Article: 319846 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HiTech RedNeck" References: <7RRCe.28177$aA5.26004@tornado.socal.rr.com> <1121719077.875715.68480@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <7802b$42dc29da$4232bda1$6814@COQUI.NET> Subject: Re: Ballast Tubes Need Homes Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 01:09:53 GMT "-ex-" wrote in message news:7802b$42dc29da$4232bda1$6814@COQUI.NET... > lbrty4us@aol.com wrote: > > > There should be a fine for people who point to AES for everything. ;-) > > > > No need. AES already charges one ($2.50) to anybody ordering from them. > > -Bill Noted, however occasionally AES will carry something you can't get anywhere else unless you buy some impossibly large quantity. Jameco and Allied and Mouser and Tubedepot are also all nice in their own way for getting certain one of a kind things, as is Angela Instruments. Though Angela sure seems to have a 'tude about hollering at you in all caps throughout their listings, and with no secure online ordering and iffy phone availability, I decided on fax. Tubedepot has an ultra low ground fedex shipping, though it took a couple go rounds with them to get an error on a pack of resistors fixed. (They were polite and apologetic about it.) Article: 319847 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: www.uRummage.com Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 19:13:32 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1122499652.728754.40300@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> bad boys bad boys, whatcha gonna do whatcha gonna do when they come for you. netcops! randy Article: 319848 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HiTech RedNeck" References: Subject: Re: Interest group for music collectors Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 01:16:55 GMT "Larry" wrote in message news:Xns96A0CAD4A1F93noone@63.223.7.253... > "HiTech RedNeck" wrote in > news:KWSFe.1074$aT1.345@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com: > > > in principle because the music file > > can be tagged at the source with an encrypted identity tracing back to > > the original purchase. > > Doesn't work. Products like Total Recorder (http://www.highcriteria.com > for $29) is a proxy server that sits between the operating system and the > soundcard. It will rip any sound source, either on its way to the > soundcard from software like RealAudio, or from the soundcard with an > external audio source plugged into it like the computer's own CD player > playing an audio CD. Because they can't send the encryption data to the > soundcard or from the soundcard's conversion of analog audio, what Total > Recorder converts to whatever codec you like (selectable) is unencrypted. I head heard sometime back about a scheme called digital watermarking, which involves putting things like subtle phase shifts in the sound to tap out codes at a rate of about 16 baud. "Golden ears" supposedly can't hear it. This was supposed to survive everything including D-A-D conversion. Of course like I pointed out, because we don't have Soviet Union type big brother police (yet) and people can always trade in person, this is trying to stuff a very big genie back into a very small bottle. Article: 319849 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HiTech RedNeck" References: <11ebiaha7hc4i59@corp.supernews.com> <1122376834.296691.240210@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <42E78B28.5567F563@sympatico.ca> <1122478318.580887.89880@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <8zOFe.5794$6f.5036@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Ultralinear transformers? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 01:33:05 GMT "robert casey" wrote in message news:zjVFe.10191$oZ.4621@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net... > > > I am wondering whether, if I replace that old tank electrolytic with a > > honkin' 1000 microfarad capacitor (also upgrading the diode to one that > > tolerates more surge current) and use individual 47 and 22 microfarad > > capacitors inside the chassis rather than on top, it will create any trouble > > with the hum bucking or some other obscure thing backfiring on me. The > > hoped effect is that it will virtually silence the hum. The old > > electrolytic is inside a ratty, scraped paper sleeve and protrudes from the > > top of the chassis, and it will be easier to clamp the new 1000 mfd in its > > place than try to rebuild something that's not all that old (though I'll > > keep it for possible future use). > > A filter cap of that style and age has probably dried up some and > lost lots of capacitance, thus allowing lots of hum. The hum > bucking scheme isn't perfect. A 100 or 200uF cap should work well > enough. Also a 47uF to 100uF cap for the old 22uF cap would > also be good. Remove the old cap's connections when you > connect up the new caps. The hum bucking circuit will still > work, it would just see less hum to buck. > > As for the heaters, I'd create a separate diode and cap for > it. Tubes prefer the heater be positive in respect to the > cathodes for lower noise anyway. If I do this (separate supply, or even with same one beefed up in stiffness with the 1000uF and heavy diode), and I keep the heater string order the 50EH5's will be more positive heater to cathode than the 12AX7 is. But of course the 12AX7 is in the most noise prone position. The 12AX7 heater is closest to circuit ground now. Should I reverse the heater string order to make the 12AX7 the highest guy on the DC heater string to maximally suppress noise? Article: 319850 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT: Political rant. Was Re: Good morning all From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <42e57c45@nntp.onyx.net> <1122500898.000029.211810@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 01:34:00 GMT In article <1122500898.000029.211810@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>, questforsquier@yahoo.com says... > > > >More to do with transportation costs. Like if you are near a pipeline Here in Ft Wayne it is tankered a whole 25 miles... 15 to the closest point of the city and they are always higher than the other end of town... really think they are just bending us over! John k9uwa Article: 319851 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Any News on Bill Turner? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <2LPEe.158127$go.55266@fed1read05> <19790-42E7989D-20@storefull-3155.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <0IWFe.189136$_o.125427@attbi_s71> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 01:40:12 GMT In article <19790-42E7989D-20@storefull-3155.bay.webtv.net>, jimfberg@webtv.net says... > > >I hope Bill is doing fine. I guess I will mail him a card. > UpDate on Bill Turner.... Jean just had a nice hour chat with Bill's girlfriend Sally.. on Saturday evening.... Bill is doing better.... but still in the ReHab center.. figure another couple of weeks it sounds like before he will get to come home... Speech is coming along well... Sally says that actually he now talks a bit better than he did prior to this stroke.. Still can't get up and walk by himself is the reason he is still in the place... says he sort of likes it there... only two guys in the rehab unit... and a lot of ladies... Any of you that want to call Bill ... he appreciates the calls and the chance to yak with the guys.. please call him after 3PM CDT as by then he will be back in his room after the therapy sessions... Phone number at the ReHab center is 636 - 947 - 5000 and ask for Bill Turner.... John k9uwa Article: 319852 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HiTech RedNeck" References: <1121969216.788834.157320@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <42E832D5.3040400@adelphia.net> Subject: Re: 12V plate tubes... many types! Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 02:02:18 GMT "Roger D Johnson" wrote in message news:42E832D5.3040400@adelphia.net... > BFoelsch wrote: > > "HiTech RedNeck" wrote in message > > news:BEVFe.360$gQ5.97@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com... > > > >> wrote in message > >>news:1121969216.788834.157320@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > >> > >>>Mark Oppat wrote: > >>> > >>> > >>>> Their use in production radios was fairly short, I think the first > >>>>use > >> > >>of > >> > >>>>these was 1956 model year, and they were done by about 1964 I think... > >>> > >>>More logically, just the natural extension of much earlier low-volt DC > >>>receiving tube use in light aircraft radios & etc. It had long been > >>>known (& used) that even higher-volt designed tubes could be > >>>practically used at these low voltages, so it seems natural that newer > >>>ones would be optimized for it. AFAIK the use of low-volt tubes in > >>>practical gear goes back to the beginning of the loctal era, if not > >>>further. > >> > >>What were some of the high volt tubes that could be pressed into the low > >>volt configuration of having the full "B+" on grid #1 (to overcome space > >>charge) and control signal on grid #2. I guess 12AU6 and the like > >>(pentodes) could serve, but with not much gain because the original screen > >>grid was not very close to the original control grid. > >> > >>Also space charge or no, I remember as a kid experimenter running a 25L6 > >>off > >>of 9 volt flashlight batteries with a headphone output, in a high voltage > >>like configured circuit. According to all the orthodox texts that kind of > >>low voltage should have never worked. The silly thing actually still > >>significantly amplified the input signal source (a phono cartridge), in a > >>way that did not sound distorted at all, and I proved that the responsible > >>agent was the tube by cutting off the power to the heater and hearing the > >>output signal die after a second or two. > >> > >>And there are starved-plate triode amplifiers in certain guitar tube > >>preamps > >>to this day, using much less than 24 volts for a B+. > > > > > > Back around 1950, QST published a circuit for a code practice oscillator > > that used NO plate supply. Used a 6J5 and an audio transformer. Only source > > of power was the heater. Worked strictly on the current flow caused by the > > heated cathode. I built one and it worked fine. I never measured it, but the > > plate voltage had to be below 1 volt. > > > > Maybe I'll slap it together again next rainy day, if I can remember the > > circuit. > > > > > It was in Feb 1954 QST. > > 73, Roger I wonder if a transmitter could be built from that, or maybe a beefier tube to get a better effect. The ultimate QRP, zero volts B+. (Well it's really using the A) Oh and I got a detail wrong about the "starved-plate" low volt operated triodes, they're actually "starved-cathode" (heater at reduced voltage). This reduces the volume of electrons boiled off the cathode, compensating for the current stopping space charge they'd otherwise (unclaimed by any nearby anode) create. I suppose such a technique would be a bit touchy to adjust in a mass produced item like a car radio, that has to work through a long tube lifetime. Article: 319853 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Sharon" References: Subject: Re: thanks, George! Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 22:10:52 -0400 Message-ID: <42e83fb5$0$14460$8b463f8a@news.nationwide.net> what does this have to do with mexican food??????????? "cowboy" wrote in message news:jdydnRgzePnFSVTfRVn-1w@comcast.com... > On July 4th, I'd like to thank George Bush for all he has done for our > country: > > > taking the largest surplus of all time and turn it into the largest deficit > of > all time, something we now have to pay back, and so your children and > grandchildren are now about $150,000 in debt......each! > > murdering over 100,000 innocent Iraqis who never did anything to any country > > setting back environmental law 200 years by selling out to mega-polluting > evil > corporations > > trying to force organized shady religion on the people in violation of the > Constitution > > stopping stem cell research that could save millions of people from the > ravages of Alzheimer's, Parkinson's, etc. > > implementing policies that resulted in the largest job loss in American > history, and the jobs have never returned > > lying to the American people and the world with one reason after another on > why nearly 2000 Americans needed to die, then we find out it is all a pack > of lies > > managing to turn 95% of the countries of the world against us, someday we > will need their help when China & India become superpowers. > > declaring a bogus war "on terrorism" via a middle east nation-building oil > grab that, for every "terrorist" killed, about 100 new real terrorists are > created! > > installing wacko extremist judges into lifetime appointments in the federal > judiciary, ensuring this Hitler-like madness will continue > > > Article: 319854 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HiTech RedNeck" References: Subject: Re: How to do gold lettering for finished wood? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 02:32:48 GMT Thanks. Letraset was a confusing site to me, and I could not figure out how you actually buy something there, but I found another, much friendlier one (Speedy Signs, www.speedysigns.com ). With some fiddling around and watching the measurements, I can produce a custom decal with the words fully spelled out in the places they need to be, in a very wide choice of fonts and colors, for well under ten bucks. They're a vinyl decal of the letters on a backing paper and water transfer, the only caveat is they have to be placed on a smooth oil free surface. I think I will use them, with water based polyurethane varnish as a base. (Unless someone can suggest a better medium.) "Robert Murrell" wrote in message news:vI6Ce.2484$dX5.2137@newssvr19.news.prodigy.com... > I have used dry transfer lettering. You have to place each letter > individually, but you can spell anything and can match the original font. > Try looking at the Letraset web site. > > "HiTech RedNeck" wrote in message > news:U24Ce.3953$Ih7.2775@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com... > >I have an old wooden stereo phono cabinet, of varnished wood, that is > >beaten > > up enough that I would like to strip, sand, re-stain, and re-varnish it. > > Its value to me is as a family memento, not a collectors' item (i.e. I > > want > > it to look nice in the living room, but I'd never want to sell it). > > However > > stripping the wood finish would remove some gold colored lettering, 1/8" > > high, that is on an approximately 14" long, 1/4" high strip of wood > > beneath > > the control knobs. How could I re-apply such lettering to the refinished > > cabinet? I'm thinking in terms of creating a decal that would fit the > > entire strip, but I don't want the covered surface to look like it > > obviously > > has a decal on it. > > > > TIA > > redneck > > > > > > > Article: 319855 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ron in Radio Heaven Subject: Moviedial blub photos Message-ID: <5vXFe.60755$3j2.2022223@twister.southeast.rr.com> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 02:34:41 GMT I just posted 3 photos of the spare bulb from my Airline Moviedial on the binaries group, alt.binaries.pictures.radio Ron Article: 319856 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 22:40:57 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: PA speakers - Worth salvaging? References: <11ee5ac2fna036e@corp.supernews.com> <1122517351.870410.283300@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <1d40e$42e845bd$4232bdf5$14379@COQUI.NET> lbrty4us@aol.com wrote: > Typical 70-volt OPT primary Z's for typical power taps, as per abv > formula: > > 1w = 5,000 > 2w = 2500 > 5w = 1000 > 10w = 500 > > > 1w taps on OPT's used in schools & other larger distribution systems > were seldom seen. A 1w tap (5000z) *would* be useful with a low-fi > single-tube 6V6 in a pinch when no good OPT can be afforded or > scrounged, and somewhat crappy but useable for speech with a 6F6 at it > typical O/P. They were not designed for music. > > They also are not designed to carry DC. My mileage varies. I recently used a new 8" pa system type speaker complete with its transformer in a Philco 366. It sounded great and although I was warned about the DC aspect, I played the radio for about 8 hours a day for nearly two months with no problems. -Bill Article: 319857 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Adney Subject: Re: Help Identify Early Fisher Amp photo Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 21:28:17 -0500 Message-ID: <5hgge151jv0n9hsdr2v1dbhhul9mg7nakt@4ax.com> References: <1122467313.037313.113780@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1122483607.859731.288170@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> On 27 Jul 2005 10:00:07 -0700 sharknews@aol.com wrote: >can another tube type be substituted....I have many but not that one It should be easy to find an OA2. It's a very common and inexpensive item. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- Article: 319858 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: FREE! Scott 800 radio/tv/phono console in Wisconsin Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 11:46:30 +0900 Message-ID: References: "Phil Nelson" wrote in message news:SYednZpOfNDVo3XfRVn-iQ@giganews.com... > A visitor to my website has a Scott radio/tv/phono console that he would > like to give away (yes, that's F-R-E-E) to someone who would restore and > care for it. > > Note the part about "restore and care for it." That means, no eBay > resellers. It also means you would not take it for the speaker or some other > part and throw the rest in the garbage :-) > > This is Grandpa's set, not a curb find, and it has a 17" (Croydon?) TV, not > the piddly little 12" TV like mine ( http://antiqueradio.org/scot03.htm ). > Yes, I agree that the speaker board looks like a replacement, but nothing > that a few shots of toning lacquer couldn't cure. > > I would take it myself for the shipping cost, but who has room in the house > for two of these babies? It is located in Wisconsin. > > I have posted a photo in the alt.binaries.pictures.radio newsgroup. > > To get in touch with the owner, go to http://antiqueradio.org/contact.htm > and send me an email. > > Regards, I'd pay to get it shipped here in parts.... Article: 319859 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HiTech RedNeck" References: <1121969216.788834.157320@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122518763.866341.80280@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: 12V plate tubes... many types! Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 02:57:51 GMT wrote in message news:1122518763.866341.80280@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > HiTech RedNeck wrote: > > > What were some of the high volt tubes that could be pressed into the low > > volt configuration of having the full "B+" on grid #1 (to overcome space > > charge) and control signal on grid #2. > > I have no idea what you are going on about, they were not space-charged > tubes & you are making things up to fit your idea of why they worked. > See Ken's mention of the BC-1206, for only one example of a pre-WW2 > very reliable nav radio audible in a very loud biplane using ordinary > 12v heater loctals in a conventional ckt with very low operating point. Take that 'tude off dude, I'm just questioning following on to someone else's remark about the lo volt usage of the high volt tubes, surmising that's what they MIGHT have done. I ain't surprised that the rules on how low you can go with B+ could be "broken" contrary to the books, like I said I tried it myself empirically, probably when you were knee high to a peanut. I also *do* know how the *actual* designed space charge tubes work. Article: 319860 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" References: <1122406870.601089.195230@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <3WCFe.5455$6f.1684@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> <453ca$42e703ea$4232be0d$26763@COQUI.NET> Subject: Re: Resonant capacitor from ground to chassis? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:04:50 GMT What I found today: Line at 117vac; origonal selenium rectifier; 8 volts across filiment string. No resonant cap - Birdies all over the band from 1620 to 530. Origonal Resonant cap back in - Birdies from 1620 to 1500 New 0.1 uf Safey - Same as Resonant cap. Replaced Selenium with Silicon and 180 ohm 2w resistor (tweaked for 6.20 volts across filiment string (1.4v rated filiments all 4 tubes including the 3V4) at 120 vac) - Input AC Resultant 120 Same birdies as new 0.1uf non res. 117 One birdie at ~1600 109 No birdies at all. After alignment at 120 vac one birdie remained with very clear strong reception.recieves well at 117vac and Ok at 109 vac. Tweaked lead wires around oscillator coil and eliminated the last birdie! Now to re-stich the leather case. The thread (string) just seemed to decay. Thanks all for your input, Paul. P Article: 319861 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: FREE! Scott 800 radio/tv/phono console in Wisconsin Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 13:08:59 +0900 Message-ID: References: "Omer Suleimanagich" wrote in message news:GSYFe.9573$dU3.2821@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > Why doesn't someone check how much shipping would cost, and then just pay > for the shipping! > In my case, I couldn't have it shipped in one piece. Article: 319862 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: Subject: Re: FREE! Scott 800 radio/tv/phono console in Wisconsin Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:08:06 GMT Why doesn't someone check how much shipping would cost, and then just pay for the shipping! Omer "Brenda Ann" wrote in message news:dc9gsb$po6$1@news2.kornet.net... > > "Phil Nelson" wrote in message > news:SYednZpOfNDVo3XfRVn-iQ@giganews.com... >> A visitor to my website has a Scott radio/tv/phono console that he would >> like to give away (yes, that's F-R-E-E) to someone who would restore and >> care for it. >> >> Note the part about "restore and care for it." That means, no eBay >> resellers. It also means you would not take it for the speaker or some > other >> part and throw the rest in the garbage :-) >> >> This is Grandpa's set, not a curb find, and it has a 17" (Croydon?) TV, > not >> the piddly little 12" TV like mine ( >> http://antiqueradio.org/scot03.htm ). >> Yes, I agree that the speaker board looks like a replacement, but nothing >> that a few shots of toning lacquer couldn't cure. >> >> I would take it myself for the shipping cost, but who has room in the > house >> for two of these babies? It is located in Wisconsin. >> >> I have posted a photo in the alt.binaries.pictures.radio newsgroup. >> >> To get in touch with the owner, go to http://antiqueradio.org/contact.htm >> and send me an email. >> >> Regards, > > I'd pay to get it shipped here in parts.... > > Article: 319863 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: 1961 Sergio Rodrigues Sheriff "Mole" Chair on eBay (Ends Aug 5) From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122482346.905935.250490@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122502598.205656.121820@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122510009.875040.37050@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <9VYFe.189567$_o.87551@attbi_s71> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:10:45 GMT In article , philnelson@nospam.xyz says... > > >Let's hope it never resurfaces. >Phil Nelson > > Well every year or so... some "Dim Bulb" gets the bright idea of trying it... usually they have no idea what is involved... or what the ramifications of the new group and the elimination of the old group would involve!.. John k9uwa Article: 319864 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Ballast Tubes Need Homes From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122520929.381094.180900@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:17:34 GMT In article <1122520929.381094.180900@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>, lbrty4us@aol.com says... > > >HiTech RedNeck wrote: > >> Noted, however occasionally AES will carry something you can't get anywhere >> else unless you buy some impossibly large quantity. > >Name one. > Well I restore about as many radios as anyone else I know of... about 150 of them per year.... I have now reached my "One Year Anniversary" from ordering anything from AES ... two things totally soured me on them..... #1.... their "Handling Fee" #2.... their continued selling of Zenith Dial Glass for the '38 radios... even though they have known for 3 years that what they are selling won't fit the radio.... Convexivity is TOO GREAT and the chassis won't fit into cabinet far enough to get the knobs on the radio.... and they still insist if you want to send it back.... thats #1.... U PAY RETURN POSTAGE... and #2... they charge you a 25% Re-Stocking Fee..................... in three words.............. rather than the 2 words I would rather use! PISS ON THEM! I'll now go quietly back to my nose in the corner position! John k9uwa Article: 319865 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: Subject: Re: FREE! Scott 800 radio/tv/phono console in Wisconsin Message-ID: <30ZFe.9577$dU3.2332@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:18:07 GMT WHY? Omer "Brenda Ann" wrote in message news:dc9ln0$qld$1@news2.kornet.net... > > "Omer Suleimanagich" wrote in message > news:GSYFe.9573$dU3.2821@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> Why doesn't someone check how much shipping would cost, and then just pay >> for the shipping! >> > > In my case, I couldn't have it shipped in one piece. > > > Article: 319866 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: FREE! Scott 800 console in Wisconsin: ATTENTION JIM HILINS From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:20:52 GMT In article , philnelson@nospam.xyz says... > > > >Phil Nelson Wake Up Jim Hilins.... this is in your backyard!..... John k9uwa Article: 319867 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: Subject: Re: FREE! Scott 800 console in Wisconsin: ATTENTION JIM HILINS Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:24:01 GMT SOMEBODY PLEASE WAKE UP! Omer "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:E2ZFe.188102$x96.158977@attbi_s72... > In article , philnelson@nospam.xyz > says... >> >> >> >>Phil Nelson > > > Wake Up Jim Hilins.... this is in your backyard!..... > > John k9uwa > Article: 319868 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: PayPal From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <35341$42e7b743$4232bd40$30118@COQUI.NET> <5qWdnZK8YeresHXfRVn-hg@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:26:29 GMT In article , gizzledgeezer@comcast.net says... > > >This was no accident; they >planned it from the beginning. > > Yes I am sure that they were plotting against us from the beginning!... Where's the rest of my Run & Coke?... John k9uwa Article: 319869 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: Subject: Re: FREE! Scott 800 console in Wisconsin: ATTENTION JIM HILINS Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 23:45:42 -0500 Message-ID: <42e862a5$1_2@newspeer2.tds.net> Wake up? I told Phil an hour ago that I was interested. Most people in this time zone are asleep at this hour though, as I'm sure the one who has the set now is. He is in the same town as my office; pickup would be trivial. Gonna be at least spring before I'm able to work on it though; we're trying to build a house this fall. Just have to wait and see if I'm the lucky winner. paul "Omer Suleimanagich" wrote in message news:B5ZFe.9578$dU3.7480@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > SOMEBODY PLEASE WAKE UP! > > Omer > > > "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message > news:E2ZFe.188102$x96.158977@attbi_s72... > > In article , philnelson@nospam.xyz > > says... > >> > >> > >> > >>Phil Nelson > > > > > > Wake Up Jim Hilins.... this is in your backyard!..... > > > > John k9uwa > > > > Article: 319870 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DaveW Subject: Re: Ballast Tubes Need Homes References: <7RRCe.28177$aA5.26004@tornado.socal.rr.com> <1121719077.875715.68480@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <7802b$42dc29da$4232bda1$6814@COQUI.NET> <1122520929.381094.180900@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 04:48:18 GMT lbrty4us@aol.com wrote: > HiTech RedNeck wrote: > > >>Noted, however occasionally AES will carry something you can't get anywhere >>else unless you buy some impossibly large quantity. > > > Name one. > Sorry, can't name one, but I'm not going to try. But I will put forth that for us West Coast folks, AES though expensive, is very fast. For those of us in Southern California, an order placed on Wednesday will often arrive on Friday, just in time for weekend work. And I'm talking UPS ground shipping. Almost any other commercial source takes five days in transit, unless you pay for air shipping, which easily eats up the $2.50 on most orders. Sure, AES is a bit pricey, but they are friendly, fast and efficient. I'd dare say that if you are East of the Mississippi, your mileage will vary. Regards, DAve Article: 319871 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" References: Subject: Re: Need a knob for.... Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 05:33:40 GMT Stephanie, I have rebuilt knob shafts with cut up pieces of Bic ink pens and 5 min epoxy. If you don't need museum quality it works quite well. If you are missing the metal clip to hold the split end tight I have used a wrapping of bar copper wire with a dab of solder. Paul P. Article: 319872 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" References: Subject: Re: Need a knob for.... Message-ID: <88_Fe.41201$5N3.23908@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 05:35:00 GMT Oh, don't forget the heat shrink tubing to reinforce the joint between the original shaft and the new spliced on ink pen. PP. "Paul P" wrote in message news:U6_Fe.41197$5N3.40287@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > Stephanie, > > I have rebuilt knob shafts with cut up pieces of Bic ink pens and 5 min > epoxy. If you don't need museum quality it works quite well. If you are > missing the metal clip to hold the split end tight I have used a wrapping > of bar copper wire with a dab of solder. > > Paul P. > Article: 319873 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: PayPal Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 23:48:15 -0600 Message-ID: References: <35341$42e7b743$4232bd40$30118@COQUI.NET> <5qWdnZK8YeresHXfRVn-hg@comcast.com> "William Sommerwerck" wrote in message news:xcidna2CHpnWp3XfRVn-2Q@comcast.com... >> What's your point, man? Should all businesses be required to get >> your approval before deciding on a fee for a service? > > Why not? I'm their customer. why are you a customer of a business you think is ripping you off? >> If you want to cry about businesses overcharging, I think PayPal is >> a ridiculous place to start... > > You've got to start somewhere. PayPal has no reall competition, so they > think they can charge whatever they like. > > Note that PayPal cleverly went from giving almost everything for free, > then > slowly adding high charges for their services. This was no accident; they > planned it from the beginning. imagine that. a business that planned to maximize its profits... somebody do something!!!! randy Article: 319874 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 01:57:46 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Zenith C725F References: <1122444602.770801.50300@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122525989.937755.254230@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <73e76$42e873de$4232bd40$4172@COQUI.NET> Jeff, WB8NHV wrote: > matter, I don't think you'd need cable in the city for TV reception if > you are within sight of the Empire State Building Can you say multi-path! Years ago I visited a cable headend about 40 miles north of NYC (Bedford-Mt. Kisco). It was on a hilltop and you could see the skyline of Manhattan. The VHF channels were terrible with ghosting and they used the UHF repeaters that were active at the time to receive everything! -Bill Article: 319875 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: FREE! Scott 800 radio/tv/phono console in Wisconsin Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 15:04:04 +0900 Message-ID: References: <30ZFe.9577$dU3.2332@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> "Omer Suleimanagich" wrote in message news:30ZFe.9577$dU3.2332@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > WHY? > Because I can only receive parcels via USPS, with their 70lb and 108" limits.. Article: 319876 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: _@_._ Subject: Re: thanks, George! Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 07:45:43 +0000 Message-ID: <11eh3982tebv141@corp.supernews.com> References: <42e83fb5$0$14460$8b463f8a@news.nationwide.net> Sharon wrote: >what does this have to do with mexican food??????????? Quit replying to weeks-old off-topic posts, you stupid moron! Article: 319877 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: deFLOWERed Subject: SEEKING DEC 1937 Gangbusters about the Gibson Midwestern bank robbing gang Message-ID: <0apbe117nlq0tlmnugdkjei9gmtfoadnhc@4ax.com> Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 08:13:05 GMT Clair Gibson got my grandmother's brother thrown in Prison for a 1936 bank robbery in Minnesota. Then, when Gibson himself was apprehended, he jumped from the 4th floor of the jail house and killed himself. I would love to find this episode for my Grandmother to hear. thanks! guyharrison@mn.rr.com Please reply via email to: toyfreaks@nospam/hotmail.com Article: 319878 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Newby to the group, with a .djvu query. Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 09:08:49 GMT Hello all, I recently signed up for this NG, and read a large number of the posts since January, so I have a bit of a feel for the culture in here. I also made notes of a number of useful Web sites as mentioned by NG members. I used to tinker with radios and TVs a lot when I was a kid, (back when they were just old radios) and then pretty much got away from it. Now I'm starting to to accumulate a trove of electronic junque again. The AA5s and '30s - '40s transformer sets, I'm pretty familiar with, but I recently acquired a pair of Atwater-Kent model 70s, at least, that's what I remember them as. Circa 1925, 4 tube breadboard sets. Not sure if they are TRF or regen circuits. I expect they used '01As or variants thereof, bayonet style sockets, anyway. No tubes came with. Between the two, I think I have enough to make a radio. I went to the Schematic Bank, and attempted to download a Model 70 schematic, having previously downloaded the standalone viewer. All I get is a blank page, and an error message "JB2 data requires a shape dictionary". I know the viewer works, because I downloaded a Zenith radio schematic at random, and it worked just fine. So, have I done something wrong, or are the files for A-K somehow incomplete? I might add I tried for a different A-K schematic, and got the same result. Currently, I have a pair of Bakelite Admirals, one with smashed case, but which works; to go into the other case, of course. I plan to replace the paper caps, having already done the filter can. Also have a nice little all-band table top wood radio, don't remember the make (I'm not at home to go check.), a large DeForest console, a late '40s Zenith AM-FM (single current FM band), a West German AJA multi-band job with eye tube which plays very well, and several transistor portables, including one very old one which employs point-to-point wiring on a metal chassis. Also quite a collection of parts, some of them holdovers from 30+ years ago. One radio I used to own, and really regret parting with: a Zenith Trans-Oceanic, model uncertain, but it used loktal tubes, and had a simulated alligator leatherette case. I actually built an inverter to provide the 90 volt B-circuit voltage from a pair of 6 volt lantern batteries. BTW, I'm located in rural Alberta, about 80 miles northeast of Calgary, but I'm currently on the job at a wellsite in B.C. Gord Richmond Article: 319879 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" Subject: Resonant cap follow up. Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 12:05:03 GMT What I found today: Line at 117vac; original selenium rectifier; 8 volts across filament string. No resonant cap - Birdies all over the band from 1620 to 530. Original Resonant cap back in - Birdies from 1620 to 1500 New 0.1 uf Safety - Same as Resonant cap. Replaced Selenium with Silicon and 180 ohm 2w resistor (tweaked for 6.20 volts across filament string (1.4v rated filaments all 4 tubes including the 3V4) at 120 vac) - Input AC Resultant 120 Same birdies as new 0.1uf non res. 117 One birdie at ~1600 109 No birdies at all. After alignment at 120 vac one birdie remained with very clear strong reception.receives well at 117vac and Ok at 109 vac. Tweaked lead wires around oscillator coil and eliminated the last birdie! Now to re-stitch the leather case. The thread (string) just seemed to decay. Thanks all for your input, Paul. P Article: 319880 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Newby to the group, with a .djvu query. From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 12:43:36 GMT In article , richmond@telusplanet.net says... > > >Hello all, > > >Gord Richmond Welcome to the group Gord... not sure where you looked for the schematic of the AK-70 .... from Nostalgia Air they are now PDF type files and operate under Adobe Reader... Click this one first... http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/454/M0001454.htm then you have a choice of left " little monitor screen to download the file into your computer.... or right side.... "The Eye" to bring it up and look at it on the computer screen... Both are PDF files.... Adobe Acrobat Reader is the program that you use to view them with... Radio is a TRF design... and a pretty good one at that. Have fun rebuilding the old filter capacitor blocks and replacing some wire... John k9uwa Article: 319881 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 08:45:26 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Farewell to a dear friend... References: <1122211291.630476.63540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122525966.637263.237640@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Phil B wrote: > > My $.02 is that "conservative christians" as a political force just > plain SUCK. Any unbending religious group, be they conservative > christians or fundamentalist muslems, who invade the political realm are > a danger to the civilized world. > > A note to conservative christians: back off! Funny thing..."conservative christians as a political force" didn't seem to really exist BEFORE the 2004 election - or at least never got much publicity. Only when they analyzed the exit polls trying to figure out why Kerry lost did they (the media) come up with this evil bogeyman. Wonder where this political force was when Pat Robertson made his feeble attempt at running? Now its been parroted so much that people actually believe it and lefties are now cowering in the corners in fear of this giant political force that is poised to stomp them out in the name of the religion. Just ain't so. -Bill Article: 319965 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Remember this Zenith 9s262? Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 01:47:16 -0600 Message-ID: <18311-42EB3084-110@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> References: <1122695602.717122.32820@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> In order to glue veneer properly you need lots of clamps and plenty of strips and pieces of wood to help clamp down larger areas and to keep the clamps from marking the wood up . Before you apply any glue you need to have all clamps and pieces of wood ready for the spot you are working on and its a good idea to test fit ( dry run ) to make sure all clamps & wood fit and clamp well on larger areas ... you dont want to be running around searching for clamps after the glue goes on . You can use a hot iron to remove the wrinkled veneer mistake and do your best to scrape all the glue back off while its still warm . You can put a hot electric iron on wood for a short time without burning , its best to move it around a bit although a piece of ordinary printer paper works well to keep the aluminum iron from marking up the wood . Elmers white glue will work but for large areas its best to use yellow wood glue . Article: 319966 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Antique radio used to speak with spirits Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 00:51:27 -0700 Message-ID: References: robert casey wrote: > >> >> Turning to sports, anyone know what the radio is? Mind you, the wax >> will have stained the wood, won't it? >> > > Looks like a prewar Philco, AM and maybe SW. I suppose most of > the junk drawn on the top would sand right off. The wax drippings > might be a bit more difficult to completely eliminate from > any exposed wood grain though. Looks like it has a power > transformer, hopefully it's not burned out (shorted filters > and such). It probably hummed a lot, and the sound of a > radio that almost works but has bad power supply filters might > give radio station voices a weird enough sound to make someone > think that they were from spirits.... Especially if it was > tuning SW stations that fade in and out a lot.... Definitely a Philco....I've got one just like it (but without the weird ouija board shit on top). Three bands IIRC. As to the seller's description, I am speechless. -Scott Article: 319967 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave McClellan" References: <9bLFe.20129$bG4.411@fe06.lga> <1122581057.821601.38370@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122676875.306856.3720@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Lamp for Wards Airline "Movie Dial" radio Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 06:45:55 -0400 Yes, the #81 will work. However, I was not able to get correct focus all across the screen, and the display is not very bright. I believe the original lamp had a smaller "point source" filament structure that the #81. Check out the photos of the original lamp posted by Ron In Radio Heaven in the binaries group. Another newsgroup member said that a VW Beetle tail lamp bulb would work well (6 volt, tubular shape). I am still looking for one to try! Dave "Ed Engelken" wrote in message news:1122676875.306856.3720@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > The correct bulb is the #81, just like the fuse lamp in the Hickok tube > testers. > > Best Regards, > > Ed Engelken > Canyon Lake, TX > Article: 319968 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <42e9b2b1$0$16783$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Subject: Re: Where can I find a new analog meter? Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 11:44:22 GMT Bear in mind that there's a difference between the VOM and a VTVM. A VOM has the advantage of being portable and battery operated. A VTVM is the far better choice for working with high-Z tube circuits, with its 11-meg input impedance. My personal favorite is the RCA Sr. VoltOhmist, and I have one that I use every day. It's sitting on top of my digital meter. When I want accuracy I use the digital; when I want to "see" variations in voltage or resistance, such as testing old volume controls, I use the VTVM. You can't do that easily with a digital. VTVM's in good condition are plentiful. I haven't checked eBay, but I'm sure there are several to choose from -- OR, visit your local swap meet. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "CalBubba" wrote in message news:42e9b2b1$0$16783$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com... > I'm looking to replace a VOM that I recently trashed. I can't seem to find > any. > > I'm looking for a couple of inexpensive ones: one like the little > hand-sized ones that Radio Shack used to sell, low-tolerance, like for use > in the car and to read power outlets. > > The other would be a slightly better one, suited for low-grade electronics > work -- with enough precision so I can see the needle moving to tip me off > to variations. > > Any ideas? > > Bubba Article: 319969 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 08:15:37 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Farewell to a dear friend... References: <_7-dnWFGDoElxHbfRVn-uA@comcast.com> Message-ID: <71b63$42eb6f6c$4232bd6a$14545@COQUI.NET> William Sommerwerck wrote: > > How many times do we have to repeat the (presumed) fact that McDonald's > coffee was significantly hotter than that of other restaurants, and that it > had been warned about the possibility of scalds? > > Just curious. Who/what is the legislative (and enforcement) agency that determines the "correct" temperature of coffee in fast food joints? -Bill Article: 319970 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <42e9b2b1$0$16783$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Subject: Re: Where can I find a new analog meter? Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 12:17:11 GMT After posting this message I looked on eBay to see what's there. There are plenty of VTVM's and VOM's listed, in the $10-20 range. This includes the ol' standby Triplett 630's and Simpson 260's. There's a couple B&K VTVM's that are VER-RY tempting -- and, before I left the page I bought a Simpson digital bench meter for $25. Gee, looking at eBay costs me money . . . -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:qKJGe.11118$oZ.9108@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net... > Bear in mind that there's a difference between the VOM and a VTVM. A VOM > has the advantage of being portable and battery operated. A VTVM is the > far better choice for working with high-Z tube circuits, with its 11-meg > input impedance. My personal favorite is the RCA Sr. VoltOhmist, and I > have one that I use every day. It's sitting on top of my digital meter. > When I want accuracy I use the digital; when I want to "see" variations in > voltage or resistance, such as testing old volume controls, I use the > VTVM. You can't do that easily with a digital. > > VTVM's in good condition are plentiful. I haven't checked eBay, but I'm > sure there are several to choose from -- OR, visit your local swap meet. > > > -- > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > > > "CalBubba" wrote in message > news:42e9b2b1$0$16783$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com... >> I'm looking to replace a VOM that I recently trashed. I can't seem to >> find any. >> >> I'm looking for a couple of inexpensive ones: one like the little >> hand-sized ones that Radio Shack used to sell, low-tolerance, like for >> use in the car and to read power outlets. >> >> The other would be a slightly better one, suited for low-grade >> electronics work -- with enough precision so I can see the needle moving >> to tip me off to variations. >> >> Any ideas? >> >> Bubba > > Article: 319971 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 08:23:27 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Farewell to a dear friend... References: <1122211291.630476.63540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122525966.637263.237640@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122673383.434240.8180@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <9b27c$42eb7142$4232bd6a$15205@COQUI.NET> William Sommerwerck wrote: > > PS: There was an interesting newspaper essay the other day from a New York > times writer remarking that such issues as abortion and gay rights are so > divisive because we have not arrived at any social consensus on them, but > are letting the courts make the decisions. Good point. > > NEWS FLASH ! - The Supreme Court in a 5-4 decision has declared the US Constitution as unconstitutional and cannot be enforced. Article: 319972 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 08:35:01 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: PayPal References: <35341$42e7b743$4232bd40$30118@COQUI.NET> <5qWdnZK8YeresHXfRVn-hg@comcast.com> Message-ID: <226be$42eb73f9$4232bd6a$16144@COQUI.NET> William Sommerwerck wrote: > > You're forgetting that there /is/ no "market". Is there an alternative to > PayPal? If there is, I'd like to know about it. > > Well, there's BidPay which can go directly into the seller's account with no fees to the seller but 2.95 and up to the buyer. There is/was c2it, Citibank's venture into the market. Then there's schlepping somewhere to buy a money order or cashier's check and mailing it. Fees vary. Then there's a bank-to-bank wire transfer which at my bank is $20 for outgoing and $10 for incoming. There's Western Union and Moneygram where the seller can go pick up his payment at a supermarket on the other side of town. Then there's the mailing cash option. Should you choose to register the mail for assurance, that service can be purchased for a few bucks. There's UPS COD service. You can haggle with fresh eggs or farm animals. Of course there are alternatives. None of them are particularly good. -Bill Article: 319973 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: FA: Gilfillan console (not mine) From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 12:40:45 GMT In article , moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet says... > > >Here is a real interesting console... a rare west coast brand, PLUS , check >out the side grilles! > >http://cgi.ebay.com/1930s-Gilfillan-Floor-Model-Radio-Short-wave-AM-8-Tube_W0 QQitemZ6549403704QQcategoryZ38034QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > >Mark Oppat > > > So what is the connection between Gilfillan and Setchell-Carlson?.. Just finished up this Setchell-Carlson table radio... it was a battery 6 volt powered arrangement.. one I never found exact correct information on the model number or schematic... The Bezel Plate around the Dial .... is ONE PERFECT match to this Gilfillan Console .... John k9uwa Article: 319974 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Lamp for Wards Airline "Movie Dial" radio From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <9bLFe.20129$bG4.411@fe06.lga> <1122581057.821601.38370@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122676875.306856.3720@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 12:47:32 GMT In article , dave@mcclellans.com says... > > >Yes, the #81 will work. > >However, I was not able to get correct focus all across the screen, and the > >Dave Wonder if it is like the Philco Shadow meters where they tell you that the filament in the bulb has to be aimed in the correct direction? That will effect considerably the focus.... will do nothing for the brightness of the display. John k9uwa Article: 319975 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: PayPal From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <19825$42e73d6c$4232bd8d$1602@COQUI.NET> Message-ID: <7RKGe.223140$nG6.64328@attbi_s22> Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 12:59:47 GMT In article , spsfnospamfan@verizon.net says... > > >But Walmart has a lot more profits to offset the loss. > >DAve Well Walmart has a much of course bigger number.... but thats not a fair comparison.. you would have to look at the actual precentage of sales that have a problem of chargeback... or loss due to phoney money or phoney credit cards etc... as for actual percentage of profit... I think that the average joe doe FleaBayer probably makes a larger percentage profit than Walmart does.. not talking about the guy that just wants to sell a couple of his radios or widgets now and then... I am talking about the people that make a business out of buying stuff... all sorts of stuff from various sources locally and reselling it on Fleabay ... John k9uwa Article: 319976 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Remember this Zenith 9s262? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122695602.717122.32820@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <1122724996.580051.52520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <4WKGe.223179$xm3.107273@attbi_s21> Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 13:05:04 GMT In article <1122724996.580051.52520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>, garyb@citicom.com says... > > >Thanks Ken. Would you know if you can remove glued down veneer with >heat as well? > Yup Gary it works..... Jean bought an extra cheap iron just for playing with the veneer... wouldn't use her regular iron and don't use your wife's on it.... or you will be in the doghouse.. John k9uwa Article: 319977 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Robert Murrell" References: Subject: Re: Relica aluminum grill for Deluxe radio Message-ID: <2uMGe.847$EX5.479@newssvr31.news.prodigy.com> Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 14:51:42 GMT I considered laser and water jet cutting first but was told they are more expensive for setup. The chemical etching will work with artwork, as it is a photographic process. But I'll get some quotes to check them out. We have a mechanical design department where I work, but they do not have tools to convert artwork directly to CAD. That conversion will cost a lot to do professionally. "Robert Sherrod" wrote in message news:flzGe.195199$x96.43764@attbi_s72... > Robert, > > Cheaper yet would be a company with a laser cutter and a system to input > the necessary data into the cutter. It wouldn't take much to measure and > model the part in a CAD program, which then could be output into a laser > cutter. > > I am a CAD technician and I work for a company that provides engineering > support to companies such as John Deere and Caterpillar. John Deere > Harvester works in nearby East Moline, Illinois laser cuts sheet metal > parts directly from the flat pattern in the 3D model file. > > It would be worth a look. > > Later, > > Bobby > > Robert Murrell wrote: >> I have a deco Deluxe radio with an aluminum grill. The grill was made >> with very thin aluminum. Of the few of these radio I've seen, all had >> bent grills. I found a place that uses chemical etching to cut intricate >> holes in sheet metal. The setup costs $200-$300 and each item is a few >> dollars after that. I was thinking I could have 10 made up for $30 -$35 >> a piece. The problem is, could I recoup my costs by selling them? Does >> anyone else have this radio and need a new grill? I posted a picture on >> the binaries group. >> Article: 319978 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: 'best match' of impedance? Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 09:41:34 -0600 Message-ID: i just thought i would toss this out as a theoretical case for discussion... given that i have an amp which has several taps on the output transformer, allowing a selection of 4,8, and 16 ohms (amongst others). and i want to buy a speaker. and that particular speaker can be found in 4,8, and 16 ohm flavors. same speaker, just different impedances... now i know its best to match impedances, i.e. if i configure the amp for 4 ohms, i should use a 4 ohm speaker.... but is there any 'best match'? if you can choose the impedance, is there any reason to choose 16 vs 8 vs 4 ohms? my gut feeling is that a higher impedance is better, but i cant give any particularly good reason why. all comments welcome. thx randy Article: 319979 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Seeburg Voice" Subject: FA: The Seeburg Voice - January 1952 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 15:48:22 GMT http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6196968692 Article: 319980 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: 'best match' of impedance? Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 15:53:45 GMT I'm assuming this is a home unit. Most home speakers are 8 ohms; so why change it? If you happen to do things like connecting two speakers to each output, move the tap to 4 ohms. Otherwise keep it at 8. There are a couple of reason why you might want to change the speaker impedance. In automobiles where you have only 12 volts to work with, you only get about 6 watts RMS into 4 ohms. You can bridge amps together, as with many modern stereos, but in all cases you get a lot more power when using 4 ohms as opposed to 8. Also 2 ohms, assuming the amp is designed for it, can allow for even more power, but the "standard" is presently 4 ohms. When running speaker wire for long distances, you'll get loss from the resistance in the wiring to the speakers. I frequently set up long speaker lines at car shows, and still use 8 ohms, but if the loss were more critical you might want to go with 16 ohms -- and find speakers to match. Aside from these extremes, the best all-around is 8 ohms. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "xrongor" wrote in message news:dcg73e$dcdv$1@news3.infoave.net... >i just thought i would toss this out as a theoretical case for >discussion... > > given that i have an amp which has several taps on the output transformer, > allowing a selection of 4,8, and 16 ohms (amongst others). and i want to > buy a speaker. and that particular speaker can be found in 4,8, and 16 > ohm flavors. same speaker, just different impedances... > > now i know its best to match impedances, i.e. if i configure the amp for 4 > ohms, i should use a 4 ohm speaker.... > > but is there any 'best match'? if you can choose the impedance, is there > any reason to choose 16 vs 8 vs 4 ohms? > > my gut feeling is that a higher impedance is better, but i cant give any > particularly good reason why. > > all comments welcome. > > thx > randy > Article: 319981 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: Subject: Re: Antique radio used to speak with spirits Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 10:58:34 -0500 "Buck Frobisher" wrote in message news:KtzGe.6803$q23.1177526@news20.bellglobal.com... > Brother! What a story! Mind you, her feedback makes for good bedtime > reading as well... I like how one potential buyer asked "Do you think it has any bad Karma on it?" LOL!!!!! These type of people crack me up. It's like they can't help themselves. Should I or shouldn't I buy it? This thing has spiritual powers! but if I buy it! It may bring me bad luck! Gee Wizz! -- 73 and good DX. B.H. Brian's Radio Universe http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm Article: 319982 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: 'best match' of impedance? Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 10:22:03 -0600 Message-ID: References: let me clarify a bit... i realize for a given situation, your impedance selection may be dictated by external factors. for the purpose of this discussion, im trying to eliminate all of them except impedance. im trying to isolate impedance as a factor of sound quality. so for a moment, lets just pretend that all other things are equal. the speaker wire length, voltage source, whatever else, will be dictated by the best sound for a given speakers impedance of 4,8,or 16 ohms. to give you a specific example, the one we were discussing last night... lets say you are making a guitar amp/speaker combo unit. you already have an amp and its a simple matter of switching a lug once to change impedance. you are going to buy a speaker and can set the impedance as you like given 4,8 and 16 ohm taps. you can adjust the wire length as you like. its powered by a standard 110 outlet. what you desire is the best sound. is one any better than any other or does it really matter as long as you match impedance? randy "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:doNGe.313$ns.87@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net... > I'm assuming this is a home unit. Most home speakers are 8 ohms; so why > change it? If you happen to do things like connecting two speakers to > each output, move the tap to 4 ohms. Otherwise keep it at 8. > > There are a couple of reason why you might want to change the speaker > impedance. In automobiles where you have only 12 volts to work with, you > only get about 6 watts RMS into 4 ohms. You can bridge amps together, as > with many modern stereos, but in all cases you get a lot more power when > using 4 ohms as opposed to 8. Also 2 ohms, assuming the amp is designed > for it, can allow for even more power, but the "standard" is presently 4 > ohms. > > When running speaker wire for long distances, you'll get loss from the > resistance in the wiring to the speakers. I frequently set up long > speaker lines at car shows, and still use 8 ohms, but if the loss were > more critical you might want to go with 16 ohms -- and find speakers to > match. > > Aside from these extremes, the best all-around is 8 ohms. > > > -- > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > > "xrongor" wrote in message > news:dcg73e$dcdv$1@news3.infoave.net... >>i just thought i would toss this out as a theoretical case for >>discussion... >> >> given that i have an amp which has several taps on the output >> transformer, allowing a selection of 4,8, and 16 ohms (amongst others). >> and i want to buy a speaker. and that particular speaker can be found in >> 4,8, and 16 ohm flavors. same speaker, just different impedances... >> >> now i know its best to match impedances, i.e. if i configure the amp for >> 4 ohms, i should use a 4 ohm speaker.... >> >> but is there any 'best match'? if you can choose the impedance, is there >> any reason to choose 16 vs 8 vs 4 ohms? >> >> my gut feeling is that a higher impedance is better, but i cant give any >> particularly good reason why. >> >> all comments welcome. >> >> thx >> randy >> > > Article: 319983 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 10:24:49 -0600 Message-ID: <8748-42EBA9D1-219@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> References: Me ... i am vintage and my eye tubes are getting a bit off focus but i still do ok . Article: 319984 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: <35341$42e7b743$4232bd40$30118@COQUI.NET> <5qWdnZK8YeresHXfRVn-hg@comcast.com> <226be$42eb73f9$4232bd6a$16144@COQUI.NET> Subject: Re: PayPal Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 12:09:57 -0500 "-ex-" wrote in message news:226be$42eb73f9$4232bd6a$16144@COQUI.NET... > William Sommerwerck wrote: > > >> >> You're forgetting that there /is/ no "market". Is there an alternative to >> PayPal? If there is, I'd like to know about it. >> > Well, there's BidPay which can go directly into the seller's account with > no fees to the seller but 2.95 and up to the buyer. > > There is/was c2it, Citibank's venture into the market. > > Then there's schlepping somewhere to buy a money order or cashier's check > and mailing it. Fees vary. > > Then there's a bank-to-bank wire transfer which at my bank is $20 for > outgoing and $10 for incoming. > > There's Western Union and Moneygram where the seller can go pick up his > payment at a supermarket on the other side of town. > > Then there's the mailing cash option. Should you choose to register the > mail for assurance, that service can be purchased for a few bucks. > > There's UPS COD service. > > You can haggle with fresh eggs or farm animals. > > Of course there are alternatives. None of them are particularly good. > > > -Bill Well Bill, I think this horse is dead. Time to find another. lol -- 73 and good DX. B.H. Brian's Radio Universe http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm Article: 319985 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jon" Subject: Antenna in the attic Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 17:29:27 GMT Since my new workshop is in the basement, I'm thinking of stringing a wire >from one end of the attic (unfinished) to the other end to use as an antenna. I was thinking of using RG-6u to reach the attic from my workshop, about a 50' run. The antenna will be about 35' long. My questions: 1. Should I ground the coax shield at the attic or basement? 2. Is 50' of coax too long of a run for a 35' antenna? 3. Should I connect to the end of the antenna wire or the middle with the coax? 4. There is romex running along the ridge of my attic for lights, how far away do I have to be from it so that it won't affect my reception? -- Jon Scaptura Endicott, NY See my antique radios here: http://www.scaptura.com/radio/gallery/Antique_radios From adouglasatgis.net Sun Aug 7 01:24:07 EDT 2005 Article: 319986 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 13:09:15 -0400 Organization: http://newsguy.com Lines: 12 Message-ID: References: <8748-42EBA9D1-219@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: p-725.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!pln-e!spln!rex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news2 Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:319986 Hi, There have been a lot of discussions in the Forum on this subject over the past year or two. Probably the easiest way to find them is to use Google's "Advanced Search" and specify the antiqueradios.com domain. But the "test equipment" section is small enough that you could list all the thread titles for the past couple of years and simply click on the ones of interest. The only topic you'll find unmanageable is the tube tester discussions, because there are so may of them, and everyone has his own idea of "best." Actually your 747 and Precision make a pretty good combo. 73, Alan Article: 319987 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42EBBD1F.61962936@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: 'best match' of impedance? References: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 17:47:40 GMT xrongor wrote: > > i just thought i would toss this out as a theoretical case for discussion... > > given that i have an amp which has several taps on the output transformer, > allowing a selection of 4,8, and 16 ohms (amongst others). and i want to > buy a speaker. and that particular speaker can be found in 4,8, and 16 ohm > flavors. same speaker, just different impedances... > > now i know its best to match impedances, i.e. if i configure the amp for 4 > ohms, i should use a 4 ohm speaker.... > > but is there any 'best match'? if you can choose the impedance, is there > any reason to choose 16 vs 8 vs 4 ohms? > > my gut feeling is that a higher impedance is better, but i cant give any > particularly good reason why. > > all comments welcome. > > thx > randy For a given source impedance, the higher the load impedance, the lower the current flow, so a 16 ohm speaker on a 8 or 4 ohm output will not give you the rated output power. remember that you don't want to run tube amps very hard into a bad match or you can damage the tube, or tubes. When you play the constant voltage game, you run the amp at reduced power, unless the total wattage of the load is close to the rating for the amp. For instance, the 25 volt school intercoms use a small amp for the intercom function to improve matching, rather than one of the high power amps used for paging or emergency use. -- Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted after threats were telephoned to my church. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 319988 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: Yuck !!! Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 11:49:42 -0600 Message-ID: Just came from an auction where they had "over 25 old wood cased radio's to sell as a single lot". I got there, took one look...and left. I have never seen such a bigger mess in my life. The building they were stored in had been "infested" by the owners cats. All the radio's stank to high heaven with cat urine, there was cat poop all over them and the cabinets had been used for scratching posts. I would like to buy a "lot" of radio's....but believe me...this wasn't the "lot" I was looking for. None of them were exceptional anyhow...I wouldn't even buy them for parts sets. Ben Article: 319989 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: PayPal Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 10:46:22 -0700 Message-ID: References: <8s6dnVxsFKkYw3bfRVn-rA@comcast.com> William Sommerwerck wrote: >>That's only slightly higher than you would pay through a credit card >>merchant account. Merchant accounts charge a one time fee and a minimum >>monthly use fee on top of a SLIGHTLY lower percentage. PayPal provides >>a very reasonable service for a very reasonable percentage for those who >>can't make the total $ amount per month to make a merchant account >>viable. > > > Slightly lower? I believe merchant accounts run 1% to 1.5%. CMIIW. > > That ain't the whole story. There is a monthly minimum that has to factored in; i.e. they hit you for a minimum fee per month whether you use the merchant account to accept cards that month or not. Most of them have fairly stiff set-up fees as well. These costs are real and have to factored into the equation if you are dealing with a small number of transactions and low dollar amounts. The big guys can amortize some of the charges over thousands of transactions, so it makes more sense from a financial standpoint. I've done the numbers, and a merchant account under the best scenario comes out as being about 20%-30% more expensive than Paypal until you hit a dollar amount that is pretty awesome (over $10K per month). My original point still stands, though. The change in eBay policy is forcing some sellers who accept Paypal to take on essentially the same (or greater) risks as those who use merchant accounts, when they didn't have to before. This "buyers are confused" line of bull that they are trying to float is nothing but sugar-coated doublespeak. If eBay really wanted to stop people from using the "free" personal accounts to conduct business, it wouldn't be that hard-all they would have to do is either eliminate them entirely or ban them for the purpose of conducting eBay business. Why force people to accept a financial instrument they don't want to accept just to get a service they do want? BTW, It appears that Paypal may not have this market all to itself too much longer (AFT if true): http://www.iht.com/articles/2005/06/20/business/google.php Google is a formidable competitor....Enormously profitable, tons of money in the bank, and they have OWNED everyone they've taken on so far. I don't think eBay could ban a Google pay service from being used on their auction system without the DOJ anti-trust nazis stomping on their toes....... -Scott Article: 319990 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42EBC544.D906F153@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment References: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 18:22:25 GMT Gary Tayman wrote: > > Okay, I'm sure this is bound to get a thread going, and maybe even start a > flame or two -- but for my own benefit, plus that of others on the group who > might be afraid to ask . . . > > What do you consider to be the best test equipment, either new or vintage, > for working on our older equipment? > > As mentioned in an earlier thread, I was looking at a few multimeters on > eBay, and ended up purchasing a Simpson digital bench meter. I happen to > have a B&K 2831 that's old and worn out. It gets rather flaky when I press > buttons to change function. I recently opened it up to clean the switches, > and now it doesn't work at all Maybe the B&K is a good one, I don't know, > but I'd rather buy one in better condition than mess with this one anymore. > > This weekend I'll be cleaning/rearranging my bench. I'm looking at the > other "stuff" I have, and wondering if there's anything better out there I > should look for. I want reliable, easy to use, relatively small, and > relatively accurate. I'm not looking for $87,000.00 Tektronix lab equipment > that's the equivalent to buying a Rolls Royce to drive your kids to > school -- just reasonable good quality equipment. > > Here are some things I'm considering: > > I've got an RCA Sr. VoltOhmist that's a wonderful VTVM, but it is old and I > think the RX1 Ohms scale is off. I've got the lit, and it's probably worth > finding and fixing what is probably a bad resistor, but I'm curious as to > what others "swear by" in this category. I noticed some B&K VTVM's on eBay; > I remember those from school daze and as I recall they're nice -- but what > do others think? B&K or Heathkit VTVMs were used in almost every TV shop I've ever been in. They were affordable, reliable and accurate enough for service work. > I've got a Heathkit IP-17 variable voltage power supply, and a Heathkit > IG-5218 Sine/Square Audio Generator. These are here to stay, but I'm > curious as to where they rank on the food chain. As long as they do what you need and don't appear to be falling apart, I would keep them on the bench. > I have a Heathkit IM-4100 Frequency Counter. It's not that old in the > scheme of things, but they've come a long way since I put this one together. > It only goes up to 30 mHz, and that's probably all I need, but it's, well, > not the best and it's a little flaky. Any suggestions? I like the old H-P 5245L counters. They are fairly cheap, have good specs, and are still a good piece of test equipment. they go to 50 MHz without a plugin, and up to 13 GHz with the right plugin. On the other hand, if you start repairing OEM FM radios, you really need a counter that works to 150 MHz or more to troubleshoot front-end problems. > I have a Heathkit IG-102 RF Signal Generator. It's an oldie, for sure, but > it works. Seems to me those Eico generators weren't bad for what they were, > but what do y'all consider a good one? A little overkill, but the HP-8640 would cover the AM and FM frequencies, has a built in frequency display and is available at a good price in a lot of places. > Signal tracers: I've got an old tried-and-true Eico 147 that works as well > as the day I bought it (used). I've also got a newer Eico solid state > version. I'm torn between them. The newer one is smaller and doesn't need > to warm up every time I turn it on, but the 147, well, there's just > something about it. Plus I've only got one demodulator probe between them, > the one that came with the 147. Comments? Extra probes? Probes are not hard to make, and it never hurts to have a spare on the shelf as cheap insurance. > Capacitance Bridge. Eico 950B. Something about Eico, they're cheap, they > work, and there's no BS. I've got some handheld devices that check caps, > but don't do the leak tests like this one. The only thing I don't like > about it is that it's big, and doesn't fit on the bench with all the other > stuff. Still, it works, what can you say? Ideas? I use a digital meter to check caps, and I have the Dick Smith ESR meter as well. I lost my Sprague TO-6 capacitor analyzer that I used to test for leakage, but you can build a simple test fixture for that test with a variable high voltage power supply, some resistors, diodes and one of your voltmeters. > I've also got a couple tube testers, a B&K 747 and an older Precision model > that tests the older tubes that the 747 doesn't do. Around here I hear the > name Hickok a lot, there's a 539 and a 6000. Is one better than the other, > or newer? These things are also floating around on eBay, if it's worth it I > may spring for one. Do they teat all the tubes you run into? If so, you're pretty well set. > Oscilloscope: Yes I have a (cringe) Hewlett-Packard dual trace 100mHz. I > like it; everybody else hates HP's. I don't use it much and it works for > me, so please concentrate your comments on the other stuff. :-) the problem with H-P scopes is triggering on a narrow pulse. You are working with sine waves, so it won't bother you. You could use a little more bandwidth for FM, but a decent homebrew FET probe would let you work in a FM front end without detuning it. Comical FET probes are usually out of the question because the manufacturers want you to think that they are hand carved out of solid gold bars and wired with hand drawn platinum wire. ;-) > Yes, it's a long message, and sure to get replies. Still, I'm open for > comments as to how to improve this bench -- and yes, I might need to replace > the bench itself. Gary, a local "Habitat for Humanity" thrift store had a three foot high stack of 4' * 8' sheets of particle board with black Formica on one side for $5 a sheet the other day. I am trying to borrow a big trailer to pick up five sheets to make new tops for a couple benches, and to build a large computer desk that will hold up to seven complete computer systems at the same time to make repairing them for my veterans program a lot easier. The design is "U" shaped with one fixed station at the end and three work stations down each side so I can spin my chair around and roll back and forth while I work on them. > -- > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > http://www.taymanelectrical.com -- Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted after threats were telephoned to my church. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 319991 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: PHILCO 37-604 Dial lamp Question Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 14:55:11 -0400 If someone out there has one of these, I'd like to know how effective the 'Glowing Beam Indicator' is that indicates tuning. In normal room light I can hardly see the beam, even when I put a full 6vac on the #47 bulb. I'm using a new Rock-Sea dial scale, but the orig is just as bad or worse. Is this normal for this set? BTW, there's one on eBay now. Ken Article: 319992 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: <1122748267.807181.115520@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Yuck !!! Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 14:12:11 -0500 wrote in message news:1122748267.807181.115520@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... >I wonder how those radios will turn up description wise on Ebay? How > about "stored carefully but forgotten" or "our dear departed kitty > loved this radio?" You know they'll end up there. > Hey Ben what town are they in so if they turn up on Ebay we can keep track of the natorious cat shit radios. Or try to? ;) -- 73 and good DX. B.H. Brian's Radio Universe http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm Article: 319993 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mike Schultz" References: <1122748267.807181.115520@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Yuck !!! Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 20:36:23 GMT I recall seeing an old set on eBay with a very large and obvious mouse nest inside made of some fluffy white stuff. The lady who listed it turned the problem into an asset by saying the radio was complete with its "original insulation". I wonder how this creative seller would describe cat excrement? -- Mike Schultz wrote in message news:1122748267.807181.115520@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... >I wonder how those radios will turn up description wise on Ebay? How > about "stored carefully but forgotten" or "our dear departed kitty > loved this radio?" You know they'll end up there. > Article: 319994 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Yuck !!! References: <1122748267.807181.115520@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 20:43:55 GMT Mike Schultz wrote: > I wonder how this creative seller would describe cat > excrement? "Vitamine S Kitty Bon bon treats for your Dog." Jeff -- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin "A life lived in fear is a life half lived." Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom" Article: 319995 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42EBE769.30108@socal.rr.com> From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: A different signal tracer Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 20:49:00 GMT I recently bought this on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7528307836 The schematic for it was available on BAMA. ftp://bama.sbc.edu/downloads/nri/ Now, to look at it, you would assume, as I did, "Oh boy, it has a built in signal generator!" Nope. That's a 4 band TRF receiver. The Audio probe works as expected. Touch probe, listen to the buzz. The RF probe, on the other hand, is really the signal input to a two stage tuned RF receiver. The Audio pre-amp tube also has a pair of diodes in it as an AM detector. A nice quite afternoon project re-capping it and putting an IEEC power connector on the back, and now I have yet another vintage, but usuable, piece of test equipment for the shop. I think I'll take it into work and amaze people by using it to test Motorola GP300 Hand helds. It works quite well on narrow band FM as a slope detector. Think of it as one of the original "Service Monitors." Jeff -- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin "A life lived in fear is a life half lived." Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom" Article: 319996 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Henry Kolesnik" Subject: Sony LVO 7000 ?? Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:04:37 GMT I've found several Sony LVO 7000 3/4" video tape machines in storage, supposedly new and still in its vinyl wrap. I can't find much googling. Do these things have any value? tnx -- 73 Hank WD5JFR Article: 319997 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DaveW Subject: Re: PayPal References: <35341$42e7b743$4232bd40$30118@COQUI.NET> <5qWdnZK8YeresHXfRVn-hg@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:33:00 GMT William Sommerwerck wrote: >>>No, it's called a market economy. And I see little distinction between >>>charging what you like and what the market will bear. > > >>Okay, here's an example. I'd like to get $2,000 for a pair of used 6V6G >>tubes. But the market will only bear $10. > > > > > You're forgetting that there /is/ no "market". Is there an alternative to > PayPal? If there is, I'd like to know about it. > > Well, there's bidpay (or their used to be anyway). There's a real merchant account, which a lot of Ebay sellers use. There are checks, money orders, cash in the mail, egold if they are still around. There are even alternative auction sites. There's no exact alternative, but if there was money to be made competing, someone would get into the act. But the dissatisfaction with Paypal fees and policies doesn't appear great enough for anyone else to bother trying. You don't have to use the Post Office, either, but FedEx is a mighty expensive alternative. Regards, DAve Article: 319998 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: newbieguy Subject: Philco 52 - 940, worth restoring? Message-ID: <95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com> Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 22:06:22 GMT I am about to come in possesion of a Philco 52-940 AM radio that was originally my grandparents. My mom says it still works but has a hum and seems very prone to appliance and other interferance (I assume she means worse then normal for am). Was this a nice radio in it's time compared to what was out there? Is it worth/easily restorable? It would be nice to get it in fine working order as it would have sentimental value to me. I recall hearing it many years ago and I thought it had a nice sound, probably due to the big speaker compared to today's tabletop radios. Article: 319999 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ron in Radio Heaven Subject: Radio collector Dick Desjarlais makes the paper Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 22:20:14 GMT Radio collector Dick Desjarlais makes the paper. http://www2.townonline.com/littleton/localRegional/view.bg?articleid=292842 It's a nice write-up. Ron Article: 320000 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" Subject: SWEET!!!! Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 17:30:12 -0500 Ahh!! Its so refreshing to see a quality finish job. http://cgi.ebay.com/Chic-Not-Shabby-Vintage-Look-HP-Radio-SOOO-PRETTY_W0QQitemZ6548450077QQcategoryZ932QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- 73 and good DX. B.H. Brian's Radio Universe http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm Article: 320001 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <42EBE769.30108@socal.rr.com> Subject: Re: A different signal tracer Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 18:31:01 -0400 "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message news:42EBE769.30108@socal.rr.com... > I recently bought this on eBay. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7528307836 > > The schematic for it was available on BAMA. > ftp://bama.sbc.edu/downloads/nri/ > > Now, to look at it, you would assume, as I did, "Oh boy, it > has a built in signal generator!" > > Nope. That's a 4 band TRF receiver. > > The Audio probe works as expected. Touch probe, listen to > the buzz. > > The RF probe, on the other hand, is really the signal input > to a two stage tuned RF receiver. The Audio pre-amp tube > also has a pair of diodes in it as an AM detector. > > A nice quite afternoon project re-capping it and putting an > IEEC power connector on the back, and now I have yet another > vintage, but usuable, piece of test equipment for the shop. > > I think I'll take it into work and amaze people by using it > to test Motorola GP300 Hand helds. It works quite well on > narrow band FM as a slope detector. > > Think of it as one of the original "Service Monitors." > > Jeff > > Hey Jeff! Someone posted a link to a similar unit a few months back. I haven't seen many tracers that had tunable preselection; and I think it is a neat feature! That's a sharp looking unit, and a real boatanchor for the test bench. I bought a Hickok Indicating Trace-o-meter from Alan D., a bit larger and fancier, it uses meters instead of eye tubes. Pete Article: 320002 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: PayPal Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 07:43:16 +0900 Message-ID: References: <35341$42e7b743$4232bd40$30118@COQUI.NET> <5qWdnZK8YeresHXfRVn-hg@comcast.com> "DaveW" wrote in message news:gmSGe.2957$Bx5.2448@trnddc09... > William Sommerwerck wrote: > >>>No, it's called a market economy. And I see little distinction between > >>>charging what you like and what the market will bear. > > > > > >>Okay, here's an example. I'd like to get $2,000 for a pair of used 6V6G > >>tubes. But the market will only bear $10. > > > > > > > > > > You're forgetting that there /is/ no "market". Is there an alternative to > > PayPal? If there is, I'd like to know about it. > > > > > > Well, there's bidpay (or their used to be anyway). There's a real > merchant account, which a lot of Ebay sellers use. There are checks, > money orders, cash in the mail, egold if they are still around. There > are even alternative auction sites. There's no exact alternative, but if > there was money to be made competing, someone would get into the act. > But the dissatisfaction with Paypal fees and policies doesn't appear > great enough for anyone else to bother trying. > There's $%@@&^! Hyperwallet.... but if you think PayPal is bad, don't even think about those guys.. takes an act of God to get your money out of them.. Article: 320003 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Sony LVO 7000 ?? Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 07:48:05 +0900 Message-ID: References: "Henry Kolesnik" wrote in message news:FXRGe.2901$PC7.1621@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net... > I've found several Sony LVO 7000 3/4" video tape machines in storage, > supposedly new and still in its vinyl wrap. I can't find much googling. Do > these things have any value? > tnx > Last I saw anything like that, it was going for around $50. They'll be just about totally worthless in the next 3 years. Article: 320004 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 18:58:40 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment References: Message-ID: Gary Tayman wrote: > > Yes, it's a long message, and sure to get replies. Still, I'm open for > comments as to how to improve this bench -- and yes, I might need to replace > the bench itself. > Gary, since you do a lot of monkeying with the LC stuff in car radios I'm surprised you didn't mention an LC meter like the AADE one. I like messing around with homebrew stuff and its a real treat...not a necessity, of course, but certainly worth having around when you're re-engineering tuned circuits. -Bill Article: 320005 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Janssen Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic References: Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 23:14:35 GMT This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------090607070908020400050704 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit gb wrote: >"Jon" wrote in message >news:XNOGe.656$0m1.623@twister.nyroc.rr.com... > > >>Since my new workshop is in the basement, I'm thinking of stringing a wire >>from one end of the attic (unfinished) to the other end to use as an >>antenna. I was thinking of using RG-6/U (72 ohm) to reach the attic from >>my workshop, about a 50' run. The antenna will be about 35' long. >> >> > >Dipole with total length of 35 feet? >A dipole of that length is resonant at the 10 meter band (28 - 30 MHz). >Standard dipole impedance is 72 ohms (so RG-6/U is a good match. >Are you suing this antenna just to receive (not transmit)? ... what >frequencies are you wanting to receiver? directional or omni-directional? > > 35 feet would be 1/2 wave at the resonant frequency or closer to 20 meter wave length. Bill K7NOM >IF you desire this for FM broadcast band -- then shortening the antenna >would be better - or build a folder dipole (300 ohms) and then use a 300 / >75 ohm balun at your center feedpoint. Also a goof FM yagi would fit that >space - as well. > > > >>My questions: >> >>1. Should I ground the coax shield at the attic or basement? >> >> > >I would ground the shield at that basement -- closer to your ground (ground >rod, etc.). > > > >>2. Is 50' of coax too long of a run for a 35' antenna? >> >> > >No, not really. Good dual or quad shielded RG-6/U has low loss >characteristics. > > > >>3. Should I connect to the end of the antenna wire or the middle with the >>coax? >> >> > >Center of antenna -- Dipole (read above). The center insulator is easy to >build. > > > >>4. There is Romex running along the ridge of my attic for lights, how far >>away do I have to be from it so that it won't affect my reception? >> >> > >Ideally you really want to be perpendicular to that cable run. If it is >truly at the ridge of the attic --- I would move down one side of the attic >wall (underside of roof) at least 2 feet. That should be sufficient -- same >distance as stud spacing between low voltage and electrical wiring runs in >most homes. > > >>-- >>Jon Scaptura >>Endicott, NY >> >>See my antique radios here: >>http://www.scaptura.com/radio/gallery/Antique_radios >> >> > > > > --------------090607070908020400050704 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit gb wrote:
"Jon" <jon@NOscapturaSPAM.com> wrote in message 
news:XNOGe.656$0m1.623@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
  
