Daily GLOWBUGS
Digest: V1 #26
via AB4EL Web Digests @ SunSITE
Purpose: building and operating vacuum tube-based QRP rigs
Subject: glowbugs V1 #26
glowbugs Thursday, May 8 1997 Volume 01 : Number 026
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 09:44:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: EWoodman@aol.com
Subject: Regen Manuals, etc.
Bob,
I downloaded the regen manual postscript files. Lots of good stuff there!
Quick question...................do you ever use any type of variable
coupling between the antenna and grid coils? About 30 yrs.ago I built a
variometer for a crystal radio. Don't recall as it worked very well (I was
only 14 at the time) but I might be able to build a better one now but don't
know how mechanically stable I could make it with what I have available. Is
it worth using one?
Eric
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 16:01:57 +0200
From: Jan Axing <janax@li.icl.se>
Subject: Re: Svetlana Glowbugging Power Triodes
rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.edu wrote:
> This would be ideal for a single 4-pin socket style rig that you
> could interchangeably swap a 10 watt or a 50watt bottle, by merely
> changing the tube. Alas, the prices are a tad steep, but not too
> much out of hand for the diehards --- 30 bucks and 57 bucks respectively.
Oh, dear. I think our local dealer here in Sweden just lost a
customer...
They list SV811-10 for $53 and SV572-10 for $98. OTOH the buck has
gained
some 19% in value lately.
Anyway, it's good tubes with long life but as usual with tungsten
filaments,
keep the filament voltage within the limits. In a Hartley design they
will
live forever.
73
- --
Jan, SM5GNN
Linkoeping, Sweden
janax@algonet.se
janax@li.icl.se
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 10:17:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: Regen Manuals, etc.
>
> Bob,
> I downloaded the regen manual postscript files. Lots of good stuff there!
> Quick question...................do you ever use any type of variable
> coupling between the antenna and grid coils? About 30 yrs.ago I built a
> variometer for a crystal radio. Don't recall as it worked very well (I was
> only 14 at the time) but I might be able to build a better one now but don't
> know how mechanically stable I could make it with what I have available. Is
> it worth using one?
>
> Eric
>
I don't usually use variometers for adjustable primary to secondary
coupling. I do try to use variometers when I can get them for ticklers,
since I feel the tickler adjustment is more valuable than the antenna
coupling. What I try to do is to set the antenna coupling to what
experience has taught me would be appropriate. Ideally, the antenna
coupling should be adjustable in some way to optimize the maximum
detector input. But, since a regen detector is so sensitive, I usually
err on the lesser side and stick with my tried and tested 1 turn link
or 1pf input capacitance. On the average ham antenna, that works
quite satisfactorily in my hands, for the ham bands. In the olden days,
especially at lower frequencies (LF/MF) variable antenna coupling was
quite desirable on xtal tuners and broadcast sets. But, if you read
the manuals carefully, they usually say to us minimum coupling with
the oscillating detector. Thus, practically, there is no real need
for variable coupling. Almost anything over a 1 turn link or 1pf is
too much. If I were to make a variable link coupling, I would opt for
a 2 turn link max and some way of adjusting the spacing between the
link and the secondary coil so that a spacing of anywhere from about
1/2 inch to about 2 inches could be had. For variable capacitance
coupling, I would use a single plate capacitor of the mini type used
as trimmers and no more.
It is perhaps more important than having an adjustable coupling to use
minimal coupling and TUNE THE PRIMARY CIRCUIT to proper resonance.
That is the way it should be done. If you read the early ham literature,
you will often find that the coupling is relatively close (3-5 turns),
and an aperiodic primary circuit is used. If you use such an input AND
tune the antena (as you should for best operation anyway with the transmitter)
you will usually find that the detector overloads and ``pulls'' or has the
so-called ``dead spots''. That is a sure giveaway of greatly overcoupled
circuits in a regenerator.
For best operation:
1. Tune the primary circuit to resonance.
2. Use minimum coupling (any method works fine).
3. Keep the detector on the ragged edge of oscillation.
Note that if the detector will not operate on the edge of oscillation
easily, or pulls, or has dead spots, or the classic double-click of
over-critical-coupling, you are way overcoupled, and need to loosen
the coupling, whatever method you use.
