========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 14:29:36 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: ddavidd Subject: First hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, I just started my first hive with some used equipment and a swarm. I live in san martin, Ca and was wondering if there are and local beekeepers on this list. I have been read a couple books from the libary and so far I got the hive together and my son and I got the bee in it with no trouble at all. Something I read on the list said that it was to late to get a swarm. I am now wondering will the bees survive the winter even if I feed them? What should I do now to check there progress ? All the books say I should keep 2 hives ? any advice will be helpful. David ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 18:34:56 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Spiekhout Subject: black bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Today I had bees in the garden for the first time this year(excepr for bumble bees). They were completely black except for the pouches of pollen on their legs. They were working on basil blooms. I also saw one black & yellow striped bee. It was much smaller than the black ones. What kind of bees did I see? Richard ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 20:08:06 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Christopher Slade Subject: Chalk Brood Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit My understanding is that the spores of chalkbrood are in virtually every hive and usually it persists at a low rate without being a problem. However it is when the colony is stressed that Chalkbrood gains the upper hand.. It can be regarded by the beekeeper, not as a problem to worry about on its own account, but as a useful indicator that something else is wrong. Often Chalkbrood is noticed when there is an imbalance between the brood and the nurse bees, possibly following swarming or manipulations by the beekeeper. Other causes may be varroa or other infestations/ diseases; medication to treat them; damp hives; poor foraging conditions, especially for pollen; or even disturbance by the beekeeper. Like David Eyre, I am not convinced that requeening is the answer. I have not tried it myself as my bees have never been affected seriously enough for me to contemplate interfering. The problem has always gone away. Since starting this mail it has occurred to me that it might be an interesting experiment (and save the cost of a new queen) if, in a badly affected hive, the resident queen were caged for a few days and then released. This is late night armchair beekeeping and others may well debate my hypothesis but I think the break in egg deposition (she may continue to lay eggs but not in cells) will enable bees to emerge and get to the nursing stage and then be under worked rather than over worked. This will enable them to give the larvae the very best attention and diet which will enable the larvae to cope successfully with the spores they will inevitably ingest. If there is ANY chalkbrood in a hive the spores will be everywhere. The question is not why do so many bees die of chalkbrood but why do so many survive unscathed? I suggest the survivors are better fed. I should be interested to learn from anybody willing to try the experiment in a real hive rather than an armchair whether the theory works in practice. The next question which can be answered at the same time is "Is it worth the effort?". Caging the queen will result in a lack of bees later. How many bees depends what her laying rate was and how many would have died of chalkbrood. If the experimentor (I am getting quite enthusiastic about this and might even do it myself if my bees had much chalkbrood), having first found and caged the queen, shakes the bees off every frame with brood and photographs both sides he will be able, by using the fingers of both hands or a calculator, to determine the approximate laying rate and the degree of chalkbrood infestation. The latter will be a rule of thumb benchmark as it will only show the dead larvae that have been decapped prior to removal by the undertakers. To reduce the chance of the running of the experiment itself producing a biassed result I suggest doing in in the best of weather (whatever that is) and having somebody else take the photographs. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 22:12:38 -0700 Reply-To: highplains@midmo.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Terry Reynolds Organization: High Plains Subject: Re: First hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ddavidd wrote: > > Hi, I just started my first hive with some used equipment and a swarm. > > I live in san martin, Ca and was wondering if there are and local beekeepers > on this list. > > I have been read a couple books from the libary and so far I got the hive > together and my son and I got the bee in it with no trouble at all. > > Something I read on the list said that it was to late to get a swarm. I am > now wondering will the bees survive the winter even if I feed them? > > What should I do now to check there progress ? > > All the books say I should keep 2 hives ? > > any advice will be helpful. > > David David: I also am a new beekeeper - I got bought three complete hives about a month ago. I can't answer your question about your bees surviving winter but I can offer info on how to check their progress for now. You need to open the hive and check for: a) capped brood (dark rather than light which is the honey) b) larvae stage brood - uncapped (look like little grubworms) c) the queen (much longer than the other bees) d) honey stores. If you find larvae, the queen is probably around somewhere even if you don't locate her. This procedure can be quite intimidating but just work calmly and take your time. Granted, I just did this for the first time last weekend and it was quite a rush!! I don't know how much detail you needed -- if you need more just ask. The reason they say to two hives is that if you find one of your colonies is weak, you can combine the two and have one strong one rather than possibly losing the weak one. Patty in central Missouri ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 22:14:37 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: Chalk Brood Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/15/98 8:22:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, CSlade777@AOL.COM writes: > This is late night armchair beekeeping and others may well debate my > hypothesis but I think the break in egg deposition (she may continue to lay > eggs but not in cells) will enable bees to emerge and get to the nursing > stage > and then be under worked rather than over worked. This will enable them to > give the larvae the very best attention and diet which will enable the > larvae > to cope successfully with the spores they will inevitably ingest. Go for it Chris! I'll be interested in the results of your experiment. But...... I suspect it has a lot to do with hygenic behavior, which is a genetic trait. As you say, most hives clear it up by themselves, but I have a few each year that do not. I believe they just don't have enough workers with this trait to rapidly clean out the mummies. And they usually exhibit a lot of other weakness too, whether or not it's directly related. For a while I wondered if it was connected with the ultra golden color, as I had quite a few golden hives that broke down, and stayed that way. But I don't have a lot of golden stock anymore, and I still see an occasional bad case. My own observations probably don't qualify as science, no controls, no double blinds, etc.....but requeening has always worked for me. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 15 Aug 1998 21:08:59 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Bonney Subject: Re: Chalk Brood MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Regarding requeening to help with chalkbrood, this is something that is often recommended as an aid to getting past a stress disease. I subscribe to the theory myself. It is not the new queen, per se, but the break in the brood cycle that usually accompanies requeening. There willbe a period of lower egg laying while the new queen comes up to speed, leading to fewer larvae for the nurse bees to tend for a while. This gives more time for house chores such as cell cleaning, and disease organisms are more efficiently cleaned out. Dick Bonney rebonney@javanet.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 12:32:09 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Vincent Smith Subject: Poison Honey. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Everyone, I live in Pendeen in Corwall on the Lands End Peninsula in the UK.A poster has appeared on the window of our village post office informing people that they have to destroy five different species of plants if they are found growing on there land.This is because of the Weed Act - actually I thought that this had been superceded by other legislation.The serious part of the poster is that it says that children will die if they eat honey made from ragwort.This poster was put up by a local nutter and is not official.However people read it and believe it.I imagine our local honey producers are going to be hit by this. I have little knowledge of honey production and have joined this list in an attempt to stop this rumour quickly.I would appreciate any information that you have about the dangers to health by honey obtained from poisoned plants.I realise that the ragwort story is untrue but I'd like some proffessional back-up, Thanks, Vincent Smith. Vincent Smith, Pendeen, Cornwall, U.K.TR19 7SF e-mail: dhvsmith@globalnet.co.uk ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:01:37 +1200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Nick Wallingford Organization: Bay of Plenty Polytechnic Subject: Re: Poison Honey. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > poster is that it says that children will die if they eat honey made from > ragwort.This poster was put up by a local nutter and is not > official.However people read it and believe it.I imagine our local honey > producers are going to be hit by this. In my files at home, I do have an article re: some of the toxins from ragwort in the nectar/honey produced. My memory of it is not clear enough to reference authoritatively, but if no one else gives you better info, I'll try digging it out. *From memory* it said that the quantity was measureable but not life-threatening. But I will go and check it when I get home after work! (\ Nick Wallingford {|||8- home nickw@beekeeping.co.nz (/ work nw1@boppoly.ac.nz NZ Beekeeping http://www.beekeeping.co.nz ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 15:24:24 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John J Moore Subject: White wax When my partner(brother in law) first started with the bees, his wife was into making the beeswax candles, so only naturally we went into candle making. I'm running out of sources for wax, and I'm also looking for the white wax that is produced through filters. I have the books on how to. (Currently going to use peroxide 40%) But does anyone know a source to buy this from. We are using the cappings for a nice yellow color but they want it white. Any help would be appreciated. John N. Smithfield, RI _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 10:52:01 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: RFC822 error: Incorrect or incomplete address field found and ignored. From: Steve Newcomb Subject: Re: black bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Richard, Where do you live? Here in Ohio, I have a black bee working my corn. It is smaller than a bumble, but bigger than a honeybee. The abdomen appears to be a rounded shape. ---------- > From: Richard Spiekhout > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: black bees > Date: Saturday, August 15, 1998 6:34 PM > > Today I had bees in the garden for the first time this year(excepr for bumble > bees). They were completely black except for the pouches of pollen on their > legs. They were working on basil blooms. I also saw one black & yellow > striped bee. It was much smaller than the black ones. > What kind of bees did I see? > Richard ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 11:02:40 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Re: First hive and cappings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >You need to open the hive and check for: >a) capped brood (dark rather than light which is the honey) This is true on older combs, but newly drawn brood combs will have very light brown cappings. The difference between brood and honey cappings is that the worker brood cappings have a low dome over each cell and drone brood having a higher dome. Honey cappings are flatter and can have a wrinkled appearance. IMHO, Ian Watson realtor@niagara.com real estate agent gardener baritone beekeeper---> 14 colonies ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 08:34:19 -0500 Reply-To: ribac@wi.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Randy & Isa Chase Subject: Re: Poison Honey. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Frank C. Pellett states in his book "American Honey Plants" that "F.N. Howes, (Plants and Beekeeping) describes ragwort (Senecio aureus) as deep yellow in color possessing a strong almost bitter flavor." The section on ragwort reports that the various members of the Senecio family are a common source of bee forage in the United States, especially in the Southern region. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 08:33:31 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Stan Sandler Subject: Arizona Room Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All: I have received the following inquiry from a beekeeper in Mozambique doing a beekeeping project there: > Some eight years ago I read about an American beekeeper using an "Arizona Room" to evaporate his honey from 22% moisture to 17%. We have a particular problem in the coconut and mangrove areas because the humidity is very high and the temperature over 100 F. I recall that the article was in " Gleanings ", The A.I.Root monthly magazine. If you have accessibility could you try to find something on Arizona's for us. Does anyone know anything about an "Arizona Room"? Thankyou, Stan ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 13:24:33 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: dsstv@FLASH.NET Subject: Re: BACK YARD HIVE LAWS In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Anyone with any case history ruleings please E-mail me because I have a neighbor that filed a complaint on my hives. Thanks ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 16:33:30 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Adrian Wenner Subject: Re: BACK YARD HIVE LAWS Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" dsstv@FLASH.NET asked: >Anyone with any case history rulings please E-mail me because I have a >neighbor that filed a complaint on my hives. Thanks. You really should have identified yourself fully, including name and location. ******* Back in June I posted the following message in response to an inquiry by John L. Garland, as follows: John L. Garland wrote: >I am brand new to this format but due to recent activities... there is >probably no better place to ask, so here goes. Two days ago I received a >registered letter from a lawyer claiming to represent a nearby neighbor. The >neighbor's case is that my bees are causing her "loss of enjoyment" of her >property. The details of this are many and I would be willing to share them >with those of you who are interested. However, my question is what has >historically been done with beekeepers and laws concerning neighbors claims >as listed previously. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated. ********** That problem surfaces all too often. An esteemed U.C. Berkeley entomologist, Richard L. Doutt (also an attorney) wrote a comprehensive review of that topic back in 1959, as follows: "The case of the trespassing bees." Bulletin of the ENTOMOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF AMERICA. 5(3): 93-97. Prof. Doutt dealt with legal cases all the way from the 17th century to the 1950s (when he wrote the paper). You might find some useful information in that paper. Also, a more recent publication might cite that contribution, permitting you to obtain an update on the problem. Adrian Adrian M. Wenner (805) 963-8508 (home phone) 967 Garcia Road (805) 893-8062 (UCSB FAX) Santa Barbara, CA 93106 *********************************************************************** * "To cling rigidly to familiar ideas is in essence the same as * * blocking the mind from engaging in creative free play." * * * * David Bohm and F. David Peat 1987 * *********************************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 18:38:00 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Mark Gosswiller Subject: Old brood comb MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain I've been told that to winter your supers of extracted honey you can simply just put the supers back on the hives. This probably isn't the best way considering there would be more space for the bees to try and keep warm over the winter, but it probably is the easiest way. I do have a question concerning the old brood comb. I have 4 boxes of old brood comb that is healthy and moth free as of today. But how are you seasoned Beekeepers storing your brood comb? Putting them in plastic trash bags was suggested by a friend but when we opened his up - several frames were ruined by wax moths. After all the years of storing brood comb surely someone has come up with an idea to keep the wax moths away and still keep the method fairly easy for the novice beekeeper to perform. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Mark_Gosswiller@bc.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 22:20:35 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Spiekhout Subject: Re: black bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I am in So central Ky. these bees are(to me) the same size as the familiar brown or golden honey bee. I read today thet many wild bees are black and some of the first brought here from Germany were black. I have no Idea where they live but seem gentle while working the basil in my garden. richard ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 22:37:43 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Wolford Subject: Swarm BEE-L, Today I captured a small swarm of bees. I installed them into a hive I have been observing the past 4 to 5 weeks that appears to be queenless. I captured the bees using a shallow super with undrawn foundation. Even though I did not find the queen in the swarm, I assume that she was there some where. Will she likely survive her new home or should I have done (or do) something differently? John M. Wolford What should I do next? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 23:00:04 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Black and green bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since we are talking about different bees, I thought I would ask the list about the following: A friend said they saw a bee which was larger than a honeybee but it was all black with one or two GREEN stripes on the tail end. I have never seen such a bee. Anyone have any idea what it might bee? Ian Watson realtor@niagara.com real estate agent gardener baritone beekeeper---> 14 colonies ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 12:39:37 PDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: T & M Weatherhead Subject: Storing combs In-Reply-To: <199808170038.KAA11447@iccu5.ipswich.gil.com.au> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; X-MAPIextension=".TXT" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > I've been told that to winter your supers of extracted honey you can = simply > Putting them in plastic trash bags was suggested > by a friend but when we opened his up - several frames were ruined by = wax > moths. There will be wax moth eggs in the combs that you put in the plastic bag.= These will hatch and ruin your combs as your friend found. Try putting= your combs in the freezer for a couple of days before putting them in = the plastic bag. This will kill any eggs and will not leave a residue = which you can get with chemicals. Make sure the bag is then sealed so = moths cannot get in again. Trevor Weatherhead AUSTRALIA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 12:52:01 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: White Wax: peroxide Comments: To: johnbkpr@JUNO.COM Hi John and All You mention that you wish to bleach wax with peroxide and are looking for a supplier. 40% peroxide is a dangerous mixture (as it contains a lot of easily liberate oxygen and if mixed with a flammable substance, like wax it could be almost explosive.) I suspect you want what is called 40 volume hydrogen peroxide. This is a solution easily obtainable from your local chemist, or if not available there I am sure a nearby school would be willing to give you some in return for a talk on bees. If you mix the wax and peroxide and then leave in the sun (or under a UV tube) it will work better. Basically the peroxide will liberate free radicals that destroy everything including the colour compounds in your wax. Another thing that does bleach wax is phosphoric acid, but this is a very dangerous chemical (goes through the skin and dissolves your bones). (I used it once for preparing samples for analysis) Hope this helps Garth Garth Cambray Camdini Apiaries Grahamstown Apis mellifera capensis Eastern Cape Prov. South Africa Time = Honey After careful consideration, I have decided that if I am ever a V.I.P the I. may not stand for important. (rather influential, ignorant, idiotic, intelectual, illadvised etc) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:20:58 +0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Joe Sardo Subject: Instrumental insemination MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDC9E1.DF712240" Messaggio a piy sezioni in formato MIME. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDC9E1.DF712240 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello to everyone, I am new on the list. I am a beekeeper in Italy with about 250 hives. I would like to improve my breeding program using artificial insemination but unfortunetly it's difficult to get precise info here.Any advice would be welcome.I have also heard that there are new techniques in wintering queens using battery boxes and banking systems. Sorry if I can't be more clear. Thanks in advance, Joe Sardo email gemelo@tin.it ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDC9E1.DF712240 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; name="Joe Sardo.vcf" Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Joe Sardo.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BEGIN:VCARD VERSION:2.1 N:Sardo;Joe FN:Joe Sardo EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:gemelo@tin.it REV:19980817T112058Z END:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDC9E1.DF712240-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 07:25:24 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology , BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU From: Carlos Aparicio Subject: Re: black bees The black bee is "apis mellifera mellifera", and the blonde bee is "apis mellifera lig=FAstica". The black bee, is something larger than lig=FAstica, their tongue is shorter, their colonies are more uniforms (larger winter colonies) and is stronger for hard winter conditions. When the better time for blonde bee is mid summer, for black bee is late summer. The natural environment for black bee is Atlantic shore of Europe, and for lig=FAstica is the mediterranean weather, more benign than the former. Some people found black bee more difficult of work for a hard character, and tendency to sting. More important, is than black bee, is stronger for diseases, mainly mites. To day, there is several organisations in England and France who are going back to dark bee (Information on Bee Improvement and Bee Breeders' Association can be obtained from the Honorary Secretary Albert Knight (aknight@blackgold.win-uk.net).). Here in Uruguay (South America) with a temperate weather (35=BA= south lattitude) we have a stabilized hybrid between both races, which is very resistant to mites and we have apiaries with 3000 bees which are doing no treatmente against varroa. Regards: CARLOS APARICIO ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 07:45:10 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Norman CotÊ" Subject: Re: Old brood comb Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I freeze all my extra drawn comb for 48 hours, that kills all the wax moth larva. I then place them in plastic bags ready to use next season. Norm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:53:04 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Old brood comb Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/17/98 7:50:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Beekeeperc@AOL.COM writes: > I freeze all my extra drawn comb for 48 hours, that kills all the wax moth > larva. I then place them in plastic bags ready to use next season. > > I have upwards of 100 supers of drawn comb after the bees have cleaned them following extraction I make stacks 6 supers hi and on every 2nd super put a sheet of scrap paper and some para moth crystals. Over this goes a clear plastic bag pulled down to cover 6 boxes and tucked in under the bottom edges. In a few weeks I will look over the stacks to double check them. Last year I lost 2 combs because I didn't recheck them soon enough. It would probably be a good idea to keep all the combs that are darkened from having brood in them together and check these first as moths seem to prefer brood combs. Before you scrap any old brood combs think about using them in swarm traps. I have heard stories of a product called Certan? A BT strain and would like information on it's use and success- seems more benign than para crystals. Tom in CT ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 07:55:02 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Thomas D. Harker" Subject: Re: Black and green bees In-Reply-To: <199808170627.BAA25647@rock.icd.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 11:00 PM 8/16/98 -0400, you wrote: >Since we are talking about different bees, I thought I >would ask the list about the following: A friend said they >saw a bee which was larger than a honeybee but it was >all black with one or two GREEN stripes on the tail end. >I have never seen such a bee. Anyone have any idea >what it might bee? > We have a nest of these on the front of our garage. We have been watching the nest grow from the beginning and I believe that it is some variety of hornet or wasp. The nest is round and made of paper. It started as a small inverted bottle shape. The queen and workers have been adding layers all summer and it is larger than a basketball right now. They seem quite gentle. Each time we open the garage door, the nest is disturbed and the hornets fly all around but not one has tried to sting any of my family. Several times I have found my head about 1 foot away from the hive and I have never been attacked. My 3 bee hives are about 300 feet away and on the other side of the house. I have not seen them around the beehives or any evidence that they are attacking my bees. Let me know if you get a name for these. Thanks, Tom - 3 hives in northern Illinois ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:56:40 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Alan Pagliere Subject: Wax (cappings and other) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I just harvested my first super of honey. Thrilling. Some quick questions on two fronts: I would like to give wax back to the bees if possible. If so, how does one do so? Can you just leave a bowl with the wax sitting in it near the hive entrance? Will the honey that is on the wax cause robbing from other bees? Can this also be done with other wax (the occasional scraping of burr comb)? Do they actually use it, bring it back into the hive? Secondly, is there a way to have bees clean out the honey that remains on extracted comb without putting the comb back on the hive (thereby leaving the comb cleaner/dryer for overwinter storage)? As always, I appreciate tremendously the combined experience and helpfulness of the members