? Is there a way > to prevent this from happening again? > > > > > Clematis really like to have cool roots so maybe 4 to 6 inches of mulch might help them out! From handerso@cks.ssd.k12.wa.us Thu Mar 16 00:42:03 EST 1995 Article: 58524 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!alfa02.medio.net!netnews.nwnet.net!cks.ssd.k12.wa.us!cks.ssd.k12.wa.us!not-for-mail From: handerso@cks.ssd.k12.wa.us (Helen Anderson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Rampant Bamboo Invader? Date: 14 Mar 1995 00:17:34 -0800 Organization: Seattle Public Schools Lines: 17 Message-ID: <3k3jeu$4le@cks.ssd.k12.wa.us> References: <3jtfb3$9s3@news.cerf.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: cks.ssd.k12.wa.us X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: I was "given" a clump of bamboo about 8 years ago. It is about 10-15 feet tall, growing in an area of fairly poor soil and doing just fine without any help from me. I used to like but it acts too much like a weed. : 2) The rampant spreading of bamboo is all in proportion to the area it has been planted in: back yards in city lots versus estates or farms with acreage Half way across my yard into the bluberries and constantly poping up in my and my neighbors grass. : 3) Ignorance is not bliss for gardeners! Stupid mistakes cause waste of time and problems later. There are over 1,000 species of bamboo (and about 100 kinds fairly obtainable in USA). Literally, there is a bamboo for every planting situation. Plant Right, this stuff needs to be planted in a cast iron bath tub and checked for escapement every day. the right kind. For more information about bamboo contact me or the American Bamboo Society, P.O. Box 215, Slingerlands, NY 12159-0215 Tell me how to disolve the runners. : 5) There are many people who would gladly have the opporunity to dig out an unwanted bamboo grove, if only they knew about it and that it was a species they desired. That's how I made my mistake. I dug it out of elses yard. Come and get it. Don Anderson From kiewicz@oeonline.com Thu Mar 16 00:42:04 EST 1995 Article: 58525 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!m-net!netmeg!oeonline!kiewicz From: kiewicz@oeonline.com (Pat and George Kiewicz) Subject: Re: Mushy Vegetables Organization: Observer & Eccentric News Livonia, MI Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 14:36:17 GMT Message-ID: X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.1 PL8] References: <1995Mar8.165739.39903@cobra.uni.edu> Lines: 38 Status: O X-Status: klier@cobra.uni.edu wrote: : In article , naomi@anasazi.com (Naomi Walker) writes: : > : > : > I believe we've talked about this before, but I need a reminder. I : > have been very successful growing carrots and celery this winter. : > When I harvest them, I bring them in the house, wash and dry them, : > and put them in the refrigerator in those new "vegetable" bags (plastic : > bags with little air holes). : > : > Even though the vegetables are quite crisp coming out of the garden, : > they get rubbery in the house. Anyone have any suggestions? : They're getting rubbery as they loose water. Try a regular ziplock : bag or a "tupperware"-type container. Soak the carrots and celery : sticks in plain water for an hour before you use them if the problem : persists. I store the bulk of my carrot harvest for months in the 'fridge. I harvest in late fall, soak the carrots in cold water, rinse and dry them (I have several huge, old bath towels that I've saved for such uses), sort them by size (removing any damaged ones for immediate use), them pack them in regular 1-gallon plastic bags. In each bag I put a couple of sheets of dry paper towels. I check the bags after 24 hours and occasionally have to add another towel if a bag seems particularly moist. The carrots will keep a long, long time. I do the same thing with half my parsnips (the other half spend winter in the garden). The parsnips don't last as long as the carrots, but they will hold until I can start digging out the parsnips in the garden in early April. Pat in Plymouth MI -- ==================== We do not speak for the Suburban Communications Corporation. The Suburban Communications Corporation does not speak for us. From slbailey@bu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:42:06 EST 1995 Article: 58526 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!enews.sgi.com!decwrl!purdue!news.bu.edu!slbailey From: slbailey@bu.edu (Sherry Bailey) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: are wildflowers do-able in nice neighborhood? Date: 14 Mar 1995 17:41:33 GMT Organization: Boston University Lines: 36 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k4kgd$mfc@news.bu.edu> References: <3k0b6a$j8@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3k0cs1$30n@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: acs.bu.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] Status: O X-Status: I tried it and all I can say is that it's a LOT more work than it looks and a lot more work (and or money) than a standard garden. I thnk everybody fanticizes about those pretty farmer's fields that have bachelor buttons and queen anne's lace and rudbekia all in bloom togehter, effortlessly -- but that's not what happens. Read the catalogs for wildflower seeds CAREFULLY and you will find that the gorgeous pictures you see are usually of annuals -- planted fresh with fresh seed EVERY YEAR. If you have a large area, you can't rely on re-seeding, and besides, you have to prevent weeds fromt aking over, so it's prep time every spring! Getting perennial wildflowers to bloom reliably over a large area and in succession (remember they have shorter bloom times than annuals) is as much or more work than planting standard plants -- in fact, in a way it IS planting standard plants. Everything that isn't a hybrid was once wild, after all, and if it grows in your zone it probably is native there or to similar areas. So stuff like rudbekia is grown both by wildflower enthusiasts and regular gardeners. I planted a meadow mix, and it looked pretty the first year when the annuals came up, but pretty sparse and not very "meadowlike". The next year all I got were a couple of perennials and biennaials, and they were VERY sparse. Nothing reseeded at all. I have to do that with fresh store bought seed myself. I interplanted some daisies and things started indoors, and it's starting to hold it's own, but it's more effort to keep looking nice than the more carefully planned and planted "real" garden. I'm glad I didn't do my whole side yard that way as I had considered. Experiences vary, but I think my expectations were typical, and my results (in Zone 5) not atypical, so I offer this as warning -- don't make assumptions about this, you may regret them later! Goos luck if you choose to try it -=- I suggest you start with a small patch and remember it takes two or three years to see what is REALLY going to happen. (Unless you want to spend a few hundred dollars a year in seed!) Sherry From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Thu Mar 16 00:42:07 EST 1995 Article: 58527 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Wayside Gardens=Park Seed? Date: 14 Mar 1995 17:56:58 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 14 Message-ID: <3k4lda$akf@post.its.mcw.edu> References: <1995Mar13.154353.11366@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil> <3k3ddb$k0v@ixnews2.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: janeb@ix.netcom.com (Jane Bergen) wrote: > > I just received my order of three Clematis plants from Park and the instructions they > included said something about Wayside gardens. Is Park a subsidiary/parent of Wayside > or do they get their plants from Wayside? Inquiring minds want to know...... > > Jane Bergen > >Wayside Gardens and Park Seeds are indeed under the same ownership, with Wayside specializing in plants and Park in seeds and a few plants. Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu From gwv@sequoia.cray.com Thu Mar 16 00:42:09 EST 1995 Article: 58528 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!network.ucsd.edu!equalizer!timbuk.cray.com!driftwood.cray.com!gwv From: gwv@sequoia.cray.com (George VandenBerghe) Subject: Re: What's BLOOMIN' in your part of the land? Message-ID: <1995Mar14.104720.15006@driftwood.cray.com> Originator: gwv@sequoia Lines: 45 Sender: gwv@sequoia (George VandenBerghe) Nntp-Posting-Host: sequoia Organization: Cray Research, Inc. References: <3jf76o$lj3@maze.dpo.uab.edu> <3jiof7$m6j@holly.cc.uleth.ca> Date: 14 Mar 95 10:47:20 CST Status: O X-Status: In article <3jiof7$m6j@holly.cc.uleth.ca>, mckeen@hg.uleth.ca (Marg McKeen, Research Services, ext. 2747) writes: > In article <3jf76o$lj3@maze.dpo.uab.edu>, comm034@uabdpo.dpo.uab.edu (Wade Woodward) writes: > >I just thought it would be interesting to hear what people have > >blooming in their neck of the woods. It is early March. > > This is depressing...in Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada we've had a fairly mild > winter but it went down to -27 C last night and we have several inches of SNOW > on the ground. But the chinook's blowing in so it should be gone by tomorrow. > (A chinook is a dry wind that blows anywhere from 40 km/hr to 100 km/hr and > brings warm weather. It can go from -20 C to +10 C in a number of hours, > but more typically within several days. As you can guess, it's rather hard > on our plants. It can be -10 to -20 C for a week or two, then +10 or so for > another week or two, then back again to the deep freeze.) Needless to say, > nothing is blooming. The tulips should be out sometime in April or May. > > ZONE: 3A The Middle Atlantic Region (Washington DC) where I live now is fairly temperate and moderate except for the very hot and humid summers. Tallahassee Fl where I used to live had more extremes in spring. Last frost date in Tallahassee is sometime in March or early April and hot humid summerlike weather bringing everything into rapid growth and tempting the gardener to plant too early often precedes the last frost. Days around 30C and nights around 20C for a week in March are often followed by a night or two of -2C before the frost free growing season begins for good. (April often brings a lot of days with highs 20-25C and lows 1-5C and I have seen days over 32C followed by nights around 5C for a week at a time (1986 late April) From herbgrow@pipeline.com Thu Mar 16 00:42:10 EST 1995 Article: 58529 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.pipeline.com!not-for-mail From: herbgrow@pipeline.com (Wendy Taylor) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Herbs that grow in shade Date: 14 Mar 1995 12:38:34 -0500 Organization: The Pipeline Lines: 31 Message-ID: <3k4kaq$np0@pipe3.pipeline.com> References: <1995Mar13.013914.27171@lugb.latrobe.edu.au> NNTP-Posting-Host: pipe3.pipeline.com Status: O X-Status: In rec.gardens lssac@luxor.latrobe.edu.au (Maryanne Todd) said: >Unfortunately, I've discovered it actually gets very little direct sunlight >each day - about 1 hour direct, about 5 hours filtered (through the leaves of a >silky oak) and the rest of the time rather dense shade. I'm not getting rid of >the silky oak - a beautiful tree! - so, the question is - do any herbs grow >well in shade, and if so, which ones! > >A list of herbs that are shade lovers or shade tolerant would be greatly >appreciated. Any herb list would be appreciated, Don't give up on your dream! Two herbs that should thrive in the conditions you describe are sweet woodruff and lungwort. Both like shade and moist soil. Some other shade tolerant herbs that you could try in brighter parts of the garden include: Angelica Chervil Ginseng Sweet Cicily Sweet Violets Scented Geraniums Most members of the Mint family (invasive) Perhaps you could trim some of the branches on the silky oak tree to thin it out a little and let in more light? :-) -- Wendy |Free email herb plant & Harbor View Garden Co. |seed catalog available Herbgrow@pipeline.com |Harbor@pipeline.com From yk@s-crim1.dl.ac.uk Thu Mar 16 00:42:12 EST 1995 Article: 58530 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!warwick!yama.mcc.ac.uk!keele!daresbury!s-crim1!yk From: yk@s-crim1.dl.ac.uk (Hi Everyone) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: How do you prevent rose leaves getting black dots? Date: 14 Mar 1995 08:39:00 GMT Organization: SERC Daresbury Lab, Warrington, U.K. Lines: 7 Sender: yk@s-crim1 (Y. Khan) Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k3kn4$3qg@mserv1.dl.