20070319.ba v04_n030.bam.20070319 >From ???@??? Mon Mar 19 04:31:24 2007 -0600 Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 10:29:52 GMT From: Old Tube Radios To: Old Tube Radios Subject: BOATANCHORS digest 4030 Message-Id: <20070319102953.77E763183BD@srvr1.theporch.com> BOATANCHORS Digest 4030 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: PL-259 tip / redux by "B. Smith" 2) Re: PL-259 tip by Paul Beckwith 3) Re: PL-259 tip by "Paul Christensen" 4) Re: PL-259 tip by "Tom Rauch" 5) Re: PL-259 tip by "Arden Allen" 6) Re: PL-259 tip by Rodger 7) Re: Boatanchorarians by wb3fau@att.net 8) Re: Boatanchorarians by Steve Berg 9) Re: Boatanchorarians by wb3fau@att.net 10) Re: PL-259 tip by wb3fau@att.net 11) Garage sale Maryland by Tom B 12) Re: PL-259 tip by "Sandy W5TVW" 13) Re: PL-259 tip by "Brian A Clarke" 14) Re: PL-259 tip by WA5CAB@cs.com 15) Re: PL-259 tip by "Art Lebermann" 16) Re: PL-259 tip by John Kolb 17) Re: PL-259 tip by "Arden Allen" 18) Re: PL-259 tip by "Tom Rauch" 19) Re: PL-259 tip by "Brian A Clarke" 20) Hosstrader Hamfesters take note by John Dilks K2TQN 21) Re: PL-259 tip by "Tom Rauch" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message-ID: <000f01c76964$f52d20d0$e9e1a243@HAL1000> From: "B. Smith" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip / redux Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 09:54:32 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Soldering a PL-259 1. Follow instructions in Handbook 2. When tinning shield use a very small amount of rosin flux. 3. Use tubing cutter to trim shield to size. 4. File shield to fit as per Marty's suggestion. 5. Apply a very small amount of rosin flux to shield 6. Use vise grips to hold connector while you screw on. 7. Solder through one or two holes, with the ultimate goal of having the solder flow completely through out the inside of the connector. Note: For high power this is essential! 8. Let cool before soldering the center connector. If possible use a Teflon connector for better insurance against the heat. Spend the extra buck and purchase decent connectors. Rosin Flux at Rad Shack part number 64-022, 64-021 While you are there pick up some of the magic tip cleaner 64-020 During process if you have floor problems with Weller iron see: http://solo11.abac.com/zorroab1/WellerIrons/Wellerpage1.html275 73 breck k4che EX KN4CHE Dover, Delaware. Ann't nutten in Dover except a NASCAR track, chickens, and hams that can't solder. ----- Original Message ----- | | Tin braid w. a weller then flat file it to diameter req'd | by PL259 inner gridley... flat-file biz is an essential | difference - eliminates need for weller AND tinning | torch | | Slip threaded shell over coax. | | SPIT on RG8's vinyl. | | Thread connector on (the inner gridley) Then solder center tip | & just ONE of the shield braid holes | | You're done & it seems permananent & fast | | 'rm | ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 08:06:05 -0700 To: Old Tube Radios From: Paul Beckwith Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Message-Id: <20070318150614.1F89C1001C8@relay04.roc.ny.frontiernet.net> Hand raised. 73's de Paul K2LMQ At 05:46 AM 3/18/2007, john wrote: >Thanks Dave ....I'd be willing to bet there's more than one person >who's forgotten to put the shell on (or the reducer) before >soldering. Everyone raise their hands..... > >John (raising hand) ------------------------------ Message-ID: <041101c76993$e01bdd60$72163405@Dorm> From: "Paul Christensen" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 15:30:23 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > The hardest part of this procedure is screwing on the connector. Often, > the connector shell seems to grab the vinyl sleeving and twists it, thus > deforming the coax and occasionally ripping the sleeve. Jim, Excellent suggestions. I particularly like the idea of using a small pipe cutter on the vinyl jacket and tinned braid. Regarding the vinyl jacket twist -- For several years, I have been applying a light coat of silicone spray onto the cable jacket and the inner connector threads. Silicone is an excellent anti-seizing agent, has good RF electrical resistance properties and as such, works very well in this application. Paul, W9AC ------------------------------ Message-ID: <026501c769b4$19bc5070$640fa8c0@radioroom> From: "Tom Rauch" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 19:20:50 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In production environments we never used a tubing cutter. All you need to do is tin the shield and scribe it with a sharp knife. Then you grab it with pliers and it will break right off at the scribe line and look perfect unless you didn't fully tin all the strands. We used a solder pot to tin but other methods work. I do all my cables by stripping the jacket back, tinning the shield, scribing the shield with a sharp carpet