20070320.ba v04_n031.bam.20070320 >From ???@??? Tue Mar 20 11:45:06 2007 -0600 Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 17:44:05 GMT From: Old Tube Radios To: Old Tube Radios Subject: BOATANCHORS digest 4031 Message-Id: <20070320174408.8AA96317EFD@srvr1.theporch.com> BOATANCHORS Digest 4031 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: PL-259 tip by "David Stinson" 2) Re: PL-259 tip by wb3fau@att.net 3) Re: PL-259 tip by "Herbert M. Rosenthal" 4) Re: PL-259 tip by "Al Parker" 5) Re: PL-259 tip by "Sandy W5TVW" 6) Re: PL-259 tip by Dan Arney 7) More PL-259 stuff by "James C. Garland" <4cx250b@muohio.edu> 8) Re: More "N" stuff by "Al Parker" 9) Re: More "N" stuff by wb3fau@att.net 10) N females v/s UHF females (SO-239's) by "Arden Allen" 11) Re: PL-259 tip by "Arden Allen" 12) Re: PL-259 tip by "Arden Allen" 13) Re: More PL-259 stuff by "Arden Allen" 14) WTB: pair of 75TH's & pair of ZB-120's by John Poulton 15) 37 tube for Philco by "Tom Rauch" 16) Re: More "N" stuff by "Tom Rauch" 17) Re: More PL-259 stuff by spr@earthlink.net 18) those damn coax connectors by Bob Roehrig 19) Those coax connectors by "B. Smith" 20) Re: Those coax connectors by Buzz 21) RF Condoms / was: PL-259 tip by "Marty Reynolds' debris field" 22) Re: Those coax connectors by "Tom Rauch" 23) Bending Antennas by Richard Dillman ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message-ID: <001801c76a14$22e56e60$fa01fea9@Default> From: "David Stinson" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 04:48:30 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A tip for anyone using PL-259s at 400 MHZ: the longer (3-4 inches; never measured one) female-female "bullets" typically used thru-bulkhead are dandy attenuators at 400 mhz. Had to change quite a few of them out in commercial apps. Don't know why; I ain't that smart. I just know it's so. 73 Dave S. P.S. Put me down as a "fan" of the PL-259. N's are such a pain in the neck, and the ones you buy today are junk. The center pin breaks easily. ------------------------------ From: wb3fau@att.net To: Old Tube Radios Cc: "Arden Allen" Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 12:54:52 +0000 Message-Id: <031920071254.4449.45FE881C0006AF830000116121612436469A0E00CC0D99@att.net> You need to talk to Mr Amphenol, Arden. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45FE9716.3040708@comcast.net> Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 06:58:46 -0700 From: "Herbert M. Rosenthal" MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit More ideas for good connections: 1. Scrape across the 4 solder holes with a pocket knife down to the bare brass, and you can make a better connection than trying to solder to the plated metal (this sort of follows the chain saw file idea). Use only the white, TF connectors. 2. Most important: I use a 250 watt HEXACON iron with about a 1/4" wedge tip, well tinned. Use resin 60/40 solder (never mind OSHA) and no paste flux(no corrosion down the road). If you get the heat transfer done quickley, you rarely melt the plastic, and you get a nice, shiny solder connection on both the inner and outer connections.. A hot iron is usually the answer to good solder joints, wherever they may be. 3. Fill the male connector with silicon grease before you screw it into the socket on an external connection. When it is completely screwed on, wipe the excess off, and you have a good waterproof connection that will last for years; we did that in Anchorage on hundreds of Motorola 2 way mobiles, and I never saw moisture condense within a connector. Far better than black plastic tape to exclude moisture. Herb W5AN Albuquerque ---------------- Sandy W5TVW wrote: > Haven't seen this mentioned. ... ------------------------------ Message-ID: <04a701c76a2f$f12a5900$3201a8c0@w8ut> From: "Al Parker" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 10:07:33 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Tom, et al, I agree completely. I always chuckle when this issue comes up, as it invariably does. Now that it's been said, I think I'll just delete any more msgs on this all-too-long thread, there have been some good tips on their use come up, tho'. 73, Al, W8UT, New Bern, NC www.boatanchors.org www.hammarlund.info ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Rauch" > > What amazes me is we even hear the impedance argument when > virtually 100% of the boatanchor or other HF equipment we > use has inches of area that isn't close to 50 ohms at all, > and the bump has no effect on anything. > > Does your HF rig quit working because it has a 5 inch long > area between the tank and intenal network that is 100-200 > ohms? Then why worry about a 1.4 :1 SWR that is confined to > 1/2 inch? > ------------------------------ Message-ID: <009b01c76a37$ea743ba0$5ea1cdd1@gateway> From: "Sandy W5TVW" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 10:04:37 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Weatherproofing? I used one cure for this: Scotch #23 rubber splicing tape. Donno if they still make it. Scotch #130C linerless splicing tape OK too. It isn't really rubber, some kind of synthetic stuff. One should stretch it as you wind it around the connector to be waterproofed. Use