Article: 339526 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Calstan? Radio Date: 13 Aug 2006 01:37:12 -0700 Message-ID: <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> I don't really know much about old radios, but I'm learning! Article: 339527 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Calstan? Radio Date: 13 Aug 2006 02:05:24 -0700 Message-ID: <1155459924.899348.199570@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > I don't really know much about old radios, but I'm learning! And you now have the topmost resource on your continent...Buon gusto! Article: 339528 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Calstan? Radio Date: 13 Aug 2006 02:15:07 -0700 Message-ID: <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Steven wrote: > Dave.H wrote: > > I don't really know much about old radios, but I'm learning! > > And you now have the topmost resource on your continent...Buon gusto! And by that I am counting NSW, QLD, SA, VIC, territories and NZ too AND certainly anybody in Brissie that you can recall. Now do get to work! Article: 339529 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "CAINE" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:13:56 -0700 Message-ID: <1155471236.512589.214840@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Steven wrote: > duty-honor-country wrote: > > RadioGary wrote: > > > Desertguy, > > > > > > I'm sorry for the last commentary that may have inadvertentaly asked > > > you about your knowledge of the prime subject of this newsgroup, > > > antique radio collecting. You obviously know nothing. > > > > > > RadioGary wrote: > > > > Desertputz, > > > > > > > > I have this old Philco radio model 37-650 with an interesting very > > > > intermittent hum in the background. Are you familiar with this set and > > > > can you use your expertise in telling me where to check first? > > > > > > > > Or do you know anything about old radios, repair, and collecting? > > > > > > > > DeserTBoB wrote: > > > > > On 10 Aug 2006 08:36:01 -0700, "CAINE" wrote: > > > > > > > > > > >(laughter...) they do belong there ! > > > > > > > > > > ...and you belong in the nuthouse in Wilkes-Barre. > > > > > > > > > > Enjoy your open account...for awhile. I just got off the phone with > > > > > eBay. They're "reevaluating" their position. > > > > > > (laughter...) wow, talk about a 1-2 punch, DESERTBOB bites dust ! > > Shut the fucking door, bitch! We got air conditioning in here. Why are you and that other guy naked in there ? Article: 339530 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "CAINE" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:18:07 -0700 Message-ID: <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Weldon Nudlpudl wrote: > On 10-Aug-2006, DeserTBoB wrote: > > > Enjoy your open account...for awhile. I just got off the phone with > > eBay. They're "reevaluating" their position. > > Anybody who has struggled with eBay knows that they would rather eat their own young than reevaluate their position on anything. What DeserTBob conveniently leaves out is, his own TWO Ebay usernames were just suspended in recent months- one of them only a week or so ago. He alleged "fraud" claims amount to him returning an audio alignment tape for a full refund, and him keeping a VHS tape because it was a hard to find OOP movie at the time (since released on DVD)- but he was also offered a full refund on the VHS as well. The guy is INSANE. And he's obviously very bitter over his account suspensions. Article: 339531 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "CAINE" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:19:36 -0700 Message-ID: <1155471576.888648.209710@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Steven wrote: > Weldon Nudlpudl wrote: > > On 10-Aug-2006, DeserTBoB wrote: > > > > > Enjoy your open account...for awhile. I just got off the phone with > > > eBay. They're "reevaluating" their position. > > > > Anybody who has struggled with eBay knows that they would rather eat their own young than reevaluate their position on anything. > > Poster: > > Everything Google lists you posting to for at least a week, as much as > a month or so seems to be solely related to our loving couple, Charlie > and Bob, and you post mainly from one of the other groups where we have > our misery delivered from via Domino's Pizza and a 19 year old college > girl in a beat up Isuzu Rodeo. > > We can see that you at least know enough to use Babelfish to translate > German, if in fact it isn't native to you already. We can also see you > might actually comment on topics in our group that actually mattered > more than dB and Nudo. We can only hope you see fit to try that again. > > Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres. Weldon is Bicycle under another name. Article: 339532 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:20:08 -0700 Message-ID: <1155471608.033953.320580@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> I have recently acquired a Calstan transistor tabletop radio, and I took it apart (it's in pieces on the dining table now) noting all the connections and writing them down, but I have noticed the tops of what I think are the transistors. Is this normal. BTW the radio still plays beautifully even though the speaker is worn with a couple of holes, still decent sound, so I'm leaving the speaker in, the transistors, at least I think are the transistors are rectangular with a flat screw like tuneup thing on top. you see them in almost all radios even modern ones. If these aren't transistors what are they? The black wont rub off with my finger. I am new to antique radios collecting, so please excuse me if this answer is obvious. Thanks, dave Article: 339533 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "CAINE" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:20:22 -0700 Message-ID: <1155471622.864342.214440@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Steven wrote: > Beerbarrel wrote: > > On 12 Aug 2006 17:49:02 -0700, "Steven" wrote: > > > > > > >Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres. > > > > > > > > and so does Steven! > > I borrowed it from your closet though. lame...really lame comeback... you're slippin' Article: 339534 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" Subject: FART....radio! Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:24:17 GMT And after a couple of years the 'SHITOLA' appeared on eBay... that's the time for the 'FART', actually the brand name was F.A.R.T., from Italy. I'm not related with this item, even if i know him very well, nice person. See http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300015398462 -- Daniele http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339535 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "455 Pontiac on premium Sunoco-chariot of the gods" Subject: Re: FS: (51) tapes for sale-all new wave-college dorm lot-1980-90's era-PUNK-$$$$$$ Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:33:51 -0700 Message-ID: <1155472431.138769.300710@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155215779.830921.178500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> DeserTBoB wrote: > On 12 Aug 2006 08:12:10 -0700, "Dwight D. Eisenhower" (aka the deluded > Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA) spamming from > wrote: > > > http://tinypic > > DO NOT BUY FROM THIS OFF-TOPIC SPAMMER AND DIRTBAG SELLER! > > This spammer and eBay fraudster, Charlie Nudo of Drums, PA, aka > 66fourdoor on eBay, is yet another annoying eBay spammer, as well as > an eBay cheat and crook. He's obviously under pressure now due to my > efforts, as he's sending my ISP and othe net ops messages threatening > legal action if they don't shut me up...ain't gonna happen! Now, due > to fraud complaints on eBay, he's trying to "direct market" by > spamming the hell out of Usenet. Don't be beguiled by his "great > feedback," either...take a look at his attempts at extortion and his > "buried" bad feedback at: > > http://toolhaus.org/cgi-bin/negs?User=66fourdoor&Dirn=Received+by > > Also, take a look at his retaliatory bad feedback left for others at: > > http://toolhaus.org/cgi-bin/negs?User=66fourdoor&Dirn=Left+by > > This guy's a proven nut case and crook. He defrauded me twice under > two different eBay account names, one having been shut down since then > for fraud. > > Do Usenet a favor...turn this creep in for spam today at: > > groups-abuse@google.com (use email account he used in his spam) > abuse@epix.net (main account POP3 address thenudofamily@epix.net) > > ...and do NOT fall victim to his scam sales! What DeserTBob conveniently leaves out is, he is bitter over having (2) Ebay accounts of his own recently suspended- for auction harassment, driving bidders away from auctions, and posting private contact info. His "fraud" accusations amount to him returning (1) audio alignment tape for a full refund- while he kept another VHS tape because it was a rare OOP movie at the time. You make the call. Article: 339536 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "455 Pontiac on premium Sunoco-chariot of the gods" Subject: Re: FA: AKAI CR-83D 8 TRACK STEREO TAPE PLAYER RECORDER EXC condition Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:37:16 -0700 Message-ID: <1155472635.938910.128290@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Rowdy wrote: > Great classic deck, for more info: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110014426951 You did ok on that one. Article: 339537 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Whoever Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com> <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:40:52 GMT Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :þ Article: 339538 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:50:14 -0700 Message-ID: <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > I have recently acquired a Calstan transistor tabletop radio, and I > took it apart (it's in pieces on the dining table now) noting all the > connections and writing them down, but I have noticed the tops of what > I think are the transistors. Is this normal. BTW the radio still plays > beautifully even though the speaker is worn with a couple of holes, > still decent sound, so I'm leaving the speaker in, the transistors, at > least I think are the transistors are rectangular with a flat screw > like tuneup thing on top. you see them in almost all radios even > modern ones. If these aren't transistors what are they? The black > wont rub off with my finger. I am new to antique radios collecting, so > please excuse me if this answer is obvious. > Thanks, dave Those are variable capacitors of the type used in IF sections. If it tunes fine there's no reason to even touch them, and if you do you may have to learn to realign the set anyway. Holes ain't the killaz, and if they really bug you enough just use toilet paper and school glue to patch, from behind if you can. Sounds like you've got a nice set so det the dust gone with canned air and careful cleaning with plain H2O and a clean rag or ear swabs if needed. Make sure no debris is left behind and remember solvents (including some electronics cleaners are EVIL to some plastics so test a spot on some place or some thing you can afford to goof on. Older sets, even transistorized one can be finicky so have all the components checked to assure they remain withing working specifications... Then show it off and PLAY that BOOGER. I think it'll be a keeper. Bonsa! Article: 339539 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "CAINE" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:51:41 -0700 Message-ID: <1155473501.849181.35770@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Whoever wrote: > Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two > are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with > each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding > in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :=FE In reality, it's because DeserTBob can't stand someone making a few bucks on Ebay selling their old stuff- while he lacks the social and people skills to sell anything. He can only buy. Otherwise, he is so despised, no one wants anything to do with him- including his own family. The guy obviously didn't get enough love as a kid growing up- and still doesn't. And it must suck to drive around in his 1979 Honda. Can you imagine how embarassing that is ? Article: 339540 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:01:28 -0700 Message-ID: <1155474088.221218.117600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> It works fine, I haven't disaligned those things, I only tried to rub the black stuff off. I was using furniture polish to clean inside and out. I guess thats no good. Sounds nice but the volume crackles a bit, and the holes in the speaker cone don't worry me. If it ain't broke why fix it, as the speaker sounds excellent (although I wonder if the crackling is really the speaker) I think I have some old car speakers buried in the shed, I'll try to find them to find out. Not sure if I kept them when I cleaned my shed out. The cabinet came up good with just Mr. Sheen furniture polish with almond oil. Article: 339541 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:03:38 -0700 Message-ID: <1155474218.387717.94580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Oh yeah I forgot, I'll try to take some photos of the speaker and chassis and cabinet tomorrow, we're having a house inspection, but I'll try to squeeze it in. Article: 339542 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:04:10 -0700 Message-ID: <1155474250.836620.242360@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> 1979 Hondas were a particularly robust group of models, if not some of the most renowned and ground-breaking in Honda's history. Subaru also had a great lineup, including an attractive and versatile GL-10 and and a (then) recently introduced phenomenon called BRAT, a mini-pickup similar to El Camino in concept, with 2 seats in the bed that got around the US tariff on Japanese pickups. Most people removed the seats and used the bed with or without a shell, readily available even on the aftermarket. As for Honda, Accords and Civics came in 3 door hatchback, plus the Accord had recently introduced a 4 door sedan to the lineup. The monumental Civic CRX was less than 2 years from it's American introduction, and Honda's star was just about hung over the moon for good. Not much you can ridicule there, Caine. Article: 339543 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:14:17 -0700 Message-ID: <1155474857.707083.253290@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> but I have noticed the tops of what > I think are the transistors. Should be '' I have noticed the tops of what I think are the transisitors are blackened, as if been in a fire. '' Steven has already confirmed what these are. I had it wrong, but what do I know? Next to nothing, but I'm slowly learning! Article: 339544 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:22:37 -0700 Message-ID: <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > It works fine, I haven't disaligned those things, I only tried to rub > the black stuff off. I was using furniture polish to clean inside and > out. I guess thats no good. Sounds nice but the volume crackles a > bit, and the holes in the speaker cone don't worry me. If it ain't > broke why fix it, as the speaker sounds excellent (although I wonder if > the crackling is really the speaker) I think I have some old car > speakers buried in the shed, I'll try to find them to find out. Not > sure if I kept them when I cleaned my shed out. The cabinet came up > good with just Mr. Sheen furniture polish with almond oil. Dave, the crackling isn't the speaker, it's the volume switch. If it's a regular pot, spraying may/may not help it but it must get into the switch (it WILL evaporate over a day or two. DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS POWER IS REMOVED (UNPLUG IT)! Work the switch all the way back and forth numerous times to lube and clean the pot well and do not operate it for most of a day. Work it from time to time to help it self-clean. If you have the rotary point-contact type ALA a pocket set that has a volume wheel, it could be harder and I don't think advisable. Determine which control crackles (especially if it has tone or balance controls) and repeat for all noisy controls. PLEASE NOTE: Cleaning may not be a cure and the noises may return after the controls start to dry out and/or the controls are once again a mess. Eventually you may find yourself replacing the pots anyway. Whomever passes for Dick Smith there will know what kind of sprays are best for the job and safer to use on your plastics. If you aren't having the sound break up all the time or for the briefest time while adjusting the knob, you may always just take it for granted and let it be until it becomes like Alice Cooper's python to you and squeezes the fun out of listening. Some of that fabulous Australian pop music awaits you, so go get it! Article: 339545 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: bicyclingg@yahoo.com Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:41:09 -0700 Message-ID: <1155476469.170261.109640@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> CAINE wrote: > Steven wrote: > > Weldon Nudlpudl wrote: > > > On 10-Aug-2006, DeserTBoB wrote: > > > > > > > Enjoy your open account...for awhile. I just got off the phone with > > > > eBay. They're "reevaluating" their position. > > > > > > Anybody who has struggled with eBay knows that they would rather eat their own young than reevaluate their position on anything. > > > > Poster: > > > > Everything Google lists you posting to for at least a week, as much as > > a month or so seems to be solely related to our loving couple, Charlie > > and Bob, and you post mainly from one of the other groups where we have > > our misery delivered from via Domino's Pizza and a 19 year old college > > girl in a beat up Isuzu Rodeo. > > > > We can see that you at least know enough to use Babelfish to translate > > German, if in fact it isn't native to you already. We can also see you > > might actually comment on topics in our group that actually mattered > > more than dB and Nudo. We can only hope you see fit to try that again. > > > > Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres. > > Weldon is Bicycle under another name. Learn to read a header, it's not that hard. Pretty basic stuff even for an E-tard such as yourself. Article: 339546 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: Soldering techniques References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:53:42 -0400 If I think I will create more of a problem trying to remove the component when there are to many wires going to the lug I just snip the capacitor off leaving a pigtail a and solder it to the pigtail. Not the greatest way but it works for me. What I have also done is get a pin, or a small allen key, wrap 22/24 guage wire around it like making a spring but with the coils tightly wrapped. Then I slid the wire of the new component and the pigtail I left and solder that. It ain't gonna get loose! If anyone is not sure what I mean I can take a few photos and post it on the binaries. Sal Brisindi Article: 339547 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 08:27:53 -0600 Message-ID: <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint.. John k9uwa That was someones oppinion . Atwater Kent proves different . I prefer a hole to at least push the wire through though for joints with several wires . Article: 339548 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "William Sommerwerck" References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 07:40:03 -0700 Message-ID: > Good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint... I would disagree here. A good solder joint starts with clean leads and clean terminals. We've gone through this before, but I'll repeat it... Many years ago J. Gordon Holt, founder of "The Stereophile", argued for simply slipping the leads into the lugs without bending them around. His argument was that this not only save assembly time and effort, but made it easier to replace components. Broadly speaking, I agree. But this method requires cleanliness and close attention to the quality of the joint. Article: 339549 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Beerbarrel Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Message-ID: References: <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com> <1155430142.410104.297780@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <6i7td29fhv91t6vu7dkqje5l7pnuk7ue8n@4ax.com> <1155442326.108859.99120@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155442586.416349.119140@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 10:50:01 -0400 On 12 Aug 2006 21:16:26 -0700, "Steven" wrote: > >Steven wrote: >> Beerbarrel wrote: >> > On 12 Aug 2006 17:49:02 -0700, "Steven" wrote: >> > >> > >> > >Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres. >> > >> > >> > >> > and so does Steven! >> >> I borrowed it from your closet though. > >It's tight because you're slightly bigger. It's tight because you are immensely bigger. I hear your nick is Heafty Half after the old Chevy truck. __________________________________________________________ Have you heard about the new arcade game? It's called 'Whack-a-nuck"! Article: 339550 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 15:57:29 GMT "William Sommerwerck" wrote in message news:fM2dnSiKzZpdpELZnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@comcast.com... >> Good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint... > > I would disagree here. A good solder joint starts with clean leads and > clean > terminals. > If I may chime in once again, you're both right, but I think we're also using a few buzzwords that were once written in some "how to fix a radio or TV" classroom book. Away back many years ago, when I was in class, the teacher gave us each several pieces of copper wire -- I think it was stripped #14 Romex. Our assignment was to make a cube by soldering the ends of these wires together. We could cut, we could file, and we could solder. What he wanted was as perfect a cube as we could make, with just enough solder to make a rounded corner -- no concave, no excess. Of course it was a little tricky to begin with, as it seems we needed 3 hands to hold everything -- and pliers or forceps so we don't burn our fingers in the process. But as I recall it didn't really take all that long. I took extra care, as I thought it would make a neat desk ornament when I brought it home. But it wasn't to be. The teacher looked at mine, gave me 100%, told the class that it was the most perfect cube he has ever seen, and kept it! Darn it . . . Actually you will indeed read that a good solder connection begins with a good mechanical connection. However by "mechanical" it doesn't have to be so strong that you can hang your car from an overhead beam with it. What this means is that you should have a fairly good metal-to-metal contact, so that you're not depending on the solder itself to complete the circuit. By mechanical connection, it is generally meant that the electricity should flow through the joint even if there is no solder. This means metal touching metal, with no dirt or corrosion causing resistance and/or preventing the solder from making a good molecular bond with the metal components. In the case of Atwater-Kent, there is really nothing wrong with a metal wire sitting on a flat tab, except that it can certainly be tricky if you're trying to solder several wires to the same lug. I also have to scratch my head when it comes to those resistors whose ends are made purely of solder -- they melt when you apply the iron, and it certainly depends on a LOT of solder to complete the circuit. Obviously a dumb idea which didn't take long to become obsolete . . . -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 339551 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:07:24 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com> <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:40:52 GMT, Whoever wrote: >Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two >are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with >each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding >in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :þ That's IT! Cholly Noodlez is a closeted homosexual who keeps frauding and lying to attract my attention! Quick...someone chemically castrate that whack job! Article: 339552 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: schmillivolt@yahoo.com Subject: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: 13 Aug 2006 10:00:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED. Any ideas? Article: 339553 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned From: "Weldon Nudlpudl" References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155476469.170261.109640@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 17:24:30 GMT On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:41:09 GMT, bicyclingg@yahoo.com wrote: >> Weldon is Bicycle under another name. > > Learn to read a header, it's not that hard. Pretty basic stuff even for > an E-tard such as yourself. Eh. That wouldn't really disprove his theory. You could use some combination of multiple ISPs, telnet, and long-distance phone calls to pretend to be me. But, if you *are* pretending to be me, then I'd like to know who the **ck you are! Knock it off! Meanwhile, somebody tell Steven that Dutch and German parted ways long ago. Article: 339554 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: ken scharf Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <%rJDg.4388$q96.2677@bignews4.bellsouth.net> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:42:01 -0400 schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote: > I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many > "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon > bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED. > > Any ideas? > Led's are mostly monochromatic (single frequency). You can try getting a tri-color (three chip led) with red, blue, and green elements and by adjusting the power to each chip (these leds have 4 or 5 leads to light each chip independently) you could get the exact color you want. Article: 339555 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: bicyclingg@yahoo.com Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 11:00:02 -0700 Message-ID: <1155492002.942167.151060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Weldon Nudlpudl wrote: > On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:41:09 GMT, bicyclingg@yahoo.com wrote: > > >> Weldon is Bicycle under another name. > > > > Learn to read a header, it's not that hard. Pretty basic stuff even for > > an E-tard such as yourself. > > Eh. That wouldn't really disprove his theory. You could use some combination of multiple ISPs, telnet, and long-distance phone calls to pretend to be me. Who the hell would go through all that? His "theories" are disproven daily. Like the theory that I was posting through Penn State servers that I "hacked" into. He even went as far as calling them to report it, made a complete ass out of himself. I encourage him to keep making stupid and false reports, only confirms what a whack job he is. Article: 339556 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: James Sweet Subject: Re: Atwater Kent red paint- where to get References: <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:02:21 GMT Tom Adkins wrote: > Pete_O wrote: > >> Does anyone know where I can get red paint that matches that used on the >> metal cased AK's? Someone mentioned it a long time ago but I didn't need >> it then. Spray can or regular- it doesn't matter. -Pete >> > I don't know if there is any one who sells it as such, but your local > Automotive paint supplier should be able to match it if it's not a > wrinkle finish. Wrinkle finish is trickier, though it can be done. You can buy wrinkle finish spray paint, perhaps it would work to spray a base coat of that and then use a top coat of color matched paint over it. Article: 339557 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com> <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155473501.849181.35770@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155474250.836620.242360@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:02:52 GMT Bleccchhh!!!!!! I'll keep my 64 Thunderbird, thank you. Why I'm reading this thread in the first place . . . . . . . . . . . . Why I'm contributing . . . . . . . . just having a bad day. Sorry. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Steven" wrote in message news:1155474250.836620.242360@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > 1979 Hondas were a particularly robust group of models, if not some of > the most renowned and ground-breaking in Honda's history. Subaru also > had a great lineup, including an attractive and versatile GL-10 and and > a (then) recently introduced phenomenon called BRAT, a mini-pickup > similar to El Camino in concept, with 2 seats in the bed that got > around the US tariff on Japanese pickups. Most people removed the seats > and used the bed with or without a shell, readily available even on the > aftermarket. > > As for Honda, Accords and Civics came in 3 door hatchback, plus the > Accord had recently introduced a 4 door sedan to the lineup. The > monumental Civic CRX was less than 2 years from it's American > introduction, and Honda's star was just about hung over the moon for > good. > > Not much you can ridicule there, Caine. > Article: 339558 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 10:54:55 -0700 Message-ID: <21468-44DF676F-1@storefull-3176.bay.webtv.net> References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Use a white LED and an amber filter material of some kind. At the moment, i'm shining a white LED thru a piece of orange colored tranparent plastic. Looks like it'd be a pretty close approximation of a NE-2 glow if the brightness were cut down with more series resistance. oc Article: 339559 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> Subject: Re: Atwater Kent red paint- where to get Message-ID: <22KDg.45841$u05.28854@trnddc01> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:18:38 GMT In the world of classic automobiles, that's EXACTLY how it's done. Fortunately for me, the only radios I've wrinkle painted are car radios, and done in black -- the one color that is readily available in just about any auto store. Even so, if you've got an AK radio (or similar) with colored wrinkle paint, it can't hurt to check with an automotive paint store to see if they can whip up the exact thing you need. I've dealt with a paint store in Bradenton who has been simply wonderful. If I want acrylic enamel to match the exterior color, they mix it for me -- in as little as one spray bomb, or one vial of touch-up. If I ask for paint for the steering column, they mix it as well. Dash paint, vinyl dyes, everything I've asked for they make on the spot, and every time the paint has just the right amount of gloss, and goes on well. Of course in the past I've also dealt with paint stores that are less helpful, or want a minimum of 10 bottles . . . If you're lucky enough to find a store that will work with you, take a good sample of the original with you. They can match it, and get you exactly the paint that will work. Now -- I'll confess I've never asked these guys for wrinkle paint, and I don't know what's in the stuff, so maybe they can't make it as easily for some reason. If this is the case, do the above and paint your finishing color over black. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "James Sweet" wrote in message news:NOJDg.23405$zc2.15893@trnddc06... > Tom Adkins wrote: >> Pete_O wrote: >> >>> Does anyone know where I can get red paint that matches that used on the >>> metal cased AK's? Someone mentioned it a long time ago but I didn't >>> need >>> it then. Spray can or regular- it doesn't matter. -Pete >>> >> I don't know if there is any one who sells it as such, but your local >> Automotive paint supplier should be able to match it if it's not a >> wrinkle finish. Wrinkle finish is trickier, though it can be done. > > > You can buy wrinkle finish spray paint, perhaps it would work to spray a > base coat of that and then use a top coat of color matched paint over it. Article: 339560 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> Subject: Re: Atwater Kent red paint- where to get Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 14:33:26 -0400 Message-ID: I'm not an AK expert, but AFAIK, AK did not use wrinkle for any red or green lids on the metal box 47, 55 and 60 radios. Wrinkle is only used on the brown and gold metal boxes, and I think on the black box smaller sets like the model 30 and such. Mark Oppat "James Sweet" wrote in message news:NOJDg.23405$zc2.15893@trnddc06... > Tom Adkins wrote: > > Pete_O wrote: > > > >> Does anyone know where I can get red paint that matches that used on the > >> metal cased AK's? Someone mentioned it a long time ago but I didn't need > >> it then. Spray can or regular- it doesn't matter. -Pete > >> > > I don't know if there is any one who sells it as such, but your local > > Automotive paint supplier should be able to match it if it's not a > > wrinkle finish. Wrinkle finish is trickier, though it can be done. > > > You can buy wrinkle finish spray paint, perhaps it would work to spray a > base coat of that and then use a top coat of color matched paint over it. > Article: 339561 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: lewallie@aol.com Subject: Re: KUTZTOWN SEPT 22-23 who's going? Date: 13 Aug 2006 12:06:55 -0700 Message-ID: <1155496015.019058.40980@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: Mark Oppat wrote: > is it too early to ask? > > I plan on being there with a full load of capacitors, repro dials, knobs, > decals and other vital parts. > > They are expanding into the second pavilion now... its growing and its > right in the heart of antique radio country. > > Mark Oppat Article: 339562 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: lewallie@aol.com Subject: Re: KUTZTOWN SEPT 22-23 who's going? Date: 13 Aug 2006 12:12:24 -0700 Message-ID: <1155496344.524243.171060@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: lewal...@aol.com wrote: > There will be steak dinner friday night. Article: 339563 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Registered User Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 14:55:23 -0400 Message-ID: References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 15:57:29 GMT, "Gary Tayman" wrote: > I also have to scratch my >head when it comes to those resistors whose ends are made purely of >solder -- they melt when you apply the iron, and it certainly depends on a >LOT of solder to complete the circuit. Obviously a dumb idea which didn't >take long to become obsolete . . . It sounds as if you are talking about grid-leak resistors that were never intended to be soldered into a circuit. regards Fritz Article: 339564 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jwb0721@gmail.com Subject: NordMende Carmen 55 Date: 13 Aug 2006 12:27:38 -0700 Message-ID: <1155497258.375171.21460@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Does anyone know where I can get a value estimate on a NordeMende Carmen55 German Radio (it works by the way and has a wonderful full sound). I received this as a gift from a former German Nazi Officer I lived next to in Germany in early 1980. This radio had been in his family for a long time and passed to him on his parents death in the 1930's. Article: 339565 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44DF7DA3.C8B85B80@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275 References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:29:51 GMT :*p wrote: > > Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are > screwing them and not the other way. > > % The same goes for you, Skippy. So you've learned to set a fictitious follow-up? Plonk. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 339566 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44DF810F.7E009EDD@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Applications where tubes are still king?? References: <1154980972.462384.103210@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <0jRBg.9349$bo6.5139@bignews7.bellsouth.net> <44DAABF6.8A2A29A5@earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:44:30 GMT James Sweet wrote: > > > > > > > The operating costs for the tube version more than offsets the > > difference in purchase price, and the smaller number of tube > > transmitters has narrowed the gap considerably. You use less > > electricity for a solid state transmitter, that means less is used for > > air conditioning. The transmitter is smaller, and requires less > > maintenance over its life. That maintenance can be done by less skilled > > staff, and it is rare that the transmitter would go down completely, > > reducing the number of make goods on advertising. You can continue to > > run the transmitter with a single bad output module while it is repair > > locally, or at the factory. If you need a backup generator and switch > > gear it will be cheaper, as well. Thales and Harris are the only two > > manufacturers I'm still familiar with. Thales bought Comark, which made > > the last big transmitter I worked on. All solid state, except the > > Klystrons, and it was delivered a week before the Klystrodes hit the > > market. It uses three 65 KW Klystrons, two Visual, and one Aural. It > > cost over $45,000 to rebuild one of the Klystrons in 1990. > > > > That may well be true, but it doesn't change the fact that many people > still shop strictly by price. Have you ever worked in the broadcast industry? Budgets are usually a five to ten year projection. The electric bill is the biggest bill every month, and anything that will reduce that is a major concern. I haven't seen a new tube transmitter built after 1985 at any station in the area. NEC treid to set one up for Channel 68 in Orlando in 1987, but they never did get it to work properly, so it was donated to a college TV station in exchange for their Ch 18 allocation. Then they bought a new US built transmitter, but I was no longer working at the WCX tower site in Orange City, Florida so i don't know what it used.. I've seen several new AM and FM transmitters installed, and all were solid state. > Look at how many people still use 25 cent > incandescent lightbulbs despite the fact that a $3 compact fluorescent > will more than pay for itself in electricity savings, or who will buy a > $99 Wal-Mart special TV instead of paying $150 to get their older high > end Sony repaired. That is not a valid analogy. THE TRANSMITTER IS THEIR SOLE SOURCE OF INCOME. NO RF = NO PAYCHECKS. Its very true that Broadcasters ARE cheap bastards, but the stupid ones don't survive for long. Its cheaper to buy a bunch of identical solid state transmitters and a set of spare modules, then fire all but one engineer for the area. The pay back can be under two years. In some cases, its under a year. Then they pay the factory to do what the engineer can't, and it usually includes all ECOs and upgrades for a flate repair rate. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 339567 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44DF83C4.49FF1234@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: (De)soldering techniques References: <1155300902.787861.183610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <7063-44DC8A61-25@storefull-3174.bay.webtv.net> <1155305783.869268.287580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:56:01 GMT James Sweet wrote: > > It works a lot better on some things than others but the trick is to dip > it in liquid flux before using. The flux that comes on it dries out over > time and it doesn't work very well. It doesn't "Dry out". It is lost due to handling. It breaks away as a fine dust. the more you handle it, the quicker there isn't enough flux left to do the job. Adding some fresh solder to the > joint before desoldering, while counterintuitive, works well. Its NOT counterintuitive. The fresh solder lifts of the oxidized surface of the old solder which makes it easier to wick solder off the joint. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 339568 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44DF8881.3DE078F7@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com> <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 20:16:13 GMT DeserTBoB wrote: > > On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:40:52 GMT, Whoever > wrote: > > >Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two > >are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with > >each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding > >in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :þ > > That's IT! Cholly Noodlez is a closeted homosexual who keeps frauding > and lying to attract my attention! > > Quick...someone chemically castrate that whack job! Dump some battery acid in his lap. That should do the job. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 339569 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:22:28 -0700 Message-ID: <1155507748.523811.273740@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> SOMEBODY found my new Lycos bit bucket today! It wasn't a Mirthlink customer and it wasn't someone with sand in their britches (he's not dumb enough to write no more). If I wish I might see him next to something about jVxiAnjsGryyya or lovely softcore Japanese dating porn (if you can't read it where DOOO you click?) (answer: You just stare at those goo-goo-Google-y eyes) Until the top falls of my lap, keep the spam coming! Article: 339570 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:25:55 -0700 Message-ID: <1155507954.884606.60260@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> These blackened things are 1 cm square so I think they are the IF transformers. I haven't gotten around to taking photos, but I will do it today. The set is still in pieces on a workbench waiting for me to have a closer look at it. I've never really worked on a radio before, so this will teach me. My next project I hope is to actually work on a valve (tube) set! THAT will be fun. And, Steven all the 4 knobs (1 is missing, another is loose which isn't shown in the existing photo's on Flickr, I'll fix that one up when putting the radio back together) are not the type you find in portables. They are the ones you will usually find on most tabletop sets. Article: 339571 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: FART....radio! Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:26:46 -0700 Message-ID: <1155508006.302175.161840@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: robert casey wrote: > Daniele wrote: > > > And after a couple of years the 'SHITOLA' > > appeared on eBay... that's the time for the 'FART', > > actually the brand name was F.A.R.T., from Italy. > > If Howard Stern were still on regular radio stations, I'd use this FART > set to listen to his show.... ;-) Realign it! Don't you know gas expands and moves to fill all space? Article: 339572 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:28:30 -0700 Message-ID: <1155508110.850755.76410@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Oh, I forgot the volume doesn't crackle unless I actually turn the volume control, so as I have no idea where to use lubricant or what type to use, I'll leave that for now. Doesn't really bother me much. Article: 339573 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:31:02 -0700 Message-ID: <1155508262.173012.326610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > These blackened things are 1 cm square so I think they are the IF > transformers. I haven't gotten around to taking photos, but I will do > it today. The set is still in pieces on a workbench waiting for me to > have a closer look at it. I've never really worked on a radio before, > so this will teach me. My next project I hope is to actually work on a > valve (tube) set! THAT will be fun. And, Steven all the 4 knobs (1 is > missing, another is loose which isn't shown in the existing photo's on > Flickr, I'll fix that one up when putting the radio back together) are > not the type you find in portables. They are the ones you will usually > find on most tabletop sets. Good on you, mate! Many of those sets you've got there are something else. If you go to the races, bet on My Envy for whatever you find! Article: 339574 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275 Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:34:38 -0700 Message-ID: <1155508477.937737.207500@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Michael A. Terrell wrote: > :*p wrote: > > > > Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are > > screwing them and not the other way. > > > > % > > > The same goes for you, Skippy. So you've learned to set a fictitious > follow-up? Plonk. > > > -- > Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to > prove it. > Member of DAV #85. > > Michael A. Terrell > Central Florida I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell the chalk is too small! Article: 339575 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275 Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:51:33 -0700 Message-ID: <1155509493.165219.116070@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Steven wrote: > Michael A. Terrell wrote: > > :*p wrote: > > > > > > Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are > > > screwing them and not the other way. > > > > > > % > > > > > > The same goes for you, Skippy. So you've learned to set a fictitious > > follow-up? Plonk. Plonk lower. man... Now walk on my back. PS Kooks just keep getting harder to blind... I'd like to thank Google for teaching me the 'pick and roll', and of course tha Man for making Michael Terrell everything he isn't. And may I leave the statue and take the supermodel home? Article: 339576 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275 Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:54:25 -0700 Message-ID: <1155509665.796140.132240@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Steven wrote: > Michael A. Terrell wrote: > > :*p wrote: > > > > > > Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are > > > screwing them and not the other way. > > > > > > % > > > > > > The same goes for you, Skippy. So you've learned to set a fictitious > > follow-up? Plonk. What exactly is the purpose of a peanut butter fetish anyway? No wonder radio guys tend to be lonely, they must creep out chicks. Article: 339577 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:57:20 -0700 Message-ID: <1155509840.420307.148950@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> robert casey wrote: > schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote: > > > I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many > > "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon > > bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED. > > > > Use a red and green 3 legged LED. The neon orange color could be > simulated by a mix of the red and the green light. Something like the > red being twice as bright as the green should look close to the neon > orange color. This trick is used in color CRT displays and TV sets. > > That's what ya get if the blue gun is weak or dead! Been there, it's Halloweenish I know! Article: 339578 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: KUTZTOWN SEPT 22-23 who's going? Date: 13 Aug 2006 16:01:11 -0700 Message-ID: <1155510071.361571.43970@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: lewallie@aol.com wrote: > lewal...@aol.com wrote: > > There will be steak dinner friday night. How in the WORLD? ?OH? OH! Was it the > that tricked Google? Neat trick I may try someday. I'll bet you were trying to hide the steak dinner so you could take home leftovers ;-) Nice try Article: 339579 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HobbyBox" Subject: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 13 Aug 2006 16:04:51 -0700 Message-ID: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Hey Everyone, After struggling with this for a little bit of time now, I figured I need to turn to the pros. I have one and a half Majestic Super-Dynamic G-2 speakers, and I trying get one working for a Majestic console that I am slowly working on restoring. The problem is, the field coils for both of the ones I have are dead. There is no continuity between the leads of the field coil, and, upon further investigation, the break is not in the leads, but appears to be somewhere in the coil itself (within the paper). Without completely tearing these coils apart, and pulling wire until I find the break, is there any helpful hints for fixing this? Is it common for these to open up like this internally? Is there a place that sells replacements? Essentially, what can I do without having to pay someone to re-string the entire coil? What would that cost? Sorry for all the questions. I am new to this art of radio restoration, so any help would be great! One last question, I promise. I have the speaker cone, and it is in good shape, but I want to preserve it. I have heard about gluing and other techniques. Is that a good technique to preserve the paper? Thank for everything! -Nate Article: 339580 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Carl WA1KPD" Subject: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:58:16 -0400 Message-ID: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> -OK I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day inside working on a radio. Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have done and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts. I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF output. The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I cannot get rid of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as soon as I put any 45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in my other AK 55 so that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ go way up on my scope once the tubes are plugged in The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT. They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT. However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids and output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a design? All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with the field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too. How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? Any body have any thoughts on this? -- Carl WA1KPD Visit My Boatanchor Collection at http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html Article: 339581 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 09:04:33 +0900 Message-ID: References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> -- Say no to institutionalized interference. Just say NO to HD/IBOC! "Carl WA1KPD" wrote in message news:9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com... > -OK > > I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day > inside working on a radio. > > > > Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have > done and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts. > > > > I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF > output. The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I > cannot get rid of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as > soon as I put any 45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in > my other AK 55 so that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ > go way up on my scope once the tubes are plugged in > > > > The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for > neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT. > They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT. > However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids > and output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a > design? > > > > All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with > the field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too. > > > > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? > > > > Any body have any thoughts on this? > > > Have you checked the center tapping resistor across the filaments for an open? Perhaps the 80 is weak/asymmetrical? Article: 339582 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Black Dial and bluebird UPDATE Date: 13 Aug 2006 17:23:34 -0700 Message-ID: <1155515014.422878.251510@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1153952283.300964.3230@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> After a few days wondering when it would come (seller had job obligations I guess) I got my final invoice for $50 including insurance, in two boxes... It's all good and now I'm off to go pay for it and send it. Now I have to keep up a dialogue with the guy who has the signal generator and keep searching for my scope. I hope my grandmother is pleased to see it when I finish. It's gonna be a humdinger! Article: 339583 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 00:46:11 GMT This is just a shot in the dark, without looking at any schematics, but did you check to see if there may be an internal short in the transformer? Maybe primary shorted to secondary, or shorted to the chassis? -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Carl WA1KPD" wrote in message news:9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com... > -OK > > I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day > inside working on a radio. > > > > Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have > done and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts. > > > > I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF > output. The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I > cannot get rid of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as > soon as I put any 45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in > my other AK 55 so that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ > go way up on my scope once the tubes are plugged in > > > > The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for > neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT. > They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT. > However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids > and output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a > design? > > > > All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with > the field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too. > > > > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? > > > > Any body have any thoughts on this? > > > > > > > -- > Carl > WA1KPD > Visit My Boatanchor Collection at > http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html > > > Article: 339584 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: 13 Aug 2006 17:47:09 -0700 Message-ID: <1155516429.686332.4500@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> Sounds to me like the bias on the 45s is way too low. IIRC, the filaments should be about 45V more positive than the grids, so I suspect that in recapping you may have shorted out the biasing resistance in series with the centre tap of the B+ winding, or returned one or more filter caps to the wrong point. With low bias, the 45s will draw far too much current, which will depress the B+, increase the ripple and put hummmm out to the speaker as well as put ripply current through the field coil. I am assuming you have checked the continuity of the primary and secondary of the p-p driver transformer. Neil S. Carl WA1KPD wrote: > -OK > > I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day inside > working on a radio. > > > > Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have done > and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts. > > > > I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF output. > The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I cannot get rid > of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as soon as I put any > 45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in my other AK 55 so > that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ go way up on my > scope once the tubes are plugged in > > > > The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for > neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT. > They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT. > However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids and > output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a design? > > > > All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with the > field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too. > > > > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? > > > > Any body have any thoughts on this? > > > > > > > -- > Carl > WA1KPD > Visit My Boatanchor Collection at > http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html Article: 339585 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: djep1@juno.com Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: 13 Aug 2006 17:51:56 -0700 Message-ID: <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? > > > > Any body have any thoughts on this? > > -- > Carl > WA1KPD > Visit My Boatanchor Collection at > http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html Have you looked at the bias on the grids of the 45's? s/b about -45V as I recall (A bit less than half of the voltage across the field coil). There is a resistive divider and a bypass cap involved. Also, the - of the filters doesn't run to the chassis ground, correct? Jeff Article: 339586 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Message-ID: <_QPDg.740$Ji1.343@trnddc05> Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 00:54:18 GMT "Registered User" wrote in message news:s5tud29ki2qmlrppk4tlsuaulfilsb95jg@4ax.com... > On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 15:57:29 GMT, "Gary Tayman" > wrote: > > It sounds as if you are talking about grid-leak resistors that were > never intended to be soldered into a circuit. > > regards > Fritz I'm referring to those big ceramic carbon resistors with a single paint splotch for a color code. They have metal tips, and you'll find out the hard way that the tips are actually made of solder, when you try to desolder one end from the lug to check resistance. Anyone who has worked on an Atwater Kent knows what I'm talking about. