========================================================================= Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 20:31:09 +-100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "luichart.woollens@virgin.net" Subject: Aids and beekeeping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi All, There has been a recent case in Cyprus where a British woman has = successfully prosecuted her lover for knowingly infecting her with the = Aids virus. Today the British government is considering making a law = against this sort of incident i.e. knowingly infecting someone with a = disease. I wonder what the position would be if someone "knowingly" brought = Varroa or some other disease to an area previously free of that disease? = And, would the landowner also be responsible for allowing infected = colonies on his land? I bet you all read this because of the subject!! Still, I would be = interested to here some of your views on the subject. Harry Scotland ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 07:36:54 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: bartlett Subject: Re: Chewy Honey Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Garry, You will probably get extra points for having low moisture level most of the time. Some judges like to score everybody the same as long as the moisture is less than 18.5. By all means enter your honey --- that is how to find out what kind of product you are putting out. DO NOT ADD ANYTHING TO YOUR HONEY~!!!!!!!!! billy bee -------- > From: Garry Libby > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Chewy Honey > Date: 31 juil. 1997 20:46 > > Hello Everyone, > I've recently extracted about 70 lbs of honey.The honey is delicious > but is very thick,it has been described by a friend as being "chewy".Is this > acceptable ? Is there a way to add moisture to it ? Or should I just bottle it > as is? I live in the Boston,USA area and We are experiencing a drought,which > must be the reason for the low moisture content.If I decided to show this at a > fair would points be taken off for the low moisture?Thanks in advance for any > comments or suggestions. > Garry Libby > Boston,USA > LibBEE@msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 09:02:45 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mark Franklin Almond Subject: Beekeeping Fables MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have collected over the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to know if anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to share with me and other subscribers to the BEE-l. American Bee Journal published a few fables which were written by Conrad Burbee a year or so ago. I missed getting these fables. Can anyone help me with getting these fables? I will be most indebted to all BEE-L subscribers for their time and trouble. Mark F. Almond Concord, NC malmond@ctc.net ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 10:18:38 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert E Neely Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders Comments: To: beeman52@worldnet.att.net Question????? Where is the "Baggie Feeder" placed in the hive and in what position?? Bob Neely Goose Creek, SC neely-bee@juno.com On Tue, 15 Jul 1997 15:08:21 -0500 Ken Lawrence writes: >Jim Moore wrote: >> >> From my experience 2 or 3 short parallel cuts about 2 inches >in length >> is sufficient. >> >> --------- >> >> -------------- >> >> --------- >> >> If you make the feeding area too big the weight of the >feeding bees >> tends to cause the baggie to leak. Also slits that are too long tend >to >> compromise the bags abiltiy to hold the syrup. >> >> I think some of the early reports of the bees taking the >syrup really >> fast were due to lots of bees on top of the baggie causing the syrup >to leak >> and then just run out the entrance. This can be avoid by keeping the >slits >> shorter. >> >> I really like the baggie feeders as they don't suffer from >leaking that >> inverted pails suffer from when the air inside warms and expands. >The only down >> side is that for feeding with cool temperatures the bees have to >leave the >> warmth of the hive to get to the top of the baggie. This is not the >case for >> pails inverted over the hole of the inner cover. >> >> Regards, >> >> Jim Moore > > Hello > I also us the baggies but with only one slit about 2 inches >long. But >I can reuse the baggie by just refilling it without any trouble. > Ken Lawrence > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 10:22:03 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Harker Subject: Re: Weight of Honey In a message dated 97-07-31 23:40:05 EDT, RThorpe@sterwent.com (Rett Thorpe) writes: > Everyone reports their honey collection in pounds. Could someone please > tell me how many pounds of honey there are in a gallon. > My wife works in a bakery that buys honey in 55 gal. drums. The net weight is usually around 650 lbs. per drum which puts the weight at 11.82 lbs per gal. I would think that 11.5 to 12 lbs. per gallon would be a safe bet. - TOM - ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 10:09:49 +0000 Reply-To: Barry@Birkey.Com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: BIRKEY.COM Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Robert E Neely wrote: > > Question????? > > Where is the "Baggie Feeder" placed in the hive and in what position?? > > Bob Neely > Goose Creek, SC > neely-bee@juno.com Hi Bob- Depending on the time of year and temperature, one could place the baggie just about anywhere on the hive. Wouldn't suggest you put it between the two brood chambers though. Normally you would lay it right on top of the frames of the top super/chamber of the hive and then put some kind of frame around it (super) to give the bees room to work the baggie and keep the lid off of it. If your baggie measures roughly 12" x 12", then the foot print of the baggie when filled and laying on the frames is the same measurement. Lay it so the ziplock seal is on the side and the sides of the baggie are facing up and down. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 09:08:16 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Rett Thorpe Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain > Question????? > > Where is the "Baggie Feeder" placed in the hive and in what position?? > The baggie feeder is a very simple method of providing your bees with sugar syrup. Get some one gallon zip-lock baggies, fill with approx. 3 quarts of syrup and then lay it flat across the tops of the frames of your highest box. After it is in position, use a razor blade to cut a 'X' in the center of the baggie with each slit being about two inches long. Then place an empty hive box over the baggie and put on your inner cover and top cover. I used this method this year and found it to be simple and effective, with the exception that I mentioned previously on this list. That is when you go to work the bees, it is difficult to lift off the baggie without spilling syrup (if it is not empty). However, next time I feed, I plan to place a piece of plywood, a excluder, or some sort of tray under the baggie. This way you can lift off the whole thing without spilling syrup from the baggie. I only used one baggie per colony, but I live close to my hives and I only have two. If I had to drive 20 miles to my yard I think I would put two of these baggies on each colony. I haven't tried it, but I think that there would be room. If you have any more questions feel free to e-mail me directly Rett Thorpe Salt Lake City, Utah ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 09:19:28 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Rett Thorpe Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have collected > over > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to know if > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to share > Mark I cant speak for any of the others on the list, but I would be interested in reading the stories that you currently have. Would you be willing to put them in a file and send them either to the list, or to me directly? Anyone else interested? Thanks Rett Thorpe Salt Lake City, Utah ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 11:26:16 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jim Arthur Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables In-Reply-To: <61A1CFAB40BDCF119B3B080009D624A8029D08@STERWENT> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Sounds like fun.... ------------------------------------------------------------------- Wife and Dog missing Reward for Dog ------------------------------------------------------------------- On Fri, 1 Aug 1997, Rett Thorpe wrote: > > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have collected > > over > > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to know if > > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to share > > > Mark > I cant speak for any of the others on the list, but I would be > interested in reading the stories that you currently have. Would you be > willing to put them in a file and send them either to the list, or to me > directly? > Anyone else interested? > Thanks > Rett Thorpe > Salt Lake City, Utah > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 09:28:31 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Peter Wilson Subject: Re: Weight of Honey In-Reply-To: <970801102134_1793230487@emout04.mail.aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII e mail from pjwilson@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca On Fri, 1 Aug 1997, Tom Harker wrote: > In a message dated 97-07-31 23:40:05 EDT, RThorpe@sterwent.com (Rett Thorpe) > writes: > > > Everyone reports their honey collection in pounds. Could someone please > > tell me how many pounds of honey there are in a gallon. > > > > My wife works in a bakery that buys honey in 55 gal. drums. The net weight > is usually around 650 lbs. per drum which puts the weight at 11.82 lbs per > gal. > > I would think that 11.5 to 12 lbs. per gallon would be a safe bet. > > - TOM - > For those people using the Imperial system of measuring that 55 gal US would equate to 45 gal IMP - giving 14.4 pounds / gallon. very approximately. People with cars having an Imperial gas tank get more miles per gallon.:> Happy extracting Peter Wilson, Edmonton, AB. Canada ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 08:11:19 PDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Dennis Subject: Peaches for Pollination MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; X-MAPIextension=".TXT" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello Ted, Here is my 2 cents worth. I pollinate almonds in northern California, = pears (and sometimes peaches and apples) in southern Oregon and cranberri= es on the Oregon coast. I am running about 100 colonies at the moment. = The rule of thumb when pollinating orchards is 2 colony per acre, with = many athorities recommending more. I have found apples and peaches attr= active for the bees and good for them, the peaches being a bit earlier = then most of the fruit. Bees (and beekeepers) seem to do better when = the bees are put together in larger 'drops' of 12 to 24 hives in almonds.= This has been verified in studies done at the University of California= and is contained in the "ALMOND POLLINATION HANDBOOK" by Joe Traynor, = Kovak Books, P.O. Box 1422, Bakersfield CA., $4.00. This little book has= good information for both the growers and us beekeepers. It is well wor= th getting. Dennis Morefield Sideline Beekeeper, Oregon, USA denmar@mind.net ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 27 Aug 1956 20:44:30 +0000 Reply-To: smharris@ed.co.sanmateo.ca.us Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mason Harris Subject: filtering honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Bee folks! I am entering 4 different types of honey in the county fair next week. My lightest honey has very fine, suspended particles in it which I can't seem to get out. I have filtered it through gross and fine filters, the last one being a women's stocking. I think these suspended particles are fine pollen specks. It is most visible in the lightest honey. Does anyone have a method for clearing up this honey? I have let it sit in the sun for a few days and seemed to help with the air bubbles but not the specks of pollen. If anyone has an idea on how to clear this up, please e-mail me directly. I am doing me best to beat the person who has won most all of the honey and beeswax catagories for the last 300 years. Thanks! Mason Harris Burlingame, California ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 19:19:57 -0400 Reply-To: Bob Billson Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bob Billson Organization: my honeybees are more organized than me! :-) Subject: Re: help! dying bees In-Reply-To: <$IRb7CAygo2zEwDt@tomsp8.demon.co.uk> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Sun, 27 Jul 1997, Tom Speight wrote: >Were they workers or drones? If you have take three supers of honey, it >seems you are coming to the end of your season and that's when the poor >old men get dragged out - literally. They appeared to be workers. I thought the drones didn't get kicked out until the weather started turning colder in the early Fall. Bob -- Bob Billson, KC2WZ email: kc2wz@intercall.net (\ MS-DOS, you can't live with it. You can live without it. /) {|||8- Linux: World domination. Fast. -8|||} (/ \} ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 21:45:28 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Eunice Wonnacott Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I,too, would like to read these fables. Eunice ---------- > From: Rett Thorpe > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables > Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 12:19 PM > > > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have collected > > over > > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to know if > > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to share > > > Mark > I cant speak for any of the others on the list, but I would be > interested in reading the stories that you currently have. Would you be > willing to put them in a file and send them either to the list, or to me > directly? > Anyone else interested? > Thanks > Rett Thorpe > Salt Lake City, Utah ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 21:01:36 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: James D Satterfield Subject: tbh FAQ's now in .pdf files MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Soon after the TBH Beekeeping website came on line at: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm Barry B. suggested that the TBH beekeeping FAQ's be available as .pdf files to avoid the problem of format. Good suggestion. I've finally gotten around to doing that...he made the suggestion last *February*... Things do move slow at times. :) Links to the files are on the home page just below the links to the ASCI files. There is also a link to enable you to download Adobe Acrobat Reader (free) if you need it and don't have it. The links are also in the What's New page. If you have problems with the files, let me know. I hope your adventures are going well. Cordially yours, Jim ---------------------------------------------------------------- | James D. Satterfield | E-Mail: jsatt@gsu.edu | | 258 Ridge Pine Drive --------------------------------| | Canton, GA 30114, USA Canton is about 40 mi/64 km | | Telephone (770) 479-4784 north of Altanta, Georgia USA | | | | TBH Beekeeping Website: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm | ---------------------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 21:01:39 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mike Worrell Subject: Re: LIABILTY Will you share the name of your insurance company with us. My insurance company wants nothing to do with bees as long as I sell nothing. I have about 40 hives and if investigated would have a hard time saying that it is just a hobby. Mike ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 20:06:33 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Elizabeth M. Bowles" Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit DITTO on the fables ---------- > From: Eunice Wonnacott > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables > Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 7:45 PM > > I,too, would like to read these fables. > > Eunice > > ---------- > > From: Rett Thorpe > > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > > Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables > > Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 12:19 PM > > > > > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have collected > > > over > > > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to know if > > > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to share > > > > > Mark > > I cant speak for any of the others on the list, but I would be > > interested in reading the stories that you currently have. Would you be > > willing to put them in a file and send them either to the list, or to me > > directly? > > Anyone else interested? > > Thanks > > Rett Thorpe > > Salt Lake City, Utah ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 21:11:02 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mike Worrell Subject: Re: Gloves Bill, I keep bees in Baltimore, Harford and a few colonies in Howard counties and 90% of this years honey is a pale yellow (not Locust), with a very low moisture content (15.6%) yesterday at the Harford County fair and a very mild to bland flavor. Most all of my fellow beekeepers up here are experiencing the same. What are you Southern Maryland guys gettin and if the same, any ideas what it is? Mike ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 20:16:04 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Elizabeth M. Bowles" Subject: splitting hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm wondering if it's to late to split a hive. I'm new at this and have just aquired enough materials to start a new hive if it's not to late. I live in Missouri. My good friend, Morris, thinks it's best to play it safe and stick to one at this time of the year. I want to agree with him but I'm so excited about having bees that I want a secound on that. Sincerely, Elizabeth ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 23:51:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: Peaches for Pollination TW>From: Ted Wout >Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 12:03:28 -0400 >Subject: Peaches for Pollination >1)Do peaches benefit from bee pollination? I've heard yes and no. My opinion based on the California Bee Experience.... There is always some difference between verities and growing areas, but as a rule peach growers DO NOT want honeybees within several miles because they "cost them money in hand thinning". Beekeepers know the real reason is because they can not use the cheeper more toxic to bees pesticides during the bloom they believe and are told by the chemical hawkers and their field men from the university office they need to use to control one insect or another. I have never heard of a peach grower renting bees for pollination. Honeybees do seek out peach bloom for pollen and small amounts of watery nectar. >So I'm not just looking for free peaches. I want another palce to >keep bees. Hopefully there are other plants and trees that offer >nectar in the area. Find some citrus, at least you will have a shot at some honey production to recover part of the cost of the pesticide damage. ttul, the OLd Drone --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ If it's God's will, who gets the money? ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 00:37:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: Re: Foulbrood FAB>From: Faith Andrews Bedford >Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 13:12:40 -0400 >Subject: Re: Foulbrood FAB>I was undert the impression that any hive with AFB had to reported to a sta >bee inspector, the bees killed and the hives either burned, scorched or >treated in a "gas" chamber. Am I wrong? Is that info outddated? Hi Faith, Many states and countries do still have old laws on the books as you describe. It may well bee that their laws are out dated, and not the information as you remember it. A few states no longer use the AFB laws to regulate beekeeping as many once did, and the old slash and burn technique is no longer the beekeeping practice when a single cell of AFB is found or a mite in most bee outfits. The states that are so to speak deregulated, some officially some unofficially, because they have come to realize that the health of the honeybee is the beekeepers responsibility and not the governments and they can no longer devote man power and money to provide a service that we have been doing for ourselves from the year one anyway and a service that is readily available outside of the regulatory community if any individual beekeepers cannot do his own. Beekeeping regulation is in the same class as all "blue laws", and if the people in any area can do without buying meat on Sunday's its none of my business, the same if one area is doing well with having someone from the government help them with their bee health problems, more power to them. My own experience with government is that what starts out as help usually ends up as interference, and that to change a bad law is much harder then to pass one in the first place. I know of no bee law's or lack of bee law's that has made any difference in the actual health of our bees that are prone to get anything and everything that is said to be bad in the bee world be it disease, pest, or predators all which have no respect for the written law. Maybe it is one of nature's or God's law's that "honeybees and their keepers shall bee tested"... Who are those four horseman I see riding through my bee yards anyway? In the past one was the bee inspector for sure, with deregulation in California it is seldom the case today. And yes we still have honeybees, both in the hive and in the wild, and yes they do have disease, pests, and predators, but beekeepers may be the one's who are suffering the most as the value of honey slides and not because of any problem with their bees other then the increasing costs of keeping them alive and well from the end of one bee season to another. ttul, the OLd Drone (c) Permission is granted to freely copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)Opinions are not necessarily facts. Use at own risk. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ Imker, Bienenzuechter and Bienenvater ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 20:22:25 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Elizabeth M. Bowles" Subject: collecting specimens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm doing my senior research for a Biology degree on honey bees. I must do a presentation for a college class to recieve a grade. I would like to have visuals. I plan to make an observation hive and would also like to show the different kinds of honey bees. Would anybody like to send me specimens of there bees? I'd like a queen, drone, worker and different stages of larva if possible of the different types of bees. If so just stick em through the abdomen, belly down, before they get dry and crusty and send them with the needle attached. If you have any other great ideas for this project I'm game. But please I'm not as adventurous as to do the bee beard like some of you. :-) e-mail me for an address. Thanks, Elizabeth M. Bowles ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 20:06:21 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Lawrence Cooke Organization: Dolores Door&Trim Subject: Re: splitting hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Elizabeth M. Bowles wrote: > I'm wondering if it's to late to split a hive. I'm new at this and > have > just aquired enough materials to start a new hive if it's not to > late. I > live in Missouri. My good friend, Morris, thinks it's best to play > it > safe and stick to one at this time of the year. I want to agree with > him > but I'm so excited about having bees that I want a secound on that. > > Sincerely, > > Elizabeth I know the feeling .. Each day I sit and watch my 10 hives two of which are full size strong hives and the rest I got this year by swarms calls and from the mail. I think of allkinds of thing to do with them but when I way the time of year or the size ect. I decide it is best to leave them Bee. Bee keeping is an exercise in patience. If you have a strong enough hive to split it will be there next spring , providing no mites. I would say that it is to late in the year and the split won't have enough time to build or store food for winter. Bee keeper of two years from Colorado. Have fun , lawrence Cooke ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 15:04:29 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Aids and beekeeping On Thu, 31 Jul 1997 20:31:09 +-100 "luichart.woollens@virgin.net" writes: >I wonder what the position would be if someone "knowingly" brought = >Varroa or some other disease to an area previously free of that >disease? = > And, would the landowner also be responsible for allowing infected = >colonies on his land? >I bet you all read this because of the subject!! Still, I would be = >interested to here some of your views on the subject. You are going to get that lawyer on this List cranked up again! :-) Al, ----------------------------------------------------------- awneedham@juno.com - Scituate,MA,USA Cerberus - Three Sites In One Honey Bees-LottoLand-Doktor Finkle http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 23:06:27 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Elizabeth M. Bowles wrote: > DITTO on the fables > Yes, I too would like to read the fables. Best regardsDr Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA > ---------- > > From: Eunice Wonnacott > > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > > Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables > > Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 7:45 PM > > > > I,too, would like to read these fables. > > > > Eunice > > > > ---------- > > > From: Rett Thorpe > > > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > > > Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables > > > Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 12:19 PM > > > > > > > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have > collected > > > > over > > > > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to > know if > > > > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to > > share > > > > > > > Mark > > > I cant speak for any of the others on the list, but I > would be > > > interested in reading the stories that you currently have. Would > you > be > > > willing to put them in a file and send them either to the list, or > to > me > > > directly? > > > Anyone else interested? > > > Thanks > > > Rett Thorpe > > > Salt Lake City, Utah ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 00:12:35 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John M Thorp Subject: Re: Smoker Story Here's another one. It was 4;00 A.M. about 12 years ago when I heard someone's horn blaring away. Trying to be ever ready with a kind word or two whenever the situation arises (hum) I got out of bed to check it out. Odd as it was as soon as I opened the front door the horn stopped. After looking around a bit off to bed again.No more had the door been shut than it started again. I opened the door and to my dismay saw a small flickering flame inside my truck. I yelled to my wife and ran to the truck and made the poor choice of opening the door. Wacko--------,that oxygen starved fire literally exploded with an unexpected fury throwing me back about ten feet. It burned my eyebrows and mustache off as well as a lot of hair off my arms and chest. Thank God I wasn't hurt worse. Talk about a minus I.Q. situation. All of you can figure out the moral to this one. The only thing I was able to save was the steel flatbed. Oh well, happy beekeeping to all of you. I've been away for a month,it's good to be back. Concerning that thing I sent out on friends about six weeks or so ago. I apologize to those of you that didn't receive it well. I'd like to leave you with one more thing along that line. You may have heard it before by the late Will Rogers;"A stranger is a friend I just haven't met yet".. Take Care and GBY,John in Homestead,also at ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 00:17:31 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: filtering honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'm sure you are trying to be considerate in asking for a private = response, but you just tease the rest of us who want to know too. I for = one would like to know what you find out. I've encountered the same = thing. =20 Michael ---------- From: Mason Harris[SMTP:smharris@ed.co.sanmateo.ca.us] Sent: Monday, August 27, 1956 1:44 PM To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: filtering honey Hello Bee folks! I am entering 4 different types of honey in the county fair next week. My lightest honey has very fine, suspended particles in it which I can't seem to get out. I have filtered it through gross and fine filters, the last one being a women's stocking. I think these suspended particles are fine pollen specks. It is most visible in the lightest honey. Does anyone have a method for clearing up this honey? I have let it sit in the sun for a few days and seemed to help with the air bubbles but not the specks of pollen. If anyone has an idea on how to clear this up, please e-mail me directly. I am doing me best to beat the person who has won most all of the honey and beeswax catagories for the last 300 years. Thanks! Mason Harris Burlingame, California ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 01:36:03 -0700 Reply-To: drjames@utah.uswest.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "James Max Peterson Ph.D." Organization: Westate Tool Company Subject: Labels & Stuff MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi: Ulees Gold was good! Thanks for telling me it was out there. Now, does anyone know where to get good labels and 5# "pour jugs". Also, I would like to find a beekeeper who lives in Heidleberg, Pennsylvania. I want to sent some local honey to a teacher at the college there. Thanks, James Peterson Ph.D. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 11:02:23 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Moving Beehives Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am a beginner. I need to re organise my apiary a bit. The ideal answer is to move two of my hives forward of their present position by about 8 feet (240cm). I can wait until the bees are quiet in the Winter if necessary. Can any one give me suggestions please Tom Barrett 49 South Park Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland e mail cssl@iol.ie ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 06:24:50 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Trevor Weatherhead Subject: Re: Paraffin wax for preserving bee boxes There was work published by Kalnins and Detroy in the late 70's in the American Bee Journal ( I think) that showed paraffin wax was not very successful as a preservative. Here in Australia, there have been beekeepers who have used paraffin wax for preserving bee boxes but they did not last more than 4 or 5 years. There are several factors to look at when it comes to judging how long something can preserve a bee box for. Firstly, there is the natural decay hazard existing in your area. If it is not high, then even untreated timber will last a long time. Secondly, there is the natural durability of the timber being used. Here in Australia, natural occuring hoop pine used to be used for bee boxes. This has a lot higher natural durability that the plantation grown hoop pine which is the most common timber used nowadays. There is also plantation grown radiata pine which has a very low natural durability. I have been told by beekeepers who visited New Zealand many years ago that the beekeepers were first treating their boxes with copper naphthenate before treating with paraffin wax. This is why the wax solution was green. There has been an article published in Australia that says that boxes treated with copper naphthenate should not be hot wax dipped in paraffin. It is something to do with the volatiles produce by heating the copper naphthenate. In summary, our experience here in Australia is that in high decay hazard areas, hot wax dipping of boxes with paraffin wax does not extent the life of the box very much. Trevor Weatherhead AUSTRALIA ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 07:22:49 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Walt Barricklow Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My wife said if I didn't stop messing with my bees she was leaving, Im going to miss her. ---------- > From: Jim Arthur > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables > Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 11:26 AM > > Sounds like fun.... > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Wife and Dog missing > Reward for Dog > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > > On Fri, 1 Aug 1997, Rett Thorpe wrote: > > > > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have collected > > > over > > > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to know if > > > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to share > > > > > Mark > > I cant speak for any of the others on the list, but I would be > > interested in reading the stories that you currently have. Would you be > > willing to put them in a file and send them either to the list, or to me > > directly? > > Anyone else interested? > > Thanks > > Rett Thorpe > > Salt Lake City, Utah > > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 22:21:13 +0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: Peaches for Pollination Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Questions: >1)Do peaches benefit from bee pollination? I've heard yes and no. My reference book for nectar sources states that Apricots, Peaches and Nectarines provide mainly stimulating nectar and small quantities of pollen with a flowering period of 4 - 6 weeks. >2)If so, what concentration per tree should I put in an orchard? Recommended stocking rate 1 or 2 hives per hectar for apricots with lower rates for peaches and nectarines as many varieties of these are self pollinating although they may benefit from cross-pollination. >3)What is the longest manageable distance for taking care of bees for a >hobbyist/sideliner? Well I did hear of one person in Adelaide with hives in Brisbane! My estimate of the distance is 1500 miles but I gather he only visited in order to remove the honey once a year and this is not my idea of responsible beekeeping. I don't see any problem in driving for an hour or so to visit the apiary and fit in some leisure activities. I do think you must visit hives on at least a monthly basis during the active season to manage effectively. A friend in Maine tells me the fruit set on her apple orchard has been considerably assisted by an observation hive brought by a beekeeper for several days. Establishing a local migratory route however does involve a considerable commitment in time and equipment - those hives are heavy! Betty McAdam > HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: Pounds of honey in a gallon Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Imperial or US gallons? >Moisture content of honey? >Temperature of honey?( in fahrenheit or celsius degrees) > I don't know if this will help or hinder but I find that honey is one and a half times the weight of water. A 20 litre bucket holds 30 kilograms of honey. Honey warmed to 70 degrees Celsius (160 degrees Fahrenheit) does occupy a slightly greater space but we can still fill a 500 gram pack with 500 grams weight of honey. Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: Chewy Honey Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > I've recently extracted about 70 lbs of honey.The honey is delicious >but is very thick,it has been described by a friend as being "chewy".Is this >acceptable ? Is there a way to add moisture to it ? Or should I just bottle it >as is? I live in the Boston,USA area and We are experiencing a drought,which >must be the reason for the low moisture content.If I decided to show this at a >fair would points be taken off for the low moisture?Thanks in advance for any >comments or suggestions. Some honeys are naturally dense. Provided you can get a spoon into it to get it out of the jar - no problem. You should not add anything to honey for honey shows or any other purpose. Some shows have classes for various honey types as otherwise the judges have a difficult time as density, colour and taste are all part of the make-up of a varietal honey. The lighter honeys are preferred when awarding points although the darker honeys can have more distinctive flavours. The show guidelines may assist you to decide whether to enter but I believe the more the public can be educated in the different types of honeys and the variety of flavours the more they will seek out their favourites rather than the bland blends. Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Channell Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I'm interested. Tim Channell - El Paso At 09:45 PM 8/1/97 -0300, you wrote: >I,too, would like to read these fables. > > Eunice > >---------- >> From: Rett Thorpe >> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU >> Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables >> Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 12:19 PM >> >> > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have collected >> > over >> > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to know if >> > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to share >> > >> Mark >> I cant speak for any of the others on the list, but I would be >> interested in reading the stories that you currently have. Would you be >> willing to put them in a file and send them either to the list, or to me >> directly? >> Anyone else interested? >> Thanks >> Rett Thorpe >> Salt Lake City, Utah > > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 11:26:45 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Lawrence Cooke Organization: Dolores Door&Trim Subject: Re: Moving Beehives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Computer Software Solutions Ltd wrote: > I am a beginner. I need to re organise my apiary a bit. The ideal > answer is > to move two of my hives forward of their present position by about 8 > feet > (240cm). > > I can wait until the bees are quiet in the Winter if necessary. > > Can any one give me suggestions please > > Tom Barrett > 49 South Park > Foxrock > Dublin 18 > Ireland > > e mail cssl@iol.ie I have read that you can move them a foot or so a day. It will cause a little confusion but they adapt. lc. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 12:44:25 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Charles Hatton Subject: Bee Mites MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We took about 100 lbs of honey from our hive this week. It is our first = hive and it is only four months old. We put the bees in four months ago = and added a super every three weeks. We now have four supers. When we = brushed the bees off the frames to take the honey, hundreds of (if not a = thousand) bees fell on ground and seemed not to fly. They stayed on the = ground until they died a day or so later. =20 Could they be sick from something? We saw a little red bug in the hive. = We heard that most hives get some kind of mites. Does it sound like we = have mites? If so, what do we do to get rid of them. =20 Charles & Charley Charles@Apeleon.net ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 21:43:37 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "luichart.woollens@virgin.net" Organization: Luichart Woollens Subject: Re: Varroa MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > > If any Beekeeper in Scotland brings in Hives from Infected > > Areas KICK UP A FUSS ensure that the person in prosecuted > > even if minimal fine is given. > > There was a lengthy article in the Scottish Beekeeper this month about > this very business of prosecutions. There have been a few incidents of > infected colonies coming into Scotland but as yet there have been no > prosecutions. This matter was brought to the attention of Lord Sewel > (High up guy in MAFF!) who replied, Quote "It is always regrettable > when someone slips through the net either through ignorance or because > they disregard the law. Prosecutions will certainly be pursued where the > circumstances and evidence are considered to justify such action. > However, where possible, we prefer to achieve our objectives without > necessarily resorting to prosecution ---------! It seems to me that the government is not going to be much help here (Now there's a strange thing!!!) and it is going to be up to the beekeepers themselves to come up with some strategy to deal with this. Perhaps we shall have to re-think our practice of moving bees to and from various crops! -- Harry Scotland Knitwear Web pages: http://freespace.virgin.net/luichart.woollens/ ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 14:54:49 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Lawrence Cooke Organization: Dolores Door&Trim Subject: Re: Bee Mites MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Charles Hatton wrote: > We took about 100 lbs of honey from our hive this week. It is our > first hive and it is only four months old. We put the bees in four > months ago and added a super every three weeks. We now have four > supers. When we brushed the bees off the frames to take the honey, > hundreds of (if not a thousand) bees fell on ground and seemed not to > fly. They stayed on the ground until they died a day or so later. > Could they be sick from something? We saw a little red bug in the > hive. We heard that most hives get some kind of mites. Does it sound > like we have mites? If so, what do we do to get rid of them. > > Charles & Charley > Charles@Apeleon.net I am a beekeeper of two seasons. There are a lot of old timers a on this list that could answer this better but I have done some homework..The common practice is to give a frame of bees a good shake over the top of an open hive or in front of it to remove bees.If I use a brush at all it is just to flick of the remaining few.Brushing can damage bees. You may have some diseases problem perhaps a more experienced beekeeper could tell from what information you gave. The mite that you are hearing about is called the Varroa mite and is treated with Apistan strips. There is another mite that is controlled by using Terramycin grease patties it is the oil in the patties that prevents there spread. The Terramycin controls foul brood. No medication should be given during honey flow.. Good luck Lawrence Cooke ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 15:06:00 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Lawrence Cooke Organization: Dolores Door&Trim Subject: Ment Oils Comments: To: Bee's Bee MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have been on the list for a short time so I probably missed some talk about using meant oils for mites but, I would like to know if there is anything to it. Thanks Lawrence Cooke ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 17:46:53 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Midnite Bee Subject: do bees have antlike intelligence MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee I am unable to answer this person's question. I am most intersted in hearing the List's reply. You could also e-mail Robert directly. Robert Simkunas II Fri Aug 1 16:54:22 1997 Location: Nacogdoches, Texas E-mail: F_Simkunascj@TITAN.SFASU.EDU Comments: My interest in beekeeping started with my passion for plant life. I am 23 and have grown and collected plants for the past 9 years. It was not until resently that I became interested in beekeeping, but I have yet to start my own hive and hope to do so between Feb. and March of 98. Lately I have been propagating my plants, espesially tomatos, and it is a hassle pollinating with a brush going from flower to flower. So I thought about hiring some WORKERS to do the job for me. Right now I am in the process of researching infomation on beekeeping and so far have found the MidniteBee website to...bee...quite resourceful. I do have one worry though. I am a CARNIVOROUS PLANT freak. I am not worried about American pitchers or the venus fly trap picking on my bees because the pitcher traps are too small for a bee to drown in and venus fly traps are generally too small to catch a bee. I am worried about the Nepenthaceae family which do produce large pitchers some of witch are known to swallow rats! But I beleive the biggest problem are the Sundews because they sercret sugery sticky mucilage drops that cover the leaves. This not only traps the insects, but it also attracts them like most carnivorous plants that use nectar like substances to lure their prey. My question is; do bees have antlike intelligence and will learn to stay away from these plants or will they keep falling victim like a dumb fly. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:09:34 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables >>> From: Rett Thorpe >>> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU >>> Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables >>> Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 12:19 PM Rett: Seems like there is a lot of interest in your collection of fables. If you like, I have a website-3 in 1 actually, one of which is on Honey Bees. If you have a browser, you could send me this collection zipped up, I'll put it up on my server and then give anyone interested the correct ftp address so they can download them. Al, ----------------------------------------------------------- awneedham@juno.com - Scituate,MA,USA Cerberus - Three Sites In One Honey Bees-LottoLand-Doktor Finkle http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 19:15:35 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mark Franklin Almond Subject: Old Beekeeping Fables MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I guess I missed informed or everyone took me wrong. I am looking for some beekeeping fables. I know there were some in the American Bee Journal a year or two ago. I thought someone of the over 500 subscribers would have read these fables. I gave all the information I have on where to find them and the column writer in my first message I sent to BEE-L. I will combine mine when when someone makes an effort to help me." WANTS SOMETHING FOR NOTHING" Lets see what happens now? Mark F. Almond Concord, NC malmond@ctc.net ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 01:46:08 UT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garry Libby Subject: Re: Paraffin wax for preserving bee boxes Try a product called Penetrol manufactured by the Flood Co.It is usually used as an additive in oil paints to make it brush on easier,but is an excellant wood preservative.I let it air dry for a week then You can paint it,it can be used inside covers also. Garry Libby Boston,USA LibBEE@msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 21:56:58 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Juergen Jaenicke Subject: bees emitting radiation? I recently got an article for publication translated from the original Tsech about bees emitting healthy radiation. It comes from a scientific tsech journal and seems to be taken seriously by some university types. Before I go ahead and publish it I like to throw it out to the beekeepers out thre including the university folks. Has anyone heard about this? Juergen Jaenicke, Beeline editor ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 09:57:33 +0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Alan Norris Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Wife wanted must be able to cook and make love and have own honey extractor. Send photo of extractor. At 07:22 2/08/97 -0400, you wrote: >My wife said if I didn't stop messing with my bees she was leaving, Im >going to miss her. > >---------- >> From: Jim Arthur >> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU >> Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables >> Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 11:26 AM >> >> Sounds like fun.... >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> Wife and Dog missing >> Reward for Dog >> ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> On Fri, 1 Aug 1997, Rett Thorpe wrote: >> >> > > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have collected >> > > over >> > > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to know if >> > > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to >share >> > > >> > Mark >> > I cant speak for any of the others on the list, but I would be >> > interested in reading the stories that you currently have. Would you >be >> > willing to put them in a file and send them either to the list, or to >me >> > directly? >> > Anyone else interested? >> > Thanks >> > Rett Thorpe >> > Salt Lake City, Utah >> > > > ANLEC PTY LTD Project Electrical Inspection and Supervision ,-._|\ Alan Norris Tel: 08 9448 7471 / Oz \ anlec@iinet.net.au Mobile:041 791 7144 \_,--._/ Perth Australia Fax: 08 9448 5014 v ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 10:11:36 +0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Alan Norris Subject: Re: Moving Beehives Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 11:02 2/08/97 +0100, you wrote: >I am a beginner. I need to re organise my apiary a bit. The ideal answer is >to move two of my hives forward of their present position by about 8 feet >(240cm). > >I can wait until the bees are quiet in the Winter if necessary. > >Can any one give me suggestions please > Tom just move them forward about a foot each day. I have found the evening the best time to move them. Alan Norris >Tom Barrett >49 South Park >Foxrock >Dublin 18 >Ireland > >e mail cssl@iol.ie > > ANLEC PTY LTD Project Electrical Inspection and Supervision ,-._|\ Alan Norris Tel: 08 9448 7471 / Oz \ anlec@iinet.net.au Mobile:041 791 7144 \_,--._/ Perth Australia Fax: 08 9448 5014 v ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 22:13:47 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul Cronshaw, D.C." Subject: Re: brood comb to Honey comb Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Allen, One question: Is there ever a concern or caution to putting brood combs exposed to Apistan into a honey collecting position? Our previous discussions on this list have lead me to understand that Apistan ingredients are locked into the wax and will not leach out into the honey. However, I have never seen a discussion or study to date that tests for Apistan residuals in honey. Is there such a study? I keep thinking about the Apple Alar case and I hate to think that honey will become subjected to random testings by governemnt agencies to assure consumption. Paul Cronshaw DC Cyberchiro and Hobby Beekeeper Santa Barbara, CA Allen Dick wrote: > ... I make no distinction between brood comb, and honey comb. To carry this further, we don't worry about using brood combs for honey. In fact that is exactly what we do with brood combs that are misshapen, warped or getting too full of drone cells. We just put them above the excluder and they work for many more years. Our honey invariably grades 'water white'. For extraction, the perfection of combs is entirely unimportant to us as long as they are not so bent that honey cannot escape in a radial extractor. We *do* fuss about our brood frames, though, and have found that if we use too many white 'honey' frames in a new brood chamber that it has a very negative effect on buildup and wintering until the bees have occupied them for a year or two. Freshly drawn foundation does not seem to have the same effect. The bees apparently have preferences exactly oppose those of beekeepers: I have heard that they much perfer to store honey in dark comb and raise brood in new white comb. Seems to fit with my experience. Allen ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 22:25:16 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul Cronshaw, D.C." Subject: Re: Gloves Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Curtis, I too used to use gloves and now have graduate to no gloves except on mean hives. However, propolis on the fingers becomes a problem that needs to be cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol. Carry around a small amount in a glass vial with your bee equipment to clean off your hands. OR try something as others have suggested = surgical gloves. Keeps the dexterity, no sting odors, easy to slip in and off and helpful for handling Apistan strips. Paul Cronshaw DC Cyebrchiro and Hobby beekeeper Santa Barbara, CA I find that using s> From: Curtis Atkinson > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Gloves > Date: 28 juil. 1997 04:24 > > I have seen picutures of bee keepers not wearing gloves. When I try > to do that, i always get stung. Am I missing something? > > > Curtis Atkinson > 2701 S. Caraway > Jonesboro, Ar 72401 > 501-932-7838 > catkinson@intellinet.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 20:38:40 +0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: filtering honey Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In response to the request for a posting to Bee-L on tips for preparation of honey for competition: >I am entering 4 different types of honey in the county fair next >week. My lightest honey has very fine, suspended particles in it >which I can't seem to get out. I have filtered it through gross and >fine filters, the last one being a women's stocking. I think these >suspended particles are fine pollen specks. It is most visible in >the lightest honey. Does anyone have a method for clearing up this >honey? I have let it sit in the sun for a few days and seemed to >help with the air bubbles but not the specks of pollen. >If anyone has an idea on how to clear this up, please e-mail me >directly. I am doing me best to beat the person who has won most >all of the honey and beeswax catagories for the last 300 years. 1. Select light coloured freshly sealed combs for extraction and extract separately. 2. Do not use any form of heat during extraction. 3. Put honey aside to settle for at least 2 weeks and then take off honey from tap at bottom of tank. This will clear the pollen particles suspended therein. The top 6 inches of honey should always be filtered separately. 4. Warm and filter the honey through a fine gauze. This is more to remove debris than pollen. 5. Select jars without imperfections and examine lid very carefully for scratches or blemishes. 6. Keep jars in warm room, out of direct sunlight. Honeys are judged on being true to type, viscosity, aroma, colour and clarity. In the absence of specific classes for honey type or colour grade, lighter honeys score higher than darker. I do not extract separately as in suggestion 1 but still win 1st and 2nd each year at the local show against beekeepers who have been working hives for 40 years. I need to work harder on my creamed honey though - last year this class was won by a newbie beekeeper with 2 hives - :( I can't think of anything else you can do to improve your entry for this year - but there is always next year! Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: Moving Beehives Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >I am a beginner. I need to re organise my apiary a bit. The ideal answer is >to move two of my hives forward of their present position by about 8 feet >(240cm). > If the hives are to be moved in a straight line without altering greatly the bees orientation marks (trees, bushes, buildings) the hives could just be moved a foot a day. You do not need to wait till winter for such small movements but do not move more than three foot at a time. If there are orientation features used by the bees an alternative is to move the hives 2 miles away until the bees re-orient and then back to the desired location. Hives must be moved at night when bees have ceased flying. 2 weeks to a month is long enough for bees to re-orient and they will not be confused when moved back to the home apiary. Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Moving Beehives In a message dated 97-08-03 07:08:10 EDT, you write: << >I am a beginner. I need to re organise my apiary a bit. The ideal answer is >to move two of my hives forward of their present position by about 8 feet >(240cm). > If the hives are to be moved in a straight line without altering greatly the bees orientation marks (trees, bushes, buildings) the hives could just be moved a foot a day. You do not need to wait till winter for such small movements but do not move more than three foot at a time. >> I more or less agree but see no reason why these hive could not be moved their 8' total in two moves a couple days apart es[ecially considering that there are only a couple hives and it is a straight line move. Another thing can be accomplished at the same time and that is the equalisation of the hive strengths by switching the hives with each other when moving them so that if one hive is weaker than the other it gets strengthened by the strong hives field bees. If you are just moving the hives do it in the evening with less field bees out of the hives. If you are equalising then switch hives during the strongest flight period. Tom ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 08:32:55 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Greg Hankins Subject: Re: do bees have antlike intelligence In-Reply-To: <199708022143.RAA26225@hitchhike.cybertours.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >My question is; do bees have antlike intelligence and >will learn to stay away from these plants or will they keep falling victim >like a dumb fly. I can't answer this one directly, bu I can recommend a really wonderful book on bee intelligence. It's called "The Honey Bee" and is by James L. Gould and Carol Grant Gould. I bought it as a Scientific American Library Paperback. The title page says the Scientific American Library is a division of HPHLP, New York. ISBN# is ISBN 0-7167-5023-6 (hardaback) and ISBN 0-7167-6010-X (Paperback). Distributor is W.H. Freeman & Comapny, New York and Oxford. The authors have apparently spent much time doing and reading research that begins with Von Frisch's discovery of the dance language and moves from there to an amazing investiagtion of all aspects of honey bee communication, intelligence, and learning. There are chapters on the dance langaguage (and the controversy surrounding it), on bee navigation, on how bees recognize flowers (color, shape, smell) and on how bee physiology manages to support such seemingly complex mental processes. Some parts are technical enough to require close reading by a non-scientist, but these are the exception rather than the rule. One strong point of the book is the regular description of the experiments used to come to particular conclusions about how bees perceive the world and communicate their perceptions to other bees. Having a window onto *how* the conclusions were reached gives the reader much greater confidence in the authors than would a simple assertion. On the whole, the book is very well written for a lay audience that doesn't mind stretching their neurons a bit. I'm not related to the authors or their publishing company, and I don't own a bookstore -- I just think this is a great book for any beekeeper who wants to know more about how bees work. -------- On the carnivorous plant front, I can't imagine, unless you have a whole field full, that the plants could eat enough bees to adversely affect a colony of tens of thousands of bees. Greg ____________________________________________________ Greg Hankins Mt. Gilead, NC ghankins@ac.net ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 07:37:28 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: brood comb to Honey comb Comments: To: "Paul Cronshaw, D.C." In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > ...Is there ever a concern or caution to putting brood combs exposed to > Apistan into a honey collecting position? > > Our previous discussions on this list have lead me to understand that > Apistan ingredients are locked into the wax and will not leach out into > the honey. However, I have never seen a discussion or study to date that > tests for Apistan residues in honey. Is there such a study?... Well, I'm not an expert on this; maybe Max will respond since it is his baby, but in the meantime, since this was addressed to me, I'll take a whack at it and hope that others will add their perspectives. First, I haven't used Apistan (R) since the eighties when a gov't inspector sampled our hives to determine if varroa existed here. As of yet it does not. However, I do actually plan to use some Apistan next week on the hives into which I dump our bees from the honey house windows since I need to see if any varroa has appeared locally, and will try this in addition to the alcohol wash samples we do in the yards when checking tracheal mites. Having said that, what I understand from reading is that fluvalinate comes in both water soluble and non water soluble forms. The fluvalinate in Apistan (R) is of the latter type and is thus not nearly as prone to get into honey as it is into wax. In fact wax would likely tend to draw it from honey on long exposure. Additionally, fluvalinate is a pyrethroid. Pyrethroids are not very toxic to warm-blooded critters such as most humans, but quite deadly to cold-blooded ones such as insects, lizards and fish. It is a fluke that fluvalinate was found to be one pyrethroid that had relatively minor effects on honeybees while having the normal toxicity to other insects and varroa mites. (I wonder why it does not affect tracheal mites -- or does it?) Anyhow, with Apistan, very minute, measured doses are used for limited periods of time in beehives. Indeed in the process, some fluvalinate does get dissolved in beeswax and apparently levels build over time. However, since the attraction to wax and oil based substances is much stronger than to a water based substance such as honey, honey will not hold any significant amount in the presence of wax. It's a question of mixing oil and water. Apistan use is much more a problem for wax buyers and sellers, since beeswaxes are used in cosmetics and foods, and fluvalinate residues are becoming ubiquitous in waxes from Apistan using countries. On the other hand there are other types of fluvalinate that *are* water soluble -- and I assume much less soluble in oil and wax -- that have caused problems for beekeepers. I believe Mavrik (R) contains one of those water based types and is intended for spraying on field crops (Please correct me if I'm wrong). Homemade treatments using strips of plywood, etc. soaked in Mavrik have been utilized by some who wished to avoid the rather high cost of Apistan (R). (Mavrik is very cheap). This practice has resulted in a number of problems and is also implicated in the development of fluvalinate resistance in varroa. Such water based types of fluvalinate are also much much more likely to be found in honey, since they are soluble in honey and not attracted to the wax. At any rate, honey destined for the supers is often first placed in the brood chamber by the bees, then moved up, so at honey flow time, you can figure that anything in the brood chamber will potentially affect your honey. Is there a danger? In terms of health, likely not. In terms of PR, perhaps. Could we have another 'Alar' scare? Again, perhaps, but I think that the public is now much more wise than at the time of the Alar scare. Very few people today believe that they can buy food without a molecule or two of some form of pesticide or drug in it. In recent years modern science has shown that it can find the equivalent of a marble in a gymnasium when it seeks 'foreign' molecules in foods. At spraying time in this agricultural district, the amount of herbicide in the air from evaporation was such that sensitive crops miles from spraying were wilting a bit. Since Chernobyl and Three Mile Island and now Pickering, people have become inured to the knowledge that radiation gets around. Nonetheless general public health and longevity has never been at higher levels in North America. Honey processors are very careful about the products they buy and sell, and are constantly checking for fluvalinate residues among other things. I have not heard of any loads being rejected or even questioned for fluvalinate. Does that mean that honey is safe from a panic? Nothing is, but I believe that such events are somewhat random; we've had the somewhat vague and inconclusive botulism thing around for years and for most people the reaction is 'Ho hum'. Allen ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 23:37:45 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Speight Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 31 Jul 1997 to 1 Aug 1997 In-Reply-To: <870494511.0624381.0@uacsc2.