Article: 339526 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Calstan? Radio Date: 13 Aug 2006 01:37:12 -0700 Message-ID: <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> I don't really know much about old radios, but I'm learning! Article: 339527 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Calstan? Radio Date: 13 Aug 2006 02:05:24 -0700 Message-ID: <1155459924.899348.199570@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > I don't really know much about old radios, but I'm learning! And you now have the topmost resource on your continent...Buon gusto! Article: 339528 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Calstan? Radio Date: 13 Aug 2006 02:15:07 -0700 Message-ID: <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Steven wrote: > Dave.H wrote: > > I don't really know much about old radios, but I'm learning! > > And you now have the topmost resource on your continent...Buon gusto! And by that I am counting NSW, QLD, SA, VIC, territories and NZ too AND certainly anybody in Brissie that you can recall. Now do get to work! Article: 339529 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "CAINE" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:13:56 -0700 Message-ID: <1155471236.512589.214840@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Steven wrote: > duty-honor-country wrote: > > RadioGary wrote: > > > Desertguy, > > > > > > I'm sorry for the last commentary that may have inadvertentaly asked > > > you about your knowledge of the prime subject of this newsgroup, > > > antique radio collecting. You obviously know nothing. > > > > > > RadioGary wrote: > > > > Desertputz, > > > > > > > > I have this old Philco radio model 37-650 with an interesting very > > > > intermittent hum in the background. Are you familiar with this set and > > > > can you use your expertise in telling me where to check first? > > > > > > > > Or do you know anything about old radios, repair, and collecting? > > > > > > > > DeserTBoB wrote: > > > > > On 10 Aug 2006 08:36:01 -0700, "CAINE" wrote: > > > > > > > > > > >(laughter...) they do belong there ! > > > > > > > > > > ...and you belong in the nuthouse in Wilkes-Barre. > > > > > > > > > > Enjoy your open account...for awhile. I just got off the phone with > > > > > eBay. They're "reevaluating" their position. > > > > > > (laughter...) wow, talk about a 1-2 punch, DESERTBOB bites dust ! > > Shut the fucking door, bitch! We got air conditioning in here. Why are you and that other guy naked in there ? Article: 339530 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "CAINE" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:18:07 -0700 Message-ID: <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Weldon Nudlpudl wrote: > On 10-Aug-2006, DeserTBoB wrote: > > > Enjoy your open account...for awhile. I just got off the phone with > > eBay. They're "reevaluating" their position. > > Anybody who has struggled with eBay knows that they would rather eat their own young than reevaluate their position on anything. What DeserTBob conveniently leaves out is, his own TWO Ebay usernames were just suspended in recent months- one of them only a week or so ago. He alleged "fraud" claims amount to him returning an audio alignment tape for a full refund, and him keeping a VHS tape because it was a hard to find OOP movie at the time (since released on DVD)- but he was also offered a full refund on the VHS as well. The guy is INSANE. And he's obviously very bitter over his account suspensions. Article: 339531 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "CAINE" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:19:36 -0700 Message-ID: <1155471576.888648.209710@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Steven wrote: > Weldon Nudlpudl wrote: > > On 10-Aug-2006, DeserTBoB wrote: > > > > > Enjoy your open account...for awhile. I just got off the phone with > > > eBay. They're "reevaluating" their position. > > > > Anybody who has struggled with eBay knows that they would rather eat their own young than reevaluate their position on anything. > > Poster: > > Everything Google lists you posting to for at least a week, as much as > a month or so seems to be solely related to our loving couple, Charlie > and Bob, and you post mainly from one of the other groups where we have > our misery delivered from via Domino's Pizza and a 19 year old college > girl in a beat up Isuzu Rodeo. > > We can see that you at least know enough to use Babelfish to translate > German, if in fact it isn't native to you already. We can also see you > might actually comment on topics in our group that actually mattered > more than dB and Nudo. We can only hope you see fit to try that again. > > Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres. Weldon is Bicycle under another name. Article: 339532 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:20:08 -0700 Message-ID: <1155471608.033953.320580@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> I have recently acquired a Calstan transistor tabletop radio, and I took it apart (it's in pieces on the dining table now) noting all the connections and writing them down, but I have noticed the tops of what I think are the transistors. Is this normal. BTW the radio still plays beautifully even though the speaker is worn with a couple of holes, still decent sound, so I'm leaving the speaker in, the transistors, at least I think are the transistors are rectangular with a flat screw like tuneup thing on top. you see them in almost all radios even modern ones. If these aren't transistors what are they? The black wont rub off with my finger. I am new to antique radios collecting, so please excuse me if this answer is obvious. Thanks, dave Article: 339533 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "CAINE" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:20:22 -0700 Message-ID: <1155471622.864342.214440@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Steven wrote: > Beerbarrel wrote: > > On 12 Aug 2006 17:49:02 -0700, "Steven" wrote: > > > > > > >Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres. > > > > > > > > and so does Steven! > > I borrowed it from your closet though. lame...really lame comeback... you're slippin' Article: 339534 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" Subject: FART....radio! Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:24:17 GMT And after a couple of years the 'SHITOLA' appeared on eBay... that's the time for the 'FART', actually the brand name was F.A.R.T., from Italy. I'm not related with this item, even if i know him very well, nice person. See http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300015398462 -- Daniele http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339535 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "455 Pontiac on premium Sunoco-chariot of the gods" Subject: Re: FS: (51) tapes for sale-all new wave-college dorm lot-1980-90's era-PUNK-$$$$$$ Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:33:51 -0700 Message-ID: <1155472431.138769.300710@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155215779.830921.178500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> DeserTBoB wrote: > On 12 Aug 2006 08:12:10 -0700, "Dwight D. Eisenhower" (aka the deluded > Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA) spamming from > wrote: > > > http://tinypic > > DO NOT BUY FROM THIS OFF-TOPIC SPAMMER AND DIRTBAG SELLER! > > This spammer and eBay fraudster, Charlie Nudo of Drums, PA, aka > 66fourdoor on eBay, is yet another annoying eBay spammer, as well as > an eBay cheat and crook. He's obviously under pressure now due to my > efforts, as he's sending my ISP and othe net ops messages threatening > legal action if they don't shut me up...ain't gonna happen! Now, due > to fraud complaints on eBay, he's trying to "direct market" by > spamming the hell out of Usenet. Don't be beguiled by his "great > feedback," either...take a look at his attempts at extortion and his > "buried" bad feedback at: > > http://toolhaus.org/cgi-bin/negs?User=66fourdoor&Dirn=Received+by > > Also, take a look at his retaliatory bad feedback left for others at: > > http://toolhaus.org/cgi-bin/negs?User=66fourdoor&Dirn=Left+by > > This guy's a proven nut case and crook. He defrauded me twice under > two different eBay account names, one having been shut down since then > for fraud. > > Do Usenet a favor...turn this creep in for spam today at: > > groups-abuse@google.com (use email account he used in his spam) > abuse@epix.net (main account POP3 address thenudofamily@epix.net) > > ...and do NOT fall victim to his scam sales! What DeserTBob conveniently leaves out is, he is bitter over having (2) Ebay accounts of his own recently suspended- for auction harassment, driving bidders away from auctions, and posting private contact info. His "fraud" accusations amount to him returning (1) audio alignment tape for a full refund- while he kept another VHS tape because it was a rare OOP movie at the time. You make the call. Article: 339536 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "455 Pontiac on premium Sunoco-chariot of the gods" Subject: Re: FA: AKAI CR-83D 8 TRACK STEREO TAPE PLAYER RECORDER EXC condition Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:37:16 -0700 Message-ID: <1155472635.938910.128290@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Rowdy wrote: > Great classic deck, for more info: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110014426951 You did ok on that one. Article: 339537 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Whoever Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com> <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:40:52 GMT Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :þ Article: 339538 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:50:14 -0700 Message-ID: <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > I have recently acquired a Calstan transistor tabletop radio, and I > took it apart (it's in pieces on the dining table now) noting all the > connections and writing them down, but I have noticed the tops of what > I think are the transistors. Is this normal. BTW the radio still plays > beautifully even though the speaker is worn with a couple of holes, > still decent sound, so I'm leaving the speaker in, the transistors, at > least I think are the transistors are rectangular with a flat screw > like tuneup thing on top. you see them in almost all radios even > modern ones. If these aren't transistors what are they? The black > wont rub off with my finger. I am new to antique radios collecting, so > please excuse me if this answer is obvious. > Thanks, dave Those are variable capacitors of the type used in IF sections. If it tunes fine there's no reason to even touch them, and if you do you may have to learn to realign the set anyway. Holes ain't the killaz, and if they really bug you enough just use toilet paper and school glue to patch, from behind if you can. Sounds like you've got a nice set so det the dust gone with canned air and careful cleaning with plain H2O and a clean rag or ear swabs if needed. Make sure no debris is left behind and remember solvents (including some electronics cleaners are EVIL to some plastics so test a spot on some place or some thing you can afford to goof on. Older sets, even transistorized one can be finicky so have all the components checked to assure they remain withing working specifications... Then show it off and PLAY that BOOGER. I think it'll be a keeper. Bonsa! Article: 339539 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "CAINE" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:51:41 -0700 Message-ID: <1155473501.849181.35770@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Whoever wrote: > Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two > are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with > each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding > in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :=FE In reality, it's because DeserTBob can't stand someone making a few bucks on Ebay selling their old stuff- while he lacks the social and people skills to sell anything. He can only buy. Otherwise, he is so despised, no one wants anything to do with him- including his own family. The guy obviously didn't get enough love as a kid growing up- and still doesn't. And it must suck to drive around in his 1979 Honda. Can you imagine how embarassing that is ? Article: 339540 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:01:28 -0700 Message-ID: <1155474088.221218.117600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> It works fine, I haven't disaligned those things, I only tried to rub the black stuff off. I was using furniture polish to clean inside and out. I guess thats no good. Sounds nice but the volume crackles a bit, and the holes in the speaker cone don't worry me. If it ain't broke why fix it, as the speaker sounds excellent (although I wonder if the crackling is really the speaker) I think I have some old car speakers buried in the shed, I'll try to find them to find out. Not sure if I kept them when I cleaned my shed out. The cabinet came up good with just Mr. Sheen furniture polish with almond oil. Article: 339541 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:03:38 -0700 Message-ID: <1155474218.387717.94580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Oh yeah I forgot, I'll try to take some photos of the speaker and chassis and cabinet tomorrow, we're having a house inspection, but I'll try to squeeze it in. Article: 339542 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:04:10 -0700 Message-ID: <1155474250.836620.242360@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> 1979 Hondas were a particularly robust group of models, if not some of the most renowned and