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: s-crim1.dl.ac.uk Keywords: roses Status: O X-Status: Hi I would be very grateful if anyone out there could tell me why my rose leaves get black dots and how I can prevent this from happening. Thanks for any help. From yk@s-crim1.dl.ac.uk Thu Mar 16 00:42:13 EST 1995 Article: 58531 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!warwick!yama.mcc.ac.uk!keele!daresbury!s-crim1!yk From: yk@s-crim1.dl.ac.uk (Hi) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: fragrant roses? Date: 14 Mar 1995 08:40:25 GMT Organization: SERC Daresbury Lab, Warrington, U.K. Lines: 7 Sender: yk@s-crim1 (Y. Khan) Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k3kpp$3qg@mserv1.dl.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: s-crim1.dl.ac.uk Keywords: roses Status: O X-Status: Hi Could anyone tell me what the most fragrant roses are called? Thanks for any help. From yk@s-crim1.dl.ac.uk Thu Mar 16 00:42:15 EST 1995 Article: 58532 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!warwick!yama.mcc.ac.uk!keele!daresbury!s-crim1!yk From: yk@s-crim1.dl.ac.uk (Hi) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Conifers in the way Date: 14 Mar 1995 08:42:48 GMT Organization: SERC Daresbury Lab, Warrington, U.K. Lines: 14 Sender: yk@s-crim1 (Y. Khan) Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k3ku8$3qg@mserv1.dl.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: s-crim1.dl.ac.uk Keywords: conifers Status: O X-Status: Hi My garden has many conifers I therefore have a problem of planting other plants in the garden. Could someone advise me on what plants grow best in the vicinity of many conifers. Thanks for any help. From psmith@superior.carleton.ca Thu Mar 16 00:42:16 EST 1995 Article: 58533 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!torn!nott!cunews!psmith From: psmith@superior.carleton.ca (Peter Smith) Subject: Re: LETTUCE GROWING Message-ID: Sender: news@cunews.carleton.ca (News Administrator) Organization: Carleton University References: <9503100218231622@southwest.org> Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 17:56:15 GMT Lines: 20 Status: O X-Status: In <9503100218231622@southwest.org> jen.mayer@southwest.org (Jen Mayer) writes: >CB> in an area which gets about 1/3 less sun (basically no direct sun >CB> till 12:00 noon). Do you think this will help??? >The heat is just as hard on lettuce as the sun - they'll bolt just from >the heat... I'd probably consider planting some lettuce in a box or >barrel of some sort that can be brought inside during the hottest >months. Someone suggested growing lettuce in an old wheelbarrow and >wheeling it around the yard so that it only gets sun certain parts of >the day, but those really hot months I get here in Pasadena can't be >helped. >There are varieties of lettuce that are more resistant to bolting, btw. Plant in the shade of a taller plant, and irrigate regularly. Plant shade is cooler than artificial shade (eg: cloth), due to "evapotranspiration". I think that is the word. good luck From cbrossma@advtech.uswest.com Thu Mar 16 00:42:17 EST 1995 Article: 58534 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!news.dell.com!tadpole.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!cherokee!NewsWatcher!user From: cbrossma@advtech.uswest.com (Craig Brossman) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Do I really need a light??? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 10:56:25 -0700 Organization: U S WEST Technologies Lines: 8 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 130.13.28.233 Status: O X-Status: I too am planing on growing my vegtables from seed this year, but I have a several great window sills to do it on. The get 5+ hours of direct light, from 11-4, and filtered light otherwise. Do I really need to invest (time, effort and money) in artificial light? or is this strong light at 5,400 ft. (Colorado) sufficient? -- Thanks ... Craig From p_whitehead@icrf.icnet.uk Thu Mar 16 00:42:19 EST 1995 Article: 58535 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunsite.doc.ic.ac.uk!charlie.lif.icnet.uk!mac054013.lif.icnet.uk!user From: p_whitehead@icrf.icnet.uk (Phil Whitehead) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Can't wet my seed starting mix :( Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 16:25:16 +0000 Organization: Imperial Cancer Research Fund Lines: 29 Message-ID: References: <3jhq49$hnp@bigboote.WPI.EDU> <3jims2$701@attila.dow.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac054013.lif.icnet.uk Status: O X-Status: In article <3jims2$701@attila.dow.com>, kpividal@dow.com (Kathy Pividal, La. R&D 504/353-2332) wrote: > In article <3jhq49$hnp@bigboote.WPI.EDU>, eeyore@wpi.WPI.EDU ( Melissa ) writes: > > Okay, I'm an idiot. I admit it. I filled up 7 flats with dry > > fluffy seed starting mix (peat moss/vermiculite/perlite) and > > planted my seeds DRY. Now I can't seem to wet the darn stuff. > > Is there ANYTHING I can do? I'm watering from underneath > > since some of the seeds were not covered (i.e. light needed > > for germination), but the water is not wicking up to the top > > layers. > > Thank you. > > Melissa > > > > stupid stupid stupid stupid stupid.... > > > Try a mister (clean spray bottle) with some warm water and soak the > seed starting mix by spraying the top. This way you don't disturb the > seeds you already planted. > > Kathy > Baton Rouge, LA (zone 8) Perhapse you need a wetting agent . You could try adding a little washing -up liquid to the water , it wont harm theseeds/plants and once the compost is moist further watering can be done with tap water. phil whitehead From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Thu Mar 16 00:42:20 EST 1995 Article: 58536 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: PEONIES Date: 14 Mar 1995 18:09:44 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 17 Message-ID: <3k4m58$akf@post.its.mcw.edu> References: <1995Mar14.161358.4983@leo.vsla.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: bparker@leo.vsla.edu (Bonnie Parker) wrote: > > I planted peonies several years ago. They come up every year, > but never bloom. What am I doing wrong? (I'm in zone 7) Two very important things about peonies. They should have as much sun as possible - preferably full sun (or at least not full shade) and they should not be planted too deep - the crown of the plant should only be an inch or two below the soil level. Do buds form, but then turn black? Then the problem is botyrytis blight and a fungicide is necessary. Fertilizer? Too much nitrogen produces foliage at the expense of flowers, so use a 4-12-4 or 5-10-5 (nitrogen-potassium - phosphorus). Lastly, peonies may take a year or two to bloom after being transplanted. Hope this helps. Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu From dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu Thu Mar 16 00:42:21 EST 1995 Article: 58537 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!usenet From: Don Martinson Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: tuberous begonias; which side goes up? Date: 14 Mar 1995 18:16:04 GMT Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 12 Message-ID: <3k4mh4$akf@post.its.mcw.edu> References: <3jqmqk$16pn@watnews1.watson.ibm.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mac7.crc.mcw.edu Status: O X-Status: gresh@watson.ibm.com (donna gresh) wrote: > > I bought some tuberous begonia tubers yesterday, and > after I got home I realized I'd forgotten to ask which way > they go... Dent or concave side up is correct. Sometimes you'll see the start of some growth in the "dent", but often times not. Also a hint: When sprouting tuberous begonias, just barely cover with soil until the tuber has sprouted a few inches, then plant deeper. Don Martinson dmartin@cdmas.crc.mcw.edu From rappleye@felix.kodak.com Thu Mar 16 00:42:23 EST 1995 Article: 58538 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!clpd-newsserver!newsserver.pixel.kodak.com!newsserver.rdcs.Kodak.COM!NewsWatcher!user From: rappleye@felix.kodak.com (RevDrFreak) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Exploding Wisteria??!? Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 14 Mar 1995 18:16:18 GMT Organization: Church of the Holy Moose Lines: 10 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 150.102.161.162 Status: O X-Status: OK troops, here's the situation...here in Upstate NY, just south of Lake Ontario, for some strange reason it's not snowing...in fact the temperature is in the low 70's. While suffering a severe spring fever attack, walking around the yard to see how much damage was done by the mice and the deer, we notice that the Wisteria Tree is making popping noises every couple of minutes as the seed pods explode. Anybody heard of this before? Is my tree a candidate for the X-Files? RevDrFreak 'foot soldier From devine@daisy.moffitt.usf.edu Thu Mar 16 00:42:24 EST 1995 Article: 58539 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.sprintlink.net!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!mother.usf.edu!poppy From: devine@daisy.moffitt.usf.edu (david devine) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: squash bugs Date: 14 Mar 1995 18:40:29 GMT Organization: University of South Florida Lines: 34 Message-ID: <3k4nut$adi@mother.usf.edu> References: <3k2bsg$b40@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3k2n02$108@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 131.247.184.37 X-Newsreader: News Xpress Version 1.0 Beta #3 Status: O X-Status: In article <3k2n02$108@ixnews1.ix.netcom.com>, aford@ix.netcom.com (Anita Ford) wrote: >In <3k2bsg$b40@newsbf02.news.aol.com> simonsfam@aol.com (Simons Fam) >writes: > >> >>Does anybody know of a good organic method of getting rid of squash >bugs >>besides hand picking? They totally wiped out my pumpkins and zucchini >last >>year. I tried using the usual Safer products on them in addition to >hand >>picking but I couldn't keep up with them. >> >>Thanks, >>Kay >> > >I was fighting them last year as well. They are nasty creatures, aren't >they? > >Anyway, I read about (and tried) dusting the plants with wood ash. It >seemed to help. Since wood ash effects the ph, however, I wasn't sure >how much I could use. > I got hit last year as well. I read a little while ago that planting radishes among the squash plants helps. Leave the radishes, don't harvest them. Also heard that aluminium foil may deter them, although I'm not sure how or why. I'm going to try these ideas this year. They seem safe and cheap, and if they don't work, at least I'll get some radishes . david From Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us Thu Mar 16 00:42:25 EST 1995 Article: 58540 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!news.sprintlink.net!redstone.interpath.net!aicrtp!Uaic Newsgroups: rec.gardens Message-ID: <75@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us> References: <9503080022592.The_Win-D.artbieker@delphi.com><3joc9a$k0i@parsifal.nando.net> Reply-To: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) From: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 19:54:15 GMT Subject: Re: Is "Roundup" Safe Way To Kill A Lawn Lines: 17 Status: RO X-Status: Well I think the question should be what type of