Article: 332648 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Library of Congress adds 50 more famed recordings Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 06:00:55 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1144848657.029497.133730@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <44403648.120280843@news.plus.net> <44414e32.126398281@news.plus.net> <44425cf6.130172593@news.plus.net> <_si%f.539$t61.443@bignews6.bellsouth.net> <443dc30a$0$3701$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com> <1144906889.500231.66370@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com> In <1144906889.500231.66370@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com> "Steven_" writes: >I always thought Newton said an object in motion tends to continue in >that motion....unless influenced by another body. s/body/force/, but yes, you have the general idea. >By that I mean a loose wire if not subject to great tension would >continue to spin in that path on that plane, as I regularly observe >with Mylar. That's because it's still being propelled by the spinning reel motors. If the reels stop turning the wire or mylar won't keep unravelling on its own. And here's the relevant point: If the reels don't stop turning there won't be any extra kinetic energy due to the wire (or mylar) itself. You'll have the force imposed by the reel motor, but that's hardly sufficient to be any danger. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 332649 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Library of Congress adds 50 more famed recordings Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 06:02:30 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1144848657.029497.133730@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <44403648.120280843@news.plus.net> <44414e32.126398281@news.plus.net> <44425cf6.130172593@news.plus.net> <_si%f.539$t61.443@bignews6.bellsouth.net> <443dc30a$0$3701$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com> <1144906889.500231.66370@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com> <1144907102.756997.68660@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> In <1144907102.756997.68660@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "Steven_" writes: >How did we get mixed up in three groups? I didn't start the thread, but the included groups seemed relevant. There's nothing wrong with an appropriate cross-post. >Never mind, I just snipped the other two. For this particular post that's probably a good idea. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 332650 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 06:07:07 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <9der329maqtrrvvgc2p327qkd323fql05g@4ax.com> <15286-443DDACD-1276@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net> In <15286-443DDACD-1276@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net> goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) writes: >I have some bakelite radios i put wipe on tung oil over 20 years ago and >they still look real good . They dont shine like a 5000$ paint job but >they do look shiney . Ken, you've mentioned Tung oil several times in the past. Does this eventually dry? And I don't mean to pick nits on a microscopic level, I mean for all intents and purposes does it dry more than the other recommendation of mineral oil. And if so, how long does this take? Weeks? Months? -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 332651 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: New market for old bumblebee caps! Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 06:14:24 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <2Nmdndbvw4N5TaDZnZ2dnUVZ_tidnZ2d@giganews.com> In Blacksmith writes: >On Thu, 13 Apr 2006 04:34:54 +0000 (UTC), Tim Mullen >wrote: >> OT: Anybody remember why the first sealed-HDA drives were called >>"Winchester" drives? >They stored 30 megabytes and had a 30 millisecond access time, thus >the reference to the 30/30 Winchester rifle. >Blacksmith >wwwdotrenovatedradiosdotcom Heh. Hadn't heard that one. The two I remember are: 1) The model number was 30-06 (or possibly 30-30, sorry I don't know rifles) which was a common shotgun designation. 2) Winchester was the code name for the project because (hazy, here) that's where the research was done (England?). I really don't know for sure, myself. 30ms sounds awfully fast for the technology of the time, unless that was track-to-track. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 332652 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: New market for old bumblebee caps! Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 06:24:55 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <2Nmdndbvw4N5TaDZnZ2dnUVZ_tidnZ2d@giganews.com> In "Bob in Phx" writes: >sounds like a head per track disk drive... I used to run Burroughs >mainframes. We had two of them. Compressed air drive, with a three foot >platter. One head per track, 5 heads per set. It was a Burroughs "5n" >disk... real fast, for the time...... Paging disk. Used to achieve virtual memory by swapping out live core. Wicked fast access was needed for this trick. When ordinary drives got fast enough, main memory got big enough, and paging algorithms got good enough, special paging surfaces were no longer necessary. Nowadays you page to a stripe on your regular disk(s). IBM used drums, about the size of a wastebasket, covered with stationary r/w heads. The idea was that any given spot of media was never more than a few rotational degrees away from a head. These things were very cool looking: a square column with the drum assembly mounted on top with a clear glass cover. Paging surfaces were never used for storage per se. They didn't have a filesystem. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 332653 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Dealing with potted capacitors? References: Message-ID: Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 08:12:50 -0400 If they're paper filter caps they usually don't need to be replaced. Ken jakdedert wrote: > Space Case wrote: > >> Hi. >> >> I just bought a Grebe Socket Power 671 (AC power supply for the battery- >> powered Grebe MU-1 radio) off eBay. I opened it up to see about >> replacing >> possibly bad capacitors, and discovered that they're all in this big tar- >> filled block, 5.5x4x3". >> >> What is the best (or even a workable) way of dealing with these caps? >> >> Thanks, >> Steve >> >> > Google "Philco bathtub capacitor". Likely you'll get more detailed > explanations than from a ng...although if you do a groups search, you'll > find it's been discussed here many times. > > Basically, you heat the block--hot water, soldering iron, heat gun, hair > dryer, blowtorch, whatever--dig the contents out...replace with new. > Article: 332654 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Aladdin Radio Repair Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 06:01:35 -0700 Message-ID: <7873-443E4BAF-711@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> References: <123rouvnubg95e7@corp.supernews.com> Scott: Aladdin Radio is still listed in the phone book, at (415) 731-1920. Saw John and the Mrs. out in the old Chevy Suburban not too long ago. Bill(oc) Article: 332655 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bob Subject: FS: Hallicrafters SX-101A Message-ID: Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 14:07:34 GMT Fair condition. Works intermittently, neads cleanup. $150 or offer or trade. No shipping; I'm in Los Angeles. Bob Article: 332656 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: REMOVErghines1@THISturbousaSTUFF.com (Richard_G_ Hines) Subject: Re: WTB: IF transformers Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 14:40:55 GMT Message-ID: <443e627a.255131797@news.turbousa.com> References: <443bd375.87441306@news.turbousa.com> Found parts at oldradioparts.com Richard ------------------------ Article: 332657 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Fred Wesner Subject: Re: Fun with oscillator References: <1144794053.839442.223660@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1144811929.890679.212210@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 15:35:53 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > that's and OK sub if the opening of the chassis will accept it. However, > most sets that were designed for G type tubes will not take the GT or metal > without mangling the original sheild flange, and even then, the socket is > set 1/8" below the chassis and that is all it takes for some pins to hit and > not others... I know this from experience! > > Exactly Mark! I should have made that clear. If I had this set and the 6A8G was suspect (and I was out of Gs) I'd go for the metal tube if it fit... I'm impatient and want to see a radio play ASAP. I would not cut away any shield or chassis material to do this though. Fred Article: 332658 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 13:11:40 -0400 Message-ID: <123t1ihk2m1au82@corp.supernews.com> References: <9der329maqtrrvvgc2p327qkd323fql05g@4ax.com> <15286-443DDACD-1276@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net> <1144916615.031152.120060@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com wrote: > > Another problem is that linseed oil never really completely dries even > after months...Trying > to wipe out dust with a cloth (months later) starts to remove the > shine...start all over again... Thats probably the biggest difference between tung oil and linseed oil. Tung will dry to a wax in just a few days. Since it goes on as a liquid it tends to fill the surface pores and then turns to a solid wax which will take a shine. -Bill Article: 332659 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Lyndell Scott" References: Subject: Re: identify radio cabinet Message-ID: <%Wv%f.9867$%m4.6677@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com> Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 17:32:43 GMT May be a speaker cabinet rather than a radio cabinet. -- Lyndell Scott Audio Antiques http://home.flash.net/~lfscott/ Article: 332660 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... References: <9der329maqtrrvvgc2p327qkd323fql05g@4ax.com> <15286-443DDACD-1276@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net> <1144916615.031152.120060@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <123t1ihk2m1au82@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: <51y%f.820$4O2.223@bignews7.bellsouth.net> Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 14:59:42 -0500 - exray - wrote: > siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com wrote: >> >> Another problem is that linseed oil never really completely dries even >> after months...Trying >> to wipe out dust with a cloth (months later) starts to remove the >> shine...start all over again... > > Thats probably the biggest difference between tung oil and linseed oil. > Tung will dry to a wax in just a few days. Since it goes on as a > liquid it tends to fill the surface pores and then turns to a solid wax > which will take a shine. > > -Bill > I did one old radio (before I knew better) with Tung oil...in fact used a Formby's Refinisher kit, which contained the oil and a solvent type remover. It actually turned out rather well for the few hours involved, just not authentic. Picture in binaries. jak Article: 332661 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <443eb0df$0$1590$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net> From: sgordon@changethisparttohardbat.com Subject: Re: Library of Congress adds 50 more famed recordings References: <1144848657.029497.133730@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <44403648.120280843@news.plus.net> <44414e32.126398281@news.plus.net> <44425cf6.130172593@news.plus.net> <_si%f.539$t61.443@bignews6.bellsouth.net> Date: 13 Apr 2006 20:13:19 GMT In rec.audio.tech jakdedert wrote: : No offense, but...second opinion(s), anyone? About 15 years ago, I had two working wire recordings. They both worked great, made surprisingly good recordings, and as near as I could tell totally safe to use. Scott Article: 332662 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... References: <9der329maqtrrvvgc2p327qkd323fql05g@4ax.com> <15286-443DDACD-1276@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net> <1144916615.031152.120060@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <123t1ihk2m1au82@corp.supernews.com> <51y%f.820$4O2.223@bignews7.bellsouth.net> <1144959269.598542.25890@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 15:49:17 -0500 siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com wrote: > jakdedert wrote: >> - exray - wrote: >>> siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com wrote: >>>> Another problem is that linseed oil never really completely dries even >>>> after months...Trying >>>> to wipe out dust with a cloth (months later) starts to remove the >>>> shine...start all over again... >>> Thats probably the biggest difference between tung oil and linseed oil. >>> Tung will dry to a wax in just a few days. Since it goes on as a >>> liquid it tends to fill the surface pores and then turns to a solid wax >>> which will take a shine. >>> >>> -Bill >>> >> I did one old radio (before I knew better) with Tung oil...in fact used >> a Formby's Refinisher kit, which contained the oil and a solvent type >> remover. It actually turned out rather well for the few hours involved, >> just not authentic. >> >> Picture in binaries. >> >> jak > > Well, tung oil is supposed to dry better...But there is something else > called > Tung Oil Varnish...which is different than Tung Oil which contains > resins... > > I just searched for "Formby's Refinisher kit" and it sounds like it is > some sort > of varnish because it says it will gently dissolve old varnish, lacquer > etc... > IIRC, the can says pure tung oil. It's a two-step/two-product kit. The stuff which dissolves the finish is some kind of solvent, like acetone...drys almost immediately. THEN you apply the tung oil. I've got a kit somewhere that I bought for another non-radio project. I'll check. > So question remains...Tung Oil works or not? I don't