From mthunzeker@aol.com Mon Aug 8 12:45:29 EDT 1994 Article: 666 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.cr1.aol.com!search01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: mthunzeker@aol.com (MTHunzeker) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide Date: 4 Aug 1994 23:51:05 -0400 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 20 Sender: root@search01.news.aol.com Message-ID: <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: search01.news.aol.com (This seems to be my night for insecticide questions.) A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name right) for treating corn just after it has tassled. According to one of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" (probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots). Is this actually a legal use of PENCAP? Does anyone have any experience with this? Are there studies we can use to demonstrate the danger of PENCAP? Has anyone been successful in forcing limits on the use of PENCAP? Any available information would be greatly appreciated. Mike Hunzeker MTHunzeker@aol.com Boulder County Colorado Beekeeper From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Mon Aug 8 12:45:30 EDT 1994 Article: 667 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. References: <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com> Date: Fri, 5 Aug 1994 12:20:35 GMT Lines: 24 In article <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com>, MTHunzeker wrote: >A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name >right) for treating corn just after it has tassled. According to one >of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, >PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but >the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" >(probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots). Mike, check with your state apiarist, about the law. Here in VA, if there are known bees present, an applicator must notify the beekeeeper well ahead of time before application, for it is illegal to spray during bee flight as per the label. PENCAP-M resembles pollen, and since bees are working corn, gathering pollen, PENCAP-M, applied at this time , would be deadly to colonies foraging. The applicator needs to know that there are bees present. Involve your Dept. of Agriculture in this issue, bee inspection or the State apiarist's office, but get somebody on the situation. Label laws are very hard to enforce in bee kills. Adam (VA Bee inspector) -- ============================================================================ Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu =============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Mon Aug 8 12:45:31 EDT 1994 Article: 668 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Insecticide in bee venom? Date: Fri, 05 Aug 94 08:43:43 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 13 Message-ID: <170097AC3S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> References: <31scrh$n7j@search01.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu In article <31scrh$n7j@search01.news.aol.com> mthunzeker@aol.com (MTHunzeker) writes: >So we are wondering if it is possible for a bee to pass on an >insecticide in her venom? Has any research been performed in this >area? Stating up front that this is mere speculation on my part, I would imagine that insecticide would do in/off/kill a bee before there would be time for any insecticidal residues to be absorbed/transferred to bee venom. Furthermore, I'd speculate that a poisoned bee would not be up to the task of defending a hive or stinging a beekeeper: she'd be too busy kicking the bucket! From rsrodger@wam.umd.edu Mon Aug 8 12:45:32 EDT 1994 Article: 669 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!rsrodger From: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu (R S Rodgers) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 12:14:54 -0500 Organization: University of Maryland College Park Lines: 18 Message-ID: <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu> References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> Reply-To: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: rac6.wam.umd.edu Originator: rsrodger@rac6.wam.umd.edu In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>, SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) wrote: > (worst case scenario (American Foulbrood) calls for > treatment by fire). Pardon a question from an interested reader (no knowledge whatsoever of beekeeping), but what are "Robber Bees" (wasps?) and what is American Foulbrood? I ask because I'm curious as to what kinds of diseases strike bees. In my pesticide class, we covered the use of biological agents instead of chemical pesticides (fungi, etc.), but nothing about diseases that strike beneficial insects. -- Previous .sig deleted because some people couldn't parse "from email _received_ re: a post on comp.sys.powerpc." From sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu Mon Aug 8 12:45:33 EDT 1994 Article: 670 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!overload.lbl.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!mp.cs.niu.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!aries!sandrock From: sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: The hive ain't empty... Date: 5 Aug 94 20:05:12 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 38 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: aries.scs.uiuc.edu Since I stirred things up a bit with my questions about empty hives and robber bees, I thought it might be good to let people know what I've found since then. Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned me somewhat. The bees seemed quite calm and gentle. A dozen or two were floating around the hive, a few seemed to check me out, but they mostly seemed to ignore me--a rather gratifying attitude to my way of thinking. :-) I could easily see dozens of bees crawling around on the frames, and one thing that puzzled me a bit was they mostly seemed to ignore the smoke I would puff at them occasionally. Still, it felt reassuring to have the smoker handy. I'm going out of town this weekend, but next week I intend to look at a few more frames and try to spot the queen and/or active brood cells. Anyway, my newbie impression is that a colony has indeed moved in, but perhaps someone would care to interpret what I've seen so far. Thanks again to everyone for the helpful comments. Mark Sandrock -- Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign "Fruechte reifen durch die Sonne, Chemical Sciences Computer Center Menschen durch die Liebe." 505 S. Mathews Ave., Urbana, IL 61801 --Julius Langbehn Email: sandrock@uiuc.edu From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug 8 12:45:35 EDT 1994 Article: 671 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!uunet!newsserver.tasc.com!newsserver.read.tasc.com!rshough.read.tasc.com!user From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 17:56:06 -0500 Organization: TASC Lines: 55 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: rshough.read.tasc.com In article <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com>, Paul.Ferroni@ab.com wrote: > In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>, SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) writes: > > I'm surprised that there isn't more concern about the "Empty Hive" > > thread that has been going on the past few days. > > [...munch...] > > > And while I'm on my soapbox, does anyone else have a problem with the > > moth balls on top of the frames suggestion? Especially when the very > > same posting states that the wax WILL absorb moth ball chemicals! > > Can you spell honey contamination? I can just picture a honey judge: > > "Hmmm. Nice color. Pleasant order with just the right subtle > > undertones of moth balls!" Glad I am that I've never had the pleasure. > > > > I am the poster of the mothballs suggestion... My (longwinded) comments > follow. [...munch...] > NOTE: No mention of Paradichlorobenzene (moth balls) in this section. Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!! There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her sweaters (I forget the chemical name), and then there is Paradichlorobenzene (PDB) that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth. I'm under the impression that use of PDB on stored comb is widespread, and not detrimental to the comb, although there is a need to air out the combs for several days prior to putting them on the hives. While my mom's moth balls would probably kill the wax moth, I'm pretty sure that there is a problem with that chemical staying in the wax. Besides, my mom's moth balls aren't labeled (read legal) for use on combs (I think PDB is labeled for use on stored comb... isn't it??) Any comment, Aaron?? > The bottom line is that its obviously best to keep stong hives, and store > your empty supers in sealed bags, in cold areas (freezing) where possible. Amen to that!! Have a good weekend, all! Rick Hough **************************************************** * Rick Hough * email: rshough@tasc.com * * TASC * Phone: (617) 942-2000 * * 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX: (617) 942-7100 * * Reading, MA 01867 * * **************************************************** SET DISCLAIMER ON The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's. From rshough@tasc.com Mon Aug 8 12:45:36 EDT 1994 Article: 672 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!uunet!newsserver.tasc.com!newsserver.read.tasc.com!rshough.read.tasc.com!user From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 18:16:14 -0500 Organization: TASC Lines: 36 Message-ID: References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: rshough.read.tasc.com In article <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu>, rsrodger@wam.umd.edu wrote: > In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>, > SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) wrote: > > (worst case scenario (American Foulbrood) calls for > > treatment by fire). > > Pardon a question from an interested reader (no knowledge whatsoever > of beekeeping), but what are "Robber Bees" (wasps?) and what is > American Foulbrood? Robber Bees = honey bees that come from a different hive to steal honey from a weak or uninhabited hive. American Foulbrood (AFB) is a disease of honeybee brood (young bees) - it strikes the pupal stage, and is fatal to the individual bees that it infects. If enough individuals get it, it can kill an entire hive. It is spread by spores, which can contaminate the honey (thus the transference of AFB by robber bees), as well as the combs. AFB spores are not dangerous to humans - our digestive system takes care of that, but the poor bees don't fare so well. The darn spores are very tough to kill, and thus the fire treatment is the method of choice for dealing with serious infections. Hope this answers your questions. Rick **************************************************** * Rick Hough * email: rshough@tasc.com * * TASC * Phone: (617) 942-2000 * * 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX: (617) 942-7100 * * Reading, MA 01867 * * **************************************************** SET DISCLAIMER ON The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's. From chowe@cthoneybee.win.net Mon Aug 8 12:45:37 EDT 1994 Article: 673 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!swiss.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!witch!cthoneybee!chowe Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Message-ID: <138@cthoneybee.win.net> References: <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com> Reply-To: chowe@cthoneybee.win.net (Charles Howe) From: chowe@cthoneybee.win.net (Charles Howe) Date: Sat, 06 Aug 1994 06:04:57 GMT Subject: Re: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide Lines: 68 In article <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com>, MTHunzeker (mthunzeker@aol.com) writes: >(This seems to be my night for insecticide questions.) > >A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name >right) for treating corn just after it has tassled. According to one >of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, >PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but >the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" >(probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots). > >Is this actually a legal use of PENCAP? Does anyone have any >experience with this? Are there studies we can use to demonstrate the >danger of PENCAP? Has anyone been successful in forcing limits on the >use of PENCAP? > >Any available information would be greatly appreciated. > >Mike Hunzeker >MTHunzeker@aol.com >Boulder County Colorado Beekeeper > > Oh yes, Pencap-M is micro-encapsilated methylparathion as I recall. Until Connecticut's regulation was modified to stop the use of this material on tasseling corn we were loosing many colonies to methylparathion poisoning every year in CT. This stuff is particularly deadly to bees since they apparantly gather the stuff along with the pollen (they seem to *not* be able to discriminate between pollen and the capsules of insecticide). Once the stuff is brought back to the colony it gets incorporated into the combs (wax probably) and is left there when the colony expires. When new bees are installed into the colony they may also die from the remaining material in the combs. For our bees corn pollen ranks up there with dandylion pollen as favorites among the top five. When corn tassels my bees pollen production jumps from about 1/3 cup per day to 2 cups of corn pollen. To get a regulation limiting the use of Pencap-M in CT. we started by sending insecticide killed bees to the State Entomologist for analysis. This showed that, as I recall, about 1/2 of the bees were killed by the active ingredient in Pencap-M. If it wasn't 1/2 it was the largest single insecticide killer of bees. At that point, we (the CT. Beekeepers Assn.) hired a lawyer for advice and the process of getting a regulation in CT. stopping the use of Pencap-M on tasseling corn left the Association with a substantial debt. We went through this process over 10 years ago. I don't know if it ended up in a change in the label for other states, but Connecticut's more limiting use restrictions for Pencap-M still stands. It is noteworthy, that after the regulation went into affect the number of insecticide poisonings sharply declined. If more detailed information is required I will try to come up with names and addresses of people who worked closely with the problem at that time. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- | Chuck Howe - Editor | Phone or FAX: (203)491-2338 | | Connecticut Honey Bee | 86, 5 1/2 Mile Road | | INTERNET - CHOWE@CTHONEYBEE.WIN.NET | Goshen, CT. 06756 | | COMPUSERVE - 72726.1437@COMPUSERVE.COM | USA | ----------------------------------------------------------------------- From rsrodger@wam.umd.edu Mon Aug 8 12:45:39 EDT 1994 Article: 674 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!rsrodger From: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu (R S Rodgers) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Sat, 06 Aug 1994 10:22:17 -0500 Organization: University of Maryland College Park Lines: 10 Message-ID: References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu> Reply-To: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: rac2.wam.umd.edu Originator: rsrodger@rac2.wam.umd.edu In article , rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote: > Hope this answers your questions. Yes, thanks. -- Previous .sig deleted because some people couldn't parse "from email _received_ re: a post on comp.sys.powerpc." From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Mon Aug 8 12:45:40 EDT 1994 Article: 675 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!halls1.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 00:45:27 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 16 Message-ID: References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-03.cc.monash.edu.au In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) writes: >From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) >Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? >Date: Wed, 03 Aug 94 10:06:08 EDT >I'm surprised that there isn't more concern about the "Empty Hive" >thread that has been going on the past few days. The scenario was In quick defence of myself, I did express some such concerns (I always do.... I am on a CRUSADE against diseases...my fathers entire apiary was wiped out by AFB) I did actaully reply along that vein, but from my other account, and I don't seem to be able to get the news posting facility on that acount to work... Adrian (trying to help myself this time....) From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Mon Aug 8 12:45:41 EDT 1994 Article: 676 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!roberts-1f3-03.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty... Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 00:59:21 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 31 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-03.cc.monash.edu.au In article sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) writes: >From: sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) >Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling >about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as That sounds reasonably typical of a colony (to me at least) >opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb >on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so >thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead >removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the The way I usually open up a hive is to remove one of the edge frames, in your case, the shady side one as it would have less bees and wax on it, then move the others across so that you have room to manipulate them. >top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared >to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if Find some literature on AFB, and compare any pictures in it with what you see...also chalk brrod, EFB, and other brood diseases. If you are still in doubt, cut a piece of the affected comb and send it to a bee inspector type place...they will be able to give an accurate diagnosis (free in australia...) apart from all that, good luck, and enjoy. Adrian. From at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Mon Aug 8 12:45:42 EDT 1994 Article: 677 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!at664 From: at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (R John Northcote) Subject: Re: What do I do about skunks? Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (Usenet News Admin) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 01:11:53 GMT Lines: 16 Skunks will scratch at the entrance and eat the bees as they come out to investigate. I have some bottom boards with 3/8 inch scratches in them from the skunks. I have found a dead skunk in one of my yards but otherwise know of two methods which work. The first is to have a landlord (eg farmer) who shoots them for me with asking - aim for the backbone/neck sho he doesn't 'fire'. THe other method is to inject a raw egg with cynaide or arsenic and bury the egg in front of the hive (one inch or so). You'll find the skunk nearby. Buying cyanide/arseic is a sometimes a problem though - depends on the state/province you live in. -- R John Northcote c/o National Capital Freenet From at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Mon Aug 8 12:45:43 EDT 1994 Article: 678 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!at664 From: at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (R John Northcote) Subject: Re: 1993 Honey Prices Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (Usenet News Admin) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 01:18:06 GMT Lines: 11 Prices in US are usually by the pound (remember that quaint Measure?). Here in Canada we usually quote honey in pounds as well (except for the government which uses Kilos). In 93 Canadian wholesale prices were in the 60-65 cents/pound range in 45 gal (CDN) barrels. At the time the exchange rate was about 1 CDN$ = .79 US$ (currently 72 cnets). -- R John Northcote c/o National Capital Freenet From sph@usgp4.ATT.COM Mon Aug 8 12:45:44 EDT 1994 Article: 679 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!panther.Gsu.EDU!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!ncar!uchinews!att-out!nntpa!nntpa.cb.att.com!sph From: sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill) Subject: old honey Message-ID: Sender: news@nntpa.cb.att.com (Netnews Administration) Nntp-Posting-Host: usgp4.ih.att.com Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 17:02:26 GMT Lines: 19 I have one hive of bees down in central Il, and I have 4 gallons of honey left that is 3 - 5 years old. It used to taste pretty good, but it has gotten dark, is crystalized, and does not taste that great anymore. It was not stored in the best of conditions. If I feed this to my bees will it make this year's crop dark and taste old? Or will the bees "freshen it up" somewhat? One more question: I have had this colony for 7 years now, and it was re-queened 2 years before I bought it. Should I consider buying a new queen next year, or should I just let them go as long as they seem strong ( and they looked great yesterday ). Thanks in advance Stephen P. Hill sph@uscbu.ih.att.com From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Mon Aug 8 12:45:46 EDT 1994 Article: 680 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!roberts-1f3-07.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: old honey Date: Mon, 8 Aug 1994 07:22:30 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 31 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-07.cc.monash.edu.au In article sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill) writes: >From: sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill) >honey left that is 3 - 5 years old. It used to taste pretty good, but >If I feed this to my bees will it make this year's crop dark and >taste old? Or will the bees "freshen it up" somewhat? Usually bees wont store honey that is given to them in a honey condition, they will just eat it, and use it for brood food, so it shouldn't affect the honey quality. BUT are you sure (if it wasn't stored in good conditions) that it is disease free??? >One more question: I have had this colony for 7 years now, and it was >re-queened 2 years before I bought it. Should I consider buying a new >queen next year, or should I just let them go as long as they seem >strong ( and they looked great yesterday ). Well...the naverage life span of a queen is about two years, so you should have had a few queens since then, although you may not have noticed. Some beekeepers requeen every two to four years, but I only do so if I have an unproducitve hive, or one that is paricularly unpleasant to work with. I also like to requeen if I am splitting a hive, because there is a theory that leaving a "swarm induced" queen will promote the swarm impulse gene... if there is such a thing. Adrian (was I helpful this timt?? hu? huh? was I??) From roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com Mon Aug 8 12:45:48 EDT 1994 Article: 681 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!rohvm1!roh033.mah48d Nntp-Posting-Host: 136.141.220.39 Date: Mon, 8 Aug 1994 07:26:06 -0400 From: roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com (John E. Taylor III) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Distribution: world Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Message-ID: References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com> , rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote: > In article <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com>, Paul.Ferroni@ab.com wrote: > > Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!! > There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her sweaters > (I forget the chemical name), and then there is Paradichlorobenzene (PDB) > that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth. The "other" mothballs (the ones you should NOT use) are naphthalene. It's a hydrocarbon (polycyclic hydrocarbon, if you're into details) that would be quite soluble in wax and would thus diffuse readily into the comb. -- John Taylor (W3ZID) | "The opinions expressed are those of the roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com | writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company." From altabios@bham.ac.uk Mon Aug 8 12:45:50 EDT 1994 Article: 682 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!panther.Gsu.EDU!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!fulcrum!bham!usenet From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty... Date: 8 Aug 1994 12:10:14 GMT Organization: The University of Birmingham, UK Lines: 53 Message-ID: <3257b6$i3o@sun4.bham.ac.uk> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: bcs118.bham.ac.uk X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.80 In article , sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) says: > >Since I stirred things up a bit with my questions about empty hives >and robber bees, I thought it might be good to let people know what >I've found since then. > >Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling >about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as >opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb >on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so >thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead >removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the >top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared >to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if >this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned >me somewhat. > >The bees seemed quite calm and gentle. A dozen or two were floating >around the hive, a few seemed to check me out, but they mostly seemed to >ignore me--a rather gratifying attitude to my way of thinking. :-) > >I could easily see dozens of bees crawling around on the frames, and >one thing that puzzled me a bit was they mostly seemed to ignore the >smoke I would puff at them occasionally. Still, it felt reassuring to >have the smoker handy. > >I'm going out of town this weekend, but next week I intend to look at >a few more frames and try to spot the queen and/or active brood cells. > >Anyway, my newbie impression is that a colony has indeed moved in, >but perhaps someone would care to interpret what I've seen so far. > >Thanks again to everyone for the helpful comments. > >Mark Sandrock >-- >Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign "Fruechte reifen durch die Sonne, >Chemical Sciences Computer Center Menschen durch die Liebe." >505 S. Mathews Ave., Urbana, IL 61801 --Julius Langbehn >Email: sandrock@uiuc.edu Seeing brood cells with the tops broken is a disturbing sign. The only time this should happen is when the new bee is coming out. The cap is then quickly removed and the cell cleaned up for the next occupant. It may be that these contain dead bees and they have been opened by the new workers. It's hard to quantify numbers of bees by Email but you should be seeing frames covered with bees, in their hundreds. Certainly they may not move for smoke, the main effect of smoke is to make them feed and get so full they can't sting you. I would suggest looking for eggs and brood. If they are there, you have a working queen. From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Mon Aug 8 12:45:50 EDT 1994 Article: 683 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 10:52:16 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 69 Message-ID: <1700C98E5S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu Some final comments on my "Empty Hive" missal. First, I'm glad that readers saw through the flames and took the face value of my post. Bees will do what bees will do, beekeeper or not. There are no value judgments involved. Bees will visit an empty hive, irregardless of the reasons why the hive is empty. Valid reasons or bad excuses don't matter to the bees who see an empty hive as an empty hive. Concerning the moth ball thread, I guess it breaks down into a couple of things: commercial vs hobby beekeeping and greens vs browns (organic vs chemicals). I am a hobby beekeeper with twenty years experience. My beekeeping concerns are small potatoes. I don't have to store large numbers of honey supers and am able to spend more time/labor tending my equipment. My goal in keeping bees is to be outside enjoying the buzz. The hobby is its own reward, the honey harvest is a bonus. I also lean towards the green side. I garden organically whenever possible, although I've been known to resort to herbicides (flower gardens only, never vegetable/consumable gardens) when the weeding task is beyond my ability to handle it organically. I do however, avoid nonorganic pesticides at all costs. Better to lose to the buggers than poison them with chemicals in my book. This explains my distaste for fumigants, sanctioned or not. I too got out my copy of "The_Hive_and_the_Honeybee" and read up on fumigants. Finding a reference that says that it's ok to use PDB and/or moth crystals doesn't make it ok for ME to use it/them. Knowing that the U.S. government says that after three days of airing out the supers they will be "OK" doesn't necessarily give me comfort, although I ALWAYS believe whatever the governments says ;-) . As a small potatoes beekeeper, I am able to wrap ALL of my honey supers in plastic garbage bags and with diligence, I can avoid problems with wax moths. I have no need to resort to fumigants when mechanics will serve my needs. I would probably sing a different tune were my operation multiplied a hundred fold, but I am more comfortable knowing that my honey has not been exposed to fumigants, whether used properly or not. When a query is posted about whether honey is exposed to chemicals, the answer can't be "No, it was produced in honey supers that were exposed to chemicals in a sanctioned manner", the answer is "Yes, the honey has been exposed to chemicals". It's up to the consumer to decide to what degree they are comfortable with the USDA sanctioned exposure. Laying all my cards on the table, I'll admit to using Apistan. I've lost too many hives to mites, and there is no alternative at the present time, so USDA sanctions away, I use the strips and follow the "moving target" directions. I'm not reassured by following the directions and I know that at least on a molecular level, my honey contains a contaminate that it did not before I started using the strips. I'm not comfortable with whatever level of contaminates there may or may not be, but given the alternatives I'll use the strips and live with the discomfort. This is not meant to start off an organic vs chemicals flame war, that's already covered on rec.gardens. I'll continue to avoid fumigants, I'll continue to use Apistan, I'll continue to monitor progress on genetic resistance, and I'll continue to be comforted in knowing that the honey produced by my bees has a lower level of exposure to sanctioned chemicals than most. Cheers! Aaron Morris P.S. On a different note, while browsing "The_Hive_and_the_Honeybee" I stumbled across a reference to a US president in the '70s who was a real believer in the positive benefits of bee pollen, but the reference didn't say which US president (Nixon, Ford, Carter, Regan). I'll bet it was Carter, but does anyone know for sure? From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Mon Aug 8 12:45:52 EDT 1994 Article: 684 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: "Mothballs" as a fumigant? Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 11:12:33 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 30 Message-ID: <1700C9DA1S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu >In article , >rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote: > >> ... >> Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!! >> There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her >> sweaters (I forget the chemical name), and then there is >> Paradichlorobenzene (PDB) that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth. > >The "other" mothballs (the ones you should NOT use) are naphthalene. >It's a hydrocarbon (polycyclic hydrocarbon, if you're into details) >that would be quite soluble in wax and would thus diffuse readily into >the comb. >-- >John Taylor (W3ZID) | "The opinions expressed are those of the >roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com | writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company. " Thanks to Rick and especially John for clarifying this. Quite a difference there, no? That's one thing that bothers me about the Information Superhighway: the ability to disperse misinformation worldwide. Perhaps there is more to be learned from Adrian's sig ("No help at All!?") than meets the eye! (Not attributing misinformation to Adrian, just acknowledging his sig). Again, thanks to those who set this record straight! Keep up the good work! Perhaps there should be a very explicit section in the FAQ along the lines "Can I use my mother's moth balls to control wax moths?"? Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Mon Aug 8 12:45:52 EDT 1994 Article: 685 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty... Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 11:14:44 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 42 Message-ID: <1700C9E28S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu In article sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) writes: > ... one of the middle frames ... had some honey cells along the >top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared >to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if >this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned >me somewhat. This COULD be a bad sign. Normal appearance for hatched out cells is a bee emerging/chewing its way through the cell cap. If there are no emerging bees evident there may me reasons for concern. If there are dead bees behind the broken caps there is definite cause for concern, as this is a symptom of American Foulbrood. The good news is that you're poking around in the hive! Check again, but go throught the entire hive. The capping pattern as you described may be normal, but it's hard to say without knowing what things looked like surrounding that frame. It may be the case that the middle frame you picked was an area of the brood chamber that had just hatched all of the bees and had not yet been reused by the queen. Hopefully, this is the case. Or, it may be indicative of a brood disease. The things to look for are whether the cells are empty and clean, ready for the next generation, and how the pattern you observed compares to the pattern of the surrounding frames. Also, use your other senses: sound and smell. These are harder senses to develope and exploit when working your bees, but they are very valuable to the beekeeper. Listen to the buzzing of the bees. Is it a busy, hive at work sort of sound (that's the impression I get from your description) or is it a stressed tone? It's hard to describe the difference, and perhaps the destinction only comes with experience. Smell is also important. Does the hive smell normal? Literature describes the smell of foulbrood as sickly sweet, but it's hard to put those words into an olfactory experience other than to experience it. And if you are able to experience it, learn it(!), because it's not an experience you'll care to oft' repeat. Otherwise, it sounds like you're getting into the experience of beekeeping. Good luck with your subsequent inspections! Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! From mthunzeker@aol.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:16 EDT 1994 Article: 665 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.cr1.aol.com!search01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: mthunzeker@aol.com (MTHunzeker) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Insecticide in bee venom? Date: 4 Aug 1994 23:49:05 -0400 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 16 Sender: news@search01.news.aol.com Message-ID: <31scrh$n7j@search01.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: search01.news.aol.com One of the members of our local beekeepers association was checking his colonies after finding some spray kill and got stung. (They sure don't like to get sprayed!) His reaction was quite a bit more severe than usual with a very large red area and swelling. He was worried he had developed a serious allergic reaction, but has been stung numerous times since then and only had a standard (mild) response. So we are wondering if it is possible for a bee to pass on an insecticide in her venom? Has any research been performed in this area? Mike Hunzeker MTHunzeker@aol.com Boulder County Colorado Beekeeper From mthunzeker@aol.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:17 EDT 1994 Article: 666 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!godot.cc.duq.edu!newsfeed.pitt.edu!uunet!newstf01.cr1.aol.com!search01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: mthunzeker@aol.com (MTHunzeker) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide Date: 4 Aug 1994 23:51:05 -0400 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 20 Sender: root@search01.news.aol.com Message-ID: <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: search01.news.aol.com (This seems to be my night for insecticide questions.) A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name right) for treating corn just after it has tassled. According to one of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" (probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots). Is this actually a legal use of PENCAP? Does anyone have any experience with this? Are there studies we can use to demonstrate the danger of PENCAP? Has anyone been successful in forcing limits on the use of PENCAP? Any available information would be greatly appreciated. Mike Hunzeker MTHunzeker@aol.com Boulder County Colorado Beekeeper From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Fri Aug 12 10:57:18 EDT 1994 Article: 667 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. References: <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com> Date: Fri, 5 Aug 1994 12:20:35 GMT Lines: 24 In article <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com>, MTHunzeker wrote: >A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name >right) for treating corn just after it has tassled. According to one >of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, >PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but >the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" >(probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots). Mike, check with your state apiarist, about the law. Here in VA, if there are known bees present, an applicator must notify the beekeeeper well ahead of time before application, for it is illegal to spray during bee flight as per the label. PENCAP-M resembles pollen, and since bees are working corn, gathering pollen, PENCAP-M, applied at this time , would be deadly to colonies foraging. The applicator needs to know that there are bees present. Involve your Dept. of Agriculture in this issue, bee inspection or the State apiarist's office, but get somebody on the situation. Label laws are very hard to enforce in bee kills. Adam (VA Bee inspector) -- ============================================================================ Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu =============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:19 EDT 1994 Article: 668 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Insecticide in bee venom? Date: Fri, 05 Aug 94 08:43:43 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 13 Message-ID: <170097AC3S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> References: <31scrh$n7j@search01.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu In article <31scrh$n7j@search01.news.aol.com> mthunzeker@aol.com (MTHunzeker) writes: >So we are wondering if it is possible for a bee to pass on an >insecticide in her venom? Has any research been performed in this >area? Stating up front that this is mere speculation on my part, I would imagine that insecticide would do in/off/kill a bee before there would be time for any insecticidal residues to be absorbed/transferred to bee venom. Furthermore, I'd speculate that a poisoned bee would not be up to the task of defending a hive or stinging a beekeeper: she'd be too busy kicking the bucket! From rsrodger@wam.umd.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:20 EDT 1994 Article: 669 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!eff!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!rsrodger From: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu (R S Rodgers) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 12:14:54 -0500 Organization: University of Maryland College Park Lines: 18 Message-ID: <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu> References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> Reply-To: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: rac6.wam.umd.edu Originator: rsrodger@rac6.wam.umd.edu In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>, SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) wrote: > (worst case scenario (American Foulbrood) calls for > treatment by fire). Pardon a question from an interested reader (no knowledge whatsoever of beekeeping), but what are "Robber Bees" (wasps?) and what is American Foulbrood? I ask because I'm curious as to what kinds of diseases strike bees. In my pesticide class, we covered the use of biological agents instead of chemical pesticides (fungi, etc.), but nothing about diseases that strike beneficial insects. -- Previous .sig deleted because some people couldn't parse "from email _received_ re: a post on comp.sys.powerpc." From sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:22 EDT 1994 Article: 670 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!overload.lbl.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!mp.cs.niu.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!aries!sandrock From: sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: The hive ain't empty... Date: 5 Aug 94 20:05:12 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 38 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: aries.scs.uiuc.edu Since I stirred things up a bit with my questions about empty hives and robber bees, I thought it might be good to let people know what I've found since then. Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned me somewhat. The bees seemed quite calm and gentle. A dozen or two were floating around the hive, a few seemed to check me out, but they mostly seemed to ignore me--a rather gratifying attitude to my way of thinking. :-) I could easily see dozens of bees crawling around on the frames, and one thing that puzzled me a bit was they mostly seemed to ignore the smoke I would puff at them occasionally. Still, it felt reassuring to have the smoker handy. I'm going out of town this weekend, but next week I intend to look at a few more frames and try to spot the queen and/or active brood cells. Anyway, my newbie impression is that a colony has indeed moved in, but perhaps someone would care to interpret what I've seen so far. Thanks again to everyone for the helpful comments. Mark Sandrock -- Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign "Fruechte reifen durch die Sonne, Chemical Sciences Computer Center Menschen durch die Liebe." 505 S. Mathews Ave., Urbana, IL 61801 --Julius Langbehn Email: sandrock@uiuc.edu From rshough@tasc.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:23 EDT 1994 Article: 671 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!uunet!newsserver.tasc.com!newsserver.read.tasc.com!rshough.read.tasc.com!user From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 17:56:06 -0500 Organization: TASC Lines: 55 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: rshough.read.tasc.com In article <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com>, Paul.Ferroni@ab.com wrote: > In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>, SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) writes: > > I'm surprised that there isn't more concern about the "Empty Hive" > > thread that has been going on the past few days. > > [...munch...] > > > And while I'm on my soapbox, does anyone else have a problem with the > > moth balls on top of the frames suggestion? Especially when the very > > same posting states that the wax WILL absorb moth ball chemicals! > > Can you spell honey contamination? I can just picture a honey judge: > > "Hmmm. Nice color. Pleasant order with just the right subtle > > undertones of moth balls!" Glad I am that I've never had the pleasure. > > > > I am the poster of the mothballs suggestion... My (longwinded) comments > follow. [...munch...] > NOTE: No mention of Paradichlorobenzene (moth balls) in this section. Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!! There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her sweaters (I forget the chemical name), and then there is Paradichlorobenzene (PDB) that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth. I'm under the impression that use of PDB on stored comb is widespread, and not detrimental to the comb, although there is a need to air out the combs for several days prior to putting them on the hives. While my mom's moth balls would probably kill the wax moth, I'm pretty sure that there is a problem with that chemical staying in the wax. Besides, my mom's moth balls aren't labeled (read legal) for use on combs (I think PDB is labeled for use on stored comb... isn't it??) Any comment, Aaron?? > The bottom line is that its obviously best to keep stong hives, and store > your empty supers in sealed bags, in cold areas (freezing) where possible. Amen to that!! Have a good weekend, all! Rick Hough **************************************************** * Rick Hough * email: rshough@tasc.com * * TASC * Phone: (617) 942-2000 * * 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX: (617) 942-7100 * * Reading, MA 01867 * * **************************************************** SET DISCLAIMER ON The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's. From rshough@tasc.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:24 EDT 1994 Article: 672 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!uunet!newsserver.tasc.com!newsserver.read.tasc.com!rshough.read.tasc.com!user From: rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Fri, 05 Aug 1994 18:16:14 -0500 Organization: TASC Lines: 36 Message-ID: References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: rshough.read.tasc.com In article <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu>, rsrodger@wam.umd.edu wrote: > In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>, > SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) wrote: > > (worst case scenario (American Foulbrood) calls for > > treatment by fire). > > Pardon a question from an interested reader (no knowledge whatsoever > of beekeeping), but what are "Robber Bees" (wasps?) and what is > American Foulbrood? Robber Bees = honey bees that come from a different hive to steal honey from a weak or uninhabited hive. American Foulbrood (AFB) is a disease of honeybee brood (young bees) - it strikes the pupal stage, and is fatal to the individual bees that it infects. If enough individuals get it, it can kill an entire hive. It is spread by spores, which can contaminate the honey (thus the transference of AFB by robber bees), as well as the combs. AFB spores are not dangerous to humans - our digestive system takes care of that, but the poor bees don't fare so well. The darn spores are very tough to kill, and thus the fire treatment is the method of choice for dealing with serious infections. Hope this answers your questions. Rick **************************************************** * Rick Hough * email: rshough@tasc.com * * TASC * Phone: (617) 942-2000 * * 55 Walkers Brook Drive * FAX: (617) 942-7100 * * Reading, MA 01867 * * **************************************************** SET DISCLAIMER ON The above is my opinion, and not my employer's or anyone else's. From chowe@cthoneybee.win.net Fri Aug 12 10:57:25 EDT 1994 Article: 673 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!swiss.ans.net!malgudi.oar.net!witch!cthoneybee!chowe Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Message-ID: <138@cthoneybee.win.net> References: <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com> Reply-To: chowe@cthoneybee.win.net (Charles Howe) From: chowe@cthoneybee.win.net (Charles Howe) Date: Sat, 06 Aug 1994 06:04:57 GMT Subject: Re: PENCAP-M (?) Insecticide Lines: 68 In article <31scv9$n9e@search01.news.aol.com>, MTHunzeker (mthunzeker@aol.com) writes: >(This seems to be my night for insecticide questions.) > >A local aerial applicator is pushing PENCAP-M (I think I have the name >right) for treating corn just after it has tassled. According to one >of the commercial beekeepers in our local beekeepers association, >PENCAP is a serious threat to bees, especially in tassling corn, but >the applicator maintains that he "doesn't ever see any bees in corn" >(probably because he is flying 6 feet above it at 60 knots). > >Is this actually a legal use of PENCAP? Does anyone have any >experience with this? Are there studies we can use to demonstrate the >danger of PENCAP? Has anyone been successful in forcing limits on the >use of PENCAP? > >Any available information would be greatly appreciated. > >Mike Hunzeker >MTHunzeker@aol.com >Boulder County Colorado Beekeeper > > Oh yes, Pencap-M is micro-encapsilated methylparathion as I recall. Until Connecticut's regulation was modified to stop the use of this material on tasseling corn we were loosing many colonies to methylparathion poisoning every year in CT. This stuff is particularly deadly to bees since they apparantly gather the stuff along with the pollen (they seem to *not* be able to discriminate between pollen and the capsules of insecticide). Once the stuff is brought back to the colony it gets incorporated into the combs (wax probably) and is left there when the colony expires. When new bees are installed into the colony they may also die from the remaining material in the combs. For our bees corn pollen ranks up there with dandylion pollen as favorites among the top five. When corn tassels my bees pollen production jumps from about 1/3 cup per day to 2 cups of corn pollen. To get a regulation limiting the use of Pencap-M in CT. we started by sending insecticide killed bees to the State Entomologist for analysis. This showed that, as I recall, about 1/2 of the bees were killed by the active ingredient in Pencap-M. If it wasn't 1/2 it was the largest single insecticide killer of bees. At that point, we (the CT. Beekeepers Assn.) hired a lawyer for advice and the process of getting a regulation in CT. stopping the use of Pencap-M on tasseling corn left the Association with a substantial debt. We went through this process over 10 years ago. I don't know if it ended up in a change in the label for other states, but Connecticut's more limiting use restrictions for Pencap-M still stands. It is noteworthy, that after the regulation went into affect the number of insecticide poisonings sharply declined. If more detailed information is required I will try to come up with names and addresses of people who worked closely with the problem at that time. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- | Chuck Howe - Editor | Phone or FAX: (203)491-2338 | | Connecticut Honey Bee | 86, 5 1/2 Mile Road | | INTERNET - CHOWE@CTHONEYBEE.WIN.NET | Goshen, CT. 06756 | | COMPUSERVE - 72726.1437@COMPUSERVE.COM | USA | ----------------------------------------------------------------------- From rsrodger@wam.umd.