Good Luck
73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 11:25:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: Svetlana Glowbugging Power Triodes
>
> rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.edu wrote:
>
> > This would be ideal for a single 4-pin socket style rig that you
> > could interchangeably swap a 10 watt or a 50watt bottle, by merely
> > changing the tube. Alas, the prices are a tad steep, but not too
> > much out of hand for the diehards --- 30 bucks and 57 bucks respectively.
>
> Oh, dear. I think our local dealer here in Sweden just lost a
> customer...
> They list SV811-10 for $53 and SV572-10 for $98. OTOH the buck has
> gained
> some 19% in value lately.
Oh, well, you need to remember that those are probably recommend
or suggested retail pricings (I don't think I made a misteak looking
on the price list, but I will double check or if someone else has it
handy, do check --- thanks).
> Anyway, it's good tubes with long life but as usual with tungsten
> filaments,
> keep the filament voltage within the limits. In a Hartley design they
> will
> live forever.
Yes, that is true. Their ratings cover 5.6-6.9 volts with 6.3 as
nominal, if I read their tables correctly. That would suggest that
a 6 volt battery would do nicely, on a Hartley. Hartleys are usually
run no more that 30% loaded up, so should be well under the allowable
plate dissipations (unless ye runs yer Hartleys to the wall).
I like the idea of using the small 4 pin socket, even for the 125 watter
tube. As long as that does not push the circulating RF currents that
may be had, it should work fine. There was one US tube (814 I think)
that was done the same way, but it is not too common.
> 73
> Jan, SM5GNN
73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 11:48:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: JOHN SEHRING <JOHN_SEHRING.parti@ecunet.org>
Subject: LINGUA CW-ITIS
To: glowbugs@www.atl.org
Ahoy NA4G/Bob!
Oh, I just luv ur axent! What's that lingo called, matey? Can ye patent
it?
What da we calls it--
Glowbonics? Thermiobonics? CWbonics? BAbonics? Bob-bonics? NA4Gbonics?
Har-Har-bonics? CWistbonics?
-John Sehring (Tue, May 6, 1997 3:15 pm MT @Baker, Montana) UCC WB2EQG
-John Sehring (Tue, May 6, 1997 3:23 pm MT @Baker, Montana) UCC WB2EQG
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 12:17:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.edu
Subject: Looking for early regen article --- a good xerox is fine
I was looking for an early regen article to add to our collection
on-line, and found I was missing half the article (QST ran it over
several issues). I have the first half but need a clean xerox of
the second half, enlarged to fit an 8-1/2 x 11 page with about a half
to 1 inch of margin all around (so I can properly scan the images of
the receivers).
The first part of the article (which I have) is:
Horle, L.C.F., 1920, ``Navy Receiving Equipment'', QST, June,
1920, pages 12,13,14,17.
The second part of the article must have appeared in the July, August,
October, or November issues, which are missing from my QST collection.
If anyone has the second half of the above article, and can make me
a xerox of it, slightly enlarged so the photos will scan easily, I
would be most appreciative, and will add it to our on-line historical
regenerative receiver articles and manuals. We have manuals to some
of these already on-line, for your scholarly enjoyment.
Thanks!
73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP
p.s. There are some neat articles on early CW sets there, as opposed
to spark sets. 1AW's station is featured. T.O.M. is off on one
of his tirades and epistles on ``Rotten Damped Spark Stuff''.
These issues are must reading, for Glowbugs!
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 12:27:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: Glowbonics, etc.....(:+}}.....
>
> To: rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.edu
>
> Ahoy NA4G/Bob!
>
> Oh, I just luv ur axent! What's that lingo called, matey? Can ye patent
> it?
Well, blows me timbers down, fer sures,..... ifs me cuds mebbees gits
a patent fer it, or makes it be of da standard issue, that be fine bye
me, ta all intents an' purposes.....(:+}}.
> What da we calls it--
>
> Glowbonics? Thermiobonics? BAbonics? Bob-bonics? NA4Gbonics?
> Har-Har-bonics? CWistbonics?
Gee.... dunno, as long as it ain't Ebonics....... I kinda like that thar
Glowbonics moniker fer da lingo, since me heart an me timbers be partials
ta da Glowwebugge crewe.....
> -John Sehring (Tue, May 6, 1997 3:15 pm MT @Baker, Montana) UCC WB2EQG
As long as there be a few folks wats gets some chuckles therefrom bye its
usage, that be fine bye me!