ground-breaking in Honda's history. Subaru also had a great lineup, including an attractive and versatile GL-10 and and a (then) recently introduced phenomenon called BRAT, a mini-pickup similar to El Camino in concept, with 2 seats in the bed that got around the US tariff on Japanese pickups. Most people removed the seats and used the bed with or without a shell, readily available even on the aftermarket. As for Honda, Accords and Civics came in 3 door hatchback, plus the Accord had recently introduced a 4 door sedan to the lineup. The monumental Civic CRX was less than 2 years from it's American introduction, and Honda's star was just about hung over the moon for good. Not much you can ridicule there, Caine. Article: 339543 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:14:17 -0700 Message-ID: <1155474857.707083.253290@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> but I have noticed the tops of what > I think are the transistors. Should be '' I have noticed the tops of what I think are the transisitors are blackened, as if been in a fire. '' Steven has already confirmed what these are. I had it wrong, but what do I know? Next to nothing, but I'm slowly learning! Article: 339544 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:22:37 -0700 Message-ID: <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > It works fine, I haven't disaligned those things, I only tried to rub > the black stuff off. I was using furniture polish to clean inside and > out. I guess thats no good. Sounds nice but the volume crackles a > bit, and the holes in the speaker cone don't worry me. If it ain't > broke why fix it, as the speaker sounds excellent (although I wonder if > the crackling is really the speaker) I think I have some old car > speakers buried in the shed, I'll try to find them to find out. Not > sure if I kept them when I cleaned my shed out. The cabinet came up > good with just Mr. Sheen furniture polish with almond oil. Dave, the crackling isn't the speaker, it's the volume switch. If it's a regular pot, spraying may/may not help it but it must get into the switch (it WILL evaporate over a day or two. DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS POWER IS REMOVED (UNPLUG IT)! Work the switch all the way back and forth numerous times to lube and clean the pot well and do not operate it for most of a day. Work it from time to time to help it self-clean. If you have the rotary point-contact type ALA a pocket set that has a volume wheel, it could be harder and I don't think advisable. Determine which control crackles (especially if it has tone or balance controls) and repeat for all noisy controls. PLEASE NOTE: Cleaning may not be a cure and the noises may return after the controls start to dry out and/or the controls are once again a mess. Eventually you may find yourself replacing the pots anyway. Whomever passes for Dick Smith there will know what kind of sprays are best for the job and safer to use on your plastics. If you aren't having the sound break up all the time or for the briefest time while adjusting the knob, you may always just take it for granted and let it be until it becomes like Alice Cooper's python to you and squeezes the fun out of listening. Some of that fabulous Australian pop music awaits you, so go get it! Article: 339545 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: bicyclingg@yahoo.com Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:41:09 -0700 Message-ID: <1155476469.170261.109640@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> CAINE wrote: > Steven wrote: > > Weldon Nudlpudl wrote: > > > On 10-Aug-2006, DeserTBoB wrote: > > > > > > > Enjoy your open account...for awhile. I just got off the phone with > > > > eBay. They're "reevaluating" their position. > > > > > > Anybody who has struggled with eBay knows that they would rather eat their own young than reevaluate their position on anything. > > > > Poster: > > > > Everything Google lists you posting to for at least a week, as much as > > a month or so seems to be solely related to our loving couple, Charlie > > and Bob, and you post mainly from one of the other groups where we have > > our misery delivered from via Domino's Pizza and a 19 year old college > > girl in a beat up Isuzu Rodeo. > > > > We can see that you at least know enough to use Babelfish to translate > > German, if in fact it isn't native to you already. We can also see you > > might actually comment on topics in our group that actually mattered > > more than dB and Nudo. We can only hope you see fit to try that again. > > > > Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres. > > Weldon is Bicycle under another name. Learn to read a header, it's not that hard. Pretty basic stuff even for an E-tard such as yourself. Article: 339546 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: Soldering techniques References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:53:42 -0400 If I think I will create more of a problem trying to remove the component when there are to many wires going to the lug I just snip the capacitor off leaving a pigtail a and solder it to the pigtail. Not the greatest way but it works for me. What I have also done is get a pin, or a small allen key, wrap 22/24 guage wire around it like making a spring but with the coils tightly wrapped. Then I slid the wire of the new component and the pigtail I left and solder that. It ain't gonna get loose! If anyone is not sure what I mean I can take a few photos and post it on the binaries. Sal Brisindi Article: 339547 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 08:27:53 -0600 Message-ID: <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint.. John k9uwa That was someones oppinion . Atwater Kent proves different . I prefer a hole to at least push the wire through though for joints with several wires . Article: 339548 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "William Sommerwerck" References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 07:40:03 -0700 Message-ID: > Good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint... I would disagree here. A good solder joint starts with clean leads and clean terminals. We've gone through this before, but I'll repeat it... Many years ago J. Gordon Holt, founder of "The Stereophile", argued for simply slipping the leads into the lugs without bending them around. His argument was that this not only save assembly time and effort, but made it easier to replace components. Broadly speaking, I agree. But this method requires cleanliness and close attention to the quality of the joint. Article: 339549 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Beerbarrel Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Message-ID: References: <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com> <1155430142.410104.297780@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <6i7td29fhv91t6vu7dkqje5l7pnuk7ue8n@4ax.com> <1155442326.108859.99120@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155442586.416349.119140@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 10:50:01 -0400 On 12 Aug 2006 21:16:26 -0700, "Steven" wrote: > >Steven wrote: >> Beerbarrel wrote: >> > On 12 Aug 2006 17:49:02 -0700, "Steven" wrote: >> > >> > >> > >Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres. >> > >> > >> > >> > and so does Steven! >> >> I borrowed it from your closet though. > >It's tight because you're slightly bigger. It's tight because you are immensely bigger. I hear your nick is Heafty Half after the old Chevy truck. __________________________________________________________ Have you heard about the new arcade game? It's called 'Whack-a-nuck"! Article: 339550 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 15:57:29 GMT "William Sommerwerck" wrote in message news:fM2dnSiKzZpdpELZnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@comcast.com... >> Good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint... > > I would disagree here. A good solder joint starts with clean leads and > clean > terminals. > If I may chime in once again, you're both right, but I think we're also using a few buzzwords that were once written in some "how to fix a radio or TV" classroom book. Away back many years ago, when I was in class, the teacher gave us each several pieces of copper wire -- I think it was stripped #14 Romex. Our assignment was to make a cube by soldering the ends of these wires together. We could cut, we could file, and we could solder. What he wanted was as perfect a cube as we could make, with just enough solder to make a rounded corner -- no concave, no excess. Of course it was a little tricky to begin with, as it seems we needed 3 hands to hold everything -- and pliers or forceps so we don't burn our fingers in the process. But as I recall it didn't really take all that long. I took extra care, as I thought it would make a neat desk ornament when I brought it home. But it wasn't to be. The teacher looked at mine, gave me 100%, told the class that it was the most perfect cube he has ever seen, and kept it! Darn it . . . Actually you will indeed read that a good solder connection begins with a good mechanical connection. However by "mechanical" it doesn't have to be so strong that you can hang your car from an overhead beam with it. What this means is that you should have a fairly good metal-to-metal contact, so that you're not depending on the solder itself to complete the circuit. By mechanical connection, it is generally meant that the electricity should flow through the joint even if there is no solder. This means metal touching metal, with no dirt or corrosion causing resistance and/or preventing the solder from making a good molecular bond with the metal components. In the case of Atwater-Kent, there is really nothing wrong with a metal wire sitting on a flat tab, except that it can certainly be tricky if you're trying to solder several wires to the same lug. I also have to scratch my head when it comes to those resistors whose ends are made purely of solder -- they melt when you apply the iron, and it certainly depends on a LOT of solder to complete the circuit. Obviously a dumb idea which didn't take long to become obsolete . . . -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 339551 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: DeserTBoB Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:07:24 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com> <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:40:52 GMT, Whoever wrote: >Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two >are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with >each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding >in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :þ That's IT! Cholly Noodlez is a closeted homosexual who keeps frauding and lying to attract my attention! Quick...someone chemically castrate that whack job! Article: 339552 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: schmillivolt@yahoo.com Subject: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: 13 Aug 2006 10:00:40 -0700 Message-ID: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED. Any ideas? Article: 339553 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned From: "Weldon Nudlpudl" References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155476469.170261.109640@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 17:24:30 GMT On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:41:09 GMT, bicyclingg@yahoo.com wrote: >> Weldon is Bicycle under another name. > > Learn to read a header, it's not that hard. Pretty basic stuff even for > an E-tard such as yourself. Eh. That wouldn't really disprove his theory. You could use some combination of multiple ISPs, telnet, and long-distance phone calls to pretend to be me. But, if you *are* pretending to be me, then I'd like to know who the **ck you are! Knock it off! Meanwhile, somebody tell Steven that Dutch and German parted ways long ago. Article: 339554 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: ken scharf Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <%rJDg.4388$q96.2677@bignews4.bellsouth.net> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:42:01 -0400 schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote: > I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many > "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon > bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED. > > Any ideas? > Led's are mostly monochromatic (single frequency). You can try getting a tri-color (three chip led) with red, blue, and green elements and by adjusting the power to each chip (these leds have 4 or 5 leads to light each chip independently) you could get the exact color you want. Article: 339555 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: bicyclingg@yahoo.com Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 11:00:02 -0700 Message-ID: <1155492002.942167.151060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Weldon Nudlpudl wrote: > On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:41:09 GMT, bicyclingg@yahoo.com wrote: > > >> Weldon is Bicycle under another name. > > > > Learn to read a header, it's not that hard. Pretty basic stuff even for > > an E-tard such as yourself. > > Eh. That wouldn't really disprove his theory. You could use some combination of multiple ISPs, telnet, and long-distance phone calls to pretend to be me. Who the hell would go through all that? His "theories" are disproven daily. Like the theory that I was posting through Penn State servers that I "hacked" into. He even went as far as calling them to report it, made a complete ass out of himself. I encourage him to keep making stupid and false reports, only confirms what a whack job he is. Article: 339556 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: James Sweet Subject: Re: Atwater Kent red paint- where to get References: <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:02:21 GMT Tom Adkins wrote: > Pete_O wrote: > >> Does anyone know where I can get red paint that matches that used on the >> metal cased AK's? Someone mentioned it a long time ago but I didn't need >> it then. Spray can or regular- it doesn't matter. -Pete >> > I don't know if there is any one who sells it as such, but your local > Automotive paint supplier should be able to match it if it's not a > wrinkle finish. Wrinkle finish is trickier, though it can be done. You can buy wrinkle finish spray paint, perhaps it would work to spray a base coat of that and then use a top coat of color matched paint over it. Article: 339557 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com> <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155473501.849181.35770@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155474250.836620.242360@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Message-ID: Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:02:52 GMT Bleccchhh!!!!!! I'll keep my 64 Thunderbird, thank you. Why I'm reading this thread in the first place . . . . . . . . . . . . Why I'm contributing . . . . . . . . just having a bad day. Sorry. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Steven" wrote in message news:1155474250.836620.242360@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > 1979 Hondas were a particularly robust group of models, if not some of > the most renowned and ground-breaking in Honda's history. Subaru also > had a great lineup, including an attractive and versatile GL-10 and and > a (then) recently introduced phenomenon called BRAT, a mini-pickup > similar to El Camino in concept, with 2 seats in the bed that got > around the US tariff on Japanese pickups. Most people removed the seats > and used the bed with or without a shell, readily available even on the > aftermarket. > > As for Honda, Accords and Civics came in 3 door hatchback, plus the > Accord had recently introduced a 4 door sedan to the lineup. The > monumental Civic CRX was less than 2 years from it's American > introduction, and Honda's star was just about hung over the moon for > good. > > Not much you can ridicule there, Caine. > Article: 339558 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 10:54:55 -0700 Message-ID: <21468-44DF676F-1@storefull-3176.bay.webtv.net> References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Use a white LED and an amber filter material of some kind. At the moment, i'm shining a white LED thru a piece of orange colored tranparent plastic. Looks like it'd be a pretty close approximation of a NE-2 glow if the brightness were cut down with more series resistance. oc Article: 339559 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> Subject: Re: Atwater Kent red paint- where to get Message-ID: <22KDg.45841$u05.28854@trnddc01> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:18:38 GMT In the world of classic automobiles, that's EXACTLY how it's done. Fortunately for me, the only radios I've wrinkle painted are car radios, and done in black -- the one color that is readily available in just about any auto store. Even so, if you've got an AK radio (or similar) with colored wrinkle paint, it can't hurt to check with an automotive paint store to see if they can whip up the exact thing you need. I've dealt with a paint store in Bradenton who has been simply wonderful. If I want acrylic enamel to match the exterior color, they mix it for me -- in as little as one spray bomb, or one vial of touch-up. If I ask for paint for the steering column, they mix it as well. Dash paint, vinyl dyes, everything I've asked for they make on the spot, and every time the paint has just the right amount of gloss, and goes on well. Of course in the past I've also dealt with paint stores that are less helpful, or want a minimum of 10 bottles . . . If you're lucky enough to find a store that will work with you, take a good sample of the original with you. They can match it, and get you exactly the paint that will work. Now -- I'll confess I've never asked these guys for wrinkle paint, and I don't know what's in the stuff, so maybe they can't make it as easily for some reason. If this is the case, do the above and paint your finishing color over black. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "James Sweet" wrote in message news:NOJDg.23405$zc2.15893@trnddc06... > Tom Adkins wrote: >> Pete_O wrote: >> >>> Does anyone know where I can get red paint that matches that used on the >>> metal cased AK's? Someone mentioned it a long time ago but I didn't >>> need >>> it then. Spray can or regular- it doesn't matter. -Pete >>> >> I don't know if there is any one who sells it as such, but your local >> Automotive paint supplier should be able to match it if it's not a >> wrinkle finish. Wrinkle finish is trickier, though it can be done. > > > You can buy wrinkle finish spray paint, perhaps it would work to spray a > base coat of that and then use a top coat of color matched paint over it. Article: 339560 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> Subject: Re: Atwater Kent red paint- where to get Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 14:33:26 -0400 Message-ID: I'm not an AK expert, but AFAIK, AK did not use wrinkle for any red or green lids on the metal box 47, 55 and 60 radios. Wrinkle is only used on the brown and gold metal boxes, and I think on the black box smaller sets like the model 30 and such. Mark Oppat "James Sweet" wrote in message news:NOJDg.23405$zc2.15893@trnddc06... > Tom Adkins wrote: > > Pete_O wrote: > > > >> Does anyone know where I can get red paint that matches that used on the > >> metal cased AK's? Someone mentioned it a long time ago but I didn't need > >> it then. Spray can or regular- it doesn't matter. -Pete > >> > > I don't know if there is any one who sells it as such, but your local > > Automotive paint supplier should be able to match it if it's not a > > wrinkle finish. Wrinkle finish is trickier, though it can be done. > > > You can buy wrinkle finish spray paint, perhaps it would work to spray a > base coat of that and then use a top coat of color matched paint over it. > Article: 339561 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: lewallie@aol.com Subject: Re: KUTZTOWN SEPT 22-23 who's going? Date: 13 Aug 2006 12:06:55 -0700 Message-ID: <1155496015.019058.40980@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: Mark Oppat wrote: > is it too early to ask? > > I plan on being there with a full load of capacitors, repro dials, knobs, > decals and other vital parts. > > They are expanding into the second pavilion now... its growing and its > right in the heart of antique radio country. > > Mark Oppat Article: 339562 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: lewallie@aol.com Subject: Re: KUTZTOWN SEPT 22-23 who's going? Date: 13 Aug 2006 12:12:24 -0700 Message-ID: <1155496344.524243.171060@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: lewal...@aol.com wrote: > There will be steak dinner friday night. Article: 339563 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Registered User Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 14:55:23 -0400 Message-ID: References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 15:57:29 GMT, "Gary Tayman" wrote: > I also have to scratch my >head when it comes to those resistors whose ends are made purely of >solder -- they melt when you apply the iron, and it certainly depends on a >LOT of solder to complete the circuit. Obviously a dumb idea which didn't >take long to become obsolete . . . It sounds as if you are talking about grid-leak resistors that were never intended to be soldered into a circuit. regards Fritz Article: 339564 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jwb0721@gmail.com Subject: NordMende Carmen 55 Date: 13 Aug 2006 12:27:38 -0700 Message-ID: <1155497258.375171.21460@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Does anyone know where I can get a value estimate on a NordeMende Carmen55 German Radio (it works by the way and has a wonderful full sound). I received this as a gift from a former German Nazi Officer I lived next to in Germany in early 1980. This radio had been in his family for a long time and passed to him on his parents death in the 1930's. Article: 339565 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44DF7DA3.C8B85B80@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275 References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:29:51 GMT :*p wrote: > > Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are > screwing them and not the other way. > > % The same goes for you, Skippy. So you've learned to set a fictitious follow-up? Plonk. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 339566 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44DF810F.7E009EDD@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Applications where tubes are still king?? References: <1154980972.462384.103210@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <0jRBg.9349$bo6.5139@bignews7.bellsouth.net> <44DAABF6.8A2A29A5@earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:44:30 GMT James Sweet wrote: > > > > > > > The operating costs for the tube version more than offsets the > > difference in purchase price, and the smaller number of tube > > transmitters has narrowed the gap considerably. You use less > > electricity for a solid state transmitter, that means less is used for > > air conditioning. The transmitter is smaller, and requires less > > maintenance over its life. That maintenance can be done by less skilled > > staff, and it is rare that the transmitter would go down completely, > > reducing the number of make goods on advertising. You can continue to > > run the transmitter with a single bad output module while it is repair > > locally, or at the factory. If you need a backup generator and switch > > gear it will be cheaper, as well. Thales and Harris are the only two > > manufacturers I'm still familiar with. Thales bought Comark, which made > > the last big transmitter I worked on. All solid state, except the > > Klystrons, and it was delivered a week before the Klystrodes hit the > > market. It uses three 65 KW Klystrons, two Visual, and one Aural. It > > cost over $45,000 to rebuild one of the Klystrons in 1990. > > > > That may well be true, but it doesn't change the fact that many people > still shop strictly by price. Have you ever worked in the broadcast industry? Budgets are usually a five to ten year projection. The electric bill is the biggest bill every month, and anything that will reduce that is a major concern. I haven't seen a new tube transmitter built after 1985 at any station in the area. NEC treid to set one up for Channel 68 in Orlando in 1987, but they never did get it to work properly, so it was donated to a college TV station in exchange for their Ch 18 allocation. Then they bought a new US built transmitter, but I was no longer working at the WCX tower site in Orange City, Florida so i don't know what it used.. I've seen several new AM and FM transmitters installed, and all were solid state. > Look at how many people still use 25 cent > incandescent lightbulbs despite the fact that a $3 compact fluorescent > will more than pay for itself in electricity savings, or who will buy a > $99 Wal-Mart special TV instead of paying $150 to get their older high > end Sony repaired. That is not a valid analogy. THE TRANSMITTER IS THEIR SOLE SOURCE OF INCOME. NO RF = NO PAYCHECKS. Its very true that Broadcasters ARE cheap bastards, but the stupid ones don't survive for long. Its cheaper to buy a bunch of identical solid state transmitters and a set of spare modules, then fire all but one engineer for the area. The pay back can be under two years. In some cases, its under a year. Then they pay the factory to do what the engineer can't, and it usually includes all ECOs and upgrades for a flate repair rate. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 339567 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44DF83C4.49FF1234@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: (De)soldering techniques References: <1155300902.787861.183610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <7063-44DC8A61-25@storefull-3174.bay.webtv.net> <1155305783.869268.287580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:56:01 GMT James Sweet wrote: > > It works a lot better on some things than others but the trick is to dip > it in liquid flux before using. The flux that comes on it dries out over > time and it doesn't work very well. It doesn't "Dry out". It is lost due to handling. It breaks away as a fine dust. the more you handle it, the quicker there isn't enough flux left to do the job. Adding some fresh solder to the > joint before desoldering, while counterintuitive, works well. Its NOT counterintuitive. The fresh solder lifts of the oxidized surface of the old solder which makes it easier to wick solder off the joint. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 339568 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <44DF8881.3DE078F7@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com> <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 20:16:13 GMT DeserTBoB wrote: > > On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:40:52 GMT, Whoever > wrote: > > >Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two > >are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with > >each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding > >in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :þ > > That's IT! Cholly Noodlez is a closeted homosexual who keeps frauding > and lying to attract my attention! > > Quick...someone chemically castrate that whack job! Dump some battery acid in his lap. That should do the job. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 339569 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:22:28 -0700 Message-ID: <1155507748.523811.273740@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> SOMEBODY found my new Lycos bit bucket today! It wasn't a Mirthlink customer and it wasn't someone with sand in their britches (he's not dumb enough to write no more). If I wish I might see him next to something about jVxiAnjsGryyya or lovely softcore Japanese dating porn (if you can't read it where DOOO you click?) (answer: You just stare at those goo-goo-Google-y eyes) Until the top falls of my lap, keep the spam coming! Article: 339570 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:25:55 -0700 Message-ID: <1155507954.884606.60260@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> These blackened things are 1 cm square so I think they are the IF transformers. I haven't gotten around to taking photos, but I will do it today. The set is still in pieces on a workbench waiting for me to have a closer look at it. I've never really worked on a radio before, so this will teach me. My next project I hope is to actually work on a valve (tube) set! THAT will be fun. And, Steven all the 4 knobs (1 is missing, another is loose which isn't shown in the existing photo's on Flickr, I'll fix that one up when putting the radio back together) are not the type you find in portables. They are the ones you will usually find on most tabletop sets. Article: 339571 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: FART....radio! Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:26:46 -0700 Message-ID: <1155508006.302175.161840@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: robert casey wrote: > Daniele wrote: > > > And after a couple of years the 'SHITOLA' > > appeared on eBay... that's the time for the 'FART', > > actually the brand name was F.A.R.T., from Italy. > > If Howard Stern were still on regular radio stations, I'd use this FART > set to listen to his show.... ;-) Realign it! Don't you know gas expands and moves to fill all space? Article: 339572 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:28:30 -0700 Message-ID: <1155508110.850755.76410@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Oh, I forgot the volume doesn't crackle unless I actually turn the volume control, so as I have no idea where to use lubricant or what type to use, I'll leave that for now. Doesn't really bother me much. Article: 339573 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:31:02 -0700 Message-ID: <1155508262.173012.326610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > These blackened things are 1 cm square so I think they are the IF > transformers. I haven't gotten around to taking photos, but I will do > it today. The set is still in pieces on a workbench waiting for me to > have a closer look at it. I've never really worked on a radio before, > so this will teach me. My next project I hope is to actually work on a > valve (tube) set! THAT will be fun. And, Steven all the 4 knobs (1 is > missing, another is loose which isn't shown in the existing photo's on > Flickr, I'll fix that one up when putting the radio back together) are > not the type you find in portables. They are the ones you will usually > find on most tabletop sets. Good on you, mate! Many of those sets you've got there are something else. If you go to the races, bet on My Envy for whatever you find! Article: 339574 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275 Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:34:38 -0700 Message-ID: <1155508477.937737.207500@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Michael A. Terrell wrote: > :*p wrote: > > > > Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are > > screwing them and not the other way. > > > > % > > > The same goes for you, Skippy. So you've learned to set a fictitious > follow-up? Plonk. > > > -- > Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to > prove it. > Member of DAV #85. > > Michael A. Terrell > Central Florida I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell I will not try to fool Mike Terrell the chalk is too small! Article: 339575 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275 Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:51:33 -0700 Message-ID: <1155509493.165219.116070@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Steven wrote: > Michael A. Terrell wrote: > > :*p wrote: > > > > > > Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are > > > screwing them and not the other way. > > > > > > % > > > > > > The same goes for you, Skippy. So you've learned to set a fictitious > > follow-up? Plonk. Plonk lower. man... Now walk on my back. PS Kooks just keep getting harder to blind... I'd like to thank Google for teaching me the 'pick and roll', and of course tha Man for making Michael Terrell everything he isn't. And may I leave the statue and take the supermodel home? Article: 339576 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275 Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:54:25 -0700 Message-ID: <1155509665.796140.132240@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Steven wrote: > Michael A. Terrell wrote: > > :*p wrote: > > > > > > Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are > > > screwing them and not the other way. > > > > > > % > > > > > > The same goes for you, Skippy. So you've learned to set a fictitious > > follow-up? Plonk. What exactly is the purpose of a peanut butter fetish anyway? No wonder radio guys tend to be lonely, they must creep out chicks. Article: 339577 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:57:20 -0700 Message-ID: <1155509840.420307.148950@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> robert casey wrote: > schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote: > > > I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many > > "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon > > bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED. > > > > Use a red and green 3 legged LED. The neon orange color could be > simulated by a mix of the red and the green light. Something like the > red being twice as bright as the green should look close to the neon > orange color. This trick is used in color CRT displays and TV sets. > > That's what ya get if the blue gun is weak or dead! Been there, it's Halloweenish I know! Article: 339578 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: KUTZTOWN SEPT 22-23 who's going? Date: 13 Aug 2006 16:01:11 -0700 Message-ID: <1155510071.361571.43970@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: lewallie@aol.com wrote: > lewal...@aol.com wrote: > > There will be steak dinner friday night. How in the WORLD? ?OH? OH! Was it the > that tricked Google? Neat trick I may try someday. I'll bet you were trying to hide the steak dinner so you could take home leftovers ;-) Nice try Article: 339579 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HobbyBox" Subject: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 13 Aug 2006 16:04:51 -0700 Message-ID: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Hey Everyone, After struggling with this for a little bit of time now, I figured I need to turn to the pros. I have one and a half Majestic Super-Dynamic G-2 speakers, and I trying get one working for a Majestic console that I am slowly working on restoring. The problem is, the field coils for both of the ones I have are dead. There is no continuity between the leads of the field coil, and, upon further investigation, the break is not in the leads, but appears to be somewhere in the coil itself (within the paper). Without completely tearing these coils apart, and pulling wire until I find the break, is there any helpful hints for fixing this? Is it common for these to open up like this internally? Is there a place that sells replacements? Essentially, what can I do without having to pay someone to re-string the entire coil? What would that cost? Sorry for all the questions. I am new to this art of radio restoration, so any help would be great! One last question, I promise. I have the speaker cone, and it is in good shape, but I want to preserve it. I have heard about gluing and other techniques. Is that a good technique to preserve the paper? Thank for everything! -Nate Article: 339580 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Carl WA1KPD" Subject: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:58:16 -0400 Message-ID: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> -OK I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day inside working on a radio. Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have done and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts. I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF output. The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I cannot get rid of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as soon as I put any 45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in my other AK 55 so that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ go way up on my scope once the tubes are plugged in The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT. They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT. However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids and output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a design? All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with the field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too. How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? Any body have any thoughts on this? -- Carl WA1KPD Visit My Boatanchor Collection at http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html Article: 339581 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 09:04:33 +0900 Message-ID: References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> -- Say no to institutionalized interference. Just say NO to HD/IBOC! "Carl WA1KPD" wrote in message news:9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com... > -OK > > I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day > inside working on a radio. > > > > Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have > done and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts. > > > > I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF > output. The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I > cannot get rid of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as > soon as I put any 45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in > my other AK 55 so that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ > go way up on my scope once the tubes are plugged in > > > > The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for > neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT. > They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT. > However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids > and output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a > design? > > > > All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with > the field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too. > > > > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? > > > > Any body have any thoughts on this? > > > Have you checked the center tapping resistor across the filaments for an open? Perhaps the 80 is weak/asymmetrical? Article: 339582 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Black Dial and bluebird UPDATE Date: 13 Aug 2006 17:23:34 -0700 Message-ID: <1155515014.422878.251510@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1153952283.300964.3230@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> After a few days wondering when it would come (seller had job obligations I guess) I got my final invoice for $50 including insurance, in two boxes... It's all good and now I'm off to go pay for it and send it. Now I have to keep up a dialogue with the guy who has the signal generator and keep searching for my scope. I hope my grandmother is pleased to see it when I finish. It's gonna be a humdinger! Article: 339583 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 00:46:11 GMT This is just a shot in the dark, without looking at any schematics, but did you check to see if there may be an internal short in the transformer? Maybe primary shorted to secondary, or shorted to the chassis? -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Carl WA1KPD" wrote in message news:9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com... > -OK > > I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day > inside working on a radio. > > > > Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have > done and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts. > > > > I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF > output. The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I > cannot get rid of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as > soon as I put any 45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in > my other AK 55 so that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ > go way up on my scope once the tubes are plugged in > > > > The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for > neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT. > They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT. > However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids > and output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a > design? > > > > All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with > the field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too. > > > > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? > > > > Any body have any thoughts on