From MAILER-DAEMON Sat Feb 28 10:28:51 2009 Return-Path: <> X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.8 (2007-02-13) on industrial X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, score=-87.1 required=2.4 tests=ADVANCE_FEE_1,AWL, MAILTO_TO_SPAM_ADDR,SPF_HELO_PASS,USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=disabled version=3.1.8 X-Original-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Delivered-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Received: from listserv.albany.edu (unknown [169.226.1.24]) by metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id 45F8D49089 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:53 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.13.8/8.13.8) with ESMTP id n1SF1MMI014128 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:53 -0500 (EST) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:50 -0500 From: "University at Albany LISTSERV Server (14.5)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0607C" To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Message-ID: Content-Length: 56565 Lines: 1347 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 00:53:41 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Randy_Oliver?= Subject: grafting tool Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi all, I have a grafting tool I purchased from Dadant Chico some years ago, and am trying to find the manufacturer so I can purchase another. It is double ended, with the needle scoops pointing opposite directions. Wooden handle. Stamped on handle is "U.g. L.ILG." also "12 Stunden Made." Anyone have any info? It's a great tool! Randy Oliver California -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 01:08:14 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Randy_Oliver?= Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Carl Easiest way I find the queen in a hot hive is to insert queen excluders between all boxes and wait at least 4 days. Then suit up and find the box with eggs. Move that box away and let the old bees all fly back. Then it's easy to find the queen in only one box of young bees. We noticed that Weaver queens were a bit "spicy" last year. Too bad, since I applaud them for their mite resistance breeding program. Randy Oliver Calif -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 11:49:23 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Killing a hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline For those of you interested in killing a hive, there are many ways but the quickest is to first slide 3-4 sheets of newspaper into the entrance to form a sponge of sorts and to then pour about 2 cups of gasoline into the hole in the inner cover. Do it at night when all the bees are home and when they won't bother you 'too much'. You will get a mighty roar, and the fumes kill the bees in about 30 seconds. Wait a hour or so for all fumes to dissipate and then burn everything. LLoyd -- Lloyd Spear Owner Ross Rounds, Inc. Manufacture of equipment for round comb honey sections, Sundance Pollen Traps, and producer of Sundance custom labels. Contact your dealer or www.RossRounds.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 09:24:34 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Randy writes: Too bad, since I applaud them for their mite resistance breeding program. Reply: What has this to do with hot bees? Most bees, I know of, are mite resistant also.... Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organicbeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 18:14:21 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>In defense of the Weaver's they have always protected their queen lines (I have been told) and keep marked numbered breeder queens. How do you protect your queen lines? Even if you AI your breeder virgins, your control over the semen is limited. I mean you how to your ensure exlusive EHB genes in the collected drones? I suppose you could do genetic testing on your virgins and drones but this is expensive (and not necessarily 100% accurate). I don't think EHB drone saturation will be fully effective. Drones drift over many miles and move from hive to hive. >>We need U.S. queen and package producers to survive. Think of their plight. I feel for queen breeders and beekeepers who have operated in the same area often for generations. I think *good* queen producers will need to locate in non-African areas going forward. I don't wish for queen producers to spread AHB genetics into areas where they are not. Queen producers have to adapt. George Imirie, I believe, said that you can't keep bees like grandpa did. >>A few AHB matings will happen and those queens will be shipped. I am concerned about these bees swarming into the local area and spreading their genetics. Not everyone will be depopulated in time. >>Get rid of those "hot" genetics and keep foulbrood out of your hives! This is excellent advice. I fear not everyone will heed. I can see novice hobby beekeepers get AHB genetics through mail, watch hot hives get strong in numbers and attitude, and then be afraid to approach the hives to do the right thing. Waldemar Long Island, NY -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 18:22:26 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>Easiest way I find the queen in a hot hive is to insert queen excluders between all boxes and wait at least 4 days. I saw a nifty device used to find/trap queens on a recent visit to Poland. A beekeeper showed me a home-made, double-chamber queen cage. The two chambers were separated by #4 mesh. The 'bait' chamber contained a mature queen, the other one was empty except for a screened cone