Article: 341226 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1157052456.797906.88000@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Wisconsin Console Rescue, Anyone? Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 02:29:44 GMT "Mike Koste" wrote in message news:1157052456.797906.88000@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com... > $75 BIN for a nice Stewart Warner ten tuber. Whatchawaitinfor? > http://cgi.ebay.com/vintage-Stewart-Warner-10-TUBE-floor-console-radio-NR_W0QQitemZ150028233985QQihZ005QQcategoryZ38034QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem > > I'd rather spend my $75 in Hurley rather than Hayward. jim menning (Wisconsin humor - you had to be there) Article: 341227 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1156885253.582989.181800@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1156889071.984413.224350@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1156919925.389622.257500@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156943588.451209.162540@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156993046.820837.140760@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157029824.257494.181090@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157038393.055990.139460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1157041431.861570.309420@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <38EJg.942$d72.102@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <44F73B19.A0D85573@earthlink.net> <1157053759.258200.65420@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Dinius again Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 02:31:40 GMT "Steven" wrote in message news:1157053759.258200.65420@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > Michael A. Terrell wrote: >> > You don't even know my parents names much less the phone number. > > Put up or stop wasting peoples' time. > You mean El**n Dinius @ (208) 465 - XX43 was wrong? I'll have to call and see. jim menning Article: 341228 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: CORRECTION- What Does the12th Tube Do? Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 22:35:09 -0400 Message-ID: <12ff739kcrho84c@corp.supernews.com> Look at this dual schematic- http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/422/M0013422.htm Notice the only difference between a 41-295 and a 41-300 is one added loctal, a dual diode (note box on schematic lower right). BUT what does it DO, if anything? John H. Article: 341229 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniel Russell" Subject: Re: Speaker with torn cone Date: 31 Aug 2006 19:35:47 -0700 Message-ID: <1157078147.795575.262490@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1156906034.411946.312510@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Great, thanks for the info guys. Dan Buck Frobisher wrote: > "Phil Nelson" wrote in message > news:goudnaEJvv_6y2rZnZ2dnUVZ_qOdnZ2d@giganews.com... > >> Use Aleenes fabric glue for the rip, available at hobby stores. > > > > If the rip is big and you want to patch it, tea bag paper works well. > > > > Phil Nelson > > Or a used dryer sheet. > > Gives it that just washed scent, too! > > cheers, > Frank Article: 341230 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: What Does the 12th Tube DO? Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 22:35:46 -0400 Message-ID: <12ff74eon7h965e@corp.supernews.com> References: <12ff3rub6gne075@corp.supernews.com> Thanks, right, see corrected post. John H. Article: 341231 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1157031726.108183.46300@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <21267-44F701D4-112@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> <1157040284.558583.78380@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1157066545.362517.276870@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157069034.041083.20150@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: OT: Have you read about steorn? Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 02:36:40 GMT "Steven" wrote in message news:1157069034.041083.20150@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com... > > Anti-Dinius wrote: >> Steven wrote: >> > >> > Ah, but the dead cat had to be run over by the diesel FIRST! It's kind >> > of futile unless you have a massacree. >> >> This isn't funny even if you don't like cats. It's just not funny. > > Have three I feed every day. > > The original reference wasn't funny either, sarcasm befit it. > > I've had three run over myself. He even drove his cats to commit suicide. jim menning Article: 341232 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Syl" References: <8bmdnUwgH7a97GrZnZ2dnUVZ_smdnZ2d@sigecom.net> Subject: Re: HELP! NEED INFO......Grebe Snycrophase Message-ID: Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 22:36:37 -0400 "Bruce Mercer" wrote in message news:8bmdnUwgH7a97GrZnZ2dnUVZ_smdnZ2d@sigecom.net... >I have wanted a Grebe Syncrophase for some time now. Would those in the >know check this out and give me some opinions as to what it should bring. >It's condition. It's hard to tell but the case looks awfully light in color >or is this an original finish. I did see a footprint of a capacitor and a >modern one sort of hanging in its' place. That's about all I could tell >from it. I don't have a clue as to its' value or what it should bring. (yes >I've read the recent threads) :-) I would appreciate the wisdom and >knowlege of the group on this one. About 23 hours to go. BTW...I recently >proclaimed I wasn't buying another single thing for a while other than >maybe a record or two. So here I go again. (but it IS small) > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170022954549&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=007 > > Thanks, > Bruce This one has a missing interstage transformer (replaced with a bumblebee cap and a resistor) has the wrong knobs (apparently unobtainium) and has been obviously stripped. Not counting the seller has a less than stellar feedback (look at his feedback, both previous buyers are NARU)! There was a discussion about this radio coupla months ago, you may have luck using Google and search for the comments at the time. "I" wouldn't touch it with a hundred foot pole but it's your money. I remember the first auction had a lot of BS and lies in the description... Syl Article: 341233 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Bruce Mercer" References: <8bmdnUwgH7a97GrZnZ2dnUVZ_smdnZ2d@sigecom.net> Subject: Re: HELP! NEED INFO......Grebe Snycrophase Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 21:48:03 -0500 Message-ID: Thanks.....that's what I needed to know. Bruce "Syl" wrote in message news:S0NJg.7844$3n5.225984@wagner.videotron.net... > > "Bruce Mercer" wrote in message > news:8bmdnUwgH7a97GrZnZ2dnUVZ_smdnZ2d@sigecom.net... >>I have wanted a Grebe Syncrophase for some time now. Would those in the >>know check this out and give me some opinions as to what it should bring. >>It's condition. It's hard to tell but the case looks awfully light in >>color or is this an original finish. I did see a footprint of a capacitor >>and a modern one sort of hanging in its' place. That's about all I could >>tell from it. I don't have a clue as to its' value or what it should >>bring. (yes I've read the recent threads) :-) I would appreciate the >>wisdom and knowlege of the group on this one. About 23 hours to go. >>BTW...I recently proclaimed I wasn't buying another single thing for a >>while other than maybe a record or two. So here I go again. (but it IS >>small) >> >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170022954549&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=007 >> >> Thanks, >> Bruce > > > This one has a missing interstage transformer (replaced with a bumblebee > cap and a resistor) > has the wrong knobs (apparently unobtainium) and has been obviously > stripped. Not counting > the seller has a less than stellar feedback (look at his feedback, both > previous buyers are NARU)! > > There was a discussion about this radio coupla months ago, you may have > luck using Google > and search for the comments at the time. "I" wouldn't touch it with a > hundred foot pole but > it's your money. I remember the first auction had a lot of BS and lies in > the description... > > Syl > Article: 341234 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: A real topic for somebody who will answer: Info on B+K 970 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 21:42:34 -0500 Message-ID: <2586-44F79E1A-257@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> References: Metinks those Irish (I am Scotch Irish by Ancestry,a double whammy on me and I have to go to the Celtic Festival www.celticfestms.org in September just because I am Celtic) Steorn folks would be ashamed some of y'all www.yall.com are talking the way y'all are on a Steorn thread.Grow Up! cuhulin,the Celtic Article: 341235 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Registered User Subject: Re: OKAY, for the last time... Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 22:33:30 -0400 Message-ID: References: <1156978719.068467.186340@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <44F78219.BA3D94F6@earthlink.net> <12ff28ntbgpj263@news.supernews.com> <1157074816.230162.287400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> It is your right to show yourself as an ass. I along with many others really wish this would be the last time. On 31 Aug 2006 18:40:16 -0700, "Steven" wrote: >FUCKING PAY ATTENTION AND READ WHAT I'M RESPONDING TO OR BE QUIET > >CANADIANS TOO, JOHANSEN. > >I don't know if you're old and can't do it or rabid and stupid but >maybe you need more pills. > >Don't make Britney Spears look like Mozart, and I grow tired of saying >retarded so go see the Wizard and GET A BRAIN. > >I'll leave when I die, which you will still have no control over. >You're not fazing me much but you go on these little crusades and gum >up everybody else's fun and then it's archived for all to see 100 years >from now. > >Going on a witchhunt to see if you can boot my ISP service will >eventually backfire on you. You will die before you see any perceived >benefits. Watching you subvert your own group would be funny were I not >here too. Article: 341236 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "PTurney" Subject: Re: What Does the 12th Tube DO? Date: 31 Aug 2006 19:51:47 -0700 Message-ID: <1157079107.320679.172060@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> References: <12ff3rub6gne075@corp.supernews.com> Hagstar wrote: > Thanks, right, see corrected post. > > John H Hi John, I've noticed this in the past and have discussed it on my web-site:- http://www.tuberadioland.com/philco41-255T_main.html (see second paragraph). I conclusion, I think it does very little.... Paul Article: 341237 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Subject changed to more of Skippy's lies. References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1156885253.582989.181800@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1156889071.984413.224350@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1156919925.389622.257500@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156943588.451209.162540@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156993046.820837.140760@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157029824.257494.181090@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157038393.055990.139460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1157066049.074434.236050@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157067239.380599.121560@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 03:32:36 GMT Steven wrote: > You are a liar. The garbage started over four years ago with Jeff, and > it's been a losing game of taking pot shots for you ever since. You can > sit here believing your garbage forever and it doesn't solve anything. You lying piece of shit. This all started with YOU acting like a complete asshole on this news group. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 341238 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: A real topic for somebody who will answer: Info on B+K 970 Radio References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1156885253.582989.181800@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1156889071.984413.224350@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1156919925.389622.257500@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156943588.451209.162540@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156993046.820837.140760@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157029824.257494.181090@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157038393.055990.139460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1157041431.861570.309420@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 03:48:46 GMT Steven wrote: > Jeff thinks my butt is going to explode and > spew rotten sausage bits across the universe. I should have know you were too stupid to catch the original reference. "Steve Dinius is a carbuncle on the ass of humanity." Meaning quite simply, a singular pain in the ass that should be lanced, drained and treated with anti-biotics to keep it from returning. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 341239 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Belleek Neptune cups and saucers for sale References: <1157033709_5975@sp6iad.superfeed.net> <1157035326.253868.117300@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157039644.182523.4680@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1157040123.551177.315660@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157066897.457031.196900@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157071833.581876.217240@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1157072640.169625.131930@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 03:50:07 GMT Anti-Dinius wrote: [ with reference to Skippy... ] > There's gotta be a group out there that fits your needs. I posted a couple of suggestions the other night. alt.suicide and alt.suicide.methods Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 341240 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Have you read about "DINIUS" and is it fatal? References: <21764-44F51020-858@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> <1156953166.084152.137670@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> <1157031726.108183.46300@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157036466.665313.257070@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <44F734E6.3E03C25C@earthlink.net> <1157054228.885751.126420@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 03:53:43 GMT Steven wrote: > Just why am I not hearing from Jeff Angus yet? Because unlike you, you worthless parasite, I work for a living. I spend probably the same amount of time, per day, taking care of customers and running my shop as you do being a complete fool on this newsgroup. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 341241 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" Subject: Re: Subject changed to more of Skippy's lies. Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 23:58:53 -0400 Message-ID: <12ffc004dnf5n4f@news.supernews.com> References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1156885253.582989.181800@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1156889071.984413.224350@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1156919925.389622.257500@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156943588.451209.162540@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156993046.820837.140760@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157029824.257494.181090@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157038393.055990.139460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1157066049.074434.236050@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157067239.380599.121560@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> too bad we never learn... (plonk) Article: 341242 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "KB9NLK" Subject: Re: Help on first Zenith 9-S-262 Restore - Dial Pointer? Springs? 6T5 Questions Date: 31 Aug 2006 21:04:31 -0700 Message-ID: <1157083471.383301.40160@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1156895028.393210.24220@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> Sounds good.... I just need the 26-151 for now... Thanks for the info! Anyone know what happened to www.gn4radios.com? I need to order a whole set of knobes for this radio. Any other sources? I hope I can find them somewhere..... Thanks, Ed KB9NLK Article: 341243 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Subject changed to more of Skippy's lies. References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1156885253.582989.181800@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1156889071.984413.224350@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1156919925.389622.257500@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156943588.451209.162540@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156993046.820837.140760@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157029824.257494.181090@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157038393.055990.139460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1157066049.074434.236050@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157067239.380599.121560@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <12ffc004dnf5n4f@news.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 04:12:30 GMT Go ahead and plonk Buck... remember who's at fault here. Jeff Buck Frobisher wrote: > too bad we never learn... > (plonk) > > -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 341244 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <1157057404.119324.305490@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Philco 48-150 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 00:35:04 -0400 Message-ID: Daniel, for the 90v you just stack standard 9v batteries. take a 9v batt clip and cut it in half to get the pos and neg connections on that. Wrap the batteries with electrical tape to hold together. On the filiment part, you need 1.5v, with more balls. So, make up a connection to any good sized 1.5v lantern battery, or whatever you can fit in the space allotted. 4 D cells in parallel would work too, but you'd have a harder time making that pack, since all the standard D cell holders run them in series. Mark Oppat "Daniel Russell" wrote in message news:1157057404.119324.305490@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > Hi group back again, > Working on a bettery operated Philco 48-150. The battery is missing but > radio looks to be intact. I have the riders for this radio and it looks > like it needs a 90V battery. The philco part number is p-60D-11L. I > know i will never find one, but if anyone knows what to maybee use as a > power supply to permanatly put in this it would be a big help. > Thanks > Dan > > Article: 341245 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <44f73c9d$0$4521$e4fe514c@news.xs4all.nl> Subject: Re: Unusual output stages Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 00:44:02 -0400 Message-ID: One that drove me nuts once was a moral reciever made by Minerva I think, and sold also under the Majestic brand around 1942....("mighty Monarch of the Air" not Grigsby Grunow). Anyways, it was designed to be battery powered or AC. So it had both a 3Q5 and a 25L6 IIRC. The power switch actuated one or the other... AND to make matters worse, the cathode of the 25L6 was biased by the filiment of the 3Q5 and I think as it became a driver tube in that mode. It was ingenius and goofy all the same, and I could never get it to work unless I added a cathode bias resistor, which I did and forgot about the whole thing. Mark Oppat wrote in message news:44f73c9d$0$4521$e4fe514c@news.xs4all.nl... > In a Dutch tube forum, there is a discussion about unusual output stages. > Most newer European tube radio's use EL84 (6BQ5), EL86 (6CW5), EL95 > (6DL5), ECL82 (6BM8), or ECL86 (6GW8) as output stages, or the 100mA > series string versions of above tubes, for example the UL84 (45B5). Some > more rare radio's use dual PL81 (21A6) for a transformerless balanced > output stage, also the ELL80 or the ECLL800 are used in a few radio's. In > the somewhat older european 4-tube concept, the EBL21 was often used. > Tubes like EL503 were developed when many radio's were already > transistorised, so I have never heard of a radio using that, and seldomly > its - in amplifiers still very popular - predecessor EL34 (6CA7). > > I know by reading this group of several common American output tubes > (35C5, 50C5, 6V6, 6L6, etc.) > > Have any of you ever encountered some unusual output configuration in a > radio, either European or American? > > -- > Met vriendelijke groet, > > Maarten Bakker. > Article: 341246 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <1156895028.393210.24220@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1157021368.944915.155970@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157083471.383301.40160@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Help on first Zenith 9-S-262 Restore - Dial Pointer? Springs? 6T5 Questions Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 00:49:50 -0400 Message-ID: <7a-dnXimqbhgJ2rZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@comcast.com> (sheesh) Ed, I have the full repro set of knobs for this radio too... Note to all, just send your full want lists here. I have most of what you want in stock even though its not yet on my site. Plus, I KNOW antique radio restoration, and will sell you the correct parts. Mark Oppat "KB9NLK" wrote in message news:1157083471.383301.40160@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Sounds good.... I just need the 26-151 for now... Thanks for the info! > > Anyone know what happened to www.gn4radios.com? I need to order a > whole set of knobes for this radio. Any other sources? I hope I can > find them somewhere..... > > Thanks, > > Ed > > KB9NLK > > Article: 341247 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: meanmrmustard Subject: Re: You are a sick one, DINIUS References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1156885253.582989.181800@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1156889071.984413.224350@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1156919925.389622.257500@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156943588.451209.162540@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156993046.820837.140760@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157029824.257494.181090@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157038393.055990.139460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1157041431.861570.309420@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <38EJg.942$d72.102@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <1157042463.671167.306540@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 04:50:52 GMT jim menning wrote: > "Steven" wrote in message > news:1157042463.671167.306540@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com... >> Completely impotent too. Not even capable of stalling me. >> >> Even if you weren't Anti-Dinius, I'l bet they feel very stupid about >> now. You should be quite upset with them. I feel remotely sorry for >> you. >> >> Okay, that was quick. Next. >> > > Again you are dragging my name into another thread because someone else is picking on > you. > > Go see your doctor already! > > jim menning > > Unfortunately, Dr. Mengele is dead. meanmrmustard Article: 341248 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "L." References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1156885253.582989.181800@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1156889071.984413.224350@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1156919925.389622.257500@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156943588.451209.162540@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1156993046.820837.140760@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157029824.257494.181090@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157038393.055990.139460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1157041431.861570.309420@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <38EJg.942$d72.102@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <1157042463.671167.306540@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: You are a sick one, DINIUS Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 00:56:49 -0400 Message-ID: <44f7bdc6$0$10209$ecde5a14@news.coretel.net> "meanmrmustard" wrote in message news:M_OJg.9263$4O4.6694@trnddc02... > jim menning wrote: >> "Steven" wrote in message >> news:1157042463.671167.306540@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com... >>> Completely impotent too. Not even capable of stalling me. >>> >>> Even if you weren't Anti-Dinius, I'l bet they feel very stupid about >>> now. You should be quite upset with them. I feel remotely sorry for >>> you. >>> >>> Okay, that was quick. Next. >>> >> >> Again you are dragging my name into another thread because someone else >> is picking on you. >> >> Go see your doctor already! >> >> jim menning > > Unfortunately, Dr. Mengele is dead. > > meanmrmustard Let's take up donations and send him to the "terrorists" in Iraq. He has lost his head already, so let them remove it "physically" so there won't be any more mistake about it. Then we'll be rid of him - their thirst for blood will be quenched once more. I just hope they use Haz Mat procedures to clean up when done so no one else is infected. Maybe he can give them head before they take his. L. Article: 341249 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Re: What Does the 12th Tube DO? Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 14:30:51 +0900 Message-ID: References: <12ff3rub6gne075@corp.supernews.com> -- Say no to institutionalized interference. Just say NO to HD/IBOC! "Hagstar" wrote in message news:12ff3rub6gne075@corp.supernews.com... > Look at this- > http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/422/M0013422.htm > > Notice the only difference between a 41-250 and a 41-300 is one added > loctal, a dual diode (note box on schematic lower right). BUT what does it > DO, if anything? > IT MAKES MY BRAIN HURT!!! The closest I can tell is they're using one tube for AGC and the other as the detector.. but it's the most incomprehensible use for and wiring of a tube I believe I've ever seen.. :-/ Article: 341250 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: Have you read about "DINIUS" and is it fatal? Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 00:25:25 -0500 Message-ID: <17727-44F7C445-457@storefull-3255.bay.webtv.net> References: <1157054228.885751.126420@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> I have two accounts,but I keep my computer account private. cuhulin Article: 341251 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: OT: Have you read about steorn? Date: 31 Aug 2006 22:50:23 -0700 Message-ID: <1157089823.343001.165550@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1157031726.108183.46300@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> jim menning wrote: > "Steven" wrote in message > news:1157069034.041083.20150@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com... > > > > Anti-Dinius wrote: > >> Steven wrote: > >> > > >> > Ah, but the dead cat had to be run over by the diesel FIRST! It's kind > >> > of futile unless you have a massacree. > >> > >> This isn't funny even if you don't like cats. It's just not funny. > > > > Have three I feed every day. > > > > The original reference wasn't funny either, sarcasm befit it. > > > > I've had three run over myself. > > He even drove his cats to commit suicide. > > jim menning Manor Way gets used as a chicane to the freeway exits 1/2 mile away quite often and there are about 100 apartments on the block including Riverside and Mills Manors. People race through here. It's not the best place for cats to roam. I can't make a comment that you don't already demonstrate by yourself, therefore I'm not going to bother. Article: 341252 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Subject changed to Jeff's convenient amnesia Date: 31 Aug 2006 23:09:42 -0700 Message-ID: <1157090982.257679.280340@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > Steven wrote: > > > You are a liar. The garbage started over four years ago with Jeff, and > > it's been a losing game of taking pot shots for you ever since. You can > > sit here believing your garbage forever and it doesn't solve anything. > > You lying piece of shit. This all started with YOU acting like a > complete asshole on this news group. > > Jeff This started with my being in an Australian radio group by invitation then the Afghan War broke out, leaving some very vicious people on the attack, then it spilled over here, I tried to protect the group from such crap...that got stressful quickly and somewhere I managed to mention I was on lithium. That's when you got vicious with the crazy Skippy stuff and there it went from then on. You are supposed to be a preacher or something ( you married off your daughter personally), yet you are absolutely filthy, a base, repugnant two faced opportunist. I take all your insults with a grain of salt. You are a far better repairman than a person. How much longer do you wish to clog the posts with this useless tirade? You are what, almost 55, 56? Angus--or Anger--still your decision 5 years later? You can work yourself into a cardiac arrest, yet I'm not exactly drooling like you fantasize I am. While I was gone, I cleaned the living room and replaced the blown drivers on a 3 way I traded for. All I've yet to do is wire the 3 amp, 6-8 channel system and finish placing stuff. The bedroom is done and the kitchen almost. I needed about 15 minutes to deal with a few pathetic whiners and I'm done. Article: 341253 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: You are a sick one, DINIUS Date: 31 Aug 2006 23:12:16 -0700 Message-ID: <1157091136.645902.143700@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> meanmrmustard IP address 71.160.254.152 (a Verizon customer) wrote: > jim menning wrote: > > "Steven" wrote in message > > news:1157042463.671167.306540@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com... > >> Completely impotent too. Not even capable of stalling me. > >> > >> Even