grass do you want to kill??? IF you are trying to kill a warm weather grass such as zoysia or centipede. Then you could always fertilize it now so the stress will kill it. Warm weather grasses fescue etc. You could fertilize it in the summer and again let the weather and stress kill it!! The big thing with roundup is you have to make sure the plant is actively growing!! Spraying roundup on a plant that is dormant will not kill it!!! So make sure your plant is actively growing make sure it is not going to rain!!! Within two days of applying roundup and your lawn should be dead within two weeks. From Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us Thu Mar 16 00:42:26 EST 1995 Article: 58541 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!news.sprintlink.net!redstone.interpath.net!aicrtp!Uaic Newsgroups: rec.gardens Message-ID: <76@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us> Reply-To: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) From: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 19:57:59 GMT Subject: bacillus thuringiensis Lines: 3 Status: O X-Status: can be purchased as a liquid or dust. I prefer the liquid as i can spray it around and under the plants. Both will wash off after a rain. I have used BT now for two years and swear on it!!!. From Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us Thu Mar 16 00:42:29 EST 1995 Article: 58542 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!redstone.interpath.net!aicrtp!Uaic Newsgroups: rec.gardens Message-ID: <77@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us> Reply-To: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) From: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 20:04:28 GMT Subject: Re: Natural repellants for cats Lines: 1 Status: O X-Status: Dried blood will scare cats away but dogs like it!!! From Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us Thu Mar 16 00:42:30 EST 1995 Article: 58543 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!redstone.interpath.net!aicrtp!Uaic Newsgroups: rec.gardens Message-ID: <78@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us> References: <3jse4c$3i6@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) From: Uaic@aicrtp.aic.rtp.nc.us (Dick Gilman) Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 20:08:30 GMT Subject: Re: Camellias Lines: 20 Status: O X-Status: What type of camellia is it? Sassanqua or japonica if it blooms in winter it probably is japonica. (i think) Now camellias are acid loving plants. They can get NO WINTER MORNING SUN!!!! That is no sun up until about 9-10 am. If they are getting this sun it will cause problems for the plant and stress it and cause it to loose its buds. The japonica problems is when the winter starts to warm up the buds try to blossom and then a cold snap comes and they fall off!!! So try a sassanqua camellia they bloom at a different time and are as not as likely to have this problem. Good luck. In article <3jse4c$3i6@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, JCannoy (jcannoy@aol.com) writes: >I've had my camellia for about 2 years now and each winter it produces >buds which never bloom. I don't know if the location is too shady or if >it is the soil (which I plan to check soon). I would appreciate any >information to help my camellia produce flowers! > > From bz2v@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU Thu Mar 16 00:42:32 EST 1995 Article: 58544 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!poe.acc.Virginia.EDU!bz2v From: bz2v@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Boyd Zenner) Subject: Re: Wayside Gardens X-Nntp-Posting-Host: poe.acc.virginia.edu Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: uva References: <1995Mar13.154353.11366@news.rlcn.rl.af.mil> Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 19:09:55 GMT Lines: 21 Status: O X-Status: welshg@rl.af.mil writes: > Prices to high! Quality too low. That's my experience. But they have great > pictures to help you through the winter! > > Glenn > > I agree with the above. Wayside is a tantalizing source book, and they boast a broad variety of plant materials. Still, their offerings within a particular species are quite modest when compared to specialist nurseries, which also are often considerably less expensive and can offer you more knowledgeable advice if you phone them. One thing Wayside _does_ do, apparently, is carry huge stocks of each offering: I have never found them to be out of anything I have ordered from them. Boyd Zone 7 (Central VA) From ssombati@gems.vcu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:42:33 EST 1995 Article: 58545 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!gems.vcu.edu!ssombati From: ssombati@gems.vcu.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: State Arboretum of Virginia Message-ID: <1995Mar14.140923.553@gems.vcu.edu> Date: 14 Mar 95 14:09:22 -0400 References: <3jvmuj$oje@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Organization: Medical College of Virginia Lines: 12 Status: O X-Status: On my recent skiing trip to White Tail near Haggerstown. We passed an Arboretum which had a sign "Arboretum of Virginia". Is that the State Arboretum? It is certainly not well known. Yes I think we need all the publicity we can get. SS In article <3jvmuj$oje@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, jpgallatin@aol.com (JPGallatin) writes: > We strongly support the State Arboretum of Virginia. We would like to use > Internet to spread the word about major events at the Arboretum. Any > other ideas? From rev@tadpole.co.uk Thu Mar 16 00:42:34 EST 1995 Article: 58546 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!pipex!sirius.tadpole.co.uk!usenet From: Richard Vialls Newsgroups: uk.environment,rec.gardens Subject: Re: Cat Litter Disposal? Date: 14 Mar 1995 09:54:00 GMT Organization: Tadpole Technology plc Lines: 14 Message-ID: <3k3p3o$6ae@sirius.tadpole.co.uk> References: <795049082snz@wmute.demon.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: rev-1.dev.tadpole.co.uk Status: O X-Status: rg@wmute.demon.co.uk (Robert Gilmore) wrote: > I have two cats and want to know the best way of disposing of their used > cat litter. It's Fuller Earth stuff. Is it any use in the garden, or can it > be composted or something. Or should I continue to send out out with the trash. Why not buy the compressed sawdust pellets. I use these and find they are even better than Fuller's Earth as they smell less. My cat seems to prefer them as well. They can be composted, flushed down the toilet, or burned and they also have the advantage that they are made from a waste product - so being more environmentally freindly. Richard Vialls (posting as an individual) From donj@u.washington.edu Thu Mar 16 00:42:35 EST 1995 Article: 58547 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!nntp.cac.washington.edu!carson.u.washington.edu!donj From: Donald Jorgensen Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: I want invasive plants Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 10:44:29 -0800 Organization: University of Washington Lines: 6 Message-ID: References: <3jkgsm$hqv@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jlpku$rcr@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: carson.u.washington.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In-Reply-To: Status: O X-Status: Bishops Weed is an attractive ground cover which will try to take over the world as well. Don Jorgensen From weir@stripe.Colorado.EDU Thu Mar 16 00:42:38 EST 1995 Article: 58548 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!ub!csn!tali.hsc.colorado.edu!boulder!stripe.Colorado.EDU!weir From: weir@stripe.Colorado.EDU (WEIR ANDREW L) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Avoiding / treating damping off Date: 9 Mar 95 17:43:46 GMT Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder Lines: 27 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: stripe.colorado.edu X-Newsreader: NN version 6.5.0 #8 (NOV) Status: O X-Status: arvesen@tivoli.com (Ralph Arvesen) writes: >What exactly is damping off and how can it be treated and/or avoided? More >specifically, I am trying to germinate Texas Madrone (Arbutus xalapensis), >Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis), and Mountain Laurel (Sophora secundiflora) >seeds. Thanks. >... Ralph Arvesen (Austin, TX) >... arvesen@tivoli.com Damping off is any of a number of fungal diseases that can attack seedlings. The classic sign is that seedlings fall over like they've been felled by tiny little lumberjacks. When you pull them up you'll see that the stem around the soil line looks thin and wasted in comparison to the rest. Damping off can also affect seedlings before they sprout in which case you never see anything. Since these fungal spores are omnipresent in the air, there's no certain way to prevent them zapping your babies. Things you can do to minimise the risk includealways using sterilized media and containers, and ensuring good air flow around the seedlings. You can buy sterile potting mix, or sterilize your own by baking it (stinks your kitchen out for days), sterilize containers etc. with bleach solution, and use fans to move the air around (good for the seedlings anyway as it promotes strong stem development). Also, don't keep the soil surface too moist as this promotes fungi. Hope this helps. Andy From weir@stripe.Colorado.EDU Thu Mar 16 00:42:39 EST 1995 Article: 58549 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!hookup!news.umbc.edu!eff!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!ub!csn!tali.hsc.colorado.edu!boulder!stripe.Colorado.EDU!weir From: weir@stripe.Colorado.EDU (WEIR ANDREW L) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: vegetable plants for containers Date: 9 Mar 95 17:56:51 GMT Organization: University of Colorado at Boulder Lines: 18 Message-ID: References: <3jn1r6$4au@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: stripe.colorado.edu X-Newsreader: NN version 6.5.0 #8 (NOV) Status: O X-Status: lexloci1@aol.com (LEX LOCI 1) writes: Depends upon the size of the containers - if they're large enough you can grow anything. There are many smaller or dwarf varieties available of most common vegetable crops. I'm growing Tom Thumb lettuce (matures about 6 inches across), and Patio Hybrid II cherry tomatoes in some smaller containers, as well as a whole range of standard tomato and pepper varieties in larger containers. Some veggies, such as broccoli, seem to me to be a waste of space - they can grow exceedingly large and take up valuable room (always the big constraint in a container garden). Most herbs do very well in containers (some, like dill, do need more room as there tap roots are quite long), and you can keep them going for years (perennials, anyway) by bringing them in for the winter. >Can anyone give me some good varieties of >vegetables(tomatoes,greens,herbs,spinach) that will grow well in >containers in an urban garden,specifically Philadelphia? From jware@cdpa.state.ms.us Thu Mar 16 00:42:40 EST 1995 Article: 58550 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!usenet From: Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Katz.. Date: Tue, 14 Mar 95 12:48:01 CST Organization: Mississippi State University Lines: 31 Message-ID: <58617.jware@sun1.cdpa.state.ms.us> Reply-To: NNTP-Posting-Host: dial03.cdpa.state.ms.us X-Minuet-Version: Minuet1.0_Beta_16 X-POPMail-Charset: English Status: O X-Status: >> Are there any natural ways to discourage the cats from entering his garden? > >I've always found that a noisy dog works :) > >When I used to let my cats out the neighbours dog used to do a pretty good >job of keeping them on my side of the fence. When my dog was out as well >the cats stayed on the porch, or came in. Not necessairly. My cat regulary mangles a noisy cocker spainel next door... He also keeps varmits out- and other cats. He's a big yellow tabby that doesn't go far afield and has brought me rabbits, squirrels, mice, moles, snakes and an occassional blue jay. If he's brought me all of this lot, how much has he kept for himself? -James (& Booger the terrorist tabby) ============================================================================ _______ / | James R. Ware / | / | jware@cdpa.state.ms.us MS Dept. of Archives | | Systems Administrator \ | 100 S. State St. | | PHONE: (601) 359-6888 P.O. Box 571 / | FAX: (601) 359-6905 Jackson, MS 39205-0571 / | |______ | / | \____| ============================================================================ From ar367@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Thu Mar 16 00:42:42 EST 1995 Article: 58551 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!ub!netfs.dnd.ca!dgbt!