Aye, thar matey! Battens ye down da hatches, lashes ye tight yer leadin's,
grapples ye up yer tin cans atops yer noggins, fires ye up yer glowbottles,
an' a'readys ye up yer keys at the fore.......
(whew!)
73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 12:26:01 -0500
From: randy_ott@juno.com (Charles R Ott)
Subject: Re: Yet another 6T9 alternative
On Tue, 6 May 1997 19:00:37 -0400 (EDT) EricNess@aol.com writes:
>Yet another alternative to the 6T9 is the 6GW8/ECL86 of Orphan
>Glowbug/Mighty Midget fame. The plate dissapation of the pentode
>section
>is rated at 9 Watts. There are two specs for plate voltage however.
>The
>"Plate Supply Voltage" is rated at 550 Volts max but the "Plate
>Voltage"
>is only rated at 300 Volts. Could someone explain the difference
>between
>the two specs?
>
>73, Eric WD6DGX
>
>
>
Plate supply voltage is what appears on the other side of the plate
resistor, and also on the plate when the tube is not drawing any current.
(AKA B+ maybe?) This could be the positive peak voltage on the plate in
a resistive coupled amplifier.
Plate voltage is what appears on the plate itself taking into account the
voltage drop through any resistor on the plate. This is usally the
average DC plate voltage.
- -------------------------------------
Charles R. (Randy) Ott
K5HJ - QRP-L #1040
- -------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 15:07:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re: Looking for early regen article --- a good xerox is fine
>
> Bob,
> Me again
> A friend asked,... Why does the gain of a tube not matter in a regen?
> This always puzzled him.
> Peter
>
It matters a little, but not an awful lot. What you do in the regen is to
recycle the in phase signal to build it up. This recycling of the signal
from plate to grid and back again, pushes the signal in voltage to what the
tube can't handle, anyway, and it begins to oscillate. Given a low
or high mu tube, there are theoretical differences at what voltage that
will occur. In practical regenerative detector circuits, I have not found
any major differences between hi/low mu tubes....... except, that lower
mu tubes are usually more stable to run compared to higher mu tubes.
For example, the 6J5 makes a much more stable detector, as does a '30,
compared to a 12AT7 which is very microphonic, very touchy, and hard
to make really smooth on the edge of oscillation. Conversely, in the
identical receiver (using tube base adapters to swap tubes), the 12AT7
is roughly 1-2 times as sensitive or as ``gainful'' as the others.
Practically, that is nothing. The additional gain will get you nothing
at the noise floor, because the band noise is usually more than that.
It can make some difference in a single stage detector-only regenerative
receiver, but not a great deal. In practical terms, I will place more
emphasis on the smoothness of transition into oscillation, and let the
audio stages pick up that 1-2 x gain. Remember, that 3db gain is only
just barely audible.
One problem with overly gainful tubes in regens is that they tend to
amplify the noise, too, so there are points beyond which you cannot
easily go, because the band noise gets recycled too. Under perfect
ideal quiet band conditions, the higher mu tube will be a more sensitive
detector, but those conditions are usually quite rare, in which it will
practically make that much difference.
I get better results using a properly coupled stable tube in a regenerative
detector than a very hot tube which is easily overcoupled and difficult to
control, at best.
There have been a number of cheap regen receivers that have used the basic
12AT7 kind of detector and one-step audio. Most of them are not easy to
control, but are generally fairly hot receivers under ideal conditions.
The problem is conditions are not usually ideal.
Me, I prefer the smoothness of a lowly 6J5 or such (the 6AB4 and its
brothers might be usable, but I have not tried them, yet), and a very
easy to control receiver.
Caveat, your mileage may vary.
I will let others fill in the theoretical.
73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 14:08:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: tomrice@netcom.com (Tom R. Rice)
Subject: Re: Glowbonics, etc
> >
> > Oh, I just luv ur axent! What's that lingo called, matey? Can ye patent
> > it?
I think the patent has been issued. Check out a
flick named "Long John Silver" (1954) wherein a guy
named Robert Newton talks like that, and mugs a
bit, as well.
I doubt that he's on CW, though ;-)
73 de WB6BYH
"It's lots of fun having fun, even if you don't enjoy it!"