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 In message <870494511.0624381.0@uacsc2.albany.edu>, Automatic digest processor writes >I,too, would like to read these fables. > > Eunice > >---------- >> From: Rett Thorpe >> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU >> Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables >> Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 12:19 PM >> >> > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables Come on, Rett. Let's all know hear them -- Tom Speight ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 09:58:08 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Robert J. Cessac" Subject: Re: walnut toxicity In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hi Jennifer, I have constructed a bee hive from walnut lumber that I am currently using this year. I installed bees from a locust tree that came from about 30 miles away. This hive swarmed a couple of times that I know of and I caught each one. I varnished the hive so it might be the heat that caused it to swarm, being dark walnut. I am in a area with mites, in Missouri. I have used Apistan this spring and mineral oil this summer but will try to do without next spring. This would be interesting research because I have plenty of walnut lumber on hand. My neighbor also has a bee hive in a walnut tree that has been there for two years which had many bees this year. I will try to catch swarms from it next spring and determine if it had mites. Will keep in tuch and let you know how this goes. Bob K-B Ranch Natural Beef 2362 St. Rt. O Higbee, MO. 65257 rcessac@mail.coin.missouri.edu On Mon, 28 Jul 1997, Jennifer Louise Pehanich wrote: > Hello. My name is Jenn Pehanich, I am a senior at the Penn State > University majoring in Forest Science. This summer I am working at our > Forest Resources Lab and agriculture extension office. We received a > call from the regional honey bee inspector who had an interesting > question we are trying to find information on. This gentleman has found > a colony that appears to be free of mites, he is currently checking to > be positive. But the interesting thing is the colony is in a black > walnut tree. We were wondering if the toxins in the walnut have some > effect of why the mites haven't got to the bees yet. If you have an > information it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe some ideas could be > tossed around also. Thank you for your time. > > Jenn > > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 08:58:53 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ken Coyle Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rett Thorpe wrote: > > > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have collected > > over > > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to know if > > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to share > > > Mark If you could send me a file on these fables I would put them on my homepage. -- Ken Coyle If you can't fix it with duct tape, why bother? kcoyle@hookup.net http://www.hookup.net/~kcoyle ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 21:20:39 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "luichart.woollens@virgin.net" Organization: Luichart Woollens Subject: Re: do bees have antlike intelligence MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greg Hankins wrote: > > >My question is; do bees have antlike intelligence and > >will learn to stay away from these plants or will they keep falling victim > >like a dumb fly. > Am I missing something here? It seems to me that if the bee gets eaten by the plant then that is the end of the bee!! No matter how intelligent is was it will be unable to communicate any warning to any of its friends. How does the ant cope in this situation. Is it something to do with their sent trails or have they the ability to communicate from the dead? -- Harry Scotland Knitwear Web pages: http://freespace.virgin.net/luichart.woollens/ ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 21:25:46 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Multiple Sclerosis amd Bee Stings Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am wondering if there is any benefit to be obtained by a sufferer of Multiple Sclerosis, in exposing himself to bee stings. I am a beekeeper and a good friend of mine who lives quite close to me, suffers from this terrible disease. I would be most grateful on behalf of ny friend, if anyone in the BEE-Line has any experience one way or the other on this. Sincerely Tom Barrett 49 South Park Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland e mail: cssl@iol.ie ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 14:42:17 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: jasman-James Cleveland Subject: : Discussion of Bee Biology Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Tom: Yes I also have ms, and I have started BVT- Bee Venom Therapy I have not done it long enough to get full results, but I have noticed little things. One must understand that it is not an overnight cure, but it is for real.My name is Jim Cleveland from Canada. If you would like to find out the real success story, from the lady who knows: Pat Wagner beelady@olg.com She also has written a book that is very beneficial. Good Luck Jim: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 14:41:50 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: Multiple Sclerosis amd Bee Stings In-Reply-To: <199708032025.VAA16567@mail.iol.ie> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 09:25 PM 8/3/97 +0100, you wrote: >I am wondering if there is any benefit to be obtained by a sufferer of >Multiple Sclerosis, in exposing himself to bee stings. I am a beekeeper Try a search in: http://www.newsworks.com/ You should find some recent press releases and news story's about MS & bee stings. Good Luck, ttul Andy- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 20:52:22 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Multiple Sclerosis amd Bee Stings This may come over as a hypertext link but I will give the address as well BeeOnline - The online publication of the Amer ican Apitherapy Society http://www.beesting.com/ So far the beestings have not killed me which is nice as I enjoy the hobby. As far as apitherapy goes I am sure it has killed less people this year than mainstream medicine. Tom ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 21:00:10 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: bartlett Subject: Re: Multiple Sclerosis amd Bee Stings Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Dear Tom, Try the American apitherpy Assoc. Get on the web to locate their site. billy bee ---------- > From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Multiple Sclerosis amd Bee Stings > Date: 3 ao{t 1997 16:25 > > I am wondering if there is any benefit to be obtained by a sufferer of > Multiple Sclerosis, in exposing himself to bee stings. I am a beekeeper and > a good friend of mine who lives quite close to me, suffers from this > terrible disease. I would be most grateful on behalf of ny friend, if anyone > in the BEE-Line has any experience one way or the other on this. > > Sincerely > Tom Barrett > 49 South Park > Foxrock > Dublin 18 > Ireland > > e mail: cssl@iol.ie ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 22:34:11 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: steven albritton Subject: Chemical Kill Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have just ben wiped out. I started with two hives last year and built up to 16. Last week my landlord put out diazion granuales and by tuesday I believe I will be completely wiped out. My next problem is how to clean up and can I save the drawn comb? I also assume the Honey in the supers should be distroyed? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 23:25:03 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Dave from Scranton Subject: Re: A Lesson Learned In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Fri, 25 Jul 1997, Robert Watson wrote: > I wrote a while ago about getting stung several times in my left hand > while hiving a swarm, this May. > My hand swelled up rather large, and by the next day the swelling was > going up my arm. > I was convinced by some people that I should get some medical help. > I was give Prednisone. > The swelling went down eventually - I wondered if the drug made any > difference. Prednisone is a steroid, it reduces swelling. I got some last September when I got stung in the vein in my wrist. The swelling started up my arm and the next day my wrist was 4 times its normal side. I decided to go to the hospital at that point. I got stung twice after than with no problem. ****************************************************************************** Dave D. Cawley, Maitre d' | The Internet Cafe | Scranton, Pennsylvania | (717) 344-1969 | dave@scranton.com | ****************************************************************************** URL => http://www.scranton.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 02:01:58 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: The Bankses Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables Me too. Bet most of the list would be interested - Yes? Wahkon On Fri, 1 Aug 1997 20:06:33 -0500 "Elizabeth M. Bowles" writes: >DITTO on the fables > >---------- >> From: Eunice Wonnacott >> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU >> Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables >> Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 7:45 PM >> >> I,too, would like to read these fables. >> >> Eunice >> >> ---------- >> > From: Rett Thorpe >> > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU >> > Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables >> > Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 12:19 PM >> > >> > > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have >collected >> > > over >> > > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to >know if >> > > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to >share >> > > >> > Mark >> > I cant speak for any of the others on the list, but I >would be >> > interested in reading the stories that you currently have. Would >you >be >> > willing to put them in a file and send them either to the list, or >to >me >> > directly? >> > Anyone else interested? >> > Thanks >> > Rett Thorpe >> > Salt Lake City, Utah > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 21:14:16 +0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: do bees have antlike intelligence Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am a >CARNIVOROUS PLANT freak. I am not worried about American pitchers or the >venus fly trap picking on my bees because the pitcher traps are too small >for a bee to drown in and venus fly traps are generally too small to catch >a bee. I am worried about the Nepenthaceae family which do produce large >pitchers some of witch are known to swallow rats! But I beleive the biggest >problem are the Sundews because they sercret sugery sticky mucilage drops >that cover the leaves. This not only traps the insects, but it also >attracts them like most carnivorous plants that use nectar like substances >to lure their prey. My question is; do bees have antlike intelligence and >will learn to stay away from these plants or will they keep falling victim >like a dumb fly. Flowers that require pollination have developed their own signals - I think it works something like ultraviolet reflection on petals pointing the way to a feed. I doubt that sun-dews will be a major hazard since bees rely on foragers returning to hives to indicate where nectar is to be found. Carnivorous plants may snare random bees but individual bees are only a very small part of the hive organism. I believe bees are preferentially attracted to white flowers, then blue and yellow. Sundews do not require a great deal of prey to sustain life - it is more supplementing soil deficiencies. I am not even sure that they would be strong enough to trap a bee - I usually see only very small insects being digested. Each field bee has a foraging life of only 2 - 4 weeks in heavy nectar flow conditions. I expect the result of bringing in hives to be mutually beneficial to bees and carnivorous plants - more food all round. Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John M Thorp Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables Yes,sounds like fun. Would they de anything like "Esop's" or "Esop's"? Take Care and GBY,John in Homestead,also at On Mon, 4 Aug 1997 02:01:58 -0500 The Bankses writes: >Me too. Bet most of the list would be interested - Yes? >Wahkon > >On Fri, 1 Aug 1997 20:06:33 -0500 "Elizabeth M. Bowles" > writes: >>DITTO on the fables >> >>---------- >>> From: Eunice Wonnacott >>> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU >>> Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables >>> Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 7:45 PM >>> >>> I,too, would like to read these fables. >>> >>> Eunice >>> >>> ---------- >>> > From: Rett Thorpe >>> > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU >>> > Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables >>> > Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 12:19 PM >>> > >>> > > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have >>collected >>> > > over >>> > > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to >>know if >>> > > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like >to >>share >>> > > >>> > Mark >>> > I cant speak for any of the others on the list, but I >>would be >>> > interested in reading the stories that you currently have. Would >>you >>be >>> > willing to put them in a file and send them either to the list, >or >>to >>me >>> > directly? >>> > Anyone else interested? >>> > Thanks >>> > Rett Thorpe >>> > Salt Lake City, Utah >> ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 09:18:04 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Rett Thorpe Subject: Fables MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Several people have been telling me they would like to see "My" fables. I do not have this collection. It was Mark Franklin Almond who said he had the stories. I only said that I would like to read them. Rett Thorpe ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 13:41:15 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Verville Subject: Honey Robber or Bee go MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just as my luck would have it! In need of some bee go or honey robber. So I order some and UPS goes on strick! Currently sitting in Hartford CT. Need a couple of cups (pint). Any one in the greater Hartford area or a short drive off of Route 84 North to the MA line? Dave Verville ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 15:49:52 -0400 Reply-To: Bob Billson Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bob Billson Organization: my honeybees are more organized than me! :-) Subject: how do I figure price? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Okay, time for another newbie question from me. :-) A couple of folks in my area are interested in buying some of my honey. I figure I will get about 6 supers of honey altogether from my first year. Quite a nice surprise! I think I will have a few spare jars I can sell. :-) It's not economical for me to go out and buy 1 pound jars right now. However, I do have quite a few 1 pint, canning jars. These hold just a little more than a 1 pound jar. Being only a hobbyist beekeeper selling isn't at the top of my priority list. However, I realize others do depend on getting decent price for their honey. I certainly don't want to hurt them or myself by selling cheap, nor do I want to rip-off customers. I tried comparing prices in stores but the range is quite wide. The big chain food stores are at the low end and 'health food' stores at the high end. So how do I figure a fair retail price for my 1 pint jars of honey? Bob -- Bob Billson, KC2WZ email: kc2wz@intercall.net (\ MS-DOS, you can't live with it. You can live without it. /) {|||8- Linux: World domination. Fast. -8|||} (/ \} ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 15:25:14 -0400 Reply-To: Bob Billson Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bob Billson Organization: my honeybees are more organized than me! :-) Subject: follow-up to dying bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Thanks to everyone who answered my cry for help last weekend! My Buckfast colony seems back to normal. I still have not figured out what did kill the two handfuls of bees. From the advice I received, I narrowed the cause down to two possibilities: poisoning or natural dying. The first case is almost impossible to prove in my area. The second cause never occurred to me (as a newbie). After working hard foraging for the last few weeks, the bees just died naturally and, by coincidence, at the same time. I always figured the bees died a few at a time when they 'wore out'. Guess I'll never really know true cause. Sure scared me though! Ever since the scare, both colonies have been foraging like crazy. I have no idea where they are going, but their going somewhere. :) I put one super with foundation on each to see if they were producing any more surplus. Was this a mistake? I don't plan on taking any Fall honey. I was going to let the bees keep it all for themselves. I also want to treat the colonies for mites at the right time, which I gather is late summer. So should keep the supers on until the bees stop foraging as heavily as they are? Or should I remove the supers now and deal with any mite problems? Thanks for the advice. Bob -- Bob Billson, KC2WZ email: kc2wz@intercall.net (\ MS-DOS, you can't live with it. You can live without it. /) {|||8- Linux: World domination. Fast. -8|||} (/ \} ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 17:17:07 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "W. G. Miller" Subject: Re: Gloves Mike, The Montgomery County honey. for 1997 is about as you describe for Baltimore Co. I got some dandilion very early in the year, then no locust, and a decent clover flow with enough Tulip Poplar mixed in to give the resuling honey some color. The honey flow was very late (ending about July 10), with an average yield of about 70 lb/colony. W. G. Miller Gaithersburg, MD ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 19:53:02 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Martin Braunstein Subject: Re: bees emitting radiation? