Plant
Identification: Where do I start? How do I get help?
Using
popular field guides, many woody plants (trees, shrubs, and
woody vines) often can be identified based on leaf characteristics.
However, flowers, fruits, or other reproductive structures are
usually needed for most other plants, including wildflowers,
and perennial and annual garden plants. Technical scientific
keys use both reproductive and leaf characteristics.
To
get started, observe as much as you can about the plant. Start
with the following:
Plant
type or habit: Woody (plants with perennial woody stems above
ground in the winter) or herbaceous (plants that lack perennial
woody stems above ground and emerge from underground stems or
roots or seeds each spring). Within the woody category note
whether the plant is a tree, shrub, or woody vine. Within the
herbaceous category note whether the plant has a branched or
unbranched stem, a leafy or leafless stem, a circle or rosette
of leaves at the base, or is an herbaceous vine.
Next
determine whether the leaves are arranged in an opposite, alternate,
or whorled manner, whether the leaves are compound or simple,
and whether the leaves or leaflets are lobed or unlobed and
toothed or entire (untoothed).
If
the plant has conspicuous flowers, determine whether the flowers
are regular (radially symmetrical like a 4, 5, or more pointed
star) or irregular (bilaterally symmetric like people--that
is divisible into symmetrial right and left halves but having
no other plane of symmetry).
Gardens,
garden centers and herbaria often have staff members that are
able to help identify plant specimens. The
NC Botanical Garden has a daily community service hour from
Noon to 1pm for walk in or phone in questions. You are encouraged
to bring plant specimens to the Garden for assistance in identification.
Refer
back to the PIC Virtual Herbarium
to search our database containing information about North Carolina
trees. The database includes images and descriptions of specimens
from the University of North Carolina Herbarium.
For
do it yourself plant identification there are many excellent
reference books and keys.
North Carolina Trees and Wildflowers : An Introduction to Familiar
Plants (Pocket Naturalist) by James Kavanagh, Waterford Press,
2001
Highlights up to 150 familiar trees, shrubs, cacti, and wildflowers.
Cards are laminated for durability.
Newcomb's Wildflower Guide : An Ingenious New Key System for
Quick, Positive Field Identification of the Wildflowers, Flowering
Shrubs and Vines of Northeastern and North Central United States
Vol. 1, by Lawrence Newcomb, Little, Brown & Company, 1989
A comprehensive and systematic key that relies heavily on vegetative
(non-flowering) parts, 490 pages.
Wildflowers of North Carolina by William S. Justice and C. Ritchie
Bell, University of North Carolina Press, 1987
This classic guide features 408 full color photographs in a
book designed for easy handling in the field. Each species description
provides common and scientific names; brief notes about habitat,
range size and month of bloom; and characteristics for identification.
Rare and common species are included as well as native and naturalized
plants, 217 pages, reprint.
Manual of the Vascular Flora of the Carolinas by Albert E Radford,
C. Ritchie Bell and Harry E. Ahles University of North Carolina
Press, 1968
One of the best floras of any region. Provides complete coverage
of all vascular plants of North and South Carolina. Features
excellent keys, drawings, and range maps. The manual treats
in detail more than 3,200 species of trees, shrubs, vines, herbs
and ferns that grow without cultivation in the Carolinas. This
is the established reference for professionals, students, and
plant enthusiasts throughout the southeastern United States,
1183 pages.
A
bibliography of Southeastern Woody
Plants is available on the PIC Resources
page.
What
are the most common native trees in North Carolina?
The pocket
manual: Common
Forest Trees of North Carolina by the NC Division of Forest
Resources is available on the PIC Resources
page.
American Basswood
American Beech
American Chestnut
(American Elder)
American Elm
American Holly
American Sycamore
Atlantic White Cedar
Bald cypress
Bitternut Hickory
Black Cherry
Black Gum
Black Locust
Black Oak
Black Walnut
Black Willow
Other Willows
Blackjack Oak
Box elder
Carolina Ash
Carolina Silverbell
Cherrybark Oak
Chestnut Oak
Chinkapin
Common Persimmon
Eastern Cottonwood
Eastern Hemlock
Eastern Hop Hornbeam
Eastern Red Cedar
Eastern White Pine
|
(Fevertree)
Flowering Dogwood
Fraser Fir
Fraser Magnolia
(Fringetree)
(Florida Anise, Anise Tree)
Green Ash
Hackberry
Hawthorns
Honey locust
Hornbeam
Live Oak
Loblolly Pine
Loblolly Bay
Longleaf Pine
Mockernut Hickory
Northern Red
Oak
Overcup Oak
Pecan
Pignut Hickory
Pin Cherry
Pin Oak
Pitch Pine
Pond Pine
Post Oak
Red Maple
Red Mulberry
Red Spruce
Redbud
River Birch
|
Sassafras
Scarlet Oak
(Scarlet Buckeye)
(Schumard Red Oak)
Serviceberry
Shagbark Hickory
Shortleaf Pine
Slippery Elm
Sourwood
Southern Magnolia
Southern Red Oak
Sugar Maple
Sugarberry
Swamp Chestnut Oak
Swamp Cottonwood
Sweet Birch
Sweetbay
Sweetgum
Table Mountain Pine
Turkey Oak
Virginia Pine
Water Oak
Water Tupelo
(Waxmyrtle)
White Ash
White Oak
Willow Oak
Winged Elm
(Winged Sumac)
(Witchhazel)
Yellow Birch
Yellow Buckeye
Yellow Poplar or Tuliptree
|
What
endangered species are found in North Carolina?