if you weren't Anti-Dinius, I'l bet they feel very stupid about > >> now. You should be quite upset with them. I feel remotely sorry for > >> you. > >> > >> Okay, that was quick. Next. > >> > > > > Again you are dragging my name into another thread because someone else is picking on > > you. > > > > Go see your doctor already! > > > > jim menning > > > > > > Unfortunately, Dr. Mengele is dead. > > meanmrmustard Article: 341254 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Dinius again Date: 31 Aug 2006 23:15:34 -0700 Message-ID: <1157091334.390052.202630@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> jim menning wrote: > "Steven" wrote in message > news:1157053759.258200.65420@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... > > > > Michael A. Terrell wrote: > >> > > You don't even know my parents names much less the phone number. > > > > Put up or stop wasting peoples' time. > > > > You mean El**n Dinius @ (208) 465 - XX43 was wrong? I'll have to call and see. > > jim menning Yes, and I'll have to have a lawyer talk to TimeWarner Internet about it. Is it worth it to you? How far to hell are you going? Article: 341255 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: You are a sick one, DINIUS Date: 31 Aug 2006 23:25:28 -0700 Message-ID: <1157091928.863605.182400@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> L. wrote: > "meanmrmustard" wrote in message > news:M_OJg.9263$4O4.6694@trnddc02... > > jim menning wrote: > >> "Steven" wrote in message > >> news:1157042463.671167.306540@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com... > >>> Completely impotent too. Not even capable of stalling me. > >>> > >>> Even if you weren't Anti-Dinius, I'l bet they feel very stupid about > >>> now. You should be quite upset with them. I feel remotely sorry for > >>> you. > >>> > >>> Okay, that was quick. Next. > >>> > >> > >> Again you are dragging my name into another thread because someone else > >> is picking on you. > >> > >> Go see your doctor already! Abuse letter sent. > >> > >> jim menning > > > > Unfortunately, Dr. Mengele is dead. > > > > meanmrmustard > > Let's take up donations and send him to the "terrorists" in Iraq. He has > lost his head already, so let them remove it "physically" so there won't be > any more mistake about it. Then we'll be rid of him - their thirst for blood > will be quenched once more. I just hope they use Haz Mat procedures to clean > up when done so no one else is infected. > > Maybe he can give them head before they take his. > > L. Article: 341256 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Subject changed to more of Skippy's lies. Date: 31 Aug 2006 23:26:53 -0700 Message-ID: <1157092013.377074.10320@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > Go ahead and plonk Buck... remember who's at fault here. > > Jeff > > Buck Frobisher wrote: > > > too bad we never learn... > > (plonk) I'm replying to one of his posts right now. Article: 341257 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Dinius again Date: 31 Aug 2006 23:39:08 -0700 Message-ID: <1157092748.200133.98670@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Reported. jim menning wrote: Article: 341258 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Oh, BTW I won the signal generator Date: 31 Aug 2006 23:43:12 -0700 Message-ID: <1157092992.251113.15840@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Despite anybody. Article: 341259 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: OKAY, for the last time... Date: 31 Aug 2006 23:45:03 -0700 Message-ID: <1157093103.488209.235730@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: Registered User wrote: > It is your right to show yourself as an ass. I along with many others > really wish this would be the last time. You guys first. I can play Palestinian all day. Article: 341260 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Belleek Neptune cups and saucers for sale Date: 31 Aug 2006 23:50:46 -0700 Message-ID: <1157093446.104048.263680@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1157033709_5975@sp6iad.superfeed.net> Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > Anti-Dinius wrote: > > [ with reference to Skippy... ] > > > There's gotta be a group out there that fits your needs. > > I posted a couple of suggestions the other night. > > alt.suicide and alt.suicide.methods > > Jeff Be careful what you wish for. This message has been automatically generated in response to the creation of a trouble ticket regarding: "I am about to seek a lawyer concerning several person and your customer is one...", a summary of which appears below. There is no need to reply to this message right now. Your ticket has been assigned an ID of Somebody else is getting theirs. You have been mentioned in another person's. Article: 341261 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "gerryu21220@gmail.com" Subject: Re: Zenith Console Stereo SF2580 Date: 1 Sep 2006 02:26:32 -0700 Message-ID: <1157102792.759192.276860@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1157030569.718177.199610@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> gerryu21220@gmail.com wrote: > Bill Sheppard wrote: > > gerry: Sounds like the FM oscillator is quitting. Try the osc.-mixer > > tube in the FM front end. > > oc > > Um - okay. Which tube might that be? I hope it isn't a 6BC7, as that > is the one I don't have a replacement for. I'll bet it is, as that was > the only one I didn't swap out... Found that there was a substitute for that 6BC7: a 6GQ7. Naturally, I didn't have that one, either. I found a 6BC7 on eBay for $1.00 + $1.25 shipping. So I hope that clears up the problem. Article: 341262 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: 45 playing time? (was: Re: RCA automobile 45 changer?) Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 09:40:42 GMT Record speeds have been discussed here before. The original speed was around 80 rpm, give or take. It varied according to the record company. When electrical phonographs came into being they decided to set a standard for the motor speed, which was 78 rpm -- actually 78.26. The calculation comes from the poles of the motor, wheel ratios, and the 60 Hz line frequency. The 33 1/3 rpm speed was calculated in a similar manner, originally used for talkies for movies. RCA used this speed for a few records around 1930, then the speed was used for radio transcriptions, then later used by Columbia for the new LP format. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "John Byrns" wrote in message news:jbyrns-3108062038120001@216-80-74-177.s177.tnt1.chgo.il.dialup.rcn.com... > In article , glog@sympatico.ca > wrote: > >> Josh..... I see them occaisionly here in the Toronto area at flea >> markets, antique markets and the like. They did make on, and I put one >> in my 53 Roadmaster convertable. >> It wasn't a changer, but a single play unit and I believe it was called >> the RCA Ultra-Fi 45. >> >> Slide the 45 in, press the bar to lock and put the stylus to the >> record and music to go. They were really hard on the record though. >> Pressure had to be high to deal with the bumps of the road. >> >> There were two versions of the RCA, a single player aftermarket (I >> bought mine at Canadian Tire in 1958) and a large multi disc changer >> unit made specifically for Chrysler as a option. See: >> > http://ookworld.com/hiwayhifi.html >> >> also: >> > http://www.imperialclub.com/Yr/1960/RecordPlayer/index.htm > > The Chrysler brochure at the second link says that the capacity of the 45 > changer is 14 records, which will play for up to 2 hours automatically. > To achieve a total playing time of two hours from 14 sides, the average > playing time would have to be in excess of 8.5 minutes per side. The 45 > EPs in my collection typically run between 6 and 7 minutes per side, which > would give a playing time of only about 1.6 Hours for 14 sides. > > Does anyone know what the official maximum playing time per side is for a > 45 EP? I am sure they can be easily stretched to the 8 minutes and 34 > seconds per side required to get 2 hours of playing time from 14 sides, > but what was the maximum spec.? Somewhere around here I have a paper > which gives all the gory details that went into the design of the 45 RPM > record, but finding it would be a tall order, especially since I don't > remember what magazine or journal it appeared in. The main thing I > remember from the paper was that it contained a proof that 45 RPM was the > optimal rotational speed for the record. I don't remember what the givens > were, size was probably one, and playing time might have been another. > There were pages and pages of scientific calculations involved in > calculating the optimum rotational speed, as well as the other design > parameters. I will have to root around and see if I can locate the paper. > > This all makes me curious how the other two popular speeds, 78 RPM and 33 > and a third RPM were arrived at? Does anyone know? Were they essentially > just picked out of the air, or were there good reasons for their choice? > > > Regards, > > John Byrns > > > Surf my web pages at, http://users.rcn.com/jbyrns/ Article: 341263 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Carter-k8vt Subject: Re: What Does the 12th Tube DO? References: <12ff3rub6gne075@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 10:57:43 GMT Brenda Ann wrote: > IT MAKES MY BRAIN HURT!!! > > The closest I can tell is they're using one tube for AGC and the other as > the detector.. but it's the most incomprehensible use for and wiring of a > tube I believe I've ever seen.. :-/ Ah, but possibly we are overlooking the obvious. Maybe it's there... ...to increase the tube count. Remember when the early transistor radios came out and they bragged about the number of transistors it had---even though several of the "transistors" were actually used as nothing but diodes. Article: 341264 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Ken Subject: Pilot H-474 Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 08:42:44 -0400 Anyone ever work on one of these? It's a typical 3 band five tube plus eye with a monster mechanical pushbutton assembly. No info on the pushbutton asm. Ken Article: 341265 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Jeffrey Subject: Re: OT: Have you read about Hot Fuel? References: <21764-44F51020-858@storefull-3252.bay.webtv.net> <1156953166.084152.137670@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> <1157031726.108183.46300@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157035992.629811.208410@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 13:07:37 GMT toxcrusadr wrote: > > This reminded me - there has just been a story in the news about the > varying temperature of dispensed gasoline - and thus the density and > therefore, energy content per gallon. > > Gasoline expands and contracts with temperature just like water - only > more dramatically than water. Industry and the government agreed 100 > years ago that a gallon of gasoline was defined as a gallon at 60 > degrees - the average temperature of gas in underground tanks. Trouble > is, times have changed. The way (and the speed at which) gas is > stored, transported and sold means that you are often buying gas at a > higher temperature - which means you're getting less for the price of a > gallon. > > Full story: > http://www.kansascity.com/mld/kansascity/business/15370193.htm > > Part 2: Technology solution > http://www.kansascity.com/mld/kansascitystar/15376686.htm > > Tox Well, ahum ... Like so many news stories, this one is heavily biased toward glitz and false outrage. The story starts out telling how a trucker is p.o.'ed becase a gallon (231 cubic inches at 60 degrees F) of diesel fuel expands to "more than 235 cubic inches at 90 degrees". This in itself is an exaggeration - it really expands to more than 234 cubic inches. That's a 25% inaccuracy in the story's "facts" right at the top. But, worse, you have to read pretty far down in the story before you discover that although some fuel is indeed sold at 90 degrees, some is also sold at 30 degrees - and the nationwide average, determined by actual tests, is 65 degrees. Since a standard gallon is measured at 60 degrees, dispensing at 65 degrees doesn't change much. In fact, if you crank out the numbers, it amounts to about 3/4 of a cent for diesel fuel priced at $3 a gallon. Sure, it an inaccuracy, and the story implies strongly that it is a CONSPIRACY between Big Oil and Lawmakers. However, I strongly suspect that if the fuel dealers spent the billions to install temperature compensating pumps at all stations, then the real price of fuel would go down by 3/4 of a cent to reflect the different volume - and then would likely go up several cents to pay for the new pumps. Conspiracy theories are annoying at best. Especially in an old radio newsgroup. It seems to me we have more important things to worry about. Bill Article: 341266 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "DumpsterDiver" Subject: Lighten Up! Date: 1 Sep 2006 06:58:24 -0700 Message-ID: <1157119104.324888.254620@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> References: A (hopefully) useful, constructive suggestion: Some of the photos would benefit greatly from a bit of tweaking of the brightness / contrast. Unfortunately, most digital cameras seem to produce pix that show way too dark when viewed on computer screens / monitors. The detail is typically all there, but needs to be made visible by lightening up using your photo editing software. Same comment goes for most other sites I've visited, and most Ebay listings. DD Gary Tayman wrote: > While many of you are busy cleaning your benches and taking photos, I've > decided to start another thread. This one is not in the binaries, but on my > website. As promised long ago, I've set up a page devoted to my personal > radio collection. > > Compared to the thousands of valuable sets owned by some others on this > list, it's certainly not much. However I indeed enjoy it, and would like to > share it with others. > > You can go directly to the page by clicking here: > > http://mysite.verizon.net/caradio/collection.htm > > > > -- > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 341267 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mark Oppat" References: <12ff3rub6gne075@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: What Does the 12th Tube DO? Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 10:11:59 -0400 Message-ID: Carter wrote... >>>...to increase the tube count. > > Remember when the early transistor radios came out and they bragged > about the number of transistors it had---even though several of the > "transistors" were actually used as nothing but diodes. yeah, maybe but the cost of the tube and socket and stuff is still there, so I dont think manf'rs did that as much as collectors claim. Using triodes as diodes goes way back, as well. In fact, one of the first AA5's was the DeWald Dinette model 54. (1934). It used two #37 triodes as full wave rectifiers! Only had three tubes in the signal chain.. a two 39's and a 38 IIRC.