at least 3 layers or more. It streches quite thin and if you run out, it can be added to easily. The stuff "self vulcanizes" after a while and will completely resist entry of any liquids. The offshore oilfield guys used to use it on sub-sea stuff (under water) that needed protection. I used it for years on antenna tuner and satellite gear coax connectors that were subject to saltwater spray on board ocean going ships. If you must get a connector loose, it's a matter of just cutting thru the mass and it comes off easily. Some people use "Scotch coat" for this but it's VERY messy to get loose if the need occurs. Both tapes are "Self fusing Ethylene Propylene Polymer". The 130C tape is supposed to be good in environments up to 130 degrees Centigrade, hence the "type number". 73, Sandy W5TVW ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Rauch" To: "Old Tube Radios" Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 5:29 AM Subject: Re: PL-259 tip > >> 5 kV peak into 50 Ohm is 250 kW. I suppose that is wonderful in >> the land of consummate consumerism where no ham bothers to keep >> below 1 kW - that would be too wimpish. >> For legal power in most world jurisdictions, 400 W to 1 kW is >> enough. Then, a BNC or an N-type is more than sufficient. > > I think you missed the point. > > If there ever is a connector failure it is much more likely to be in a N > than in the poor, maligned UHF connector. I transmit on the wrong antenna, > sometimes use a tuner in the shack to get on a band where I don't have an > antenna, and lightning hits several times a year and my UHF connectors > never blow out. On the other hand any N connectors in my cables connected > to big antennas generally have a life of a few years. > > Once in a while someone whines about constant impedance, but they don't > seem to think about what that actually means to the system. The tiny > impedance bump in the connector doesn't make a bit of difference to anyone > below 100 MHz. It doesn't even matter at 400MHz unless you have a group of > bumps stacked or don't use hooded UHF females. > > The only real area of debate is the weatherproofing, but that is easily > handled in any connector. So really, there is no reason at all to use an N > connector unless we enjoy installing them, our rig already uses them, we > get them for free, or we are emotionally attached to them. Any one of > those reasons is fine, but let's just admit the real reason. It sure isn't > performance! > > 73 Tom > > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.13/726 - Release Date: 3/18/2007 > 3:34 PM > > ------------------------------ Message-ID: <45FEAF8D.7040304@pacbell.net> Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 10:43:09 -0500 From: Dan Arney MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Old Tube Radios CC: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sandy, I use 3M Type 70 which is the same type of self vulcanizing tape. Not cheap $25.00 a roll and-40 to 356F Versus Type 23 at $11.00 a roll and -40 o 194F. Hank KN6DI ------------------------------ Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.2.20070319104308.024c50c8@muohio.edu> Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 11:02:54 -0600 To: Old Tube Radios From: "James C. Garland" <4cx250b@muohio.edu> Subject: More PL-259 stuff Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hope you'll forgive me for wading in with some more on this (lengthy) thread: I'm in the camp with Tom and Dave about preferring PL-259 over "N" connectors. For about a decade, I switched all my high power stuff over to "N" connectors, in part becanse Collins used them on their ham amplifiers, and partly because I could pick up nice mil-spec coaxial relays at hamfests (Transco motorized switches, "Y" relays, and the like) and these generally had "N" connectors. In hindsight, the Collins rationale was particularly dumb: after all, Collins also pioneered the use of RCA phono connectors -- probably the world's worst connector -- for RF outputs. I've now abandoned that commitment. For outoor use, I had frequent problems with intermittent contact between the center pins of N-connectors, especially in cold weather. This would often show up as a loss of receive sensitivity, but the contact would be temporarily restored when I transmitted. Also, I would occasionally arc over the connectors on motorized rotary switches. This was sometimes my fault, as when I had the wrong antenna connected, or was trying to use an antenna tuner to match a coax fed antenna with a high SWR. (Parenthetically, I'm a volunteer on a local wireless internet group, and we're constantly having problems with intermittent contact on the N-connectors on jumper cables that connect dish antennas to mast-mounted 2.4GHz transceivers.) I've NEVER flashed over a UHF connector, although I've botched the installation on a quite a few and had to cut them off and start over. I always use BNC connectors with RG58 or RG8X cable for power levels below a couple of hundred watts and have neve had any trouble. Actually, I'd prefer to use TNC connectors (same as BNC, but with screw on instead of bayonette shells), but they're hard to find. Re weatherproofing: I've used Scotch 88 tape for years and it works great, even for twenty years or more, and even in nasty midwestern weather. Finally, I know many people stuff silicone grease into connectors with good results. But I don't understand why that doesn't mess up the contact between mating metal pieces. 