The
North
Carolina Department of Agriculture Plant Conservation Program
is responsible for the listing and protection of North Carolina's
endangered plants and threatened plant species.
The
United States Fish and Wildlife Service Ecological Services
Division works to conserve and restore endangered and threatened
species and the ecosystems upon which they depend.
SERPIN
the Southeast rare plant information network is another source
for information about rare species that may also be endangered.
The
Center
for Plant Conservation
has information on America's rarest native plants that are
collected, grown, and maintained by institutions in their national
Member Network. The North Carolina Botanical Garden is a member
institution.
What
are the poisonous plants of North Carolina?
North
Carolina State University has developed an extensive web site
on Poisonous
Plants of North Carolina.
It
includes listings by common name, by scientific name and by
poisonous part.
Other relevant links are provided as well.
How
do I identify Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, and Poison Sumac?
Poison
Ivy
(Rhus radicans) is most easily
identified by its leaves which grow in groups of three. Each
Poison
Ivy leaf is made up of 3 divisions or leaflets (leaves divided
into leaflets are called compound leaves.) The compound leaves
are borne in an alternative arrangement on the stem (leaves
attached singly rather than paired or whorled). The middle
leaflet is pointed and is usually slightly longer than the
other two. The appearance of the leaflets varies widely from
plant to plant. Leaflet size ranges anywhere from 1½-4 inches.
Leaves can appear dull, shiny, lobed, unlobed, toothed, or
toothless.
Poison Ivy
can grow in the form of a climbing vine, a trailing groundcover,
or an erect shrub. When growing as a vine, the stem produces
short aerial rootlets along the sides which makes the vine
appear "hairy." Older vines often have the appearance of a
dark, thick rope. When growing as either a groundcover or
an erect shrub, the plant reaches heights of 2-7 feet.
Poison Ivy
produces small yellowish- or greenish-white flowers during
May-July, and drooping clusters of small, hard, white berries
from August-November. The leaves turn a bright red during
the Fall. All parts of the plant, including the roots, are
toxic during all seasons. Poison Ivy is commonly found in
woods and thickets from Southern Canada to Florida.
Poison
Oak (Rhus toxicodendron) is very closely related
to Poison Ivy. Many Botanists argue about how significantly
different the two plants really are. Poison Oak is also best
identified by its leaves which grow in groups of three. Unlike
Posion Ivy, however, Poison Oak only grows as an erect shrub.
Poison Oak
leaves are alternate compound. The leaflets are hairy and
often lobed, and thus bearing some similarity to and oak leaf
(hence the name, poison oak). The middle leaflet is pointed
and is usually slightly longer than the other two. Leaflet
size ranges from 1½-4 inches. The plant produces flowers and
fruits from May-August, and the leaves turn a bright red during
Autumn. All parts of the plant are toxic during all seasons.
Poison Oak is commonly found in woods and thickets from Southern
Canada to Florida.
Poison
Sumac (Rhus vernix) is a shrub or small tree with
long, feather-compound leaves. The leaves are usually 6-14
inches long and are comprised of 7-13 pointed, toothless leaflets.
The leaf stems are often red. The twigs and buds of the shrub
are hairless, the bark is smooth and speckled with dark spots.
The plant produces drooping clusters of small white berries
from August through Spring. The shrub grows to a height of
6-20 feet. All parts of the plant are toxic during all seasons.
Poison Sumac is commonly found in wooded or partly wooded
swamps in southeastern Minnesota, southern Ontario, southwestern
Quebec, and from southwest Maine down to Texas and Florida.
Where
can I find native plants for Southeastern Gardening?
The North
Carolina Botanical Garden has compiled a list of Recommended
Sources of Native Plants. The Garden's Daily Plant Sale,
which offers NCBG-propagated native plants and herbs, runs
April through October.