entrance. The idea is that the resident queen will seek to find and kill the caged queen. She will crawl all around trying to get access to the cage queen until she walks in throught the screen cone. She can't back out. The beekeeper said he typically gets the resident queen within 24 hours. Waldemar Long Island, NY -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 15:58:10 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma Comments: To: Scot Mc Pherson Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 21:49:40 -0500, Scot Mc Pherson wrote: >The message was related to how a wiping out of ferals was a negative Scot, I am sorry if I took your words out of context. As they say, I tuned in late. On the other hand, the whole feral thing happens to be a pet peeve of mine. 1. I don't believe bees in the woods are properly "feral". Mostly, they are escaped swarms, which are no different from the hives they came from. Bees aren't really domesticated, so they don't have some domesticated state from which they might revert to a wilder form. They basically ARE wild; they still swarm, sting, etc. 2. I don't believe that feral bees are better than bred bees. The may be more healthy than inbred bees, like a pound puppy may be more healthy than a highly inbred german shepherd, for example. But this is a problem of breeding for the wrong traits. Many animals have been bred for various reasons not related to health, and the negative consequences are widely known. However, one should be able to breed more healthy animals that require fewer treatments, if that is what one is after. 3. If you really want "feral" style bees, it is a simple matter to stop buying queens and let the bees supersede. You can raise queens from the ugliest, rudest bees and pride yourself in having mongrels. Not what I would do but there are many paths to perfection. 4. In many states feral bees are or will be outlawed, for the simple reason that they have the potential to be africanized bees. Years ago it laws were passed outlawing the keeping of bees in hives without frames, for the simple reason that they cannot be easily examined. By the same logic, it is probably a good thing to not have the woods filled up with wild bees (in some areas they already are, of course). 5. If the goal is to maintain "original stock" -- I goal I would heartily support -- then there are many good ways of doing this. There are many organizations that raise and preserve plant varieties and preserving honey bee types is also promoted in some areas. In other areas, the prevailing bees are so thoroughly mixed, that the notion of race or type no longer has much meaning. Those are my opinions at present and are certainly subject to change in light of better ones! pb -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 20:13:42 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Brian_Fredericksen?= Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit In spring of 2005 I purchased 34 queens from B Weaver as my normal source of Carniolan's in California was oversold. I was intruiged by there claims of mite resistance. While the offspring from these queens were not as gentle as the Carniolans we use in the rest of our operation I did not feel they were hot or unworkable. The mite counts in these colonies remained low and they have received no treatments so far. Many of the queens are still in production again this year. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 21:18:58 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: D Thompson Subject: Re: Saga of the Robber Bees In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Friday 14 July 2006 04:00, BEE-L automatic digest system wrote: > Stopping robbing is more of an adventure than a cure My sugestion (from Wedmore): (it works) Put an empty box on the hive (no frames), then a sheet of glass All this must be bee tight Raise the cover a few inches so light can get in the top (brick, scrap 2x4,etc) The robbers go up to the glass, bang their heads on it for a few days. Whether they are demoralized, concussed or just smell wrong they end up joining the robbed hive Use a small entrance for a few days These former robbers make excellent guards dave -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 22:57:52 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Peter Borst writes: 4. In many states feral bees are or will be outlawed, for the simple reason that they have the potential to be africanized bees. ... By the same logic, it is probably a good thing to not have the woods filled up with wild bees (in some areas they already are, of course). Reply: Can you expand on this chain of thought "In many states feral bees will be outlawed" LIke where planned? Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/oranicbeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 23:04:25 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Peter Borst writes: 3. If you really want "feral" style bees, ... You can raise queens from the ugliest, rudest bees and pride yourself in having mongrels. Not what I would do but there are many paths to perfection. Reply: Is this actually what you call/define as ferals? Can you please give more insite as to why you feel this way? Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organicbeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 12:18:03 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "James W. Hock" Subject: Re: Hot Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several ways to deal with hot hives. The hard part is getting into them first. The easisest way to get into one that I found so far it to slid it down the hive stand and put a different hive in it's place on the stand. The hot foragers move into the new hive, leaving the hot hive less guarded. A day or two later you can open the hot hive pretty much unmolested. As new foragers mature, the hive grows hot again, but you have a window to get into it the dispatch the queen. I have not tried this with Africanized bees. (yet) Jim Hock Wethersfield, CT. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 13:55:23 -0400 Reply-To: bee-quick@bee-quick.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: James Fischer Organization: Fischer Alchemy Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma > ...Poland. A beekeeper showed me a home-made, double-chamber > queen cage. The two chambers were separated by #4 mesh. The > 'bait' chamber contained a mature queen, the other one was empty > except for a screened cone entrance. > The idea is that the resident queen will seek to find and kill the > caged queen. Gee, I'd hazard that we all wish it were that simple. :) Here at Farmageddon, we've spent lots of time and money on pheromones, tiny circuits that faithfully reproduce queen piping, even an approach identical to the one mentioned, using both live and recently dispatched queens, all to no consistent avail. We did have some apparent "successes", but they had to be admitted to be "random luck", as we could not duplicate the results consistently. While a method that would make "finding the queen" easier would be a serious advance to the state of the art, a laying queen does not seek out, not does she "fight" an introduced mated queen or virgin. Virgins will seek out other virgins, or unhatched queens, but a mated and laying queen is herded about by her attendants like a cow on a rope. The worker bees in a queenright hive are the bees who will attack, maim, and kill a newly-introduced queen. But even this reaction is inconsistent. Sometimes, yes. Sometimes not. > The beekeeper said he typically gets the resident queen > within 24 hours. Try it yourself, and see. You'll get a trap full of workers. (You'll need to enlarge the small-end opening on a standard cone to allow a queen to enter, and you'll likely want an unmodified standard cone to allow the workers to exit the trap, or you will see the thing fill with workers in short order.) One finding as a result of our work was more evidence that there are a lot more 2-queen hives than many beekeepers suspect. This may have a lot to do with "introduction problems", as who would think to keep looking for a second queen after one has "found" the first? Well, now we think of it. But if (as I suspect) somewhere between 2% and 5% of all hives have two laying queens co-existing, it follows that laying queens are more likely to have a Cup of Tea than a Coup d'Etat. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 18:02:22 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Brian_Fredericksen?= Subject: Re: [WL] [BEE-L] Bees in grave danger Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I really thought that NRDC article was inaccurate and misleading. The message seemed to be that pesticides are the reason 1/3 of commercial hives perished during the winter of 2004-2005. No mention was made of the miticide resistance issue facing most beekeepers which seemed to peak during that time period. No mention was made of the frequent misuse of TACTIC by beekeepers to battle Varrora mites or the misuse of checkmite etc. For that matter no mention was made either of what the beekeeper featured in the article uses to treat for mites in his own hives. I'd love to know what he used or uses now. I keep bees and grow apples. Some of my hives sit in my orchard year around. We carefully spray insecticides/fungicides occasionally during the spring after petal fall and have not seen any loss of bees or honey crop in that yard as compared to other nearby beeyards. Other regional beekeepers who do pollination for apples in Mn/Wis also do not appear to have any problems either. The co-exsistance of the proper use of ag chemicals and bees in overlapping areas is very common despite the distorted message in the article. The poplar tree/Sevin problem was the result of a relatively new move by the timber industry to grow hybridized poplars in Mn. The Mn DNR and International Paper Co were found at fault and a landmark court decision came forth that has had an impact on all checmical applicators in Mn. I thought the article took a real and serious problem (sevin/poplar/honeybee issue in Mn) and attempted to make some extrapolations that I for one just don't buy. The most ironic point to me is that no mention was made of the chemicals that are dumped annually into beehives around the USA. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 00:19:30 +0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "podilato ." Subject: Hive with no queen! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Hi all! I'm an amateur (and new) beekeeper and I really enjoy the conversations on this list. They're very helpful to me. Recently the queen of one of my hives left the hive along with a big number of bees and 'sat' on a nearby tree. When I saw it, I *supposed* that a new queen was born and one of them left the hive with some of the bees. So, I managed to put the queen and the bees surrounding her in a new hive and left it under the tree. This happened before two weeks. Yesterday, I visited again my hives (I was on holidays the time in between) and even though the new hive is doing well, I realised that the old hive *does not* have a queen bee!!! Searched for her twice but I couldn't find her! I suppose this is because, 1)she is dead (for unknown reasons to me) 2) there wasn't a new queen in the first place! Maybe the queen in the hive, decided to leave it without queen!!! Does any know if any of these are possible (and why) ? Are there any other possible explanations?! Since the old hive doesn't have a queen bee is destined to die. What can I do to save it? *Is* there anything I can do? I thought that maybe if I find a queen cell in another hive I can put it in this. But a friend of mine said that the bees are going to kill her as soon as she gets out of the cell because she is not 'theirs'! Is this sensible to assume? Another solution I thought, is to 'reunite' the two hives back in to one. Is this the best I can do?! Are there any other solutions?! TIA P. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 21:34:05 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: [WL] [BEE-L] Bees in grave danger MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, > We carefully spray insecticides/fungicides occasionally during the spring after petal fall and have not seen any loss of bees or honey crop in that yard as compared to other nearby beeyards. Try a dose of penncap M and see how your bees do sitting in apples. The chemical of choice for apple growers in our area. Right after the king bloom. >Other regional beekeepers who do pollination for apples in Mn/Wis also do not appear to have any problems either. Sitting bees in a commercial apple grove in Missouri when about fourteen sprays are applied is a recipe for disaster. The bees work the clover under the trees. I run a small apple orchard and have done a couple sprays around dark and got by but only after mowing under the trees and not using strong chemicals like all the apple orchards in our area use. I am not saying Brian is not doing what he says he is but only saying one should *use caution* when placing bees year around in or around a commercial apple orchard (or a mile away). >The co-existence of the proper use of ag chemicals and bees in overlapping areas is very common despite the distorted message in the article. I beg to differ. Many is the yard I have had wiped out from misuse of chemical pesticides by ignorant farmers and spray applicators. I used to be of the mindset of: " I don't get mad but get even" but now I move hives away from spray problems after dismal failure at trying to wake up a few ignorant farmers and spray applicators. Its not so much the spraying after bloom with apples (the most important spray application for apples however) but the spray dropping on the dandelions and clover under the trees which does the most bee damage. My partner and I do the largest apple orchard in Missouri pollination(takes 400-500 hives) and we insist on the orchard mowing before the bees enter so the bees will work the apples instead of the dandelions and clover below the trees. As soon as the apple bloom is over the bees drop to the flowers below the trees. Sincerely, Bob Harrison -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 22:29:16 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Eugene Makovec Subject: Re: Hive with no queen! In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'd be willing to bet you have a new queen in the old hive. A swarm leaves with the old queen several days before the new one emerges. Once she emerges, it's several more days before she mates and starts her egg-laying career. In the meantime, she keeps a very low profile. Your new queen is probably just on the verge of making herself known. I've had similar cases where I've given up on a colony, then come back a week later and found a couple frames of brood. Eugene Makovec Kirkwood, MO USA "Recently the queen of one of my hives left the hive along with a big number of bees and 'sat' on a nearby tree... This happened before two weeks. Yesterday ... I realised that the old hive *does not* have a queen bee!!!" -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 22:16:21 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Nectar: the First Soft Drink - Food Coloring, Preservatives and all MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi all: Now here is a good article to read I'd like to pass along... http://www.sciencenews.org/articles/20060513/bob10.asp Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organicbeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 03:09:39 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Robert Brenchley Subject: Re: Hive with no queen! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 16/07/06 18:05:41 Pacific Daylight Time, podilato@GOOGLEMAIL.COM writes: <> If you give them a sealed queen cell, they won't destroy that if they're really queenless. Alternatively, give them a frame with eggs, and let them raise their own. If they don't raise cells, then that's a sign that there is a queen present. Regards, Robert Brenchley -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 12:59:26 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: [WL] [BEE-L] Bees in grave danger Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>The message seemed to be that pesticides are the reason 1/3 of commercial hives perished during the winter of 2004-2005. I have removed colonies from people's homes - from cavities that had had colonies killed off with insecticide. Even years later, the new colonies that subsequently move in exhibit health problems. Newly raised worker behave sickly and the queens often go sterile (or perhaps don't lay viable eggs) and replacement virgins often appear to fail to leave the nest to go on a mating flight (or perhaps go on mating flights and fail to start laying viable eggs). You open up such a colony and find it pretty much broodless. Chemicals