73, Jim W8ZR ************************* James C. Garland 102 Spur Ranch Road Santa Fe, NM 87540 www.w8zr.net ************************* ------------------------------ Message-ID: <051801c76a54$1c98c6c0$3201a8c0@w8ut> From: "Al Parker" To: Old Tube Radios Cc: "Lynn, K5LYN" , Subject: Re: More "N" stuff Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 13:26:28 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi folks, Lets change the subject a hair. Jim's comment may explain the problem I've been seeing here with my tri-band beam. I hadn't correlated it to outside temperature, but the restoration of receive sensitivity after transmitting has been happening here. I dug spider nests out of traps in the driven element over a yr ago and the trouble disappeared for a while, but maybe it's the connector up there that's doing it. I know there's at least 1 "N" type up there on one side of the ferrite donuts on a section of coax, plus more N's between there and the shack. I'll ck'em all. If I shotgun DeOxit them it'll go quickly, but I probably won't know which one's the culprit. Unfortunately I have to borrow a 25+ft ladder to get to things at the beam. My tower is a tubular crankup, nice, but unclimbable. The beam is at abt 25-28ft when down. Thanks for the tip. It's been a long thread, but some good things have come out of it. 73, Al, W8UT, New Bern, NC www.boatanchors.org www.hammarlund.info ----- Original Message ----- From: "James C. Garland" <4cx250b@muohio.edu> I've now abandoned that commitment. For outoor use, I had frequent problems with intermittent contact between the center pins of N-connectors, especially in cold weather. This would often show up as a loss of receive sensitivity, but the contact would be temporarily restored when I transmitted. ------------------------------ From: wb3fau@att.net To: Old Tube Radios Cc: "Lynn, K5LYN" , Subject: Re: More "N" stuff Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 18:18:37 +0000 Message-Id: <031920071818.23131.45FED3FC000B804D00005A5B21603762239A0E00CC0D99@att.net> Perhaps you are experiencing oxidation due to dissimilar metals coming in contact? You might try silver plated connectors. Russ. ------------------------------ Message-ID: <005601c76a57$3be04140$8ae47443@KB6NAX> From: "Arden Allen" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: N females v/s UHF females (SO-239's) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 11:09:24 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes, I'm confining my comments to the females of the two species. That's where the reliability problems reside (with apogies to the feminists on the List). In the UHF female the receiving (oh, this is exciting!) contact is confined within the molded housing making it less likely to be spread apart by a misaligned male contact. The N female contact is unsupported and unlike the near same size contact in the BNC/TNC configuration is not cofined within a surrounding housing. The N female contact is much more susceptable to spreading and breakage. With damaged contacts contact resistance becomes a problem. For example, if contact resistance rises to 100 milliohms 0.9 watts of power will be dissipated with a 3 ampere current. While there is enough metal to keep things cool enough the heat is generated at contacting micro-points where actual temperature rise can sufficiently enervate the corrosion process to increase contact resistance. In systems that handle moderate power levels connector reliability becomes a problem. In high power systems complete connector failure is only a matter of time. With proper care both N and UHF connectors will give reliable service in the HF and VHF bands at amateur power levels. But odds are N's will prove to be more troublesome. Arden Allen KB6NAX ------------------------------ Message-ID: <005701c76a57$3c89c7b0$8ae47443@KB6NAX> From: "Arden Allen" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 11:14:29 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > You need to talk to Mr Amphenol, Arden. W'ere old buddies. I look for Amphenols in the junque boxes at the fleas. Better a corroded Amphenol than a shiny new thermoplastic containing hunk of pot metal from afar. Arden Allen KB6NAX ------------------------------ Message-ID: <005801c76a57$3d2bd410$8ae47443@KB6NAX> From: "Arden Allen" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: PL-259 tip Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 11:24:41 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > .......Use only > the white, TF [teflon] connectors. Don't get fooled by the white thermoplastic el cheapos! > 3. Fill the male connector with silicon grease ......... I never saw moisture condense within a connector. Far > better than black plastic tape to exclude moisture. I did both on an antenna with a UHF at its base. Ten years later when I took it down the connectors looked like the day I installed the antenna. BUT.....use only electrical