Since my new workshop is in the basement, I'm thinking of stringing a wire 
>from one end of the attic (unfinished) to the other end to use as an 
antenna. I was thinking of using RG-6/U (72 ohm) to reach the attic from 
my workshop, about a 50' run. The antenna will be about 35'  long.
    

Dipole with total length of 35 feet?
A dipole of that length is resonant at the 10 meter band (28 - 30 MHz).
Standard dipole impedance is 72 ohms (so RG-6/U is a good match.
Are you suing this antenna just to receive (not transmit)? ... what 
frequencies are you wanting to receiver?  directional or omni-directional?
  
35 feet would be 1/2 wave at the resonant frequency or closer to 20 meter wave length.

Bill K7NOM
IF you desire this for FM broadcast band -- then shortening the antenna 
would be better - or build a folder dipole (300 ohms) and then use a 300 / 
75 ohm balun at your center feedpoint.  Also a goof FM yagi would fit that 
space - as well.

  
My questions:

1. Should I ground the coax shield at the attic or basement?
    

I would ground the shield at that basement -- closer to your ground (ground 
rod, etc.).

  
2. Is 50' of coax too long of a run for a 35' antenna?
    

No, not really.  Good dual or quad shielded RG-6/U has low loss 
characteristics.

  
3. Should I connect to the end of the antenna wire or the middle with the 
coax?
    

Center of antenna -- Dipole (read above).  The center insulator is easy to 
build.

  
4. There is Romex running along the ridge of my attic for lights, how far 
away do I have to be from it so that it won't affect my reception?
    

Ideally you really want to be perpendicular to that cable run.  If it is 
truly at the ridge of the attic --- I would move down one side of the attic 
wall (underside of roof) at least 2 feet.  That should be sufficient -- same 
distance as stud spacing between low voltage and electrical wiring runs in 
most homes.
  
-- 
Jon Scaptura
Endicott, NY

See my antique radios here:
http://www.scaptura.com/radio/gallery/Antique_radios
    


  