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:26 EDT 1994 Article: 674 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!rsrodger From: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu (R S Rodgers) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Sat, 06 Aug 1994 10:22:17 -0500 Organization: University of Maryland College Park Lines: 10 Message-ID: References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <-LcGkO9RtM7B069yn@wam.umd.edu> Reply-To: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: rac2.wam.umd.edu Originator: rsrodger@rac2.wam.umd.edu In article , rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote: > Hope this answers your questions. Yes, thanks. -- Previous .sig deleted because some people couldn't parse "from email _received_ re: a post on comp.sys.powerpc." From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Fri Aug 12 10:57:27 EDT 1994 Article: 675 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!halls1.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 00:45:27 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 16 Message-ID: References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-03.cc.monash.edu.au In article <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) writes: >From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) >Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? >Date: Wed, 03 Aug 94 10:06:08 EDT >I'm surprised that there isn't more concern about the "Empty Hive" >thread that has been going on the past few days. The scenario was In quick defence of myself, I did express some such concerns (I always do.... I am on a CRUSADE against diseases...my fathers entire apiary was wiped out by AFB) I did actaully reply along that vein, but from my other account, and I don't seem to be able to get the news posting facility on that acount to work... Adrian (trying to help myself this time....) From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Fri Aug 12 10:57:28 EDT 1994 Article: 676 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!roberts-1f3-03.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty... Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 00:59:21 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 31 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-03.cc.monash.edu.au In article sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) writes: >From: sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) >Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling >about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as That sounds reasonably typical of a colony (to me at least) >opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb >on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so >thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead >removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the The way I usually open up a hive is to remove one of the edge frames, in your case, the shady side one as it would have less bees and wax on it, then move the others across so that you have room to manipulate them. >top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared >to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if Find some literature on AFB, and compare any pictures in it with what you see...also chalk brrod, EFB, and other brood diseases. If you are still in doubt, cut a piece of the affected comb and send it to a bee inspector type place...they will be able to give an accurate diagnosis (free in australia...) apart from all that, good luck, and enjoy. Adrian. From at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Fri Aug 12 10:57:29 EDT 1994 Article: 677 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!at664 From: at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (R John Northcote) Subject: Re: What do I do about skunks? Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (Usenet News Admin) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 01:11:53 GMT Lines: 16 Skunks will scratch at the entrance and eat the bees as they come out to investigate. I have some bottom boards with 3/8 inch scratches in them from the skunks. I have found a dead skunk in one of my yards but otherwise know of two methods which work. The first is to have a landlord (eg farmer) who shoots them for me with asking - aim for the backbone/neck sho he doesn't 'fire'. THe other method is to inject a raw egg with cynaide or arsenic and bury the egg in front of the hive (one inch or so). You'll find the skunk nearby. Buying cyanide/arseic is a sometimes a problem though - depends on the state/province you live in. -- R John Northcote c/o National Capital Freenet From at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA Fri Aug 12 10:57:30 EDT 1994 Article: 678 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!nott!cunews!freenet.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!at664 From: at664@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (R John Northcote) Subject: Re: 1993 Honey Prices Message-ID: Sender: news@freenet.carleton.ca (Usenet News Admin) Organization: The National Capital FreeNet, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 01:18:06 GMT Lines: 11 Prices in US are usually by the pound (remember that quaint Measure?). Here in Canada we usually quote honey in pounds as well (except for the government which uses Kilos). In 93 Canadian wholesale prices were in the 60-65 cents/pound range in 45 gal (CDN) barrels. At the time the exchange rate was about 1 CDN$ = .79 US$ (currently 72 cnets). -- R John Northcote c/o National Capital Freenet From sph@usgp4.ATT.COM Fri Aug 12 10:57:31 EDT 1994 Article: 679 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!panther.Gsu.EDU!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!ames!ncar!uchinews!att-out!nntpa!nntpa.cb.att.com!sph From: sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill) Subject: old honey Message-ID: Sender: news@nntpa.cb.att.com (Netnews Administration) Nntp-Posting-Host: usgp4.ih.att.com Organization: AT&T Bell Laboratories Date: Sun, 7 Aug 1994 17:02:26 GMT Lines: 19 I have one hive of bees down in central Il, and I have 4 gallons of honey left that is 3 - 5 years old. It used to taste pretty good, but it has gotten dark, is crystalized, and does not taste that great anymore. It was not stored in the best of conditions. If I feed this to my bees will it make this year's crop dark and taste old? Or will the bees "freshen it up" somewhat? One more question: I have had this colony for 7 years now, and it was re-queened 2 years before I bought it. Should I consider buying a new queen next year, or should I just let them go as long as they seem strong ( and they looked great yesterday ). Thanks in advance Stephen P. Hill sph@uscbu.ih.att.com From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Fri Aug 12 10:57:31 EDT 1994 Article: 680 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!roberts-1f3-07.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: old honey Date: Mon, 8 Aug 1994 07:22:30 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 31 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-07.cc.monash.edu.au In article sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill) writes: >From: sph@usgp4.ATT.COM (nac250300-Hill) >honey left that is 3 - 5 years old. It used to taste pretty good, but >If I feed this to my bees will it make this year's crop dark and >taste old? Or will the bees "freshen it up" somewhat? Usually bees wont store honey that is given to them in a honey condition, they will just eat it, and use it for brood food, so it shouldn't affect the honey quality. BUT are you sure (if it wasn't stored in good conditions) that it is disease free??? >One more question: I have had this colony for 7 years now, and it was >re-queened 2 years before I bought it. Should I consider buying a new >queen next year, or should I just let them go as long as they seem >strong ( and they looked great yesterday ). Well...the naverage life span of a queen is about two years, so you should have had a few queens since then, although you may not have noticed. Some beekeepers requeen every two to four years, but I only do so if I have an unproducitve hive, or one that is paricularly unpleasant to work with. I also like to requeen if I am splitting a hive, because there is a theory that leaving a "swarm induced" queen will promote the swarm impulse gene... if there is such a thing. Adrian (was I helpful this timt?? hu? huh? was I??) From roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:32 EDT 1994 Article: 681 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!rohvm1!roh033.mah48d Nntp-Posting-Host: 136.141.220.39 Date: Mon, 8 Aug 1994 07:26:06 -0400 From: roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com (John E. Taylor III) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Distribution: world Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Message-ID: References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com> , rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote: > In article <31ro0v$8hs@news1.hh.ab.com>, Paul.Ferroni@ab.com wrote: > > Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!! > There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her sweaters > (I forget the chemical name), and then there is Paradichlorobenzene (PDB) > that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth. The "other" mothballs (the ones you should NOT use) are naphthalene. It's a hydrocarbon (polycyclic hydrocarbon, if you're into details) that would be quite soluble in wax and would thus diffuse readily into the comb. -- John Taylor (W3ZID) | "The opinions expressed are those of the roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com | writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company." From altabios@bham.ac.uk Fri Aug 12 10:57:34 EDT 1994 Article: 682 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!panther.Gsu.EDU!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!uknet!fulcrum!bham!usenet From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty... Date: 8 Aug 1994 12:10:14 GMT Organization: The University of Birmingham, UK Lines: 53 Message-ID: <3257b6$i3o@sun4.bham.ac.uk> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: bcs118.bham.ac.uk X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.80 In article , sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) says: > >Since I stirred things up a bit with my questions about empty hives >and robber bees, I thought it might be good to let people know what >I've found since then. > >Today at lunchtime I opened the hive and found a lot of bees crawling >about. They were especially dense on the sunnier side of the hive as >opposed to the shady side. I could see that they were busy adding comb >on three frames closest to the side. In fact, these frames looked so >thick with comb that I did not initially try to move them, but instead >removed one of the middle frames. It had some honey cells along the >top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared >to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if >this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned >me somewhat. > >The bees seemed quite calm and gentle. A dozen or two were floating >around the hive, a few seemed to check me out, but they mostly seemed to >ignore me--a rather gratifying attitude to my way of thinking. :-) > >I could easily see dozens of bees crawling around on the frames, and >one thing that puzzled me a bit was they mostly seemed to ignore the >smoke I would puff at them occasionally. Still, it felt reassuring to >have the smoker handy. > >I'm going out of town this weekend, but next week I intend to look at >a few more frames and try to spot the queen and/or active brood cells. > >Anyway, my newbie impression is that a colony has indeed moved in, >but perhaps someone would care to interpret what I've seen so far. > >Thanks again to everyone for the helpful comments. > >Mark Sandrock >-- >Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign "Fruechte reifen durch die Sonne, >Chemical Sciences Computer Center Menschen durch die Liebe." >505 S. Mathews Ave., Urbana, IL 61801 --Julius Langbehn >Email: sandrock@uiuc.edu Seeing brood cells with the tops broken is a disturbing sign. The only time this should happen is when the new bee is coming out. The cap is then quickly removed and the cell cleaned up for the next occupant. It may be that these contain dead bees and they have been opened by the new workers. It's hard to quantify numbers of bees by Email but you should be seeing frames covered with bees, in their hundreds. Certainly they may not move for smoke, the main effect of smoke is to make them feed and get so full they can't sting you. I would suggest looking for eggs and brood. If they are there, you have a working queen. From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:35 EDT 1994 Article: 683 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty hive? Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 10:52:16 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 69 Message-ID: <1700C98E5S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> References: <170078E13S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu Some final comments on my "Empty Hive" missal. First, I'm glad that readers saw through the flames and took the face value of my post. Bees will do what bees will do, beekeeper or not. There are no value judgments involved. Bees will visit an empty hive, irregardless of the reasons why the hive is empty. Valid reasons or bad excuses don't matter to the bees who see an empty hive as an empty hive. Concerning the moth ball thread, I guess it breaks down into a couple of things: commercial vs hobby beekeeping and greens vs browns (organic vs chemicals). I am a hobby beekeeper with twenty years experience. My beekeeping concerns are small potatoes. I don't have to store large numbers of honey supers and am able to spend more time/labor tending my equipment. My goal in keeping bees is to be outside enjoying the buzz. The hobby is its own reward, the honey harvest is a bonus. I also lean towards the green side. I garden organically whenever possible, although I've been known to resort to herbicides (flower gardens only, never vegetable/consumable gardens) when the weeding task is beyond my ability to handle it organically. I do however, avoid nonorganic pesticides at all costs. Better to lose to the buggers than poison them with chemicals in my book. This explains my distaste for fumigants, sanctioned or not. I too got out my copy of "The_Hive_and_the_Honeybee" and read up on fumigants. Finding a reference that says that it's ok to use PDB and/or moth crystals doesn't make it ok for ME to use it/them. Knowing that the U.S. government says that after three days of airing out the supers they will be "OK" doesn't necessarily give me comfort, although I ALWAYS believe whatever the governments says ;-) . As a small potatoes beekeeper, I am able to wrap ALL of my honey supers in plastic garbage bags and with diligence, I can avoid problems with wax moths. I have no need to resort to fumigants when mechanics will serve my needs. I would probably sing a different tune were my operation multiplied a hundred fold, but I am more comfortable knowing that my honey has not been exposed to fumigants, whether used properly or not. When a query is posted about whether honey is exposed to chemicals, the answer can't be "No, it was produced in honey supers that were exposed to chemicals in a sanctioned manner", the answer is "Yes, the honey has been exposed to chemicals". It's up to the consumer to decide to what degree they are comfortable with the USDA sanctioned exposure. Laying all my cards on the table, I'll admit to using Apistan. I've lost too many hives to mites, and there is no alternative at the present time, so USDA sanctions away, I use the strips and follow the "moving target" directions. I'm not reassured by following the directions and I know that at least on a molecular level, my honey contains a contaminate that it did not before I started using the strips. I'm not comfortable with whatever level of contaminates there may or may not be, but given the alternatives I'll use the strips and live with the discomfort. This is not meant to start off an organic vs chemicals flame war, that's already covered on rec.gardens. I'll continue to avoid fumigants, I'll continue to use Apistan, I'll continue to monitor progress on genetic resistance, and I'll continue to be comforted in knowing that the honey produced by my bees has a lower level of exposure to sanctioned chemicals than most. Cheers! Aaron Morris P.S. On a different note, while browsing "The_Hive_and_the_Honeybee" I stumbled across a reference to a US president in the '70s who was a real believer in the positive benefits of bee pollen, but the reference didn't say which US president (Nixon, Ford, Carter, Regan). I'll bet it was Carter, but does anyone know for sure? From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:36 EDT 1994 Article: 684 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: "Mothballs" as a fumigant? Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 11:12:33 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 30 Message-ID: <1700C9DA1S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu >In article , >rshough@tasc.com (Rick Hough) wrote: > >> ... >> Ah - it suddenly becomes clear! There are two kinds of "moth balls"!! >> There is the kind that my mom uses to keep the moths out of her >> sweaters (I forget the chemical name), and then there is >> Paradichlorobenzene (PDB) that beekeepers use to deal with Wax moth. > >The "other" mothballs (the ones you should NOT use) are naphthalene. >It's a hydrocarbon (polycyclic hydrocarbon, if you're into details) >that would be quite soluble in wax and would thus diffuse readily into >the comb. >-- >John Taylor (W3ZID) | "The opinions expressed are those of the >roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com | writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company. " Thanks to Rick and especially John for clarifying this. Quite a difference there, no? That's one thing that bothers me about the Information Superhighway: the ability to disperse misinformation worldwide. Perhaps there is more to be learned from Adrian's sig ("No help at All!?") than meets the eye! (Not attributing misinformation to Adrian, just acknowledging his sig). Again, thanks to those who set this record straight! Keep up the good work! Perhaps there should be a very explicit section in the FAQ along the lines "Can I use my mother's moth balls to control wax moths?"? Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:37 EDT 1994 Article: 685 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: The hive ain't empty... Date: Mon, 08 Aug 94 11:14:44 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 42 Message-ID: <1700C9E28S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu In article sandrock@aries.scs.uiuc.edu (Mark Sandrock) writes: > ... one of the middle frames ... had some honey cells along the >top, which I remembered from before, but in the center there appeared >to be brood cells on which the covering was broken. I don't know if >this is a normal appearance for hatched out cells, so this concerned >me somewhat. This COULD be a bad sign. Normal appearance for hatched out cells is a bee emerging/chewing its way through the cell cap. If there are no emerging bees evident there may me reasons for concern. If there are dead bees behind the broken caps there is definite cause for concern, as this is a symptom of American Foulbrood. The good news is that you're poking around in the hive! Check again, but go throught the entire hive. The capping pattern as you described may be normal, but it's hard to say without knowing what things looked like surrounding that frame. It may be the case that the middle frame you picked was an area of the brood chamber that had just hatched all of the bees and had not yet been reused by the queen. Hopefully, this is the case. Or, it may be indicative of a brood disease. The things to look for are whether the cells are empty and clean, ready for the next generation, and how the pattern you observed compares to the pattern of the surrounding frames. Also, use your other senses: sound and smell. These are harder senses to develope and exploit when working your bees, but they are very valuable to the beekeeper. Listen to the buzzing of the bees. Is it a busy, hive at work sort of sound (that's the impression I get from your description) or is it a stressed tone? It's hard to describe the difference, and perhaps the destinction only comes with experience. Smell is also important. Does the hive smell normal? Literature describes the smell of foulbrood as sickly sweet, but it's hard to put those words into an olfactory experience other than to experience it. And if you are able to experience it, learn it(!), because it's not an experience you'll care to oft' repeat. Otherwise, it sounds like you're getting into the experience of beekeeping. Good luck with your subsequent inspections! Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! From hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch Fri Aug 12 10:57:38 EDT 1994 Article: 686 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!univ-lyon1.fr!swidir.switch.ch!scsing.switch.ch!elna.ethz.ch!otto-4.ethz.ch!user From: hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch (Hans-Ulrich THOMAS) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Varroa resistant honeybees Date: 11 Aug 1994 06:34:14 GMT Organization: Solid State Physics, ETHZ, Switzerland Lines: 14 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: otto-4.ethz.ch Some days ago somebody enquired about such bees. The journal "Bee World" carried in its issue 2 1994 an interesting article written by Mr. Ralph Buechler about this aspect. The answer is: Yes this behaviour is possible. Honeybee races vary widly in there natural resistance to varroatosis. The article gives a good overview and shows the efforts by some researchers in finding such races through selection or breeding. In case somebody needs this article I can mail a copy. Please send e-mail to - hthomas@solid.phys.ethz,ch Hans From hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch Fri Aug 12 10:57:38 EDT 1994 Article: 687 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!univ-lyon1.fr!swidir.switch.ch!scsing.switch.ch!elna.ethz.ch!otto-4.ethz.ch!user From: hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch (Hans-Ulrich THOMAS) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: BeeNet Date: 11 Aug 1994 12:55:33 GMT Organization: Solid State Physics, ETHZ, Switzerland Lines: 11 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: otto-4.ethz.ch In an older issue of "Bee World" I read about an other beekeeping BBS. It's called "BeeNet". Does anybody know how to access it through the Internet or any other means? In case you want to e-mail I can be reached via: - hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch Thanks for your help. Hans From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Fri Aug 12 10:57:39 EDT 1994 Article: 688 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What to do with empty Date: Thu, 11 Aug 94 09:59:28 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 12 Message-ID: <1700F8C83S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> References: <33A15839@beenet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu In article <33A15839@beenet.com> ANDY.NACHBAUR@beenet.com (andy nachbaur) writes: >>SYSAM@UACSC2.ALBANY.EDU queried >> ... a US president in the '70s who was a >>real believer in the positive benefits of bee pollen... > >Andy responded: > It was RR! Someone gave him some pollen bars...or something. Well if that's the case I would never make a claim about bee pollen having a positive effect on one's memory! From jwg2y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU Fri Aug 12 10:57:40 EDT 1994 Article: 689 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!poe.acc.Virginia.EDU!jwg2y From: jwg2y@poe.acc.Virginia.EDU (Warner Granade) Subject: best time to harvest Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: University of Virginia Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 16:12:43 GMT Lines: 21 I remember reading that the best time to harvest honey was in the middle of the day and that bees tended to get madder during a low-pressure time like before a thunder storm. Well, on Sunday, I went out (admittedly late in the day at 5pm) to get into my hive, and were they mad. I took out 4 frames and left after getting my rite of passage sting--my first in the three years I've had this hive. Last year, they hardly bothered me. The frames were totally covered with bees in this super with some uncapped frames. OK, I decided to try again yesterday in the middle of the day, temp 80degrees in the shade and hazy. They were even more angry like I had dissed the queen or something and hundreds of them flew at my veil. OK, maybe 50 total flew at my veil, but it seemed liked hundreds. I was smoking them like crazy and even smoking myself. I thought sure everyone would be out to lunch, but apparently not. So, is there a better time/condition than others to open a hive and harvest the honey? Should I take a sprayer of cool water or something? -- Warner Granade *****jwg2y@virginia.edu 804-924-7409 From fgt@cadre.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:42 EDT 1994 Article: 690 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!xanth.cs.odu.edu!news.larc.nasa.gov!news.msfc.nasa.gov!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!MathWorks.Com!news.duke.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!panther.Gsu.EDU!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!univ-lyon1.fr!swidir.switch.ch!newsfeed.ACO.net!Austria.EU.net!EU.net!uunet!cadre!usenet From: fgt@cadre.com (Fred G. Thurber) Subject: Re: best time to harvest Message-ID: Sender: usenet@cadre.com (News Account) Nntp-Posting-Host: cadre.cadre.com Reply-To: fgt@cadre.com Organization: CADRE TECHNOLOGIES INC. References: Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 18:26:01 GMT Lines: 5 Angry bees have also become a problem for me. Could it be that there is little nectar right now in my area because of dry conditions? Would feeding them a big dose of undiluted honey calm them down? From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Fri Aug 12 10:57:43 EDT 1994 Article: 691 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!darkstar.UCSC.EDU!news.hal.COM!olivea!uunet!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: best time to harvest Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. References: Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 01:25:09 GMT Lines: 10 In article , Fred G. Thurber wrote: > Angry bees have also become a problem for me. Often when harvesting honey the bees may be aggressive. Adam -- ============================================================================ Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu =============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= From lapointe@netcom.com Fri Aug 12 10:57:44 EDT 1994 Article: 692 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!netcom.com!lapointe From: lapointe@netcom.com (Douglas LaPointe) Subject: What is bee pollen? Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 04:18:28 GMT Lines: 10 First I will apologize for asking such a newbee question, but I could not find my answer in the FAQ. I saw bee pollen for sale in a health food store. Is this pollen that has been harvested by honey bees? It was touted as being extremely nutritious, "you can live off of this stuff". Is this true? TIA Douglas From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Wed Aug 17 00:30:41 EDT 1994 Article: 693 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: best time to harvest Date: Fri, 12 Aug 1994 07:21:04 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 28 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au In article fgt@cadre.com (Fred G. Thurber) writes: >From: fgt@cadre.com (Fred G. Thurber) >Subject: Re: best time to harvest >Date: Thu, 11 Aug 1994 18:26:01 GMT > Angry bees have also become a problem for me. Could it be that >there is little nectar right now in my area because of dry conditions? >Would feeding them a big dose of undiluted honey calm them down? The best thing to do is to get a reasonably gentle strain of bees, and to not rush into opening the hive...wiat a minute or so after the first puff of smoke so they have a chance to start gorging thenselves. Something else you might like to check is the type of smoker fuel you are using...I have noticed marked differences between eucalyptus leaves, pine needles and heshian sacking... Another thing I have started doing recently is to take a shaker of thin sugar syrup and shake this over the bees as soon as I open the hive, and right before I close it...I don't use honey, purely to avoid any risk of spreading disease. I don't think I have any disease (apart from some noseema) in any of my hives, but I don't want to suddenly find out that the hive I got my feeding honey from had AFB...as the way I would probably find this would be because all my hives would die... mostly, the bees are easier to handle if they are the right temperature, queenrite, and well fed. Adrian (I hope I'm helpful this time...) From laakkone@cc.Helsinki.FI Wed Aug 17 00:30:42 EDT 1994 Article: 694 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!biosci!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!news.funet.fi!news.csc.fi!news.helsinki.fi!not-for-mail From: laakkone@cc.Helsinki.FI (Tero Laakkonen) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: maximizing vicia villosa seed crop with bees? Date: 13 Aug 1994 14:02:55 +0300 Organization: University of Helsinki Lines: 10 Message-ID: <32i98v$l25@kruuna.Helsinki.FI> NNTP-Posting-Host: kruuna.helsinki.fi Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit hi, what kind of bee (and at what density) do i need for maximum seed crop of vicia villosa? what is a good (and up-to-date) reference? thanks! -- "i abhor you pretentious insight. i respect conscious guessing because it consists of two good qualities: courage and modesty." -imre lakatos From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Wed Aug 17 00:30:42 EDT 1994 Article: 695 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!munnari.oz.au!yarrina.connect.com.au!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Gosh, it's quiet in here.... Date: Sun, 14 Aug 1994 11:34:25 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 49 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au Keywords: echo!!! Helo??? ooo?? ooo?? ooo?? I thought it might echo a little.....there does seem to have been a little fall of in the number of postings here lately...I suppose all you people on the upside of the planet are busy out harvesting tanker loads of honey... I suppose it is really going to start getting quiet as everyone slows the pace down for their winter operations....I think we need more Aussies online so that we can have inane chat about obvious things all year 'round. I guess, just as I am getting ready for my fourth harvest (well my fourth personal harvest...not counting the five or six I did with the guy who's hive management techniques seemes to be responsible for over 300 hives including my fathers 30, being wiped out by AFB) everybody else will be busy talking about storage of combs and various other winter operations.... I suppose the small hiatus in the activity that comes in your Autumn and my spring will give time for me to get to work on the australian sections of the FAQ instead of being totally useless trying to help everybody...:-> While there is a bit less in the way of hive activity going on, why don't we all swap best/worst experiences about beekeeping... My worst experience was trying to work our first (at least we think it was first) AFB infected hive. Actually they belonged to the guy I mentioned above, but all our hives where in with his....he had all the equipment, we just had hives.. Anyway, this hive gave me more stings in one day than I have had before or since....in fact probably even if I was to add up all the stings I'd ever had, this would have been more.... This hive was the worst pack of niggly little bitches I have ever seen ( although those of you that have seen Afric. bees have probably seen worse) and as soon as we started smoking the hive, all four of us were attacked.... once we had the hive opened, one person stayed there as each of the rest of us went to was our srings to get rid of the venom smell....our bucket of water was about ten metres away from this particular hive, and as soon as we took our gloves of to get at the sting, another two or three would seemingly materialise next to it...then after washing the arm or whatever and moving to put the glove back on, we would get stung again. We closed that hive up, but for the next few hours, if we walked withing three or four meters of it, we got stung. The reason I believe this hive to be responsible for promoting the spread of AFB through the apiary is because even the guys that had been doing bees for years were to wary of this hive to do all the work it needed for swarm and disease control, in fact it was rarely opened, and it wasn't even robbed for a year or two. I was about 14 at the time, and blissfully unaware that such things as bee diseases existed....but the older guys should have known better... Well...thats all for now....I just thought I'd share that...oh...my best experience.....every year when the first bit of honey flows out of the bottom of the extractor....