Where
can I get recommendations on what to plant?
First
determine the characteristics of the location you want to
put a plant. How much sunlight does the area receive? Does
it get full, partial, or filtered sun, or full shade? What
is the soil type? Has the soil been enhanced or is it a resident
clay or sandy soil? How moist or dry is the location?
These
are the kind of questions needed to recommend a plant for
a specific location.
Gardens
and garden centers often have staff members that are able
to give recommendations on what to plant. The NC
Botanical Garden has a daily community service hour from
Noon to 1pm for walk in or phone in questions. You are encouraged
to call or visit and speak with a knowledgeable staff member
for assistance in plant selection.
What
can I do to learn more about native plant gardening?
There
are many good books available on native plant gardening through
your public library or a local bookseller. The NC Botanical
Garden has an extensive reference library on the premises,
these books must stay on site. The garden also has many books
available for sale.
Native
Plant societies may be a helpful source of information on
gardening with native plants. The Michigan Botanical Club
provides a listing of Native
Plant Societies of the United States & Canada as well
as a page of native
plant gardening links.
The
USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service provides a listing
of Native
Plants and Gardening Links.
I want to keep some remnants of the natural landscape in
my home garden. How do I choose what plants to remove from
a natural landscape versus what plants to keep?
A first step
will be to know what you have to begin with. Identify or get
help identifying what is already present in the natural landscape
before you make the mistake of removing something unique. See
the FAQ "Plant identification: Where do I start? How do I get
Help?
You can consult
with a professional landscape designer who specializes in natural
landscape design. You can also read books and articles or attend
a class on natural landscape design. A consultation should include
a species identification and inventory and perhaps a soil profile.
Are
there problem plants that invade a natural landscape and what
can I do about them?
Invasive
plants are species outside of their native range that threaten
the survival or reproduction of native plants or animals or
threaten to reduce biological diversity.
Invasive
exotic plant species have negatively affected the natural function
of ecosystems, agriculture and human health worldwide. The deliberate
introductions of certain notorious invasive exotics to the southeastern
United States, such as kudzu (Pueraria montana), Chinese privet
(Ligustrum sinense), bamboo grass (Microstegium vimineum), and
Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), continue to be disruptive;
these species have naturalized to the extent that they are now
inextricable from the local landscape.
For
further information on invasive exotic plants visit the North
Carolina Botanical Garden Invasive Exotic Plants web site.
What
damages occur to trees from construction?
Trees
on construction sites are injured by:
-Compaction of soil
-Removal or addition of top soil (change in grade)
-Loss or damage to roots
-Damage to trunk or leaf crown.
-Lowering of groundwater
When tree roots are removed or damaged, or fill is placed on
the soil surface, trees may show decline symptoms within a few
months. Symptoms include small or off-color leaves, premature
fall color, extensive water sprout development on the trunk
& main limbs, dead twigs and eventually dead branches.
How
do you protect trees during construction?
The
best way to protect trees on a construction site is to prevent,
or at least minimize any changes that may cause injury through
planning ahead.
Decide
which trees should be saved (or perhaps transplanted) based
on their nearness to the construction area, health, age, and
species.
Build
a barrier to keep equipment away from the remaining trees on
the site. Construction fencing should be placed at the drip
line of the tree, anchored as far from the trunk as possible.
Visualize the tree as if the canopy were an umbrella- the drip
line is where the water droplets would fall to the ground. Cabling
& bracing may be needed when the stability of a large tree
is compromised.
If
trenching near desirable trees is necessary, tunnel under the
root system rather than cutting a trench through a significant
portion of the roots.
If
the grade must be raised around a desired tree, construct a
dry well around the tree. For maximum effectiveness, the dry
well should extend to the drip line of the tree.
Consult
a reputable tree specialist for advice
Site
management plans can include specifics on traffic flow &
parking to minimize the impact of vehicles on the environment.
How
do you care for trees if you suspect damage?
If
damage occurs to the root system, some of the branches of the
tree should be pruned out to help bring the branch system back
into balance with the root system. When part of the root system
is damaged or removed, it can no longer supply the needed amount
of water to the branches and leaves or needles of the tree.
Removing some branches reduces the water requirement of the
tree. Therefore, the pruning should be done as soon as possible
after the root damage. Prune by thinning out some branches,
but retain the overall shape of the tree. In general, the amount
of pruning should roughly equal the estimated amount of root
damage or loss. Dead branches should also be removed.
Loose
or dead bark should be removed from around wounds
Fills
should be removed to the dripline of the tree.
Damaged
and suspected trees should be watered and fertilized properly.