(I have that set) Mark Oppat Article: 341268 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: amyotte@personainternet.com Subject: cabinet finish stripping question Date: 1 Sep 2006 07:09:46 -0700 Message-ID: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> I have been googling for days and don't think I have found my answer. I have a late 30's GE H70 radio cabinet that I have started stripping the finish off. Using a chemical stripper I have removed some of the finish. There was a couple of black stains in the top finish that after the stripping were still there. I brought the cabinet into work and asked a co-worked that does furniture refinishing what I could do to remove it. He felt the surface and said that there is still a waxy finish on there. He suggected amonia (Javex) to remove the stain and the waxy surface. I did use this with a #0000 steel wool and the stain did get removed and so did the waxy finish. I now have a very open grained top BUT there are a couple of areas that will not give up the waxy finish. My question - is this actually a wax type of finish that would have been applied before the color and final finish or was this some other treatment applied? What would be a more effective remover if this isn't a wax and I were not to use Javex? Thanks Brian Article: 341269 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: Subject changed to Jeff's convenient amnesia Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 09:24:39 -0500 Message-ID: <21267-44F842A7-267@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> References: <1157090982.257679.280340@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> I am not crazy about cats,but I leave them alone and they leave me alone.It is a mutual society between cats and I.I own a little Blue Heeler Australian Cattle Dog.(well really,she owns me) When she hooks up the dog leash on me and takes me out in the yard for a few minutes,when she sees a cat,she wants to run after the cat and play.She wouldn't hurt a cat for anything in the World. About a year ago,a cat was laying under I van.My doggy barked at the cat,but the cat didn't move,doggy did not try to physically attack the cat.I thought the cat was sick,I put my doggy in my house and when I went back outside,the cat had moved on elsewhere.I guess I like cats ok.They have a place in this World too. cuhulin Article: 341270 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: What Does the 12th Tube DO? Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 14:40:13 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <12ff3rub6gne075@corp.supernews.com> In "Mark Oppat" writes: >Using triodes as diodes goes way back, as well. Tangential to what you're talking about, my favorite example of this is where the diodes are rectifiers -- the Western Electric amplfier ("43"?) that used four 211 triodes, at least one of them connected as a diode rectifier. I believe it's been thought this was done so you only have to stock a single tube for replacement, which is indeed clever. I think perhaps it was done because 211's are =cool=. :) -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 341271 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Zenith Console Stereo SF2580 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 07:34:08 -0700 Message-ID: <24207-44F844E0-169@storefull-3175.bay.webtv.net> References: <1157102792.759192.276860@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> gerry: 6BC7 is a triple diode. Header address is a spam trap. E-mail: oldcoot88atwebtv.net Change 'at' to @ Article: 341272 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: Zenith Console Stereo SF2580 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 07:38:42 -0700 Message-ID: <24207-44F845F2-170@storefull-3175.bay.webtv.net> References: <1157102792.759192.276860@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> AAk ! Hit the 'send' key by mistake. 6BC7 is a triple diode, probably used in the detector area. You want the FM oscillator/mixer. Look in the 'front end' area near the tuning mechanism. oc Article: 341273 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Anti-Dinius" Subject: Re: Belleek Neptune cups and saucers for sale Date: 1 Sep 2006 08:39:08 -0700 Message-ID: <1157125148.226548.69340@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1157033709_5975@sp6iad.superfeed.net> Steven wrote: > "I am about to seek a lawyer concerning several person and your > customer is one...", Do lawyers accept food stamps? Article: 341274 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Anti-Dinius" Subject: Kooky, Kooky lend me your comb! Date: 1 Sep 2006 08:52:31 -0700 Message-ID: <1157125951.768706.256320@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> References: <1157033709_5975@sp6iad.superfeed.net> Steven wrote: > Be careful what you wish for. > > This message has been automatically generated in response to the > creation of a trouble ticket regarding: > "I am about to seek a lawyer concerning several person and your > customer is one...", > a summary of which appears below. > > There is no need to reply to this message right now. Your ticket has > been > assigned an ID of > > Somebody else is getting theirs. You have been mentioned in another > person's. It's almost if they've met Steven before: http://www.smbtech.com/lawsuit.html Article: 341275 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: Belleek Neptune cups and saucers for sale Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 11:15:36 -0500 Message-ID: <21267-44F85CA8-288@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> References: <1157125148.226548.69340@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Belleek,Ireland.I own a few Waterford Crystal thingys (because I am Scotch Irish,go figure.I have to go to Celtic Festival this month,go figure) but I dont use them,go figure. cuhulin Article: 341276 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: Belleek Neptune cups and saucers for sale Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 11:18:19 -0500 Message-ID: <21267-44F85D4B-289@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> References: <1157033709_5975@sp6iad.superfeed.net> I can buy Waterford Crystal from Ireland all day long at some stores here in the Jackson area. cuhulin Article: 341277 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "gerryu21220@gmail.com" Subject: Re: Zenith Console Stereo SF2580 Date: 1 Sep 2006 09:25:15 -0700 Message-ID: <1157127915.111742.240920@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1157102792.759192.276860@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Bill Sheppard wrote: > 6BC7 is a triple diode, probably used in the detector area. You want the > FM oscillator/mixer. Look in the 'front end' area near the tuning > mechanism. > oc What are a few common tube numbers for that? Article: 341278 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Phil Nelson" References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 09:33:54 -0700 Message-ID: <4IKdnaxhmZNl_WXZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@giganews.com> I have carefully applied chlorine bleach to a black stain to lighten it. Apply it only to the stain, not the surrounding area. I put it on sparingly, using a Q-tip or even a toothpick. The manufacturer would not have applied wax to bare wood before applying the rest of the finish. And I seriously doubt that wax would survive chemical stripping. Not sure what you have there, but if you can lighten the stain, that may not matter. After you fill the open grain and apply a few coats of new lacquer, it should all be smooth again. If the waxiness still bothers you, you could try a stronger solvent such as lacquer thinner. Since the cabinet is already stripped, that wouldn't harm the rest of the finish. Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios http://antiqueradio.org/index.html Article: 341279 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1157119104.324888.254620@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Lighten Up! Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 16:41:02 GMT When I took the photos they came out extremely yellow. I did a LOT of adjusting to brightness, contrast, color saturation, and other things, to get what you see. As time permits I'll post better photos. But I felt it better to finish it off with these, than wait another 10 years or so until every photo and graphic are perfect. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "DumpsterDiver" wrote in message news:1157119104.324888.254620@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com... >A (hopefully) useful, constructive suggestion: > > Some of the photos would benefit greatly from a bit of tweaking of the > brightness / contrast. > > Unfortunately, most digital cameras seem to produce pix that show way > too dark when viewed on computer screens / monitors. The detail is > typically all there, but needs to be made visible by lightening up > using your photo editing software. > > Same comment goes for most other sites I've visited, and most Ebay > listings. > > > DD > > > Gary Tayman wrote: >> While many of you are busy cleaning your benches and taking photos, I've >> decided to start another thread. This one is not in the binaries, but on >> my >> website. As promised long ago, I've set up a page devoted to my personal >> radio collection. >> >> Compared to the thousands of valuable sets owned by some others on this >> list, it's certainly not much. However I indeed enjoy it, and would like >> to >> share it with others. >> >> You can go directly to the page by clicking here: >> >> http://mysite.verizon.net/caradio/collection.htm >> >> >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com > Article: 341280 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: Belleek Neptune cups and saucers for sale Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 12:16:08 -0500 Message-ID: <1975-44F86AD8-480@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> References: <44F78282.4C5AEA26@earthlink.net> Somebody once forensic checked out a sprig of Napoleon Bonaparte's hair.It emerged (I am getting to where I like that term,it emerged,it has emerged) that he croaked from aresenic poisoning,the wallpaper and stuff.Long ago,some of them wimmins wore little thingys around their necks,it was arsenic,they would take a sip of it once in a while because it gave their faces that rosie glow.They didn't realize they were poisioning themselves. cuhulin ........................................................ And I held her while,,,,,,, Bonaparte's Retreatttttt,,,,,,,,, ....................................................... Article: 341281 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: Belleek Neptune cups and saucers for sale Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 12:20:11 -0500 Message-ID: <1977-44F86BCB-18@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> References: <1157072523.138149.143030@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Michael A. Terrell is A OK.Because I say so,,, that's why. cuhulin Article: 341282 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: What Does the 12th Tube DO? Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 12:24:51 -0500 Message-ID: <1975-44F86CE3-483@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> References: It just sits there and looks pretty.But not as pretty as that Mississippi College gal I saw in the Wal Mart parking lot a few days ago.Gosh,I want to adopt her. cuhulin Article: 341283 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 13:02:00 -0500 From: Bill Cohn Subject: Re: Zenith Console Stereo SF2580 References: <1157102792.759192.276860@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <24207-44F845F2-170@storefull-3175.bay.webtv.net> <1157127915.111742.240920@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Gerry, The tube you want to check is the 12AT7. There are two of them in the front end of this tuner one is used for both AM and FM and the other is used just for the FM side. Swap them and see what happens. It very likely the problem is not a tube but another problem in the chassis like bad capacitors or a bad IF transformer. Good Luck, Bill Cohn gerryu21220@gmail.com wrote: > Bill Sheppard wrote: > >> 6BC7 is a triple diode, probably used in the detector area. You want the >> FM oscillator/mixer. Look in the 'front end' area near the tuning >> mechanism. >> oc > > What are a few common tube numbers for that? > Article: 341284 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "toxcrusadr" Subject: Re: Lighten Up! Date: 1 Sep 2006 11:04:45 -0700 Message-ID: <1157133884.976496.42260@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: Gary Tayman wrote: > As time permits I'll post better photos. But I felt it better to finish it > off with these, than wait another 10 years or so until every photo and > graphic are perfect. Nice page Gary, I'd like to do that myself for my modest collection but haven't got a round tuit. Tox Article: 341285 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 13:18:13 -0500 From: jbyrns@rcn.com (John Byrns) Subject: Re: 45 playing time? (was: Re: RCA automobile 45 changer?) Message-ID: References: In article , "Gary Tayman" wrote: > Record speeds have been discussed here before. I don't remember any discussions here of the theoretical considerations that went into the choice of speeds, just various factors relating to standardization and practical implementation. > The original speed was around 80 rpm, give or take. It varied according to > the record company. When electrical phonographs came into being they > decided to set a standard for the motor speed, which was 78 rpm -- actually > 78.26. The calculation comes from the poles of the motor, wheel ratios, and > the 60 Hz line frequency. The question is, was the 80 RPM figure determined empirically, or was it the result of someone sitting down and going through the math to derive the optimal speed for a given set of product goals, as was the case with the RCA 45 RPM record? One aspect of this issue that has been discussed here before is how the exact speed of 78.26 RPM was eventually settled upon. The eventual choice of 78.26 RPM seems to have resulted from the use of 46 pole 60 Hz synchronous motors in early direct drive turntables. This seems to have been a US centric choice, which wouldn't work as well for the Europeans with their 50 Hz power systems, where something like 78.95 RPM would have been a more reasonable choice. Does anyone know what the standard speed for 78s was in Europe? > The 33 1/3 rpm speed was calculated in a similar manner, originally used for > talkies for movies. RCA used this speed for a few records around 1930, then > the speed was used for radio transcriptions, then later used by Columbia for > the new LP format. But again this doesn't explain how the actual choice of 33 and 1/3 RPM was originally made for the "talkies", was it an empirical choice, or did it result from analysis of the theoretical considerations? Certainly the extension of this speed first to Broadcast Transcriptions, and later to the Columbia LP must have been mostly the convenience of using an existing speed. I assume that CBS/Columbia picked this speed for the LP not because it was optimum for the microgrove LP in any sense, but because professional turntables already supported this speed, giving the format a leg up as it were. RCA seems to have been the only Company to pick the theoretically optimum speed for the format they were