of this list. ------------------------------------------ | Alan Pagliere | | pagliere@umich.edu | | http://www.umich.edu/~pagliere/ | |---------------------------------------------| ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:58:05 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: White Wax: peroxide Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/17/98 7:19:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, g95c6713@WARTHOG.RU.AC.ZA writes: > > 40% peroxide is a dangerous mixture (as it contains a lot of easily > liberate oxygen and if mixed with a flammable substance, like wax it > could be almost explosive.) > Be very carefull with peroxide it is rocket and torpedo fuel. However Dry cleaners use very strong peroxide in prespotting items to be cleaned and purchase it in 10 or 15 gallon drums ,perhaps you can obtain some there. Rubber gloves face shield and goggles and rubber apron all reccomended. Tom in CT ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 09:04:23 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Alan Pagliere Subject: Follow up on "getting mean" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII A while back I posted a question about my Buckfasts getting rather mean after their initial gentleness. Just wanted to follow up. Although they are, of course, not happy to see me, I seem to have a better rapport with them. Perhaps it's just me getting used to them, perhaps it' s better smoking technique.... Who knows exactly. In any case, I should mention that someone from Weaver's, from whom I purchased the queen and package, actually called me rather long distance to ask me some questions and alleviate my newbee concern. I appreciated that they had enough interest in a single, small customner to call them up. ------------------------------------------ | Alan Pagliere | | Ann Arbor, MI | | http://www.umich.edu/~pagliere/ | |------------------------------------------| ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:59:11 -0400 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: Old brood comb MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A few thoughts of mine about storing combs- Brood combs are very attractive to wax moths, and cannot be stored for long before the moths damage or totally ruin them. Three things can be done. 1) Freeze them for several days, after which you can store them in completely closed plastic bags. If there is so much as a tiny hole somewhere, the moths will find it. This method is usually only practical on the small scale. 2) Treat with PCB crystals placed on boards on top of and below the stack of hive bodies, then close the stack with duct tape. Do not get the crystals on the frames, or the bees will reject the combs. In my experience, the combs should be aired out in the open for about a week before using them in the spring. 3) Spray the combs with a BT containing solution. This is obtainable at bee supply houses, but I have no experience with it. Honey super combs are much easier to store, if dry and no pollen or bee cocoons are present. This is the main reason that I would never even consider not using queen excluders: When brood is raised, pollen and cocoons are inevitable in the honey supers - an excluder is the easiest way to keep all this trouble out of the super. OK, I said the supers must also be dry. Despite much that has been said in this newsgroup, supers can easily be cleaned out in the open by bees without stimulating general robbing of hives. Here's what I do: 1) Make your stack far away from existing hives - you don't want bees looking around for free food near hives. 2) Put down a bottom board and a queen excluder directly on top of it. This keeps mice out of the supers. 3) Stack up to ten supers newly extracted. They need not be neatly lined up. It doesn't matter. 4) Put an inner cover and cover over the stack, and let it stand for about a week. 5) Store the now dry combs indoors, taking care to protect the stack from mice only. Wax moths will not even try to get into them (if there is no pollen, or course). One thing should be mentioned, however. Never, never mix any AFB supers with good ones. All these frames should be burned, never reused. I wouldn't even extract honey from AFB supers. Burn it all, honey and frames. Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:54:36 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Gerald L Barbor" I have a friend whose brother is in Senigal, West Africa, and who is planning to begin a small beekeeping operation. We talked during the winter, and he has read and investigated a lot, but still seems to be flying by the seat of his pants. Any tips on differences from mid-atlantic U.S. beekeeping (which is all I know much about to help him)? He currently is inquiring about a beesuit. Is a polyester/cotton beesuit sufficient for working African bees - I assume it would be cooler than the nylon that I use occasionally? I'd appreciate any help you can offer us. Thanks, Jerry in Pa. (GLBarbor@Juno.com) _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 09:07:24 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: willow foster Subject: bumblebees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I was wondering if anyone has experience raising bumblebees in a greenhouse, and/or any tips on doing so. Thanks Willow Willow Foster (*) willow@selway.umt.edu l University of Montana \l/ "This is the stickiest situation since sticky the stick insect got stuck on a sticky bun." -- Blackadder ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 11:11:04 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tim Sterrett Subject: storing brood comb MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Storing brood comb and extracted comb: 1. If Apistan is put on the hive in late summer and again in early spring, storing extracting supers on the hive may not be a good idea. 2. If combs are put in a freezer to kill wax moth eggs and larvae, should the wooden box supers be put in as well? Do moths lay eggs in the supers as well as on frames of comb? Do moths lay eggs on cracks on the outside of a stack of stored supers? If so, they need more than just a freeze to protect them into the next spring. 3. I use paradichlorobenzene, too, but isn't the gas from the crystals heavier than air? I put the supers _in_ a big bag and put the crystals on top of the (covered) stacks. (Store comb in a place that gets cold if possible, not in a house or cellar. Cold weather stops the wax moths; a cellar just seems to encourage them! Para crystals are not needed during freezing weather.) 4. I used to try to have the bees clean up the extracted supers by putting them back onto the hive. But storing them, under para crystals, is a lot less work, and the bees clean them up the next spring. I would like to hear from someone who has stored comb and protected it from wax moths by letting light deter the moth larvae. (Stacking them so that light can get in top and bottom of stack) Tim -- Tim Sterrett sterrett@voicenet.com (southeastern) Pennsylvania, USA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 18:31:48 +0300 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: black bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Richard Spiekhout wrote: > What kind of bees did I see? > Richard probable one of the 25000 other bees than the honeybee see http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/sol_bee_life.html greeting jan ------------------------------------------------- home of the drone frame method. de darreraat methode ------------------------------------------------- http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index3.html Jan Tempelman mailto:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 ------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:21:12 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Storing combs with light >I would like to hear from someone who has stored comb and protected it from wax moths by letting light deter the moth larvae. (Stacking them so that light can get in top and bottom of stack) Tim Tim, I regularly keep brood comb free from wax moths by leaving it outside, uncovered, so that light can freely get into the top. I ve never had a problem with wax moths and have stored deeps with brood comb up to four high in this manner. Rain and thunderstorms don t harm the combs. However, I only do this during spring, summer and fall. If I want to keep the combs over winter I treat, as has been described, with para crystals and protect from mice. I only put the crystals on once, when I bring the combs in, in the fall. In the spring I get the combs outside soon enough (May in this climate in upstate NY) so that moths don t become a problem. Lloyd LloydSpear@email.msn.com Owner, Ross Rounds the finest in comb honey production. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 20:04:24 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Mike Rowbottom Subject: Rough Handling MIME-Version: 1.0 In our Beekeeping Association in N England some old hands insist that rough handling of colonies during inspection makes bees permanently bad tempered. I know that a single rough inspection can make the mildest of colonies aggressive for that inspection. This will presumably be a response from the colony to the alarm pheromones generated by damaged/squashed bees. Also, some colonies are aggressive and are very hard/impossible to handle however calm and gentle the beekeeper's technique may be. Presumably this is because the bees concerned have a stronger response to a lower level of alarm pheromones. Is there any experience in the Group that continuing rough inspections make the bees on the receiving end persistently bad tempered? In other words is it possible that a colony of bees can be 'sensitised' by repeated exposure to increased alarms so that eventually the bees consistently respond more aggressively that they used to? -- Mike Rowbottom HARROGATE North Yorkshire UK e-mail : mike@cognant.demon.co.uk ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 11:36:14 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Frank Humphrey Subject: Re: Old brood comb In-Reply-To: <199808171257.IAA07811@mail3.bellsouth.