Fertilizers containing nitrogen and phosphorous in about equal
proportions should be used. Best time for application is in
late winter. Phosphate is desired because it stimulates root
growth. Nitrogen will generally increase the growth and vigor
of the tree, and thus will hasten the healing of trunk scarring.
However, it also stimulates foliage and stem growth which might
be undesirable unless the tree is watered during dry periods,
but be careful not to overwater.
Dead
trees should be removed. Trees that are a hazard should be cabled
or removed. On large trees, all these operations should be done
by professionals
Even
with prompt treatment, severely damaged trees may die. However,
the sooner the treatment is begun, the better the chance of
recovery.
Is
my soil good for gardening?
Good
soil is the most important ingredient for a healthy, successful
garden. Soil is a mixture of air, water, inorganic material,
minerals and decomposed plant and animal material. There are
two basic types of soil, clay and sandy. Most soil is a combination
of these two. Soil can be further classified by it's pH level.
pH level is important to know because it affects the way plants
absorb nutrients from the soil. The North Carolina Department
of Agriculture and Consumer Services provide testing free of
charge (see "How to get soils tested.) You can also purchase
a pH test kit at a garden center for do it yourself use. The
pH scale is used to measure how acidic or alkaline the soil
is. If the pH level is 1 to 3, the soil is very acidic. If the
soil has a pH level of 4 to 7, it is neutral. If the pH level
is higher than 7, it is alkaline. Most plants prefer neutral
soil but some are adapted to acidic soil or to alkaline soil.
Most soils fall somewhere between the extremes and can be improved
by adding specific organic nutrients or bulk to it. This is
called soil conditioning.
How
do I get soil tested?
The Agronomic
Division of the N.C. Department of Agriculture and Consumer
Services (NCDA&CS) conducts soil tests free of charge
for all North Carolina citizens. Soil samples must be mailed/delivered
to NCDA&CS Agronomic Division, Soil Testing Section, 4300
Reedy Creek Road, Raleigh, NC 27607-6465 according to the Division's
instructions.
Sampling boxes,
sampling and mailing instructions, and other forms are all freely
available from the NCDA&CS regional agronomists, the Agronomic
Division in Raleigh, your county's Cooperative Extension
Service office, or local agribusinesses. Soil test results
are posted immediately over the internet.
For more details,
please contact the North Carolina Department of Agriculture
and Consumer Services at (919) 733-7125, or visit their website:
http://www.ncagr.com/.
What
are some tips for gardening in North Carolina Clays?
The main
problem with clay soils is excessive water retention, soil
compaction and limited soil aeration. The act of simply digging
in these compacted soils does wonders for adding aeration,
but never dig, cultivate or have traffic on clay soil that
is wet.
To prevent
re-occurrence of compaction, provide for adequate drainage
and retain aeration. Organic as well as inorganic amendments
should be incorporated into clay soil. The preferred organic
amendments are composted leaves and composted ground pine
bark. Composted leaves are usually quite abundant and usually
free. Other desirable organic materials include animal manures
and compost from your own compost pile. Peat moss, hardwood
bark, sawdust, wood chips and pine straw are NOT recommended
for clay soils. Using composted organic materials avoids tying
up soil nitrogen during decomposition.
According
to the Cooperative Extension Service, amendments to clay soil
should be incorporated to at least 25% by volume or at least
2" of amendment per 6" of soil to result in 8" of amended
soil, any less is a waste of time and material. Up to 50%
by volume or equal parts of amendments to clay soil is beneficial.
Regular additions of composted organic material will have
long-term benefits. As the organic material continues to break
down, the soil will become darker and easier to work with.
While
organic products help greatly in holding moisture and nutrients,
pea gravel (<3/8") or # 78 washed stone is useful in increasing
drainage and retaining aeration. This small washed gravel
is spread over the newly tilled bed to a depth of ½ inch,
then tilled or spaded into the bed. There are a number of
new materials on the market to serve similar purposes such
as stalite. Stalite (marketed under the name "Perma-till"
is an expanded slate material that looks like pea gravel but
each particle is filled with air space. Sand is NOT recommended
for clay soil. In a clay soil sand and clay particles tend
to interlock resulting in a soil with much worse drainage
than before. Think clay + sand = bricks. Gypsum may be used
to aid in retaining soil conditioning in established areas
that are not tilled annually. For more information on how
applications of gypsum may be beneficial visit http://www.humeseeds.com/gypsum.htm.
**The
majority of this information was derived from Soils
and Soils Preparation by Tony Avent, as it appeared in
The American Hosta Society Journal, 1993, vol. 24, #1&2.
How
do I prune and when is the best time to prune?
For
general pruning, late winter is a good time to take care of
most deciduous trees, shrubs, and vines.