developing. Regards, John Byrns > "John Byrns" wrote in message > news:jbyrns-3108062038120001@216-80-74-177.s177.tnt1.chgo.il.dialup.rcn.com... > > In article , glog@sympatico.ca > > wrote: > > > >> Josh..... I see them occaisionly here in the Toronto area at flea > >> markets, antique markets and the like. They did make on, and I put one > >> in my 53 Roadmaster convertable. > >> It wasn't a changer, but a single play unit and I believe it was called > >> the RCA Ultra-Fi 45. > >> > >> Slide the 45 in, press the bar to lock and put the stylus to the > >> record and music to go. They were really hard on the record though. > >> Pressure had to be high to deal with the bumps of the road. > >> > >> There were two versions of the RCA, a single player aftermarket (I > >> bought mine at Canadian Tire in 1958) and a large multi disc changer > >> unit made specifically for Chrysler as a option. See: > >> > http://ookworld.com/hiwayhifi.html > >> > >> also: > >> > http://www.imperialclub.com/Yr/1960/RecordPlayer/index.htm > > > > The Chrysler brochure at the second link says that the capacity of the 45 > > changer is 14 records, which will play for up to 2 hours automatically. > > To achieve a total playing time of two hours from 14 sides, the average > > playing time would have to be in excess of 8.5 minutes per side. The 45 > > EPs in my collection typically run between 6 and 7 minutes per side, which > > would give a playing time of only about 1.6 Hours for 14 sides. > > > > Does anyone know what the official maximum playing time per side is for a > > 45 EP? I am sure they can be easily stretched to the 8 minutes and 34 > > seconds per side required to get 2 hours of playing time from 14 sides, > > but what was the maximum spec.? Somewhere around here I have a paper > > which gives all the gory details that went into the design of the 45 RPM > > record, but finding it would be a tall order, especially since I don't > > remember what magazine or journal it appeared in. The main thing I > > remember from the paper was that it contained a proof that 45 RPM was the > > optimal rotational speed for the record. I don't remember what the givens > > were, size was probably one, and playing time might have been another. > > There were pages and pages of scientific calculations involved in > > calculating the optimum rotational speed, as well as the other design > > parameters. I will have to root around and see if I can locate the paper. > > > > This all makes me curious how the other two popular speeds, 78 RPM and 33 > > and a third RPM were arrived at? Does anyone know? Were they essentially > > just picked out of the air, or were there good reasons for their choice? > > > > > > Regards, > > > > John Byrns > > > > > > Surf my web pages at, http://users.rcn.com/jbyrns/ Surf my web pages at, http://users.rcn.com/jbyrns/ Article: 341286 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 13:19:18 -0500 From: jbyrns@rcn.com (John Byrns) Subject: Re: CORRECTION- What Does the12th Tube Do? Message-ID: References: <12ff739kcrho84c@corp.supernews.com> In article <12ff739kcrho84c@corp.supernews.com>, "Hagstar" wrote: > Look at this dual schematic- > http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/422/M0013422.htm > > Notice the only difference between a 41-295 and a 41-300 is one added > loctal, a dual diode (note box on schematic lower right). BUT what does it > DO, if anything? That is a very good question which has been pondered here before with relation to a common connection of the second diode in many AA5 radios, where the second diode is tied between the AGC line and ground. The Philco in question effectively uses three diodes, as do many other radios. One diode is used as the 2nd detector to demodulate the audio, the second diode is used as the AGC rectifier, and the third or "mystery" is used as what some people call a "clamp" on the AGC line. There are a few radios out there which use a positive bias voltage in their delayed AGC circuit and require this sort of "clamp" diode, but that isn't the case with this Philco set which uses a negative voltage to delay the AGC. The purpose could have been to increase the tube count, but if that was the case why not simply use the two diodes of the duo diode tube for the detector and AGC rectifier, and leave the two diodes in the triode/duo diode tube unused, as was done in many other radios? In AA5 radios there are four different ways the second diode in the triode/duo diode tube is connected. First the second diode can be used as an AGC rectifier separate from the detector diode, which I believe was the way the tube designers intended it to be used. Second in radios that use a single diode as a combination detector and AGC rectifier there are three ways that the second diode can be connected. The second diode can be left unused by connecting it to the cathode, or it can be connected in parallel with the first diode used as the combination detector and AGC rectifier, again rendering it essentially unused. The final and perhaps most interesting, or at least "mysterious", connection of the second diode seen in AA5 radios is connecting the diode between the AGC line and ground in the same way as the third diode in this Philco radio is connected. In previous threads about this shunt connection of the second diode in AA5 radios, three suggestions as to the purpose of this connection have been put forward. The first suggestion was that it was a "clamp" used to prevent the AGC line from going positive. This doesn't make any sense to me because the AGC line in these radios normally has little incentive to go positive, at least in a properly operating example. The second suggestion was that the socket pin for the second diode was simply being used as a convenient and free tie point for the components of the AGC filter network. This is my favorite explanation in the case of the AA5, as I was the one to suggest it. This doesn't really make sense in the case of the Philco radio in question though, as you would hardly add a whole extra tube and socket to simply gain a tie point. The third and final suggestion was that it provides a small amount of extra negative bias on the AGC line as a result of its contact potential. If the purpose in the AA5 is not cost saving, then this is the only explanation that makes any sense to me. This would also apply to the Philco if the object wasn't simply to increase the tube count of the radio, and there are certainly easier ways to increase the tube count, such as simply ignoring the diodes in the duo diode/triode tube completely. It is interesting to compare the schematics of the model 41-300 with the schematic of the model 41-255, both of which use similar circuits and include the third "clamp" diode". Both radios use delayed AGC with a negative delay voltage and have separate AGC lines and filters for the mixer and for the 1st IF amplifier. The 41-300 places the extra "clamp" diode on the AGC line controlling the 1st IF amplifier, while the 41-255 places the extra "clamp" diode on the AGC line controlling the mixer tube. Why this difference when the two radios use other wise virtually identical RF/IF/Det circuits? My guess is that Philco included this extra tube simply to differentiate two similar models, 41-295 vs. 41-300 and 41 250 vs. 41-255 as examples, by giving one a slightly higher tube count, without the expense of engineering a completely different chassis. These radios are also interesting in that they use two IF stages, and a triode mixer without a preceding RF amplifier stage. Regards, John Byrns Surf my web pages at, http://users.rcn.com/jbyrns/ Article: 341287 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: 45 playing time? (was: Re: RCA automobile 45 changer?) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 18:53:09 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: In jbyrns@rcn.com (John Byrns) writes: >RCA seems to have been the only Company to pick the theoretically optimum >speed for the format they were developing. "Optimum" in what sense? The absolute best fidelity? The lowest price? The smallest size? Often it means the best price-to-performance ratio, but this opens up even more questions. I think what often happens is the price is fixed, and performance falls where it will. Performance in this case also needs to be defined. Signal to noise ratio? Durability? Playing time? Ease of use? Mechanical stability under temperature extremes? My guess is that groove width had been set more-or-less empirically, given the record materials they had to work with, which had also been developed by trial-and-error while discovering what could be mass produced. I'd also guess the diameter was chosen for marketing reasons, such as storage space and ease of handling. For a desired recording length, which would be based on the duration of the music, the only math left would be to calculate the maximum rotations per minute. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 341288 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Phil Nelson" References: <44f7526f$0$8951$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> Subject: Re: Nice find, I think...... Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 12:03:38 -0700 Message-ID: For $20, I'd call that a steal. Good score! Regarding 6X5 rectifiers, if you search the Google archives of this group at the following URL, you'll find much wisdom about these tubes and how to deal with them. Search for something like "6X5 rectifier." http://groups.google.com/group/rec.antiques.radio+phono?hl=en Regards, Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios http://antiqueradio.org/index.html Article: 341289 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Carter-k8vt Subject: Re: What Does the 12th Tube DO? References: <12ff3rub6gne075@corp.supernews.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 19:05:46 GMT Mark Oppat wrote: > Using triodes as diodes goes way back, as well. The Western Electric Model 25A amplifier (from the mid 20s) used two 205 triodes, one of which was connected as a rectifier. Article: 341290 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Blacksmith Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 15:31:40 -0400 Message-ID: <3e2hf2l8vmo6gp8h6ap241ht78l4firqat@4ax.com> References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> On 1 Sep 2006 07:09:46 -0700, amyotte@personainternet.com wrote: >I have been googling for days and don't think I have found my answer. > >I have a late 30's GE H70 radio cabinet that I have started stripping >the finish off. Using a chemical stripper I have removed some of the >finish. There was a couple of black stains in the top finish that >after the stripping were still there. I brought the cabinet into work >and asked a co-worked that does furniture refinishing what I could do >to remove it. He felt the surface and said that there is still a waxy >finish on there. He suggected amonia (Javex) to remove the stain and >the waxy surface. I did use this with a #0000 steel wool and the stain >did get removed and so did the waxy finish. I now have a very open >grained top BUT there are a couple of areas that will not give up the >waxy finish. > >My question - is this actually a wax type of finish that would have >been applied before the color and final finish or was this some other >treatment applied? > >What would be a more effective remover if this isn't a wax and I were >not to use Javex? > >Thanks >Brian Buy a cabinet scraper, read the directions on how to sharpen it and use it. Try scraping the finish off of an old board until you get used to it. Then scrape the whole top of the cabinet, assuming that that top in not a curved top. You should be able to easily scrape the stained/waxy area clean. If you end up scratching the surface with a corner, then you'll have to sand it, otherwise you shouldn't have to sand it as the scraper will give you a smoother finish than sandpaper can. Then use a wood filler to fill the pores of the wood before you apply any finish. Blacksmith wwwdotrenovatedradiosdotcom Article: 341291 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Stephanie Weil" Subject: Re: OT: Have you read about steorn? Date: 1 Sep 2006 12:50:55 -0700 Message-ID: <1157140255.852288.125330@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1157031726.108183.46300@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Ten minutes of my life that I will never get back. WAHHHH!!!!! *cries in the corner* -- steph Article: 341292 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lee Subject: Re: Lighten Up! Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 16:29:04 -0400 Message-ID: References: <1157119104.324888.254620@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> <1157133884.976496.42260@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> toxcrusadr wrote: > Gary Tayman wrote: > >> As time permits I'll post better photos. But I felt it better to finish it >> off with these, than wait another 10 years or so until every photo and >> graphic are perfect. > > Nice page Gary, I'd like to do that myself for my modest collection but > haven't got a round tuit. > > Tox > Tox...... not an excuse for you anymore! http://www.frog.co.nz/tuit.jpg Regards Lee Article: 341293 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: My Personal Radio Collection Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 16:12:51 -0500 Message-ID: <24427-44F8A253-529@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> References: Gary,that is a nice website you have there and some great radios too.That Atwater Kent speaker at the top left on your website,I own an Atwater Kent speaker exactly like that one.I paid forty five dollars for it at the old Flowers Flea Market about fifteen years ago.Another old speaker I own is a Zeinith hexagon speaker.The cloth grill on it has a vase of flowers on it. cuhulin Article: 341294 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: My Personal Radio Collection Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 16:16:56 -0500 Message-ID: <24427-44F8A348-530@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> References: Not to be leaving anybody out,,, Dave,that is a nice website and some great radios you have there too. cuhulin Article: 341295 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: OT: Have you read about steorn? Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 16:27:55 -0500 Message-ID: <24427-44F8A5DB-532@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> References: <1157140255.852288.125330@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Was it that bad? cuhulin Article: 341296 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: cuhulin@webtv.net Subject: Re: What Does the 12th Tube DO? Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 16:38:20 -0500 Message-ID: <24427-44F8A84C-533@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> References: I have a 1941 (I was born in 1941 too and the old ex U.S.Post Office drop box/sidewalk mail box on my front porch next to my old Chattanooga Leo 3 Railroad Caboose heater,my mail box has the date 1941 on it) Allied Radio catalog,catalog is in good condition.Some of the radio ads in my catalog brag (Fort Bragg is Bragging everyday) about how many tubes they have. cuhulin Article: 341297 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <3e2hf2l8vmo6gp8h6ap241ht78l4firqat@4ax.