knife, breaking the shield, and then cutting and stripping the center. One of the most important things I do is high pot the cable. A properly installed UHF connector will hold off about 5kV peak. 73 Tom ------------------------------ Message-ID: <002f01c769b4$b9c05d50$99e47443@KB6NAX> From: "Arden Allen" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 16:25:24 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I feel denied. No one mentioned using WD-40 for lubing the jacket. Well, seems to be some confusion in my mind (not hard to cause). I always hate installing PL-259's on RG-8 'cause I never seem to get the correct amount of heat into the junction of the shield and body. Too much and polyethylene starts oozing out. Not enough and polyethylene starts oozing out. Pretinning the braid needs filing, as Marty sez, but I don't like to pretin because of the time it takes to do all that file-to-fitting. I'd like to dig up the inventor of the PL-259 and re-lynch him! Then there's the infamous reducer (it ain't a shell!). Musta been the inventor's retarded nephew that came up with that brilliance (sorry, Belden). No place for the RG-58 shield to hold onto without more oozing polyethylene. Soldering the reducer, shield, and Pl-259 body together is one fell blast of heat is like dualing with death in the short circuit incarnation. And then it's scorched workbench to get it apart if needed. It is written, that all connectors should be reusable! It shouldn't be possible to fail so easily with two steady hands and one reasonably sound mind. PL-259's should have been the primary focus of an episode of the PBS series "Connections." A pretty bumpy ride down Technology Lane, I'd conclude. Probably couldn't get it together.... Arden KB6NAX ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45FDD471.7040305@dtnspeed.net> Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 19:08:17 -0500 From: Rodger MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There has been some great information in this thread. I felt I was doing okay installing PL-259s until I recently had to install a couple of connectors on some LMR-400 direct burial cable with the water inhibitor added. This has a foil shield around the center conductor insulation in addition to the braided shield. I have used this before but with this particular batch of coax the foil adheres to the insulation like it had been glued on and I like to clean the foil back a short distance from the end of the center coax insulation. I am glad I only had to run one piece of this stuff! Rodger WQ9E > > > ------------------------------ From: wb3fau@att.net To: Old Tube Radios Cc: Scott Robinson Subject: Re: Boatanchorarians Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 00:21:50 +0000 Message-Id: <031920070021.27710.45FDD79E000A99D700006C3E21603759649A0E00CC0D99@att.net> Filamentarians sure is broad term for someone who likes boatanchors? Just because I own a lite bulb [non-led] hardly makes me a boatanchor advocate. Russ. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45FDDA01.6080007@tbc.net> Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 19:32:01 -0500 From: Steve Berg MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Old Tube Radios Cc: Old Tube Radios , Scott Robinson Subject: Re: Boatanchorarians Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes, but it is much less awkward than thermionic emission aficianados or heated cathodians. 73, Steve WA9JML wb3fau@att.net wrote: > Filamentarians sure is broad term for someone who likes boatanchors? Just because I own a > lite bulb [non-led] hardly makes me a boatanchor advocate. Russ. > > > > ------------------------------ From: wb3fau@att.net To: Old Tube Radios Cc: Old Tube Radios , Scott Robinson Subject: Re: Boatanchorarians Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 01:01:41 +0000 Message-Id: <031920070101.1646.45FDE0F500097DE90000066E21603759649A0E00CC0D99@att.net> maybe thermocouples would be appropriate? ------------------------------ From: wb3fau@att.net To: Old Tube Radios Cc: Rodger Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 01:07:54 +0000 Message-Id: <031920070107.6780.45FDE26A00021EAC00001A7C21603759649A0E00CC0D99@att.net> Yes friends of BA-ville, [and PL259s] these devices are not considered waterproof, so depending on where you use them, will determine if you need to provide this, as in waterproof tape. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 21:13:26 -0400 To: Old Tube Radios From: Tom B Subject: Garage sale Maryland Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Message-Id: <20070319011322.6CC515711@mail.nova.org> Hello All, I am selling some stuff to make room on my garage. I will be having a garage sale in Silver Spring Maryland (20904) on Saturday March 24 from 9:00AM to 2:00 PM. Below is a short list of some of the stuff I will be selling. I will be adding more for the sale. Please email me for directions. Tom Bryan N3AJA Aiken Industries SN2080 Synthesizer (special purpose, for use with 2080 series receiver) BC-221B frequency meter BC-221T frequency meter UGC-129 TTY machine ARR-5 ARR-7 ARC-55 ARC-4 Hallicrafter HT-37, one mod, $55 Heathkit Seneca model VHF-1, several mods, $35 Realistic DX-302 receiver, $100 Bird model 43 Wattmeter with three slugs, 250W 100-250 MHz, 50W 100-250 MHz, 50W 200-500 MHz, $200 Collins KWM-2, SN 13XX, with 516F2 power supply, mobile mount, and 12VDC power supply. Needs power cord $850. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <001d01c769ca$0ef4e830$7ba1cdd1@gateway> From: "Sandy W5TVW" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 20:58:14 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Haven't seen this mentioned. I modify ALL my PL-259's before I used them. On the main body of the plus where the solder holes are located, file a circular trough perpendicular to the longitudanal axis of the connector with a 5/32" chain saw file. This with the file exactly over the solder hole. File the trough deep enough so that there is almost a thin knife edge at the bottom of the "trough". Only two holes need be filed on opposite sides of the connector. When you apply the solder it will flow much easier, heat quicker and look much neater. 73, Sandy W5TVW ----- Original Message ----- From: "Arden Allen" To: "Old Tube Radios" Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 6:25 PM Subject: Re: PL-259 tip >I feel denied. No one mentioned using WD-40 for lubing the jacket. > > Well, seems to be some confusion in my mind (not hard to cause). I always > hate installing PL-259's on RG-8 'cause I never seem to get the correct > amount of heat into the junction of the shield and body. Too much and > polyethylene starts oozing out. Not enough and polyethylene starts oozing > out. Pretinning the braid needs filing, as Marty sez, but I don't like to > pretin because of the time it takes to do all that file-to-fitting. I'd > like to dig up the inventor of the PL-259 and re-lynch him! > > Then there's the infamous reducer (it ain't a shell!). Musta been the > inventor's retarded nephew that came up with that brilliance (sorry, > Belden). No place for the RG-58 shield to hold onto without more oozing > polyethylene. Soldering the reducer, shield, and Pl-259 body together is > one fell blast of heat is like dualing with death in the short circuit > incarnation. And then it's scorched workbench to get it apart if needed. > It is written, that all connectors should be reusable! > > It shouldn't be possible to fail so easily with two steady hands and one > reasonably sound mind. PL-259's should have been the primary focus of an > episode of the PBS series "Connections." A pretty bumpy ride down > Technology Lane, I'd conclude. Probably couldn't get it together.... > > Arden > KB6NAX > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.13/726 - Release Date: 3/18/2007 > 3:34 PM > > ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003401c769cb$4943b4c0$0202a8c0@Belkin> From: "Brian A Clarke" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 13:07:02 +1100 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What I find strange is that anyone should even consider using PL-259 connectors. They are not constant impedance, are not waterproof and are very difficult to reuse. Some of the foreign ones are chrome plated which makes them look wonderful, but impossible to solder. Where I want good impedance matching, waterproof and reusable connectors of the same form factor as PL-259, I use N-type. For smaller cable, such as RG-58, I use BNC or TNC. 73 de Brian, VK2GCE ------------------------------ From: WA5CAB@cs.com Message-ID: Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 23:13:43 EDT Subject: Re: PL-259 tip To: Old Tube Radios MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_cc8.d05a1ec.332f59e7_boundary" --part1_cc8.d05a1ec.332f59e7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well, obviously one uses PL-259's on equipment equipped with UHF connectors. In a message dated 3/18/2007 8:09:01 PM Central Standard Time, brianclarke01@optusnet.com.au writes: > What I find strange is that anyone should even consider using PL-259 > connectors. They are not constant impedance, are not waterproof and > are very difficult to reuse. Some of the foreign ones are chrome plated > which makes them look wonderful, but impossible to solder. > > Where I want good impedance matching, waterproof and reusable > connectors of the same form factor as PL-259, I use N-type. For > smaller cable, such as RG-58, I use BNC or TNC. Robert & Susan Downs - Houston (Web Store) MVPA 9480 (Primary email) (Backup email) --part1_cc8.d05a1ec.332f59e7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- * * This post contains a forbidden message format * * (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) * * Mail Lists at theporch.com only accept PLAIN TEXT * * If your postings display this message your mail program * * is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * --part1_cc8.d05a1ec.332f59e7_boundary-- ------------------------------ Message-ID: <380-22007311933717815@earthlink.net> From: "Art Lebermann" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 20:37:17 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII If you have equipment with UHF connectors, you can use a "between-series" adapter - such as a "UHF-Male / N-Female". You can then use co-ax with the "good" connectors, though you still don't have a constant impedance connection. If the equipment manufacturer didn't worry about that, I won't either. 73, Art Lebermann W6REQ Transmitter Engineer ABC Radio, San Francisco > [Original Message] > From: > To: Old Tube Radios > Date: 3/18/2007 8:15:10 PM > Subject: Re: PL-259 tip > > Well, obviously one uses PL-259's on equipment equipped with UHF connectors. > > In a message dated 3/18/2007 8:09:01 PM Central Standard Time, > brianclarke01@optusnet.com.au writes: > > What I find strange is that anyone should even consider using PL-259 > > connectors. They are not constant impedance, are not waterproof and > > are very difficult to reuse. Some of the foreign ones are chrome plated > > which makes them look wonderful, but impossible to solder. > > > > Where I want good impedance matching, waterproof and reusable > > connectors of the same form factor as PL-259, I use N-type. For > > smaller cable, such as RG-58, I use BNC or TNC. > > Robert & Susan Downs - Houston > (Web Store) > MVPA 9480 > (Primary email) > (Backup email) > ------------------------------ Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.1.20070318203631.01d10d98@jlkolb.cts.com> Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 20:43:26 -0800 To: Old Tube Radios From: John Kolb Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I almost always make UHF to BNC adapters which I put on the equipment, and use BNC cables to them. Adapters are easily made by soldering a couple of inches of buss wire on the center contact of a chassis mount female BNC, sticking the wire through the center conductor pin of the UHF male, and inserting the BNC into the UHF as far as it will go. Install the outter screwdown on the UHF connector first if necessary. It can go on later on most BNC's. Solder the junction of the BNC outter conductor metal to the UHF outter metal. Solder the UHF center connector. Install the outter screwdown if not previously installed (easier to hole the UHF body in a vise without it). Done. John At 07:13 PM 3/18/2007, WA5CAB@cs.com wrote: >Well, obviously one uses PL-259's on equipment equipped with UHF connectors. > >In a message dated 3/18/2007 8:09:01 PM Central Standard Time, >brianclarke01@optusnet.com.au writes: > > What I find strange is that anyone should even consider using PL-259 > > connectors. They are not constant impedance, are not waterproof and > > are very difficult to reuse. Some of the foreign ones are chrome plated > > which makes them look wonderful, but impossible to solder. > > > > Where I want good impedance matching, waterproof and reusable > > connectors of the same form factor as PL-259, I use N-type. For > > smaller cable, such as RG-58, I use BNC or TNC. > >Robert & Susan Downs - Houston > (Web Store) >MVPA 9480 > (Primary email) > (Backup email) > > > >Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.13/632 - Release Date: >1/16/2007 4:36 PM ------------------------------ Message-ID: <007101c769f0$da6a1000$d6e47443@KB6NAX> From: "Arden Allen" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2007 23:34:18 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brian the iconoclast: > What I find strange is that anyone should even consider using PL-259 > connectors. It is the mark of a true Boatanchorist to use those damned things. > They are not constant impedance, are not waterproof and > are very difficult to reuse. Right on all counts but who cares?. Johnson used them on their 800MHz commercial two-ways for years. An impedance departure that is a small fraction of a wavelength poses little peril to the signal. It just makes video a little bit ratty looking, can add fuzz to FM, but hams live with low S numbers every day and I imagine the last thing that crosses their minds is, "oh, if I could just find something better than those PL-259's I could get a 0.001DB improvement in s/n......" And as long as China keeps making cheap imitations of 3M black electrical tape the water stays out. And as a confirmed masochist I'd rather reuse than spend a nickel at RS. Arden Allen KB6NAX ------------------------------ Message-ID: <02bd01c76a03$55d88d90$640fa8c0@radioroom> From: "Tom Rauch" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 04:48:07 