In
early spring, prune shrubs that flower in summer, broad-leaved
evergreens, and all roses except climbers. Prune climbing
roses in early summer.
Prune
spring-flowering shrubs in late spring, right after they've
bloomed. Summer or winter pruning of these plants will remove
the buds and prevent flowering.
Avoid
pruning in early autumn. It causes tender new growth that
will be killed by cold.
Since
pruning time and technique varies by plant type. It is best
to use a resource such as a book or a Cooperative Extension
Service publication for information on the specific plant
you wish to prune.
Various
southern Cooperative Extension services offer the following
websites:
Pruning
Ornamental Plants - Georgia CES
Pruning
Woody Plants - Georgia CES
Pruning
Basics and Tools - Virginia CES
Shrub
Pruning Calendar - Virginia CES
Pruning
Broadleaf Evergreen Shrubs-NC CES
Pruning
Narrowleaf Evergreens (Conifers) -NC CES
Two
other links to basic pruning information are the article
Knowing
when and where to cut - demystifying the process of pruning
and Gardening
Basics - Pruning
How
do I identify and get rid of pests and diseases?
As
part of your regular care, look carefully at your plants.
Check all the parts: stems, leaves (both sides), flowers and
fruits. Look for problems that show up as spots, holes, or
bumps. Is an insect or spider living on the plant and causing
damage? You might see fuzzy-looking or discolored places,
and droopy leaves. Is it fungus or mildew? If you SEE a problem
when it first starts, you might be able to prevent more damage
and keep the plant healthy.
There
are many kinds of pests and diseases, and many reference sources
(people, books and web sites) to aid in identifying a particular
pest or disease.
Gardens
and garden centers often have staff members that are able
to give advise on pests and diseases. The NC
Botanical Garden has a daily community service hour from
Noon to 1pm for walk in or phone in questions. You are encouraged
to call or visit and speak with a knowledgeable staff member
to assist you with your question about a garden pest or plant
disease.
In
addition, you may wish to do research and learn about common
insect pests and diseases that might attack your plants. Learn
more by finding and studying information sources at websites
and in books. Keep these information sources handy so you
can refer to them for detailed information when you need it.
The
above information came from the pests and diseases unit http://www.k12.hi.us/~ckuroda/pest.htm
of an E-School Project - "Simply Hydroponics"
http://www.k12.hi.us/~ckuroda/hydroponics.html
on the web site of Cheryl K. Kudora, Technology and Telecommunication
coordinator for Waiakeawaena Elementary School, Hawaii.
Tree
disease, What is common in North Carolina?
The
North
Carolina Division of Forest Resources offers the following
links to information about forest tree diseases that are common
in North Carolina, including tips for identification and control
of these diseases. Additional information and links are available
at the NCDFR site.
Common
Tree Diseases
Dogwood
Anthracnose is a fungal disease that weakens and kills
flowering dogwoods. This disease affects both woodland and
ornamental dogwoods in twenty-nine counties (primarily in
the mountains) in North Carolina.
Pitch
Canker Pitch canker can damage many pine species, including
all of the commercially important southern pines.
Annosus
Root Rot is a major root rotting disease mainly in pine
plantations. No North American conifer is known to be resistant.
Fusiform
Rust infects stems of pine trees, resulting in weakened
stems and wind breakage at the canker.
Oak
Wilt is a fungal disease that infects and kills oak trees,
primarily red oaks. Infected oaks typically begin to turn
bronze colored and appear water soaked before prematurely
shedding leaves. Oak wilt eventually leads to the death of
infected trees.
Other Forest Tree Diseases
Diseases
of the Southern Region is a website of the USDA Forest
Service--Forest Health Protection that provides the latest
information about forest tree diseases that affect the South.
Forest
Insect and Disease Leaflets are technical publications
developed by the USDA Forest Service that address specific
tree pests, including identification and control. Most of
these publications are out of print, and available only via
the WWW.
Pest
Alerts are one-page fact sheets about new or unusual tree
pests. They are intended to alert land managers and the public
about important tree pests.
Additional Information Sources
Pest
Identification information How to get pest problems identified
and recommendations from the North Carolina Plant Disease
& Insect Clinic.
Additional information about forest insect pests in your area,
contact you local County
Ranger or North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service
Office.
How
do I identify a pine beetle? What damage do they do?
The
North Carolina Division of Forest Resources describes the
infestation and damage wrought by The
Southern Pine Beetle in North Carolina as well as mapping
the affected counties and providing some illustrations. Virginia
Tech has developed the Southern
Pine Beetle Internet Control Center as the clearinghouse
for southern pine beetle information, control strategies,
and ongoing research. At this site you can find information
to aid in the identification of the Southern Pine Beetle as
well as other bark and wood boring beetles. To get to the
identification information click on About SPB, then on Identification,
then on the picture of the SPB or "Show remaining"
for more details.