greatly affect the bees and, particularly, the queens. >>Some of my hives sit in my orchard year around. We carefully spray insecticides/fungicides occasionally during the spring after petal fall... I know one orchadist in WA state who sprays apples to thin out the blossoms. The idea is that if the tree has a smaller number of pollinated blossoms, the resulting fruit will be larger and bring a better price. I know he's very careful with his spray schedule and the time when he ask the beekeeper bring in his bees. We have an apple tree with 5 varieties grafted on it. It blossomed and set some fruit for the first time this year. I have not sprayed but it appears it will be necessary to do it next year to control apple rust. I think the spots on leaves and some friut is called apple rust. Waldemar -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 07:36:14 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Grant Gillard Subject: Re: Hive with no queen! In-Reply-To: <200607170329.k6H3TQ2c028705@smtp.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit "Your new queen is probably just on the verge of making herself known. I've had similar cases where I've given up on a colony, then come back a week later and found a couple frames of brood." I would concur, having had the same experience. Sometimes I've gone ahead and put in a frame of fresh eggs/larvae from another hive. Later inspections reveal no queen cells from fresh larvae made on this newly introduced frame, much to my disappointment. Then on my next inspection, lots of fresh eggs and new larvae, and then I start adding up the days and conclude the new queen was always there. This is also true when introducing queen cells into nucs. There is a gap of time between her emergence and her first eggs laid. She needs time to mature and mate. My heart has sunk many times when I looked in my mating nucs only to find no eggs and no queen. Since I know the queen cell was there, my only conclusion is that she got lost or eaten on her mating flight. Then, about the time I want to insert a frame of fresh eggs/larvae from another hive, BAM! I've got eggs and larvae from a resident queen! I find it amazing they do so well despite our incompetence and interference. Patience is perhaps the greatest of virtues needed to be a successful beekeeper. Grant Jackson, MO --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 12:15:29 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Randy_Oliver?= Subject: two queens in a colony Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit But if (as I suspect) somewhere between 2% and 5% of all hives have two laying queens co-existing, it follows that laying queens are more likely to have a Cup of Tea than a Coup d'Etat. Based upon my experience in setting up cell builders, and making up thousands of nucs, I'd concur. I've seen three two-queen colonies in the last week alone! (one a two story established colony, one an apparently queenright nuc that mated out a queen from an introduced cell, one a one-story colony with a clipped and marked breeder that had a happy supersedure virgin walking around). Randy Oliver Calif -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 12:34:38 -0500 Reply-To: scot.mcpherson@gmail.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Scot Mc Pherson Organization: The Mc Pherson Family Honey Farms Subject: Re: two queens in a colony In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit USUALLY...I say USUALLY... A two queen colony consists of mother and daughter, and the mother is being superceded but hasn't gotten the boot yet. A managed two queen colony is USUALLY something different. The queens are segregated, and the colony is more like a "two colony hive" instead of a "two queen colony." -- Scot McPherson The McPherson Family Honey Farms Davenport, Iowa USA -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 14:21:04 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "Lehr, Carl" Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma - CLARIFICATION! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Fellow Beekeepers If I may clarify, my initial questions regarding our bees were from a position of inexperience and ignorance. I didn't mean to alarm the community. I was only seeking guidance; nothing more, nothing less. In the midst of this evolving dilemma, we have done most of what has been advised regarding courses of action so to answer the preponderance of questions that has resulted, the following is submitted for your review: >Did the package come from B. Weaver or R. Weaver (both in Navasota)? Randy and Laura Weaver. Have they been contacted, and have you a response from them? YES. As far as I can tell, they are beekeepers of the highest standard whose professional ethics I certainly didn't mean to question or disparage. They were immediately concerned with our situation and sought to help rectify the situation with replacements and guidance. They have been nothing but support and surprisingly frank with us and their efforts in support of the beekeeping community are deeply appreciated. >Was the queen marked when she arrived, such that you will know that she is the original queen when you find her? Unfortunately, she arrived unmarked and unclipped which was counter to our original order. >Have the folks in the State Apiary Inspector's office been notified? YES >Have any inspectors looked at the subject colony and were samples forwarded to the Bee Research Lab at USDA Beltsville for examination (for physical characteristics of AHB?) Not yet but we have an appointment with two state inspectors to have them inspected in the immediate future. They asked that