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 339587 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:05:23 -0700 Message-ID: <1155517523.269080.301470@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Well, Nate, you have really answered your own question. If the field is open circuit, then the only solution is to carfully check such winding wire as you can access for a break [the break is usually on the inside end] and then you measure the wire size with a micrometer, buy the necessary weight of the correct size magnet wire, and rewind the coil [not as simple as it sounds]. Since I happen to have a winding machine, I always 'de-wind' the coil to get a turns count and to recover all the 'form' parts [the core tube and end insulators'. I then make a winding block of heavy wood to support the core tube and the end insulators against the pressure from the tension of winding some 1000-2000 turns on the coil. Once wound it gets a coat of Glyptal insulating varnish to lock it in shape then the wrapper and leads are attached and finally the winding block is carefully removed and the coil installed back into the speaker frame. Cone coatings was discussed only a week or two ago in this group. Neil S. HobbyBox wrote: > Hey Everyone, > > After struggling with this for a little bit of time now, I figured I > need to turn to the pros. I have one and a half Majestic Super-Dynamic > G-2 speakers, and I trying get one working for a Majestic console that > I am slowly working on restoring. The problem is, the field coils for > both of the ones I have are dead. There is no continuity between the > leads of the field coil, and, upon further investigation, the break is > not in the leads, but appears to be somewhere in the coil itself > (within the paper). > > Without completely tearing these coils apart, and pulling wire until I > find the break, is there any helpful hints for fixing this? Is it > common for these to open up like this internally? Is there a place > that sells replacements? Essentially, what can I do without having to > pay someone to re-string the entire coil? What would that cost? > > Sorry for all the questions. I am new to this art of radio > restoration, so any help would be great! > > One last question, I promise. I have the speaker cone, and it is in > good shape, but I want to preserve it. I have heard about gluing and > other techniques. Is that a good technique to preserve the paper? > > Thank for everything! > -Nate Article: 339588 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Carter Cook" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:13:23 -0700 Message-ID: <1155518003.237855.215440@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Hello Nate: Some field coils can be relatively easily removed from the speaker frame by separating a few nuts and bolts. Others are press fit together and essentially impractical for home repair. If yours is removable, it's not too much trouble to strip the wire off the core and rewind the field coil with approximately the same guage of wire. It's a matter of chucking the old core onto the business end of an electric drill, mounting the feed spool of magnet wire on a dowel and winding about as much wire as you can, as evenly as you can, onto the core. Ideally, you want to have DC resistance of the newly wound field coil within a hundred ohms or so of the original resistance. The value is not critical. If that's not practical, you can substitute a fixed resistor (or resistors) for the voltage drop across the field coil and use a modern permanent magnet speaker. Do a power calculation to determine the wattage the substitute resistor is going to dissipate. Use a wattage two or three times the calculated value. This resistor is going to be large and it's going to get HOT. Mount it in a place where it will get good air circulation - probably not under the chassis. Keep in mind that the leads of this resistor will carry high voltage, so the leads should be protected from accidental contact. Article: 339589 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:16:46 +0900 Message-ID: References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> -- Say no to institutionalized interference. Just say NO to HD/IBOC! wrote in message news:1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? >> >> >> >> Any body have any thoughts on this? >> >> -- >> Carl >> WA1KPD >> Visit My Boatanchor Collection at >> http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html > > Have you looked at the bias on the grids of the 45's? s/b about -45V > as I recall (A bit less than half of the voltage across the field > coil). There is a resistive divider and a bypass cap involved. Also, > the - of the filters doesn't run to the chassis ground, correct? > First two filters do not go to ground directly. Beyond that, there are two resistors which more or less split the field coil, and the capacitor at the center point between them goes to ground. This point feeds the grid bias for the outputs. See Beitman's Vol. 1, Page 14. Article: 339590 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:13:37 -0700 Message-ID: <3346-44DFCE41-266@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> >From Carl=A0(WA1KPD): >-OK > >...the CT for neither the output primary >or the secondary to the grids is an exact >CT. They are both slightly higher on one >side. It is more like 60/40 than CT. Sounds pretty normal. They're actually CT in _number of turns_ either side of center. But the length of wire increases as radius of the winding increases. Thus the outermost windings will have higher DC resistance than the innermost windings. Your problem is most likely a bias issue as another poster mentioned. Bill(oc) Article: 339591 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Soldering techniques From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 01:23:38 GMT In article <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com>, yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net says... > > > >That's always nice, but in the early '30s Atwater Kent engineers provided no >eyelet and you simply lay the wire on the pad in a puddle of solder. > >john H. > > yup and that approach works as long as you don't move the joint while it is cooling.. wonder how AK always did that? John k9uwa Article: 339592 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Stephanie Weil" Subject: Re: FART....radio! Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:42:47 -0700 Message-ID: <1155519767.320637.215220@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: robert casey wrote: > If Howard Stern were still on regular radio stations, I'd use this FART > set to listen to his show.... ;-) That'd be kind of hard, since I suspect this is an AM-only radio. :D -- steph Article: 339593 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Stephanie Weil" Subject: Re: NordMende Carmen 55 Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:57:22 -0700 Message-ID: <1155520642.609787.275730@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155497258.375171.21460@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Martin Crossley wrote: > Is it this set? > http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/nordmende_carmen_55.html Hahaha...Bingo Martin. Not a bad story for a 1950s radio, is it? :) -- Stephanie Weil Article: 339594 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:13:58 -0700 Message-ID: <1155521638.697914.185780@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Some new pics http://www.flickr.com/photos/davehenning/sets/72157594235922473/ I took the whole thing *(chassis, speaker) out of the cabinet, when I put it all together, double checking each connection of course, I powered the radio up, and the volume wasn't as loud as it was before. To check if it was the speaker that was the problem, I wired in a modern hi-fi speaker and it blasted ouyt sound. So now I need a replacement 6 inch speaker! I have the one I used for the test but it 5 inches. Too small. I'm thinking I should l;eave the shot speaker in the cabinet disconnected until I find a replacement of the same size and put the hi-fi speaker back in it's cabinet and wire that up for now. Also it has the function for a phonograph but where do you connect it. I want to connect a CD player. It has two holes in the back of the chassis, and one jack on the front of the cabinet that is the type of headphone plug you would see on '60's phono's . Not the modern type plug. But it takes 5 pins on top in the shape of this \ | / and one square pin at the bottom. Tried to get a clear pic of this without fail. And I can only get about two stations on the dial (AM band). What's up with that? I had a wire antenna connected but I stepped on that and accidently ripped it out. It has a ferrite bar. Article: 339595 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:20:16 -0700 Message-ID: <1155522016.698324.181470@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> UPDATE! Tried original speaker again and it has good volume again. Not quite as good as the hi-fi speaker but decent enought that I'll wire it back in. I'll keep the hi-fi speaker handy though. Article: 339596 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HobbyBox" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:27:05 -0700 Message-ID: <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Thanks for the advice, Neil and Carter! I think I just needed the bit of confidence in attempting to respool my own wire. I figured that was the route I had to go, but didn't know how involved it was going to be. I think I'll have to start constructing my spoiling jig now :) Any good sources for being a large bundle of high-guage wire? This spool seems rather large. This looks like it might be a fun challenge. I'll let you all know how it goes... whenever I get the time to complete it all. If you happen on any further advice, definitely let me know! I am in need of any and all. Thanks, Nate Article: 339597 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:55:49 -0700 Message-ID: <1155524149.184618.64050@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> The speaker has improved a bit now. I must have missed something like made a wrong connection. My cat was annoying me, trying to get in the radio, and just being a pain. Listening to it now, to some sports thing. Sound is not exactly perfect but does me. I don't want it loud in case I damage the speaker. The cone's very brittle. Probably will eventually get a replacement. Can't complain for something I got for nothing I guess. Huge radio. I have it in my bedroom and it takes up most of my drawers chest. I have another '60's portable and a reproduction Philco 90, and both of them sit comfortably on top with room to spare. The portable has problems though. Only works when it wants to, which is fine with me, as I only want it for display. One more thing. What year was this beast manfactured? Sorry for my ramblings, I get carried away Article: 339598 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Carl WA1KPD" References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: A-K55 Fixed Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 22:56:28 -0400 Message-ID: "Brenda Ann" wrote > First two filters do not go to ground directly. BINGO, we have a winner. That was indeed it and boy do I feel dumb. Working fast in a daze and everyone knows that filter caps (-) go to ground. Except in a lot of old radios. As soon as I read that post I knew the problem. Upstairs, 15 minutes of rewiring and it is sweet sounding. Many thanks and 73. I have done this before in other radios and feel a little bit silly All hail Brenda -- Carl WA1KPD Visit My Boatanchor Collection at http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html "Brenda Ann" wrote in message news:eboioi$q40$1@news2.kornet.net... > > > -- > Say no to institutionalized interference. > Just say NO to HD/IBOC! > wrote in message > news:1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... >> > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? >>> >>> >>> >>> Any body have any thoughts on this? >>> >>> -- >>> Carl >>> WA1KPD >>> Visit My Boatanchor Collection at >>> http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html >> >> Have you looked at the bias on the grids of the 45's? s/b about -45V >> as I recall (A bit less than half of the voltage across the field >> coil). There is a resistive divider and a bypass cap involved. Also, >> the - of the filters doesn't run to the chassis ground, correct? >> > Beyond that, there are two > resistors which more or less split the field coil, and the capacitor at > the center point between them goes to ground. This point feeds the grid > bias for the outputs. > > See Beitman's Vol. 1, Page 14. > > > Article: 339599 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Bill Morris" References: <1155519767.320637.215220@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: FART....radio! Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 23:09:37 -0400 Message-ID: <44dfe969$0$1017$39cecf19@news.twtelecom.net> So you plug it in, switch it on and it gives off a funny odor. Blame it on the dog..... "Stephanie Weil" wrote in message news:1155519767.320637.215220@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > robert casey wrote: > >> If Howard Stern were still on regular radio stations, I'd use this FART >> set to listen to his show.... ;-) > > That'd be kind of hard, since I suspect this is an AM-only radio. :D > > -- > steph > Article: 339600 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: A-K55 Fixed Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 12:30:10 +0900 Message-ID: References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> -- Say no to institutionalized interference. Just say NO to HD/IBOC! "Carl WA1KPD" wrote in message news:DtqdncUMSdjCe0LZnZ2dnUVZ_oednZ2d@comcast.com... > "Brenda Ann" wrote > First two filters do not go to > ground directly. > > BINGO, we have a winner. That was indeed it and boy do I feel dumb. > Working fast in a daze and everyone knows that filter caps (-) go to > ground. Except in a lot of old radios. As soon as I read that post I knew > the problem. Upstairs, 15 minutes of rewiring and it is sweet sounding. > > Many thanks and 73. I have done this before in other radios and feel a > little bit silly > I try to help, but some of the others deserve as much credit. :) Article: 339601 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 13 Aug 2006 20:51:06 -0700 Message-ID: <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> There are several magnet wire suppliers listed if you Google 'magnet wire'. Once you have determined the wire gauge [diameter to an accuracy of 1/10,000 "], and you have weighed the existing coil, you can contact the suppliers and see who will sell you "single weight" polythermaleze of the correct size and in the quantity you need. Neil S. HobbyBox wrote: > Thanks for the advice, Neil and Carter! I think I just needed the bit > of confidence in attempting to respool my own wire. I figured that was > the route I had to go, but didn't know how involved it was going to be. > I think I'll have to start constructing my spoiling jig now :) > > Any good sources for being a large bundle of high-guage wire? This > spool seems rather large. > > This looks like it might be a fun challenge. I'll let you all know how > it goes... whenever I get the time to complete it all. > > If you happen on any further advice, definitely let me know! I am in > need of any and all. > > Thanks, > Nate Article: 339602 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: James Sweet Subject: It speaks! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 04:38:17 GMT Some of you may have been following my acquisition of a console consisting of a 1938 7 tube Zenith shutterdial chassis in a Sparton cabinet. I finally had some time to work on the chassis some this weekend. I replaced the electrolytics as well as a capacitor hanging off the audio output tube and another cap and resistor (out of tolerance) that happened to share some of the same lugs. I applied power, no smoke or funny sounds, and then a short while later I was greeted by a buzz. A twirl of the dial and people bitching about politics blared from the speaker, not my first choice of listening material but it works! I was pleased to find a fair amount of activity on the SW band though the tuning seems a bit twitchy, as well as a tiny amount on the "Police" band which all in all is pretty impressive given my antenna is about 6' of wire strewn across the floor. It's definitely far from done, the controls are very noisy, the tuning feels a bit odd at least on the SW band, the tuning eye glows dimly but is completely unresponsive, the insulation is crumbling off the speaker wires and there's still a fair amount of cleaning and other cosmetic work to do but it's off to a good start. I've been restuffing the original capacitors as practice, it does slow things down a bit but it's not as difficult as I would have assumed. I cheated and used hot glue instead of salvaging the original brown wax and then dipping the finished cap in molten white candle wax to give it that waxy look, it'd take a close eye to ever see the difference. I'm already feeling the itch to get another radio too, hopefully I can find a nice little wood cased table radio at some point, an AA5 would be fine, I'm *hoping* that that'll be enough, I don't want my whole house stacked with radios, at some point I wouldn't mind trading up to a nicer all original console though. Article: 339603 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "AuroraOldRadios" Subject: Re: It speaks! Date: 13 Aug 2006 21:51:54 -0700 Message-ID: <1155531113.977189.274670@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: James Sweet wrote: > Some of you may have been following my acquisition of a console > consisting of a 1938 7 tube Zenith shutterdial chassis in a Sparton > cabinet. > > I finally had some time to work on the chassis some this weekend. I > replaced the electrolytics as well as a capacitor hanging off the audio > output tube and another cap and resistor (out of tolerance) that > happened to share some of the same lugs. I applied power, no smoke or > funny sounds, and then a short while later I was greeted by a buzz. A > twirl of the dial and people bitching about politics blared from the > speaker, not my first choice of listening material but it works! I was > pleased to find a fair amount of activity on the SW band though the > tuning seems a bit twitchy, as well as a tiny amount on the "Police" > band which all in all is pretty impressive given my antenna is about 6' > of wire strewn across the floor. > > It's definitely far from done, the controls are very noisy, the tuning > feels a bit odd at least on the SW band, the tuning eye glows dimly but > is completely unresponsive, the insulation is crumbling off the speaker > wires and there's still a fair amount of cleaning and other cosmetic > work to do but it's off to a good start. I've been restuffing the > original capacitors as practice, it does slow things down a bit but it's > not as difficult as I would have assumed. I cheated and used hot glue > instead of salvaging the original brown wax and then dipping the > finished cap in molten white candle wax to give it that waxy look, it'd > take a close eye to ever see the difference. > > I'm already feeling the itch to get another radio too, hopefully I can > find a nice little wood cased table radio at some point, an AA5 would be > fine, I'm *hoping* that that'll be enough, I don't want my whole house > stacked with radios, at some point I wouldn't mind trading up to a nicer > all original console though. What? You don't want consoles and tombstones stacked to the ceiling? Once you get the "bug" it'll be hard to stop. Isn't it a grand feeling to power up a newly-repaired chassis and hear it work? Article: 339604 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "AuroraOldRadios" Subject: FS: Zenith branded globe 45 aka TYPE Z-45, used Date: 13 Aug 2006 22:06:59 -0700 Message-ID: <1155532019.233227.174650@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> FS: Somebody here might need one for a Zenith late 20s console. Looks good, tests 750 where 575 is minimum, no gas, passes life test, no shorts (Hickok 752). Also a quick emission test shows it to be strong. No loose particles inside glass, good getter. Big globe with engraved base, Zenith Type Z-45. $65 includes shipping to CUSA. Guaranteed good (your test results may vary). reply to: menwagoh at msn d0t c0m Article: 339605 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" Subject: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 00:14:09 -0500 Message-ID: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though. This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by Clinton. Looks like this: http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder failed to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be there under some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the inside of the cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) and doesn't photograph well. Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80. Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is on it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent maker-style nail-on tags. Thanks paul -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Article: 339606 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 22:25:53 -0700 Message-ID: <1155533153.818248.286890@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > The speaker has improved a bit now. I must have missed something like > made a wrong connection. My cat was annoying me, trying to get in the > radio, and just being a pain. Listening to it now, to some sports > thing. Sound is not exactly perfect but does me. I don't want it loud > in case I damage the speaker. The cone's very brittle. Probably will > eventually get a replacement. Can't complain for something I got for > nothing I guess. Huge radio. I have it in my bedroom and it takes up > most of my drawers chest. I have another '60's portable and a > reproduction Philco 90, and both of them sit comfortably on top with > room to spare. The portable has problems though. Only works when it > wants to, which is fine with me, as I only want it for display. One > more thing. What year was this beast manfactured? Sorry for my > ramblings, I get carried away Dave, ask one of the speaker experts such as Ken G. about treating the cone short term vs. a recone. Since I have no idea about where to find reconers in your area, treatment and lighter usage seems to be a great idea until you find this service. Article: 339607 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Black Dial and bluebird UPDATE Date: 13 Aug 2006 22:27:46 -0700 Message-ID: <1155533266.470961.274210@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1153952283.300964.3230@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Mail being mailed, I'll let you know when I know and I get it. Article: 339608 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 01:39:50 -0400 Message-ID: I recall seeing this dial under the name "Imperial" in the Stein books... its definitely a "supplier" made set. It could have been sold under the Lafayette name too I think. Mark Oppat "Paul Dietenberger" wrote in message news:44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com... > I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though. > > This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by > Clinton. Looks like this: > http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg > 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder failed > to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be there under > some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the inside of the > cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) and doesn't > photograph well. > > Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80. > > Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is on > it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent maker-style > nail-on tags. > > Thanks > paul > > > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > > Article: 339609 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 23:13:32 -0700 Message-ID: <1155536012.823179.295660@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> How would I go about getting an AM transmitter so I can broadcast my music to it? I have a FM transitter, but not AM. I'm willing to build one. Do not know where I can get one, or the parts for one. Article: 339610 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 23:21:14 -0700 Message-ID: <1155536474.735725.9380@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> I've already got the itch to get another antique radio. I've started watching out on eBay for any I can do a practice restore on. I want a valve (tube) radio next. There's nothing like listening to that rich sound an old valve radio has. Article: 339611 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 23:33:54 -0700 Message-ID: <1155537234.907825.70130@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> Think I found one to learn on http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HMV-LITTLE-NIPPER-SUPER-5-VALVE-RADIO_W0QQitemZ280016193029QQihZ018QQcategoryZ3284QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Article: 339612 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO? Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 23:58:23 -0700 Message-ID: I just got done with a recap and alignment of a Zenith 8G005 Trans-Oceanic. It plays great with its built-in antennas and is very sensitive. I would like to place this radio on the middle of a series of shelves, which precludes extending the giant built-in whip antenna. Unlike the later 1950s TOs, this radio does not have provisions for connecting an external longwire antennna (there is no A or G terminals on the back of the set). I tried extending the antenna just enough to clip a longwire antenna to it, but that doesn't work too well. I get audio that sounds like someone is gargling and there is hum that appears whenever I tune into a station. Is there anything I can do to allow a longwire antenna to be used as the primary antenna on this set without the gargling? -Scott Article: 339613 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO? Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:46:30 +0900 Message-ID: References: -- Say no to institutionalized interference. Just say NO to HD/IBOC! "Scott W. Harvey" wrote in message news:ebp6r30ppa@news1.newsguy.com... >I just got done with a recap and alignment of a Zenith 8G005 Trans-Oceanic. >It plays great with its built-in antennas and is very sensitive. > > I would like to place this radio on the middle of a series of shelves, > which precludes extending the giant built-in whip antenna. Unlike the > later 1950s TOs, this radio does not have provisions for connecting an > external longwire antennna (there is no A or G terminals on the back of > the set). I tried extending the antenna just enough to clip a longwire > antenna to it, but that doesn't work too well. I get audio that sounds > like someone is gargling and there is hum that appears whenever I tune > into a station. Is there anything I can do to allow a longwire antenna to > be used as the primary antenna on this set without the gargling? > > -Scott Interesting. There should be a set of screws right where the monopole antenna connects, with the antenna going to the one closest to the monopole connection, and the ground to the other. Should look a little like this: M A G v [] ( ) ( ) Article: 339614 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Eddie Brimer" Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: 14 Aug 2006 04:35:11 -0700 Message-ID: <1155555311.205871.53180@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Paul Dietenberger wrote: > I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though. > > This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by > Clinton. Looks like this: > http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg > 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder failed > to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be there under > some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the inside of the > cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) and doesn't > photograph well. > > Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80. > > Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is on > it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent maker-style > nail-on tags. > > Thanks > paul > dand good looking radio you got there paul. > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Article: 339615 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: It speaks! From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 12:15:50 GMT In article , jamessweet@hotmail.com says... > > >It's definitely far from done, the controls are very noisy, the tuning >feels a bit odd at least on the SW band, the tuning eye glows dimly but >is completely unresponsive, the insulation is crumbling off the speaker Congrats James .... check from pin 2 to 4 in the eye tube socket... 1 meg resistor inside the socket is usually way way high. Also lack of response says that your AVC negative voltage isn't swinging far enough negative on strong signals ... you need -8 to -9 volts to close the eye if tube is a 6E5 .. about 25 feet or wire antenna and a 50KW station thats about 45 miles away and the eye should close if you have all the resistors and capacitors in the avc curcuit correct.. John k9uwa Article: 339616 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 12:19:53 GMT In article <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>, hobby.box@gmail.com says... > > >Any good sources for being a large bundle of high-guage wire? This >spool seems rather large. > > >Thanks, >Nate > If you have a local shop that repairs motors... they will have the wire you need.. John k9uwa Article: 339617 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Stein-Olav Lund Subject: Re: (De)soldering techniques Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 14:59:34 +0200 Message-ID: References: <1155300902.787861.183610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <7063-44DC8A61-25@storefull-3174.bay.webtv.net> <1155305783.869268.287580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <44dc8f4c$0$509$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Paul Dietenberger wrote: > "toxcrusadr" wrote in message > news:1155305783.869268.287580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > >>Showing my ignorance here, but... >> >>1) What are dikes? > > > Diagonal cutters. > > >>2) How the heck (and when) do you use solder braid? I can never get >>solder to go up into it. Do you put it on the work and put the iron on >>top of it, or what? It seems like a pain to use the stuff but maybe >>I'm using it wrong. I prefer my solder sucker. This summer we were at a ham radio repeater doing some repair. We didn't have any desolder braid, and had to change a component on a PCB..Got a tip from one of the guys there: Take a bit of the insulation off a piece of stranded wire and go into the woods, rub a pine tree and get rosin onto it... He left the site and returned with pine rosin on the wire, and it worked like a charm to remove the solder, actually smelt like normal solder rosin! LA9QV Article: 339618 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 07:50:31 -0600 Message-ID: <10418-44E07FA7-166@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net> References: <44DF8520.49E0E86C@earthlink.net> so that thermal cycling doesn't separate the tin plating from the steel component leads. That might happen once in 50 years . Article: 339619 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO? Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 07:33:19 -0700 Message-ID: References: Brenda Ann wrote: > Interesting. There should be a set of screws right where the monopole > antenna connects, with the antenna going to the one closest to the monopole > connection, and the ground to the other. Should look a little like this: > > > M A G > v > [] ( ) ( ) Not on this set, and not on another 8G005 that I have in the restoration queue either. The only antenna connectors that are there are jacks for small cylindrical plugs which attach the monopole and Broadcast Wavemagnet (and a socket to plug in the shortwave wavemagnet for use in planes, trains and automobiles). I'm guessing that Zenith did not include the A and G screws to facilitate connection of a longwire until they went to miniature tubes in the 1950s (G500 and later), reasoning that the monopole was sufficient for shortwave reception (which it is, for the most part). I have noticed a bit of the same hum shows up when I tune to a very strong SW station using the monopole (not enough to be annoying, but it is there), lowering the monopole a bit seems to eliminate that. It's been a very long time since I've done an 8G005, and this is the version that has the one slender miniature tube for a rectifier (which I have never done) so I don't know if this behavior is typical of this model or not. I wonder what is going on here? All of the filter caps have been restuffed with brand new caps and the 60 Hz hum coming from the speaker with the volume turned all the way down is so low I literally have to press my ear to the speaker grille in order to hear any of it at all, so I have good reason to believe the replacement caps are healthy. -Scott Article: 339620 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: 14 Aug 2006 08:02:11 -0700 Message-ID: <1155567730.938648.35470@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Eddie Brimer wrote: > dand good looking radio you got there paul. Thanks, I like it.....Wish I could take credit for the refinish but I can't; it was done by Jerry Huelsbeck upstate with his Binks and it looks even better in person. He had a lot of work to do, it had been "antiqued". I bought it from him with only the cabinet done. I get to do the chassis, and it's rusty dusty mess but it talked to me when I replaced the filter caps. So it'll be a big job but with any luck it'll be a nice radio soon. Too bad it's anonymous. It ought to have a name. -p. Article: 339621 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: (De)Soldering techniques Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 08:16:05 -0700 Message-ID: <28856-44E093B5-243@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net> References: <10418-44E07FA7-166@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net> It's a bit surprizing there hasn't been more discussion of the method described earlier- of using a large dikes to split a wiring bundle lengthwise on the lug, so that when heated, it just separates from the lug like two sides of ribs. It's hassle free, requires no braid or solder-slurper, just a large diagonal cutter for leverage, some heat, and gravity. Works in cramped quarters such as in car radios, especially useful in replacing twist-lok electrolytics having many wires wrapped on their lugs. Easy on terminal strips and tube socket lugs too, as minimal flexing stress is imposed on the lug (compared to the stress of prying and unwinding a lot of the wires while unsoldering). Bill(oc) Article: 339622 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Applications where tubes are still king?? References: <1154980972.462384.103210@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <0jRBg.9349$bo6.5139@bignews7.bellsouth.net> <44DAABF6.8A2A29A5@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:57:24 -0500 James Sweet wrote: > >> >> >> The operating costs for the tube version more than offsets the >> difference in purchase price, and the smaller number of tube >> transmitters has narrowed the gap considerably. You use less >> electricity for a solid state transmitter, that means less is used for >> air conditioning. The transmitter is smaller, and requires less >> maintenance over its life. That maintenance can be done by less skilled >> staff, and it is rare that the transmitter would go down completely, >> reducing the number of make goods on advertising. You can continue to >> run the transmitter with a single bad output module while it is repair >> locally, or at the factory. If you need a backup generator and switch >> gear it will be cheaper, as well. Thales and Harris are the only two >> manufacturers I'm still familiar with. Thales bought Comark, which made >> the last big transmitter I worked on. All solid state, except the >> Klystrons, and it was delivered a week before the Klystrodes hit the >> market. It uses three 65 KW Klystrons, two Visual, and one Aural. It >> cost over $45,000 to rebuild one of the Klystrons in 1990. >> > > > > That may well be true, but it doesn't change the fact that many people > still shop strictly by price. Look at how many people still use 25 cent > incandescent lightbulbs despite the fact that a $3 compact fluorescent > will more than pay for itself in electricity savings, or who will buy a > $99 Wal-Mart special TV instead of paying $150 to get their older high > end Sony repaired. > Unfortunately, the $99 Walmart will probably have desirable features unavailable on the ten year old Sony. Even though ten years life is a pipe dream for the WM special, in a decade, the HD will likely have finally taken off, so even the WM set will be obsolete if it still works at all. The light bulb example doesn't work either, as incandescents are better at some things than CFL's. The color temp is more agreeable to many. They fire up to full brightness immediately. They can be used outdoors. They can be dimmed reliably...and speaking of reliability, that's a factor as well. There is nothing quite so disheartening than to spend several times extra for a supposedly 'long life' product, only to find it didn't last any longer than the standard product it was supposed to replace. I think the LED is a much better technology, with more potential for eventually replacing the heated wire as a source of light. jak Article: 339623 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Soldering techniques References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:00:46 -0500 Mike wrote: > On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 13:49:46 -0400, "Hagstar" > wrote: > >> "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message >> news:3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72... >> >>> good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint.. >>> >> That's always nice, but in the early '30s Atwater Kent engineers provided no >> eyelet and you simply lay the wire on the pad in a puddle of solder. >> >> john H. >> > Sounds like early Surface Mount Technology (heh, heh) > > It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when > soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder. > > Mike > Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint. The lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to speak of. jak Article: 339624 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Soldering techniques References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:02:52 -0500 William Sommerwerck wrote: >> Good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint... > > I would disagree here. A good solder joint starts with clean leads and clean > terminals. > > We've gone through this before, but I'll repeat it... Many years ago J. > Gordon Holt, founder of "The Stereophile", argued for simply slipping the > leads into the lugs without bending them around. His argument was that this > not only save assembly time and effort, but made it easier to replace > components. > As I pointed out above, this is exactly what happens on every joint, on every printed circuit. Without the solder, the components would simply fall off. jak > Broadly speaking, I agree. But this method requires cleanliness and close > attention to the quality of the joint. > > > Article: 339625 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO? Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 08:58:02 -0700 Message-ID: <14519-44E09D8A-504@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net> References: >From Scott: >I get audio that sounds like someone is >gargling and there is hum that appears >whenever I tune into a station. There is a phenomenon called 'tunable hum' wherein the received signal gets 'modulated' by the 60 cycle powerline. It's usually caused by SS diodes somewhere nearby acting as an RF switch, switching a section of house wiring 'on' and 'off' to RF at 60 cycle rate. >Is there anything I can do to allow a >longwire antenna to be used as the >primary antenna on this set without the >gargling? Try turning off all nearby equipment containing SS diodes in the power supply. If you've replaced the TO's selenium with a SS diode, try reversing the AC plug in the wall outlet. Have you tried running the TO on batteries? Bill(oc) Article: 339626 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6pMDg.3888$Qf.3778@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:06:18 -0500 robert casey wrote: > schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote: > >> I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many >> "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon >> bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED. >> > > Use a red and green 3 legged LED. The neon orange color could be > simulated by a mix of the red and the green light. Something like the > red being twice as bright as the green should look close to the neon > orange color. This trick is used in color CRT displays and TV sets. >> > To complete the illusion, you might add some kind of circuit to make it flicker as well. Article: 339627 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS) Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 16:21:15 GMT Message-ID: References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6pMDg.3888$Qf.3778@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> In article , jakdedert wrote: >robert casey wrote: >> schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote: >> >>> I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many >>> "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon >>> bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED. >>> >> >> Use a red and green 3 legged LED. The neon orange color could be >> simulated by a mix of the red and the green light. Something like the >> red being twice as bright as the green should look close to the neon >> orange color. This trick is used in color CRT displays and TV sets. >>> >> >To complete the illusion, you might add some kind of circuit to make it >flicker as well. And burn out also. greg Article: 339628 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "big_john" Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO? Date: 14 Aug 2006 09:21:45 -0700 Message-ID: <1155572505.420750.40240@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: You can take a coil with MANY windings on it (can be small or large in size) and hook one end to an outside antenna and the other end to an earth ground. Place the coil near the radio and it will couple the signal to the built-in antenna the radio has. You may have to orient the coil a bit for best signal strength. Article: 339629 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS) Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 16:27:05 GMT Message-ID: References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> In article , jakdedert wrote: >Mike wrote: >> On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 13:49:46 -0400, "Hagstar" >> wrote: >> >>> "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message >>> news:3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72... >>> >>>> good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint.. >>>> >>> That's always nice, but in the early '30s Atwater Kent engineers provided no > >>> eyelet and you simply lay the wire on the pad in a puddle of solder. >>> >>> john H. >>> >> Sounds like early Surface Mount Technology (heh, heh) >> >> It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when >> soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder. >> >> Mike >> >Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint. The >lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to >speak of. There is always mechanical contact when doing PCB's. It may be poor but surface mount components touch down before soldering. I think the worse case is flat packs and large thin leaded processors chips, where the leads are very thin and may be the case where there is not good contact first. greg Article: 339630 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155442489.853218.311050@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155448463.626136.218300@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155453725.474288.280800@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155453918.679954.96860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155457765.211438.125640@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155459924.899348.199570@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155471608.033953.320580@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155474088.221218.117600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 16:45:29 GMT Although it appears Steven has given you a tremendous amount of help already, I think I'll chime in for a moment. The crackling you're hearing, is it a noise that you hear when you adjust the volume control, or is it a distortion that you hear the entire time the radio is playing? You mentioned a torn speaker cone; if the speaker's cone is warped and the voice coil is rubbing against the magnet, you will indeed hear distortion and you may need to replace your speaker. A substitute speaker, as you mentioned is the best way to troubleshoot this. If the crackling sound is a static noise you get when adjusting the volume control, then indeed you should try cleaning the control. As for what to use, there are debates on this list till kingdom come, but personally I've had the best luck with WD-40 -- and you don't necessarily need to wait till tomorrow to use the radio; I use it right away. Now -- others I'm sure will chime in, saying that WD-40 will turn it into a pumpkin or something, but I've used it for many years with excellent results -- and I was told about it from a manufacturer. I also know that many on this list believe in De-Oxit. I was in a store and bought some, what turned out to be De-Ox-Id, with a "d", by GC Electronics. It works, although WD-40 works noticeably better. Someday I'll find the stuff with the "t" and compare it. But heck -- even Radio Shack cleaner will work -- it's not my favorite but it will work. If it doesn't come clean no matter what, chances are the pad is worn through, and you'll need to replace the control. Mark Oppat, on this list, can help you if you need to go that far. But chances are it's the speaker. Keep us posted. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Steven" wrote in message news:1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com... > > Dave.H wrote: >> It works fine, I haven't disaligned those things, I only tried to rub >> the black stuff off. I was using furniture polish to clean inside and >> out. I guess thats no good. Sounds nice but the volume crackles a >> bit, and the holes in the speaker cone don't worry me. If it ain't >> broke why fix it, as the speaker sounds excellent (although I wonder if >> the crackling is really the speaker) I think I have some old car >> speakers buried in the shed, I'll try to find them to find out. Not >> sure if I kept them when I cleaned my shed out. The cabinet came up >> good with just Mr. Sheen furniture polish with almond oil. > > Dave, the crackling isn't the speaker, it's the volume switch. > > If it's a regular pot, spraying may/may not help it but it must get > into the switch (it WILL evaporate over a day or two. DO NOT DO THIS > UNLESS POWER IS REMOVED (UNPLUG IT)! Work the switch all the way back > and forth numerous times to lube and clean the pot well and do not > operate it for most of a day. Work it from time to time to help it > self-clean. If you have the rotary point-contact type ALA a pocket set > that has a volume wheel, it could be harder and I don't think > advisable. > > Determine which control crackles (especially if it has tone or balance > controls) and repeat for all noisy controls. > > PLEASE NOTE: Cleaning may not be a cure and the noises may return after > the controls start to dry out and/or the controls are once again a > mess. Eventually you may find yourself replacing the pots anyway. > > Whomever passes for Dick Smith there will know what kind of sprays are > best for the job and safer to use on your plastics. > > If you aren't having the sound break up all the time or for the > briefest time while adjusting the knob, you may always just take it for > granted and let it be until it becomes like Alice Cooper's python to > you and squeezes the fun out of listening. > > Some of that fabulous Australian pop music awaits you, so go get it! > Article: 339632 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:32:19 -0700 Message-ID: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> References: >From jak: >To complete the illusion, you might add >some kind of circuit to make it flicker as >well. Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll 'flicker' at 60 cps, 'on' for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle. Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns 'on' at the peak of every half cycle (ie, it flickers 120 times a second). oc Article: 339633 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "RadioGary" Subject: Re: FART....radio! Date: 14 Aug 2006 10:45:59 -0700 Message-ID: <1155577559.829511.38930@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: So considering this radio is antique and somewhat aged, would that make it an OLD FART RADIO? Oh yessssss, thank you GB, you've done it again. Daniele wrote: > And after a couple of years the 'SHITOLA' > appeared on eBay... that's the time for the 'FART', > actually the brand name was F.A.R.T., from Italy. > I'm not related with this item, even if i know him > very well, nice person. > See > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300015398462 > > > -- > Daniele > http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339634 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Soldering techniques References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: <2T2Eg.16375$Nx4.10445@bignews8.bellsouth.net> Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 13:01:51 -0500 GregS wrote: > In article , jakdedert wrote: >> Mike wrote: >>> On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 13:49:46 -0400, "Hagstar" >>> wrote: >>> >>>> "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message >>>> news:3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72... >>>> >>>>> good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint.. >>>>> >>>> That's always nice, but in the early '30s Atwater Kent engineers provided no >>>> eyelet and you simply lay the wire on the pad in a puddle of solder. >>>> >>>> john H. >>>> >>> Sounds like early Surface Mount Technology (heh, heh) >>> >>> It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when >>> soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder. >>> >>> Mike >>> >> Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint. The >> lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to >> speak of. > > There is always mechanical contact when doing PCB's. It may be poor but > surface mount components touch down before soldering. I think the worse case is flat packs and > large thin leaded processors chips, where the leads are very thin and may be the > case where there is not good contact first. > That's another example. In the case of leaded components, melt the solder and there's little if any actual mechanical connection. I've seen devices (Crown power amp) heat up to the point of melting solder. I wonder if the old saw about a secure mechanical joint was just overkill, or if it was simply a backup for a really secure *solder* connection. I suppose it makes a difference that the components are usually suspended in space for P to P wiring.... > greg > Article: 339635 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 13:04:08 -0500 Subject: Re: Soldering techniques From: John Stone Message-ID: References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> On 8/14/06 11:00 AM, in article v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net, "jakdedert" wrote: > Mike wrote: >> >> It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when >> soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder. >> >> Mike >> > Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint. The > lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to > speak of. > Which is exactly why I say all printed circuit boards should be banned and the world should go back to hand wiring. An additional benefit would be that since very few Chinese workers know how to do hand wiring, we could return radio manufacturing (with tubes, of course) back to the US where it belongs. Article: 339636 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS) Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 18:15:20 GMT Message-ID: References: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> In article <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net>, oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) wrote: >From jak: > >>To complete the illusion, you might add >>some kind of circuit to make it flicker as >>well. > >Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll 'flicker' >at 60 cps, 'on' for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle. >Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns 'on' at the peak of every half cycle >(ie, it flickers 120 times a second). > oc I don't think thats the kind of flicker we need. I thinks it s the flicker which changes position. You could change position by using more than one LED. greg Article: 339637 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS) Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 18:19:22 GMT Message-ID: References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> In article , John Stone wrote: > > > >On 8/14/06 11:00 AM, in article v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net, >"jakdedert" wrote: > >> Mike wrote: >>> >>> It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when >>> soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder. >>> >>> Mike >>> >> Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint. The >> lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to >> speak of. >> >Which is exactly why I say all printed circuit boards should be banned and >the world should go back to hand wiring. An additional benefit would be that >since very few Chinese workers know how to do hand wiring, we could return >radio manufacturing (with tubes, of course) back to the US where it belongs. > On a normal board the machine does about everything including inserting components. There may be some things that need manual insertion. greg Article: 339638 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" References: <1155577559.829511.38930@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: FART....radio! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 19:33:27 GMT "RadioGary" > So considering this radio is antique and somewhat aged, would that make > it an > OLD FART RADIO? ...bad caps? ;-) -- Daniele ^___^ http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339639 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Peter Wieck" Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO? Date: 14 Aug 2006 12:45:36 -0700 Message-ID: <1155584736.685919.232800@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: Scott W. Harvey wrote: > Not on this set, and not on another 8G005 that I have in the restoration > queue either. Yes, not on the 8G (nor the 7G as I remember). Now, others have noted "tunable" 60hz sources. But the bottom line is that a longwire antenna will saturate the front-end on that unit as well as pick up every bit of stray rF, stuff that could be rF and any other signal that could come out as hum, buzz and otherwise noise. What you can do: Run that same longwire to a tunable cap, something on the order of the smaller section of a two-section AA5-type cap... that is something from your scrap-box, from that to the same lug as the "waverod" (but disconnect the waverod). Diddle with the tuning on that cap to avoid most of the noise and you should do fine. You may have to experiment with that tunable cap, but something a few pf or so should do. Each section of the band will need a slightly different tuning. Antenna -----> l )/------> radio Of course, be sure to have a knife-switch-to-ground arrangement for the longwire if it is in any way exposed to lightening. And have it in the grounded position when you leave the house. A lightening arrestor is nice and will protect the real-estate, but is unlikely to protect the radio in the case of a strike. Belt, suspenders & Velcro is appropriate in these applications. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Article: 339640 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "toxcrusadr" Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: 14 Aug 2006 13:26:28 -0700 Message-ID: <1155587188.468704.41070@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> Sal Brisindi wrote: > If I think I will create more of a problem trying to remove the > component when there are to many wires going to the lug I just snip the > capacitor off leaving a pigtail a and solder it to the pigtail. Not the > greatest way but it works for me. > > What I have also done is get a pin, or a small allen key, wrap 22/24 > guage wire around it like making a spring but with the coils tightly > wrapped. Then I slid the wire of the new component and the pigtail I > left and solder that. It ain't gonna get loose! If anyone is not sure > what I mean I can take a few photos and post it on the binaries. > > Sal Brisindi I do this with the new capacitor lead itself, make a "pigtail". Bill Turner made a great little tool for this, a wooden dowel with a stiff piece of steel wire sticking out one end. Perfect for putting a pigtail on a component lead before installing it, or on a wire or whatever. Beats the heck out of completely removing the lead from the terminal - just snip out the old component and pigtail a new one to the two wires. Tox Article: 339641 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "RadioGary" Subject: Re: FART....radio! Date: 14 Aug 2006 13:28:35 -0700 Message-ID: <1155587315.341804.273150@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: Bad chili. Daniele wrote: > "RadioGary" > > > So considering this radio is antique and somewhat aged, would that make > > it an > > OLD FART RADIO? > > ...bad caps? ;-) > > -- > Daniele ^___^ > http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339642 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: Please help *PLEASE PUT ME ON YOUR EMAIL LIST* Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 13:18:40 -0700 Message-ID: <4jm1e2pp4vncaf84ihkiu498h0lh32q11q@4ax.com> References: <451515581406@news-server.austin.rr.com> On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:32:53 GMT, ray@austin.com (ray...i need to pay my bill and it works) wrote: Forward entire message including header to: abuse@rr.com ...with [SPAM] in the subject line. Due to RoadRunner's poor reputation on blacklists, they're now booting Usenet spammers with great zeal. Article: 339643 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: (De)soldering techniques Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 13:16:24 -0700 Message-ID: <6gm1e29qq0ulk7qo2tcctnch63srjffjt1@4ax.com> References: <1155300902.787861.183610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <7063-44DC8A61-25@storefull-3174.bay.webtv.net> <1155305783.869268.287580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <44DF83C4.49FF1234@earthlink.net> On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:56:01 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote: >James Sweet wrote: >> >> It works a lot better on some things than others but the trick is to dip >> it in liquid flux before using. The flux that comes on it dries out over >> time and it doesn't work very well. > > > It doesn't "Dry out". It is lost due to handling. It breaks away as >a fine dust. the more you handle it, the quicker there isn't enough >flux left to do the job. > > > > Adding some fresh solder to the >> joint before desoldering, while counterintuitive, works well. > > > Its NOT counterintuitive. The fresh solder lifts of the oxidized >surface of the old solder which makes it easier to wick solder off the >joint. Terrell's right on both counts. Article: 339644 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 14 Aug 2006 13:57:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1155589060.280485.132140@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> It crackles only when I turn the volume control, but I'm looking at a valve radio in the UK. Thinking of bidding on it. It ships to worldwide. So I'll only use my Calstan radio occasionally, so I probably leave it as it is. Thanks for all your help. This will be the place I will go to help if I do get this new radio. Theres a fantastic Philetta Up For auction by the way http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Vintage-Philips-Philetta-Plastic-Radio-127-or-220-V_W0QQitemZ170018848521QQihZ007QQcategoryZ38035QQssPageNameZWD2VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I was gonna bid on it, but I thought someone whos knows a lot more about old radios can enjoy it more. I don't want something like that just to learn on! Article: 339645 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: robert casey Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155442489.853218.311050@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155448463.626136.218300@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155453725.474288.280800@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155453918.679954.96860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155457765.211438.125640@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155459924.899348.199570@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155471608.033953.320580@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155474088.221218.117600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155589060.280485.132140@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 21:10:38 GMT Dave.H wrote: > It crackles only when I turn the volume control That's a dirty volume control. Not the speaker. DId you get the radio able to receive more than two stations again? You mentioned that you had an accident that disconnected a white? wire, and after that you could only get two stations. Did that wire go to the ferrite rod antenna? I don't have access to my set right now, it's sitting in storage about 3 megameters from here. Article: 339646 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Rick Fears Subject: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT) Date: 14 Aug 2006 21:01:44 GMT Message-ID: This may be the wrong group, if so please forgive (I read the FAQ posted recently, and the associated flames, so appreciate some of the local sensitivities). I have recently come across the wooden part of a Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola. This has a lifetable top in which there is what was obviously the base for a turntable fo some kind. Below there are two LP sized cupboards with between them a sort of louvered arrangement (about 6 vertical slats) which I assume has something to do with letting the sound out? I'm interested to find out what this piece was, whether it can be restored (e.g. by finding the appropriate gramophone mechanism), etc. Any help (including a pointer to another more appropriate newsgroup if necessary) most gratefully received Regards Rick. From adouglasatgis.net Thu Aug 17 01:52:39 EDT 2006 Article: 339647 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:01:13 -0400 Organization: NewsGuy - Unlimited Usenet $19.95 Lines: 17 Message-ID: <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p-530.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news.unc.edu!elk.ncren.net!canoe.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newspeer1.nwr.nac.net!newspeer.monmouth.com!pln-e!spln!dex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news4 Xref: news0.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:339647 Hi >This spool seems rather large. I've never rewound a G-2, but someone posted on the net a while back that a G-3 took 3 lbs of wire, and a 130-A speaker took 4 lbs. You'll have to buy a 10 lb spool. $$$ You'll need to find the gauge. Take a piece of the old wire, heat it in a match flame to red, to burn off the enamel, and mike it to a couple of ten-thousandths to get the diameter. There's no guarantee that it will be a standard gauge however, and I couldn't tell you offhand if you want to go half a size larger or smaller. You might have to measure the enamel thickness to decide that, and compare with the thickness of whatever modern wire you choose. Alan Article: 339648 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 21:24:56 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> <2T2Eg.16375$Nx4.10445@bignews8.bellsouth.net> In <2T2Eg.16375$Nx4.10445@bignews8.bellsouth.net> jakdedert writes: >That's another example. In the case of leaded components, melt the >solder and there's little if any actual mechanical connection. I've >seen devices (Crown power amp) heat up to the point of melting solder. >I wonder if the old saw about a secure mechanical joint was just >overkill, or if it was simply a backup for a really secure *solder* >connection. I suppose it makes a difference that the components are >usually suspended in space for P to P wiring.... While I tend to side with the "secure mechanical connection" crowd in this discussion, I like to wrap leads for an entirely different reason -- it keeps the bloody thing in place when soldering! If both ends of a component are free, or you're soldering something with a spring force, how many times have you had the damn thing slip off just as you got the joint nice and hot and ready to accept solder? If you make a good mechanical wrap you avoid needing a third hand or some type of clamp. For the same reason I'll bend PCB component leads at a sharp angle right where they exit the thru hole before turing the board upside down to solder. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339649 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44E0ED63.F04BB0DB@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Soldering techniques References: <44DF8520.49E0E86C@earthlink.net> <10418-44E07FA7-166@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net> Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 21:39:10 GMT "Ken G." wrote: > > so that thermal cycling doesn't separate the tin plating from the steel > component leads. > > That might happen once in 50 years . Maybe for you, but I've seen thousands in the last 40 years. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 339650 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "George Conklin" References: Subject: Re: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT) Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 21:46:19 GMT "Rick Fears" wrote in message news:Xns981FE01AE8E05rfwplighting@129.250.170.90... > This may be the wrong group, if so please forgive (I read the FAQ posted > recently, and the associated flames, so appreciate some of the local > sensitivities). > > I have recently come across the wooden part of a Columbia Viva-tonal > grafonola. This has a lifetable top in which there is what was obviously > the base for a turntable fo some kind. Below there are two LP sized > cupboards with between them a sort of louvered arrangement (about 6 > vertical slats) which I assume has something to do with letting the sound > out? > > I'm interested to find out what this piece was, whether it can be > restored (e.g. by finding the appropriate gramophone mechanism), etc. > > Any help (including a pointer to another more appropriate newsgroup if > necessary) most gratefully received > > Regards > > Rick. > There are books on Columbia phonographs complete with pictures. If the works are missing, it probably has no particular value in today's market. The book you need for pictures is by Robert Baumbach entitled "Columbia Phonograph Compasion, Volume II: The Columbia Disc Graphophone and the Grafonola. 1996. Stationary X-Press, PO Box 207, Woodland Hills, CA 91364. Many of the Grafonolas had pretty good record storage, so from your description it would be hard to say which model you might have the case for. Hope this helps. George Conklin Article: 339651 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 14 Aug 2006 15:08:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1155593320.358871.166770@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> The wire went to a point below the ferrite bar, but before I disconnected the wire it only received three which is what it receives now. On another radio-related topic, what year was the PYE R37 manufactured. I have the chance to get one of these from the UK. I don't really care how it performs, I just want to learn more about vintage electronics and hopefully try to restore this radio if I do get it. Looks to be late '50's to me. Article: 339652 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" Subject: ID needed Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 22:08:45 GMT A cathedral and a tombstone coming from the same lot of the wire spools. The cathedral is branded AIRKING, no model nr, made in Spain, the tombstone is branded BALJ or something like BALS tags on front point to Portugal. I'm wondering if they could be US sets made under license.. it would be great to find schematics. http://www.junkradios.com/public/id.htm -- Daniele http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339653 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 14 Aug 2006 15:10:38 -0700 Message-ID: <1155593438.927041.29440@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> The wire was white with a green wire connected to that Article: 339654 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 14 Aug 2006 15:11:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1155593500.138616.64640@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> The white wire still has about 4 inches left. Not sure what I did with the rest. Article: 339655 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: Subject: Re: ID needed Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 18:21:36 -0400 "Daniele" wrote in message news:Nv6Eg.71830$zy5.1316518@twister1.libero.it... >A cathedral and a tombstone coming from the same lot > of the wire spools. > The cathedral is branded AIRKING, no model nr, made in Spain, > the tombstone is branded BALJ or something like BALS tags on front > point to Portugal. > I'm wondering if they could be US sets made under license.. > it would be great to find schematics. > http://www.junkradios.com/public/id.htm > > -- > Daniele > http://www.tuberadio.it The AirKing doesn't look right. The dial looks strange. Airplane dial with a cathedral looks pretty out of place. Syl Article: 339656 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Please help *PLEASE PUT ME ON YOUR EMAIL LIST* HAHA Date: 14 Aug 2006 16:00:55 -0700 Message-ID: <1155596455.289908.106850@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <451515581406@news-server.austin.rr.com> Gee, I wonder why? Sounds kinda harsh, huh? Article: 339657 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Applications where tubes are still king?? Date: 14 Aug 2006 16:47:05 -0700 Message-ID: <1155599225.216156.228590@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1154980972.462384.103210@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> jakdedert wrote: > James Sweet wrote: > > > >> > >> > >> The operating costs for the tube version more than offsets the > >> difference in purchase price, and the smaller number of tube > >> transmitters has narrowed the gap considerably. You use less > >> electricity for a solid state transmitter, that means less is used for > >> air conditioning. The transmitter is smaller, and requires less > >> maintenance over its life. That maintenance can be done by less skilled > >> staff, and it is rare that the transmitter would go down completely, > >> reducing the number of make goods on advertising. You can continue to > >> run the transmitter with a single bad output module while it is repair > >> locally, or at the factory. If you need a backup generator and switch > >> gear it will be cheaper, as well. Thales and Harris are the only two > >> manufacturers I'm still familiar with. Thales bought Comark, which made > >> the last big transmitter I worked on. All solid state, except the > >> Klystrons, and it was delivered a week before the Klystrodes hit the > >> market. It uses three 65 KW Klystrons, two Visual, and one Aural. It > >> cost over $45,000 to rebuild one of the Klystrons in 1990. > >> > > > > > > > > That may well be true, but it doesn't change the fact that many people > > still shop strictly by price. Look at how many people still use 25 cent > > incandescent lightbulbs despite the fact that a $3 compact fluorescent > > will more than pay for itself in electricity savings, or who will buy a > > $99 Wal-Mart special TV instead of paying $150 to get their older high > > end Sony repaired. > > > Unfortunately, the $99 Walmart will probably have desirable features > unavailable on the ten year old Sony. Even though ten years life is a > pipe dream for the WM special, in a decade, the HD will likely have > finally taken off, so even the WM set will be obsolete if it still works > at all. > > The light bulb example doesn't work either, as incandescents are better > at some things than CFL's. The color temp is more agreeable to many. > They fire up to full brightness immediately. They can be used outdoors. > They can be dimmed reliably...and speaking of reliability, that's a > factor as well. There is nothing quite so disheartening than to spend > several times extra for a supposedly 'long life' product, only to find > it didn't last any longer than the standard product it was supposed to > replace. > > I think the LED is a much better technology, with more potential for > eventually replacing the heated wire as a source of light. > > jak I got news to break here concerning your televisions... I've got FIVE Trinitrons, three built 1980 or before. Three 19" and two 12" One 19" (1981?) had a fall but seems like the tuner is about the only broken part. My KV-1923 has a beautiful CRT but the aspect (size) shrinks and blooms a little--it's going in for work too. My KV-1212 is a old knob set that says it conforms to DHEW standards and 42CFR...shrink and bloom is a bit worse. It has two 1/8" mono headphone jacks. That leaves a KV-1957R in champagne (cam type tuning presets and remote controllable) KV-1214 Econoquick chassis 14 wheel-set channels, grille torn up but feed it a strong signal and the tuning and picture are great...no remote I think it would be cheaper to fix the five Sonys, and I got them for less than $60.00! All but the dropped one are displaying color fidelity and such that rival a new set, and I believe all of them will be restored to full operation soon. I've seen other 19" Trinitrons of pre-1984 vintage for 20-30 dollars that run as good or better around here. I wouldn't go to Wal-Mart except to buy pop and nachos. Article: 339658 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID Date: 14 Aug 2006 17:01:49 -0700 Message-ID: <1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> I have a bid on the Sencore SG-165 offered by "travman100" that was previously part of a lot that became a topic of debate. Those of you who wanted parts but were hesitant to split a lot may now find all or most of the parts listed singly. If you have problems with PayPal, ask nicely, as I believe he is willing to help. I will probably NOT bid on the Leader scope and instead I will look for a more capable model next month. Steven/bidding as "asynchrousman" Article: 339659 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: norml Subject: Re: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT) Message-ID: References: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 00:20:44 GMT "Viva-Tonal" was Columbia's answer to Victor's "Orthophonic" Victrolas. I have a huge, heavy, console version. It is a crude ripoff off the Victor "Credenza." The point of both machines was Western Electric's matched-impedance theory applied to mechanical reproducers for the purpose of reproducing the new electrical records economically. (Electronic phonos were prohibitively expensive for the first several years.) Norm Lehfeldt Rick Fears wrotf: >This may be the wrong group, if so please forgive (I read the FAQ posted >recently, and the associated flames, so appreciate some of the local >sensitivities). > >I have recently come across the wooden part of a Columbia Viva-tonal >grafonola. This has a lifetable top in which there is what was obviously >the base for a turntable fo some kind. Below there are two LP sized >cupboards with between them a sort of louvered arrangement (about 6 >vertical slats) which I assume has something to do with letting the sound >out? > >I'm interested to find out what this piece was, whether it can be >restored (e.g. by finding the appropriate gramophone mechanism), etc. > >Any help (including a pointer to another more appropriate newsgroup if >necessary) most gratefully received > >Regards > >Rick. Article: 339660 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Zenith Transistor Radio History From: "Jim Barnard" Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 20:23:29 -0400 Message-ID: For those who enjoy Zenith transistor radio history, Dwight Poppy, the engineer who designed the IF section for the wonderful Royal 500H has contributed some information about his work at Zenith. You can read his comments at www.transistor-repairs.com under the HISTORY menu selection. -- Jim Barnard www.transistor-repairs.com Specializing in Zenith Transistor Radio Repair/Restoration Article: 339661 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1154556273.855282.81140@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1154596293.127423.234110@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1154602427.506876.102850@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1154638284.566159.11910@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1154661884.091321.122590@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1154804668.336890.260530@n13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1154827349.198320.44090@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1154993429.114318.155650@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 00:34:57 GMT "Steven" wrote in message news:1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > I have a bid on the Sencore SG-165 offered by "travman100" that was > previously part of a lot that became a topic of debate. Those of you > who wanted parts but were hesitant to split a lot may now find all or > most of the parts listed singly. > > If you have problems with PayPal, ask nicely, as I believe he is > willing to help. > > I will probably NOT bid on the Leader scope and instead I will look for > a more capable model next month. > > Steven/bidding as "asynchrousman" > He'll need to learn a little more about shipping. He is charging the same flat $30 shipping for the 5-lb. all the way up to 30-lb. items. http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZtravman100QQhtZ-1 jim menning Article: 339662 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net> Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 20:39:57 -0400 From: Aaron Hunter Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Paul Good looking radio! According to my information, "Plant A" was for Clinton. A "C" preceeding the serial number was for Corona Radio & Telev. Corp of Chicago, Ill. Is there a "25" or some letter preceeding the serial number? Mark suggested "Imperial". There are pictures of Imperials in Stein's "Pre-War Consoles" that are close but not exact to your set. The grill and dial resemble yours. None pictured had 11 tubes. Imperial was manufactured by Belmont Radio Corp of Chicago, Ill. Names used by Belmont were "Belmont", "Classique", "Crusader", "Goodyear Wings", "Freshman", "Imperial", "Starck Classique", "Truetone", and "Wings". I checked the Belmont listings in Mallory and there were no tube line-ups like yours. Aaron Paul Dietenberger wrote: > I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though. > > This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by > Clinton. Looks like this: > http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg > 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder failed > to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be there under > some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the inside of the > cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) and doesn't > photograph well. > > Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80. > > Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is on > it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent maker-style > nail-on tags. > > Thanks > paul > > > Article: 339663 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Zenith Transistor Radio History Date: 14 Aug 2006 17:54:22 -0700 Message-ID: <1155603262.676599.249770@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: Jim Barnard wrote: > For those who enjoy Zenith transistor radio history, Dwight Poppy, the > engineer who designed the IF section for the wonderful Royal 500H has > contributed some information about his work at Zenith. You can read his > comments at www.transistor-repairs.com under the HISTORY menu selection. > > > -- > Jim Barnard > www.transistor-repairs.com > Specializing in Zenith Transistor > Radio Repair/Restoration Polish my memory banks if you might... I have a Royal 880 and it uses 6 C cells. If the set has enough charge to run AM, does it necessarily mean the FM will work or will it go first? I ask because we had a massive blackout the other day after a huge storm (up to 80 mph) just toward sunset, and numerous lines and trees and poles went down leaving the corridor from Halfway, Oregon to southeastern Idaho blacked out and later into Boise. The 880 with 6-8 month old but usable cells was all I had while trying to fumble for AA cells (and only finding those lovely AAAs), I had no D cells for the Craftsmen and my pocket AM set seems to have some trouble receiving very well from Boise if KSRV and it's 107 dBu strength next door are OFF THE AIR TOO. I guess to make things worse for a short while, after KBOI gave the EAS storm warning for their area, nobody was there with brains to gather the news that over half their audience was blacked out and maybe looking for news about it, and Clear Channel was out to lunch too as they went back to Hannity and other yackfests. I was using a rotary telephone and looking for the touchtone desk phone to offer it to the neighbor who is disabled also and only has cordless when the power came back finally, but I had wondered if I would even be able to use the grocery store that night to get batteries. I got the AAs because my other sets were economical enough not to spend a billion on alkalines and $1 Panasonics or Evereadies at the dollar store were a much better deal. I'm already changing the bands and stations with needlenose pliers because the concentric knobs are broke/bandswitch gone, but I like the set and want to use it more often. Article: 339664 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "William Sommerwerck" References: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:59:07 -0700 Message-ID: > Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll "flicker" > at 60 cps, "on" for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle. > Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns "on" at the peak of every half > cycle (ie, it flickers 120 times a second). Then use a full-wave rectifier to drive the LEDs. Actually, a neon bulb comes on when theres about 60V to 70V across it. The series resistor keeps it from being damaged. Article: 339665 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID Date: 14 Aug 2006 18:05:27 -0700 Message-ID: <1155603927.281524.94500@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> jim menning wrote: > "Steven" wrote in message > news:1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > > > I have a bid on the Sencore SG-165 offered by "travman100" that was > > previously part of a lot that became a topic of debate. Those of you > > who wanted parts but were hesitant to split a lot may now find all or > > most of the parts listed singly. > > > > If you have problems with PayPal, ask nicely, as I believe he is > > willing to help. > > > > I will probably NOT bid on the Leader scope and instead I will look for > > a more capable model next month. > > > > Steven/bidding as "asynchrousman" > > > > He'll need to learn a little more about shipping. He is charging the same flat $30 > shipping for the 5-lb. all the way up to 30-lb. items. I don't care. If I win he's being flexible enough to help me get it. He's also rewrote this puppy every which way but loose and closed auctions trying to accomodate you all. Those of you that want should get and no more nitpicking, that's pushing the envelope for a guy that ate two listings and may not even recover his fees. Considering the apparent quality of the items AND that the aforementioned Sencore just went for over 92 dollars plus 27 shipping in another auction only a few days ago, you asked for it, you got it, no TOYOTA. You said he was crazy, he listened, now he's not per your definitions. Please don't jinx my efforts, and I'll thank you kindly. > http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZtravman100QQhtZ-1 > > jim menning Article: 339666 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Robert Sherrod Subject: Hallicrafters S120... Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 01:12:19 GMT Hello everyone, I am completing work on a Hallicrafters S120 and have a few questions. I am planning on installing a fuse and need to determine what current rating to install. I have measured the current draw of the receiver and it is 0.19 A and peaks at 0.21 A if turned off and back on when warmed up. Given that this S120 will be given to the granddaughter of the individual who is having it restored, the latter may become a common occurance. Please advise on the proper current rating given the information provided. Also, can the fuse be installed after the power switch but before the rectifier? Given the layout under the chassis, placing the fuse after the switch is more convenient and will not require additional wiring. Please advise if this is incorrect and/or unsafe. I have placed a portion of the schematic on the binaries in regards to the following. I have replaced capacitor C30 with a 0.01 mF AC rated capacitor based on information found in rar+p archives in Google groups. I am wondering if capacitor C29 also should be replaced with an AC rated capacitor and what purpose does this capacitor and the paralled resistor serve? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bobby KC9IHK Article: 339667 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: ken scharf Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED References: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 22:02:22 -0400 William Sommerwerck wrote: >> Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll "flicker" >> at 60 cps, "on" for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle. >> Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns "on" at the peak of every half >> cycle (ie, it flickers 120 times a second). > > Then use a full-wave rectifier to drive the LEDs. > > Actually, a neon bulb comes on when theres about 60V to 70V across it. The > series resistor keeps it from being damaged. > > Actually what's wrong with just using a neon bulb? NE-2's are cheap and easy to find. You can build a dc-ac inverter to get the needed 90v from a 5-12v supply. Article: 339668 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: pgonshor@aol.com Subject: Philco 610 Date: 14 Aug 2006 19:49:49 -0700 Message-ID: <1155610189.034416.261290@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Working on a Philco 610. 5 tube circuit (predessor of the AA5 I guess). 3 bands. Great performance. Nothing beats good coils. Trouble is, coils didn't sell radios, tube count did. I've had sets like this that performed better than 9 tube radios. Comments? Dave Article: 339669 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 22:57:23 -0400 Message-ID: <12e2e0prnu67af1@corp.supernews.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message news:JTZDg.896292$084.414601@attbi_s22... >> > If you have a local shop that repairs motors... they will have > the wire you need.. I buy magnet wire cheaply on eBay too sometimes, or at hamfests. John H. Article: 339670 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S120... Date: 14 Aug 2006 20:08:27 -0700 Message-ID: <1155611307.023919.326830@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: Bobby, it would be fine to put the fuse after the power switch as long as the wire between the line cord and the switch [probably a line cord wire] is adequately insulated. If it makes you more comfortable, then replace those two caps with AC rated parts, but make sure their leads are well spaced from any metal parts. C29 is the RF bypass betweeen the 'common' and the case [with R18 as the static bleed] and R30 is the RF bypass across the input line. Being close to the rectifier diode may also help to reduce rectifier noise, but it could also make it worse. A 1000pF 1kV ceramic in series with about 33 ohms connected across a silicon diode will help suppress rectifier noise if it is a problem. For your fuse, you have 150mA for the filaments, IIRC, and about 50-70mA B+. The worst surge will be cold turn on since the filaments will draw a fair slug, but the glo-bar helps a lot there. You will get a charging pulse through the rectifier in both cases, but also B+ on a hot turn on. Since the B+ is via a half wave rectifier, your meter will not measure that current accurately unless it is a true RMS type, and the pluse nature of the charge current is somewhat difficult to translate to fuse heating effect. I would tend to use a 1/4A slow blow that will carry just over the normal current including the pulse effect, yet offer some protection from failures of tubes and caps. The slow blow will withstand the turn on surges, but, perhaps, not a repetitious on/off/on/off cycling without having the oppotunity to cool. To be sure you might want to go to 3/8A, but your component protection will be much impared. Either will be excellent for fire protection [the main purpose of a fuse]. Neil S. Robert Sherrod wrote: > Hello everyone, > > I am completing work on a Hallicrafters S120 and have a few questions. > > I am planning on installing a fuse and need to determine what current > rating to install. I have measured the current draw of the receiver and > it is 0.19 A and peaks at 0.21 A if turned off and back on when warmed > up. Given that this S120 will be given to the granddaughter of the > individual who is having it restored, the latter may become a common > occurance. Please advise on the proper current rating given the > information provided. > > Also, can the fuse be installed after the power switch but before the > rectifier? Given the layout under the chassis, placing the fuse after > the switch is more convenient and will not require additional wiring. > Please advise if this is incorrect and/or unsafe. > > I have placed a portion of the schematic on the binaries in regards to > the following. I have replaced capacitor C30 with a 0.01 mF AC rated > capacitor based on information found in rar+p archives in Google groups. > I am wondering if capacitor C29 also should be replaced with an AC rated > capacitor and what purpose does this capacitor and the paralled resistor > serve? > > Any help would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Bobby > KC9IHK Article: 339671 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" Subject: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 23:58:11 -0400 No model, brand or label anywhere. Steel cabinet. There is something handwritten on the speaker OPT, "watterson". Hard to tell if it bears any relation to the radio. Simple octal AA5 using a field coil speaker with the number 700 stamped on the back. Reminds me of an Emerson speaker or a Philco. http://www.oldradioz.com/temp/coin_radio.jpg Any help IDing the model and/or actual manufacturer would be welcome. Syl P.S. I did search Watterson, but nothing about coin operated radios. Article: 339672 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 14 Aug 2006 21:40:31 -0700 Message-ID: <1155616831.353609.131240@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> No, I want an Australian radio, this has caught my eye, http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BAKELITE-KREISLER-VALVE-RADIO-WORKING-1940S_W0QQitemZ230016326750QQihZ013QQcategoryZ364QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem >From 1947-49 I believe. Thanks for your answer, Martin Article: 339673 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Philco 610 Date: 14 Aug 2006 22:11:48 -0700 Message-ID: <1155618708.642450.175650@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155610189.034416.261290@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> pgonshor@aol.com wrote: > Working on a Philco 610. 5 tube circuit (predessor of the AA5 I > guess). 3 bands. Great performance. Nothing beats good coils. > Trouble is, coils didn't sell radios, tube count did. I've had sets > like this that performed better than 9 tube radios. Comments? > Dave My 38-12 has 5 full-sized tubes and one band and my Hallicrafters S-118 has 5 and 5 bands as I recall... While it's partly true a 9-tuber might be better than a fiver, remember that tubes were always a major purchase and if you can get five to do the work of nine, within limits and budget concerns, and it sounds good to Jackie and Joe Polka, you've sold a radio! Oh sure, the hi-fi hotrodders out there can afford more expensive beer--sets, I mean and they've always been there in some number, but 5 is the right number it seems. 5 of the right tubes could do it, at least before FM. Since I've heard that number before as a suffix in the Philco system, is the an actual 610 or an XX-610? I kinda thought it's a 1938 or 1941. I should go look I guess. Article: 339674 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 14 Aug 2006 22:15:24 -0700 Message-ID: <1155618924.707821.98240@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155453918.679954.96860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > No, I want an Australian radio, this has caught my eye, > http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BAKELITE-KREISLER-VALVE-RADIO-WORKING-1940S_W0QQitemZ230016326750QQihZ013QQcategoryZ364QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > >From 1947-49 I believe. Thanks for your answer, Martin I haven't looked yet, but it sounds like a nice set, being a Kreisler (I'm not kidding either, they are kinda neat). Article: 339675 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 14 Aug 2006 23:29:26 -0700 Message-ID: <1155623366.698998.44020@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155453918.679954.96860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> It's cool. AM and shortwave from 50-16 meters. I wanted a valve shortwave receiver. I'm only a casual shortwave listener so it will do me. For more info on this set go to http://www.shlrc.mq.edu.au/~robinson/museum/kriesler.html I'm definitely gonna get my father to bid on it (I'm only 16, too young to actually have a credit card or bank account, but I will pay for the radio, just get him to do the bidding). Article: 339676 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> <44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net> Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 01:52:05 -0500 Message-ID: <44e161cd$0$21014$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> "Aaron Hunter" wrote in message news:44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net... Thanks much, I appreciate it. The serial number is 313022 with no letter or number prefixes. It's otherwise just marked "Plant C Chicago" and a typewritten note stating that due to the set's extreme sensitivity that the user is not to use an antenna longer than 30 feet with it. :-) I'm sure it's not a Belmont, I don't think they were plant C and the look of both the set and the schematic pasted inside are all wrong for Belmont. Here's a partial picture of the schematic in the cabinet. Does the look-and-feel and character styling ring a bell with anyone? http://personalpages.tds.net/~pdieten/plantc.jpg I'd like to avoid having to hand-redraw this thing to have something to work off of and keep in my files. I can't get a good picture inside the cabinet. Cheers, paul > Paul > > Good looking radio! > > According to my information, "Plant A" was for Clinton. A "C" preceeding > the serial number was for Corona Radio & Telev. Corp of Chicago, Ill. Is > there a "25" or some letter preceeding the serial number? > > Mark suggested "Imperial". There are pictures of Imperials in Stein's > "Pre-War Consoles" that are close but not exact to your set. The grill > and dial resemble yours. None pictured had 11 tubes. > > Imperial was manufactured by Belmont Radio Corp of Chicago, Ill. Names > used by Belmont were "Belmont", "Classique", "Crusader", "Goodyear Wings", > "Freshman", "Imperial", "Starck Classique", "Truetone", and "Wings". > > I checked the Belmont listings in Mallory and there were no tube line-ups > like yours. > > Aaron > > Paul Dietenberger wrote: >> I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though. >> >> This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by >> Clinton. Looks like this: >> http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg >> 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder >> failed to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be >> there under some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the >> inside of the cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) >> and doesn't photograph well. >> >> Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80. >> >> Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is >> on it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent >> maker-style nail-on tags. >> >> Thanks >> paul > -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Article: 339677 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 03:54:24 -0400 From: Tom Adkins Subject: Re: Philco 610 References: <1155610189.034416.261290@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155618708.642450.175650@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <6qKdnX6YH7c04XzZnZ2dnUVZ_tSdnZ2d@comcast.com> Steven wrote: > >>Working on a Philco 610. 5 tube circuit (predessor of the AA5 I >>guess). 3 bands. Great performance. Nothing beats good coils. >>Trouble is, coils didn't sell radios, tube count did. I've had sets >>like this that performed better than 9 tube radios. Comments? >>Dave > > Since I've heard that number before as a suffix in the Philco system, > is the an actual 610 or an XX-610? I kinda thought it's a 1938 or 1941. > I should go look I guess. > Philco started the xx-yyy model format in 1937. The 610 was a '35 or '36 set(oval escutcheon). There was also a 37-610 that was essentially the same chassis (Round escutcheon). The 37-610 also had photo finish on the tombstone cabinet, the 610 did not. Article: 339678 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "gerryu21220@gmail.com" Subject: Re: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT) Date: 15 Aug 2006 03:55:58 -0700 Message-ID: <1155639358.064138.235100@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: Rick Fears wrote: > I have recently come across the wooden part of a Columbia Viva-tonal > grafonola. This has a lifetable top in which there is what was obviously > the base for a turntable fo some kind. Below there are two LP sized > cupboards with between them a sort of louvered arrangement (about 6 > vertical slats) which I assume has something to do with letting the sound > out? I have no idea what you mean by a "lifetable top". Your description sounds more like it's just a record cabinet base to go with a tabletop machine... Is there a hinged lid, underneath which is a panel with various holes in it? If so, then yes - the louvered section is the internal horn. Gerry Article: 339679 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: My First Valve (tube) Radio Date: 15 Aug 2006 04:55:42 -0700 Message-ID: <1155642941.462432.105040@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> Still not sure what radio I want! I am definitely gonna get a valve (tube) radio. So many good ones out there you want them all! This on'es by far the nicest though. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VINTAGE-OPERATIC-WOODEN-CASE-VALVE-RADIO_W0QQitemZ300015608962QQihZ020QQcategoryZ933QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem What year would this be from? I'm guessing late '30's early '40's. Definitely pre-war. Does it have shortwave? Article: 339680 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 08:32:30 -0400 Message-ID: <12e3fngderref66@corp.supernews.com> References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155448463.626136.218300@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155453725.474288.280800@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155453918.679954.96860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155457765.211438.125640@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155459924.899348.199570@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155471608.033953.320580@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155474088.221218.117600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155589060.280485.132140@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Blackened Transistors- serves 8 2 cups germanium transistors (NOT metal cased!) 