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 17:11:00 -0500 Blacksmith wrote: > On 1 Sep 2006 07:09:46 -0700, amyotte@personainternet.com wrote: > >> I have been googling for days and don't think I have found my answer. >> >> I have a late 30's GE H70 radio cabinet that I have started stripping >> the finish off. Using a chemical stripper I have removed some of the >> finish. There was a couple of black stains in the top finish that >> after the stripping were still there. I brought the cabinet into work >> and asked a co-worked that does furniture refinishing what I could do >> to remove it. He felt the surface and said that there is still a waxy >> finish on there. He suggected amonia (Javex) to remove the stain and >> the waxy surface. I did use this with a #0000 steel wool and the stain >> did get removed and so did the waxy finish. I now have a very open >> grained top BUT there are a couple of areas that will not give up the >> waxy finish. >> >> My question - is this actually a wax type of finish that would have >> been applied before the color and final finish or was this some other >> treatment applied? >> >> What would be a more effective remover if this isn't a wax and I were >> not to use Javex? >> >> Thanks >> Brian > > Buy a cabinet scraper, read the directions on how to sharpen it and > use it. Try scraping the finish off of an old board until you get used > to it. Then scrape the whole top of the cabinet, assuming that that > top in not a curved top. You should be able to easily scrape the > stained/waxy area clean. If you end up scratching the surface with a > corner, then you'll have to sand it, otherwise you shouldn't have to > sand it as the scraper will give you a smoother finish than sandpaper > can. > > Then use a wood filler to fill the pores of the wood before you apply > any finish. > Blacksmith > wwwdotrenovatedradiosdotcom > I've used scrapers before in a luthiers shop; but I haven't been able to source one locally for myself. Do you have a source? jak Article: 341298 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: amyotte@personainternet.com Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: 1 Sep 2006 15:39:01 -0700 Message-ID: <1157150341.585030.118970@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> > If the waxiness still bothers you, you could try a stronger solvent such as > lacquer thinner. Since the cabinet is already stripped, that wouldn't harm > the rest of the finish. > I used the lacquer thinner and it did strip the finish off the rest of the cabinet very nicely. I was surprised how quickly it work. Unfortunately it did not touch the smooth shiney waxy feeling spots on the top. Brian Article: 341299 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oidar@nexicom.net Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: 1 Sep 2006 15:53:27 -0700 Message-ID: <1157151207.222510.119060@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> jakdedert wrote: > > > I've used scrapers before in a luthiers shop; but I haven't been able to > source one locally for myself. Do you have a source? > > jak Try www.leevalley.com They are both sides of the border and have a good selection of scrapers and related tools. Ed. Article: 341300 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Phil S." Subject: Philco 32-8748 Choke spec? Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 18:57:54 -0400 Message-ID: Anyone out there who can tell me what the spec is on this choke? I don't have an LC bridge. It meters at 53 ohms. Has a decent heft to it. It came with a Philco 32-8469 power transformer.. I was able to find a Stancor xref for the PT, but can't find the choke. Appreciate your help. Thanks. Phil Article: 341301 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 23:07:33 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <4IKdnaxhmZNl_WXZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@giganews.com> <1157150341.585030.118970@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> In <1157150341.585030.118970@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> amyotte@personainternet.com writes: >I used the lacquer thinner and it did strip the finish off the rest of >the cabinet very nicely. I was surprised how quickly it work. >Unfortunately it did not touch the smooth shiney waxy feeling spots on >the top. I'm not the right person to be saying this because I don't do cabinet work, but are you sure what you're feeling isn't just extremely smooth wood? By "waxy" do you mean tacky, or glass-like? -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 341302 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: jakdedert Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <3e2hf2l8vmo6gp8h6ap241ht78l4firqat@4ax.com> <1157151207.222510.119060@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 18:11:22 -0500 oidar@nexicom.net wrote: > jakdedert wrote: >> I've used scrapers before in a luthiers shop; but I haven't been able to >> source one locally for myself. Do you have a source? >> >> jak > > Try www.leevalley.com They are both sides of the border and have a > good selection of scrapers and related tools. > > Ed. > > is exactly what I was looking for. At every hardware store I've asked, they point me to the Red Devil paint scrapers. Ouch! Not good.... Anyone not hip to these simple, inexpensive tools would do well to purchase one and try it...the fastest--most gentle--way to take large amounts of finish off flat surfaces, IMO. MUCH better than sanding or chemical stripping. Thanks, jak Article: 341303 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: amyotte@personainternet.com Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: 1 Sep 2006 16:12:25 -0700 Message-ID: <1157152345.408487.191540@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> By "waxy" do you mean tacky, or glass-like? > It is glass like. Brian Article: 341304 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 23:18:07 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <4IKdnaxhmZNl_WXZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@giganews.com> <1157150341.585030.118970@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157152345.408487.191540@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> In <1157152345.408487.191540@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> amyotte@personainternet.com writes: >It is glass like. The reason I asked is I've felt wood sanded so smooth it almost doesn't feel like wood. I'm wondering if this is what you're feeling. But, again, I'm not the best person to weigh in on cabinet work. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 341305 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Phil Nelson" References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <4IKdnaxhmZNl_WXZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@giganews.com> <1157150341.585030.118970@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157152345.408487.191540@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 17:15:07 -0700 Message-ID: <_Nednbg19fqKUGXZnZ2dnUVZ_vCdnZ2d@giganews.com> Good point, Tim. If the surface is simply smooth, not waxy (i.e., tacky or gummy), I'd declare victory and forget about further treatment apart from bleaching the dark area. In the process of filling the grain pores and applying a new finish, you will be making the rest of the cabinet smooth to match. I'm not sure that scraping alone would solve your problem, since some dark marks, such as water stains or burns, actually penetrate into the wood. You don't want to carve out a depression or sand down the entire surface by a huge amount if simple bleaching would lighten the stain surface. In any case, you risk nothing by trying some bleach first. You can always scrape and sand later. Note that, after removing the dark mark (by whatever means), you will be applying new toning lacquer to make the cabinet brown again. Very slight color differences will be masked by the toning lacquer. It doesn't have to be perfect-perfect-perfect, in other words, just close enough to pass the "walk-by" test after color is applied. Regards, Phil Nelson Article: 341306 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: norml Subject: Re: 45 playing time? (was: Re: RCA automobile 45 changer?) Message-ID: References: Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2006 00:21:32 GMT jbyrns@rcn.com (John Byrns) wrotf: >But again this doesn't explain how the actual choice of 33 and 1/3 RPM was >originally made for the "talkies", was it an empirical choice, or did it >result from analysis of the theoretical considerations? Certainly the >extension of this speed first to Broadcast Transcriptions, and later to >the Columbia LP must have been mostly the convenience of using an existing >speed. I assume that CBS/Columbia picked this speed for the LP not >because it was optimum for the microgrove LP in any sense, but because >professional turntables already supported this speed, giving the format a >leg up as it were. What I have heard is that, when the W.E. engineers were cobbling up their movie sound system, they called around to New York theaters and asked projectionists what speed the films were running at. (In the silent days projectors had variable speeds and different theaters had different speeds, at different times, for different reasons. The conductor's desk from the S.F. Fox had a little dial that told the orchestra conductor what speed the film was running at so he could adjust tempos accordingly.) The consensus was that 24 f.p.s. was nominal. The W.E. engineers then calculated that a 16" disc carrying the standard 3 mil. groove and revolving at 35 rpm, could carry the sound, in adequate fidelity, for an entire reel of film. They rummaged around in their junk box of gears and found an off-the-shelf combination that would conveniently drive a turntable, from a projector running at the chosen speed, at 33 1/3 rpm. Close enough. I don't know if this is a true story, but it IS a great story. Norm Article: 341307 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 20:32:15 -0400 Message-ID: <12fhk8s4ur7tn7b@corp.supernews.com> References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <4IKdnaxhmZNl_WXZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@giganews.com> <1157150341.585030.118970@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157152345.408487.191540@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <_Nednbg19fqKUGXZnZ2dnUVZ_vCdnZ2d@giganews.com> I fear these areas are silicone contaminated from furniture polish of ages past. A couple of light coats of thinned shellac should seal them against problems and is highly recommended in any case. John H. Article: 341308 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "nesesu" Subject: Re: CORRECTION- What Does the12th Tube Do? Date: 1 Sep 2006 17:42:20 -0700 Message-ID: <1157157740.091132.86600@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <12ff739kcrho84c@corp.supernews.com> John, one comment I can make in the 'mystery' diode is that I worked on a set that ran until I pulled the 6E5, to see why it glowed but the shadow would not move. and then the set stopped dead. Some investigation showed that the AGC line was several volts positive, driving the IF tube to saturation. It turned out the 6E5 grid was acting as a diode and holding the AGC line just a bit positive and allowing the IF to run 'wide open'. The fault turned out to be a gassy 6SA7 putting out a large positive voltage from it's grid onto the AGC. There is a slight possibility that was the intended reason for a diode there, but I cannot see why they would bother. Neil S. John Byrns wrote: > In article <12ff739kcrho84c@corp.supernews.com>, "Hagstar" > wrote: > > > Look at this dual schematic- > > http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/422/M0013422.htm > > > > Notice the only difference between a 41-295 and a 41-300 is one added > > loctal, a dual diode (note box on schematic lower right). BUT what does it > > DO, if anything? > > > That is a very good question which has been pondered here before with > relation to a common connection of the second diode in many AA5 radios, > where the second diode is tied between the AGC line and ground. > > The Philco in question effectively uses three diodes, as do many other > radios. One diode is used as the 2nd detector to demodulate the audio, > the second diode is used as the AGC rectifier, and the third or "mystery" > is used as what some people call a "clamp" on the AGC line. There are a > few radios out there which use a positive bias voltage in their delayed > AGC circuit and require this sort of "clamp" diode, but that isn't the > case with this Philco set which uses a negative voltage to delay the AGC. > The purpose could have been to increase the tube count, but if that was > the case why not simply use the two diodes of the duo diode tube for the > detector and AGC rectifier, and leave the two diodes in the triode/duo > diode tube unused, as was done in many other radios? > > In AA5 radios there are four different ways the second diode in the > triode/duo diode tube is connected. First the second diode can be used as > an AGC rectifier separate from the detector diode, which I believe was the > way the tube designers intended it to be used. Second in radios that use > a single diode as a combination detector and AGC rectifier there are three > ways that the second diode can be connected. The second diode can be left > unused by connecting it to the cathode, or it can be connected in parallel > with the first diode used as the combination detector and AGC rectifier, > again rendering it essentially unused. The final and perhaps most > interesting, or at least "mysterious", connection of the second diode seen > in AA5 radios is connecting the diode between the AGC line and ground in > the same way as the third diode in this Philco radio is connected. > > In previous threads about this shunt connection of the second diode in AA5 > radios, three suggestions as to the purpose of this connection have been > put forward. The first suggestion was that it was a "clamp" used to > prevent the AGC line from going positive. This doesn't make any sense to > me because the AGC line in these radios normally has little incentive to > go positive, at least in a properly operating example. The second > suggestion was that the socket pin for the second diode was simply being > used as a convenient and free tie point for the components of the AGC > filter network. This is my favorite explanation in the case of the AA5, > as I was the one to suggest it. This doesn't really make sense in the > case of the Philco radio in question though, as you would hardly add a > whole extra tube and socket to simply gain a tie point. The third and > final suggestion was that it provides a small amount of extra negative > bias on the AGC line as a result of its contact potential. If the purpose > in the AA5 is not cost saving, then this is the only explanation that > makes any sense to me. This would also apply to the Philco if the object > wasn't simply to increase the tube count of the radio, and there are > certainly easier ways to increase the tube count, such as simply ignoring > the diodes in the duo diode/triode tube completely. > > It is interesting to