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable No, it's the first time in my life I hear about this issue. Mart=EDn Braunstein Malka Caba=F1a Ap=EDcola e-mail: malka@webnet.com.ar ---------- > From: Juergen Jaenicke > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: bees emitting radiation? > Date: s=E1bado 2 de agosto de 1997 19:56 >=20 > I recently got an article for publication translated from the original > Tsech about bees emitting healthy radiation. > It comes from a scientific tsech journal and seems to be taken seriousl= y > by some university types. > Before I go ahead and publish it I like to throw it out to the beekeepe= rs out > thre including the university folks. > Has anyone heard about this? > Juergen Jaenicke, Beeline editor ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 20:00:34 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Martin Braunstein Subject: Re: Paraffin wax for preserving bee boxes MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Trevor, Thanks for your information. Best regards. Mart=EDn Braunstein Malka Caba=F1a Ap=EDcola e-mail: malka@webnet.com.ar ---------- > From: Trevor Weatherhead > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Paraffin wax for preserving bee boxes > Date: s=E1bado 2 de agosto de 1997 4:24 >=20 > There was work published by Kalnins and Detroy in the late 70's in the > American Bee Journal ( I think) that showed paraffin wax was not very > successful as a preservative. >=20 > Here in Australia, there have been beekeepers who have used paraffin wa= x for > preserving bee boxes but they did not last more than 4 or 5 years. The= re are > several factors to look at when it comes to judging how long something can > preserve a bee box for. >=20 > Firstly, there is the natural decay hazard existing in your area. If i= t is > not high, then even untreated timber will last a long time. >=20 > Secondly, there is the natural durability of the timber being used. He= re in > Australia, natural occuring hoop pine used to be used for bee boxes.=20 This has > a lot higher natural durability that the plantation grown hoop pine whi= ch is > the most common timber used nowadays. There is also plantation grown radiata > pine which has a very low natural durability. >=20 > I have been told by beekeepers who visited New Zealand many years ago that the > beekeepers were first treating their boxes with copper naphthenate befo= re > treating with paraffin wax. This is why the wax solution was green.=20 There > has been an article published in Australia that says that boxes treated with > copper naphthenate should not be hot wax dipped in paraffin. It is something > to do with the volatiles produce by heating the copper naphthenate. >=20 > In summary, our experience here in Australia is that in high decay haza= rd > areas, hot wax dipping of boxes with paraffin wax does not extent the life of > the box very much. >=20 > Trevor Weatherhead > AUSTRALIA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 21:59:24 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: James D Satterfield Subject: Honey Press MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: MULTIPART/MIXED; BOUNDARY="-559023410-851401618-870744284=:9631" This message is in MIME format. The first part should be readable text, while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools. Send mail to mime@docserver.cac.washington.edu for more info. ---559023410-851401618-870744284=:9631 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-ID: Bob Billison sent the following message to me regarding the honey press on the tbh website at the url: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm I tried to respond to him directly, but for some reason the email address wouldn't go through. I'm posting my response to the list since some of the information may be of interest to others. I am hopeful that Bob will pick up this response, that he doesn't mind me posting his initial inquiry. On Mon, 4 Aug 1997, Bob Billson wrote: > I was looking at your pixs and instructions on the simple honey press on > your Web page. Quite a clever idea! This is my first year as a > beekeeper. I certain could use a honey press this year as I'm just making > cut comb honey. I can see I'll have a construction project for the coming > winter. :-) Wonderful! I'll bet you enjoy using a press. > I have a few questions about your press. What type of wood did you use > for the plates? I would suspect woods like pine would add a taste to the > honey? What are the dimensions of the press? It is kind of hard to > guessimate from the pixs the true size. The plates were from an old formica table top. The plates measure 15x23 inches. You could probably make the plates from most anything then face them with some material that wouldn't affect taste. The table top appears to be 3/4 or 1 inch plywood with 1/16 inch formica laminated. The press is 50 inches high, about 32 inches wide. You should be able to make it smaller. The press is built from scrap 2x4's. I have attached a larger .jpg file that may give you a clearer image. (Note: I have not attached the .jpg to this posting. If any of you would like to see it, contact me directly.) > > Are there any other suggestions you can offer for improvements or > 'gotchas' you didn't anticipate? > Bob, the handle with the blue knob is only about 4.5 inches long. The blue knob is from an outside faucet. I think a wheel might be easier to use, or at least a door knob in place of the faucet knob. > Thanks for making the info available to beekeepers! > My pleasure. If you'll make some photos of your press, I'd be happy to post them to the website. Meanwhile, keep me advised of your adventures. Cordially yours, Jim ---------------------------------------------------------------- | James D. Satterfield | E-Mail: jsatt@gsu.edu | | 258 Ridge Pine Drive --------------------------------| | Canton, GA 30114, USA Canton is about 40 mi/64 km | | Telephone (770) 479-4784 north of Altanta, Georgia USA | | | | TBH Beekeeping Website: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm | ---------------------------------------------------------------- ---559023410-851401618-870744284=:9631-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 20:15:45 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: how do I figure price? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Get as much as you can. You are going to a lot of trouble to=20 package it up and make it attractive, and people are happy to pay a = premium to=20 buy from the source. =20 Many people will consider your honey a bargain at any price. On the = other hand, there are a few people who won't buy if there's anything in = the supermarket for less. You don't have to sell to them any more than they have to buy = from you!=20 =20 You're only ripping people off if you hold a gun to their heads or lie = to them. Obviously I'm an advocate of free enterprise and the open market. Go for it! Michael ---------- A couple of folks in my area are interested in buying some of my honey. = I figure I will get about 6 supers of honey altogether from my first year. Quite a nice surprise! I think I will have a few spare jars I can sell. = :-) It's not economical for me to go out and buy 1 pound jars right now. However, I do have quite a few 1 pint, canning jars. These hold just a little more than a 1 pound jar. Being only a hobbyist beekeeper selling isn't at the top of my priority list. However, I realize others do depend on getting decent price for their honey. I certainly don't want to hurt them or myself by selling cheap, nor do I want to rip-off customers. I tried comparing prices in stores but the range is quite wide. The big chain food stores are at the low end and 'health food' stores at the = high end. So how do I figure a fair retail price for my 1 pint jars of honey? ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 22:19:23 -0700 Reply-To: cspacek@flash.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Curtis Spacek Subject: Re: sweet clover seed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit me too ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 23:13:12 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Crazy project MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable A while back I described my plans to take a free hanging colony from the = top of a tree directly above a city street. Last Friday was the day the deed was = done, and it went almost without a hitch. The city cherry picker was fantastic! = I want one!!! The operator was very calm and well suited for the job. He put me right = in position and it was very easy to cut the combs and lower them to my = partner on the ground using a large plastic bucket on a rope. =20 Thanks to Conrad Berube for the great suggestion for how to preserve the = comb intact, rather than fitting sections into frames. =20 We basically built a modified top bar hive and slung each=20 comb under a top bar with a sort of hammock of duct tape and cotton twine. It worked remarkably well and the colony is busy at our = 4-H yard now. Almost all the comb was in brood, and well covered with bees, and = there were 5 combs averaging about 16" x 16". These bees weren't putting away = much honey, which made the comb remarkably light and easy to handle. It was = also quite flexible and more durable than I expected. The end of the branch was hollow, about 5" inside diameter by about 18" = long, and full of comb as well. We cut it off and brought it home. The only problem we encountered was that the shutter on my camera stuck = open and I didn't get much of it on film. Turns out I bumped the switch for = time-lapse photography with a gloved hand and didn't realize what had happened until later - a big disappointment since I was planning to put the = project on the Web. Oh well :( We had the usual compliment of spectators, and the bees behaved very = well. And I think every truck in the city fleet drove by at least once to see = what was=20 going on. Far more remarkable to me than the beekeeping aspects of this project = was the level of cooperation we got from the city (a city that by ordinance, = forbids beekeeping, by the way). I never expected to get the cherry = picker. =20 I expected that since we didn't work for the city they would be too=20 worried about liability to allow us up in the bucket. =20 Not only did they let us go up, but they let us use their special chainsaw to trim the branch while we were up there. I guess the = alternative was for one of them to do it. The biggest lesson for me = from this project was that sometimes you get what you ask for even if you think you don't stand any = chance to get it. Sometimes you get a pleasant surprise. =20 Michael ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 09:16:16 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: acacia question Hi all This message is probably directed more at the temperate and tropical zone people who have knowledge of the australian acacia flowers. In my part of south africa we have a bit of an invasion of the australina acacia, acacia longifolia. I have four beehives in an area surrounded bby this plant that are doing mindblowingly well. (Middle of winter and have just filled a deep super each in two weeks.) The only reason I can think of for this happening is the acacia's which are in flower. The problem is that I have been told that acacia l is only good for pollen? Any comments? Also, these bees are rather aggressive. I opened one hive and they went AWOL stinging things up to a hundred meters away, so maybe whatever flow it is it has contaminants of isopentyl acetate or something in it too? Keep well Garth --- Garth Cambray "Opinions expressed in this post may be those 15 Park Road of Pritz, my cat, who knows a lot about Grahamstown catfood." 6140 *garth@rucus.ru.ac.za* South Africa Phone 27-0461-311663 In general, generalisations are bad. But don't worry BEEEEEE happy. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 07:25:59 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Repost: Best of BEE-L MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Subscribing to 'Best of Bee' will bring you only selected and edited posts from BEE-L. This is a reduction of 10 to 90% in mail flow (about 85% in recent days). This option is best suited to experienced or professional beekeepers and others who wish to avoid very basic discussions, chatter, flames, misdirected posts, long quotes and 'me too' responses but still track the significant activity on the BEE-L mailing list. How to receive Best of Bee: Send email to HoneyBee@systronix.net, saying JOIN BESTOFBEE you@whatever.com (where 'you@whatever.com' is the email address to which you want the list to be sent). If you are a BEE-L subscriber and want to turn off BEE-L without losing the privilege of posting to BEE-L (in response to the messages received on 'Best of Bee'), send email to LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU saying SET BEE-L NOMAIL. There are currently 256 subscribers to Best of Bee. For more information, send email to bees@systronix.net, saying SEND BESTBEE in the subject line. You will receive a somewhat text file in return. For those who want to know more about the selection and editorial policies of Best of Bee, send email to bees@systronix.net, saying SEND CRITERIA in the subject line. --- Allen allend@internode.net http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Spring.htm ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 08:47:09 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "FULVIO SANTAMARIA J." Subject: Re: bees emitting radiation? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable OK, Juergen and Mart=EDn. I know a beekeper Who use this in a particular form, but my english is very=20 bad, then i prefer write in spanish to Matin and if it's possible he translate to Discussion of Bee Biology. Pardon Please Fulvio. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 09:51:36 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Janine Papp Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables Actually, I have a zine called Temple of Sting. Its not really about bees per se, it's a music zine, but I love bees, so it has a bee theme running through it. My circulation is only about 300 so far, but that was only the first issue and it is nationally distributed. I would love to publish bee fables or stories. If you have any, please send them to: Janine Papp Temple of Sting PO Box 357 Murray Hill Station New York, NY 10156 Please make sure to tell me whether or not I have permission to reprint it, and I will give you a zine in exchange, but that is the only compensation I can offer. THanks and good luck! Janine ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 08:19:18 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Eric Abell Subject: Re: Moving Beehives Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" To move them 8 feet you might try moving them 2 feet every couple of days. However, if they are all moving foward and stay the say relative to each other - just move them and the bees will very quickly find their way home. Eric At 11:02 AM 02/08/97 +0100, you wrote: >I am a beginner. I need to re organise my apiary a bit. The ideal answer is >to move two of my hives forward of their present position by about 8 feet >(240cm). > >I can wait until the bees are quiet in the Winter if necessary. > >Can any one give me suggestions please > >Tom Barrett >49 South Park >Foxrock >Dublin 18 >Ireland > >e mail cssl@iol.ie > > Eric Abell Gibbons, Alberta Canada T0A 1N0 Ph/fax (403) 998 3143 eabell@compusmart.ab.ca ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 10:22:36 -0700 Reply-To: beeboy@pinehurst.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Eric Sheppard Organization: Sheppard Soft-Warehouse Subject: UNsubscribe MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello, my name is Eric. My dad asked me about 6 monthes back to subscribe him to this list. Now, he beleives the e-mail is too much. I need to know how to unsubscribe to the bee-l list. please reply to: beeboy@pinehurst.net Thank you ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 10:37:45 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: L M SMITH MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii -- [ From: Lois Smith * EMC.Ver #2.5.3 ] -- leave beel ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 11:15:22 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Rory Stenerson <71762.1664@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: How do I figure price? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Bob Billison wrote: "Being only a hobbyist beekeeper selling isn't at the top of my priority list. However, I realize others do depend on getting decent price for their honey. I certainly don't want to hurt them or myself by selling cheap, nor do I want to rip-off customers. I tried comparing prices in stores but the range is quite wide. The big chain food stores are at the low end and 'health food' stores at the high= end. So how do I figure a fair retail price for my 1 pint jars of honey?" Bob, I'm in the same position as you. What I'm going to do is use the current pricing listed/reported in Bee Culture. You could probably extrapolate a price for your pint size from the sizes and container information listed every month for each geographic market. Just an idea, = Rory Stenerson Member - Centre County Beekeepers Association State College, PA U.S.A. 71762.1664@compuserve.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 12:04:43 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Midnite Bee Subject: Inspector's/Editor's comments MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee Greetings!! The State Inspector's and Editor's comments have been updated. The new membership person for the Maine Beekeepers Associations is: Joanne Romano,26 Elizabeth St., Gorham,Maine 04038 I need to make several changes to this site. I have not had the time. Please "bear"(bad word for beekeepers,sorry) with me, for I will make the changes and additions as soon as possible. Herb(Midnitebee) ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 09:28:46 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Andy Nachbaur (by way of Andy Nachbaur )" Subject: More BS on Killer Bee's... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Killer bees in Northern California arrived on a sugar boat from Hawaii and the queen got away?=20 < =20
Published on August 5, 1997 Killer bees have Crockett residents buzzing BY TONY MERCADO TIMES STAFF WRITER ---------- CROCKETT -- Here's a helpful tip from the county's agricultural= commissioner for those unlucky enough to stumble upon a hive of killer= bees: "Run a little faster and a little farther," Ed Meyer said.=20 Gee, thanks.=20 The buzz around Crockett that killer bees may be in town has some residents= there, well, slightly bugged.=20 "Bees? Are you serious? Oh, that's just great," lamented Ryan Segelre= hearing the news for the first time. "Guess it's time for me to move."=20 On July 21, a crew unloading a ship for the C&H Sugar refinery in Crockett= discovered a cluster of the insects, also known as Africanized honey bees.= There is no guarantee the insecticide used killed all the bees.=20 "We're hoping the swarm will not be able to get established if it did= survive being sprayed," Meyer said. "At this point if they survived, we= would have no idea which direction they would've gone."=20 Contra Costa County agricultural officials issued a warning Friday= describing the behavior of the bees and what precautions to take if coming= in contact with a hive or gathering of bees.=20 The warning, however, set off a swarm of phone calls by concerned residents= over the weekend to the county department of agriculture. The office= received 15 calls Sunday and another 20 calls before noon on Monday.=20 Meyer said on Tuesday his office would likely begin to set bee traps in the= area surrounding the C&H plant and walk around some of the neighborhoods to= search for signs of a swarm.=20 Denise Moore, a waitress at Emilio's Cafe, said the killer bees have been a= topic of conversation among some of the restaurant's regulars. But she= thinks the tales surrounding the bees are "pretty outrageous."=20 "I think it's kind of over-hyped," Moore said. "I'm not too concerned about= them. I don't think they're really killer bees like the kind in an Alfred= Hitchcock film."=20 The winged pests in that classic movie were actually birds, but you get the= idea. In either case, Africanized bees are dangerous because they are far= more aggressive than common domestic bees when it comes to protecting its= hive, Meyer said.=20 "Their stingers are no more venomous, but in terms of sheer numbers, there= are more working to defend the hive," Meyer said. "The killer bees will= chase you twice as far away from the hive."=20 Tammi Keller said she plans to keep a close eye on her young children when= she brings them down to the park near her home. Her daughters, 8-year-old= Adriana and 10-year-old Samantha are too curious for their own good, she= said, and may be unlucky enough to find killer bees.=20 "I wouldn't be scared," Samantha declared. "I'd just use a fly swatter."=20 Edition: WCT,=A0 Section: A,=A0 Page: 3 ---------- <=A9 1997 Contra Costa= Newspapers Inc.
