Article: 330775 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mike Schultz" References: Subject: Re: HELP, Still need a 8" platter Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 12:21:30 GMT I have a platter, but it needs to be reflocked. Would that help? Yours if you pay shipping. -- Mike Schultz "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:Nbqdnc-wJc4M2GTenZ2dnUVZ_tKdnZ2d@comcast.com... > Still need a 8" platter for a cheap 1940 era Detrola made Truetone > radio/phono. No changer. > > it drops on to a tapered spindle. Check your junk pile stuff. this phono > motor was probably used in other cheaper models of that era. > > Also, still need a '41 era Philco Beam of Light arm. > > Mark Oppat > > > Article: 330776 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: My Aching Back Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 08:09:16 -0500 Message-ID: <11vjfs0h7e9itb0@corp.supernews.com> References: <11vi44k3gea1i2a@corp.supernews.com> <11vi77qc2f8d70a@corp.supernews.com> I planned to get another 16B tombstone, but instead you'll be happy to know now I'm keeping mine. The other two will get sold somehow- I don't make a habit of though of having too many radios around that have exactly the same chassis. John H. " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:hbaKf.11118$2c4.4535@dukeread11... > > BTW, breaks my heart to see you selling those BiG Philcos. I have most > versions of the 16B tabletops, including the cathedral, and the 116 > tombstone. > The cathedral could go, but the others are keepers. Article: 330777 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: OT -- Gas grille problem -- maybe not OT References: <57iKf.32573$Jd.24625@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 13:09:39 GMT I have a Weber and use it year round. It also has the flavor bars which seem to work very good to prevent flare ups. There is a safety valve that will prevent the gas from coming on full blast if the burner controls are left open and the tank turned on. What you have to do is turn the tank off. Now turn off the burner controls. You must have them in the off position when you open the tank valve. Wait 5 seconds then open your burner valve and hit the igniter. You should now have the full flame and cook a dog in 5 mins. Carter, K8VT wrote: > Gary Tayman wrote: > >> My wife had to work late this evening. When she finally arrived home, >> she opened the refrigerator, pulled out some hot dogs, and asked if I >> could grille them. >> >> Now -- yes indeed, I live in Sarasota where it's 80 degrees out, so >> outdoor grilling isn't a problem. But what IS a problem is the grille >> itself. My old grille was getting pretty ragged, and I ended up >> having to get rid of all my gas bottles because it's now illegal to >> fill them. A birthday was coming up so my parents brought over a >> brand new gas grille. What a treat -- not! >> >> There are no lava rocks, and I can no longer add mequite chips, as it >> all has been replaced with some sort of "flavor plate" or whatever. >> Essentially it doesn't do half the job the older one did. Those hot >> dogs -- well, I just finished dinner and it's after 11pm. I thought >> I'd be eating them for breakfast! > > You said "brand new". If it was the first time you used it, any chance > of operator error or a defect right out of the box? Lava rocks or not, > you would think you could turn the flame up high enough to carbonized > the dogs in 10 minutes... > > Carter in Michigan, where the wind chill is ten below and grilling > season is a long way off. :-( Article: 330778 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <57iKf.32573$Jd.24625@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net> Subject: Re: OT -- Gas grille problem -- maybe not OT Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 13:20:27 GMT No, actually I've been using it for several months now. It's amazing -- certain meats cook fairly fast, others take an eternity, and the leaner it is, the longer it takes. I suppose on the older types, the juice drips down and "lights up" the lava rocks; on this one it just doesn't seem to get hot enough even though there's plenty of fire. My daughter's boyfriend's dad owns a store that sells those Green Eggs. Although a bit pricey, they do a great job and they come in some fairly nice enclosures with tables, racks, etc. Bear in mind that my grille, as with his, is not totally outdoors but on the lanai. When grilling I make sure the screens are open; the cross-ventilation blows out the smoke. But the Eggs are charcoal -- which means instead of spending an hour cooking, I spend an hour getting it hot. Plus there's the ashes, etc. Still, I think people are migrating back to those because of the problems with the newer gas grilles. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Carter, K8VT" wrote in message news:57iKf.32573$Jd.24625@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net... > Gary Tayman wrote: > >> My wife had to work late this evening. When she finally arrived home, >> she opened the refrigerator, pulled out some hot dogs, and asked if I >> could grille them. >> >> Now -- yes indeed, I live in Sarasota where it's 80 degrees out, so >> outdoor grilling isn't a problem. But what IS a problem is the grille >> itself. My old grille was getting pretty ragged, and I ended up having >> to get rid of all my gas bottles because it's now illegal to fill them. >> A birthday was coming up so my parents brought over a brand new gas >> grille. What a treat -- not! >> >> There are no lava rocks, and I can no longer add mequite chips, as it all >> has been replaced with some sort of "flavor plate" or whatever. >> Essentially it doesn't do half the job the older one did. Those hot >> dogs -- well, I just finished dinner and it's after 11pm. I thought I'd >> be eating them for breakfast! > > You said "brand new". If it was the first time you used it, any chance of > operator error or a defect right out of the box? Lava rocks or not, you > would think you could turn the flame up high enough to carbonized the dogs > in 10 minutes... > > Carter in Michigan, where the wind chill is ten below and grilling season > is a long way off. :-( Article: 330779 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Lyndell Scott" References: <1140394758.791652.224310@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <_rCdnQYojdX7oWTeRVn-iw@bresnan.com> Subject: Re: How do you glue veneer? Message-ID: <6yjKf.1631$%m4.1260@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com> Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 13:32:50 GMT One reason I dislike contact cement is that one has to be so careful not to let the surfaces come in contact with each other before the veneer has been positioned. This requires using something to keep the surfaces separated while the veneer is positioned and then removing the separators, hoping the veneer is in the correct position. A mistake requires using a solvent to re-desolve the contact cement to start the process over again. With the iron on method the veneer can be positioned precisely before applying heat. BTW the same iron on method can be used for grille cloth. I use it or spray on contact cement depending on the situation. In this case whether using carpenter's glue or contact cement the glue is only applied to the wood or cardboard surface or it will bleed through the fabric. -- Lyndell Scott Audio Antiques http://home.flash.net/~lfscott/ Article: 330780 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: GR 1310B what is it for ? Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 06:37:33 -0700 Message-ID: <28616-43F9C61D-2755@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net> GR 1310 B Oscillator . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/ken123/8b779be4.jpg What is this for . how can it be used ? I cannot read tiny manual print on my monitor or download with webtv . Thanks . Article: 330781 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Rune" References: <1140211989.472562.279990@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 13:48:11 GMT I just _wish_ the ones near here had #47 bulbs and adapters in stock. The last 4 times I needed them I had to drive 2 counties over to get them. 7 RS's here and only one stocks the stuff. Since they condemned the parts to a cabinet they seldom have bulbs in stock anymore. Asking the manager just results in putdowns about how it doesn't pay to have the stuff or an offer to order it from another store. They used to have a whole wall of adapters and cables. Now they just have a little row in a corner. I needed a mini-stereo (walkman headphone) to two RCA cord and they had mono to two RCA, no stereo plugs if you wanted to change it, no 1/4" stereo to 2 RCA, etc. No way of getting there. I ended up getting one at Wal-Mart. Last cable I looked for there was a RCA video/audio cable. They wanted $25.00 for it. Had two sizes: Too Short and Too Long. Got it elsewhere for $7.00 Batteries are back to Wal-Mart selection. AA, AAA, C, D. 9V, a few coin types, and some cordless and cell phone types. Need anything else and it's a special order. Many more stories in that vein. The problem is that they can't decide what niche to focus on and don't stick with it. They were the computer place, then the home theater place, then the battery store, then cell phones. One nice thing they do have is their website. It tracks inventory at the stores. Look up a piece and it tells you what stores have it/don't have it. Saves a lot of hopping around/gas. Phone is useless with them. I'll watch for their announcements, hit the site, and make a list of what to save. Ray "Ken Scharf" wrote in message news:RZ0Kf.48646$697.33032@bignews3.bellsouth.net... > Well they are the only place in town when you need a few #47 bulbs NOW. > They also have all the various combos of adapter plugs when you need > to do something like use stereo earphones with a portable TV (mono), > or share a walkman with two sets of earphones, or connect the 1/8" > stereo output of your computer audio card to your stereo (rca plugs). > > BTW does anybody still call "phono" plugs "RCA", and auto antenna > connectors "Motorola" plugs? Or is my age showing? Article: 330782 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" Subject: Needles Message-ID: <2PjKf.3407$JR6.1939@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 13:50:54 GMT For all you audiophiles and vinyl (and shellac) specialists: Since I've wanted to pick up a good needle anyway, and since I'll soon be sifting through stacks of 78's from that truckload of stuff, I'm now on the hunt for a good 78 rpm needle. I have two Stanton STR8-80 turntables, one equipped with a 500 and the other with a 520 cartridge. For the nit -pickers, it's really not a 500, but a 500 ES mkII V15 XP Series 7 type 4 X12, or some such nonsense. Same with the 520. Before purchasing I'll have to go out and check the exact numbers on the cartridges. In any case I've been told that Stanton has discontinued the 78 needles, so I did a little Internet surfing to see what different outfits have to offer -- and found hardly anything. So -- next stop was trusty Garage-A-Records. For the Stanton 500 (I think the suffixes match mine) they show three grades of 78 needles. The first is a "general purpose" which is a 3 mil round, that goes for $35. The next is a 2.7 mil round that's about $60. The third is an elliptical, that's rated "for all electrical and most acoustical, Edison Diamond Disks, and 16" transcriptions." This one lists for $140, but goes for the sale price of $130. Now my question: what's the difference? These records were originally designed for 3 mil needles if I'm not mistaken, so what's the advantage of a 2.7? And then there's elliptical. I've always thought the advantage of an elliptical is better high-frequency tracking; the groove of a high-pitched tone might look like a caterpillar and an ellipse might track it more precisely, but that same caterpillar on an LP would look more like an Olympic slalom on a 78. I'm tempted to go with the $60 needle because it's the "deluxe" one while the $35 version is the "cheap" one. But is there really a difference, or are we splitting hairs? Of course, if someone has a better solution in the form of a cartridge/needle for playing 78's, I'm not against picking up another headshell and getting a cartridge. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 330783 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Rune" References: <1140211989.472562.279990@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <1140222384.294158.109460@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <43F8CF1E.ED0CFABB@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 13:59:51 GMT Exactly. But they still carried a wide variety of stuff for decades. Their new catalog used to be like the toy catalog when we were kids. Eagerly awaited and snapped up. Then they didn't want to be held to it. Now... Now they put all their apples in one cart and jump to some other exclusive when that doesn't work. No variety, no fall-back. It's cell phones or bust. They don't even support stuff they sold a year or so ago. I don't know how many times I've overheard "We don't carry that stuff anymore. Go somewhere else." Not a way to build business. You shouldn't teach your customers to go elsewhere. Ray "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message news:43F8CF1E.ED0CFABB@earthlink.net... > Rune wrote: >> >> I was going through some old stuff a few weeks back and came across an >> OLD >> Radio Shack flyer. Back before they had stores everywhere and when even >> Lafayette and Allied were mail order. They carried unbelievable stuff. >> Air >> compressors, generators, even rifles! Then they started spreading out and >> making their inventory homogenous. >> >> It looks like we've come full circle. Mail order, regional stores, local >> stores, useless stores, no special order, back to mail order. > > > They started out as a ham radio and electronic surplus business. > When they started to open stores they had to have a steady inventory to > draw in the average person on the street, and enough to keep the shelves > and hooks full. You can't do that with surplus. > > > -- > Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to > prove it. > Member of DAV #85. > > Michael A. Terrell > Central Florida Article: 330784 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <57iKf.32573$Jd.24625@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net> Subject: Re: OT -- Gas grille problem -- maybe not OT Message-ID: <2fkKf.12696$2c4.2735@dukeread11> Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 09:20:42 -0500 "Lou deGonzague" wrote in message news:ncjKf.10116$Zl1.9357@twister.nyroc.rr.com... > I have a Weber and use it year round. It also has the flavor bars which > seem to work very good to prevent flare ups. There is a safety valve > that will prevent the gas from coming on full blast if the burner > controls are left open and the tank turned on. What you have to do is > turn the tank off. Now turn off the burner controls. You must have them > in the off position when you open the tank valve. Wait 5 seconds then > open your burner valve and hit the igniter. You should now have the full > flame and cook a dog in 5 mins. > I have a Weber, too. And what Lou says about the new propane tanks is true! My grill went into the low heat mode, and it took a bit too get the gas working like it should. Can you look at the burners to verify they are all lit with full flame? Pete Article: 330785 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Lyndell Scott" References: <1140394758.791652.224310@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <_rCdnQYojdX7oWTeRVn-iw@bresnan.com> <6yjKf.1631$%m4.1260@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com> Subject: Re: How do you glue veneer? Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 14:47:00 GMT Searching the web for a veneer specific PVA mentioned by John, I came across this site that also explains the process http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/ironon.html . My technique differs a little in that I use a spreader, either my finger or a putty knife to apply the glue. Found this works better from my experience than just brushing it on. I only apply on coat to each surface and do not thin it. Again, found this works better in my experience than thinning or applying more than one coat. I think the thinner the coat that completely covers the surface, the better, as there is less chance of movement from elasticity over time. I apply the iron directly to veneer as a cloth always got in my way or did not allow enough heat transfer. Light sanding always takes care of any scorching... just don't allow the iron to stay in one position too long, but move it slowly across the surface at an even rate. I also found that veneer is now being sold pre-coated with PVA. I seems it is becoming more and more an accepted procedure. -- Lyndell Scott Audio Antiques http://home.flash.net/~lfscott/ Article: 330786 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43F9DC6A.AF66BBB0@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack References: <1140211989.472562.279990@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 15:12:42 GMT Rune wrote: > > I just _wish_ the ones near here had #47 bulbs and adapters in stock. The > last 4 times I needed them I had to drive 2 counties over to get them. > > 7 RS's here and only one stocks the stuff. > > Since they condemned the parts to a cabinet they seldom have bulbs in stock > anymore. Asking the manager just results in putdowns about how it doesn't > pay to have the stuff or an offer to order it from another store. > > They used to have a whole wall of adapters and cables. Now they just have a > little row in a corner. I needed a mini-stereo (walkman headphone) to two > RCA cord and they had mono to two RCA, no stereo plugs if you wanted to > change it, no 1/4" stereo to 2 RCA, etc. No way of getting there. I ended up > getting one at Wal-Mart. > > Last cable I looked for there was a RCA video/audio cable. They wanted > $25.00 for it. Had two sizes: Too Short and Too Long. Got it elsewhere for > $7.00 > > Batteries are back to Wal-Mart selection. AA, AAA, C, D. 9V, a few coin > types, and some cordless and cell phone types. Need anything else and it's a > special order. > > Many more stories in that vein. > > The problem is that they can't decide what niche to focus on and don't stick > with it. They were the computer place, then the home theater place, then the > battery store, then cell phones. > > One nice thing they do have is their website. It tracks inventory at the > stores. Look up a piece and it tells you what stores have it/don't have it. > Saves a lot of hopping around/gas. Phone is useless with them. > > I'll watch for their announcements, hit the site, and make a list of what to > save. > > Ray I'd like to have a couple dozen of those big Radio Shack parts cabinets they put the carded components in for my shop. It would be a great way to store all those oddball parts. Stack them to the ceiling and make a rlling ladder. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 330787 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43F9E61F.E2A91F54@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: antique home furnishings-bath kit-light fixture-outlets-Ebay-ends References: <1140437121.209941.266620@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 15:54:09 GMT the MAGNATE wrote: More off topic Ebay pimping SPAM Reported to his ISP at abuse@epix.net and to Google at groups-abuse@google.com with the full headers. I ask anyone who knows how to view the full headers to forward the message to both addresses to get rid of this moron. http://www.epix.net/aboutepix/policies.html is a link to their Terms Of Service. http://www.epix.net/aboutepix/contactepix.html has toll free phone number and email addresses for the ISP He is posting from 209.74.23.176 which appears to be a DSL service. I already have a reply from his ISP, and I don't care about his usual dirty tricks. I am a disabled veteran, and have no one he can harass but me. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 330788 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Rick" References: <1140211989.472562.279990@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <43F9DC6A.AF66BBB0@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 15:59:33 GMT "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message news:43F9DC6A.AF66BBB0@earthlink.net... > Rune wrote: > > > > I just _wish_ the ones near here had #47 bulbs and adapters in stock. The > > last 4 times I needed them I had to drive 2 counties over to get them. > > > > 7 RS's here and only one stocks the stuff. > > > > Since they condemned the parts to a cabinet they seldom have bulbs in stock > > anymore. Asking the manager just results in putdowns about how it doesn't > > pay to have the stuff or an offer to order it from another store. > > > > They used to have a whole wall of adapters and cables. Now they just have a > > little row in a corner. I needed a mini-stereo (walkman headphone) to two > > RCA cord and they had mono to two RCA, no stereo plugs if you wanted to > > change it, no 1/4" stereo to 2 RCA, etc. No way of getting there. I ended up > > getting one at Wal-Mart. > > > > Last cable I looked for there was a RCA video/audio cable. They wanted > > $25.00 for it. Had two sizes: Too Short and Too Long. Got it elsewhere for > > $7.00 > > > > Batteries are back to Wal-Mart selection. AA, AAA, C, D. 9V, a few coin > > types, and some cordless and cell phone types. Need anything else and it's a > > special order. > > > > Many more stories in that vein. > > > > The problem is that they can't decide what niche to focus on and don't stick > > with it. They were the computer place, then the home theater place, then the > > battery store, then cell phones. > > > > One nice thing they do have is their website. It tracks inventory at the > > stores. Look up a piece and it tells you what stores have it/don't have it. > > Saves a lot of hopping around/gas. Phone is useless with them. > > > > I'll watch for their announcements, hit the site, and make a list of what to > > save. > > > > Ray > > > I'd like to have a couple dozen of those big Radio Shack parts > cabinets they put the carded components in for my shop. It would be a > great way to store all those oddball parts. Stack them to the ceiling > and make a rlling ladder. Not sure if they use Stanley Vidmar cabinets. Best around, but a tad expensive for home use. Sometimes you'll see a few at machine shop liquidation auctions... Article: 330789 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43F9E7C0.1220AAF6@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? References: <28616-43F9C61D-2755@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net> Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:01:06 GMT "Ken G." wrote: > > GR 1310 B Oscillator . > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/ken123/8b779be4.jpg What is this > for . how can it be used ? I cannot read tiny manual print on my monitor > or download with webtv . > > Thanks . Gee I didn't know you couldn't use Web TV to access a decent search engine. Results 1 - 100 of about 15,300 for GR 1310 B oscillator. http://www.google.com/search?num=100&hl=en&rls=GGLD,GGLD:2004-04,GGLD:en&q=GR+1310+B+oscillator&spell=1 There are a number of links on the first page that tell you that its a 2 Hz to 2 MHz audio oscillator. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 330790 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43F9E870.D680D23B@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack References: <1140211989.472562.279990@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <43F9DC6A.AF66BBB0@earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:04:01 GMT Rick wrote: > > Not sure if they use Stanley Vidmar cabinets. Best around, but a tad expensive for home > use. Sometimes you'll see a few at machine shop liquidation auctions... I am hoping to find them sitting by their dumpster when they close the stores. :) -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 330791 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Lyndell Scott" References: <11vijfemobti10b@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Question Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:20:08 GMT Other possibilities could be corroded switch contacts or partially open coil that a voltage spike during switching causes a temporary bridging of the gap. These are just guesses, but I have experienced these conditions. I have also experienced the conditions mentioned by exray. -- Lyndell Scott Audio Antiques http://home.flash.net/~lfscott/ Article: 330792 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve" Subject: Sometimes e-bay is good for the ego! Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 08:31:03 -0800 Message-ID: <43f9eec9$0$58063$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net> I was just poking around on e-bay, looking at old radios. Found a radio up for auction thats selling for a ton of money. Bought one of these years ago. Not because it was worth a lot, just because I liked it. And it was cheap! This has happened a number of times. You can bet I showed the auction to my wife. It'll help make future purchases less of a problem. ;-) Yes, I realize that just because a single radio sells for a lot, that doesn't mean thats what others are worth, but in this case its selling for 500X the purchase price of the one I bought. And its got 6 days to go! I'm sure others here have had the same experience. Steve Article: 330793 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <43f9eec9$0$58063$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net> Subject: Re: Sometimes e-bay is good for the ego! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:50:47 GMT "Steve" wrote in message news:43f9eec9$0$58063$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net... > >I was just poking around on e-bay, looking at old > radios. Found a radio up for auction thats selling for > a ton of money. Bought one of these years ago. Not > because it was worth a lot, just because I liked it. And > it was cheap! > > This has happened a number of times. You can bet I > showed the auction to my wife. It'll help make future > purchases less of a problem. ;-) > > Yes, I realize that just because a single radio sells for > a lot, that doesn't mean thats what others are worth, but in this > case its selling for 500X the purchase price of the one > I bought. And its got 6 days to go! > > I'm sure others here have had the same experience. > > Steve > Is it that Crosley Catalin set? jim menning Article: 330794 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <2PjKf.3407$JR6.1939@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Needles Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 17:38:34 GMT To answer my own question -- The cartridges are a Stanton 500 AL II and a Stanton 520 SK. No matter, because at least in this case, the needle is the same for all the 500's. Garage-A-Records has the $65 version in stock, which is a Stanton needle -- the other apparently is made by someone else. It is now on order. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:2PjKf.3407$JR6.1939@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net... > For all you audiophiles and vinyl (and shellac) specialists: > > Since I've wanted to pick up a good needle anyway, and since I'll soon be > sifting through stacks of 78's from that truckload of stuff, I'm now on > the hunt for a good 78 rpm needle. > > I have two Stanton STR8-80 turntables, one equipped with a 500 and the > other with a 520 cartridge. For the nit -pickers, it's really not a 500, > but a 500 ES mkII V15 XP Series 7 type 4 X12, or some such nonsense. Same > with the 520. Before purchasing I'll have to go out and check the exact > numbers on the cartridges. > > In any case I've been told that Stanton has discontinued the 78 needles, > so I did a little Internet surfing to see what different outfits have to > offer -- and found hardly anything. So -- next stop was trusty > Garage-A-Records. For the Stanton 500 (I think the suffixes match mine) > they show three grades of 78 needles. The first is a "general purpose" > which is a 3 mil round, that goes for $35. The next is a 2.7 mil round > that's about $60. The third is an elliptical, that's rated "for all > electrical and most acoustical, Edison Diamond Disks, and 16" > transcriptions." This one lists for $140, but goes for the sale price of > $130. > > Now my question: what's the difference? These records were originally > designed for 3 mil needles if I'm not mistaken, so what's the advantage of > a 2.7? And then there's elliptical. I've always thought the advantage of > an elliptical is better high-frequency tracking; the groove of a > high-pitched tone might look like a caterpillar and an ellipse might track > it more precisely, but that same caterpillar on an LP would look more like > an Olympic slalom on a 78. > > I'm tempted to go with the $60 needle because it's the "deluxe" one while > the $35 version is the "cheap" one. But is there really a difference, or > are we splitting hairs? > > Of course, if someone has a better solution in the form of a > cartridge/needle for playing 78's, I'm not against picking up another > headshell and getting a cartridge. > > -- > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > Article: 330795 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: Converting Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 12:10:33 -0600 Message-ID: <22778-43F0CB99-951@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> References: <45abgkF5nvbrU3@individual.net> I was only entertaining the idea of putting my RCA tv set inside of the cabinet of my Zenith tv set's cabinet.I am going to let it continue to sit in my front bedroom just like it has been doing for many years.Once in a while at the Goodwill store,I see a nice looking wooden cabinet floor model tv set,sometimes a nice wooden cabinet floor model stereo AM/FM/Phonograph radio,sometines a wooden cabinet tv stereo AM/FM/Phonograph set.Sure,I could donate it or sell it to somebody,but chances are,I might see it over there at the Goodwill store.I have seen those people throw really nice things in that great big dumpster with the big hydraulic crusher thingy on it before and I have seen them let really nice things sit out there in the rain.If such a fate was to happen to my Zenith tv set,that would make me cry. cuhulin Article: 330796 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: Free Monday Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 13:41:33 -0700 Message-ID: I have a cabinet for a a Philco 39-70 that's in good shape...no chassis to go with it though. If anyone has a chassis for this one and needs a cabinet for it...it's yours for the simple cost of shipping. That shouldn't be much as it's a small tombstone style and hardly weighs anything since it's empty. Drop me ans email if you want it...first come..first served...naturally :) Ben Article: 330797 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve" References: <43f9eec9$0$58063$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net> Subject: Re: Sometimes e-bay is good for the ego! Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 12:10:08 -0800 Message-ID: <43fa2222$0$95975$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net> No, its the Silvertone with the gold 'sunburst' dial. These are pretty radios, and anything with an eye tube is worth having IMO. Steve "jim menning" wrote in message news:HrmKf.9885$CV.6829@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > "Steve" wrote in message > news:43f9eec9$0$58063$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net... >> >>I was just poking around on e-bay, looking at old >> radios. Found a radio up for auction thats selling for >> a ton of money. Bought one of these years ago. Not >> because it was worth a lot, just because I liked it. And >> it was cheap! >> >> This has happened a number of times. You can bet I >> showed the auction to my wife. It'll help make future >> purchases less of a problem. ;-) >> >> Yes, I realize that just because a single radio sells for >> a lot, that doesn't mean thats what others are worth, but in this >> case its selling for 500X the purchase price of the one >> I bought. And its got 6 days to go! >> >> I'm sure others here have had the same experience. >> >> Steve >> > > Is it that Crosley Catalin set? > > jim menning > Article: 330798 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Terry" References: <1140373069.034504.249140@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <11vi1vi5dq2r68@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Will someone out NH way please save this? Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:49:21 -0330 "Hagstar" wrote in message news:11vi1vi5dq2r68@corp.supernews.com... > > > Hagster, aren't you out that way? >> > > An hour ago I just drove back from there (Westford MA meet)!!! I WISH this > was on last week! I was looking for stuff near Boston ending recently for > awhile, but now it's THREE HOURS AWAY- Uncle Pete is actually closer. > > John H. Not familiar with it; on the theme that it "does not pull in stations" it may kikely be a 200 to 230 volt 50 hertz unit? Al though maybe not; perhaps the mains transformer has taps for 115? The poster mentions set being brought from Italy in the 1950s. The label shown does not mention the voltage? Mention this because occasionally I've met people back from a European trip having bought 'cute' lamps in Paris or London etc. which we then converted for them to North American voltage and Edison screw bulbs! Also the turntable if original and 50 hertz would be off frequency! Beautiful cabinet; strange attitude! Article: 330799 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: gc Subject: FAWG Swapmeet Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:14:35 -0500 Message-ID: Hi collectors ! Many of you are familiar with E.S.R.C., the tube supplier. They have recently moved to Orlando and have offered us their parking lot and some of their warehouse space for a swap meet AT NO CHARGE. So, for this meet, there will be no tabel charges or admission fees. We will, OF COURSE, hit you up for printing, postage and such expenses on a donation basis. We are hoping the weather will be cool and dry. Indoor space will be limited, so reserve right away. I am thinking many of you might like to be tailgating to avoid a lot of unloading and loading back up. We will get started at 8 am. ESRC will provide coffee, donuts, etc. Please get back to FAWG asap if you want to attend. Contact information is below for FAWG and ESRC. MAPQUEST has the ESRC address pinpointed if you want to check that. A map will be included in the postal notices. Hope to see you there. Make a note of your tube needs and see Stan of ESRC at the meet. Dennis, Radio Relics for FAWG (407)895-9075 oldradio@cfl.rr.com ESRC tube warehouse 6424 Pinecastle Blvd. Suite D Orlando, FL 32809 (407) 826-5808 esrc1@aol.com Details of these and other activities may be found in the FAWGHORN Newsletter. If you are not on the mailing list and wish to be, send your mailing address to: 1987 Corporate Square Suite # 151 Longwood, FL 32750 (407) 895-9075 Article: 330800 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Chris F." References: <1140427245.580990.103110@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction Message-ID: <1ksKf.32782$VV4.380179@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca> Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 23:32:13 GMT Actually, I was using the plaster (drywall compound, actually) to make the mold, not the knob itself. As for that site you mentioned, they have a lot of interesting stuff, but what exactly would I need for creating molds and casting replica knobs? Are there any specific products from that company that you could recommend? wrote in message news:1140427245.580990.103110@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Take a look at http://www.polytek.com/ , they have several types of > plastic casting resins and the pigments to color them with, also > polyurethane and silicone rubber for moldmaking. Plaster is not the > best material for reproducing a hard object such as a knob, since you > probably will have to break it to remove the finished knob and its > porous nature will require sealing to prevent the casting material from > sticking. If you want to experiment with materials that may be easier > to find locally, you could try polyester resin of the type sold for > patching fiberglass boats and color it with a small amount of artist's > oil paint, or epoxy glue and color it with whatever fine, dry powder > that matches the shade you are looking for. Once when I needed to patch > a hole a former owner had drilled in an AK Model 20 brown bakelite > detector-audio amplifier chassis, I used 5-minute epoxy mixed with > Hershey's Cocoa. A cheap substitute for liquid silicone molding rubber > is the clear silicone sealer, such as GE Silicone 1, that comes in > tubes to fit calking guns. I have used this for making small molds by > first coating the pattern or model with a release agent, such as > silicone spray lubricant, then thinning the silicone calking compound > with naphtha or paint thinner until it is about like a thick paint, and > then painting a first coat of this over the model. After it sets > overnight, additional layers of silicone can be added, allowing each > one to dry overnight, until you have a thickness of about 1/4"- 3/8". > The rubber can be backed up with plaster if neccessary to help it hold > its shape. Rubber molds made in this way have a tendency to shrink as > they age, so if the size of the knob is critical, this may not be the > way to go unless you are making a pattern from scratch and can make it > oversize to allow for shrinkage. > > Mike > Article: 330801 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Chris F." References: Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 23:34:35 GMT I also have to wonder if anyone has come up with a good method, for creating replicas of fancy wooden knobs. An idea came to me the other day; create some kind of rig that would act like a key-cutting machine, tracing the contour of the original knob and cut it into the target material (such as a piece of dowling spinning on a high-speed motor shaft) Anyone who has used a key-cutter knobs what I'm talking about. Might be a good project for a good rainy day (or week). "Chris F." wrote in message news:vO7Kf.32418$VV4.367422@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca... > I was wondering if anyone can point me towards some resources, for doing > my own plastic knob reproductions. I already have the fine plaster and have > begun making some moulds, but I'd like to know what you guys use for the > material to make the new knobs. I have about 1/2lb of high-temp wax from an > old AK radio, it melts under high heat and once cooled is hard as a rock > (feels like bakelite!). However it is black and I'd like to be able to > reproduce colored knobs (especially ones that were made from swirled > bakelite). I know there are some specialists out there who do this for a > living, so someone out there must have some advice they can give me. > Thanks for any advice. > > Article: 330802 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 16:42:36 -0700 Message-ID: <24721-43FA53EC-2717@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> References: <43F9E7C0.1220AAF6@earthlink.net> So far i have learned this item is usless . Article: 330803 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: John Bachman Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 19:23:05 -0500 Message-ID: <94nkv1h1nm0v7l735q02b05isusugrdspd@4ax.com> References: On Mon, 20 Feb 2006 23:34:35 GMT, "Chris F." wrote: > I also have to wonder if anyone has come up with a good method, for >creating replicas of fancy wooden knobs. An idea came to me the other day; >create some kind of rig that would act like a key-cutting machine, tracing >the contour of the original knob and cut it into the target material (such >as a piece of dowling spinning on a high-speed motor shaft) Anyone who has >used a key-cutter knobs what I'm talking about. There is a company in our area (used to be Sanders Prototype) that has a machine that does that. They make precision prototypes from digitized drawings. You can see them at http://www.solid-scape.com A knob should only cost a few grand or so ;-) John > Might be a good project for a good rainy day (or week). >"Chris F." wrote in message >news:vO7Kf.32418$VV4.367422@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca... >> I was wondering if anyone can point me towards some resources, for doing >> my own plastic knob reproductions. I already have the fine plaster and >have >> begun making some moulds, but I'd like to know what you guys use for the >> material to make the new knobs. I have about 1/2lb of high-temp wax from >an >> old AK radio, it melts under high heat and once cooled is hard as a rock >> (feels like bakelite!). However it is black and I'd like to be able to >> reproduce colored knobs (especially ones that were made from swirled >> bakelite). I know there are some specialists out there who do this for a >> living, so someone out there must have some advice they can give me. >> Thanks for any advice. >> >> > Article: 330804 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction References: Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 19:21:12 -0500 Try these guys http://www.lumicast.com/ Also, I have used the polyester resin from Castolite. It can be colored, drills and taps great, and has a slow cure time which helps get the bubbles out. Alumilite is too fast for me. They alco carry the mold material. Their toll free number is 1-888-227-8654. Ken Chris F. wrote: > I was wondering if anyone can point me towards some resources, for doing > my own plastic knob reproductions. I already have the fine plaster and have > begun making some moulds, but I'd like to know what you guys use for the > material to make the new knobs. I have about 1/2lb of high-temp wax from an > old AK radio, it melts under high heat and once cooled is hard as a rock > (feels like bakelite!). However it is black and I'd like to be able to > reproduce colored knobs (especially ones that were made from swirled > bakelite). I know there are some specialists out there who do this for a > living, so someone out there must have some advice they can give me. > Thanks for any advice. > > Article: 330805 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <43f9eec9$0$58063$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net> <43fa2222$0$95975$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net> Subject: Re: Sometimes e-bay is good for the ego! Message-ID: <2ctKf.9903$CV.600@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 00:31:58 GMT "Steve" wrote in message news:43fa2222$0$95975$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net... > > No, its the Silvertone with the gold 'sunburst' dial. > These are pretty radios, and anything with an eye tube > is worth having IMO. > > Steve > You got yours for a buck? Great deal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6607135249 jim menning Article: 330806 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43FA5FF0.C5D1864B@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? References: <43F9E7C0.1220AAF6@earthlink.net> <24721-43FA53EC-2717@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 00:33:57 GMT "Ken G." wrote: > > So far i have learned this item is usless . Then you have learned nothing. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 330807 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <2PjKf.3407$JR6.1939@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net> <1140478496.200044.294960@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Needles Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 00:47:45 GMT So -- . . . and I'm sure this is for the benefit of others who are reading this and are afraid to ask . . . What is the truncated stylus that was discontinued? Bottom line, where does a Stanton 500 with this 2.7 mil 78 needle sit in the food chain of 78rpm reproduction? I would suppose the absolute bottom of the food chain is the Victrola with steel needle whose owner doesn't realize it should be replaced after every play. A few steps above this would be the electric phonographs of the 40's, then those crystal cartridges of the 60's with the ever-present flipover needle. Sitting at the tippy-top of all this is some sort of lab stylus which costs upwards of $270,000 and requires a Bureau of Standards calibration of the tonearm to ensure the proper weight and balance. Now -- I can be safe in saying that the "basic" magnetic cartridge sounds a lot better than the Victrola, or any of the crystals. From this point upward, we deal mainly with specs of the cartridge itself (one does 30-17,000 Hz; a better one does 22-23,000), the physical size/shape of the needle, and whatever weight/tracking angle/skating factors apply. Now -- for the nose-in-the-air audiophiles, they can make a huge to-do over these specs; it really makes a difference when sitting in the center of their acoustical-design living room, listening to the realism of the cannon going off during the 1812 Overture. But how much difference do these upper-end specifications make when playing a 78? On one hand, I have to laugh when reading equalization charts that deal with response differences of various 78rpm records. More so when reading the specs of acoustical recordings. I mean, really -- it sounds like it was played through a tin horn. Adjust the equalization precisely and now it sounds like a tin horn that was painted blue! And then there's the signal-to-noise, which is typically around 1:1. Does that lab needle reduce this to 1:1.0000000037? Basically, if there's a way to better separate the music from the noise, and adjust the response in such a way as to make it more true, I'm all for it. If, with a combination of components, software, and other factors, the limitations of old recordings can be reversed, I consider it fantastic. However I question the stylus designs, with the corresponding price differences that range all over the spectrum, if with any of them a 78 still sounds like a 78. In other words I'll pay for better sound, but if it doesn't sound better, why pay? -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com wrote in message news:1140478496.200044.294960@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... > > Gary Tayman wrote: >> For all you audiophiles and vinyl (and shellac) specialists: >> >> Since I've wanted to pick up a good needle anyway, and since I'll soon be >> sifting through stacks of 78's from that truckload of stuff, I'm now on >> the >> hunt for a good 78 rpm needle. >> >> I have two Stanton STR8-80 turntables, one equipped with a 500 and the >> other >> with a 520 cartridge. For the nit -pickers, it's really not a 500, but a >> 500 ES mkII V15 XP Series 7 type 4 X12, or some such nonsense. Same with >> the 520. Before purchasing I'll have to go out and check the exact >> numbers >> on the cartridges. >> >> In any case I've been told that Stanton has discontinued the 78 needles, >> so >> I did a little Internet surfing to see what different outfits have to >> offer -- and found hardly anything. So -- next stop was trusty >> Garage-A-Records. For the Stanton 500 (I think the suffixes match mine) >> they show three grades of 78 needles. The first is a "general purpose" >> which is a 3 mil round, that goes for $35. The next is a 2.7 mil round >> that's about $60. The third is an elliptical, that's rated "for all >> electrical and most acoustical, Edison Diamond Disks, and 16" >> transcriptions." This one lists for $140, but goes for the sale price of >> $130. >> >> Now my question: what's the difference? These records were originally >> designed for 3 mil needles if I'm not mistaken, so what's the advantage >> of a >> 2.7? And then there's elliptical. I've always thought the advantage of >> an >> elliptical is better high-frequency tracking; the groove of a >> high-pitched >> tone might look like a caterpillar and an ellipse might track it more >> precisely, but that same caterpillar on an LP would look more like an >> Olympic slalom on a 78. >> >> I'm tempted to go with the $60 needle because it's the "deluxe" one while >> the $35 version is the "cheap" one. But is there really a difference, or >> are we splitting hairs? >> >> Of course, if someone has a better solution in the form of a >> cartridge/needle for playing 78's, I'm not against picking up another >> headshell and getting a cartridge. >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > Hi Gary, > > You're quite right, a '500 is a 500' (for your purposes). > > I just did a restock (I'm a Stanton dealer), 78 stylii are still > available, but only in one flavor: > D5127 for the 500 series (this is the 2.7 mil unit.) > > If you're recalling what I posted a while back (AFA 78 stylii NLA form > Stanton), I was lamenting the fact that they discontinued their > truncated stylii (three years ago?) and now only provide one '78 size' > per cartridge type (they also still have available a 600/680 series > unit, #D6827.) > > FYI the D5127 is supposed to retail for $67 (MAP $60) > > Cheers, > -Robert > QTS > http://www.Braught.com > Article: 330808 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Larry Dawson Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 19:26:05 -0600 Message-ID: <2006022019260516807-ldawson@macosxcom> Subject: Help identify Channel Master transistor radio I'd appreciate it if anyone could help me identify this radio. In the Spring of 1960 I was 8 years old and had saved every penny I came across in order to buy a transistor radio. The radio I bought was a Channel Master. It cost me $15.00. It was not much larger than a cigarette package. The leather case it came with was a light or Palomino color. It was good thick leather and nicely tooled. It covered all of the front of the radio except for the tuning indicator. There was strip of leather with a snap that secured the case to the radio and if I remember correctly it came over the left side and snapped on top at the right. It didn't cover the entire top (front side of radio) as the controls were there. There was a wrist strap and matching case for the earplug. The radio itself was all white with a circular (at least I think it was circular as opposed to rectangular) silver metal grill over the speaker. I'm thinking the on/off/volume control was a dial on top of the radio and not on the side. The tuning control was either on the top right or on the right side. I think part of the dial was visible as opposed to looking through a cut-out window. I don't think there was a screw that held the back/battery cover in place, but I could be mistaken. If I remember, the 9-volt battery compartment was at the bottom of the back with a cover that slid out. I used it for years, well into high school, and the last I knew it was still around when I moved out. My parents are both gone now. My wife and I bought the old homestead and moved in. I search everywhere for the radio, but to no avail. Mom wasn't a big saver. If something was used or not totally functional it got tossed. I'm afraid that's what happened to my radio. I've searched the Internet and eBay, but have yet to find one like it. I did get a Channel Master 6-transistor 6502 which is as close as I've been able to come to it. The 6502 I'm sure is slightly larger and not nearly as elegant as I remember mine being. The gentleman that sold it to me is a family friend. I've asked him, but 46 years ago is a bit beyond what he can recall. He gave me a few suggestions (which of course I can't recall now,) but they didn't pan out from what I could find on the Internet. Does anyone have any ideas? If my description is correct and anyone can identify it or even owns one, I'd love getting a picture of it to help me track one down. Thanks for your help. Larry =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Larry Dawson ldawson@macosx.com http://homepage.mac.com/capnlarry/ I don't know whether it's a virtue or a vice in me, but regularly rereading favorite books has always been one of the quasi- religious ceremonies with which I occupy my life. Fritz Leiber Article: 330809 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" Subject: Formula for matching pads? Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 20:36:14 -0500 Guys I'm looking for a formula, or preferably a program, that will let me design a matching pad that will let me set Z1, z2, and the dB loss. I have the formulas for the minimum loss pads, but they would require a second fixed attenuator to set the dB loss to the -20dB I desire. I'm looking to build some 50 ohm to various higher impedances for use on my signal generators to match the higher impedances found on boatanchors, etc. The -20dB loss is important so the uV reading on the generator attenuator is correct by a factor of ten for the actual voltage delivered to the receiver ant terminals. Pete Article: 330810 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Are you okay? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird) References: <_y7Kf.15216$z%5.13871@twister.nyroc.rr.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 02:12:07 GMT In article <_y7Kf.15216$z%5.13871@twister.nyroc.rr.com>, zenith@nycap.rr.com says... > > >Nothin a 12 pack of Mick and a >few Percs can't fix. So how's things? Bout the same here... except its the left arm and left leg .. don't like Mick.... so use Corona Extra... the Queens Finest ... John k9uwa /w4 snowbird Article: 330811 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: Are you okay? Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 22:22:18 -0400 Message-ID: <11vkuao1r2g9u4c@corp.supernews.com> References: <_y7Kf.15216$z%5.13871@twister.nyroc.rr.com> John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird wrote: > > Bout the same here... except its the left arm and left leg .. don't like > Mick.... so use Corona Extra... the Queens Finest ... > John k9uwa /w4 snowbird > The Queen of Mexico? -Bill Article: 330812 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Ron in Radio Heaven" References: <_y7Kf.15216$z%5.13871@twister.nyroc.rr.com> Subject: Re: Are you okay? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 02:24:55 GMT Lou deGonzague wrote in message news:_y7Kf.15216$z%5.13871@twister.nyroc.rr.com... > Well, a few weeks ago I slipped on the ice and blew my knee out. Guess I > will need surgery to fix it. Then there is that problem with the pinched > nerve in my neck, makes my right arm go numb. And that bad disc in my > lower back still drops me to my knees sometimes since that head on > collision on my motorcycle back in '71. Nothin a 12 pack of Mick and a > few Percs can't fix. So how's things? Well Lou you sound just about like me, I've had surgery on my neck twice about 7 years apart, it's been 5 years now and it's coming back. I blew a disk in my lower back carrying a 1949 Philco TV, cost me 5 weeks of work just over 20 years ago. Now I have RA and deg. disk in neck and back, both wrists, etc... Falling apart at 53. Ron Article: 330813 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Help identify Channel Master transistor radio Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 19:12:21 -0700 Message-ID: <24721-43FA7705-2739@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> References: <2006022019260516807-ldawson@macosxcom> Channel master made a few radios in the 1959 -60 year . Only 4 that i can think of that were pocket size and none with a round speaker grille or a knob on top . I cant remember an all white CM pocket radio it seems all of them had red or black on them . I would guess your first radio was a Channel Master that got tossed and another radio is what you remembered of some other brand . I have a 6503 early CM still new in its box if thats the one ? Its all red with a gold face . Article: 330814 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: FAWG Swapmeet From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird) References: Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 02:27:20 GMT In article , gregcason@yahoo.com says... > > > Hi collectors ! Many of you are familiar with E.S.R.C., the tube >supplier. They have recently moved to Orlando and have offered us >their parking lot and some of their warehouse space for a swap meet AT > >ESRC tube warehouse >6424 Pinecastle Blvd. >Suite D >Orlando, FL 32809 >(407) 826-5808 >esrc1@aol.com Excellent Radio Meet.... have found some nice pieces at this meet in past years... will be there Sat morning! John k9uwa /w4 Article: 330815 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird) References: Message-ID: <4OuKf.33600$Fw6.8915@tornado.tampabay.rr.com> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 02:20:48 GMT In article , radioconnectionNO@cox.netSPAM says... > > >www.alumilite.com > >Pete > > If you get in trouble making your part.. you can actually go to the company and they will show you how to do it... Yes Jean and her friend Linda spent a good 1/2 day there learning some tricks to making two part molds for bezels etc.... John k9uwa Article: 330816 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 19:26:42 -0700 Message-ID: <24721-43FA7A62-2740@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> References: <43FA5FF0.C5D1864B@earthlink.net> Then you have learned nothing. Yes actually i have . There is no interest in it or a quick explanation for it ... tells me better where it belongs :-) Article: 330817 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <11vku9b9s1q3c13@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Formula for matching pads? Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 21:35:04 -0500 "- exray -" wrote in message news:11vku9b9s1q3c13@corp.supernews.com... > Uncle Peter wrote: > > Guys > > > > I'm looking for a formula, or preferably a program, that will let me design > > a matching pad that will let me set Z1, z2, and the dB loss. I have the > > formulas for the minimum loss pads, but they would require a second > > fixed attenuator to set the dB loss to the -20dB I desire. I'm looking to > > build some 50 ohm to various higher impedances for use on my signal > > generators to match the higher impedances found on boatanchors, etc. > > The -20dB loss is important so the uV reading on the > > generator attenuator is correct by a factor of ten for the actual voltage > > delivered to the receiver ant terminals. > > > > Pete > > > > > Try this one Pete...it allows you to select in/out Z > > www.aa-mcs.com/outils/Attenuateur%20T%20&%20PI.xls But it don't let me set the impedances... Need different Zs in/out. Pete Article: 330818 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve" Subject: Admiral TV:need flyback cross reference Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 18:52:38 -0800 Message-ID: <43fa8078$0$58055$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net> Just picked up a 1950 Admiral 26X35 (chassis is 24D1). The flyback may be bad, and I need to know what it crosses to. Thanks! Steve Article: 330819 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 19:46:50 -0700 Message-ID: <24721-43FA7F1A-2746@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> References: <1140479675.825840.72320@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> What about ``Tandy Radio Shack `` About 5 years ago in a tiny town near here hung a TRS sign off of an old store front .. i thought HUH and went in . They had a bunch of new white plastic phones along with other stuff you would see at a Kmart ...but... At the back was an old leather goods section that the owner claimed was the original ``Tandy`` part . ? Article: 330820 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: CAPACITOR REFORMING PROCEDURE QUESTION. From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird) References: <1140485230.995455.65210@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 02:14:32 GMT In article <1140485230.995455.65210@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>, swingst1@juno.com says... > > > >Any info is greatly appecicated!! > >Thanks!! Barry F. > Even if the old caps ReForm this month.. good chance that next month they will blow anyway.... so question is ... with price of new ones under a buck each... why bother reforming them?.. If you want the new ones in the old cans.. not a big deal to open them up.. restuff them and reinstall.. John k9uwa /w4 snowbird Article: 330821 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <11vku9b9s1q3c13@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Formula for matching pads? Message-ID: Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 22:27:35 -0500 "DaveM" wrote in message news:pdKdnSoA_OEAGmfe4p2dnA@comcast.com... > " Uncle Peter" wrote in message > news:w%uKf.14616$2c4.453@dukeread11... > > > > > Try the program at http://www.btinternet.com/~g4fgq.regp/padmatch.exe > EXCELLENT!!! Peter Article: 330822 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43FA8B20.782DD13B@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? References: <43FA5FF0.C5D1864B@earthlink.net> <24721-43FA7A62-2740@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 03:38:14 GMT "Ken G." wrote: > > Then you have learned nothing. > > Yes actually i have . There is no interest in it or a quick explanation > for it ... tells me better where it belongs :-) Just because you don't know how to use it doesn't make it worthless. It is GR's version of the HP 200 audio generator. A very useful piece of equipment, if you know how to use it. The fact that it goes up to 2 MHz would make it useful to align AM BCB receivers. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 330823 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43FA8B87.9DDAFECF@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack References: <1140479675.825840.72320@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <24721-43FA7F1A-2746@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 03:39:58 GMT "Ken G." wrote: > > What about ``Tandy Radio Shack `` About 5 years ago in a tiny town near > here hung a TRS sign off of an old store front .. i thought HUH and went > in . > They had a bunch of new white plastic phones along with other stuff you > would see at a Kmart ...but... At the back was an old leather goods > section that the owner claimed was the original ``Tandy`` part . ? Yes, Tandy was a leather goods company. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 330824 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 00:13:19 -0400 Message-ID: <11vl4qtbmkvj737@corp.supernews.com> References: <43FA5FF0.C5D1864B@earthlink.net> <24721-43FA7A62-2740@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> Ken G. wrote: > Then you have learned nothing. > > Yes actually i have . There is no interest in it or a quick explanation > for it ... tells me better where it belongs :-) > A+ Article: 330825 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: Formula for matching pads? Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 00:17:49 -0400 Message-ID: <11vl53cl9l3sa74@corp.supernews.com> References: <11vku9b9s1q3c13@corp.supernews.com> Uncle Peter wrote: > "DaveM" wrote in message > news:pdKdnSoA_OEAGmfe4p2dnA@comcast.com... > >>" Uncle Peter" wrote in message >>news:w%uKf.14616$2c4.453@dukeread11... >> > > > >>Try the program at http://www.btinternet.com/~g4fgq.regp/padmatch.exe >> > > > > EXCELLENT!!! > > Peter > > Ok, you got it solved but the excel one DOES allow you to overtype an impedance value. The Frenchman labels it as resistance but calls it Z. That Excel page doesn't format correctly on the screen so I won't push it :) Article: 330826 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 00:23:08 -0400 Message-ID: <11vl5dbpc4q22ea@corp.supernews.com> References: <1140479675.825840.72320@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <24721-43FA7F1A-2746@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> <43FA8B87.9DDAFECF@earthlink.net> Michael A. Terrell wrote: > "Ken G." wrote: > >>What about ``Tandy Radio Shack `` About 5 years ago in a tiny town near >>here hung a TRS sign off of an old store front .. i thought HUH and went >>in . >>They had a bunch of new white plastic phones along with other stuff you >>would see at a Kmart ...but... At the back was an old leather goods >>section that the owner claimed was the original ``Tandy`` part . ? > > > > Yes, Tandy was a leather goods company. > > There's a 'new' Tandy Leather these days. Dunno if they are in some way related to the old Tandy. No matter how you slice it, "Radio Shack" hasn't been good for themselves or any of their alliances in the past 20 years. A classic case of doing everything wrong...mostly ignoring their customer base. Article: 330827 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: Are you okay? Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 22:25:48 -0600 Message-ID: <23081-43FA964C-523@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> References: There is a guy who lives in a house behind me and his dog will sometimes get out of his fence in his back yard.The Tuesday morning before Christmas day last year I was out in my front yard with my little blue heeler Australian Cattle Dog. www.cattledog.com I always snap on the dog leash when I take her out in the front yard.Here comes that guy's dog and my dog naturally wants to run around and romp around with that dog.The dog leash got wrapped around my feet and that caused me to fall over flat on my face and broke my eyeglasses. My face swelled up like one of those big Japanese lanterns.About two years ago,I was going up my ladder in my back yard to do some work on my old shed.A little tree was fumbling around with my eyeglasses and I was trying to move it away and I slipped off of the second step on my ladder and I fell down and fractured both of the big bones in my left wrist.Nothing that a couple of six packs every week wont fix up. cuhulin Article: 330828 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: CAPACITOR REFORMING PROCEDURE QUESTION. Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 00:39:30 -0400 Message-ID: <11vl6c143cg6ta5@corp.supernews.com> References: <1140485230.995455.65210@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1140494061.507590.174890@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1140495011.605652.197970@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> swingst1@juno.com wrote: > Thanks Guys!!...I was just curious as to how its done, and what the > effects are,and > I needed another reason to play with my Veriac. > > It wasn't to save money on caps. > > Barry F. > Reforming DOES work in a technical sense for old caps from the 40s and 50s...and even into the 60s and had some technical merit in that era. Unfortunately the decades have taken their toll on the old paper and foil in ways that are not corrected or overcome by reforming. Kinda like putting patches on a Model T tire. You can make it hold air for a while but the bigger issue is that the rubber has deteriorated. Anyway, ranting on reforming. Its taken for gospel that modern electrolytic caps don't suffer in storage due to modern materials/construction techniques. I've had two instances recently where I've used modern caps that have been in my storage bins for maybe as much as 6 or 7 years. Sticking with plain radios here, no rocket ship transmitters...in these two cases the radio hummed badly at first and eventually the hum disappeared. This has only happened twice out of many radios so I'm not ready to issue a Rule-Of-Thumb Memo and can't vouch for purchase dates and what brand of caps. It is, however, something I'll keep an eye on in the future as I use up my inventory of older caps. -Bill Article: 330829 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" Subject: Looking for Stromberg knobs, or photo Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 23:32:32 -0600 Message-ID: <43faa176$1_2@newspeer2.tds.net> Hi all Work continues on my S-C 245M. It came without knobs. Looking for a full set of six, or at least good closeup photos of them so I can check with the usual knob vendors. Unless anyone reading this can supply me, can any of you Stromberg owners take a pic for me? Thanks muchly paul Article: 330830 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Shawn K Subject: Re: Zenith Transoceanic questions - capacitors, etc. References: <1140396594.860596.34080@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1140461857.084329.161640@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 06:02:02 GMT Chuck Brockway wrote: > Great help! Thank you. > > It doesn't appear that the cans have been changed out. One can says > Aerovox, the other some name I don't recognize. Would the originals > have said Zenith? Both of the caps on my chassis have Zenith stamped into the black cardboard covers. -- Shawn K www.thisoldradio.com Article: 330831 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 22:51:06 -0700 Message-ID: <3532-43FAAA4A-818@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net> References: <43FA8B20.782DD13B@earthlink.net> Thats great ! i tought my friend how to use his signal generator and returned it to him . I hooked this GR thing to a radios antenna set to around 1600 and i heard several thumps or quiet spots while turning the dial on the tester No beeps . I assume this would only be good to set dial tracking . Be neet if this could be turned into a good transmitter without much trouble . Article: 330832 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Needles Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 23:07:01 -0700 Message-ID: <3531-43FAAE05-2996@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net> References: <2PjKf.3407$JR6.1939@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net> I am no expert on needles but have played around with what i have here . Magnetic cartridges sound better at least all the stuff i have had here . I recently found a German ELAC turntable with its original cartridge and a broken off needle . I got out the needles and the reading glasses and superglue and installed a 78 needle from a flip over needle onto the german cartridge . The turntable is hooked to good equipment .. i have never heard 78rpm records sound better . Lots of bass , lots of highs . I find these 78`s want a fair bit of pressure on the needle otherwise it sounds distorted Article: 330833 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: CAPACITOR REFORMING PROCEDURE QUESTION. Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 02:37:02 -0400 Message-ID: <11vld8eg8p65k6b@corp.supernews.com> References: <1140485230.995455.65210@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1140494061.507590.174890@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1140495011.605652.197970@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <11vl6c143cg6ta5@corp.supernews.com> <1140498878.946226.317630@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> swingst1@juno.com wrote: > Bill, > > I have this Zenith X-334 from 1959. A high quality pre-stereo AM/FM > table radio. > > It always worked perfectly without doing a thing to it, until three > years ago it started to hum and its big beautiful sound, and great > reception were gettting weak. So I shelved it. (I intend to re-cap it > soon) > > Just for the heck of it I took the radio off the shelf last weekend > and tried the reform method just to see what would happen. > > For the last few days I've had it on three hours a day, and so far its > working great again. I'm sure it won't last, but who knows? > > I tried it (reforming the caps that is) with another (even older > radio), also a Zenith (1946 boomerang style dial) and after hours and > hours of gradually increasing the power...the radio is as dead as dead > can be.I probably blew a pilot light at some point. > > Thats what prompted me to seek advice as to the cap reforming. > > I really appreciate all the feed back! > > Barry F. > Your results pretty much describe how it goes. OTOH, the 'dead' aspect of the 46 Zenith is probably due to something else. If its an AA5 set with a 35Z5 then popping dial lamps could well be an indication of bad caps, bad 35Z5 and a plethora of other stuff. Caps lacking reforming won't typically leave a radio totally dead. It should at least hum!! Ya hafta go to some other forums to find folks who will really prop reforming as a worthwhile effort. 'Round here on rar+p we tend to replace 50 year old paper caps. Just to throw a little salt into the wound...a typical tube rectifier won't start delivering DC voltage until you hit a certain point on the variac, normally well over 50%. Load it down with bad caps and it may be 80%. So, in-circuit reforming is iffy at best and fretting over 'ramping' doesn't really apply. -Bill. Article: 330834 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 02:39:10 -0400 Message-ID: <11vldccba7u2k04@corp.supernews.com> References: <43FA8B20.782DD13B@earthlink.net> <3532-43FAAA4A-818@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net> Ken G. wrote: > Thats great ! i tought my friend how to use his signal generator and > returned it to him . > I hooked this GR thing to a radios antenna set to around 1600 and i > heard several thumps or quiet spots while turning the dial on the tester > No beeps . I assume this would only be good to set dial tracking . > > Be neet if this could be turned into a good transmitter without much > trouble . > > > > This is why ebay exists. One man's trash....is another man's treasure. Article: 330835 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: CAPACITOR REFORMING PROCEDURE QUESTION. Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 02:46:28 -0400 Message-ID: <11vldq36s5gm8ff@corp.supernews.com> References: <1140485230.995455.65210@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1140494061.507590.174890@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1140495011.605652.197970@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <11vl6c143cg6ta5@corp.supernews.com> <1140498878.946226.317630@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Phil Nelson wrote: > Too many variables, and anybody who > tells you he has a predictable scientific method is full of hot air. I have a very predictable scientific method. They will crap out in a cloud of acrid smoke as soon as you sell the thing to someone who acutally uses the rig for a few hours rather than 15 minutes of bench testing and deciding "it works". Guaranteed. -Bill > Article: 330836 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Formula for matching pads? References: <11vku9b9s1q3c13@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: <5IyKf.13502$Ou1.2838@tornado.socal.rr.com> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 06:47:29 GMT - exray - wrote: > Try this one Pete...it allows you to select in/out Z > > www.aa-mcs.com/outils/Attenuateur%20T%20&%20PI.xls Oh yeah, thanks Exray... This works well with 600 and 900 ohm pads for re-referencing teleco lines. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 330837 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Formula for matching pads? References: <11vku9b9s1q3c13@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 06:51:19 GMT Uncle Peter wrote: > > But it don't let me set the impedances... Need different Zs in/out. > > Pete Yes it does. Go over the Z-in and Z-out values and click, then enter the new values. The results will change automatically when you tab or hit enter. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 330838 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Are you okay? References: <_y7Kf.15216$z%5.13871@twister.nyroc.rr.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 06:56:29 GMT John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird wrote: > Bout the same here... except its the left arm and left leg .. don't like > Mick.... so use Corona Extra... the Queens Finest ... Mexico has a queen? Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 330839 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Help identify Channel Master transistor radio Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 16:49:07 +0900 Message-ID: References: <2006022019260516807-ldawson@macosxcom> <24721-43FA7705-2739@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> <1140501219.390989.4270@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "michaeljpro" wrote in message news:1140501219.390989.4270@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > > Hmm, I'm not entirely certain that any Channel Master radios had > circular speaker grills? > Channel Master radios were made by Sanyo and I can't think of any Sanyo > radios with circular speaker grills either...there are several > transistor radio websites worth visiting, perhaps you can google > "Channel Master/Sanyo" and see what comes up. > Several Channel Master radios here.. start with the first one and keep clicking to see if you spot yours. http://www.transistor.org/collection/channelmaster/chmstr1.html Article: 330840 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction Message-ID: References: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 07:56:01 GMT Just out of curiosity, I wonder how a low melting-point metal, such as Wood's metal, would serve as a mold for doing that resin casting? Once the resin had hardened, you could melt the mold off it by dropping it in a cup of hot water. Gordon Richmond Article: 330841 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Rune" References: <1140211989.472562.279990@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <43F9DC6A.AF66BBB0@earthlink.net> <43F9E870.D680D23B@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack Message-ID: <1iAKf.1479$QL4.211@news-wrt-01.rdc-nyc.rr.com> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:36:13 GMT ROFL! You beat me to saying it! Ray "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message news:43F9E870.D680D23B@earthlink.net... > Rick wrote: >> >> Not sure if they use Stanley Vidmar cabinets. Best around, but a tad >> expensive for home >> use. Sometimes you'll see a few at machine shop liquidation auctions... > > > I am hoping to find them sitting by their dumpster when they close > the stores. :) > > > -- > Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to > prove it. > Member of DAV #85. > > Michael A. Terrell > Central Florida Article: 330842 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Rune" References: <1140211989.472562.279990@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <1140222384.294158.109460@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <_BJJf.1035$p13.746@trnddc08> <1140479675.825840.72320@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:38:08 GMT I tried getting them to honor it two years ago and spent a lot of time at it. They called Ft. Worth and everything. Said they no longer honor it. Got a source/contact for this? Ray "AB9GO" wrote in message news:1140479675.825840.72320@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > They will still honor the lifetime warranty on their tubes. Can't beat > that! > > Randy > Article: 330843 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Are you okay? Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 17:38:50 +0900 Message-ID: References: <_y7Kf.15216$z%5.13871@twister.nyroc.rr.com> "Stewart Schooley" wrote in message news:ZJydnceq2eHmDGfenZ2dnUVZ_tWdnZ2d@bright.net... > Ron in Radio Heaven wrote: >> Lou deGonzague wrote in message >> news:_y7Kf.15216$z%5.13871@twister.nyroc.rr.com... >> >>>Well, a few weeks ago I slipped on the ice and blew my knee out. Guess I >>>will need surgery to fix it. Then there is that problem with the pinched >>>nerve in my neck, makes my right arm go numb. And that bad disc in my >>>lower back still drops me to my knees sometimes since that head on >>>collision on my motorcycle back in '71. Nothin a 12 pack of Mick and a >>>few Percs can't fix. So how's things? >> >> >> Well Lou you sound just about like me, >> I've had surgery on my neck twice about 7 years >> apart, it's been 5 years now and it's coming back. >> I blew a disk in my lower back carrying a >> 1949 Philco TV, cost me 5 weeks of work >> just over 20 years ago. >> Now I have RA and deg. disk in neck and back, >> both wrists, etc... >> Falling apart at 53. >> >> Ron >> >> >> > > William, > > Thank you for asking. I must be better than I thought. I recently took a > computer quiz, "How long will you live?" Answered all the questions, > clicked the button and it popped up, "Congratulations, you will live to > the ripe old age of 71". > > I'll be 75 in June. Like I said, doin' much better than I thought. > > Stewart I took that new test at JAMA... 12 questions that tell you how likely you are to die in the next four years... one of the factors is how old you are... AP) SAN FRANCISCO If you're over 50, this test developed by researchers at the San Francisco Veterans Affairs Medical Center attempts to calculate your risk of death within four years. Of course, it's not foolproof, but the researchers say it can give you a rough idea of your survival chances. The test appears in Wednesday's Journal of the American Medical Association: 1. Age: 60-64 years old = 1 point; 65-69 = 2 points; 70-74 = 3 points; 75-79 = 4 points; 80-84 = 5 points; 85 and older = 7 points. 2. Male or Female: Male = 2 points. 3. Body-Mass Index: Less than 25 (normal weight or less) = 1 point. (Calculate by multiplying height in inches times height in inches; then divide weight in pounds by that total; then multiply the total by 703.) 4. Diabetes: 2 points. 5. Cancer (excluding minor skin cancers): 2 points. 6. Chronic lung disease that limits activities or requires oxygen use at home: 2 points. 7. Congestive heart failure: 2 points. 8. Cigarette smoking in the past week: 2 points. 9. Difficulty bathing/showering because of a health or memory problem: 2 points. 10. Difficulty managing money, paying bills, keeping track of expenses because of a health or memory problem: 2 points. 11. Difficulty walking several blocks because of a health problem: 2 points. 12. Difficulty pushing or pulling large objects like a living room chair because of a health problem: 1 point. Score: 0 to 5 points = less than a 4 percent risk of dying; 6-9 points = 15 percent risk; 10-13 points = 42 percent risk; 14 or more points = 64 percent risk. Note: Researchers say the 1-point penalty for having a body-mass index under 25 (normal weight or less) is based on findings that being underweight is a health risk for elderly people. Article: 330844 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: The dog ate my homework Message-ID: References: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 09:18:40 GMT The dog probably "worked" before, too. LOL Gordon Richmond Article: 330845 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Don't tell me someone actually paid this much for a repro Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 06:12:06 -0800 Message-ID: References: <1139892699.669512.237810@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Gary Tayman wrote: > Can't wait to see the look on that guy's face when he gets it. > > > Yeah, especially when he sees the slot for cassettes on the side :-) -Scott -- DO NOT REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE AT THE EMAIL ADDRESS ABOVE! Instead, go to the following web page to get my real email address: http://member.newsguy.com/~polezi/scottsaddy.htm (This has been done because I am sick of SPAMMERS making my email unusable) Vintage radio schematics, Binary newsgroup archives, TV Test pattern DVD and other great radio-related stuff is just one click away at: http://techpreservation.dyndns.org Article: 330846 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1139892699.669512.237810@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1139923118.459557.145900@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Don't tell me someone actually paid this much for a repro Message-ID: Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 15:40:58 GMT "TerryJ" wrote in message news:cY6dnWpno5I2dGzenZ2dnUVZ_t-dnZ2d@comcast.com... > > Would it be ethical or proper to send an email to the winner telling him what he > actually won? > EBay discourages that, and calls it "auction interference" even if the auction has already ended. But let's put it this way: If you were the bidder (victim), wouldn't you appreciate someone letting you know, and offering advice to try to get your money back on an auction listing that was clearly posted in the wrong category misleading the bidders to assume it was in fact a radio more than 65 years old? Wow, that was a long sentence. Anyway, I usually encourage people to help the victim out, even if it breaks the rules. It's unlikely that someone intentionally pulling a fraud is likely to complain. And if the seller truly made a "mistake" in assuming the radio was indeed old, they should be willing to accept that their mistake lead to erroneous bidding. Auctions like this give legitimate radio collectors and sellers a bad (and undeserved) reputation. Auctions like this are a bad reflection on our hobby. When I see an auction listed in a way that clearly misrepresents the item, I will often contact the seller and see if they either made a mistake, or were intentionally trying to deceive. If they don't willingly correct the listing, I usually try to file a fraud complaint with eBay but that can't be done after the end of the auction. jim menning Article: 330847 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <11vku9b9s1q3c13@corp.supernews.com> <11vl53cl9l3sa74@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Formula for matching pads? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 06:22:05 -0500 "- exray -" wrote in message news:11vl53cl9l3sa74@corp.supernews.com... > > > > Ok, you got it solved but the excel one DOES allow you to overtype an > impedance value. The Frenchman labels it as resistance but calls it Z. > That Excel page doesn't format correctly on the screen so I won't push it :) > I was expecting to see something like Z1 and Z2... Would be hard if they gave the formula! Thanks Pete Article: 330848 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? References: <43FA5FF0.C5D1864B@earthlink.net> <24721-43FA7A62-2740@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> <11vl4qtbmkvj737@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 12:26:22 GMT Ken, this oscillator puts out a pure sine wave, there is no way to modulate it. If you tune it to a frequency on your radio you will just hear a dead spot just like when a radio station looses it's audio feed but still has a carrier. This unit was made to test audio amps and related equipment like tape recorders using an oscilloscope in conjunction. This company made very high quality equipment, that unit probably cost a bundle when it was new. I think you will get a better response from people if you word your question differently like what is the application of this unit. - exray - wrote: > Ken G. wrote: > >> Then you have learned nothing. >> Yes actually i have . There is no interest in it or a quick explanation >> for it ... tells me better where it belongs :-) > > A+ Article: 330849 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction References: Message-ID: <5MDKf.101599$4l5.18296@dukeread05> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 07:33:03 -0500 Where is this woods metal available? Ken Gordon Richmond wrote: > Just out of curiosity, I wonder how a low melting-point metal, such as > Wood's metal, would serve as a mold for doing that resin casting? Once > the resin had hardened, you could melt the mold off it by dropping it > in a cup of hot water. > > Gordon Richmond Article: 330850 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: FAWG Swapmeet From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird) References: <78adnXwQTZ90AWfeRVn-rw@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 13:16:39 GMT In article <78adnXwQTZ90AWfeRVn-rw@comcast.com>, moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet says... > > >DATE of this event? > Feb 25th ... this coming Saturday... John k9uwa /w4 Florida Snowbird Article: 330851 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird) References: <1140479675.825840.72320@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <24721-43FA7F1A-2746@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <8wEKf.8344$_c.4220@tornado.tampabay.rr.com> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 13:24:20 GMT In article <24721-43FA7F1A-2746@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net>, goodguyy@webtv.net says... > > >What about ``Tandy Radio Shack `` About 5 years ago in a tiny town near >here hung a TRS sign off of an old store front .. i thought HUH and went >in . >They had a bunch of new white plastic phones along with other stuff you >would see at a Kmart ...but... At the back was an old leather goods >section that the owner claimed was the original ``Tandy`` part . ? > One of our local Rat Shack stores at home actually had two stores next to each other in a Mall ... one was the shack the other the tandy ... now its of course only one full of phones and junk John Article: 330852 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Reading Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:27:20 -0500 Message-ID: <11vm59u8t4t8k4b@corp.supernews.com> Do people actually READ the replies to posts on the Forum? Check out this thread- http://antiqueradios.com/forums/Forum17/HTML/000094.html Those little felt pads are wearing GROOVES in the governor wheel and this fellow keeps cleaning them over and over, making sure they're nice and scratchy. The intense friction is slowing the motor, but nothing I write gets through. It's bizarre but quite common when someone asks about something you know well and then simply ignores any contrary advice ("Oh course those are "Friction Pads" it says so in this book...") Oh well, stuff like this makes me wonder why I answer. John H. Article: 330853 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird) References: Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 13:14:04 GMT In article , richmond@telusplanet.net says... > > >Just out of curiosity, I wonder how a low melting-point metal, such as >Wood's metal, would serve as a mold for doing that resin casting? Once >the resin had hardened, you could melt the mold off it by dropping it >in a cup of hot water. > >Gordon Richmond Question here.... just exactly HOW are you going to get this newly made knob out of the mold without damaging the mold so that it can be used to make the next knob?... Rubber Molds solve the above problem quite nicely. John k9uwa /W4 Article: 330854 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Are you okay? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird) References: <_y7Kf.15216$z%5.13871@twister.nyroc.rr.com> <11vkuao1r2g9u4c@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: <5eEKf.8336$_c.2214@tornado.tampabay.rr.com> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 13:05:05 GMT In article <11vkuao1r2g9u4c@corp.supernews.com>, exray@coqui.net says... > > >The Queen of Mexico? > >-Bill Yup the Queen of Corona ... am sure you know the family history etc... Daughter took over the biz ... they call her the Queen... John Article: 330855 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird) References: <1140479675.825840.72320@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1140519617.172693.318550@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <%xEKf.8345$_c.72@tornado.tampabay.rr.com> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 13:26:19 GMT In article <1140519617.172693.318550@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, philip_barton.geo@yahoo.com says... > > > >'Tandy' was also the name that RS went by in the UK. Probably also the >inspiration behind their 'TRS-80' computer name too. > >Phil. > when the Shack had the Tech America stuff.... then they actually had nice parts for sale... mostly through the catalogs John k9uwa Article: 330856 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: The dog ate my homework Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:36:42 -0500 Message-ID: <11vm5rganj241e0@corp.supernews.com> References: WOW, must one BIG door that this thing could fit INSIDE it! Talk about "hollow core"! IT HAS NEVER BEEN ABUSED TO THE WEATHER ELEMENTS AND ALWAYS KEPT IN DOORS John H. Article: 330857 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: FAWG Swapmeet Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:39:05 -0500 Message-ID: <11vm5vv6k02lg45@corp.supernews.com> References: <78adnXwQTZ90AWfeRVn-rw@comcast.com> > John k9uwa /w4 Florida Snowbird > > It's been SO warm up here this year John, you'll have no need to fly down there in a few years! John H. Article: 330858 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: How do you glue veneer? Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:44:07 -0500 Message-ID: <11vm69feeji3840@corp.supernews.com> References: <1140394758.791652.224310@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <_rCdnQYojdX7oWTeRVn-iw@bresnan.com> <6yjKf.1631$%m4.1260@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com> "Lyndell Scott" wrote in message news:EDkKf.16450$tb3.8811@newssvr24.news.prodigy.net... > Searching the web for a veneer specific PVA mentioned by John, I came > across this site that also explains the process > http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/ironon.html . These veneer glues and thicker and set up harder for less creep after drying. Plus they are generally tinted to an appropriate tone- http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/glues.htm John H. Article: 330859 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: <11vm59u8t4t8k4b@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Reading Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:48:38 -0500 "Hagstar" wrote in message > Do people actually READ the replies to posts on the Forum? Check out this > thread- >... Oh well, stuff like this makes me wonder why I answer. > > John H. Yonny, the same can be said of this ng. I rarely answer and when I do, I can see 3 or 4 replies parotting my answer then the OP simply elegantly skip mine to follow the "echo"...go figure. Many times good advice is simply not followed until a thread is 20 replies long...It's not the Forum or the ng, it's human nature. They don'T know you, then your advice in no good. How many times have you read this: "please register if you want people to take your replies seriously"...? Note that I _rarely_ reply anymore, anywhere...Wonder why. Syl Article: 330860 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Watch your local Radio Shack Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 06:44:35 -0700 Message-ID: <2129-43FB1943-2882@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net> References: <%xEKf.8345$_c.72@tornado.tampabay.rr.com> Radio Shack still sells plugs , jacks , cords , batterys , phones , stereos , and a few learning project kits . I dont see anything wrong with that . Each time i go in there for a jack/cord/plug i usually find it without having to go into a huge ``MART`` . Article: 330861 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 06:51:02 -0700 Message-ID: <2130-43FB1AC6-944@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net> References: <11vldccba7u2k04@corp.supernews.com> Thanks everyone between here and the forum i have learned what i need to know and life is once again good . This is good advice . This is why ebay exists. One man's trash....is another man's treasure. Now to check if they sell well there :-) Article: 330862 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" Subject: Crosley 30-inch round CRT TV Message-ID: Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 17:03:10 GMT Doggone it. Too few of these exist, and this one has a cracked CRT. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6252874211 Anybody got a spare? jim menning (wanted: 3KP4 and 30BP4 CRT's) Article: 330863 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction Message-ID: References: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 14:27:03 GMT Well, I was basically wondering out loud, as it were. Thinking that a low melting point alloy like Wood's metal would allow one to quickly make a one-off mold. I can see what would probably constitute a fatal flaw for this scheme: getting the mold off the original would be next to impossible for anything but the tapered bullet-style knobs. I fully agree that a rubber mold would be the best choice for knobs. Low melting point alloys might work for some niche applications. I expect one could buy the stuff from Edmund Scientific. Gordon Richmond Article: 330864 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <11vm59u8t4t8k4b@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Reading Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:29:40 -0600 Message-ID: <43fb24be$0$27795$6d36acad@titian.nntpserver.com> "Syl" wrote in message news:QSEKf.7750$Jb7.847125@weber.videotron.net... > > "Hagstar" wrote in message *snip lamentations, I read them already.... ;-) * John, even if the guy in that post didn't comprehend what you're trying to say, other people read and remember without commenting in the thread. It could very well end up being printed out and filed in somebody's hints-and-kinks folder to help them. So figure you made somebody's day a little easier even if they don't say so. Don't take unintentional slights over the Internet personally or stomp off in a huff feeling like you're merely casting pearls before swine. Some of us appreciate reading everyone's intelligent comments (even though we don't necessarily see all of them.) So keep throwing them out there when you have something to offer. They do stick in people's minds. Cheers, paul *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com *** *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com *** Article: 330865 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" References: <1140396594.860596.34080@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Zenith Transoceanic questions - capacitors, etc. Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 14:29:58 GMT "Brenda Ann" wrote in message news:dtbgt7$18i$1@news2.kornet.net... > > "Gordon Richmond" wrote in message > news:n4eiv15mfpu5igasvi48bbnh3pm8kkl523@4ax.com... > The 200 is at 25 volts, I think, and serves as a filter for the >> filament string. > > Without looking at the schematic I can't be 100% certain, but I believe > it's actually the cathode bypass capacitor (suppose it would look like it > might be filament filtering) > > And............The Filament have it! Brenda, FYI - According to the R520/URR manual (army version with the complete component function descriptions) the low voltage section of 45D, of the 4 section can cap is for the filaments. R50 C45 I think is the same cap to the 8G005 being referenced. Schematic at http://www.transoceanic.nostalgiaair.org/520urr.htm. I have used this manual as a troubleshooting aid for other TOs. Very informative document! Large pdf but informative. Paul. :~) Article: 330866 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <2PjKf.3407$JR6.1939@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net> <1140478496.200044.294960@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1140529166.991490.40900@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Thank you! Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 14:57:51 GMT Just to let you know, I really appreciate the information you've given me -- it has been enlightening! I would certainly think that using a Stanton 500 cartridge with the 2.7 mil needle, I should have the best means of playing 78's, at least on my own block. If I were to pursue this further, to the point of serious reproduction a la Library of Congress, it's good to know what further tools are available and how they work. However for my personal use -- I collect 45's, have just inherited some 78's, no longer mess with ET's due to lack of space -- all I really want is a means of playing records in such a way as to sound somewhat professional. I already receive compliments when playing 45's at various events; let's see if I can draw the same response when playing a few 78's. I might add that I've got one more little tool in my arsenal. A long time ago I built a "dynamic filter" from a magazine article. This is an interesting device; it cuts off the highs to reduce surface noise, but if it "hears" a high note coming through, it opens up the response just enough to allow the note to be reproduced. This sort of thing may be a bit cheap & dirty in professional circles, but in my personal use I've been very pleased with it. For LP's or reel-to-reel tapes, with a low-but-definitely-present noise floor, it can pull that noise right out without affecting the music at all. For really noisy recordings, it can cut the treble just a smidgen, while making a whopping cut in noise. Of course it's easily adjustable, and you can "dial in" whatever sounds best. Basically if I can make a 78 sound better than a 78, I should have a pretty impressive system. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 330867 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: Reading Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 10:09:07 -0500 Message-ID: <11vmb8opbjm0ed2@corp.supernews.com> References: <11vm59u8t4t8k4b@corp.supernews.com> "Syl" wrote in message news:QSEKf.7750$Jb7.847125@weber.videotron.net... > > . They don'T know you, then your advice in no good. AH, I know that, that's why I post links (footnotes as it were) to back me up. Doug Houston mentioned the lubing the pads issue on the *very next page* of the Phono section too. I'm certainly still continuing to post my 2 cents though :) John H. Article: 330868 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Chris F." References: <94nkv1h1nm0v7l735q02b05isusugrdspd@4ax.com> Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 15:15:24 GMT > There is a company in our area (used to be Sanders Prototype) that has > a machine that does that. They make precision prototypes from > digitized drawings. You can see them at http://www.solid-scape.com > > A knob should only cost a few grand or so ;-) I gave this idea some more thought and I think I could actually build a knob-replicating machine, without too much trouble or expense. I have most of the design in my head now, the only thing I'm not sure of is what material to use for a cutting blade (it would have to require little or no sharpening). If it worked, I could reproduce knobs very cheaply and quickly, and could probably even go into business. Not sure how much of a demand there is for that sort of thing though. Article: 330869 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Chris F." References: Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 15:18:55 GMT The site mentions that silicone rubber molds are only good for about a year. Isn't there a material that will last longer? I'd like to be able to keep dozens, if not hundreds, of different molds on hand, and it would be quite a nuisance to keep redoing them every year. "Ken" wrote in message news:Z1tKf.101345$4l5.4954@dukeread05... > Try these guys http://www.lumicast.com/ > Also, I have used the polyester resin from Castolite. It can be colored, > drills and taps great, and has a slow cure time which helps get the > bubbles out. Alumilite is too fast for me. They alco carry the mold > material. Their toll free number is 1-888-227-8654. Ken > > Chris F. wrote: > > > I was wondering if anyone can point me towards some resources, for doing > > my own plastic knob reproductions. I already have the fine plaster and have > > begun making some moulds, but I'd like to know what you guys use for the > > material to make the new knobs. I have about 1/2lb of high-temp wax from an > > old AK radio, it melts under high heat and once cooled is hard as a rock > > (feels like bakelite!). However it is black and I'd like to be able to > > reproduce colored knobs (especially ones that were made from swirled > > bakelite). I know there are some specialists out there who do this for a > > living, so someone out there must have some advice they can give me. > > Thanks for any advice. > > > > > Article: 330870 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Rick" References: Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction Message-ID: <%xGKf.1285$F56.661@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 15:42:51 GMT "Chris F." wrote in message news:fmsKf.32785$VV4.380203@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca... > I also have to wonder if anyone has come up with a good method, for > creating replicas of fancy wooden knobs. An idea came to me the other day; > create some kind of rig that would act like a key-cutting machine, tracing > the contour of the original knob and cut it into the target material (such > as a piece of dowling spinning on a high-speed motor shaft) Anyone who has > used a key-cutter knobs what I'm talking about. Been around a long time-sometimes called a duplicating lathe Article: 330871 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 12:15:02 -0400 Message-ID: <11vmf44kr1d6r70@corp.supernews.com> References: <11vldccba7u2k04@corp.supernews.com> <2130-43FB1AC6-944@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net> Ken G. wrote: > This is why ebay exists. One man's trash....is another man's treasure. > > Now to check if they sell well there :-) > Probably not. Article: 330872 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Jeffrey Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction References: <%xGKf.1285$F56.661@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 10:18:02 -0700 I'm not sure how any of these devices would handle a knob that doesn't have a circular cross-section. A rosette knob, for instance, or a Philco acorn knob. And how about something like a Zenith "Z" knob. All of these would seem to require something with a very fine-pointed rotating cutter head - more like a dentist's drill than a lathe or a key cutter. But, not being a machinist, what do I know? Bill Jeffrey ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Rick wrote: > "Chris F." wrote in message > news:fmsKf.32785$VV4.380203@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca... > >> I also have to wonder if anyone has come up with a good method, for >>creating replicas of fancy wooden knobs. An idea came to me the other day; >>create some kind of rig that would act like a key-cutting machine, tracing >>the contour of the original knob and cut it into the target material (such >>as a piece of dowling spinning on a high-speed motor shaft) Anyone who has >>used a key-cutter knobs what I'm talking about. > > > > Been around a long time-sometimes called a duplicating lathe > > Article: 330873 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Rick" References: <%xGKf.1285$F56.661@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 17:33:32 GMT "Bill Jeffrey" wrote in message news:sWHKf.54$Uc2.51@fed1read04... > I'm not sure how any of these devices would handle a knob that doesn't > have a circular cross-section. A rosette knob, for instance, or a > Philco acorn knob. And how about something like a Zenith "Z" knob. All > of these would seem to require something with a very fine-pointed > rotating cutter head - more like a dentist's drill than a lathe or a key > cutter. > > But, not being a machinist, what do I know? > > Bill Jeffrey > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > Rick wrote: > > > "Chris F." wrote in message > > news:fmsKf.32785$VV4.380203@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca... > > > >> I also have to wonder if anyone has come up with a good method, for > >>creating replicas of fancy wooden knobs. An idea came to me the other day; > >>create some kind of rig that would act like a key-cutting machine, tracing > >>the contour of the original knob and cut it into the target material (such > >>as a piece of dowling spinning on a high-speed motor shaft) Anyone who has > >>used a key-cutter knobs what I'm talking about. > > > > > > > > Been around a long time-sometimes called a duplicating lathe Yes, the lathe would be for circular knobs. Odd ones could be duplicated with a setup like you describe... Article: 330874 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Conalrad CD radio alert cold war display. From: "Paul P" Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 18:58:19 GMT Message-ID: References: <4hu2v15c1lsno2d8kljcqmo6eaqmcujgjh@4ax.com> <43f1de94.14825457@news.demon.co.uk> > > I have to agree with this comment. In general you can't see the tubes > from the front of any 1950s radio, so the only way people could see > the glow would be by picking the radio up and fiddling with it, which > I don't imagine you want to encourage. Even when you can see the > tubes, the glow is quite dim. You could power the scale lamps from > quite a small transformer scavenged from a scrap ghettoblaster or > similar, whereas if you power all the tube heaters you'll need a > sizable transformer (maybe 3A). > > Good luck, Paul. > -- > Paul Sherwin Consulting http://paulsherwin.co.uk I tend to agree with the above comments. I will take a direction of "Cool" or simulated operation (i.e., fake tubes perhaps). Or maybe dead tubes with a orange lamp to illuminate the interior. I think art wants to show that tubes once existed in stead of little black squares of plastic. I'm thinking now about mounting LEDs under the tube in the socket so it projects a glow up into the tubes. I really did not feel comfortable with a temperature hot display. I feel an alternative coming on. Keep the ideas coming. And Thanks to all for the input. Paul KB3LZP Article: 330875 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction References: Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 17:57:56 GMT Chris F. wrote: > The site mentions that silicone rubber molds are only good for about a year. > Isn't there a material that will last longer? I'd like to be able to keep > dozens, if not hundreds, of different molds on hand, and it would be quite a > nuisance to keep redoing them every year. That's what the problem is in any small quantity production run. The original production runs on various knobs numbered in the thousands, or more. The molds used were injection die molds at quite a substantial cost. But then they were designed to last for the production of several thousand knobs. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 330876 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43FB5B5A.5DD6300C@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? References: <43FA5FF0.C5D1864B@earthlink.net> <24721-43FA7A62-2740@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> <11vl4qtbmkvj737@corp.supernews.com> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 18:26:47 GMT Lou deGonzague wrote: > > Ken, this oscillator puts out a pure sine wave, there is no way to > modulate it. If you tune it to a frequency on your radio you will just > hear a dead spot just like when a radio station looses it's audio feed > but still has a carrier. This unit was made to test audio amps and > related equipment like tape recorders using an oscilloscope in > conjunction. This company made very high quality equipment, that unit > probably cost a bundle when it was new. I think you will get a better > response from people if you word your question differently like what is > the application of this unit. > > - exray - wrote: > > Ken G. wrote: > > > >> Then you have learned nothing. > >> Yes actually i have . There is no interest in it or a quick explanation > >> for it ... tells me better where it belongs :-) > > > > A+ It can be modulated with an external circuit. A simple ring modulator made from four signal diodes and a couple coils will do it. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 330877 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: Converting Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 13:07:01 -0600 Message-ID: <6236-43F22A55-847@storefull-3255.bay.webtv.net> References: <3531-43F148AA-1303@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net> I use two tv sets at the same time.One for my webtv,the other for DirecTV for watching old,old movies on that other tv set.I have them sitting right next to each other on top of and old antique pump organ,(it has real Ivory keys and Ivory inserts on the push/pull knobs,I bought it for $45.00 at the Salvation Army thrift store many years ago) works great for me.My 22 inch Multisync crt computer monitor is sitting on my coffee table,my Velocity Micro ProMagix computer is sitting on an end table by my couch.I use a Gyration www.gyration.com mini keyboard (I prefer wireless mini keyboards so my little doggy wont get snagged in some wires) and Gyration mouse.Three big eyes stareing back at me. cuhulin Article: 330878 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? References: <43FA5FF0.C5D1864B@earthlink.net> <24721-43FA7A62-2740@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> <11vl4qtbmkvj737@corp.supernews.com> <43FB5B5A.5DD6300C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 18:30:43 GMT Michael A. Terrell wrote: > Lou deGonzague wrote: > >>Ken, this oscillator puts out a pure sine wave > > It can be modulated with an external circuit. A simple ring > modulator made from four signal diodes and a couple coils will do it. Or, if you have an urge to do thing creative on the bench... A simple un-tuned tube amplifier fed with the GR signal generator with a audio output transformer in the plate circuit used as a modulation transformer. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 330879 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: Converting Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 13:09:59 -0600 Message-ID: <6237-43F22B07-191@storefull-3255.bay.webtv.net> References: <3531-43F148AA-1303@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net> Older model tv sets had a light color trim around the picture screens.That was suppose to make the screens look larger than they actually were. cuhulin Article: 330880 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: GR 1310B what is it for ? References: <43FA5FF0.C5D1864B@earthlink.net> <24721-43FA7A62-2740@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> <11vl4qtbmkvj737@corp.supernews.com> <43FB5B5A.5DD6300C@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3UJKf.16826$Zl1.14289@twister.nyroc.rr.com> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 19:31:11 GMT I was just saying that as practical matter to Ken I know that you can modulate any oscillator if you so desire, but first you have to know what you are doing. Michael A. Terrell wrote: > Lou deGonzague wrote: >> Ken, this oscillator puts out a pure sine wave, there is no way to >> modulate it. If you tune it to a frequency on your radio you will just >> hear a dead spot just like when a radio station looses it's audio feed >> but still has a carrier. This unit was made to test audio amps and >> related equipment like tape recorders using an oscilloscope in >> conjunction. This company made very high quality equipment, that unit >> probably cost a bundle when it was new. I think you will get a better >> response from people if you word your question differently like what is >> the application of this unit. >> >> - exray - wrote: >>> Ken G. wrote: >>> >>>> Then you have learned nothing. >>>> Yes actually i have . There is no interest in it or a quick explanation >>>> for it ... tells me better where it belongs :-) >>> A+ > > > It can be modulated with an external circuit. A simple ring > modulator made from four signal diodes and a couple coils will do it. > > Article: 330881 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Rick" References: <%xGKf.1285$F56.661@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> Subject: Re: DIY Knobs Reproduction Message-ID: <04KKf.1365$F56.1045@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 19:43:56 GMT "Bill Jeffrey" wrote in message news:sWHKf.54$Uc2.51@fed1read04... > I'm not sure how any of these devices would handle a knob that doesn't > have a circular cross-section. A rosette knob, for instance, or a > Philco acorn knob. And how about something like a Zenith "Z" knob. All > of these would seem to require something with a very fine-pointed > rotating cutter head - more like a dentist's drill than a lathe or a key > cutter. > > But, not being a machinist, what do I know? > > Bill Jeffrey > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ If you have the time, skill, and resources (or a lot of money), almost any knob or small part can be duplicated by casting or machining... Article: 330882 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Are you okay? Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 05:12:25 +0900 Message-ID: References: <_y7Kf.15216$z%5.13871@twister.nyroc.rr.com> <11vkuao1r2g9u4c@corp.supernews.com> <5eEKf.8336$_c.2214@tornado.tampabay.rr.com> "John Goller, k9uwa /W4 Snowbird" wrote in message news:5eEKf.8336$_c.2214@tornado.tampabay.rr.com... > In article <11vkuao1r2g9u4c@corp.supernews.com>, exray@coqui.net says... >> >> >>The Queen of Mexico? >> >>-Bill > > Yup the Queen of Corona ... am sure you know the family history > etc... Daughter took over the biz ... they call her the Queen... > I remember her.. made famous in the Paul Simon song.. "Me and Julio Down By the School Yard" Article: 330883 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" Subject: Re: Are you okay? Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 15:45:12 -0500 Message-ID: <11vmuuqq6vkuide@news.supernews.com> References: <_y7Kf.15216$z%5.13871@twister.nyroc.rr.com> "Jeffrey D Angus"