-- Gracie Allen
- --
"Start off every day with a smile and get it over with." --W.C.Fields
Tom R. Rice
tomrice@netcom.com
CIS: 71160,1122
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 17:52:19 +0000
From: "Brian Carling (Radio G3XLQ / AF4K)" <bry@mnsinc.com>
Subject: Re: A $3.99 power transformer
On 5 May 97 at 22:38, Ken Gordon spoke about Re: A $3.99 power
transformer and said:
> How about the 6BM8-SVET, hi-mu triode, 7 watt power pentode in a 9
> pin, made by Svetlana at $9.00 ? Or the 6HF8 ?
>
> Specs, anyone ?
>
> Ken W7EKB
Yes, 6BM8 (or better still 6GW8) tubes are available. You should not
have to pay $9 for them. You can get 2E26s for that!
I see these tubes typically $2-5 each at hamfests. I buy the $2.00
ones and leave the $4-5 ones for the wealthy guys, he he!
I think you can buy NEW ones mail order for around $4-6.00 each.
********************************************************
*** 73 from Radio AF4K / G3XLQ in Gaithersburg, MD USA *
** E-mail to: bry@mnsinc.com *
*** See the great ham radio resources at: *
** http://www.mnsinc.com/bry/ *
********************************************************
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 17:52:20 +0000
From: "Brian Carling (Radio G3XLQ / AF4K)" <bry@mnsinc.com>
Subject: Re:
Sorry I missed this. I was out late.
Did you get anyone?
On 6 May 97 at 12:06, rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.e spoke about and
said:
>
> > Say guys I am curious... has everyone quit using 3579 kHz
> > for Glowbugging activity these days?
> >
> > I was on all evening yesterday and couldn't raise anyone.
> >
> > I called CQ with the trusty Eldico TR75 rig (1625 final)
> > for hours!
> >
> > Of course the RTTY QRM didn't help.
> >
> > 73 & TTYL - Bry, AF4K
>
> Well, I will fire up Big Bertha Radiomarine on 3579 tonight,
> maybe around 10pm EST +- whenever I get the kid to bed.
>
> Then after that over to 7050.
>
> DE NA4G/Bob UP
>
>
>
********************************************************
*** 73 from Radio AF4K / G3XLQ in Gaithersburg, MD USA *
** E-mail to: bry@mnsinc.com *
*** See the great ham radio resources at: *
** http://www.mnsinc.com/bry/ *
********************************************************
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 17:52:21 +0000
From: "Brian Carling (Radio G3XLQ / AF4K)" <bry@mnsinc.com>
Subject: Re: Globugs Archives On-Line (anyone want to add to it?)
On 6 May 97 at 14:04, rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.e spoke about
Globugs Archives On-Line (anyone wa and said:
> Through the good graces of Ken Gordon, the Glowbugs archives are now
> on-line (at least all I have in my collection, less a few things I
> need to dig out, still). ALL of the digests are there.
WHERE is "there?"
********************************************************
*** 73 from Radio AF4K / G3XLQ in Gaithersburg, MD USA *
** E-mail to: bry@mnsinc.com *
*** See the great ham radio resources at: *
** http://www.mnsinc.com/bry/ *
********************************************************
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 15:55:48 -0700
From: dfrancis@iex.net (Dexter Francis)
Subject: Brit/Euro Tube Designation Codes
I culled the following out of Babani's "Handbook of Radio, TV, Industrial &
Transmitting Tube and Valve Equivalents." It may be of use in establishing
the identity of some of those rare European types we occasionally run
across. (Ben should love this...)
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----------------------
Type Designation Codes for Radio and Television Receiving tubes:
First letter indicates the filament Voltage or current:
D - Less than or Equal to 1.4V Series or Parallel Supply
E - 6.3V Series or Parallel Supply
G - Misc Series or Parallel Supply
L - 450 ma.; Series Supply
P - 300 ma.; Series Supply
U - 100 ma.; Series Supply
Some used the letters A (4V), B (180 ma.), C (200 ma.), F (12.6V), K (2V)
and Y (50 ma.) but this practise was discontinued prior to 1974.