1/2 cup chopped scallions 1/4 cup pine nuts 2 tsp. olive oil 2 cups coarsely chopped PVC spaghetti (use different colors to add contrast) Heat the oil until smoking in a cast iron skillet, add transistors and cook until well carbonized at medium heat. Add the balance of the ingredients except the spaghetti and reduce heat to medium, stir for 7-9 min. until transistor casings smell "cooked". Serve over PVC spaghetti with a side of "Selenium Tortillas". Article: 339681 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "the MAGNATE" Subject: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 15 Aug 2006 05:40:58 -0700 Message-ID: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> http://i7.tinypic.com/24o4tbl.jpg I recently ran across these at an acquaintance's home- he was moving and had these stored there, and didn't have the space at his new apartment for them. I ended up getting these speakers and a huge Kenwood amp for $50 lot price. Does anyone know what vintage they are ? They have a JVC logo on them. They have one large 12" woofer, 2 mids, 2 tweeters, and one tiny piezo tweeter- also (2) adjustable crossovers for mid and high, and (2) bass ports. I gave them a good 3 hour test run last weekend- imaging with my SEP tube amp was amazing. Are they worth anything ? They also have removeable front grills with wooden lattice design. thanks in advance ! Article: 339682 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Terry S" Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID Date: 15 Aug 2006 05:48:49 -0700 Message-ID: <1155646129.530241.222500@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> But why have you placed SOOOO many bids on that item when you were already the high bidder? Steven wrote: > jim menning wrote: > > "Steven" wrote in message > > news:1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > > > > > I have a bid on the Sencore SG-165 offered by "travman100" that was > > > previously part of a lot that became a topic of debate. Those of you > > > who wanted parts but were hesitant to split a lot may now find all or > > > most of the parts listed singly. > > > > > > If you have problems with PayPal, ask nicely, as I believe he is > > > willing to help. > > > > > > I will probably NOT bid on the Leader scope and instead I will look for > > > a more capable model next month. > > > > > > Steven/bidding as "asynchrousman" > > > > > > > He'll need to learn a little more about shipping. He is charging the same flat $30 > > shipping for the 5-lb. all the way up to 30-lb. items. > > I don't care. If I win he's being flexible enough to help me get it. > He's also rewrote this puppy every which way but loose and closed > auctions trying to accomodate you all. Those of you that want should > get and no more nitpicking, that's pushing the envelope for a guy that > ate two listings and may not even recover his fees. > > Considering the apparent quality of the items AND that the > aforementioned Sencore just went for over 92 dollars plus 27 shipping > in another auction only a few days ago, you asked for it, you got it, > no TOYOTA. You said he was crazy, he listened, now he's not per your > definitions. > > Please don't jinx my efforts, and I'll thank you kindly. > > > > http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZtravman100QQhtZ-1 > > > > jim menning Article: 339683 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave McClellan" References: Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Message-ID: <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga> Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 08:45:20 -0400 I had one like that which was branded "Tradio". "Syl" wrote in message news:vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net... > No model, brand or label anywhere. > > Steel cabinet. > > There is something handwritten on the speaker OPT, "watterson". > Hard to tell if it bears any relation to the radio. Simple octal AA5 using a > field coil speaker with the number 700 stamped on the back. > Reminds me of an Emerson speaker or a Philco. > > http://www.oldradioz.com/temp/coin_radio.jpg > > Any help IDing the model and/or actual manufacturer would be welcome. > > Syl > P.S. I did search Watterson, but nothing about coin operated radios. > > Article: 339684 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio References: Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 13:15:55 GMT Syl wrote: > No model, brand or label anywhere. > > Steel cabinet. Man, that's hideous. I wouldn't put my name on it either. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 339685 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" Subject: Re: BOLLINGBROOK REPORT Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:29:44 -0400 Message-ID: <12e3j27391ccb52@news.supernews.com> References: <1154827232.039297.157030@n13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <44d55e08$0$22459$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> "Art's Antique Radios" wrote in message news:x4KdnYaPsYRqVkjZnZ2dnUVZ_u6dnZ2d@comcast.com... > Well here is the official reports (sort of....) > For me personally, sold all of my 30,000 tubes, saw a lot of friends, and > had a great time. I purchased some AK advertising, a Zenith 9S30 and a > great porcelain Zenith pre-war sign. Just lost out on a Zenith 805. > Art, was that number correct, you sold 30,000 tubes? That sounds like a boxcar load! I'm betting it wasn't all sold in onesies and twosies, right? Article: 339686 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Philco 610 Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 07:29:00 -0600 Message-ID: <1467-44E1CC1C-805@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> References: <1155610189.034416.261290@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> I have found the same thing even after the high tube radio is aligned properly . Article: 339687 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:37:30 -0400 Message-ID: <12e3jgp16ge8t06@news.supernews.com> References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> <44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net> <44e161cd$0$21014$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> "Paul Dietenberger" wrote in message news:44e161cd$0$21014$88260bb3@free.teranews.com... > I'd like to avoid having to hand-redraw this thing to have something to > work off of and keep in my files. I can't get a good picture inside the > cabinet. > > Cheers, > paul Try it without a flash, out of doors (in sunlight). Or, perhaps try to illuminate the diagram with a flashlight, again shot without the flash. Article: 339688 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: ID needed Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 07:39:38 -0600 Message-ID: <1468-44E1CE9A-218@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> References: I am not familiar with foreign radios but have seen some strange designs That dial looks like it came from an Airline table radio . Notice how the dial frame covers at the top over some routed lines . Article: 339689 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Where is the CHRS web site? Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 06:43:11 -0700 Message-ID: References: Sofa Slug wrote: > The California Historical Radio Society's website appears to have been > down for the past several days....anyone know when it's coming back? The webmaster for that site is Mike Adams. He can be reached at adams@email.sjsu.edu Something is amiss....A couple of days ago it was completely down. Now, it's accessable but all you get is a "forbidden" error message. -Scott Article: 339690 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID Date: 15 Aug 2006 07:02:19 -0700 Message-ID: <1155650539.858954.113030@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Terry S wrote: > But why have you placed SOOOO many bids on that item when you were > already the high bidder? Are you the other bidder? You also bid on the first one and it went for 92.10 if that's you. I've been trying to get a good one for almost 4 years as I remember. I guess you will see in about five days where I'm going. Article: 339691 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 15 Aug 2006 07:07:44 -0700 Message-ID: <1155650864.763946.42420@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Pimping your auction hopefuls again? Sorry--they don't have a field coil, they are hopeless junk I wouldn't force on a dead guy for fear of being damned by his ghost. Article: 339692 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:10:43 -0500 From: Bill Cohn Subject: Re: Zenith Transistor Radio History References: Message-ID: Jim Barnard wrote: > For those who enjoy Zenith transistor radio history, Dwight Poppy, the > engineer who designed the IF section for the wonderful Royal 500H has > contributed some information about his work at Zenith. You can read his > comments at www.transistor-repairs.com under the HISTORY menu selection. > > Jim, I am glad you were able to get in touch with Dwight. I see he was able to add to your Zenith History quite nicely. Dwight was always a helpful engineer when I worked with him at Zenith. Regards, Bill Cohn N9MHT Former Zenith Engineer 1973-1994 Article: 339693 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 15 Aug 2006 07:11:27 -0700 Message-ID: <1155651087.446546.162490@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155448463.626136.218300@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Hagstar wrote: > Blackened Transistors- serves 8 > > 2 cups germanium transistors (NOT metal cased!) > > 1/2 cup chopped scallions > > 1/4 cup pine nuts > > 2 tsp. olive oil > > 2 cups coarsely chopped PVC spaghetti (use different colors to add contrast) > > > > > > Heat the oil until smoking in a cast iron skillet, add transistors and cook > until well carbonized at medium heat. Add the balance of the ingredients > except the spaghetti and reduce heat to medium, stir for 7-9 min. until > transistor casings smell "cooked". Serve over PVC spaghetti with a side of > "Selenium Tortillas". Is that a wine meal or will diet lemonade do? Article: 339694 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 15 Aug 2006 07:13:36 -0700 Message-ID: <1155651216.298566.20990@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > It's cool. AM and shortwave from 50-16 meters. I wanted a valve > shortwave receiver. I'm only a casual shortwave listener so it will do > me. For more info on this set go to > http://www.shlrc.mq.edu.au/~robinson/museum/kriesler.html > I'm definitely gonna get my father to bid on it (I'm only 16, too young > to actually have a credit card or bank account, but I will pay for the > radio, just get him to do the bidding). Did you get the one I saw that you linked to on eBay.au? That was an awesome set! Article: 339695 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1154556273.855282.81140@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1154596293.127423.234110@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1154602427.506876.102850@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1154638284.566159.11910@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1154661884.091321.122590@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1154804668.336890.260530@n13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1154827349.198320.44090@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1154993429.114318.155650@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155603927.281524.94500@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155646129.530241.222500@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID Message-ID: <7%kEg.3207$zg.1962@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 14:37:55 GMT "Terry S" wrote in message news:1155646129.530241.222500@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com... > > But why have you placed SOOOO many bids on that item when you were > already the high bidder? > http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=190020104248 I think he's trying to scare away other bidders by showing them he's crazy. He may be trying to make them think he continued the $5 increment and is now sitting at around an $85 proxy. If he was foxy enough, only the next few would be $5 increments, followed by some 1-cent incremental bids. He obviously hasn't learned the strategical and real benefits of placing a single bid in the last seconds of an auction. Why show your interest early, and allow others the opportunity to nickle & dime the bid higher? But whether he wins or loses this auction, there are plenty more SG165 units out there. These are very common on eBay, several sell each month. $232.50: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320008228001 $96: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330011249144 $95: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330013715911 $92.10: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200015289306 Looks like the current value on eBay is around $90 plus shipping. And like anything else, more for units that are complete with cables and manuals and working, less without the necessary accessories and working condition unverified. jim menning Article: 339696 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Jeffrey Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 14:39:04 GMT Alan Douglas wrote: > Hi > >>This spool seems rather large. > > I've never rewound a G-2, but someone posted on the net a while > back that a G-3 took 3 lbs of wire, and a 130-A speaker took 4 lbs. > You'll have to buy a 10 lb spool. $$$ > > You'll need to find the gauge. Take a piece of the old wire, heat > it in a match flame to red, to burn off the enamel, and mike it to a > couple of ten-thousandths to get the diameter. There's no guarantee > that it will be a standard gauge however, and I couldn't tell you > offhand if you want to go half a size larger or smaller. You might > have to measure the enamel thickness to decide that, and compare with > the thickness of whatever modern wire you choose. > > Alan Yup, I did a G-3 a while back. The wire was #34, and it took over 3 pounds of it. There are over 8000 feet per pound of #34, so you will be winding a LOT of wire - nearly 5 miles! A motorized winder that runs slow but steady is probably the best bet. I cobbled one up out of a sewing machine motor on a variac, and a couple garage door pulleys. I could probably find the writeup if anyone cares. By the way, I would caution against the approach that goes "unwind until you find the break, repair it, and rewind using the original wire". The original wire is no longer in good shape. Kinks and thin spots in the insulation will fail at some time in the future - and you don't want to wind this again. Good luck. Bill Jeffrey Article: 339697 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED References: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 10:33:54 -0500 ken scharf wrote: > William Sommerwerck wrote: >>> Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll "flicker" >>> at 60 cps, "on" for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle. >>> Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns "on" at the peak of every half >>> cycle (ie, it flickers 120 times a second). >> Then use a full-wave rectifier to drive the LEDs. >> >> Actually, a neon bulb comes on when theres about 60V to 70V across it. The >> series resistor keeps it from being damaged. >> >> > Actually what's wrong with just using a neon bulb? > NE-2's are cheap and easy to find. You can build a dc-ac inverter > to get the needed 90v from a 5-12v supply. > ...at which point it becomes cheaper (and more reliable) to use an LED. jak Article: 339698 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com Subject: please help to identify this wood GE radio Date: 15 Aug 2006 08:44:17 -0700 Message-ID: <1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> I have the picture at: http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic.php?u=21319o0QXe&i=930839 There is no model number anywhere...tube line up is all american five, 12SA7, 12SK7...plus one ballast tube... Thank you very much in advance! siliconvalleyEE ==================================================================== Article: 339699 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HobbyBox" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 15 Aug 2006 08:51:52 -0700 Message-ID: <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> I'd be interested in the write-up. I was just trying to figure out the best way to setup this winding jig, and not have it be to hack-ish. I did mic the wire last night, but I didn't do the match trick, so I will probably have to do it again. It was reading around .009", which lead me to believe it was around 30-31 AWG, but I am going to check again after burning off the insulation and borrowing a better micrometer. Thanks, Nate Bill Jeffrey wrote: > Yup, I did a G-3 a while back. The wire was #34, and it took over 3 > pounds of it. There are over 8000 feet per pound of #34, so you will be > winding a LOT of wire - nearly 5 miles! A motorized winder that runs > slow but steady is probably the best bet. I cobbled one up out of a > sewing machine motor on a variac, and a couple garage door pulleys. I > could probably find the writeup if anyone cares. > > By the way, I would caution against the approach that goes "unwind until > you find the break, repair it, and rewind using the original wire". The > original wire is no longer in good shape. Kinks and thin spots in the > insulation will fail at some time in the future - and you don't want to > wind this again. > > Good luck. > > Bill Jeffrey Article: 339700 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:26:42 -0400 Message-ID: <--qdnfqBHO1xaXzZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com> my guess is this is an export only model. In the 30's RCA used the model code Q to designate such sets, there might have been a code for GE sets too. do you own it? No lable inside at all? Or, underneath? its definitely 40's era, probably late 40's and it has a ballast only because its an export set. That way they could put different ballasts depending on the local voltage. Mark Oppat wrote in message news:1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com... > I have the picture at: > http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic.php?u=21319o0QXe&i=930839 > > There is no model number anywhere...tube line up is all american five, > 12SA7, 12SK7...plus one > ballast tube... > > Thank you very much in advance! > > siliconvalleyEE > ==================================================================== > > Article: 339701 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:30:26 -0400 Message-ID: Most coin op sets were ugly. Some, extra ugly. They were all made by small companies who bought chassis from supplier companies, and Watterson was probably one of them. Or, Howard, Clinton, whoever. Mark Oppat "Syl" wrote in message news:vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net... > No model, brand or label anywhere. > > Steel cabinet. > > There is something handwritten on the speaker OPT, "watterson". > Hard to tell if it bears any relation to the radio. Simple octal AA5 using a > field coil speaker with the number 700 stamped on the back. > Reminds me of an Emerson speaker or a Philco. > > http://www.oldradioz.com/temp/coin_radio.jpg > > Any help IDing the model and/or actual manufacturer would be welcome. > > Syl > P.S. I did search Watterson, but nothing about coin operated radios. > > > Article: 339702 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> <44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net> <44e161cd$0$21014$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> <12e3jgp16ge8t06@news.supernews.com> Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:35:34 -0400 Message-ID: I agree. You should be able to get a clear shot outside with no flash. Put out a soft blanket and turn the set upside down, have someone tilt it back and shoot the paper lable. I thought "plant C" was Contenental Radio and Television (later Admiral)??? Usually shown as CR&TC on diagrams and metal license tags. Mark Oppat "Buck Frobisher" wrote in message news:12e3jgp16ge8t06@news.supernews.com... > "Paul Dietenberger" wrote in message > news:44e161cd$0$21014$88260bb3@free.teranews.com... > > > I'd like to avoid having to hand-redraw this thing to have something to > > work off of and keep in my files. I can't get a good picture inside the > > cabinet. > > > > Cheers, > > paul > > Try it without a flash, out of doors (in sunlight). Or, perhaps try to > illuminate the diagram with a flashlight, again shot without the flash. > > > Article: 339703 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio Date: 15 Aug 2006 09:33:46 -0700 Message-ID: <1155659625.753788.69720@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> Thanks Mark, I could not find any identifying marks anywhere, nothing on the back cover, nothing at the bottom, everything looks original except the speaker... top portion of the tube chart is removed...nothing there...nothing readable on the back of the chassie... I left it in my office, I'll take a few pictures of inside of it tomorrow... ===================================== Mark Oppat wrote: > my guess is this is an export only model. In the 30's RCA used the model > code Q to designate such sets, there might have been a code for GE sets > too. > > do you own it? No lable inside at all? Or, underneath? > > its definitely 40's era, probably late 40's and it has a ballast only > because its an export set. That way they could put different ballasts > depending on the local voltage. > > Mark Oppat > > > wrote in message > news:1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com... > > I have the picture at: > > http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic.php?u=21319o0QXe&i=930839 > > > > There is no model number anywhere...tube line up is all american five, > > 12SA7, 12SK7...plus one > > ballast tube... > > > > Thank you very much in advance! > > > > siliconvalleyEE > > ==================================================================== > > > > Article: 339704 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:41:05 -0400 Message-ID: <4rCdncFeaqzWZXzZnZ2dnUVZ_oydnZ2d@comcast.com> Actually, I have reused field coil wire... but, you gotta know its OK and be careful with it. Rewound a Midwest that way. The deal is, most enamelled wire gets the green flecks (corrosion) where it contacts the paper form. Most often its on the outer layers were you can loose many turns and who cares. But, on this Midwest, you peeled the side form back and no green either, so we did a little testing and figured it was in the core. Yup, it was. Got down to it, cut out the bad, rewound it. about 3 hours for 2 guys... me and my buddy Dan, with a variable speed drill. ... it worked. Mark Oppat "Bill Jeffrey" wrote in message news:c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com... > Alan Douglas wrote: > > Hi > > > >>This spool seems rather large. > > > > I've never rewound a G-2, but someone posted on the net a while > > back that a G-3 took 3 lbs of wire, and a 130-A speaker took 4 lbs. > > You'll have to buy a 10 lb spool. $$$ > > > > You'll need to find the gauge. Take a piece of the old wire, heat > > it in a match flame to red, to burn off the enamel, and mike it to a > > couple of ten-thousandths to get the diameter. There's no guarantee > > that it will be a standard gauge however, and I couldn't tell you > > offhand if you want to go half a size larger or smaller. You might > > have to measure the enamel thickness to decide that, and compare with > > the thickness of whatever modern wire you choose. > > > > Alan > > Yup, I did a G-3 a while back. The wire was #34, and it took over 3 > pounds of it. There are over 8000 feet per pound of #34, so you will be > winding a LOT of wire - nearly 5 miles! A motorized winder that runs > slow but steady is probably the best bet. I cobbled one up out of a > sewing machine motor on a variac, and a couple garage door pulleys. I > could probably find the writeup if anyone cares. > > By the way, I would caution against the approach that goes "unwind until > you find the break, repair it, and rewind using the original wire". The > original wire is no longer in good shape. Kinks and thin spots in the > insulation will fail at some time in the future - and you don't want to > wind this again. > > Good luck. > > Bill Jeffrey > Article: 339705 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner) Subject: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 11:50:27 -0500 Message-ID: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net> ALL THE CORRESPONDENCE REGARDING THE DIAL COVER KITS I SELL HAS BEEN EXCELLENT SO FAR. JUST WONDERING HOW THE REST OF YOU ARE DOING? CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com Bill Turner, excuse caps, short answers, stroke. Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide. Article: 339706 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:51:28 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> On 15 Aug 2006 05:42:23 -0700, Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA, this time masquerading as "CAINE" wrote: >http://i7.tinypic.com/24o4tbl.jpg > >I recently ran across these at an acquaintance's home- he was moving >and had these stored there, and didn't have the space at his new >apartment for them. I ended up getting these speakers and a huge >Kenwood amp for $50 lot price. Don't help this well-known fraudster and eBay con artist, Charlie Nudo aka 66fourdoor on fraudBay. He's just trolling for interest to try to figure out what "gouge" price to ask on fraudBay, and to post hype about them on his auction page. He does it EVERY time. Just say NO to NUdo! Article: 339707 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: isotope115@yahoo.com Subject: Re: Where is the CHRS web site? Date: 15 Aug 2006 10:51:37 -0700 Message-ID: <1155664297.382301.184820@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: Scott W. Harvey wrote: > Sofa Slug wrote: > > The California Historical Radio Society's website appears to have been > > down for the past several days....anyone know when it's coming back? > > > The webmaster for that site is Mike Adams. He can be reached at > adams@email.sjsu.edu > > Something is amiss....A couple of days ago it was completely down. Now, > it's accessable but all you get is a "forbidden" error message. > > -Scott I think it's been down for a week, but it is back up as of now. The story I heard is that the internet service provider switched servers, and the password needed to be re-entered. Supposedly that the only person that had the password was on a cruise ship and out of contact. Ken Article: 339708 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "gil" Subject: Grundig Majestic 2068 question Date: 15 Aug 2006 11:30:39 -0700 Message-ID: <1155666638.672365.90770@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> I have one of these beauties in very nice shape that I pull out of the closet once in a while to play with and to this day it still amazes me how well it works, sensitive and selective as well not to mention great audio. My question is...is there a manual I can download somewhere for this radio? And any info like year made, price, anything would be appreciated since I cant seem to find anything on it on the web. Thanks in advance, Gil Article: 339709 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" References: <1468-44E1CE9A-218@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: ID needed Message-ID: <9NoEg.72592$_J1.728355@twister2.libero.it> Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 18:56:05 GMT "Ken G." >I am not familiar with foreign radios but have seen some strange designs > That dial looks like it came from an Airline table radio . Notice how > the dial frame covers at the top over some routed lines . ....corriente alternada...! http://www.junkradios.com/public/Rtag.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/Ftag.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/ohmygod.jpg -- Daniele http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339710 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: 15 Aug 2006 12:54:29 -0700 Message-ID: <1155671669.492228.145840@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Paul, I have had good luck photographing the inside wall of the cabinet using a mirror and outdoor natural light as suggested. Set the mirror on a 45 degree angle and shoot the photo using telephoto zoom, then in the photo program flip the image the correct way for your shot and you should have a nice 'square' image that you can read. Neil S. Paul Dietenberger wrote: > "Aaron Hunter" wrote in message > news:44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net... > > Thanks much, I appreciate it. > The serial number is 313022 with no letter or number prefixes. It's > otherwise just marked "Plant C Chicago" and a typewritten note stating that > due to the set's extreme sensitivity that the user is not to use an antenna > longer than 30 feet with it. :-) > > I'm sure it's not a Belmont, I don't think they were plant C and the look of > both the set and the schematic pasted inside are all wrong for Belmont. > Here's a partial picture of the schematic in the cabinet. Does the > look-and-feel and character styling ring a bell with anyone? > > http://personalpages.tds.net/~pdieten/plantc.jpg > > I'd like to avoid having to hand-redraw this thing to have something to work > off of and keep in my files. I can't get a good picture inside the cabinet. > > Cheers, > paul > > > > Paul > > > > Good looking radio! > > > > According to my information, "Plant A" was for Clinton. A "C" preceeding > > the serial number was for Corona Radio & Telev. Corp of Chicago, Ill. Is > > there a "25" or some letter preceeding the serial number? > > > > Mark suggested "Imperial". There are pictures of Imperials in Stein's > > "Pre-War Consoles" that are close but not exact to your set. The grill > > and dial resemble yours. None pictured had 11 tubes. > > > > Imperial was manufactured by Belmont Radio Corp of Chicago, Ill. Names > > used by Belmont were "Belmont", "Classique", "Crusader", "Goodyear Wings", > > "Freshman", "Imperial", "Starck Classique", "Truetone", and "Wings". > > > > I checked the Belmont listings in Mallory and there were no tube line-ups > > like yours. > > > > Aaron > > > > Paul Dietenberger wrote: > >> I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though. > >> > >> This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by > >> Clinton. Looks like this: > >> http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg > >> 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder > >> failed to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be > >> there under some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the > >> inside of the cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) > >> and doesn't photograph well. > >> > >> Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80. > >> > >> Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is > >> on it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent > >> maker-style nail-on tags. > >> > >> Thanks > >> paul > > > > > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Article: 339711 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Zenith Transistor Radio History From: "Jim Barnard" Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 15:56:06 -0400 Message-ID: References: Bill: Thanks for your comments. It took me a while to run down Mr. Poppy. Once I made contact, he was most helpful. One of the sad things is that the engineers and designers who worked on the first Royal 500 are apparently now deceased. There are so many questions that I would like to have asked these folks, but now, I want get the chance. Jim Barnard "Bill Cohn" wrote in message news:JYednTVAaMVHSHzZnZ2dnUVZ_vGdnZ2d@comcast.com... > Jim Barnard wrote: >> For those who enjoy Zenith transistor radio history, Dwight Poppy, the >> engineer who designed the IF section for the wonderful Royal 500H has >> contributed some information about his work at Zenith. You can read his >> comments at www.transistor-repairs.com under the HISTORY menu selection. >> >> > Jim, > > I am glad you were able to get in touch with Dwight. I see he was able to > add to your Zenith History quite nicely. Dwight was always a helpful > engineer when I worked with him at Zenith. > > Regards, > > Bill Cohn > N9MHT > Former Zenith Engineer 1973-1994 Article: 339712 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1468-44E1CE9A-218@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> <9NoEg.72592$_J1.728355@twister2.libero.it> Subject: Re: ID needed Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 19:56:41 GMT "Daniele" wrote in message news:9NoEg.72592$_J1.728355@twister2.libero.it... > > "Ken G." >>I am not familiar with foreign radios but have seen some strange designs >> That dial looks like it came from an Airline table radio . Notice how >> the dial frame covers at the top over some routed lines . > > ....corriente alternada...! > http://www.junkradios.com/public/Rtag.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/Ftag.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/ohmygod.jpg > Syl & Ken were correct. Pretty obvious now that this is not the radio that originally came in this cabinet. jim menning Article: 339713 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 15 Aug 2006 13:08:11 -0700 Message-ID: <1155672491.482250.324700@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Actually, the final resistance of the field coil is not really very critical, nor are the turns. One wants of get close to the original resistance and turns, but a 10% error would, like everything else in the radio, not likely cause a noticable difference. It should not be difficult to come well within 10% using any kind of lashup. Whoever wanted to know about the set-up, send me a direct message and I will take a photo of the side blocks I use and email it to you. I used a 3/8" ready-rod as a spindle and you can chuck that in a drill and then stick the stub on the far side of the coil into a hole in a wood block in a vice, post or tree, as a back steady. Set the spool of new wire on end in a round 5 gal bucket and once you get going it will fly off the spool with virtually no drag and no chance of snarling if you stop winding. Neil S. Mark Oppat wrote: > Actually, I have reused field coil wire... but, you gotta know its OK and be > careful with it. Rewound a Midwest that way. > > The deal is, most enamelled wire gets the green flecks (corrosion) where it > contacts the paper form. Most often its on the outer layers were you can > loose many turns and who cares. But, on this Midwest, you peeled the side > form back and no green either, so we did a little testing and figured it was > in the core. Yup, it was. Got down to it, cut out the bad, rewound it. > about 3 hours for 2 guys... me and my buddy Dan, with a variable speed > drill. ... it worked. > > Mark Oppat > > > "Bill Jeffrey" wrote in message > news:c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com... > > Alan Douglas wrote: > > > Hi > > > > > >>This spool seems rather large. > > > > > > I've never rewound a G-2, but someone posted on the net a while > > > back that a G-3 took 3 lbs of wire, and a 130-A speaker took 4 lbs. > > > You'll have to buy a 10 lb spool. $$$ > > > > > > You'll need to find the gauge. Take a piece of the old wire, heat > > > it in a match flame to red, to burn off the enamel, and mike it to a > > > couple of ten-thousandths to get the diameter. There's no guarantee > > > that it will be a standard gauge however, and I couldn't tell you > > > offhand if you want to go half a size larger or smaller. You might > > > have to measure the enamel thickness to decide that, and compare with > > > the thickness of whatever modern wire you choose. > > > > > > Alan > > > > Yup, I did a G-3 a while back. The wire was #34, and it took over 3 > > pounds of it. There are over 8000 feet per pound of #34, so you will be > > winding a LOT of wire - nearly 5 miles! A motorized winder that runs > > slow but steady is probably the best bet. I cobbled one up out of a > > sewing machine motor on a variac, and a couple garage door pulleys. I > > could probably find the writeup if anyone cares. > > > > By the way, I would caution against the approach that goes "unwind until > > you find the break, repair it, and rewind using the original wire". The > > original wire is no longer in good shape. Kinks and thin spots in the > > insulation will fail at some time in the future - and you don't want to > > wind this again. > > > > Good luck. > > > > Bill Jeffrey > > Article: 339714 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "AB9GO" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 15 Aug 2006 15:09:08 -0700 Message-ID: <1155679748.474995.186400@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Yep. Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups. The nice thing is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!! Few if any "Made in Japan" speakers from that era are worth much of anything. DeserTBoB wrote: > On 15 Aug 2006 05:42:23 -0700, Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA, this > time masquerading as "CAINE" wrote: > > >http://i7.tinypic.com/24o4tbl.jpg > > > >I recently ran across these at an acquaintance's home- he was moving > >and had these stored there, and didn't have the space at his new > >apartment for them. I ended up getting these speakers and a huge > >Kenwood amp for $50 lot price. > > Don't help this well-known fraudster and eBay con artist, Charlie Nudo > aka 66fourdoor on fraudBay. He's just trolling for interest to try to > figure out what "gouge" price to ask on fraudBay, and to post hype > about them on his auction page. He does it EVERY time. > > Just say NO to NUdo! Article: 339715 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 18:14:57 -0400 Message-ID: <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Try this person perhaps, says they have lots- http://cgi.ebay.com/29-Ga-Magnet-Wire-Aprox-9-12-Lbs_W0QQitemZ220016604719QQihZ012QQcategoryZ100180QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Article: 339716 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "AB9GO" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 15 Aug 2006 15:32:04 -0700 Message-ID: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Yep. Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups. The nice thing is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!! Few if any "Made in Japan" speakers from that era are worth much of anything. DeserTBoB wrote: > On 15 Aug 2006 05:42:23 -0700, Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA, this > time masquerading as "CAINE" wrote: > > >http://i7.tinypic.com/24o4tbl.jpg > > > >I recently ran across these at an acquaintance's home- he was moving > >and had these stored there, and didn't have the space at his new > >apartment for them. I ended up getting these speakers and a huge > >Kenwood amp for $50 lot price. > > Don't help this well-known fraudster and eBay con artist, Charlie Nudo > aka 66fourdoor on fraudBay. He's just trolling for interest to try to > figure out what "gouge" price to ask on fraudBay, and to post hype > about them on his auction page. He does it EVERY time. > > Just say NO to NUdo! Article: 339717 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 15 Aug 2006 15:33:12 -0700 Message-ID: <1155681190.349527.175330@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> No, someone else got that one. Damn. I know, I fell in love with it too. But I've got an eye on a couple, so if I lose one, I can go bid on another. Article: 339718 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 15 Aug 2006 15:36:31 -0700 Message-ID: <1155681390.948225.226410@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> View this one, and tell me if its any good. Article: 339719 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 15 Aug 2006 15:36:42 -0700 Message-ID: <1155681402.588938.166900@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> View this one, and tell me if its any good.http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VINTAGE-OPERATIC-WOODEN-CASE-VALVE-RADIO_W0QQitemZ300015608962QQihZ020QQcategoryZ933QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Article: 339720 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: ID needed Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 16:38:53 -0600 Message-ID: <24556-44E24CFD-267@storefull-3236.bay.webtv.net> References: OMG ... i smell hack job . Quick resell it ! Article: 339721 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 16:34:16 -0600 Message-ID: <24555-44E24BE8-966@storefull-3236.bay.webtv.net> References: <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> For a common Majestic radio i would find a replacement field coil speaker about the same ohms and throw the old speaker away . Article: 339722 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 16:42:13 -0600 Message-ID: <24555-44E24DC5-967@storefull-3236.bay.webtv.net> References: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net> Well ... i am doing without Article: 339723 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bob Weiss Subject: Re: FART....radio! References: <1155577559.829511.38930@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 22:58:47 GMT Daniele wrote: > "RadioGary" > >> So considering this radio is antique and somewhat aged, would that make >> it an >> OLD FART RADIO? > > ...bad caps? ;-) > More like a bad selenium rectifier...:) Bob Weiss N2IXK Article: 339724 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: yerke@adelphia.net (Rick Yerke) Subject: WTB: RCA Portable 3BX671 Stratoworld Dial Pointer Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 23:53:58 GMT Message-ID: This is going to be a longshot, but i recently picked up a near mint RCA 3BX671 Stratoworld Portable radio that was missing the dial pointer.This is the radio that is similiar to the Zenith Transoceanics.If anyone has a junker they are parting out i could use the pointer. Rick email yerke@adelphia.net Article: 339725 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Engineer" Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: 15 Aug 2006 17:40:57 -0700 Message-ID: <1155688857.749094.312170@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: I invariably use LEDs on vintage solid state receiver restorations instead of pea lamps. Whatever you do, don't let the PIV on the LED exceed 5 volts. On AC I always use a small parallel reverse diode so one half of the waveform conducts through the LED and the other half though the protection diode. A mS of thought will tell you that the series resistor gives no PIV protection. Or use two back to back LED's, of course. Cheers, Roger Article: 339726 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "William Sommerwerck" References: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> <1155688857.749094.312170@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 18:01:55 -0700 Message-ID: > A mS of thought will tell you that the series resistor > gives no PIV protection. ms (millisecond), not mS (millisiemen). Article: 339727 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Crosley 516 Question Again From: Paul Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 01:02:00 GMT I finally installed the new resistors to replace the Candohm, but this did not fix the Crosley's problem, so I was rechecking everything again and discovered if I wiggle the 6b5 tube I get some output from the speaker and was even able to hear a station for a moment. This tube socket is 2 layers of bakelite, I'm guessing it's arching in between the 2 layers, is there any way to repair this? or would a new socket be the best bet (if you can get this type of socket?) I did try shooting some isopropanol alcohol into it with no sucess Paul Article: 339728 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: Subject: Re: RCA Portable 3BX671 Stratoworld Dial Pointer Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:15:30 -0400 Message-ID: <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com> If you have to re-string it, its a super tricky one you would NEVER guess on your own. The SAMS print is wrong, so is their dial cord book. Only the RCA print is right... and (what do you know?) I happen to have it. The deal is the dial cord actually pulls another subsystem that is anchored at each end to the dial face. the subsystem has two pulleys. Kinda like a "come-along" works. Ingenious. It ends up expanding the run of the pointer. I have several dial pointers here but you'd be amazed how much they vary in the way they hang off the dial. Did you look inside the set REAL good? Mark Oppat "Rick Yerke" wrote in message news:DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com... > This is going to be a longshot, but i recently picked up a near mint RCA > 3BX671 Stratoworld Portable radio that was missing the dial pointer.This is > the radio that is similiar to the Zenith Transoceanics.If anyone has a junker > they are parting out i could use the pointer. Rick > email yerke@adelphia.net > Article: 339729 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: Subject: Re: Crosley 516 Question Again Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:17:16 -0400 Message-ID: You can get most sockets from me. However, they vary by mounting holes and method of mounting. Look in the AES catalog to get an idea. Mark Oppat www.oldradioparts.net "Paul" wrote in message news:Xns9820C19F89491nospamallnet@24.70.95.211... > I finally installed the new resistors to replace the Candohm, but this > did not fix the Crosley's problem, so I was rechecking everything again and > discovered if I wiggle the 6b5 tube I get some output from the speaker and > was even able to hear a station for a moment. This tube socket is 2 layers > of bakelite, I'm guessing it's arching in between the 2 layers, is there > any way to repair this? or would a new socket be the best bet (if you can > get this type of socket?) > > > I did try shooting some isopropanol alcohol into it with no sucess > > > Paul > Article: 339730 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: yerke@adelphia.net (Rick Yerke) Subject: Re: RCA Portable 3BX671 Stratoworld Dial Pointer References: <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 01:29:37 GMT Message-ID: In article <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com>, "Mark Oppat" wrote: >If you have to re-string it, its a super tricky one you would NEVER guess >on your own. The SAMS print is wrong, so is their dial cord book. Only the >RCA print is right... and (what do you know?) I happen to have it. The deal >is the dial cord actually pulls another subsystem that is anchored at each >end to the dial face. the subsystem has two pulleys. Kinda like a >"come-along" works. Ingenious. It ends up expanding the run of the >pointer. > > I have several dial pointers here but you'd be amazed how much they vary in >the way they hang off the dial. Did you look inside the set REAL good? > >Mark Oppat > > >"Rick Yerke" wrote in message >news:DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com... >> This is going to be a longshot, but i recently picked up a near mint RCA >> 3BX671 Stratoworld Portable radio that was missing the dial pointer.This >is >> the radio that is similiar to the Zenith Transoceanics.If anyone has a >junker >> they are parting out i could use the pointer. Rick >> email yerke@adelphia.net >> > Mark: I had the radio all apart and there was no pointer or it`s other parts anywhere.I looked at my Sam`s Dial cord books and saw how complicated the stringing is for this radio,but the way it is set-up now i can still turn the tuning knob and bring in statios, although i don`t know what frequency it is tuned to.Right now i just have a skinny piece of white tape stuck behind the dial cover to simulate a pointer.It looks pretty good for display purposes.Someday i might find the pointer and it`s sub assembly and then i might need the RCA stringing guide.Thanks Rick > > Article: 339731 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: It speaks! References: Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:39:40 -0400 Hi James, Hows things? Congratulations purchasing and repairing your 1st tube radio although you fixed many other items in your life. I promise you one thing, 1 or 2 radios is not enough... :-) Regards, Sal Brisindi James Sweet wrote: > Some of you may have been following my acquisition of a console > consisting of a 1938 7 tube Zenith shutterdial chassis in a Sparton > cabinet. > > I finally had some time to work on the chassis some this weekend. I > replaced the electrolytics as well as a capacitor hanging off the > audio output tube and another cap and resistor (out of tolerance) that > happened to share some of the same lugs. I applied power, no smoke or > funny sounds, and then a short while later I was greeted by a buzz. A > twirl of the dial and people bitching about politics blared from the > speaker, not my first choice of listening material but it works! I was > pleased to find a fair amount of activity on the SW band though the > tuning seems a bit twitchy, as well as a tiny amount on the "Police" > band which all in all is pretty impressive given my antenna is about > 6' of wire strewn across the floor. > > It's definitely far from done, the controls are very noisy, the tuning > feels a bit odd at least on the SW band, the tuning eye glows dimly > but is completely unresponsive, the insulation is crumbling off the > speaker wires and there's still a fair amount of cleaning and other > cosmetic work to do but it's off to a good start. I've been restuffing > the original capacitors as practice, it does slow things down a bit > but it's not as difficult as I would have assumed. I cheated and used > hot glue instead of salvaging the original brown wax and then dipping > the finished cap in molten white candle wax to give it that waxy look, > it'd take a close eye to ever see the difference. > > I'm already feeling the itch to get another radio too, hopefully I can > find a nice little wood cased table radio at some point, an AA5 would > be fine, I'm *hoping* that that'll be enough, I don't want my whole > house stacked with radios, at some point I wouldn't mind trading up to > a nicer all original console though. From adouglasatgis.net Thu Aug 17 01:52:48 EDT 2006 Article: 339732 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:27:38 -0400 Organization: NewsGuy - Unlimited Usenet $19.95 Lines: 18 Message-ID: References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p-683.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news.unc.edu!elk.ncren.net!newshub.sdsu.edu!newscon04.news.prodigy.net!prodigy.net!pln-e!spln!rex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news4 Xref: news0.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:339732 Hi, > It was reading around .009", which >lead me to believe it was around 30-31 AWG, You need to know exactly. An error of one wire size will lead to a large error in turns and resistance. 50% error wouldn't surprise me. You don't need to count turns, but they will affect the magnetic field strength of the completed speaker. And do follow Neil's advice on the supply spool, which sits on end, stationary, with the wire being taken off over the upper flange. Finally a small rant. A micrometer caliper, a microphone, or a Michael, are all mike. Not mic. You don't say Mic rode his bic on the turnpic. Alan Article: 339733 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 18:41:03 -0700 Message-ID: <8942-44E277AF-376@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net> References: >From Ken S.: >Actually what's wrong with just using a >neon bulb? NE-2's are cheap and easy to >find. Neon bulbs (like NE-2s) sold nowadays seems to have a short lifespan compared to those available 50 years ago. If you can find some old appliances like irons, pressure cookers or waffle irons at Goodwill/Starvation Army containing neon bulbs, those bulbs will last indefinitely (with correct series resistor of course). Another source is old wall switches containing NE-2s in the handle. In my apt. building there are some of these switches that have been illuminated 24/7 for at least 40 years continuously. Bill(oc) Article: 339734 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 15 Aug 2006 18:54:59 -0700 Message-ID: <1155693299.909089.141210@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > View this one, and tell me if its any > good.http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VINTAGE-OPERATIC-WOODEN-CASE-VALVE-RADIO_W0QQitemZ300015608962QQihZ020QQcategoryZ933QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I think they're ALL good to an extent, but then I'm a radio addict, am I not? Article: 339735 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: Crosley 516 Question Again Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:00:58 -0700 Message-ID: <1155693658.056965.282950@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: Paul, what makes you think it is arcing inside the socket? Generally the large pin sockets have really good internal spacing, so that is not usually a problem. Poor contact between the tube pins and the socket clips is far more common in my experience as well as broken solder connections in the tube pin tips, especially if the bulb is loose on the base. A not common problem is the brass contact assembly fracturing between the pin clip and the solder tag; with the tube out, gently wiggle the tags and see if the clips move. If there is a break, just carfully solder a wire from the clip to the tag. Also, wiggling the tube can move components connected to the socket tags and jiggle an intermittant connection, although this is more common with molded sockets. Neil S. Paul wrote: > I finally installed the new resistors to replace the Candohm, but this > did not fix the Crosley's problem, so I was rechecking everything again and > discovered if I wiggle the 6b5 tube I get some output from the speaker and > was even able to hear a station for a moment. This tube socket is 2 layers > of bakelite, I'm guessing it's arching in between the 2 layers, is there > any way to repair this? or would a new socket be the best bet (if you can > get this type of socket?) > > > I did try shooting some isopropanol alcohol into it with no sucess > > > Paul Article: 339736 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Zenith Transistor Radio History Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:02:34 -0700 Message-ID: <1155693753.930575.98100@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: Jim Barnard wrote: > Bill: > > Thanks for your comments. It took me a while to run down Mr. Poppy. Once I > made contact, he was most helpful. > > One of the sad things is that the engineers and designers who worked on the > first Royal 500 are apparently now deceased. There are so many questions > that I would like to have asked these folks, but now, I want get the chance. > > Jim Barnard How terribly sad. > > > "Bill Cohn" wrote in message > news:JYednTVAaMVHSHzZnZ2dnUVZ_vGdnZ2d@comcast.com... > > Jim Barnard wrote: > >> For those who enjoy Zenith transistor radio history, Dwight Poppy, the > >> engineer who designed the IF section for the wonderful Royal 500H has > >> contributed some information about his work at Zenith. You can read his > >> comments at www.transistor-repairs.com under the HISTORY menu selection. > >> > >> > > Jim, > > > > I am glad you were able to get in touch with Dwight. I see he was able to > > add to your Zenith History quite nicely. Dwight was always a helpful > > engineer when I worked with him at Zenith. > > > > Regards, > > > > Bill Cohn > > N9MHT > > Former Zenith Engineer 1973-1994 Article: 339738 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:04:41 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: In "Mark Oppat" writes: >Most coin op sets were ugly. That makes sense, when you think about it. You don't want something attractive that the unethical will be tempted to steal. Plus it's got to withstand the treatment of a public place. >Some, extra ugly. Some hotels require extra effort to ensure it's not the least hideous thing in the room. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339739 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Where is the CHRS web site? Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:05:42 -0700 Message-ID: <1155693942.374179.189450@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: isotope115@yahoo.com wrote: > Scott W. Harvey wrote: > > Sofa Slug wrote: > > > The California Historical Radio Society's website appears to have been > > > down for the past several days....anyone know when it's coming back? > > > > > > The webmaster for that site is Mike Adams. He can be reached at > > adams@email.sjsu.edu > > > > Something is amiss....A couple of days ago it was completely down. Now, > > it's accessable but all you get is a "forbidden" error message. > > > > -Scott > > I think it's been down for a week, but it is back up as of now. The > story I heard is that the internet service provider switched servers, > and the password needed to be re-entered. Supposedly that the only > person that had the password was on a cruise ship and out of contact. > > Ken Ya gotta LOVE those providers...at least nobody found themselves found themselves being hosted by Upper Slobodian Internet, especially during the Slobodh insurgency. Article: 339740 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jiri Placek" Subject: Russian/Eastern European wire radios Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:07:36 -0700 Message-ID: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> That was a topic here some time ago. I just returned from Europe with a sophisticated soviet three-channel receiver ALTAIR PT-204 that was apparently made in 1990's. It is a 220 V unit that received 30 V, two-wire signal. It was made after 1988 as there is a reference to the standard GOST18286-88. It consists of two units - one is digital alarm clock with a nixie display and the other one amplified wire radio receiver for three programs. I suspect that two of those three audio signals were at the distribution station heterodyned to ultrasonic frequencies and then converted back to audio signal in the receiver. There are three knobs on the back side that appear to be tunable traps, perhaps for harmonic frequencies. It is amazing that such wire radio was made even in 1990's when there was already a good FM signal coverage and people were not driven nuts by AM interference that eventually lead them to wire radio. Another amazing detail are the plugs that are of the same desing for both 220 V power and for the 30 V audio signal. I wonder how many units were fried.... I tried to find some info on either the technical standard for this multi-signal system or schematics of the radio itself but I have failed so far. I will appreciate any lead. Jiri Placek Boyertown, PA Article: 339742 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: FART....radio! Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 20:00:37 -0500 Message-ID: <3701-44E27C45-933@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> References: <44DF88DB.C91CAB4E@earthlink.net> That's not a nice thing to say about Italian radios.Shame! cuhulin Article: 339743 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:18:48 -0700 Message-ID: <1155694728.312665.228270@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> jim menning wrote: > "Terry S" wrote in message > news:1155646129.530241.222500@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com... > > > > > But why have you placed SOOOO many bids on that item when you were > > already the high bidder? > > > > http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=190020104248 > > I think he's trying to scare away other bidders by showing them he's crazy. He may > be trying to make them think he continued the $5 increment and is now sitting at > around an $85 proxy. If he was foxy enough, only the next few would be $5 > increments, followed by some 1-cent incremental bids. > > He obviously hasn't learned the strategical and real benefits of placing a single bid > in the last seconds of an auction. Why show your interest early, and allow others > the opportunity to nickle & dime the bid higher? > > But whether he wins or loses this auction, there are plenty more SG165 units out > there. These are very common on eBay, several sell each month. > > $232.50: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320008228001 > > $96: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330011249144 > > $95: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330013715911 > > $92.10: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200015289306 > > Looks like the current value on eBay is around $90 plus shipping. And like anything > else, more for units that are complete with cables and manuals and working, less > without the necessary accessories and working condition unverified. > > jim menning Via the Animals: It's my bid, and I'll do what I want. Quit picking at my strategy. You haven't been bidding on them (or trying to for four years). Whether or not they are common, this one I hope will be the last one I need to look at. 232 bucks is insane, possibly, but you have just over 4 days to view the carnage or whatever, don't you think? Why are you concerned so strongly? Am I bidding against somebody in the group? Article: 339744 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:28:23 -0700 Message-ID: <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> RG wrote: > Why is that ? > > I have a JVC KD-SH9750 HU in my GTI that I would not dream of replacing. It > is by far the best sounding HU I have ever had ... and I have had most of > the top of the line HU's at one time or another. In fact, I have top of the > line Alpines sitting on the shelf right now because they just can't touch > this JVC in SQ (and I have tried them). So is your statement general in > nature or aimed at specific offerings from JVC ? > > - RG > > <0junk4me@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > news:1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net... > > THe first letter in JVC stands for Junk. > > > > WHy you'd post this to newsgroups where audio production > > professionals hang is beyond me. THIs stuff is utter crap > > pure and simple. > > Back under your rock please. > > > > > > > > > > Richard webb, > > Electric Spider Productions > > Replace anything before the @ symbol with elspider for real > > email address. > > > > > > > > "In some hands, all the knobs are suck knobs." -- Jay Kadis SQ??? Why do you have a quad unit in your VW? How do you match it to the car stereo? MOST of those things were like 15 w/channel rear amp with no good preouts to do it right in your home (unless you do some creative wiring)! I've got a 4VR-5446 and there are at least two "work" units at Oak Tree Enterprises maybe dirt cheap, get the board and build one right to put under the seat. Sounds like an interesting project, even if it's not really needed. Article: 339745 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: ken scharf Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED References: <8942-44E277AF-376@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 22:31:18 -0400 Bill Sheppard wrote: > From Ken S.: > >> Actually what's wrong with just using a >> neon bulb? NE-2's are cheap and easy to >find. > > Neon bulbs (like NE-2s) sold nowadays seems to have a short lifespan > compared to those available 50 years ago. Hmmm, guess the made in China bulbs don't have quite as much Neon in them as the old ones or the glass is thinner... You know when a neon bulb has reached the end of life when it won't light in the dark, but does in the daytime. I have a few neon night lights that used to work in the dark, but now just flicker a bit. I used to have a screw in 5W neon bulb and an Argon one too. They worked fine with those old magneto generators. > If you can find some old appliances like irons, > pressure cookers or waffle irons at Goodwill/Starvation Army containing > neon bulbs, those bulbs will last indefinitely (with correct series > resistor of course). Another source is old wall switches containing > NE-2s in the handle. In my apt. building there are some of these > switches that have been illuminated 24/7 for at least 40 years > continuously. > Bill(oc) > > Article: 339746 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: RCA Portable 3BX671 Stratoworld Dial Pointer References: <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:33:08 -0500 Rick Yerke wrote: > In article <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com>, "Mark Oppat" > wrote: >> If you have to re-string it, its a super tricky one you would NEVER guess >> on your own. The SAMS print is wrong, so is their dial cord book. Only the >> RCA print is right... and (what do you know?) I happen to have it. The deal >> is the dial cord actually pulls another subsystem that is anchored at each >> end to the dial face. the subsystem has two pulleys. Kinda like a >> "come-along" works. Ingenious. It ends up expanding the run of the >> pointer. >> >> I have several dial pointers here but you'd be amazed how much they vary in >> the way they hang off the dial. Did you look inside the set REAL good? >> >> Mark Oppat >> >> >> "Rick Yerke" wrote in message >> news:DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com... >>> This is going to be a longshot, but i recently picked up a near mint RCA >>> 3BX671 Stratoworld Portable radio that was missing the dial pointer.This >> is >>> the radio that is similiar to the Zenith Transoceanics.If anyone has a >> junker >>> they are parting out i could use the pointer. Rick >>> email yerke@adelphia.net >>> > Mark: I had the radio all apart and there was no pointer or it`s other parts > anywhere.I looked at my Sam`s Dial cord books and saw how complicated the > stringing is for this radio,but the way it is set-up now i can still turn the > tuning knob and bring in statios, although i don`t know what frequency it is > tuned to.Right now i just have a skinny piece of white tape stuck behind the > dial cover to simulate a pointer.It looks pretty good for display > purposes.Someday i might find the pointer and it`s sub assembly and then i > might need the RCA stringing guide.Thanks Rick > >> > 7BX10 is the same receiver under the covers, so to speak. That expands, somewhat, your sources for a pointer. I've got both. Many parts are interchangeable. Funny thing, people rarely part these out. I've only seen a few parts sets for sale, although they do come up. Most that get on eBay actually work. If you do find a parts set, I'm still looking for a volume control knob (same as the tuning knob), and a latch, to make both of mine near perfect. jak Article: 339747 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:38:42 GMT HobbyBox wrote: > I'd be interested in the write-up. I was just trying to figure out the > best way to setup this winding jig, and not have it be to hack-ish. As an aside, in the near future I will be set up for rewinding transformers. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 339748 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Peter Wieck" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:40:24 -0700 Message-ID: <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> 60s junk then, 60s junk now. Not worth the energy taken to carry across the room. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Article: 339749 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dr. Dolittle" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:42:00 GMT 0junk4me@bellsouth.net wrote: > THe first letter in JVC stands for Junk. > > WHy you'd post this to newsgroups where audio production > professionals hang is beyond me. THIs stuff is utter crap > pure and simple. > Back under your rock please. > Uh, having a bad night Richard? Article: 339750 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "RG" References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 22:45:54 -0400 Huh .... you're joking, right ? - RG > SQ??? > > Why do you have a quad unit in your VW? How do you match it to the car > stereo? MOST of those things were like 15 w/channel rear amp with no > good preouts to do it right in your home (unless you do some creative > wiring)! Article: 339751 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Solomon K. Subject: RCA 1932 Radiotron Pocket Reference Book Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:50:55 GMT Posted in alt.binaries.e-book.technical if anyone is interested. S. Article: 339752 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:58:53 -0700 Message-ID: <1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> RG wrote: > Huh .... you're joking, right ? > > - RG > > > > SQ??? > > > > Why do you have a quad unit in your VW? How do you match it to the car > > stereo? MOST of those things were like 15 w/channel rear amp with no > > good preouts to do it right in your home (unless you do some creative > > wiring)! He said "SQ", dammit. It's the only quad format I haven't got in my young collection, although it's common as DIRT. SQ. invented by Sony, discarded shortly and retrieved from the can by CBS. QS (Variomatrix) invented by Sansui and the only one not tied to a company making records, and CD-4, not a matrix but a signal with the rears stacked on the fronts with a 30 kHz pilot to tell the unit to separate them, needed a really good cartridge with response to maybe 50 kHz. Problem being, while discrete, the record when damaged wouldn't work as well. No, I was not kidding...explain your acronym. These things weren't exactly car stereo stuff. They were for RECORDS. Tapes were discrete and records are not a car medium. Article: 339753 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 15 Aug 2006 20:00:53 -0700 Message-ID: <1155697253.321063.186850@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> Yeah, you are, but that's a good thing! Article: 339754 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 15 Aug 2006 20:02:03 -0700 Message-ID: <1155697323.923842.227590@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Peter Wieck wrote: > 60s junk then, 60s junk now. > > Not worth the energy taken to carry across the room. > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA Great for amplifying modern DVDs. I have a Pioneer QX-8000 and another as a parts unit also. Weren't you on junk in the sixties? I was being breast-fed for some of it. Article: 339755 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 15 Aug 2006 20:02:50 -0700 Message-ID: <1155697370.803507.160560@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > Yeah, you are, but that's a good thing! Tell that to my mum! Article: 339756 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Crosley 516 Question Again From: Paul References: <1155693658.056965.282950@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 03:14:47 GMT "nesesu" wrote in news:1155693658.056965.282950@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com: > Paul, what makes you think it is arcing inside the socket? Generally > the large pin sockets have really good internal spacing, so that is > not usually a problem. Poor contact between the tube pins and the > socket clips is far more common in my experience as well as broken > solder connections in the tube pin tips, especially if the bulb is > loose on the base. A not common problem is the brass contact assembly > fracturing between the pin clip and the solder tag; with the tube out, > gently wiggle the tags and see if the clips move. If there is a break, > just carfully solder a wire from the clip to the tag. Also, wiggling > the tube can move components connected to the socket tags and jiggle > an intermittant connection, although this is more common with molded > sockets. > > Neil S. > > Paul wrote: >> I finally installed the new resistors to replace the Candohm, but >> this did not fix the Crosley's problem, so I was rechecking >> everything again and discovered if I wiggle the 6b5 tube I get some >> output from the speaker and was even able to hear a station for a >> moment. This tube socket is 2 layers of bakelite, I'm guessing it's >> arching in between the 2 layers, is there any way to repair this? or >> would a new socket be the best bet (if you can get this type of >> socket?) >> >> >> I did try shooting some isopropanol alcohol into it with no sucess >> >> >> Paul > > Hi Neil I'm not positive it is a short, but I have cleaned the contacts tightened them, which diden't solve the problem. In fact when the contacts are tight and you can't wiggle the tube as much I get no static , just a hum, but if I losen the contacts abit, I can wiggle the tube back and forth more and are able to get static. So I thought maybe there is a short or bad connection in the socket, although they all check out with an ohm meter. I will try your suggestion about tags and tube it's self. Thanks Paul Article: 339757 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "gerryu21220@gmail.com" Subject: Knob Dilemma Date: 15 Aug 2006 20:18:14 -0700 Message-ID: <1155698294.055088.25220@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Ok - long story short: Pulled the amp and speaker from a GE RP1120 Phono, and removed the panel they were mounted to (all in one unit, so it can easily be returned to it's original state). Installed a new front panel, and installed the amp and speaker pulled from a Newcomb school phono. The amp is a little long, and overlaps the edge of the speaker slightly. Doesn't allow the amp to come in full contact with the front panel, and so the pot shafts are only just flush with the panel, rather than sticking through the holes. The pot shafts are about 1/2 inch long, split knurled type. The original knobs for that amp won't work - they would need shafts on the bottom sides that reach into the holes in the panel to make contact with the pot shafts. I've got several old knobs lying about with shafts, but none are for knurled pot shafts - they're all for the D-shaped shafts. A Google search turned up only knurled mounting knobs that would be surface mount. None had a shaft that reaches into the hole. Is there a way to extend the pot shafts, or a sleeve to convert them to the D-shaped shaft? Suggestions? Gerry Article: 339758 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HobbyBox" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 15 Aug 2006 20:34:59 -0700 Message-ID: <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Just out of curiosity, why is it better for the supply spool to be on end and stationary. I would have thought you would want it to be rotating, as well... other than the potential to overrun when the coiling is stopped. Won't the wire get bound up on that upper flange? And your comment about mics.. err... mikes.... is duly noted :) That will probably stick with me for life now. Thanks. Getting closer to getting this thing set up. -Nate Alan Douglas wrote: > Hi, > > > It was reading around .009", which > >lead me to believe it was around 30-31 AWG, > > You need to know exactly. An error of one wire size will lead to a > large error in turns and resistance. 50% error wouldn't surprise me. > You don't need to count turns, but they will affect the magnetic > field strength of the completed speaker. > > And do follow Neil's advice on the supply spool, which sits on end, > stationary, with the wire being taken off over the upper flange. > > Finally a small rant. A micrometer caliper, a microphone, or a > Michael, are all mike. Not mic. You don't say Mic rode his bic on > the turnpic. > > Alan Article: 339759 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 23:58:48 -0400 Message-ID: <12e56014gupqp76@corp.supernews.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> "HobbyBox" wrote in message news:1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > Just out of curiosity, why is it better for the supply spool to be on > end and stationary. I would have thought you would want it to be > rotating, as well... other than the potential to overrun when the > coiling is stopped. Won't the wire get bound up on that upper flange? No, it pours magically and smoothly off the end. If the supply spool rotates too, this just ads much more opportunity for breakage, which is already a big problem. John H. Article: 339760 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "RG" References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 00:17:26 -0400 In car audio "SQ" is the acronym for "sound quality". I think you just misunderstood it for something else. - RG "Steven" wrote in message news:1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > RG wrote: >> Huh .... you're joking, right ? >> >> - RG >> >> >> > SQ??? >> > >> > Why do you have a quad unit in your VW? How do you match it to the car >> > stereo? MOST of those things were like 15 w/channel rear amp with no >> > good preouts to do it right in your home (unless you do some creative >> > wiring)! > > He said "SQ", dammit. It's the only quad format I haven't got in my > young collection, although it's common as DIRT. SQ. invented by Sony, > discarded shortly and retrieved from the can by CBS. QS (Variomatrix) > invented by Sansui and the only one not tied to a company making > records, and CD-4, not a matrix but a signal with the rears stacked on > the fronts with a 30 kHz pilot to tell the unit to separate them, > needed a really good cartridge with response to maybe 50 kHz. Problem > being, while discrete, the record when damaged wouldn't work as well. > > No, I was not kidding...explain your acronym. These things weren't > exactly car stereo stuff. They were for RECORDS. Tapes were discrete > and records are not a car medium. > Article: 339761 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Silvertone knobs needed & a tip? Date: 15 Aug 2006 21:21:41 -0700 Message-ID: <1155702101.066535.303580@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: MarkS wrote: > Hi All, > I'm trying to find two knobs for my latest find, a gold round dial 4585 > Silvertone floor radio. These knobs actually have their functions written on > them. I am missing the volume & tone knobs, I have the band, tuning and > selectivity (cool feature). I got this radio for a reasonable price on > ebay...it wasn't in the collectible or consumer electronics sections, it was > in the antique section; my wife found it! Might want to look there once in > awhile. Considering what these Silvertone round dial radios go for these > days, I think I did pretty well. The vendor even delivered it to me blanket > wrapped for $50 from Maine, I live in NJ. The radio is in excellent > condition. All original tubes with their Silvertone labels except the 5Y3. > The original 6G5 even lights up bright. Knowing my luck, the radio is cheap > but the knobs are priceless!! Anyone know of a source for the flanged rubber > gromments used to isolate the chassis from the cabinet? > Thanks, > MarkS No, I don't think the radio will be cheap : ) There have been many discussions about using silicone or other sealant materials and making a mold so you can slice it and put a hole in it yourself, but as for dyeing it or painting it the right color??? Someone who's not ready for bed will chime in with a reference soon, and nice find! Article: 339762 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 15 Aug 2006 21:23:47 -0700 Message-ID: <1155702227.395409.313150@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> RG wrote: > In car audio "SQ" is the acronym for "sound quality". > > I think you just misunderstood it for something else. > > - RG > > > "Steven" wrote in message > news:1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > > > RG wrote: > >> Huh .... you're joking, right ? > >> > >> - RG Probably because I don't drive anymore but I always used and fixed up 1980s Delcos. Article: 339763 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "AuroraOldRadios" Subject: Re: Philco 610 Date: 15 Aug 2006 21:34:25 -0700 Message-ID: <1155702865.396238.300850@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155610189.034416.261290@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> pgonshor@aol.com wrote: > Working on a Philco 610. 5 tube circuit (predessor of the AA5 I > guess). 3 bands. Great performance. Nothing beats good coils. > Trouble is, coils didn't sell radios, tube count did. I've had sets > like this that performed better than 9 tube radios. Comments? > Dave There are a lot of variables. The Philco 610/37-610/38-10 series seems to perform quite well. However, I've had different examples of 5/6 tubes Zeniths that varied greatly in performance. Some were only fair, others exceptional. My 6S128 and others with the same chassis like 6S152 have been fair to good but never exceptional. I don't think quality control of assembly or parts was that good. In some cases the additional tubes of 9/10/11/12 tubers were fluff that added little or nothing to the tuner section. In others, there were 3 or 4 gang tuners, separate osc. tube, better mixer tube, better quality coils with complete adjustment, etc. Preselector sections on the tuner were common on 1934/35/36 and then almost never seen after that. Maybe Philco decided that better coils with better performance were worth the extra couple of pennies per chassis. If you have a 620 you could compare their performance. 620 should be better with a tuned RF stage. Theoretically... Article: 339764 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:19:45 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Peter Wieck wrote: > 60s junk then, 60s junk now. > More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood. As most of the consumer audio business gravitated toward the pacific rim, this is the one area of mass-produced consumer electronics where USA manufacturers remained competitive and respected. I have NEVER heard a speaker system from Japan that sounded even as good as units that any US no-name manufacturer could produce. The Japanese put out some fairly decent sounding gear in the 1970s, but when it came to speaker design they were almost universally clueless. The only exception was Pioneer, and then only as a supplier of speaker elements for other manufacturers. -Scott Article: 339765 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:29:30 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <--qdnfqBHO1xaXzZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com> Mark Oppat wrote: > my guess is this is an export only model. In the 30's RCA used the model > code Q to designate such sets, there might have been a code for GE sets > too. > > do you own it? No lable inside at all? Or, underneath? > > its definitely 40's era, probably late 40's and it has a ballast only > because its an export set. That way they could put different ballasts > depending on the local voltage. > Almost definitely an export model. The Longwave band and zillions of european cities on the dial is a dead giveaway. For the owner's sake, I hope it is easier to find a schematic for than the Zenith export-only sets. Those seem to exist not at all. -Scott Article: 339766 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "RG" References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155702227.395409.313150@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Message-ID: <7xxEg.495$sM1.323@read1.cgocable.net> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 00:53:20 -0400 Speaking of Delcos, I remember the Delcos and such from the '60's. Those things were huge. Automotive art, some of them. Some of the early '60's ones still had tubes in them if I remember correctly. My dad's '67 Ford Galaxy had something similar to the Delcos. It even had an aftermarket 8 track bolted under the dash. State of the art back in the day .... - RG "Steven" wrote in message news:1155702227.395409.313150@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > RG wrote: >> In car audio "SQ" is the acronym for "sound quality". >> >> I think you just misunderstood it for something else. >> >> - RG >> >> >> "Steven" wrote in message >> news:1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... >> > >> > RG wrote: >> >> Huh .... you're joking, right ? >> >> >> >> - RG > > Probably because I don't drive anymore but I always used and fixed up > 1980s Delcos. > Article: 339767 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 15 Aug 2006 21:57:55 -0700 Message-ID: <1155704275.273364.93700@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> My mother doesn't like the idea of me starting a collection either. Article: 339768 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 15 Aug 2006 21:58:11 -0700 Message-ID: <1155704291.753251.130140@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> My mother doesn't like the idea of me starting a collection either. Article: 339769 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: James Sweet Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED References: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 05:09:26 GMT jakdedert wrote: > ken scharf wrote: > >> William Sommerwerck wrote: >> >>>> Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll >>>> "flicker" >>>> at 60 cps, "on" for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle. >>>> Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns "on" at the peak of every half >>>> cycle (ie, it flickers 120 times a second). >>> >>> Then use a full-wave rectifier to drive the LEDs. >>> >>> Actually, a neon bulb comes on when theres about 60V to 70V across >>> it. The >>> series resistor keeps it from being damaged. >>> >>> >> Actually what's wrong with just using a neon bulb? >> NE-2's are cheap and easy to find. You can build a dc-ac inverter >> to get the needed 90v from a 5-12v supply. >> > ...at which point it becomes cheaper (and more reliable) to use an LED. > > jak > Sometimes there's just no substitute for the authentic neon glow. I always use neon bulbs as indicators in the nixie tube clocks I build, of course at that point I already have a suitable HV source. For a couple neon lamps though the power source is far less critical, ready made inverters can be had for free from disposable camera flashes or made with a simple oscillator. Article: 339770 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 22:03:48 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155679748.474995.186400@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> On 15 Aug 2006 15:09:08 -0700, "AB9GO" wrote: >Yep. Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups. The nice thing >is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!! Few if any >"Made in Japan" speakers from that era are worth much of anything. ..and sound like absolute crap. I've NEVER heard a good loudspeaker that was made in Asia anywhere. Tin ears over there, and tons and tons of "by rote" engineers. 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Until I thought : What the hell!, only $6. What's $6 and a couple of minutes of my time to solve my money problems. !!!!! REMEMBER !!!!! Follow every step, and IT WILL WORK, TRUST ME. !!!!! !!!!! BEST WISHES AND GOOD LUCK !!!!! w)O>+;)<9UVS;F>qaGL Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 15 Aug 2006 23:18:29 -0700 Message-ID: <1155709109.417512.219610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > My mother doesn't like the idea of me starting a collection either. It's not a collection in my case. It's a small pile : ) Show her what you learn and how it can make you a better worker with any skills you learn. Or just impress the girls that you are "handy". John Goller actually found one as handy as he was : ) But what I mean is involve your mother in small ways that show her you do something worthwhile, not just gather a pile of spendy, dusty sets. Mothers don't seem to be impressed by radios unless they had one they favored, and my mom doesn't fathom that the pile kept me going all last winter by my fixing and selling/trading things (solid state but it's true). Something kept my head above water at least. Article: 339773 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 16 Aug 2006 00:19:15 -0700 Message-ID: <1155712755.544324.98030@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155589060.280485.132140@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Gotten rid of that Calstan. I don't like transistor sets. I'm keeping tabs on a valve radio on eBay, that 'Operatic' set I linked to. My mother isn't interested in radios and never will be. Me and my uncle are the only ones who are. Article: 339774 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "JOHN D" References: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Message-ID: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 09:33:49 GMT My computer won't connect to www.dialcover.com Is there a problem with the site or is it just me? Article: 339775 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Graywolf" References: <8942-44E277AF-376@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 05:35:28 -0400 "ken scharf" wrote in message news:NrvEg.15992$qd.15138@bignews3.bellsouth.net... > Bill Sheppard wrote: > Hmmm, guess the made in China bulbs don't have quite as much Neon in > them as the old ones or the glass is thinner... > You know when a neon bulb has reached the end of life when it won't > light in the dark, but does in the daytime. I have a few > neon night lights that used to work in the dark, but now just flicker a > bit. Old Neon lamps had a trace of radioactivity in the electrodes to help ionize the gas. In most modern Neon bulbs, this is no longer present. Light does the same thing as the radiation, it helps ionize the gas and hence a lower voltage can fire the lamp. 73, Barry WA4VZQ WA4VZQ@ARRL.NET Article: 339776 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: 16 Aug 2006 03:09:15 -0700 Message-ID: <1155722955.914109.207010@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net> JOHN D wrote: > My computer won't connect to www.dialcover.com > Is there a problem with the site or is it just me? One cute girl and her knee stockings (hubba) coming up! YEAH IT'S YOU Article: 339777 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 16 Aug 2006 03:18:37 -0700 Message-ID: <1155723517.659017.185560@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155593320.358871.166770@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > Gotten rid of that Calstan. I don't like transistor sets. I'm keeping > tabs on a valve radio on eBay, that 'Operatic' set I linked to. My > mother isn't interested in radios and never will be. Me and my uncle > are the only ones who are. Article: 339778 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: 16 Aug 2006 03:20:05 -0700 Message-ID: <1155723605.508818.267820@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net> JOHN D wrote: > My computer won't connect to www.dialcover.com > Is there a problem with the site or is it just me? One cute girl and her knee stockings (hubba) coming up! YEAH IT'S YOU Article: 339779 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: 16 Aug 2006 03:20:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1155723640.682089.195780@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net> JOHN D wrote: > My computer won't connect to www.dialcover.com > Is there a problem with the site or is it just me? One cute girl and her knee stockings (hubba) coming up! YEAH IT'S YOU Article: 339780 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "duty-honor-country" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:24:47 -0700 Message-ID: <1155727487.622901.70480@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> AB9GO wrote: > Yep. Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups. The nice thing > is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!! Few if any > "Made in Japan" speakers from that era are worth much of anything. You leave out I paid $50 for the speakers and the Kenwood amp- and sold the amp for $100 Article: 339781 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "duty-honor-country" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:26:25 -0700 Message-ID: <1155727585.186704.178400@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> RG wrote: > That may true to a certain extent, but not in the all encompassing sense > that you stated. I can think of more than a "few" made in Japan speakers > from that era that are highly sought after, and for good reason. In fact, I > have a pair of mint Yamaha NS-690II's that are completely at odds with your > statement. Newer is NOT always better. The JVC's I do not know about. I have > never listened to them. But that is the point, unless you have actually > listened to them, broad brush stements such as the one you made are just > opinions based on (probably) heresay and nothing more. Of course, this has > nothing to do with the intent of Nudo's post but I thought I would offer an > opposing opinion to the one in your statement .. just for the record. good post- for the record, older speakers have superior cabinets Article: 339782 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "duty-honor-country" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:27:10 -0700 Message-ID: <1155727630.505425.169340@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> DeserTBoB wrote: > On 15 Aug 2006 15:09:08 -0700, "AB9GO" wrote: > > >Yep. Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups. The nice thing > >is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!! Few if any > >"Made in Japan" speakers from that era are worth much of anything. > > ..and sound like absolute crap. I've NEVER heard a good loudspeaker > that was made in Asia anywhere. Tin ears over there, and tons and > tons of "by rote" engineers. yet you drive a 1970's Honda car today...and rave about it Article: 339783 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "duty-honor-country" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:29:08 -0700 Message-ID: <1155727748.375678.195090@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> RG wrote: > Why is that ? > > I have a JVC KD-SH9750 HU in my GTI that I would not dream of replacing. It > is by far the best sounding HU I have ever had ... and I have had most of > the top of the line HU's at one time or another. In fact, I have top of the > line Alpines sitting on the shelf right now because they just can't touch > this JVC in SQ (and I have tried them). So is your statement general in > nature or aimed at specific offerings from JVC ? > > - RG good post- I rest my case- these guys knock stuff they never heard before- signs of a small mind Article: 339784 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:31:41 -0700 Message-ID: <1155727901.317216.212470@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Scott W. Harvey wrote: > Peter Wieck wrote: > > 60s junk then, 60s junk now. > > > More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very > much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so > it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more > conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood. > > As most of the consumer audio business gravitated toward the pacific > rim, this is the one area of mass-produced consumer electronics where > USA manufacturers remained competitive and respected. I have NEVER heard > a speaker system from Japan that sounded even as good as units that any > US no-name manufacturer could produce. > > The Japanese put out some fairly decent sounding gear in the 1970s, but > when it came to speaker design they were almost universally clueless. > The only exception was Pioneer, and then only as a supplier of speaker > elements for other manufacturers. > > -Scott This is going to be a playground fight before too long. Let the recess monitor handle it, I'm going back to the library. Article: 339785 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:33:04 -0700 Message-ID: <1155727984.323093.206180@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Steven wrote: > Scott W. Harvey wrote: > > Peter Wieck wrote: > > > 60s junk then, 60s junk now. > > > > > More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very > > much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so > > it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more > > conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood. > > > > As most of the consumer audio business gravitated toward the pacific > > rim, this is the one area of mass-produced consumer electronics where > > USA manufacturers remained competitive and respected. I have NEVER heard > > a speaker system from Japan that sounded even as good as units that any > > US no-name manufacturer could produce. > > > > The Japanese put out some fairly decent sounding gear in the 1970s, but > > when it came to speaker design they were almost universally clueless. > > The only exception was Pioneer, and then only as a supplier of speaker > > elements for other manufacturers. > > > > -Scott > > This is going to be a playground fight before too long. Let the recess > monitor handle it, I'm going back to the library. At least my Lycos email server is apparently down, so I won't have to block any spam for a while... Article: 339786 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: What Are You Bringing to Kutztown 9/22-23/06 ? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:42:53 -0400 Message-ID: <12e6166e11m2v7e@corp.supernews.com> I finally figured out there's not enough room in my van to camp AND bring down enough stuff next month to Kutztown. So I'm planning on staying at friends near Cooperstown or a motel and filling her right up. Here's an early list of what's will be available. As my collecting focus has sharpened I'm doing a major trimming of backstock. The list posted here will of course never be complete as I'll throw in more as I pack. The following will be or are recapped and restored and fair retail price- Zenith 770, 75 consoles Philco 16B cathedral Philco 116 tombstone Silvertone model 1942 tombstone (the last 3 can be seen on my site http://home.att.net/~yonny) The rest are in excellent to good condition generally and unrestored, quite reasonable- Philco 41-300, 89 consoles Westinghouse WR330 console GE "Locomotive" TV GE M-61 tombstone Lafayette table set (SW/AM wood sliderule) Pair Victor VV-4-3 phonos, crank and electric (fixer ups, both work) Edison C-150 phono (decent, working) I also have a rough but complete Edison H-19 if anyone had interest otherwise that one will be refinished for next year or keeping. Contact me if you have specific interests in any of the above. Thanks. John H. Article: 339787 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Jeffrey Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:44:48 GMT HobbyBox wrote: > I'd be interested in the write-up. I was just trying to figure out > the best way to setup this winding jig, and not have it be to > hack-ish. > Bill Jeffrey wrote: > >> Yup, I did a G-3 a while back. I could probably find the writeup >> if anyone cares. Posted on the binaries (ABPR) - about 45KB. I can't figure out where I posted it - I thought it was NostalgiaAir - but I can't find it, so this is the original. Bill Article: 339788 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "William Sommerwerck" References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155679748.474995.186400@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155727630.505425.169340@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 05:01:21 -0700 Message-ID: > ...and sound like absolute crap. I've NEVER heard a good loudspeaker > that was made in Asia anywhere. Tin ears over there, and tons and > tons of "by rote" engineers. STAX made some wonderful electrostatic speakers. But, given halfway-decent engineering, it's hard to make a bad electrostatic. The Japanese speakers of that era struck me as having timbral colorations reminiscent of Japanese musical instruments. Whether this was intentional (to exaggerate the particular qualities of instruments) or accidental (because the instrumental sound masked such colorations), I don't know. Article: 339789 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "the MAGNATE" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:11:46 -0700 Message-ID: <1155730306.576586.197200@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> AB9GO wrote: > Yep. Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups. The nice thing > is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!! Few if any > "Made in Japan" speakers from that era are worth much of anything. correction- DESERTBOOB crossposted it to 9 groups- not me- look for yourself. Article: 339790 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:13:16 -0700 Message-ID: <1155730396.451685.156290@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155593320.358871.166770@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> A lot of people reply to messages like you just did. What's the point of it? I have always been confused by that? Oh by the way, I have changed my email address, so it is me, not an imposter. Too much spam in the other one. Article: 339791 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:18:42 -0700 Message-ID: <1155730722.755059.225400@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1155616831.353609.131240@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> I tried to bid on an excellent Bush brand Bakelite radio from the 1930's or '40's, but missed it by just one minute. Damn. The only cosmetic problem was a large crack on the bottom, but that I could have fixed. Oh well, that's life I guess. If I win the bid on the 'Operatic' radio, I will take pictures, and post them on to Flickr, to show of my first tube radio. May even attempt to restore it. Article: 339792 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mike Koste" Subject: Re: What Are You Bringing to Kutztown 9/22-23/06 ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:19:36 -0700 Message-ID: <1155730776.066379.194020@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <12e6166e11m2v7e@corp.supernews.com> Haven't added any new major stock in over a year, so if anyone has radio knobs in bulk they'd like to unload, by all means bring them along. And if you need a particular knob, pack a sample: Makes it a lot easier to find than a verbal description. ("Well, it's round and about this big....") Mike Koste Gobs of Knobs Ambler, PA Article: 339793 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner) Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:10:54 -0500 Message-ID: <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> FIRST COMPLAINT CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com Bill Turner, excuse caps, short answers, stroke. Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide. Article: 339794 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:26:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1155731200.243899.136830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155616831.353609.131240@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > A lot of people reply to messages like you just did. What's the point > of it? I have always been confused by that? Oh by the way, I have > changed my email address, so it is me, not an imposter. Too much spam > in the other one. Google has quirks and if it's 4 am in Oregon, probably not the best thing to work through. I tried to post something and their server got cranky because I use the F5 (refresh) key impatiently. It is stupid and thinks I am a spammer, so it makes me type in a trick word to prove I'm human, then it doesn't post anyway and gives me a blank reply form--GRRR! I went back through the browser history (cache) and swore I found it, didn't copy the text and ended up sending that to boot. On top of that I found the send page for another post and ended up resending it a couple times... On top of that my email server for the account you see had problems all night (still a bit slow). I harbor no malice. Google? I don't know. Just hang in there. My friend in Melbourne is in the middle of his afternoon somewhere towards the middle of my night. A little time difference. If you get fairly instant answers from me it likely means I'm up too much, oh well. Article: 339795 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:41:56 -0700 Message-ID: <1155732116.792934.191540@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> Bill Turner wrote: > FIRST COMPLAINT > > > CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com > Bill Turner, excuse caps, short answers, stroke. > Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide. I explained it to Dave H. that I was looking for a certain page in History for my IE browser and it fired off two more sends without my approval. Google's fault as it was their code. I'm gonna tear this thing down and put a bigger C: in soon anyway so I don't use a 3 GB drive that tells me it's almost full a lot after some time. I've got a 13.5 and a 40 GB and an IDE ATA-100 so can add a DVD drive too. But I'm tired and Lycos' email server was bummed out all night. I've got to find a yard sale and sell stuff PDQ and I need to get one more receiver ready AND SLEEP. I use F5 too much and when Google makes me fill in a Captcha, it still gives me a blank form, hence all the fun. They don't bother Nudo and Nudo II, mind you. Google must be full of Yahoos! Article: 339796 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:50:43 -0500 Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? From: John Stone Message-ID: References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155679748.474995.186400@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> On 8/15/06 9:02 PM, in article h1vEg.484$sM1.127@read1.cgocable.net, "RG" wrote: > That may true to a certain extent, but not in the all encompassing sense > that you stated. I can think of more than a "few" made in Japan speakers > from that era that are highly sought after, and for good reason. In fact, I > have a pair of mint Yamaha NS-690II's that are completely at odds with your > statement. Well, I'd like to know what they are, other than a few Yamahas like the NS1000 that stood out at the time. BTW, a number of well reviewed Yamaha speakers weren't designed or built in Japan. They used European drivers and were built in the USA. >Newer is NOT always better. In fact, where loudspeakers are concerned-at least reputable ones-newer IS nearly always better. Newer may not always be sonically preferred, but that is another issue. The fact is that loudspeaker design has advanced dramatically in the past 15-20 years. Part of this is due to advancement in materials, but the big change is in the ability to use CAD and FEA programs for simulation of cones, motor structures, cabinet design, and crossover topology. Prior to this, all of these areas came down to "cut and try". It was hard enough back then to just get reasonable frequency response, much less low distortion or good dispersion. Just run a frequency response sweep between a 1970's design and a good modern speaker. You'll see a big difference. > The JVC's I do not know about. I have > never listened to them. I have. They're awful. Just look at the configuration of the drivers. There's no acoustical design expertise at all to these. Article: 339797 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Lyndell Scott" References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:04:37 GMT BILL, IF YOU INTERPRETED MY COMMENTS AS A COMPLAINT, THEN I APPOLOGIZE. I DID NOT MEAN IT THAT WAY AT ALL AND WILL FOLLOW YOUR INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY THE NEXT TIME I MAKE A DIAL COVER. I MUCH APPRECIATE YOUR WILLINGNESS TO SHARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH OTHERS. -- Lyndell Scott Audio Antiques http://geocities.com/lfscott@flash.net Article: 339798 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? From: 0junk4me@bellsouth.net References: Message-ID: <8UEEg.15351$0k4.9591@bignews1.bellsouth.net> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:15:48 GMT On 2006-08-16 1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net said: >0junk4me@bellsouth.net wrote: >> THe first letter in JVC stands for Junk. >> WHy you'd post this to newsgroups where audio production >> professionals hang is beyond me. THIs stuff is utter crap >> pure and simple. >> Back under your rock please. >Uh, having a bad night Richard? NOted this same poster posted in alt.audio.pro.live-sound, where I can't see any relevance whatsoever to this consumer junk. NEver found JVC components anywhere that I liked. NEver really experienced their autosound stuff, I don't do aftermarket car audio. IF it's too loud to hear the engine running it doesn't play in any vehicle I own as listening to the engine gives me first hints of real trouble down the road. NOw back to JVC home audio components: GUitar player I worked with brought a JVC cassette deck over for me to use for dubbing from half track to cassette many years ago. EVerything played back or recorded on that deck sounded like pure mud, but it had a lot of fancy features and faceplate looked cool. My old venerable Pioneer 9191 had died after many years of faithful service. Bought another Sharp, it performed well, sounded much better than the JVC. friend of mine had a JVC receiver. NOT well built, anemic amplifier, and was supposed to be well matched with the JVC speakers he bought too. OToh I had a Sansui integrated receiver amp which was built like a tank. uSEd it for years, a lightning strike finally finished it off after a decade of good service cranking out rock 'n roll for hours at a time. IIRC specs were like 100 watts into an 8 ohm load. THat bad boy cooked until the lightning got it. Just never liked their stuff, and don't think I ever saw any JVC gear in a pro live sound rig, or in any studio I've been in either. Richard webb, Electric Spider Productions Replace anything before the @ symbol with elspider for real email address. "In some hands, all the knobs are suck knobs." -- Jay Kadis Article: 339799 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "m82a1pa" Subject: WTB: Philco Bakelite Cap Block Date: 16 Aug 2006 06:38:52 -0700 Message-ID: <1155735532.576360.280300@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Folks - I need a bakelite block for cosmetically restoring a Philco 551. I could use the 3615-C or 3615-AS (later replacement). It'd be nice to get the long screw and washer for it as well. Let me know if you have one and the shipped price to 17402. TIA Article: 339800 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:39:58 -0600 Message-ID: <6323-44E3202E-4@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net> References: Actually i go without till i have to have one then i make it . Cutting out the wood and getting it perfect is the hardest or longest part . I do not use the oven . It causes bubbles in the plastic . Article: 339801 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mike Koste" Subject: Re: Silvertone knobs needed & a tip? Date: 16 Aug 2006 06:59:36 -0700 Message-ID: <1155736776.102507.84460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: Mark: Come see me at Kutztown. I probably have the knobs you need. Mike Koste Gobs of Knobs Ambler, PA Article: 339802 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:51:42 -0600 Message-ID: <6322-44E322EE-8@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net> References: I bet all restored with a good color better knobs and a great looking big decal on the front would make that pig look real neet . Article: 339803 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:19:09 GMT "Lyndell Scott" wrote in message news:FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com... > BILL, > IF YOU INTERPRETED MY COMMENTS AS A COMPLAINT, THEN I APPOLOGIZE. I DID NOT MEAN IT > THAT WAY AT ALL AND WILL FOLLOW YOUR INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY THE NEXT TIME I MAKE A > DIAL COVER. I MUCH APPRECIATE YOUR WILLINGNESS TO SHARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH OTHERS. I don't think Bill was responding to you Lyndell. If you look at the posting tree, you'll see that Bill was responding to "JOHN D" who reported that he was having trouble accessing Bill's website. Apparently JOHN D is the first to report any problem opening the site to Bill. FWIW, the site opens fine for me. jim menning Article: 339804 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED References: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <%QFEg.17237$Nx4.5884@bignews8.bellsouth.net> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 09:22:02 -0500 James Sweet wrote: >>> Actually what's wrong with just using a neon bulb? >>> NE-2's are cheap and easy to find. You can build a dc-ac inverter >>> to get the needed 90v from a 5-12v supply. >>> >> ...at which point it becomes cheaper (and more reliable) to use an LED. >> >> jak >> > > > Sometimes there's just no substitute for the authentic neon glow. I > always use neon bulbs as indicators in the nixie tube clocks I build, of > course at that point I already have a suitable HV source. For a couple > neon lamps though the power source is far less critical, ready made > inverters can be had for free from disposable camera flashes or made > with a simple oscillator. > There's still the reliability factor, but good idea on salvaging camera flashes.... Article: 339805 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 09:30:20 -0500 HobbyBox wrote: > Just out of curiosity, why is it better for the supply spool to be on > end and stationary. I would have thought you would want it to be > rotating, as well... other than the potential to overrun when the > coiling is stopped. Won't the wire get bound up on that upper flange? Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be mandatory. Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken off the spool. That would eventually make an enormous mess. > And your comment about mics.. err... mikes.... is duly noted :) That > will probably stick with me for life now. > > Thanks. Getting closer to getting this thing set up. > -Nate > > Alan Douglas wrote: >> Hi, >> >>> It was reading around .009", which >>> lead me to believe it was around 30-31 AWG, >> You need to know exactly. An error of one wire size will lead to a >> large error in turns and resistance. 50% error wouldn't surprise me. >> You don't need to count turns, but they will affect the magnetic >> field strength of the completed speaker. >> >> And do follow Neil's advice on the supply spool, which sits on end, >> stationary, with the wire being taken off over the upper flange. >> >> Finally a small rant. A micrometer caliper, a microphone, or a >> Michael, are all mike. Not mic. You don't say Mic rode his bic on >> the turnpic. Sorry, microphones are 'mics' according to those who use and write about them regularly. You can rant all you want, but that's pretty much the way it is. Mike doesn't care... >> >> Alan > > Article: 339806 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Terry S" Subject: Re: Russian/Eastern European wire radios Date: 16 Aug 2006 07:40:02 -0700 Message-ID: <1155739202.552432.236390@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Jiri, I'd like to see photos of your find... as I'm interested in wire radios. Actual nixie tubes? Made in the 90's? Another are of interest for me. Terry. Jiri Placek wrote: > That was a topic here some time ago. I just returned from Europe with > a sophisticated soviet three-channel receiver ALTAIR PT-204 that was > apparently made in 1990's. It is a 220 V unit that received 30 V, > two-wire signal. It was made after 1988 as there is a reference to the > standard GOST18286-88. It consists of two units - one is digital alarm > clock with a nixie display and the other one amplified wire radio > receiver for three programs. I suspect that two of those three audio > signals were at the distribution station heterodyned to ultrasonic > frequencies and then converted back to audio signal in the receiver. > There are three knobs on the back side that appear to be tunable traps, > perhaps for harmonic frequencies. > > It is amazing that such wire radio was made even in 1990's when there > was already a good FM signal coverage and people were not driven nuts > by AM interference that eventually lead them to wire radio. > > Another amazing detail are the plugs that are of the same desing for > both 220 V power and for the 30 V audio signal. I wonder how many > units were fried.... > > I tried to find some info on either the technical standard for this > multi-signal system or schematics of the radio itself but I have failed > so far. I will appreciate any lead. > > Jiri Placek > Boyertown, PA Article: 339807 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 09:42:34 -0500 Scott W. Harvey wrote: > Peter Wieck wrote: >> 60s junk then, 60s junk now. >> > More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very > much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so > it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more > conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood. > OTOH, when Pioneer wanted a killer speaker, they hired away JBL's chief designer to come up with the HPM series...flagship offering being the HPM 100. This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the JBL L-100's (designed by the same fellow), which were among the most popular speakers of the time. I've got a pair of these and they're brilliant. The cab's are nearly 1 1/2" thick, generously braced internally; carbon fiber woofers...kick serious butt at all volumes. Each speaker weighs in at around 60 lbs. and listed for something like $800 a pair in 1977 dollars. As the decade closed, they began to use cheaper materials and cheapen the design...becoming more like the Japanese speakers you describe. The later HPM series were not the same. jak Article: 339808 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave McClellan" References: Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 10:58:07 -0400 If you decide to strip and repaint, try this FIRST. My Tradio (TU-6 IIRC) was also painted some God awful color. For some reason I started cleaning it off with lacquer thinner. It not only removed the paint, but the original baked on finish was not affected, and EVEN THE TRADIO DECAL was unaffected! Mine was the same shape as yours, but had a 6-tube chassis with untuned RF amp. It had two white knobs, both right below the dial scale. As others have said, these were made by different companies and had different chassis. Does yours have the back, lock (and key) and coin mechanism intact? Dave "Syl" wrote in message news:vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net... > No model, brand or label anywhere. > > Steel cabinet. > > There is something handwritten on the speaker OPT, "watterson". > Hard to tell if it bears any relation to the radio. Simple octal AA5 using a > field coil speaker with the number 700 stamped on the back. > Reminds me of an Emerson speaker or a Philco. > > http://www.oldradioz.com/temp/coin_radio.jpg > > Any help IDing the model and/or actual manufacturer would be welcome. > > Syl > P.S. I did search Watterson, but nothing about coin operated radios. > > Article: 339809 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:43:25 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155702227.395409.313150@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <7xxEg.495$sM1.323@read1.cgocable.net> On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 00:53:20 -0400, "RG" wrote: >Speaking of Delcos, I remember the Delcos and such from the '60's. Those >things were huge. Automotive art, some of them. Some of the early '60's ones >still had tubes in them if I remember correctly. My dad's '67 Ford Galaxy >had something similar to the Delcos. It even had an aftermarket 8 track >bolted under the dash. State of the art back in the day .... This guy obviously doesn't know his ass from a water balloon. Article: 339810 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: FART....radio! Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 08:01:39 -0700 Message-ID: <6820-44E33353-8@storefull-3176.bay.webtv.net> References: <3701-44E27C45-933@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> >That's not a nice thing to say about >Italian radios.Shame! > cuhulin Right! Flatulence will get you nowhere. Or is that 'flatulencio'? :-) oc Article: 339811 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <8HGEg.862$Cs3.536@tornado.socal.rr.com> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 15:18:28 GMT jakdedert wrote: > Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be > mandatory. Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken > off the spool. That would eventually make an enormous mess. Perhaps with larger gauge wire. With smaller gauges, the wire is fedd off of the end of the spool and fed between a pair of felt pinch clamps to adjust the tension. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 339812 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <12e6166e11m2v7e@corp.supernews.com> <1155730776.066379.194020@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: What Are You Bringing to Kutztown 9/22-23/06 ? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:23:26 -0400 Message-ID: Mike's right... PLEASE bring your samples, or clear pix off the internet or anything visual showing the knobs you need! Knob humor...(honest, this is how it goes at my booth!) Mr X: "I need a knob for a GE... its kinda brown, and has ridges... Me: "what year? What model?" Mr X: (while scanning all my trays) "oh, I dont know, you know, it has that big dial on it...." Me: did you bring a sample? Or, I have several radio books here, maybe we can see it.... Mr X: you know, maybe its not a GE, it might be a Westinghouse....but it has those ridges on it, ya know?" Me: (stabbing myself....) AAAAHHHHHH!!!!! And, I will second Mike's statement about knobs... if you have a box lot you are not using, PLEASE sell it to one of us, so the knobs get to where they need to be. No use hoarding them because you will never have the one you want anyways, you can always buy the exact right one from one of us when you need it. In the mean time, you get $$$ for the knobs you have now. Its worth it to save some of the most common ones like Philco, Zenith or such, but if you are not doing 50+ sets a year, its probably not going to do you much good. And, you are helping many others find the knob they need by selling to an active knob expert. Mark Oppat "Mike Koste" wrote in message news:1155730776.066379.194020@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > Haven't added any new major stock in over a year, so if anyone has > radio knobs in bulk they'd like to unload, by all means bring them > along. And if you need a particular knob, pack a sample: Makes it a lot > easier to find than a verbal description. ("Well, it's round and about > this big....") > > > Mike Koste > Gobs of Knobs > Ambler, PA > > Article: 339813 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: Subject: Re: Silvertone knobs needed & a tip? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:29:36 -0400 Message-ID: Mark, GREAT find! I'm a Silvertone fan. there are MANY knobs for Silvertone in 1937. Depending on the set, any knob can come in either the larger diameter or the smaller, and the functions called out can vary a lot. I think on your set the volume is also the on/off switch and is a small knob? Is the tone a larger knob? these are all dark brown plastic, too. Mark "MarkS" wrote in message news:COvEg.8425$xp2.1393@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... > Hi All, > I'm trying to find two knobs for my latest find, a gold round dial 4585 > Silvertone floor radio. These knobs actually have their functions written on > them. I am missing the volume & tone knobs, I have the band, tuning and > selectivity (cool feature). I got this radio for a reasonable price on > ebay...it wasn't in the collectible or consumer electronics sections, it was > in the antique section; my wife found it! Might want to look there once in > awhile. Considering what these Silvertone round dial radios go for these > days, I think I did pretty well. The vendor even delivered it to me blanket > wrapped for $50 from Maine, I live in NJ. The radio is in excellent > condition. All original tubes with their Silvertone labels except the 5Y3. > The original 6G5 even lights up bright. Knowing my luck, the radio is cheap > but the knobs are priceless!! Anyone know of a source for the flanged rubber > gromments used to isolate the chassis from the cabinet? > Thanks, > MarkS > > > Article: 339814 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: WTB: Philco Bakelite Cap Block References: <1155735532.576360.280300@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:34:01 -0400 I have a 3615D, 2 lugs+one gnd., will that do? $3 + postage Ken m82a1pa wrote: > Folks - I need a bakelite block for cosmetically restoring a Philco > 551. I could use the 3615-C or 3615-AS (later replacement). It'd be > nice to get the long screw and washer for it as well. Let me know if > you have one and the shipped price to 17402. TIA > Article: 339815 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga> Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:05:02 -0400 "Dave McClellan" wrote in message news:4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga... >I had one like that which was branded "Tradio". > Thanks for the reply Dave. I got an answer on ARF about it. It is indeed a Tradio (The Hotel Radio) and I got links to a few other models, but none like mine. I'm on a lookout for a compatible coin mechanism and a lock. The lock doesn't seem to be a problem, but the mechanism might be. I'll restore, probably using hammertone grey. Sp far it looks like -someone commented- a concrete radio... Now I have to convince a certain website owner to take a good picture of the label >from his so I can replicate the label. So far it's butt ugly, but with some effort...Plus, the kidz will love dropping a dime or nickel to have the radio play... Those radio aren't too plentiful...Maybe once restored it'll be slightly more "attractive"... Syl Article: 339816 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio References: <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 15:38:52 GMT Syl wrote: > Those radio aren't too plentiful...Maybe once restored it'll be > slightly more "attractive"... Like putting a pretty bag over her head. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 339817 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:46:45 -0400 Message-ID: <6OudncEmjJqToH7ZnZ2dnUVZ_s-dnZ2d@comcast.com> "jakdedert" wrote : > Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be > mandatory. Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken > off the spool. That would eventually make an enormous mess. exactly. You dont want to take wire off the end of a spool much as it adds a twist. Now, in fine wire, will it matter? I'm not sure. I always use an axel for the supply. If the wire is a lightweight small spool, you can set it in the nest of a rag so it will spool off but give some resistance for tension. I do this for coils... sometimes I just put the spool in my lap. I know in romex wire for home wiring you NEVER do that. It makes a real mess of the wire. I learnt from a good electrician, set up an axel and hang your wire on it for spooling off. He had a rack of spools, so we had 12 and 14ga, also 3 way. Mark Oppat Article: 339818 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 16 Aug 2006 08:46:15 -0700 Message-ID: <1155743174.997400.155640@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Once the wire gets going, it's mass causes it to fly off the spool in a large bow as it feeds up to to the winder. That is why it is desireable to set it in a smooth plastic 5 gal bucket to keep the bow from swinging out far enough to snag something. On the professional winders in our factory the spools sat on end like thread spools on a sewing machine, and there was a clear plastic cone above them guiding the wire into the wire guide system. The change from end feed to despooling was around #20-24 ga depending on the machine and the coil being wound. The one turn per spool 'revolution' 'twist' on the small gauge wire has no effect whatever in handling, provided the light tension is not lost through the guides. Neil S. HobbyBox wrote: > Just out of curiosity, why is it better for the supply spool to be on > end and stationary. I would have thought you would want it to be > rotating, as well... other than the potential to overrun when the > coiling is stopped. Won't the wire get bound up on that upper flange? > > And your comment about mics.. err... mikes.... is duly noted :) That > will probably stick with me for life now. > > Thanks. Getting closer to getting this thing set up. > -Nate > > Alan Douglas wrote: > > Hi, > > > > > It was reading around .009", which > > >lead me to believe it was around 30-31 AWG, > > > > You need to know exactly. An error of one wire size will lead to a > > large error in turns and resistance. 50% error wouldn't surprise me. > > You don't need to count turns, but they will affect the magnetic > > field strength of the completed speaker. > > > > And do follow Neil's advice on the supply spool, which sits on end, > > stationary, with the wire being taken off over the upper flange. > > > > Finally a small rant. A micrometer caliper, a microphone, or a > > Michael, are all mike. Not mic. You don't say Mic rode his bic on > > the turnpic. > > > > Alan Article: 339819 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155743174.997400.155640@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <4jHEg.864$Cs3.820@tornado.socal.rr.com> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:01:04 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > exactly. You dont want to take wire off the end of a spool much as > it adds a twist. Now, in fine wire, will it matter? I'm not sure. > I always use an axel for the supply. If the wire is a lightweigh > small spool, you can set it in the nest of a rag so it will spool > off but give some resistance for tension. Per my comment earlier. When you have a 5-10 pound spool of #34 wire, on an axle, once it gets turning, it has a large amount of inertial energy. Additionally, when you first start the winding, the spool is at rest and you have to get it moving by pulling on the wire. Both situations are a recipe for disaster. nesesu wrote: > On the professional winders in our factory the spools sat on end like > thread spools on a sewing machine, and there was a clear plastic cone > above them guiding the wire into the wire guide system. The change from > end feed to despooling was around #20-24 ga depending on the machine > and the coil being wound. The one turn per spool 'revolution' 'twist' > on the small gauge wire has no effect whatever in handling, provided > the light tension is not lost through the guides. > > Neil S. I have the de-spooler here at the shop. The next step is to add a variable speed control to my lathe. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 339820 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mike Koste" Subject: Re: What Are You Bringing to Kutztown 9/22-23/06 ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 09:14:15 -0700 Message-ID: <1155744855.805902.281070@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <12e6166e11m2v7e@corp.supernews.com> And if they're printed with the numbers 2 thru 13, or with terms like "UHF", "Vert Hold", "Contrast", or "Brightness", please leave them at home, or sell them to Mark. I have more TV knobs than are allowed by law. Mike Koste Gobs of Knobs Ambler, PA Article: 339821 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:20:04 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <6322-44E322EE-8@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net> In <6322-44E322EE-8@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net> goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) writes: >I bet all restored with a good color better knobs and a great looking >big decal on the front would make that pig look real neet . Throw in a new cabinet, speaker grille, and dial and you might have something. Oh, yeah. Needs new feet, too. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339822 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Stamler" References: <8UEEg.15351$0k4.9591@bignews1.bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:23:36 GMT <0junk4me@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:8UEEg.15351$0k4.9591@bignews1.bellsouth.net... > Just never liked their stuff, and don't think I ever saw any > JVC gear in a pro live sound rig, or in any studio I've been > in either. They made the first digital recorder I heard that didn't sound horrible to me. It was used on some excellent early-80s Nonesuch recordings. Peace, Paul Article: 339823 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:24:00 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga> In "Syl" writes: >So far it's butt ugly, but with some effort...Plus, the kidz will love >dropping a dime or nickel to have the radio play... Just (mostly :) kidding about the fugly remarks, Syl. Coin-op stuff is cool. Remnants of a bygone era when all sorts of stuff would perform at the drop of a nickle, dime, or quarter. I've an extremely brief memory of a snippet from some old black & white sitcom where some suit walks in the public restroom and finds you have to deposit a coin for the mirror to roll down. Always wondered if anyone ever tried that. :) -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339824 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 12:05:24 -0400 "Dave McClellan" wrote in message news:uoGEg.63$M75.28@newsfe06.lga... > If you decide to strip and repaint, try this FIRST. My Tradio (TU-6 IIRC) > was also painted some God awful color. For some reason I started cleaning > it off with lacquer thinner. It not only removed the paint, but the > original baked on finish was not affected, and EVEN THE TRADIO DECAL was > unaffected! Mine was the same shape as yours, but had a 6-tube chassis > with > untuned RF amp. It had two white knobs, both right below the dial scale. > As others have said, these were made by different companies and had > different chassis. > > Does yours have the back, lock (and key) and coin mechanism intact? > > Dave Hi Dave, The back is there but the lock and coin mechanism are both missing. No label either on the front and it's almost like there was never one... The finish looks and _feel_ like concrete ! Really ! It's not caused by rust (although there are minute rust spots). The paint is baked-on and very close looks almost like weathered hammertone grey. Strange finish, and it is original, looking from the inside... Thinner does not affect the paint and stripper removes the "texture" and leaves a flat grey paint behind... Here's a link I got: http://pat.kagi.us/Pats-Arcade-Games-and-Player-Instruments/Picture_2620 Probably the same model you had ? Syl Article: 339825 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga> Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 12:07:15 -0400 "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message news:g_GEg.677$S_5.41@tornado.socal.rr.com... > > > Syl wrote: >> Those radio aren't too plentiful...Maybe once restored it'll be >> slightly more "attractive"... > > Like putting a pretty bag over her head. > > Jeff ...or take off my glasses... Syl Article: 339826 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Russian/Eastern European wire radios Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:59:52 GMT I don't think the original reason for wire radios had to do with reception. Rather, it was a means of ensuring that most citizens would listen to Soviet propaganda rather than to broadcasts from overseas that might lead them to believe that things are better on the other side of the curtain. Of course they may have used the reception issue as an excuse . . . -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Jiri Placek" wrote in message news:1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > That was a topic here some time ago. I just returned from Europe with > a sophisticated soviet three-channel receiver ALTAIR PT-204 that was > apparently made in 1990's. It is a 220 V unit that received 30 V, > two-wire signal. It was made after 1988 as there is a reference to the > standard GOST18286-88. It consists of two units - one is digital alarm > clock with a nixie display and the other one amplified wire radio > receiver for three programs. I suspect that two of those three audio > signals were at the distribution station heterodyned to ultrasonic > frequencies and then converted back to audio signal in the receiver. > There are three knobs on the back side that appear to be tunable traps, > perhaps for harmonic frequencies. > > It is amazing that such wire radio was made even in 1990's when there > was already a good FM signal coverage and people were not driven nuts > by AM interference that eventually lead them to wire radio. > > Another amazing detail are the plugs that are of the same desing for > both 220 V power and for the 30 V audio signal. I wonder how many > units were fried.... > > I tried to find some info on either the technical standard for this > multi-signal system or schematics of the radio itself but I have failed > so far. I will appreciate any lead. > > Jiri Placek > Boyertown, PA > Article: 339827 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" Subject: Pinging Mark Oppat Message-ID: <9bIEg.7394$Ji1.5295@trnddc05> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:00:53 GMT I've sent Mark a couple of e-mails with no response. Are you there? -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 339828 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Jeffrey Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155743174.997400.155640@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <4jHEg.864$Cs3.820@tornado.socal.rr.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:18:01 GMT Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > Mark Oppat wrote: > > > exactly. You dont want to take wire off the end of a spool much as > > it adds a twist. Now, in fine wire, will it matter? I'm not sure. > > I always use an axel for the supply. If the wire is a lightweigh > > small spool, you can set it in the nest of a rag so it will spool > > off but give some resistance for tension. > > Per my comment earlier. When you have a 5-10 pound spool of #34 > wire, on an axle, once it gets turning, it has a large amount of > inertial energy. Additionally, when you first start the winding, > the spool is at rest and you have to get it moving by pulling on > the wire. Both situations are a recipe for disaster. Jeff - Start-up shock wasn't a problem. I simply started the variac up slowly, and the motor has next to no torque at low voltage. Also as I noted, the rubber band drive belt provided LOTS of compliance. And even at full winding speed, the motor was never operated at anywhere near 120 VAC, in order to maintain low winding speed (150 RPM or so). You are right, though - once the supply spool was spinning, stopping it without unloading a bunch of wire onto the floor did seem like gymnastics. I finally found that I could simply maintina a bit of finger pressure on the supply spool flange. When a quick stop was needed (not very often, but occasionally), I could snap the variac to ZERO with one hand and apply finger pressure to the flange with the other, and stop things under good control. Make no mistake - this is not a professional machine, and if I had been out to wind 20 coils instead of only one, I would have put more time and money into designing and building a winder. But for a quickly-built, cheaply-built, one-time need, it worked great. By the way, I have one of the original Morris Coil Winders. I thought about using that thing - a "professional" machine - and quickly gave up on it. Bill Article: 339829 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: John Bachman Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:35:22 -0400 Message-ID: References: <6323-44E3202E-4@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net> On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:39:58 -0600, goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) wrote: >Actually i go without till i have to have one then i make it . Cutting >out the wood and getting it perfect is the hardest or longest part . I >do not use the oven . It causes bubbles in the plastic . I have had the same experience, especially with thicker plastic. Some original dial covers are 0.100 glass so I try to match the thickness for the most faithful reproduction. However, I find that plastic greater than 0.060 thickness bubbles easily. I think that it is due to impurities in the plastic, maybe moisture that vaporizes. I do not use wood for molds, I use resin. It is a bit trickier to work with and more costly but when finished with 2000 grit it is glassy smooth. If you do not use an oven, how do you heat the plastic? John reproduction dialcovers at www.anatekcorp.com/dialcovers/dialcovers.htm Article: 339830 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "m82a1pa" Subject: Re: WTB: Philco Bakelite Cap Block Date: 16 Aug 2006 10:58:39 -0700 Message-ID: <1155751118.964275.240040@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155735532.576360.280300@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Appreciate it, Ken. I've located a 3615-X which is the 7 lugger - needed a few more lugs on it. Article: 339831 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner) Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 12:57:30 -0500 Message-ID: <28421-44E35C8A-9@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net> References: <6323-44E3202E-4@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net> NOT IF YOU ARE USING PLASTIC MAKE FOR MOLDING. CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com Bill Turner, excuse caps, short answers, stroke. Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide. Article: 339832 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lee Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:11:43 -0400 Message-ID: References: <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga> Syl wrote: > "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message > news:g_GEg.677$S_5.41@tornado.socal.rr.com... >> >> Syl wrote: >>> Those radio aren't too plentiful...Maybe once restored it'll be >>> slightly more "attractive"... >> Like putting a pretty bag over her head. >> >> Jeff > > > ...or take off my glasses... > > Syl > > You don't have a 'clapper' on the light? Regards Lee Article: 339833 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "AuroraOldRadios" Subject: Re: Pictures of the project SC-145P skyscraper Date: 16 Aug 2006 11:23:35 -0700 Message-ID: <1155752615.478755.35490@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1155243489.997084.71520@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> AuroraOldRadios wrote: > I got it home safely today. There's a lot of veneer work. I didn't > realize the cabinet was so big. Appears to be missing the cover for the > labyrinth. The big piece of curled veneer is from the phono compartment > lid. Also missing the handle for the record storage door. > Here's some pictures. > http://groups.msn.com/AuroraOldRadios/shoebox.msnw?Page=1 Pictures of the turntable and cartridge have been added. I'm sure it's not original. Article: 339834 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "RG" References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155702227.395409.313150@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <7xxEg.495$sM1.323@read1.cgocable.net> Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:25:56 -0400 you talking to me .... if so please explain. - RG "DeserTBoB" wrote in message news:dnb6e2538e01ckv4fskpgro7sjvkojsn9i@4ax.com... > On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 00:53:20 -0400, "RG" wrote: > >>Speaking of Delcos, I remember the Delcos and such from the '60's. Those >>things were huge. Automotive art, some of them. Some of the early '60's >>ones >>still had tubes in them if I remember correctly. My dad's '67 Ford Galaxy >>had something similar to the Delcos. It even had an aftermarket 8 track >>bolted under the dash. State of the art back in the day .... > > This guy obviously doesn't know his ass from a water balloon. Article: 339835 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "RG" References: <8UEEg.15351$0k4.9591@bignews1.bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:30:57 -0400 This kind of begs the question ... so what are you doing here, LOL. - RG >I don't do aftermarket car audio. IF it's too loud to hear the engine > running it doesn't play in any vehicle I own as listening to > the engine gives me first hints of real trouble down the > road. Article: 339836 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: John Bachman Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:51:35 -0400 Message-ID: References: <6323-44E3202E-4@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net> <28421-44E35C8A-9@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net> I am using PETG in thicknesses of 0.020 through 0.060 depending on the need. It is only in the thicker plastic that I notice some bubbling although I have been able to overcome it up to 0.060. No luck with thicknesses greater than that yet. If it is impurities as I suspect then that will vary from lot to lot. I buy 4' X 8' sheets from a nearby plastic supply house and cut them down to 12" X 12" for most covers or 16" X 16" for larger ones. John reproduction dial covers at www.anatekcorp.com/dialcovers/dialcovers.htm On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 12:57:30 -0500, dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner) wrote: >NOT IF YOU ARE USING PLASTIC MAKE FOR MOLDING. > > >CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com >Bill Turner, excuse caps, short answers, stroke. >Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide. > > > Article: 339837 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: kludge@panix.com (Scott Dorsey) Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 14:45:04 -0400 Message-ID: References: <8UEEg.15351$0k4.9591@bignews1.bellsouth.net> RG wrote: >This kind of begs the question ... so what are you doing here, LOL. This message has been crossposted to rec.audio.tech,rec.audio.pro, rec.audio.car,rec.antiques.radio+phono, and de.rec.musik.hifi. A totally inappropriate list of groups if I ever I have seen one, given that the junk speakers referred to are not professional, not for car use, not antique, and not sold in Germany. Please check the followups: whenever you reply. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." Article: 339838 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Peter Wieck" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 11:55:07 -0700 Message-ID: <1155754507.414623.244460@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Steven wrote: > Weren't you on junk in the sixties? I was being breast-fed for some of > it. Actually, in the 60s, my electronics were Scott, speakers were AR and the TT was a Dual, the cartridge was a Shure, tuner was a Dynaco. Mind, I was 17 in 1969, missed Woodstock due to distance (long hitch from Texas) and had no use (then or now) for recreational pharmaceuticals. That system stayed with the family. My "first" system (in 1974) gleaned all on my own had AR4x speakers, an AR receiver, Thorens TT w/Rabco SL-8E arm, Shure cartridge, HK-2000 cassette deck, and a Revox A77 tape deck. Of that group, I have retained the speakers. The rest was stolen in 1978. There have been multiple iterations since. Present front-line SS System consists of: AR3a speakers, Citation 16 power-amp, Revox A720 tuner/pre-amp, Revox B225 CD player, Revox A77 tape-deck, Revox B795 TT w/Ortophon cartrige. Koss Electrostatic headphones Back-line: Also AR3a speakers, Scott LK-150 power-amp, Dynaco PAS3 & FM3 pre-amp & tuner, Revox B790/Shure TT/Cartridge, Yamaha CD changer. No tape. Koss Pro4aaTi headphones. There are four other complete systems tube and SS, but they come and go at whim. The Yamaha represents my only piece of Pacific Rim equipment. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Article: 339839 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Peter Wieck" Subject: Re: What Are You Bringing to Kutztown 9/22-23/06 ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 12:57:09 -0700 Message-ID: <1155758229.674706.275560@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <12e6166e11m2v7e@corp.supernews.com> I will be bringing various bits of Radio and Audio. Audio will include at least one Dynaco SCA-80Q ($80), PAS-3 ($150), FM-3 ($90) and SCA-35 ($250), all working 100% and in clean condition. One AR (US) integrated amp will also be included ($250). Speakers will include (ONLY on request, or I will not transport them) a pair of AR4x ($100), AR3a ($275), AR8 ($50) and a pair of small ADS (4.5" woofer/dome tweeter) ($50), also all good. Radios to be posted closer to the date depending on what comes off the bench. Let me know on the audio stuff, my hope would be to settle a price (or trade) in advance... I will bring it with your name on it. I put prices here on general principle, but they are all negotiable and open to offers and trades. My _actual_ preference is to trade a small amount of cash and a similar not-working-but-restorable item rather than a larger amount of cash. Aladdin's Nemesis' "New Lamps for Old" but with some payment required. I will not be renting a table, I will be helping out the club and hopefully doing a clinic. Hence the wish to have all this settled ahead. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Article: 339840 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:11:37 -0400 Message-ID: <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> "jakdedert" wrote in message news:OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net... > Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be > mandatory. Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken off > the spool. That would eventually make an enormous mess. Then how could I have made my statement about it working perfectly, as well as others? Do other people here make bold statements like "it works perfectly" without ever trying something once? I'm not sure if my post never appeared, or exactly what happened. Alan Douglas posted here several years ago about helping me rewind a field coil on a little tombstone I got from his barn. He mentioned I should just let it fly off the end in a bucket instead of using a rotating feed like I had been using. As I posted then and in response to this Majestic, I tried the rotating feed and the wire broke constantly. Alan's method was the ONLY way that worked. IIRC jak even participated in the discussion. I'm realizing as I write jak assumed I was just talking on the on the basis of pure theory. That's a truly scary idea. Let me add an addendum then to the last 12,000 posts I've made- if I'm saying something entirely without qualification I've not only tried it bit tried it repeatedly. I take it as a given armchair engineers' advice is to be taken with a grain of salt and should be labeled clearly as entirely theory based. Theory is fine for electronics but not the nitty gritty world of getting it done. John H. Article: 339841 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" Subject: Interesting distortion Message-ID: <9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 20:49:09 GMT I wonder if anyone else has experienced this . . . My Atwater Kent 60 sits in my shop, and I frequently listen to it. Sometimes I'll have it on talk radio, sometimes I'll fire up the AMT-3000 transmitter and play some OTR through it. Either one sounds fine. However if I connect an AM/FM tuner to the AMT-3000, it's very distorted through the AK. I mean VERY distorted -- to the point where I thought the tuner was bad. But I tried a second tuner and it does the same thing. The gain, modulation, and compression controls do very little for the distortion. AM is okay, but FM is terribly distorted. I brought my Zenith H-500 TO into the room, turned it on and the FM radio sounds crystal clear through it. So the problem has to be in the AK, right? Now -- these radios are known for adding a little bit of distortion, but this is quite a bit -- and only when I play the FM tuner through it. Could there be some sort of RF image interference? I doubt it, as this is a TRF radio. Could it have something to do with the increased fidelity of the FM signal? The AMT-3000 is wide open, and maybe the highs are creating a problem. But -- I reconnected the CD player, and as I type this I'm listening to an Ace Of Base CD -- rather interesting music to come from a 1929 radio, but I don't have the distortion problem. Swapping the CD player with the tuner, I notice the tuner signal is stronger -- but I'm not overmodulating, as again -- it's clear through another radio. Could it be that the modulation is below 100%, but higher than what the AK can handle? No, because every AM broadcast station uses near-100% mod, and they sound fine on this radio. (By fine I don't mean perfect by audiophile standards, but certainly listenable.) I'm really getting intrigued by this. I think it may be time to pull out the scope and have a look at the RF signal, modulation levels, etc. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 339842 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jimfberg@webtv.net (Jim Berg) Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:49:35 -0700 Message-ID: <14718-44E384DF-29@storefull-3111.bay.webtv.net> References: Scott: Some of those Zenith exports are listed in Rider under chassis number. Article: 339843 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Interesting distortion References: <9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:31:15 -0400 Try decreasind the antenna on the AK, or put it further away from the AMT. I've had trouble sort of like that with my AMT and others. Ken Gary Tayman wrote: > I wonder if anyone else has experienced this . . . > > My Atwater Kent 60 sits in my shop, and I frequently listen to it. > Sometimes I'll have it on talk radio, sometimes I'll fire up the AMT-3000 > transmitter and play some OTR through it. Either one sounds fine. > > However if I connect an AM/FM tuner to the AMT-3000, it's very distorted > through the AK. I mean VERY distorted -- to the point where I thought the > tuner was bad. But I tried a second tuner and it does the same thing. The > gain, modulation, and compression controls do very little for the > distortion. AM is okay, but FM is terribly distorted. > > I brought my Zenith H-500 TO into the room, turned it on and the FM radio > sounds crystal clear through it. So the problem has to be in the AK, right? > > Now -- these radios are known for adding a little bit of distortion, but > this is quite a bit -- and only when I play the FM tuner through it. > > Could there be some sort of RF image interference? I doubt it, as this is a > TRF radio. Could it have something to do with the increased fidelity of the > FM signal? The AMT-3000 is wide open, and maybe the highs are creating a > problem. But -- I reconnected the CD player, and as I type this I'm > listening to an Ace Of Base CD -- rather interesting music to come from a > 1929 radio, but I don't have the distortion problem. > > Swapping the CD player with the tuner, I notice the tuner signal is > stronger -- but I'm not overmodulating, as again -- it's clear through > another radio. Could it be that the modulation is below 100%, but higher > than what the AK can handle? No, because every AM broadcast station uses > near-100% mod, and they sound fine on this radio. (By fine I don't mean > perfect by audiophile standards, but certainly listenable.) > > I'm really getting intrigued by this. I think it may be time to pull out > the scope and have a look at the RF signal, modulation levels, etc. > > Article: 339844 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: 16 Aug 2006 15:02:13 -0700 Message-ID: <1155765733.908082.257310@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Thanks for all the photography suggestions, I appreciate it. Will give it a try again when I get back to working on the set. Maybe I can get by without it anyway, it's pretty simple and mostly untouched underchassis, the part labels are legible and it plays weakly with new filter caps. I'm thinking after all the usual work is done it may just work without my using a ske. -p. Article: 339845 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner) Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:00:06 -0500 Message-ID: <18592-44E39566-60@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> References: THE WRONG PLASTIC, AND THE WRONG THICKNESS. CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com Bill Turner, excuse caps, short answers, stroke. Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide. Article: 339846 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark S" References: <1155702101.066535.303580@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155736776.102507.84460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Silvertone knobs needed & a tip? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:27:28 GMT I'll put the ones I have in my pocket and see you there! (Yikes, May doesn't seem that long ago!) Hmmm...what to do from September to May? Lionel trains of course! "The difference between men and boyz is the size and cost of their toyz!" Thanks, Mark "Mike Koste" wrote in message news:1155736776.102507.84460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > Mark: Come see me at Kutztown. I probably have the knobs you need. > > Mike Koste > Gobs of Knobs > Ambler, PA > Article: 339847 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "the MAGNATE" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 15:28:19 -0700 Message-ID: <1155767299.218479.16180@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> John Stone wrote: > On 8/15/06 9:02 PM, in article h1vEg.484$sM1.127@read1.cgocable.net, "RG" > wrote: > > > That may true to a certain extent, but not in the all encompassing sense > > that you stated. I can think of more than a "few" made in Japan speakers > > from that era that are highly sought after, and for good reason. In fact, I > > have a pair of mint Yamaha NS-690II's that are completely at odds with your > > statement. > Well, I'd like to know what they are, other than a few Yamahas like the > NS1000 that stood out at the time. BTW, a number of well reviewed Yamaha > speakers weren't designed or built in Japan. They used European drivers and > were built in the USA. > > > >Newer is NOT always better. > In fact, where loudspeakers are concerned-at least reputable ones-newer IS > nearly always better. Newer may not always be sonically preferred, but that > is another issue. The fact is that loudspeaker design has advanced > dramatically in the past 15-20 years. Part of this is due to advancement in > materials, but the big change is in the ability to use CAD and FEA programs > for simulation of cones, motor structures, cabinet design, and crossover > topology. Prior to this, all of these areas came down to "cut and try". It > was hard enough back then to just get reasonable frequency response, much > less low distortion or good dispersion. Just run a frequency response sweep > between a 1970's design and a good modern speaker. You'll see a big > difference. > > > > > The JVC's I do not know about. I have > > never listened to them. > > I have. They're awful. Just look at the configuration of the drivers. > There's no acoustical design expertise at all to these. the cabinets are made better than the average speaker of today- I mean what is consumer grade today ?? tiny surround sound POS speakers Article: 339848 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Chris F." Subject: Telefunken Schematic Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:52:40 GMT Does anyone have, or know where I can find, a schematic for a Telefunken 5183wk console? Thanks. -- To reply via Email, remove NOSPAM from the address Article: 339849 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" Subject: Coilwinder Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:54:29 GMT Another item arrived from the same basement where the wire spools have been found. This was used in a small radio lab that used to build up radios using Geloso parts, extimated no more than 500 pcs x year. Needs a bit of cleaning... I've uploaded large images (but small file size): http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg Article: 339850 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" References: Subject: Re: Coilwinder Message-ID: <9pNEg.73094$zy5.1335669@twister1.libero.it> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:57:09 GMT Damned Outlook express... http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/2.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/3.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/4.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/5.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/6.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/7.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/8.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/9.jpg Article: 339851 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" References: Subject: Re: Telefunken Schematic Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:02:44 GMT "Chris F." > Does anyone have, or know where I can find, a schematic for a Telefunken > 5183wk console? > Thanks. Is this the Allegro Stereo HiFi 5183W? Tubeline ECC85 ECH81 EBF89 EBC91 EM84 ECC83 EL84 ? -- Daniele ^___^ http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339852 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: 16 Aug 2006 16:30:54 -0700 Message-ID: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> jim menning wrote: > "Lyndell Scott" wrote in message > news:FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com... > > BILL, > > IF YOU INTERPRETED MY COMMENTS AS A COMPLAINT, THEN I APPOLOGIZE. I DID NOT MEAN IT > > THAT WAY AT ALL AND WILL FOLLOW YOUR INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY THE NEXT TIME I MAKE A > > DIAL COVER. I MUCH APPRECIATE YOUR WILLINGNESS TO SHARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH OTHERS. > > > > I don't think Bill was responding to you Lyndell. > > If you look at the posting tree, you'll see that Bill was responding to "JOHN D" who > reported that he was having trouble accessing Bill's website. Apparently JOHN D is > the first to report any problem opening the site to Bill. FWIW, the site opens fine > for me. > > jim menning I'm getting a headache now. Article: 339853 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 16 Aug 2006 16:39:11 -0700 Message-ID: <1155771551.744653.54240@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> duty-honor-country wrote: > RG wrote: > > Why is that ? > > > > I have a JVC KD-SH9750 HU in my GTI that I would not dream of replacing. It > > is by far the best sounding HU I have ever had ... and I have had most of > > the top of the line HU's at one time or another. In fact, I have top of the > > line Alpines sitting on the shelf right now because they just can't touch > > this JVC in SQ (and I have tried them). So is your statement general in > > nature or aimed at specific offerings from JVC ? > > > > - RG > > > good post- I rest my case- these guys knock stuff they never heard > before- signs of a small mind I know all about yer car stereo:shit: ese, I'm 40 and grew up in the 1980s, but I am into AM SQ, therefore I stuck with the holy grail of Delco, UX1/Symphony Sound. Mopar is excellent to if you want to keep OEM brand stuff in your car. PS I couldn't afford JVC and Alpine, so I fixed junkyard radios. I'm happy with them. My boss used to install Memphis Audio and car stereo too. I get some of the leftovers, and I'm saving them for the day I can afford to drive again. Article: 339854 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark S" References: Subject: Re: Silvertone knobs needed & a tip? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:02:42 GMT "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:V6ydnd1HHI-RpH7ZnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@comcast.com... > Mark, > GREAT find! I'm a Silvertone fan. > > there are MANY knobs for Silvertone in 1937. Depending on the set, any > knob > can come in either the larger diameter or the smaller, and the functions > called out can vary a lot. > > I think on your set the volume is also the on/off switch and is a small > knob? Is the tone a larger knob? > > these are all dark brown plastic, too. > > Mark Hi Mark, The knobs are all the same size about 1" in dia. They have two lugs @180 deg. apart projecting. My first real "collector" radio was a 6346 Silvertone. I pulled it out of a used furniture barn around August '76; just prior to my freshman year in college. My buddies weren't quite sure what to make of it; ..."but,...wouldn't you rather drink beer?" ...yeah..so? That radio taught me alot. The chassis was mounted vertically in the cabinet so the wet electrolytics were inside the chassis mounted to a bracket. This way the electrolytics would be vertical when the chassis was in place. Of course, me, I knew nothing about wet electrolytics. I pulled the chassis and set it flat (wet electros horizontal!), plugged it in and turned it on to see how the old gal worked. Well, after about 30 sec. the electrolytics started to boil and spew their liquid everywhere. The rectifier lit up like a Christmas tree. Lesson learned. It still stands duty, in the upstairs hall foyer, fully functional; beautiful as ever. The woods and veneer are amazing. I'm really excited about this new one though. Its condition is unbelievable. Could turn out to have problems but I've yet to find any. Thanks, Mark S > > > "MarkS" wrote in message > news:COvEg.8425$xp2.1393@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> Hi All, >> I'm trying to find two knobs for my latest find, a gold round dial 4585 >> Silvertone floor radio. These knobs actually have their functions written > on >> them. I am missing the volume & tone knobs, I have the band, tuning and >> selectivity (cool feature). I got this radio for a reasonable price on >> ebay...it wasn't in the collectible or consumer electronics sections, it > was >> in the antique section; my wife found it! Might want to look there once >> in >> awhile. Considering what these Silvertone round dial radios go for these >> days, I think I did pretty well. The vendor even delivered it to me > blanket >> wrapped for $50 from Maine, I live in NJ. The radio is in excellent >> condition. All original tubes with their Silvertone labels except the >> 5Y3. >> The original 6G5 even lights up bright. Knowing my luck, the radio is > cheap >> but the knobs are priceless!! Anyone know of a source for the flanged > rubber >> gromments used to isolate the chassis from the cabinet? >> Thanks, >> MarkS >> >> >> > > > Article: 339855 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: Coilwinder Date: 16 Aug 2006 16:49:38 -0700 Message-ID: <1155772178.209057.142920@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: Ouch, Daniele, that looks in pretty rough shape!! Mine was about 1/10 as bad as that and I had to strip it down part by part and polish the steel 'bright parts' so it would all work smoothly again. What brand of winder is that? It look somewhat familiar. That is an interesting wire handler that pulls and also will rock to allow for winding on square forms. Can you please post a couple of close up photos of the wire laying mechanism on the back of the winder? I am wondering if it is fast enough to do 'Pi' winding or will just do layer winding like my AVO. Once you get it polished up, it looks to be an excellent winding machine, and the motor is certainly much more powerful than the sewing machine one on my machine, so it has the potential to wind pretty big coils/transformers! Neil S. Daniele wrote: > Damned Outlook express... > > http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/2.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/3.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/4.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/5.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/6.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/7.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/8.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/9.jpg Article: 339856 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:51:28 -0600 Message-ID: <5988-44E3AF80-195@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> I`m getting a headache now. Now you know how everyone else on planet earth feels having to see your 50 posts every hour . Article: 339857 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: John Bachman Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 20:11:15 -0400 Message-ID: References: <18592-44E39566-60@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:00:06 -0500, dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner) wrote: >THE WRONG PLASTIC, AND THE WRONG THICKNESS. > No, I do not think so. Results are great. It is entirely possible for different people to use different methods, materials and procedures and achieve good results. John Article: 339858 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Georg Richter" <520066970381-0001@T-Online.de> Subject: Re: Grundig Majestic 2068 question Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 02:01:55 +0200 Message-ID: References: <1155666638.672365.90770@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> gil wrote: > I have one of these beauties in very nice shape that I pull out of the > closet once in a while to play with and to this day it still amazes me > how well it works, sensitive and selective as well not to mention great > audio. > > My question is...is there a manual I can download somewhere for this > radio? > > And any info like year made, price, anything would be appreciated since > I cant seem to find anything on it on the web. Informations about the original version of Grundig 2068 are here http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/grundig_musikgeraet_2068.html Do you really need an instruction manual for operating the set? Kind Regards Georg Article: 339859 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:57:35 -0600 Message-ID: <5988-44E3B0EF-196@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> John i use a heat gun . Put the wood plug on the bench or floor , plastic on top of it then the wood frame on top of that heat the plastic while pushing down on the wood frame both sides with long sticks to keep your hands out of the heat . I prefer thicker plastic , it comes out nicer and flaw free . If you overheat it will bubble . Takes a half hour to make the wood parts so they are nice ( not some quick 2 year olds school project ) Takes a couple minutes to make the cover . I only do this 3 to 4 times a year . Article: 339860 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Georg Richter" <520066970381-0001@T-Online.de> Subject: Re: Grundig 4035 scematics Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 02:04:19 +0200 Message-ID: References: deadeye wrote: > I recently purchased a non-working Grundig model 4035 and am looking for > schematics for it. Does anyone have a source? > Thanks There are at least three versions of 4035 existing. Start here: http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/grundig_4035w.html and check which model you own. Kind Regards Georg Article: 339861 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 00:12:43 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> In <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> "HobbyBox" writes: >Just out of curiosity, why is it better for the supply spool to be on >end and stationary. I would have thought you would want it to be >rotating, as well... I've always wondered that, too. If you leave the supply spool stationary you're adding a twist to the wire. Or, rather, you're _not_undoing_ the twist inherent in a coil. I trust you guys with the experience implicitly, so it simply must not matter for small diameter single-strands. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339862 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 00:18:26 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155743174.997400.155640@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> In <1155743174.997400.155640@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> "nesesu" writes: >The change from >end feed to despooling was around #20-24 ga depending on the machine >and the coil being wound. The one turn per spool 'revolution' 'twist' >on the small gauge wire has no effect whatever in handling, provided >the light tension is not lost through the guides. Shoulda read before posting. Thanks! -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339863 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Georg Richter" <520066970381-0001@T-Online.de> Subject: Sonora radio (picture from "Spokesman" was on a.b.p.r) Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 02:20:26 +0200 Message-ID: Hello, the picture on a.b.p.r disappeared, "Spokesman" was asking about an unknown Sonora set. Here is a comment from a good colleague: "My best educated guess, first approach: - either one of the so called "Radio Tuner"s which Sonora combined with an Audio Amp, an AC Power Supply (25 or 60 cycles), and often a phonograph (which was a focal point for Sonora) , late 1920's - or probably the "D 800", TRF, 1926 , battery It anyway is apparently a TRF, provided there are not coils hidden underneath. Then it might be reconsidered as a Superhet, where the oscillator is tuned by the single var.cap and RF by the dual one. If I had a look underneath one could say more about the circuitry. Question: is there a 6th tube? ore are only 5 tubes (sockets) there? Is that a terminal board or a kind of receptacle at the rear (for battery or P/S and Audio Amp hookup)?" Spokeman, feel free to send a picture from underneath to georg at n78 dot de, I will forward it to the colleague. Kind Regards Georg Article: 339864 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Phil Nelson" References: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155739202.552432.236390@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Russian/Eastern European wire radios Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:24:29 -0700 Message-ID: > Actual nixie tubes? Yah, I could dig seeing photos of any radio with any sort of Nixie display. Phil "never seen one before" Nelson Article: 339865 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 00:31:32 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> In <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> "Hagstar" writes: >"jakdedert" wrote in message >news:OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net... >> Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be >> mandatory. Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken off >> the spool. That would eventually make an enormous mess. >Then how could I have made my statement about it working perfectly, as well >as others? Do other people here make bold statements like "it works >perfectly" without ever trying something once? I'm not sure if my post never >appeared, or exactly what happened. >I'm realizing as I write jak assumed I was just talking on the on the basis >of pure theory. That's a truly scary idea. Let me add an addendum then to >the last 12,000 posts I've made- if I'm saying something entirely without >qualification I've not only tried it bit tried it repeatedly. I'm not jak, but I posted more-or-less the same question not because I don't believe you, but because I'd like to know WHY it works. Nothing wrong with that. Certainly stationary unspooling of large cables causes a problem. So why does it work for one case and not for another? I started to doubt my instinct and had to think a moment to be sure I was right that a twist was being added. Reading further explained that the twist simply doesn't matter below a certain diameter, I'd guess because of the low torsional force versus applied tension. When someone asks questions about your methods, you don't always have to respond with "WHAT?!! Do you think I'm LYING?" Sometimes a simple shrug and a "Don't know why it works, but it does" will suffice. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339866 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: 16 Aug 2006 17:43:13 -0700 Message-ID: <1155775393.656553.243120@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Ken G. wrote: > I`m getting a headache now. > > Now you know how everyone else on planet earth feels having to see your > 50 posts every hour . You're a boy scout. Save it for fixing things. Can't post 50 times an hour anyway. Fingers and Google won't let you. Article: 339867 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Black and White Radio for Ken G. In Idaho Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:07:10 -0400 Message-ID: <12e7ga796tu3sf8@corp.supernews.com> What relationship does the catalog pic have to the radio though? http://cgi.ebay.com/Stromberg-Carlson-1235-console-radio-phono-16-tubes_W0QQitemZ200017267519 John H. Article: 339868 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" References: <9pNEg.73094$zy5.1335669@twister1.libero.it> <1155772178.209057.142920@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Coilwinder Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 01:24:22 GMT "nesesu" ... > Ouch, Daniele, that looks in pretty rough shape!! Mine was about 1/10 > as bad as that and I had to strip it down part by part and polish the > steel 'bright parts' so it would all work smoothly again. What brand > of winder is that? It look somewhat familiar. The counter has 'Victor' engraved on it, but actually i can't say for sure that's the brand of the winder or about the counter only.. A small label on top says 'Apparecchiature Radioelettriche Marcucci Milano' Marcucci was a top seller for radiotechnician equipments in the '40 and '50.. now it's only a big seller of expensive ham transceivers and other 'madeinjap' electronics. > That is an interesting wire handler that pulls and also will rock to > allow for winding on square forms. I agree, that's pretty unusual, i've always seen systems supported by springs only, this is the first one i see in this way. > Can you please post a couple of close up photos of the wire laying > mechanism on the back of the winder? I am wondering if it is fast > enough to do 'Pi' winding or will just do layer winding like my AVO. Pictures uploaded. About PI winding, i guess no, for 10 turns it moves: Low: 1.5mm Fast: 10mm which results in 1 round per millimeter in fast mode (18AWG close wound). OTOH, slow mode shows it can wind 0.15mm wires (between 34 and 35 AWG) close wound. > Once you get it polished up, it looks to be an excellent winding > machine, and the motor is certainly much more powerful than the sewing > machine one on my machine, so it has the potential to wind pretty big > coils/transformers! The motor is rated 125W at 4000 RPM, i will look for a variable speed control, i hope those ones for sewing machines will do the work, having a foot controller is very practice. Pictures added: http://www.junkradios.com/public/10.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/11.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/12.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/13.jpg old pictures resuming: http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/2.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/3.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/4.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/5.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/6.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/7.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/8.jpg http://www.junkradios.com/public/9.jpg -- Daniele http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339869 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: 1932 RCA Radiotron Pocket Reference Book From: Larry Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:36:32 -0400 Over on alt.binaries.e-book.technical, in addition to hundreds of great old radio manuals, even the Beckmans, some one has posted: 1932 RCA Radiotron Pocket Reference Book in PDF format for your reading and referencing pleasure. Just thought you boys would like to know.... 73 DE W4CSC -- There's amazing intelligence in the Universe. You can tell because none of them ever called Earth. Article: 339870 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:38:21 -0400 Message-ID: <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> "Tim Mullen" wrote in message news:ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com... > When someone asks questions about your methods, you don't always have > to respond with "WHAT?!! Do you think I'm LYING?" " That would eventually make an enormous mess." This is not a question it is a clear, simple declarative sentence. Wouldn't that make an enormous mess? Now THAT'S a question. You find it odd that I am uncomfortable with someone making a clear statement- oh, you must be mistaken, that can't work- about something I do all the time? John H. From adouglasatgis.net Thu Aug 17 01:53:02 EDT 2006 Article: 339871 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:28:11 -0400 Organization: NewsGuy - Unlimited Usenet $19.95 Lines: 17 Message-ID: <7rg7e2t48n4mkf6rueusi4vb7k4fsd5qp8@4ax.com> References: <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p-224.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news.unc.edu!elk.ncren.net!newshub.sdsu.edu!pln-e!spln!rex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news3 Xref: news0.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:339871 Hi, I learned about the stationary supply spool when I worked three summers in a motor repair shop during my college years. Most of our wire came in pails, not on spools, but the principle is the same. The wire was fed from the center of the coil. Yes it adds a twist for every turn, but trust me, it doesn't matter, on anything up to 14 gauge. I don't think we stocked anything larger than that. #18 or thereabouts was most commonly used, and we had some half sizes too. I do the transformer winding where I work now. All of our wire is on 10 lb spools. For the #14 I do unspool the lengths I need (there is one transformer that takes two #14 bifilar for the primaries, 21 feet of it). For #16 or smaller, I just take it right off the stationary spool. And incidentally, though our winder does have that plastic cone, I've never had occasion to need it. Alan Article: 339872 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "AuroraOldRadios" Subject: Re: Black and White Radio for Ken G. In Idaho Date: 16 Aug 2006 18:54:46 -0700 Message-ID: <1155779686.466310.164750@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <12e7ga796tu3sf8@corp.supernews.com> Hagstar wrote: > What relationship does the catalog pic have to the radio though? > > http://cgi.ebay.com/Stromberg-Carlson-1235-console-radio-phono-16-tubes_W0QQitemZ200017267519 > > John H. That's a SAMS copy. Perhaps he has no digital camera, just a scanner. Or maybe it's a very expensive copy of a SAMS. Article: 339873 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: Coilwinder Date: 16 Aug 2006 19:00:28 -0700 Message-ID: <1155780028.112191.62240@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: Daniele, I would have to agree that the laying mechanism, while variable for wire size, does not have the range to do 'Pi' winding. It is interesting that the variable ratio drive system is much like the AVO, but the reversing bevel gear system is quite different. Are those gears very worn like they look, or is it just the silver grease in them that makes them look worn? IIRC, Victor made that sort of counter as did Veeder-Root. The one on my AVO is marked AVO, but I think it is also a Victor. I had to disassemble it to replace a broken return spring in it so I could reset the counter properly. I just had a look at the foot control for my wifes Bernina, and it is rated at 1A 115-125V which is about the 125W of your motor. The little contoller on my winder is much smaller and I would not expect it to handle much over a 60W motor, so there are big differences in the power ratings of sewing machine foot contols. I realize that you have 240V supply, but the wattage ratings will still apply. Neil S. Daniele wrote: > "nesesu" ... > > Ouch, Daniele, that looks in pretty rough shape!! Mine was about 1/10 > > as bad as that and I had to strip it down part by part and polish the > > steel 'bright parts' so it would all work smoothly again. What brand > > of winder is that? It look somewhat familiar. > > The counter has 'Victor' engraved on it, but actually i can't say for sure > that's the brand of the winder or about the counter only.. > A small label on top says 'Apparecchiature Radioelettriche Marcucci Milano' > Marcucci was a top seller for radiotechnician equipments in the '40 and > '50.. > now it's only a big seller of expensive ham transceivers and other > 'madeinjap' > electronics. > > > That is an interesting wire handler that pulls and also will rock to > > allow for winding on square forms. > > I agree, that's pretty unusual, i've always seen systems supported > by springs only, this is the first one i see in this way. > > > Can you please post a couple of close up photos of the wire laying > > mechanism on the back of the winder? I am wondering if it is fast > > enough to do 'Pi' winding or will just do layer winding like my AVO. > > Pictures uploaded. About PI winding, i guess no, for 10 turns it moves: > Low: 1.5mm > Fast: 10mm > which results in 1 round per millimeter in fast mode (18AWG close wound). > OTOH, slow mode shows it can wind 0.15mm wires (between 34 and 35 AWG) > close wound. > > > Once you get it polished up, it looks to be an excellent winding > > machine, and the motor is certainly much more powerful than the sewing > > machine one on my machine, so it has the potential to wind pretty big > > coils/transformers! > > The motor is rated 125W at 4000 RPM, i will look for a variable speed > control, > i hope those ones for sewing machines will do the work, having a foot > controller > is very practice. > > Pictures added: > > http://www.junkradios.com/public/10.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/11.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/12.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/13.jpg > > old pictures resuming: > > http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/2.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/3.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/4.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/5.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/6.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/7.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/8.jpg > http://www.junkradios.com/public/9.jpg > > > -- > Daniele > http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339874 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jim rozen Subject: Re: Atwater Kent red paint- where to get Date: 16 Aug 2006 18:52:12 -0700 Message-ID: References: <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> In article <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com>, Pete_O says... > >Does anyone know where I can get red paint that matches that used on the >metal cased AK's? Someone mentioned it a long time ago but I didn't need >it then. Spray can or regular- it doesn't matter. -Pete Kennedy (the toolbox guys, not the radio guys...) sells it, as a touch up paint for their red wrinkle toolboxes. Jim -- ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== Article: 339875 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 02:19:29 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> In <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> "Hagstar" writes: >"Tim Mullen" wrote in message >news:ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com... > > When someone asks questions about your methods, you don't always have >> to respond with "WHAT?!! Do you think I'm LYING?" >" That would eventually make an enormous mess." >This is not a question it is a clear, simple declarative sentence. Wouldn't >that make an enormous mess? Now THAT'S a question. >You find it odd that I am uncomfortable with someone making a clear >statement- oh, you must be mistaken, that can't work- about something I do >all the time? Sigh. The original statement by jak, in context in its entirety, was: "Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be mandatory. Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken off the spool. That would eventually make an enormous mess." Where you focused on the declarative "would", I saw the uncertain "think". Certainly you're within your rights to view that as a hostile throw-down-the-gauntlet affront to your integrity. I read it more as somebody wondering aloud "How can this be?" Again, I'm not jak and don't mean to sound like I'm speaking for him (just in case there's any more misunderstanding). This ain't my dog, and the only reason I piped in is I know I could at some point, and no doubt have in the past, wondered aloud without choosing my words with utmost care. I'll bow out now and make sure if I ever *do* question anything I phrase it very, very carefully... -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339876 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Black and White Radio for Ken G. In Idaho References: <12e7ga796tu3sf8@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 02:29:44 GMT Hagstar wrote: > What relationship does the catalog pic have to the radio though? It's probably worth more. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 339877 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Eddie Brimer" Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: 16 Aug 2006 19:32:56 -0700 Message-ID: <1155781976.633983.16450@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Ken G. wrote: > John i use a heat gun . Put the wood plug on the bench or floor , > plastic on top of it then the wood frame on top of that heat the plastic > while pushing down on the wood frame both sides with long sticks to keep > your hands out of the heat . > I prefer thicker plastic , it comes out nicer and flaw free . If you > overheat it will bubble . > Takes a half hour to make the wood parts so they are nice ( not some > quick 2 year olds school project ) Takes a couple minutes to make the > cover . > > I only do this 3 to 4 times a year . nope... it's rocket science. got to have a special plastic, special oven and a vacuum chamber. only optically perfect dialcovers are acceptable. i beg to differ....on all counts. Article: 339878 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Interesting distortion From: Larry References: <9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:38:23 -0400 "Gary Tayman" wrote in news:9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04: > However if I connect an AM/FM tuner to the AMT-3000, it's very > distorted through the AK. I mean VERY distorted -- to the point where > I thought the tuner was bad. But I tried a second tuner and it does > the same thing. The gain, modulation, and compression controls do > very little for the distortion. AM is okay, but FM is terribly > distorted. > > I brought my Zenith H-500 TO into the room, turned it on and the FM > radio sounds crystal clear through it. So the problem has to be in > the AK, right? > > FM bandwidth and modulation index is proportional to audio drive. Turn down the audio drive and the overmodulation, way outside even the cheapest FM IF strip's bandwidth, will decrease. The trick on FM is to set the receiver to an FM broadcaster and adjust the audio level of your receiver to the level you like to hear. Then, tune the FM receiver to your AMT-3000 and adjust the audio drive to the transmitter so it matches the audio level of the broadcast FM station WITHOUT CHANGING THE RECEIVER VOLUME CONTROL. Your AMT-3000 is fairly close to broadcast station FM deviation.....close enough for government work....(c; Your neighbors in range will appreciate it....(c; -- There's amazing intelligence in the Universe. You can tell because none of them ever called Earth. Article: 339879 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: RCA 1932 Radiotron Pocket Reference Book From: Larry References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:39:53 -0400 Solomon K. wrote in news:p025e2dcnmn94amqcqe41418ten107old7@4ax.com: > Posted in alt.binaries.e-book.technical if anyone is interested. > > S. > Thanks! Post 'em all!....(c; -- There's amazing intelligence in the Universe. You can tell because none of them ever called Earth. Article: 339880 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Terry S" Subject: Re: Russian/Eastern European wire radios Date: 16 Aug 2006 19:40:01 -0700 Message-ID: <1155782401.923778.40760@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Here is one, Phil.... on my site: http://members.aol.com/tschw10117/Circleofsound.htm Towards the bottom.... One of a kind. Terry. Phil Nelson wrote: > > Actual nixie tubes? > > Yah, I could dig seeing photos of any radio with any sort of Nixie display. > > Phil "never seen one before" Nelson Article: 339881 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "wagil" Subject: Moskowitz & Herbach Date: 16 Aug 2006 19:41:14 -0700 Message-ID: <1155782474.826069.62990@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Has anyone any info about the Moskowitz & Herbach kit radios built in the 1920s? any help/clus.info appreciated. Wayne g Article: 339882 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S120... From: Larry References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:52:55 -0400 Robert Sherrod wrote in news:Tb9Eg.135478$1i1.52777 @attbi_s72: > Given that this S120 will be given to the granddaughter of the > individual who is having it restored How old is this granddaughter? I'd hate to be the one to give a radio that's a potential lethal shock hazard, like the S-120, to any young girl and ultimately be responsible for her death, just for old-times-sake.... Isn't one side of the S-120's chassis hooked to the power line? I used to get mild shocks off the ground screw on mine when I was "younger"...(c; -- There's amazing intelligence in the Universe. You can tell because none of them ever called Earth. Article: 339883 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:09:29 -0400 Message-ID: <12e7nfherk5ie81@corp.supernews.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> You, Tim M., never make declarations based on nothing but speculation that I can recall. You're also right the "think" is modifying. John H. Article: 339884 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44E3DF48.70402@socal.rr.com> From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 03:15:46 GMT Tim Mullen wrote: > I trust you guys with the experience implicitly, so it simply > must not matter for small diameter single-strands. Given that a reasonable spool of magnet wire is going to be about 3" in diameter, and a field coil is about 3" in diameter, it works out to about one twist (of the wire) per revolution. That is a VERY fine wire, being given one full twist over a 9" or so length. (Note: If the wire spool is 2" in diamter, and the coil form is 3" in diamter, that adds up to about 1-1/2 twists per turn on the form. Still neglible for that small a diamter of wire.) Nesesu pointed out that the cross over between roll feed vs end feed is around 24 gauge wire. Some numbers to think about. #34 AWG is 0.0063" in diamter or 40 circular mils. #24 AWG is 0.0201" in diamter or 400 circular mils. #12 AEG is 0.0808" in diamter or 6500 circular mils. Given roughly 9" of wire to go around the coil form, the ratio of circular mils to length (for twisting) is about 4.4 for the #34 wire, about 45 for #24 wire and 725 for the #12 wire. Basic physics experiment for you to try. Take a piece of #12 AWG solid copper house wire (minus the insulation) that is 12' long. Clamp one end in the vice and the other end in a pair of vicegrips(tm). Give the free end a full turn (twist). You'll find that it take little or no effort to do this. This is based on the ratio of the cross sectional area of the different sized wire. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 339885 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 03:24:57 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <44E3DF48.70402@socal.rr.com> In <44E3DF48.70402@socal.rr.com> Jeffrey D Angus writes: >Given roughly 9" of wire to go around the coil form, the ratio >of circular mils to length (for twisting) is about 4.4 for the >#34 wire, about 45 for #24 wire and 725 for the #12 wire. Ah! This makes sense. The finer the wire the more, uh, "leisurely" it twists. O.K., you said it better. >Basic physics experiment for you to try. >Take a piece of #12 AWG solid copper house wire (minus the >insulation) that is 12' long. Clamp one end in the vice and >the other end in a pair of vicegrips(tm). Give the free end >a full turn (twist). You'll find that it take little or no >effort to do this. Twisting it, no. But it sure hurt like hell holding on to that 120VAC. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339886 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <5988-44E3B0EF-196@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> <1155781976.633983.16450@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:17:19 -0400 "Eddie Brimer" wrote in message > nope... it's rocket science. got to have a special plastic, special > oven and a vacuum chamber. only optically perfect dialcovers are > acceptable. i beg to differ....on all counts. Not everyone is satisfied with distorted dial covers. If you've never seen a vacuum formed dial cover then you don't know what you're missing. Sure anyone can sandwich a piece of transparent piece of plastic between two pieces of plywood. Been there, done that. But there is a better way. No one ever said your technique isn't acceptable, on the contrary, but like everything else in life, if you put the effort and the technique, you invariably get better results. You should know, look at the effort you invested in the mirror dial and the results you got... Syl Article: 339887 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Russian/Eastern European wire radios References: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <4UREg.723$S_5.67@tornado.socal.rr.com> Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 04:03:12 GMT Gary Tayman wrote: > I don't think the original reason for wire radios had to do with reception. > Rather, it was a means of ensuring that most citizens would listen to Soviet > propaganda rather than to broadcasts from overseas that might lead them to > believe that things are better on the other side of the curtain. Of course > they may have used the reception issue as an excuse . . . Wire line "radio" has TWO advantages. 1. mandatory content. 2. cost Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 339888 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Black and White Radio for Ken G. In Idaho Date: 16 Aug 2006 21:15:41 -0700 Message-ID: <1155788141.304570.8070@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <12e7ga796tu3sf8@corp.supernews.com> Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > Hagstar wrote: > > > What relationship does the catalog pic have to the radio though? > > It's probably worth more. That's probably for auction too. Article: 339889 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S120... Date: 16 Aug 2006 21:16:58 -0700 Message-ID: <1155788218.751792.185890@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: Larry wrote: > Robert Sherrod wrote in news:Tb9Eg.135478$1i1.52777 > @attbi_s72: > > > Given that this S120 will be given to the granddaughter of the > > individual who is having it restored > > How old is this granddaughter? I'd hate to be the one to give a radio > that's a potential lethal shock hazard, like the S-120, to any young girl > and ultimately be responsible for her death, just for old-times-sake.... > > Isn't one side of the S-120's chassis hooked to the power line? I used to > get mild shocks off the ground screw on mine when I was "younger"...(c; We can tell where that led... Article: 339890 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Interesting distortion Date: 16 Aug 2006 21:18:25 -0700 Message-ID: <1155788305.851553.192070@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04> Larry wrote: > "Gary Tayman" wrote in > news:9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04: > > > However if I connect an AM/FM tuner to the AMT-3000, it's very > > distorted through the AK. I mean VERY distorted -- to the point where > > I thought the tuner was bad. But I tried a second tuner and it does > > the same thing. The gain, modulation, and compression controls do > > very little for the distortion. AM is okay, but FM is terribly > > distorted. > > > > I brought my Zenith H-500 TO into the room, turned it on and the FM > > radio sounds crystal clear through it. So the problem has to be in > > the AK, right? > > > > > > FM bandwidth and modulation index is proportional to audio drive. Turn > down the audio drive and the overmodulation, way outside even the > cheapest FM IF strip's bandwidth, will decrease. > > The trick on FM is to set the receiver to an FM broadcaster and adjust > the audio level of your receiver to the level you like to hear. Then, > tune the FM receiver to your AMT-3000 and adjust the audio drive to the > transmitter so it matches the audio level of the broadcast FM station > WITHOUT CHANGING THE RECEIVER VOLUME CONTROL. Your AMT-3000 is fairly > close to broadcast station FM deviation.....close enough for government > work....(c; > > Your neighbors in range will appreciate it....(c; Jimi Hendrix might've dug it though. Article: 339891 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> <12e7nfherk5ie81@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:28:00 -0500 Hagstar wrote: > You, Tim M., never make declarations based on nothing but speculation that > I can recall. You're also right the "think" is modifying. > > John H. > > > I just checked back in to find the apparent mess I made. I haven't posted much here in the last three years. I guess this is why. Tim, thank you for the kind words, you were absolutely right. John, sorry to have offended you. I'll just go back in my hole now. I should have read the thread more closely, and posted more clearly...or not at all. jak Article: 339892 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio Date: 16 Aug 2006 21:37:42 -0700 Message-ID: <1155789462.253599.237560@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: Jim Berg wrote: > Scott: Some of those Zenith exports are listed in Rider under chassis > number. It's a wood GE radio. Article: 339893 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Land Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 05:21:45 -0000 Message-ID: References: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> <1155688857.749094.312170@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> "Engineer" wrote in news:1155688857.749094.312170 @m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com: > Or use two back to back LED's Huh? Article: 339894 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: 16 Aug 2006 22:26:18 -0700 Message-ID: <1155792378.202072.198070@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: Jim Land NO SPAM wrote: > "Engineer" wrote in news:1155688857.749094.312170 > @m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com: > > > Or use two back to back LED's > > Huh? Where exactly were you gonna USE the lighting and why won't a small neon bulb work? Maybe I missed that. Article: 339895 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: 16 Aug 2006 22:30:20 -0700 Message-ID: <1155792620.666449.139230@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: William Sommerwerck wrote: > > A mS of thought will tell you that the series resistor > > gives no PIV protection. > > ms (millisecond), not mS (millisiemen). One's time another ain't, M$ definitely gives no PIF protection and MS. is a feminist issues magazine. At least I know I like pickled artichoke spears. Article: 339896 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Black and White Radio for Ken G. In Idaho Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 00:04:37 -0600 Message-ID: <29940-44E406F5-90@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net> References: <12e7ga796tu3sf8@corp.supernews.com> Thanks for the heads up ... but .. AKKK i see those ``door radios`` at yard sales and thrift shops and get many phone calls from people trying to sell those right here in town . I think Idaho stores must have sold 50 thousand of those . I have one right now with the same exact dial but the doors are on top ( lids) to repair for someone who loves it . I got a phone call tonight and went & got a RCA 105K console 10 blocks >from home .. dont know why i did . Article: 339897 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 00:47:34 -0600 Message-ID: <29939-44E41106-316@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net> References: <1155775393.656553.243120@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Can't post 50 times an hour anyway. Fingers and Google won't let you. Can i say something lacking in craftsmanship :-) Article: 339898 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:09:00 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> <12e7nfherk5ie81@corp.supernews.com> In jakdedert writes: >I just checked back in to find the apparent mess I made. I haven't >posted much here in the last three years. I guess this is why. Tim, >thank you for the kind words, you were absolutely right. >John, sorry to have offended you. I'll just go back in my hole now. I >should have read the thread more closely, and posted more clearly...or >not at all. It was a tempest in a teacup, really. Flipping around to the other side, I'd describe John as "passionate", s'all. And that passion has some damn good sides to it. Post away! Look at the good that came from this thread -- we got the definitive answer that 1) Yes, the wire will be twisted, and 2) It doesn't matter beyond a certain gauge because of the large ratio of length-per-twist to wire diameter. Can't speak for anyone else, but I'd been wondering for a long time what was going on there. Thanks, y'all! -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339899 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:20:46 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1155775393.656553.243120@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <29939-44E41106-316@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net> In <29939-44E41106-316@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net> goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) writes: >Can't post 50 times an hour anyway. Fingers and Google won't let you. >Can i say something lacking in craftsmanship :-) Were but that it would do some good. :) -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339900 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:33:28 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> <1155688857.749094.312170@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> In Jim Land writes: >"Engineer" wrote in news:1155688857.749094.312170 >@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com: >> Or use two back to back LED's >Huh? __|/|__ | |\| | ---| |--- |_|\|_| |/| Same idea he mentioned as using a parallel protection diode, just make the diode an LED instead. Not like I'd trust this, but all diodes will avalanche at some point when reverse biased and exhibit a zener effect. If the series resistor is large enough and the reverse current small enough it might survive without the added protection of a parallel diode. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339901 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Rick Fears Subject: Re: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT) Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:22:05 GMT Message-ID: References: <1155639358.064138.235100@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <3aiEg.2498$9v1.222@trnddc07> "Gary Tayman" wrote in news:3aiEg.2498$9v1.222@trnddc07: > I think he means -- "lift-able" top. The wood lid that lifts up to > expose the fact that there's no turntable inside. > > By the way, there was originally concern that this subject is > off-topic. Why? This is indeed an antique phono. My hope is that he > may find a turntable motor that fits correctly, turning this into a > nice unit. > > > Yes, I did mean liftable - fingers got tangled up... Under that lid is a cut-out shelf that clearly used to have a turntable of some sort on it. The reason I thought the post might have been somewhat off-topic was that there was no electrical/electronic component to the item and as this was my first post to the group I checked for any discussions on the group FAQ and found a slightly flamey thread and thought I might tread on toes if I didn't suggest the possibility that I might be off topic. Glad to know I'm not! I will eventually get around to putting up some photos of the item on some web site or other - I'll get back to the group when I have done so. Many thanks to all for your replies Regards Rick. Article: 339902 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: 17 Aug 2006 03:34:18 -0700 Message-ID: <1155810858.822279.144920@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155775393.656553.243120@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Tim Mullen wrote: > In <29939-44E41106-316@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net> goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) writes: > > >Can't post 50 times an hour anyway. Fingers and Google won't let you. > > >Can i say something lacking in craftsmanship :-) > > Were but that it would do some good. :) It's not like you all post a lot when I'm up...not like you post at all. My "world domination plan" is an optical delusion. And I slept til 4 pm and hadn't posted much for almost two hours while I worked on this thing. Article: 339903 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT) Date: 17 Aug 2006 03:47:03 -0700 Message-ID: <1155811623.532127.192170@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: Just don't mention 8-****** unless they are used as sculpture items, i.e. the lady in the crafts group somebody found that used them in the base of a lamp (lime green Jethro Tull tapes look rather pretty)... Article: 339904 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "flashbk13" Subject: crt tester advice Date: 17 Aug 2006 04:22:26 -0700 Message-ID: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Hi all, I have a 1948 motorolla tv model #VT71B-A (has 6 inch round tube). I see several crt testers on ebay, but have no idea what type to get that will test this type of small crt. Any info on whch type would be great. Also any info. on this model TV would be great. Does anyone have the sams manual or schematics for this tv? You can email me directly as well. Thank you, Rick. Article: 339905 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Eddie Brimer" Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: 17 Aug 2006 04:02:51 -0700 Message-ID: <1155812571.664370.241690@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Syl wrote: > "Eddie Brimer" wrote in message > > > nope... it's rocket science. got to have a special plastic, special > > oven and a vacuum chamber. only optically perfect dialcovers are > > acceptable. i beg to differ....on all counts. > > Not everyone is satisfied with distorted dial covers. > > If you've never seen a vacuum formed dial cover then you don't > know what you're missing. Sure anyone can sandwich a piece of > transparent piece of plastic between two pieces of plywood. > Been there, done that. But there is a better way. > > No one ever said your technique isn't acceptable, on the contrary, > but like everything else in life, if you put the effort and the technique, > you invariably get better results. > > You should know, look at the effort you invested in the mirror dial > and the results you got... > > Syl distorted dialcovers?? never seen a problem. they look better than original probably. the mirrors are a little different scale from a molded plastic dialcover don't you think? most of these are going in 20.00-50.00 radios anyway. most nice radios didn't have plastic dialcovers. Article: 339906 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mike Koste" Subject: Unusual Sparton Chairside Date: 17 Aug 2006 05:13:42 -0700 Message-ID: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Can't say I've ever seen one of these before: http://cgi.ebay.com/SPARTON-Table-Tube-Radio-ART-DECO-Glass-TOP-shelf-WORKS_W0QQitemZ130017750671QQihZ003QQcategoryZ38034QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Mike Koste Gobs of Knobs Ambler, PA Article: 339907 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: ag564@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Dan Beaton) Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: 17 Aug 2006 12:32:55 GMT Message-ID: References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> > can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? Works fine for me, although it did take a few seconds to load. I use MS Internet Explorer. Dan (This account is not used for email.) Article: 339908 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" Subject: Has anyone heard from OTRCAT? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:36:46 GMT Last month I got an e-mail from OTRCAT, stating they have an updated CD set of Command Performance. So I ordered it. No response. I e-mailed and inquired. No response. I have since e-mailed Jon a few more times with only silence. This is not like him; usually he's excellent. Has anyone heard from him lately? Is he okay? -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 339909 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: WTB: Philco Bakelite Cap Block References: <1155735532.576360.280300@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155751118.964275.240040@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 08:54:58 -0400 So you're OK? m82a1pa wrote: > Appreciate it, Ken. I've located a 3615-X which is the 7 lugger - > needed a few more lugs on it. > Article: 339910 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "the MAGNATE" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 17 Aug 2006 04:19:52 -0700 Message-ID: <1155813592.244475.63520@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> jakdedert wrote: > Scott W. Harvey wrote: > > Peter Wieck wrote: > >> 60s junk then, 60s junk now. > >> > > More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very > > much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so > > it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more > > conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood. > > > OTOH, when Pioneer wanted a killer speaker, they hired away JBL's chief > designer to come up with the HPM series...flagship offering being the > HPM 100. This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the > JBL L-100's (designed by the same fellow), which were among the most > popular speakers of the time. I've got a pair of these and they're > brilliant. The cab's are nearly 1 1/2" thick, generously braced > internally; carbon fiber woofers...kick serious butt at all volumes. > Each speaker weighs in at around 60 lbs. and listed for something like > $800 a pair in 1977 dollars. > > As the decade closed, they began to use cheaper materials and cheapen > the design...becoming more like the Japanese speakers you describe. The > later HPM series were not the same. > > jak I have a pair of run of the mill Sonys that weigh 55 pounds each. You don't have to spend that kind of money to get a good speaker anymore. You can get high end vintage stuff on the cheap, that is BETTER than what's in the stores now- and what's in the stores now is ALSO going very cheaply. The market is saturated. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=004&item=140018503480&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1 JBL's were over-rated. No one in this area even bothered with them. Great for going deaf playing them outside at a drunken keg party during a NASCAR race or clambake or something- that's about it. Article: 339911 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "the MAGNATE" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 17 Aug 2006 04:22:26 -0700 Message-ID: <1155813745.947802.66440@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Scott W. Harvey wrote: > Peter Wieck wrote: > > 60s junk then, 60s junk now. > > > More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very > much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so > it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more > conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood. > > As most of the consumer audio business gravitated toward the pacific > rim, this is the one area of mass-produced consumer electronics where > USA manufacturers remained competitive and respected. I have NEVER heard > a speaker system from Japan that sounded even as good as units that any > US no-name manufacturer could produce. > > The Japanese put out some fairly decent sounding gear in the 1970s, but > when it came to speaker design they were almost universally clueless. > The only exception was Pioneer, and then only as a supplier of speaker > elements for other manufacturers. > > -Scott You will have a hard time discrediting the Japanese on electronics. ALL of the high end USA stereo amps were made by them from the 1970's onward. Marantz, Pioneer, Yamaha, Technics, Kenwood, Sony, JVC were all made in Japan. As well as all the high-end Akai-Pioneer-Sony-Teac reel to reels and component tape decks. Are you saying they can't build a speaker if they wanted to ? Yeh, right.... Article: 339912 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "William Sommerwerck" References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155813745.947802.66440@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 04:31:36 -0700 Message-ID: > You will have a hard time discrediting the Japanese on electronics. > ALL of the high end USA stereo amps were made by them from > the 1970's onward. Audio Research? Crown? Krell? conrad/johnson? etc, etc, etc > Are you saying they can't build a speaker if they wanted to? Wanting to is not the same as knowing how to. Article: 339913 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: John Bachman Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:41:19 -0400 Message-ID: References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <5988-44E3B0EF-196@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:57:35 -0600, goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) wrote: >John i use a heat gun . Put the wood plug on the bench or floor , >plastic on top of it then the wood frame on top of that heat the plastic >while pushing down on the wood frame both sides with long sticks to keep >your hands out of the heat . >I prefer thicker plastic , it comes out nicer and flaw free . If you >overheat it will bubble . >Takes a half hour to make the wood parts so they are nice ( not some >quick 2 year olds school project ) Takes a couple minutes to make the >cover . > >I only do this 3 to 4 times a year . Ahhh. When I first started making dial covers I tried using a heat gun to touch up defects that came out of the oven/vacuum forming machine I had built. I immediately ran into the bubbling problem. I found it very difficult to use a heat gun and avoid bubbles and gave up on that technique. You were apparantly more perserverent than I. I ended up rebuilding my oven/vacuum forming machine three times before I got it right. Now it works great. Eddie is right, it may not be rocket science but it sure has a lot of detail to it. I like the resin molds as I can get a super-smooth finish. I try to match the original cover thickness unless the customer wants something else. Most are 0.020" but a few are thicker. I am just finishing up a Philco 41-605 which has been a good challenge. It is approximately 7" X 4" including mounting flange. The mold is nearly done and I expect to try my first shot at it today. John reproduction dialcovers at www.anatekcorp.com/dialcovers/dialcovers.htm . Article: 339914 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: John Bachman Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 10:25:30 -0400 Message-ID: References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> On Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:21:35 GMT, "Gary Tayman" wrote: > >"jim menning" wrote in message >news:xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com... >> >> If you look at the posting tree, you'll see that Bill was responding to >> "JOHN D" who reported that he was having trouble accessing Bill's website. >> Apparently JOHN D is the first to report any problem opening the site to >> Bill. FWIW, the site opens fine for me. >> >> jim menning > >Okay, let's get this straight once and for all. Bill has sent me e-mails >several times, and has mentioned the website, www.dialcover.com, with each >one. I have tried many, many times, including today, and have never been >able to access it. When I've responded to Bill about it, he says I'm the >only one that's ever had a problem. > >Now John D is the only one that's having a problem. Apparently some of us >are getting it fine. So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we >can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? >What are you using for browser? Does anyone have suggestions as to why it >cannot be viewed by some computers? > >For me personally, I've used Earthlink in the past, now I'm using Verizon >(both DSL). I'm running Windows XP. I've tried Verizon's own browser, >along with Internet Explorer, Netscape, and Mozilla. Doesn't work with any >of 'em. Fine for me. Using XP and Firefox. John Article: 339915 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 08:04:35 -0400 Message-ID: <12e8mqu2ub5ooad@corp.supernews.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> <12e7nfherk5ie81@corp.supernews.com> "Tim Mullen" wrote in message news:ec14mc$r1p$1@reader2.panix.com... > In jakdedert > writes: > > It was a tempest in a teacup, really. Exactly, jak, ignore me about 50% :) John H. Article: 339916 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:21:35 GMT "jim menning" wrote in message news:xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > If you look at the posting tree, you'll see that Bill was responding to > "JOHN D" who reported that he was having trouble accessing Bill's website. > Apparently JOHN D is the first to report any problem opening the site to > Bill. FWIW, the site opens fine for me. > > jim menning Okay, let's get this straight once and for all. Bill has sent me e-mails several times, and has mentioned the website, www.dialcover.com, with each one. I have tried many, many times, including today, and have never been able to access it. When I've responded to Bill about it, he says I'm the only one that's ever had a problem. Now John D is the only one that's having a problem. Apparently some of us are getting it fine. So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? What are you using for browser? Does anyone have suggestions as to why it cannot be viewed by some computers? For me personally, I've used Earthlink in the past, now I'm using Verizon (both DSL). I'm running Windows XP. I've tried Verizon's own browser, along with Internet Explorer, Netscape, and Mozilla. Doesn't work with any of 'em. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 339917 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:39:10 -0500 Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? From: John Stone Message-ID: References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155679748.474995.186400@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155767299.218479.16180@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> On 8/16/06 5:28 PM, in article 1155767299.218479.16180@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com, "the MAGNATE" wrote >> >> >> >>> The JVC's I do not know about. I have >>> never listened to them. >> >> I have. They're awful. Just look at the configuration of the drivers. >> There's no acoustical design expertise at all to these. > > > the cabinets are made better than the average speaker of today- I mean > what is consumer grade today ?? tiny surround sound POS speakers > Well, those JVC's were certainly not meant to be "average" speakers back then. So try comparing apples to apples and compare them to a nice floor standing speeaker made today. There are plenty available. Then tell me what's "better" about the JVC cabinets. Bigger? Sure. Uglier? Absolutely. But most good modern floor speakers use at least 1" MDF rather than plywood, and cabinet walls are routinely braced, which was seldom the case back then. In those days, the Japanese did little more than cheap imitations of JBL's, Altecs, and so on. Article: 339918 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "N Cook" Subject: Wobbly valves/tubes Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 15:21:44 +0100 Message-ID: Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it wobbling ? -- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ Article: 339919 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:32:49 GMT Gee, that's not a half bad looking unit! Most chairsides I've seen are small, cheap, and ugly. One exception -- I used to have a Zenith chairside that actually was a cool radio -- it had wraparound louvers, and a glass top with the black dial underneath. It had the tuning knob (weighted) and four other knobs. I no longer have it, and have never seen one since, however I have seen a similar one with three knobs, arranged triangularly, instead of four. I suppose I had a pretty decent set that I should not have gotten rid of. However there is a very good reason why I did get rid of it. It goes, as I recall, on the right side of the chair. It requires of course a wall outlet, and an external antenna. Regardless of whether it fits the room decor, it seems every place I have ever tried to put it, it seems impossible to arrange the room around it in such a way that it fits correctly, and doesn't have wires dangling across the floor. At the time (about 15 years ago) I had trouble giving it away. Now it's probably worth something astronomical? -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Mike Koste" wrote in message news:1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Can't say I've ever seen one of these before: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/SPARTON-Table-Tube-Radio-ART-DECO-Glass-TOP-shelf-WORKS_W0QQitemZ130017750671QQihZ003QQcategoryZ38034QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > > Mike Koste > Gobs of Knobs > Ambler, PA > Article: 339920 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio Date: 17 Aug 2006 05:42:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1155818560.173803.207010@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: I got the model number...it is X 457 http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/general_el_x_457.html Unfortunately no schematics...not even at nostalgiaair air... anybody now where can get one? Thanks.. ===================== Steven wrote: > Jim Berg wrote: > > Scott: Some of those Zenith exports are listed in Rider under chassis > > number. > > It's a wood GE radio. Article: 339921 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 13:01:28 GMT "Gary Tayman" > let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? I can > What are you using for browser? M$ Internet explorer 6.0.2900.2180.xpsp_sp2_rtm.040803-2158 M$ Windows XP SP2 basic installation (no updates), included firewall has been disabled. ISDN 64K connected. Since i run it with Sygate Personal Firewall and Kaspersky Anti Virus 6 i use explorer with safety settings at LOW, this because some websites were impossible to be opened also in MED-LOW mode. For M$ Wondows users i suggest to open the command console (that sort of fake DOS) and edit: PING WWW.DIALCOVER.COM check the answer, i got: Packets: sent=4, received=4, lost=0 Answers time: min= 237ms, max= 2474ms, med= 815ms *NOTE= time extimated from Italy, you should get less time in ms. Check received packets, if you're getting ALL 4 then the trouble is your browser; if you get less, 3 or 2 or 1 packet, than the trouble is usually by the ISP; if you get no answer packets the trouble could be your ISP but more often is due by incorrect settings/working firewalls. XP users: if you get all 4 answers but your browser will not display the website you may check also: - security options, try setting them at LOW level; - XP services: the browser is not able to resolve DNS addresses, check the related service is activated in something like 'Administrating Services' (control panel folder) option SERVICES (two gears icon); in the same folder you'll find the option named something like 'Events Wiever' (squared icon), choose it, if the service has been activated it will show you correct and incorrect events log. Options name could be different, sorry, i'm trying to translate them, my XP is in italian. Hope this helps. -- Daniele ^___^ http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339922 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Message-ID: <22%Eg.4765$zg.985@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:28:14 GMT "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08... > > > For me personally, I've used Earthlink in the past, now I'm using Verizon (both > DSL). I'm running Windows XP. I've tried Verizon's own browser, along with > Internet Explorer, Netscape, and Mozilla. Doesn't work with any of 'em. > Windows XP with all the updates, MS Internet explorer 6.0.2900.2180.xpsp_sp2_gdr.050301-1519. Never had a problem with Bill's site. jim menning Article: 339923 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bob Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes References: Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:44:22 GMT N Cook wrote: > Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to > the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it > wobbling ? > > -- > Diverse Devices, Southampton, England > electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on > http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ > > > > Use glue. That's what held it in place in the first place. I have used ordinary cement, like Duco, with success. Bob Article: 339924 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: bicyclingg@yahoo.com Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 17 Aug 2006 06:44:49 -0700 Message-ID: <1155822289.324969.210630@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> the MAGNATE wrote: > Scott W. Harvey wrote: > > Peter Wieck wrote: > > > 60s junk then, 60s junk now. > > > > > More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very > > much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so > > it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more > > conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood. > > > > As most of the consumer audio business gravitated toward the pacific > > rim, this is the one area of mass-produced consumer electronics where > > USA manufacturers remained competitive and respected. I have NEVER heard > > a speaker system from Japan that sounded even as good as units that any > > US no-name manufacturer could produce. > > > > The Japanese put out some fairly decent sounding gear in the 1970s, but > > when it came to speaker design they were almost universally clueless. > > The only exception was Pioneer, and then only as a supplier of speaker > > elements for other manufacturers. > > > > -Scott > > > You will have a hard time discrediting the Japanese on electronics. > ALL of the high end USA stereo amps were made by them from the 1970's > onward. Marantz, Pioneer, Yamaha, Technics, Kenwood, Sony, JVC were > all made in Japan. As well as all the high-end Akai-Pioneer-Sony-Teac > reel to reels and component tape decks. > > Are you saying they can't build a speaker if they wanted to ? > > Yeh, right.... Charlie Nudo, why did you threaten me, tell me to name the time and place and when I did you suddenly became a coward? Why did you go overboard over something that happened on Usenet? Why did you call my wifes employer? Why did you harrass an innocent woman? Why did you say you were going to contact her boss over a flamewar between you and I? Why did you post her work phone number and tell people to call her at work? What kind of person does these things? Charlie Nudo does. Article: 339925 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes References: Message-ID: <_y%Eg.1161$Tl4.1095@dukeread06> Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 11:03:07 -0400 Super glue is very good, fairly heat resistant. Epoxy is better, and furnace cement is best, but hard to get in the groove because of the grit. Ken N Cook wrote: > Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to > the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it > wobbling ? > > -- > Diverse Devices, Southampton, England > electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on > http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ > > > > Article: 339926 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Peter Wieck" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:03:37 -0700 Message-ID: <1155827017.399206.5230@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> William Sommerwerck wrote: > Wanting to is not the same as knowing how to. William, you are preaching to the invincibly ignorant (and also stupid as it happens). Nudo is not receiving the proper shock and awe over his crap, is being treated as the pariah he is base on his dealings, and does not seem to be willing to understand the smallest differences between "quantity" and "quality". BIG = BETTER, and OLD must necessarily be GOOD. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Article: 339927 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Peter Wieck" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:10:01 -0700 Message-ID: <1155827401.888880.326220@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> jakdedert wrote: > HPM 100. This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the > JBL L-100's I remember both of these. I agree that they were very, very similar. But absolutely not to my taste. 'Nuff said. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Article: 339928 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Peter Wieck" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:11:49 -0700 Message-ID: <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> jakdedert wrote: > HPM 100. This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the > JBL L-100's I remember both of these. I agree that they were very, very similar. But absolutely not to my taste. 'Nuff said. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Article: 339929 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Carter Cook" Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:20:54 -0700 Message-ID: <1155828054.110654.209060@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> A few months ago, I found an attractive looking chairside case in a junk shop. The radio chassis and speaker were missing. I could tell >from the shape of the knob cutouts and the surviving plastic bezel that the original radio inside was a Belmont/Airline. A later, close inspection in my shop revealed that the case was skillfully custom made by a woodworker in his home shop. >From the looks of the case I had, I'd say the plans were probably published in some late 30s or early 40s woodworking publication. Perhaps the Sparton was also a home shop project. Article: 339930 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Peter Wieck" Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:32:48 -0700 Message-ID: <1155828768.630072.199090@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: N Cook wrote: > Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to > the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it > wobbling ? > Gap-filler Super Glue ("ZAP" brand is best) is fast and easy for onesies-twosies. If you have a bunch of them, get high-temp epoxy at an automotive supply (JB Weld is a common US brand), mix up a batch and have-at. Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA Article: 339931 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44e48dde$0$4518$e4fe514c@news.xs4all.nl> From: maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> Date: 17 Aug 2006 15:40:14 GMT Gary Tayman wrote: > Now John D is the only one that's having a problem. Apparently some of us > are getting it fine. So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we > can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? > What are you using for browser? Does anyone have suggestions as to why it > cannot be viewed by some computers? I can get it perfectly fine from The Netherlands, using Opera for a browser. The HTML code looks conservative enough to work in any old browser. It must be some sort of network issue, apparently. -- Met vriendelijke groet, Maarten Bakker. Article: 339932 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "m82a1pa" Subject: Re: WTB: Philco Bakelite Cap Block Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:54:09 -0700 Message-ID: <1155830049.484247.302420@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155735532.576360.280300@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Sorry, Ken. Didn't make that too clear. I'm OK 'cause I needed a six lugger and found one of those. I do appreciate it, however. Article: 339933 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve McVoy" Subject: Re: crt tester advice Date: 17 Aug 2006 09:17:11 -0700 Message-ID: <1155831431.025807.108050@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> That set uses the 7JP4. I don't know of a tester that will test that tube, but you can make an adapter using a base from a standard tube with wires going to the filament, cathode, control grid and second grid of the 7JP4. An excellent 7JP4 will read only about 3 (full scale being 10). However, I've tested a bunch of 7JP4s in this way, and have found that there is not necessarily a correlation between the reading on the tester and how good the tube looks. The only certain way to test the tube is to restore the set, or try the tube in a good set. lashbk13 wrote: > Hi all, > I have a 1948 motorolla tv model #VT71B-A (has 6 inch round tube). I > see several crt testers on ebay, but have no idea what type to get that > will test this type of small crt. Any info on whch type would be great. > Also any info. on this model TV would be great. Does anyone have the > sams manual or schematics for this tv? You can email me directly as > well. Thank you, Rick. Article: 339934 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <14718-44E384DF-29@storefull-3111.bay.webtv.net> <1155789462.253599.237560@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155818560.173803.207010@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:51:16 -0400 Message-ID: as I was thinking.... X is for EXPORT model in GE. Q is the code for RCA. I think E was used by some other manf's... cant remember if Zenith used that. I've only seen one Zenith export model, someone on this NG pointed it out about 4 years ago I think, it was on eBay and went fairly cheap. E in Detrola model code means "with eye tube" however. Mark Oppat wrote in message news:1155818560.173803.207010@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com... > I got the model number...it is X 457 > http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/general_el_x_457.html > Unfortunately no schematics...not even at nostalgiaair air... > anybody now where can get one? > Thanks.. > ===================== > Steven wrote: > > Jim Berg wrote: > > > Scott: Some of those Zenith exports are listed in Rider under chassis > > > number. > > > > It's a wood GE radio. > > Article: 339935 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: James Sweet Subject: Re: crt tester advice References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 17:03:53 GMT flashbk13 wrote: > Hi all, > I have a 1948 motorolla tv model #VT71B-A (has 6 inch round tube). I > see several crt testers on ebay, but have no idea what type to get that > will test this type of small crt. Any info on whch type would be great. > Also any info. on this model TV would be great. Does anyone have the > sams manual or schematics for this tv? You can email me directly as > well. Thank you, Rick. > Why not just test the CRT in the set? There's not too many faults that won't be apparent. Article: 339936 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: James Sweet Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes References: Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 17:05:30 GMT N Cook wrote: > Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to > the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it > wobbling ? > > -- > Diverse Devices, Southampton, England > electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on > http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ > > > > I had this problem with a couple of them, I dribbled superglue around the base being careful not to get it on the outside and then them tightly together for several minutes and set it aside to cure. Seems to be holding up so far. Article: 339937 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: James Sweet Subject: Re: It speaks! References: Message-ID: <5o1Fg.66614$u05.36976@trnddc01> Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 17:08:17 GMT Sal Brisindi wrote: > Hi James, > Hows things? Congratulations purchasing and repairing your 1st tube > radio although you fixed many other items in your life. I promise you > one thing, 1 or 2 radios is not enough... :-) > > Regards, > Sal Brisindi > Things have been good in general, I'm excited to make further progress on this thing but I've been limited to an evening or two a week, life, work and other things tend to keep me from my hobbies far too often. You wouldn't believe the queue of projects I have stacked up, or maybe you would, I suspect it's the same way for you. Got any recommendations for an antenna for this thing? I noticed there's three terminals on the back, one is apparently ground, the other two are connected to a piece of thin stranded zipcord that was on the set when I got it. Obviously there's better solutions. Article: 339938 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Chris F." References: Subject: Re: Telefunken Schematic Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 17:36:54 GMT Similar, except my chassis also has an ECL86. The name on this is Sonata, not Allegro. "Daniele" wrote in message news:ouNEg.73420$_J1.732783@twister2.libero.it... > > "Chris F." >> Does anyone have, or know where I can find, a schematic for a Telefunken >> 5183wk console? >> Thanks. > > Is this the Allegro Stereo HiFi 5183W? > Tubeline ECC85 ECH81 EBF89 EBC91 EM84 ECC83 EL84 ? > > -- > Daniele ^___^ > http://www.tuberadio.it > > Article: 339939 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:42:04 -0500 Message-ID: <44e49d44$0$6832$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:RlZEg.62837$hH1.2798@trnddc08... >At the time (about 15 years ago) I had trouble giving it away. Now it's >probably worth something astronomical? Um, yeah. I don't have my Zenith books handy but from the description that sounds like a 10S147 and it's a $300+ radio nowadays. -p. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Article: 339940 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Phil Nelson" References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 10:42:51 -0700 Message-ID: A visitor to my website sent this photo of one a couple of years ago. http://antiqueradio.org/art/temp/chairside.jpg The photo came from a now-defunct radio museum in Kentucky. The visitor said he was looking at an identical radio in New Mexico. So we know there are at least three :-) If you search for "genuine Sparton chairside" in the Google archives of this group, you'll find a further discussion. http://groups.google.com/group/rec.antiques.radio+phono?hl=en Apparently a model 578. The design may be reverse-painted glass. Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios http://antiqueradio.org/index.html Article: 339941 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Tom Mills" Subject: Stromberg dial scale help needed Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 13:59:03 -0400 Message-ID: <44ednQtVHNHxM3nZnZ2dnUVZ_s6dnZ2d@trueband.net> I'm looking for a Stromberg Carlson 430M dial scale scan. I have one that the glass is broken and one half missing. I could post a picture on binaries if needed? Any help will be greatly appreciated. -- Tom Mills Article: 339942 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" Subject: DH Distributors...anyone had contact lately???? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:33:25 -0400 Message-ID: <5IOdnTcYWf8BKHnZnZ2dnUVZ_vOdnZ2d@comcast.com> David Headley at DH Distributors in Wichita, KS makes capacitor cans for the Jukebox trade, mostly, but also sells other parts including the repro '42 Zenith dial cover (or did). I have been calling his phone for weeks with no answer. Sent a letter, no reply. Anyone heard anything about him? We were discussing a China-direct capacitor bulk purchase some months ago. Mark Oppat Article: 339943 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> <12e7nfherk5ie81@corp.supernews.com> <12e8mqu2ub5ooad@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 13:33:46 -0500 Hagstar wrote: > "Tim Mullen" wrote in message > news:ec14mc$r1p$1@reader2.panix.com... >> In jakdedert >> writes: > > >> It was a tempest in a teacup, really. > > Exactly, jak, ignore me about 50% :) > > John H. > > > Thanks. jak Article: 339944 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 13:41:04 -0500 Peter Wieck wrote: > jakdedert wrote: > >> HPM 100. This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the >> JBL L-100's > > I remember both of these. I agree that they were very, very similar. > But absolutely not to my taste. 'Nuff said. > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA > > Yeah...this has gone pretty far off-topic (mostly because of the x-posting). I just wanted to point out that there were respectful (and respected) Japanese speakers built in the 70's. Taste is a whole other issue. jak Article: 339945 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 16:17:13 -0400 Message-ID: <12e9jmmb94s7061@corp.supernews.com> References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> The current high bidder is our own Jeff A. John H. Article: 339946 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Martin Leese Subject: Technics turntable tonearm lowering Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 20:51:39 GMT Hi, I have a vintage Technics SL-1500 turntable. This is a manual turntable, and you raise and lower a lever to raise and lower the tonearm. This mechanism was damped, so that if you lowered the lever quickly the tonearm was still lowered gently. This was achieved with a metal tube filled with silicone grease. OK, the silicone grease has leaked out over the decades, so the lowering mechanism is no longer gentle. I have tried re-filling the metal tube with ordinary silicone grease, but it wasn't thick enough. From where can I obtain grease thick enough to work in the damper for the manual tonearm lowering mechanism? -- Many thanks, Martin Leese E-mail: please@see.Web.for.e-mail.INVALID Web: http://members.tripod.com/martin_leese/ Article: 339947 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 15:56:03 -0500 Subject: Re: Technics turntable tonearm lowering From: John Stone Message-ID: References: On 8/17/06 3:51 PM, in article vF4Fg.9905$Nz6.4253@edtnps82, "Martin Leese" wrote: > Hi, > > I have a vintage Technics SL-1500 turntable. > This is a manual turntable, and you raise and > lower a lever to raise and lower the tonearm. > This mechanism was damped, so that if you > lowered the lever quickly the tonearm was still > lowered gently. This was achieved with a metal > tube filled with silicone grease. > > OK, the silicone grease has leaked out over the > decades, so the lowering mechanism is no longer > gentle. I have tried re-filling the metal tube > with ordinary silicone grease, but it wasn't > thick enough. > > From where can I obtain grease thick enough to > work in the damper for the manual tonearm > lowering mechanism? Check out this place: http://www.turntablebasics.com/silicone.html Article: 339948 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" References: Subject: Re: Telefunken Schematic Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 21:17:32 GMT I have some references with others 'Sonata' but all of them have a couple of ECL86 so the tubeline would be ECC85 ECH81 EBF89 EBC91 EM84 ECC83 ECL86 ECL86 Tell me if it may be of help. -- Daniele ^___^ http://www.tuberadio.it "Chris F." ha scritto nel messaggio news:WO1Fg.50740$pu3.588888@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca... > Similar, except my chassis also has an ECL86. The name on this is Sonata, > not Allegro. > > "Daniele" wrote in message > news:ouNEg.73420$_J1.732783@twister2.libero.it... >> >> "Chris F." >>> Does anyone have, or know where I can find, a schematic for a Telefunken >>> 5183wk console? >>> Thanks. >> >> Is this the Allegro Stereo HiFi 5183W? >> Tubeline ECC85 ECH81 EBF89 EBC91 EM84 ECC83 EL84 ? >> >> -- >> Daniele ^___^ >> http://www.tuberadio.it >> >> > > > Article: 339949 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 21:51:32 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> In "Gary Tayman" writes: >Now John D is the only one that's having a problem. Apparently some of us >are getting it fine. So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we >can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? >What are you using for browser? Does anyone have suggestions as to why it >cannot be viewed by some computers? Works for me. Lynx on Solaris from 166.84.167.79. >For me personally, I've used Earthlink in the past, now I'm using Verizon >(both DSL). I'm running Windows XP. I've tried Verizon's own browser, >along with Internet Explorer, Netscape, and Mozilla. Doesn't work with any >of 'em. I can see him via Qwest's looking glass in Tampa. Couldn't find an LG for Verizon. Maybe there's a reason for that? :) -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339950 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jfeng@my-deja.com Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S120... Date: 17 Aug 2006 14:59:39 -0700 Message-ID: <1155851979.377216.15090@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: Larry wrote: > Isn't one side of the S-120's chassis hooked to the power line? I used to > get mild shocks off the ground screw on mine when I was "younger"...(c; > If I were doing the restoration work, I would retrofit an isolation transformer. Article: 339951 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:04:39 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155813745.947802.66440@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> In "William Sommerwerck" writes: >> You will have a hard time discrediting the Japanese on electronics. >> ALL of the high end USA stereo amps were made by them from >> the 1970's onward. >Audio Research? Crown? Krell? conrad/johnson? etc, etc, etc Adcom, Levinson, Pass, Aragon, VTL, etc, etc, etc... Hell, walk into any stereo store that doesn't also sell toasters and there's a wall full of USA-made amplifiers. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339952 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:17:11 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> In "Phil Nelson" writes: >Apparently a model 578. The design may be reverse-painted glass. Description says it is. The auction also claims "THERE ARE SPEAKERS ON BOTH THE FRONT AND BACK". I doubt this; I'd guess the backside grille cloth is there for ventilation, or to make the design symmetrical. Which is kind of odd, since the radio would likely be positioned against a wall where you couldn't see the back. Neat set. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339953 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:18:32 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <12e9jmmb94s7061@corp.supernews.com> In <12e9jmmb94s7061@corp.supernews.com> "Hagstar" writes: > The current high bidder is our own Jeff A. Hey, Jeff -- if ya get it you better hope nobody ships a machinist's vise in that Greyhound along with your radio. :) :) -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339954 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> Subject: I pinged it, it panned it Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:32:49 GMT I did the ping and the response was, cannot find www.dialcover.com. Poor Bill. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Daniele" wrote in message news:IMZEg.73440$zy5.1341474@twister1.libero.it... > > "Gary Tayman" > >> let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? > > I can > >> What are you using for browser? > > M$ Internet explorer 6.0.2900.2180.xpsp_sp2_rtm.040803-2158 > M$ Windows XP SP2 basic installation (no updates), included > firewall has been disabled. > ISDN 64K connected. > Since i run it with Sygate Personal Firewall and Kaspersky Anti Virus 6 > i use explorer with safety settings at LOW, this because some > websites were impossible to be opened also in MED-LOW mode. > For M$ Wondows users i suggest to open the command console (that sort of > fake DOS) > and edit: PING WWW.DIALCOVER.COM > check the answer, i got: > Packets: sent=4, received=4, lost=0 > Answers time: min= 237ms, max= 2474ms, med= 815ms > *NOTE= time extimated from Italy, you should get less time in ms. > > Check received packets, if you're getting ALL 4 then the trouble is your > browser; > if you get less, 3 or 2 or 1 packet, than the trouble is usually by the > ISP; > if you get no answer packets the trouble could be your ISP but more often > is due by incorrect settings/working firewalls. > > XP users: if you get all 4 answers but your browser will not display the > website > you may check also: > - security options, try setting them at LOW level; > - XP services: the browser is not able to resolve DNS addresses, check the > related > service is activated in something like 'Administrating Services' (control > panel folder) > option SERVICES (two gears icon); in the same folder you'll find the > option > named something like 'Events Wiever' (squared icon), choose it, if the > service has > been activated it will show you correct and incorrect events log. > > Options name could be different, sorry, i'm trying to translate them, my > XP is in italian. > > Hope this helps. > > -- > Daniele ^___^ > http://www.tuberadio.it > > Article: 339955 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:34:00 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> In Tim Mullen writes: >In "Gary Tayman" writes: >>Now John D is the only one that's having a problem. Apparently some of us >>are getting it fine. So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we >>can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? >>What are you using for browser? Does anyone have suggestions as to why it >>cannot be viewed by some computers? > Works for me. Lynx on Solaris from 166.84.167.79. Re-reading my post I realized this was not the most helpful. Figure it out this way: You can see other sites, right? So your browser isn't broken. Other people, including me, can see Bill's site, so his server isn't broken. That (usually) leaves the stuff in between. I can see Bill's server using another ISP in Tampa, so the problem is =probably= your ISP not passing traffic to his ISP. Routing's fouled up somewhere. OTOH, you're on a Microsoft box, where heaven knows what can go wrong. If you have another one of those benighted things in your house, try it. Although if you did you probably would've tried it already. As Daniele suggested, can you ping 216.111.184.2 (dialcover.com)? Which reminds me of another basic troubleshooting step: use IP numbers instead of names to rule out DNS problems. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339956 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "flashbk13" Subject: Re: crt tester advice Date: 17 Aug 2006 15:37:28 -0700 Message-ID: <1155854247.942810.159320@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Thanks all for the replies, Rick jim menning wrote: > "James Sweet" wrote in message > news:Zj1Fg.66611$u05.62310@trnddc01... > > flashbk13 wrote: > >> Hi all, > >> I have a 1948 motorolla tv model #VT71B-A (has 6 inch round tube). I > >> see several crt testers on ebay, but have no idea what type to get that > >> will test this type of small crt. Any info on whch type would be great. > >> Also any info. on this model TV would be great. Does anyone have the > >> sams manual or schematics for this tv? You can email me directly as > >> well. Thank you, Rick. > >> > > > > > > Why not just test the CRT in the set? There's not too many faults that won't be > > apparent. > > The 7JP4 CRTs are getting quite difficult (expensive) to find in good condition. It > is wise to test the tube before going through the expense of rebuilding the set, and > then discovering the CRT is bad. > > jim menning Article: 339957 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:41:47 GMT In article , caradio@verizon.net says... > > > >who can get it and who can't? >What are you using for browser? Does anyone have suggestions as to why it >cannot be viewed by some computers? >Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Hi Gary... I use Windoze XP with all the updates.. Browsers is Microsofts Explorer and Netscape... In Explorer ... if I type in Dialcover.com and hit the go button it AIN"T THERE... however if I type in WWW.Dialcover.com and hit the go button the site comes up perfectly... Don't ask me what the difference is... most websites.... Microshits IE knows enough to put in the HTTP and the WWW ... but for some reason on Bill's site... it can't find it without the WWW inserted by me.. Using Netscape 4.78 if I type in dialcover.com I get some page about Overlin.net that sure isn't what I wanted. If I type in www.dialcover.com It searches and searches forever for the website... and comes up with NOTHING... something about check with site administrator or some other such crap... If I type in http://www.dialcover.com/ Viola... It finds the page... and it comes up ... but its hosed up... Bill's picture is at the top next to the nice lady picture.. below that are a bunch of clickable links to the other pages.. all the other pages also are a little hosed up but there... so site isn't built to be viewed properly by Netscape Older 4.78 version ... John k9uwa Article: 339958 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: I pinged it, it panned it Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:44:23 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> In "Gary Tayman" writes: >I did the ping and the response was, cannot find www.dialcover.com. Try pinging 216.111.184.2. If that works, here's how to talk to a web server by hand (for anyone else who's curious, too): gothicdigital.com>21# telnet 216.111.184.2 80 We're connecting to his address on port 80, the usual port number used by HTTP servers. You'll get a response like this: Trying 216.111.184.2... Connected to 216.111.184.2. Escape character is '^]'. Now type: GET / This asks for the root (index) page. For Bill's site I get back: Oberlin.net Home
This is a good way to see what's going on because it doesn't rely on *any* web browser. If you get a response that looks like decent html code (just eyeball it) but you still can't display the page in your browser, then you know it's a problem with your browser. However, it sounds like you can't even get that far, yet. If you can't ping his address, you definitely have a network problem. But beware! Not all sites respond to a ping. Bill's does, however. Can you ping me (166.84.167.79)? I do allow pings. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339959 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: James Sweet Subject: Re: crt tester advice References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:49:59 GMT jim menning wrote: > "James Sweet" wrote in message > news:Zj1Fg.66611$u05.62310@trnddc01... > >>flashbk13 wrote: >> >>>Hi all, >>>I have a 1948 motorolla tv model #VT71B-A (has 6 inch round tube). I >>>see several crt testers on ebay, but have no idea what type to get that >>>will test this type of small crt. Any info on whch type would be great. >>>Also any info. on this model TV would be great. Does anyone have the >>>sams manual or schematics for this tv? You can email me directly as >>>well. Thank you, Rick. >>> >> >> >>Why not just test the CRT in the set? There's not too many faults that won't be >>apparent. > > > The 7JP4 CRTs are getting quite difficult (expensive) to find in good condition. It > is wise to test the tube before going through the expense of rebuilding the set, and > then discovering the CRT is bad. > > jim menning > > That's a shame, can they be rebuilt, or are there any suitable subs? In my experience CRTs in general are quite forgiving to substitution though I have much less experience with the old electrostatic type. Article: 339960 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:54:44 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> In k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) writes: >In Explorer ... if I type in Dialcover.com and hit the go button it AIN"T >THERE... however if I type in WWW.Dialcover.com and hit the go button >the site comes up perfectly... >Don't ask me what the difference is... most websites.... Microshits IE >knows enough to put in the HTTP and the WWW ... but for some reason >on Bill's site... it can't find it without the WWW inserted by me.. You're right, John! The address I looked up for dialcover.com (216.111.184.2) is actually the main address of Oberlin.net's web server. It then feeds you a page based on the requested *name*. This is used to conserve addresses. Heh. So much for not bothering with web browsers. :) Regardless, Bill's site should accept www.dialcover.com OR dialcover.com. That's broken behavior, IMHO. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339961 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 17 Aug 2006 16:25:15 -0700 Message-ID: <1155857115.705928.22400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Tim Mullen wrote: > In "William Sommerwerck" writes: > > >> You will have a hard time discrediting the Japanese on electronics. > >> ALL of the high end USA stereo amps were made by them from > >> the 1970's onward. > > >Audio Research? Crown? Krell? conrad/johnson? etc, etc, etc > > Adcom, Levinson, Pass, Aragon, VTL, etc, etc, etc... > > Hell, walk into any stereo store that doesn't also sell toasters > and there's a wall full of USA-made amplifiers. Just it--I don't. Nearest one, other than Greif's Music (guitar amps) is The Stereo Shoppe in Boise...ptuiee. Greif's uses an old Hitachi AM/FM stereo/quad cassette phono changer console for store music. Article: 339962 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S120... Date: 17 Aug 2006 16:27:14 -0700 Message-ID: <1155857233.968997.103310@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: jfeng@my-deja.com wrote: > Larry wrote: > > Isn't one side of the S-120's chassis hooked to the power line? I used to > > get mild shocks off the ground screw on mine when I was "younger"...(c; > > > > If I were doing the restoration work, I would retrofit an isolation > transformer. Don't attach the ground with AC available...jumping jiminy! Article: 339963 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "wagil" Subject: aluminium tuning caps Date: 17 Aug 2006 16:31:45 -0700 Message-ID: <1155857505.361397.38750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Does anyone know the year that aluminium tuning caps were first mass marketed and used. I'm aware some tuning caps were made from brass, does anyone know of any being made from other metals? Any help/info appreciated Wayne g Article: 339964 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 23:46:47 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <44E4F9F1.E5B1284F@earthlink.net> In <44E4F9F1.E5B1284F@earthlink.net> "Michael A. Terrell" writes: > There could be a DNS problem at Gary's ISP. No, John was right. It's the way Bill's ISP handles HTTP requests. Every customer get's the same address, the web server sends different pages based on the reqested domain *name*. This is becoming more common in order to conserve IP addresses. The old way was to give every customer a seperate IP for their web site. If you do a whois on dialcover.com (you don't need the www for a whois), it tells me the authoritative nameserver: Domain Name: DIALCOVER.COM Domain servers in listed order: NS01.OBERLIN.NET 216.111.184.2 NS02.OBERLIN.NET 216.111.184.3 Connecting to the first nameserver: gothicdigital.com>31# nslookup Default Server: 167-79.nyc.dsl.access.net Address: 166.84.167.79 > server 216.111.184.2 Default Server: server01.oberlin.net Address: 216.111.184.2 If I ask for the address for dialcover.com: > dialcover.com Server: server01.oberlin.net Address: 216.111.184.2 Name: dialcover.com Address: 216.111.184.2 Or www.dialcover.com: > www.dialcover.com Server: server01.oberlin.net Address: 216.111.184.2 Name: www.dialcover.com Address: 216.111.184.2 I get the same answer, that of the primary web server (and nameserver)! Looks like all roads lead to Rome. :) There's nothing wrong with the way they're doing things, except for their web server not responding to dialcover.com the same way as www.dialcover.com. Although not strictly required, in this day and age I think it makes sense to treat them the same. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339965 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 23:51:07 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155813745.947802.66440@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155857115.705928.22400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> In <1155857115.705928.22400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> "Steven" writes: >Tim Mullen wrote: >> In "William Sommerwerck" writes: >> >> Hell, walk into any stereo store that doesn't also sell toasters >> and there's a wall full of USA-made amplifiers. >Just it--I don't. Nearest one, other than Greif's Music (guitar amps) >is The Stereo Shoppe in Boise...ptuiee. So? Go to Boise once every ten years. Not like there's any need to replace a decent modern amp more often than that, unless you have lots of bucks or like making life difficult for yourself. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 339966 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Signal Corps TG-34-A Keyer Tape Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 19:53:00 -0400 I have one of these tapes to give away, postage only. Ken wklw AT cox DOT coM Article: 339967 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING? Date: 17 Aug 2006 16:53:41 -0700 Message-ID: <1155858821.152448.200500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> Gary Tayman wrote: > "jim menning" wrote in message > news:xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > > > If you look at the posting tree, you'll see that Bill was responding to > > "JOHN D" who reported that he was having trouble accessing Bill's website. > > Apparently JOHN D is the first to report any problem opening the site to > > Bill. FWIW, the site opens fine for me. > > > > jim menning > > Okay, let's get this straight once and for all. Bill has sent me e-mails > several times, and has mentioned the website, www.dialcover.com, with each > one. I have tried many, many times, including today, and have never been > able to access it. When I've responded to Bill about it, he says I'm the > only one that's ever had a problem. > > Now John D is the only one that's having a problem. Apparently some of us > are getting it fine. So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we > can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? > What are you using for browser? Does anyone have suggestions as to why it > cannot be viewed by some computers? > > For me personally, I've used Earthlink in the past, now I'm using Verizon > (both DSL). I'm running Windows XP. I've tried Verizon's own browser, > along with Internet Explorer, Netscape, and Mozilla. Doesn't work with any > of 'em. Either you or your providers blacklisted something, but since you can e-mail him, it's not your email. Check you hosts files, etc. make sure your browser isn't set to no cookies or some ridiculous Puritan setting and report back. Article: 339968 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Martin Leese Subject: Re: Technics turntable tonearm lowering References: Message-ID: Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 23:55:10 GMT John Stone wrote: > On 8/17/06 3:51 PM, in article vF4Fg.9905$Nz6.4253@edtnps82, "Martin Leese" > wrote: ... >> From where can I obtain grease thick enough to >> work in the damper for the manual tonearm >> lowering mechanism? > > Check out this place: > > http://www.turntablebasics.com/silicone.html Holy barracudas, Batman, this place is a gold mine. Thanks John. -- Regards, Martin Leese E-mail: please@see.Web.for.e-mail.INVALID Web: http://members.tripod.com/martin_leese/ Article: 339969 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ? Date: 17 Aug 2006 17:03:34 -0700 Message-ID: <1155859414.734202.257220@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Tim Mullen wrote: > In <1155857115.705928.22400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> "Steven" writes: > > > >Tim Mullen wrote: > >> In "William Sommerwerck" writes: > >> > >> Hell, walk into any stereo store that doesn't also sell toasters > >> and there's a wall full of USA-made amplifiers. > > >Just it--I don't. Nearest one, other than Greif's Music (guitar amps) > >is The Stereo Shoppe in Boise...ptuiee. > > So? Go to Boise once every ten years. Not like there's any need > to replace a decent modern amp more often than that, unless you have > lots of bucks or like making life difficult for yourself. No need. I get amps I like swimming past the house after a rainstorm. Thrifts and the auction barn are your FRIEND, remember? I have 37 years of Pioneers floating around and an early sixties headphone splitter >from them and that AM/FM portable radio I gave a friend last Christmas to show for that. Utah, Pioneer and Altec speakers, not to mention the "reject" pair of Optimus towers I got for a quarter and run in the bedroom on the quad alarm clock with the Utahs. TWO reel to reel decks under 5 dollar and FREE. I'm not going into a list again...I simply don't need nearly all that stuff they sell when what I need is here already and slowly being fixed. Article: 339970 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Phil Nelson" References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 17:07:57 -0700 Message-ID: > the backside grille cloth is there for ventilation, or to make > the design symmetrical. Which is kind of odd, since the radio > would likely be positioned against a wall where you couldn't > see the back. I would guess both ventilation and symmetry. And many chairs are set out in the middle of a room, where you might see some or all of the back grille. Phil Nelson Article: 339971 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes Date: 17 Aug 2006 17:11:09 -0700 Message-ID: <1155859869.398633.22970@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: Peter Wieck wrote: > N Cook wrote: > > Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to > > the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it > > wobbling ? > > > > Gap-filler Super Glue ("ZAP" brand is best) is fast and easy for > onesies-twosies. If you have a bunch of them, get high-temp epoxy at an > automotive supply (JB Weld is a common US brand), mix up a batch and > have-at. > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA I tried to glue an antenna mount on a receiver (because it's a Philips and where do I get that style of AM antenna for 22AH794A04-- anyway) and it seems the electrical tape wrapping is stronger than JB Weld (yes, I repaired it while OFF the receiver with the cable intact and let it sit for a couple days, then tried again. I don't know what you repair with it normally, but I haven't a clue why they sell it. It seems to be as worthless as $1 superglue and 10x as expensive. ??? Article: 339972 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <115581