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!ar367 From: ar367@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Ken Toews) Subject: Re: Is "Roundup" Safe Way To Kill A Lawn Message-ID: Sender: ar367@freenet3.carleton.ca (Ken Toews) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 20:44:09 GMT Lines: 175 Status: RO X-Status: The following is from a Monsanto flyer -Microbes break down the active ingredient of roundup in the soil. >>>>>>>>>>>>note: active ingredient<<<<<<<< -Roundup wont leach into the soil.....because it binds tightly to soil particles -Roundup does not give off fumes or odours. -Roundup works by stopping the formulation of certain amino acids (protein building blocks) found only in plants. >>>>>>>>>>>Roundup is still readily absorbed thru the skin, and excreted thru the urine. If you like roundup you will say it causes no problems on the way, if you dont like roundup this will concern you<<<<<<<<< -Roundup is safe to humans, pets and wildlife when used as directed. The following problems warrant concern when Roundup is considered for use: 1. PERSISTENCE. Although the claim is often made that Roundup is inactivated rapidly in soil, it is more accurate to say that it is usually absorbed to soil components. A sandy loam treated with glyphosate at recommended application rates (e.g., 2, 5, and 10 ug/g soil) was found to drastically reduce nitrogen fixation, growth, and nodulation of subterranean clover/Rhizobium trifolium/ planted 120 days after glyphosate treatment. Glyphosate clearly remains active in soils that do not adsorb it readily. Damage to vine maple and bigleaf maple was found to increase during the second year following treatment with glyphosate, indicating that glyphosate persists for extended periods in plants. 2. PHYTOTOXICITY. Because glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide, any desired vegetation must be completely protected from glyphosate drive, mist, or drip. As Monsanto notes in its Rounup label guide, "...minute quantities of this herbicide can cause severe damage or destruction to the crop, plants, or other areas on which treatment was not intended." 3. TOXICITY OF 'INERT' INGREDIENTS. There is no way of knowing what you are applying when you use roundup. According to the 1994 Solaris Product Label guide published by Monsanto available at 1-800-225-2883, its free, page 150 Round up weed and grass killer is 99.04% Inert ingredients. For a complete rundown on what that 99.04% of the product could be get: The Secret Hazards of Pesticides: Inert Ingredients. It is available for free from the New York State Department of Law. 1-518-474-5481 4. TESTING. [The article explains that testing on glyphosate by itself is inadequate since the inert ingredients are very important to making Roundup work. Most test results are "unpublished and developed by Monsanto or laboratories hired by Monsanto." Other points are made about lack of cancer testing and links to "human damage" including "conjunctivitis (inflammation oft he eyelid and eyeball mucous membrane), dermatitis (inflammation of the skin), and severe flu-like symptoms following exposure to glyphosate. Of 143 pesticides reported for causing human illness in California in 1986, glyphosate was fourth in the number of incidents reported." No further details on this statistic are given. A "Roundup Information Packet" containing a series of articles on Roundup is available for $10.50 postpaid from NCAP; P.O. Box 1393; Eugene OR 97440. A file of these and additional glyphsate/Roundup articles is maintained at NCAP; these can be copied at 10 cents/page. >From "Roundup, Vision, POEA, and 1,4-Dioxane: Why Full Formulations Are the Problem." Written by Mary O'Brien--a staff scientist for NCAP. Vol. 9, No. 4 of the Journal of Pesticide Reform. When a letter by four Japanese emergency medicine professionals appeared in the February 6, 1988 issue of the American medical journal, The Lancet, a Washington toxicology consultant, David Monroe, took note. The Japanese authors were noting that an "inert ingredient" in the herbicide Roundup (rather than the identified "active" ingredient, glyphosate) accounts for the acute toxicity they had found in patients poisoned (some fatally) by Roundup (JPR 8(1):30). Symptoms included gastrointestinal ("GI" -ed) pain and vomiting, swelling of the lungs and pneumonia, reduction of blood pressure, clouding of consciousness, and red blood cell destruction. The so-called "inert ingredient," polyoxyethyleneamine (POEA), actually refers to a family of chemicals. It is added to Roundup and Vision herbicide formulations as a surfactant, an ingredient that will help evenly spread the active ingredient, glyphosate, on target plants. The Japanese researchers noted that the acute lethal dose of POEA is less than one-third (i.e., POEA is three times as toxic) that of Roundup, and that POEA belongs to a class of surfactants that have been reported to cause adverse GI and central nervous system effects and damage to red blood cells. As POEA does not appear on the Roundup label (supposedly protected, as an inert, from public disclosure under the U.S. pesticide law...), Monroe first learned of its presence in Roundup through the Lancet letter. Monroe recalled a U.S. EPA memorandum that discussed the presence of 1,4-dioxane in two polyalkoxylated polyamine products ... manufactured by the Henkel Corporation. Knowing that POEA is a polyalkoxylated amine, Monroe suspected that 1,4-dioxane might be present as a contaminant of POEA. [ the article now describes the side effects of 1,4-dioxane, which include liver and kidney damage, and cancer in laboratory animals. "The liver and kidney damage can occur regardless of the route of 1,4-dioxane exposure (inhalation, oral ingestion, and/or skin application)." This section concludes with this statement: 'The International Agency for Research on Cancer indicates that evidence is "sufficient" to know that 1,4-dioxane causes cancer in animals and the U.S EPA regards 1,4-dioxane as a probable human carcinogen.' Researchers in British Columbia went on to test Vision (Canada's version of Roundup) checking for 1,4-dioxane contamination. From a 250ml sample, the CANTEST lab detected 350 parts per million 1,4-dioxane using a purge and trap method. That level is equivalent to .35 percent. now quoting again from the article: ] A 1982 EPA memo ... also discussed 1,4-dioxane as being present in dichloroethyl ether. The 1982 EPA memo ... had been prompted by concern that 1,4-dioxane had been found in dichloroethyl ether at 0.42 percent and 0.55 percent. Under "comments/recommendations" in the memo, the EPA noted that the manufacturer of the contaminated dichloroethyl ether "reported that its employees and customers were being notified of the presence of 1,4-dioxane in dichloroethyl ether. In addition, the company reported that its current safety precautions include 'body-protective clothing and boots, eye protection, and monitoring of air levels of dichloroethyl ether.'" Users of Roundup and Vision are not informed that the formulation contains either POEA or 1,4-dioxane. Roundup is widely used by home owners wearing no particular protective clothing, and the label merely states, "Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing because of possible (eye and skin) irritation." The presence of 1,4-dioxane in Vision (and presumably in Roundup) is a classic example of the following: 1. Full formulations, "inert" ingredients, and contaminants, not merely the so-called "active" ingredient, can cause cancer and other adverse chronic effects; their exemption from testing for chronic toxicity is indefensible. 2. The current classification by the EPA of POEA as a "List 3" inert ingredient ("inert of unknown toxicity"), subject neither to listing on the label nor toxicological testing requirements, is indefensible. 3. Estimating the toxicity of glyphosate alone is meaningless when a full formulation (e.g., Roundup, Vision) containing POEA, 1,4-dioxane, and other unlisted ingredients and contaminants is the mixture to which people and the environment will be exposed. What you don't know can hurt you. -- Ken Toews Yes son, when I was a boy, if you wanted to talk Nepean Ontario Canada to someone you actually looked them in the eye, not that anyone actually liked it, but yup, those rumours were true, people touched too.... From bae@oci.utoronto.ca Thu Mar 16 00:42:43 EST 1995 Article: 58552 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!oci!bae From: bae@oci.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: Saving Seeds Not Used This Year Message-ID: Sender: news@oci.utoronto.ca Organization: Ontario Cancer Institute, University of Toronto References: <3jtht3$c0s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jtnae$ast@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> <1735FF367S86.LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 22:52:11 GMT Lines: 26 Status: O X-Status: In article <1735FF367S86.LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU> LEAPDJWV@VM.TEMPLE.EDU writes: >I've started some seeds with plans for more. I won't use all >the seeds in a packet. Some will be used for successive planting >but what to do with the leftovers? How do I store them? > >I understand seeds can be used a year later and in the past I was >given seeds saved by a friend's father years ago. Do seed savers >have some magic process? Garden seeds kept under cool and dry conditions will keep their viability for many years. I store mine in a box in the fridge and have had good germination for most seeds as old as 5-10 years. Tomatoes and squash are particularly long-lived. Onions are supposed to lose viability quickly but mine are still ok after 3 or more years. Some people store their seeds in a jar in the fridge and put some milk powder wrapped in tissue in the jar as a desiccant. Don't freeze your seeds unless you can be sure they are bone-dry. When you take your seeds out of the fridge, be careful on humid days because moisture will condense on the cool surface. Don't take the whole packet out to the garden, just shake out what you need and put the rest back in the fridge. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From bae@oci.utoronto.ca Thu Mar 16 00:42:44 EST 1995 Article: 58553 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!utnut!oci!bae From: bae@oci.utoronto.ca (Beverly Erlebacher) Subject: Re: Plants from vegetable seeds?? Message-ID: Sender: news@oci.utoronto.ca Organization: Ontario Cancer Institute, University of Toronto References: Date: Mon, 13 Mar 1995 22:59:02 GMT Lines: 23 Status: O X-Status: In article Marc Scholl writes: >This may sound like a naive question, but what are the reasons, if any, >that you can't start plants from their the seeds of vegetables (peas from >nts and cucumbers) bought at frut and vegetable stands rather >than from packages of seeds? Or can you? You can, as long as the seeds are mature. Many vegetables are sold at a stage before the seeds mature, including fresh peas and cucumbers. You can usually save seed from squash, melons, tomatoes, ripe (not green) peppers. Dry seeds such as beans, peas and lentils are usually viable. You can't count on the seedlings producing fruit resembling the one you took the seeds out of, but every time I've tried it, they've been just fine. The variety may not be suited to your climate or growing conditions. Don't save seed from diseased-looking or defective vegetables. It can be a fun thing to try. I have a strain of intense yellow bell pepper and one of bright orange sheep-nose pepper that I started from fruits. The latter was a mutant in a bushel of dark red ones. Beverly Erlebacher Toronto, Ontario Canada From Jeff.Cook@FtCollinsCO.NCR.COM Thu Mar 16 00:42:46 EST 1995 Article: 58554 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!southwind.net!jupiter.WichitaKS.NCR.COM!jupiter.wichitaks.ncr.com!Jeff.Cook From: Jeff.Cook@FtCollinsCO.NCR.COM (Jeff Cook) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Organic alternative for spraying trees? Date: 14 Mar 1995 21:57:22 GMT Organization: Symbios Logic, Ft. Collins, CO Lines: 15 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: bears.ncrmicro.ncr.com Status: RO X-Status: Last summer, my peach and plum trees came down with a serious case of galls on the leaves. My local garden center recommended that I wait until this spring, before the leaves came out, to spray my trees with Dursban or Sevin. Well, I went down there to pick some up today, but realized I absolutely _hated_ the idea of using chemical pesticides on my property. My garden is completely organic, and I'm trying to reduce the chemicals I'm using on my lawn. I am willing to use Sevin if I have to, but I decided to wait until I heard what ideas you rec.gardeners might come up with as an alternative. So, do you have any suggestions on how to deal with galls on fruit trees, or am I going to have to wage chemical warfare? -- Jeff Cook Jeff.Cook@FtCollinsCO.NCR.com From jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org Thu Mar 16 00:42:47 EST 1995 Article: 58555 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!overload.lbl.gov!agate!tcsi.tcs.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!bardeen.physics.csbsju.edu!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly Distribution: world Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: HELP WITH VERMI-COMP˙˙˙˙˙ From: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) Message-ID: <36.11762.2599@granite.mn.org> References: <3jvqgo$pbo@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 07:55:00 +0600 Organization: Granite City Connection St. Cloud MN 612-654-8372 Lines: 22 Status: O X-Status: Tigibson writes: References: <3jvqgo$pbo@newsbf02.news.aol.com> TT> i just started my worm bin and i need to know how much moisture to TT> provide. the book i've read is really unclear about it. help!! As much water as possible, but make sure that the bin drains. Standing water at the bottom of the bin can go anaerobic, and the resulting liquid is odorous and toxic to worms. Mr Compost~~~ Jim~ McNelly jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org * RM 1.3 02460 * Taglines? We doan need no stinking taglines! ------------------============<>=============----------------- Granite City Connection (612) 654-8372 28.8K 3 Lines Email: jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly) ------------------============<>=============----------------- From mitchelb@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu Thu Mar 16 00:42:49 EST 1995 Article: 58556 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!admaix.sunydutchess.edu!ub!netfs.dnd.ca!dgbt!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!freenet3.scri.fsu.edu!freenet2.scri.fsu.edu!mitchelb From: mitchelb@freenet2.scri.fsu.edu (Belinda Mitchell) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: shrub roses Date: 14 Mar 1995 20:17:07 GMT Organization: Tallahassee Free-Net Lines: 10 Message-ID: <3k4tk3$m6d@freenet3.scri.fsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet2.scri.fsu.edu Status: O X-Status: Hello All, Can anyone recommend some type of rose shrub to be used as a privacy hedge. I am looking for one that grows at least five feet in height. What might I expect in width? How easy is it to grow and maintain? How long does it take to become a solid hedge? I am in the northern part of Florida. Thanks, Belinda From d_swartz@gate.net Thu Mar 16 00:42:50 EST 1995 Article: 58557 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.msfc.nasa.gov!cs.utk.edu!gatech!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!tequesta.gate.net!dffl2-18.gate.net!user From: d_swartz@gate.net (Debbie DeNeese) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Coffee Grounds Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 15:20:39 -1812 Lines: 22 Message-ID: References: <3ja6u7$30s@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: dffl2-18.gate.net Status: O X-Status: In article , cbrossma@advtech.uswest.com (Craig Brossman) wrote: > In article <3ja6u7$30s@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, msalexandr@aol.com > (MSAlexandr) wrote: > > > Are coffee grounds good for anything in the garden? > > -- > I asked this group about using grounds for acid loving plants, particularly > blueberry bushes. I will put my grounds around the base of the plants this > season. Is the benificial result of this amendment a lowering of the soil pH? If so, I'm gonna start drinking more coffee for my azaleas' sake... =http://inca.gate.net:80/~d_swartz/neurodisc/html/neurodisc.html= Debbie DeNeese Email: d_swartz@gate.net Neurodisc Records, Inc. (finger for pgp public key) 450 N. Park Road Suite 700 (305) 963-0555 [voice] Hollywood, FL 33021 (305) 964-1117 [fax] -= http://dswartz.dffl.gate.net/neurodisc/html/neurodisc.html =- From ssanders@umich.edu Thu Mar 16 00:42:51 EST 1995 Article: 58558 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!news.itd.umich.edu!usenet From: Susan Sanders Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Odd Trenches in Lawn? Date: 14 Mar 1995 20:46:22 GMT Organization: The University of Michigan Lines: 7 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k4vau$hl9@lastactionhero.rs.itd.umich.edu> References: <3k4d4t$tu@info1.sdrc.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 141.211.54.249 X-Newsreader: Nuntius Version 1.2 X-XXDate: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 20:48:19 GMT Status: O X-Status: In article <3k4d4t$tu@info1.sdrc.com> lisa kerns, drlkrns@sdrc.com writes: >what their holes look like. So what is doing this? Maybe the same whatever that's making those mysterious crop circles in England?!? Hmm?!? (I have no idea). -Sue Sanders From richc@phantom.pac.sc.ti.com Thu Mar 16 00:42:53 EST 1995 Article: 58559 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!mcrcr6!cmcl2!panix!news.mathworks.com!news.alpha.net!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.ti.com!news.itg.ti.com!phantom!richc Newsgroups: news.groups,rec.gardens Subject: Re: 2nd RFD: rec.plants.* Message-ID: <3k1u2l$5bn@dsk92.itg.ti.com> From: richc@phantom.pac.sc.ti.com (Richard Campbell) Date: 13 Mar 1995 17:06:29 GMT Sender: richc@phantom (Richard Campbell 575-4122) References: <3jtt5i$t0j@gold.interlog.com> <3k039c$6j6$1@mhadg.production.compuserve.com> Distribution: world Organization: TEXAS INSTRUMENTS NNTP-Posting-Host: phantom.itg.ti.com Lines: 20 Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.groups:114505 rec.gardens:58559 Status: O X-Status: In article <3k039c$6j6$1@mhadg.production.compuserve.com>, Cheryl Netter <71073.1475@CompuServe.COM> writes: snipped |> |> Well Richard, if your so confident that this is the right thing to do, |> then we'll just wait for the vote and let the democratic process do |> it's thing. |> |> Christopher J. Netter |> |> P.S. Oh and by the way Rick, I've been called far worse things than |> this, but I do believe that you owe Kay Klier an apology. Ohhh! I missed this whole deal (and I thought I was keeping up with is so well). What did Rick S. say to our beloved Kay? -- Rich Campbell richc@phantom.itg.ti.com From jrwoodworth@mmm.com Thu Mar 16 00:42:54 EST 1995 Article: 58560 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!mr.net!dawn.mmm.com!JRW63025!jrwoodworth From: jrwoodworth@mmm.com (John Woodworth) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: SO WHAT'S BLOOMING? IT'S Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 14:38:25 Organization: 3M Lines: 28 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <9503100218241624@southwest.org> NNTP-Posting-Host: jrw63025.mmm.com X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] Status: O X-Status: In article <9503100218241624@southwest.org> jen.mayer@southwest.org (Jen Mayer) writes: >From: jen.mayer@southwest.org (Jen Mayer) >Subject: Re: SO WHAT'S BLOOMING? IT'S >Date: Fri, 10 Mar 1995 02:36:00 GMT >BH> From: bhieber@AdminBldg.Lan1.UManitoba.CA (Brian Hiebert) >BH> Do you people know how cruel it is to be posting all of your 'so >BH> whats blooming in your garden?' messages? I can't even THINK about >BH> planting for 2.5 months minimum! Mean! Mean! Mean! Brian >This is *really* evil then... Last weekend I picked an entire salad out >of my garden: Lettuce (four different varieties), chives, carrots & >radishes! >Hey, if you want to grow stuff year round, come on out to sunny >California... (or eat your heart out!) You are wicked. You deserve a nice cold snowstorm. I hope you're transferred to North Dakota (like Minnesota, only worse) someday. ;) John ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Imitation is the sincerest form of parody." Richard Corliss ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From odinthor@csulb.edu Thu Mar 16 00:42:55 EST 1995 Article: 58561 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!csulb.edu!odinthor From: odinthor@csulb.edu (Brent Dickerson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Natural repellants for cats Date: 14 Mar 1995 20:30:28 GMT Organization: Cal State Long Beach Lines: 13 Message-ID: <3k4ud5$c07@garuda.csulb.edu> References: <3jprfm$eb4@archive.ny.jpmorgan.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: tern.csulb.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: Jeanne Sweeney (sweeney_jeanne@jpmorgan.com) wrote: : I have a friend with a stray cat problem in his neighborhood. : (There are dozens.) He doesn't mind the cats but their urine seems : to kill some of his plants. Are there any natural ways to discourage : the cats from entering his garden? This sounds pretty raunchy, I know, but it works on most cats: Kill snails where you don't want cats to be, and leave the corpses there. Eeeeuuuwwwww! But the cats stay away (so would I)! Best Wishes, --BCD From wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu Thu Mar 16 00:42:56 EST 1995 Article: 58562 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!gopher.cs.uofs.edu!jaguar.uofs.edu!wallacec1 From: wallacec1@jaguar.uofs.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Hydrangea pruning time? Date: 14 Mar 95 16:42:57 EST Organization: University of Scranton Lines: 7 Message-ID: <1995Mar14.164257.1@jaguar.uofs.