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > -----Original Message----- > From: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology > [mailto:BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU]On Behalf Of (Thomas) (Cornick) > Sent: Monday, August 17, 1998 8:53 AM > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Old brood comb > > > In a message dated 8/17/98 7:50:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > Beekeeperc@AOL.COM writes: > > > I freeze all my extra drawn comb for 48 hours, > > > > > I have upwards of 100 supers of drawn comb > after the bees have cleaned them following extraction > > Tom in CT > I have a platform under my shed made from old pallets and covered with 1/2" hardware cloth. I stack my supers on this staggered leaving about 1/2" opening for each one. I then cover the top of each stack with 1/2" hardware cloth. I very rarely have any damage to combs stored this way. They sometimes get a little dusty but the bees clean the before using them. The reason for so many !/2" measurements is that it is small enough to keep out mice but large enough to allow plenty of light and air into the combs. Frank Humphrey ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 01:06:18 -0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Carlos Aparicio Subject: Re: black bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The black bee is "apis mellifera mellifera", and the blonde bee is "apis mellifera lig=FAstica". The black bee, is something larger than lig=FAstica, their tongue is shorter, their colonies are more uniforms (larger winter colonies) and is stronger for hard winter conditions. When the better time for blonde bee is mid summer, for black bee is late summer. The natural environment for black bee is Atlantic shore of Europe, and for lig=FAstica is the mediterranean weather, more benign than the= former. Some people found black bee more difficult of work for a hard character, and tendency to sting. More important, is than black bee, is stronger for diseases, mainly mites. =20 To day, there is several organisations in England and France who are going back to dark bee (Information on Bee Improvement and Bee Breeders' Association can be obtained from the Honorary Secretary Albert Knight (aknight@blackgold.win-uk.net).). Here in Uruguay (South America) with a temperate weather (35=BA= south lattitude) we have a stabilized hybrid between both races, which is very resistant to mites and we have apiaries with 3000 bees whicn are doing no treatmente against varroa. Regards: CARLOS APARICIO =20 =20 At 10:20 PM 16/08/1998 EDT, Richard Spiekhout wrote: >I am in So central Ky. these bees are(to me) the same size as the familiar >brown or golden honey bee. I read today thet many wild bees are black and >some of the first brought here from Germany were black. I have no Idea= where >they live but seem gentle while working the basil in my garden. >richard > > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 00:24:41 +0300 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: Black and green bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thomas D. Harker wrote: > Several times I have found my head about 1 foot away from > the hive and I have never been attacked. stingless bees in the USA???? ;-) ------------------------------------------------- home of the drone frame method. de darreraat methode ------------------------------------------------- http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index3.html Jan Tempelman mailto:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 ------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 22:13:13 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Spiekhout Subject: soy beans Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Will bees gather pollen from soy beans and what kind of honey will it be if they do? I am bringing home some bees and they will be near several hundred acres of beans that are just starting to bloom. Is this good? Richard ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 16:32:51 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Oberle Subject: Re: Rough Handling MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Is there any experience in the Group that continuing rough inspections >make the bees on the receiving end persistently bad tempered? In other >words is it possible that a colony of bees can be 'sensitised' by >repeated exposure to increased alarms so that eventually the bees >consistently respond more aggressively that they used to? This is not only possible there is a high probability that it will happen. If you have ever had a hive that is being harrased by skunks you would see just how cranky the hive would become from repeated exposure to the harassment. Thanks Michael Oberle NTS1@ix.netcom.com Network Technical Services Inc. Minnesota The place where absolutely nothing is allowed. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 05:14:56 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Charles Frederic Andros Subject: Re: soy beans MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Richard, Soybeans can be good depending on weather conditions, soil moisture, = and variety, probably the limiting factor. Charles Andros Linden Apiaries/Boulder Wall Gardens 1 McLean Road Walpole, NH 03608-0165 603-756-9056 -----Mensagem original----- De: Richard Spiekhout Para: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Data: Ter=E7a-feira, 18 de Agosto de 1998 03:24 Assunto: soy beans > Will bees gather pollen from soy beans and what kind of honey will it b= e if >they do? >I am bringing home some bees and they will be near several hundred acres= of >beans that are just starting to bloom. Is this good? >Richard ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 09:03:16 BST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: qub Subject: Re: Rough Handling MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Mike, I also hear of the older beekeepers talk about bees remembering and have read about it in the old books. Digges writes about ..forcing the pace... makes a colony remain agressive for the remainder of the season. But I think that the reason is that if you wear gloves and these become covered in alarm pheromone, then the bees will act agressively each time the hive is examined. If you open the hive without gloves the bees will often remain calm - until a few get squashed! Phil ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 12:42:03 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Vincent Smith Subject: Poison Honey. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Everyone, Many thanks for the info regarding the toxicity of honey produced from ragwort.It is ok to eat and a copy of the UK Min of Ag report regarding this subject can be found on http://www.maff.gov.uk/food/infsheet/1995/no52/52honey.htm The offending poster has now been removed from the local Post Office - when I went to talk to the PO manager a local bee keeper was also in the shop which helped convince him. The poster was put up by an uninformed local person,featuring his own distorted views and not the facts. He now has the honour of being the person that tried to destroy our local honey industry and also frightening parents into thinking that they may have poisoned there children. For those of you that asked the Act of Parliament that he misinterpreted is the Injurious Weeds Act of 1959.This gives the Ministry of Agriculture powers to serve enforcement notices on landowners to remove 5 species of plants that can be a danger to livestock.However the policy of the Agricultural Departments is to become involved in cases where there is a real threat to agricultural land or production.I other words I have some of the plants growing in my garden but I don"t have to remove them as I have no livestock, nobody else uses it for livestock and the plants aren't going to be eaten by animals in the surrounding area.The five species listed in The Act are spear thistle,Cirsium vulgare,Creeping thistle, Cirsium arvense, Curled dock,Rumex crispus, Broad leaved dock, Rumex obtusifolius and Common ragwort, Senecio jacobea. This Act applies to England and Wales - I am not sure if Scotland adopted this legislation as they have a different legal system. Thanks again for helping clear up this matter my part of the world certainly doesn't need another food scare. Especially one based on an illinformed persons ignorant comments, Cheers, Vince Vincent Smith, Pendeen, Cornwall, U.K.TR19 7SF e-mail: dhvsmith@globalnet.co.uk ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 08:07:41 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: soy beans Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/18/98 3:58:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time, RASpiek@AOL.COM writes: > Will bees gather pollen from soy beans and what kind of honey will it be if > they do? > I am bringing home some bees and they will be near several hundred acres of > beans that are just starting to bloom. Is this good? It's good if pesticide applicators obey the law. Materials that are hazardous to bees are forbidden to be applied while bees are foraging in the application area. Check the label directions. Of course the law is not always observed and is poorly enforced, unless beekeepers are assertive. Soybeans are quite variable in yield. For me they have been mostly disappointing. The bees work them, but don't add much weight, maybe due to our sandy coastal soils. In some areas with the right soils and the right soybean varieties, they do make a little honey. BTW, bees make honey from nectar, not pollen. The pollen is protein food for the young bees and babies. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene: http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 23:23:42 -0800 Reply-To: beeman@gci.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tom Elliott Organization: Home Subject: Re: Rough Handling MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > In other > words is it possible that a colony of bees can be 'sensitised' by > repeated exposure to increased alarms so that eventually the bees > consistently respond more aggressively that they used to? Mike I seriously doubt it is possible for rough handling to cause a hive to be overly aggressive for more than six weeks. They don't have libraries to record past abuse. I have worked bees only a week or so after being "rescued" from a season of quite rough handling and they had settled down in that time after a move and being treated gently. These bees were extremely agggressive all season and under two gently inspection became quite gentle. -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Chugiak, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@gci.net ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 08:54:00 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Gerald L Barbor" Subject: Re: CERTAN Certan is no longer on the market. Jerry in Pa. _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 08:28:45 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Keeler, Lisa" Subject: Soybeans Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In my limited experience (3 summers: 2 with soybeans in the neighbor's field and 1 with corm), here in the midwest the soybeans seem to cause a substantial honey run. But I can't be certain because other plants are flowering too. Lisa K. Zionsville IN ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 15:28:52 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re: Giving wax back to bees Hi Alan You mention that you have harvested some honey and have wax which you wish the bees to re-utilise. The best way to let them do this is to save up the wax and have it rolled into foundation (send to your local foundation supplier). Bees love nothing more than a big clean sheet of foundation inbetween their outer brood frames and a big jug of sugar water. You will notice that the next generation of bees reared in this cleaner environment (fresh wax) are hard working and large. A bit like children reared in a nice fresh new suburb which does not yet have any broken bottles lying around to hurt them. Alternatively you can leave the wax out in a warm spot and they will steal it and use it in making propolis and brood cappings I believe. I have often bee surprised at how much they can remove in short while on a warm day in late autumn. A read of a priest (Catholic) in the Congo once who was convinced the little pigmie kids from the settlement nearby were sneaking into the high windows and stealing the candles. One day he was in the church over lunch when people normally take a nap because of the heat and he saw a constant stream of bees strip mining his candles and taking little loads of wax away. It turned out that at this time the sun shone through and warmed the candles up, thus they could get their little mandibles into the wax and chew it of and haul it away. Any other time of day, the sun was not there and the bees could not steal!! Keep well Garth Garth Cambray Camdini Apiaries Grahamstown Apis mellifera capensis Eastern Cape Prov. South Africa Time = Honey After careful consideration, I have decided that if I am ever a V.I.P the I. may not stand for important. (rather influential, ignorant, idiotic, intelectual, illadvised etc) ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 15:34:31 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re Rough Handling Hi Mike You question whether rough handling can in fact make bees bad tempered. I recently removed a swarm of bees from withing the joyces (sp) of a bridge over which a constant stream of heavy trucks thundered. They were, despite their large colony size, one of the nicest swarms I have ever worked with. In total the colony comprised well over twelve large combs (three pizza areas at least) and had at least half of that as brood - normally such a colony would be quite agro but these were friendly. I believe frequent handling calms bees. Keep well Garth Garth Cambray Camdini Apiaries Grahamstown Apis mellifera capensis Eastern Cape Prov. South Africa Time = Honey After careful consideration, I have decided that if I am ever a V.I.P the I. may not stand for important. (rather influential, ignorant, idiotic, intelectual, illadvised etc) ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 17:30:45 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Beenetuk1 Organization: Amigabee computer networking for beekeepers Subject: Re NATIONAL HONEY SHOW The E.mail address for Revd. F Capener is no longer at amigabee.org.uk The correct e-mail address is: nathon@zbee.com http://wwww.beeman.dircon.co.uk/nhs/ STEVEN TURNER G6LPF Beekeeper/gardener Sysop of ZBeeNet BBS. http://www.beeman.dircon.co.uk/ Email: beeman@zbee.com .. Platinum Xpress & Wildcat!..... Nice!!!! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 20:32:34 -0400 Reply-To: mayortb@ix.netcom.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Thom Bradley Subject: Re: Rough handling MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I had 4 colonies which were combined by bears after 2 sperate attacks that destroyed 2 colonies. They knocked over all twice within a 1 week period. I moved the bees to a seperate part of the yard and they all migrated to the remaining hives. the following Saturday I went to check for the presence of brood and found some of the most behaved bees I have seen this year, as well as significant repairs and great brood patterns. the 2 remaining colonies are strong and gathering much nectar from an inknown source. These bees did not get aggressive after the most rough handling I can imagine. Thom Bradley Chesapeake, VA Elizabeth City, NC ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 00:53:52 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Spiekhout Subject: Re: Rough Handling Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit If bees only live 6 weeks. How can they rember rough handling or any thing else. Loioks like the new bees( I'm one of those)would not know of the incident. Just an observation Richard ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 20:46:16 -0400 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Eyre Organization: The Bee Works Subject: Re: CERTAN MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Date sent: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 08:54:00 -0400 Send reply to: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Gerald L Barbor" Subject: Re: CERTAN To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Certan is no longer on the market. Sorry, This statement is incorrect. As Thornes North American agent I must point out, it is in our catalog. (Certan is a biological larvaecide for the protection of wax comb in storage.) ******************************************** The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive, Unit 2, Orillia, ON, Canada.L3V 6H1 Phone- 705-326 7171. Fax 705 325 3461. North American agents. E.H.Thorne(UK)Ltd. Ventilated Hives and Equipment David Eyre... Owner http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ********************************************* ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 22:18:27 -0700 Reply-To: drjames@utah.uswest.