we delay any euthanizing until that inspection. Samples will be taken and submitted to Beltsville for physical examination. Until then, we've cordoned off the area (on our farm, in the country) to anyone who may be wandering into the area, just in case. When all is said and done, we just want to be able to work our bees in as natural a state as possible. If my questions were insensitive to the Weavers, I am deeply sorry as that was not the case and believe they know that. For the record, it is our intention to become part of the greater American beekeeping association and hence will do what is best for all concerned; not necessarily what is best for us, personally. If they turn out NOT to be AHB and the inspectors tell us we're out of our minds, I'm not sure what we'll do. Unfortunately, I fear the alternative. Regardless of the outcome (which I will report when our scientific finding are complete), I would like you all to know that your continued support and informed participation on Bee-L is deeply appreciated and necessary. Sincerely, Dave Dave and Kristi Lehr Westminster, Maryland -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 12:44:26 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "podilato ." Subject: Re: Hive with no queen! In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Hi all! Thanks for your input guys, I really appreciate it! I'll give some extra time to the queen make herself known... However, from your answers I got the impression that it is possible from *ordinary* bee eggs a queen to be hatched. I thought that you have to have a queen cell in order to get a new queen. Is it possible a queen-less population to make a queen from an ordinary bee cell?! Thanks again! Pd. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 09:51:59 -0500 Reply-To: scot.mcpherson@gmail.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Scot Mc Pherson Organization: The Mc Pherson Family Honey Farms Subject: Re: Hive with no queen! In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >>> I thought that you have to have a queen cell.... You do require a queen cell....the bees will build one around some larvae that are the right age. Eggs are usually good because you know they will be the right age soon. The bees will build several queen cells around the eggs/larvae you supply. -- Scot McPherson The McPherson Family Honey Farms Davenport, Iowa USA -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 07:36:39 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Grant Gillard Subject: Re: Hive with no queen! In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Simply put: Queens originate from worker larvae. The nurse bees flood the worker larvae with royal jelly, then reconstruct the cell size to accomodate the larger space required of a queen. The bees will convert a worker cell into a queen cell, and customarily, the queen cell hangs off the side of the comb, even along the lower edges of the frame. I try to explain to others that because of the rich diet of royal jelly, the worker larvae has her destiny altered to a higher plane of nutrition and development such that she becomes a queen and not a worker. However, you need young larvae to pull this off, hence my thoughts about adding a frame of eggs and young larvae. More than likely, if you are waiting for a newly emerged queen to mature and show herself, all of the other larvae that came with her has aged into the pupa state, and for them, it is too late to become a queen. Grant Jackson, MO --------------------------------- Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 15:23:23 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bobbie Kramer Subject: Visiting Honolulu In-Reply-To: <20060718143639.68920.qmail@web31606.mail.mud.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello! I'm visiting Honolulu this week, and I'm interested in what the local honey business is like. Anyone out there in Oahu? I'll be here until Friday night. Also, I've heard about a special white honey varietel--what is it and where can I get some? Thanks Bobbie Kramer, DVM ________________________________________________________________________ Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 20:55:36 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: Hive with no queen! In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit podilato writes: Is it possible a queen-less population to make a queen from an ordinary bee cell?! Reply: Yes. Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organicbeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 14:18:10 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Betsy Klinger Subject: Treating for varroa MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I want to treat for varroa now that I have removed my supers. Is it OK to feed the colony while treating for varroa? I see some instructions, that instead of saying,"Always remove supers before treating" say "Never treat during a honey flow" and I wonder if contamination of the colony's own honey supply is an issue. (I plan to use CheckMite+ this time but I think the ApiLife Var has similar precautions.) Thanks for any enlightenment. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 15:48:01 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Sad news MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit It is with deep regrets that I direct readers to http://www.betterbee.com/ to read of the passing of an innovative leader in the beekeeping industry. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 13:17:23 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mea McNeil Subject: Re: Sad news In-Reply-To: <9D95C2906FCCE04F836ECA17C4CE092109A64E49@UAEXCH.univ.