compare the schematics of the model 41-300 with the > schematic of the model 41-255, both of which use similar circuits and > include the third "clamp" diode". Both radios use delayed AGC with a > negative delay voltage and have separate AGC lines and filters for the > mixer and for the 1st IF amplifier. The 41-300 places the extra "clamp" > diode on the AGC line controlling the 1st IF amplifier, while the 41-255 > places the extra "clamp" diode on the AGC line controlling the mixer > tube. Why this difference when the two radios use other wise virtually > identical RF/IF/Det circuits? > > My guess is that Philco included this extra tube simply to differentiate > two similar models, 41-295 vs. 41-300 and 41 250 vs. 41-255 as examples, > by giving one a slightly higher tube count, without the expense of > engineering a completely different chassis. > > These radios are also interesting in that they use two IF stages, and a > triode mixer without a preceding RF amplifier stage. > > > Regards, > > John Byrns > > > Surf my web pages at, http://users.rcn.com/jbyrns/ Article: 341309 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 21:19:23 -0400 Message-ID: <12fhn18a14sl267@corp.supernews.com> References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <4IKdnaxhmZNl_WXZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@giganews.com> <1157150341.585030.118970@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157152345.408487.191540@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "Tim Mullen" wrote in message news:edaf3f$h25$1@reader2.panix.com... > In <1157152345.408487.191540@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> > amyotte@personainternet.com writes: > >>It is glass like. > > The reason I asked is I've felt wood sanded so smooth it almost > doesn't feel like wood. Yes, this a common mistake made by folks who don't understand film finishes like lacquer. Even the most expensive furniture makers never sand bare wood beyond 220 grit to insure enough "tooth" for the lacquer or vanish to adhere well. The scratches are completely filled by the finish. Sanding wood to 400 grit or better is only for oil or wax non-film finishes.Also it is correct between coats. John H. Article: 341310 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <12ff739kcrho84c@corp.supernews.com> <1157157740.091132.86600@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: CORRECTION- What Does the12th Tube Do? Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 20:46:06 -0500 Message-ID: <44f8d54e$0$19636$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> "nesesu" wrote in message news:1157157740.091132.86600@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com... > Some investigation showed that the AGC line was several volts positive, > driving the IF tube to saturation. It turned out the 6E5 grid was > acting as a diode and holding the AGC line just a bit positive and > allowing the IF to run 'wide open'. The fault turned out to be a gassy > 6SA7 putting out a large positive voltage from it's grid onto the AGC. > There is a slight possibility that was the intended reason for a diode > there, but I cannot see why they would bother. No, that probably is the reason. There are sets out there which have an extra tube known as a "gas gate" whose sole purpose in life is to keep the AGC line from going positive due to a gassy tube. There a discussion here: http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=59628 It's also been discussed here before, search Google Groups archives for "gas gate". -p. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Article: 341311 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "KB9NLK" Subject: Montgomery Ward Airline 62-188 Console Questions Date: 1 Sep 2006 19:25:58 -0700 Message-ID: <1157163958.721264.248010@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> I am working on a Montgomery Ward Airline console. The model is a 62-188.... Two things I am working on figuring out are: 1.) There are two small dark black/brown bakelite type switches in the middle of the radio under the dial. They are stacked on top of one another and are vertical in relation to the radio. They just seem to rotate all the way around with no stops. The to wires on each one have been cut by someone and I cannot for the life of me figure out what they were for or where they are supposed to hook up to looking at the schematic. I am sure I am missing something, but I have only seen 1 picture of this model and it did not have 2 items that mine does. 1 is the eye tube an the other are these switch thingies.... 2.) I am looking for the tuning knob and the volume control knob. I have the two on the left, but need the two on the right basically..... Thanks for any help! Ed KB9NLK Article: 341312 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: amyotte@personainternet.com Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: 1 Sep 2006 19:30:22 -0700 Message-ID: <1157164222.648478.152780@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Phil Nelson wrote: > Good point, Tim. > > If the surface is simply smooth, not waxy (i.e., tacky or gummy), I'd > declare victory and forget about further treatment apart from bleaching the > dark area. In the process of filling the grain pores and applying a new > finish, you will be making the rest of the cabinet smooth to match. > > I'm not sure that scraping alone would solve your problem, since some dark > marks, such as water stains or burns, actually penetrate into the wood. You > don't want to carve out a depression or sand down the entire surface by a > huge amount if simple bleaching would lighten the stain surface. In any > case, you risk nothing by trying some bleach first. You can always scrape > and sand later. > > Note that, after removing the dark mark (by whatever means), you will be > applying new toning lacquer to make the cabinet brown again. Very slight > color differences will be masked by the toning lacquer. It doesn't have to > be perfect-perfect-perfect, in other words, just close enough to pass the > "walk-by" test after color is applied. > > Regards, > > Phil Nelson Bleach (Javex) doesn't touch it. Maybe with the 0000 steel wool I have been using I may have polish the wood. The caps came in yesterday for this radio and my RCA 8K-1 and we have a wet weekend coming up so I get to play :) Brian Article: 341313 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: amyotte@personainternet.com Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: 1 Sep 2006 19:38:39 -0700 Message-ID: <1157164719.184041.304800@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Hagstar wrote: > "Tim Mullen" wrote in message > news:edaf3f$h25$1@reader2.panix.com... > > In <1157152345.408487.191540@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> > > amyotte@personainternet.com writes: > > > >>It is glass like. > > > > The reason I asked is I've felt wood sanded so smooth it almost > > doesn't feel like wood. > > Yes, this a common mistake made by folks who don't understand film finishes > like lacquer. Even the most expensive furniture makers never sand bare wood > beyond 220 grit to insure enough "tooth" for the lacquer or vanish to adhere > well. The scratches are completely filled by the finish. > > Sanding wood to 400 grit or better is only for oil or wax non-film > finishes.Also it is correct between coats. > > John H. Thanks John Good point about the sanding grit. And I do not know about lacquer finishes. Brian Article: 341314 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Engineer" Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: 1 Sep 2006 20:13:18 -0700 Message-ID: <1157166798.889504.99880@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com> References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> Hagstar wrote: (snip) > Sanding wood to 400 grit or better is only for oil or wax non-film > finishes. (snip) > John H. Quite right, John. One extra point: if you do sand down to 400 for an oil finish, DO NOT touch the wood with bare hands - the sweat leaves a mark in the finish. Wear cotton gloves for the last sanding and 0000 "wooling" BTW, walnut then looks "silver grey", hardly a wood colour at all. Cheers, Roger Article: 341315 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: amyotte@personainternet.com Subject: What's the MOST desirable radio Date: 1 Sep 2006 20:23:57 -0700 Message-ID: <1157167437.213275.15810@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> If there is such a thing... What radio would be on anyones want list? Brian Article: 341316 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <1157167437.213275.15810@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: What's the MOST desirable radio Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 22:33:44 -0500 Message-ID: <44f8ee80$0$19702$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> wrote in message news:1157167437.213275.15810@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com... > What radio would be on anyones want list? Too open-ended a question. We all collect different things; what appeals to one won't appeal to another. The universe of "antique radio" is way too big for anybody to be interested in all of them. As far as I know, the most expensive radio that is immediately identifiable to non-collectors as a radio is the 1935 Zenith 1000Z Stratosphere of which average examples will sell in mid-five-figure prices. But not everybody wants one. JM2c -p. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Article: 341317 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "L." References: <1157033709_5975@sp6iad.superfeed.net> <1157035326.253868.117300@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1157039644.182523.4680@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1157040123.551177.315660@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157066897.457031.196900@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157071833.581876.217240@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1157072640.169625.131930@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1157093446.104048.263680@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1157125148.226548.69340@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Belleek Neptune cups and saucers for sale Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 00:14:36 -0400 Message-ID: <44f90522$0$10193$ecde5a14@news.coretel.net> "Anti-Dinius" wrote in message news:1157125148.226548.69340@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com... > > Steven wrote: >> "I am about to seek a lawyer concerning several person and your >> customer is one...", > > Do lawyers accept food stamps? > Most legal aid attorneys don't "sue" for monetary damages either. If you can't prove a case without doubt, meaning YOU haven't provoked it in some way - LOTS OF LUCK - SKIPPY! The answer is simple - quit drawing attention to yourself and all will stop! L. Article: 341318 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Hagstar" Subject: Re: What's the MOST desirable radio Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 00:26:33 -0400 Message-ID: <12fi1vqk4mshd6a@corp.supernews.com> References: <1157167437.213275.15810@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> A 12 tube Walton's at a yard sale. John H. Article: 341319 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 00:45:11 -0400 Message-ID: <12fi32nthri7844@news.supernews.com> References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <4IKdnaxhmZNl_WXZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@giganews.com> <1157150341.585030.118970@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157152345.408487.191540@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <_Nednbg19fqKUGXZnZ2dnUVZ_vCdnZ2d@giganews.com> <1157164222.648478.152780@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> wrote in message news:1157164222.648478.152780@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > > Bleach (Javex) doesn't touch it. Maybe with the 0000 steel wool I have > been using I may have polish the wood. > > The caps came in yesterday for this radio and my RCA 8K-1 and we have a > wet weekend coming up so I get to play :) > > Brian > Any chance you can try posting a few pictures, close-ups of the are you are concerned with, plus a sampling of the adjacent wood to compare? You can post them on NEWS:alt.binaries.pictures.radio Article: 341320 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" Subject: Re: cabinet finish stripping question Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 00:48:19 -0400 Message-ID: <12fi38jdvg3ehb2@news.supernews.com> References: <1157119786.600582.48110@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <4IKdnaxhmZNl_WXZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@giganews.com> <1157150341.585030.118970@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1157152345.408487.191540@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <12fhn18a14sl267@corp.supernews.com> <1157164719.184041.304800@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> wrote in message news:1157164719.184041.304800@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com... > Good point about the sanding grit. And I do not know about lacquer > finishes. > > Brian Have you ever sprayed lacquer? Toner (tinted lacquer, usually sprayed) is how they got those great finishes from often unevenly grained wood. I've never done it, but it certainly is easy to spot, and looks fabulously authentic. Article: 341321 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" Subject: Re: What's the MOST desirable radio Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 00:49:53 -0400 Message-ID: <12fi3bhgs2uffe4@news.supernews.com> References: <1157167437.213275.15810@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <12fi1vqk4mshd6a@corp.supernews.com> "Hagstar" wrote in message news:12fi1vqk4mshd6a@corp.supernews.com... > A 12 tube Walton's at a yard sale. > > John H. That your wife found for you for $50 Can we talk win-win? Article: 341322 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Test Equipment From: Paul Message-ID: Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2006 05:49:46 GMT Need some advice, I have a good multimeter, but am thinking of getting a signal generator, is the one AES sells for around $150 a good deal or is there a cheaper alternative? Or which other gear would you recommend for a newbie? Paul Article: 341323 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: What's the MOST desirable radio Date: 1 Sep 2006 23:09:09 -0700 Message-ID: <1157177349.544468.280960@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1157167437.213275.15810@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Depends on which most desirable radio you're talking about. Article: 341324 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: Subject: Re: Test Equipment Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 01:19:16 -0500 Message-ID: <44f91555$0$19611$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> "Paul" wrote in message news:Xns9831F26C37EAFnospamallnet@24.70.95.211... > Need some advice, I have a good multimeter, but am thinking of getting a > signal generator, is the one AES sells for around $150 a good deal > or is there a cheaper alternative? > > Or which