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "James Max Peterson Ph.D." Organization: Westate Tool Company Subject: Re: White Wax: peroxide MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi: Phosphoric Acid is used in soft drinks to give them a tart taste. It will burn the skin if left on in concentrated form. Hydrofluoric Acid will disolve bone if left on the skin. Garth wrote: > Hi John and All > > You mention that you wish to bleach wax with peroxide and are looking > for a supplier. > > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:34:37 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rick Hough Subject: Re: Rough Handling -Reply Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain >>> Richard Spiekhout wrote>>> If bees only live 6 weeks. How can they rember rough handling or any thing else. <<<<< Bee Legends! Remember that the Queen lives much longer than the other bees, often several years. You probably thought that all those bees crowded around the Queen in that nice circular pattern were grooming & cleaning the Queen - not so! They are crowding around for the best seat to hear the stories about the big bad beekeeper that disrupts the colony all the time. Rather like the campfire stories we like to tell..... Rick Hough rshough@tasc.com A Bee-L lurker from NE Massachusetts ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:10:08 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Rough Handling -Reply Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit When I make up a nuc for a beeginner I use the bees from a hive I can slap shake and pound on without a lot of bees becomming upset. Never had bees become a problem from rough handling other than the day it happens. Other than selecting which hives are candidates for a beginners nuc I don't go out of my way to rile them. Tom in CT ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:49:52 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Charles Frederic Andros Subject: 2q MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="x-user-defined" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am running all two-queen colonies for the first time and would like to hear of others experiences with bi-queen pumpers! Charles F. Andros Former NH-VT Apiary Inspector I am running all two-queen colonies for the first time and would like to hear of others experiences with bi-queen pumpers! Charles F. Andros Former NH-VT Apiary Inspector ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:00:50 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Roger Flanders Subject: Re: Soybeans MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lisa, my experience is far more limited than yours--only two hives and this is my first year--but I've had the opposite result from soybeans. My hives are about 100 feet from my neighbor's bean field. All of the comb drawn on new Duragilt foundation, and all of the honey in my supers, came before the bean field began blooming. I've been waiting now for over five weeks to see some nectar flow from the bean field and it's been zilch, zero, nada. Someone suggested the variety of soybean makes a difference. I wonder if that's true? ---------- > From: Keeler, Lisa > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Soybeans > Date: Tuesday, August 18, 1998 8:28 AM > > In my limited experience (3 summers: 2 with soybeans in the neighbor's > field and 1 with corm), here in the midwest the soybeans seem to cause a > substantial honey run. But I can't be certain because other plants are > flowering too. > > Lisa K. > Zionsville IN ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 23:44:45 -0700 Reply-To: rm@objectdata.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert MacKimmie Subject: Re: Soybeans Content-Type: text/plain Mime-Version: 1.0 (NeXT Mail 4.2mach v148) While the soybean question continues to remain elusive, let me offer this: There is a honey customer at the San Francisco Farmer's Market who claims that soybean is his favorite honey ever and and he checks back about every six weeks or so to see if we have found any. If someone has the proof in hand, I know of a customer! robert@objectdata.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 11:21:48 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bonnie Pierson Subject: Re: Rough Handling Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Can it be that the pheromones left between the boxes by the squashed bees are again released to alarm the colony? Bonnie Pierson bonbee@aol.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 11:14:13 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Gauthier Buddy J Subject: Rough Handling MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I'm still new to handling bees and find myself clumsy when handling the frames. I find my bees(Italian) are very patient with me. On several occasions, I've dropped the frames, killed some bees and punctured the comb till honey started flowing. It amazes me that they don't even buzz around my head when handling them so rough. Please don't fuss me. I am getting better. Buddy Gauthier Computer Systems Analyst Cameco Industries, Inc. Thibodaux, LA 70301 Phone: (504)448-0339 Fax: (504)435-4704 Email: T802273@deere.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 06:40:21 +0000 Reply-To: aweinert@tpgi.com.au Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: aweinert Subject: Re: White Wax: peroxide MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT be careful with the metals that you use with peroxide. as mentioned before it is a strong oxiduzing agent. I remember an incident at at dry cleaners where an employee used (I think) a copper rod to stir peroxide. The result was that there were toxic fumes given off and the fire brigade called to clear the area. Stainless steel is OK (we use it with peroxide in the dairy industry) but I am not sure about galvanised material.(My guess is that it would FIZZ spectacularly) SO work in open areas with peroxide if it is your first time and be very careful. Garth might be able to give us the correct chemistry. (My chemistry is fading in the archives of my head) Andrew Weinert Atherton, Tropical North Queensland Australia 17.17 Degrees South, 145.30 Degrees East ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 06:40:55 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David W Oakes Subject: Ceam Honey MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello, I had a person ask me for cream honey. I would appreciate if anyone know how to make it, to please let me know. Thanks in advance. Dave in Indiana ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 22:01:39 +1200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Nick Wallingford Organization: Bay of Plenty Polytechnic Subject: Re: Ceam Honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > I had a person ask me for cream honey. I would appreciate if anyone know how > to make it, to please let me know. Creamed honey is simply honey that has a 'controlled granulation'. There is an article at http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/article6.htm that you'll find interesting, and another at http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/article5.htm (\ Nick Wallingford {|||8- home nickw@beekeeping.co.nz (/ work nw1@boppoly.ac.nz NZ Beekeeping http://www.beekeeping.co.nz ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 20:48:48 +0100 Reply-To: luichart.woollens@virgin.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Harry Goudie Organization: Luichart Woollens Subject: Re: Poison Honey. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Vincent Smith wrote: > > Many thanks for the info regarding the toxicity of honey produced from > ragwort.It is ok to eat and a copy of the UK Min of Ag report Having had a quick look at the Maff report it would seem to me that it would not be at all good to eat ragwort honey and perhaps the notice should have been left in the Post Office! I think it would depend on the density of ragwort (or any poisonous plant) in the area. It has been my experience that where you have only one or two plants in an area then the bees will ignore those plants but where you find a lot of plants then the bees start to take an interest. During recent years I believe ragwort (and many other weeds) are becoming more common (possibly due to "Set-aside" or perhaps lack of finance to control the weeds) and it would seem to me quite possibe that the percentage of ragwort honey in any batch could reach higher levels than normal. I think that in New Zealand (I expect Nick will respond here!!!) they do have restrictions on taking honey at certain times or areas where there are poisonous plants. Unless you are a ragwort fancier then I would think it would be prudent to destroy any plants in your garden. I don't think it is a particularly nice plant and I am sure you could find something better. I think the danger to bees and honey is very slight but the seeds can travel a long distance and some poor horse might thank you in the following years if its field is not contaminated with ragwort! Having said all this I don't think any government has the right to sentence any plants or animals to extinction which is what would seem to be in their minds when they made this Act. -- Harry Scotland Knitwear Web pages: http://freespace.virgin.net/luichart.woollens/ Beekeeping Page: http://freespace.virgin.net/luichart.woollens/page8.html ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 23:15:59 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jeff Holbrook Subject: Re: White Wax: Acids!