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: jaguar.cs.uofs.edu Status: O X-Status: I was out working in the garden today (FINALLY!!!!), happily pruning down the buddleia, giving the ornamental grasses haircuts--but I stopped short at my hydrangea--should I be cutting it now, or in the fall? (I think it's a PG--it came unlabeled from the nursery, but that's what it looks most like in books.) Carol Zone 5/6 From jojo4fur@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:42:58 EST 1995 Article: 58563 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jojo4fur@aol.com (JOJO4FUR) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Least liked plant Date: 14 Mar 1995 17:41:00 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 16 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k561s$6a4@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: jojo4fur@aol.com (JOJO4FUR) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: My least liked plant has been miscanthus sinesis gracemillus or that is what I think the spelling goes like... This is a lovely, tall ornamental grass with a height of about five feet and that spread when I finally got reid of my ten plants of about 6 feet each. Every late winter they need to be cut down and a chain saw is needed to get that done as they grow wider. The slender stalks cut your skin as you gather the pieces. The year I tried to let them go natural and neglected to cut them the wind carried the dry pieces across the neighbors yard. Unlike leaves, everyone knows which homeowner is so irresponsible. The worst part was digging them up. The roots were so tight they held the earth underneath and it was too much for me. too much for the men I hired too. Finally the men used chains wrapped around the grasses and pulled them out with their truck. And they looked so delicate and graceful. From warden@tacos.caltech.edu Thu Mar 16 00:43:00 EST 1995 Article: 58564 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!fonebone.patnet.caltech.edu!user From: warden@tacos.caltech.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help! gophers? moles? Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 13:58:38 -0800 Organization: CIT Lines: 41 Message-ID: References: <3jf4f4$qbd@martha.utk.edu> <3jt7tc$gi4@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: fonebone.patnet.caltech.edu Status: O X-Status: In article <3jt7tc$gi4@news-s01.ny.us.ibm.net>, accord@ibm.net wrote: " In <3jf4f4$qbd@martha.utk.edu>, uther@martha.utcc.utk.edu () writes: " >-------- " > " >i hope someone out there in cyberspace can help me. last summer i bought a " >new house. this fall i planted several hundred bulbs so i've been looking " >forward to spring. spring is here (here is knoxville, tn, usa) and several " >(but less than i had expected) things were starting to come up - and a few " >to bloom - when disaster struck... the new shoots were eaten below ground " >level! just a few chewed shoots left in a small hole. the holes range in " >size from around an inch to two or three inches in diameter. there are lots " >of mounds in the affected areas. " > " > My sister and her husband had an awful problem when they were in the UK. About an acre, and full of soft dirt mounds. He came up with a propane tank and regulator hooked up to a 1/4" tube. The end of the tube was pinched off to keep it from clogging, and had a few holes drilled towards the tip. The probe was inserted into a tunnel, and the tank turned on. He said it worked, and never blew himself up! (DON'T smoke!!) so much for my two cents. And I wouldn't advise doing this, of course! -- ********************************************************* If you're not liberal when you're young, you have no heart. If you're not conservative when you grow up, you have no brain. -Sir Winston Churchill or -George Bernard Shaw or -Someone From ssunden@ops.ophth.uiowa.edu Thu Mar 16 00:43:01 EST 1995 Article: 58565 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.uiowa.edu!genome8.ped-gen.uiowa.edu!user From: ssunden@ops.ophth.uiowa.edu (Sara Sunden) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: heating cables Followup-To: rec.gardens Date: 14 Mar 1995 22:43:03 GMT Organization: uiowa Lines: 13 Distribution: world Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: genome8.ped-gen.uiowa.edu Status: O X-Status: Having seen on one of the gardening oriented PBS shows, the use of a heating cable (not a mat) to start seeds, we purchased one to try. Our intention was to use it as I thought they did on the show, which was to coil it through vermiculite under our planting trays. The instructions with the coil claim that it is ineffectual- and that the heat will not be transferred through the plastic. Anyone have any experience/suggestions using heating cables. We start all our seeds in small square pots for later transplanting to 6-packs. Sara Sunden From seremjia@it.uwp.edu Thu Mar 16 00:43:03 EST 1995 Article: 58566 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.moneng.mei.com!uwm.edu!cs.uwp.edu!it!seremjia From: seremjia@it.uwp.edu (Peggy Seremjian) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Help with VERMI-composting Date: 14 Mar 1995 23:18:38 GMT Organization: University of Wisconsin - Parkside Lines: 17 Message-ID: <3k588e$9dk@cs.uwp.edu> References: <1995Mar13.152841.40164@cobra.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: it.uwp.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Status: O X-Status: : > : > Can the compost be used directly on my house plants? : Personally, I wouldn't. Worms in the roots of houseplants usually cause : trouble. what kind of trouble is that? We are talking "compost worms" here (_lumbricus rubellus_ or _lumbricus foetida_) aren't we? Not larvae. : It's different outside.. but the environment in a pot isn't : exactly natural. true. Seldom enough food to sustain a worm population in a contianer that small. : Compost tea or steamed compost might be a better choice. or just the castings themselves Peg From sacks@notime.enet.dec.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:05 EST 1995 Article: 58567 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!caen!crl.dec.com!crl.dec.com!jac.zko.dec.com!notime.enet.dec.com!sacks From: sacks@notime.enet.dec.com (Gerald Sacks) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Tree tomatoes Date: 13 MAR 95 10:22:44 Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation Lines: 11 Message-ID: <3k1npq$9nm@jac.zko.dec.com> References: <3jshbh$4ac@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: NOTIME Status: O X-Status: In article <3jshbh$4ac@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, billyfish@aol.com (BillyFish) writes... >What can anyone tell me about tree tomatoes? >From what I've read, they're not tomatoes at all. The fruits look a little like tomatoes, but don't taste like them. They're a tender perennial from New Zealand called something Tamarillo. Unless you live in a warm climate, you'll have to bring them indoors in the winter. Gerald Sacks sacks@notime.enet.dec.com From adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu Thu Mar 16 00:43:07 EST 1995 Article: 58568 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!insosf1.infonet.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!vtaix.cc.vt.edu!adamf From: adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu (Adam Finkelstein) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: rec.plants.* VOTE soon Date: 15 Mar 1995 01:15:19 GMT Organization: Virginia Tech Lines: 11 Message-ID: <3k5f37$5su@solaris.cc.vt.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: vtaix.cc.vt.edu NNTP-Posting-User: adamf Status: RO X-Status: Soon the cfv for rec.plants.* will be appearing. You need to vote on this. If you don't vote, the newsgroup might change, and this might not be good for you. Do you know how to vote? Do you know what a cfv is? Keep your eyes open for upcoming information. Adam -- ______________________________________ Adam Finkelstein adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu From klier@cobra.uni.edu Thu Mar 16 00:43:08 EST 1995 Article: 58569 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!cobra.uni.edu!klier From: klier@cobra.uni.edu Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Info in growing carrots from seed? Message-ID: <1995Mar14.174637.40217@cobra.uni.edu> Date: 14 Mar 95 17:46:37 -0600 References: <3k491g$bko@netnews.upenn.edu> Organization: University of Northern Iowa Lines: 44 Status: RO X-Status: In article <3k491g$bko@netnews.upenn.edu>, swirsky@umis.upenn.edu (Ted Swirsky) writes: > > My daughter likes carrots and insisted we buy some seeds. Are carrots > difficult to grow? Any special requirements besides deep, loosened soil? > > We are in South Jersey. Thanks! Carrots are very easy to grow.... easiest in sandy or peaty soils, because the roots brush penetrate the soil easily and "grow straight", and the soil brushes off easily for harvest. If you've got a heavy, clay-ey soil, you can either grow little round carrots (these are special cultivars), or you can dig a pit, fill it with sand and compost mixture and grow in that. Look around and you'll probably see several cultivars of carrots: why not try several kinds? Some I particularly like are: Nantes Coreless, a classic "big carrot", like from the store Bolero, with a cylindrical root and good flavor Planet, a baby carrot, one of the ball shaped ones for heavy soil, but excellent flavor Little Finger, a small carrot, of the "gourmet baby carrot" persuasion. Carrots do take a while to germinate, and sometimes carry a seedcoat virus that wreaks havoc on the crop. To help both problems, soak carrot seed in milk for 24 hours before planting (use a shallow dish, like a saucer, and any milk... skim or whole. The milk proteins inactivate the virus). Plant the presoaked seed in moist soil, and keep the seeds moist until they germinate, about 2-3 weeks in cooler temperatures. Cover the seeds in the row with a couple of layers of gunny sack if you're concerned with soil drying out... remove it when the plants sprout. Don't forget to thin the rows of young carrots, since most of us plant the seeds much too closely together. An inch or so apart is the spacing I aim for when I plant carrot seeds, but I usually seem to wind up with 2-3 carrots per inch... and you've got to (whining sound!) pull the extras so that the remainder can develop properly. Mixing the seed with sand when you're planting it can help get the seeds a bit more spread out initially. Kay Klier klier@cobra.uni.edu From rbp@pressco.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:10 EST 1995 Article: 58570 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!malgudi.oar.net!pressco.com!usenet From: Rod Preston Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Heat Source for Germination Date: 13 Mar 1995 22:33:45 GMT Organization: Pressco Technology Lines: 26 Message-ID: <3k2h89$pb4@pti.pressco.com> References: <3jn832$3tmv@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: pti.pressco.com Status: O X-Status: yeutter@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu (M. Yeutter) wrote: > > I put the seed flats on the heated waterbed when I get up in the > morning, then set them on the floor overnight. The sprouted > 6-packs go into different flats under the lights. I've learned > the hard way to use an indelible marker and write the type of > plant on each 6-pack when I plant the seeds. I tried to > remember what was planted (very poor idea) and I've drawn diagrams > of the flats with everything labelled, but position-dependent > labelling has left me with mystery plants X 6. > > Marguerite > > > -- > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > | yeutter@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu | standard | > | Marguerite Yeutter | disclaimer. | > =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= I germinate mine on top of the furnace. My squash and zuchinni sprouted in about 3 days. Rod Preston rbp@pressco.com From pld@fc.hp.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:11 EST 1995 Article: 58571 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!sdd.hp.com!hplabs!hplntx!cello.hpl.hp.com!col.hp.com!fc.hp.com!pld From: pld@fc.hp.com (Paul Dineen) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Good Landscape Design Software? Date: 13 Mar 1995 23:45:47 GMT Organization: HP WRCO, Fort Collins, CO Lines: 9 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k2lfb$lsp@tadpole.fc.hp.com> References: <3jtqvv$md0@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com> Reply-To: pld@fc.hp.com NNTP-Posting-Host: hpfcpld.fc.hp.