< =20
========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 12:26:49 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Brenda Wishin Subject: Re: More BS on Killer Bee's... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Is this a fable? It's funny enough! How about a little joke? What did Winnie the Pooh say to his agent? SHOW ME THE HONEY! ---------- From: Andy Nachbaur (by way of Andy Nachbaur ) To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: More BS on Killer Bee's... Date: Tuesday, August 05, 1997 11:28 AM
Killer bees in Northern California arrived on a sugar boat from Hawaii and the queen got away? <
Published on August 5, 1997 Killer bees have Crockett residents buzzing BY TONY MERCADO TIMES STAFF WRITER ---------- CROCKETT -- Here's a helpful tip from the county's agricultural commissioner for those unlucky enough to stumble upon a hive of killer bees: "Run a little faster and a little farther," Ed Meyer said. Gee, thanks. The buzz around Crockett that killer bees may be in town has some residents there, well, slightly bugged. "Bees? Are you serious? Oh, that's just great," lamented Ryan Segelre hearing the news for the first time. "Guess it's time for me to move." On July 21, a crew unloading a ship for the C&H Sugar refinery in Crockett discovered a cluster of the insects, also known as Africanized honey bees. There is no guarantee the insecticide used killed all the bees. "We're hoping the swarm will not be able to get established if it did survive being sprayed," Meyer said. "At this point if they survived, we would have no idea which direction they would've gone." Contra Costa County agricultural officials issued a warning Friday describing the behavior of the bees and what precautions to take if coming in contact with a hive or gathering of bees. The warning, however, set off a swarm of phone calls by concerned residents over the weekend to the county department of agriculture. The office received 15 calls Sunday and another 20 calls before noon on Monday. Meyer said on Tuesday his office would likely begin to set bee traps in the area surrounding the C&H plant and walk around some of the neighborhoods to search for signs of a swarm. Denise Moore, a waitress at Emilio's Cafe, said the killer bees have been a topic of conversation among some of the restaurant's regulars. But she thinks the tales surrounding the bees are "pretty outrageous." "I think it's kind of over-hyped," Moore said. "I'm not too concerned about them. I don't think they're really killer bees like the kind in an Alfred Hitchcock film." The winged pests in that classic movie were actually birds, but you get the idea. In either case, Africanized bees are dangerous because they are far more aggressive than common domestic bees when it comes to protecting its hive, Meyer said. "Their stingers are no more venomous, but in terms of sheer numbers, there are more working to defend the hive," Meyer said. "The killer bees will chase you twice as far away from the hive." Tammi Keller said she plans to keep a close eye on her young children when she brings them down to the park near her home. Her daughters, 8-year-old Adriana and 10-year-old Samantha are too curious for their own good, she said, and may be unlucky enough to find killer bees. "I wouldn't be scared," Samantha declared. "I'd just use a fly swatter." Edition: WCT, Section: A, Page: 3 ---------- <) 1997 Contra Costa Newspapers Inc.
<
---------- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 18:32:48 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Allister C. Guy" MIME-Version: 1.0 commands -- Allister C. Guy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 09:31:25 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: ",Michael Vercoe" Subject: PRODUCING ROYAL JELLY MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Hi y'all, I would be grateful for any information or contacts on the subject of producing RoyalJelly. Contact through the list or directly to save cluttering this list. thanks in advance for those who respond. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Mike Vercoe Company Bee Honey Central Otago,NEW ZEALAND dmverco@es.co.nz ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 19:55:45 -0400 Reply-To: Bob Billson Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bob Billson Organization: my honeybees are more organized than me! :-) Subject: dying bees (followup) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hi all, Thanks to everyone that answered my cry for help! The colony seems to have returned to normal within a day of all those bees dying suddenly. I still haven't figured out what the cause was. It does not appear to be related to any disease. The inside was clean and very active. Two possibilities are left: poisioning or natural cycle bees who just happen to die in large numbers by coincidence. Guess I'll never know which one is correct. I am glad it wasn't something more serious or stupid thing I did as a newbie. Thanks again! Bob -- Bob Billson, KC2WZ email: kc2wz@intercall.net (\ MS-DOS, you can't live with it. You can live without it. /) {|||8- Linux: World domination. Fast. -8|||} (/ \} ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 20:14:29 -0400 Reply-To: Bob Billson Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bob Billson Organization: my honeybees are more organized than me! :-) Subject: when is the season over? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII How do I know when the honey season is over? Despite my scare last week, my Buckfast bees seem to be foraging furiously. There was a brief slack in the beginning of July when we had no rain. But after the recent rain, foraging really picked up. The bees have been going at it non-stop since then. I have no idea where they are going, but they are going somewhere. :-) I put a single shallow super on to see if they did anything with it. They quickly drew out the foundation. Was this a mistake? Should I not have they super on and let the bees keep whatever they are gathering? I imagine the nectar flow will turn off soon since August in New Jersey tends be dry. How will I know for certain the nectar flow has stopped? I don't plan on taking any of the Fall honey and I do want to treat for the mites in time to be effective. Any newbie advice? :-) Thanks... Bob -- Bob Billson, KC2WZ email: kc2wz@intercall.net (\ MS-DOS, you can't live with it. You can live without it. /) {|||8- Linux: World domination. Fast. -8|||} (/ \} ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 15:14:39 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Conrad Berube Subject: Beekeeping Fables Comments: To: MALMOND@InfoAve.Net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" .Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 09:02:45 -0700 >From: Mark Franklin Almond >Subject: Beekeeping Fables > >I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have collected over >the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to know if >anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to share >with me and other subscribers to the BEE-l. >American Bee Journal published a few fables which were written by Conrad >Burbee a year or so ago. I missed getting these fables. Can anyone help >me with getting these fables? Hey Mark, Sorry that this thread seems to have been going on for a couple days before I jumped in (been out of town and just now catching up on e-mail). The article to which you are referring is posted on my web page along with some other articles that you might find interesting (some other bee stuff but no other folk tales at present). I've been trying to find a literary agent for the book I've been working on for the past couple of years (using stories and folk tales from around the world to illustrate bee biology and beekeeping history in different cultures) but keep getting side-tracked by the demands of daily life (and other interests). You can find the article at http://pinc.com/~bwarner/5garudi.htm (if that doesn't work try http://vvv.com/~bwarner/5garudi.htm and if all else fails try doing a search from Alta Vista for "island crop management" and following the links to my publications). Hope you enjoy it-- and if anyone knows of a publisher or literary agent who would be interested in a light-hearted, ecclectic book on bees and bee legends PLEASE let me know. And, Mark, if you'd like to share your fables with me I'll send you a couple more (as long as you promise not to publish my versions before I do ;-) and I'll reciprocate the courtesy. - Conrad Berube " ` ISLAND CROP MANAGEMENT " ` 613 Hecate St. _- -_`-_|'\ /` Nanaimo, B.C. _/ / / -' `~()() V9R 4K4 \_\ _ /\-._/\/ (250)754-2482; fax (250)656-8922 / | | email: uc779@freenet.victoria.bc.ca '` ^ ^ website: http://pinc.com/~bwarner/ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 18:50:06 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: bartlett Subject: Honey in Maryland Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Someone asked about the honey from Southern Maryland USA. at this time of year. There is not really too much for the bees, but I have seen the bees working the soy beans. This may be the light honey, but I never seem to be able to keep track of that. All I remember most is that the Tulip Popular is dark and Locust is light around here. Also came across some Crepe Myrtles and the bees were working them. billy bee ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 09:13:50 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Sevigny, Marc" Subject: Hive Bases MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I saw some hives the other day that were elevated on tables about 3 feet off of the ground. That reminded me that I have some questions about positioning of hives. When I first located mine, I heard conflicting opinions about locating the hive on the ground. Some insisted that the hives be close to the ground, without allowing air to circulate beneath them (rationale being to avois the hive getting chilled in the winter). I've also heard that the hive should not be close to the ground, lest the ground moisture negatively affect the hive in the colder months. My compomise was to build a base of solid brick (won't allow cold air to pass beneath the hive) but only a couple of inches off of the ground. The hives that I saw on tables were put up there to avoid raiding by skunks. Should the hive be elevated? Is it OK for cold air to pass beneath the hive? And what about landing boards? My hive sites on its bottom board. How valuable are the landing boards? Is their expense worth the benefit the hive receives from them? ===================================================== Marc Sevigny E-mail: sevigny@isis.com Isis Distributed Systems Phone: (508) 490-6831 55 Fairbanks Blvd Fax: (508) 481-9274 Marlboro, MA 01752 ===================================================== ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 20:48:27 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ruben Kunze Subject: honeyprice MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hallo! I am a beekeeper in Uruguay Southamerica, and I am looking for information of honeyprice in the internet. I receive the American Bee Journal , but 2 or 3 months late. So the informations are good but old. I want to know if there is information from honeyprice in internet "online". I mean the price from today ore something like that. May be you can help me. Sorry my bad english. Thanksfull Ruben Kunze ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 20:04:14 -0700 Reply-To: mister-t@clinic.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: when is the season over? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bob Billson wrote: > > How do I know when the honey season is over? > I don't plan on taking any of the Fall honey and I do want to treat for > the mites in time to be effective. Any newbie advice? :-) I use to wait and take off my honey in the fall. I got enough honey for my needs and I had some winter loss. I read George Imire's "pink pages", a newsletter of the Maryland State Beekeepers, who reccommends taking the supers off after the main honey flow- which depends on your location. I consider it to be the end of the clover season in Maine, which means I took my supers off last week- the first week in August. It is earlier the further south you go. I did the same last year and have harvested more honey per hive this year than ever before. I will still get fall honey, as I did last year, by "over-supering". I have an extra inner cover and put it on the brood box and then put the extracted supers over it and then the next inner hive cover then fiber board and outer cover. The bees will clean out and move the extracted-wet super honey down, and then lay in the fall honey. I will pull the supers in September and treat with Apistan, crisco and TM. The bees will overwinter on spring and summer honey, which here is a light honey which means little particulate matter and it will probably not crystalize.( I ran a little experiment and extracted a few frames of that honey last year from the brood box. It still has not crystalized while the fall honey was solid by December..) Fall honey, especially aster, will lead to dystentary and poor overwintering. Many disagree with George and keep their supers on until the last drop of nectar can be got. It seems counter to logic, to pull the supers early, and not let the bees have the fall honey but keep it for yourself, but my bees have never been healthier or as productive. I did not lose a hive last winter and only one, the winter before, when many lost everything here in Maine. Bill Truesdell Bath, ME ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 20:08:02 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Sheri Iodice Subject: NewBEE Questions Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" We are new bee people and wondering what kind of extractor set up to look into. We are starting with three hives and know that we don't want a hand crank. Advise and suggestions welcome. Also, does anyone know of a supply place in Ware, Ma. We need the name and phone number. Thanks, Sheri ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 20:15:06 -0700 Reply-To: mister-t@clinic.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: Hive Bases MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sevigny, Marc wrote: > The hives that I saw on tables were put up there to avoid raiding by > skunks. > Should the hive be elevated? Is it OK for cold air to pass beneath the > hive? > And what about landing boards? My hive sites on its bottom board. How > valuable are the landing boards? Is their expense worth the benefit I elevate my hives on cinder blocks because skunks are a bigger problem than any other you mentioned. After a skunk visits your hives the bees will not appreciate you much either. The bees can get very aggressive. I did away with landing boards and the bees do fine. Bill Truesdell Bath, ME ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 17:32:43 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: honeyprice In-Reply-To: <199708060004.VAA21789@mail.adinet.com.uy> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 08:48 PM 8/5/97 -0300, you wrote: >Hallo! > >I am a beekeeper in Uruguay Southamerica, and I am looking for information of honeyprice in the Internet. Try the news group sci.agriculture.beekeeping, you will find the US price paid for large lots of honey the past month. I post it myself when I get it which is around the middle of the month because the government agency involved refuses to do anything that would cut down the income they get from selling this information they get for free from others and will not put this Honey Market Report on the Internet. It is about the only US government cash farm crop report that can not be found on the Internet and it burns my butt every time I think about the 30 years I sent in reports without pay to the USDA Market Reporting Service. Is the information good, well there is some question as it now relies 100% (heavy) on buyers for price information, and state bee inspectors, some who seldom get no farther away from their desk then the coffee room for plant condition reports. At one time it was about 50% beekeeper/honey producers and honey packers, and 50% regulators and was very good. Today when one reads the report it is easy to get the idea that the reporters are trying to sell you something or buy something from you cheaper, but its the only monthly honey market-beekeeping report we have other then what you find in the bee magazines and they relie on it for most of their information. IMHO, the OLd Drone > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 01:06:26 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Stan Sandler Subject: chalkbrood mummies in pollen traps Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi All: I noted with interest this spring (in the north) that people using a small amount of real pollen in their pollen substitute / extenders seemed to have better acceptance, even having it taken down after some pollen is available "in the wild". So I dusted off my ten pollen traps and have them out and they are yielding quite nicely. All the other hives in the home yard are splits or being used for queen rearing, so if I want to change the traps to other hives I would have to use another yard (inconvenient for emptying them regularly) or bring some more hives home (a possibility if necessary). My problem is that in four of the ten hives there are a few chalkbrood mummies each day in with the pollen pellets. There is not that many, and they are not a huge problem to pick out, but I have no idea about what tolerance should be acceptable. If I miss a few am I going to contaminate all my pollen substitute next spring? Right now the bees are bringing in mostly a very dark green pollen, and it would not be hard to miss a black mummy if it was broken to same size as a pellet. Those are the mummies that a supposed to be full of infective spores. Should I be looking for zero tolerance or should I just figure that if I pick through carefully that will not overload them (there must be quite a lot of spores in most of my equipment, since a large numbers of hives show symptoms in the spring during the rapid buildup period. Most seem to clear it up later on, although even very strong ones will show a few infected drone cells by times. Allen's recounting of buying some pollen one year and having a big chalkbrood problem after has me a bit worried. By the way, I note with great interest that in the one hive which is by far the best yielder of pollen the pellets are huge. They look to be nearly twice as big as the pellets of the other hives. (I should really weigh ten of them from that hive and a control and compare, I do have a triple beam balance here.) Has anybody else noticed variability in this? Regards, Stan ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 05:44:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: chalkbrood mummies in pollen traps SS>From: Stan Sandler >Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 01:06:26 -0300 >Subject: chalkbrood mummies in pollen traps Hello Stan, If you got it and want to pass it on collecting pollen from hives with chalk brood is 100% effective. It is possible to clean all the mummies out of the pollen but that pollen will still pass the disease on to any hives you feed it to. I was at one time a collector of bee pollen and packed it in 30# cans and sold it for $1.00 per pound to other beekeepers to feed bees. This was before chalk brood was common. I sold and gave much away to research institutions for medical and bee research. It was tested for all kinds of cures from growing hair on bald men, (it did not work), to its effects on brain cancers, (it would never work on beekeepers, but it also did not work on humans), in the end it was found to be a fair food for bees which was my first guess when I collected my first drawer full. As the business grew I soon was asked to supply the USDA Bee Research people, this was good, but I soon was signing all kinds of legal documents, such as I was a citizen, the pollen was produced by my bees in the US, I hired all who asked, and was not a current member of the boy scouts or any communist party. This was all OK but then the USDA went through its anal modernization and I was soon sending the pollen to one address, the bill to another, and from a third address would appear a check on the US Treasury with no identification, sometimes six months later. It got so bad that I to this day know I was not paid for one years shipments, and had to raise the price to $2 or $3 to make up for the extra work. The USDA decided that they could buy the pollen cheeper and did so, no big loss to me as I could sell all I could produce...heck I was selling it to the Arabs and Jews until one of their wars broke out. The problem was the USDA broke the laws or circumcised them by buying their bee feed pollen from outside of the United States, and got a good deal on pollen that was dried and ground up, including 15% by weight chalk brood mummies. This was not found out until the pollen was used by the majority of the USDA Bee Labs that were feeding bees, and much USDA research was then done on chalk brood after all their bees came done with it without any prompting by the bee industry. In all the years and tons of pollen I sold to others I never knowingly trapped or shipped any pollen from hives or with chalk brood mummies in it. I have seen what others were doing and have seen chalk brood mummies cleaned out of pollen by the five gallon buckets. (It is relished by chickens.) IMHO, anyone who feeds pollen from hives other then his own is taking a unnecessary risk as all these stories about pollen making diets more attractive are just that. If you want to make your bee diet more attractive to bees the easiest way is to increase the sugar. The more sugar the faster they will eat it. Sugar syrup alone will stimulate brood rearing but not sustain it without protein. Most beekeepers are more interested in increasing brood rearing and many times bees fed sugar syrup will collect pollen they would not have without the feed as pollen income alone will not stimulate brood rearing anytime or even the collection of it. The nectar is the key that starts the engine and the pollen sustains it. Food grade yeasts can substitute pollen if they are blended and made into a patty with sugar. The addition of TM will also increase brood rearing over just sugar syrup and should be added to all bee diets, syrup and protein. Invert sugar is better on the bees as they don't use themselves up inverting it. HFC syrup is better when it is cheeper because it is inverted and cheeper. Beekeepers should group together to buy sugar and stay away from sugar pimps as they will sell you junk sugar and you could trade your bees for a few cents savings. Small beekeepers can do everything that big beekeepers can by using fondant sugar (DRIVERT) and do not have to have access to fancy liquid sugars. Drivert can be used mixed 50 lbs to 100 lbs or more granulated sugar and the results will be an economical inverted sugar that can be fed dry, liquefied, or used in making patties. What was the question anyway? ttul, the OLd Drone (c) Permission is granted to freely copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)Opinions are not necessarily facts. Use at own risk. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ ... When the bee-hive casts its swarm; ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 22:38:12 +0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: acacia question Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >This message is probably directed more at the temperate and tropical >zone people who have knowledge of the australian acacia flowers. > >In my part of south africa we have a bit of an invasion of the >australina acacia, acacia longifolia. I have four beehives in an area >surrounded bby this plant that are doing mindblowingly well. (Middle >of winter and have just filled a deep super each in two weeks.) > >The only reason I can think of for this happening is the acacia's >which are in flower. The problem is that I have been told that acacia >l is only good for pollen? Yes, and different varieties of acacia vary in the quantity and quality of pollen. Acacias do have extra-floral nectaries (the book says) which secrete nectar when conditions are right but this is more of biological interest than use to beekeepers. They may attract and stimulate bees but do not provide honey crops. An abundance of good quality pollen will certainly stimulate brood rearing but it takes 6 - 8 weeks for the number of field bees to increase. In this part of South Australia the acacias have just commenced flowering. I do not see bees on them but I do see yellow pollen being brought into hives. >Also, these bees are rather aggressive. I opened one hive and they >went AWOL stinging things up to a hundred meters away, so maybe >whatever flow it is it has contaminants of isopentyl acetate or >something in it too? I find bees more aggressive at the commencement of the season when it is not warm enough for the majority of field bees to be out and about. If one hive shows aggression and the others in the apiary on the same day are manageable, I make a note to requeen the trouble maker. We had our first day working hives yesterday and when opening hives before the day had warmed above 16 degrees C. noted that bees would take off and cling to first objects they came to - which were two people in bee overalls. Once in position they were difficult to dislodge, leading to a number of stings and one crawler through a carelessly fastened zip. I was pleased to discover my immunity level has not dropped. Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Trevor Weatherhead Subject: Re: Acacia question Our experience here in Australia is that the Acacias, which have the common name of wattle, only produce pollen and no appreciable amounts of nectar. The protein value of some of the Acacias is quite good being as high as 30% crude protein. I have not worked areas where Acacia longifolia grows in large numbers so am not familar with its traits. I have seen it but only in small numbers. At present I have bees in areas where some Acacias, namely A. fimbriata and A. leiocalyx are flowering. They are producing pollen and the bees are coming out of winter quite well. When the Acacias flower, if the air is not very moist, the bees tend not to collect the pollen as it is too dry. Also, the propolis from the Acacias is usually quite distinctive and can be easily recognized. Acacias tend to "bleed" if damaged in any way and are susceptible to borer attack. Acacias, with a couple of exceptions, only live for a maximum of 10 years. They are regarded as "pioneer" species. Hope this helps. Trevor Weatherhead AUSTRALIA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 10:28:20 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: bartlett Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Asked if those were my bees at the neighbors swimming pool, I replied: "Did you check for leg bands? All of my bees have leg bands for identification". billy bee ---------- > From: Alan Norris > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables > Date: 2 ao{t 1997 21:57 > > Wife wanted must be able to cook and make love and have own honey extractor. > Send photo of extractor. > At 07:22 2/08/97 -0400, you wrote: > >My wife said if I didn't stop messing with my bees she was leaving, Im > >going to miss her. > > > >---------- > >> From: Jim Arthur > >> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > >> Subject: Re: Beekeeping Fables > >> Date: Friday, August 01, 1997 11:26 AM > >> > >> Sounds like fun.... > >> > >> ------------------------------------------------------------------- > >> Wife and Dog missing > >> Reward for Dog > >> ------------------------------------------------------------------- > >> > >> On Fri, 1 Aug 1997, Rett Thorpe wrote: > >> > >> > > I have a small collection of beekeeping fables that I have collected > >> > > over > >> > > the years that I have been a hobby beekeeper. I would like to know if > >> > > anyone on BEE-L have any humorous fables that they would like to > >share > >> > > > >> > Mark > >> > I cant speak for any of the others on the list, but I would be > >> > interested in reading the stories that you currently have. Would you > >be > >> > willing to put them in a file and send them either to the list, or to > >me > >> > directly? > >> > Anyone else interested? > >> > Thanks > >> > Rett Thorpe > >> > Salt Lake City, Utah > >> > > > > > > ANLEC PTY LTD > Project Electrical Inspection and Supervision > ,-._|\ Alan Norris Tel: 08 9448 7471 > / Oz \ anlec@iinet.net.au Mobile:041 791 7144 > \_,--._/ Perth Australia Fax: 08 9448 5014 > v ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 09:22:29 +0000 Reply-To: Barry@Birkey.Com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: BIRKEY.COM Subject: Re: chalkbrood mummies in pollen traps MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Andy Nachbaur wrote: > Small beekeepers can do everything that big beekeepers can by using > fondant sugar (DRIVERT) and do not have to have access to fancy liquid > sugars. Drivert can be used mixed 50 lbs to 100 lbs or more granulated > sugar and the results will be an economical inverted sugar that can be > fed dry, liquefied, or used in making patties. Andy - I'm about 6' big but I still don't know what fondant sugar is and where one looks to obtain this! Where is it primarily used? Is it used in making "rolled fondant frosting" which one can order from Wilton Industries? -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 11:18:24 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Verville Subject: Re: NewBEE Questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sheri Iodice wrote: > > We are new bee people and wondering what kind of extractor set up to look into. > We are starting with three hives and know that we don't want a hand crank. > Advise and suggestions welcome. > > Also, does anyone know of a supply place in Ware, Ma. We need the name and > phone number. > > Thanks, > > Sheri Maxant Industries, INC. PO Box 454 G Ayer, MA 508 772-0576 Might be you best bet. They have a complete line from small 2 frame hand crank to large comercial 70 framers. Ask for Rick. Dave Verville Plaistow, NH ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 15:12:12 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kelley Rosenlund Subject: For your eating pleasure Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Perhaps here is something useful to do with those *&)## wax moths... From http://www.orkin.com/bugrecipes.html >> Wax Moth Trail Mix >> >> * 2 cups dry roasted peanuts >> * 2 cups honey roasted peanuts >> * 2 cups small pretzel twists >> * 2 cups sunflower seeds >> * 1 cup wax moth larvae >> * 2 tablespoons butter >> >> Mix first four ingredients. >> >> Heat butter in skillet and add wax moth larvae. Saute until golden >> brown and slightly crispy. Add to mix, stir until evenly distributed >> and serve. God Bless, Kelley Rosenlund rosenlk@freenet.ufl.edu Gainesville, Florida, U.S.A., Voice:352-378-7510 Fax/voice:352-372-0078 200 hives, Beekeeping since 1995. 8 frame deeps,shallows. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 14:12:41 -0500 Reply-To: snapshot@pbmo.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "M. C. Michel" Organization: Snap Shot Subject: Re: Fructose Pump MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have finally found a good source for fructose in a drum. International sweetner in St. Louis Missouri. Where do I get a pump to pump out the fructose to get into smaller containers. Right now I do not have enough hives to justify a gas powered portable pump on a truck. What I do what is a way of pumping out the syrup into five gallon jugs for me to take to the apiaries. Any suggestions? Thanks! M. Chris Michel ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 21:58:34 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "K. Bokhorst" Subject: Re: Again Mineral Oil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ------This is a message to Dr P Rodrigues but maybe the answer is elucidating for all off us. Dear Dr Rodrigues, I followed with interest the discussion concerning MO and I surely are going to try it. At the moment I have 4 hives and with two of them I will apply MO. The other two I will apply the drone method as it is improved here in the Netherlands. I must state that one is not breeding mites this way. I followed the lessons given by one of the inventors and it turned out that the hives are at least 95% varroa free. But I wonder if I understood you well,since English is not my mother tongue,and I want to be sure. You answered T.V.Fischer that you apply each top bar in all broodchambers and supers. In a normal hive , 2 broodchambers and 1 super, this means that every fortnight you put 30*2.5=75 ml MO inyour hive. In ten months time this means 1.5 liter. It seems to me an enormous amount. Please tell me if I understood you well. Karel Bokhorst Bussum, The Netherlands.---- > > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 16:45:21 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kim Flottum Subject: Honey Price Reports In responce to Andy's comments on the sources of honey prices and magazines... Bee Culture magazine has over 100 field reporters who send in a specific report each month. The reports are compiled by region (there are 12), the prices from each reporter averaged for each region and published as such. Because they are averages they are higher than some, and lower than others, but are what is stated on the report - an average. We do not rely on the USDA Marketing Report for any of our prices at any time. We do, however, rely on them heavily for import and export data, which is fairly accurate from all we have been able to determine. Just so you know... Kim Flottum, Editor, Bee Culture ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 15:01:22 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Lawrence Cooke Organization: Dolores Door&Trim Subject: Re: NewBEE Questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sheri Iodice wrote: > We are new bee people and wondering what kind of extractor set up to > look into. > We are starting with three hives and know that we don't want a hand > crank. > Advise and suggestions welcome. > > Also, does anyone know of a supply place in Ware, Ma. We need the name > and > phone number. > > Thanks, > > Sheri I was talked into buying a 20 frame stainless food grade extractor and I am vary glad I did. I have 10 hives now but was told it will carry me through to 200.I got mine usedfor $ 400.00 from a beekeeper that grew out of it. Have fun, L.Cooke ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 17:29:46 -0400 Reply-To: "Glen B. Glater" Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Glen B. Glater" Subject: Hive stands My hive stands (made from 2X4s) are starting to buckle (too much honey, I guess ;-) At any rate, I need to build new stands for my 2 hives. Does anyone have ideas or plans for hive stands that have adjustable length legs? The terrain that my hives are on is mostly flat but with many tree roots, so I'd like to be able to level the hives and tilt them slightly forward. Any ideas? --glen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 17:36:40 -0400 Reply-To: "Glen B. Glater" Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Glen B. Glater" Subject: Re: Honey Robber or Bee go Dave: I've got some in Natick... BTW, there's a place in Woburn MA that stocks this stuff... >Just as my luck would have it! >In need of some bee go or honey robber. >So I order some and UPS goes on strick! >Currently sitting in Hartford CT. >Need a couple of cups (pint). >Any one in the greater Hartford area or a short drive off >of Route 84 North to the MA line? > >Dave Verville ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 17:37:36 -0400 Reply-To: "Glen B. Glater" Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Glen B. Glater" Subject: Re: Honey Robber or Bee go Oh boy! My apologies for the mail to Dave. I didn't look at the To line, and I meant to send that to him directly... Sorry... (No flames, please) --glen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 18:02:38 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Conrad Sigona Subject: Re: when is the season over? Comments: To: Bill Truesdell In-Reply-To: <33E7E969.5DB8@clinic.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII > ......................................................... I will still > get fall honey, as I did last year, by "over-supering". I have an extra > inner cover and put it on the brood box and then put the extracted > supers over it and then the next inner hive cover then fiber board and > outer cover. The bees will clean out and move the extracted-wet super > honey down, and then lay in the fall honey. I can't say I understand the point of the extra inner cover. Conrad Sigona conrad@ntcnet.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 15:27:28 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: Honey Price Reports In-Reply-To: <970806164442_-655220815@emout14.mail.aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 04:45 PM 8/6/97 -0400, you wrote: >We do not rely on the USDA Marketing Report for any of our prices at >any time. We do, however, rely on them heavily for import and export >data, which is fairly accurate from all we have been able to determine. >Kim Flottum, Editor, Bee Culture Thanks for the correction Kim, and I would add that Gleaning's has been a leader in providing crop reporting information to beekeepers but I do not have the faith in the USDA Honey Reports monthly import/export pricing you do, but for sure the pass through information on total imports is as accurate as it gets... ttul Andy- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2097 17:15:03 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Elizabeth M. Bowles" Subject: clumping bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit a couple questions from a "newbee" I've noticed that many bees (1000 + or - ) are clumping on the landing pad and some on the side of the hive. What's up with this behavior? I put a super over my two deeps about three weeks ago and there is no drawn comb in it and only a few bees. Also is there anything I should be doing at this time to help the bees along? I've not treated them with anything but mineral oil so far since I got them in the spring. I have not given them sugar water in a long time. All help is greatly appreciated and all you old time bee folk please be patient with me I really love this bee thing and like to pick the brains of the ones that have been there. : -) Elizabeth ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2097 17:29:00 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Elizabeth M. Bowles" Subject: specimens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I wrote recently about collecting bee specimens for a reasearch project. I assume it made the list. I did not recieve any response. Anyway I really need your help "bee folk". I want to have the best senior research ever seen, heard or tasted. I may have told you wrong about exactly what I need. I will take any worker, drone, or queen for the collection but I need the following information: type of bee (Italian) scientific name if known. name of person who mounted it name of bee farm (if any) Place Date I think I said to stick them through the abdomen, this was incorrect they should be mounted through the thorax. If you send any you may want to post what is sent so others don't send the same kind although I will use all that are sent. The display will be hung on the wall at the college (as it is college property) for all to see and know the what, where and who's about each bee. Could someone tell me if I could make the research paper available on this list so that those of you who are interested can read through it to help out with accuracy. I will be working on this all winter and will have to turn it in Spring 98. e-mail me for address Sincerely, Elizabeth ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 20:06:22 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Guy Miller Subject: Varroa mites Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hands up who loves the varroa mite. Me!!! I just heard that the varroa mite may be the creature which will keep the Africanized Honey Bee from my neck of the woods. If it's true that the mites are killing off all the feral bees, they are doing me a great favor in slowing down, or maybe even stopping, the northern journey of the feral AHB. As long as I can effectively medicate my bees, I think my "girls" and I will be Ok. But, if and when the AHB becomes resident in my area, I'll have to start looking for a new hobby. Mom was right - some clouds do have a silver lining. Guy F. Miller "Start every day with a smile, and get it over with." Charlottesville. VA W.C. Fields ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 21:18:51 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Debbie Hutchings Subject: Clumping bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi! Elizabeth! I wonder if your bees started some swarm cells before you got your super on? I'd take a look just to bee on the safe side. Happy Buzzzzzin. Debbie from Canada ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 21:29:40 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: clumping bees On Tue, 6 Aug 2097 17:15:03 -0500 "Elizabeth M. Bowles" writes: > >I've noticed that many bees (1000 + or - ) are clumping on the landing >pad and some on the side of the hive. What's up with this behavior? Elizabeth: This 'clumping' can often be seen in early morning and evening if the weather is real hot ! Like it is too hot inside the hive, so a pile will step out side for air. You really need to provide a few more details such as: Where you are-it is real hot there-what time of day or eve are you seeing this clumping, etc. Al, ----------------------------------------------------------- awneedham@juno.com - Scituate,MA,USA Cerberus - Three Sites In One Honey Bees-LottoLand-Doktor Finkle http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 22:09:44 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ruben Kunze Subject: Re: honeyprice MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hallo Andi I just tried to access this newsgroup but my server dont allow me to get in (or something like that) Your informations from the US goverment and why they refuse to give us the honeyprices is interesting for me Thanks Ruben Kunze ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 22:25:41 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ruben Kunze Subject: Dan Stadnik MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit WHO CAN HELP ME WITH THE ADRESS OR PHONENUMBER FROM DAN STADNIK MAIL TO RUBEN KUNZE kunze@adinet.com.uy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 21:46:46 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Again Mineral Oil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit K. Bokhorst wrote: > ------This is a message to Dr P Rodrigues but maybe the answer is > elucidating for all off > us. > Dear Dr Rodrigues, > I followed with interest the discussion concerning MO and I surely are > > going to try it. > At the moment I have 4 hives and with two of them I will apply MO. > The other two I will apply the drone method as it is improved here in > the > Netherlands. > I must state that one is not breeding mites this way. > I followed the lessons given by one of the inventors and it turned out > that > the hives > are at least 95% varroa free. > But I wonder if I understood you well,since English is not my mother > tongue,and I want to be sure. > You answered T.V.Fischer that you apply each top bar in all > broodchambers > and supers. > In a normal hive , 2 broodchambers and 1 super, this means that every > fortnight > you put 30*2.5=75 ml MO inyour hive. > In ten months time this means 1.5 liter. It seems to me an enormous > amount. > Please tell me if I understood you well. > Karel Bokhorst > Bussum, The Netherlands.