--------------090607070908020400050704-- Article: 320006 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42EC0BDE.FEF3F2B@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: 'best match' of impedance? References: <42EBBD1F.61962936@earthlink.net> <5d-dnSPEUdCwnnHfRVn-tA@comcast.com> Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 23:23:42 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > > Mike, 25v is obsolete for distro speaker systems, 70v replaced it in the > 60's. > > BTW... anyone here know why 70v??? > > ANSWER: 70v is the RMS of 100v peak, which is what the electrical code > says is max for "unprotected wiring" in a commercial building (ie, speaker > wire, doorbell, etc) so it doesnt require conduit... a greater expense. > > Mark Oppat Mark, I serviced school intercoms for a living till the mid '80s and they were still required to use 25 volt wiring by code. I had to use conduit and bolt down speakers that were used on 70 volt systems. They had to be mounted high enough that you had to have a ladder to work on them, or they didn't pass state and county inspection, not to mention OSHA's inspection. Most of the systems were paid for by the state when a new school was built, and they set the specifications based on the NEC. If you visit the Dukane website you will find they still use 25 volt wiring in their school products. The only places I used 70 volt wiring was in factories where it was easy to run the EMT, since PVC conduit wasn't allowed. I did this work >from h '60s through the '80s as my main income. Three school systems, dozens of factories and churches under contract along with a bunch of restaurants and night clubs. -- Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted after threats were telephoned to my church. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 320007 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: PHILCO 37-604 Dial lamp Question References: <2oGdne6aKcO8nXHfRVn-ow@comcast.com> Message-ID: <50UGe.288$ah4.259@lakeread05> Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 19:25:47 -0400 Mark, have you ever seen one of these sets in operation? If so, how well could you see the vertical beam? The repro is good, but the beam gets washed out by the surrounding light coming through the original opaque filter with the slots. Trouble is, that light is needed to see the station frequency in a dark room. I have a feeling this was not a great tuning scheme in it's day, I can't see any way to improve it in it's present state. Ken Mark Oppat wrote: > The repro dials I sell are the original Clint Blais repros, which allow the > correct amount of light to pass thru. The original dials sometimes fade > quite bit. I will bet you would like my repros! > > You are can use a #44 dial for greater brightness... but a 47 should work. > > Mark Oppat > Antique Audio > > "Ken" wrote in message news:t2QGe.283$ah4.109@lakeread05... > >>If someone out there has one of these, I'd like to know how effective >>the 'Glowing Beam Indicator' is that indicates tuning. In normal room >>light I can hardly see the beam, even when I put a full 6vac on the #47 >>bulb. I'm using a new Rock-Sea dial scale, but the orig is just as bad >>or worse. Is this normal for this set? BTW, there's one on eBay now. Ken >> >> > > > > Article: 320008 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jon" References: Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 23:39:35 GMT "gb" wrote in message news:QMOdnScondwUmHHfRVn-qQ@comcast.com... > "Jon" wrote in message > news:XNOGe.656$0m1.623@twister.nyroc.rr.com... >> > > Dipole with total length of 35 feet? > A dipole of that length is resonant at the 10 meter band (28 - 30 MHz). > Standard dipole impedance is 72 ohms (so RG-6/U is a good match. > Are you suing this antenna just to receive (not transmit)? ... what > frequencies are you wanting to receiver? directional or omni-directional? My attic is 35' end to end, so if it were a solid piece of wire, it would be 35' minus the insulator length. I'm mainly looking for generic BC and SW reception on the radio I am working on at the time. > > IF you desire this for FM broadcast band -- then shortening the antenna > would be better - or build a folder dipole (300 ohms) and then use a 300 / > 75 ohm balun at your center feedpoint. Also a goof FM yagi would fit that > space - as well. > I have a VHF antenna in my garage attic already, but it's not connected. I just bought the house - so I haven't had time to look at it closely. It is aimed, along with a set of UHF antennas, in the direction of most of the local TV and FM sticks. I noticed that it has a 300 ohm lead coiled up with it in the rafters. Would it be better for me to put a matching transformer up there and bring the signals in via coax - 1 for UHF and 1 for VHF, or pehaps combined into a single coax lead, or bring it in on the 300 ohm lead with the transformer on the set? >> 3. Should I connect to the end of the antenna wire or the middle with the >> coax? > > Center of antenna -- Dipole (read above). The center insulator is easy to > build. > Can you point me towards a plan or diagram on the optimal setup? Thanks again, -- Jon Scaptura Endicott, NY See my antique radios here: http://www.scaptura.com/radio/gallery/Antique_radios Article: 320009 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Tom Biasi" References: <95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com> Subject: Re: Philco 52 - 940, worth restoring? Message-ID: <4lUGe.6352$_R1.1218@fe11.lga> Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 19:48:32 -0400 "newbieguy" wrote in message news:95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com... >I am about to come in possesion of a Philco 52-940 AM radio that was > originally my grandparents. My mom says it still works but has a hum > and seems very prone to appliance and other interferance (I assume she > means worse then normal for am). Was this a nice radio in it's time > compared to what was out there? Is it worth/easily restorable? It > would be nice to get it in fine working order as it would have > sentimental value to me. I recall hearing it many years ago and I > thought it had a nice sound, probably due to the big speaker compared > to today's tabletop radios. I agree with GB. It was your Grandparents! Fix it up and keep it as a family piece. That model is not that hard to get in top shape. The dial faces up so it may have some wear but it can be done. The electronics should be no problem. Tom Article: 320010 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 00:01:56 GMT Brian Hill wrote: > Ahh!! Its so refreshing to see a quality finish job. Other than obviously NOT the original color scheme, it's a nice job. Jeff -- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin "A life lived in fear is a life half lived." Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom" Article: 320011 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: A different signal tracer References: <42EBE769.30108@socal.rr.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 00:06:38 GMT Uncle Peter wrote: > Hey Jeff! > > Someone posted a link to a similar unit a few months back. > I haven't seen many tracers that had tunable preselection; > and I think it is a neat feature! That's a sharp looking unit, > and a real boatanchor for the test bench. Yeah, it was one of the dreaded evil eBay teasers that show up here. It worked. I bought it. Parcel post misplaced it for almost 4 weeks before it showed up in the mail. > I bought a Hickok Indicating Trace-o-meter from Alan D., > a bit larger and fancier, it uses meters instead of eye > tubes. Those are nice. especially when it comes to the "Mine is bigger than yours" factor on the test bench. ;-) Jeff -- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin "A life lived in fear is a life half lived." Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom" Article: 320012 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 19:11:16 -0500 "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message news:UxUGe.33659$aA5.2544@tornado.socal.rr.com... > > > Brian Hill wrote: > >> Ahh!! Its so refreshing to see a quality finish job. > > Other than obviously NOT the original color scheme, > it's a nice job. > > Jeff It is perty aint it? lol Article: 320013 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 00:22:44 GMT Brian Hill wrote: > "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote: >> >>Other than obviously NOT the original color scheme, >>it's a nice job. > > It is perty aint it? lol My point exactly. It's NOT like that kitchen table AA5 that had the plaid contact paper and pictures of chickens cut out of a magazine glued to it. Jeff -- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin "A life lived in fear is a life half lived." Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom" Article: 320014 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 19:35:58 -0500 "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message news:oRUGe.33661$aA5.30289@tornado.socal.rr.com... > > > Brian Hill wrote: >> "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote: >>> >>>Other than obviously NOT the original color scheme, >>>it's a nice job. >> >> It is perty aint it? lol > > My point exactly. It's NOT like that kitchen table AA5 > that had the plaid contact paper and pictures of chickens > cut out of a magazine glued to it. > > Jeff Yea the chicken one was a real disaster. Hey check this one out Jeff. Your gonna love it. http://cgi.ebay.com/Unique-Vintage-Folk-Radio-Outsider-Art_W0QQitemZ6548937638QQcategoryZ933QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- 73 and good DX. B.H. Brian's Radio Universe http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm Article: 320015 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: newbieguy Subject: Re: Philco 52 - 940, worth restoring? Message-ID: References: <95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com> <4lUGe.6352$_R1.1218@fe11.lga> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 00:38:44 GMT Thanks guys. There is a local shop that I believe does restorations. I'll have to get a price quote. If under a hundred then I may let them do it. I work in electronics and not afraid to use a soldering iron so I suppose I could do it myself when I find out what has to be done (you can buy new tubes for the radio?). Also I was looking at a manual I found for it and they talk about adjusting either trim caps or pots. If I do myself I don't have the equipment such as a signal generator or whatever else is required, I could only replace parts. Also what makes me nervous is that I've read horror stories of the chassis becoming live in plugged in backwards. I assume these radios don't have one prong wider then the other. I would like to prevent any chance of that happening. Cosmetically I believe the unit is in good condition. Ma says grampa used to pound his fist and swear up and down as he listened to the Red Sox in the 50s and 60s with that radio. I'm curious of how it stacks up with other's in it's class. I've read the better ones have an isolation transformer. On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 19:48:32 -0400, "Tom Biasi" wrote: > >"newbieguy" wrote in message >news:95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com... >>I am about to come in possesion of a Philco 52-940 AM radio that was >> originally my grandparents. My mom says it still works but has a hum >> and seems very prone to appliance and other interferance (I assume she >> means worse then normal for am). Was this a nice radio in it's time >> compared to what was out there? Is it worth/easily restorable? It >> would be nice to get it in fine working order as it would have >> sentimental value to me. I recall hearing it many years ago and I >> thought it had a nice sound, probably due to the big speaker compared >> to today's tabletop radios. > >I agree with GB. >It was your Grandparents! >Fix it up and keep it as a family piece. That model is not that hard to get >in top shape. The dial faces up so it may have some wear but it can be done. >The electronics should be no problem. >Tom > Article: 320016 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: Re: my sick kitty....help! Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 18:52:14 -0600 Message-ID: References: > This all seemed to come on suddenly. We were out for 4 days and left them > food and water as we have in the past, with no problems. This cat likes > to > drink from the bathroom faucet, sometimes several times a day, like > whenever either of us go in there she'll ask for the water on a little. > Could our abscence have kept her from drinking and started this??? > > So, my question is... any cat owners in our group here that have had this > condition, and what can you tell us??? > I have looked at several websites with no great ideas... > > > Mark Oppat (and Leann...) Mark (and Leann), My wife and I have had the same cat for over 18 years now. I remember once...about 10 years ago...that would have made the cat 8 then...she got sick as a dog (no pun intended). She wouldn't eat...got skinny as hell...looked like death warmed over...laid around, and was limp as a dish rag when you picked her up. We took her to the vet. After almost 1,000 bucks of work on her...the vet couldn't find a damn thing wrong, so he said...just let her die. We took her home...pampered her and waited for the end. It didn't happen. After about a week of waiting for her to die...she started getting well. That was 10 years ago and she's still going strong. I don't know what was wrong with her...we never did find out...but it all turned out okay in the end. Keep the faith buddy. Ben Article: 320017 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 18:55:05 -0600 Message-ID: References: > Yea the chicken one was a real disaster. Hey check this one out Jeff. Your > gonna love it. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/Unique-Vintage-Folk-Radio-Outsider-Art_W0QQitemZ6548937638QQcategoryZ933QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > > > -- > 73 and good DX. B.H. > Brian's Radio Universe > http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm > Good God Brian...how do you find these things ??? Ben Article: 320018 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: Subject: Re: my sick kitty....help! Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 20:00:22 -0500 "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:e8qdnaytOtg6gXHfRVn-1A@comcast.com... > This is VERY off topic, but we have two cats. One has taken very ill... > a > 7 year old "russian blue"., the friendliest cat ever, and we really love > her dearly. Normally she is all over and super active... she watches TV > with us, sleeps in our bed, etc and is very vocal. > > But now she wont eat or drink at ALL, and hid in the closet starting > Wednesday morning. We took her in, had blood test done, neg for Feline > Leukemia. Xrays seemed to show a small liver and bloated stomach... but > really an ultrasound would be needed to see that.... and, we havent done > that and arent sure if we will because, well, what can you do if it shows > a > bad liver anyways. The vet had no real ideas...gave her antibiotics and > said shoot some mush food into her mouth and water, which we are doing... > which she seems to keep down but its not much food or water compared to > her > usual. She is a 12 lb , normally strong cat. > > Both our cats are house and yard cats... they dont wander out, and neither > are hunters AT ALL... this cat in question did get out the other night as > she has occassionally, but never has had any fights. (has all claws).. she > stays very close. Both cats are female and fixed. > > Most cats we've had were elderly when they had similar apparent organ > failures, or feline leukemia, so they were put down... but, this is > really > a GREAT cat, a close personal friend...she would come in my shop and say > "hi" at night...never damaged anything... would sit on one of the knob > bins > and watch.... > :( > This all seemed to come on suddenly. We were out for 4 days and left them > food and water as we have in the past, with no problems. This cat likes > to > drink from the bathroom faucet, sometimes several times a day, like > whenever either of us go in there she'll ask for the water on a little. > Could our abscence have kept her from drinking and started this??? > > So, my question is... any cat owners in our group here that have had this > condition, and what can you tell us??? > I have looked at several websites with no great ideas... > > > Mark Oppat (and Leann...) > > > I wish I could help ya Mark. I just spent $100 on the kids cat ( had a virus) now it ran off with its mother and the other kittens. No where to be found. Cats! good luck Mark. B.H. Article: 320019 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! Message-ID: <5qVGe.1330$4F5.192@fe06.lga> Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 20:01:54 -0500 "Benjamaniac" wrote in message > Good God Brian...how do you find these things ??? > Ben > Just a little talent of mine ;) B.H. Article: 320020 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Tom Biasi" References: <95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com> <4lUGe.6352$_R1.1218@fe11.lga> Subject: Re: Philco 52 - 940, worth restoring? Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:12:23 -0400 "newbieguy" wrote in message news:vv6oe1hft29vhu2ea67s7nqt745bt98b02@4ax.com... > Thanks guys. There is a local shop that I believe does restorations. > I'll have to get a price quote. If under a hundred then I may let > them do it. I work in electronics and not afraid to use a soldering > iron so I suppose I could do it myself when I find out what has to be > done (you can buy new tubes for the radio?). Also I was looking at a > manual I found for it and they talk about adjusting either trim caps > or pots. If I do myself I don't have the equipment such as a signal > generator or whatever else is required, I could only replace parts. > Also what makes me nervous is that I've read horror stories of the > chassis becoming live in plugged in backwards. I assume these radios > don't have one prong wider then the other. I would like to prevent > any chance of that happening. Cosmetically I believe the unit is in > good condition. Ma says grampa used to pound his fist and swear up > and down as he listened to the Red Sox in the 50s and 60s with that > radio. I'm curious of how it stacks up with other's in it's class. > I've read the better ones have an isolation transformer. > Hot chassis issue was the norm back then. If you have a volt meter or even a cheap test light you can avoid any problem. If you can solder, recap the unit before any power up. Visually inspect all wires, especially the power cord and replace any that are cracked and don't look safe. Yes, tubes are available. Alignment can be done using a received station if you don't have equipment. Just think of the plus of having fixed it yourself. If you really don't feel comfortable then don't do it. Tom Article: 320021 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve" References: Subject: Re: my sick kitty....help! Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:33:15 GMT I'll have to agree with Ben. At the peak, we had 13 cats. They were part of our family, and we cared for them. After spending outrageous amounts of $$$'s with several vets for various problems, and getting NO answers, we now just pamper our sick kittys. More often than not, they recover on their own. A lot of good info is now available on the internet. It takes time to go through it all, but I'd suggest looking there for similar symptoms. Be patient. When one of our cats starts to show symptoms of an illness, we leave him/her in a bathroom with a warm bed, litter box, food and water. Often cats, when sick, will seek a quiet place away from home. You'll want to avoid that if possible. Good luck! Steve Benjamaniac wrote in message news:dch7c1$dqd7$1@news3.infoave.net... > > This all seemed to come on suddenly. We were out for 4 days and left them > > food and water as we have in the past, with no problems. This cat likes > > to > > drink from the bathroom faucet, sometimes several times a day, like > > whenever either of us go in there she'll ask for the water on a little. > > Could our abscence have kept her from drinking and started this??? > > > > So, my question is... any cat owners in our group here that have had this > > condition, and what can you tell us??? > > I have looked at several websites with no great ideas... > > > > > > Mark Oppat (and Leann...) > > Mark (and Leann), > My wife and I have had the same cat for over 18 years now. I > remember once...about 10 years ago...that would have made the cat 8 > then...she got sick as a dog (no pun intended). She wouldn't eat...got > skinny as hell...looked like death warmed over...laid around, and was limp > as a dish rag when you picked her up. We took her to the vet. After almost > 1,000 bucks of work on her...the vet couldn't find a damn thing wrong, so he > said...just let her die. We took her home...pampered her and waited for the > end. It didn't happen. After about a week of waiting for her to die...she > started getting well. That was 10 years ago and she's still going strong. I > don't know what was wrong with her...we never did find out...but it all > turned out okay in the end. Keep the faith buddy. > Ben > > > > Article: 320022 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 19:37:33 -0600 Message-ID: References: <-oydnc6r_62wtXHfRVn-1Q@bresnan.com> "Warren Weber" wrote in message news:-oydnc6r_62wtXHfRVn-1Q@bresnan.com... > > "Brian Hill" wrote in message > news:TbTGe.1305$4F5.537@fe06.lga... >> >> Ahh!! Its so refreshing to see a quality finish job. >> >> http://cgi.ebay.com/Chic-Not-Shabby-Vintage-Look-HP-Radio-SOOO-PRETTY_W0QQitemZ6548450077QQcategoryZ932QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem >> >> >> -- >> 73 and good DX. B.H. >> Brian's Radio Universe >> http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm > > > The start of a new fad????? Warren I sure hope not Warren !!!!!! Ben Article: 320023 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: my sick kitty....help! References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:35:34 GMT I am a cat lover, we have a 15 yr old female that is an outdoor cat and lives for hunting. One night she got in a terrible fight with a stray cat and didn't come home for three days. It took a while for her to get over it. She might have been traumatized by another animal. Keep her in and try to treat her to some special food like tuna fish or boiled chicken. Brian Hill wrote: > "Mark Oppat" wrote in message > news:e8qdnaytOtg6gXHfRVn-1A@comcast.com... > >>This is VERY off topic, but we have two cats. One has taken very ill... >>a >>7 year old "russian blue"., the friendliest cat ever, and we really love >>her dearly. Normally she is all over and super active... she watches TV >>with us, sleeps in our bed, etc and is very vocal. >> >>But now she wont eat or drink at ALL, and hid in the closet starting >>Wednesday morning. We took her in, had blood test done, neg for Feline >>Leukemia. Xrays seemed to show a small liver and bloated stomach... but >>really an ultrasound would be needed to see that.... and, we havent done >>that and arent sure if we will because, well, what can you do if it shows >>a >>bad liver anyways. The vet had no real ideas...gave her antibiotics and >>said shoot some mush food into her mouth and water, which we are doing... >>which she seems to keep down but its not much food or water compared to >>her >>usual. She is a 12 lb , normally strong cat. >> >>Both our cats are house and yard cats... they dont wander out, and neither >>are hunters AT ALL... this cat in question did get out the other night as >>she has occassionally, but never has had any fights. (has all claws).. she >>stays very close. Both cats are female and fixed. >> >>Most cats we've had were elderly when they had similar apparent organ >>failures, or feline leukemia, so they were put down... but, this is >>really >>a GREAT cat, a close personal friend...she would come in my shop and say >>"hi" at night...never damaged anything... would sit on one of the knob >>bins >>and watch.... >>:( >>This all seemed to come on suddenly. We were out for 4 days and left them >>food and water as we have in the past, with no problems. This cat likes >>to >>drink from the bathroom faucet, sometimes several times a day, like >>whenever either of us go in there she'll ask for the water on a little. >>Could our abscence have kept her from drinking and started this??? >> >>So, my question is... any cat owners in our group here that have had this >>condition, and what can you tell us??? >>I have looked at several websites with no great ideas... >> >> >>Mark Oppat (and Leann...) >> >> >> > > > I wish I could help ya Mark. I just spent $100 on the kids cat ( had a > virus) now it ran off with its mother and the other kittens. No where to be > found. Cats! good luck Mark. > > B.H. > > > Article: 320024 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic Message-ID: References: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:39:28 GMT Jon, In no way am I an expert, but I would avoid running your "long wire" antenna parallel to the existing Romex in the attic. If the physical constraints mandate a parallel arrangement, keep it as far as possible >from the AC line to avoid noise transfer. You want to connect to the END of the wire, IMHO. I am assuming an outside antenna is impossible for you. I'd try one of the following: 1. Run the antenna parallel to the ridge of the roof, but as far out toward the eave as you can manage. 2. Run the antenna wire diagonally from one corner of the attic to the opposite one. 3. Run the antenna from one eave to the other, following the pitch of the roof, but keep it at least a yard away from the Romex at the ridge area. FWIW, the old farmhouse I own has an exyerior antenna on the gable end that more or less adheres to the #3 above. I wil have to put it back into use. I'm sure any elementary book on shortwave listening will have several antenna schemes described. Gordon Richmond Article: 320025 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" Subject: Anyone have a metal sheer? Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:42:39 -0400 Need a bottom pan cut for a small chassis. Pete Article: 320026 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" Subject: Re: Gilfillan console (not mine) Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:46:40 -0400 Message-ID: <11eobc0ihjj1tfd@news.supernews.com> References: "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:C_udnUucVdt0jnbfRVn-1g@comcast.com... > Here is a real interesting console... a rare west coast brand, PLUS , > check > out the side grilles! > > http://cgi.ebay.com/1930s-Gilfillan-Floor-Model-Radio-Short-wave-AM-8-Tube_W0QQitemZ6549403704QQcategoryZ38034QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > > Mark Oppat Nice clean design, sort of a "Mission" style. Couple of questions: There appears to be a whale of a crack on left side, across the grain. What the heck could have caused that!? Also, do you think that the original finish (it looks refinished to me) was that light? Or did they just not bother to be faithful to the original finish and not tone it? -- "Stay strong. Be brave. Wait for the signs." Regards, Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario Article: 320027 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42EC2DE8.1F120886@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: PA speakers - Worth salvaging? References: <11ee5ac2fna036e@corp.supernews.com> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:49:00 GMT lbrty4us@aol.com wrote: > > Michael A. Terrell wrote: > > > The speakers are usually 25 volt in school intercom systems so they > > can use class 2 low voltage wiring, and for safety reasons. > > If he was incorrect & has the 25v system & xfmrs, they're useless as > tube OPT's (625 / watt tap rating = pri Z), and the amp OPT's will be > 12.5Z (50w) or 6Z (100w) out, the latter common on old PA's & useable > with 8Z spkrs for lo-fi. They'll typically have choke-input supplies, > too (check first), i.e. not good as a guitar amp & wrong (higher) > voltage & lower reactance PT design for using in a comparable cap-input > supply. Were your Dukane's this way? They had 25 volt and 70 volt outputs. There are a number of the schematics in the older Sams Photofacts. I don't remember any chokes in the high voltage power supply, but the 1A475 does have a choke: http://www.triodeel.com/du1a475.gif It is the only schematic i have found on;line, but I wasn't really looking. I wouldn't mind having a pair of the 100 watt tube amps for spares at my church. Some of the Dukane speakers had dual voltage primaries on the matching transformer and you selected either 25 or 70 volts on the secondary. If nothing else, the 1 Watt tap on the 25 volt line is perfect to connect a speaker to the 600 ohm output on boatanchor receivers. I have used up or given away the last of my spare 25 volt transformers to hams for their boatanchor projects. -- Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted after threats were telephoned to my church. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 320028 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <-oydnc6r_62wtXHfRVn-1Q@bresnan.com> Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:05:25 -0500 Message-ID: <42ec3185$1_3@newspeer2.tds.net> > The start of a new fad????? Warren Unfortunately it seems there have been quite a few of these showing up on ebay lately (check ARF's Online Auctions Forum, where a couple of them have been getting commented on.) One woman has been taking a lot of flak for doing this to a rather unusual postwar Philco. At least this set is a reproduction, so no one has to care about anyone screwing up an antique. Article: 320029 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: Subject: Re: my sick kitty....help! Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:06:26 -0500 "Lou deGonzague" wrote in message news:GVVGe.674$Rc6.421@twister.nyroc.rr.com... >I am a cat lover, we have a 15 yr old female that is an outdoor cat and >lives for hunting. One night she got in a terrible fight with a stray cat >and didn't come home for three days. It took a while for her to get over >it. She might have been traumatized by another animal. Keep her in and try >to treat her to some special food like tuna fish or boiled chicken. > Oh their spoiled but they are out door cats. Shes a tuff cat and all the other cats around show her respect. She took off with her three kittens before. Probably to teach em to hunt? But its a little worrysome wondering iff they'll return but they allways turn up. B.H. Article: 320030 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: my sick kitty....help! Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 11:08:35 +0900 Message-ID: References: "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:e8qdnaytOtg6gXHfRVn-1A@comcast.com... > This is VERY off topic, but we have two cats. One has taken very ill... a > 7 year old "russian blue"., the friendliest cat ever, and we really love > her dearly. Normally she is all over and super active... she watches TV > with us, sleeps in our bed, etc and is very vocal. > > But now she wont eat or drink at ALL, and hid in the closet starting > Wednesday morning. We took her in, had blood test done, neg for Feline > Leukemia. Xrays seemed to show a small liver and bloated stomach... but > really an ultrasound would be needed to see that.... and, we havent done > that and arent sure if we will because, well, what can you do if it shows a > bad liver anyways. The vet had no real ideas...gave her antibiotics and > said shoot some mush food into her mouth and water, which we are doing... > which she seems to keep down but its not much food or water compared to her > usual. She is a 12 lb , normally strong cat. > > Both our cats are house and yard cats... they dont wander out, and neither > are hunters AT ALL... this cat in question did get out the other night as > she has occassionally, but never has had any fights. (has all claws).. she > stays very close. Both cats are female and fixed. > > Most cats we've had were elderly when they had similar apparent organ > failures, or feline leukemia, so they were put down... but, this is really > a GREAT cat, a close personal friend...she would come in my shop and say > "hi" at night...never damaged anything... would sit on one of the knob bins > and watch.... > :( > This all seemed to come on suddenly. We were out for 4 days and left them > food and water as we have in the past, with no problems. This cat likes to > drink from the bathroom faucet, sometimes several times a day, like > whenever either of us go in there she'll ask for the water on a little. > Could our abscence have kept her from drinking and started this??? > > So, my question is... any cat owners in our group here that have had this > condition, and what can you tell us??? > I have looked at several websites with no great ideas... > > We are cat lovers, too. Wouldn't know what to do if we lost one of our kids. Will keep you and your kitty in our prayers. Article: 320031 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "William R. Walsh" References: <14iGe.10605$oZ.6951@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Most extensive restoration Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 02:20:59 GMT Hi! Just out of curiosity, what do you do with all the pieces you remove from old radios that are being converted? William Article: 320032 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Anyone have a metal sheer? Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 22:28:18 -0400 Shear rather! " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:p0WGe.159350$go.45490@fed1read05... > Need a bottom pan cut for a small chassis. > > Pete > > Article: 320033 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: <_KWGe.226052$nG6.66521@attbi_s22> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 02:32:26 GMT In article , jon@NOscapturaSPAM.com says... > > >Since my new workshop is in the basement, I'm thinking of stringing a wire >from one end of the attic (unfinished) to the other end to use as an >antenna. >-- >Jon Scaptura Jon .... first forget the coax idea... the stuff is 50 or 75 ohms... your radio your trying to put the antenna one... it wants a high impedance antenna... on the order of 600 to 1000 ohms.... as in a single long wire... now this wire should be as long as possible..... back in the olden days in many attics you found a maze of wire for antenna for the family radio... your attic is 35 feet long .... by ??? feet wide?.... take one long roll of wire and your staple gun up there... start at one corner of your attic... go 35 feet stapling as you crawl along... since at this point your rafters are probably close to the floor... make a turn and come back again about 1 foot away from the first row.... when you get to the other end again go the same thing... one long continuous wire... back and forth across your attic.... end up where you intend to drop it down the wall to the basement.... then run same wire to basement and hook to radio... That 50 feet or whatever to get to the attic.... plus all the rest of the wire.... wild guess you can get about 500 feet up there.... as for close to the Romex.... skip that area a bit... stay a couple of feet away from it.. and Yes I have one.... just like above... works great.... yes if that whole mess of wire was outside... in one long single staight line it would be better than going back and forth in the attic .... but not all that much better .... and the lightning won't hit the one in the attic.. John k9uwa Article: 320034 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 02:41:44 GMT Brian Hill wrote: > Yea the chicken one was a real disaster. Hey check this one out Jeff. Your > gonna love it. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/Unique-Vintage-Folk-Radio-Outsider-Art_W0QQitemZ6548937638QQcategoryZ933QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Ow ow ow ow, My eyes! Aaaaaahhhhh.... Jeff -- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin "A life lived in fear is a life half lived." Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom" Article: 320035 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT: my sick kitty....help! From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: <4VWGe.226064$nG6.160365@attbi_s22> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 02:43:12 GMT In article , moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet says... > > >This is VERY off topic, but we have two cats. One has taken very ill... a >So, my question is... any cat owners in our group here that have had this >condition, and what can you tell us??? >Mark Oppat (and Leann...) > > > I agree with Peter ... either the Kitty has a large furball or else has eaten something that has her hosed up... spiders as well as a lot of other things as Peter mentioned... give her the furball medicine in either case... John & Jean who also have two terribly spoiled Kitties... Article: 320036 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: Subject: Re: Anyone have a metal sheer? Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:46:40 -0500 " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:p0WGe.159350$go.45490@fed1read05... > Need a bottom pan cut for a small chassis. > > Pete > > What size? And your address Peter. -- 73 and good DX. B.H. Brian's Radio Universe http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm Article: 320037 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Philco 52 - 940, worth restoring? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:02:54 GMT In article <95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com>, geepondy@hotmail.com says... > > >I am about to come in possesion of a Philco 52-940 AM radio that was >originally my grandparents. My mom says it still works but has a hum >and seems very prone to appliance and other interferance (I assume she >means worse then normal for am). For about 10 bucks in capacitors and postage you to can have this radio back in correct working condition... tubes?... it doesn't need any is my guess since it still hums... replace the 3 section filter capacitor with 3 individual 47 Mfd @ 160 volts... plus any wax/paper capacitors that are in it... not sure but perhaps it has a couple black beauty caps if someone repaired it in the late 50's early 60's ... they need replacing... any ceramic caps that are in it should be fine... don't go tweaking the screws in the thing... replace the caps and then see how it plays.... John k9uwa Article: 320038 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Remember this Zenith 9s262? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122695602.717122.32820@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <1122757707.771099.26620@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:07:11 GMT In article <1122757707.771099.26620@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, menwagoh@msn.com says... > > >Careful, it might be on her list of things she MUST have. You'll end up >in front of Judge Judy explaining why you ruined her iron. > Jean regularly uses her 4 buck yard sale special iron for veneer... and watch out for Judge Judy! John k9uwa Article: 320039 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Anyone have a metal sheer? Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 23:16:25 -0400 "Brian Hill" wrote in message news:jYWGe.1347$4F5.1285@fe06.lga... > > > > What size? And your address Peter. > > Brian Email on way to your website contact email address. Pete Article: 320040 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: robert casey Subject: Re: Philco 52 - 940, worth restoring? References: <95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com> <4lUGe.6352$_R1.1218@fe11.lga> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:24:01 GMT newbieguy wrote: > Thanks guys. There is a local shop that I believe does restorations. > I'll have to get a price quote. If under a hundred then I may let > them do it. I work in electronics and not afraid to use a soldering > iron so I suppose I could do it myself when I find out what has to be > done (you can buy new tubes for the radio?). At this age, tubes are usually not the trouble. What will definitely need to be replaced are all of the wax paper capacitors, and the filter electrolytic cap. See my page http://www.geocities.com/wa2ise/radios/repair.htm and http://www.antiqueradio.org/recap.htm though I would not try to remove all of the old cap's leads from tube socket and other terminals, as these terminals are fairly fragile and not designed to take the stress. Just clip out the old cap, and immediately replace with a new one of value 20% within the old cap's value, and voltage rating the same or higher than the old cap. > Ma says grampa used to pound his fist and swear up > and down as he listened to the Red Sox in the 50s and 60s with that > radio. I'm curious of how it stacks up with other's in it's class. > I've read the better ones have an isolation transformer. Looked at the diagram of that set, and it looks like it should work quite well once restored. It has a tuned RF amp, most sets like this don't have that. Other than that it's pretty much a typical All American 5 tube radio (AA5). Be aware that the power switch is usually inserted between the power cord and the set's ground. THis means that the chassis will flip from hot to cold, or cold to hot, when you turn it on. Not an issue when in the cabinet, but is an issue on the bench. An isolation transformer would be a good idea. If one is not handy, you could take a pair of transformers of the same secondary voltage rating and connect them back to back. Each transformer should be rated to handle at least 50W. For materials, one pretty good place on the web is http://www.tubesandmore.com though they are a little bit more expensive than similar. Article: 320041 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: OT: my sick kitty....help! Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 12:25:50 +0900 Message-ID: References: <4VWGe.226064$nG6.160365@attbi_s22> "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:4VWGe.226064$nG6.160365@attbi_s22... > In article , moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet > says... > > > > > >This is VERY off topic, but we have two cats. One has taken very ill... a > >So, my question is... any cat owners in our group here that have had this > >condition, and what can you tell us??? > >Mark Oppat (and Leann...) > > > > > > > I agree with Peter ... either the Kitty has a large furball or else > has eaten something that has her hosed up... spiders as well as a lot > of other things as Peter mentioned... give her the furball medicine > in either case... > > John & Jean who also have two terribly spoiled Kitties... A mild laxative (pink pills) also does miracles for hairballs... but it may be that this hairball (if it is one) is well past oral treatments.. > Article: 320042 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: whats that CE symbol i see on everything now ? Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 12:27:26 +0900 Message-ID: References: <14534-42E9CCBF-409@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net> <1122765217.452725.164270@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1122775953.474973.279580@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> "No longer amused" wrote in message news:1122775953.474973.279580@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > Electric guitars have never been PASSIVE... I've personally never seen one that wasn't passive. Passive being no active electronic components, like transistors, IC's, etc. Most electrics have only a pick-up coil or two, a couple controls and some capacitors.. all passive components. Article: 320043 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: robert casey Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:27:43 GMT > > Other than obviously NOT the original color scheme, > it's a nice job. > It's an AM/FM set. A solid state repro set I suspect. Still, that's not what it's supposed to look like... :-) Article: 320044 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic From: Larry References: Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 23:28:57 -0400 "Jon" wrote in news:XNOGe.656$0m1.623@twister.nyroc.rr.com: > My questions: > > 1. Should I ground the coax shield at the attic or basement? > > 2. Is 50' of coax too long of a run for a 35' antenna? > > 3. Should I connect to the end of the antenna wire or the middle with > the coax? > > 4. There is romex running along the ridge of my attic for lights, how > far away do I have to be from it so that it won't affect my reception? > > You shouldn't use 50 ohm coax AT ALL! A random wire receiving antenna is never 50 ohms. It's much, much higher. The shunt capacitance between the big center conductor and shield of 50 ohm coax will be a near short to the high impedance antenna system of both the radio and the antenna. Have you ever pulled the coax connector off a car radio antenna? It has a shield around the outside, much like 50 ohm coax. But, inside the shield is a poly tube, hollow as soon as they can make it. In the tube is a very, very tiny single strand of copper wire just loosely floating in the air of the poly tube holding the shield away from it. The shunt capacitance of this cable is VERY low because the fine wire has such a tiny exposed exterior FAR away, relatively, from the grounded shielding. This is the "coax" you should be using on that random receiving wire in the attic. I'm not sure who has it, but I'm sure Belden or one of the other cable makers makes it. You could make your own. 3/4" METAL conduit for the shield with a #28 or smaller hookup wire running down the inside of it should give you similar performance. The smaller the wire, the smaller the shunt capacitance to the conduit, the better the signals. Ground the shield on just the basement end. This creates the desired Faraday (as in Michael) Shield for the down feed wire. The Faraday Shield will keep out the noise induced from the house wiring below, but not near, the attic. Of course, the antenna, itself, will pick up every buzz from all the leaky insulators on the primary electrical system for 10 miles in all directions...if you do it right...(c; -- Larry From stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Sun Aug 7 01:24:22 EDT 2005 Article: 320045 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Stephanie Weil Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! References: Reply-To: stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Message-ID: User-Agent: slrn/0.9.7.4 (Linux) Lines: 12 Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:19:47 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 66.65.49.245 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: twister.nyc.rr.com 1122779987 66.65.49.245 (Sat, 30 Jul 2005 23:19:47 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 23:19:47 EDT Organization: Road Runner - NYC Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!cyclone1.gnilink.net!gnilink.net!cyclone.rdc-nyc.rr.com!news-out.nyc.rr.com!twister.nyc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320045 In article , Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > Ow ow ow ow, My eyes! Aaaaaahhhhh.... That refreshing feeling of a red-hot cauterizing iron plunged into the eyeballs. Now if there were only a way I could burn that image out of my BRAIN! >_< -- Stephanie Weil New York City, U.S.A. Article: 320046 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: robert casey Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! References: Message-ID: <1CXGe.662$ns.124@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:31:09 GMT > > Yea the chicken one was a real disaster. Hey check this one out Jeff. Your > gonna love it. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/Unique-Vintage-Folk-Radio-Outsider-Art_W0QQitemZ6548937638QQcategoryZ933QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > > I've occasionally used old credit card pieces when I needed some sheet plastic insulation in a radio, but that's hidden inside.... ;-) Article: 320047 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <_KWGe.226052$nG6.66521@attbi_s22> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:31:47 GMT In article , onw9mapsgb@no.arrl.spam.net says... > > >Well, it won't "hit" it .. >BUT induced currents can be carried through the wires strung in attic (with >a nearby lightning hit). Been there - done that - and yes, when I smelled >the ozone outside -- to see where it hit -- you know it was close ! > >gb > > your right gary... I do ground the attic one when not in use.. I should have mentioned it when I explained how to build it... John k9uwa From stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Sun Aug 7 01:24:22 EDT 2005 Article: 320048 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Stephanie Weil Subject: Re: Pawnshop goes high tech, slightly OT References: <1122780621.783601.207280@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Reply-To: stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Message-ID: User-Agent: slrn/0.9.7.4 (Linux) Lines: 12 Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:23:26 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 66.65.49.245 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: twister.nyc.rr.com 1122780206 66.65.49.245 (Sat, 30 Jul 2005 23:23:26 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 23:23:26 EDT Organization: Road Runner - NYC Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!cyclone1.gnilink.net!gnilink.net!cyclone.rdc-nyc.rr.com!news-out.nyc.rr.com!twister.nyc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320048 In article <1122780621.783601.207280@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, ego_te_demitto wrote: > (must have one to get it to work right). He input the old info into > their new wizbang system and came up with a new price of $480. He said And I betcha they only paid $50 or $100 to the the burglar or poor desperate soul who brought it in to hock. -- Stephanie Weil New York City, U.S.A. Article: 320049 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: robert casey Subject: Re: OT: my sick kitty....help! References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:32:36 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > This is VERY off topic, but we have two cats. One has taken very ill... a > 7 year old "russian blue"., the friendliest cat ever, and we really love > her dearly. Hope she gets better. My family has had many cats over the years, and they can be quite friendly. Article: 320050 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Dial cover needed From: Paul Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:42:51 GMT Looking for a Stromberg Carlson 900H dial cover, Any one making dial covers besides Bill? P.S. I Don't want to deal with Dolye Roberts I have never come across a more rude, ignorant person in my life, in my few emails with this jerk. Article: 320051 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <42EBC544.D906F153@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:43:29 GMT In article <42EBC544.D906F153@earthlink.net>, mike.terrell@earthlink.net says... > > >Gary Tayman wrote: Stuff I use is... Multi-Meter Fluke DMM autoranger... after I got used to this autoranger I sold off all the VTVM's I had.... Tenma Cap checker for checking correct pF on small mica caps etc.. Heathkit Cap checker... now I use this for a strange use for the most part... I put a 500K resistor in series with a pair of leads.... and this becomes my hi voltage source... low current to look for bent plates in variable capacitors... sparks and no damage to the plates.. makes finding the bent ones easy.... Signal Jenny .. here an HP-8640 with downconverter.. you would also need the downconverter as well if you do the 8640 thing..... otherwise the lowest frequency is 450 Khz.... you and I both need 262 and sometimes 50 Khz... and they need to be accurate... your simple generator with the digital freq meter is also OK... In Florida I use a Signal Jenny called a "Black Ferret" ... cause it has a nice black face and white letters and I can see the damned thing! I think for the work that you do.... the HP-8640 would be a good investment along with the downconverter.... I have about $500 in the pair.. Toob Testers.... your fine with what you have... Hickok is nice but most arent any better than your 747 ... I use my hickok when I want to "Sell Toobes" to the AudioPhools.... they wanna see.... My Clibrated Hickok Seez in the auction... for the old radios.. I use 99% of the time an Elcheapo Paco Emissions tester.... I now have a Hickok 6000A that does most ANY tube.... have two islands that plug into it... one the original 6000A insland with late tube sockets.. and an early island from a 6000 that has 4,5,6,7, etc sockets on it.... How you do that is #1 find a good 6000A.. #2... find a junker 6000 to get Island from... #3.. now this is the hard part... find a 12 pin octal sized plug to install on the early island in place of the 11 pin one that is on it... signal tracer .. still like my Eico 147A ... in Florida I use a little Heathkit... does the same thing.. Same Heathkit IP-17 vaiable bench supply as you have... also have a homebrew one in the garage if I need a 2nd one.... Scope is a Techtronix 2215... dual trace 60 Mhz ... more than adequate for any use I have of it... most of the time it just sets on the end of the bench and looks good when customers come in here... once in a while I use it... John k9uwa Article: 320052 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ron in Radio Heaven Subject: Re: Radio collector Dick Desjarlais makes the paper References: Message-ID: <7ZXGe.81262$Kp2.4813125@twister.southeast.rr.com> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:55:47 GMT Art's Antique Radios wrote: > too bad he doesn't know that the Motorola Museum has been closed for almost > 2 years > I didn't know that either, of course it's been about 10 years since I was there... Ron Article: 320053 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT: my sick kitty....help! From: Larry References: Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 23:57:31 -0400 "Mark Oppat" wrote in news:e8qdnaytOtg6gXHfRVn-1A@comcast.com: > This is VERY off topic, but we have two cats. One has taken very > ill... a 7 year old "russian blue"., the friendliest cat ever, and we > really love her dearly. Normally she is all over and super active... > she watches TV with us, sleeps in our bed, etc and is very vocal. > I used to own a petshop specializing in parrots, but sold a LOT of hairball medicines on the side. I'm not a vet or I'd be rich ripping off pet owners and petshop owners. Does this poor cat have access to GRASS...good ol' fashioned outdoor lawn grass not sprayed to hell by Lawn-O-Green and 500 lbs of fertilizer and pesticides? GRASS is one of natures most effective hairball medicines we found, unless it's in a "nice neighborhood" where it's regularly sprayed into poison by rich people. Cat eats grass, sweetens sour stomach, makes cat puke up all kinds of crap it eats...hair, buttons, beer can poptops, crap under the sofa, even old radio parts, which are all poison! Cat's now-empty stomach causes eating storm.... Hey, I used to sell some of the finest cat food on the planet, with all kinds of exotic names. The best cat food, unlike this crap I sold, smells like DEAD FISH because it IS dead fish, and costs pennies a can at WalMart. Shhh...don't tell anyone or the pet shop owners who know me will have a contract out on my head! After you get her to puke, try feeding her something besides gourmet pelletized crap made out of soybeans for a while. Sorry I can't help further... If my parrots find out I've helped save a CAT, they'll bite my head off! "Zeke" - Yellow Nape Amazon, "untameable" import, sleeping upside down between my knees as I type this pushing up with both feet on the underside of the keyboard slide tray. He snores...(sigh)...makes every electronic noise he's ever heard (pagers, cellphones, computers, anything that beeps including all the original Star Trek sounds taught to him from a little toy that made them). "Roger-Roger" (he got that off the 2 meter repeaters) - Blue and Gold Macaw I hand-fed 24/7 from a 6-day-old, artificially hatched, chick with no feathers. He thinks I'm his mother, so best not to make fast moves towards me when he's loose. Favorite phrase: "Oh oh...Now what?", usually as a new guest in the house is staring at him through the bars. Curses like a sailor...my fault...I lose my temper after hearing the SAME parrot sound 8000 times between sunup and breakfast. You would, too! Greatest Trick: He's POTTY TRAINED and won't poop on you! Took 3 years to train it. Sequence is: Bird says: "I gotta go" Hold bird over trash can, paper on floor, etc. Bird leans back and drops it. Bird yells "BOMBS AWAY!!" Bird climbs back up arm to sleep against ear.... Zeke "chuckles" when HE poops on you.... Life Expectancy, unlike cats/dogs: Zeke - 60-75 years Roger-Roger - 75-100 years Parrots are pets-for-life. -- Larry "NO, ZEKE! NOT AGAIN!!" Article: 320054 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Yuck !!! From: Larry References: <1122776618.036970.92280@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 00:12:27 -0400 "Jeff, WB8NHV" wrote in news:1122776618.036970.92280@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: > As much as I enjoy collecting antique radios (I have five vintage > Zeniths here), I would definitely not want any radio that had been > urinated in, pooped on, etc. by cats, no matter how rare the set was > You boys need to follow me out to some country church to fix their old Baldwin console organ the rats have lived in for years..... Cats can't pee and poop inside this small a space....(c; I picked up a 1955 Hammond pedal clavier with my bare hands in a nice Baptist Education Center a couple of months back. Within 5 inches of where I chose to lift the pedals out from under the Hammond, the BIGGEST black widow spider I ever saw had built an extensive nest for her family and was NOT impressed by my technical expertise at fixing old Hammonds, AT ALL! She missed me by an inch in her lunge at my little finger, luckily. Now, every time I got to work on pedals, I look VERY carefully under them before getting anywhere near them! -- Larry Article: 320055 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 04:31:26 GMT Stephanie Weil wrote: > Now if there were only a way I could burn that image out of my BRAIN! >_< Hum to yourself. "It's a small world after all...." Then think of those dilapitated puppets... Yuppers, that ought to do it. Jeff -- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin "A life lived in fear is a life half lived." Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom" Article: 320056 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" Subject: Calling Philip I. Nelson Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 04:31:35 GMT Hi Phil, I sent two emails to you, I was wondering if you received them? Omer Article: 320057 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: PA speakers - Worth salvaging? Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:36:29 -0700 Message-ID: References: <11ee5ac2fna036e@corp.supernews.com> <1122517351.870410.283300@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122596126.679541.56090@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Mark Oppat wrote: >>Since we are on the "good side" of what some are good for, we ought to >>mention that they are quite good enough for old communications sets >>which have a 600 ohm output & no spkr w/xfmr in the deal - such as an >>early HRO. For such speech freq rcvrs anything close to an 8w tap >>works great & saves $$. I am listening to a Hammarlund SP-600 so equipped right now as I am typing this .....sounds great. The fractional-wattage tapped transformers appear to be quite a bit more common than what the previous poster has encountered. The RatShack transformer has it, and the aforementioned SP-600 speaker-which is an ancient Bogen PA speaker and line transfomer in a slanted, deco wood box-has it too. Maybe the mil-spec units did not because the government didn't spec them that way. -Scott Article: 320058 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 00:26:58 -0500 Hi Jeff. Yes its true there are old radios out there that have worked fine for many years and usually I find that in most cases these radios have been used on a regular basis from time to time. but if one wants to guarantee safety and continued life of the set its far too cheap a form of insurance to give one piece of mind in regards to the integrity of the set in question and in most cases performance is enhanced. -- 73 and good DX. B.H. Brian's Radio Universe http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm Article: 320059 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: 'Re: Any News on Bill Turner? Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:20:28 -0700 Message-ID: References: <5mLEe.203545$nG6.155894@attbi_s22> <4qmdnViSu8qLB37fRVn-qA@comcast.com> <1122445596.1493a6b9e553137e909c12a9f62b0433@teranews> william_b_noble wrote: > but seriously guys: > > a few decades ago an electrician I had worked with asked me to look at the > basement of a house - a lady's husband had died and left it full of "mystery > stuff" - a rather bizarre ham shack, with stuff under the stairs (and still > powered on), zip cord everywhere, etc. I went through the stuff, sorted the > wheat from the chaff, removed the bad wiring and refused payment on the > basis that one should help people. The reason I'm posting this isn't to > claim a halo, it's to suggest that you take the time to tell your > significant other/probable executor what is what, how to dispose of the > stuff in a way that maximizes value, and so on - maybe label things that are > not obvious, provide a list ot contacts for clubs, etc. Otherwise, the > "good stuff" will be just junk, and into the landfill it will go, possibly > costing your heirs $$$, and certainly not maintaing your vision. Perhaps a page from a completed ebay listing, representative of an identical model of set, in approximately the same condition, taped to the side or bottom or an inconspicuous place would give clueless relatives an idea of the real value of a given piece. Keep in mind, though, that the people handling your posthumous affairs must have a fairly high give-a-shit factor to begin with. When my father -in-law died, my sister-in-law, who has a fetish against clutter or accumulation of any kind, wanted to get rid of everything. "I don't wanna deal with all this crap, get this shit outta here!" she said. It was fortunate that she was not the only one calling the shots; if she was, a very nice Drake SW4A he kept in his office would have likely gone right into the garbage. (It's in my restoration queue now). -Scott Article: 320060 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: Where can I find a new analog meter? Date: 31 Jul 2005 03:34:03 -0500 Message-ID: <42ec8c76$0$16841$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <42e9b2b1$0$16783$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <42EA873F.1EA69200@earthlink.net> Michael A. Terrell wrote:> > MCM has several different models, including three in the newest sales > flyer. > > > Thanks for all the tips, including this one. Is there any other mail order outfit with these products aside from MCM? I dislike dealing with them -- I don't like the way that they do business -- you can't know what your credit card was charged until you read the packing slip. Who else does business that way? And in a case like this, I've got a problem with their traditional lack of adequate descriptions in their listings. I looked at these meters -- they may be good, they may not; I can't tell. My experience buying from them has been about the same as buying from JC Whitney. At least with Whitney, I know what I'll be paying. So, definitely: if you know of an alternative source, I'm all for it. -------------------- Meanwhile, I've got an Eico VTVM that won't calibrate on AC Volts. And a Simpson 260 (the kind without protection). In this case, I want one or two general-purpose meters. It'd be nice if one of them gives accurate decibels over 20-20,000 cycles. eBay was, indeed, quite a feast with these. How does one know if the movement isn't sticky or off balance? How do you ask a seller -- you know, one of those folks who lists, like: "It works great. I know it's in perfect condition. I can't test it because I don't know how to work it. I was told that the guy who owned it before the guy who I bought it off was a serious collector of electricity. But it's really perfect; I know it is because it powers up." I mean, how do you deal with a guy like this? Thanks again! Bubba Article: 320061 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: CTC-10 testing - B&W... and purple Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 18:05:39 +0900 Message-ID: References: <1122448486.717348.4460@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <24903-42E779AC-8@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net> <1122798666.312554.136160@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "frenchy" wrote in message news:1122798666.312554.136160@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > OK I slugged the chassis back onto my bench and I've checked the > reactance coil and it is reading almost zero resistance so that doesn't > seem to be it. And swapping tubes in and around didn't help, and they > all tested ok anyway. Is there a way to test the 3.58 crystal besides > putting another one in? Is it a common thing that that crystal could > fail? I don't have any extras but I have a tube-type crystal in my > ctc-5, wonder if I could just swap that one in there with alligator > clips to see if it then syncs up? I need to go back tommorrow and > start checking resistors in that area too. Thanks...Frenchy > Also check for an open tint control.. Article: 320062 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: CTC-10 testing - B&W... and purple Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 02:31:40 -0700 Message-ID: <6929-42EC9A7C-546@storefull-3174.bay.webtv.net> References: <1122798666.312554.136160@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Frenchy: If you go to sub that crystal, don't do it with alligator clips. Too much added capacitance. Tack it directly in place. Truthfully, i've never seen one cause the oscillator to quit. First time for everything, and no way to tell but to sub it. Bill(oc) Article: 320063 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: GTE SYLVANIA silver-face <---HELP KILL OFF THIS SPAMMER! Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:26:15 -0700 Message-ID: <4h9pe1tjc70sduntd5n1b6kgvtublif4uj@4ax.com> References: <1122725346.157987.118780@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> On 30 Jul 2005 05:09:06 -0700, "DICK White" wrote: >http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/ This is the real Bob Scarborough...the real DeserTBoB. The OP who originally posted this spam is: Charlie Nudo 160 Bear Run Dr Drums, PA 18222 thenudofamily@epix.net ...a confirmed con artist and spammer. He shows up under a variety of different names, such as CAINE, DesertBob Jr., UNIVERSAL MIND, trippingtoo8track and a rash of others trying to hide his identity, and since I've been campaigning to have him turned in for spamming, he's been using my name and nick everywhere. Nudo's home ISP is epix.net. Email addresses he uses are as follows (parsed to get around Google's ridiculous email filtering algorithm): trippin28track "at" yahoo.com trippingtoo8track "at" yahoo.com dynobot "at" hotmail.com winchester1886 "at" hotmail.com coltblackpowder "at" hotmail.com thenudofamily "at" epix.net hsf18 "at" epix.net You might want to try sending a spam complaint to Epix clicking this link: abuse@epix.net ...and including all the following: ________________ Path: spln!rex!extra.newsguy.com!lotsanews.com!nntp-out.svc.us.xo.net!nntp1-feeder.SJ.svc.us.xo.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!sjc1.nntp.concentric.net!newsfeed-3001.bay.webtv.net!news.glorb.com!postnews.google.com!g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com!not-for-mail From: "trippingtoo8track" Newsgroups: alt.collecting.8-track-tapes Subject: HUGE LOT 450 tapes-Ebay-$10 Date: 4 Jul 2005 08:15:12 -0700 Organization: http://groups.google.com Lines: 2 Message-ID: <1120490112.243819.45190@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.222.226.228 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" X-Trace: posting.google.com 1120490117 9611 127.0.0.1 (4 Jul 2005 15:15:17 GMT) X-Complaints-To: groups-abuse@google.com NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 15:15:17 +0000 (UTC) User-Agent: G2/0.2 Complaints-To: groups-abuse@google.com Injection-Info: g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com; posting-host=216.222.226.228; posting-account=VAdjZAwAAADmKDX4DvJnyDqyw3y1Cbsb Xref: spln alt.collecting.8-track-tapes:34043 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4744913592 ____________________ As you can see, the posting host is epix.net, and they'd probably like to shut off another spammer. Also, it'd be nice to cc a copy to group-abuse@google.com , but they don't seem to care very much. Also, you can file a complaint with eBay, as such spamming is counter to their own Terms of Service. Use the Security link at the bottom of any eBay auction page. Charlie Nudo is a spammer, confirmed petty criminal, con artist and fraudster. Please do not participate in his fraud auctions as it keeps him spamming and selling his crap on eBay and Usenet. Article: 320064 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jon" References: <1122776920.424558.32850@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 10:56:55 GMT "No longer amused" wrote in message news:1122776920.424558.32850@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... > > Jon wrote: >> Since my new workshop is in the basement, I'm thinking of stringing a >> wire >> from one end of the attic (unfinished) to the other end to use as an >> antenna. I was thinking of using RG-6u to reach the attic from my >> workshop, >> about a 50' run. The antenna will be about 35' long. >> >> My questions: >> >> 1. Should I ground the coax shield at the attic or basement? >> >> 2. Is 50' of coax too long of a run for a 35' antenna? >> >> 3. Should I connect to the end of the antenna wire or the middle with the >> coax? >> >> 4. There is romex running along the ridge of my attic for lights, how far >> away do I have to be from it so that it won't affect my reception? > > You don't have a fence to use to support a Beverage? > No, and my yard is quite small. Jon Article: 320065 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jon" References: Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 11:02:11 GMT "Larry" wrote in message news:Xns96A3EF8205E05noone@63.223.7.253... > "Jon" wrote in > news:XNOGe.656$0m1.623@twister.nyroc.rr.com: > >> My questions: >> >> 1. Should I ground the coax shield at the attic or basement? >> >> 2. Is 50' of coax too long of a run for a 35' antenna? >> >> 3. Should I connect to the end of the antenna wire or the middle with >> the coax? >> >> 4. There is romex running along the ridge of my attic for lights, how >> far away do I have to be from it so that it won't affect my reception? >> >> > > You shouldn't use 50 ohm coax AT ALL! A random wire receiving antenna is > never 50 ohms. It's much, much higher. The shunt capacitance between the > big center conductor and shield of 50 ohm coax will be a near short to the > high impedance antenna system of both the radio and the antenna. > > -- > Larry I was intending on using a balun in the attic: http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/ice/reconly.html#Beverage%20Matching to match between the coax and antenna. However, if you don't think that will be a good idea, I'll just tie the conductor and shield together at both ends of the coax, as it's already in place. -- Jon Scaptura Endicott, NY See my antique radios here: http://www.scaptura.com/radio/gallery/Antique_radios Article: 320066 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 11:24:03 GMT In article , jon@NOscapturaSPAM.com says... > > > >I was intending on using a balun in the attic: >http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/ice/reconly.html#Beverage%20Matching >to match between the coax and antenna. However, if you don't think that >will be a good idea, I'll just tie the conductor and shield together at both >ends of the coax, as it's already in place. > >Jon Scaptura Yes you can short the inner and outer of the coax. Or just use the Outer as your Up Wire to the attic.... then add more length to the attic wire. the other way... yes sort of you can use a 9/1 at that antenna... but you also have to use another one at the radio end to get the low impedance back up to high impedance for the radio.... plus you have lost the receiving ability of the 50 feet of drop wire >from attic to radio..... John k9uwa Article: 320067 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 11:34:48 GMT In article <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>, jeffhs@ameritech.net says... > > > Jeff, WB8NHV (mailto: jeffhs@ameritech.net) Agree with Mark and William... replace the caps .. it is cheap insurance. The Image Frequency you mentioned.. notice that the IF frequency of these radios is 455 times 2 = 900 and that your hearing these stations 900 Khz down from correct frequency... Mixer tube will take the Osc Frequency and the input freq.. and it will provide both the SUM and the Difference as outputs etc... anyway.... your radios that get these stations low on the dial... they don't have enough tuning in them to prevent it from happening on very strong signals. Added Tuned RF stages do help.. John k9uwa Article: 320068 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: 'best match' of impedance? From: "xrongor" Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 05:41:10 -0600 Message-ID: References: let me try this one more time. im trying to be clear in my stipulation that the speakers perform identically (and fully realize this is a real world impossibility), but apparantly im not. i tried making the example more specific and that made things worse... maybe if i go to an extreme abstraction and include some humor we can eliminate some of these other variables that keep creeping back in... so sit right back and hear my tale. my tale of a fateful trip. its you. alone on a tiny boat in the tropics with three cases of speakers and all the test equipment in the world. for some reason instead of enjoying your boat trip, you have conducted a battery of tests and have concluded that you have found three identical speakers. identical in EVERY POSSIBLE way except one. speaker 1 has 4 ohms impedance, speaker 2 has 8 ohms, and speaker 3 has 16 ohms. so you're on a 3 speaker tour. a 3 speaker tour. (lightning strike) but the weather starts gettin rough and all your test equipment gets tossed in the ocean along with all the speakers except for your 3 identical ones. if not for your courage, the 3 speakers would have been lost. how fearless of you!! finally the ship sets ground on an uncharted desert island. with speaker 1, and speaker 2. speaker 3, and its wife.. ok no wife. no mary ann either. but the island has a friendly monkey. so you forget about the speakers for now, and hang out with the monkey for a few days getting to know each other. eventually you use the speakers for wind chimes outside your hut since you have no way to power them. one day an amp comes floating up in a water/shockproof crate with a solar panel for power and 10 feet of speaker wire. its a giant sealed black box that you cannot open. it has a power switch, an input jack with a cord that just happens to fit the connection on your coconut powered radio, a volume knob, a sticker that says 'i use an output transformer' and labeled hookup points for 4,8, and 16 ohms. thats all you know and all you're gonna know. its damn heavy though so you get the bamboo car and transport it back to your hut. but now the monkey is getting jealous and angry. you arent paying so much attention to him any more. after hooking up the coconut radio, but before you can listen to any of the speakers he grabs them and takes off running. suddenly you hear him yelling from across the island so you get in your bamboo car and ride across to see what's up. there he is on the cliff and he is going to throw your speakers back into the ocean with the rest of your stuff!!! egads!!! you get 3 seconds to decide. you can only save one speaker. which speaker do you save and why? randy > next to the speaker quality itself, the output xfmr has a lot to do with > sound quality... but the particular impedance used is not the most > important > factor. Higer impedances are used for long speaker runs, ie, 70v line > distro systems or the older 25V line types. For higher impedances, more > turns of tranny wire are used, so you could say the lower impedance taps > might be "better". But, there are many factors in tube amp ( and xfmer) > design. > > Overall, I say at least 80% of sound quality is the speaker type and > system, given the same wattage amps (even comparing solid state to tube!). > Hows that for throwing down the gauntlet! > > Mark Oppat > Antique Audio near Detroit > > > "xrongor" wrote in message > news:dcg73e$dcdv$1@news3.infoave.net... >> i just thought i would toss this out as a theoretical case for > discussion... >> >> given that i have an amp which has several taps on the output >> transformer, >> allowing a selection of 4,8, and 16 ohms (amongst others). and i want to >> buy a speaker. and that particular speaker can be found in 4,8, and 16 > ohm >> flavors. same speaker, just different impedances... >> >> now i know its best to match impedances, i.e. if i configure the amp for >> 4 >> ohms, i should use a 4 ohm speaker.... >> >> but is there any 'best match'? if you can choose the impedance, is there >> any reason to choose 16 vs 8 vs 4 ohms? >> >> my gut feeling is that a higher impedance is better, but i cant give any >> particularly good reason why. >> >> all comments welcome. >> >> thx >> randy >> >> >> > > > Article: 320069 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Remember this Zenith 9s262? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122695602.717122.32820@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <1122781942.924038.3930@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 11:47:51 GMT In article <1122781942.924038.3930@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>, garyb@citicom.com says... > > >I haven't had too good of luck doing this. It flattens the veneer, >but now the finish is shot. That's a given considering the heat >factor. Fortunatly I only did one section which now looks well, BAD. >Didn't seem to loosen the glue so I could peel up the veneer and do >this the right way. I think it's time to get a pro to do the >refinishing. I'm just proud of the electrical work I did. At least >that turned out fine. GB. > If you can push by hand the veneer back into the correct positions... Then it is a matter of getting new glue under the veneer and properly clamping the veneer into correct position until it dries. This is where you will need a Needle.... good metal ones can be had reasonably at your local farm store. The idea is to stick the needle through the veneer and add enough glue to be able to push it around under the veneer... add a sheet of wax paper between your veneer and the plates you use to clamp it in place.. and yes you will have to fix the finish when done... that part is easy after you get the veneer glued in place... just be sure that the veneer goes where it should.... before you attempt the above John k9uwa Article: 320070 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: <_U2He.200111$x96.119723@attbi_s72> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 11:49:14 GMT In article , wa2ise@ix.netcom.com says... > > >It's an AM/FM set. A solid state repro set I suspect. >Still, that's not what it's supposed to look like... :-) Yes they have taken a 5 Buck piece of Junk... and successfully turned it into a 2 buck piece of junk! John k9uwa From adouglasatgis.net Sun Aug 7 01:24:28 EDT 2005 Article: 320071 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Anyone have a metal sheer? Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 07:31:25 -0400 Organization: http://newsguy.com Lines: 5 Message-ID: References: <1122793577.623490.36480@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p-319.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!pln-w!spln!dex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news2 Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320071 Hi, The imported-tool outfits sell small bench shears in 3 sizes; mine was well under $100 and does an excellent job on long straight cuts. Alan Article: 320072 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 05:53:10 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> >My > question is simply this: Is it a hard and fast rule that filter caps > absolutely must be replaced in any radio more than 25 or so years old? if you want a simple answer, you definitely should replace all PAPER caps in the radio. i dont think they used that many in 1980 (25 years ago...) someone else may be able to give a better time frame. randy Article: 320073 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 08:06:17 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <643af$42ecbebc$4232bd4e$5142@COQUI.NET> Jeff, WB8NHV wrote: > question is simply this: Is it a hard and fast rule that filter caps > absolutely must be replaced in any radio more than 25 or so years old? My beloved RCA 9K3 is at my son's house. He'd been listening to it regularly for years. No hum, I had rebuilt the chassis and replaced the caps in 1967. He stepped out of the room for a while and came back to to find it full of smoke and stink. Not only did the shorted filter cap cost a new xfmr, he spent several weeks (in the wintertime) having to air out his apartment to get of of the smell plus do some repainting. A timely $3 or 4 spent on new caps and a fuse could have prevented all of that. The cap doesn't have to go to a hard short to cause a transformer failure. Excessive leakage will do it and old electrolytics routinely have high leakage. > My grandmother had a 1936 Silvertone broadcast receiver that still > played well even 40 years later with its original filter capacitors; no > hum or distortion she (or I) ever noticed in all that time. The only > strange thing I noticed with that radio was that it would pick up one > very strong 50kW local station at two places on the dial--its normal > frequency (1220 KHz) and also somewhere down at the low end of the > broadcast band. Was it normal for old radios like that to suffer from > cross-modulation such as I just described? These are IF images and yes, its typical of radios (new and old) without a tuned rf stage. The image will appear at twice the IF frequency below the desired signal. On shortwave it is usually worse since the circuit selectivity is not as good as on BCB. Cross-modulation is something different. Thats when two strong stations combine to 'create' a third signal. Example, a station at 1400 mixing with one at 750 would create a undesired signal at 650. Thats usually not a major problem in tube sets unless the signals are very strong. Some transistor sets of the 60s-70s can be rather bad in this respect. -Bill Article: 320074 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: 'best match' of impedance? Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 12:18:23 GMT Gee, the last time I was at Gilligan's island (which is a real place by the way, Salt Cay in the Bahamas, where they filmed the TV show) I don't recall seeing any monkeys with speakers. I did pick up a couple of neat conch shells, and they're sitting on a shelf next to a wood Silvertone farm radio that I bought for five bucks at the Sarasota swap meet the day after hurricane Charley. If I did see a monkey that was about to throw all my sound gear into the ocean, I'm not sure if I would want to save the speaker or the amp -- one's not usable without the other. If it was down to saving one of the speakers, I'd pick the one in best condition after all that punishment. Or, maybe pick the higher impedance one because it might be usable as a microphone, if I rearrange the components in the amp to make a transmitter to yell "Help, I'm stranded on a desert island with a monkey that has turned into an audiophool!" Now, seriously, after 80-some years of making amps and speakers, the industry has determined that low impedances work well for speaker outputs, with 8 ohms being the all-around best standard. Maybe someone thinks 10 ohms is better, or 6 ohms, but there is really no difference between them -- so why not stick with an industry standard of 8 ohms? If you go to 4 ohms or even 2 ohms, you can get more power in a car using the 12 volt supply -- but the disadvantage is that any resistance in the wiring will cause a power loss, so you should use heavier wire when connecting these and be careful with your connections. Of course heavier wire costs more, but it's hardly a concern when you're only going a few feet. Speakers that go long distances, or speakers that will be connected in parallel, should have higher impedances, either to match the amp's output, or just to provide as little loss as possible over long stretches of wire. Thus, 25v or 70v for PA systems. Performance-wise, all other factors being the same, if you walk into a room with a stereo using 8 ohm speakers, another room with a stereo using 16 ohm speakers, and yet another room with a stereo using 4 ohm speakers, you're not going to tell the difference. Maybe some audiophool or nit-picky design engineer can tell you about inductance or hysterysis or something, but I can assure you, you won't hear the difference. Those guys who make $80,000.00 tube amps and wires that sell for $20,000/foot haven't come up with a better standard than 8 ohms. Unless you have a good reason to go otherwise, stick with 8 ohms. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "xrongor" wrote in message news:dcidcl$ehse$1@news3.infoave.net... > let me try this one more time. im trying to be clear in my stipulation > that the speakers perform identically (and fully realize this is a real > world impossibility), but apparantly im not. i tried making the example > more specific and that made things worse... maybe if i go to an extreme > abstraction and include some humor we can eliminate some of these other > variables that keep creeping back in... > > so sit right back and hear my tale. my tale of a fateful trip. > > its you. alone on a tiny boat in the tropics with three cases of speakers > and all the test equipment in the world. for some reason instead of > enjoying your boat trip, you have conducted a battery of tests and have > concluded that you have found three identical speakers. identical in > EVERY POSSIBLE way except one. speaker 1 has 4 ohms impedance, speaker 2 > has 8 ohms, and speaker 3 has 16 ohms. so you're on a 3 speaker tour. a > 3 speaker tour. > > (lightning strike) > > but the weather starts gettin rough and all your test equipment gets > tossed in the ocean along with all the speakers except for your 3 > identical ones. if not for your courage, the 3 speakers would have been > lost. how fearless of you!! > > finally the ship sets ground on an uncharted desert island. with speaker > 1, and speaker 2. speaker 3, and its wife.. ok no wife. no mary ann > either. but the island has a friendly monkey. so you forget about the > speakers for now, and hang out with the monkey for a few days getting to > know each other. eventually you use the speakers for wind chimes outside > your hut since you have no way to power them. > > one day an amp comes floating up in a water/shockproof crate with a solar > panel for power and 10 feet of speaker wire. its a giant sealed black box > that you cannot open. it has a power switch, an input jack with a cord > that just happens to fit the connection on your coconut powered radio, a > volume knob, a sticker that says 'i use an output transformer' and labeled > hookup points for 4,8, and 16 ohms. thats all you know and all you're > gonna know. its damn heavy though so you get the bamboo car and transport > it back to your hut. > > but now the monkey is getting jealous and angry. you arent paying so much > attention to him any more. after hooking up the coconut radio, but before > you can listen to any of the speakers he grabs them and takes off running. > suddenly you hear him yelling from across the island so you get in your > bamboo car and ride across to see what's up. there he is on the cliff and > he is going to throw your speakers back into the ocean with the rest of > your stuff!!! egads!!! > > you get 3 seconds to decide. you can only save one speaker. which > speaker do you save and why? > > randy > > >> next to the speaker quality itself, the output xfmr has a lot to do with >> sound quality... but the particular impedance used is not the most >> important >> factor. Higer impedances are used for long speaker runs, ie, 70v line >> distro systems or the older 25V line types. For higher impedances, more >> turns of tranny wire are used, so you could say the lower impedance taps >> might be "better". But, there are many factors in tube amp ( and xfmer) >> design. >> >> Overall, I say at least 80% of sound quality is the speaker type and >> system, given the same wattage amps (even comparing solid state to >> tube!). >> Hows that for throwing down the gauntlet! >> >> Mark Oppat >> Antique Audio near Detroit >> >> >> "xrongor" wrote in message >> news:dcg73e$dcdv$1@news3.infoave.net... >>> i just thought i would toss this out as a theoretical case for >> discussion... >>> >>> given that i have an amp which has several taps on the output >>> transformer, >>> allowing a selection of 4,8, and 16 ohms (amongst others). and i want >>> to >>> buy a speaker. and that particular speaker can be found in 4,8, and 16 >> ohm >>> flavors. same speaker, just different impedances... >>> >>> now i know its best to match impedances, i.e. if i configure the amp for >>> 4 >>> ohms, i should use a 4 ohm speaker.... >>> >>> but is there any 'best match'? if you can choose the impedance, is >>> there >>> any reason to choose 16 vs 8 vs 4 ohms? >>> >>> my gut feeling is that a higher impedance is better, but i cant give any >>> particularly good reason why. >>> >>> all comments welcome. >>> >>> thx >>> randy >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> > > Article: 320075 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42ECC56D.8000507@nycap.rr.com> From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: A different signal tracer References: <42EBE769.30108@socal.rr.com> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 12:34:42 GMT I got mine a few years back with some other NRI course material. I have a copy of the manual and an article from the NRI journal on using the tracer, let me know if you need one. Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > I recently bought this on eBay. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7528307836 > > The schematic for it was available on BAMA. > ftp://bama.sbc.edu/downloads/nri/ > > Now, to look at it, you would assume, as I did, "Oh boy, it > has a built in signal generator!" > > Nope. That's a 4 band TRF receiver. > > The Audio probe works as expected. Touch probe, listen to > the buzz. > > The RF probe, on the other hand, is really the signal input > to a two stage tuned RF receiver. The Audio pre-amp tube > also has a pair of diodes in it as an AM detector. > > A nice quite afternoon project re-capping it and putting an > IEEC power connector on the back, and now I have yet another > vintage, but usuable, piece of test equipment for the shop. > > I think I'll take it into work and amaze people by using it > to test Motorola GP300 Hand helds. It works quite well on > narrow band FM as a slope detector. > > Think of it as one of the original "Service Monitors." > > Jeff > Article: 320076 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jon" References: Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 12:42:59 GMT "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:nx2He.200093$x96.126152@attbi_s72... > Yes you can short the inner and outer of the coax. Or just use the Outer > as your Up Wire to the attic.... then add more length to the attic wire. > > the other way... yes sort of you can use a 9/1 at that antenna... but > you also have to use another one at the radio end to get the low impedance > back up to high impedance for the radio.... That thought occurred to me after thinking about it alst night - a little costly. > > plus you have lost the receiving ability of the 50 feet of drop wire > from attic to radio..... That's the idea. My run from the attic to the basement is going to be in close proximity to other stuff: plumbing, Cat5, telco, cable tv and remex, so I was looking for as much shielding from that noise as possible. > > John k9uwa > -- Jon Scaptura Endicott, NY See my antique radios here: http://www.scaptura.com/radio/gallery/Antique_radios Article: 320077 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jon" References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 12:48:12 GMT "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:sH2He.202114$_o.182629@attbi_s71... > In article <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>, > jeffhs@ameritech.net says... >> >> >> Jeff, WB8NHV (mailto: jeffhs@ameritech.net) > > Agree with Mark and William... replace the caps .. it is cheap > insurance. > > The Image Frequency you mentioned.. notice that the IF frequency > of these radios is 455 times 2 = 900 and that your hearing > these stations 900 Khz down from correct frequency... Mixer > tube will take the Osc Frequency and the input freq.. and it will > provide both the SUM and the Difference as outputs etc... > > anyway.... your radios that get these stations low on the dial... > they don't have enough tuning in them to prevent it from happening > on very strong signals. Added Tuned RF stages do help.. > John k9uwa > My Pioneer car radio does the same thing. 1430 shows up at 530. I just chalked it up as cheap design overloaded by the strong local signal. -- Jon Scaptura Endicott, NY See my antique radios here: http://www.scaptura.com/radio/gallery/Antique_radios Article: 320078 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: 'best match' of impedance? Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 07:00:12 -0600 Message-ID: References: > Those guys who make $80,000.00 tube amps and wires that sell for > $20,000/foot haven't come up with a better standard than 8 ohms. Unless > you have a good reason to go otherwise, stick with 8 ohms. i think this is about as good of an answer as i can expect to my silly question. and a damn good answer too! it just seems to me that a common real world situation is where you are going to get a speaker for an amp you already have and you have to make a choice about impedance. sure it would be nice to order 20 different drivers and take them all for a testdrive, but that isnt always practical. or a case where both the amp and the speaker are configurable and you need to pick one. just wondering what others thoughts were regarding this. well im glad the seaweed internet connection is still running well. but i gotta split before that monkey gets mad again! randy Article: 320079 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 09:11:58 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: A different signal tracer References: <42EBE769.30108@socal.rr.com> <42ECC56D.8000507@nycap.rr.com> Message-ID: Lou deGonzague wrote: > I got mine a few years back with some other NRI course material. I have > a copy of the manual and an article from the NRI journal on using the > tracer, let me know if you need one. > > Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > >> I recently bought this on eBay. >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7528307836 >> >> The schematic for it was available on BAMA. >> ftp://bama.sbc.edu/downloads/nri/ >> >> Now, to look at it, you would assume, as I did, "Oh boy, it >> has a built in signal generator!" >> >> Nope. That's a 4 band TRF receiver. I'd be real tempted to make it regenerative and have a nice little receiver :) -Bill Article: 320080 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <42EBC544.D906F153@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:30:21 GMT "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:BNXGe.199688$x96.179189@attbi_s72... > In article <42EBC544.D906F153@earthlink.net>, mike.terrell@earthlink.net > says... > Stuff I use is... > > Multi-Meter Fluke DMM autoranger... after I got used to this autoranger > I sold off all the VTVM's I had.... I just bid on a Simpson bench DMM on eBay, but here we go again . . . I went to pay with Paypal, and it didn't give me a final figure because there's no shipping charge. So I e-mailed the seller, no response. Hoo boy! The good news is that I haven't paid anything yet, so the ball's in the other guy's court. My B&K worked before, but was flaky. I disassembled it, cleaned all the switches, and put it together. Doesn't work at all. Later I disassembled it again, had a connector on wrong . . .now it works great, but I still think I'd like the Simpson. It's always good to have at least two of the "essential" test pieces; I'll put these others on the bench in the garage. I may or may not use them there, but a spare is always handy to have around in case one quits. For this reason I think I may bid on one of those B&K VTVM's. > > Tenma Cap checker for checking correct pF on small mica caps etc.. > I've got an L/C meter, a kit from Almost All Digital Electronics. It is probably my most used piece of test equipment, other than the VTVM, but I didn't mention it because it's not exactly a "bench" unit -- it's a pocket tester, although I'm tempted to Velcro it to the wall. When doing conversions for car radios, often I need to check the inductance of the LO coil at the low and high end. Sometimes I'm not sure which soldering posts are for the LO, and sometimes I can't quite get a radio to calibrate properly -- this thing measures inductance to .01 microHenrys, and can tell me exactly where I stand with tuning coils. I wouldn't use it much in servicing, but for conversions it's essential. Doggone, if it would check caps for leakage I wouldn't need the Eico. > Signal Jenny .. here an HP-8640 with downconverter.. you would also need > the downconverter as well if you do the 8640 thing..... otherwise the > lowest frequency is 450 Khz.... you and I both need 262 and sometimes > 50 Khz... and they need to be accurate... your simple generator with > the digital freq meter is also OK... Mine works fine for the job it does, but if I had a better/newer/smaller one I'd put this one on the "other" bench. One thing I'd like to see is a "memory" where I could push a button and get 262, push another and get 1kHz, etc. Yes, I'm getting visions of someone telling me to get a pushbutton car radio and some coils . . . actually I HAVE a Delco radio tuner with clip leads that I use for troubleshooting. If a conversion won't calibrate or tune for some reason, I can substitute this tuner. The other good news is that Sarasota has a local radio station at 88.1, and another at 107.9. > > Toob Testers.... your fine with what you have... Hickok is nice but > most arent any better than your 747 ... I use my hickok when I want > to "Sell Toobes" to the AudioPhools.... they wanna see.... In the olden days it seems everyone had a 747; now everyone's got a Hickok. My 747 works fine, but for some reason doesn't have the snob appeal of the Hickok. My other Precision is a moldie oldie with the top cover missing, and I seriously doubt that it's a mutual conductance -- but it seems to do the job with the old four-pin types. I'm still kicking myself for destroying a Precision tester I used to have, for parts. This was a big silver dude, had tube sockets for everything from four pins to miniature (but not Compactrons), and even had a transistor tester. I still have the clip leads for the transistor part. This would be a perfect tester for the purpose -- I don't mess with TV sets, so who cares about Compactrons. This would be a great mutual conductance tester for any radio tube, from the 01A on up. But (sniff) it's gone. > > > signal tracer .. still like my Eico 147A ... in Florida I use a little > Heathkit... does the same thing.. It's VER-RY close, but I've decided on keeping the Eico 150 over the 147. The 150 is smaller, solid state, and doesn't have the .01 cap in the AC line that makes sparks fly and meters go crazy. I'll miss the eye tube, but I'll just have to get used to that teeny little VU meter. The 147 will go to the "other" bench -- but do any of you guys have spare probes for sale? Yes, maybe I could make some up, but I'm lazy . . . > > Scope is a Techtronix 2215... dual trace 60 Mhz ... more than adequate > for any use I have of it... most of the time it just sets on the end > of the bench and looks good when customers come in here... once in > a while I use it... > Oh yes -- the HP is a 100mHz dual trace, and it sits there to impress people. If radio buddies come over, I'll put a piece of electrical tape over the nameplate. But most people come to me with radios because they can't do it themselves, so they don't know the difference. To be honest, I don't use the scope very much -- again, this is radio. About the only thing I use it for is to check the LO, and who needs a 100mHz dual trace triggered sweep for THAT? The other day I saw an Eico scope at Sarasota Electronics for $5, and was tempted -- but the problem is size. If I could get a small simple one that fits on the bench, it would be a lot handier. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 320081 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: paulSPAM@paulsherwin.co.uk (Paul Sherwin) Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:35:59 GMT Message-ID: <42ecd1f1.9877112@news.demon.co.uk> References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> On 30 Jul 2005 22:09:17 -0700, "Jeff, WB8NHV" wrote: > I read with interest the post from the person who will soon come into >possession of an antique Philco radio. When I read in one of the >replies that all caps, including the 3-section filter in the power >supply, must be replaced in any radio that old, however, I thought >immediately of my 54-year-old Zenith H511 table model. That radio still >has its original filter cap and, to the best of my knowledge, most of >its original parts, and still works very well. There really is no hard and fast rule about this. Smoothing electrolytics usually fail open circuit, producing a loud hum that is impossible to ignore but little other damage. If they short or go very leaky they can indeed take out a power transformer or rectifier, though this would require the listener to ignore obvious signs of distress for several minutes (poor sound, hum, hot smells, smoke etc.). The majority of paper caps will be leaky to some degree now. The only one that it's *essential* to change is the output tube grid coupling cap, since if this is leaky it can take out the output tube and output transformer. Personally I change all the paper caps but leave the electrolytics alone unless they're faulty. It may make sense to change them for improved future reliability though, especially if the set is being renovated for sale or for a non-enthusiast. Best regards, Paul -- Paul Sherwin Consulting http://paulsherwin.co.uk Article: 320082 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Robert McLean" References: Subject: Re: my sick kitty....help! Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 09:33:34 -0400 "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:e8qdnaytOtg6gXHfRVn-1A@comcast.com... > This is VERY off topic, but we have two cats. One has taken very ill... > a > 7 year old "russian blue"., the friendliest cat ever, and we really love > her dearly. Normally she is all over and super active... she watches TV > with us, sleeps in our bed, etc and is very vocal. > > But now she wont eat or drink at ALL, and hid in the closet starting > Wednesday morning. We took her in, had blood test done, neg for Feline > Leukemia. Xrays seemed to show a small liver and bloated stomach... but > really an ultrasound would be needed to see that.... and, we havent done > that and arent sure if we will because, well, what can you do if it shows > a > bad liver anyways. The vet had no real ideas...gave her antibiotics and > said shoot some mush food into her mouth and water, which we are doing... > which she seems to keep down but its not much food or water compared to > her > usual. She is a 12 lb , normally strong cat. > > Both our cats are house and yard cats... they dont wander out, and neither > are hunters AT ALL... this cat in question did get out the other night as > she has occassionally, but never has had any fights. (has all claws).. she > stays very close. Both cats are female and fixed. > > Most cats we've had were elderly when they had similar apparent organ > failures, or feline leukemia, so they were put down... but, this is > really > a GREAT cat, a close personal friend...she would come in my shop and say > "hi" at night...never damaged anything... would sit on one of the knob > bins > and watch.... > :( > This all seemed to come on suddenly. We were out for 4 days and left them > food and water as we have in the past, with no problems. This cat likes > to > drink from the bathroom faucet, sometimes several times a day, like > whenever either of us go in there she'll ask for the water on a little. > Could our abscence have kept her from drinking and started this??? > > So, my question is... any cat owners in our group here that have had this > condition, and what can you tell us??? > I have looked at several websites with no great ideas... > > > Mark Oppat (and Leann...) > > > One of our 2 cats had the same sort of symptoms earlier in the year. He went from 19 pounds to 13 pounds in a few weeks, and seemed to be in pain. He is about 15 years old. The vet diagnosed either liver failure or kidney failure, I just cannot remember now which. She suggested either having him put down, or that we be taught how to inject water under his skin and massage it around to alleviate his discomfort. We said we would think about it. After a few days he seemed to pick up. Both cats seemed to no longer like the cat food we were giving them, so we changed brands, and then he started behaving normally again. He now eats more than he used to. He has not gained any of his weight back, nor has he lost any more, but he seems otherwise to be his old self again. The change in cat food may simply have been a coincidence, it is not the first time they have gone off a certain brand or flavour of food. Article: 320083 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:53:56 GMT "-ex-" wrote in message news:c8898$42ec0623$4232bd98$29304@COQUI.NET... > > Gary, since you do a lot of monkeying with the LC stuff in car radios I'm > surprised you didn't mention an LC meter like the AADE one. > Yes, I have one, and it's one of my "essentials." But I didn't mention it because it's a tiny little handheld that I set aside when not used. My "portable" stuff includes a resistor sub box, a few DMM's, an ISO-Tip soldering iron, and a jerry-rigged Delco tuner with clip leads. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 320084 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: 'best match' of impedance? Message-ID: <5R4He.853$ns.560@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:01:37 GMT RE: Speaker with configurable impedance Radio Shack used to make such a speaker. It was a replacement speaker for car radios, available in 6x9 and 5x7, I don't remember if they had a 4x10. It was a darn good speaker for the purpose, designed to match up with an AM or early AM/FM radio with medium fidelity. I was sorry to see them go. These speakers had several tabs on them, and a couple of jumper leads. If you want 16 ohms, connect the speaker here and put the jumper there. If 8 ohms move it over here. For 4 ohms, you get the idea. They were cheap, they were efficient, and they sounded really good for what they were. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "William Sommerwerck" wrote in message news:QeCdnepP5fjgU3HfRVn-hg@comcast.com... >> or a case where both the amp and the speaker are configurable >> and you need to pick one. > > I've never seen a speaker with "configurable" impedance. It would increase > the speaker's price for no obvious benefit. On the other hand, Sony once > made a power amp with a configurable power supply. When used with a > low-impendance speaker, you moved a jumper that reduced the B+, but > increased the current the amp could deliver. > > By the way, that amp had the most-beautiful, best-feeling, sexiest, power > switch I've ever seen on any product of any kind. > > >> I was just wondering what others' thoughts were regarding this. > > The consensus -- even among audiophools -- is that the amp should be put > next to the speaker and connected with the shortest possible length of > cabling, with the preamp-to-power-amp interonnect being as long as needed. > This is the way my system is set up -- the control center feeds an > electronic crossover near the power amps, which are close to the speakers. > > In many cases, though, this arrangement might be making virtue out of a > necessity, as a lot of power amps are big and run hot, and it makes sense > to > put them on the floor where they'll get plenty of air. > > > Article: 320085 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: 'best match' of impedance? Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 08:52:05 -0600 Message-ID: References: <5R4He.853$ns.560@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net> "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:5R4He.853$ns.560@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net... > RE: Speaker with configurable impedance > > Radio Shack used to make such a speaker. It was a replacement speaker for > car radios, available in 6x9 and 5x7, I don't remember if they had a 4x10. > It was a darn good speaker for the purpose, designed to match up with an > AM or early AM/FM radio with medium fidelity. I was sorry to see them go. > > These speakers had several tabs on them, and a couple of jumper leads. If > you want 16 ohms, connect the speaker here and put the jumper there. If 8 > ohms move it over here. For 4 ohms, you get the idea. They were cheap, > they were efficient, and they sounded really good for what they were. ive seen some PA gear with different jacks for different impedance too. randy Article: 320086 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic From: Larry References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 11:05:57 -0400 "Jon" wrote in news:Tc2He.720$0m1.417@twister.nyroc.rr.com: > I was intending on using a balun in the attic: > http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/ice/reconly.html#Beverage%20Matc > hing to match between the coax and antenna. However, if you don't > think that will be a good idea, I'll just tie the conductor and shield > together at both ends of the coax, as it's already in place. > > 50 ohms probably would be OK if you also put a 50 to Hi-Z balun at the RADIO end of the coax, too! These old radios aren't low-Z input impedances, they're high like your car radio. -- Larry Article: 320087 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Janssen Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:21:59 GMT Jon wrote: >"John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message >news:nx2He.200093$x96.126152@attbi_s72... > > > >>Yes you can short the inner and outer of the coax. Or just use the Outer >>as your Up Wire to the attic.... then add more length to the attic wire. >> >>the other way... yes sort of you can use a 9/1 at that antenna... but >>you also have to use another one at the radio end to get the low impedance >>back up to high impedance for the radio.... >> >> > >That thought occurred to me after thinking about it alst night - a little >costly. > > > >>plus you have lost the receiving ability of the 50 feet of drop wire >>from attic to radio..... >> >> > >That's the idea. My run from the attic to the basement is going to be in >close proximity to other stuff: plumbing, Cat5, telco, cable tv and remex, >so I was looking for as much shielding from that noise as possible. > > > >>John k9uwa >> >> >> > > > > I suggest that an antenna tuner be installed at the receiver. Then all kinds of antennas could be tried / used. Bill K7NOM Article: 320088 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Northe Osbrink Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:24:40 GMT Jon, Jon wrote: > Since my new workshop is in the basement, I'm thinking of stringing a wire > from one end of the attic (unfinished) to the other end to use as an > antenna. I was thinking of using RG-6u to reach the attic from my workshop, > about a 50' run. The antenna will be about 35' long. I think in a later reply you indicated that you already had the coax installed. You might want to try this as an experiment: go ahead and install the antenna, then short the center conductor to the shield at the antenna end, use the center conductor to connect to the radio and do not ground the shield at all. If I recall correctly, the theory is that the signals coming from the antenna are propagated on both the center conductor and shield in the same phase, while noise that would be picked up by the feedline propagates on the shield in one direction and is induced in the center conductor in 180 degrees out of phase and therefore cancels. I got this tip from material written by a really old-timer. I tried it many years ago and it _seemed_ to help with the noise level. If it doesn't seem to help, you can always go with baluns at both end of the feedline. Northe N6KO Article: 320089 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps From: Larry References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 11:27:38 -0400 "Jeff, WB8NHV" wrote in news:1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com: > Was it normal for old radios like that to suffer from > cross-modulation such as I just described? It's called "image rejection". In a superhet receiver the RF signal is mixed, usually in a tube called a converter, with a tunable oscillator. The industry agreed long ago to use 455 Khz as the IF frequency for most all radios because it's cheap to give them the 10 Khz bandwidth of one station at this frequency and FCC doesn't license stations at 455 Khz. The oscillator frequency tracks 455 Khz below the dial frequency on the AM band. So, 1460 Khz station freq puts the oscillator on 1005 Khz. However, the converter tube is also capable of converting other stations 455 Khz away from the oscillator, BELOW the oscillator's frequency. 1005 Khz - 455 Khz = 550 khz. So, being as this station is SO strong, some of its signal leaks through the RF stage of the receiver tasked with blocking out this image. It gets converted and is another signal fed to the 455 Khz IF amps for you to hear. If there was a station on 550, you'd hear both of them plus a slow beat note from the two carriers. The way we eliminate this problem in communications receivers is to use more extensive tuned circuits in the antenna and RF amplifier stages. Modern HF receivers take a new tactic...UPconversion. The oscillator, now a synthesizer digitally controlled, converts the HF receive frequency to VHF putting the image so far away from the desired frequency there's no way of it passing through the RF amp's circuitry, which may not even have a tracking tuned circuit! Then, the first IF's high frequency is downconverted to the 455 Khz band for bandwidth control or just forget that and use a higher frequency ceramic or crystal IF filter at the high frequency, say 40 Mhz, in the first place. I used to have a little Atlas HF transceiver made like this. The front end was a very sensitive hot carrier diode mixer with a broadband ferrite input matching transformer. The IF was something like 20-something megahertz with a very sharp, 2.4 Khz SSB filter also used for the transmitter IF. The mixer was a ring of diodes with the oscillator input at the other corners of the ring. There was no front end tuning at all! -- Larry Article: 320090 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Antenna in the attic References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:30:29 GMT Jon wrote: > "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message > news:nx2He.200093$x96.126152@attbi_s72... > > >>Yes you can short the inner and outer of the coax. Or just use the Outer >>as your Up Wire to the attic.... then add more length to the attic wire. >> >>the other way... yes sort of you can use a 9/1 at that antenna... but >>you also have to use another one at the radio end to get the low impedance >>back up to high impedance for the radio.... > > > That thought occurred to me after thinking about it alst night - a little > costly. Twin aperture ferrite cores are cheap. 5 turns of #30 wire on the coax side, and 15 turns on the antenna and/or radio side. If you're using RG-6, then you have 9 * 75 = 675 ohm impedance available at the "high" side of the transformers. If you use seperate windings, both the "ends" will be isolated >from ground. You can also wind the transformers as autotransformers, i.e. 5 turns across the coax, then 10 more turns in series with the center conductor to raise it up to 675 ohms. The autotransformer is easier to wind, twist three strands of wire together, thread 5 turns through the core, then match up the ends into 3 series connections. It has very good coupling and will work across the entire broadcast band, and shortwave bands. The cores I use are about 1/2 or 3/8 in square and about 3/16 or 1/4 thick with two holes through them. Jeff -- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin "A life lived in fear is a life half lived." Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom" Article: 320091 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1122780621.783601.207280@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Pawnshop goes high tech, slightly OT Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 16:02:40 GMT It doesn't require high tech -- if you're interested, the price goes up! -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "ego_te_demitto" wrote in message news:1122780621.783601.207280@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... >I was visiting a pawnshop on Denver/Aurora's notorious East Colfax > strip Wednesday. In the past I have found some nice older HiFi > equipment at reasonable prices. A new pawn chain has bought the shop > and was repricing the stock. I was looking at a high-end surround sound > receiver that had been priced at $299 and then had been moved to the > "doesn't work" shelf. I asked about it and one of the workers took it > to the testing station and finally coaxed it to work without the remote > (must have one to get it to work right). He input the old info into > their new wizbang system and came up with a new price of $480. He said > they get info from Orion Bluebook and old Ebay sales and then crunch > numbers per some formula to calculate a price. He said the new price > accounted for the lack of remote and lack of documentation. I wonder > if/when radio collecting/buying/selling will degrade itself to this > level? Take info from the popular price guides, factor in Ebay sales, > geography, condition, etc....here's a price. It could be done, maybe > already is. > Article: 320092 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 09:24:16 -0700 Message-ID: <4247-42ECFB30-465@storefull-3176.bay.webtv.net> References: >From Larry: >The oscillator frequency tracks 455 Khz >below the dial frequency on the AM >band. So, 1460 Khz station freq puts the >oscillator on 1005 Khz. However,.. Umm.. this would be low-side injection, and not practical for BCB coverage. In order to track the entire BC band, the osc. would have to cover from 95khz to 1205khz - a tuning ratio of more than 12 to one(!). High-side injection on the other had, requires the oscillator to cover 1000khz to 2105khz - a ratio of just a bit over 2 to 1 (compared to 3 to 1 for the BCB itself). Bill(oc) Article: 320093 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Message-ID: <0b7He.7879$6f.3165@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 16:41:32 GMT Now for the fight. In this corner, we have someone who insists on replacing ALL the electrolytics every three weeks, no matter what. In THIS corner we have a fellow who is busy "forming" old electrolytics with his Eico 147 . . . Use your own descretion. In older radios, typically 1960 and before, most capacitors were made of foil rolled up in paper, covered with wax. These sticky brown paper caps, after many years, will corrode from moisture which has seeped through the wax, and begin to leak current. On a typical car radio (where I have tested old caps after removing them, just to see), you can expect 8 out of 10 caps to test bad. With those 1600v buffers, seems they're ALL bad. Molded or mica caps are much better, but they can also fail. I typically don't mess with these unless I suspect them to be bad. Modern day caps are generally ceramic-dipped, and are more reliable -- because they're newer of course, and because they are better sealed from moisture. So the standard procedure among those who rebuild radios is to replace all the paper capacitors with new ceramic-dipped type. Electrolytics are a horse of a different color. Instead of an air or paper dielectric, this cap is filled with a chemical (electrolyte) and sealed. The electrolyte increases the capacitance value tremendously, thus allowing for large capacitance values within a reasonable amount of space. There is a small amount of chemical activity that takes place as these function, and this remains normal as long as the device is used; however if it sits for a long time, the electrolyte can dry up, increasing the chance of failure. This is why radios that are used regularly have good electrolytics, and radios that sit for years have bad ones. Sometimes people find stashes of old NOS electrolytics, and "form" them. If the operating voltahge is increased slowly (over a period of several hours) the chemical reaction can return to normal and the capacitor will again function like new, as long as it is used regularly. However if a radio is put into use, this alone will keep the electrolyte in its normal state. So -- if the filters appear good, and you intend to use the radio on a regular basis, you probably don't need to change them. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Jeff, WB8NHV" wrote in message news:1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > I read with interest the post from the person who will soon come into > possession of an antique Philco radio. When I read in one of the > replies that all caps, including the 3-section filter in the power > supply, must be replaced in any radio that old, however, I thought > immediately of my 54-year-old Zenith H511 table model. That radio still > has its original filter cap and, to the best of my knowledge, most of > its original parts, and still works very well. There may be some small > amount of hum in the sound with the loop antenna disconnected, but with > a strong signal any hum which may be present isn't noticeable. My > question is simply this: Is it a hard and fast rule that filter caps > absolutely must be replaced in any radio more than 25 or so years old? > My grandmother had a 1936 Silvertone broadcast receiver that still > played well even 40 years later with its original filter capacitors; no > hum or distortion she (or I) ever noticed in all that time. The only > strange thing I noticed with that radio was that it would pick up one > very strong 50kW local station at two places on the dial--its normal > frequency (1220 KHz) and also somewhere down at the low end of the > broadcast band. Was it normal for old radios like that to suffer from > cross-modulation such as I just described? The same thing happens here > where I live; there is a 1kW (500 watts nights) radio station about > five miles from me that comes in on its assigned frequency (1460 kHz) > and also 560 kHz (900 kHz difference). The problem occurs with all my > AM radios except my Zenith Royal 1000-1 TransOceanic; the reason that > radio isn't affected by this problem, I think anyway, is that there is > an RF stage ahead of the Wavemagnet and the SW Waverod antennas; my > other sets do not have this extra stage, including all four of the > other Zeniths in my collection. > > Kind regards, > > Jeff, WB8NHV (mailto: jeffhs@ameritech.net) > Fax: 216-274-9513 > Fairport Harbor, Ohio USA > Article: 320094 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42ED0144.F6DED02C@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: 'best match' of impedance? References: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 16:50:32 GMT William Sommerwerck wrote: > > > or a case where both the amp and the speaker are configurable > > and you need to pick one. > > I've never seen a speaker with "configurable" impedance. It would increase > the speaker's price for no obvious benefit. On the other hand, Sony once > made a power amp with a configurable power supply. When used with a > low-impendance speaker, you moved a jumper that reduced the B+, but > increased the current the amp could deliver. There were several companies building dual voice coil speakers through the '60, '70s, and '80s. I didn't keep track after that, but according to Google, they are readily available Results 1 - 100 of about 185,000 English pages for dual voice coil speakers. (0.26 seconds) -- Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted after threats were telephoned to my church. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 320095 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: CTC-10 testing - B&W... and purple Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 09:46:58 -0700 Message-ID: <26100-42ED0082-75@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> References: <88upe1d4q22655d0om43ak954pltmhs0qk@4ax.com> Frenchy, I don't have the schematic, but have you checked continuity of *all* coils or inductors associated with the oscillator? Look for anything that could cause loss of coupling between the osc. and the demods. Bill(oc) Article: 320096 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "radionutz" References: <1122605104.712981.199030@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122732710.774936.55900@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Philco radio/lamp 53-706 Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 16:56:57 GMT Ron sent me a note that he would get back to me soon. Here is another thing that I am trying to find about it. Does anyone have a picture of how the lamp looks without the shade on it? I want to try to somewhat duplicate it if I can't find any orginal parts for it. I tried radio attic archives but it isn't there and a Google search of 53-706 brings up too much junk to sift through. BTW, does anyone have lamp parts that they would want to sell? If so let me know. DON "No longer amused" wrote in message news:1122732710.774936.55900@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Ron has models documented in the master list for most if not all the > 1950s. I wouldn't worry, as I found my '55 there (they changed the > model codes about that time so mine was a C???) > Article: 320097 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42ED046D.7F8F266E@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: CTC-10 testing - B&W... and purple References: <1122448486.717348.4460@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 17:04:01 GMT frenchy wrote: > > OK I slugged the chassis back onto my bench and I've checked the > reactance coil and it is reading almost zero resistance so that doesn't > seem to be it. And swapping tubes in and around didn't help, and they > all tested ok anyway. Is there a way to test the 3.58 crystal besides > putting another one in? Is it a common thing that that crystal could > fail? I don't have any extras but I have a tube-type crystal in my > ctc-5, wonder if I could just swap that one in there with alligator > clips to see if it then syncs up? I need to go back tommorrow and > start checking resistors in that area too. Thanks...Frenchy Do you want some colorburst crystals? I have plenty that I will never use. -- Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted after threats were telephoned to my church. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 320098 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42ED04A8.1C14594D@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: CTC-10 testing - B&W... and purple References: <1122448486.717348.4460@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <24903-42E779AC-8@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net> <1122798666.312554.136160@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <88upe1d4q22655d0om43ak954pltmhs0qk@4ax.com> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 17:05:00 GMT Andy Cuffe wrote: > > What's wrong with using an oscilloscope to see if it's oscillating? > Andy Cuffe The scope probe can kill the oscillation. -- Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted after threats were telephoned to my church. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 320099 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42ED09D6.801335A9@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: CTC-10 testing - B&W... and purple References: <1122798666.312554.136160@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <6929-42EC9A7C-546@storefull-3174.bay.webtv.net> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 17:27:06 GMT Bill Sheppard wrote: > > Frenchy: > If you go to sub that crystal, don't do it with alligator > clips. Too much added capacitance. Tack it directly in place. > Truthfully, i've never seen one cause the oscillator to > quit. First time for everything, and no way to tell but to sub it. > Bill(oc) I have replaced about a half dozen colorburst crystals over the years that were dead, and a few that couldn't be pulled to give the proper tint. I was repairing old TVs to sell, and most of the sets were ones other shops had given up on. I used to get defective color TV sets for a couple dollars each, and could fix about half of them, because the other half had bad CRTs. Also, ECG and NTE carried replacement crystals in their standard line, so they had to be failing in some sets. One of them was the ECG 358. -- Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted after threats were telephoned to my church. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 320100 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "William R. Walsh" References: Subject: Re: sick kitty update... good news! Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 17:46:33 GMT Hi! > Well things have SUDDENLY turned better for our kitty...! Congratulations for you and your cat! That is wonderful news. Let's hope that she keeps up on the road to recovery. :-) I didn't have a cat here (until I found a kitten roaming around the farm and took it home) but a while back an English Setter puppy I had here did a similar thing...it just started laying around the house and acting totally lifeless. As I remember, the dog had a temperature too. Not sure of what to do, I just let it rest and made sure it was comfortable. After a day or two the dog was back to his somewhat-rowdy self. > So, super thanks to all for ideas., you guys are great, and sorry for the > OT... we are greatly relieved today. I'm new to the group, but I don't think the odd OT post here and there hurts anything...especially not when it is about something near and dear to you. :-) William Article: 320101 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: Subject: Re: sick kitty update... good news! Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:30:19 -0500 "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:JoGdnW1eyenRkXDfRVn-1g@comcast.com... > Well things have SUDDENLY turned better for our kitty...! Your a good cat dad Mark ;) B.H. Article: 320102 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Randy or Sherry Guttery Subject: Re: OT: sick kitty update... good news! References: Message-ID: <7eaHe.30979$h.22536@bignews6.bellsouth.net> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:10:56 -0500 Mark Oppat wrote: > and sorry for the > OT... we are greatly relieved today. If (some) people here can't "handle" this group being a "family" (warts and all) then screw'em! Glad you cat is better! best regards... -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com Article: 320103 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Pawnshop goes high tech, slightly OT Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 13:52:43 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1122780621.783601.207280@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> ego_te_demitto wrote: > I was visiting a pawnshop on Denver/Aurora's notorious East Colfax > strip Wednesday. In the past I have found some nice older HiFi > equipment at reasonable prices. A new pawn chain has bought the shop > and was repricing the stock. I was looking at a high-end surround sound > receiver that had been priced at $299 and then had been moved to the > "doesn't work" shelf. I asked about it and one of the workers took it > to the testing station and finally coaxed it to work without the remote > (must have one to get it to work right). He input the old info into > their new wizbang system and came up with a new price of $480. He said > they get info from Orion Bluebook and old Ebay sales and then crunch > numbers per some formula to calculate a price. He said the new price > accounted for the lack of remote and lack of documentation. I wonder > if/when radio collecting/buying/selling will degrade itself to this > level? Take info from the popular price guides, factor in Ebay sales, > geography, condition, etc....here's a price. It could be done, maybe > already is. > $480.00 for a piece of gear that has to be "coaxed to work"? Dream on! Oh, I forgot....It's a pawnbroker....They are clueless when it comes to electronic goods. It's amazing how clueless. I've seen unreasonably priced equipment sit in these shops for two years unsold because the broker won't get a clue and lower the price. This is not classic gear either, but ordinary junk you can buy at Costco and Circuit City. Given how rapidly most categories of consumer gear depreciate in value now, It's amazing that these shops continue to accept it at all. The only reason I continue to go into these places at all is that once in a great while, one of them will acquire something really cool and/or unusual. I have seen someone at the swaps around here with a detailed price listing of Heathkit gear, many pages long. It was apparently derived >from eBay listings and looked a lot like something you'd see on wall street, with bid, ask, and average pricing for each item. Such a price-setting model may be here sooner than you think. -Scott Article: 320104 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Pawnshop goes high tech, slightly OT Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:19:20 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1122780621.783601.207280@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Stephanie Weil wrote: > In article <1122780621.783601.207280@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, > ego_te_demitto wrote: > > >>(must have one to get it to work right). He input the old info into >>their new wizbang system and came up with a new price of $480. He said > > > And I betcha they only paid $50 or $100 to the the burglar or poor > desperate soul who brought it in to hock. A long time ago I fell on hard times and was forced by limited finances to live in a really crappy neighborhood. The place I lived in was a truly the living embodiment of the cockroach-infested hellhole. One of my neighbors had a serious drug problem and one day he got a bad case of the wanna-wannas and broke into my place and ripped off some of my stuff. What was taken was pretty worthless.....It was mostly stuff that I had acquired a few weeks earlier for next to nothing from an electronics repair shop that had gone bust. Almost nothing worked right, and a few of the items had been cannibalized for parts. I didn't even bother filing a police report. A few weeks later, I noticed that some of these items were promonently displayed in a local pawnshop a few blocks down the street. I decided to walk in and tell the guy running the place exactly what he was dealing with. I told him the items were stolen, I told him they didn't work, and I even told him that the items were likely to be infested with roaches. None of these revelations caused his facial expression to change even a little bit....It was like "yeah, whatever....". I checked back a week or so later, and he still had the stuff for sale. Be Barrrry Barrry careful when purchasing anything from a pawnshop. -Scott Article: 320105 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 15:38:08 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> where do you usually put this fuse, same place as the standby switch, after the rectifier and b4 the filter caps? thx randy > AND the "B+" line (150miliamp or so). > > Mark Oppat Article: 320106 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: CTC-10 testing - B&W... and purple Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 14:35:48 -0700 Message-ID: <24903-42ED4434-483@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net> References: <42ED09D6.801335A9@earthlink.net> >From Michael A. Terrell: >I have replaced about a half dozen >colorburst crystals over the years that >were dead, and a few that couldn't be >pulled to give the proper tint. Could you describe the symptoms of a 'dead' crystal? I've replaced a few too, for tint or phasing issues, but not specifically for a dead oscillator. Bill(oc) Article: 320107 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Pawnshop goes high tech, slightly OT References: <1122780621.783601.207280@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <0FbHe.2269$5g.2231@tornado.socal.rr.com> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 21:46:36 GMT Scott W. Harvey wrote: > The only reason I continue to go into these places at all is > that once in a great while, one of them will acquire something > really cool and/or unusual. Speaking of which. The other day I dropped into a pawn shop and found a Milwaukee right angle drill. (Based on the heavy duty drill, not the monster Hole Hawg. I already have a new one of those, but don't like getting thrown off the ladder when it hits a nail.) Checking amazon.com, they list for $425, sell for $237 and I picked it up used in decent condition for $100. As Scott says, sometimes they have deals. Jeff -- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin "A life lived in fear is a life half lived." Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom" Article: 320108 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:20:25 GMT In article , maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net says... > > > >have done is post 1930 and different type filters but I hear conflicting >views when it comes to these pre-30 paper filter caps. > >Bruce > > Why would you think that earlier caps would be better than later ones?.. the only difference in the pre-30 sets is that many of them don't have electrolitic filter caps.... they just have large paper/wax capacitors for filtering...... and some of them will work fine..... for a while.. and some of them won't... ever wonder why most all of the older sets had bad interstage transformers?.... Still say... Good and Old or NOS capacitor do NOT belong in the same sentence!.... Now..... If your old radio is not going anyplace other than your home.... and no one but you will ever play it.... and you won't walk out of the room for a few minutes to go to the can or the frig for a beer..... then if the old caps work.... its fine with me if you leave them in the radio... just don't come here looking for a new power tranny with some story about I just went to answer the phone and came back to room full of smoke..... Since I do this as a sorta business..... we rebuild about 150 radios per year.... times 12 or 13 years.... and somewhat less than 150 per year prior to 12 years ago..... thats someplace around 2000 radios that we have restored ..... now out of those 2000 radios that we sold most of with a years warranty on them.... 4 or 5 have had to come back for some electrical problem... most of the 4 or 5 were well after the years warranty expired..... and we still fixed them for free ... most of the ones that did croak.... had 6x5 rectifier tubes in them and took out the power tranny... that was before I quit using tubes for 6x5 radios!... SO.... doing it "Our Way" with probably 80% of those radios in the hands of Non-Electronic type people.... our success rate is something on the order of 98% .... so like Geico.... we are traveling the country trying to get to 100% satisfaction!.... Flame Suit On... John k9uwa Article: 320109 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: OT: sick kitty update... good news! References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:21:31 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > Well things have SUDDENLY turned better for our kitty...! "No funeral? Great, help me get this frigging tie off..." http://boners.com/grub/793152.html Jeff -- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin "A life lived in fear is a life half lived." Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom" Article: 320110 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT: sick kitty update... good news! From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:31:58 GMT In article , moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet says... > > >OT... we are greatly relieved today. > >Mark and Leann > > > Excellent... Glad Kitty is better... keep feeding her.... bet she does the #2 pretty soon.... John, Jean & Tiger (14 year old persian) and Baby Strat ( 1 year old Manx) Article: 320111 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Randy or Sherry Guttery Subject: Re: CTC-10 testing - B&W... and purple References: <42ED09D6.801335A9@earthlink.net> <24903-42ED4434-483@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <1kcHe.20533$G71.17058@bignews3.bellsouth.net> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 17:33:51 -0500 Bill Sheppard wrote: > Could you describe the symptoms of a 'dead' crystal? I've replaced a few > too, for tint or phasing issues, but not specifically for a dead > oscillator. Symptom? as in NO lock even when the burst gate, etc. are fine... Open crystal weren't all that uncommon in the early days - I remember both Toshiba and Hitachi used a crystal that was in a glass envelope (not unlike a small tube) that I replaced several of in the mid 60's... best regards... -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com Article: 320112 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Yuck !!! From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122776618.036970.92280@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:43:41 GMT In article , noone@home.com says... > >I look VERY carefully under them before >getting anywhere near them! >Larry Brown Recluse are a lot worse the Black Widows... watch for them! John k9uwa Article: 320113 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Georg Richter" <520066970381-0001@T-Online.de> Subject: Re: sick kitty update... good news! Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 01:00:16 +0200 Message-ID: References: Mark Oppat wrote: > Well things have SUDDENLY turned better for our kitty...! I hope the little motor is running as well soon ... > THAT was the real moment of truth for us, because this cat LOVES to drink Keep the Whiskey bottles safe ;-) I hope that elder animals will not forget to drink enough, like most elder people do as usual. Best whishes! Kind Regards Georg (unfortunately no place and no time for kitty tigers) Article: 320114 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Anyone have a metal sheer? Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:01:52 -0400 Brian has kindly offered to make our chassis bottom cover. Peter " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:p0WGe.159350$go.45490@fed1read05... > Need a bottom pan cut for a small chassis. > > Pete > > Article: 320115 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: <1122211291.630476.63540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122525966.637263.237640@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Farewell to a dear friend... Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 23:12:33 GMT I believe the text book is Mac Gruder's, and a booster shot of knowledge was given in US government in high school too. Omer P.S. If you weren't home schooled and, you paid attention to what you were being taught, you would remember these federally required classes! "William Sommerwerck" wrote in message news:w-KdnUdqMpG3WXHfRVn-gQ@comcast.com... >> Out of curiosity, what faith or deity do you belong to that inspires you >> interpret the principles of our constitution to suit your personal > religious >> beliefs? > >> I read your thread a couple of times and compared it to my eighth grade > and >> high US government text books, and the official, textbook explanation of > the >> basics of our government and your diatribe don't seem to go into sync! > > Since when do eighth-grade textbooks -- aimed at ignorant and > intellectually > pliable kiddies -- provide valid explanations of social and political > principles? > > Other than his comment about unredeemed mankind headed for Hell, I find > myself largely agreeing with lbrty4us's analysis. If I might add my own > point... Christianity stopped being Christianity when it became the Roman > state religion. > > Article: 320116 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" Subject: Aluminite kit prices Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:15:58 -0400 What do they charge for their two diffrerent size casting kits? Pete Article: 320117 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Aluminite kit prices Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:26:01 -0400 Alumilite! Correction. " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:ZYcHe.159463$go.71523@fed1read05... > What do they charge for their two diffrerent size casting kits? > > Pete > > Article: 320118 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Scharf Subject: Re: Yuck !!! References: <1122776618.036970.92280@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:00:35 -0400 Jeff, WB8NHV wrote: > As much as I enjoy collecting antique radios (I have five vintage > Zeniths here), I would definitely not want any radio that had been > urinated in, pooped on, etc. by cats, no matter how rare the set was > (yes, I'd even pass up a Zenith 6V27 1938 battery set, or any of the > sought-after Zenith consoles, if cats had been at them first! I hope you never find a 25 tube Strat with the cat on the INSIDE! Article: 320119 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Scharf Subject: Re: my sick kitty....help! References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:03:44 -0400 Lou deGonzague wrote: > I am a cat lover, we have a 15 yr old female that is an outdoor cat and > lives for hunting. One night she got in a terrible fight with a stray > cat and didn't come home for three days. It took a while for her to get > over it. She might have been traumatized by another animal. Keep her in > and try to treat her to some special food like tuna fish or boiled chicken. > Why not try chicken soup? Article: 320120 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: HPGrn Subject: Re: Aluminite kit prices Message-ID: References: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 00:05:53 GMT On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:26:01 -0400, " Uncle Peter" wrote: >Alumilite! Correction. > >" Uncle Peter" wrote in message >news:ZYcHe.159463$go.71523@fed1read05... >> What do they charge for their two diffrerent size casting kits? >> >> Pete >> >> > http://www.hobbyengineering.com/SectionBM.html Third hit on a Google search..... Article: 320121 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT: sick kitty update... good news! From: Larry References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:32:55 -0400 "Mark Oppat" wrote in news:JoGdnW1eyenRkXDfRVn-1g@comcast.com: > So, super thanks to all for ideas., you guys are great, and sorry > for the OT... we are greatly relieved today. > I've never seen any newsgroup so supportive. Glad kitty is on the road to recovery...(c; -- Larry Article: 320122 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Yuck !!! From: Larry References: <1122776618.036970.92280@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:35:48 -0400 k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) wrote in news:xucHe.228685$xm3.156918@attbi_s21: > Brown Recluse are a lot worse the Black Widows... watch for them! > John k9uwa > > South Carolinians are WELL acquainted with the Brown Recluse spiders.... They are also very hard to kill with pesticides.... -- Larry Article: 320123 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Aluminite kit prices Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:40:00 -0400 "HPGrn" wrote in message news:uppqe1dv3rq6c0qomr1sh1sg60br1ed232@4ax.com... > On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:26:01 -0400, " Uncle Peter" > > > http://www.hobbyengineering.com/SectionBM.html > > Third hit on a Google search..... Close enough to judge the average prices, I guess. I was going factory direct, and they want you to call for a price. Nothing listed on the website. Pete Article: 320124 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: Re: Aluminite kit prices Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 18:50:37 -0600 Message-ID: References: Wow...that's neat stuff...I've never seen it before !!! Ben " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:HbeHe.159475$go.104583@fed1read05... > > "HPGrn" wrote in message > news:uppqe1dv3rq6c0qomr1sh1sg60br1ed232@4ax.com... >> On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:26:01 -0400, " Uncle Peter" >> > >> http://www.hobbyengineering.com/SectionBM.html >> >> Third hit on a Google search..... > > Close enough to judge the average prices, I guess. > > I was going factory direct, and they want you to call for a price. > Nothing listed on the website. > > Pete > > > Article: 320125 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: newbieguy Subject: Re: Philco 52 - 940, worth restoring? Message-ID: References: <95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com> Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 00:51:44 GMT Hi John, Thanks for the reply. I've read a couple of your other replies as well. If I pay a local outfit to have it restored, in the neighborhood of what do you think it should cost me? On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 03:02:54 GMT, k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) wrote: >In article <95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com>, >geepondy@hotmail.com says... >> > >For about 10 bucks in capacitors and postage you to can have this >radio back in correct working condition... > >tubes?... it doesn't need any is my guess since it still hums... > >replace the 3 section filter capacitor with 3 individual 47 Mfd @ >160 volts... plus any wax/paper capacitors that are in it... >not sure but perhaps it has a couple black beauty caps if >someone repaired it in the late 50's early 60's ... they need >replacing... any ceramic caps that are in it should be fine... > >don't go tweaking the screws in the thing... replace the caps >and then see how it plays.... > >John k9uwa > Article: 320126 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Keith Park" References: <1122776141.011866.50500@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: OT: my sick kitty....help! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 01:16:08 GMT REALLY? I use Lestoil on the kitchen floor, and sometimes they walk across it when its still wet, havent had a problem but sounds like I should use something else... especially as the cats get older. -- Keith > Any disinfectant that goes from clear-to-cloudy when water is added > typically is phenol-based even if not listed in the ingredients as > such. DO NOT keep them in the house if you have cats. BTW, this > sensitivity is common to the entire species from Tigers on down. > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA Article: 320127 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 21:19:24 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Farewell to a dear friend... References: <1122211291.630476.63540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122525966.637263.237640@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122853739.739927.126920@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: William Sommerwerck wrote: > Children are too-often presented complex issues reduced to nitwit pabulum. What about adults? Have you watched broadcast tv news lately? > Turning children into critical thinkers is not something "those in power" > want. It requires questioning everything you think is right, regardless of > your current social or political point of view (left or right or otherwise). > This simply doesn't occur in public schools in this country. Given how > conservative society has become since Bonzo's presidency, any teacher trying > to speak truth to the innocent little kiddies would quickly be labeled a > traitor (literally) and fired. > > Sorry William...and to anybody else that thinks you can TEACH critical thinking to youngsters. You can expose them to all sides of an issue and make some very visible points but if its not in their nature to question issues then they simply won't. You make the example of "since Bonzo's presidency"...most of the voting age public was born well before then and went to school well before then and have a historical apathy about dealing with social and political minutia so your little attempt at partisan political spin falls short. I don't disagree that the public schools dodge SOME of the issues of the day but as far back as I can remember (I started 1st grade in 1959) they never did include such as part of the public curriculum. My 14 year old can tell you a whole lot more about homosexuality and American Imperialism than I ever could at that age so I happen to think you are dead wrong. He's also been taught how to deal with child molesters in lieu of being able to find Iraq on a map. I don't think issues like this point to a conservative grade-school environment. In fact, I think its quite the opposite. -Bill Article: 320128 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: <1122211291.630476.63540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122525966.637263.237640@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122853739.739927.126920@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Farewell to a dear friend... Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 01:29:29 GMT Been to a parochial school too, of the Franciscan Order to be exact. My best grades were form the religion class. One thing I greatly respect from parochial schools, they've seen it all! If I am not mistaken, isn't Roman Catholic clergy banned by its church from participating in congress and the judiciary system. Back twenty-five years ago, there was a congressman from San Diego that was permitted to finish his term when this rule came in to play by the Vatican. Omer "Peter Wieck" wrote in message news:1122853739.739927.126920@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > William: > > Clearly you did not go to decent schools. I went to Catholic School > from 1st to 12th grade. > > My 8th grade Christian Doctrine teacher stated: If anyone here remains > a "true believer" at the end of this year, I have failed. > > My 9th Grade history teacher (English Benedictine Monk) was the one who > started each and every teaching day with -- QUESTION AUTHORITY-- on the > blackboard. > > That continued for four years. Different teachers, but _EVERY_ history > class at that school started with that premise. The position of the > school was that "received knowledge" was both dangerous and largely > inaccurate. Funny thing as I have retained that predudice ever since > and done everything in my power to inculcate that same prejudice into > the kids. It seems to have taken. > > William, with all due respect, those in positions of power are not > necessarily 100% corrupt. I am Prep-School/Ivy League, and I grew up in > academia. Helen and Scott Nearing were family friends (When I was ~10 > years old, Scott Nearing and I spend one productive Sunday afternoon > turning over logs looking for snakes - In Maine). He was near 90 at the > time... but he could lift a BUNCH more than I could when it came to > rolling big logs. > > Stop with the "ignorant and intellectually pliable kiddies"... it ain't > necessarily so. > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA > Article: 320129 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: <1122856389.775076.243410@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Calling Philip I. Nelson Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 01:30:21 GMT ABSOLUTELY! That's why trying to find out if I sent to the right email address. Omer "No longer amused" wrote in message news:1122856389.775076.243410@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Did you send through his link? > Article: 320130 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bob Weiss Subject: Re: OT: my sick kitty....help! References: <1122776141.011866.50500@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 01:39:29 GMT Peter Wieck wrote: Pine-Sol, Lysol liquid and many other disinfectant cleaners). > Any disinfectant that goes from clear-to-cloudy when water is added > typically is phenol-based even if not listed in the ingredients as > such. According to the MSDS sheets at: http://www.cloroxprofessional.com/msds/pdf/pine-sol.pdf and http://www.cloroxprofessional.com/msds/pdf/lestoil.pdf , neither Pine-sol nor Lestoil contain ANY phenol. It would have to be listed under the "hazardous ingredients" if it were present. AFAIK, the cloudiness upon mixing with water is an emulsion formed by the pine oil they contain. Lysol liquid, however, IS phenol-based. Bob Weiss N2IXK Article: 320131 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Aluminite kit prices Message-ID: <_3fHe.159482$go.147204@fed1read05> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 21:40:03 -0400 "Benjamaniac" wrote in message news:dcjrl1$f6r8$1@news3.infoave.net... > Wow...that's neat stuff...I've never seen it before !!! > Ben Problem is the RTV mix has a shelf life once opened. So, 30 bucks to make four or five small molds is expensive, and wasteful. Pete Article: 320132 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "sphipps" Subject: Re: my sick kitty....help! Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:55:42 -0500 Message-ID: <11er08uqdtfvha9@corp.supernews.com> References: Cats are like very little kids. They can be terribly sick one day and perfectly fine the next. Like others have mentioned... do you know what the cat ate within a day or so before getting sick? That's a big clue to what's going on. Bloated stomach may mean irritated bowel syndrome, which can take days or weeks to resolve for both humans and animals. "Disturbing" a cat's normal diet, or any domestic animal for that matter, will cause all kinds of weird problems. Good luck and we will be thinking of you. "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:e8qdnaytOtg6gXHfRVn-1A@comcast.com... > This is VERY off topic, but we have two cats. One has taken very ill... > a > 7 year old "russian blue"., the friendliest cat ever, and we really love > her dearly. Article: 320133 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Most extensive restoration Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 18:49:04 -0700 Message-ID: References: <14iGe.10605$oZ.6951@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net> Gary Tayman wrote: > > Yesterday I had someone e-mail me about a 57 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham. He > said the radio itself (tuner) is fine, but the "power unit" has a bad 2N278 > and a bad output transformer. Sounds like he's been to other dealers who > can't fix it. This happens to be the very first factory solid state car > radio ever made, and only made for the one model -- which happened to cost > more than a Rolls Royce that year, and even Cadillac went back to tubes and > hybrids for a number of years. As such, you ain't gonna find a replacement > transformer! Guess what? I HAVE a power unit for a 57 Cadillac Eldorado > Brougham! My next door neighbor had one of those cars...HUGE car, loaded with every conceivable gizmo you could put in an automobile. GM conceived it to compete with the likes of Rolls-Royce and Bentley, and it was a commercial flop. AFAIK, only a couple of hundred were actually produced. It does not surprise me that the radio is unique.....Practically every part for that model of Cadillac is unique. IIRC it has a weird air-bag suspension system that had problems with deflation and leaks. -Scott Article: 320134 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42ED82D7.8F65C4E3@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Yuck !!! References: <1122776618.036970.92280@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 02:03:22 GMT Larry wrote: > > They are also very hard to kill with pesticides.... Not if you hit them hard enough with the can. Anyway I use starting fluid on some of the critters around here You should see a swarm of wasps hit the ground after flying into a cloud of ether. ;-) It only takes a second to suffocate them, but you don't want to do it where there might be an open flame, or a spark, and definitely not in a small space. -- Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted after threats were telephoned to my church. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida From daxtATpacifierDOTcom Sun Aug 7 01:24:44 EDT 2005 Article: 320135 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "David Axt" Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Speaker code ID Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:05:58 -0700 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Message-ID: <11er0ruriq1p0e@corp.supernews.com> Reply-To: "David Axt" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2180 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 X-RFC2646: Format=Flowed; Original X-Complaints-To: abuse@supernews.com Lines: 9 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!headwall.stanford.edu!newsfeed.news2me.com!sn-xit-02!sn-xit-01!sn-post-01!supernews.com!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320135 Does this speaker code mean anything to you? I can't seem to find an EIA code. 155000-007 Thanks, David Article: 320136 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Adney Subject: Re: 'best match' of impedance? Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 21:10:39 -0500 Message-ID: References: On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 09:41:34 -0600 "xrongor" wrote: >but is there any 'best match'? if you can choose the impedance, is there >any reason to choose 16 vs 8 vs 4 ohms? Given the choice, I would go for 8, because it is as close to a standard as you're likely to find. So you will always be able to find an amp which will drive it, should you ever decide to change amps. Plus putting 8 Ohm speakers in series or parallel will give you 16 or 4 Ohms, which is still within your amp's capabilities. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- Article: 320137 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Adney Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 21:10:33 -0500 Message-ID: <9r4qe1tktc7jrkfvf4ptc085tu4609hjsr@4ax.com> References: On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 15:38:13 GMT "Gary Tayman" wrote: >What do you consider to be the best test equipment, either new or vintage, >for working on our older equipment? The first question is, "What are your needs?" So consider your frequency range for each device. Consider what the future might bring, and what would be useful even though you manage to get by without it now. Then look at price and availability. The free tool that falls into your lap is worth a lot more to you than the unobtainable one that you might someday hope to own. Heathkit isn't the greatest stuff, but I have a lot of it. One of it's big advantages is that they mostly use pretty generic parts and you get a manual that will almost always help you fix it when it needs fixing. H/P can't be beat for most test equipment, but it's easy to buy much more than you need, and spend more money. For scopes I prefer Tek, but if you're happy with your HP, stick with it. 100MHz will probably much more than you'll ever really need. >As mentioned in an earlier thread, I was looking at a few multimeters on >eBay, and ended up purchasing a Simpson digital bench meter. For DMMs, I don't think you can do better than Fluke. They've sold so many that they are getting pretty cheap and they are quite durable. I'm one of those who really appreciates a good analog VOM, and my personal favorite is the Heath IM-104 (Weston 6??.) These were made for just a few years in the early 70s and few people have ever heard of them, but they have 10MOhm FET inputs, are battery powered (4 AAs, 1 C), large beautiful meter movement, extreme overload protection, and unbreakable case. I have a spare here if you're interested. >I've got a Heathkit IP-17 variable voltage power supply, and a Heathkit >IG-5218 Sine/Square Audio Generator. These are here to stay, but I'm >curious as to where they rank on the food chain. They're just fine. I think the rational test is whether they ever annoy you or not. >I have a Heathkit IM-4100 Frequency Counter. It's not that old in the >scheme of things, but they've come a long way since I put this one together. >It only goes up to 30 mHz, and that's probably all I need, but it's, well, >not the best and it's a little flaky. Any suggestions? I buy, repair, and resell the HP 5300 series of counters. They are about the same size as your Heath, but consist of a top and bottom half which you can mate together to make the pair you want. You get to choose either 6 or 8 digit displays, plus counters which range from high resolution 2 MHz to 1300 MHz. Small size, beautiful construction, excellent performance, reasonable price. You can buy your own for rather cheap on eBay, and take your chances on whether it is really fully functional or not, or buy one from me all fixed, tested, and calibrated. I can send you a writeup on the line if you're interested. >I have a Heathkit IG-102 RF Signal Generator. It's an oldie, for sure, but >it works. Seems to me those Eico generators weren't bad for what they were, >but what do y'all consider a good one? If the accuracy and stability meet your needs, then you're all set. Otherwise there are lots of older HP choices. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- Article: 320138 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: Re: Aluminite kit prices Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 20:23:35 -0600 Message-ID: References: <_3fHe.159482$go.147204@fed1read05> " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:_3fHe.159482$go.147204@fed1read05... > > "Benjamaniac" wrote in message > news:dcjrl1$f6r8$1@news3.infoave.net... >> Wow...that's neat stuff...I've never seen it before !!! >> Ben > > Problem is the RTV mix has a shelf life once opened. So, 30 bucks > to make four or five small molds is expensive, and wasteful. > > Pete I'm familiar with RTV...we used that when I was in The Air Force Ben. Article: 320139 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 02:30:05 GMT In article , moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet says... > > >sure, its BETTER to change them all out, and if a customer really wants >that, I offer it, but its a PITA as you know. > >Mark Oppat > > > yup thats what I said...the early radios had paper caps... not electrolitics.... yes they are a little better than litics... but are they really any better than later paper caps?... paper caps are paper caps... hate replacing power tranny's in AK-55's and 60's ..... and yes I have done a few... as for it being a PITA to change them all out.... yup... and thats what I do... its either my way or the highway... so far never had a customer refuse to do it my way.. all or nothing..... I won't "Patch" any radio.... they can take it elsewhere.... I don't have time... John k9uwa Article: 320140 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" Subject: Trade/WTB 4-pin snap ring socket Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:34:23 -0400 Looking for one Amphenol mica filled phenolic socket, the style that mounts to the chassis or saddle ring using a flat spiral spring clip arrangement. Must be brown, I have black ones, but this is for a restoration and I'm trying to keep it original. New or used is fine. I don't need a saddle, since it directly mounts to the chassis. I also have a spring, so that isn't a must either. RadioConnection @ Juno (dot) Com thanks Pete this is for a MicaMold XTR-1 restoration for the curious Article: 320141 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Safari TV commercial spotted Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:22:46 -0700 Message-ID: References: William Sommerwerck wrote: > There was a brief view of a man and woman watching a Safari at the beach. > The clip was filmed, and in color. Whether this was a Philco ad (why would > it have been in color in 1959?), or something else, I don't know. But there > it was. If it was intended to air on NBC, it might have been part of a commercial filmed and aired in color. Not too many folks would have seen it that way, of course. More likely, what you saw was probably a clip from some Philco promotional film extolling the virtues of the first all-transistorized (except for the HV tube) TV (A very well engineered set BTW). Philco really went out with a bang. They introduced this set and the Predictas with great fanfare as its parting shots in the late fifties, and then POOF!, they were bankrupt by 1960. -Scott From adouglasatgis.net Sun Aug 7 01:24:46 EDT 2005 Article: 320142 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:18:44 -0400 Organization: http://newsguy.com Lines: 12 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: p-654.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!pln-w!spln!dex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news4 Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320142 Hi, >This would be a great mutual conductance tester Precision never made a Gm tester, so don't worry about it. It was probably a 10-series that measured dynamic emission. There's nothing wrong with HP scopes. I have one on the bench for audio work, a 1200A. It has the sharpest trace of any scope I've ever used, and has required the least servicing: namely none. Alan Article: 320143 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:36:35 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Trade/WTB 4-pin snap ring socket References: Message-ID: <361d3$42ed8ab5$4232be5f$24419@COQUI.NET> Uncle Peter wrote: > Looking for one Amphenol mica filled phenolic socket, the style > that mounts to the chassis or saddle ring using a flat spiral > spring clip arrangement. Must be brown, I have black ones, > but this is for a restoration and I'm trying to keep it original. > > New or used is fine. > > I don't need a saddle, since it directly mounts to > the chassis. I also have a spring, so that isn't a must either. > > RadioConnection @ Juno (dot) Com > > thanks > > Pete I think Radiodaze has them. -Bill Article: 320144 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <9r4qe1tktc7jrkfvf4ptc085tu4609hjsr@4ax.com> Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 02:42:01 GMT Well, I spent the weekend reorganizing the bench. I've got pretty much everything in place, but a few components are not exactly where I'd want them to be. The nice thing about the Heathkit power supply, audio generator, and B&K DMM is that they stack -- they sit on top of each other, making room. The Eico 150 signal tracer sits upright, but the handle sits flat and I put the Heathkit signal generator on top of it. If I used the Eico 147, I couldn't do this. If I had a different RF generator, I might be able to set it on the second shelf. Talking with people, checking eBay and catalogs, and just seeing what's out there, I've determined there's positively no substitute for the Eico Resistance/Capacitance Bridge. For checking caps it's the best that's out there. Sure there are handhelds, but I don't see any that can check for leakage.-- and that's where they usually go bad. Again, it's big, but I'll just have to deal with it. So . . . I'm getting there. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Jim Adney" wrote in message news:9r4qe1tktc7jrkfvf4ptc085tu4609hjsr@4ax.com... > On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 15:38:13 GMT "Gary Tayman" > wrote: > >>What do you consider to be the best test equipment, either new or vintage, >>for working on our older equipment? > > The first question is, "What are your needs?" So consider your > frequency range for each device. Consider what the future might bring, > and what would be useful even though you manage to get by without it > now. > > Then look at price and availability. The free tool that falls into > your lap is worth a lot more to you than the unobtainable one that you > might someday hope to own. > > Heathkit isn't the greatest stuff, but I have a lot of it. One of it's > big advantages is that they mostly use pretty generic parts and you > get a manual that will almost always help you fix it when it needs > fixing. > > H/P can't be beat for most test equipment, but it's easy to buy much > more than you need, and spend more money. For scopes I prefer Tek, but > if you're happy with your HP, stick with it. 100MHz will probably much > more than you'll ever really need. > >>As mentioned in an earlier thread, I was looking at a few multimeters on >>eBay, and ended up purchasing a Simpson digital bench meter. > > For DMMs, I don't think you can do better than Fluke. They've sold so > many that they are getting pretty cheap and they are quite durable. > I'm one of those who really appreciates a good analog VOM, and my > personal favorite is the Heath IM-104 (Weston 6??.) These were made > for just a few years in the early 70s and few people have ever heard > of them, but they have 10MOhm FET inputs, are battery powered (4 AAs, > 1 C), large beautiful meter movement, extreme overload protection, and > unbreakable case. I have a spare here if you're interested. > >>I've got a Heathkit IP-17 variable voltage power supply, and a Heathkit >>IG-5218 Sine/Square Audio Generator. These are here to stay, but I'm >>curious as to where they rank on the food chain. > > They're just fine. I think the rational test is whether they ever > annoy you or not. > >>I have a Heathkit IM-4100 Frequency Counter. It's not that old in the >>scheme of things, but they've come a long way since I put this one >>together. >>It only goes up to 30 mHz, and that's probably all I need, but it's, well, >>not the best and it's a little flaky. Any suggestions? > > I buy, repair, and resell the HP 5300 series of counters. They are > about the same size as your Heath, but consist of a top and bottom > half which you can mate together to make the pair you want. You get to > choose either 6 or 8 digit displays, plus counters which range from > high resolution 2 MHz to 1300 MHz. Small size, beautiful construction, > excellent performance, reasonable price. > > You can buy your own for rather cheap on eBay, and take your chances > on whether it is really fully functional or not, or buy one from me > all fixed, tested, and calibrated. I can send you a writeup on the > line if you're interested. > >>I have a Heathkit IG-102 RF Signal Generator. It's an oldie, for sure, >>but >>it works. Seems to me those Eico generators weren't bad for what they >>were, >>but what do y'all consider a good one? > > If the accuracy and stability meet your needs, then you're all set. > Otherwise there are lots of older HP choices. > > - > ----------------------------------------------- > Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org > Madison, WI 53711 USA > ----------------------------------------------- Article: 320145 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <361d3$42ed8ab5$4232be5f$24419@COQUI.NET> Subject: Re: Trade/WTB 4-pin snap ring socket Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:45:26 -0400 "-ex-" wrote in message news:361d3$42ed8ab5$4232be5f$24419@COQUI.NET... > > > I think Radiodaze has them. > > -Bill Hey Bill, I think OSE and Leeds has that FT-243 ceramic socket you needed... Article: 320146 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <361d3$42ed8ab5$4232be5f$24419@COQUI.NET> Subject: Re: Trade/WTB 4-pin snap ring socket Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:48:33 -0400 "-ex-" wrote in message news:361d3$42ed8ab5$4232be5f$24419@COQUI.NET... > Uncle Peter wrote: > > I think Radiodaze has them. > > -Bill They have the S-ring BLACK phenolics. I need a mica-filled BRWN phenolic. Pete Article: 320147 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: robert casey Subject: Re: Philco 52 - 940, worth restoring? References: <95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 02:58:16 GMT newbieguy wrote: > Hi John, > > Thanks for the reply. I've read a couple of your other replies as > well. If I pay a local outfit to have it restored, in the > neighborhood of what do you think it should cost me? > Hard to say, most of us in this newsgroup do our own radios. Where are you located? Maybe one of us can help you thru the process. Article: 320148 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: robert casey Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 03:19:02 GMT Jeff, WB8NHV wrote: > I read with interest the post from the person who will soon come into > possession of an antique Philco radio. When I read in one of the > replies that all caps, including the 3-section filter in the power > supply, must be replaced in any radio that old, however, I thought > immediately of my 54-year-old Zenith H511 table model. I have found that if the filter cap is in a metal can, it is *usually* good, but if it's in a cardboard tube, almost always bad. Article: 320149 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 23:33:23 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <8b3fd$42ed9805$4232be5f$19267@COQUI.NET> robert casey wrote: > > > I have found that if the filter cap is in a metal can, it > is *usually* good, but if it's in a cardboard tube, almost > always bad. That may apply to 50s-60s radios... -Bill Article: 320150 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: CTC-10 testing - B&W... and purple Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 21:24:21 -0700 Message-ID: <24904-42EDA3F5-92@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net> References: <42ED8009.AC17630B@earthlink.net> >From Michael A. Terrell: >You couldn't get them to work at all. No >output from the burst oscillator at all. Not tryin' to be ornery or picayunish, but it's not a "burst oscillator". It's a referance oscillator, supplying a constant fixed-phase 3.58 signal for comparison to the chroma signal in the demodulators. The 3.58 synchronizing signal for the oscillator apprears for a brief "burst" of only 8 to 10 cycles, riding on the 'back porch' during the horizontal blanking interval. Hence the term burst. The oscillator then free-runs or 'coasts' during the scan period. Bill(oc) Article: 320151 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Mueller Subject: Re: Speaker code ID Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 22:42:10 -0700 Message-ID: References: <11er0ruriq1p0e@corp.supernews.com> On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:05:58 -0700, David Axt wrote: > Does this speaker code mean anything to you? I can't seem to find an EIA > code. > > 155000-007 > > Thanks, > David This looks like a manufacturer's part number. It's probably useless unless you can find a cross reference. Although that information may exist somewhere, it is likely to require more effort to find it than what its worth. -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Article: 320152 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" Subject: ETON-E1-XM Radio/Grundig Satellit 900 Message-ID: <78jHe.7810$Uk3.3967@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 06:17:39 GMT For those that are interested in this radio, you now can download the manual that comes with the E1. ENJOY! regards, Omer web site: http://s33.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=0HSXPOK4M0BWR0C2IVR9JJXDTG begin 666 bb.gif C1TE&.#EA`0`!`(#_`````````"P``````0`!```"`D0!`#L` ` end Article: 320153 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: Subject: Re: OT: sick kitty update... good news! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 07:31:57 GMT What was that saying about nine lives? Or, that cats always land on all fours! Glad to hear the cat is doing OK. Be careful of possible poisons (rat poisons from dying rats) etc. Let all your neighbors know what is going on and what happened, also if its an older cat, their digestive system usually needs to be monitored (as you were doing). The broad spectrum anti biotic administered by the vet was a good thing. All the best Omer "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:vbSdnci9wcXRHXDfRVn-ig@comcast.com... > Larry, > I agree, there are some GREAT folks here! AND, this didnt even break down > into a "dogs vs cats" thing! > > Mark and Leann > > > "Larry" wrote in message > news:Xns96A4D1910B59Enoone@63.223.7.253... >> "Mark Oppat" wrote in >> news:JoGdnW1eyenRkXDfRVn-1g@comcast.com: >> >> > So, super thanks to all for ideas., you guys are great, and sorry >> > for the OT... we are greatly relieved today. >> > >> >> I've never seen any newsgroup so supportive. Glad kitty is on the road >> to >> recovery...(c; >> >> -- >> Larry >> > > > Article: 320154 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42EDD498.65EB9F2D@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: CTC-10 testing - B&W... and purple References: <42ED8009.AC17630B@earthlink.net> <24904-42EDA3F5-92@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net> Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 07:52:14 GMT Bill Sheppard wrote: > > From Michael A. Terrell: > > >You couldn't get them to work at all. No > >output from the burst oscillator at all. > > Not tryin' to be ornery or picayunish, but it's not a "burst > oscillator". It's a referance oscillator, supplying a constant > fixed-phase 3.58 signal for comparison to the chroma signal in the > demodulators. > The 3.58 synchronizing signal for the oscillator > apprears for a brief "burst" of only 8 to 10 cycles, riding on the 'back > porch' during the horizontal blanking interval. Hence the term burst. > The oscillator then free-runs or 'coasts' during the scan period. > Bill(oc) Whatever you say, Bill. I'm out of here, maybe for good. -- Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted after threats were telephoned to my church. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 320155 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: elaich Subject: Re: OKAY THAT'S ENOUGH I ONLY TRIED TO POINT OUT A NEWS STORY Date: 1 Aug 2005 08:10:44 GMT Message-ID: <3l63o3F11090bU5@individual.net> References: <1119127336.187816.117740@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <8Nste.87265$xm3.38036@attbi_s21> <1119296432.504814.313140@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1119461162.380780.95210@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1119486553.708895.119550@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> "Steven Dinius" wrote in news:hGnue.912 $S17.144676@monger.newsread.com: >| >| Peter Wieck >| Wyncote, PA Wow, Peter, new location for you? I thought you were a Brit turned Arab and proud of it? Article: 320156 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: elaich Subject: Re: and the old farts won Date: 1 Aug 2005 08:45:20 GMT Message-ID: <3l65p0F10kkg4U1@individual.net> References: <42bb997c$0$2230$a726171b@news.hal-pc.org> <42ce5ed2$0$2226$a726171b@news.hal-pc.org> "truegridtz" wrote in news:42ce5ed2$0$2226$a726171b@news.hal-pc.org: > Sorry folks, but I had to make a decision and you were the test > specemins. I needed to see how severely you are addicted to hazing > people. Well, I'll agree to one thng. This newsgroup is full of paranoiacs who have long since lost their day and practice exclusion based on their own perceived beliefs, which they reinforce via private emails and gang hazings. But I will tell you one thing. Anyone who thinks they can hear a difference in music based on what caps they have in their amp is another moron. I have some Black Beauties (red print) that I will sell you for X number of 100 dollars each. Also some 12AX7's that go for $220 a piece. Get a clue, idiot. Music was meant to be listened to and enjoyed. You 80s something jerks collect the hell out of things, based on your income, and don't have a clue what the music was about or what it meant to us who grew up with it. Neither do you have any capacity to enjoy it. Now, you're going to come here and tell us what we heard, and why we don't hear it any more? Collect the Bangles, for God's sake. They are more your style. BTW, learn to spell "specimins." Article: 320157 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: CTC-10 testing - B&W... and purple Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 18:51:19 +0900 Message-ID: References: <42ED8009.AC17630B@earthlink.net> <24904-42EDA3F5-92@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net> <42EDD498.65EB9F2D@earthlink.net> "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message news:42EDD498.65EB9F2D@earthlink.net... > Bill Sheppard wrote: > > > > From Michael A. Terrell: > > > > >You couldn't get them to work at all. No > > >output from the burst oscillator at all. > > > > Not tryin' to be ornery or picayunish, but it's not a "burst > > oscillator". It's a referance oscillator, supplying a constant > > fixed-phase 3.58 signal for comparison to the chroma signal in the > > demodulators. > > The 3.58 synchronizing signal for the oscillator > > apprears for a brief "burst" of only 8 to 10 cycles, riding on the 'back > > porch' during the horizontal blanking interval. Hence the term burst. > > The oscillator then free-runs or 'coasts' during the scan period. > > Bill(oc) > > > Whatever you say, Bill. I'm out of here, maybe for good. > -- C'mon Michael. What Bill posted is accurate. I spent all of my misspent youth as a consumer electronics repair tech. Didn't NEED to know that carp to do my job, but HAD to know it to get a CET so I could HAVE my job. CET.. the most God forsaken worthless piece of paper in the electronics industry. It proves nothing, much less that the holder knows what they are doing. Anyway, don't be so sensitive about being corrected.. it's one of the best ways we learn.. I'm sure glad when people do it for me. :) Article: 320158 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: OT: sick kitty update... good news! Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 03:59:19 -0600 Message-ID: References: "Larry" wrote in message news:Xns96A4D1910B59Enoone@63.223.7.253... > "Mark Oppat" wrote in > news:JoGdnW1eyenRkXDfRVn-1g@comcast.com: > >> So, super thanks to all for ideas., you guys are great, and sorry >> for the OT... we are greatly relieved today. >> > > I've never seen any newsgroup so supportive. Glad kitty is on the road to > recovery...(c; yeah its funny. what gets called a flame war in this group wouldnt even blip the radar on most of em... glad ur kitty is better! randy Article: 320160 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42EE0BAD.6B1D5E54@optonline.net> From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment References: <9r4qe1tktc7jrkfvf4ptc085tu4609hjsr@4ax.com> Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 07:46:53 -0400 Hi Gary, I would love to see your bench, can you take a photo and post it on the binaries... Thanks, Sal Gary Tayman wrote: > Well, I spent the weekend reorganizing the bench. I've got pretty much > everything in place, but a few components are not exactly where I'd want > them to be. The nice thing about the Heathkit power supply, audio > generator, and B&K DMM is that they stack -- they sit on top of each other, > making room. The Eico 150 signal tracer sits upright, but the handle sits > flat and I put the Heathkit signal generator on top of it. If I used the > Eico 147, I couldn't do this. If I had a different RF generator, I might be > able to set it on the second shelf. > > Talking with people, checking eBay and catalogs, and just seeing what's out > there, I've determined there's positively no substitute for the Eico > Resistance/Capacitance Bridge. For checking caps it's the best that's out > there. Sure there are handhelds, but I don't see any that can check for > leakage.-- and that's where they usually go bad. Again, it's big, but I'll > just have to deal with it. > > So . . . I'm getting there. > > -- > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > "Jim Adney" wrote in message > news:9r4qe1tktc7jrkfvf4ptc085tu4609hjsr@4ax.com... > > On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 15:38:13 GMT "Gary Tayman" > > wrote: > > > >>What do you consider to be the best test equipment, either new or vintage, > >>for working on our older equipment? > > > > The first question is, "What are your needs?" So consider your > > frequency range for each device. Consider what the future might bring, > > and what would be useful even though you manage to get by without it > > now. > > > > Then look at price and availability. The free tool that falls into > > your lap is worth a lot more to you than the unobtainable one that you > > might someday hope to own. > > > > Heathkit isn't the greatest stuff, but I have a lot of it. One of it's > > big advantages is that they mostly use pretty generic parts and you > > get a manual that will almost always help you fix it when it needs > > fixing. > > > > H/P can't be beat for most test equipment, but it's easy to buy much > > more than you need, and spend more money. For scopes I prefer Tek, but > > if you're happy with your HP, stick with it. 100MHz will probably much > > more than you'll ever really need. > > > >>As mentioned in an earlier thread, I was looking at a few multimeters on > >>eBay, and ended up purchasing a Simpson digital bench meter. > > > > For DMMs, I don't think you can do better than Fluke. They've sold so > > many that they are getting pretty cheap and they are quite durable. > > I'm one of those who really appreciates a good analog VOM, and my > > personal favorite is the Heath IM-104 (Weston 6??.) These were made > > for just a few years in the early 70s and few people have ever heard > > of them, but they have 10MOhm FET inputs, are battery powered (4 AAs, > > 1 C), large beautiful meter movement, extreme overload protection, and > > unbreakable case. I have a spare here if you're interested. > > > >>I've got a Heathkit IP-17 variable voltage power supply, and a Heathkit > >>IG-5218 Sine/Square Audio Generator. These are here to stay, but I'm > >>curious as to where they rank on the food chain. > > > > They're just fine. I think the rational test is whether they ever > > annoy you or not. > > > >>I have a Heathkit IM-4100 Frequency Counter. It's not that old in the > >>scheme of things, but they've come a long way since I put this one > >>together. > >>It only goes up to 30 mHz, and that's probably all I need, but it's, well, > >>not the best and it's a little flaky. Any suggestions? > > > > I buy, repair, and resell the HP 5300 series of counters. They are > > about the same size as your Heath, but consist of a top and bottom > > half which you can mate together to make the pair you want. You get to > > choose either 6 or 8 digit displays, plus counters which range from > > high resolution 2 MHz to 1300 MHz. Small size, beautiful construction, > > excellent performance, reasonable price. > > > > You can buy your own for rather cheap on eBay, and take your chances > > on whether it is really fully functional or not, or buy one from me > > all fixed, tested, and calibrated. I can send you a writeup on the > > line if you're interested. > > > >>I have a Heathkit IG-102 RF Signal Generator. It's an oldie, for sure, > >>but > >>it works. Seems to me those Eico generators weren't bad for what they > >>were, > >>but what do y'all consider a good one? > > > > If the accuracy and stability meet your needs, then you're all set. > > Otherwise there are lots of older HP choices. > > > > - > > ----------------------------------------------- > > Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org > > Madison, WI 53711 USA > > ----------------------------------------------- Article: 320161 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Farewell to a dear friend... References: <1122211291.630476.63540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122525966.637263.237640@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122853739.739927.126920@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122863903.096780.101060@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1122876487.659425.34530@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 13:08:59 GMT No longer amused, aka "our resident useless welfare assisted piece of shit" spewed forth the following: > Is there ANY purpose left in this thread or should it close? It > shouldn't escalate any more than you'd want me to. > > Thank you for your input, one and all, however, this thread is closed > due to fire damage. Who died and left you in charge? Jeff -- "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." Benjamin Franklin "A life lived in fear is a life half lived." Tara Morice as Fran, from the movie "Strictly Ballroom" Article: 320162 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "DumpsterDiver" Subject: Philco Model 87 Questions Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 13:11:37 GMT Finally found an "antique" radio that The Wife actually LIKES in the living room! It's a 1929 Philco 87 "lowboy" with the scallop speaker grille, fancy veneer, and all kinds of decorative "carved" wood doodads. As the cabinet is near mint, the problems now are figuring out how to get it back to original operating performance. And, figuring out how to work the controls. So, here are the questions: The tuning and power controls are straightforward, no problems there. But the volume controls (there seem to be two of them) are tricky. One controls a pot that looks to act as an attenuator, varying the fraction of the antenna signal applied to the primary of the input RF transformer ... OK, I guess that sorta makes sense. But then there's another knob that seems to act as a volume control. This one works a small variable capacitor that's hooked up in parallel with the first section of the tuning condenser gang. Anybody have a copy of the operating instructions that might explain the intended function of this control and how one is supposed to adjust it? The radio plays well enough, but it does have a noticeable level of 60 cycle hum (sounds like true 60 Hz, not the more typical 120 Hz tone). The hum is not bad enough to be annoying on "talk radio", but it is noticeable on the few remaining music stations, especially on soft passages. I have not fiddled with the filter caps (tar-potted can... GACK!), but they do not appear to be excessively leaky (can runs cool, even after hours of continuous operation). I really don't want to get mired in the "tar pit", so maybe a couple of "helper" caps strategically installed in parallel would help? Any harm in using more capacitance than the original? If I recall correctly, these early AC sets with electrodynamic speakers always exhibit a certain amount of hum, no? Any guidelines for how much is normal, and how to measure it? BTW: I have already installed fuses in the #80 rectifier circuit so, hopefully, I'm protected against most potential disasters. Thanks for any help. DD Article: 320165 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Safari TV commercial spotted Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 07:23:26 -0700 Message-ID: References: William Sommerwerck wrote: >>Philco really went out with a bang. They introduced this set and the >>Predictas with great fanfare as its parting shots in the late fifties, >>and then POOF!, they were bankrupt by 1960. > > > Was it as early as 1960? Actually, I was wrong. It was 1962. They were all but done by the very early sixties, though...Too many of the TVs they were producing in that era were dogs, and sales fell off dramatically. -Scott Article: 320166 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Philco Model 87 Questions References: Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 10:44:16 -0400 Looks like item 4 on the schematic. Could be a fine tune, but the way it's shown on the schematic it might have something to do with neutralization??? How is it built, looks like a three trrminal device? Ken DumpsterDiver wrote: > Finally found an "antique" radio that The Wife actually LIKES in the living > room! It's a 1929 Philco 87 "lowboy" with the scallop speaker grille, fancy > veneer, and all kinds of decorative "carved" wood doodads. > > As the cabinet is near mint, the problems now are figuring out how to get it > back to original operating performance. And, figuring out how to work the > controls. > > So, here are the questions: > > The tuning and power controls are straightforward, no problems there. But > the volume controls (there seem to be two of them) are tricky. One controls > a pot that looks to act as an attenuator, varying the fraction of the > antenna signal applied to the primary of the input RF transformer ... OK, I > guess that sorta makes sense. > > But then there's another knob that seems to act as a volume control. This > one works a small variable capacitor that's hooked up in parallel with the > first section of the tuning condenser gang. Anybody have a copy of the > operating instructions that might explain the intended function of this > control and how one is supposed to adjust it? > > The radio plays well enough, but it does have a noticeable level of 60 cycle > hum (sounds like true 60 Hz, not the more typical 120 Hz tone). The hum is > not bad enough to be annoying on "talk radio", but it is noticeable on the > few remaining music stations, especially on soft passages. I have not > fiddled with the filter caps (tar-potted can... GACK!), but they do not > appear to be excessively leaky (can runs cool, even after hours of > continuous operation). I really don't want to get mired in the "tar pit", > so maybe a couple of "helper" caps strategically installed in parallel would > help? > > Any harm in using more capacitance than the original? > > If I recall correctly, these early AC sets with electrodynamic speakers > always exhibit a certain amount of hum, no? Any guidelines for how much is > normal, and how to measure it? > > BTW: I have already installed fuses in the #80 rectifier circuit so, > hopefully, I'm protected against most potential disasters. > > > Thanks for any help. > > > DD > > > > > Article: 320167 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Repeat Post-Spooky the Cat References: Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 10:46:02 -0400 After all, they're people too. Ken Stewart Schooley wrote: > I posted this yesterday and it never showed up on my server. I would > like to know if others got it. If so, maybe I need to make different > arrangements about my server. > > Stewart > > --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > This was in the personals section of the local paper some years ago. I > liked it so much I saved it. Thought you might like it too. > > SPOOKY > > Services were held Thursday for Spooky, 16, of Mentor at Animal Kingdom > Pet Cemetary in Highland Heights. > > Spooky died May 30 at the Animal Emergency Clinic North East in Mentor. > > Born August 26, 1977 in Willoughby Hills, he was a resident of > Painesville for 7 years before moving to Mentor. > > He resided with Bill, Judy, Matt and Dale where he was an avid bird > watcher and chipmunk chaser. > > Survivors include Feline friends, Oliver of Dayton, Beau and Tibbs of > Mentor, Smudge, Mittens, Big Foot, and Tiger of Ontario Canada. Canine > friends, Willow and Tori of Mansfiels, Lady of Mentor, Cujo of > Mentor-on-the-Lake and Reptillian friend, Blade of Mentor. > > His canine friend, Rusty is deceased. From daxtATpacifierDOTcom Sun Aug 7 01:24:51 EDT 2005 Article: 320168 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "David Axt" Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Speaker code ID Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 08:28:23 -0700 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Message-ID: <11esfqvailjdodb@corp.supernews.com> Reply-To: "David Axt" References: <11er0ruriq1p0e@corp.supernews.com> X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2180 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 X-RFC2646: Format=Flowed; Original X-Complaints-To: abuse@supernews.com Lines: 32 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!tethys.csu.net!nntp.csufresno.edu!sn-xit-03!sn-xit-12!sn-xit-06!sn-post-01!supernews.com!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320168 "Jim Mueller" wrote in message news:pan.2005.08.01.05.42.07.565264@nospam.com... > On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:05:58 -0700, David Axt wrote: > >> Does this speaker code mean anything to you? I can't seem to find an EIA >> code. >> >> 155000-007 >> >> Thanks, >> David > > > > This looks like a manufacturer's part number. It's probably useless > unless you can find a cross reference. Although that information may > exist somewhere, it is likely to require more effort to find it than what > its worth. > > -- > Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com > > To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. > Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Thanks. What form does an EIA code take? For example Social Security Numbers are 000-00-0000. David Article: 320169 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Terry" References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Message-ID: Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 14:01:18 -0230 "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:sH2He.202114> The Image Frequency you mentioned.. notice that the IF frequency . > of these radios is 455 times 2 = 900 and that your hearing > these stations 900 Khz down from correct frequency... Mixer > tube will take the Osc Frequency and the input freq.. and it will > provide both the SUM and the Difference as outputs etc... > > anyway.... your radios that get these stations low on the dial... > they don't have enough tuning in them to prevent it from happening > on very strong signals. Added Tuned RF stages do help.. > John k9uwa > Puzzling? Presuming the discussion is all about a superhet with an assumed IF freq. of say, 455 kilohertz? Is it not that most often the Osc. Frequency is 'higher' (or 'above') the signal frequency? Is it possible in this given instance the local oscillator is operating 'lower' than the tuned signal frequency; by the amount of the desired IF frequency. Also says can only receive one station? Local osc. badly out of tune? With the normally 'higher' loc. osc; to tune and receive a signal at 1460 the local oscillator would be operating at 1460 + 455 = 1915 The image frequency would then be 1460 - 455 = 1005. The difference being twice the desired IF or 455 x 2 = 910 (Also btw. 1915 - 1005 = 910!) So unless there was a VERY strong station around 900 to 920 the likelihood of receiving that image frequency as well or instead of the desired signal is somewhat low, but not impossible. (One reason there are more tuned RF circuits ahead of the frequency changer/first detector in higher quality sets?) Again still operating with the oscillator 'above'; the oscillator frequencies and images with the tuning dial at 560 would be; 560 + 455 = 1015 and the image would be 560 - 455 = 105! (not much operating that low in frequency, especially in North America!) And with oscillator operating below and tuned to 560; 560 - 455 = 105 (a very low and unlikely frequency?) and the image would be 560 + 455 = 1015 The other puzzling aspect is that with the BC band local oscillator operating from around 500 + 455 = 955 (roughly one meg.) to nowadays, say, 1710 + 455 = 2165; that is a range of 2165/955 = 2.27 (Something less than three to one). Which is believable, requiring an oscillator tuning cap. change of something of the order of from 25 mmfd to 500 mmfd. See formula for tuned circuit 1/2 pi sq. multiplied by root of L times C. Whereas with the 'lower' osc freq. the freq change would be 1015/105 = 9.7 (virtually ten to one)! Almost an impossible variable capacitor change? Just curious and for discussion. Article: 320170 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Repeat Post-Spooky the Cat From: Wayne Boatwright References: Message-ID: Date: 1 Aug 2005 19:42:01 +0200 On Mon 01 Aug 2005 06:55:20a, Stewart Schooley wrote in rec.antiques.radio+phono: > I posted this yesterday and it never showed up on my server. I would > like to know if others got it. If so, maybe I need to make different > arrangements about my server. > > Stewart That's a great obit, Stewart! You must live in Lake County, or thereabouts. I lived in the greater Cleveland area from 1957-2000, before moving to Arizona. Most of that time I lived on the West Side, but had many friends out east. Cheers, from Millie, Mr. Bailey, Peanut, Peewee, and Popie... -- Wayne Boatwright *¿* ____________________________________________ Give me a smart idiot over a stupid genius any day. Sam Goldwyn, 1882-1974 Article: 320171 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "John Hagman" Subject: Re: Repeat Post-Spooky the Cat Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 17:00:28 -0400 Message-ID: <11et3d5ft93a7ea@corp.supernews.com> References: "Wayne Boatwright" wrote in message news:Xns96A56BFEC93ECwaynesgang@217.22.228.19... > On Mon 01 Aug 2005 06:55:20a, Stewart Schooley wrote in > rec.antiques.radio+phono: > That's a great obit, Stewart! You must live in Lake County, or thereabouts. Actually Stewart hates all cats, and intends this as some sort of sarcastic comment on those who love them. John H. Article: 320172 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "John Hagman" Subject: Re: my sick kitty....help! Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 17:10:21 -0400 Message-ID: <11et3u13nflef7f@corp.supernews.com> References: Mark, get the ultrasound its the only was to know. I plunked down for it for my dog last winter, and though the diagosis was cancer at least I knew and then was able to help him some. The peace of mind was worth the $350-. Think of it as one of those things- a cat restoration- that just costs a lot, oh well..... If she's dehydrated, the vet can tell- but I doubt she'd not drink out of sheer preference for the faucet. They just do that because they have a keen sense of "fresh" water that obviously had survival value. Remeber cat genes evolved in warmer cliamtes than dogs, and the need to be sure about water was far more important. Tropical still water is almost always BAD news, only the streams are safe for a wild cat. Best to you, and good luck!!! John H. Article: 320173 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "John Hagman" Subject: Re: sick kitty update... good news! Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 17:14:02 -0400 Message-ID: <11et44ttdrvh323@corp.supernews.com> References: Great!!! Article: 320174 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "John Hagman" Subject: Re: SWEET!!!! Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 17:19:09 -0400 Message-ID: <11et4f8j8kte939@corp.supernews.com> References: Thank God it's a transistor radio.... John H. Article: 320175 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <9r4qe1tktc7jrkfvf4ptc085tu4609hjsr@4ax.com> <42EE0BAD.6B1D5E54@optonline.net> Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 21:30:55 GMT Yes I can. Particularly while it's clean and uncluttered. I think you'll find it interesting because it's located in a bedroom closet. The good news here is that I can close the bifold doors, and keep the cats from having fun with the small parts that may be laying there (although they're not too bad in this regard). What I want is a bench that allows me to perform conversions, make repairs on car radios, and also tinker with home radios should I ever have the time to do so. I think I'm just about there, and it came out a lot less cluttered than I had expected. For me this is now a livelihood, meaning I really should have a dedicated shop with lots of bench space and room for lots of test equipment and parts. However this is working for me, and it might make for some good inspiration for those who want to keep their house orderly while having space to tinker with old radios. I've still got more cleaning and straightening to do, but when I reach a good point I'll post some photos -- either on my website or on the binaries. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Sal Brisindi" wrote in message news:42EE0BAD.6B1D5E54@optonline.net... > Hi Gary, > I would love to see your bench, can you take a photo and post it on the > binaries... > > Thanks, > Sal > > Gary Tayman wrote: > >> Well, I spent the weekend reorganizing the bench. I've got pretty much >> everything in place, but a few components are not exactly where I'd want >> them to be. The nice thing about the Heathkit power supply, audio >> generator, and B&K DMM is that they stack -- they sit on top of each >> other, >> making room. The Eico 150 signal tracer sits upright, but the handle >> sits >> flat and I put the Heathkit signal generator on top of it. If I used the >> Eico 147, I couldn't do this. If I had a different RF generator, I might >> be >> able to set it on the second shelf. >> >> Talking with people, checking eBay and catalogs, and just seeing what's >> out >> there, I've determined there's positively no substitute for the Eico >> Resistance/Capacitance Bridge. For checking caps it's the best that's >> out >> there. Sure there are handhelds, but I don't see any that can check for >> leakage.-- and that's where they usually go bad. Again, it's big, but >> I'll >> just have to deal with it. >> >> So . . . I'm getting there. >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> "Jim Adney" wrote in message >> news:9r4qe1tktc7jrkfvf4ptc085tu4609hjsr@4ax.com... >> > On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 15:38:13 GMT "Gary Tayman" >> > wrote: >> > >> >>What do you consider to be the best test equipment, either new or >> >>vintage, >> >>for working on our older equipment? >> > >> > The first question is, "What are your needs?" So consider your >> > frequency range for each device. Consider what the future might bring, >> > and what would be useful even though you manage to get by without it >> > now. >> > >> > Then look at price and availability. The free tool that falls into >> > your lap is worth a lot more to you than the unobtainable one that you >> > might someday hope to own. >> > >> > Heathkit isn't the greatest stuff, but I have a lot of it. One of it's >> > big advantages is that they mostly use pretty generic parts and you >> > get a manual that will almost always help you fix it when it needs >> > fixing. >> > >> > H/P can't be beat for most test equipment, but it's easy to buy much >> > more than you need, and spend more money. For scopes I prefer Tek, but >> > if you're happy with your HP, stick with it. 100MHz will probably much >> > more than you'll ever really need. >> > >> >>As mentioned in an earlier thread, I was looking at a few multimeters >> >>on >> >>eBay, and ended up purchasing a Simpson digital bench meter. >> > >> > For DMMs, I don't think you can do better than Fluke. They've sold so >> > many that they are getting pretty cheap and they are quite durable. >> > I'm one of those who really appreciates a good analog VOM, and my >> > personal favorite is the Heath IM-104 (Weston 6??.) These were made >> > for just a few years in the early 70s and few people have ever heard >> > of them, but they have 10MOhm FET inputs, are battery powered (4 AAs, >> > 1 C), large beautiful meter movement, extreme overload protection, and >> > unbreakable case. I have a spare here if you're interested. >> > >> >>I've got a Heathkit IP-17 variable voltage power supply, and a Heathkit >> >>IG-5218 Sine/Square Audio Generator. These are here to stay, but I'm >> >>curious as to where they rank on the food chain. >> > >> > They're just fine. I think the rational test is whether they ever >> > annoy you or not. >> > >> >>I have a Heathkit IM-4100 Frequency Counter. It's not that old in the >> >>scheme of things, but they've come a long way since I put this one >> >>together. >> >>It only goes up to 30 mHz, and that's probably all I need, but it's, >> >>well, >> >>not the best and it's a little flaky. Any suggestions? >> > >> > I buy, repair, and resell the HP 5300 series of counters. They are >> > about the same size as your Heath, but consist of a top and bottom >> > half which you can mate together to make the pair you want. You get to >> > choose either 6 or 8 digit displays, plus counters which range from >> > high resolution 2 MHz to 1300 MHz. Small size, beautiful construction, >> > excellent performance, reasonable price. >> > >> > You can buy your own for rather cheap on eBay, and take your chances >> > on whether it is really fully functional or not, or buy one from me >> > all fixed, tested, and calibrated. I can send you a writeup on the >> > line if you're interested. >> > >> >>I have a Heathkit IG-102 RF Signal Generator. It's an oldie, for sure, >> >>but >> >>it works. Seems to me those Eico generators weren't bad for what they >> >>were, >> >>but what do y'all consider a good one? >> > >> > If the accuracy and stability meet your needs, then you're all set. >> > Otherwise there are lots of older HP choices. >> > >> > - >> > ----------------------------------------------- >> > Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org >> > Madison, WI 53711 USA >> > ----------------------------------------------- > Article: 320176 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: robert casey Subject: Re: Speaker code ID References: <11er0ruriq1p0e@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 21:51:27 GMT David Axt wrote: > Does this speaker code mean anything to you? I can't seem to find an EIA > code. > > 155000-007 > > Thanks, > David > > If what you want to know is its impedance, use an ohmmeter to measure the DC resistance. Its impedance is about 20% higher. Article: 320177 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: OT: sick kitty update... good news! Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 07:35:13 +0900 Message-ID: References: <1122911018.679743.14640@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:OP6dnWu4eMpdPXPfRVn-iQ@comcast.com... > thanks again to all here... the only final symptom the cat has is no meow! > She tries, but nothing comes out, and she used to be very vocal... wonder > what thats all about???? > She may have a sore throat. Our Linus was that way after a two-week illness of some sort.. he got laryngitis. He tried so hard to meow, but it came out as this little scratchy mew.. poor guy. He's back to full strength now, though. Seems like everyone in the house was sick this February.. whatever it was, I've still got a lingering itchiness in my throat from it that makes me cough if I inhale too sharply. At least everyone's back to good health otherwise. Article: 320178 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "William R. Walsh" References: <1122911018.679743.14640@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: OT: sick kitty update... good news! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 22:45:07 GMT Hi! > thanks again to all here... the only final symptom the cat has is no meow! Well, I dunno...but here's another thought. I've got a collie (and the cat) here now. The collie came from a rough life and had some issues with being very nervous. He's over just about all of them now. Anyway, his one favorite trick was to steal socks from laundry baskets and play "keep away" with them. We tried everything to make him stop doing this. One day totally out of the blue the dog started acting very strangely. He'd eat and drink, but periodically you'd hear this "URK" kind of a noise. But if you were to look over, you wouldn't see anything abnormal. Then one day it happened. The dog ended up standing in the hallway, where he proceeded to make very loud "urk" noises repeatedly. A minute or two later there it was--a sock came up and landed on the carpet. My best guess? He swallowed the sock and it never went down. Say what you will about animal intelligence, but I think the incident scared some sense into our dog. He has *never* touched another thing in the laungry again. So maybe your cat is still suffering something in her throat? William Article: 320179 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT: FYI/OBIT--King Faud of Saudi Arabia From: Larry References: <1122881174.869115.146060@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1122902344.924854.51620@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 19:07:19 -0400 "Peter Wieck" wrote in news:1122902344.924854.51620@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com: > It's gonna be a wild ride, hold onto your hats. > > Platinum (NYM) October 05 ($US per Troy oz.) 8/1 13:18 910.20 +$12.30/oz JUST TODAY! The shrinking dollar....$1000/oz in a couple of weeks. Oil is the same price now that it was in 1955. The MONEY is what changed. It's worthless! The Feds just keep printing more and spending it like there is no tomorrow...NASA, foreign wars, foreign aid, giveaways at home, welfare, retirement, socialist security, food stamps...every dollar they spend makes it more and more worthless.... Most people's income hasn't compensated for the DEVALUATION that's been going on since WW2.... -- Larry Article: 320180 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Repeat Post-Spooky the Cat From: Larry References: <11et3d5ft93a7ea@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 19:11:39 -0400 Stewart Schooley wrote in news:nqCdnVwpGusJBnPfRVn-pQ@bright.net: > She is still shy, but is coming around as > she seems to be getting the idea that I am the provider of all good > things. > > See? Bird dinosaurs are much smarter. It only takes them about 15 seconds to figure out who has the FOOD!...(c; -- Larry Can your cat talk?...(c; Article: 320181 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Speaker code ID From: Larry References: <11er0ruriq1p0e@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 19:15:17 -0400 "David Axt" wrote in news:11er0ruriq1p0e@corp.supernews.com: > 155000-007 > Isn't that the part number for the rear muffler bracket for the 1972 Ford Pinto (without AC)? I could be wrong. Might be the lower alternator bracket for the 1988 Monte Carlo (with AC), too...(c; -- Larry Article: 320182 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1122753872.328569.118500@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: FA: The Seeburg Voice - January 1952 Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 23:28:12 GMT "No longer amused" wrote in message news:1122753872.328569.118500@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > > Why are you afraid of a reply, Andreas? Google knows you anyway. > Who is Andreas? I thought the poster was Michael. http://www.arrl.org/fcc/fcclook.php3?call=n9bor&x=11&y=10 jim menning From stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Sun Aug 7 01:24:55 EDT 2005 Article: 320183 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Stephanie Weil Subject: Re: Radiola Record Player References: <1122934802.802343.216990@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6-6dncMO7bRnM3PfRVn-pA@comcast.com> Reply-To: stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Message-ID: User-Agent: slrn/0.9.7.4 (Linux) Lines: 10 Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 00:03:02 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 66.65.49.245 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: twister.nyc.rr.com 1122940982 66.65.49.245 (Mon, 01 Aug 2005 20:03:02 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 20:03:02 EDT Organization: Road Runner - NYC Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!wns14feed!worldnet.att.net!199.45.49.37!cyclone1.gnilink.net!gnilink.net!cyclone.rdc-nyc.rr.com!news-out.nyc.rr.com!twister.nyc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320183 In article <6-6dncMO7bRnM3PfRVn-pA@comcast.com>, Mark Oppat wrote: > The Radiola name was used two ways. first, on most RCA radios before 1932 > or so, then on radios sold thru RCA servicing dealers from 1939+ Was there any connection between the American Radiola and the French brand of the same name? -- Stephanie Weil New York City, U.S.A. Article: 320184 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: Did anyone notice ?? Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 18:39:28 -0600 Message-ID: That flower painted radio that was talked about on here the other day just sold on eBay...for 103 bucks !!!! Amazing huh ?? Ben Article: 320185 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42EEC1A7.4C9D843A@optonline.net> From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: The "BEST" test equipment References: <9r4qe1tktc7jrkfvf4ptc085tu4609hjsr@4ax.com> <42EE0BAD.6B1D5E54@optonline.net> Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 20:43:19 -0400 Great, Looking forword to the photos, I really need to clean up my basement and bench, it is literally 1000 square feet and if you look down, you might see the floor... ;-) Regards, Sal Gary Tayman wrote: > Yes I can. Particularly while it's clean and uncluttered. I think you'll > find it interesting because it's located in a bedroom closet. The good news > here is that I can close the bifold doors, and keep the cats from having fun > with the small parts that may be laying there (although they're not too bad > in this regard). What I want is a bench that allows me to perform > conversions, make repairs on car radios, and also tinker with home radios > should I ever have the time to do so. I think I'm just about there, and it > came out a lot less cluttered than I had expected. > > For me this is now a livelihood, meaning I really should have a dedicated > shop with lots of bench space and room for lots of test equipment and parts. > However this is working for me, and it might make for some good inspiration > for those who want to keep their house orderly while having space to tinker > with old radios. > > I've still got more cleaning and straightening to do, but when I reach a > good point I'll post some photos -- either on my website or on the binaries. > > -- > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > "Sal Brisindi" wrote in message > news:42EE0BAD.6B1D5E54@optonline.net... > > Hi Gary, > > I would love to see your bench, can you take a photo and post it on the > > binaries... > > > > Thanks, > > Sal > > > > Gary Tayman wrote: > > > >> Well, I spent the weekend reorganizing the bench. I've got pretty much > >> everything in place, but a few components are not exactly where I'd want > >> them to be. The nice thing about the Heathkit power supply, audio > >> generator, and B&K DMM is that they stack -- they sit on top of each > >> other, > >> making room. The Eico 150 signal tracer sits upright, but the handle > >> sits > >> flat and I put the Heathkit signal generator on top of it. If I used the > >> Eico 147, I couldn't do this. If I had a different RF generator, I might > >> be > >> able to set it on the second shelf. > >> > >> Talking with people, checking eBay and catalogs, and just seeing what's > >> out > >> there, I've determined there's positively no substitute for the Eico > >> Resistance/Capacitance Bridge. For checking caps it's the best that's > >> out > >> there. Sure there are handhelds, but I don't see any that can check for > >> leakage.-- and that's where they usually go bad. Again, it's big, but > >> I'll > >> just have to deal with it. > >> > >> So . . . I'm getting there. > >> > >> -- > >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com > >> > >> "Jim Adney" wrote in message > >> news:9r4qe1tktc7jrkfvf4ptc085tu4609hjsr@4ax.com... > >> > On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 15:38:13 GMT "Gary Tayman" > >> > wrote: > >> > > >> >>What do you consider to be the best test equipment, either new or > >> >>vintage, > >> >>for working on our older equipment? > >> > > >> > The first question is, "What are your needs?" So consider your > >> > frequency range for each device. Consider what the future might bring, > >> > and what would be useful even though you manage to get by without it > >> > now. > >> > > >> > Then look at price and availability. The free tool that falls into > >> > your lap is worth a lot more to you than the unobtainable one that you > >> > might someday hope to own. > >> > > >> > Heathkit isn't the greatest stuff, but I have a lot of it. One of it's > >> > big advantages is that they mostly use pretty generic parts and you > >> > get a manual that will almost always help you fix it when it needs > >> > fixing. > >> > > >> > H/P can't be beat for most test equipment, but it's easy to buy much > >> > more than you need, and spend more money. For scopes I prefer Tek, but > >> > if you're happy with your HP, stick with it. 100MHz will probably much > >> > more than you'll ever really need. > >> > > >> >>As mentioned in an earlier thread, I was looking at a few multimeters > >> >>on > >> >>eBay, and ended up purchasing a Simpson digital bench meter. > >> > > >> > For DMMs, I don't think you can do better than Fluke. They've sold so > >> > many that they are getting pretty cheap and they are quite durable. > >> > I'm one of those who really appreciates a good analog VOM, and my > >> > personal favorite is the Heath IM-104 (Weston 6??.) These were made > >> > for just a few years in the early 70s and few people have ever heard > >> > of them, but they have 10MOhm FET inputs, are battery powered (4 AAs, > >> > 1 C), large beautiful meter movement, extreme overload protection, and > >> > unbreakable case. I have a spare here if you're interested. > >> > > >> >>I've got a Heathkit IP-17 variable voltage power supply, and a Heathkit > >> >>IG-5218 Sine/Square Audio Generator. These are here to stay, but I'm > >> >>curious as to where they rank on the food chain. > >> > > >> > They're just fine. I think the rational test is whether they ever > >> > annoy you or not. > >> > > >> >>I have a Heathkit IM-4100 Frequency Counter. It's not that old in the > >> >>scheme of things, but they've come a long way since I put this one > >> >>together. > >> >>It only goes up to 30 mHz, and that's probably all I need, but it's, > >> >>well, > >> >>not the best and it's a little flaky. Any suggestions? > >> > > >> > I buy, repair, and resell the HP 5300 series of counters. They are > >> > about the same size as your Heath, but consist of a top and bottom > >> > half which you can mate together to make the pair you want. You get to > >> > choose either 6 or 8 digit displays, plus counters which range from > >> > high resolution 2 MHz to 1300 MHz. Small size, beautiful construction, > >> > excellent performance, reasonable price. > >> > > >> > You can buy your own for rather cheap on eBay, and take your chances > >> > on whether it is really fully functional or not, or buy one from me > >> > all fixed, tested, and calibrated. I can send you a writeup on the > >> > line if you're interested. > >> > > >> >>I have a Heathkit IG-102 RF Signal Generator. It's an oldie, for sure, > >> >>but > >> >>it works. Seems to me those Eico generators weren't bad for what they > >> >>were, > >> >>but what do y'all consider a good one? > >> > > >> > If the accuracy and stability meet your needs, then you're all set. > >> > Otherwise there are lots of older HP choices. > >> > > >> > - > >> > ----------------------------------------------- > >> > Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org > >> > Madison, WI 53711 USA > >> > ----------------------------------------------- > > Article: 320186 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: Did anyone notice ?? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 00:58:18 GMT SWEET! "Benjamaniac" wrote in message news:dcmfc5$iau$1@news3.infoave.net... > That flower painted radio that was talked about on here the other day > just sold on eBay...for 103 bucks !!!! Amazing huh ?? > Ben > Article: 320187 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "radionutz" References: <1122605104.712981.199030@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Philco radio/lamp 53-706 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2005 13:39:28 GMT I am waiting for a reply from Phil but it may be too late a model for him also. We'll see. DON "radionutz" wrote in message news:TgqGe.18857$aY6.15964@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net... > Thanks for the suggestion. I already tried Chuck Schwark at the > philcorepairbench but it was to late a model for him. I will give Phil a > try. I also have his book Philco Radio so I will check in there too. > > DON > > > "No longer amused" wrote in message > news:1122605104.712981.199030@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... >> You might try querying Ron Ramirez through his website, >> http://www.philcoradio.com/ >> >> He has quite a wealth of knowledge about most all things begat by >> Philco. >> > > Article: 320188 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Did anyone notice ?? References: Message-ID: Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 21:01:59 -0400 I've refinished them in worse shape than that. Ken Benjamaniac wrote: > That flower painted radio that was talked about on here the other day just > sold on eBay...for 103 bucks !!!! Amazing huh ?? > Ben > > Article: 320189 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1122753872.328569.118500@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1122944031.132190.298220@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: FA: The Seeburg Voice - January 1952 Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 01:28:56 GMT "No longer amused" wrote in message news:1122944031.132190.298220@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Click on "Find other posts by this author" in "Show options"... > You are looking at all people who use no_reply@yahoo.com as a fake email address. jim menning Article: 320190 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1122753872.328569.118500@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1122944471.215946.87210@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: FA: The Seeburg Voice - January 1952 Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 01:32:15 GMT "No longer amused" wrote in message news:1122944471.215946.87210@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... > They say this poster is Andreas Schallenberg and he predominately > posts > in Dutch/German language computer related groups from just a few > brief > looks...he has more than 10 pages of archived posts on Google Groups > Usenet, and since I'd bet they use his known IP address(es) and such > maybe it is? You are looking at all people who use no_reply@yahoo.com as a fake email address. There are a lot more posters there than just Andreas. > > If there is a genuine mistake you are aware of, by all means notify > Google. It would be a pretty big mistake, I'd reckon. > Try using a little logic. He's using his radio call sign as his eBay ID. jim menning Article: 320191 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: whats that CE symbol i see on everything now ? Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 01:44:16 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <14534-42E9CCBF-409@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net> <1122765217.452725.164270@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1122775953.474973.279580@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> In "Brenda Ann" writes: >I've personally never seen one that wasn't passive. Passive being no active >electronic components, like transistors, IC's, etc. Most electrics have only >a pick-up coil or two, a couple controls and some capacitors.. all passive >components. A lot of them now have line amps on board. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 320192 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <1122881174.869115.146060@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1122902344.924854.51620@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: OT: FYI/OBIT--King Faud of Saudi Arabia Message-ID: Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 21:44:34 -0400 Peter How much Persian Gulf oil (percentage wise) reaches the US market? How closeis the Saudi wealth tied to the American economy? How much of their wealth do they have invested in this country? Pete "Peter Wieck" wrote in message news:1122902344.924854.51620@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > OK... > > Crown Prince (now King) Abdullah bin Abdul Aziz is 84 and in ill > health. Prince Sultan the new Crown Prince has cancer, and is also in > ill health otherwise. Below this tier are Bandar, Salman and Naif, all > half-brothers of Abdullah and Sultan. You may all remember Bandar as > the Saudi Ambassador to the US, recently recalled to Saudi... they knew > this was coming. > > Of the three in the second tier, Bandar is the most friendly to the > west. Naif is a realist, Salman a bit of an ideologue and > not-so-friendly to the west. All three are, relative to all things and > the relative health and intelligence of the Saudi Royal Family; bright, > healthy, educated individuals who most specifically do not have their > heads in the sand. But Naif and Salman have a very different view of > the world than Bandar, sufficiently different that should one of them > wind up as king in a few years well, then... There are three things > that we Americans and Westerners in general should be concerned over: > > 1. That Saudi Arabia should de-couple the price of oil from the US > dollar. Right now, that is perhaps the single most important reason > that oil remains as cheap as it does. Really. Expect oil to hit near > $75/barrel anyway before the end of the year, and ratchet upwards > more-or-less at ~15%/year thereafter. There will be as much oil as > anyone wants (for now)... just not cheap. > 2. That Saudi Arabia should turn its face to the East rather than to > the West. Apart from very sophisticated weapons-systems and high-end > commercial aircraft, there is nothing that could not be obtained from > Eastern sources easily and less expensively than from the West. > 3. That the Arabian Penninsula in general should begin to husband its > irreplaceable resources more wisely than now. This would require a > transition into self-sufficiency to a much greater degree than now, but > nothing that cannot be managed if the will is there. > > Right now, the Saudis have ~125 years supply of oil at present > rates-of-exploitation. Suppose they decide to double this? Their > net-revenue is already well over three times what it was even 10 years > ago, and nearly twice what it was at this time last year. Sultan, > Salman and Naif have no established relationships or loyalties to the > West, East or anywhere else except by eductation and travel. Unlike > King Faisel or Abdul Aziz, none of them owe their position to the West > or to direct interventions. > > It's gonna be a wild ride, hold onto your hats. > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA > > > No longer amused wrote: > > Heard on the ABC Radio News tonight. Will leave no links as you have > > plenty of sources. Yes it has various repercissions and such, no I > > won't discuss any but it means something to a few members so I > > mentioned it. No further word from me here. > Article: 320193 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" Subject: Crosley Mansion -- Seagate Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 01:48:13 GMT To collectors in Southwest Florida: Powel Crosley's mansion, Seagate, is located in Sarasota, a little north of the Ringling mansion/museum. For several years Seagate has been open during the Christmas season, displaying a "Festival Of Trees", consisting of Christmas trees decorated by area sponsors/businesses. Also on display are Crosley automobiles from area collectors, a Lionel train display by the Sarasota Model Railroad Club, and a handful of Crosley radios. The trees are nice, the cars are interesting, and I enjoy the trains. However in my opinion the radio display STINKS. These are about half-a-dozen old wooden radios that look like they've been stored in a barn the rest of the year -- the kind you'd pass up even for parts. Hardly a fitting display for the Crosley mansion. I've tried to talk with the staff there, to see about letting local collectors bring in some clean restored radios for display. Every time I open my mouth it seems to fall on deaf ears, so I've pretty much forgotten about it. However recently I mentioned this in passing to someone at the Sarasota Model Railroad Club, and he told me he would talk to the person in charge of this. Well, he did, and they're interested. So -- for me personally, I can display two Crosley units -- a clock radio and a Jeweler's Radio, both plastic table models from the 50's. It's a start, but nothing like a Buddy Boy, Coloradio, or repwood models. What I'd like to see is others in the Sarasota area to offer units for display. Nothing is cast in stone yet; we're only in the talking stage, but it appears the radio display will be in the same room as the trains, for security reasons -- I would assume because it's staffed all the time. We'll probably have one or two of the radios turned on, and an AMT-3000 transmitter pumping OTR and Christmas music into them. If anyone has radios to display and is interested, let me know. Obviously they would be most interested in having only Crosley models on display, rather than Philcos or others (but did you know the Crosley automobiles have Philco radios in them?). More than likely I'll mention it at the swap meet August 13th. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 320194 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 02:25:29 GMT In article , moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet says... > > >John, >...but dont miss my point that the right B+ fuse WILL protect the TRANNY! I >dont think you could ever loose one with a 150ma fuse in there! >Mark Oppat > I do agree that the 150 Ma fuse will save the tranny... also think its a pita to open it up to change the fuse when it blows.. John Article: 320195 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Philco 52 - 940, worth restoring? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <95une1t5c6c53m3vp17dcfuu6quhjslcmk@4ax.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 02:39:16 GMT In article , geepondy@hotmail.com says... > > >Hi John, > >Thanks for the reply. I've read a couple of your other replies as >well. If I pay a local outfit to have it restored, in the >neighborhood of what do you think it should cost me? you didn't say where you were located... prices vary considerably with area in the USA .. around here 50 to 75 bucks including parts would be a big number to pay... Think a couple of the guys a while back quoted something like 10 bucks per tube ... more tubes = more parts and more complex problems.. so yours isn't a hard one to work on... take a look at the Rock Sea Enterprises list of Radio Service shops if you need to find someone in your area... Still think that you could do it yourself.... max would be about 10 bucks in parts and the postage to get them... John k9uwa Article: 320196 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Robert Sherrod Subject: Re: Antique VCR References: <11conpqdp65np2d@corp.supernews.com> <9646-42CC643C-146@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 02:56:57 GMT Orion could just be the supplier of the plastic parts. Automobiles, John Deere combines, and even appliances are assembled from manufacturer produced and supplier parts. Even John Deere has castings made in China and machined in Mexico. That doesn't necessarily mean the quality is lower. I have been a big fan of Sony electronics. I have many new (and vintage) Sony portables. My AM/FM digital tuning portable cassette player with Dolby NR is still going strong after seven years. I have never had a problem with it. Not one call to Sony customer service. That goes for all of the others, though three items are still within the warrenty period. I don't judge the quality of a product based on where it is made, either in its entirety or in part. I base it on experience. Whether its performance and lifespan were sufficient enough to justify the cost. Just my 2 cents. Thanks, Bobby Ken G. wrote: > I work on new electronic products .Their vcr-dvd combos have the name > ORION in huge letters molded into the plastic parts > .. no Sony in there > Article: 320197 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Sony LVO 7000 ?? Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 02:58:35 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: In "Brenda Ann" writes: >"Henry Kolesnik" wrote in message >news:FXRGe.2901$PC7.1621@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net... >> I've found several Sony LVO 7000 3/4" video tape machines in storage, >> supposedly new and still in its vinyl wrap. I can't find much googling. >Do >> these things have any value? >Last I saw anything like that, it was going for around $50. They'll be just >about totally worthless in the next 3 years. Unfortunately, 3/4 seems like it'll be around until the Sun burns out. I don't know why, but we still get requests for window dubs (timecode burn-ins) on 3/4. The machines we use are Sony BVU-950's; I don't recognize the LVO 7000 model number. There was a series below the BVU that had 5000 or 7000 as a number, but I forget what they were called. So... it depends. If they're a modern machine with a TBC they'll have some value. Anything less I agree with Brenda. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 320198 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: <1122211291.630476.63540@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122525966.637263.237640@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Farewell to a dear friend... Message-ID: Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 04:43:06 GMT To lbrty4us@aol.com, Out of curiosity, what faith or deity do you belong to that inspires you interpret the principles of our constitution to suit your personal religious beliefs? I read your thread a couple of times and compared it to my eighth grade and high US government text books, and the official, textbook explanation of the basics of our government and your diatribe don't seem to go into sync! Omer wrote in message news:1122525966.637263.237640@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Omer Suleimanagich wrote: > >> Doesn't our constitution draw a line between church and state? > > No, it doesn't, it is bad history based upon a letter of one founder > years after the Constitution was ratified to the Danbury Baptist > church, and highly respected Supreme Court judges have said so. If you > can read English, you can quicky see for yourself that the American > Constitution prohibits any government interference with the free > excercise of religion or the establishment of any kind of government > church - IOW, to avoid the same crap they left England & Europe to get > away from, an official state-mandated church. Early congressional > sessions were hallmarked by very long open prayers and even bible > studies, and these things are thoroughly recorded in Senatorial & House > records as well as in lengthy personal written accounts of the founders > in correspondence. > > But God does separate them, bigtime - read the instruction manual. The > only time human government had anything rightful to do with the church, > was when God's people were also a worldly nation (old testament > Israel). This ended over 1900 years ago, and we read twice that > hundreds of years earlier God divorced Israel. > > The accurate biblical view of human government is that it was ordained > by God as a necessary *evil* to preserve order (however imperfectly) in > a fallen world where human law and force are necessary to kick ass and > keep people in line. Human government was not God's original plan for > a sinless and immortal man in the garden who was not separated from God > before the fall. The Jews eventually cried out for a king, and after a > lot of very corrupt & evil kings and a couple of good ones in-between, > we are where we are, with about the same scenario everywhere. There is > nothing new under the sun, God tells us. > > However, the church, also ordained by God, is holy and is His people, > not a building or organizational namesake, and forever separate from > God-ordained human government. Sort of like an isoceles triangle with > both bottom corners under the same top but nowhere near each other & > separated by a rigid base. God's people are called and commanded to > obey human government, to the extent that obedience does not controvert > their faith, and unto death if necessary, but to have nothing else > important to do with it beyond praying for the wisdom of leaders (good > or bad). > > The accurate and faithful biblical view is that every nation, society & > system of men, whether "good" or "bad" to our human thinking, is headed > for a permanent, cosmic incinerator. Therefore all are bankrupt, and > we are to put none of our faith, hopes nor efforts into any bankrupt > kingdom of men nor any of their causes or strifes. Our only true > nation, citizenship, allegiance, hope & reward are all elsewhere, and > we are as aliens here, equally strangers or equally at home in any > nation of men, but having no fellowship with the world and the worldly. > The bible says plainly that a friend of the world is an enemy of God > and a spiritual adulterer. Quite unpopular a notion, I am sure you > will agree. > > The correct and accurate mandate given to believers, is to instead be > calling others out of these things and into a lifeboat, while there yet > may be time. Beyond this, Jesus taught obedience to a rather brutal > Roman government famous for its merciless pagan values, rampant sexual > sins & harsh treatment of the downtrodden. > > So, you may consider these very unpopular truths when you see & hear of > "conservative Christians" as a political force - for they are far from > God no matter what they profess or believe. The true Christian faith > is convicting, exclusive, divisive, difficult, not open to > interpretation, devoid of politics or worldly causes, incompatible with > the behavioral philosopies (less accurately called "psychology"), > individually-redemptive rather than socially or nationally or legally > activist, not social or relational or organizational but spiritual, > risky & perhaps deadly to live out, bloody, radical, unpopular and > totally unworldly - as was its Founder. It is written that only few > shall be saved, and that many millions who beleive with all their > hearts they are on the elevator and proclaim the faith all over the > place, will get the shaft. > > You may also consider that believers are not called to try to clean up > the world nor its nations or societies - but instead to clean up *the > church* and keep it that way. Beleivers to not build bridges to the > world. Instead, they build walls of separation without any help from > fallen & inadequate human governments, and stand atop them proclaiming > salt & light. > > - f. > Article: 320199 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "william_b_noble" Subject: FA: another elderly ford automotive radio. Message-ID: <1122954648.a04bf41cedde844669f03a2d96c7692e@teranews> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 16:24:48 -0700 here's another elderly ford automotive radio - I presume like before that the "D" means 1970 is the decade? OEM 1970? Ford, works (AM, Nice) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4565931361 -- Bill to Email me, repair this address and use it: william_ b_ noble at msn dot com also check out http://www.wbnoble.com Article: 320200 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: robert casey Subject: Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? References: Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 04:32:26 GMT Williams wrote: > Adhering to admonitions in the ng I have been wrapping connections in > electrician's tape.. > But, the electricians tape unravels, uncoils. > Truly, duct tape is impossible to remove, unlike electrician's tape. > I have been securing electricians tape with a duct tape overlay. > > I use clear packing tape for that. The really sticky stuff. Keeps the electrical tape from unraveling. Article: 320201 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Adney Subject: Re: OT: sick kitty update... good news! Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2005 23:33:48 -0500 Message-ID: <05ote1d7n6aj5e82voddu4b0nn3ruirf0o@4ax.com> References: <1122911018.679743.14640@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> On Mon, 01 Aug 2005 22:45:07 GMT "William R. Walsh" wrote: >My best guess? He swallowed the sock and it never went down. > >Say what you will about animal intelligence, but I think the incident scared >some sense into our dog. He has *never* touched another thing in the laungry >again. Brings to mind what Dave Barry once said of a dog's attitude toward found items: "If it falls on the floor, eat it quick. If it's not food you can always throw it up later." I'm a dog lover, but the dogs we've had always seemed to operate this way. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- Article: 320202 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" Subject: OT - Red Neck... Message-ID: <_FDHe.530061$cg1.19262@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 05:39:06 GMT A North Carolina redneck passed away and left his entire estate in trust for his beloved widow. However, she can't touch it until she turns 16. Folks in Georgia now go to some movies in groups of 18 or more. They were told 17 and under are not admitted. The minimum drinking age in Tennessee has been raised to 32. It seems they want to keep alcohol out of the high schools. In Mississippi, reruns of "Hee Haw" are called documentaries. How can you tell if a West Virginia redneck is married? There's dried tobacco spit on both sides of his pickup truck. Tennessee has a new $3,000,000 State Lottery. The winner gets $3 a year for a million years. Recently, the Governor's Mansion in Little Rock burned down. In fact, it took out the whole trailer park. The best thing to ever come out of Arkansas is Interstate 40. An Alabama State Trooper stopped a pickup truck. He asked the driver, "Got any ID?" The driver said, "Bout what?" ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Q: How many women with MENOPAUSE does it take to change a light bulb? A: One! ONLY ONE!!!! And do you know WHY? Because no one else in this damn house knows HOW to change a light bulb! They don't even know that the bulb is BURNED OUT!! They would sit in the dark for THREE DAYS before they figured it out. And, once they figured it out, they wouldn't be able to find the light bulbs despite the fact that they've been in the SAME CUPBOARD for the past 17 YEARS! But if they did, by some miracle of God, actually find them 2 DAYS LATER, the chair they dragged to stand on to change the STUPID light bulb would STILL BE IN THE SAME SPOT!!!!! AND UNDERNEATH IT WOULD BE THE WRAPPER THE STUPID LIGHT BULBS CAME IN!!! BECAUSE NO ONE EVER CARRIES OUT THE GARBAGE!!!! IT'S A WONDER WE HAVEN'T ALL SUFFOCATED FROM THE PILES OF GARBAGE THAT ARE A FOOT DEEP THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE HOUSE!! IT WOULD TAKE AN ARMY TO CLEAN THIS DAMNED HOUSE! Article: 320203 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1122753872.328569.118500@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1122944471.215946.87210@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1122953853.624411.27490@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: FA: The Seeburg Voice - January 1952 Message-ID: <9JDHe.3200$Zh.419@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 05:42:29 GMT "No longer amused" wrote in message news:1122953853.624411.27490@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Which Michael anyway and since I'm not on the Usenet version > straight, > it hasn't occurred to me how to pull a header...no wait, Google > doesn't > seem to encourage that, nor have I bother to link, and I don't know > his > calls? > > If it was Terrell, he wouldn't pull that stunt, would he? I > seriously > doubt THAT at least... > You jump to too many conclusions. Go back to my first response, I already gave you the link to the Michael who posted it. jim menning Article: 320204 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1122482346.905935.250490@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122961118.915418.40510@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: 1961 Sergio Rodrigues Sheriff "Mole" Chair on eBay (Ends Aug 5) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 05:54:25 GMT "Ike" wrote in message news:1122961118.915418.40510@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > > > > My hunch was backed up by the hit data I received from the specific > link I listed in the posting. According to my data, I received 39 > hits > from people following the link in this newsgroup, and one of the 3 > current bidders was one of those people. So despite your rants and > complaints, some of your bretheren disagree with you with their feet > and their wallets. > What a bunch of bull. jim menning Article: 320205 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 04:36:19 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:tQAHe.210435$x96.169139@attbi_s72... > In article , moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet > says... >> >> >>John, >>...but dont miss my point that the right B+ fuse WILL protect the TRANNY! >>I >>dont think you could ever loose one with a 150ma fuse in there! >>Mark Oppat >> > > I do agree that the 150 Ma fuse will save the tranny... also think its > a pita to open it up to change the fuse when it blows.. thats like saying its a pita to try and get your seatbelt off after a crash so you shouldnt wear a seatbelt... its GOT to be less than a pita than changing out hte transformer... randy Article: 320206 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Taping Tip was Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 04:44:19 -0600 Message-ID: References: tip when taping.... if you have two wires (like a speaker wire) that are being wrapped in tape, stagger the connections. i.e dont put them right next to each other but 1/2" to 1" apart. XXX xxxxxx YYY yyyyyy not this XXX xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx YYYYYYYYY yyyyyyy this. where X joins x and Y joins y now when you tape the connections you can use that overlap to tuck in the ends. also, if the tape ever does come off the wires wont immediately short against each other. randy then, when you wrap each connection, "Williams" wrote in message news:GdmdnfWDRvWPbXPfRVn-pQ@qx.net... > Adhering to admonitions in the ng I have been wrapping connections in > electrician's tape.. > But, the electricians tape unravels, uncoils. > Truly, duct tape is impossible to remove, unlike electrician's tape. > I have been securing electricians tape with a duct tape overlay. > > From adouglasatgis.net Sun Aug 7 01:25:01 EDT 2005 Article: 320207 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Radiola Record Player Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 06:47:40 -0400 Organization: http://newsguy.com Lines: 9 Message-ID: References: <1122934802.802343.216990@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6-6dncMO7bRnM3PfRVn-pA@comcast.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p-823.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!pln-w!spln!dex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news2 Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320207 Hi, >Was there any connection between the American Radiola and the French >brand of the same name? No connection, as I recall, but I would have to do some searching to say for sure. Alan Article: 320208 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "John Hagman" Subject: Re: Attn. Hagstar Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 07:12:48 -0400 Message-ID: <11eul9loprgcmb6@corp.supernews.com> References: Thanks for the pointer! It's a nice one- project queue is full really but I'll ponder.... Article: 320209 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Taping Tip was Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 06:40:31 -0600 Message-ID: <18311-42EF69BF-217@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> References: I use heat shrink tubing it seems to stay pretty good . Article: 320210 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Safari TV commercial spotted From: Ron Ramirez References: Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 14:18:57 GMT Actually, the year was 1961. That's the year Philco lost over four million dollars and were bought out by Ford Motor Company in the latter part of that year. -- Ron Ramirez - Evansville, Indiana Visit PhilcoRadio.com at http://www.philcoradio.com/ Article: 320211 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <2uydnZIKfdgAcEPfRVn-gQ@giganews.com> <1121917104.928980.154990@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <--mdnXrc7pQ5UkLfRVn-qw@giganews.com> Subject: Re: Rauland/(Zenith?) kit TV? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 16:56:02 GMT "Phil Nelson" wrote in message news:--mdnXrc7pQ5UkLfRVn-qw@giganews.com... > > Well, I guess that explains why the kit boxes would have both > Rauland and Zenith names on them. > > Would anyone like to venture an estimate as to the value? Phil, watch this auction, that should give you an idea. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6197945501 jim menning Article: 320212 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <7%LHe.7415$0C.5376@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Sarasota Swap Meet Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 17:37:28 GMT If you came a couple of year ago, you probably went to the Lions club on Tuttle Avenue. The Knights of Columbus is much easier to get to. Get off I-75 Exit 210, Fruitville Road. Head west about a mile, past the big shopping centers. Look to your left -- you'll see an Advance Auto Parts, BP/Amoco, and KFC. Get in your left lane and slow down -- it's just past these on the left. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Paul Temple" wrote in message news:7%LHe.7415$0C.5376@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net... > Gary: > > I have not been to one of the Sarasota meets in a couple of years. Is the > a new "same old place" from the one I remember? Can you post the exact > address for us out-of-towners? > > > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message > news:zEzHe.8939$6f.692@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net... >> For everyone who plans to attend the upcoming swap meet in Sarasota: >> >> This meet is usually scheduled on the first Saturday in August; however >> for reasons of conflict, it will be held on August 13th. I don't have >> the details in front of me, but it's basically the same time and place as >> usual. This is at the Knights of Columbus hall on Fruitville Road, 'bout >> a mile or two west of I-75. Bring stuff to sell, and bring a radio for >> display! >> >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> > > Article: 320213 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Robinson" References: <1123001160.701511.225770@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: RCA 45 EY 2 iddle wheel needed Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 17:48:32 GMT Hi Mark, Here are two sources I know of that will re-build them for you. Gary Stork at: http://thevoiceofmusic.com/ and Ed Crockett at Vintage Electronics 601-264-4755 Hope this helps. Mark Robinson "amradio" wrote in message news:1123001160.701511.225770@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Hi, > I have to repair a RCA phono model 45 EY 2. > The only part I need is the iddle wheel and may be the changing > mechanism wheel. Is anyone could help me ? > Thank you very much > Mark > Article: 320214 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "arne thormodsen" References: Subject: Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? Message-ID: <8IOHe.9726$WE4.6622@news.cpqcorp.net> Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 18:12:20 GMT "Williams" wrote in message news:GdmdnfWDRvWPbXPfRVn-pQ@qx.net... > Adhering to admonitions in the ng I have been wrapping connections > in > electrician's tape.. > But, the electricians tape unravels, uncoils. > Truly, duct tape is impossible to remove, unlike electrician's tape. > I have been securing electricians tape with a duct tape overlay. > Some duct tapes have a thin metallic layer in them, so be careful... --arne > Article: 320215 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 12:18:03 -0700 Message-ID: <7665-42EFC6EB-659@storefull-3175.bay.webtv.net> References: <1123009124.758204.185110@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Jeff, FWIW, 175 kc was a pretty common I.F. in early 30s sets. Bill(oc) Article: 320216 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 15:29:09 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <643af$42ecbebc$4232bd4e$5142@COQUI.NET> <1123009124.758204.185110@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <65e97$42efc989$4232bd39$23499@COQUI.NET> Jeff, WB8NHV wrote: > some figuring after reading your answer to my post. The local station > in my area that shows up at 1460 and 550 KHz (not 560, as I had > originally thought) on all but one of my radios does so because of the > IF image problem, as 1460-550=910 kHz--twice the AM intermediate > frequency. 1460-560 doesn't work, as the difference between those two > frequencies is 900 kHz. > > However, I just used the same formula to determine whether my late > grandmother's 1936 Silvertone radio (and a GE TRF four-tube clock radio > of 1940s-50s vintage she had) had the same problem, with the local > station at 1220 coming in at the low end of the BC band. It didn't > figure. Twelve-twenty minus twice 455 (910) works out to 310 kHz--well > below the low end of the broadcast band. The only thing I can come up > with that makes any sense is that the IF of that radio was not 455 kHz > after all. > > I just ran the same formula using the old 262.5 kHz IF frequency, > which was the standard in now antique radios of (I think) the '20s and > '30s. Now, the results were within the BC band, but not exactly on a U. > S. AM broadcast frequency. Twelve-twenty minus 262.5x2=695 kHz. Could > it be that another non-standard intermediate frequency was used in > 1930s broadcast receivers? I'm looking for an IF, if there is one, that > would cause the image to fall exactly on a U.S. BC frequency. I'm > stumped at this point. How many different IFs were used in broadcast > sets of the '30s, and when was 455 kHz established as the standard? Although the IF frequency is predescribed in a circuit it is subject to alignment variations. I have found "working" radios being as much as 100 kc off from the desired 455kc. 262 was a common auto radio frequency not often used in 'indoor' radios. There were many IF frequencies that were used in the 30s. I saw a list once that someone had compiled and there must have been 40-50 listed. For an early 30s Silvertone, 175kc was often used. I get a mixing product here sometimes on certain older radios that have a tendency for overloading. Local station is on 1370 and the product is around 1120 and 'fuzzy' sounding. There's a station on 1620 which maybe could cause this numerically (250 kc offset). Its not all that strong...and there are stronger ones around...but maybe the selectivity of the older ckts just so happens to fall off and favor that one. I never have confirmed that this is actually the situation. -Bill Article: 320217 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <1122994167.723078.251320@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1122995138.473384.116070@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: OT? - Radio Shelves Message-ID: Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 15:29:43 -0400 I use runs of 3/4 furniture grade plywood, with a maximum width that will hold three large tombstones -- MAX. I daddo cut slots in 1 x 2 boards that serve to reinforce the front and rear edges of the plywood. The exposed ply is covered with short nap carpet. Pete Article: 320218 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" References: Subject: Re: Did anyone notice ?? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 14:37:51 -0500 "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:KyzHe.8935$6f.1982@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net... > SWEET! LOL! :) Article: 320219 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: dkw@ofir.dk (Hans Henrik Pedersen) Subject: Re: Strange record label Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 20:00:49 GMT Message-ID: <42efd0b3.1914288@news.inet.tele.dk> References: <42d82663.726654@news.inet.tele.dk> On Sat, 16 Jul 2005 22:27:00 GMT, "HannahR" wrote: >This Wikipedia entry seems to have a translation table for Mkhedruli, >the Georgian script on the record labels. > >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mkhedruli > > Thank you so much. Now I only need på find a person speaking this language. ;-) Yours Hans Henrik Pedersen Article: 320220 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: robert casey Subject: Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? References: <1122963308.945376.71960@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 20:12:24 GMT No longer amused wrote: > Tell me where you get such durable duct tape. > It's not duct tape. Just plain old fashioned modern 2 inch wide clear cellophane packing tape. I put it over the electrical tape. The electrical tape does the insulating, the packing tape just holds the electrical tape down. Article: 320221 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" Subject: Philco 40-190 tone control specs??? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 20:53:30 GMT Working on a Philco 40-190 with a bad tone control. The schematic is quite confusing. It is either 400K or 6 meg variable resistor. Does any one know what is should be? Schematic here at http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/339/M0013339.htm Would any one have one or two of these they could part with? I need two of these controls for two separate chassis. I can salvage the power switch >from one the other chassis is "missing in action". Thanks, Paul. Article: 320222 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 22:00:05 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> In k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) writes: >In article , moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet >says... >> >>...but dont miss my point that the right B+ fuse WILL protect the TRANNY! I >>dont think you could ever loose one with a 150ma fuse in there! >I do agree that the 150 Ma fuse will save the tranny... also think its >a pita to open it up to change the fuse when it blows.. After reading about B+ fusing for years, I have to ask: What's the deal with not relying on a line fuse? Yes, a small value B+ will be quicker, but unless you use a ridiculous value in the transformer primary I'd think the windings would have enough thermal mass to survive until the line fuse opens. Believe me, I got religion about line fusing after burning a transformer. I've just always installed a pigtail under chassis in series with the primary. For a less purist approach, depending on the set, I don't think it looks bad putting an old-style round cap twist-lock holder on the rear apron. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 320223 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Look at the final bid on this !!! From: "Benjamaniac" Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 16:24:26 -0600 Message-ID: ummm...is this unusual ?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7533222948&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 Ben Article: 320224 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Lyndell Scott" References: <8IOHe.9726$WE4.6622@news.cpqcorp.net> Subject: Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 23:10:42 GMT I used to stretch the tape when I wrapped with it, then wondered why it would not hold. Finally figured out it was the stretching that was causing the problem. Heat and the shear force from stretching was causing the adhesive to start slipping and finally give up. I now wrap the tape with no stretch so that there is no shear force. Like has already been said, I always use shrink tubing unless I'm wrapping an existing connection or break in the insulation and don't want to re-splice. Article: 320225 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT: FYI/OBIT--King Faud of Saudi Arabia From: Larry References: <1122881174.869115.146060@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1122902344.924854.51620@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 19:15:02 -0400 " Uncle Peter" wrote in news:ceAHe.168230$go.130059@fed1read05: > How much of their wealth do they have invested in this country? > > LOTS....Saudis built most of the really exclusive waterfront communities on the Atlantic Ocean stateside. -- Larry Article: 320226 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Need Radio picked up in central Fla. References: <0tqdnddaCaQXfHLfRVn-vQ@sigecom.net> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 19:16:00 -0400 Where do you want it delivered? Bruce Mercer wrote: > I know this is a long shot but does anybody live around Brooksville Fla. > that could pick up a console for me and hold it for awhile? Or better, maybe > be coming North sometime? The guy will only hold it for 30 days before it > has to be picked up and I don't know anybody (mover) that can get it that > quick. Brookesville looks to be due west of Orlando off 75 IIRC. > > Bruce > > Article: 320227 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Phono Drive wheels Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 19:21:22 -0400 Miss old Bill already. Who else rebuilds rubber phono drive wheels? Ken Article: 320228 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT? - Radio Shelves From: Larry References: <1122994167.723078.251320@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 19:21:33 -0400 tschw10117@aol.com wrote in news:1122994167.723078.251320@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: > an unusual > spring stunted the mosquito hatch. > I was watching some fly fishing these "pros" were doing from a sea plane landing on a river in Alaska. I don't think the Alaska Tourista Bureaucrats would have let them out alive if they'd seen the huge cloud of mosquitoes trying to eat our cameraman...so thick you could hardly see the other guys, beating off their own clouds of mosquitoes, trying to fish....(c; Huge mosquitoes kept crashing into the camera's lens down inside the sun shield in a crazed feeding frenzy caused by the cameraman's heat/moisture radiation... -- Larry Article: 320229 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Speaker code ID From: Larry References: <11er0ruriq1p0e@corp.supernews.com> <1122955417.270703.157310@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 19:23:19 -0400 "No longer amused" wrote in news:1122955417.270703.157310@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com: > Think I'd rather cruise the Monte... > > It's OK as long as the wife doesn't get wind of it...(c; -- Larry Article: 320230 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: paulSPAM@paulsherwin.co.uk (Paul Sherwin) Subject: Re: OT: FYI/OBIT--King Faud of Saudi Arabia Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 23:38:50 GMT Message-ID: <42f00201.26537018@news.demon.co.uk> References: <1122881174.869115.146060@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1122902344.924854.51620@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> On 1 Aug 2005 06:19:05 -0700, "Peter Wieck" wrote: >1. That Saudi Arabia should de-couple the price of oil from the US >dollar. Right now, that is perhaps the single most important reason >that oil remains as cheap as it does. Really. Expect oil to hit near >$75/barrel anyway before the end of the year, and ratchet upwards >more-or-less at ~15%/year thereafter. There will be as much oil as >anyone wants (for now)... just not cheap. I think the current high crude prices will have been an eye-opener for many OPEC bigwigs. For decades they've bought the Western line that a high oil price would cause global economic collapse and hurt their own economies. However, it now seems that the global economy works pretty well with crude prices 2 or 3 times higher that what was previously considered sustainable, so maybe big producers *will* decide to pump less and extend the extraction time. In the long run this may not be a bad thing, since the world has taken cheap energy for granted for a long time now, and the good old price mechanism may prompt a global rethink. This has got to be good for greenhouse emissions and resource depletion. As you say though Peter, it's going to be a bumpy ride. I see it getting really bad in about 15 years, just when I'll be reaching retirement age :-( Best regards, Paul -- Paul Sherwin Consulting http://paulsherwin.co.uk Article: 320231 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Bob La Rocca" Subject: Zenith FM IF Transformers Message-ID: Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 19:59:49 -0400 I'm currently working on a Zenith AM/FM G724 with 7G04 chassis. AM is loud and clear. FM is good sometimes. The first if transformer is a combo AM/FM type and moving a terminal causes it to lose the signal or distort. I'm thinking the typical IF transformer silvered mica problem. Does anyone know the correct value of capacitor for the FM and AM coils? Thanks in advance -- Bob La Rocca Lindenhurst, NY Article: 320232 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 20:01:31 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Zenith FM IF Transformers References: Message-ID: Bob La Rocca wrote: > I'm currently working on a Zenith AM/FM G724 with 7G04 chassis. AM is loud > and clear. FM is good sometimes. The first if transformer is a combo > AM/FM type and moving a terminal causes it to lose the signal or distort. > I'm thinking the typical IF transformer silvered mica problem. Does anyone > know the correct value of capacitor for the FM and AM coils? > > Thanks in advance > Try these values: http://www.sparkbench.com/zenithifxfmrs.gif -Bill From stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Sun Aug 7 01:25:08 EDT 2005 Article: 320233 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Stephanie Weil Subject: Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? References: Reply-To: stephanie-at-gordsven-dot-com Message-ID: User-Agent: slrn/0.9.7.4 (Linux) Lines: 18 Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 00:08:56 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 66.65.49.245 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: twister.nyc.rr.com 1123027736 66.65.49.245 (Tue, 02 Aug 2005 20:08:56 EDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 20:08:56 EDT Organization: Road Runner - NYC Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!elk.ncren.net!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!headwall.stanford.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!cyclone1.gnilink.net!gnilink.net!cyclone.rdc-nyc.rr.com!news-out.nyc.rr.com!twister.nyc.rr.com.POSTED!not-for-mail Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320233 In article , Williams wrote: > But, the electricians tape unravels, uncoils. Try Scotch brand Super #88. That's the best tape out there. The stuff you see in the bargain bins....hell, you're better off wrapping splices with masking tape. Here's a tip. Don't stretch the tape when doing the last few wraps. Otherwise, you have the problem of the adhesive on the tape fighting against the tape's natural inclination to shrink back. What if you cover the splice with a wrap of friction tape on top of the rubber electrical tape? -- Stephanie Weil New York City, U.S.A. Article: 320234 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: OT? - Radio Shelves Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 18:22:00 -0600 Message-ID: <25693-42F00E28-1057@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net> References: <1122997277.968208.9750@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Simple sticks or dowels starting at the floor under each shelf proping up the shelf . No need to fasten the sticks . Move them around between radios / objects . Add as many or few as you like Article: 320235 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Bob La Rocca" References: Subject: Re: Zenith FM IF Transformers Message-ID: <3rUHe.16877$sf6.4488@fe08.lga> Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 20:43:44 -0400 Thanks Bill just what I needed. Looks like 24pF for the FMs and 120pF for the AMs is a good place to start Regards, -- Bob La Rocca Lindenhurst, NY "-ex-" wrote in message news:c29c0$42f0095d$4232bd39$10523@COQUI.NET... > Bob La Rocca wrote: > >> I'm currently working on a Zenith AM/FM G724 with 7G04 chassis. AM is >> loud and clear. FM is good sometimes. The first if transformer is a >> combo AM/FM type and moving a terminal causes it to lose the signal or >> distort. I'm thinking the typical IF transformer silvered mica problem. >> Does anyone know the correct value of capacitor for the FM and AM coils? >> >> Thanks in advance >> > Try these values: > http://www.sparkbench.com/zenithifxfmrs.gif > > -Bill Article: 320236 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 01:13:34 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> In "Bruce Mercer" writes: >The 1928 Edison C-2 chassis calls for a 2.0 amp line fuse. Would that do the >trick for the >transformer proctection that we're talking about? Line fusing, anyway... That's what I'm wondering. A secondary short is certainly gonna pull 2A, so with a 1:1 turns ratio or greater you oughta pop the primary fuse before anything gets too hot. There's a lot of metal to act as a heatsink for at least a few seconds. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 320237 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 21:35:46 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> Message-ID: <181a$42f01f76$4232bdcf$28315@COQUI.NET> Tim Mullen wrote: > In "Bruce Mercer" writes: > > >>The 1928 Edison C-2 chassis calls for a 2.0 amp line fuse. Would that do the >>trick for the >>transformer proctection that we're talking about? Line fusing, anyway... > > > That's what I'm wondering. A secondary short is certainly gonna pull > 2A, so with a 1:1 turns ratio or greater you oughta pop the primary fuse > before anything gets too hot. There's a lot of metal to act as a heatsink > for at least a few seconds. Part of the logic in using the B+ secondary fuse is that you get a level of protection that is otherwise lost in the transformer when fusing only at AC. Take a minor B+ fault for instance thats pulling 50% more current, say from 100ma up to 150ma. That increase over an extended period of time will almost certainly guarantee an early demise for the HV secondary but on the AC input side its only a comparatively small increase. On the other hand, shorts can occur in filament wiring also so the AC side fuse can deal with that. For catastrophic shorts it doesn't make much difference and on a refurbed set thats generally the only situation that might commonly occur since the leaky caps, etc will have been ferreted out. So thats another nod favoring an AC input fuse. I suppose you could do BOTH fuses but I have never felt a need for that. -Bill Article: 320238 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <_FDHe.530061$cg1.19262@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: OT - Red Neck... Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 02:06:43 GMT At least you kept Florida out of this. Actually, somewhere around here I've got a list of ways to tell if you're a TRUE Floridian. Here are a few from memory: You can remember when there was no good reason to visit Orlando. You STILL have no good reason to visit Orlando. Stranded in the woods, you know better than to use Spanish moss as a substitute for toilet paper. You don't pull over and stop the car to look at an alligator. You dress for a semi-formal occasion by putting on a pair of socks and shoes. If it's formal, you wear a shirt. When a hurricane threatens, you have better things to do than throw a party. You look up to see what kind of palm tree it is before parking your car under it. During the rainy season, you NEVER park your car with the windows down, even for a moment, even if there's not a cloud in the sky. During the winter months, you STILL leave the windows up and lock the car. Otherwise someone may fill it with bags of fruit. There's a lot more, but these will suffice. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Paul P" wrote in message news:_FDHe.530061$cg1.19262@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >A North Carolina redneck passed away and left his entire estate in trust >for his beloved widow. However, she can't touch it until she turns 16. > Folks in Georgia now go to some movies in groups of 18 or more. They were > told 17 and under are not admitted. > > The minimum drinking age in Tennessee has been raised to 32. It seems they > want to keep alcohol out of the high schools. > > In Mississippi, reruns of "Hee Haw" are called documentaries. > > How can you tell if a West Virginia redneck is married? There's dried > tobacco spit on both sides of his pickup truck. > > Tennessee has a new $3,000,000 State Lottery. The winner gets $3 a year > for a million years. > > Recently, the Governor's Mansion in Little Rock burned down. In fact, it > took out the whole trailer park. > > The best thing to ever come out of Arkansas is Interstate 40. > > An Alabama State Trooper stopped a pickup truck. He asked the driver, > "Got any ID?" The driver said, "Bout what?" > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Q: How many women with MENOPAUSE does it take to > > change a light bulb? > > > A: One! ONLY ONE!!!! And do you know WHY? > > Because no one else in this damn house knows > > HOW to change a light bulb! They don't even know > > that the bulb is BURNED OUT!! They would sit > > in the dark for THREE DAYS before they figured it out. > > And, once they figured it out, > > they wouldn't be able to find the > > light bulbs despite the fact that > > they've been in the SAME CUPBOARD > > for the past 17 YEARS! > > But if they did, by some > > miracle of God, actually find > > them 2 DAYS LATER, the chair > > they dragged to stand on to > > change the STUPID light bulb would > STILL BE IN > > THE SAME SPOT!!!!! > > AND UNDERNEATH > > IT WOULD BE THE > > WRAPPER THE > > STUPID LIGHT > > BULBS CAME IN!!! > > BECAUSE NO ONE > > EVER CARRIES OUT > > THE GARBAGE!!!! > > IT'S A WONDER WE > > HAVEN'T ALL > > SUFFOCATED FROM > > THE PILES OF > > GARBAGE THAT > > ARE A FOOT DEEP > > THROUGHOUT THE > > ENTIRE HOUSE!! > > IT WOULD TAKE > > AN ARMY TO > > CLEAN THIS > > DAMNED HOUSE! > > Article: 320239 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? Message-ID: <1SVHe.13102$oZ.12957@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 02:20:45 GMT For me, working with car radios, I use heat shrink tubing for wire splices. Of course such splices are always soldered. Some radios have variations of black tape, covering holes in the top to prevent the dial lamp from shing in the wrong places. When reassembling, I use black duck tape. I also use this on inside panels if it appears certain wiring may be located very close to the case. I've got some Scotch electrical tape around, but I don't use it much because it doesn't look professional. Believe me, the conversions I do are not cheap, and if a customer should ever have the desire to open up the case, they will see neat, professional construction. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Stephanie Weil" wrote in message news:slrndf03be.j6f.stephanie@home3.gordsven.com... > In article , Williams wrote: > >> But, the electricians tape unravels, uncoils. > > Try Scotch brand Super #88. That's the best tape out there. The stuff > you see in the bargain bins....hell, you're better off wrapping splices > with masking tape. > > Here's a tip. Don't stretch the tape when doing the last few wraps. > Otherwise, you have the problem of the adhesive on the tape fighting > against the tape's natural inclination to shrink back. > > What if you cover the splice with a wrap of friction tape on top of the > rubber electrical tape? > > -- > Stephanie Weil > New York City, U.S.A. Article: 320240 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 02:34:23 GMT In article , tim@panix.com says... > > After reading about B+ fusing for years, I have to ask: What's the >deal with not relying on a line fuse? Yes, a small value B+ will be >quicker, but unless you use a ridiculous value in the transformer primary > Tim Mullen as Bill said... when the B+ gets overload... even a complete short that happens when a 6X5 tube goes south... the tranny just goes into saturation and most of it never appears in the primary... John k9uwa ps.... out of the ballpark 2000 radios we have restored and sold or restored for the customer in the last 10 years.... about 50 or 60 of them have fuses in them.... the rest have no fuses.... so far... zero problems that a fuse would have saved.... other than the 2 Zenith trannies that had 6x5 tubes go south.... that was before I began replacing ALL 6x5 tubes with diodes.. Article: 320241 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT - Red Neck... From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <_FDHe.530061$cg1.19262@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 02:38:45 GMT In article , gtayman@gate.net says... > > >At least you kept Florida out of this. Actually, somewhere around here I've >got a list of ways to tell if you're a TRUE Floridian. Here are a few from >memory: >Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical You know what the "Early Bird Special is" in case U don't... thats where everyones garage doors fly open at 2:45PM so that they are in line at their favorite restraunt for the early bird special that starts at 3PM .... John k9uwa Article: 320242 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Philco 40-190 tone control specs??? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 02:55:50 GMT In article , p.pinyotREMOVE@REMOVEworldnet.attREMOVE.netREMOVE says... > > >Working on a Philco 40-190 with a bad tone control. The schematic is quite >confusing. It is either 400K or 6 meg variable resistor. > >Does any one know what is should be? > >Schematic here at http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/339/M0013339.htm > >Would any one have one or two of these they could part with? I need two of >these controls for two separate chassis. I can salvage the power switch >from one the other chassis is "missing in action". > >Thanks, >Paul. > > Hi Paul ... just check the Tone/On/Off controls in two of those chassis... as per the riders they are the same as 40-180, 40-185, 40-190 ... I get 10 Meg on both of the ones I checked.... and yes one is on a junker chassis.. $5.00 including priority mail.... and PO will get most of that Send me your address etc... real email addy is k9uwa at arrl dot net John k9uwa Article: 320243 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Look at the final bid on this !!! Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 22:13:18 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1123026184.245457.272060@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1123030291.736366.79440@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> shipping cost + handling cost +item cost = total cost. you pay total costs regardless of how its broken down. but thats moot. did you read the auction? where did you get 100$ shipping? "Shipping is on me! That's right, nada, no matter where you are! That's my present to the winner of this fantastic pile of provenance!!!" randy "ego_te_demitto" wrote in message news:1123030291.736366.79440@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > But $100 shipping UPS. Does it weigh that much? Or is that one of those > gimmick auctions with a .99 sale price and $100 shipping? > Article: 320244 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 22:17:02 -0600 Message-ID: References: <8IOHe.9726$WE4.6622@news.cpqcorp.net> "Lyndell Scott" wrote in message news:S3THe.708$SE3.689@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com... >I used to stretch the tape when I wrapped with it, then wondered why it >would not hold. Finally figured out it was the stretching that was causing >the problem. Heat and the shear force from stretching was causing the >adhesive to start slipping and finally give up. I now wrap the tape with no >stretch so that there is no shear force. the tape is supposed to be stretched a bit, but i know many people stretch it way too far. i give it a little stretch for the first wrap then taper it down to none at the end to avoid the slipping. heat shrink is for wimps! ok ok. i use it too. but its still for wimps randy Article: 320245 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: Phono Drive wheels Date: 2 Aug 2005 23:41:02 -0500 Message-ID: <42f04a8f$0$16816$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <1OOdnQMV9Muzn23fRVn-tg@sigecom.net> Bruce Mercer wrote: > Ed Crockett > > 601-2644755 > > can't find his email ad. right now. > > Bruce > > There's a dealer in Sweden who offers an idler rebuilding service. Here you go: http://svalanderaudio.com/vinyl/wheelseng.php He does difficult tapered wheels like some for Dual and all for Lenco. Bubba of the West Article: 320246 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "william_b_noble" References: <1122954648.a04bf41cedde844669f03a2d96c7692e@teranews> <1122986774.967068.283240@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: FA: another elderly ford automotive radio. Message-ID: <1123048834.5799195d59a4c2f7ec3ac6d5dad33543@teranews> Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 23:00:30 -0700 thank you. Since the radio has a bid on it now, I can't revise the title, but I did add this information to the end of the listing. It's interesting that this radio got a bid and the 8 track player (which is really a much nicer radio) got none....such is the vagueries of the auction, I suppose. At least I'm making some shelf space in my garage. There's some older blaupunkt radios, I think, and a motorola radio with loctal tubes in it that I will try to move also - wrote in message news:1122986774.967068.283240@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... > As I told you a few weeks ago: > > D=1970s > 2=Year (so 1972) > 2=PINTO > > So it's from a '72 Pinto. It was used in 68-71 Ford Torinos and 70-73 > Ford Pinto, Maverick and Mercury Comet. If you want any chance of > selling it make sure to put the Torinos in the title. > > The Mustang radios were different and they stopped making Falcons after > 1970. > Article: 320247 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 02:10:17 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? References: <8IOHe.9726$WE4.6622@news.cpqcorp.net> Message-ID: xrongor wrote: > heat shrink is for wimps! ok ok. i use it too. but its still for wimps > > > randy Ya can't beat 20 wraps of friction tape all sealed down with glyptal for that professional look. -Bill Article: 320248 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Mueller Subject: Re: Speaker code ID Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 23:21:22 -0700 Message-ID: References: <11er0ruriq1p0e@corp.supernews.com> <11esfqvailjdodb@corp.supernews.com> On Mon, 01 Aug 2005 21:32:15 +0000, Robert Mozeleski wrote: > 155 is listed as DeWald Radio Mfg. Long Island 1, NY. > A EIA code might look like 6 digits or more, don't know if there was a set > standard. Old selenium rectifier coded, 179134. 179 looks up as Federal > Telephone and Radio company clifton nj. 1 would be the year most likely 1941 > or 1951 probably 51'. 34 would be the week, 34th week of that year. I think > Triode electronics web site has speaker codes listed. I scanned the codes > from 1957 a few years back i think syl has them on his web ste. > This could be useful. Thanks for letting everyone know about it. -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Article: 320249 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 07:51:25 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> In k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) writes: >as Bill said... when the B+ gets overload... even a complete short that >happens when a 6X5 tube goes south... the tranny just goes into saturation >and most of it never appears in the primary... ??? The current's gotta come from =somewhere=. I understand saturation, but that doesn't make the transformer more efficient. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 320250 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: FA Great stuffers Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 08:07:36 -0400 These will add some vintage color to your underchassis. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5794346431 Ken Article: 320251 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 12:12:09 GMT In article , tim@panix.com says... > > > > ??? The current's gotta come from =somewhere=. I understand saturation, >but that doesn't make the transformer more efficient. > >-- > Tim Mullen Try it and you will see what happens Tim ... take a Zenith tranny from some 7 or 8 tube model... hook to AC line through your MultiMeter set to read current.... now put a direct short across the High Voltage line and see just how much the current level goes up on the Primary... it won't be up enough to talk about... radio has example a 1 amp line fuse... radio normal draws 0.7 amps... bet it won't blow the 1 amp fuse if the HV is shorted... John k9uwa Article: 320252 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: FA: Very Nice Collection References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 08:32:36 -0400 $350,000, maybe in 50 years...Ken graham wrote: > .. wish it was mine .... > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5794565378&fromMakeTrack=true > > Article: 320253 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Robert McLean" References: Subject: Re: Philco 40-190 tone control specs??? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 08:28:37 -0400 "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:WmWHe.214663$_o.119898@attbi_s71... > In article , > p.pinyotREMOVE@REMOVEworldnet.attREMOVE.netREMOVE says... >> >> >>Working on a Philco 40-190 with a bad tone control. The schematic is >>quite >>confusing. It is either 400K or 6 meg variable resistor. >> >>Does any one know what is should be? >> >>Schematic here at http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/339/M0013339.htm >> >>Would any one have one or two of these they could part with? I need two >>of >>these controls for two separate chassis. I can salvage the power switch >>from one the other chassis is "missing in action". >> >>Thanks, >>Paul. >> >> > Hi Paul ... just check the Tone/On/Off controls in two of those chassis... > as per the riders they are the same as 40-180, 40-185, 40-190 ... > I get 10 Meg on both of the ones I checked.... and yes one is on a > junker chassis.. > > $5.00 including priority mail.... and PO will get most of that > > Send me your address etc... real email addy is k9uwa at arrl dot > net > > John k9uwa > Out of curiosity, what is the schematic trying to indicate by labelling the control with both 6 Meg and 400K ? It does not appear to have an extra tap, so I do not think it is that. Is the 400K a minimum resistance present even when the control is turned all the way to one side ? Article: 320254 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Lyndell Scott" Subject: How do you charge for services Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 12:56:00 GMT Several days ago I asked this question on the forum and got some good responses. I thought I would pose the question here also as I know some of you do radio restoration as a full or part time business. If you prefer not to post publically, please send me a private email. For information on how I currently charge go to http://home.flash.net/~lfscott/Pricing.html . Other businesses such as auto repair have pricing guides for the different types of services provided. Before I got into radio restoration I did furniture restoration and there was a sort of guide if one looked for it. I am unaware of any such guide for our profession, probably because we are so few. Because of that I think each of us has devised our own method of charging. My wife tells me I don't charge enough and I respond that I charge according to the going rate. The truth is I don't have a clue as to what is the going rate or even if there is such a thing. An example is that there is a person in my local area that charges much more to repair a vintage radio than I do for a total restore. If he is charging the going rate, then I certainly am not charging enough. However, I don't wish to charge so much that the average person who wants a family radio restored for nostalgic reasons can't afford me. I am also aware that the cost for many types of services vary by region. I suspect people on the east and west coasts normally expect to pay more for some services than in other parts of the country. As an example, my son-in-law is an attorney in Montana and his firm charges an hourly rate that is about a third of what is charged on the coasts. The attorney rates in Texas, where I live, fall somewhere in between. What's true about attorney services may be true about other types of services. I wonder if this is true about radio restoration also. I do this as a fulltime business, but have no expectation of it ever providing all the income I need to live on. I, therefore, have to rely on investment income and a small annuity to make up the difference. Thank you in advance for any responses. -- Audio Antiques 972-723-3930 http://home.flash.net/~lfscott/ Article: 320255 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Robinson" References: <1123001160.701511.225770@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1123062931.358711.184680@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: RCA 45 EY 2 iddle wheel needed Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 12:57:08 GMT Hi Mark, If you are interested in these players, you should really check out the Paul Vourtsis book "The Fabulous Victrola 45". It has a wealth of info on the history and restoration of these players. http://www.schifferbooks.com/newschiffer/book_template.php?isbn=0764316370 Good luck on your repair Mark "amradio" wrote in message news:1123062931.358711.184680@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > > Mark Robinson wrote: > > Hi Mark, > > > > Here are two sources I know of that will re-build them for you. > > > > Gary Stork at: > > > > http://thevoiceofmusic.com/ > > > > and Ed Crockett at Vintage Electronics > > > > 601-264-4755 > > > > Hope this helps. > > > > Mark Robinson > > > Hi Mark > Thank you very much, I send an email right now. > > Mark Graviere > Article: 320256 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: How do you charge for services Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 07:18:55 -0600 Message-ID: References: i would think radio repair is about on par with quality furniture restoration. just to start somewhere, i would charge the same hourly as those guys locally. is that other guy getting lots of business? if so, sounds like he's charging about right. imho you have to decide. is this a hobby or a business. if its a business and joe average nostalgia cant afford you, but you are still making good money, i think you have to forget about joe and let a 'hobbiest' take care of him. the difference between a business and a hobby is motive. if your motives are financial you have to try and maximize income. if your motives are for fun (hobby), you only need to be having fun to make it worth while. from my experience, trying to run a 'hobby business' doesnt work at all. your goals are at cross purposes. the business end is always what suffers and you usually end up kicking yourself for charging too little which ultimately takes the fun out of it. my 2 cents.. randy "Lyndell Scott" wrote in message news:A93Ie.612$646.447@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net... > Several days ago I asked this question on the forum and got some good > responses. I thought I would pose the question here also as I know some of > you do radio restoration as a full or part time business. If you prefer > not to post publically, please send me a private email. For information on > how I currently charge go to http://home.flash.net/~lfscott/Pricing.html . > Other businesses such as auto repair have pricing guides for the different > types of services provided. Before I got into radio restoration I did > furniture restoration and there was a sort of guide if one looked for it. > I am unaware of any such guide for our profession, probably because we are > so few. Because of that I think each of us has devised our own method of > charging. My wife tells me I don't charge enough and I respond that I > charge according to the going rate. The truth is I don't have a clue as to > what is the going rate or even if there is such a thing. > > An example is that there is a person in my local area that charges much > more to repair a vintage radio than I do for a total restore. If he is > charging the going rate, then I certainly am not charging enough. However, > I don't wish to charge so much that the average person who wants a family > radio restored for nostalgic reasons can't afford me. > > I am also aware that the cost for many types of services vary by region. I > suspect people on the east and west coasts normally expect to pay more for > some services than in other parts of the country. As an example, my > son-in-law is an attorney in Montana and his firm charges an hourly rate > that is about a third of what is charged on the coasts. The attorney rates > in Texas, where I live, fall somewhere in between. What's true about > attorney services may be true about other types of services. I wonder if > this is true about radio restoration also. > > I do this as a fulltime business, but have no expectation of it ever > providing all the income I need to live on. I, therefore, have to rely on > investment income and a small annuity to make up the difference. > > Thank you in advance for any responses. > > > -- > > Audio Antiques > 972-723-3930 > http://home.flash.net/~lfscott/ > Article: 320257 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: How do you charge for services From: Larry References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 09:41:39 -0400 "Lyndell Scott" wrote in news:A93Ie.612$646.447@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net: > http://home.flash.net/~lfscott/Pricing.html Wow! How do you make any money working so hard for so little? I repair and restore electronic organs. $60/hour + parts at retail. The work is on-site from my shop built into a stepvan so I can carry most all the normal parts/tubes/manuals. But, because you do more damage to an old organ moving it than is necessary repairing it on-site, the repairs are done in the church or home where possible. Restorations are farmed out to another company. All I do is handle storage/shipping/restorage/deliveries/setup. I should start taking in antique radios, here, and subcontract them out at your rates to mine....