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0.8] Status: RO X-Status: Celeste Wegner (FZVC12A@prodigy.com) wrote: : Any response to your landscape design software question--any : recommendations for a good package? : - : CELESTE WEGNER FZVC12A@prodigy.com Check out: Review of gardening software From pk@clark.net Thu Mar 16 00:43:13 EST 1995 Article: 58572 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!news.clark.net!news.clark.net!not-for-mail From: pk@clark.net (Paul Kelley) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Topiary Date: 14 Mar 1995 20:06:58 -0500 Organization: Clark Internet Services, Ellicott City MD USA Lines: 14 Message-ID: <3k5eji$glb@explorer.clark.net> References: <3jtql1$b5h@usenet.srv.cis.pitt.edu> <1995Mar13.132702.40143@cobra.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: clark.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Status: O X-Status: There is a beautiful house and garden about 25 miles northeast-ish of Baltimore City called Ladew Gardens. It has a very extensive collection of topiary. Some of the figures include a hunting scene with a horse and rider, hounds and a fox. During the summer, they have polo matches and concerts. At the Christmas holidays, the house is open for tours. It is a fabulous place to visit if you are in Baltimore and interested in topiary. Happy gardening meg, not paul -- Paul Kelley at pk@clark.net From wendlandt@delphi.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:14 EST 1995 Article: 58573 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: wendlandt@delphi.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: clematis or hydrangea help Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 21:52:10 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 13 Message-ID: References: <3jv5vo$kle@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jvd7t$gtp@news.bu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1c.delphi.com X-To: Samme Orwig Status: O X-Status: Samme Orwig writes: >LEX LOCI 1 (lexloci1@aol.com) wrote: >: can anyone give me the names for some good, hardy varieties of clematis >: vines and hydrangeas which are suitable for a shady garden in zone 6? I agree with the second thread, Clematis really loves head in the sun and feet in the shade. If you find a spot that they're happy with, you will really have a specimen plant. I've had good success also with Jackmanii. Actually, the Jackman family are t he ones to make good progress with hybridizing the Clematis. good gardening, sharyl From wendlandt@delphi.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:15 EST 1995 Article: 58574 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: wendlandt@delphi.com Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Your favorite Perennial or Annual Date: Mon, 13 Mar 95 21:54:20 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 2 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1c.delphi.com Status: O X-Status: Is anyone willing to comment on your favorite annual or perennial? Thanks, Sharyl From allyn@u.washington.edu Thu Mar 16 00:43:16 EST 1995 Article: 58576 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!nntp.cac.washington.edu!psaltery.chem.washington.edu!user From: allyn@u.washington.edu (Allyn Weaks) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Seattle soils (was: Re: Need help with Seattle herb garden...) Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 16:04:43 -0800 Organization: University of Washington Lines: 14 Message-ID: References: <3jl8a0$fck@gtenmo1.nmo.gtegsc.com> <3k25eg$dp7@news.halcyon.com> <3k3g8u$477@cks.ssd.k12.wa.us> NNTP-Posting-Host: psaltery.chem.washington.edu X-Newsreader: Value-Added NewsWatcher 2.0b24.0+ Status: O X-Status: In article <3k3g8u$477@cks.ssd.k12.wa.us>, handerso@cks.ssd.k12.wa.us (Helen Anderson) wrote: > : there is _real_ clay, I've yet to see any around here...if you can't make > > I believe it is mostly private property but try looking where the old > brick plant used to be, south of Spokane Street. They mined the area east > of what is now I-5. Yes, but that area is smack in the middle of the Duwamish River delta... -- Allyn Weaks allyn@u.washington.edu From destry@netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:18 EST 1995 Article: 58577 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!netcom.com!destry From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker) Subject: Re: california storm Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] References: <3jr8uv$94a@ixnews3.ix.netcom.com> Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 00:45:48 GMT Lines: 22 Sender: destry@netcom12.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: elaine shanahan (dixie1@ix.netcom.com) wrote: : Anyone out there have anything to say about the storm this week and : their gardening efforts? We had a fence blown down the other nite, but : other than that, no real garden damage. I was worried about some herb : plants I had just planted three days before, and I also thought my baby : apple tree would be uprooted and blown away (as our patio furniture : was). : Elaine in San Francisco I've had to put off clearing the side of my garden for tomatoes, peppers and corn until the ground drys out (luckily, that part of my yard is 4 ft. above my neighbors, so the standing water drains away in a day or so...the other side of my yard is still underwater). My window greenhouse is overflowing with too-large seedlings and the ones already outside are under mud. We were supposed to get most of the rain down here, but it bypassed us and went north instead, so you got our share too. --Max...in San Diego -- -- ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... From kc@tiac.net Thu Mar 16 00:43:19 EST 1995 Article: 58578 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!kc.tiac.net!user From: kc@tiac.net (Kevin Crader) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Cold Frames - Glass or Plastic Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 21:54:44 -0500 Organization: The Internet Access Company Lines: 21 Message-ID: References: <3k4jq2$1nia@rover.ucs.ualberta.ca> <1995Mar14.181056.40220@cobra.uni.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: kc.tiac.net Status: O X-Status: > > It is finally getting warm enough here for me to try constructing > > my first cold frame. I'm going to use my kids' large sandbox for > > the base. My question is, can I get away with using some kind of > > plastic (preferably cheap stuff) instead of glass for the top? Several books on propagation I've looked at suggest using Bubble pack plastic in place of glass! I haven't tried this, but I would think you'd have to put some support under it (such as dog wire) to keep it from collapse under snow, squirrel, or cat weight. I intend to build a test frame this year to try it out (and use 2 layers for my Zone 6 climate). BTW bubble pack makes great internal insulation for the walls of the frame, and you can put it between any pots in the frame for added insulation. The Arnold Arboretum sticks it (using plain old rubber cement) onto the lower parts of their glass greenhouse panels for extra winter protection. Transmits light, insulates, cheap...now why didn't I think of that! Kevin From marcscholl@delphi.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:21 EST 1995 Article: 58579 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!sgiblab!uhog.mit.edu!news.mtholyoke.edu!news.umass.edu!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: Marc Scholl Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Plants from vegetable seeds?? Date: Tue, 14 Mar 95 20:51:46 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 1 Message-ID: References: <3k20eu$m9f@jac.zko.dec.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1f.delphi.com X-To: Gerald Sacks Status: O X-Status: I appreciate the response. Thank you very much. From destry@netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:23 EST 1995 Article: 58580 of rec.gardens Newsgroups: rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!olivea!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!netcom.com!destry From: destry@netcom.com (Fellwalker) Subject: Re: Yucchhh! Earwigs Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] References: <3k0svi$mv@pacific.pacific.net> Date: Wed, 15 Mar 1995 00:52:03 GMT Lines: 14 Sender: destry@netcom12.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: Liz Evangelatos (liz@pacific.net) wrote: : Any advice out their on how to get rid of earwigs? I never see them, but : their like a plague eating through my yard.... Do a version of the venerable slug-bowl....Put vegetable oil (with a little Tabasco sauce) in a low container in the garden...the next morning (supposedly, because it alswys rains whenever I do it) you should find many earwigs drowned in it (and not a few slugs, too). I've tried rolled up newspaper traps, but it's been so wet I've only gotten slugs (the Earwigs being warm and dry hiding in my bathroom :-( ) --Max -- -- ...with rings on her fingers and bells on her toes... From somebody@webe.hooked.net Thu Mar 16 00:43:24 EST 1995 Article: 58581 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!its.hooked.net!webe.hooked.net!not-for-mail From: somebody@webe.hooked.net (Mike Watson) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: gardening software poll! Date: 14 Mar 1995 18:09:44 -0800 Organization: Hooked Lines: 17 Message-ID: <3k5i98$9pt@webe.hooked.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: webe.hooked.net Status: RO X-Status: A I would like input from anyone who has used any of the available gardening/landscaping software. There are many available, 3d landscape seems to be more popular than the others. It says it has a library of 400 plants. I believe I saw another package that had 1000 plants, but the graphics on the box did look as good. Feel free to reply Email if you wish! -- \\\\ .. Just Somebody, ( > / somebody@hooked.net o From kc@tiac.net Thu Mar 16 00:43:25 EST 1995 Article: 58582 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!news.sprintlink.net!sundog.tiac.net!kc.tiac.net!user From: kc@tiac.net (Kevin Crader) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: BUCKS COUNTY-PA - When to plant peas? Date: Tue, 14 Mar 1995 22:12:46 -0500 Organization: The Internet Access Company Lines: 30 Message-ID: References: <3k4ga5$jn5@nova.voicenet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: kc.tiac.net Status: O X-Status: In article <3k4ga5$jn5@nova.voicenet.com>, Glenna Feir wrote: > We've just moved to Bucks County and I'd like to try planting some > snow peas and sugar snap peas. I know they have to be planted early, > but how early? Should they be started indoors? > > I'd also need advice on things like which annuals do well here, and > general gardening advice for this area. > > Thanks for any help. Glenna I've tried to start snap peas early in jiffy strips a la Victory Garden (an excellent book for veggie gardening), but despite intensive care and monitoring, the direct sown peas always managed to catch up to their pampered cousins. I've abandoned starting peas inside and applied my efforts to tomatoes and lettuce instead. I would think anytime after April 15th, or earlier if the soil dries out. I'd love to hear from others in Bucks about their early planting dates. Central and lower Bucks is in Zone 6, with a Zone change to 5 somewhere between Doylestown and Haycock. At least that's what I've been told by local folk. They say it can be raining in Doylestown and snowing in Bedminster. Mary and I will be moving to Bucks this year - to follow our bliss, and start a small specialty nursery! Kevin From gfeir@omni.voicenet.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:26 EST 1995 Article: 58583 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsfeed.pitt.edu!dsinc!netnews.upenn.edu!nova.voicenet.com!usenet From: Glenna Feir Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Planting a Lawn - Advice needed Date: 15 Mar 1995 01:39:35 GMT Organization: DSC/Voicenet - BBS/Unix Shells/SLIP/NEWS - (215)443-7390 Lines: 10 Message-ID: <3k5ggn$14p@nova.voicenet.