20070718.ba v04_n070.bam.20070718 >From ???@??? Tue Jul 17 21:39:35 2007 -0500 Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 02:38:31 GMT From: Old Tube Radios To: Old Tube Radios Subject: BOATANCHORS digest 4070 Message-Id: <20070718023832.5D7CE47011E@srvr1.theporch.com> BOATANCHORS Digest 4070 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Oilite bushings by stuck in 50s 2) Re: Oilite bushings by Bob Roehrig 3) Re: Oilite bushings by AAFRadio 4) Re: Oilite bushings by wb3fau@att.net 5) Re: Oilite bushings by Richard Loken 6) RE: Oilite bushings by "Bill Hawkins" 7) Re: Oilite bushings by "Arden Allen" 8) Re: Oilite bushings by "Tom Smith" 9) Schematic sought for T-A/NF-105 tuning unit by Scott Robinson 10) Re: Battleship anchor question by "Morris Odell" 11) Re: Oilite bushings by "Marty Reynolds' debris field" 12) Type 860/VT-17 Tube Question by "Freeberg, Scott (STP)" 13) Need relay. by "Ken" 14) Re: Oilite bushings by "Arden Allen" 15) Re: Oilite bushings by WA5CAB@cs.com 16) Right angle banana plugs? by Charles 17) Re: Battleship anchor question by "Nick England" 18) Re: Right angle banana plugs? by "Sandy" 19) Re: Oilite bushings by AAFRadio 20) Re: Battleship anchor question by WA5CAB@cs.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 09:13:53 -0400 (EDT) From: stuck in 50s Message-Id: <200707161313.l6GDDrkm023712@fracas.netboobie.org> To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Oilite bushings Over time I've found "permanently lubed" phono, fan, tape recorder motors near-stuck with long dis-use. Example might be a TG-34 WW-2 code trainer last winter. Good cure seemed a shaft-sloshing in ATF. However hit on an Ampex consumer tape deck with a 4-pole GI capstan, et. al. motor that responded fast then, after a half-hour, began to slow then go to near-lock. Caught it in time & saved it fm burn-out. Another nearby guy hit on same with a Ampex 440 but he wasn't so lucky. Must be a better way than Marvel Mystery oil or ATF slosh. Seems like oil in pores harden, then trouble erupts. Thotta heating bushings w. big Weller, slosh, then quick reassemble then run. However I'd sure like hear ideas Marty ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 08:21:59 -0500 (CDT) From: Bob Roehrig To: Old Tube Radios Cc: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: Oilite bushings Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed On Mon, 16 Jul 2007, stuck in 50s wrote: > Seems like oil in pores harden, then trouble erupts. > > Thotta heating bushings w. big Weller, slosh, then quick reassemble > then run. However I'd sure like hear ideas I have occasional problems with the cooling fan for the compressor in my freezer. It says "lifetime lubricated" on the motor - yeah, right :-) Every few years it starts making noise so time to relube it. I disassemble it and pull out the armature. Then take kerosene or gasoline on a rag and run it thru the bushings a few times. Then I squirt good old 3 in 1 oil in the bushings and reassemble. It'll run again for 3-4 years. Bob Roehrig Aurora University Telecom dept. broehrig@aurora.edu K9EUI W9ZGP WD2XSH/19 630-844-4898 fax 630-844-4222 "Nostalgia is a thing of the past" ------------------------------ Message-ID: <469B8320.6010104@aafradio.org> Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 10:39:28 -0400 From: AAFRadio MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Old Tube Radios CC: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: Oilite bushings Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit stuck in 50s wrote: >However hit on an Ampex consumer tape deck with a 4-pole GI capstan, >et. al. motor that responded fast then, after a half-hour, began to >slow then go to near-lock. Caught it in time & saved it fm burn-out. >Another nearby guy hit on same with a Ampex 440 but he wasn't so lucky. >Must be a better way than Marvel Mystery oil or ATF slosh. >Seems like oil in pores harden, then trouble erupts. > > Sorta...the lighter lubrication components gradually evaporate over time, just as they do in grease. >Thotta heating bushings w. big Weller, slosh, then quick reassemble >then run. However I'd sure like hear ideas > Standard procedure after machining is to immerse the parts in a bath of oil at 80 degrees C for one hour. Use oil of the same grade as the initial impregnation (~MT 100). Let bearing cool down while immersed in the oil bath. Yes, I know this requires removal or at least detachment of anything that could be harmed by 80 degrees C. There ain't no free lunch... :-( 73, Mike ------------------------------ From: wb3fau@att.net To: Old Tube Radios Cc: stuck in 50s Subject: Re: Oilite bushings Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 15:55:45 +0000 Message-Id: <071620071555.19751.469B95010004863F00004D2721587667209A0E00CC0D99@att.net> I hate tell you to try WD-40, it will stirr up a crowd of non- believers. Tranny fluid or Marvel mystery oil are good choices. WD 40 will loosen things up, but not a perminent lube...Russ. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 10:09:35 -0700 From: Richard Loken Subject: Re: Oilite bushings To: Old Tube Radios Cc: Old Tube Radios Message-id: MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Mon, 16 Jul 2007, stuck in 50s wrote: > Over time I've found "permanently lubed" phono, fan, tape recorder > motors near-stuck with long dis-use. Example might be a TG-34 WW-2 > code trainer last winter. Good cure seemed a shaft-sloshing in ATF. ... > Another nearby guy hit on same with a Ampex 440 but he wasn't so lucky. ... The solution is to only associate with Ampex 350's. I and my contemporaries were never sure we approved of the Ampex 440 - they seems to lack that RBA battleship construction that we knew from the 350's and we fixed them more often just to prove our theory. A new image fills my mind. Restarting a 15hp 3 phase motor after a couple decades of idleness. -- Richard Loken VE6BSV, Systems Programmer - VMS : "Anybody can be a father Athabasca University : but you have to earn Athabasca, Alberta Canada : the title of 'daddy'" ** richardlo@admin.athabascau.ca ** : - Lynn Johnston ------------------------------ From: "Bill Hawkins" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: RE: Oilite bushings Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 15:37:51 -0500 Message-ID: <002301c7c7e9$2e52bc70$021ba8c0@cyrus> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Marty, Your best bet is to buy new bushings, perhaps at McMaster-Carr. Dunno about Oilite, but sintered bronze bearings are sintered (glues the bits of bronze together, leaves spaces), cooled and impregnated with clean oil in a vacuum tank (takes all the air out of the spaces). There's no way to restore an old bearing that's gummed up, but you can use it as a conventional bronze bearing by keeping oil between the bronze and the steel, after cleaning out the surface gunk. The bearing is bronze because the steel shaft will be in contact with it when it isn't turning. When the motor starts, the shaft breaks away from the bronze and spins in a film of oil. If gravity allows, you could drill a small hole through the bearing and its holder, and fill the hole with oil after the shaft is back in the bearing. Best to remove drill burrs from the shaft side of the bearing. Seems like heat and slosh makes the oil in the bearing gunkier. Regards, Bill Hawkins ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003901c7c7ec$f5edf350$14a1480c@KB6NAX> From: "Arden Allen" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: Oilite bushings Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 13:53:55 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The one good idea here is soaking the motor bushing plates in warm oil. Lubricants to avoid are those that are good at loosening things up but have very short staying power such as WD-40 (no, I'm not a recovering gummy bear!). Most folks in my experience don't realize that oilite bushings are usually surrounded by an absorbant material resevoir that supplies oil to the bushing. Lubrication is lost as oil seeps out between the shaft and bushing and dissipates by evaporation and being sloughed off by centrifugal force. Short of tearing the motor down one should find the resevoir filling ports (some motors don't have any) and instill oil until it appears the aborbant material won't draw in any more oil. Then oil the shaft at the bushings and allow to soak until the motor begins to free up. Don't run the motor until it will turn reasonably freely by hand. Some motors will take a day or two to loosen up. The problem with using solvents to free up motors is the uncertainty that all of the solvent has been replaced with oil and that's why I avoid that approach; if the lubricant is too thin to provide sufficient isolation of the shaft from the bushing scoring of both may eventually occur. Periodic relubrication of oilite bushing motors will keep them running indefinitely as evidenced by my old faithful summer time fans, three of which meet the BA requirement of being over 50 years old. Arden Allen KB6NAX ------------------------------ From: "Tom Smith" Subject: Re: Oilite bushings To: Old Tube Radios Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 17:43:14 -0500 Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit It's a shame you don't have access to one of our oil industry