grade silicone grease to avoid possible corrosion problems. Some silicone greases are contaminated with ions that will turn things green. A potential problem? Arden Allen KB6NAX ------------------------------ Message-ID: <006f01c76a5a$d501e2e0$8ae47443@KB6NAX> From: "Arden Allen" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: More PL-259 stuff Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 12:12:06 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > ......Finally, I know many people stuff silicone grease into connectors > with good results. But I don't understand why that doesn't mess up > the contact between mating metal pieces. A proper lubricant situated with electrical contacts is actually better than air for maintaining low contact resistance. Lubricants are composed of polymers, i.e., large ball like molecules that roll around making things slippery. Instead of getting between electrical contacting surfaces they squeeze out because they are both slippery and shape adaptable. With millions of the things surrounding contacts air and other contaminents are prevented from reaching the contacts. Harmful contamination that becomes entrapped in the lubricant is embalmed preventing it from doing its nasty work. As long as the lubricant does not decompose and lose its lubricious qualities the connector is protected. Silicone grease has a very long life and withstands extremes of temperature without melting, hardening and eventually decomposing like ordinary petroleum based lubricants do. Arden Allen KB6NAX ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 15:54:50 -0400 (EDT) From: John Poulton To: Old Tube Radios Subject: WTB: pair of 75TH's & pair of ZB-120's Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Folks, I'm looking for a pair of 75TH's to keep as spares for a Collins 30K-1 transmitter. I'm also looking for a pair of fairly exotic tubes, the Amperex ZB-120 ("zero-bias"). These tubes were also known as Collins C120's, and perhaps as 3C21, CEO220, or just "120". They look a bit like 211's that went through the wash and shrank a bit, 4-pin base with alignment pin, about 7" tall. These are needed for the (extensive!) restoration of a 30J-18. Anyone have either of these tube types they'd like to sell...? Would be happy to negotiate for 1, 2, or more of each. I'd also be very interested in corresponding with other 30J owners out there... 73, John K4OZY -- ------------------------------ Message-ID: <032e01c76a64$e108e980$640fa8c0@radioroom> From: "Tom Rauch" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: 37 tube for Philco Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 16:26:12 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm working on an old Philco radio and need two 37 tubes. If anyone has a couple of spares please e-mail me. 73 Tom ------------------------------ Message-ID: <038401c76a79$33ae8190$640fa8c0@radioroom> From: "Tom Rauch" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: More "N" stuff Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 18:51:46 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Jim's comment may explain the problem I've been seeing > here with my > tri-band beam. I hadn't correlated it to outside > temperature, but the > restoration of receive sensitivity after transmitting has > been happening > here. I dug spider nests out of traps in the driven > element over a yr ago > and the trouble disappeared for a while, but maybe it's > the connector up > there that's doing it. I know there's at least 1 "N" type > up there on one > side of the ferrite donuts on a section of coax, plus more > N's between there > and the shack. I'll ck'em all. If I shotgun DeOxit them > it'll go quickly, > but I probably won't know which one's the culprit. Al, I'd try to be sure it is a connector. By the way... N's have two flavors, 75 ohm and 50 ohm. They are one of the few connectors that have different size center pins in otherwise identical connectors! If someone mixes the two problems exactly like you describe occur. Another source of problem is the center pin pulling back. That's pretty common also. Unless the system really requires an N connector I avoid them. 73 Tom ------------------------------ Message-ID: <21309126.1174344855107.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 18:54:15 -0400 (EDT) From: spr@earthlink.net To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: More PL-259 stuff Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Folks, For those who wish to use silicone grease for water prevention-an idea I heartily endorse-I recommend GE part number G-623 Insulgrease. I have used it to protect fine threaded bolts on the bottoms of cars in Boston salty winters and it just had nothing to say to water; the fastener came off five year later as if it had been put on the day before. The PL-259 splice in the lead from my receiving antenna is done up with this grease inside and sealed on the outside (I hope) with duct-tape. It's lying amongst the grass and other weeds in my back yard and all seems to be well a year or so in. Peace, scott ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 19:31:36 -0500 (CDT) From: Bob Roehrig To: Old Tube Radios Subject: those damn coax