(c; -- Larry Article: 320258 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT - Red Neck... From: Larry References: <_FDHe.530061$cg1.19262@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 09:42:52 -0400 "Gary Tayman" wrote in news:TEVHe.13032$oZ.383@newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net: > At least you kept Florida out of this. Florida's upside down. The further south you go, the further north you get.... -- Larry Article: 320259 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Lyndell Scott" References: Subject: Re: How do you charge for services Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 14:32:56 GMT Randy, I think your comments are very insightful. I do radio restorations because I enjoy the process and the challenge which is at cross purposes with it being a pure business. I would almost rather have a challenging chassis restoration job than a simple one, even though the charge might be the same. At the same time, I have a need to earn a decent wage to pay the bills. Gives me something to think about. Article: 320260 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Nelson Gietz" Subject: 6X5's and 2X3's Message-ID: Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 02:44:59 -0700 Folks, I see a lot of discussion over time about the hazards of shorting 6X5's. I have a radio here in the queue with 2X3's. Do they have the same vulnerability generally? Cheers, Nelson Article: 320261 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "DumpsterDiver" Subject: Philco 87 Follow-up & Useful(?) Advice Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 15:29:29 GMT First off, much thanks to all for the very helpful responses to my questions on this set. As to the hum problem, I have it down to an acceptable level now, though NOT by the means I had expected. First, I connected several 2.2 uF capacitors in parallel with various sections of the filter cap tar-box. Net result was a relatively minor hum reduction (from 14 to 12 mV RMS, measured with a scope across the voice coil of the speaker). Next, I started pulling tubes to see if that would make any difference. Removing the RF amplifier tubes (#26) made no difference whatever (I had already adjusted the filament balancing pot for minimum hum). When I removed the audio driver tube (#26), the hum level dropped to around 1 mV. When I put the driver tube back in and connected a 0.47 uF cap between its grid and the chassis ground, that killed the hum just as effectively as removing the tube, so I figured it was getting picked up by the grid lead between the tube socket and the first inter-stage transformer. WRONG! After replacing the wire with a length of shielded / grounded cable, the hum was right back where it started. Finally, I figured maybe the driver tube itself was funky (despite testing like new, no shorts or gas, etc.), so I popped in a NOS #26. GACK! The hum jumped from 14 to 22 mV. A trip up to the cluttered attic yielded up a small box of ancient, grimy, dusty AC tubes. Then, sure enough, each tube I plugged into the driver socket resulted in a different hum level ... from a barely audible 2mV up to a really annoying 36. So, I THINK, the moral of the story is: "You can't trust your trusty tube tester to find a "good" #26 for use in the driver stage". While I had the radio on the bench, I went through my entire pile of #26's and carefully separated the "non-hummers" for future use (about 1 in 5 qualified). Interestingly, the "hummers" seem to work fine in the RF amplifier stages and they don't introduce any noticeable (to my ear) hum or cross modulation when used in those stages. I expect these findings would likely apply to most of the other early AC sets that use #26 tubes in audio stages. Thanks again, DD Article: 320262 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: How do you charge for services Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 10:42:55 -0600 Message-ID: References: ive just seen and experienced firsthand people who end up hating their hobbies because they try to run it as a business while still looking at it as a hobby. its also kind of a bugaboo for your clients. clients that will pay anything near 'going' rate generally WANT to pay. in the case of radios, its worth it to them to throw money at the problem to get that nostalgic feeling. but now not only do they want a good job, they want it done asap. the kind of guy that is willing to give you a radio 'until you get around to it' probably isnt going to pay much. so generally, even if you still think of it as a hobby, your good, well paying clients dont. and for you, it may just all work out... or maybe my world view is totally wrong on this. im just tossing my 2 (well 3 cents now) in. in any case, good luck! randy > Randy, > > I think your comments are very insightful. I do radio restorations because > I enjoy the process and the challenge which is at cross purposes with it > being a pure business. I would almost rather have a challenging chassis > restoration job than a simple one, even though the charge might be the > same. At the same time, I have a need to earn a decent wage to pay the > bills. Gives me something to think about. > Article: 320263 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" Subject: Radio collection up for auction in Minnesota August 14th. Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 17:19:13 GMT http://www.midwestauctions.com/schiele/_private/index.html Click on the August 14th auction. Article: 320264 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: robert casey Subject: Re: Zenith FM IF Transformers References: <3rUHe.16877$sf6.4488@fe08.lga> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 19:09:16 GMT Bob La Rocca wrote: > Thanks Bill just what I needed. > > Looks like 24pF for the FMs and 120pF for the AMs is a good place to start > Regards, Before doing that, try tightening the nut that holds the wafer in the middle of the terminals. That might clear up the intermittent contact to the mica wafer inside. Article: 320265 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: How do you charge for services From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 19:25:15 GMT In article , hacky@smackeycrackey.com says... > > >ive just seen and experienced firsthand people who end up hating their >hobbies because they try to run it as a business while still looking at it >as a hobby. > > >randy > I think your pretty close with your 25 bucks per tube for chassis restoration work.... not sure exactly how to read your pricing on the cabinets etc.. we are at $250 for a strip and refinish on a console cabinet... more if if has wood/veneer problems... and yes I know thats too cheap.... I know a lady that has all the work she wants to do on cabinets only that starts at $500 for a console... she does turn them out looking nearly like piano finishes.... and her customers are impressed and give her more work.. average time to get one back from her is close to one year.... Our backlog is about 3 to 4 months usually.... I keep raising prices in hopes that it will reduce the work... so far that has NOT been the case.... Also I agree with Randy's statement about not ruining a good fun hobby!.. the wife and I have been sort of full time radio restorations now for 7 years since I retired at age 53... now I have two guys that do chassis work for me... both part time... one is a parts changer type.. does a little more sometimes... but at least by the time I get the radio its ready for a smoke test usually... then I get to trouble shoot all the real problems... some days I want OUT ....... For me.... about another whole year and we will be reducing our outside work... John k9uwa Article: 320266 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Philco 40-190 tone control specs??? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 19:29:12 GMT In article , robert.mclean1@sympatico.ca says... > > >Out of curiosity, what is the schematic trying to indicate by labelling the >control with both 6 Meg and 400K ? It does not appear to have an extra tap, >so I do not think it is that. Is the 400K a minimum resistance present even >when the control is turned all the way to one side ? > > > beats me Robert.... I checked last nite two chassis... one a working restored radio that goes out of here today.... the other a boneyard parts chassis ... the tone control on both of them checked around 10 Meg... keep in mind the 1000 ohms pre volt meters that were sorta standard back when these schematics and radios were built.... rather than the Fluke autoranger that I checked them with.... no idea what they were doing with that 400K on the drawing... I fixed Paul up with his parts... John k9uwa Article: 320267 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Philco 87 Follow-up & Useful(?) Advice From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 19:36:03 GMT In article , lagartixa@worldnet.att.net says... > > >I expect these findings would likely apply to most of the other early AC >sets that use #26 tubes in audio stages. > > >DD > > I wonder about the pair of 0.5 Mfd caps that are to take the RF to ground off both sides of the filament wiring?.. are they still in the action in that tar box?.. John k9uwa From adouglasatgis.net Sun Aug 7 01:25:16 EDT 2005 Article: 320268 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Philco 87 Follow-up & Useful(?) Advice Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 16:20:32 -0400 Organization: http://newsguy.com Lines: 4 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: p-924.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!pln-w!spln!rex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news4 Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320268 Hi, Did you re-adjust the hum pot for each tube? Alan Article: 320269 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: Subject: Re: Radio collection up for auction in Minnesota August 14th. Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 21:25:08 GMT "Bruce Mercer" wrote in message news:eNSdnR7Ltsy-rmzfRVn-qA@sigecom.net... > > I love those big round paper coned speakers. I've seen them with > sort of a Greek key design around the edge. I've always wanted one > of those, large size of course.:-) What is the proper name for those > kinds of speakers? (Hey Jim, (aka Secret Santa) now is a good time > to Xmas shop) heh heh........ > > Bruce > You are too late. :o( My buddy Bob just sold one of those at Lansing, a floor model AK with the three-legged wood base. What they are specifically called, I'm not sure. I always thought just "open frame paper cone speakers". They probably have more distinctive names, by brand and model. I guess the person to answer this would be Buford Chidester, he's the only man to go to get these reconed. http://www.angelfire.com/pa/conespeaker/index.html jim menning Article: 320270 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: Ceramic to Magnetic ??? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 17:26:43 -0400 Try a 1 meg pot. Ceramic to high leg, arm to preamp. Set pot for best performance. Measure resistances, and make a voltage divider using fixed resistors nearest values. Pete "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:irudnbqeQIcDmGzfRVn-rg@comcast.com... > I gotta drop a Ceramic half volt output down to a Magnetic input... cant > recall the pi circuit resitor values for that... anyone here know??? Seems > it was 470K on all three resistors. > Mark Oppat > > > Article: 320271 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: David Stinson Subject: Philco 38 Battery Set Message-ID: <43bIe.319$WD.31@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 21:55:12 GMT I have a Philco 38 battery set in pretty good shape. Some cabinet dings but no missing veneer. All the knobs are present. Looks good inside. Has the weird looking speaker magnet. Has not been recapped. The last owner claims it works well, but I haven't powered it. I got it from the Houston club auction and they have a few sellers who tend to say things "work well" if they will just stand up straight, so take that into consideration. BCB and low Shortwave. What are the thoughts on converting this radio to AC? Is there a battery set collector who'd like to have one? Photos on request. Article: 320272 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "george conklin" References: Subject: Re: Ceramic to Magnetic ??? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 22:03:31 GMT " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:oEaIe.168502$go.5945@fed1read05... > Try a 1 meg pot. Ceramic to high leg, arm to preamp. Set pot for best > performance. Measure resistances, and make a voltage divider using > fixed resistors nearest values. > > Pete > > "Mark Oppat" wrote in message > news:irudnbqeQIcDmGzfRVn-rg@comcast.com... >> I gotta drop a Ceramic half volt output down to a Magnetic input... cant >> recall the pi circuit resitor values for that... anyone here know??? > Seems >> it was 470K on all three resistors. >> Mark Oppat >> >> >> > > You will also have a very strange sounding audio output due to equalization differences. Article: 320273 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ron in Radio Heaven Subject: Re: Radio collection up for auction in Minnesota August 14th. References: Message-ID: <0ebIe.88608$3j2.3013473@twister.southeast.rr.com> Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 22:06:52 GMT > You are too late. :o( My buddy Bob just sold one of those at > Lansing, a floor model AK with the three-legged wood base. > Jim, a "Floor model AK", I got to see a photo of that, I'm sure I've never seen a floor model AK speaker. Ron Article: 320274 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ron in Radio Heaven Subject: Re: Very Nice Collection References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 22:15:21 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > anyone here know who this collector is? Must be a member of the Charlotte > AWA. Ron Lawrence, you know this person? > Yes, I know who it is. I talked to him Saturday at our Valdese swap meet. He told me he was planning to sell out. I had no idea he planned to do it this quick. I told him that the best venue for selling it would be the Charlotte Conference. Even though I'm not sure we're up to it yet after the huge estate we just did. I agree that selling it as one lot will be very difficult. It's so varied, from 20s battery sets to tube audio... It's kind of like my novility transistor collection, I'd love to sale it all, but I know I'd take a really big hit trying to do it as one lot. It'll be really interesting to sit back and watch and see how this turns out. Ron Article: 320275 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "John Hagman" Subject: Attention California Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 18:22:25 -0400 Message-ID: <11f2gt05mp0r42a@corp.supernews.com> Ten tubes, RF and 2 variable IF stages, well worth the two hunert' out there. I won 1st place one Fall at the Nashua NH NEARC meet entering mine in the "American Bosch" category. http://cgi.ebay.com/1940s-American-Bosch-Model-595_W0QQitemZ6549606749QQcate goryZ38034QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem John H. Article: 320276 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Lyndell Scott" References: Subject: Re: How do you charge for services Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 22:36:24 GMT Each is separately charged. The $25 per tube is for chassis work only. Article: 320277 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <0ebIe.88608$3j2.3013473@twister.southeast.rr.com> Subject: Re: Radio collection up for auction in Minnesota August 14th. Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 23:19:09 GMT "Ron in Radio Heaven" wrote in message news:0ebIe.88608$3j2.3013473@twister.southeast.rr.com... >> You are too late. :o( My buddy Bob just sold one of those at >> Lansing, a floor model AK with the three-legged wood base. >> > > Jim, a "Floor model AK", I got to see a photo of that, > I'm sure I've never seen a floor model AK speaker. > > Ron I'm pretty sure he said it was an AK product, but I'll confirm with him. I'll be seeing him at the Bolingbrook, Illinois show this week. It was a large paper disc speaker, and it was mounted to a 3-legged wood base on which it pivoted. And I believe it was Chester that reconed it for him. jim menning Article: 320278 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Bob La Rocca" References: <3rUHe.16877$sf6.4488@fe08.lga> Subject: Re: Zenith FM IF Transformers Message-ID: Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 19:27:05 -0400 Hi Bob, I'll give that a try, but since its only one terminal acting this way , I'm not optimistic. but if I can avoid tearing down the xfmr, I will. Thanks again,-- Bob La Rocca Lindenhurst, NY "robert casey" wrote in message news:wD8Ie.362$RZ2.27@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net... > Bob La Rocca wrote: > >> Thanks Bill just what I needed. >> >> Looks like 24pF for the FMs and 120pF for the AMs is a good place to >> start >> Regards, > > Before doing that, try tightening the nut that holds > the wafer in the middle of the terminals. That might > clear up the intermittent contact to the mica wafer > inside. Article: 320279 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: enigma_y_2000@yahoo.com Subject: Needed A-K power transformer for L chassis, model 70, 74,76 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 18:56:45 -0500 Hi, I need a power transformer for an Atwater Kent "L" chassis, which seems to be the same transformer used in the Model 70,74, and 76. Wife has agreed to let me put the radio in the living room when I get it working, so come on guys, help me with a transformer. Please reply to my email address, and thanks in adavance. enigma_y_2000@yahoo.com Article: 320280 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ron in Radio Heaven Subject: Re: Needed A-K power transformer for L chassis, model 70, 74,76 References: Message-ID: Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 00:02:29 GMT > I need a power transformer for an Atwater Kent "L" chassis, which > seems to be the same transformer used in the Model 70,74, and 76. > It'd probably be just as easy to find another L chassis. Most of the time they're cheap to free. I gave 2 away a couple of years ago just to gain the space. Ron Article: 320281 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Old radios and filter caps Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 00:50:28 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1122786556.966158.224460@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6v6dncAZmIZk6nHfRVn-qA@comcast.com> In k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) writes: >In article , tim@panix.com says... >> >> ??? The current's gotta come from =somewhere=. I understand saturation, >>but that doesn't make the transformer more efficient. >Try it and you will see what happens Tim ... take a Zenith tranny from >some 7 or 8 tube model... hook to AC line through your MultiMeter set to >read current.... now put a direct short across the High Voltage line >and see just how much the current level goes up on the Primary... >it won't be up enough to talk about... radio has example a 1 amp line >fuse... radio normal draws 0.7 amps... bet it won't blow the 1 amp >fuse if the HV is shorted... I'll take your word for -- you've got a lot more hands-on experience than I do. I was just curious as to what's going on here. Guess I should go back and re-read one of the long transformer threads we've had here when I get the time. :) -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 320282 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "DumpsterDiver" References: Subject: Re: Philco 87 Follow-up & Useful(?) Advice Message-ID: Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 00:56:39 GMT "Alan Douglas" wrote in message news:om92f1lp19jagj1qugr31dtb90a4rjajql@4ax.com... > Hi, > Did you re-adjust the hum pot for each tube? > > Alan I did this for several of the tubes I checked, but not all I couldn't see or hear any difference unless I moved the pot away from where I found the least hum for the first tube. Seems like the best "null point" for all tubes is virtually the same, even though some tubes nulled out much better than others. For what it's worth (and I don't have a clue as to what it means), when the pot is perfectly set, the hum looks like pure 120 Hz sine wave. But when it's off to one side or the other, I see a mix of 60 and 120Hz, with the 60 Hz component increasing as the pot is set farther off null. In all cases, the extra 120 Hz "wiggle" ended up on the bottom peak of the 60 Hz wave (again, I have no idea what, if anything, this may indicate) (triggering was set on rising voltage). DD Article: 320283 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "DumpsterDiver" References: Subject: Re: Philco 87 Follow-up & Useful(?) Advice Message-ID: Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 00:56:40 GMT "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:D09Ie.214081$x96.108610@attbi_s72... > In article , > lagartixa@worldnet.att.net says... > > > > > I wonder about the pair of 0.5 Mfd caps that are to take the RF to ground > off both sides of the filament wiring?.. are they still in the action > in that tar box?.. > John k9uwa > Actually, these are in a separate rectangular package under the chassis deck, not in the main block. They seem to be OK, but I did check to see if adding an external pair of 0.47 uF caps in series (grounded at midpoint) would make any difference ... result = no change. DD Article: 320284 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 01:05:56 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: In Stephanie Weil writes: >What if you cover the splice with a wrap of friction tape on top of the >rubber electrical tape? Friction tape's getting hard to find! I bought a roll several years ago for a particularly rare set, and I didn't have to go to the ends of the Earth, but I did have to look in a few stores. Otherwise, a good solder splice with shrink tubing is the way to go. If you really wanna get serious, use melt-wall. I've seen heat-shrink tape. Has anyone ever tried that? Always seemed like something that wouldn't work real well, but I've never tried it myself. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 320285 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <42F16A15.77F0D08F@sympatico.ca> From: John Stewart Subject: Re: Need a One Amp Variac References: <1123107481.838753.140860@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1123115279.601584.302900@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <_e6dnfxO6oWy9GzfRVn-pQ@sigecom.net> Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 21:06:29 -0400 Bruce Mercer wrote: > "nesesu" wrote in message > news:1123115279.601584.302900@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > > Bruce, it sounds like these phonos were originally intended to be able > > to run off 32V DC if it is a universal motor, and I suppose they also > > needed some form of speed regulator, so the Variac would make sense. At > > the price you mention, that sounds like a very good deal for a NIB > > Variac. > > > > Neil S. > > > > Yes, they were to operate off 32 volts. 30 mimimum and 36 maximum. They had > a typical ball weight governor for speed control so the variac has no > purpose in that regard. It would > give precisely 32 volts no matter what his actual line voltage is there. > I checked around and couldn't find a 32v.1amp transformer. The 1 amp version > of that variac > at Mouser was 74.00 and the 2 amp would be higher...so I think it is a good > deal even if it went for > more. He had 28 of them so he should be able to pick one of them of for a > reasonable price. > Thanks for the input. > Bruce Hammond lists several transformers that would work. See at the following- http://www.hammondmfg.com/166.htm http://www.hammondmfg.com/266.htm http://www.hammondmfg.com/185.htm Cheers, John Stewart Article: 320286 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Randy or Sherry Guttery Subject: Re: Radio collection up for auction in Minnesota August 14th. References: <0ebIe.88608$3j2.3013473@twister.southeast.rr.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 20:43:17 -0500 Ron in Radio Heaven wrote: > Jim, a "Floor model AK", I got to see a photo of that, > I'm sure I've never seen a floor model AK speaker. In late 1969 or early 1970 - a man brought a speaker into the shop where I worked as a technician (West Covina Electronics). He brought just the speaker in at first - he thought it was bad since he had hooked it to a "regular" radio (i. e. 8 ohms) and it made hardly a peep. I don't remember much about it (model, etc.) other than it looked more like a floor lamp (tall, thin with the speaker on top, oriented up and down- the sides of the housing had speaker cloth). *Seems* like it was about 5ft tall. We explained that hooking it to a "modern" radio wouldn't work and got him to bring the old radio in which turned out to be a 20 big box- first AK I'd ever seen and worked on. Tested the tubes - the output had an open filament. Had to order one. It came in with the afternoon's parts run - and once powered - and the new output tube installed - everything worked. As noted - first time I'd seen an AK in person - made quite an impression. I had always "assumed" it was an AK - since the radio was. Never seen another just like it - and certainly haven't seen one with an AK badge. Then again - coulda been an AK- I don't remember it NOT being an AK - don't remember any badge / label, etc... then again - memory isn't all that good of the thing - it was, after all - just a few years ago... -- randy guttery A Tender Tale - a page dedicated to those Ships and Crews so vital to the United States Silent Service: http://tendertale.com Article: 320287 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 21:59:10 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? References: Message-ID: <5f20$42f17671$4232be0a$4657@COQUI.NET> Tim Mullen wrote: > I've seen heat-shrink tape. > Has anyone ever tried that? Always seemed like something that wouldn't > work real well, but I've never tried it myself. We use some of that in the cable tv biz but mostly outdoors and on large connectors. It works okay but for weather sealing I'm sure heatshrink has it whooped. I've never tried it on a small wire splice. Seems to me like it would be too thick and bulky, takes a day or more to cure. -Bill Article: 320288 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Radio collection up for auction in Minnesota August 14th. Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 02:06:02 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: In "Art's Antique Radios" writes: >also see same auction house for 8/28 That "Double Clock Radio" sure is strange: http://www.midwestauctions.com/schiele/images/0828c-4-MiniaturecrankphonographandDoubleClockRadio.jpg Anybody have any idea what that is? Homebrew? Or some sort of store display? I can't imagine what the intended function would be if this were an end-user product. >"jim menning" wrote in message >news:l07Ie.3523$Zh.1950@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com... >> http://www.midwestauctions.com/schiele/_private/index.html >> >> Click on the August 14th auction. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- From adouglasatgis.net Sun Aug 7 01:25:21 EDT 2005 Article: 320289 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Philco 87 Follow-up & Useful(?) Advice Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 22:00:44 -0400 Organization: http://newsguy.com Lines: 16 Message-ID: <1ct2f1pnjkc5o50r8mu8j1mjv57cbad55k@4ax.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: p-699.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!tethys.csu.net!pln-w!spln!dex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news4 Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320289 Hi, >For what it's worth (and I don't have a clue as to what it means), when the >pot is perfectly set, the hum looks like pure 120 Hz sine wave. But when >it's off to one side or the other, I see a mix of 60 and 120Hz, with the 60 >Hz component increasing as the pot is set farther off null. In all cases, >the extra 120 Hz "wiggle" ended up on the bottom peak of the 60 Hz wave >(again, I have no idea what, if anything, this may indicate) (triggering was >set on rising voltage). As I remember reading, the 26 was designed as a compromise between electrostatic and magnetic hum. That's why the funny filament rating. Presumably the hum-balance pot nulls out the electrostatic hum. I suppose the magnetic could depend on the particular tube geometry. Alan Article: 320290 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: anthony Subject: HMV Monarch Turntable Message-ID: <42f17c0e$1@news.comindico.com.au> Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 02:23:34 GMT Hi I am looking for info on a HMV Monarch Turntable, It has a BSR Type C cartridge (1 ?) which is not installed at present and there is half a schematic(some clever person tore it??) the player is a direct drive with speeds 16,33,45, and 78 the circuit is not so complex so i could work voltages out but which way does the cartidge connect to the wires there is a red, white, green and blick(blue) on the cartridge there is marked and A and an I looking at the circuit 2 wires are connected to ground and 2 are connected together to feed through to the speaker there are 2 pins in the middle which are on the top and there are two pins on the outside (where the A and I leters are located) i expect the 2 inner ones are for the left and right channles and the 2 outer ones are for the ground can anyone confirm this or have any additional info if there is a web page with schematic details then this would be wonderful thanks in advance Anthony From adouglasatgis.net Sun Aug 7 01:25:21 EDT 2005 Article: 320291 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Radio collection up for auction in Minnesota August 14th. Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 22:05:30 -0400 Organization: http://newsguy.com Lines: 10 Message-ID: <7rt2f1dar8guc4kecg0ajs8sak6vninhee@4ax.com> References: <0ebIe.88608$3j2.3013473@twister.southeast.rr.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p-606.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!pln-e!spln!rex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news4 Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:320291 Hi, >It was a large paper disc speaker, and it was mounted to a 3-legged >wood base on which it pivoted. Stromberg-Carlson made a couple of models like that, to resemble tilt-top tables. I believe that one of them did tilt (the one I have does not). Alan Article: 320292 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <0ebIe.88608$3j2.3013473@twister.southeast.rr.com> <7rt2f1dar8guc4kecg0ajs8sak6vninhee@4ax.com> Subject: Re: Radio collection up for auction in Minnesota August 14th. Message-ID: Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 02:41:41 GMT "Alan Douglas" wrote in message news:7rt2f1dar8guc4kecg0ajs8sak6vninhee@4ax.com... > Hi, > >>It was a large paper disc speaker, and it was mounted to a 3-legged >>wood base on which it pivoted. > > Stromberg-Carlson made a couple of models like that, to resemble > tilt-top tables. I believe that one of them did tilt (the one I > have > does not). > > Alan I believe you've nailed it Alan. The speaker Bob had indeed looked just like this Stromberg-Carlson: http://www.estesauctions.com/files/bh_Stromberg_carlson_type_10_speaker.jpg I'm sorry to have mislead anyone by my thinking it was an AK. jim menning Article: 320293 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Adney Subject: Zenith VRD100 VHS VCR, minor (?) problem Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 22:16:40 -0500 Message-ID: I have a Zenith VRD100 VHS VCR made around 1985. It has given me excellent service since my parents passed it on to us in about 1990. Two days ago it stopped responding to the remote control. I've checked the battery and it's fine; it's voltage is okay even while the remote is being used. The remote uses a "J" battery that is supposed to be 6V. It actually measures about 5.7V at this time. I'm assuming that's close enough, or could that make the remote malfunction? I've looked at the remote LED with my video camera, and the LED is lighting, and it appears that it is operating normally. I haven't tried to view the remote LED output on a scope. I figure that either the coding in the remote isn't working properly, so that the signals it's sending out are not recognized, or that something has gone wrong at the receiving end. The remote is in good physical condition, has not been recently dropped or subjected to the "Pepsi Syndrome." Any guesses as to where the problem is most likely to be? As a followup question for those of you who have spent years servicing these machines, is this model one of the good ones worth keeping alive? - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- Article: 320294 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "william_b_noble" References: Subject: Re: Need a One Amp Variac Message-ID: <1123127116.6f0964da56532b16a1246cd2a7e8aed2@teranews> Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2005 20:45:13 -0700 buy a transformer - much cheaper - 36 volts is very common, as is 24 V - I'd get a 24V transfomer with a tapped primary (these are also common) and set the primary voltage to one that is a bit lower than the actual until you get 32V - alternatively I'll bet the motor runs just fine on 24V - worth a try - 1 amp 24 v transformers cost a dollar or two "Bruce Mercer" wrote in message news:JNydnf6WiLPdr2zfRVn-2w@sigecom.net... > I'm trying to help a fellow phonograph collector. He needs a one amp > variac to reduce line voltage to 32 volts AC. This goes to a universal > motor in a 1924 Victor Victrola. It had dropping resistors in it but they > are toast. I saw one on ebay...starting bid 10.00 but thought maybe > somebody in the group could help me/him out. After doing a quick Google, > either they don't list the prices or are too big, like the one I have on > my bench. > Thanks > > Bruce > Article: 320295 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DaveW Subject: Anyone know this guy? comments? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 04:14:22 GMT http://cgi.ebay.com/Antique-Radio-Service_W0QQitemZ5793526663QQcategoryZ50595QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem A quick check of the guy's feedback reveals that he sells assorted used electronics and merchandise, but did get positive feedback on service for a Bose Wave Radio (yuck). Regards, DAve Article: 320296 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Mueller Subject: Re: Taping Tip was Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2005 21:57:18 -0700 Message-ID: References: <18311-42EF69BF-217@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 09:10:00 -0600, xrongor wrote: > > "Ken G." wrote in message > news:18311-42EF69BF-217@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net... >>I use heat shrink tubing it seems to stay pretty good . > > even with heat shrink, its still a good idea to stagger the wires. > > randy It also makes a narrower splice. It looks better. -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Article: 320297 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 02:10:19 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: How do you charge for services References: Message-ID: Gary Tayman wrote: > > The problem with low repairs prices is that it attracts the riff-raff. "I > don't want my radio to be converted; I want to keep it all-original." If > the car in question is a 1936 Packard One-Twenty, I'll buy it -- but usually > I get this from somebody with a 72 Nova with reverse wheels, lake pipes, > hood scoop, and flames painted on the sides. He wants the repair because he > assumes it's cheap, and if you give him an estimate of $25 or more he'll get > cold feet. Good riddance, because this is the same guy who will nit-pick > for months on end because his radio gets static whenever he starts the car. > "It didn't do that before" (when it didn't work). This has been one of the hardest things for me to adapt to in decades of messing with electronics. I learned early not to work on the neighbor's TV set just to be a nice guy. I'm only a hobbyist and don't want to have the income aspect to affect my perspective. I'd rather do the job for free for someone I know...and to have the pleasure of working on such-n-such model that I might not be able to buy for myself. No 'friend' would dare bitch about a free job. I simply couldn't do this kind of work for a living. Its not in my nature to equate big repair fees to my leisure hobby. I couldn't sell used cars either! Yeah, thats a hobbyist perspective but I totally agree with the riff-raff and $25 charges - thats nothing but problems. You have to be either fully in the business or out of it. In almost every case, my "friend repairs" have paid me more than I would have ever had the balls to charge so I understand what people WILL pay. -Bill M Article: 320298 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 02:47:11 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Shipping from Canada to US? References: Message-ID: Phil Nelson wrote: > This is my first experience having something shipped from Canada to the US, > and I'm wondering about something. If you look at the UPS log below this > message, it appears that the package spent a full day in Michigan waiting > for some kind of clearance. (Note that the log is in reverse chronological > order.) > > Who is the "clearing agency?" US Customs? Department of Homeland Security? > What do they need to clear? The short answer is that "somebody" has to be the responsible party in getting things thru Customs. That may be a simple matter of transporting the stuff from Point A to Point B and signing off on some paperwork. In the most technical sense, an international shipment stops at the border for inspection, just like you would as a person travelling. The authorites are obliged to assess it for duties, inspect it for contraband or prohibited materials, etc before reassigning it to a carrier for delivery in their country. Yes, its a formality for routine shipping and Customs has the option of simply looking at the outside of the box and sending it on its way. When they actually open a parcel to inspect it...one, the good packing may be compromised, and two, it may be held up for duties to be paid and thats where the broker comes in. Forms to fill out, money to be paid. The Canada-US connection seems to work fairly seamlessly. I still haven't figured out how NAFTA is supposed to figure into the act. Duties may not be assessed but the documentation and inspection is still necessary even on duty-free transactions. I'm in Puerto Rico which is part of the US but we have some of our own import taxes and prohibitions. The local US Post Office simply ignores the local crapola because they are dealing at a Federal level and have the luxury of telling the local import tax people (Hacienda) to bug off. They don't get paid, or have jurisdiction, to collect local taxes. UPS, on the other hand, is required to comply and collect import taxes. If you send me a $1000 radio via UPS they will first send me the paperwork to carry to Hacienda to pay the tax, then I send them the paid receipts before they will deliver. Hacienda does the inspection. If your shipment were 'coffee', for instance, I would not only owe the 6% import tax but I would also owe the $2.50 a pound since there is a special tax on imported coffee! In this case I am acting as my own import broker. I can pay a third party to do this and that third party could well be UPS and they can charge me for the service. Thats usually included in their fees. Well worth paying for unless YOU want to go to the Customs Warehouse at the Port-Of-Entry and do all of this on your own. -Bill M Article: 320299 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Nelson Gietz" References: Subject: Re: Shipping from Canada to US? Message-ID: <5ajIe.619$ps5.6274@news1.mts.net> Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 02:08:49 -0700 "Phil Nelson" wrote in message news:JdSdnZ2dnZ2OJ_-NnZ2dnTEsbN-dnZ2dRVn-0J2dnZ0@giganews.com... > This is my first experience having something shipped from Canada to the US, > and I'm wondering about something. If you look at the UPS log below this > message, it appears that the package spent a full day in Michigan waiting > for some kind of clearance. (Note that the log is in reverse chronological > order.) > > Who is the "clearing agency?" US Customs? Department of Homeland Security? > What do they need to clear? > > Who is "brokerage?" The US flavor of UPS? Some nameless middleman with a > cartridge belt over his shoulder and his hand out waiting for money? Why is > a broker needed (silly me, I thought we had free trade and open borders)? > > When it says "shipment submitted to clearing agency," does that mean the > package actually changes hands in Detroit (yet another opportunity to drop > or crush it)? Or are messages just being exchanged between reely reely slow > computers? > > Waiting an extra day is no big deal, I'm just curious what this is all > about, and whether one might ship things more quickly through another > avenue. > > Regards, > > Phil Nelson > Phil's Old Radios > > <<<< UPS transit log >>>> > Aug 1, 2005 > 8:18 P.M. DETROIT, MI, US DEPARTURE SCAN > 6:36 P.M. DETROIT, MI, US IMPORT SCAN > 6:24 P.M. DETROIT, MI, US IMPORT SCAN > 1:45 P.M. DETROIT, MI, US PACKAGE DATA PROCESSED BY BROKERAGE. WAITING > FOR CLEARANCE;RELEASED BY CLEARING AGENCY. NOW IN-TRANSIT FOR DELIVERY > 1:45 P.M. DETROIT, MI, US REGISTERED WITH CLEARING AGENCY;RELEASED BY > CLR AGENCY. NOW IN-TRANSIT > 11:32 A.M. DETROIT, MI, US REGISTERED WITH CLEARING AGENCY;SHIPMENT > SUBMITTED TO CLEARING AGENCY > 9:29 A.M. DETROIT, MI, US REGISTERED WITH CLEARING AGENCY;SHIPMENT > SUBMITTED TO CLEARING AGENCY > 9:04 A.M. DETROIT, MI, US PACKAGE DATA PROCESSED BY BROKERAGE. WAITING > FOR CLEARANCE > 8:45 A.M. DETROIT, MI, US PACKAGE DATA PROCESSED BY BROKERAGE. WAITING > FOR CLEARANCE > > Jul 30, 2005 > 12:56 A.M. > CONCORD, ON, CA > ORIGIN SCAN > Phil, As far as I can see, "brokerage" is a ripoff either direction. As you note, under NAFTA there should be no duty paid, which as far as I understand it, is the only reason a "broker" would want to stick his/her dirty little fingers in it. Yet we still get nicked at times with a "brokerage fee". I once paid about 3X the price of an unusual resistor from the U-S to Canada for "brokerage" by UPS. Swore off those guys. Fortunately Canada Post doesn't bother with brokerage for stuff under about $20. Re the rest, I dunno. Cheers, Nelson Article: 320300 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 03:51:15 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Shipping from Canada to US? References: <5ajIe.619$ps5.6274@news1.mts.net> Message-ID: <6a02a$42f1c8f8$4232bd45$24865@COQUI.NET> Nelson Gietz wrote: > Phil, > As far as I can see, "brokerage" is a ripoff either direction. As you > note, under NAFTA there should be no duty paid, which as far as I understand > it, is the only reason a "broker" would want to stick his/her dirty little > fingers in it. Yet we still get nicked at times with a "brokerage fee". I > once paid about 3X the price of an unusual resistor from the U-S to Canada > for "brokerage" by UPS. Swore off those guys. > Fortunately Canada Post doesn't bother with brokerage for stuff under > about $20. > Re the rest, I dunno. > Cheers, > Nelson I've done my own brokering for big shipments in four different countries as well as having paid others to do it. I'd pay a 'connected' broker his fee in a heartbeat to avoid the hassle. If you don't know the intricacies of Customs import laws you can hang yourself. Kinda like being your own lawyer. Case in point...I received a new pair of prescription eyeglasses via mail in one country and they assessed duty. A good broker will know to list them under the category of 'binoculars' or some other medical aid which is duty-free. Eyewear and jewellery are not and are heavily taxed. The giant-sized 11x17 inch form still must be filled out either way and somebody either has to make queue at a window to submit the form or have their procedure nailed down to submission of a bunch of bulk computer printouts. Pay $5 for the service? You betcha. This paperwork procedure is part of International agreements. Thats what you are paying for when you pay a brokerage fee. -BM Article: 320301 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: A meter from Klaatu's spaceship Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 08:47:56 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: Check this out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7535631313 That's one weird-ass looking meter. Anyone know what it does? No, it's not mine, and I'm not curious enough to pester the guy selling it. I was curious enough to google, which brought no joy. This thing looks like a desk set got caught in the Weston line. Maybe it's to tell if the Earth's been standing still for 24 hours? -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 320302 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <1123126259.049496.4080@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <5qCdnbJEf6FkOGzfRVn-gw@comcast.com> Subject: Re: Philco 16 deco tombstone Message-ID: Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 06:27:24 -0400 "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:5qCdnbJEf6FkOGzfRVn-gw@comcast.com... > These usually sell $300+ so that is a fair price. The vernier tuning always > needs degreasing and relubing. > This is one of the best table sets of the 30's. > > Mark Oppat > dual o'ring drive system, with a half moon rubber friction drive system on the tuning cap. All easily reached and repaired. Pete Article: 320303 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <1123126259.049496.4080@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <5qCdnbJEf6FkOGzfRVn-gw@comcast.com> Subject: Re: Philco 16 deco tombstone Message-ID: Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 06:29:24 -0400 Also, I have several 16Bs. The real art deco one in my opinion is the other tombstone that resembles the 44/144 style. Pete Article: 320304 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" References: <5ajIe.619$ps5.6274@news1.mts.net> <6a02a$42f1c8f8$4232bd45$24865@COQUI.NET> Subject: Re: Shipping from Canada to US? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 08:16:15 -0400 "-ex-" wrote in message news:6a02a$42f1c8f8$4232bd45$24865@COQUI.NET... > Case in point...I received a new pair of prescription eyeglasses via mail > in one country and they assessed duty. A good broker will know to list > them under the category of 'binoculars' or some other medical aid which is > duty-free. Eyewear and jewellery are not and are heavily taxed. The > giant-sized 11x17 inch form still must be filled out either way and > somebody either has to make queue at a window to submit the form or have > their procedure nailed down to submission of a bunch of bulk computer > printouts. Pay $5 for the service? You betcha. > > This paperwork procedure is part of International agreements. Thats what > you are paying for when you pay a brokerage fee. > > -BM You really think a broker will risk his license to lie on a sworn statement? -- "Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs." regards, Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario Article: 320305 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: Shipping from Canada to US? Message-ID: References: Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 13:42:25 GMT I can tell you that I refuse to use UPS for shipping when ordering stuff from a U.S. source to go to Canada. Their "brokerage" charge is exhorbitant, considering that the only thing they do is help the federal government collect its 7% GST on the sale of the item. I've only used UPS once in recent years; that for a parcel that was too big for Canada Post/USPS. AFAIK, in most trans-border shipment of used consumer goods, there are no duties in effect any longer, but there may be state/provincial sales tax, and coming into Canada, the GST. Gordon Richmond Article: 320306 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 10:19:50 -0400 From: -ex- Subject: Re: Shipping from Canada to US? References: <5ajIe.619$ps5.6274@news1.mts.net> <6a02a$42f1c8f8$4232bd45$24865@COQUI.NET> Message-ID: <9546f$42f22409$4232bd15$32177@COQUI.NET> Buck Frobisher wrote: > > You really think a broker will risk his license to lie on a sworn statement? > The descriptions are very nebulous. There's thousands of categories in the Harmonized Tariff Code and things can often classify in more than one of them. In the case of prescription eyeglasses, they clearly qualify as much in a medical aid category as they would with costume jewellery. My point was that a good broker knows these things that you and I don't. -Bill Article: 320307 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Eico 232/249 VTVM Battery Question References: <1123168712.881619.263290@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <2EqIe.582$ah4.536@lakeread05> Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 11:38:35 -0400 The battery is usually for ohms measurment only. Ken Geoff wrote: > I have an Eico 249 that I've fully refurbished and had a question > about the battery I'm supposed to install. I only plan on using the > VTVM to measure AC and/or DC during alignments and will rely on my DMM > for resistance measurements. Can I permanently leave the battery out of > the VTVM if I don't plan on using the Ohms function? Looking at the > schematic and service information I believe the answers is Yes but > I'd like someone else to confirm this. I hate the idea of leaving a > battery in if it's never going to be needed. > > Thanks, > Geoff > Article: 320308 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Robinson" Subject: My Theremin Project Message-ID: Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 16:49:35 GMT Hi All, Just posted some picts of my PAIA Theremin project on the binaries. If interested, have a look. Regards, Mark Article: 320309 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" References: Subject: Re: Philco 40-190 tone control specs??? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 17:35:47 GMT > I fixed Paul up with his parts... > > John k9uwa > > Thanks John, Check is in the tomorrow morning mail! Paul. Article: 320310 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Al Z." References: Subject: Re: What's the Problem with Duct Tape? Message-ID: <1123178200.2ab5c4a61b5c9d3588a92da92a061616@teranews> Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 14:55:18 -0400 I wonder how many miles of friction tape we all used to make or repair baseballs and to wrap bat or stickball handles. "Tim Mullen" wrote in message news:dcrplk$hm6$2@reader2.panix.com... > In Stephanie Weil writes: > > >What if you cover the splice with a wrap of friction tape on top of the > >rubber electrical tape? > > Friction tape's getting hard to find! I bought a roll several years > ago for a particularly rare set, and I didn't have to go to the ends of > the Earth, but I did have to look in a few stores. > > Otherwise, a good solder splice with shrink tubing is the way to go. > If you really wanna get serious, use melt-wall. I've seen heat-shrink tape. > Has anyone ever tried that? Always seemed like something that wouldn't > work real well, but I've never tried it myself. > > -- > Tim Mullen > ------------------------------------------------------------------ > Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. > ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 320311 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: 112 vintage LP records-Ebay-$10 From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1123112255.221028.242000@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1123121234.546708.266500@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <31uIe.237787$nG6.199221@attbi_s22> Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 19:30:07 GMT In article <1123121234.546708.266500@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, garyb@citicom.com says... > > >Wow. I'll give you a buck, and use them for target practice. > I got Extremely LUCKY .... I have a niece that wanted a bunch of old Albums.... I unloaded 1,000 pounds worth of them on her in June... had to haul them to Missouri to get rid of the things! Kept a total of 15 Albums .... and a new strict rule.... NO MORE ALBUMS COME INTO THIS HOUSE! John k9uwa Article: 320312 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Bolingbrook Radiofest From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1123121380.647684.173950@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 19:35:42 GMT In article <1123121380.647684.173950@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>, garyb@citicom.com says... > > >Why is this thing on Thursday, Friday, and then when the rest of us can >make it for left overs, Saturday? No offense. I enjoyed last year's >fest, but isn't it time for a change in schedule to let's say attract >more people? > Ah ... a new complainer I see.... in past years I have been told that the "Club Membership" voted to keep it this way!... but then the "Club" is continuing to SHRINK in membership... wonder if ILL will wake up before the have completely killed the radiomeet?.... INDIANA CLUB ... are you listening?........... same problem! John k9uwa Article: 320313 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "William R. Walsh" References: Subject: Re: Zenith VRD100 VHS VCR, minor (?) problem Message-ID: Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 19:37:59 GMT Hi! > I have a Zenith VRD100 VHS VCR made around 1985. It has given me > excellent service since my parents passed it on to us in about 1990. The remotes that came with these (I had an earlier Zenith VCR--still a JVC made unit like yours--whose remote also just died one day.) are somewhat famous for just dying. Mine would still output IR light but it would not run the VCR. New batteries didn't make a difference--and it too used that funny "J" battery type. > Two days ago it stopped responding to the remote control. I've checked > the battery and it's fine; it's voltage is okay even while the remote > is being used. The remote uses a "J" battery that is supposed to be > 6V. It actually measures about 5.7V at this time. I'm assuming that's > close enough, or could that make the remote malfunction? The battery is probably fine...I'd expect that the remote should work down to about 4.5 volts or so, then it will start acting funny or (more likely) having a drastically reduced range of operation. > I figure that either the coding in the remote isn't working properly, > so that the signals it's sending out are not recognized, or that > something has gone wrong at the receiving end. Receiving is generally tied into the front panel control electronics--so if something had gone wrong there, I would expect that your VCR would also have problems with those controls. > The remote is in good physical condition, has not been recently > dropped or subjected to the "Pepsi Syndrome." > Any guesses as to where the problem is most likely to be? The remote is almost certainly the problem. Mine died in the same way with a VCR similar to yours. A $10 universal remote solved all my problems. When the remote died it looked to be in excellent condition inside and out. There was no obvious failure. > As a followup question for those of you who have spent years servicing > these machines, is this model one of the good ones worth keeping > alive? I am of the belief that compared to today's super-cheap all-plastic machines that any older VCR is a far better deal. It's very possible to keep an older VCR running like new just by keeping the heads clean, replacing rubber parts (if needed) and replacing the lamp used in some really old units if it burns out. Other less common stuff that can go wrong include worn heads, power supply capacitors and lubrication issues. These aren't always cheap to fix, but it may be worth it. Whereas with a new unit--if something goes wrong out of the warranty, you might as well get a new one. Just recently I redid a very nice Zenith hi-fi stereo unit from 1986...apart >from worn out rubber parts it is in perfect operating condition. I can you tell you right now that I would much rather put an irreplaceable tape into a working 15 year old VCR than I would a new unit. The old ones are just that much better made. William Article: 320314 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: UPDATE on Bill Turner From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) Message-ID: Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2005 19:39:10 GMT With a little luck... Bill will escape that nursing home either late this week or early next week... talked to him last nite on the phone.. It is going to be a little tough as Bill will be at least for now in a wheelchair.... but thats better than being in Nursing Home!.. I am sure that we should hear from him on Internet shortly! John k9uwa Article: 320315 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "John Hagman" Subject: Re: Attn. Hagstar Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 16:17:59 -0400 Message-ID: <11f4tvmk6bh6ia7@corp.supernews.com> References: "Bruce Mercer" wrote in message news:bbWdnfo-YqW2TnPfRVn-1w@sigecom.net... > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6549903436&ssPageNam e=STRK:MEWA:IT > It didn't go cheap it turns out, but this IS a super high tech wind up for sure. John H. Article: 320316 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: A meter from Klaatu's spaceship Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 21:26:12 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1123170789.937218.37160@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> In "Bruce Mercer" writes: >This Weston was obviously for teaching but still cool. The one mentioned >above looks like it's been spray painted...those screws and the plate are >all the same color. >http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6197322077&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT "But still cool"? Whaddya got against teaching, Bruce? :) Just kidding. Had to yank your chain. :) A buddy has a Weston that, I kid you not, is four feet across. Takes three standard Edison base bulbs to back-light the scale. He told me he has a picture of it in use in a lecture hall at Columbia University,