The second and subsequent letters indicate the construction:
A - Diode
B - Double Diode w/common cathode, except rectifiers
C - Triode, except power output tubes
D - Power Output Triode
E - Tetrode, except power output tetrodes
F - Pentode, except power output pentodes'
H - Hexode or Heptodes of the hexode type
K - Octode or Heptode of the octode type
L - Power output tetrode or pentode
M - Tuning indicator
Y - Half Wave Rectifier
Z - Full Wave Rectifier
The Serial number consists of three figures, the first indicating the base type:
1 - Miscellaneous
2 - Miniature 10 pin
3 - Octal
5 - Magnoval
8 - Noval
9 - Miniature 7 pin
The last figure of tetrodes and pentodes, except on power output tubes,
indicates the type of
characteristic; even figure: Sharp cutoff, odd figure: variable mu.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----------------------
ECC tube types are designated as follows:
The first letter indicates the filament Voltage:
E - 6.3 Volt Parallel or series supply
The Second and subsequent letters indicate the construction and application
of the tube:
A - Diode
C - Triode, excluding power output triodes
D - Power Output Triode
E - Tetrode, excluding power output tetrodes
F - Pentode, excluding power output pentodes
H - Heptode
L - Power Output Tetrode or Pentode
M - Tuning Indicator
The series numbers for ECC types are the same as indicated for the standard
types listed above, with the exception that ECC Series numbers end in zero
for prototypes and varients in numbers 1 thru 9.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------------------------
Professional tube types are indicated as follows:
The first letter indicates the category:
X - Photosensitive types
Y - Vacuum type Transmitting, microwave and industrial types
Z - Gas filled tubes, except photosensitive types
The Second letter indicates the construction/application:
A - Diode
C - Trigger
D - Triodes and Double Triodes
G - Miscellaneous
H - Travelling wave
J - Magnetron
K - Klystron
L - Tetrodes and Pentodes, single or double
M - Cold Cathode indicator or counter
P - Photomultipier
Q - Camera
T - Thyratron
X - Ignitronm image intensifier or converter
Y - Rectifier
Z - Voltage Multiplier
The Serial number consists of four figures. Prototypes end in zero.
Varients from 1 to 4.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----------------------
Happy hunting! (Yoikes and away!)
- -df
* CWest Tube Sales - P.O.B. 22443 SLC, UT 84103 *
* http://www.usa.net/~dfrancis/CWest_Tube_Sales.html *
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 18:11:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: leeboo@ct.net (Leon Wiltsey)
Subject: FS SX101
Hi Gang
I got a used hallicrafters sx101 several months ago.
Figured on using it as my primary station rec.
However it needs a good alignment and I do not
have the necessary test equipment to do same.
It works ok but sens is down. looks are 8
all knobs are there and cab is in fair shape. no
big dents or large scratches. The only thing it would
need is a replacement dial plate glass( 3 1/2" by 11 " ordinary glass.)
It also comes with the manual and the schematic.
I need $130.00 plus shipping. pse email for more info
or call 941 471 3739
Thank the good LORD for all that you have!!!
Leon B Wiltsey jr. (Lee)
4600 Lake Haven blvd...
Sebring fl 33872.............
68yr old retired semi disabled senior
(stroke got my balance and hand to eye coordination)
formerly w4kcj & kp4ryb ( till I quite) dumb dumb
NOW KF4RCL MUCH HAPPINESS
play keyboard and sing
music 1920's to 60'
none of the 80'S- 90'S noise
Date: Wed, 7 May 1997 18:05:47 +0000
From: "Brian Carling (Radio G3XLQ / AF4K)" <bry@mnsinc.com>
Subject: Re: Glowbonics, etc.....(:+}}.....
On 7 May 97 at 12:27, rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.e spoke about Re:
Glowbonics, etc.....(:+}}..... and said:
> >
> > To: rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.edu
> >
> > Ahoy NA4G/Bob!
> >
> > Oh, I just luv ur axent! What's that lingo called, matey? Can ye
> > patent it?
>
> Well, blows me timbers down, fer sures,..... ifs me cuds mebbees
> gits a patent fer it, or makes it be of da standard issue, that be
> fine bye me, ta all intents an' purposes.....(:+}}.
>
> > What da we calls it--
> >
> > Glowbonics? Thermiobonics? BAbonics? Bob-bonics? NA4Gbonics?
> > Har-Har-bonics? CWistbonics?
>
> Gee.... dunno, as long as it ain't Ebonics....... I kinda like that
> thar Glowbonics moniker fer da lingo, since me heart an me timbers
> be partials ta da Glowwebugge crewe.....
It be "popeye-bonics"
BA Bob yams wot he yam!
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 20:55:03 -0400
From: John <johnmb@mindspring.com>
Subject: AN/GRC-109 still active in the Army!