connectors Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed You haven't had connector problems until you have tried to get/keep a VHF repeater on the air. We recently moved our repeater from a city owned water tower to a private tower a half mile away. We have a brand new repeater, a brand new antenna, and new inch & 5/8 coax. Less than 6 months after the install, the system is so noisy it could not be used. Fortunately, there is a lesser quality, but spare antenna on the same tower we can temporarily use til the climbers can go check into the problem. Any bad connection really manifests itself when you are trying to simultaneously transmit and receive on the same antenna! Total receiver desense! Bob Roehrig Aurora University Telecom dept. broehrig@aurora.edu K9EUI W9ZGP WD2XSH/19 630-844-4898 fax 630-844-4222 "Nostalgia is a thing of the past" ------------------------------ Message-ID: <001801c76a8d$3d7e2a40$e9e1a243@HAL1000> From: "B. Smith" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Those coax connectors Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 21:14:00 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The first thing I do before installation of a commercial VHF or UHF antenna is remove the N connectors and "properly" install PL-259's. The climbers will now have less problems with installing the hardline and pig tails. Overall you will have less chance of a miss-aligned N connector. Been there, done that. breck k4che ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Roehrig" | | You haven't had connector problems until you have tried to get/keep a VHF | repeater on the air. | ------------------------------ From: Buzz To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: Those coax connectors Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 22:10:07 -0800 Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Years ago when they were installing the first CCTV system in the area I = sat down in the grass while the two installers were having lunch. After talking = techie stuff we got around to corrosion in exposed rf connectors. One of the = guys went to the back of his truck and came back with a hand full of shrink tubing = about 10" long, that was coated on the inside and had a wax paper sleeve in it.= He told me to slip the tubing over the cable, make my connection then slip = the sleeving over the connection and remove the wax paper. Start heat = shrinking in the center then work towards the ends. When I did as he told me a waxy = goo came out at each end which I was able to wipe away. I never had a connection = fail after that. So ya might wanna buddy up to a cable crew, or check the web for = connection coverings. Buzz On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 21:14:00 -0400, you wrote: >The first thing I do before installation of a commercial VHF or UHF = antenna=20 >is remove the N connectors and "properly" install PL-259's. The climbers= =20 >will now have less problems with installing the hardline and pig = tails.=20 >Overall you will have less chance of a miss-aligned N connector. Been=20 >there, done that. > >breck k4che > >----- Original Message -----=20 >From: "Bob Roehrig" > >| >| You haven't had connector problems until you have tried to get/keep a = VHF >| repeater on the air. >| ------------------------------ Message-ID: <1104.71.59.3.153.1174368223.squirrel@fracas.netboobie.org> Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 01:23:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: RF Condoms / was: PL-259 tip From: "Marty Reynolds' debris field" To: Old Tube Radios Cc: "Old Tube Radios" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit since this got borderline freudian, I just had to BUT ON 5KV Hi-Pot. 1kw in 50R is ~4.5A. Let's say Z = 50r +j1000x. Possible, but wud be ~20:1 swr. Shiver me timbers, there'd be ur 5kv! ------------------------------ Message-ID: <04c601c76ae2$920fca50$640fa8c0@radioroom> From: "Tom Rauch" To: Old Tube Radios Cc: "Old Tube radios" Subject: Re: Those coax connectors Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 07:26:06 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit So ya might wanna buddy up to a cable crew, or check the web for connection coverings.>> You can bring flowers to the cable guy, or order the tubing from McMaster Carr. 73 Tom ------------------------------ Message-ID: <25872956.1174412634607.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 09:43:54 -0800 (GMT-08:00) From: Richard Dillman To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Bending Antennas Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have need to bend a stainless steel whip antenna about 45 degrees so it will be vertical in a mobile installation. I've seen some that have been bent and those have a discolored area at the bend that seems to indicate heating. Does anyone have direct experience in doing this? Is heat really required? Thanks, RD ================================= Richard Dillman, W6AWO Maritime Radio Historical Society http://www.radiomarine.org Collector of Harleys, Willys and Radios over 100lbs. ================================= ------------------------------ End of BOATANCHORS Digest 4031 ******************************