(what else?? :-> ) Adrian. From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Wed Aug 17 00:30:43 EDT 1994 Article: 696 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Bes/Wicwas Press Catalog Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 00:03:46 GMT Lines: 26 Forwarded from Bee-l: From: "" Subject: New catalog Expect delivery of our new catalog this week, with book, slide and video list of current bee/beekeeping/social insect titles. Will send a free copy to any Bee-L people who request it. Also, if you have a club or class, I will ship them in bulk. Indicate the number you require. Again, no charge. Mail address is: BES/Wicwas Press Larry Connor, Ph.D., Owner P. O. Box 817 Cheshire CT 06410 USA I'd assume he'd send anyone on USENET a free copy too, at least so he figures out we're here! Adam -- ============================================================================ Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu =============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= From griffin@dorsai.org Wed Aug 17 00:30:44 EDT 1994 Article: 697 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!gatech!udel!news.sprintlink.net!news.dorsai.org!griffin From: griffin@dorsai.org (Leslie_Bildner) Subject: Image of Beehive in art Message-ID: Organization: The Dorsai Embassy, New York, NY X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 07:41:25 GMT Lines: 14 Hi there: I stumbled across this newsgroup and couldn't resist posting a question that I have had for a while. I have long wondered about the dome shaped 'bee-hive' that is traditionally shown in emblems, cartoons, etc. It certainly doesn't look like any natural bee-hive that I've ever seen. Is this a stylized representation of some sort of artificial hive? Some versions that I've seen appear to be woven, like a wicker basket. Thanks, <<< Les <<< From roe@crosfield.co.uk Wed Aug 17 00:30:44 EDT 1994 Article: 698 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!roe From: roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe) Subject: Re: Image of Beehive in art Message-ID: <1994Aug15.123959.3168@crosfield.co.uk> Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK References: Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 12:39:59 GMT Lines: 37 In article griffin@dorsai.org (Leslie_Bildner) writes: >I have long wondered about the dome shaped 'bee-hive' that is >traditionally shown in emblems, cartoons, etc. It certainly doesn't look >like any natural bee-hive that I've ever seen. Is this a stylized >representation of some sort of artificial hive? Some versions that I've >seen appear to be woven, like a wicker basket. You're almost right, Les. They were made of straw and called skeps. To protect them from the rain they were often placed under some sort of cover. Sometimes recesses in walls called bee boles were used. I don't know exactly how widespread the use of skeps was. They were certainly used by the British and in other parts of the world where British influence prevailed. They slowly went out of use after the invention of removable frame hives in the middle of the 19th century. What the beekeeper did was to catch swarms in the spring and encourage them to take up residence in the skeps. At the end of the summer a few were put to one side (to provide the swarms for next year) and the rest of the hives were killed. Often this was done by placing them over a fire onto which sulpher had been placed. Once the bees were dead the honey comb was cut out and the skeps put to one side until the next spring. I believe methods rather like this are still used in some less developed parts of the world such as Africa (using log hives) but throughout most of the world removable fame hives have become almost universal. They have many advantages although I don't have time to discuss that here. Indeed, in some countries it is illegal to keep bees in anything but a removable frame hive. This is because it is otherwise impossible to inspect for disease. -- Malcolm Roe Phone : +44 442 230000 ext 5104 Crosfield Electronics Ltd Fax : +44 442 232301 Hemel Hempstead, Herts. HP2 7RH, UK E-mail : roe@crosfield.co.uk ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov Wed Aug 17 00:30:45 EDT 1994 Article: 699 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!sookit!rspear From: rspear@sookit (Richard Spear) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: weak hive? Date: 15 Aug 1994 15:13:19 GMT Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory - Pasadena CA Lines: 13 Message-ID: <32o0mf$s1o@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov> Reply-To: rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov NNTP-Posting-Host: sookit.jpl.nasa.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] hi - my two new hives have survived the summer (still raging here in california), but one of them seems quite weak. the two were started from five frame nucs ... i've added two honey supers to one of them and the other has yet to fill the brood chamber. as october/november approaches, i'm a bit concerned about this weaker hive ... can i take some honey frames (and bees) from the strong hive and add them to the weak one? anyone have any other ideas on how to strengthen the weak hive? regards, richard rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov From roe@crosfield.co.uk Wed Aug 17 00:30:46 EDT 1994 Article: 700 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!roe From: roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe) Subject: Re: weak hive? Message-ID: <1994Aug15.171748.5112@crosfield.co.uk> Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK References: <32o0mf$s1o@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov> Date: Mon, 15 Aug 1994 17:17:48 GMT Lines: 24 In article <32o0mf$s1o@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov> rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov writes: >i've added two honey supers to one of them and the other >has yet to fill the brood chamber. as october/november approaches, i'm a bit >concerned about this weaker hive You can boost the weaker hive but before you do that you should ask yourself, "Why are the two colonies so different?" It could be disease. Inspect your weak hive carefully for brood diseases and mites. If you find anything then treat as appropriate. Another possibility is that you have a poor queen. I'll return to that. Assuming the hive is healthy then transfer a frame or two of brood, depending on how much is available, from the stronger to the weaker hive. Its best to shake most of the adult bees off. Make sure you don't transfer the queen! It's young bees you want at this time of year to build up for the winter. If the hive still doesn't thrive then requeening is probably indicated. -- Malcolm Roe Phone : +44 442 230000 ext 5104 Crosfield Electronics Ltd Fax : +44 442 232301 Hemel Hempstead, Herts. HP2 7RH, UK E-mail : roe@crosfield.co.uk ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From altabios@bham.ac.uk Wed Aug 17 00:30:46 EDT 1994 Article: 701 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!pipex!warwick!bham!usenet From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: honey yields Date: 16 Aug 1994 12:22:28 GMT Organization: The University of Birmingham, UK Lines: 9 Message-ID: <32qb24$8dg@sun4.bham.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: bcs118.bham.ac.uk X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.80 Just out of interest, what sort of honey yield does everyone else get, say the average per hive? I have four working hives this year, the fifth one was a filled in June with a new swarm. I got a total of 180lb of honey off the four hives and am quite pleased with myself (and the bees who did all the work). How many tons/hive do you get in the States? Everything there being bigger and better than in the old UK! From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Wed Aug 17 00:30:47 EDT 1994 Article: 702 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!howitt-b04-01.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: honey yields Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 13:10:49 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 11 Message-ID: References: <32qb24$8dg@sun4.bham.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: howitt-b04-01.cc.monash.edu.au In article <32qb24$8dg@sun4.bham.ac.uk> altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) writes: >Just out of interest, what sort of honey yield does everyone else get, >say the average per hive? WEll, I can't speak for the u.s.a....but here in a.u.s., we can get up to 100kg per hive over two extractions. In a good year (or even just an ordinary year in the north) it can be much more than this. Average for me is about 15 - 10 kg per hive, but then I have only been extracting once each year.... Adrian. (yet another failed attempt at being helpful....) From mikee@eskimo.com Wed Aug 17 22:50:36 EDT 1994 Article: 703 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!mvb.saic.com!eskimo!mikee From: mikee@eskimo.com (Mike Koehn) Subject: Fennel Message-ID: Organization: Eskimo North (206) For-Ever Date: Wed, 17 Aug 1994 04:22:15 GMT Lines: 5 My bees are into the fennel and mint bloom. Will this ruin the taste of the honey? It's mostly blackberry so far. Thanks in advance, Mike Koehn From moroney@world.std.com Wed Aug 17 22:50:37 EDT 1994 Article: 704 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!MathWorks.Com!blanket.mitre.org!world!moroney From: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) Subject: Re: weak hive? Message-ID: <6eOKkaE96ZrT065yn@world.std.com> Sender: moroney@world.std.com (Michael Moroney) Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA References: <32o0mf$s1o@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov> Date: Wed, 17 Aug 1994 04:54:46 GMT Lines: 30 In article <32o0mf$s1o@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov>, Richard Spear wrote: > > hi - my two new hives have survived the summer (still raging here in > california), but one of them seems quite weak. the two were started from > five frame nucs ... i've added two honey supers to one of them and the other > has yet to fill the brood chamber. as october/november approaches, i'm a bit You may wish to consider that you may be better off with one strongish hive going into winter rather than two weaker ones. If the hive comes through winter strong they'll have a good jump on the spring and you will be rewarded. Otherwise you may have a weak hive and a very weak (or dead) hive and get less total honey. To do this combine the hives. Remove whichever queen is less desireable (prob. the one from the weaker hive), or don't bother if you want the bees to sort things out. Remove the outer and inner cover from one hive, place a sheet of newspaper over it (with a couple small holes in it) and place the other hive body on it. The bees will chew the paper and slowly get acquainted in the process. You can split the hive in the spring if they're doing well/trying to swarm, and get your two hives back. However you're from California so therefore don't have the winters we do here, so maybe they'll do OK anyway. Regardless be darn sure the weak hive is not diseased before you do anything that will contaminate the other. -Mike From crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net Wed Aug 17 22:50:38 EDT 1994 Article: 705 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!ukma!jobone!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!zip.eecs.umich.edu!panix!MathWorks.Com!news.duke.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!panther.Gsu.EDU!gatech!ncar!csn!jabba.cybernetics.net!not-for-mail From: crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Tips on finding queen? Date: 17 Aug 1994 12:42:50 -0400 Organization: Creative Cybernetics -online services (704-549-5553 voice) Lines: 8 Message-ID: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: jabba.cybernetics.net X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] This is my second year of beekeeping and I'm still having trouble locating the queen. I know what she looks like, and sometimes when I am working a hive (I have 4) I will see her, but I can't just go into a hive and find her whenever I want to. This fall I need to re-queen 2 hives (captured swarms) so I need some tips on how to find the elusive little lady. Thanks -Steve Crumley (Louisburg NC) From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Wed Aug 17 22:50:39 EDT 1994 Article: 706 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Tracheal Mite Samples Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. Date: Wed, 17 Aug 1994 20:23:46 GMT Lines: 38 Date: Tue, 16 Aug 1994 11:04:23 -0400 From: Diana Sammataro Subject: Tracheal Mite Samples To all bee/or bee mite researchers out there: I am currently screening tracheal mites from different countries and regions of the US to see if DNA patterns are different. I would be grateful if some other cooperators would send me samples of mites, or infested bees, from colonies that died of mites and from those still alive but infested. Alcohol samples of mites in the tubes or infested bees is fine, if the samples were previously frozen or collected within the past year. Bees left in alcohol too long are difficult to find mites. However, mite samples within the tubes can be over a year. Use 70% EtOH and label all samples In addition to A. woodi, A. externis and A. dorsalis would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your help. If there are any questions, please write, call or email. Diana Sammataro Dept Entomology Ohio State University 1735 Neil Ave Columbus OH 43210 1220 Phone: 614 292 9089, Fax: 614 292 2180 Email: dsammata@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu -- ============================================================================ Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu =============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= From ez021641@dale.ucdavis.edu Sun Aug 21 21:06:04 EDT 1994 Article: 707 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!dale.ucdavis.edu!ez021641 From: ez021641@dale.ucdavis.edu (Son Trinh) Subject: Yellow Jackets (sp?) Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Guru) Organization: University of California, Davis Date: Thu, 18 Aug 1994 04:51:35 GMT Lines: 15 I have a hive in my back yard, and everyday, i see there are two or three yellow jackets hoovering around the hive entrance. Sooner or later, one of them will land on a semi-dead bee near the entrance. Any body has any idea of what's going on? I tried to find out what the yellow jacket were doing, but to no avail. I also observe that the worker bee drags away the dead bee beyond my sight. For curiosity sake, is there any published paper on the distance that the worker actually disposed of the dead bee?? I would appreciate if you can reply directly to my email acct (ez021641@bullwinkle. ucdavis.edu). Thank you for ur help An inquiring mind, -ST From killoran@ll.mit.edu Sun Aug 21 21:06:05 EDT 1994 Article: 708 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!uhog.mit.edu!xn.ll.mit.edu!ll.mit.edu!killoran From: killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran) Subject: Bee disease: preventative vs treatment Message-ID: <9408181210.PN00869@LL.MIT.EDU> Sender: news@ll.mit.edu Organization: MIT Lincoln Lab -- Lexington, MA Date: Thu, 18 Aug 94 12:10:17 -0400 Lines: 44 Another newbie question from someone who just started this spring! I've read a bit about the various bee diseases and what to do about them, but I'm always left wondering how old the information is (especially in the case of mites) and whether the treatment is preventative or only used when the problem becomes obvious. Here's what I believe - please expand on this info or correct: There are four problems to worry about: 1 Foulbrood (both American and European) 2 Nosema 3 Varroa mites 4 Tracheal mites >From reading I think the following is to be done: 1 Feed terramycin in spring and fall to control foulbrood. It seems like this is always present to some degree, but is manageable. 2 Fumidil 'B' for control of Nosema. Again, spring and fall feedings for prevention. 3 Apistan strips when you KNOW you have Varroa mites. Not preventative, but reactive. 