core analysis labs. Cores with extremely small pore spaces and permeability are routinely evacuated with solvents and heat to remove any hydrocarbon residue and then a volume of mercury is reinjected to determine the porosity and other attributes of the reservoir rocks. This is done with porosities (and I suspect permeabilities) far less than than the bronze bearings and the pore space filling material can be closer to carbon than oil and the process still works. It would be interesting to see what a bearing would do if you removed all the oil residue and then reinjected a modern lubricant. Tom N5AMA On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 13:53:55 -0700 "Arden Allen" wrote: > The one good idea here is soaking the motor bushing plates in warm >oil. > Lubricants to avoid are those that are good at loosening things up >but have > very short staying power such as WD-40 (no, I'm not a recovering >gummy > bear!). Most folks in my experience don't realize that oilite >bushings are > usually surrounded by an absorbant material resevoir that supplies >oil to > the bushing. Lubrication is lost as oil seeps out between the shaft >and > bushing and dissipates by evaporation and being sloughed off by >centrifugal > force. Short of tearing the motor down one should find the resevoir >filling > ports (some motors don't have any) and instill oil until it appears >the > aborbant material won't draw in any more oil. Then oil the shaft at >the > bushings and allow to soak until the motor begins to free up. Don't >run the > motor until it will turn reasonably freely by hand. Some motors >will take a > day or two to loosen up. The problem with using solvents to free up >motors > is the uncertainty that all of the solvent has been replaced with >oil and > that's why I avoid that approach; if the lubricant is too thin to >provide > sufficient isolation of the shaft from the bushing scoring of both >may > eventually occur. Periodic relubrication of oilite bushing motors >will keep > them running indefinitely as evidenced by my old faithful summer >time fans, > three of which meet the BA requirement of being over 50 years old. > > Arden Allen > KB6NAX > ------------------------------ Mime-Version: 1.0 Message-Id: Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2007 23:48:05 -0700 To: Old Tube Radios From: Scott Robinson Subject: Schematic sought for T-A/NF-105 tuning unit Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Folks, The title tells the tale. Does anyone have said schematic or other data? Note that this is not a transmitter output matching network. It's the front end of a 0.5-30 MHz receiver. Thanks in advance, Scott ------------------------------ Message-ID: <002101c7c853$65c4de30$ad00a8c0@Morris1> From: "Morris Odell" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: Battleship anchor question Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 19:18:11 +1000 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, Thanks to everyone who replied about the FRR59A/WRR2A. I do have one of these amazing receivers, and what's more I got it virtually NOS!! How that happened is a long story but suffice it to say the receiver is spotless and has had virtually no use at all. The fellow I got it from still has the original packing case. I have it mounted in a solid rack so there's no problem sliding out either deck and tilting the various sub-decks. The receiver came with the original accessories including the manual and indispensible extender cable for running the RF deck out of its housing. I don't know how anyone could even begin to think about servicing it without one of those. It would be virtually impossible to make one. I thought there was an alignment problem last week when the 100 KHz tuning indication looked abnormal, but it turned out to be a loose connection (I think) as it came good after some reseating various plugs. The alignment procedure doesn't look that hard actually, just tedious. No special gear is involved other than two signal generators, a bunch of multimeters and VTVMs, a simple scope and patch cables. The internal connectors are the mini-BNC like in the R390A and fortunately I have a few to make up some test cables. The tip given on the tiscalinet web page for oscillator alignment looks quite worthwhile considering the sort of modern test gear many of us have. Mine is mounted in the same rack as a super dooper HP 524B counter so I really don't have to worry about lissajous figures or other antique frequency measuring methods :-) It's a great performer but there are a few drawbacks IMHO when using it in these modern times: 1. It's certainly no band cruiser. It was designed for "...tune to 