this? > > > > > > > -- > Carl > WA1KPD > Visit My Boatanchor Collection at > http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html > > > Article: 339584 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: 13 Aug 2006 17:47:09 -0700 Message-ID: <1155516429.686332.4500@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> Sounds to me like the bias on the 45s is way too low. IIRC, the filaments should be about 45V more positive than the grids, so I suspect that in recapping you may have shorted out the biasing resistance in series with the centre tap of the B+ winding, or returned one or more filter caps to the wrong point. With low bias, the 45s will draw far too much current, which will depress the B+, increase the ripple and put hummmm out to the speaker as well as put ripply current through the field coil. I am assuming you have checked the continuity of the primary and secondary of the p-p driver transformer. Neil S. Carl WA1KPD wrote: > -OK > > I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day inside > working on a radio. > > > > Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have done > and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts. > > > > I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF output. > The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I cannot get rid > of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as soon as I put any > 45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in my other AK 55 so > that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ go way up on my > scope once the tubes are plugged in > > > > The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for > neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT. > They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT. > However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids and > output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a design? > > > > All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with the > field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too. > > > > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? > > > > Any body have any thoughts on this? > > > > > > > -- > Carl > WA1KPD > Visit My Boatanchor Collection at > http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html Article: 339585 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: djep1@juno.com Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: 13 Aug 2006 17:51:56 -0700 Message-ID: <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? > > > > Any body have any thoughts on this? > > -- > Carl > WA1KPD > Visit My Boatanchor Collection at > http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html Have you looked at the bias on the grids of the 45's? s/b about -45V as I recall (A bit less than half of the voltage across the field coil). There is a resistive divider and a bypass cap involved. Also, the - of the filters doesn't run to the chassis ground, correct? Jeff Article: 339586 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Message-ID: <_QPDg.740$Ji1.343@trnddc05> Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 00:54:18 GMT "Registered User" wrote in message news:s5tud29ki2qmlrppk4tlsuaulfilsb95jg@4ax.com... > On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 15:57:29 GMT, "Gary Tayman" > wrote: > > It sounds as if you are talking about grid-leak resistors that were > never intended to be soldered into a circuit. > > regards > Fritz I'm referring to those big ceramic carbon resistors with a single paint splotch for a color code. They have metal tips, and you'll find out the hard way that the tips are actually made of solder, when you try to desolder one end from the lug to check resistance. Anyone who has worked on an Atwater Kent knows what I'm talking about. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 339587 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:05:23 -0700 Message-ID: <1155517523.269080.301470@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Well, Nate, you have really answered your own question. If the field is open circuit, then the only solution is to carfully check such winding wire as you can access for a break [the break is usually on the inside end] and then you measure the wire size with a micrometer, buy the necessary weight of the correct size magnet wire, and rewind the coil [not as simple as it sounds]. Since I happen to have a winding machine, I always 'de-wind' the coil to get a turns count and to recover all the 'form' parts [the core tube and end insulators'. I then make a winding block of heavy wood to support the core tube and the end insulators against the pressure from the tension of winding some 1000-2000 turns on the coil. Once wound it gets a coat of Glyptal insulating varnish to lock it in shape then the wrapper and leads are attached and finally the winding block is carefully removed and the coil installed back into the speaker frame. Cone coatings was discussed only a week or two ago in this group. Neil S. HobbyBox wrote: > Hey Everyone, > > After struggling with this for a little bit of time now, I figured I > need to turn to the pros. I have one and a half Majestic Super-Dynamic > G-2 speakers, and I trying get one working for a Majestic console that > I am slowly working on restoring. The problem is, the field coils for > both of the ones I have are dead. There is no continuity between the > leads of the field coil, and, upon further investigation, the break is > not in the leads, but appears to be somewhere in the coil itself > (within the paper). > > Without completely tearing these coils apart, and pulling wire until I > find the break, is there any helpful hints for fixing this? Is it > common for these to open up like this internally? Is there a place > that sells replacements? Essentially, what can I do without having to > pay someone to re-string the entire coil? What would that cost? > > Sorry for all the questions. I am new to this art of radio > restoration, so any help would be great! > > One last question, I promise. I have the speaker cone, and it is in > good shape, but I want to preserve it. I have heard about gluing and > other techniques. Is that a good technique to preserve the paper? > > Thank for everything! > -Nate Article: 339588 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Carter Cook" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:13:23 -0700 Message-ID: <1155518003.237855.215440@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Hello Nate: Some field coils can be relatively easily removed from the speaker frame by separating a few nuts and bolts. Others are press fit together and essentially impractical for home repair. If yours is removable, it's not too much trouble to strip the wire off the core and rewind the field coil with approximately the same guage of wire. It's a matter of chucking the old core onto the business end of an electric drill, mounting the feed spool of magnet wire on a dowel and winding about as much wire as you can, as evenly as you can, onto the core. Ideally, you want to have DC resistance of the newly wound field coil within a hundred ohms or so of the original resistance. The value is not critical. If that's not practical, you can substitute a fixed resistor (or resistors) for the voltage drop across the field coil and use a modern permanent magnet speaker. Do a power calculation to determine the wattage the substitute resistor is going to dissipate. Use a wattage two or three times the calculated value. This resistor is going to be large and it's going to get HOT. Mount it in a place where it will get good air circulation - probably not under the chassis. Keep in mind that the leads of this resistor will carry high voltage, so the leads should be protected from accidental contact. Article: 339589 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:16:46 +0900 Message-ID: References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> -- Say no to institutionalized interference. Just say NO to HD/IBOC! wrote in message news:1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? >> >> >> >> Any body have any thoughts on this? >> >> -- >> Carl >> WA1KPD >> Visit My Boatanchor Collection at >> http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html > > Have you looked at the bias on the grids of the 45's? s/b about -45V > as I recall (A bit less than half of the voltage across the field > coil). There is a resistive divider and a bypass cap involved. Also, > the - of the filters doesn't run to the chassis ground, correct? > First two filters do not go to ground directly. Beyond that, there are two resistors which more or less split the field coil, and the capacitor at the center point between them goes to ground. This point feeds the grid bias for the outputs. See Beitman's Vol. 1, Page 14. Article: 339590 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help! Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:13:37 -0700 Message-ID: <3346-44DFCE41-266@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> >From Carl=A0(WA1KPD): >-OK > >...the CT for neither the output primary >or the secondary to the grids is an exact >CT. They are both slightly higher on one >side. It is more like 60/40 than CT. Sounds pretty normal. They're actually CT in _number of turns_ either side of center. But the length of wire increases as radius of the winding increases. Thus the outermost windings will have higher DC resistance than the innermost windings. Your problem is most likely a bias issue as another poster mentioned. Bill(oc) Article: 339591 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Soldering techniques From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 01:23:38 GMT In article <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com>, yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net says... > > > >That's always nice, but in the early '30s Atwater Kent engineers provided no >eyelet and you simply lay the wire on the pad in a puddle of solder. > >john H. > > yup and that approach works as long as you don't move the joint while it is cooling.. wonder how AK always did that? John k9uwa Article: 339592 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Stephanie Weil" Subject: Re: FART....radio! Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:42:47 -0700 Message-ID: <1155519767.320637.215220@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: robert casey wrote: > If Howard Stern were still on regular radio stations, I'd use this FART > set to listen to his show.... ;-) That'd be kind of hard, since I suspect this is an AM-only radio. :D -- steph Article: 339593 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Stephanie Weil" Subject: Re: NordMende Carmen 55 Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:57:22 -0700 Message-ID: <1155520642.609787.275730@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155497258.375171.21460@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Martin Crossley wrote: > Is it this set? > http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/nordmende_carmen_55.html Hahaha...Bingo Martin. Not a bad story for a 1950s radio, is it? :) -- Stephanie Weil Article: 339594 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:13:58 -0700 Message-ID: <1155521638.697914.185780@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Some new pics http://www.flickr.com/photos/davehenning/sets/72157594235922473/ I took the whole thing *(chassis, speaker) out of the cabinet, when I put it all together, double checking each connection of course, I powered the radio up, and the volume wasn't as loud as it was before. To check if it was the speaker that was the problem, I wired in a modern hi-fi speaker and it blasted ouyt sound. So now I need a replacement 6 inch speaker! I have the one I used for the test but it 5 inches. Too small. I'm thinking I should l;eave the shot speaker in the cabinet disconnected until I find a replacement of the same size and put the hi-fi speaker back in it's cabinet and wire that up for now. Also it has the function for a phonograph but where do you connect it. I want to connect a CD player. It has two holes in the back of the chassis, and one jack on the front of the cabinet that is the type of headphone plug you would see on '60's phono's . Not the modern type plug. But it takes 5 pins on top in the shape of this \ | / and one square pin at the bottom. Tried to get a clear pic of this without fail. And I can only get about two stations on the dial (AM band). What's up with that? I had a wire antenna connected but I stepped on that and accidently ripped it out. It has a ferrite bar. Article: 339595 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:20:16 -0700 Message-ID: <1155522016.698324.181470@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> UPDATE! Tried original speaker again and it has good volume again. Not quite as good as the hi-fi speaker but decent enought that I'll wire it back in. I'll keep the hi-fi speaker handy though. Article: 339596 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "HobbyBox" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:27:05 -0700 Message-ID: <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Thanks for the advice, Neil and Carter! I think I just needed the bit of confidence in attempting to respool my own wire. I figured that was the route I had to go, but didn't know how involved it was going to be. I think I'll have to start constructing my spoiling jig now :) Any good sources for being a large bundle of high-guage wire? This spool seems rather large. This looks like it might be a fun challenge. I'll let you all know how it goes... whenever I get the time to complete it all. If you happen on any further advice, definitely let me know! I am in need of any and all. Thanks, Nate Article: 339597 