A search of Alta Vista turned up a cite for AN/GRC-109
at:
http://www.monmouth.army.mil/cecom/lrc/comm/tradio/multira.html
.....that indicates that this setup is still supported as part of
the Army's inventory, if I'm reading this page right!!
Amazing!
/John
(awaiting my set from Fair R.)
Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 22:42:21 -0700
From: Gerald Caouette <ve6nap@oanet.com>
Subject: Tubes for sale
I have just obtained 120 NIB/NOS JAN 5719 miniature tubes
As I only want a few of these for my own use
I am offering the rest for sale
and would like $ 2.50 U$ each
or
5 for $10.00 U$
25 for 48.00 U$
50 for $90.00 U$
Shippng and any applicable taxs extra
I still have 800 NIB/NOS JAN 5933 valves
These are a military equivelent to the 807
Same base, pin out and electrical specifications
looking for $6.00 U$ each
or
4 for 20.00 U$
10 for 45.00 U$
50 for 200.00 U$ ( 1 case )
100 for 375.00 U$ ( 2 cases )
as before shipping and applicable taxs extra
email if intrested
to
ve6anp@oanet.com
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 11:40:57 +0000
From: janax@xray.pro.icl.se
Subject: Re: Brit/Euro Tube Designation Codes
> From: dfrancis@iex.net (Dexter Francis)
> Subject: Brit/Euro Tube Designation Codes
> Type Designation Codes for Radio and Television Receiving tubes:
>
> First letter indicates the filament Voltage or current:
>
> D - Less than or Equal to 1.4V Series or Parallel Supply
> E - 6.3V Series or Parallel Supply
> G - Misc Series or Parallel Supply
> L - 450 ma.; Series Supply
> P - 300 ma.; Series Supply
> U - 100 ma.; Series Supply
>
> Some used the letters A (4V), B (180 ma.), C (200 ma.), F (12.6V), K (2V)
> and Y (50 ma.) but this practise was discontinued prior to 1974.
Add H 12.6V parallel or 150mA series supply, messy!
E is normally 6.3V parallel only except those 6.3V 300mA which can be
used with series supply.
G is mostly 5V parallel.
L is extremely rare.
Some D have dual filament 1.4/2.8V.
>
> The second and subsequent letters indicate the construction:
>
> A - Diode
> B - Double Diode w/common cathode, except rectifiers
> C - Triode, except power output tubes
> D - Power Output Triode
> E - Tetrode, except power output tetrodes
> F - Pentode, except power output pentodes'
> H - Hexode or Heptodes of the hexode type
> K - Octode or Heptode of the octode type
> L - Power output tetrode or pentode
> M - Tuning indicator
> Y - Half Wave Rectifier
> Z - Full Wave Rectifier
Add Q - Enneode (7 grids!). EQ80 is the only one, used as FM
detector.
>
> The Serial number consists of three figures, the first indicating the base type:
>
> 1 - Miscellaneous
> 2 - Miniature 10 pin
> 3 - Octal
> 5 - Magnoval
> 8 - Noval
> 9 - Miniature 7 pin
Just to confuse you all, 2 with 2 figures are 8 pin loctal. 2 with 3
figures are 10 pin mini. 5 with 2 figures are various, 5 with 3
figures are magnoval. 3 figure numbers beginning with 18 are noval
like EF184 (6EJ7).
Add 6 - Submini tubes (pencil tubes).
Add 7 - Submini or 8 pin loctal (replacing 2)
Special quality tubes have a different marking, as example ECF80 in
SQ version is marked E80CF.
> Happy hunting! (Yoikes and away!)
Yeah!
73
- ---
Jan, SM5GNN
Linkoeping, Sweden
janax@li.icl.se
janax@algonet.se
Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 10:11:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: rdkeys@csemail.cropsci.ncsu.edu
Subject: Re:
>
> Sorry I missed this. I was out late.
>
> Did you get anyone?
Well, I was on 3579 most of last night, until about 0300Z, and then
tried 40M, but the band was nil.....
After a few minutes on 3579 with that RTTY in the background, I keyed
up Big Bertha Radiomarine, and they seemed to disappear. Dunno why.
Maybe tonight.
73/ZUT DE NA4G/Bob UP
End of glowbugs V1 #26
**********************
Created by Steve Modena, AB4EL
Comments and suggestions to modena@SunSITE.unc.edu