have any around to > try > but I am planning to experiment asap...How about teak oil? Anybody > tried... It definitely works.... If I were to do it over again--and I will eventually--I'd go the historically appropriate route: sanding, filling, staining, several coats of hand-rubbed lacquer etc. I'm not pushing the technique for radio restoration; because it isn't, in the strictest sense, restoration. I've heard good things about teak oil. I intend to do some oil finishing on other wood projects, but will leave it off the old radios >from now on. > Picture in binaries? Did you mean you post some pictures? > > Yes, I did (one). Look in 'alt.binaries.pictures.radio' under 'tung oil finish'. jak Article: 332663 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Harley L. Miller" Subject: Re: identify radio cabinet Message-ID: Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 20:53:33 GMT OK, thanks for all the replys. I do have a decent AK55 chassis, been sitting around for about 15+ years waiting for a cabinet, it's wish may be fulfilled. Mark had a good thought; that it was a cutdown highboy, More close inspection may indicate this. Again, thanks for the good brainstorming on this. Harley Article: 332664 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 21:14:24 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <9der329maqtrrvvgc2p327qkd323fql05g@4ax.com> <15286-443DDACD-1276@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net> <1144916615.031152.120060@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <123t1ihk2m1au82@corp.supernews.com> In <123t1ihk2m1au82@corp.supernews.com> - exray - writes: > Tung will dry to a wax in just a few days. Since it goes on as a >liquid it tends to fill the surface pores and then turns to a solid wax >which will take a shine. Ah. I did not know that. Thanks, X! -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 332665 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 21:16:54 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <9der329maqtrrvvgc2p327qkd323fql05g@4ax.com> <15286-443DDACD-1276@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net> <1144916615.031152.120060@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <123t1ihk2m1au82@corp.supernews.com> <51y%f.820$4O2.223@bignews7.bellsouth.net> <1144959269.598542.25890@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> In jakdedert writes: >If I were to do it over again--and I will eventually--I'd go the >historically appropriate route: sanding, filling, staining, several >coats of hand-rubbed lacquer etc. I'm not pushing the technique for >radio restoration; because it isn't, in the strictest sense, restoration. I'd agree there. Speaking strictly for myself, I was more curious about Tung oil's use in bringing back a shine to bakelite, as Ken originally suggested. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 332666 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: Interesting RCA TV/Radio combo 1948? Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 19:11:40 -0400 Message-ID: <123tmlinvtclf4d@corp.supernews.com> References: Theresa McCarty wrote: > Yah, the 'relatively' small screen caught my attention. I ain't seen one > neither in 5 years snooping eBay. When I was a kid (late 50s) one of the neighbors still used a console radio looking affair with a little bitty screen. I have no idea if it was a kludge of some sort or what. I've never seen one anything like it. -Bill Article: 332667 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gerald K4NHN" Subject: How to make a diaphragm Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 01:18:18 GMT Any idea on how to cut and make a diaphragm for a horn speaker. Best material to use? Has anyone tried this? It would have to be perfectly flat. Gerald K4NHN Cayce, SC Article: 332668 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Carter-K8VT Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... References: <9der329maqtrrvvgc2p327qkd323fql05g@4ax.com> <15286-443DDACD-1276@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net> <1144916615.031152.120060@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <123t1ihk2m1au82@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 01:39:56 GMT > In <123t1ihk2m1au82@corp.supernews.com> - exray - writes: > >> Tung will dry to a wax in just a few days. Since it goes on as a >> liquid it tends to fill the surface pores and then turns to a solid wax >> which will take a shine. Well, don't want to start a flame war, but I will respectfully beg to differ with the above. First, my comments relate to wood, not shining Bakelite... In a previous post, another person stated that his linseed oil never dried. That is correct. There are no "metallic driers" in linseed oil like in most tung oil products. Next, another poster mentioned Formby's Refinisher. This is not a finish at all. It is basically a mixture of alcohol (solvent for shellac) and lacquer thinner (solvent for lacquer). This product is a "re-amalgamater". It dissolves and re-flows old lacquer or shellac finishes that have "alligatored" or crazed. (BTW, it won't do anything for varnish finishes). Finally, to address exray's comments above: First, tung oil, generally speaking, will not "fill the pores". This requires first using a general category of products known as "paste wood fillers" on open grained wood (not to be confused with stuff like so-called "Plastic Wood"). That is why actual tung oil finishes, like a "Danish" finish are generally soft and not high gloss, because the grain is *not* filled. Also, tung oil does not dry into "solid wax"; it dries into...are you ready?...dry tung oil. Tim Mullen wrote: > > Ah. I did not know that. Thanks, X! > Article: 332669 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Carter-K8VT Subject: Re: How to make a diaphragm References: <1144978512.970160.103190@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 01:46:52 GMT Steven_ wrote: > What about aluminum sheeting, such as they would use for the local > paper? No aluminum. Its got to be iron/steel/magnetic. Gerald, maybe you can salvage a diaphragm from an old pair of earphones. After all, that's all the old horn speakers were--just a glorified earphone. Carter K8VT Article: 332670 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: White Letter Decals Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 22:15:21 -0400 Message-ID: <123u1dvk6jijr50@corp.supernews.com> References: <-bednSDKNMMN9aHZnZ2dnUVZ_uWdnZ2d@gwi.net> <8pCdnSGBi__GYaPZnZ2dnUVZ_smdnZ2d@gwi.net> gkb wrote: > Thanks for all the info. My inkjet printer is getting worn out and its time > to find something else. I think I will invest ina ALPS printer so I can > print of those white decals. > Well be very careful in selecting one because they haven't been made in years and the used market is flooded with worn out ones and there's no factory support. At one time they were doing trade-ins but that was several years ago. The telltale effects are striping of solid colors. I dunno what this is all about but the ALPS users say its the kiss-of-death. That said, Kodak makes an equivalent dry ink printer these days but I think its in the >$1000 range. On neither it or the ALPS do you have a very wide range of color shades...some colors like Hallicrafters mint green are simply unobtainable with this printing process. There's a few folks out there with working ALPS/Kodak printers who will do custom work in the $20-30 sheet range if you supply the artwork. You can cram a couple of projects on a sheet :) I strongly considered buying my own a while back but quickly learned that the operating costs etc didn't make sense for me even when selling off some radio decals to defray the costs. -Bill Article: 332671 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 22:19:32 -0400 Message-ID: <123u1lptdgtkbc1@corp.supernews.com> References: <9der329maqtrrvvgc2p327qkd323fql05g@4ax.com> <15286-443DDACD-1276@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net> <1144916615.031152.120060@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <123t1ihk2m1au82@corp.supernews.com> Carter-K8VT wrote: > > > Well, don't want to start a flame war, but I will respectfully beg to > differ with the above. > > First, my comments relate to wood, not shining Bakelite... > > > Finally, to address exray's comments above: > > First, tung oil, generally speaking, will not "fill the pores". This > requires first using a general category of products known as "paste wood > fillers" on open grained wood (not to be confused with stuff like > so-called "Plastic Wood"). That is why actual tung oil finishes, like a > "Danish" finish are generally soft and not high gloss, because the grain > is *not* filled. > > Also, tung oil does not dry into "solid wax"; it dries into...are you > ready?...dry tung oil. I'll concede to all of the above. But we were talking about shining up Bakelite, not the proper way to restore a wooden cabinet. Tung oil WILL fill Bakelite. Give me a break, no way would I recommend it for a reproduction finish on an old radio. -Bill Article: 332672 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gerald K4NHN" References: <1144978512.970160.103190@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: How to make a diaphragm Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 02:25:21 GMT Hi Carter Wish I could use one, but I haven't seen one from a headphone as large as the ones that horns take. I need a 2-11/16" one. Gerald K4NHN Cayce, SC "Carter-K8VT" wrote in message news:gaD%f.65520$H71.54720@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com... > Steven_ wrote: >> What about aluminum sheeting, such as they would use for the local >> paper? > > No aluminum. Its got to be iron/steel/magnetic. > > Gerald, maybe you can salvage a diaphragm from an old pair of earphones. > After all, that's all the old horn speakers were--just a glorified > earphone. > > Carter K8VT Article: 332673 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gerald K4NHN" References: <1144978512.970160.103190@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: How to make a diaphragm Message-ID: <4TD%f.3815$Es3.542@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 02:34:40 GMT Steven Aluminum won't work. The old one was exposed to water and had several rusted holes in it and it doesn't have any temper, tension left. Gerald K4NHN Cayce, SC Article: 332674 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: Subject: Re: How to make a diaphragm Message-ID: Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 22:27:47 -0400 "Gerald K4NHN" wrote in message news:uLC%f.6606$i41.4286@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net... > Any idea on how to cut and make a diaphragm for a horn speaker. Best > material to use? Has anyone tried this? It would have to be perfectly > flat. > Gerald K4NHN > Cayce, SC Hot chocolat carboard/metal cans. The can itseld is made of cardboard with aluminum inside but the bottom is made of very thin steel. I used common scissors to cut to shape, that tells you how thin it is. Syl Article: 332675 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 21:22:35 -0600 Message-ID: <13191-443F157B-562@storefull-3236.bay.webtv.net> References: <123u1lptdgtkbc1@corp.supernews.com> I used Formbys wipe on tung oil on a very soft cloth and only put on a micro thin coat . I started in the grille and other corners & creases then wiped the rest in strait clean wipes the best i could then left it alone . any wipe marks went away . I cant remember how long it took to dry now that was many years ago but it did dry hard . Formbys also has or had wipe on poly that i put on a few things back before i knew about lacquer . It went on very easy and smooth and dryed it seems like over night I dont know how that would look or act on bakelite Article: 332676 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Aladdin Radio Repair Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 20:28:57 -0700 Message-ID: References: <123rouvnubg95e7@corp.supernews.com> Scott Kiddy wrote: > Hello: > > Does anyone know whether John Wentzel at Aladdin Radio Repair of San > Francisco is still in business? I have a Fisher 400 (1960's vintage) > that needs some work. > He was, as of last july...I'm sure I would have heard it from someone around here if he had decided to close up shop since then. -Scott -- DO NOT REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE AT THE EMAIL ADDRESS ABOVE! Instead, go to the following web page to get my real email address: http://member.newsguy.com/~polezi/scottsaddy.htm (This has been done because I am sick of SPAMMERS making my email unusable) Vintage radio schematics, Binary newsgroup archives, TV Test pattern DVD and other great radio-related stuff is just one click away at: http://techpreservation.dyndns.org Article: 332677 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "t.hoehler" References: <1144848657.029497.133730@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <44403648.120280843@news.plus.net> <44414e32.126398281@news.plus.net> <44425cf6.130172593@news.plus.net> <_si%f.539$t61.443@bignews6.bellsouth.net> <443eb0df$0$1590$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net> Subject: Re: Library of Congress adds 50 more famed recordings Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 03:45:53 GMT wrote in message news:443eb0df$0$1590$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net... > In rec.audio.tech jakdedert wrote: > : No offense, but...second opinion(s), anyone? > > About 15 years ago, I had two working wire recordings. > They both worked great, made surprisingly good recordings, > and as near as I could tell totally safe to use. > > Scott I think the confusion about the danger stems from the early German steel tape machines of the mid thirties. They ran at 60 ips and used a very thin steel tape that would cut the crap out of anyone who was near when a tape break occurred. It was probably like band saw blade steel, but much thinner. Stuff can be nasty. This was well before wire, and all recording wire I have ever seen was mild steel, very, very thin, ran at 7 ips or less and probably couldn't hurt you if you tried. Clearly not the same stuff as steel tape. Tom Article: 332678 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "t.hoehler" References: <1144594424.853100.183260@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6080-443928A9-29@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net> <1144606136.497149.149460@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1144618578.927438.58670@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Zenith 6D539, what's the 3rd wire on the line cord for? Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 04:01:46 GMT "Stephanie Weil" wrote in message news:slrne3p1k5.kkr.stephanie@home3.gordsven.com... > In article , Brenda Ann wrote: > >> Do they not to this day use a similar scheme for electric blankets? > > I've only seen one electric blanket in my life. The wiring is embedded in > the padding and the cord going to the controller is just a regular > extension-cord type flex. > > Then again, I'm very leery of heated quilts - hell, anything with a hot > electric wire embedded in cloth next to my body, so I tend to keep away > from the suckers. > > And this is why: > > http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml03/03152.html > > -- > Stephanie Weil > New York City, U.S.A. Hmmm, been using electric blankets for years and years, and they haven't aff ected meee a t a l l l. tOm Article: 332679 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: wormey@eskimo.com (Space Case) Subject: Re: Dealing with potted capacitors? Date: 14 Apr 2006 04:26:11 GMT Message-ID: References: In article , Ken wrote: >If they're paper filter caps they usually don't need to be replaced. Ken It's kinda hard to know what they are until they're unpotted... >jakdedert wrote: >> Google "Philco bathtub capacitor". Likely you'll get more detailed >> explanations than from a ng...although if you do a groups search, you'll >> find it's been discussed here many times. >> >> Basically, you heat the block--hot water, soldering iron, heat gun, hair >> dryer, blowtorch, whatever--dig the contents out...replace with new. Ah, cool. I have a variable-temp heat gun that should do the trick. Thanks. Steve Article: 332680 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" Subject: BPL in California Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 04:55:37 GMT For those living in California, call Sacramento. This garbage HAS to be stopped! Omer http://www.americasnetwork.com/americasnetwork/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=319672 Article: 332681 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: GE E-62 From: lherault@bu.edu Message-ID: <50G%f.13864$_T5.9341@trndny08> Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 05:00:49 GMT I still need a good front face picture of a GE E-62 table radio so that I can buy and place new decals on it. Anyone have one of these radios? Can you e-mail a picture? Thanks, Ron L Article: 332682 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: White Letter Decals Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 01:18:21 -0400 Message-ID: <123uc52sjt5cg5e@corp.supernews.com> References: <-bednSDKNMMN9aHZnZ2dnUVZ_uWdnZ2d@gwi.net> <8pCdnSGBi__GYaPZnZ2dnUVZ_smdnZ2d@gwi.net> <123u1dvk6jijr50@corp.supernews.com> gkb wrote: > I see new ALPS printers in the 200 to 300 dollar range. As for the mint > green Hallicrafters, my inkjet matches it perfectly. You cant tell the > difference. My SX-62 aluminum dial trim looks great with the new mint green > decals. > My inkjet does also. You can't get that color from a dry ink ALPS and you need the opacity that an inkjet can't deliver when using the mint green on dark panels like SX-42, etc. -ex Article: 332683 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: Raido, Ra-a-a-ido, Daylight Come and Me Wanna Go Home Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 01:20:24 -0400 Message-ID: <123uc8s10ul2kd1@corp.supernews.com> References: <123ofrmgejdsg5b@corp.supernews.com> graham wrote: > > Hey Gra, ya ever thought of starting a literacy class for ebay sellers? There's definitely a market out there. -ex Article: 332684 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: BPL in California Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 01:22:23 -0400 Message-ID: <123uccjnfq8qh2f@corp.supernews.com> References: Omer Suleimanagich wrote: > For those living in California, call Sacramento. This garbage HAS to be > stopped! > > Omer Let it take its course. These BPL schemes are dropping faster than they are being created. Article: 332685 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave McClellan" References: <007u32ptvcr125p1er9eo5uuv8aufg851c@4ax.com> Subject: Re: Ever hear of a Wizard radio? Message-ID: <%CL%f.794$Fb5.372@fe03.lga> Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 07:12:27 -0400 I have seen several of these early 30's TRF "Depression" sets with a 6-pin socket on the back. The purpose of the socket was to allow the radio to be modified to run on a 6-volt battery (the filaments). The pins of the socket were connected to various points along the series filament string. I suppose the B+ was to come from batteries or a vibrator supply. I suppose one would also have to change one tube (use a 42 rather than a 43). Not sure if this "feature" had any marketing advantage. Dave "Blacksmith" wrote in message news:007u32ptvcr125p1er9eo5uuv8aufg851c@4ax.com... > I have a Wizard radio and don't see a reference to it in any of my > books. Looks like from the 30's. Tubes are 6C6 (2), 1223, 43 (I > think). That's all, just 4 tubes. > > Also, it has what looks like a speaker socket on the back of the > chassis, but it has a speaker in the front of the chassis, so why, if > that's what it is, would it have a socket for an external speaker? > > Any information about this radio would be appreciated. > > Pictures on the binaries. > Blacksmith > wwwdotrenovatedradiosdotcom Article: 332686 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:00:30 +0900 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> "CAINE" wrote in message news:1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... >I recently picked up an original owner 500C Fisher receiver, complete > with owner's manual and schematic manual. This old guy bought it in > 1963. > > It has no sound output. > > It needs new output tubes- 2 of them test bad, one questionable. Only > one tests good. > > All the tubes light up- and all other tubes test good. Problem is > there is no output at all- no hum, no static, nothing. Also no sound > when a CD player was inputted. No sound from headphone jack either. Does this unit have a pair of connections on the back of the chassis where it would feed an external device such as a graphic equalizer or three head tape deck (ie pre-amp out and main amp in) that would need to be bridged if an external unit were not used? Can you post a pic of the back of the chassis on some website for me? > All pots, tube sockets, output posts and jacks have been sprayed with > CRC QD to clean them. > > The stereo beacon stays on at all times, when in stereo mode. Some of the old tube stereo decoders defaulted to the stereo indicator in the on state, and went out on a mono signal. One way to test if this is the case with this tuner is to use a portable FM radio tuned to about 97.3 and the Fisher tuned to 108.0 (listen for a dead carrier). The > front panel lights up correctly- and with an antenna hooked up, the > tuning meter swings to the right when a station is found with the > tuner- just no sound. > > I'm getting the notion this is one specific defective component > somewhere- and have heard of this problem before with Fisher amps- what > can it be ? > > thanks in advance. > Article: 332687 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: FA: nice '37 Black dial (8-S-154?) not mine From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1144895379.787326.304360@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <4pM%f.925226$xm3.667945@attbi_s21> Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 12:17:04 GMT In article <1144895379.787326.304360@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com>, eb062559@aol.com says... > > >dollar to a donut says it ends at WAY more than 47.00. any guesses? i >say 300-400 because of condition. failure to properly identify the set >may cost him even more. if it doesn't bring 250.00 drinks are on me. > The seller hasn't responded to my ... now two questions I ask him about his radio.... one would think in three days.. that if you have auctions running you should read your email and answer questions >from prospective bidders.. John k9uwa Article: 332688 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Larry Fowkes" References: <1144978512.970160.103190@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <4TD%f.3815$Es3.542@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net> Subject: Re: How to make a diaphragm Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 12:18:18 GMT How about steel shim stock? It is very uniform in thickness and you can get it in any thickness from .003 to about .187. Go to www.mcmaster.com and search for steel shim stock. You should find something close. Larry Fowkes "Gerald K4NHN" wrote in message news:4TD%f.3815$Es3.542@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net... > Steven > Aluminum won't work. > The old one was exposed to water and had several rusted holes in it and it > doesn't have any temper, tension left. > > Gerald K4NHN > Cayce, SC > > Article: 332689 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Paragon type Two References: <1144976728.289519.128110@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1144978032.225306.61570@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1144984560.278260.231050@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1144985713.632845.308090@t31g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145013783.630850.293840@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <7DM%f.884$fG3.652@dukeread09> Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 08:31:58 -0400 Give us the site url. Ken Dave wrote: > I have known about the site for a while (6 months or more) and it > quickly became one of my favourite sites. I especially love the pages > on the 1920s radios and speakers both the horn and cone type. > Article: 332690 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <123u1lptdgtkbc1@corp.supernews.com> <13191-443F157B-562@storefull-3236.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 12:35:23 GMT In article <13191-443F157B-562@storefull-3236.bay.webtv.net>, goodguyy@webtv.net says... > > All of the above methods sound like a lot of work... just grab up a piece of old bakelite and try this on it. Brown Shoe Polish and one of Phil Nelsons old babydiapers.. It fills the pores... it shines... it stays shined.. it can be dusted. Takes maybe three applications on a really dull bakelite to get it shined up... you will pitch out the formby's and the tung oil and all the auto waxes and any other stuff you have been using on them... John k9uwa Article: 332691 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: BPL in California References: <123uccjnfq8qh2f@corp.supernews.com> <1145000013.288682.42860@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 08:41:06 -0400 I remember when I worked at GE they made carrier current equipment for sending transmissions across power lines. Is this still in use, and did it have the same problems as BPL? Ken Steven_ wrote: > Sounds like the utilities don't care for the offered scheme and the > scheme could be moot anyway. After ENRON I don't think they want to > dceal with any big expenditures directly...an outside entity you can > jettison when the sitiuation is unfavorable and who takes the > responsibility away would be very welcome. I just don't think those > companies will step up. > Article: 332692 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: I found a Zenith 12-S-471 From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 13:00:01 GMT In article , newton5@remove.comcast.net says... > > > I'm not opposed to a dab of silicone. If the button is the same, or even close, >would Jean be willing to make another one. To complete the radio I'd be HI Tom ... well the first one she made the mold from one of Alan Jespersons plastic repros that I had here.. this morning I handed her the correct complete part from a 12s568 Zenith. Slight difference. It has just a big Z on it rather than the word Zenith ... she said she was out of the Smooth-On rubber so has to order another gallon of the stuff... thats the rubber used to make the molds from. When it arrives she will make a new one.. said she thought perhaps she can mold screw into the plastic also... will see how it goes.. John k9uwa Article: 332693 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: WTB" Zenith 6B107 From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <15286-443DA9DD-1242@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 13:13:04 GMT In article <15286-443DA9DD-1242@storefull-3237.bay.webtv.net>, goodguyy@webtv.net says... > > >You know i really like Zenith but that cabinet hits my eyes as very ugly > It must be huge to house that console chassis . > it isn't as large as you might think... cabinet is 16.5" wide No internal speaker in it as your supposed to have the metal one on top with it.. John Article: 332694 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jon" Subject: RadioShack Tube Receiver Question Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 13:15:16 GMT I got this email from a friend. Is anyone familiar with this radio? Jon Scaptura > Hi Jon, > I rescued a RadShak STA-30 stereo receiver from being picked up by the > garbage people. I am going to give it to one of the kids at the group > home I work at part time. It's a tuber and so old that the sticker on the > back says Radio Shack Corporation, Boston 17, MASS. Hmmm. It works > fairly well & has little or no hum. I sprayed the pots & cleaned em up. > My concern is the speaker hook up. There are two strips on the rear > vertically, each bearing 4, 8, 16 (ohms). The Left channel has a O under > the 4 ohm selection w/a screw, I assume (?) that is the left channel > negative speaker connection. However the right channel is to the left of > that strip w/no 0 under the 4 ohm selection. There is a wire coming out > of the receiver which you connect to a selected impedance on the right > channel. To the left of that (I wish I had a digital camera!) it says > speaker w/a 2 screw array with no + or - indication and above it is a > switch that says 'speaker phasing CH-R'. Do you have any idea of what or > how one would hook up speakers in correct phase to this unit? The boy I'm > giving it to has demonstrated interest in this kind of stuff and is a real > 'pack rat' so it should keep him busy for a while. I cannot find this > unit anywhere on the Internet. Any help or suggestions would be > appreciated. Article: 332695 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: BPL in California Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 09:30:26 -0400 It will never be finanically viable in a rural market, which oddly is just where it is most needed. Pete Article: 332696 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <007u32ptvcr125p1er9eo5uuv8aufg851c@4ax.com> <%CL%f.794$Fb5.372@fe03.lga> Subject: Re: Ever hear of a Wizard radio? Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 09:31:23 -0400 Western Auto or Montgomery Ward come to mind.. I think it was one of those two who marketed Wizard. Pete Article: 332697 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve Stone" Subject: RCA Institute in New York City Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 13:31:56 GMT Can anyone verify this. In the 70's I took some community college electronics courses taught by former professors of RCA / TCI Institute. One professor commented on how they gave the students real life TV repair experience by taking them out to local establishments with large console televisions in need of repair. One of the more favorite places was a brothel with an ancient RCA model where the picture was indirectly viewed using a mirror. There was no discussion on how the service techs were paid for the service. Steve N2UBP Article: 332698 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <007u32ptvcr125p1er9eo5uuv8aufg851c@4ax.com> Subject: Re: Ever hear of a Wizard radio? Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 09:33:36 -0400 Champion Radio Labs is what I come with... Pete Article: 332699 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: BPL in California Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 10:08:23 -0400 Message-ID: <123vb6u9div7be1@corp.supernews.com> References: <123uccjnfq8qh2f@corp.supernews.com> <1145000013.288682.42860@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com> Ken wrote: > I remember when I worked at GE they made carrier current equipment for > sending transmissions across power lines. Is this still in use, and did > it have the same problems as BPL? Ken > ISTR that was done at very low frequencies under 100 kc? BPL is broad without any specific carrier frequency, covers most of the SW speactrum. -Bill Article: 332700 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 07:34:43 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> On 14 Apr 2006 04:35:41 -0700, "CAINE" wrote: >I recently picked up an original owner 500C Fisher receiver Oh no...pearls before swine. >I'm getting the notion this is one specific defective component >somewhere- and have heard of this problem before with Fisher amps- what >can it be ? First is the incompetent operator, Charlie Nudo. Such a fine piece of radio and audio engineering shouldn't be wasted on a hamfisted dullard like this. Obviously, he'll crowbar it until it squawks some noise and put it in his eBay shitpile. Second, wait'll he prices out 7591As and 7868s! HEY NOODLES...I HAVE A MATCHED QUAD OF OUTPUT TUBES FOR THAT RECEIVER...$450. FOR YOU....$650. Doesn't matter...he'll connect this thing to the wrong load and torch the output transformer, knowing him. Article: 332701 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1144976728.289519.128110@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1144978032.225306.61570@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1144984560.278260.231050@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1144985713.632845.308090@t31g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145013783.630850.293840@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> <7DM%f.884$fG3.652@dukeread09> Subject: Re: Paragon type Two Message-ID: <0sO%f.42587$ty4.11958@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 14:36:44 GMT "Ken" wrote in message news:7DM%f.884$fG3.652@dukeread09... > > Give us the site url. Ken > > http://www.radiolaguy.com Article: 332702 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 07:39:53 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 08:13:08 -0400, "DaveM" wrote: >Well, it could be any number of problems... ...the foremost being that Charlie Nudo, aka 66fourdoor, is an idiot... >From there, check voltages around the preamp tube(s). Follow the signal path >through the preamp stage(s) and when you find a spot where signal should be, but >isn't, stop there and fix. You MUST be joking. This moron doesn't even know what an oscilloscope is, let alone how to use it or a voltmeter. Solution: Spray floor with water. Bypass power supply fuse. Turn on Fisher. Have Nudo step in puddle of water. Then, have Nudo find the plate B+ and have him connect one hand to that, while making sure other hand is on a solid earth ground. Trouble cleared. Article: 332703 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: RadioShack Tube Receiver Question Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 07:54:49 -0700 Message-ID: References: On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 13:15:16 GMT, "Jon" wrote: >> Hi Jon, >> I rescued a RadShak STA-30 stereo receiver from being picked up by the >> garbage people. Not a good unit, as I remember them, but incredibly rare these days. Most went to the dump in the '70s. >> I am going to give it to one of the kids at the group >> home I work at part time. It's a tuber and so old that the sticker on the >> back says Radio Shack Corporation, Boston 17, MASS. Back before the Texans screwed it up! >> Hmmm. It works >> fairly well & has little or no hum. I sprayed the pots & cleaned em up. >> My concern is the speaker hook up. There are two strips on the rear >> vertically, each bearing 4, 8, 16 (ohms). The Left channel has a O under >> the 4 ohm selection w/a screw, I assume (?) that is the left channel >> negative speaker connection. However the right channel is to the left of >> that strip w/no 0 under the 4 ohm selection. There is a wire coming out >> of the receiver which you connect to a selected impedance on the right >> channel. To the left of that (I wish I had a digital camera!) it says >> speaker w/a 2 screw array with no + or - indication and above it is a >> switch that says 'speaker phasing CH-R'. Do you have any idea of what or >> how one would hook up speakers in correct phase to this unit? Yup. Connect Ch A (left) to the terminals at the proper impedance. Connect the wire from the chassis to the correct impedance for the right channel (should be the same, of course) and THEN connect the Ch B speaker pair from the right speaker to the unpolarized terminals. Tune in some FM white noise, and see if there's a "hole in the middle" between the two speakers, or if it's centered. Use switch to flip polarity until the noise is centered. Done! I seem to remember Japanese made RS tuners/receivers couldn't hold an alignment very well at all, even back before RS was "Texanized." I'm not positive on this particular product, but if it's Japanese in origin, it was probably made to RS specs by Standard of Japan, who did a lot of OEM work for American resellers in the '60s and '70s. They were responsible for a great number of the crappy "all in ones" that flooded K-Mart and others in the '70s under the name "Soundesign" and other trash brand names. Before that, however, RS did sell some OEM stuff made by H.H. Scott (who woulda thunk!?,) and those would be worth keeping. The postal zone on the label tells me this unit was marketed before 1962, and that was before greedy US corporate interests destroyed our electronics industry through off-shoring. A picture would certainly narrow it down. Article: 332704 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: RCA Institute in New York City Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 08:02:16 -0700 Message-ID: References: On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 13:31:56 GMT, "Steve Stone" wrote: >Can anyone verify this. > >In the 70's I took some community college electronics courses taught by >former professors of RCA / TCI Institute. >One professor commented on how they gave the students real life TV repair >experience by taking them out to local establishments >with large console televisions in need of repair. One of the more favorite >places was a brothel with an ancient RCA model where the >picture was indirectly viewed using a mirror. There was no discussion on how >the service techs were paid for the service. The ol' flip top RCA...you must be older than I am! In high school, our electronics teacher had us doing TV repair on an ocean of vertical chassis round tube RCAs, since those were by far the most popular set back in those days. We'd also get some Philcos and Admirals, but never a Zenith...they were too well made! I can still remember how to converge an RCA, a skill I haven't used since I finally got rid of my Heath GR-53 color set I built circa 1963. Degaussing and convergence was a routine affair on those, sort of like part of the housework. I got 25 years out of that set, and last I heard, it was still working, although with a rebuilt CRT. For the record, my HS electronics lab never got to go to any cathouses. Article: 332705 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" Subject: I just hate it when... Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 15:12:09 GMT you track eBay auctions waiting to snipe at the end, and then the seller pulls the auctions, probably afraid they won't get as much money as they really want. I wish they'd just follow the rules and use a reserve or a higher opening price rather than teasing all their interested potential bidders. I've been watching one seller (bill320sl), he's been doing way too much of this lately. Trophy baseball radio: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6620842285 Silvertone like Terry S. has: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6620869532 jim menning Article: 332706 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: I just hate it when... Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 08:22:34 -0700 Message-ID: References: On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 15:12:09 GMT, "jim menning" wrote: >you track eBay auctions waiting to snipe at the end, and then the seller pulls the >auctions, probably afraid they won't get as much money as they really want. I wish >they'd just follow the rules and use a reserve or a higher opening price rather than >teasing all their interested potential bidders. Turn them in to eBay Trust & Security. With all the focus on fraud on eBay, and eBay's blind eye to it, they're starting to take action against fraudsters and rule breakers like this. > >I've been watching one seller (bill320sl), he's been doing way too much of this >lately. He also may be making "out of eBay" sales, and may be soliciting higher prices outside eBay to avoid fees, a common fraud. EBay can track this now with their internal email system. They also finally realized that "google groups" is NOT Usenet, and can see when eBayers spam Usenet, even when they try to delete their posts. Just ask Charlie Nudo, aka 66fourdoor, the reviled spammer in here that now is probably wrecking a Fisher 500C through ignorance. Article: 332707 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: Subject: Re: I just hate it when... Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 11:53:24 -0400 Sellers have more rights than potential buyers. You can get into trouble for cancelling your bids, but sellers seem to have the freedom to cancel auctions without penalty. Pete Article: 332708 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: Subject: Re: I just hate it when... Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 15:57:00 GMT "DeserTBoB" wrote in message news:jafv32tgtft06ov6nmmaa22kqtvn3qm1fl@4ax.com... > > > > > Turn them in to eBay Trust & Security. > I have already reported this. http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/listing-reserve.html jim menning Article: 332709 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: Subject: Re: I just hate it when... Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 16:35:58 GMT " Uncle Peter" wrote in message news:WzP%f.10671$IZ2.1150@dukeread07... > > Sellers have more rights than potential buyers. > > You can get into trouble for cancelling your bids, but > sellers seem to have the freedom to cancel > auctions without penalty. > > Pete > > They can supposedly get in trouble, but I haven't seen it happen yet. First you have to notice something suspicious, and then watch for other occurrences. There is at least one big-time eBay radio seller with the word "catalin" as part of his UserID that cancelled almost as many auctions as he let go to the finish for a while. Several times I have reported him, but I've never seen even a temporary suspension. I guess eBay likes collecting their fees so much, they don't want to deal with him. I do like how eBay lists bid retractions on the feedback pages. It at least gives a warning to those who take the time to look for it. Maybe they should also do that with cancelled auctions from sellers. Speaking of too many bid retractions, one of the semi-regular posters in this group >from the Chicago area had 24 bid retractions in a 6 month period when I reported him for violating eBay policies. He only had 20 more feedback points than auction retractions at that time. He apparently was checking out other bidder's proxies and seller's reserves. When he checked out my proxy (I was current high bidder) for the third time in three different Zenith console auctions in late November, I reported him. I thought it funny when one day I received three outbid notices from eBay on three different Zeniths, only to find when I went to the auctions, I was still the high bidder. Then when I looked at the bid history of the three auctions, there was the same bidder, retracting in all three auctions just seconds after placing his bids. It's not fair when either sellers or bidders abuse the system. He obviously didn't "enter the wrong bid amount", as he never rebid in these auctions. He was simply trying to screw those of us that played by the rules. I have no sympathy for those that can't play by the rules, RAR+P member or not. His current feedback shows only 9 in the most recent 6 months, so reporting him obviously curtailed his behavior: http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=zenithradio3 Here's another Chicago area bidder on Zenith radios with a feedback of only 1, but 11 bid retractions. And they've only been an eBay member for a month and a half: http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=hugsandkisses30 Here's another bidder with 51 retractions in the last 6 months (this one has also been reported for using shill bidders repeatedly): http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=dmplrainbow I'm hoping this is one of the areas eBay is focusing on cleaning up in the near future. jim menning Article: 332710 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: RCA Institute in New York City Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:00:32 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: In "Steve Stone" writes: >In the 70's I took some community college electronics courses taught by >former professors of RCA / TCI Institute. >One professor commented on how they gave the students real life TV repair >experience by taking them out to local establishments >with large console televisions in need of repair. One of the more favorite >places was a brothel with an ancient RCA model where the >picture was indirectly viewed using a mirror. There was no discussion on how >the service techs were paid for the service. I would've taken the TRK-12. They're rarer. :) -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 332711 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 10:05:52 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145029529.733213.168930@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> On 14 Apr 2006 08:45:29 -0700, "Peter Wieck" wrote: >Even a complete jackass deserves a legitimate answer to a legitimate >question. True enough. I just hate to see such a fine piece of craftsmanship in the hands of a total moron. dB Article: 332712 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: I just hate it when... Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 10:07:30 -0700 Message-ID: <2llv32lbkid7jmp2jf2n4b7955tmlg5gdk@4ax.com> References: On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 11:53:24 -0400, " Uncle Peter" wrote: >Sellers have more rights than potential buyers. > >You can get into trouble for cancelling your bids, but >sellers seem to have the freedom to cancel >auctions without penalty. Not only that, but when they get "power seller" status, it takes the threat of legal action to get eBay to enforce their own Terms of Service against frauding and scamming sellers. That's why I call it "fraudBay" now. dB Article: 332713 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1145034037.387005.143370@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: I just hate it when... Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:10:44 GMT "Terry S" wrote in message news:1145034037.387005.143370@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com... > > Also interesting, that particular Silvertone was the "curtain burner" > model. First one I've seen, model 6114. Modified by Bob Eslinger to not > need the resistor line cord. I wonder if he used a cap or ? > > Jim -- will I see you at Radio Daze this year? > > Terry. > Yes, I'll be there. jim menning Article: 332714 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: I just hate it when... Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 10:13:29 -0700 Message-ID: <6nlv329c5vu9l86qb1lo9r3mn2cls5904b@4ax.com> References: On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 16:35:58 GMT, "jim menning" wrote: >They can supposedly get in trouble, but I haven't seen it happen yet. First you have >to notice something suspicious, and then watch for other occurrences. There is at >least one big-time eBay radio seller with the word "catalin" as part of his UserID >that cancelled almost as many auctions as he let go to the finish for a while. >Several times I have reported him, but I've never seen even a temporary suspension. >I guess eBay likes collecting their fees so much, they don't want to deal with him. Nail squarely smited. FraudBay's under the gun now, however, with the Tiffany & Co suit in Federal court, essentially revolving around the continued sale of Tiffany "knock-offs" from China on fraudBay. FraudBay told Tiffany's that THEY have to be the ones to turn in each and every piece of knock-off jewelry being posted, even though it was all from a few Asian "power sellers." Not only that, but once pressed to suspend the fraudsters, they'd just pop up under a new name, and in violation of their own ToS, fraudBay would just let them scam away. You'll note that fraudBay has gotten this way since going public; prior to that, their ToS was fairly rigidly enforced. > >I do like how eBay lists bid retractions on the feedback pages. It at least gives a >warning to those who take the time to look for it. Maybe they should also do that >with cancelled auctions from sellers. However, they now offer the "Sqaure Trade" mediation scam to protect sellers from deserved negative feedback. The "Square Trade" seller offers mediation, and if the buyer doesn't respond within 10 day, fraudBay just yanks the negative, as if it never happened. >Speaking of too many bid retractions, one of the semi-regular posters in this group >from the Chicago area had 24 bid retractions in a 6 month period when I reported him >for violating eBay policies. He only had 20 more feedback points than auction >retractions at that time. He apparently was checking out other bidder's proxies and >seller's reserves. When he checked out my proxy (I was current high bidder) for the >third time in three different Zenith console auctions in late November, I reported >him. I thought it funny when one day I received three outbid notices from eBay on >three different Zeniths, only to find when I went to the auctions, I was still the >high bidder. Then when I looked at the bid history of the three auctions, there was >the same bidder, retracting in all three auctions just seconds after placing his >bids. It's not fair when either sellers or bidders abuse the system. He obviously >didn't "enter the wrong bid amount", as he never rebid in these auctions. He was >simply trying to screw those of us that played by the rules. I have no sympathy for >those that can't play by the rules, RAR+P member or not. His current feedback shows >only 9 in the most recent 6 months, so reporting him obviously curtailed his >behavior: THe fraudster with the Fisher 500C in here recently got his ass kicked, too, which is why the spam from him stopped. However, he's been "test spamming" again, as if no one's watching. A crew is reporting each and every "spamgram" from him, so we'll see how long it takes them this time. Article: 332715 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: I just hate it when... Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 10:14:32 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145033382.508930.9220@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> On 14 Apr 2006 09:49:42 -0700, "Terry S" wrote: >I watched both of those too, Jim. He buys and sells those Silvertones >for a hobby. Buys a nice one, sells one with a flaw. > >Perhaps a note to ebay might get this auction cancelling stopped? Fat chance! See previous posts...fraudBay has no interest in enforcing their ToS unless someone holds their feet to the fire...and even then, it's just usually a "temporary" suspension. dB Article: 332716 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Raido, Ra-a-a-ido, Daylight Come and Me Wanna Go Home Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:43:12 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <123ofrmgejdsg5b@corp.supernews.com> <123uc8s10ul2kd1@corp.supernews.com> In "graham" writes: > People just need to proof read .... Ain't that the truth. When I go back and read what I've just typed I'm sometimes astonished at the mistakes I've made. Not just from being a poor typist, but from thinking a word and failing to put it in the sentence. The key is to go back and proofread, as graham says. Takes a minute at the most and keeps you from looking dumber than a bag of dirt. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 332717 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1145034848.697256.254660@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: I just hate it when... Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:44:58 GMT "RadioGary" wrote in message news:1145034848.697256.254660@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > > Hmm, maybe the reason one of those people from Chicago retracted his > bids was due to bidders changing the descriptions of items like the > reason said. > Now that you've been outed, you have to lie to try to make yourself look innocent? Your excuse doesn't fit Gary. You had the seller change the description in more than 20 auctions? And just within a minute of when you placed your bid? You were breaking the rules, period. Your behavior affected my bidding. You got caught, and reported. That is only fair. > > Despite your whining, I'm doing a pretty good business so far. Thanks > for the promotion by the way, and no one has curtailed my behavior. I > still enjoy this group and ebay despite the fact that hmm, let's see. > Someone in Southern Indiana ripped me off for a bad set with a faulty > transformer. At least I don't mention or post his good name. Have a > nice day Jim. > "Good name"? That would imply you are worthy of some respect. Your behavior shows otherwise. I don't mind posting the truth Gary. Like I said, RAR+P member or not, if you don't play by the rules, you shouldn't be allowed to play in the game. You've just showed a lot of your character by coming back here with obvious lies, but more despicable is that you just posted calling me names in another newsgroup unrelated to this one. Very mature, Gary. Grow up, play by the rules, and try to lead a respectable life. jim menning Article: 332718 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: I just hate it when... References: Message-ID: <8YR%f.467$Kn4.433@bignews2.bellsouth.net> Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 13:39:50 -0500 jim menning wrote: > " Uncle Peter" wrote in message > news:WzP%f.10671$IZ2.1150@dukeread07... >> Sellers have more rights than potential buyers. >> >> You can get into trouble for cancelling your bids, but >> sellers seem to have the freedom to cancel >> auctions without penalty. >> >> Pete >> >> > > They can supposedly get in trouble, but I haven't seen it happen yet. First you have > to notice something suspicious, and then watch for other occurrences. There is at > least one big-time eBay radio seller with the word "catalin" as part of his UserID > that cancelled almost as many auctions as he let go to the finish for a while. > Several times I have reported him, but I've never seen even a temporary suspension. > I guess eBay likes collecting their fees so much, they don't want to deal with him. > > I do like how eBay lists bid retractions on the feedback pages. It at least gives a > warning to those who take the time to look for it. Maybe they should also do that > with cancelled auctions from sellers. > > Speaking of too many bid retractions, one of the semi-regular posters in this group > from the Chicago area had 24 bid retractions in a 6 month period when I reported him > for violating eBay policies. He only had 20 more feedback points than auction > retractions at that time. He apparently was checking out other bidder's proxies and > seller's reserves. When he checked out my proxy (I was current high bidder) for the > third time in three different Zenith console auctions in late November, I reported > him. I thought it funny when one day I received three outbid notices from eBay on > three different Zeniths, only to find when I went to the auctions, I was still the > high bidder. Then when I looked at the bid history of the three auctions, there was > the same bidder, retracting in all three auctions just seconds after placing his > bids. It's not fair when either sellers or bidders abuse the system. He obviously > didn't "enter the wrong bid amount", as he never rebid in these auctions. He was > simply trying to screw those of us that played by the rules. I have no sympathy for > those that can't play by the rules, RAR+P member or not. His current feedback shows > only 9 in the most recent 6 months, so reporting him obviously curtailed his > behavior: > > http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=zenithradio3 > > Here's another Chicago area bidder on Zenith radios with a feedback of only 1, but 11 > bid retractions. And they've only been an eBay member for a month and a half: > > http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=hugsandkisses30 > Look at what he bought for $50, though: That's a nice looking console...local pickup only...in Massachusets! > Here's another bidder with 51 retractions in the last 6 months (this one has also > been reported for using shill bidders repeatedly): > > http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=dmplrainbow He needs to use shill bidders. Only about one in five of his auctions end in a sale. I wonder why people do this. > > I'm hoping this is one of the areas eBay is focusing on cleaning up in the near > future. > Google 'Buy Essex' for a case where ebay finally got a clue.... jak > jim menning > > > Article: 332719 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 12:33:51 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> On 14 Apr 2006 10:15:47 -0700, "CAINE" wrote: >I stopped there for now- have a strong notion the problem is in the >large power supply caps- as they feed both the preamp and amp circuits. > Further checks must be made using the schematic and with unit powered >up. Duh.... Ever think of checking...oh, never mind...never wisen up a chump! Article: 332720 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: I just hate it when... Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 12:42:44 -0700 Message-ID: <5iuv32hfr2lbbbgdj6tpogroi10dfsa59p@4ax.com> References: <1145034848.697256.254660@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:44:58 GMT, "jim menning" wrote: > >"RadioGary" wrote in message >news:1145034848.697256.254660@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... >> >> Hmm, maybe the reason one of those people from Chicago retracted his >> bids was due to bidders changing the descriptions of items like the >> reason said. >> > >Now that you've been outed, you have to lie to try to make yourself look innocent? Of course...all fraudsters on eBay act the same way...laws and rules don't apply to THEM, they're "free Americans" (free to defraud and steal) and they know fraudBay's security is useless to bidders, and acts as a shield to dishonest, crooked sellers. >Your excuse doesn't fit Gary. You had the seller change the description in more than >20 auctions? And just within a minute of when you placed your bid? You were breaking >the rules, period. Your behavior affected my bidding. You got caught, and reported. >That is only fair. Keep burying eBay in fraud reports, and get others to pile on. They'll act now, thanks to the Tiffany flap and all the attendent bad press. >You've just showed a lot of your character by coming back here with obvious lies, but >more despicable is that you just posted calling me names in another newsgroup >unrelated to this one. Very mature, Gary. Grow up, play by the rules, and try to >lead a respectable life. Guys like this are a product of our failing economy...they can't get factory or truck driving jobs anymore, so they turn to eBay fraud to make a living. Charlie Nudo, aka "66fourdoor," is the same, exact way...a rag picker out to pick your wallet. Article: 332721 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 20:14:18 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145016868.536156.231000@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com> In <1145016868.536156.231000@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com> "CAINE" writes: >those pre amp out- main amp in jacks have the crossover plugs in them- >they are facing straight up near the rear of the unit, on top of the >chassis- I pulled the plugs, cleaned them, and plugged them back in- >still no sound >i.e. the pre to amp connections are bridged with the factory push in >bridging plugs When you say "facing straight up" that makes me think of the bridging plugs being vertical. Most arrangments I've seen like this the pairs of bridging plugs should be horizontal. If this is the case, vertical plugs are shorting the L & R inputs to the amp, and shorting the L & R outputs of the preamp together, rather than connecting preamp outputs to amp inputs. Could it be someone has the bridging plugs oriented wrong? -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 332722 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: <1144864173.223739.113950@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups.com> <9der329maqtrrvvgc2p327qkd323fql05g@4ax.com> Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 16:07:47 -0400 "Blacksmith" wrote in message > On 12 Apr 2006 10:49:33 -0700, siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com wrote: > > I have to chime in here. I've experimented quite a bit and found that, > as they say, if the finish is gone, it's gone. That's because you don't know... I've seen someone bring back Bakelite shine and proven to me once and for all that it is indeed possible to bring back an original shine, permanently. Not an overcoat, not a temporary coating. As for the "eBay shine", that is all bovine by-product AFAIK. You can't bring back Bakelite "hi-gloss" just by buffing with a cloth, some sort of polishing compound/product/whatever is needed, even if minimal polishing "whatever" is used. Syl Article: 332723 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 15:44:08 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145046769.219638.297970@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> On 14 Apr 2006 13:32:49 -0700, "Peter Wieck" wrote: >One ohm in the primary winding is not good. Are you sure? Check for a >shorted cap on the pre-amp side. Charlie Nudo wouldn't know a primary from a tertiary from a toroid. He's spewing hot air here. Article: 332724 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:07:41 -0700 Message-ID: <09e0421nl1cc8esageulg7pnsb6b7dkgon@4ax.com> References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145046769.219638.297970@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1145056504.671538.72390@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145057904.343161.303790@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> On 14 Apr 2006 16:38:24 -0700, "CAINE" wrote: >will do... Hey, Noodles! See that lead with the 475 VDC on it? Grab one end of that, and then grab a water pipe with the other hand. Problem solved! Article: 332725 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:08:50 -0700 Message-ID: <6be0425njaj3bqadgd1468scg9psfnskos@4ax.com> References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145046769.219638.297970@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1145056504.671538.72390@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145058091.507947.66390@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> On 14 Apr 2006 16:41:31 -0700, "CAINE" wrote: >YES, there is a couple of those odd looking green resistors in this >unit- Ceramic wirewound = "odd looking." Only a goof like Nudo could come up with that. Article: 332726 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1145034848.697256.254660@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <5iuv32hfr2lbbbgdj6tpogroi10dfsa59p@4ax.com> <1145051063.594243.292790@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: I just hate it when... Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 00:47:30 GMT "AuroraOldRadios" wrote in message news:1145051063.594243.292790@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > > If a bidder retracts a bid, does the high bid return to the place it > was BEFORE the bid was entered? If not, I'd certainly complain since > the "high" bid really is the last true bid price before the retraction. > It's very perverse to "jack up" the price by bidding and then retract > the bid. It's true that the cards are stacked in favor of the large > sellers. They can get away with a lot before anything bad happens to > them. > Yes, it does revert back to neutralize their bids. But it can hurt the seller by having the bid artificially high enough to scare other bidders away before it gets retracted, and hurts other bidders by taking away the benefits of a proxy bid. jim menning Article: 332727 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "k35454" References: <1145062554.957315.93370@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Cardboard record Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 18:36:33 -0700 "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:1145062554.957315.93370@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... I've just come across an interesting record. This record looks like it's made of cardboard, with some sort of plasticky coating on the recorded side, and a picture of Rudy Vallee on the other. It's slightly smaller than a 10" standard 78, and of course much thinner -- the good news is that it's flexible, and therefore unbreakable. It's dull red in color, with silver lettering in the center (printed on the surface itself -- no label). The song is "Home" by Rudy Vallee. This record was extremely filthy, but I was able to clean it up by (Ugh! Here come the flames!) spraying it with Pledge furniture polish. Say what you want, it came clean and it looks very nice. Playing the record, 78 of course, the recording is exceptionally clear considering its unusual design. It seems most off-the-wall cardboard records I've seen sound horrible. It does skip in a couple of places, and I have yet to visually inspect it to see where/why it skips. If I can fix the skips, it's a clean record in nice condition. Now for the question: what the heck is it? Who made a cardboard record, for what purpose, and what is the recording material made of? This is obviously a 1930's recording. If anyone has some insight as to what it is, I'm very curious. Gary Tayman 78's & 45's I would try to photograph and post it on the binaries, but as of yet I cannot access the binaries, thanks to Earth . . . well, you know. I remember the reddish coloured flexible records being offered (new) for 25 cents as the "Hit of the week" novelty. They were quite useful to friends of mine who had a cabin up the mountain because of their cheapness, light weight, and flexibility... no breaky !!. k35454. Article: 332728 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: ken scharf Subject: Re: Cardboard record References: <1145062554.957315.93370@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <1vY%f.22459$Jk3.812@bignews5.bellsouth.net> Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 22:06:09 -0400 Gary Tayman wrote: > I've just come across an interesting record. > > This record looks like it's made of cardboard, with some sort of > plasticky coating on the recorded side, and a picture of Rudy Vallee on > the other. It's slightly smaller than a 10" standard 78, and of course > much thinner -- the good news is that it's flexible, and therefore > unbreakable. It's dull red in color, with silver lettering in the > center (printed on the surface itself -- no label). The song is "Home" > by Rudy Vallee. > > This record was extremely filthy, but I was able to clean it up by > (Ugh! Here come the flames!) spraying it with Pledge furniture polish. > Say what you want, it came clean and it looks very nice. > > Playing the record, 78 of course, the recording is exceptionally clear > considering its unusual design. It seems most off-the-wall cardboard > records I've seen sound horrible. It does skip in a couple of places, > and I have yet to visually inspect it to see where/why it skips. If I > can fix the skips, it's a clean record in nice condition. > > Now for the question: what the heck is it? Who made a cardboard > record, for what purpose, and what is the recording material made of? > This is obviously a 1930's recording. If anyone has some insight as to > what it is, I'm very curious. > > Gary Tayman > 78's & 45's > > I would try to photograph and post it on the binaries, but as of yet I > cannot access the binaries, thanks to Earth . . . well, you know. > Cardboard records were often bound into magazines as an extra. Mad Magazine had a few of these over the years. I remember one with Alfred E Newman "vocalizing". Actually he burped throughout the record. The recording was called "It's a gas" Article: 332729 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145029529.733213.168930@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 02:19:13 GMT Who is "Charlie Nudo" and why are so upset with this person? Omer "DeserTBoB" wrote in message news:gilv32h8du8kguc5p61e8pb947854gpr7q@4ax.com... > On 14 Apr 2006 08:45:29 -0700, "Peter Wieck" wrote: > >>Even a complete jackass deserves a legitimate answer to a legitimate >>question. > > True enough. I just hate to see such a fine piece of craftsmanship in > the hands of a total moron. > > dB Article: 332730 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: ken scharf Subject: Re: Cardboard record References: <1145062554.957315.93370@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1vY%f.22459$Jk3.812@bignews5.bellsouth.net> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 22:20:47 -0400 ken scharf wrote: > Gary Tayman wrote: > >> I've just come across an interesting record. >> >> This record looks like it's made of cardboard, with some sort of >> plasticky coating on the recorded side, and a picture of Rudy Vallee on >> the other. It's slightly smaller than a 10" standard 78, and of course >> much thinner -- the good news is that it's flexible, and therefore >> unbreakable. It's dull red in color, with silver lettering in the >> center (printed on the surface itself -- no label). The song is "Home" >> by Rudy Vallee. >> >> This record was extremely filthy, but I was able to clean it up by >> (Ugh! Here come the flames!) spraying it with Pledge furniture polish. >> Say what you want, it came clean and it looks very nice. >> >> Playing the record, 78 of course, the recording is exceptionally clear >> considering its unusual design. It seems most off-the-wall cardboard >> records I've seen sound horrible. It does skip in a couple of places, >> and I have yet to visually inspect it to see where/why it skips. If I >> can fix the skips, it's a clean record in nice condition. >> >> Now for the question: what the heck is it? Who made a cardboard >> record, for what purpose, and what is the recording material made of? >> This is obviously a 1930's recording. If anyone has some insight as to >> what it is, I'm very curious. >> >> Gary Tayman >> 78's & 45's >> >> I would try to photograph and post it on the binaries, but as of yet I >> cannot access the binaries, thanks to Earth . . . well, you know. >> > Cardboard records were often bound into magazines as an extra. > Mad Magazine had a few of these over the years. I remember one > with Alfred E Newman "vocalizing". Actually he burped throughout > the record. The recording was called "It's a gas" > PS here is a link to that recording! http://www.nofear.org/Archives/2003/07/alfred_e_neuman.html Article: 332731 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 19:40:00 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145046769.219638.297970@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1145056504.671538.72390@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145058091.507947.66390@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <6be0425njaj3bqadgd1468scg9psfnskos@4ax.com> <1145064122.734144.91960@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> On 14 Apr 2006 18:22:02 -0700, "Gary Tayman" wrote: >Do you have ANYTHING to contribute to this thread besides insults? > >Not everyone on this list is a BSEE with 50 years experience. If >somebody wants to troubleshoot a stereo, why shouldn't we give him >assistance? This guy's an eBay fraudster named Charlie Nudo. He's trying to get that 500C going so he can eBay it as "JUST SERVICED!," like so many of his other frauds.