other gear would you recommend for a newbie? I think it's too much unless you really feel that you must have new equipment. '50s vintage signal generators are widely available for $20 or less and will generally work fine after a recap (not that difficult for most generators.) Look for an Eico or Heathkit for easiest access to manuals and service information. Hewlett-Packard generators work better but can be a bit intimidating for someone new to electronics and are big, heavy and expensive to ship if you don't find one locally. Problem is these inexpensive service-grade tools are not that accurate. Calibrate it against a digital AM radio with PLL tuning until you feel like buying a frequency counter. This will teach you how: http://www.radioremembered.org/tips.htm#sigcal If you have this, a multimeter and a good soldering tool (and the usual selection of hand tools and a well lit bench to work on) you're ready to start working on radios. You can keep buying equipment as your budget, knowledge and inclination allow. G/L -p. -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Article: 341325 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Subject changed to more of Skippy's lies. Date: 1 Sep 2006 23:20:08 -0700 Message-ID: <1157178008.620289.321840@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: <1156879380.954694.119060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> Michael A. Terrell wrote: > Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > > > > Go ahead and plonk Buck... remember who's at fault here. > > > I guess that all Buck wants to read is Skippy's insane rants? Gee, > who will answer his questions after he plonks the entire newsgroup, > except Skippy? > > -- > Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to > prove it. > Member of DAV #85. You know, I hadn't realized that this thing was growing more layers than an onion. Smells like one, to be sure. We know who the fragile ones are, at least. Small comfort. Good night, Mike. > Michael A. Terrell > Central Florida Article: 341326 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Belleek Neptune cups and saucers for sale Date: 1 Sep 2006 23:23:39 -0700 Message-ID: <1157178218.959875.30610@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <1157033709_5975@sp6iad.superfeed.net> L. wrote: > "Anti-Dinius" wrote in message > news:1157125148.226548.69340@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com... > > > > Steven wrote: > >> "I am about to seek a lawyer concerning several person and your > >> customer is one...", > > > > Do lawyers accept food stamps? > > > > Most legal aid attorneys don't "sue" for monetary damages either. If you > can't prove a case without doubt, meaning YOU haven't provoked it in some > way - LOTS OF LUCK - SKIPPY! > > The answer is simple - quit drawing attention to yourself and all will stop! > > L. What an assinine notion. That implies I should leave. Why not you, if you want to espouse that line? At least we have found the fragile ones, FWIW. Article: 341327 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Belleek Neptune cups and saucers for sale Date: 1 Sep 2006 23:30:04 -0700 Message-ID: <1157178604.074488.220340@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> References: <1157033709_5975@sp6iad.superfeed.net> L. wrote: > "Anti-Dinius" wrote in message > news:1157125148.226548.69340@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com... > > > > Steven wrote: > >> "I am about to seek a lawyer concerning several person and your > >> customer is one...", > > > > Do lawyers accept food stamps? No. Food Stamps are not physical coupons anymore and haven't been for years. They are accessed by a swipe card with a PIN, like an ATM or debit card. 1970 happened in 1970. Please update your calendar. You can download better stereotypes now. Article: 341328 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steven" Subject: Re: Test Equipment Date: 1 Sep 2006 23:43:16 -0700 Message-ID: <1157179396.829197.108970@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> References: Michael A. Terrell wrote: > Paul Dietenberger wrote: > > > > "Paul" wrote in message > > news:Xns9831F26C37EAFnospamallnet@24.70.95.211... > > > Need some advice, I have a good multimeter, but am thinking of getting a > > > signal generator, is the one AES sells for around $150 a good deal > > > or is there a cheaper alternative? > > > > > > Or which other gear would you recommend for a newbie? > > > > I think it's too much unless you really feel that you must have new > > equipment. '50s vintage signal generators are widely available for $20 or > > less and will generally work fine after a recap (not that difficult for most > > generators.) Look for an Eico or Heathkit for easiest access to manuals and > > service information. Hewlett-Packard generators work better but can be a bit > > intimidating for someone new to electronics and are big, heavy and expensive > > to ship if you don't find one locally. > > > > Problem is these inexpensive service-grade tools are not that accurate. > > Calibrate it against a digital AM radio with PLL tuning until you feel like > > buying a frequency counter. This will teach you how: > > http://www.radioremembered.org/tips.htm#sigcal > > > > If you have this, a multimeter and a good soldering tool (and the usual > > selection of hand tools and a well lit bench to work on) you're ready to > > start working on radios. You can keep buying equipment as your budget, > > knowledge and inclination allow. > > > > G/L > > -p. > > > > -- > > Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > > > The old Precision E200 series isn't a bad choice, and I've bought > them for as little as $5. the last one was free from the estate of a > mechanical engineer who used to live next door. The schematics are > available on BAMA for them, as well. The other B+K 970 may still be there on eBay (look for all the foam dripping from your monitor and you might find it) and mine was a total of $29 Article: 341329 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "terry" Subject: Re: Unusual output stages Date: 2 Sep 2006 00:45:26 -0700 Message-ID: <1157183126.649648.154100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> References: <44f73c9d$0$4521$e4fe514c@news.xs4all.nl> There is a circuit on a 1962 addendum page of an old Sylvania tube book here concerning 7754 and 7695 tubes, referred to as 'Single ended Push-Pull'. It 'sort of' looks like two tetrodes in series. The item also refers to 'Transformerless operation'. It sounds somewhat like what has been already mentioned on this thread. . I can scan and post if anyone wishes. Terry. Article: 341330 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "terry" Subject: Re: Unusual output stages Date: 2 Sep 2006 00:54:58 -0700 Message-ID: <1157183698.555355.311830@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> References: <44f73c9d$0$4521$e4fe514c@news.xs4all.nl> Mark Oppat wrote: > One that drove me nuts once was a moral reciever .................... . Hey, Mark? If a 'moral' receiver did that what would be result of an 'immoral' one. But I joke. :-) :-) Regards. Terry PS. I find I can never spell 'receiver' correctly first, or even second time; I always seem to put in an extra 'e' and it comes out 'receiever'. Oops, I did it again! Sometimes my spell-check will catch it other times it doesn't. Article: 341331 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "gerryu21220@gmail.com" Subject: Re: Zenith Console Stereo SF2580 Date: 2 Sep 2006 01:37:03 -0700 Message-ID: <1157186223.236173.203090@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> References: <1157102792.759192.276860@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> Bill Cohn wrote: > Gerry, > > The tube you want to check is the 12AT7. There are two of them in the > front end of this tuner one is used for both AM and FM and the other is > used just for the FM side. Swap them and see what happens. It very > likely the problem is not a tube but another problem in the chassis like > bad capacitors or a bad IF transformer. > > Good Luck, > > Bill Cohn Ahh - thanks Bill. With Ernesto here, I haven't been able to go out in the shed to look and see what all tubes were near the 'front end'. I have to unload half the shed to get to it. However, I have already swapped the 12AT7s out, but since those are used, one of them could be bad as well. I still have a feeling that it's probably a capacitor, as I said in my initial post. I hope it isn't an IF transformer - I know nothing about them, how to replace them, or even if it's possible to. Not even sure what they look like. Would that be one of those tall, metal square things between the tubes? Well, no point in worrying about it just yet until I can swap out those tubes a couple times. Anyway - thanks again for clarifying which tubes to look at. Gerry Article: 341332 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: Test Equipment Message-ID: Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2006 08:45:38 GMT We just had a discussion about this on the binaries (alt.binaries.pictures.radio). Someone posted a photo of his bench, and most of the test equipment on it was Eico -- and made for an impressive bench! Eico products are classroom grade, to be sure. They are inexpensive, they are not necessarily accurate, and they do very little for snob appeal when trying to impress your friends. However for radio work they are about as effective as you can get. They are simple and easy to use, they are rugged, and they perform their intended task very well. Plus, they are common as dirt, so you can usually pick one up for next to nothing at a swap meet or on eBay. Three of the products which in my opinion really shine are the signal generator, signal tracer, and capacitance bridge. Now -- regarding what to buy for a startup bench, first and foremost should be a meter. There are lots of meters out there -- heck, I think you can buy a new digital at Harbor Freight for something like $5. Personally I like to have both a digital AND an analog VTVM. As for the VTVM's, Heathkit has a few decent ones out, the RCA Senior VoltOhmist is a good one, as is the B&K (forget the model number). As for signal generators, Heathkit has a few out there, but in my opinion -- in the inexpensive-but-effective category, the Eico is hard to beat. As for signal tracers, Eico has a good tube type and a solid state version -- I personally use the solid state. The tube version is probably a little better, but the advantage of the solid state one is that I usually only use it for a few seconds at a time, and I hate to have to keep waiting for it to warm up. I don't leave it on because I can't stand the continual buzzing and humming of the test leads hanging. As for other brands, I'm not familiar with them but I'm sure there are several that do the job. It's only an amp and a speaker, so you could make one from a portable radio simply by soldering a test lead to the volume control. For RF stick a diode in there. If it runs on AC, make sure it's isolated. About the only other pieces of test equipment I can think of would be either a power supply or isolation transformer/variac. I have two power supplies (I work on car radios). One provides 6 volts, 12 volts, or anywhere in that range, up to 10 amps. The other is a Heathkit, I think IP-17, that provides B+ of zero to 400 volts, and also filament voltages. My method of troubleshooting car radios is to remove the vibrator and rectifier, and feed it with B+ to see if it draws current. Then I can determine if it's safe to use the vibrator and rectifier. On home radios you can do similar, or a favorite among many is to plug it into a variac and bring the voltage up slowly -- and watch the current. You need an isolation transformer if you work on transformerless AC radios. As for other equipment, there are such things as oscilloscopes which can break your bank only to find you won't use them much. I've got a gorgeous 100mHz dual trace, and only recently I turned it on just to see if it still works -- it's been years since I last used it. Same with frequency counter -- though less expensive than a scope, it's something that for me just takes up space. If you use them fine, but for old radio work you don't need them. One "specialty" piece that I DO use a lot is an inductance meter. I use it to precisely measure the inductance range of tuning coils on car radios, mainly for conversion purposes. It measures to a tenth of a microhenry. If you should have the need for one of these, it appears good LCR meters are suddenly popping up out of nowhere. But again, determine the need. Hope this helps. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Paul" wrote in message news:Xns9831F26C37EAFnospamallnet@24.70.95.211... > Need some advice, I have a good multimeter, but am thinking of getting a > signal generator, is the one AES sells for around $150 a good deal > or is there a cheaper alternative? > > Or which other gear would you recommend for a newbie? > > > Paul Article: 341333 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: Test Equipment Message-ID: Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2006 08:55:01 GMT By the way- to add to my last message, I need to make a clarification to you or anyone who is not "seasoned" in radio work. When I mention Eico, Heathkit, or many of the other brands, don't go looking through your Mouser catalog to try and locate the latest models -- most of these models, and even the brands themselves, are long gone. However unlike cars and computers, these pieces are long lasting, and you'll find plenty of these at swap meets. eBay, or probably even at electronics stores that sell surplus. Very little of what I have was purchased new. Of that, I purchased it 30 years ago and still have it. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:SwbKg.486$%75.284@trnddc05... > We just had a discussion about this on the binaries > (alt.binaries.pictures.radio). Someone posted a photo of his bench, and > most of the test equipment on it was Eico -- and made for an impressive > bench! > > Eico products are classroom grade, to be sure. They are inexpensive, they > are not necessarily accurate, and they do very little for snob appeal when > trying to impress your friends. However for radio work they are about as > effective as you can get. They are simple and easy to use, they are > rugged, and they perform their intended task very well. Plus, they are > common as dirt, so you can usually pick one up for next to nothing at a > swap meet or on eBay. > > Three of the products which in my opinion really shine are the signal > generator, signal tracer, and capacitance bridge. > > Now -- regarding what to buy for a startup bench, first and foremost > should be a meter. There are lots of meters out there -- heck, I think > you can buy a new digital at Harbor Freight for something like $5. > Personally I like to have both a digital AND an analog VTVM. As for the > VTVM's, Heathkit has a few decent ones out, the RCA Senior VoltOhmist is a > good one, as is the B&K (forget the model number). As for signal > generators, Heathkit has a few out there, but in my opinion -- in the > inexpensive-but-effective category, the Eico is hard to beat. As for > signal tracers, Eico has a good tube type and a solid state version -- I > personally us