27.8539 MHz and leave it there..." type of operation. Resettability and stability are exceptional but tuning around is a chore, like the R390A. 2. The separate 600 ohm 60 mW audio outputs for USB and LSB are a pain. The power output is surprisingly adequate when matched properly but switching between the two requires a switch/load box to be built. I can see why it's there, but ISB is not called for much these days:-) 3. The fixed SSB bandwidth is too wide for modern conditions. While the AM/CW mode has flawless switchable filters down to 350 Hz, you can't do that on SSB. I feed mine into an external DSP which is some help. 4. After building such an amazing receiver it was rather stingy of the manufacturer not to provide mains voltage tappings for anything other than 110-120 volts. At least it handles 50 Hz. Fortunately transformers for running US equipment are not rare down here. The only other bit of gear I have with no 240V tap is a Heathkit capacitor tester. I'm sure the cost pressures of producing that were very different to the WRR2A!!! 5. Mine doesn't work until the crystal oven warms up, which takes about 15 minutes. During that time it's OK with an external standard frequency connected to the appropriate connector on the back. I'm not sure if this is normal and would like to hear from anyone else about their experience. 73 to all from freezing cold dark wet Melbourne, Morris ------------------------------ Message-ID: <3818.66.56.28.127.1184671146.squirrel@fracas.netboobie.org> Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 07:19:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Oilite bushings From: "Marty Reynolds' debris field" To: Old Tube Radios MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Sure thank the community for piling on I'm gratified as heck that I gessed right on heating then lube immersion to restore a bushing (aafradio). Prior immersion in Hg to get pore size (n5ama) seems excessive since I'd probably have to sacrifice some 872s. & then not know what I'd divined & gumbear, we've a 20s mini Dayton brass-blade fan w. little oil cups. You know they need attn. when, every decade or so, it becomes a slow starter. These 1750rpm motor (motah in Ga) bushings are semi-spherical self-aligning bushings & MIGHT be bronze rather than oilite. Looks like only option will be heat/lube & test Will letch y'all know. Right now I'm gonna check my bionic oil cups. & tnx again Marty ------------------------------ Content-class: urn:content-classes:message MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Subject: Type 860/VT-17 Tube Question Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 10:42:56 -0500 Message-ID: <159D9606C7F1304C8059DAEB6B2ED8BE01BBE9CA@STPEVS01.ad.guidant.com> From: "Freeberg, Scott (STP)" To: Old Tube Radios Last year I bought a 1930's transmitter out of an estate in Milwaukee = Wi. The picture showed a beautiful 30's wood transmitter about 4' wide. = When it arrived, I realized it was a reproduction. No problem. No = tubes either. I was just looking at it Sunday night. It's a 3 tube job. Luckily the = builder put some typewritten labels on the transmitter with some tube = info. Uses an unknown 4 pin triode for the crystal controlled = oscillator, a 210 buffer, and something called an 860/VT-17 PA. Next to = the PA socket is a tall tower. I couldn't imagine what the tower was = for until I saw a picture of an 860 online. Holy moly, what a monster. = There's a label on the transmitter, behind the PA socket, talking about = 3 KV.. Yikes! Has anyone here actually used an 860 before? It's a monster tube, globe = with the plate connection wires coming out of the top, to attach to the = tower, a proturberance coming out of the side, again with wires coming = out. It's impressive. I wonder if I can run this at 10 watt input for = the AWA 1929 QSO Party :>>>> 73, Scott WA9WFA ------------------------------ Message-ID: <000101c7c8a2$799c6be0$6b9c1f45@rtconline.com> From: "Ken" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Need relay. Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 11:43:33 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Gang, I am in need of a small dpdt relay that will follow 50WPM cw and will really dance with 12V. DC on it. Anyone have such an item? Please respond direct to my email address. Ken N5CM -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 212 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len ------------------------------ Message-ID: <001701c7c8a8$82a06880$569f480c@KB6NAX> From: "Arden Allen" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: Oilite bushings Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 12:17:21 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > ....These 1750rpm motor (motah in Ga) bushings are semi-spherical self-aligning > bushings & MIGHT be bronze rather than oilite. ..... Half a baker's dozen and coffee, or sumpin' like that. Oilite bushings are made of bronze particles compressed into shape. Looks like metal with BA vintage eyes but magnification will tell all.... Arden Allen KB6NAX ------------------------------ From: WA5CAB@cs.com Message-ID: Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 16:28:37 EDT Subject: Re: Oilite bushings To: Old Tube Radios MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_ca0.163381f3.33ce8075_boundary" --part1_ca0.163381f3.33ce8075_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I haven't done any recent research to confirm it but I think "Oilite" or "oilite" is one of the names or trademarks that over decades passed into the vernacular as a generic term. Like Bristol (wrench), Appleton (connector) and many others. In a message dated 7/17/2007 2:28:50 PM Central Daylight Time, gumbear@pacbell.net writes: > >....These 1750rpm motor (motah in Ga) bushings are semi-spherical > self-aligning > >bushings &MIGHT be bronze rather than oilite. ..... > > Half a baker's dozen and coffee, or sumpin' like that. Oilite bushings are > made of bronze particles compressed into shape. Looks like metal with BA > vintage eyes but magnification will tell all.... > Robert Downs - Houston (Web Store) MVPA 9480 (Primary email) (Backup email) --part1_ca0.163381f3.33ce8075_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- * * This post contains a forbidden message format * * (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) * * Mail Lists at theporch.com only accept PLAIN TEXT * * If your postings display this message your mail program * * is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * --part1_ca0.163381f3.33ce8075_boundary-- ------------------------------ From: Charles To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Right angle banana plugs? Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 19:39:00 -0500 Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The test leads on my Triplett 666-R VOM (that I bought new in 1982) have finally failed - in particular, the wire insulation where it enters the molded right-angle banana plugs. Triplett's catalog doesn't show this test lead set any more. They only sell those stupid "safety shielded" plugs. (I've always found the safest thing is to not put one's finger against exposed terminals, or hold the meter while measuring, but that's another subject). They do have straight banana plugs, oddly enough, but since the jacks are at the top on a 666-R it's harder to keep the leads away from the meter face and Murphy insures that they always drape across the front. Since the wire and the prods are intact, I'd like to just replace the right angle banana plugs. A long time ago there was a replacement-type plug, probably intended for just this application, that had a tiny screw holding the two halves together. Does anyone know where I can find a pair? -Charles WB3JOK/0 ------------------------------ Message-ID: <003001c7c8d7$184271c0$6401a8c0@cs.unc.edu> From: "Nick England" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: Battleship anchor question Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 21:00:54 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Having recently acquired a couple of these monsters myself, I am curious if anyone has info on the difference between the A models (WRR-2A/FRR-59A) and the B models (WRR-2B/FRR-59B). Evidently the B models were manufactured by Arvin rather than National. Anything else? I have both non-A and A manuals so am reasonably clear about them. (well as clear as anyone staring at a schematic with two intertwined Wadley loops could possibly be) 73 & Have Fun, Nick KD4CPL --------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Morris Odell" Subject: Re: Battleship anchor question > > Thanks to everyone who replied about the FRR59A/WRR2A. ...... > Morris ------------------------------ Message-ID: <002501c7c8da$ee7fb100$a5d0be42@gateway> From: "Sandy" To: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: Right angle banana plugs? Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 20:28:22 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check out Allied Radio Corp. I think they have an online catalog. Look for Pomona banana plugs. They make a right angle "stackable" plug that is a very good one. Red and black. They assemble with a set screw that holds the wire in. Very protected against breaking from flexing. If you can't find the numbers, let me know and I'll research what I have here....just don't have it at hand at this instant. 