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I never knew Robert Stevens, but I am a reader of his Betterbee catalog. It is full of beautifully clear and practical explanatory prose by someone who knows and loves bees. Mea McNeil Aaron Morris wrote: > It is with deep regrets that I direct readers to > http://www.betterbee.com/ to read of the passing of an innovative leader > in the beekeeping industry. > -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 21:05:44 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: Treating for varroa Comments: To: Betsy Klinger Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 14:18:10 EDT, Betsy Klinger wrote: >I want to treat for varroa now that I have removed my supers. Is it OK to >feed the colony while treating for varroa? Yes, that's OK. The issue is contaminating honey that will be usd for human consumption. This could occur if one used chemical treatments during the period when bees are storing honey in the supers. In the fall, for example, one would feed and treat at the same time. pb -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 18:26:57 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mike Stoops Subject: Re: Hive with no queen! In-Reply-To: <20060719035536.11563.qmail@web51609.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit podilato writes: Is it possible a queen-less population to make a queen from an ordinary bee cell?! Dee Lusby wrote: Reply: Yes. Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby I will add a qualification to Dee's answer. They will make a queen from an ordinary bee cell if the larva in that cell is three days old or less. Older than that and then you get something that isn't all queen and isn't all worker. There is a name for the queen in that situation, but generally speaking it spells curtains for the colony unless they get a true queen. Mike in LA --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 22:08:01 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: Hive with no queen! In-Reply-To: <20060720012657.29205.qmail@web53410.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Mike: True. thelytoky queens/intercaste queens are normally short-lived to cover the circumstances until a better long-lived queen can be raised. Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organicbeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 14:15:51 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: ROSSY CASTILLO Subject: I need information MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please beekeepers from Islas Canarias would you please tell me about the season in the Islands (Tenerife , El Hierro.La Palma) when does it begins and when it ends. Could I breed queens in September -october? are there enough drones during these months?. Please somebody answer me. Rossy Castillo -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 13:08:44 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Bee and wildflower diversity declines in... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Great Britain and the Netherlands. There is an interesting article at: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/5201218.stm -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 11:49:55 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dick Allen Subject: Re: Bee and wildflower diversity declines in... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Here is a somewhat related article from a post appearing recently on Bombus-L: http://www.eveningtimes.co.uk/hi/news/5054987.html Regards, Dick Allen -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 08:55:41 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: Bee and wildflower diversity declines in... In-Reply-To: <20060721.060934.713.281142@webmail13.nyc.untd.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Great article.......just goes to back up that LC artificially enlarged bees cannot get into smaller herbals and flowers to pollenate while SC more naturally sized honeybees can, besides the larger blossoms also, for better diversity of helping endangered plants. Something to be said for what we have lost by going bigger for better so-called now sick LC bees. Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organicbeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 23:50:41 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: Bee and wildflower diversity declines in... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Great Britain and the Netherlands. There is an interesting article > at: > http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/5201218.stm I think that it is important to note that this is not about honeybees - it is about bee diversity, i.e. bumblebees and solitary bees. The issue is then confused by quoting the value of pollination in the production of food crops (worldwide!) - much of which is done by honeybees. Best wishes Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/ -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2006 23:12:55 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dick Allen Subject: Re: Bee and wildflower diversity declines in... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >...the value of pollination in the production of food crops (worldwide!) - much of which is done by honeybees. Much, maybe even most, is done by honeybees. I suspect though that there is enough pollination done by other pollinators that the amount should not be considered insignificant. But, that’s just opinion on my part. http://www.nappc.org/ Regards, Dick Allen -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info ---