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:55:49 -0700 Message-ID: <1155524149.184618.64050@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> The speaker has improved a bit now. I must have missed something like made a wrong connection. My cat was annoying me, trying to get in the radio, and just being a pain. Listening to it now, to some sports thing. Sound is not exactly perfect but does me. I don't want it loud in case I damage the speaker. The cone's very brittle. Probably will eventually get a replacement. Can't complain for something I got for nothing I guess. Huge radio. I have it in my bedroom and it takes up most of my drawers chest. I have another '60's portable and a reproduction Philco 90, and both of them sit comfortably on top with room to spare. The portable has problems though. Only works when it wants to, which is fine with me, as I only want it for display. One more thing. What year was this beast manfactured? Sorry for my ramblings, I get carried away Article: 339598 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Carl WA1KPD" References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: A-K55 Fixed Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 22:56:28 -0400 Message-ID: "Brenda Ann" wrote > First two filters do not go to ground directly. BINGO, we have a winner. That was indeed it and boy do I feel dumb. Working fast in a daze and everyone knows that filter caps (-) go to ground. Except in a lot of old radios. As soon as I read that post I knew the problem. Upstairs, 15 minutes of rewiring and it is sweet sounding. Many thanks and 73. I have done this before in other radios and feel a little bit silly All hail Brenda -- Carl WA1KPD Visit My Boatanchor Collection at http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html "Brenda Ann" wrote in message news:eboioi$q40$1@news2.kornet.net... > > > -- > Say no to institutionalized interference. > Just say NO to HD/IBOC! > wrote in message > news:1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... >> > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp?????? >>> >>> >>> >>> Any body have any thoughts on this? >>> >>> -- >>> Carl >>> WA1KPD >>> Visit My Boatanchor Collection at >>> http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html >> >> Have you looked at the bias on the grids of the 45's? s/b about -45V >> as I recall (A bit less than half of the voltage across the field >> coil). There is a resistive divider and a bypass cap involved. Also, >> the - of the filters doesn't run to the chassis ground, correct? >> > Beyond that, there are two > resistors which more or less split the field coil, and the capacitor at > the center point between them goes to ground. This point feeds the grid > bias for the outputs. > > See Beitman's Vol. 1, Page 14. > > > Article: 339599 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Bill Morris" References: <1155519767.320637.215220@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: FART....radio! Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 23:09:37 -0400 Message-ID: <44dfe969$0$1017$39cecf19@news.twtelecom.net> So you plug it in, switch it on and it gives off a funny odor. Blame it on the dog..... "Stephanie Weil" wrote in message news:1155519767.320637.215220@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > robert casey wrote: > >> If Howard Stern were still on regular radio stations, I'd use this FART >> set to listen to his show.... ;-) > > That'd be kind of hard, since I suspect this is an AM-only radio. :D > > -- > steph > Article: 339600 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: A-K55 Fixed Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 12:30:10 +0900 Message-ID: References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> -- Say no to institutionalized interference. Just say NO to HD/IBOC! "Carl WA1KPD" wrote in message news:DtqdncUMSdjCe0LZnZ2dnUVZ_oednZ2d@comcast.com... > "Brenda Ann" wrote > First two filters do not go to > ground directly. > > BINGO, we have a winner. That was indeed it and boy do I feel dumb. > Working fast in a daze and everyone knows that filter caps (-) go to > ground. Except in a lot of old radios. As soon as I read that post I knew > the problem. Upstairs, 15 minutes of rewiring and it is sweet sounding. > > Many thanks and 73. I have done this before in other radios and feel a > little bit silly > I try to help, but some of the others deserve as much credit. :) Article: 339601 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil Date: 13 Aug 2006 20:51:06 -0700 Message-ID: <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> There are several magnet wire suppliers listed if you Google 'magnet wire'. Once you have determined the wire gauge [diameter to an accuracy of 1/10,000 "], and you have weighed the existing coil, you can contact the suppliers and see who will sell you "single weight" polythermaleze of the correct size and in the quantity you need. Neil S. HobbyBox wrote: > Thanks for the advice, Neil and Carter! I think I just needed the bit > of confidence in attempting to respool my own wire. I figured that was > the route I had to go, but didn't know how involved it was going to be. > I think I'll have to start constructing my spoiling jig now :) > > Any good sources for being a large bundle of high-guage wire? This > spool seems rather large. > > This looks like it might be a fun challenge. I'll let you all know how > it goes... whenever I get the time to complete it all. > > If you happen on any further advice, definitely let me know! I am in > need of any and all. > > Thanks, > Nate Article: 339602 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: James Sweet Subject: It speaks! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 04:38:17 GMT Some of you may have been following my acquisition of a console consisting of a 1938 7 tube Zenith shutterdial chassis in a Sparton cabinet. I finally had some time to work on the chassis some this weekend. I replaced the electrolytics as well as a capacitor hanging off the audio output tube and another cap and resistor (out of tolerance) that happened to share some of the same lugs. I applied power, no smoke or funny sounds, and then a short while later I was greeted by a buzz. A twirl of the dial and people bitching about politics blared from the speaker, not my first choice of listening material but it works! I was pleased to find a fair amount of activity on the SW band though the tuning seems a bit twitchy, as well as a tiny amount on the "Police" band which all in all is pretty impressive given my antenna is about 6' of wire strewn across the floor. It's definitely far from done, the controls are very noisy, the tuning feels a bit odd at least on the SW band, the tuning eye glows dimly but is completely unresponsive, the insulation is crumbling off the speaker wires and there's still a fair amount of cleaning and other cosmetic work to do but it's off to a good start. I've been restuffing the original capacitors as practice, it does slow things down a bit but it's not as difficult as I would have assumed. I cheated and used hot glue instead of salvaging the original brown wax and then dipping the finished cap in molten white candle wax to give it that waxy look, it'd take a close eye to ever see the difference. I'm already feeling the itch to get another radio too, hopefully I can find a nice little wood cased table radio at some point, an AA5 would be fine, I'm *hoping* that that'll be enough, I don't want my whole house stacked with radios, at some point I wouldn't mind trading up to a nicer all original console though. Article: 339603 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "AuroraOldRadios" Subject: Re: It speaks! Date: 13 Aug 2006 21:51:54 -0700 Message-ID: <1155531113.977189.274670@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: James Sweet wrote: > Some of you may have been following my acquisition of a console > consisting of a 1938 7 tube Zenith shutterdial chassis in a Sparton > cabinet. > > I finally had some time to work on the chassis some this weekend. I > replaced the electrolytics as well as a capacitor hanging off the audio > output tube and another cap and resistor (out of tolerance) that > happened to share some of the same lugs. I applied power, no smoke or > funny sounds, and then a short while later I was greeted by a buzz. A > twirl of the dial and people bitching about politics blared from the > speaker, not my first choice of listening material but it works! I was > pleased to find a fair amount of activity on the SW band though the > tuning seems a bit twitchy, as well as a tiny amount on the "Police" > band which all in all is pretty impressive given my antenna is about 6' > of wire strewn across the floor. > > It's definitely far from done, the controls are very noisy, the tuning > feels a bit odd at least on the SW band, the tuning eye glows dimly but > is completely unresponsive, the insulation is crumbling off the speaker > wires and there's still a fair amount of cleaning and other cosmetic > work to do but it's off to a good start. I've been restuffing the > original capacitors as practice, it does slow things down a bit but it's > not as difficult as I would have assumed. I cheated and used hot glue > instead of salvaging the original brown wax and then dipping the > finished cap in molten white candle wax to give it that waxy look, it'd > take a close eye to ever see the difference. > > I'm already feeling the itch to get another radio too, hopefully I can > find a nice little wood cased table radio at some point, an AA5 would be > fine, I'm *hoping* that that'll be enough, I don't want my whole house > stacked with radios, at some point I wouldn't mind trading up to a nicer > all original console though. What? You don't want consoles and tombstones stacked to the ceiling? Once you get the "bug" it'll be hard to stop. Isn't it a grand feeling to power up a newly-repaired chassis and hear it work? Article: 339604 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "AuroraOldRadios" Subject: FS: Zenith branded globe 45 aka TYPE Z-45, used Date: 13 Aug 2006 22:06:59 -0700 Message-ID: <1155532019.233227.174650@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> FS: Somebody here might need one for a Zenith late 20s console. Looks good, tests 750 where 575 is minimum, no gas, passes life test, no shorts (Hickok 752). Also a quick emission test shows it to be strong. No loose particles inside glass, good getter. Big globe with engraved base, Zenith Type Z-45. $65 includes shipping to CUSA. Guaranteed good (your test results may vary). reply to: menwagoh at msn d0t c0m Article: 339605 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" Subject: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 00:14:09 -0500 Message-ID: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though. This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by Clinton. Looks like this: http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder failed to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be there under some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the inside of the cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) and doesn't photograph well. Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80. Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is on it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent maker-style nail-on tags. Thanks paul -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Article: 339606 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 22:25:53 -0700 Message-ID: <1155533153.818248.286890@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Dave.H wrote: > The speaker has improved a bit now. I must have missed something like > made a wrong connection. My cat was annoying me, trying to get in the > radio, and just being a pain. Listening to it now, to some sports > thing. Sound is not exactly perfect but does me. I don't want it loud > in case I damage the speaker. The cone's very brittle. Probably will > eventually get a replacement. Can't complain for something I got for > nothing I guess. Huge radio. I have it in my bedroom and it takes up > most of my drawers chest. I have another '60's portable and a > reproduction Philco 90, and both of them sit comfortably on top with > room to spare. The portable has problems though. Only works when it > wants to, which is fine with me, as I only want it for display. One > more thing. What year was this beast manfactured? Sorry for my > ramblings, I get carried away Dave, ask one of the speaker experts such as Ken G. about treating the cone short term vs. a recone. Since I have no idea about where to find reconers in your area, treatment and lighter usage seems to be a great idea until you find this service. Article: 339607 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Black Dial and bluebird UPDATE Date: 13 Aug 2006 22:27:46 -0700 Message-ID: <1155533266.470961.274210@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1153952283.300964.3230@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Mail being mailed, I'll let you know when I know and I get it. Article: 339608 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 01:39:50 -0400 Message-ID: I recall seeing this dial under the name "Imperial" in the Stein books... its definitely a "supplier" made set. It could have been sold under the Lafayette name too I think. Mark Oppat "Paul Dietenberger" wrote in message news:44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com... > I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though. > > This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by > Clinton. Looks like this: > http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg > 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder failed > to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be there under > some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the inside of the > cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) and doesn't > photograph well. > > Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80. > > Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is on > it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent maker-style > nail-on tags. > > Thanks > paul > > > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > > Article: 339609 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 23:13:32 -0700 Message-ID: <1155536012.823179.295660@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> How would I go about getting an AM transmitter so I can broadcast my music to it? I have a FM transitter, but not AM. I'm willing to build one. Do not know where I can get one, or the parts for one. Article: 339610 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 23:21:14 -0700 Message-ID: <1155536474.735725.9380@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> I've already got the itch to get another antique radio. I've started watching out on eBay for any I can do a practice restore on. I want a valve (tube) radio next. There's nothing like listening to that rich sound an old valve radio has. Article: 339611 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Dave.H" Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations Date: 13 Aug 2006 23:33:54 -0700 Message-ID: <1155537234.907825.70130@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> Think I found one to learn on http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HMV-LITTLE-NIPPER-SUPER-5-VALVE-RADIO_W0QQitemZ280016193029QQihZ018QQcategoryZ3284QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Article: 339612 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO? Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 23:58:23 -0700 Message-ID: I just got done with a recap and alignment of a Zenith 8G005 Trans-Oceanic. It plays great with its built-in antennas and is very sensitive. I would like to place this radio on the middle of a series of shelves, which precludes extending the giant built-in whip antenna. Unlike the later 1950s TOs, this radio does not have provisions for connecting an external longwire antennna (there is no A or G terminals on the back of the set). I tried extending the antenna just enough to clip a longwire antenna to it, but that doesn't work too well. I get audio that sounds like someone is gargling and there is hum that appears whenever I tune into a station. Is there anything I can do to allow a longwire antenna to be used as the primary antenna on this set without the gargling? -Scott Article: 339613 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO? Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:46:30 +0900 Message-ID: References: -- Say no to institutionalized interference. Just say NO to HD/IBOC! "Scott W. Harvey" wrote in message news:ebp6r30ppa@news1.newsguy.com... >I just got done with a recap and alignment of a Zenith 8G005 Trans-Oceanic. >It plays great with its built-in antennas and is very sensitive. > > I would like to place this radio on the middle of a series of shelves, > which precludes extending the giant built-in whip antenna. Unlike the > later 1950s TOs, this radio does not have provisions for connecting an > external longwire antennna (there is no A or G terminals on the back of > the set). I tried extending the antenna just enough to clip a longwire > antenna to it, but that doesn't work too well. I get audio that sounds > like someone is gargling and there is hum that appears whenever I tune > into a station. Is there anything I can do to allow a longwire antenna to > be used as the primary antenna on this set without the gargling? > > -Scott Interesting. There should be a set of screws right where the monopole antenna connects, with the antenna going to the one closest to the monopole connection, and the ground to the other. Should look a little like this: M A G v [] ( ) ( ) Article: 339614 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Eddie Brimer" Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: 14 Aug 2006 04:35:11 -0700 Message-ID: <1155555311.205871.53180@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Paul Dietenberger wrote: > I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though. > > This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by > Clinton. Looks like this: > http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg > 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder failed > to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be there under > some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the inside of the > cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) and doesn't > photograph well. > > Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80. > > Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is on > it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent maker-style > nail-on tags. > > Thanks > paul > dand good looking radio you got there paul. > > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Article: 339615 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: It speaks! From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 12:15:50 GMT In article , jamessweet@hotmail.com says... > > >It's definitely far from done, the controls are very noisy, the tuning >feels a bit odd at least on the SW band, the tuning eye glows dimly but >is completely unresponsive, the insulation is crumbling off the speaker Congrats James .... check from pin 2 to 4 in the eye tube socket... 1 meg resistor inside the socket is usually way way high. Also lack of response says that your AVC negative voltage isn't swinging far enough negative on strong signals ... you need -8 to -9 volts to close the eye if tube is a 6E5 .. about 25 feet or wire antenna and a 50KW station thats about 45 miles away and the eye should close if you have all the resistors and capacitors in the avc curcuit correct.. John k9uwa Article: 339616 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 12:19:53 GMT In article <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>, hobby.box@gmail.com says... > > >Any good sources for being a large bundle of high-guage wire? This >spool seems rather large. > > >Thanks, >Nate > If you have a local shop that repairs motors... they will have the wire you need.. John k9uwa Article: 339617 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Stein-Olav Lund Subject: Re: (De)soldering techniques Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 14:59:34 +0200 Message-ID: References: <1155300902.787861.183610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <7063-44DC8A61-25@storefull-3174.bay.webtv.net> <1155305783.869268.287580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <44dc8f4c$0$509$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Paul Dietenberger wrote: > "toxcrusadr" wrote in message > news:1155305783.869268.287580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > >>Showing my ignorance here, but... >> >>1) What are dikes? > > > Diagonal cutters. > > >>2) How the heck (and when) do you use solder braid? I can never get >>solder to go up into it. Do you put it on the work and put the iron on >>top of it, or what? It seems like a pain to use the stuff but maybe >>I'm using it wrong. I prefer my solder sucker. This summer we were at a ham radio repeater doing some repair. We didn't have any desolder braid, and had to change a component on a PCB..Got a tip from one of the guys there: Take a bit of the insulation off a piece of stranded wire and go into the woods, rub a pine tree and get rosin onto it... He left the site and returned with pine rosin on the wire, and it worked like a charm to remove the solder, actually smelt like normal solder rosin! LA9QV Article: 339618 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 07:50:31 -0600 Message-ID: <10418-44E07FA7-166@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net> References: <44DF8520.49E0E86C@earthlink.net> so that thermal cycling doesn't separate the tin plating from the steel component leads. That might happen once in 50 years . Article: 339619 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO? Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 07:33:19 -0700 Message-ID: References: Brenda Ann wrote: > Interesting. There should be a set of screws right where the monopole > antenna connects, with the antenna going to the one closest to the monopole > connection, and the ground to the other. Should look a little like this: > > > M A G > v > [] ( ) ( ) Not on this set, and not on another 8G005 that I have in the restoration queue either. The only antenna connectors that are there are jacks for small cylindrical plugs which attach the monopole and Broadcast Wavemagnet (and a socket to plug in the shortwave wavemagnet for use in planes, trains and automobiles). I'm guessing that Zenith did not include the A and G screws to facilitate connection of a longwire until they went to miniature tubes in the 1950s (G500 and later), reasoning that the monopole was sufficient for shortwave reception (which it is, for the most part). I have noticed a bit of the same hum shows up when I tune to a very strong SW station using the monopole (not enough to be annoying, but it is there), lowering the monopole a bit seems to eliminate that. It's been a very long time since I've done an 8G005, and this is the version that has the one slender miniature tube for a rectifier (which I have never done) so I don't know if this behavior is typical of this model or not. I wonder what is going on here? All of the filter caps have been restuffed with brand new caps and the 60 Hz hum coming from the speaker with the volume turned all the way down is so low I literally have to press my ear to the speaker grille in order to hear any of it at all, so I have good reason to believe the replacement caps are healthy. -Scott Article: 339620 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index? Date: 14 Aug 2006 08:02:11 -0700 Message-ID: <1155567730.938648.35470@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Eddie Brimer wrote: > dand good looking radio you got there paul. Thanks, I like it.....Wish I could take credit for the refinish but I can't; it was done by Jerry Huelsbeck upstate with his Binks and it looks even better in person. He had a lot of work to do, it had been "antiqued". I bought it from him with only the cabinet done. I get to do the chassis, and it's rusty dusty mess but it talked to me when I replaced the filter caps. So it'll be a big job but with any luck it'll be a nice radio soon. Too bad it's anonymous. It ought to have a name. -p. Article: 339621 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: (De)Soldering techniques Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 08:16:05 -0700 Message-ID: <28856-44E093B5-243@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net> References: <10418-44E07FA7-166@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net> It's a bit surprizing there hasn't been more discussion of the method described earlier- of using a large dikes to split a wiring bundle lengthwise on the lug, so that when heated, it just separates from the lug like two sides of ribs. It's hassle free, requires no braid or solder-slurper, just a large diagonal cutter for leverage, some heat, and gravity. Works in cramped quarters such as in car radios, especially useful in replacing twist-lok electrolytics having many wires wrapped on their lugs. Easy on terminal strips and tube socket lugs too, as minimal flexing stress is imposed on the lug (compared to the stress of prying and unwinding a lot of the wires while unsoldering). Bill(oc) Article: 339622 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Applications where tubes are still king?? References: <1154980972.462384.103210@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <0jRBg.9349$bo6.5139@bignews7.bellsouth.net> <44DAABF6.8A2A29A5@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:57:24 -0500 James Sweet wrote: > >> >> >> The operating costs for the tube version more than offsets the >> difference in purchase price, and the smaller number of tube >> transmitters has narrowed the gap considerably. You use less >> electricity for a solid state transmitter, that means less is used for >> air conditioning. The transmitter is smaller, and requires less >> maintenance over its life. That maintenance can be done by less skilled >> staff, and it is rare that the transmitter would go down completely, >> reducing the number of make goods on advertising. You can continue to >> run the transmitter with a single bad output module while it is repair >> locally, or at the factory. If you need a backup generator and switch >> gear it will be cheaper, as well. Thales and Harris are the only two >> manufacturers I'm still familiar with. Thales bought Comark, which made >> the last big transmitter I worked on. All solid state, except the >> Klystrons, and it was delivered a week before the Klystrodes hit the >> market. It uses three 65 KW Klystrons, two Visual, and one Aural. It >> cost over $45,000 to rebuild one of the Klystrons in 1990. >> > > > > That may well be true, but it doesn't change the fact that many people > still shop strictly by price. Look at how many people still use 25 cent > incandescent lightbulbs despite the fact that a $3 compact fluorescent > will more than pay for itself in electricity savings, or who will buy a > $99 Wal-Mart special TV instead of paying $150 to get their older high > end Sony repaired. > Unfortunately, the $99 Walmart will probably have desirable features unavailable on the ten year old Sony. Even though ten years life is a pipe dream for the WM special, in a decade, the