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: ivyland38.voicenet.com Status: O X-Status: > Newbie question - I am thinking about planting a lawn with a garden border. > Right now it is nothing but a jungle of fast growing weeds. What is the best > time to start and any other helpful hints would be helpful, i.e., what is the > best way to kill the weeds before planting, etc. We've found that starting a lawn in the fall...about the end of August....gives much better results than starting in the spring. Glenna From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:27 EST 1995 Article: 58584 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Bulbs and moving Date: 15 Mar 1995 11:40:36 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 16 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k6jnk$dlu@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-24.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: In reedc@iac.net (Daniela Sciaky) writes: > >I'm moving in July to Albany, NY environs and I have just dug up some >mammouth Asiatic lily bulbs (here in Cincinnati, OH). Is it possible to >preserve the bulbs for transport or should I just return them to the >garden? How are these bulbs split? > >Daniela Sciaky > Powder them with sulphur, and store in cool, dry, sand. Plant when you get to NY. Bulbs make bulblets, which can be split off. The main bulb should not be split. Chris Owens From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:29 EST 1995 Article: 58585 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: How to deal with Ryegrass in garden area Date: 15 Mar 1995 11:45:43 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 20 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k6k17$do7@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k1n6l$c20@lucy.infi.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-24.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: In <3k1n6l$c20@lucy.infi.net> jquade@infi.net (Jeff Quade) writes: > >I tilled up my vegetable garden last fall and sowed ryegrass as >a winter cover. Now I'm having a time hoeing through the root >mats to put in my early stuff. Anyone else use rye as a cover >like this? I never thought it would get so well established >over a few months; I'm afraid I'll be fighting it all summer >even after I till again. Anyone got suggestions? I'm in >Richmond, Va. > >================ Jeff Quade == jquade@richmond.infi.net =============== > > You are supposed to turn it under about six weeks before you are ready to plant so that it can rot, and add nitrogen back to the soil. Try tilling it under with a shovel, or tiller. Chris Owens From mitton@dave.lkg.dec.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:30 EST 1995 Article: 58586 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!lll-winken.llnl.gov!decwrl!pa.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!usenet From: mitton@dave.lkg.dec.com (Dave Mitton) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Huggies in the Garden? Date: 15 Mar 1995 00:19:34 GMT Organization: Digital Equipment Corporation, Littleton MA Lines: 26 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k5bqm$qfn@nntpd.lkg.dec.com> References: <3jgim0$dh6@newsbf02.news.aol.com> <3jkotm$op1@strauss.udel.edu> Reply-To: mitton@dave.lkg.dec.com (Dave Mitton) NNTP-Posting-Host: dave.enet.dec.com X-Newsreader: mxrn 6.18-26 Status: O X-Status: In article <3jkotm$op1@strauss.udel.edu>, pyro@strauss.udel.edu (Thomas Rich Schwerdt) writes: >In article <3jgim0$dh6@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, >Molly555 wrote: >>I recently had a friend tell me that she recycles the moisture retaining >>stuff out of "tame" or unused diapers around water hungry plants.. and >>that her plants love it. She thinks its the same stuff that is sold by >>some of the catalogs for the same purpose. Anybody out there > >it is the exact same substance -- although i think it would be much >more expensive in the diapers ratehr than buying it as a powder >by itself.... > >-Tom the Melaniephile Except that the diaper market is a high volume mass market that is price sensitive, vs the hobby gardner market which is the opposite. Think about it. I willing to bet (I don't know) that the chemical compounds were developed for diapers first, and the agriculteral uses came later. Anyone want to compare numbers? FWIW. -- Dave Mitton, mitton@dave.enet.dec.com From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:31 EST 1995 Article: 58587 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Growing mimosa Date: 15 Mar 1995 11:49:58 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 29 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k6k96$dol@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-24.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: In voorlichter@mi.rulimburg.nl (Voorlichter WP medische informatica) writes: > >Hello, > >Last sunday I saw at the local gardencenter mimosa, it was blooming very >nicely. >I know this plant of hollidays in the south of France and Spain and was >asking myself if it is possible to keep this plant in the north in a much >colder climat like The Netherlands, Germany or Belgium (I live near the >crossingpoint of these countries in Maastricht, The Netherlands) because it >is really beautiful. >I think you have keep it at a cool place in winter but still how is growing? >If somebody keeps them in a colder climat has any information (also about >its origin, etc.), I am very curious. >Other subtropic plants like oleander, hibiscus do grow here. > >Thanks in advance, > >Danielle > I have never seen a mimosa grow where they had serious winter. A few degrees of frost, yes; but not winter. BTW, before you plant one -- each of those lovely, fluffy, pink-and-white blooms will produce 15 - 20 seeds; which are very, very happy to sprout. Owning a mimosa means weeding out all of the volunteers each summer. Chris Owens From jpiflyfish@aol.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:32 EST 1995 Article: 58588 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!newstf01.news.aol.com!newsbf02.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: jpiflyfish@aol.com (JPIFLYFISH) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Terraced gardening Date: 14 Mar 1995 21:14:44 -0500 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 4 Sender: root@newsbf02.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3k5iik$a1g@newsbf02.news.aol.com> Reply-To: jpiflyfish@aol.com (JPIFLYFISH) NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf02.mail.aol.com Status: O X-Status: Most of the slope in my backyard is a terraced vegetable garden. I'm looking for others who share similar challenges with terraced gardening. I haven't seen much in print; can anyone offer advice or good books on the subject? From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:33 EST 1995 Article: 58589 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: "Potting" plants Date: 15 Mar 1995 11:53:14 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k6kfa$dqu@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> References: <3k1q1p$7t1@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-24.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: In <3k1q1p$7t1@newsbf02.news.aol.com> birdmommy@aol.com (Birdmommy) writes: > >Ok, stupid question time, my 7 year old asked me and *I* don't know the >answer! (Gee, Mom really DOESN'T know everything) can you (has anyone) >ever grown tomatoes, peppers etc. INSIDE in containers in the winter? Can >it be done? Will it work? Can we have fresh Tomatoes and Peppers all >winter? > > >molli >Denver zone 5 > If you are willing to devote enough money and effort to the project. The one year that my husband and I had a greenhouse, we grew tomatoes, peppers, and summer melons all year long. You would not believe the power bill for the grow lights and heaters! Both tomatoes and peppers need warmth, a LOT of light, and water. You will also have to hand-pollinate unless you keep an indoor beehive, too. Chris Owens From dbnorman@mail.utexas.edu Thu Mar 16 00:43:34 EST 1995 Article: 58590 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!slip-5-13.ots.utexas.edu!dbnorman From: Dana Norman Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: What's BLOOMIN' in your part of the land? Date: 15 Mar 1995 02:15:59 GMT Organization: UT Austin Lines: 18 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k5ikv$neo@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu> References: <3jts49$h22@nova.voicenet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: slip-5-13.ots.utexas.edu X-UserAgent: Nuntius v1.1.1d24 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Tue, 14 Mar 95 03:19:20 GMT Status: O X-Status: > Subject: Re: What's BLOOMIN' in your part of the land? Here in the Texas Hill Country several plants and trees are blooming: Texas Redbud Tree Bluebonnets Daffodils Peach Trees Possumhaw Carolina Jessamine and in my garden....Martha Gonzales Others too, but space won't allow. ~Dana From blw@lanl.gov Thu Mar 16 00:43:35 EST 1995 Article: 58591 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!solaris.cc.vt.edu!uunet!in1.uu.net!news.sandia.gov!tesuque.cs.sandia.gov!ferrari.mst6.lanl.gov!newshost.lanl.gov!weintraub-mac.atdiv.lanl.gov!user From: blw@lanl.gov (Barbara W) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Violet suppliers/Rock Garden Catalogs Date: 13 Mar 1995 17:01:55 GMT Organization: AOT-FM, LANL Lines: 7 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: weintraub-mac.atdiv.lanl.gov Status: O X-Status: barbara_skolones@quickmail.yale.edu (Barbara Skolones) wrote: > I am looking for a supplier or suppliers of violets. Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery (Oregon) sells alpines and woodland plants. They have a few Viola ssp. Logee's Greenhouses (Connecticutt) carries Viola odorata varieties. Both have mail order catalogs. From cowens@ix.netcom.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:37 EST 1995 Article: 58592 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netnews From: cowens@ix.netcom.com (Christine Owens) Newsgroups: rec.gardens Subject: Re: Squirrels and strawberries Date: 15 Mar 1995 11:58:58 GMT Organization: Netcom Lines: 23 Distribution: world Message-ID: <3k6kq2$dt2@ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> References: <173608EE0S86.SCHOZEN@lsuvm.sncc.lsu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: ix-dc6-24.ix.netcom.com Status: O X-Status: In <173608EE0S86.SCHOZEN@lsuvm.sncc.lsu.edu> SCHOZEN@lsuvm.sncc.lsu.edu (Stephanie) writes: > >I've discovered in the last few days that there is a squirrel who has been >dropping by for breakfast in my strawbeery pots for the past month or so. >I grow strawberries in regular three gallon pots on my balcony in the court- >yard side of my building. Every morning this squirrel climbs up the stairs >and makes his way around the walkway to see if any of the berries are ripe >(by his standards, this means slightly pinkish) and then eats them right off >the plant. I thought my neighbors were imagining things until I opened the >door Saturday morning just as he was arriving. So far he hasn't figured out >how to pull the netting off the second pot to get the larger berries, but I >really don't care to compete with this guy for my strawberries. Is there any >good way to discourage him or should I just let him have his strawberry pot >and keep the other covered for myself? Moving them isn't a possibility due to >sunlight needs. > >Stephanie > Try spreading some caltrops right around the strawberry pots. Chris Owens From hrbmoore@rt66.com Thu Mar 16 00:43:39 EST 1995 Article: 58593 of rec.gardens Path: bigblue.oit.u