Tick
related problems (how to remove ticks, what diseases do they
cause, what is their habitat?)
Some of
the following answers come from the Public Health Pest Management
(PHPM), a section of the Division of Environmental Health
(DEH). The page on ticks is http://www.deh.enr.state.nc.us/phpm/pages/html/ticks.html
How can
I prevent a tick bite?
Tick bites
are best avoided, if possible. Avoid tick-infested areas.
Wear light-colored clothing, preferably long sleeves and pants,
when walking through known tick habitat. Tuck pants into sock
or boot tops. Apply repellents. Stick to trails in wooded
areas. Check for ticks, including the scalp, frequently.
How do
I remove a tick?
Remove
the tick with tweezers by grasping it as close to the skin
as possible and pulling at 90 degrees with a steady even pressure.
The tick should not be squeezed, crushed, or punctured if
possible. Avoid leaving its head embedded. After removal of
the tick, wash attachment site with soap and water to disinfect.
Flush the tick down the toilet or dispose of in a container
of alcohol. Minimizing the length of attachment reduces the
likelihood of disease transmission.
What
diseases do ticks cause?
Hard-bodied
ticks are carriers of several diseases that affect man and
domesticated animals, including Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain
spotted fever, and ehrlichiosis. These diseases can be treated
with antibiotics if diagnosed early. Notify your physician
if you develop flu-like symptoms two to 21 days after a tick
bite. For more information on these and other diseases carried
by ticks, please refer to the following link: CDC:
Lyme Disease
What
ticks are found in North Carolina and where are they found?
American
Dog Tick: Typically found in shrubby habitats, the American
Dog Tick feeds on a variety of animals throughout its life
cycle. Adults prefer humans and dogs as hosts. The American
dog tick is not believed to be a vector of Lyme disease, although
it has been found to transmit Rocky Mountain Spotted fever.
The Brown
dog tick: Found throughout North Carolina and feeds almost
exclusively on dogs. This tick rarely feeds on people.
The Lone
Star tick: Named for the single white spot on the back of
the female tick. All stages of this tick feed on man and large
animals, including dogs and deer.
Black-legged
tick: Juveniles of this species feed mostly on snakes and
lizards. The adults feed on large mammals, including dogs,
deer and humans.
In any
tick related problem you should always seek professional help.
How
do I compost?
Here
are the basic rules to follow for successful composting:
Start your compost pile in a very sunny spot, preferably
someplace shielded from drying winds.
Successful compost piles are comprised of basically equal
parts "brown" and "green" materials:
"Brown" materials are carbon items such as fall
leaves, straw, sawdust and other dry matter. "Green"
materials are nitrogen-rich items such as grass clippings,
food scraps, weeds and non-woody garden prunings.
Adding a shovel full of dirt, cow/pig manure, or cottonseed
meal to a new pile will help start the composting process
quickly.Putting meat, grease, or other animal parts into
a compost pile will probably attract rodents, may cause
unpleasant odors, and can lead to a wet, slower composting
process.
Smaller materials compost faster. If possible, shred or
cut the material you place in your pile into 2 to 4 inch
pieces.
Turn your pile often (every 5 to 7 days) using a pitchfork,
shovel or aeration tool. Compost piles need lots of air
to work.
Keep your compost pile very moist, like a wrung out towel.
It is not uncommon to water compost piles to maintain their
moisture.
Compost piles are sometimes kept inside a container, which
can help keep the pile compact. A good container will allow
sun and air to reach all sides of the compost pile. With
consistent sunlight, moisture and aeration, your compost
pile will be "done" in 2 to 4 months (i.e. the
pile will look like very dark, crumbly soil full of small
bits of vegetation.
How
do I control deer effects?
Deer
can cause serious damage to both commercial and consumer
gardening and landscaping. Deer routinely damage plants
by eating ("browsing") and trampling, and also
by rubbing their antlers on small trees, saplings or woody
shrubs. As deer lose their fear of humans, deer effects
are becoming increasingly common in both rural and urban
gardens. Generally, deer effects are controlled rather than
ceased completely. In attempting to control deer effects
in your garden, keep the following suggestions in mind:
Deer
are less inclined to eat plants which are pungent or thorny.
This includes shrubs such as Juniper (Juniperus chinensis),
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris), and Holly (Ilex aquifolium), annuals
such as Zinnia (Zinnia elegans), Snapdragon (Antirrhinum
majus), and Geraniums (Pelargonium domesticum), and perrenials
including Carolina Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens), Black-eyed
Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), and Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus).