HD will likely have finally taken off, so even the WM set will be obsolete if it still works at all. The light bulb example doesn't work either, as incandescents are better at some things than CFL's. The color temp is more agreeable to many. They fire up to full brightness immediately. They can be used outdoors. They can be dimmed reliably...and speaking of reliability, that's a factor as well. There is nothing quite so disheartening than to spend several times extra for a supposedly 'long life' product, only to find it didn't last any longer than the standard product it was supposed to replace. I think the LED is a much better technology, with more potential for eventually replacing the heated wire as a source of light. jak Article: 339623 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Soldering techniques References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:00:46 -0500 Mike wrote: > On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 13:49:46 -0400, "Hagstar" > wrote: > >> "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message >> news:3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72... >> >>> good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint.. >>> >> That's always nice, but in the early '30s Atwater Kent engineers provided no >> eyelet and you simply lay the wire on the pad in a puddle of solder. >> >> john H. >> > Sounds like early Surface Mount Technology (heh, heh) > > It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when > soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder. > > Mike > Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint. The lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to speak of. jak Article: 339624 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Soldering techniques References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:02:52 -0500 William Sommerwerck wrote: >> Good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint... > > I would disagree here. A good solder joint starts with clean leads and clean > terminals. > > We've gone through this before, but I'll repeat it... Many years ago J. > Gordon Holt, founder of "The Stereophile", argued for simply slipping the > leads into the lugs without bending them around. His argument was that this > not only save assembly time and effort, but made it easier to replace > components. > As I pointed out above, this is exactly what happens on every joint, on every printed circuit. Without the solder, the components would simply fall off. jak > Broadly speaking, I agree. But this method requires cleanliness and close > attention to the quality of the joint. > > > Article: 339625 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO? Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 08:58:02 -0700 Message-ID: <14519-44E09D8A-504@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net> References: >From Scott: >I get audio that sounds like someone is >gargling and there is hum that appears >whenever I tune into a station. There is a phenomenon called 'tunable hum' wherein the received signal gets 'modulated' by the 60 cycle powerline. It's usually caused by SS diodes somewhere nearby acting as an RF switch, switching a section of house wiring 'on' and 'off' to RF at 60 cycle rate. >Is there anything I can do to allow a >longwire antenna to be used as the >primary antenna on this set without the >gargling? Try turning off all nearby equipment containing SS diodes in the power supply. If you've replaced the TO's selenium with a SS diode, try reversing the AC plug in the wall outlet. Have you tried running the TO on batteries? Bill(oc) Article: 339626 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6pMDg.3888$Qf.3778@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:06:18 -0500 robert casey wrote: > schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote: > >> I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many >> "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon >> bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED. >> > > Use a red and green 3 legged LED. The neon orange color could be > simulated by a mix of the red and the green light. Something like the > red being twice as bright as the green should look close to the neon > orange color. This trick is used in color CRT displays and TV sets. >> > To complete the illusion, you might add some kind of circuit to make it flicker as well. Article: 339627 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS) Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 16:21:15 GMT Message-ID: References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6pMDg.3888$Qf.3778@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> In article , jakdedert wrote: >robert casey wrote: >> schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote: >> >>> I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many >>> "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon >>> bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED. >>> >> >> Use a red and green 3 legged LED. The neon orange color could be >> simulated by a mix of the red and the green light. Something like the >> red being twice as bright as the green should look close to the neon >> orange color. This trick is used in color CRT displays and TV sets. >>> >> >To complete the illusion, you might add some kind of circuit to make it >flicker as well. And burn out also. greg Article: 339628 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "big_john" Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO? Date: 14 Aug 2006 09:21:45 -0700 Message-ID: <1155572505.420750.40240@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: You can take a coil with MANY windings on it (can be small or large in size) and hook one end to an outside antenna and the other end to an earth ground. Place the coil near the radio and it will couple the signal to the built-in antenna the radio has. You may have to orient the coil a bit for best signal strength. Article: 339629 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS) Subject: Re: Soldering techniques Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 16:27:05 GMT Message-ID: References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> In article , jakdedert wrote: >Mike wrote: >> On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 13:49:46 -0400, "Hagstar" >> wrote: >> >>> "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message >>> news:3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72... >>> >>>> good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint.. >>>> >>> That's always nice, but in the early '30s Atwater Kent engineers provided no > >>> eyelet and you simply lay the wire on the pad in a puddle of solder. >>> >>> john H. >>> >> Sounds like early Surface Mount Technology (heh, heh) >> >> It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when >> soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder. >> >> Mike >> >Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint. The >lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to >speak of. There is always mechanical contact when doing PCB's. It may be poor but surface mount components touch down before soldering. I think the worse case is flat packs and large thin leaded processors chips, where the leads are very thin and may be the case where there is not good contact first. greg Article: 339630 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155442489.853218.311050@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155448463.626136.218300@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155453725.474288.280800@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155453918.679954.96860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155457765.211438.125640@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155459924.899348.199570@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155471608.033953.320580@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155474088.221218.117600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors Message-ID: Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 16:45:29 GMT Although it appears Steven has given you a tremendous amount of help already, I think I'll chime in for a moment. The crackling you're hearing, is it a noise that you hear when you adjust the volume control, or is it a distortion that you hear the entire time the radio is playing? You mentioned a torn speaker cone; if the speaker's cone is warped and the voice coil is rubbing against the magnet, you will indeed hear distortion and you may need to replace your speaker. A substitute speaker, as you mentioned is the best way to troubleshoot this. If the crackling sound is a static noise you get when adjusting the volume control, then indeed you should try cleaning the control. As for what to use, there are debates on this list till kingdom come, but personally I've had the best luck with WD-40 -- and you don't necessarily need to wait till tomorrow to use the radio; I use it right away. Now -- others I'm sure will chime in, saying that WD-40 will turn it into a pumpkin or something, but I've used it for many years with excellent results -- and I was told about it from a manufacturer. I also know that many on this list believe in De-Oxit. I was in a store and bought some, what turned out to be De-Ox-Id, with a "d", by GC Electronics. It works, although WD-40 works noticeably better. Someday I'll find the stuff with the "t" and compare it. But heck -- even Radio Shack cleaner will work -- it's not my favorite but it will work. If it doesn't come clean no matter what, chances are the pad is worn through, and you'll need to replace the control. Mark Oppat, on this list, can help you if you need to go that far. But chances are it's the speaker. Keep us posted. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Steven" wrote in message news:1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com... > > Dave.H wrote: >> It works fine, I haven't disaligned those things, I only tried to rub >> the black stuff off. I was using furniture polish to clean inside and >> out. I guess thats no good. Sounds nice but the volume crackles a >> bit, and the holes in the speaker cone don't worry me. If it ain't >> broke why fix it, as the speaker sounds excellent (although I wonder if >> the crackling is really the speaker) I think I have some old car >> speakers buried in the shed, I'll try to find them to find out. Not >> sure if I kept them when I cleaned my shed out. The cabinet came up >> good with just Mr. Sheen furniture polish with almond oil. > > Dave, the crackling isn't the speaker, it's the volume switch. > > If it's a regular pot, spraying may/may not help it but it must get > into the switch (it WILL evaporate over a day or two. DO NOT DO THIS > UNLESS POWER IS REMOVED (UNPLUG IT)! Work the switch all the way back > and forth numerous times to lube and clean the pot well and do not > operate it for most of a day. Work it from time to time to help it > self-clean. If you have the rotary point-contact type ALA a pocket set > that has a volume wheel, it could be harder and I don't think > advisable. > > Determine which control crackles (especially if it has tone or balance > controls) and repeat for all noisy controls. > > PLEASE NOTE: Cleaning may not be a cure and the noises may return after > the controls start to dry out and/or the controls are once again a > mess. Eventually you may find yourself replacing the pots anyway. > > Whomever passes for Dick Smith there will know what kind of sprays are > best for the job and safer to use on your plastics. > > If you aren't having the sound break up all the time or for the > briefest time while adjusting the knob, you may always just take it for > granted and let it be until it becomes like Alice Cooper's python to > you and squeezes the fun out of listening. > > Some of that fabulous Australian pop music awaits you, so go get it! > Article: 339632 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:32:19 -0700 Message-ID: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> References: >From jak: >To complete the illusion, you might add >some kind of circuit to make it flicker as >well. Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll 'flicker' at 60 cps, 'on' for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle. Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns 'on' at the peak of every half cycle (ie, it flickers 120 times a second). oc Article: 339633 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "RadioGary" Subject: Re: FART....radio! Date: 14 Aug 2006 10:45:59 -0700 Message-ID: <1155577559.829511.38930@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: So considering this radio is antique and somewhat aged, would that make it an OLD FART RADIO? Oh yessssss, thank you GB, you've done it again. Daniele wrote: > And after a couple of years the 'SHITOLA' > appeared on eBay... that's the time for the 'FART', > actually the brand name was F.A.R.T., from Italy. > I'm not related with this item, even if i know him > very well, nice person. > See > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300015398462 > > > -- > Daniele > http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 339634 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: Soldering techniques References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: <2T2Eg.16375$Nx4.10445@bignews8.bellsouth.net> Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 13:01:51 -0500 GregS wrote: > In article , jakdedert wrote: >> Mike wrote: >>> On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 13:49:46 -0400, "Hagstar" >>> wrote: >>> >>>> "John Goller, k9uwa" wrote in message >>>> news:3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72... >>>> >>>>> good solder joints start wi