4 Extender pattys (vegetable shortening) or Menthol when you KNOW you have Tracheal mites. Not preventative either. So... I haven't done anything yet to my bees (the package they came in had an Apistan strip which I didn't move into the hive). This fall I plan to feed both Terramycin and Fumidil 'B'. As the hive seems very healthy, I will not treat for any mites. Am I doing the right thing? Any other diseases to worry about? Should I not treat for anything? Etc, etc... I've heard of hives with AFB being burned and certainly don't want my hive to have to end this way! Your personal ideas and schedule for disease control would be helpful. Thanks, Mike Killoran -- Mike Killoran Zen says: killoran@ll.mit.edu Cease to do evil, (617) 981-2667 Try to do good. From altabios@bham.ac.uk Sun Aug 21 21:06:07 EDT 1994 Article: 709 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!warwick!bham!usenet From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen? Date: 19 Aug 1994 12:18:03 GMT Organization: The University of Birmingham, UK Lines: 21 Message-ID: <3327tr$dbr@sun4.bham.ac.uk> References: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: bcs118.bham.ac.uk X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.80 In article <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net>, crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley) says: > >This is my second year of beekeeping and I'm still having trouble >locating the queen. I know what she looks like, and sometimes when >I am working a hive (I have 4) I will see her, but I can't just >go into a hive and find her whenever I want to. This fall I need >to re-queen 2 hives (captured swarms) so I need some tips on how >to find the elusive little lady. >Thanks > -Steve Crumley (Louisburg NC) I find it hard to see the queen as well, although I rarely specifically look for her The queen tends to shun the light so if you keep half of the brood chamber covered she will tend to be in that half. You can also mark the queen with paint, in the UK there is a colour coding system so you can tell her age. The paint helps to find the queen as well. I once spent an hour trying to find a marked queen without success, put all the frames back in place and while wondering what to do, saw the queen going over the top of the frames. The queen is rarely on the outer frames so you can take these out of the hive, it makes for fewer frames to look through From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Sun Aug 21 21:06:09 EDT 1994 Article: 710 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Apis Magazine 8/94 Message-ID: Keywords: Apis, beekeeping, bee, sanford, magazine Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. Date: Sat, 20 Aug 1994 03:58:01 GMT Lines: 247 Florida Extension Beekeeping Newsletter Apis--Apicultural Information and Issues (ISSN 0889-3764) Volume 12, Number 8, August 1994 PERMITTING HONEY PROCESSING Dr. Keith Delaplane at the University of Georgia recently discussed food regulations in his column "Strictly for the Hobbyist," American Bee Journal, July, 1994. His concern comes from hard experience. It seems that a food inspector visited a store that was buying Dr. Delaplane's honey. The merchant ceased doing business because Dr. Delaplane was not licensed by the state. At first disgruntled by yet another "imposition of government on agriculture and grass-roots living," Dr. Delaplane has changed his opinion. He now urges beekeepers to be proactive on this issue. Even the smallest beekeepers who sell honey to the public must comply with facility licensing laws in Georgia. According to Dr. Delaplane, "The licensing consists of a permit issued at no cost following a satisfactory inspection. Facilities are inspected quarterly thereafter." The above policy used to be about the same in Florida. However, as of January 1993, the rules have changed. According to Florida Statute 500.12, Section 1(a), "A food permit from the department is required of any person in the business of manufacturing, processing, packing, holding, preparing or selling food at retail . . . " Most of this statement was already in the old law, but Section 1(b) says "Applications for a food permit from the department shall be accompanied by a fee to be determined by department rule, not to exceed $350. Food permits shall be renewed annually on or before January 1." Thus, the time is over when food processors can obtain free permits. For small producers (less than $10,000 in sales), this translates to a fee of $60.00 per year, according to Dr. John Rychener of the Bureau of Food and Meat Inspection, Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services. Although the strict letter of the law requires all beekeepers selling honey to the public to obtain permits, there is some latitude. Florida employs only eighty-four food inspectors to oversee the food safety in over 25,000 processing plants and retail stores. The occasional small honey producer can be missed, according to Dr. Rychener. However, if and when the food inspection service becomes aware of any person/business without a permit, it must act. There is no penalty the first time one is discovered. Nevertheless, once contacted by a food inspector, one must obtain a license which is renewable annually with imposition of a late fee, if applicable. Section 5E-6.008 of the same law provides sanitary regulations governing manufacture, processing, packing, or other handling of honey. They are summarized in Hints for the Hive 106, soon to be distributed as ENY 106 in the IFAS CD-ROM FAIRS program: (1) HONEY HOUSE. A honey house is any stationary or portable building, including equipment, used for the purpose of extracting, processing, packing or other handling of honey. (2) FLOORS. Floors...shall be impervious and easily cleaned...smooth, in good repair, and kept clean...and if having a drain, be drained into a septic tank, or cesspool, or be connected to local sewage disposal facilities. (3) WALLS AND CEILINGS. Shall have smooth washable surfaces, be clean and in good repair. (4) LIGHTING AND VENTILATION. Shall be adequately ventilated...permit efficient operations and cleaning of equipment. (5) DOORS AND WINDOWS. Shall be screened, kept in good repair, and equipped with bee escapes. (6) WATER SUPPLY. Shall be properly located, constructed and operated in accordance with local sanitary codes...easily accessible and sanitary. (7) CONSTRUCTION, CARE, USE AND REPAIR OF HONEY HOUSE, CONTAINERS AND EQUIPMENT. During operation, the honey house shall be used exclusively for extraction, processing, packing or other handling of honey and for the storage of equipment related to the business of the honey house. Containers shall be free of internal rust, cleaned before reuse...all open equipment should be covered when not in use. (8) WATER DISPOSAL. There shall be an efficient waste disposal system. Toilet facilities, including wash basins, shall be conveniently available to honey house personnel. Toilet rooms shall not open directly into any room of the honey house. Toilets without plumbing shall be at least 75 feet from the plant...screened and have a self-closing door. (9) STORAGE OF EQUIPMENT. Equipment shall be stored free from rust and contamination. (10) HEATING EQUIPMENT. No boiler, oil stove or other heating equipment that gives off dust or odor may be used within the honey house, unless it has proper ventilation...and shall comply with fire regulations. (11) WORKER SANITATION. Workers shall wear clean and washable clothing... keep hands clean, and be provided with clean and sanitary towels. (12) CARE AND HANDLING OF COMBS OF HONEY. Combs should be loaded and handled so as to protect them from contamination. (13) USE OF HONEY PUMPS. Before being pumped, honey shall be strained through a screen of at least eight meshes to the inch or pumped from a baffled sump tank which provides a constant supply of honey for the pump. (14) CONTAINERS AND STORAGE. Honey shall not be packed in containers which have previously contained pesticide, creosote, gasoline, kerosine, fuel oil, paint, glue or other toxic substances. Storage tanks are to be protected from contamination and packed honey stored in a clean and sanitary manner. (15) PESTICIDE PROHIBITED. The application of spray type pesticides in the honey house is prohibited during extracting, processing and packing honey. Questions pertaining to Florida honey house sanitation should be directed to Dr. John Rychener or Mr. Kevin Lufkin, Bureau of Food and Meat Inspection, Food Safety Division, Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, 3125 Conner Blvd., Tallahassee, FL 32399-1650, Ph. 904/488-3951 or 1-800/HELPFLA, "select or say 6" for Food Safety. HONEY ADULTERATION ON THE RISE There is evidence that honey adulteration is approaching epidemic proportions in Florida and elsewhere. As in the past, the prime culprit is high fructose corn syrup (HFCS). The addition of HFCS to honey, even in large amounts, is difficult to detect without laboratory testing. And occasionally, vendors simply sell corn syrup as honey. Any of the above practices renders honey either adulterated and/or misbranded under the Florida Food Law. Many people are concerned about adulteration of honey, but it is extremely difficult to police. In a way, honey is its own enemy in this effort. The sweet is so healthful that, even when adulterated, it is not a health hazard. State and federal inspectors are stretched to their limits examining high risk foods. According to Mr. Lufkin of the Food Safety Division, mentioned in the previous article, there are not enough personnel resources left to enforce deceptive labelling practices. Inspectors are focusing instead on meat, milk and other products that are less forgiving than honey in their processing. "Detection of honey adulteration is the easy part," Mr. Lufkin says, "Tracking the violators is the constant challenge. All too frequently, the trail leads to phantom producers and distributors, hiding behind false labels and cash transactions." Only when enough people contact food inspectors, legislators and other policy makers with solid information can some effective action be taken. In the recent past, adulteration was reduced after an especially blatant case came to trial followed by conviction. However, the practice is raising its ugly head again. Honey adulteration adversely affects the apicultural industry by displacing its product in the marketplace. It also lowers the price as imports have been accused of doing. However, at least most imports are real honey and paying assessment for promotion to the National Honey Board. Adulterers reap double benefits: high prices for their product, cheaper to market than even the least expensive imported honey, coupled with no promotional assessment. As in the past, the beekeeping industry is the first line of defense against adulteration. A "self-policing" program, sponsored by the American Beekeeping Federation continues to be in effect. Suspicious honey is tested and, if found adulterated, the Federation notifies the proper officials and sends a report to the person who sent the sample for their follow-up. In spite of the recent adulterating activity, the Federation is receiving very few samples. Feeding bees sugar syrup and/or HFCS and extracting "honey" containing these products is also adulteration. Thus, beekeepers cannot be too careful. Even small amounts of adulterants are detected by tests currently in use. It is impossible to tell adulterated honey by either taste, smell or color. The only real evidence comes from defined techniques certified by the National Association of Chemists. Experience has shown, however, that adulterated product has one or all of the following characteristics: 1. No flavor, just sweet. 2. Very light or very dark 3. Molasses flavor 4. Consistently low price In addition to the above characteristics, adulterated honey has often been associated with "rustic" labels and "Mason" type jars. If you see suspicious product, send a sample to the Secretary-Treasurer, American Beekeeping Federation, P.O. Box 1038, Jesup, GA 31545, ph 912/427-8447, along with the following information: Date ____________________ DESCRIPTION OF HONEY SAMPLE: (include the label or copy the information on printed label including size of package, brand, name and address of packer or distributor) _________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________ Where purchased:___________________________________________ Date purchased:____________________________________________ Code # on Jar or label_______________________ If only the packer's name appears on label, name and address of distributor: ____________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________ Reason why honey is suspected of being adulterated_____________ ______________________________________________________________ Name and Address of Sender_________________________________ A fact sheet entitled ENY 103 Honey Adulteration is available on CD-ROM and from this office. It discusses the adulteration issue and provides the information given above on the American Beekeeping Federation's "self-policing" program. Sincerely, Malcolm T. Sanford Bldg 970, Box 110620 University of Florida Gainesville, FL 32611-0620 Phone (904) 392-1801, Ext. 143 FAX: 904-392-0190 BITNET Address: MTS@IFASGNV INTERNET Address: MTS@GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU -- ============================================================================ Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu =============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= From mark@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu Sun Aug 21 21:06:10 EDT 1994 Article: 711 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!mark From: mark@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (M.C. Rendina ) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What is bee pollen? Date: 20 Aug 1994 05:10:06 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 16 Message-ID: <33437e$1tr@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: ux1.cso.uiuc.edu lapointe@netcom.com (Douglas LaPointe) writes: >First I will apologize for asking such a newbee question, but I >could not find my answer in the FAQ. >I saw bee pollen for sale in a health food store. Is this pollen >that has been harvested by honey bees? It was touted as being >extremely nutritious, "you can live off of this stuff". Is this true? As I understand it, its pretty much straight protein. It's the bees main (only?) source. Depending on exactly where it came from it may also have a lot of trace elements that you could be deficient in. I wouldn't try to live off it, but I do alternate mornings with my vitamin. Mark From mark@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu Sun Aug 21 21:06:11 EDT 1994 Article: 712 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!ux1.cso.uiuc.edu!mark From: mark@ux1.cso.uiuc.edu (M.C. Rendina ) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen? Date: 20 Aug 1994 05:14:29 GMT Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana Lines: 17 Message-ID: <3343fl$2a1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> References: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: ux1.cso.uiuc.edu crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley) writes: >This is my second year of beekeeping and I'm still having trouble >locating the queen. I know what she looks like, and sometimes when >I am working a hive (I have 4) I will see her, but I can't just >go into a hive and find her whenever I want to. This fall I need One tip the state bee inspector gave me when I was a beekeeping young-un: The queen has longer legs than the rest of the bees and may stand out vertically. I.e., before you take the frame out, look down at it--if she's on the open side, she may pop out at you. Look down from the top. Got it? I thought he was crazy, but it did help me spot her a few times. I really want to get back into keeping. There's nothing like finding a queen the size of your pinky filling frame after frame with eggs. Mark From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Sun Aug 21 21:06:12 EDT 1994 Article: 713 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!munnari.oz.au!bunyip.cc.uq.oz.au!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!roberts-1f3-01.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bee disease: preventative vs treatment Date: Sun, 21 Aug 1994 14:00:03 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 72 Message-ID: References: <9408181210.PN00869@LL.MIT.EDU> NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-01.cc.monash.edu.au >There are four problems to worry about: >1 Foulbrood (both American and European) >2 Nosema >3 Varroa mites >4 Tracheal mites Starvation. Wax Moth. Pesticides. >1 Feed terramycin in spring and fall to control foulbrood. It seems > like this is always present to some degree, but is manageable. >From what I understand, terramyacin is only effective against EFB, and the only "cure" for AFB is to destroy all materials. In my opinion, it is better to destroy the materials anyway, because this stops other hives picking up the disease. It is better to destroy one hive, than to have to give extra attention to dozens of "sickies". Also, in Australia (why do I bother wity this..I'm the only aussie here) terramycin is (now...it wasn't five years ago) only available for diagnosed cases from a vet. (?!?!? a vet?!?!?!) >2 Fumidil 'B' for control of Nosema. Again, spring and fall feedings > for prevention. Making sure you have generaly strong hives is the best solution. From what I understand, and I could be wrong, there is no actual cure for nosema ( I would like to be wrong :-> ) but in strong and otherwise healthy hives, it dosen't usualy present a problem. I am not 100% positive here, but I have heard that nosema is present in 90% of all bee colonies (or more). >3 Apistan strips when you KNOW you have Varroa mites. Not preventative, > but reactive. No comment, because WE DON'T HAVE VARROA IN AUSTRALIA. (rub...rub....) >4 Extender pattys (vegetable shortening) or Menthol when you KNOW you > have Tracheal mites. Not preventative either. No comment...I have never had to deal with tracheal mites either. >So... I haven't done anything yet to my bees (the package they came in >had an Apistan strip which I didn't move into the hive). This fall I >plan to feed both Terramycin and Fumidil 'B'. As the hive seems very >healthy, I will not treat for any mites. I wonder....why was the apistan strip in the pakage...as you said, Apistan when you KNOW you have varroa mites....surely you would only be shipped healthy bees?? If you don't have AFB alredy (and you shouldn't) then mahaging your hives to avoid robbers, and to avoid leaving honey and wax (and products thereof) lying around where the bees can get to them, then you shouldn't pick it up... Now,.....I could be wrong in a few of my facts here, and if I am, someone please correct me. and Mike....talk to someone in your own area. Laws change from place to place, and different places also have diferent treatments. I think (and again I could be wrong) that REGISTERED Australian (or at least Victorian) beekeepers get recompensed for hives destroyed due to AFB. Adrian ( hey...I TRIED to be helpful......) From libby@igc.apc.org Sun Aug 21 21:06:14 EDT 1994 Article: 714 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!olivea!sgigate.sgi.com!enews.sgi.com!sgi!cdp!igc.org!igc.apc.org!libby From: Libby Goldstein Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Date: 21 Aug 94 14:19 PDT Subject: Re: Fennel Message-ID: <-2145067290@cdp> References: Sender: Notesfile to Usenet Gateway Lines: 9 Our community garden bees do quite a variety of herbs. The early honey has a lightly herbal (not identifieable as to which herb). The later stuff is much "fruitier" because of the local raspberries. It's all a matter of taste tho. The blackberry honey will probably be darker than the herb honey. You can separate them separately, taste each one and then decide if you want to combine them or bottle them up separately. Libby From p.kerr@auckland.ac.nz Mon Aug 22 13:26:56 EDT 1994 Article: 715 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!ames!waikato!auckland.ac.nz!NewsWatcher!user From: p.kerr@auckland.ac.nz (Peter Kerr) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Image of Beehive in art Date: Mon, 22 Aug 1994 17:06:29 +1200 Organization: School of Music Auckland University Lines: 23 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: 130.216.90.127 In article , griffin@dorsai.org (Leslie_Bildner) wrote: > I have long wondered about the dome shaped 'bee-hive' that is > traditionally shown in emblems, cartoons, etc. It certainly doesn't look > like any natural bee-hive that I've ever seen. Is this a stylized > representation of some sort of artificial hive? Some versions that I've > seen appear to be woven, like a wicker basket. That would be the old European *skep*, yes woven usually from cereal straw. The straw was forced through a ring, bound in a sort of loose rope, then sewn in a roughly curved spiral shape. It made a nice warm shelter for the small colonies of English and North European bees. No frames. Very difficult to get honey out without also getting lots of brood, or destroying the whole hive. Sometimes sticks would be poked thru near the top to simplify cutting out of combs. They are illegal now in many places that require moveable frames for disease control. -- Peter Kerr neo-Luddite School of Music bodger University of Auckland chandler From wood@kepler.pss.fit.edu Mon Aug 22 13:26:57 EDT 1994 Article: 716 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!darwin.sura.