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >> What I find strange is that anyone should even consider >> using PL-259 >> connectors. >> They are not constant impedance, are not waterproof and >> are very difficult to reuse. > > Right on all counts but who cares?. Johnson used them on > their 800MHz > commercial two-ways for years. An impedance departure > that is a small > fraction of a wavelength poses little peril to the signal. > It just makes > video The actual impedance bump area in a UHF male/female junction is confined exclusively to the the area of the female where the center conductor diameter is larger than required. That amounts to an area about 1/2 inch long where the impedance is about 35 ohms or higher. The problem is always in the female area. In a female chassis mount the bump is virtually always larger in your connection than in the connector itself. The male is virtually perfect. What amazes me is we even hear the impedance argument when virtually 100% of the boatanchor or other HF equipment we use has inches of area that isn't close to 50 ohms at all, and the bump has no effect on anything. Does your HF rig quit working because it has a 5 inch long area between the tank and intenal network that is 100-200 ohms? Then why worry about a 1.4 :1 SWR that is confined to 1/2 inch? Another thing people forget is the UHF connector is not only easy to use, it is robust. I typically highpot all my cables and a reasonable quality UHF connector can handle 5kV or more on peaks before arcing, and will easily handle 10 amperes at 1MHz. The N has a spacing virtually identical to a BNC, and like the BNC become unreliable when high current or high voltage is present. We are lucky to get 1/2 the voltage and 1/2 the current capacity of a UHF when using the N connector. When I get old hardline the first thing I do is remove and machine the frigging N connectors into UHF style. The only place I keep N's is on low power systems above 100MHz. 73 Tom ------------------------------ Message-ID: <018d01c76a0b$b91082c0$0202a8c0@Belkin> From: "Brian A Clarke" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 20:48:17 +1100 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Now let's see, Tom. 5 kV peak into 50 Ohm is 250 kW. I suppose that is wonderful in the land of consummate consumerism where no ham bothers to keep below 1 kW - that would be too wimpish. For legal power in most world jurisdictions, 400 W to 1 kW is enough. Then, a BNC or an N-type is more than sufficient. 73 de Brian, VK2GCE ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 06:04:03 -0400 To: Old Tube Radios From: John Dilks K2TQN Subject: Hosstrader Hamfesters take note Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Message-Id: <20070319100446.AE980187AFF@srvr1.theporch.com> Hosstrader Hamfesters take note, here is the successor The NEW ENGLAND AMATEUR RADIO FESTIVAL (NEAR-Fest) will hold its' Spring 2007 get-together and flea market on Friday May 4th and Saturday May 5th at the Deerfield Fairgrounds located on Highway 43 in the Town of Deerfield, New Hampshire USA. http://near-fest.com Be there! Aloha. 73, Michael, W1RC ------------------------------ Message-ID: <02d801c76a11$73e3b680$640fa8c0@radioroom> From: "Tom Rauch" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 06:29:10 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > 5 kV peak into 50 Ohm is 250 kW. I suppose that is > wonderful in > the land of consummate consumerism where no ham bothers to > keep > below 1 kW - that would be too wimpish. > For legal power in most world jurisdictions, 400 W to 1 kW > is > enough. Then, a BNC or an N-type is more than sufficient. I think you missed the point. If there ever is a connector failure it is much more likely to be in a N than in the poor, maligned UHF connector. I transmit on the wrong antenna, sometimes use a tuner in the shack to get on a band where I don't have an antenna, and lightning hits several times a year and my UHF connectors never blow out. On the other hand any N connectors in my cables connected to big antennas generally have a life of a few years. Once in a while someone whines about constant impedance, but they don't seem to think about what that actually means to the system. The tiny impedance bump in the connector doesn't make a bit of difference to anyone below 100 MHz. It doesn't even matter at 400MHz unless you have a group of bumps stacked or don't use hooded UHF females. The only real area of debate is the weatherproofing, but that is easily handled in any connector. So really, there is no reason at all to use an N connector unless we enjoy installing them, our rig already uses them, we get them for free, or we are emotionally attached to them. Any one of those reasons is fine, but let's just admit the real reason. It sure isn't performance! 73 Tom ------------------------------ End of BOATANCHORS Digest 4030 ******************************