>As it is, this fellow is following instructions, and appears to be >making progress. If we continue making progress, we will have saved >one more nice Fisher stereo, and this fellow will be one happy >listener. Do you have a problem with that? Yes. He's just salvaging it for another eBay scam. Don't butt in when you don't know who the players are. Article: 332732 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 19:44:08 -0700 Message-ID: <3en0425odvu3rtf0e1pq0fc7imcjmtrvmv@4ax.com> References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145063169.724489.219490@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> On 14 Apr 2006 18:06:09 -0700, "Peter Wieck" wrote: >John: Perhaps. But in the OP, he stated that they all lit. And this >unit runs the tubes directly from an AC winding.... excepting (as I >remember) four (is it?) tubes as two pairs run with DC on the filaments >to which you refer. Do you remember whether if the selenium bridge is >replaced with a silicon bridge that there need be no additional >resistance added to protect those filaments? Replacing selenium with silicon results in an additional 1.3 V forward voltage drop per leg. Article: 332733 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 19:46:07 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145063169.724489.219490@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 20:44:39 -0500, John Stone wrote: >Peter: That's right. Only 4 tubes have heaters on DC. But 2 of these are the >preamp/tone control tubes and if the heaters were dead that would cause no >sound. But since my last post on this, he came up with the 0 volts on the >output screens so I'm virtually positive we've got an open resistor. It is a >selenium stack in the bias supply. When I changed it to silicon on the 500c >I had, I didn't see any real need to change a resistor to lower heater >voltage. As I recall, the heater voltage on those tubes is a bit low anyway. Other way around. Silicon has a higher forward voltage drop. Running beam power tubes like 7591/7868s with no screen voltage will eat the tube in short order. Wait'll Noodles prices THOSE! HAHAHAHA! There goes his "quick buck on eBay" plan for this thing. Article: 332734 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Cardboard record Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 19:47:24 -0700 Message-ID: <7ln0425ffqcf339s20iv76ahq8eesb9t7m@4ax.com> References: <1145062554.957315.93370@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> On 14 Apr 2006 17:55:55 -0700, "Gary Tayman" wrote: >This record was extremely filthy, but I was able to clean it up by >(Ugh! Here come the flames!) spraying it with Pledge furniture polish. > Say what you want, it came clean and it looks very nice. I will say what I want...that was stupid. Article: 332735 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <123u1lptdgtkbc1@corp.supernews.com> <13191-443F157B-562@storefull-3236.bay.webtv.net> <1145066610.730272.268950@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: how to shine bakelite... Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 03:08:54 GMT "Terry S" wrote in message news:1145066610.730272.268950@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > I'm a convert, John. > > I just dug out my father's shoe shine kit, which I've used exactly once > since he passed on 6 years ago. In it I found the same several cans of > shoe polish he'd had in there since I was a kid -- and I'm 45. > > I opened up the brown. Wow, the smell alone brought back memories. The > polish was dried up, broken into pieces. So I pulled old shoe shiners > trick and spit into the can. Found the brush dad used for brown, > massaged the polish back into a recognizable form. Took the brush and > swirled on a thin layer onto a bakelite case from a Tesla Talisman > 308U, a broken but glued together radio I'd bought for the chassis a > few months ago. Now this case was not the worst in terms of shine, but > I'd already tried several techniques on it as experiments. Novus, > Meguairs, Brasso... Nothing brought back a high gloss. > > I let the polish dry a few minutes, then found the soft buffing brush > and used that just like you would on a shoe -- quick sweeping back and > forth strokes. Followed up with the brown buffing cloth. A beautiful > shine. Did another application, even better. > > I'm going to try it on a real keeper radio next. > > Thanks for the tip, John! > > Terry. > You guys should take a couple of cheap well-worn radios, and polish up just half of the cabinets. That way you could show the before and after on the same piece. Then display these at the radio club events to the rest of us. Perhaps even give presentations at those club events that have programs with their radio meets. You could even display them challenging others to figure out how you did it, and then hand out a page detailing the procedure. As you've just experienced Terry, "seeing is believing". jim menning Article: 332736 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145029529.733213.168930@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> <6bn042ll990amq1e98jcau8un80qm27704@4ax.com> Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 03:20:00 GMT Okay, I get it, but take a deep breath! The more you rant and rave, the more legitimacy this person gets! I would suggest exposing him in the same manner as the EBay picture fraudsters. This way, you are doing us all a service by letting us know what is going on out there. Omer "DeserTBoB" wrote in message news:6bn042ll990amq1e98jcau8un80qm27704@4ax.com... > On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 02:19:13 GMT, "Omer Suleimanagich" > wrote: > >>Who is "Charlie Nudo" and why are so upset with this person? > > He is a Usenet spammer (or was, at least, until he got four of his > phantom email accounts shut down) and an eBay fraudster. After > getting run out of the 8 track tape market, he's now selling junk > under the name "66fourdoor." Article: 332737 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Omer Suleimanagich" References: <27261-443B2336-316@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: Sound woes on RCA 630TS TV Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 03:22:19 GMT What's with the picture and sound?! Any progress? Omer "Bill Sheppard" wrote in message news:27261-443B2336-316@storefull-3173.bay.webtv.net... > From Alan D.: > >>The pip should definitely "walk" along the >trace as you vary the > marker frequency. > > True. And the better service-grade sweepers had several built-in crystal > controlled markers that could be switched on or off. Especially useful > for setting the traps. > oc > Article: 332738 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: "CAINE" unmasked Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 20:25:08 -0700 Message-ID: For those buttinskis that have no clue about the fraudster Charlie Nudo, aka "66fourdoor" on eBay, take a look at this: http://groups.google.com/group/alt.collecting.8-track-tapes/msg/759a4f35a8742782?hl=en It shows his stupidity, ignorance of electronics, especially collectables, and his attitude toward r.a.r+p. Many of his more recent boners have been deleted from Google Groups, but if you have an NNTP server with good retention, you can do some research on this cretin by searching under his various trash email accounts, some of them closed by Google: trippin28track@yahoo.com trippingtoo8track@yahoo.com trippin2_8track@yahoo.com powerchordg@yahoo.com winchester1886@hotmail.com coltblackpowder@hotmail.com dynobot@hotmail.com hsf18@epix.net analog@epix.net thenudofamily@epix.net He's trying to erase his horrible reputation by simply deleting the posts that show him to be a fraudster and con artist (as well as a first class idiot,) but he doesn't quite understand how NNTP works. Anyone with a good server with a year's worth of retention or more can get the more recent stuff. For a nice overview, see here: http://groups.google.com/groups?q=author%3Atrippin28track%40yahoo.com+OR+author%3Atrippingtoo8track%40yahoo.com+OR+author%3Acoltblackpowder%40hotmail.com+OR+author%3Awinchester1886%40hotmail.com+OR+author%3Aanalog%40epix.net+OR+author%3Athenudofamily%40epix.net+OR+author%3Apowerchordg%40yahoo.com+OR+author%3Ahsf18%40epix.net+OR+author%3Adynobot%40hotmail.com&start=60&scoring=d&num=30&hl=en&lr=&as_drrb=q&as_mind=1&as_minm=1&as_miny=1981&as_maxd=14&as_maxm=4&as_maxy=2006&safe=off& Look back aways in time...the true Charlie Nudo, aka CAINE, aka "trippin28track", aka "66fourdoor", aka a host of others, becomes quickly evident. Maybe after reviewing some of this troll's work in the past, people in here wouldn't be so inclined to help him fix this thing to make out on another eBay scam. He rag picks around his hovel in Drums, PA, cleaning out old folks' homes and garage sales, since his mental problems prevent him from holding down a job. He finally got bitchslapped by eBay awhile back, and had four "goo goo groopz" accounts banned by Google, for his various violations of various ToS. See: EzISf.93465$bF.77436@dukeread07 ...by Uncle Peter when he got bitchslapped the second time. Due to his continuing frauds and spamming, he got his Power Seller status yanked today, so now he's trying to "make nice" to get his eBay fraud business back on track. Ain't gonna happen, Noodles...we're going for the kill this time. I'll betcha large that when/IF (big if) he gets this 500C going again, it'll go straight to fraudBay to try to get his scam business going again. He probalby got it for $5, and he's picking YOUR brains to make hundreds, paying you ZIP. Why support a con artist? Article: 332739 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:44:29 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145029529.733213.168930@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> <6bn042ll990amq1e98jcau8un80qm27704@4ax.com> On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 03:20:00 GMT, "Omer Suleimanagich" wrote: >I would suggest exposing him in the same manner as the EBay picture >fraudsters. See later post for links to archives showing the "true" Nudo. Article: 332740 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Nelson Gietz" Subject: Zenith TO advice Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 02:34:59 -0500 Found a TransOceanic in a local antique joint, and couldn't resist. It's an R600, chassis 6R40. Everything there, including the operating guide and a schematic... even a four page string-tag touting the "Sensational, new, Super Deluxe" radio. Antenna's good, suction cups are good (but hard, of course). It looks like someone took it on one or two trips, and put it in storage. No rust at all. 1L6 and 50A1 are good... or work, at least. Yeah, I put in on batteries for a bit, then gave it a few (!) minutes on AC. Immediate recapping and selenium rectifier replacement are of course de riguer. Questions: Can a resistor be subbed for the 50A1? Line voltage here is 117VAC, pretty reliable. The stag covering is a little worn, maybe some flakes off it. They look like simple dull spots. What's the best way to deal with that? Did I see someone say they used black shoe polish? Cheers, Nelson Article: 332741 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: JJ Subject: Zenith X323 Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 08:15:04 GMT I have a Zenith X323 from 1959. I think one of the tubes is starting to go bad. The FM band is taking longer to come on when the radio is turned on. You hear noise & it takes about 10 seconds for the staion to come on. AM band is fine. Does anybody know which one of the tubes is for the FM tuning & could be going bad? All the tubes are Zenith. Thanks Article: 332742 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: Zenith X323 Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 08:27:48 -0400 Message-ID: <1241pmbatbpvr6b@corp.supernews.com> References: JJ wrote: > I have a Zenith X323 from 1959. I think one of the tubes is starting > to go bad. The FM band is taking longer to come on when the radio is > turned on. You hear noise & it takes about 10 seconds for the staion > to come on. AM band is fine. Does anybody know which one of the tubes > is for the FM tuning & could be going bad? All the tubes are Zenith. > > Thanks I don't have any data for that particular model but most Zeniths (and others) of that era used a 12AT7 for the FM oscillator. If your set has a 12AT7 thats probably it. If not, list the tube lineup here and we can figure it out. -Bill Article: 332743 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: Zenith TO advice Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 08:33:03 -0400 Message-ID: <1241q04l0rsg303@corp.supernews.com> References: Nelson Gietz wrote: > > 1L6 and 50A1 are good... or work, at least. Yeah, I put in on batteries for > a bit, then gave it a few (!) minutes on AC. > Questions: > Can a resistor be subbed for the 50A1? You shouldn't need to replace it since its still good. -Bill Article: 332744 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Not OT- "Never use plastic coated wire for winding inductors - enamelled winding wire is essential." Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 09:14:02 -0400 Message-ID: <1241sd131e75lba@corp.supernews.com> I'm repro'ing a crossover for a Scott Phantom FM, and this guy says my cool little hook up wire wind inductors are bad because I didn't use magnet wire, but not WHY- thanks! http://sound.westhost.com/lr-passive.htm John H. Article: 332745 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: Subject: Re: How to make a diaphragm Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 08:39:32 -0400 "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:dbidnRYSzvgBEt3ZnZ2dnUVZ_sadnZ2d@comcast.com... > can you adapt one from the crank phono diaphrams? > Mark Isn't a "crank phono diaphragm" made of mica ? A non-magnetic material ? Syl Article: 332746 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Not OT- "Never use plastic coated wire for winding inductors References: <1241sd131e75lba@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 09:32:57 -0400 Too much space between turns due to the insulation? Ken Hagstar wrote: > I'm repro'ing a crossover for a Scott Phantom FM, and this guy says my cool > little hook up wire wind inductors are bad because I didn't use magnet wire, > but not WHY- thanks! > > http://sound.westhost.com/lr-passive.htm > > John H. > > Article: 332747 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <4440F6AA.B3B2E593@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Not OT- "Never use plastic coated wire for winding inductors - References: <1241sd131e75lba@corp.supernews.com> Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 13:36:15 GMT Hagstar wrote: > > I'm repro'ing a crossover for a Scott Phantom FM, and this guy says my cool > little hook up wire wind inductors are bad because I didn't use magnet wire, > but not WHY- thanks! > > http://sound.westhost.com/lr-passive.htm > > John H. In no particular order: The insulation on hookup wire melts at a lower temperature. The insulation is a lot thicker The calculations are for a tight wound inductor made with magnet wire. Use anything else and all bets are off. Using different wire requires you to adjust the number of turns, and changed the inter winding capacitance, which affects the SRF of the inductor. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 332748 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: Raido, Ra-a-a-ido, Daylight Come and Me Wanna Go Home Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 09:52:52 -0400 Message-ID: <1241ulqgfqk0069@corp.supernews.com> References: <123ofrmgejdsg5b@corp.supernews.com> <123uc8s10ul2kd1@corp.supernews.com> "Tim Mullen" wrote in message news:e1omvg$sf$1@reader1.panix.com... > In "graham" > writes: > >> People just need to proof read .... > > Ain't that the truth. When I go back and read what I've just typed > I'm sometimes astonished at the mistakes I've made. But they can't make it through your Automatic Spellcheck, right? EVERYBODY has those, correct? I can't imagine being without one. not that they protect you from using the wrong word though. John H. Article: 332749 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 08:05:04 -0700 Message-ID: <0s2242l7ucr4vn91i23uq3vfo2q513rsjp@4ax.com> References: <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145046769.219638.297970@j33g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1145056504.671538.72390@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145058091.507947.66390@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <6be0425njaj3bqadgd1468scg9psfnskos@4ax.com> <1145064122.734144.91960@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145101324.860604.266860@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> On 15 Apr 2006 04:42:04 -0700, "CAINE" wrote: >good post Gary- check your email, I sent you one Here goes the troll again...sowing his seeds of sedition. He wrecked one newsgroup...now he's going for this one. Article: 332750 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Nelson Gietz" References: <123ofrmgejdsg5b@corp.supernews.com> <123uc8s10ul2kd1@corp.supernews.com> <1241ulqgfqk0069@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Raido, Ra-a-a-ido, Daylight Come and Me Wanna Go Home Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 10:07:05 -0500 "Hagstar" wrote in message news:1241ulqgfqk0069@corp.supernews.com... > > "Tim Mullen" wrote in message > news:e1omvg$sf$1@reader1.panix.com... > > In "graham" > > writes: > > > >> People just need to proof read .... > > > > Ain't that the truth. When I go back and read what I've just typed > > I'm sometimes astonished at the mistakes I've made. > > But they can't make it through your Automatic Spellcheck, right? EVERYBODY > has those, correct? > I can't imagine being without one. not that they protect you from using the > wrong word though. > > John H. > ...like the time when my kids were in school, and some volunteer stuff was going on that needed help from the parents. Some four hundred students dutifully brought home a letter, noting that some parents were available to staff a raffle table for much of the day, but they still needed volunteers for several one-hour sh*ts. You see spell checked stuff all the time, where the writer just bet on the spellchecker, rather than his/her own head. Now, to go over this one again... Nelson Article: 332751 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 08:09:20 -0700 Message-ID: <343242pjl3mr0947un8286a4881ipl9me0@4ax.com> References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145063169.724489.219490@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <1145101001.350701.48370@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> On 15 Apr 2006 04:36:41 -0700, "CAINE" wrote: >ps- Peter, check your email The troll's busy again, I see! Power Seller status is gone...Noodles had better be a GOOD boy. Article: 332752 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 08:12:55 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145063169.724489.219490@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <1145106411.348701.93190@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> On 15 Apr 2006 06:06:51 -0700, "Peter Wieck" wrote: >>Other way around. Silicon has a higher forward voltage drop. > >Bobby, boy... now we have the kettle calling the pot black in terms of >actual practical knowledge. > >I think what you are suggesting is that silicon has a higher >*threshold* voltage (Vf) (0.7V) as compared to selenium (0.5V) or >germanium (0.3V). > >A selenium diode has a MUCH larger forward voltage *drop*, >approximately 1.5Vrms/plate(unit). A silicon diode will drop >approximately 0.65Vrms/unit, and in turn, a germanium diode drops about >0.1Vrms/unit. You and Charlie Nudo are a pair to draw to, indeed. Article: 332753 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Nelson Gietz" References: <1241q04l0rsg303@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Zenith TO advice Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 10:18:21 -0500 "- exray -" wrote in message news:1241q04l0rsg303@corp.supernews.com... > Nelson Gietz wrote: > > > > > 1L6 and 50A1 are good... or work, at least. Yeah, I put in on batteries for > > a bit, then gave it a few (!) minutes on AC. > > > Questions: > > Can a resistor be subbed for the 50A1? > > You shouldn't need to replace it since its still good. > > -Bill Bill, I was just thinking of using a temporary sub to preserve the one I have. Any prices I've seen (not many) place the 50A1 in the range of $90 USD. But if failure of these is not common, leaving it in would be okay by me. Nelson Article: 332754 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 08:16:51 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145063169.724489.219490@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <1145099156.598702.120790@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <1145109713.619831.320580@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 09:28:13 -0500, John Stone wrote: > > > >On 4/15/06 9:01 AM, in article >1145109713.619831.320580@z34g2000cwc.googlegroups.com, "Gary Tayman" > wrote: > >> >> Maybe I'm the one that's in over MY head. Out of the car radios I >> receive for repair, easily one-third of them have electrolytics that >> either are pulling current very hard or have a dead short. I've seen >> radios where someone "added" a new electrolytic to the post of the old >> one, figuring it was open, and it started to leak and draw current. I >> just had to return a 48 Buick radio whose electrolytic had a dead short >> and took out the power transformer, which is unavailable. Apparently >> transformers are scarce because a lot of 48 Buicks have had the same >> problem. (Synchornous vibrator, no rectifier in the way) >> >I'm not going to comment on the failure modes of car radios with synchronous >vibrators. I don't have much experience with car radios but the few I worked >on usually had shorted wax paper caps and dried out 'lytics. So I can only >discuss my experience with AC powered tube radios and stereo equipment. And >I stick by my statement based on 40 years of repair experience that while >dead shorted electrolytics do occur, they are not a very common failure mode >in these products. And I've never seen one in the 500c, of which I've >repaired many. Open or leaky, sure. But not dead short. >You seem to completely miss my point regarding this particular situation. >Is it possible he's got a bad lytic? Sure. But, replacing that cap and >leaving everything else the same is not going to fix that receiver. Nope. Avery Fisher didn't use "consumer grade" 'lytics in his stuff, and many of the top-line Spragues and Sangamos have been known to have a working life of over 50 years. The most common failure mode is high ESR, the second being an open, usually cause by some dullard like Nudo plugging in a set without a Variac that hasn't been energized in 30 years. Article: 332755 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C-found the problem-RESISTOR Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 08:21:52 -0700 Message-ID: <3n3242d5g0iplspnosn7u1jl9ej96qtush@4ax.com> References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145018109.623835.155620@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1145034946.381311.130910@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145063169.724489.219490@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <1145099156.598702.120790@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> <1145109129.687627.154590@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com> On 15 Apr 2006 06:52:09 -0700, "CAINE" wrote: > >John Stone wrote: >> Then I must be wrong about which resistor is the correct one or you aren't >> measuring properly. Look, here is what you said before: > >> . > >to think this fine unit was shut down by this one small part, and >almost went to the junky- the horror !! another one saved from the >landfill or shredder....makes me wonder how many were kicked to the >curb for this resistor Hey Noodles...you and Peter Weick should probably go bowling now! Very few of these were "kicked to the curb" due to such a simple failure (that took you days to find.) Most Fisher owners knew the value of these sets and maintained them. Sad to see such a fine example of American electrical engineering fall into your fat, greasy hands. What's the BIN going to be on fraudBay for this....$1000, so you can try to get your "Power Seller" badge back? Article: 332756 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Fisher 500C no sound- any suggestions ? Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 08:23:15 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1145014541.318622.205720@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1145029529.733213.168930@e56g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> <1145100396.765774.282200@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> On 15 Apr 2006 04:26:36 -0700, "CAINE" wrote: >omer, check your email- I just sent you one Get yer Troll-O-Gram! Hey Noodles...do you get alfredo sauce all over your keyboard when you write this stuff? Article: 332757 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: - exray - Subject: Re: Zenith TO advice Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 11:28:29 -0400 Message-ID: <1242496jb0pnqd5@corp.supernews.com> References: <1241q04l0rsg303@corp.supernews.com> Nelson Gietz wrote: > > Bill, > I was just thinking of using a temporary sub to preserve the one I have. > Any prices I've seen (not many) place the 50A1 in the range of $90 USD. But > if failure of these is not common, leaving it in would be okay by me. > Nelson There are some solid-state replacements on the market. They are said to be 'better' than the original but I think you're still talking about 15-20 bucks or so. The set COULD work with a resistor but given the voltage dropping scheme and the fragility of the battery tubes (and the expense of the 1L6) most folks advise against it. -Bill Article: 332758 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: d Subject: Re: Zenith TO advice References: <1241q04l0rsg303@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 16:32:41 GMT "I was just thinking of using a temporary sub to preserve the one I have. Any prices I've seen (not many) place the 50A1 in the range of $90 USD. But if failure of these is not common, leaving it in would be okay by me." There is a brand new 50A1 equivalent that you can easily purchase from a number of sources - Amperite D5TF30 There is one living in my 600 (which I am listening to at this very moment) and it performs admirably. *I* like the idea of having an honest-to-God tube in there, but you could use solid state replacement. If you like to tinker, you can make your own pretty easily. If you join the Yahoo group entitled "thetransoceanicfanatic", you will find a schematic for one in the "Files" section. Here is a source (there may be others) for a commercially available solid state 50A1 - http://www.dialcover.com/tubes.html Article: 332759 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Cardboard record Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 10:21:27 -0600 Message-ID: <22847-44411D87-58@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net> References: <19OdnQPes_sgiNzZnZ2dnUVZ_uWdnZ2d@sigecom.net> I have a hand full of these things