73, Sandy W5TVW ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charles" To: "Old Tube Radios" Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 7:39 PM Subject: Right angle banana plugs? The test leads on my Triplett 666-R VOM (that I bought new in 1982) have finally failed - in particular, the wire insulation where it enters the molded right-angle banana plugs. Triplett's catalog doesn't show this test lead set any more. They only sell those stupid "safety shielded" plugs. (I've always found the safest thing is to not put one's finger against exposed terminals, or hold the meter while measuring, but that's another subject). They do have straight banana plugs, oddly enough, but since the jacks are at the top on a 666-R it's harder to keep the leads away from the meter face and Murphy insures that they always drape across the front. Since the wire and the prods are intact, I'd like to just replace the right angle banana plugs. A long time ago there was a replacement-type plug, probably intended for just this application, that had a tiny screw holding the two halves together. Does anyone know where I can find a pair? -Charles WB3JOK/0 -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.6/902 - Release Date: 7/15/2007 2:21 PM ------------------------------ Message-ID: <469D6D28.10505@aafradio.org> Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 21:30:16 -0400 From: AAFRadio MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Old Tube Radios CC: Old Tube Radios Subject: Re: Oilite bushings Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorta both - lots of sintered bronze bearings on the market today, many of them described as "oilite style". Oilite itself appears to have transformed itself from the original 1930's Chrysler Amplex Division roots to a European company based in the UK - http://www.oilitebearings.com/ More at http://www.lm-tarbell.com/history_of_oil_impregnated_bronze.htm 73, Mike WA5CAB@cs.com wrote: >I haven't done any recent research to confirm it but I think "Oilite" or >"oilite" is one of the names or trademarks that over decades passed into the >vernacular as a generic term. Like Bristol (wrench), Appleton (connector) and many >others. > >In a message dated 7/17/2007 2:28:50 PM Central Daylight Time, >gumbear@pacbell.net writes: >> >....These 1750rpm motor (motah in Ga) bushings are semi-spherical >> self-aligning >> >bushings &MIGHT be bronze rather than oilite. ..... >> >> Half a baker's dozen and coffee, or sumpin' like that. Oilite bushings are >> made of bronze particles compressed into shape. Looks like metal with BA >> vintage eyes but magnification will tell all.... > ------------------------------ From: WA5CAB@cs.com Message-ID: Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 22:37:24 EDT Subject: Re: Battleship anchor question To: Old Tube Radios MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_c8e.13941742.33ced6e4_boundary" --part1_c8e.13941742.33ced6e4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Nick, Differences are minor, other than different contractor. A couple of capacitor values changed and some resistors added. If as you indicate you have NAVSHIPS 94715 I can print and send you the new front cover and the pages of Temporary Change T-1 through T-6 for a nominal charge. T-3 changes the manual to cover the B models and changes the manual number to 0967-137-3010. The other Changes correct various errors in the original manual. In a message dated 7/17/2007 8:01:48 PM Central Daylight Time, nick@3rdtech.com writes: > Having recently acquired a couple of these monsters myself, I am curious if > anyone has info on the difference between the A models (WRR-2A/FRR-59A) and > the B models (WRR-2B/FRR-59B). Evidently the B models were manufactured by > Arvin rather than National. Anything else? > > I have both non-A and A manuals so am reasonably clear about them. > (well as clear as anyone staring at a schematic with two intertwined Wadley > loops could possibly be) > > 73 &Have Fun, > Nick KD4CPL Robert & Susan Downs - Houston (Web Store) MVPA 9480 (Primary email) (Backup email) --part1_c8e.13941742.33ced6e4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- * * This post contains a forbidden message format * * (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) * * Mail Lists at theporch.com only accept PLAIN TEXT * * If your postings display this message your mail program * * is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * --part1_c8e.13941742.33ced6e4_boundary-- ------------------------------ End of BOATANCHORS Digest 4070 ******************************