---- > >Yes. And in 13-14 months time in use, Varroa mite count is down to 2% in some and 0% in others. I have not yet arrived at the magic 0% for all my test colonies. I think that my test colonies get reinfected from swarms that I introduced into the test apiary. Bad mistake! Will have to find another site to locate swarms! I had not added the amount of oil that I have used yet. The total amount varies according to the number of frames in the colony, definitely. I am happy to use 1.5 liter of mineral oil if that is what it will take me to rid my bee colonies of bee mites and have the certainty to produce honey FREE of toxic substances. I consider these two well worth my efforts and expenditure.I fail to imagine how this volume of a food grade, medicinal substance becomes "an enormous amount." Based on what? Thanks for your post. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez > > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2097 20:53:12 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Elizabeth M. Bowles" Subject: Re: clumping bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've only noticed it in the evening, but it may be morning or even after noon as I've been on Vacation and have only noticed since I've returned. I've not had much time to spend with them. Yes, it has been very hot until yesterday. I did not get a chance to look at them today or tonight becuase of work and church. Thanks for the input, that is what I suspected but I am a "newbee" Elizabeth > This 'clumping' can often be seen in early morning and evening if > the weather is real hot ! Like it is too hot inside the hive, so a pile > will step out side for air. > > You really need to provide a few more details such as: > > Where you are-it is real hot there-what time of day or eve are you > seeing this clumping, etc. > > Al, > > ----------------------------------------------------------- > awneedham@juno.com - Scituate,MA,USA > Cerberus - Three Sites In One > Honey Bees-LottoLand-Doktor Finkle > http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 20:28:40 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Lyle Greenwood Subject: Fw: Need bee removal contract ideas. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Return-Path: >From: "Bobby R Fanning" >To: "Lyle Greenwood" >Subject: Fw: Need bee removal contract ideas. >Date: Tue, 5 Aug 1997 23:51:00 -0500 >X-MSMail-Priority: Normal > >Lyle, > >Try and foreword this to the BEE-L server. I can not seem to get it to >take from me. > >Thanks, >Bob > >---------- >> From: Bobby R Fanning >> To: bee-l@uacsc2.albany.edu >> Subject: Need bee removal contract ideas. >> Date: Tuesday, August 05, 1997 11:33 PM >> >> We have a young man (age 14) in our association who is getting in the >> business of removing bees from walls. He needs a copy of a contract / >> agreement to be signed by the beekeeper and the home owner. Anyone who >> can furnish copies of the one you use would be appreciated. >> >> Bob Fanning >> Madison County Beekeepers Association >> Huntsville, AL >> k4vb@hiwaay.net >> >> > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 20:28:31 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: clumping bees In-Reply-To: <22305150072375@ctwok.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At , you wrote: >a couple questions from a "newbee" > >I've noticed that many bees (1000 + or - ) are clumping on the landing >and some on the side of the hive. What's up with this behavior? Common bee behavior with as many beekeepers answers as there are beekeepers, and all may be rite for any one area. In this area, the one I am thinking of is central California coast, after the early summer honey flows the bee hives are often still crowded with young and old bees and the hive heats up easily and the bees hang out to reduce congestion in the hive and cooling is the results. This problem can many times be reduced by providing water close to the bee yard as when the nectar flow ends the need for outside water for cooling is increased since the moisture in the nectar is no longer available. In the late summer in the hot central valley like today the temperature is over 100, in fact it was 105. At these times in the heat of the day the bees will stop flying for water or nectar and as the shadows increase they will just about all come out an hang one the shady side of the box, under it, and between them if they are close. Again if they did not the hive would over heat and brood would be lost, and in some cases in the old days when reinforced foundations was rare, the combs of honey themselves would melt down and honey would run out on the ground. Many old time beekeepers had two tops, or an extra top, usually a old one that were called "summer" lids and they used these to add a little shade to the top of the hive. It works, but does not look all that good. All these bees hanging out can make it an all nighter when one has to move bees. Many beekeepers carry a back pack (fire) sprayer and extra water and will spray a yard down before they try to load them in the extreme afternoon heat when many bees would be lost if they were left on the outside of the boxes during movement. It is interesting that smoking the bees in does not work as as soon as you move down the row to smoke other hives they will hurry back out. With the water spray little or no smoke is necessary as it seems to calm the bees. One wants to be careful under the conditions that cause the bees to hang out as many time all the bees in the hive will be outside. In the very hot desert areas of California and Arizona bees are sometimes moved during the day because they will quit flying when it get much over 100 and can be moved easily. In some areas the bees die as soon as they come in and try to land as the ground becomes very hot. In these areas beekeepers build shade for their bees made out of local materials such as palm leaves, or branches, and even the wood from cactus. ttul, the OLd Drone ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 20:41:50 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: clumping bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At , you wrote: >a couple questions from a "newbee" > >I've noticed that many bees (1000 + or - ) are clumping on the landing >and some on the side of the hive. What's up with this behavior? Bees hanging out! Common bee behavior with as many beekeepers answers as there are beekeepers, and all may be rite for any one area. In this area, the one I am thinking of is central California coast, after the early summer honey flows the bee hives are often still crowded with young and old bees and the hive heats up easily and the bees hang out to reduce congestion in the hive and cooling is the results. This problem can many times be reduced by providing water close to the bee yard as when the nectar flow ends the need for outside water for cooling is increased since the moisture in the nectar is no longer available. In the late summer in the hot central valley like today the temperature is over 100, in fact it was 105. At these times in the heat of the day the bees will stop flying for water or nectar and as the shadows increase they will just about all come out an hang one the shady side of the box, under it, and between them if they are close. Again if they did not the hive would over heat and brood would be lost, and in some cases in the old days when reinforced foundations was rare, the combs of honey themselves would melt down and honey would run out on the ground. Many old time beekeepers had two tops, or an extra top, usually a old one that were called "summer" lids and they used these to add a little shade to the top of the hive. It works, but does not look all that good. All these bees hanging out can make it an all nighter when one has to move bees. Many beekeepers carry a back pack (fire) sprayer and extra water and will spray a yard down before they try to load them in the extreme afternoon heat when many bees would be lost if they were left on the outside of the boxes during movement. It is interesting that smoking the bees in does not work as as soon as you move down the row to smoke other hives they will hurry back out. With the water spray little or no smoke is necessary as it seems to calm the bees. One wants to be careful under the conditions that cause the bees to hang out as many time all the bees in the hive will be outside. In the very hot desert areas of California and Arizona bees are sometimes moved during the day because they will quit flying when it get much over 100 and can be moved easily. In some areas the bees die as soon as they come in and try to land as the ground becomes very hot. In these areas beekeepers build shade for their bees made out of local materials such as palm leaves, or branches, and even the wood from cactus. ttul, the OLd Drone ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 23:45:43 -0500 Reply-To: Conrad Sigona Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Conrad Sigona Subject: Re: Again Mineral Oil Comments: To: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" In-Reply-To: <33E92905.646A5310@norfolk.infi.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII >> In ten months time this means 1.5 liter. It seems to me an enormous >> amount. > .......................................................................I > fail to imagine how this volume of a food grade, medicinal substance > becomes "an enormous amount." Based on what? It sounds like a lot to me too, but it's based on nothing other than the feeling that it's got to be going somewhere. I like the concept of mineral oil and indeed am trying it on 4 hives right now, but I do continue to wonder where it's all going. Conrad Sigona conrad@ntcnet.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 07:39:02 -0700 Reply-To: drjames@utah.uswest.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "James Max Peterson Ph.D." Organization: Westate Tool Company Subject: Beekeeper MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi All: Does anyone know a beekeeper who lives in or about Tiffin, Ohio? I need to send him some local honey. Thanks in advance Some one said " If it is to be, It is up to me" , but he didn't know about Bee-L. James Peterson ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 10:07:19 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Channell Subject: exposed hive Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I need assistance. I have been a beekeeper for about 4 years, but never encountered the following situation: a friend called me yesterday and ask if I would come over and remove a hive that is hanging from the ceiling of her porch. She tells me it is in full view and quite pretty with 4-5 nice drawn out comb - overall about the size of a soccer ball. My question to you learned bee-pers is once removed, how do I set the brood comb up in standard deep frames? Any guidance would be welcomed. I'll do the deed Friday morning (Aug. 8) around 9 a.m. Please email me directly (chanel@elpn.com). Thanks Tim Channell - El Paso, Texas ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 14:55:55 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: filtering honey Comments: To: smharris@ed.co.sanmateo.ca.us In a message dated 97-08-02 01:32:59 EDT, smharris@ed.co.sanmateo.ca.us (Mason Harris) writes: << I am entering 4 different types of honey in the county fair next week. My lightest honey has very fine, suspended particles in it which I can't seem to get out. I have filtered it through gross and fine filters, the last one being a women's stocking. I think these suspended particles are fine pollen specks. It is most visible in the lightest honey. Does anyone have a method for clearing up this honey? >> Pantyhose is not fine enough. Try organdy from your fabric shop. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 15:03:59 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Bee Works Subject: Re: EAS 97 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Is anyone going to EAS 97 next week? So far there has been nothing on the Bee-L about it, so we are wondering if we will alone in Newport, Delaware. ******************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Dr, Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, L3V 6H1 Phone/fax 705-326-7171 David Eyre, Owner. http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ******************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 12:51:16 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul Cronshaw, D.C." Subject: Re: Hive Stands Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Glen, I think you will find many different hive stand systems, from no stand to pallets to elaborate iron scaffolding. I have settled on cinder blocks spaced apart to accomodate 2 hives. These can be adjusted by placing as singles or double high. On top of the cinder blocks, to prevent ants from disrupting the bees, I put oil/sand moats made out of pie dishes with a wooden block Two 2 X4 or 4 X 4's are placed on top of these pie dish blocks. Very stable/sturdy set up. Paul Cronshaw DC Cyberchiro and Hobby Beekeeper Santa Barbara, CA ---------- Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 17:29:46 -0400 From: "Glen B. Glater" Subject: Hive stands My hive stands (made from 2X4s) are starting to buckle (too much honey, I guess ;-) At any rate, I need to build new stands for my 2 hives. Does anyone have ideas or plans for hive stands that have adjustable length legs? The terrain that my hives are on is mostly flat but with many tree roots, so I'd like to be able to level the hives and tilt them slightly forward. Any ideas? --glen ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 22:02:29 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "K. Bokhorst" Subject: Again Mineral Oil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This is again a message for Dr Rodriguez but of interest to all of us. Yesterday I wrote about the quantity of MO you have to put into your hive. Today I learned the following. I am a purchase Manager in the chemical industry . So it is easy for me to obtain FGMO (infact I bought some in the past) But Food Grade Mineral Oil DOES NOT EXIST anymore The FDA does not approve MO in goods which can come into contact with Food. They took it from the list of approved materials last year. I do think we have a problem now. (the materials which are approved now are MCT's, That are mid chain(synthetic) fatty acids that are totally saturated.) I do think they will work as well. On the list quite a few people wrote about all kinds of vegetable oils. The disadvantage of these oils are there natural origin which means that they consist of a various amount of chemical components , amonst others unsaturated comonents which can be oxidated causing undesirable odour and so on. At any rate I ordered a small amount of MCT and I am going to try it. I will keep you informed, but it will a lot of time before you can be sure. Greetings from a very sad beekeeper (the honey flow was bad this year) Karel Bokhorst ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 16:32:49 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Frank & Phronsie Humphrey Subject: Re: Hive stands Comments: To: "Glen B. Glater" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You can use concrete blocks placed on roll roofing. Use a little Sac-Crete mortar under the low end to level the bottom blocks. Then put on top blocks after the mortar is set. Also the roll roofing keeps the weeds and grass down. Frank Humphrey beekeepr@cdc.net ---------- > From: Glen B. Glater > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Hive stands > Date: Wednesday, August 06, 1997 5:29 PM > > My hive stands (made from 2X4s) are starting to buckle (too much > honey, I guess ;-) > > At any rate, I need to build new stands for my 2 hives. > > Does anyone have ideas or plans for hive stands that have adjustable > length legs? The terrain that my hives are on is mostly flat but with > many tree roots, so I'd like to be able to level the hives and tilt > them slightly forward. > > Any ideas? > > --glen ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 14:08:15 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John Day Subject: ants hi there, anybody got a good way to keep little black ants out of the colonies? i have 6 colonies on a long board about 1.5 feet off the ground. the ants have a nice little highway trekked out for themselves to the various hives. i'm sure the buggers are eating like crazy. thanks, john ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 17:53:59 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Again Mineral Oil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit K. Bokhorst wrote: Dear Karel or any one with similar knowledge: Now these are heartbreaking news! I was not aware of the new restrictions on MO. Since as purchasing agent(s) you probably have access to listings that I do not, could you please write and give me an address to whom I may write about MCT's purchasing? As you can realize I need to look for a substitute fast and I do not want to use vegetable oils. I have eliminated those from my potential sources a year ago for the reasons that you so well elucidate. I have reasons for not wanting to use essential oils either. Your assistance will be greatly appreciated. Best regards. Dr. Pedro Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 23:25:22 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "MR WILLIAM L HUGHES JR." Subject: Lighting hits twice The last week of July I visited one of my bee yards to find that wind and/or lighting had caused two trees to break and fall onto several of my hives shattering a few. The heat index that day was 123 and it was very miserable sawing up those downed trees. Last week end I went back to the same yard a few days after a bad storm came through our area. This time one tree had been blown down and crushed the very same hives. I replaced the equipment again. And will go back this weekend to check them out. Just unusual bad luck I guess. Bill Hughes Bent Holly Honey Farm Brighton, Tennessee USA