Deer
are more likely to ignore trees and shrubs with no low-hanging
limbs or branches. Several varieties of Crabapple and Plum
trees, for example, have a high canopies and often survive
deer browsing.
Wrapping
the trunks of saplings and ornamental trees with a commercial
tree wrap can help you avoid antler rubbing damage.
Often
planting an alternative food source for deer - such as lettuce
- far from your yard or garden can keep deer from venturing
further toward your prized plants.
Placing
fencing and repellents around a garden can be effective
over short periods of time. As deer become comfortable with
a yard or garden, repellents become ineffective and so should
be alternated. In addition to commercial deer repellents,
some common repellents to hang on your garden fencing include
mirrors, tin foil or other reflective surfaces, nylon stockings
filled with human hair or deoderant soap, rags soaked in
bloodmeal.
How
do I start a water garden?
At
gardenweb.com, the ponds
and aquatic plants forum covers discussion on the design,
construction and maintenance of ponds, as well as the subject
of aquatic plants in general--how to grow them, recommendations
for selections, sources for plants, etc.
Greenleaves.com
offers an extensive bibliography
on water gardens.
A
nice article, Building
a Water Garden found on the Shultz Company website,
gives basic information for creating a small water garden.
What
are the best wildflowers to attract butterflies?
Wildflowers
that attract butterflies include Asters, Bergamots (Bee
Balm), Black-eyed Susan, Blazing Stars, Coreopsis, Goldenrods,
Joe Pye Weed, Milkweeds, Mints, Onions, Purple Coneflowers,
Phlox, Sunflowers, Verbenas, and Yarrows.
There
are also shrubs that attract butterflies such as Butterfly
Bush and Lantana.
Butterflies
need nectar plants for the adult butterflies as well as
host plants for the larvae. To attract full time residents
and not just fly through visitors, a garden should have
host plants and nectar plants. The larva are particular
in their feeding habits. If a suitable foodplant is not
available the larva will starve rather than eat something
else. Adult butterflies will usually feed on nectar from
a variety of flowers, although some also have preferences.
Host plants include many species of trees, native grasses
as well as some wildflowers. Monarch Butterflies lay their
eggs exclusively on milkweed.
Butterflies,
and their host plants and nectar plants vary by region.
To learn what plants support butterflies in your region
you should consult a local source of information. There
are many sources on the World Wide Web.
Some
Great Plants for Attracting Butterflies in Central North
Carolina has extensive lists of plants for both nectaring
adults and host plants for larvae.
The
Butterfly Farm's Butterfly Gardening Guide has a regional
guide to identify the most easy to attract butterflies,
nectar plants and host/larval plants for regions in the
US and Canada.
The
butterflywebsite.com
has an extensive collection of articles on butterfly gardening.
How
do I start an herb garden?
Botanically
an herb is a plant with above-ground parts (foliage and
stems) that die back in winter. By contrast a woody plant
has persistent above-ground parts: their woody stems and
trunks. Herbaceous plants are either annuals (that complete
their life cycle within a year), perennials (that live longer
than two years), or biennials (that live only two years
--growing the first year and reproducing the second year).
Historically,
the word "herb" has referred to plants used as
seasoning, scent, medicine or dye. Herbs in this sense can
be woody plants such as rosemary; herbaceous perennials
such as thyme, sage, and mints; biennials such as chives
and parsley; or annuals such as basil and dill.
To start an herb garden, you would need almost full sun,
which is six to eight hours a day. You need good drainage
and you need to prepare the soil. The vast majority of herbs
need full sun, well-drained soil, and little in the way
of fertilizer. Overly rich soil can produce lush growth,
resulting in a lower concentration of the oils that produce
the flavor or fragrance for which the herbs are being grown.
Poorly drained soil can be corrected by incorporating coarse
materials, such as sand or gravel, to a depth of one foot.
Most herbs can be grown successfully in raised beds or containers.
Success or failure in growing herbs can be related directly
to soil preparation and sufficient sunlight.
Herbs require about the same amount of maintenance as other
perennial plants. The taller ones, might need stalking,
and the aggressive mints need to be contained. Weeds should
be removed promptly as they compete with the herbs for light
and water. Annual herbs such as basil have to be resown
or replanted each year; biennials should be allowed to set
seed, which can either be left to self-sow or collected
and sown the following spring. Hardy perennials can remain
in place in the garden. Non-hardy perennial herbs can be
dug, potted and grown in a cool sunny window for the winter.
The
choice of plants for a herb garden can satisfy a variety
of interests such as culinary, medical, historical and those
to dry for crafts. Visit gardens and nurseries and learn
about the herbs you would like to grow. There are hundreds
of books devoted to herb gardening so visit a library or
a book store. Browse the Web, here are two web sites to
get started with: Planting
an Herb Garden Part One and
Planting an Herb Garden: Part 2-- A Ladder Garden.