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Howdy! Just a note on the acid types mentioned here. James Max Peterson was correct when he wrote "Phosphoric Acid is used in soft drinks to give them a tart taste. It will burn the skin if left on in concentrated form. Hydrofluoric Acid will dissolve bone if left on the skin." I just wanted to point out that Hydrofluoric Acid, commonly referred to as HF by those who use it, is extremely dangerous. It is highly unlikely that most folks will ever see it. It is commonly used by the glass industry to etch glass to reduce surface flaws that may induce stress points and to frost glass, as it dissolves glass rather easily. The reason that it is so dangerous is that it can be quite deceptive. It may not cause your skin to have a burning sensation until well after you have been exposed to it. You may think that you got some water on you, at least for a while. This gives it time to start to go to work on your bone before you even realize what has happened. Once it gets into your system it reacts with calcium, stealing it from every available source, specifically bone, muscle and even neurons. It is so powerful that a five square inch skin exposure is very likely to be fatal. Death is usually caused by heart failure as the calcium required for muscle contraction (heart beat) is consumed by the HF. Even if death is not the end result, any exposure is likely to be a painful event. After a time, depending on concentration (molarity) the burning will begin. When it gets to the bone it will make you think that your bones are being cracked open by a nutcracker. That description was provided by a survivor of an HF exposure! You will get many injections of sodium gluconate around the effected bone. Morphine is usually required to control pain. Seizures will occur. Muscle control and nerves in the exposure area are likely to be irreparably damaged. Sorry to be so wordy but I want all to know the dangers of HF. Don't use it!! In the rare instance that someone does get a hold of a quantity of HF, I want them to know enough so that they just don't use it. We use it where I work every day. It is treated as the most dangerous stuff in the plant. It is! A single pinhole in a rubber glove will ruin your life. Please do not use Hydrofluoric Acid for anything. Thanks for listening! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 22:54:54 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: DNBrown Subject: Bleach for AFB Cleanup? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi list. We have a gamma sterilization program for cleaning up AFB bee gear and woodenware. I just borrowed an extractor that has not been used in some time. It is very dirty, and had some old frames still in it, with lots of moth webs and cocoons. I got to thinking about AFB. I cannit gamma sterilize the extractor, it's too big and we only do that in March anyway. So the question- will bleach solution (sodium hypochlorite) get AFB spores? How about iodine or bromine sterilizers used in brewing beer? What temperature kills the nasty spores? Anyone with any experience? I am sure there are folks with opinions! DB ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 21:02:19 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BILL HUGHES JR Subject: soy beans Richard, Here in west Tennessee the main two sources of nector is soybeans and cotton. Here my bees really pack it in this time of year and it is my main flow. Bill Hughes Bent Holly Honey Farm Brighton, Tennessee ____ Bill Hughes Bent Holly Honey Farm Brighton, Tennessee USA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:22:38 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Alan Pagliere Subject: Rough Handling MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII >I'm still new to handling bees and find myself clumsy when handling the >frames. I find my bees(Italian) are very patient with me. On several > ... >Buddy Gauthier I am new to handling bees too, and though I envy you your bees' gentleness, I must say that the most useful tool I have found so far is the frame grip (fram gripper, frame grabber, whatever it's called). I don't know whether my appreciation for this tool is a clear indication of my novice status, but I just loosen the frame from position with the hive tool in one hand and then easily, gently, with no chance of losing hold of the thing, lift the frame right out. I can hold the frame with one hand, examine it easily, etc. For around $8 - $10, you might give it a try. ------------------------------------------ | Alan Pagliere | | Ann Arbor, MI | | pagliere@umich.edu | | http://www.umich.edu/~pagliere/ | |------------------------------------------| ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 13:10:44 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Leo Walford Subject: White-backed bees Dear Bee-colleagues A friend and I look after three hives in his garden. One of the hives, and it's one that is REALLY flourishing, has a proportion of bees which seem to have very white backs (thorax, not abdomen). Otherwise they look normal and they appear to behave normally and the other bees do not seem to react badly to them. Is this a sign of disease, and therefore something we should be worried about, or is it just an interesting curiosity? Any thoughts/suggestions are welcome. Thanks Leo Walford London, UK ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:49:11 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michelle Greene <76053.704@COMPUSERVE.COM> Subject: Bee Purchase.... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 I have been trying to purchase 10 lbs of bees , without much success.... I would like them right away....Any and all help would beeee apreciated... Thanks to all in advance .. Bobby from Gardiner NY USA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 09:57:13 -0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aserradero Federacion Subject: Hello MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01BDCCEA.11F19320" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Este es un mensaje con mzltiples partes en formato MIME. ------=_NextPart_000_01BDCCEA.11F19320 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Good morning from Argentine It is my first comunication with your list, I am using a Spanish groins translator to communicate me, please excuse the mistakes. A curiosity: You know as melting honey tended without heating it? Since they use a carrot chunk in a sump with this honey and then count me the results. Bye Marcelo Confalonieri Argentine ------=_NextPart_000_01BDCCEA.11F19320 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable



=          Good morning from = Argentine


=          It is my first = comunication with your list,
=          I am using a = Spanish groins translator to communicate me,
=          please excuse the = mistakes.


=          A = curiosity:

=          You know as = melting honey tended without heating it?  
=          Since they use a = carrot chunk in a sump with this honey and
=          then count me the = results.

=          Bye

         Marcelo = Confalonieri
=          Argentine

------=_NextPart_000_01BDCCEA.11F19320-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 09:13:33 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Charles Frederic Andros Subject: Re: White-backed bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Leo, Regarding White-backed bees, you may be seeing chicory pollen on the thorax,as a longitudinal stripe 2 mm. wide. Charles Andros Linden Apiaries/Boulder Wall Gardens 1 McLean Road Walpole, NH 03608-0165 603-756-9056 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:25:37 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Keeler, Lisa" Subject: Creamed Honey Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There was a good article in the August Bee Culture magasine. Lisa K. Zionsville IN ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:05:09 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bonnie Pierson Subject: Re: White-backed bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit These bees are foraging on Jewelweed. Bonnie Pierson bonbee@aol.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 17:53:03 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re: oops phosphoric acid mistake Hi All / James Oops, sorry you were right about the phosphoric acid being not so dangerous. I think I meant one of the others. There are three so called phosphorus oxyacids, one of which is the one I used, and the merk warnings for it are quite extensive, including the mention of the danger to skin, the need to wear a mask and avoid inhalation of vapours and so on. Sorry about that. Keep well Garth Garth Cambray Camdini Apiaries Grahamstown Apis mellifera capensis Eastern Cape Prov. South Africa Time = Honey After careful consideration, I have decided that if I am ever a V.I.P the I. may not stand for important. (rather influential, ignorant, idiotic, intelectual, illadvised etc) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 14:52:30 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Spiekhout Subject: Re: Creamed Honey Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I think that I read that creamed honey was was you made out of honey that had already granulated thereby making it a salable product. True or false? Richard ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 16:15:01 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Parker Subject: INTRODUCTION Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I'm Michael Parker . I live in Provo Utah. I currently own 5 hives, 2 of which are double queen colonies. I would like to know if anyone can give me information on various ways of managing double queen hives - more simple ways.I would also like to know if there is any effective way to overwinter a nuc . ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 07:36:52 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: ddavidd Subject: Re: Bee Purchase.... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you cant find anyone closer and want to ship from California. There are some for sale. The guy was selling the whole hive brood chamber and all for $75. I would have to get you the phone number. David -----Original Message----- From: Michelle Greene <76053.704@COMPUSERVE.COM> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Date: Friday, August 21, 1998 5:54 AM Subject: Bee Purchase.... > I have been trying to purchase 10 lbs of bees , without much >success.... I would like them > > right away....Any and all help would beeee apreciated... > > Thanks to all in advance .. > > Bobby from Gardiner NY USA >