How
do I grow carnivorous plants?
Different
carnivorous plant species all have different growing needs.
Still, there are a few basic guidelines to keep in mind when
growing any carnivorous plant:
- Plant
in very acidic soil.
- Do not
use any fertilizer. Carnivorous plants are used to growing
in soils that lack nitrogen and other nutrients. As a result,
their roots are very sensitive and will probably be damaged
by fertilizer.
- Keep
the soil very damp. If possible, water carnivorous plants
with distilled water to protect the root system. The moderate
or high mineral content often found in tap water can damage
sensitive roots.
- Carnivorous
plants grow best in high humidity.
- Most
species require full or nearly-full sunlight.
What
carnivorous plants are native to North Carolina?
There are
39 species of carnivorous plants native in the Southeast and
30 native in North Carolina. One species which is native only
to North (and South) Carolina is Dionaea Muscipula,
the Venus' Flytrap.
Places
to hike and explore nature: Is there a list of NC State Parks?
There
are several excellent NC State Park and hiking resources.
A print listing of all NC State Parks - including Park locations,
addresses, phone numbers and facilities descriptions - is
available from the North Carolina Division of Parks and Recreation.
The listing can be requested by phone, (919) 733-7525 or email,
parkinfo@ncmail.net.
The Division provides other services to interested park visitors
as well. Please see their website for more information, http://ils.unc.edu/parkproject/index.html.
In addition,
a North Carolina Visitor's Guide is available online from
the NC Division of Tourism, Film and Sports Development, http://www.visitnc.com,
and topographic maps of all NC State Parks are available from
the North Carolina Geological Survey website, http://scc035.sips.state.nc.us/ncgeology/maps/state_park_maps.html.
What
are County Extension Agents?
The Cooperative
Extension Program was established in 1914 by the U.S.
Federal Government. The Program created a partnership between
the U.S. Department of Agriculture and U.S. land-grant universities.
The goal of the Extension Program was to create a network
that allowed USDA research findings to be passed on easily
to all American farmers. The program began by establishing
Extension offices in each state, and by 1941 Extension Agents
worked in every rural county in the country. In 1964, Extension
education programs began expanding into inner cities.
Cooperative
Extension Program agents provide free soil testing and other
research-based agricultural and economic information to all
interested citizens.
Where
are County Extension Agents?
A complete
list of all the North Carolina County Extension Agent offices,
including contact information, is now available over the internet:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/counties/.
For more information about the Cooperative Extension Program,
please contact the North Carolina Department of Agriculture
and Consumer Services at (919) 733-7125, or visit their website:
http://www.ncagr.com/.
Where
can I find a list of North Carolina Public Gardens?
The American Association of Botanical
Gardens and Arboreta (AABGA) provides an extensive listing
of member gardens. The list is searchable by state, country,
garden name, etc. To search the list, go to the AABGA homepage
(http://www.aabga.org/)
and select the "Member Gardens" button on the left hand side
of the screen.
Two other very useful lists of both public and private NC
gardens are provided by the "ilovegardens" commercial
website,
http://www.ilovegardens.com/North_Carolina_Gardens/north_carolina_gardens.htm,
and the North Carolina State University Department of Horticulture,
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/pgpages.html.
How
can I contact the Nature Conservancy? Triangle Land Conservancy??
Nature Conservancy,
North Carolina Chapter:
The Nature Conservancy
North Carolina Chapter
One University Place, Suite 290
4705 University Drive
Durham, NC 27707
Phone: (919) 403-8558
Fax: (919) 403-0379
E-mail: lwinston@tnc.org
NC chapter website: http://nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/northcarolina/
National website: http://www.tnc.org/
Triangle
Land Conservancy:
Triangle Land Conservancy
1100-A Wake Forest Road
Raleigh, NC 27604
website: http://www.tlc_nc.org
How
can I volunteer at the North Carolina Botanical Garden?
If you live
within commuting distance of NCBG and enjoy working with plants
and people, you can help with one of several Garden programs
by becoming one of our valued volunteers. Call the Program
Coordinator at 919-962-0522 for further information.
What
are the benefits of membership in the North Carolina Botanical
Garden?
In addition
to helping the Garden maintain the plants, fund the programs,
guide conservation, support research and plan for the future,
your membership contribution also provides the following additional
benefits!
- One free
designated plant, available for pick-up after April 1
- Free
seeds each spring
- 10% discount
on gifts and plants
- bimonthly
Newsletter
- invitations
to special Garden events througout the year
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