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!MathWorks.Com!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!usenet.cis.ufl.edu!usenet.ufl.edu!zeno.fit.edu!kepler.pss.fit.edu!wood From: wood@kepler.pss.fit.edu (Matt A. Wood) Subject: evicting bees? Message-ID: Sender: news@zeno.fit.edu (USENET NEWS SYSTEM) Nntp-Posting-Host: kepler.pss.fit.edu Organization: Florida Institute of Technology X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Date: Mon, 22 Aug 1994 14:58:20 GMT Lines: 13 I have some bees that have taken up residence in my house, and while I'd rather not kill them, I really don't want them living under my roof (one gets inside every couple of weeks). Does anyone know a local beekeeper that might like to come take them to a more loving home? Thanks for your help. -- Matt A. Wood Assistant Professor wood@kepler.pss.fit.edu Dept. of Physics and Space Sciences (407) 768-8000 (x7207) Florida Institute of Technology http://pss.fit.edu/wood.html Melbourne, FL 32901-6988 From griffith@aur.alcatel.com Tue Aug 23 23:45:05 EDT 1994 Article: 717 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!gumby!wupost!news.utdallas.edu!rdxsunhost.aud.alcatel.com!aur.alcatel.com!griffith From: griffith@aur.alcatel.com (Mike Griffith) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Beekeeping FAQ - help/advice for beginner Date: 22 Aug 1994 21:09:54 GMT Organization: Alcatel Network Systems, Raleigh, NC Lines: 27 Message-ID: <33b472$9v9@aurns1.aur.alcatel.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: aurxcc.aur.alcatel.com Keywords: beekeeping, bee Is there a FAQ on beekeeping yet? I've become medically retired due to Multiple Sclerosis which has adversely effected my vision and ended my career in computers. I can see well enough for routine hive maintenance, I believe, although some things like finding the queen will no doubt be quite a pain for me, I expect. (I've spent a few days working with my brother while visiting; he has 8 or 10 hives on his farm but he doesn't know what he's doing very much with his bees yet and he lives several hundred miles away). I got interested in bees/beekeeping as a result of investigating apitherapy (bee sting therapy) as a possible treatment for MS. I've pretty well decided that beekeeping would make a very interesting hobby (I'm about to go nuts since I've had to quit work a few months ago, as reading printed matter is often very difficult for me). I was wondering if there is a FAQ on beekeeping that I could access (I can read my enlarged screen/large text computer screen pretty well) which would help me get started? Best regards and thanks, Mike -- Mike Griffith, Raleigh, NC Email: griffith@aur.alcatel.com From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Tue Aug 23 23:45:06 EDT 1994 Article: 718 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. References: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> <3343fl$2a1@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 1994 23:32:43 GMT Lines: 13 >crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley) writes: > >I really want to get back into keeping. There's nothing like finding a queen >the size of your pinky filling frame after frame with eggs. > Ha! But do they make honey? :) Adam -- ============================================================================ Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu =============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= From Tue Aug 23 23:45:06 EDT 1994 Article: 719 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!pipex!warwick!nott-cs!lut.ac.uk!mac-cd06.lut.ac.uk!user From: (Steve Birchall) Subject: Angry colonies Sender: usenet@lut.ac.uk (Usenet-News) Message-ID: Date: Tue, 23 Aug 1994 11:10:16 GMT Nntp-Posting-Host: mac-cd06.lut.ac.uk Organization: Loughborough University, UK. Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Lines: 12 Several years ago I used to work on a UK honey farm (1500 colonies). Some of the yards that we had used to be of vicious temperament - this seemed to be due to the location and not the colonies, as these were cycled round from season to season. These yards were not fun to work and full kit was required, whereas a pair of shorts and a veil (optional - the veil that is!) were all that would be required in a yard a few miles away on the same day. One way around this problem that was employed by the older hands in the 30's thro' to the 50's was to grow hemp plants on these yards and to keep dried hemp leaves for burning in the smokers to pacify the bees. Apparently, this worked well but for obvious reasons the practice was discontinued when hemp became notorious in more recent years. From roe@crosfield.co.uk Tue Aug 23 23:45:07 EDT 1994 Article: 720 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!roe From: roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe) Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen? Message-ID: <1994Aug23.130930.7403@crosfield.co.uk> Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK References: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> Date: Tue, 23 Aug 1994 13:09:30 GMT Lines: 56 In article <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley) writes: >This is my second year of beekeeping and I'm still having trouble >locating the queen. I know what she looks like, and sometimes when >I am working a hive (I have 4) I will see her, but I can't just >go into a hive and find her whenever I want to. This fall I need >to re-queen 2 hives (captured swarms) so I need some tips on how >to find the elusive little lady. The best time to look for the queen is when there are the least number of other bees present. Ideally, this means early afternoon on a warm spring day. It should be warm both to encourage the maximum number of bees to leave the hive and to avoid chilling the brood. (You are likely to have the hive open for some time.) The number of adult bees is at a minimum in spring. Obviously now is not the best time of year but you should still try to choose a warm afternoon for the search. In spite of what people say about where to find the queen, in practice she can be almost anywhere. This is because of the disturbance you have created by opening the brood nest. If you have a double brood chamber you'll have to search both boxes. I take the first frame out and, after checking for the queen, put it to one side. This means I can keep a gap between the searched and unsearched frames as I work my way from one to the next. I lift each frame out and the first thing I do is to run my eyes around the edges to check she isn't nipping round to the back of the frame. I then scan the surface of the comb, turn the frame over, check the edges again and scan the other side. I check all frames but pay particular attention to frames with brood. The queen moves more slowly and methodically than the workers. Sometimes you can see the retinue around her but don't count on it due to the chaos you have provoked by opening the hive. What happens if you get to the last frame and haven't found the queen? You go through them a second time. If you still haven't found her then it's probably better to give up and try again another day. A variation on the above that I've sometimes found useful is to use another brood box (or even a cardboard box) to temporarily hold the frames after I have checked them. Sometimes the queen manages to get onto a 'checked' frame by crossing the gap. This method prevents her doing that. Finally, you can sieve the bees through a queen excluder. This is rather brutal but is useful as a last resort. There is also a method of requeening without finding the queen due to Nick Wallingford. If I can find a copy I'll post it here. I'm a great believer in marking queens. You've only got to go through the whole business of finding her once then. Subsequently she's so much easier to find. -- Malcolm Roe Phone : +44 442 230000 ext 5104 Crosfield Electronics Ltd Fax : +44 442 232301 Hemel Hempstead, Herts. HP2 7RH, UK E-mail : roe@crosfield.co.uk ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From dharry@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu Tue Aug 23 23:45:08 EDT 1994 Article: 721 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!koriel!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!ucdmc.ucdavis.edu!dharry From: dharry@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu (David J. Harry) Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@ucdavis.edu (News Guru) Organization: University of California, Davis X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev Final Beta] References: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> <1994Aug23.130930.7403@crosfield.co.uk> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 1994 00:20:23 GMT Lines: 13 >There is also a method of requeening without finding the queen due >to Nick Wallingford. If I can find a copy I'll post it here. I read this method and it sounds very intriguing. However, you end up with the hive contents distributed into three full-depth supers. It isn't exactly clear how Mr. Wallingford consolidates this back into two boxes. I emailed him about his method, but never got a response. Has anyone tried this? If so, how do you reduce the hive to two boxes? I'm considering trying this next spring on two hives that need requeening. From roe@crosfield.co.uk Thu Aug 25 22:50:22 EDT 1994 Article: 722 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!roe From: roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe) Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen? Message-ID: <1994Aug24.134357.12376@crosfield.co.uk> Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK References: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> <1994Aug23.130930.7403@crosfield.co.uk> Date: Wed, 24 Aug 1994 13:43:57 GMT Lines: 43 In article dharry@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu (David J. Harry) writes: > >>There is also a method of requeening without finding the queen due >>to Nick Wallingford. If I can find a copy I'll post it here. > >I read this method and it sounds very intriguing. However, you end up with >the hive contents distributed into three full-depth supers. It isn't exactly >clear how Mr. Wallingford consolidates this back into two boxes. I emailed >him about his method, but never got a response. Has anyone tried this? If >so, how do you reduce the hive to two boxes? I'm considering trying this next >spring on two hives that need requeening. Reducing the number of boxes is necessary whenever you unite colonies for whatever reason. If there are sufficient frames without brood you can simply take them away and put the rest of the frames back into one (or two) boxes. Unfortunately, life isn't usually that simple. There are normally too many frames with brood. In that case it's easier if you can find the queen - a good reason for marking her. Put the box(es) you want to retain plus the queen on the floor. Put on a queen excluder and then add the extra brood box(es) followed by any supers. Arrange for the box(es) above the queen excluder to include all the frames without brood, any old or defective frames you would like to take out of service and then make up the numbers with any other frames. Come back in about 3 weeks time and all the brood above the excluder should have emerged. You will probably find quite a lot of honey there. You can leave that untill it's capped and extract it or use the frames for making nuclei or re-enforcing weak hives. What if you can't find the queen? That's quite likely if you've been using Nick Wallingford's requeening method! Well, put all the boxes together but split them into two with a queen excluder. (You'll need another excluder under the honey supers as well.) Come back at least 4 days later and go through the boxes looking for eggs. When you find them you know which side of the excluder the queen is. You can now reorganise the hive to get the box(es) with the queen at the bottom fillowed by a queen excluder, more brood boxes and so on. Then just continue as in the first method, above. -- Malcolm Roe Phone : +44 442 230000 ext 5104 Crosfield Electronics Ltd Fax : +44 442 232301 Hemel Hempstead, Herts. HP2 7RH, UK E-mail : roe@crosfield.co.uk ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From rsrodger@wam.umd.edu Thu Aug 25 22:50:23 EDT 1994 Article: 723 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!cville-srv.wam.umd.edu!rsrodger From: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu (R S Rodgers) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What is bee pollen? Date: Sun, 21 Aug 1994 13:19:13 -0500 Organization: University of Maryland College Park Lines: 32 Message-ID: References: <33437e$1tr@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> Reply-To: rsrodger@wam.umd.edu NNTP-Posting-Host: rac2.wam.umd.edu Originator: rsrodger@rac2.wam.umd.edu lapointe@netcom.com (Douglas LaPointe) writes: >First I will apologize for asking such a newbee question, but I >could not find my answer in the FAQ. >I saw bee pollen for sale in a health food store. Is this pollen >that has been harvested by honey bees? It was touted as being >extremely nutritious, "you can live off of this stuff". Is this true? The current snake oil from health nuts. Right up there with "royal jelly," "shark cartilege" and other absurdities. In promoting it, the advertisements generally pander to the same kind of "natural or mysterious" == "good" notion carried about by so many people. The typical ad for bee pollen will claim that it's a "high protein supplement .. fed to the larvae and responsible for the incredible life force that makes up the hive." Almost always it will contain some reference to un-named (because there aren't any) "trace elements" which you may be terribly deficient in (this is the general plug, though, for almost all wacko supplements). Yeah, it's protein all right. You could do just as well with protein from any other source, given how miniscule a dose it contains. You have to give them credit for the sales pitches, though. People are always looking for _something_ magical. My particular favorites, though, continue to come from the cosmetics industry, not the supplements hawkers. They're improving, though -- the claims about Chromium and "amino acid pills" are particularly amusing. -- Previous .sig deleted because some people couldn't parse "from email _received_ re: a post on comp.sys.powerpc." From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Thu Aug 25 22:50:24 EDT 1994 Article: 724 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!sundog.tiac.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen? Date: Wed, 24 Aug 94 08:17:26 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 223 Message-ID: <1701C749CS86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> References: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> <1994Aug23.130930.7403@crosfield.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu In article <1994Aug23.130930.7403@crosfield.co.uk> roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe) writes: >... >There is also a method of requeening without finding the queen due >to Nick Wallingford. If I can find a copy I'll post it here. > I retrieved a copy of Nick's posting from BEE-L LOG9403 . /Aa Date: Sun, 13 Mar 1994 15:08:00 +1300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: NICKW@WAIKATO.AC.NZ Subject: Requeening without finding the queen Summary: Description of requeening a hive without having to look for the old queen. Variation of an article that orginally appeared in the Beginners Notes column of the NZ Beekeeper several years ago. REQUEENING WITHOUT LOOKING FOR THE QUEEN by Nick Wallingford One of the big stumbling blocks for many beginner beekeepers is that problem of how do you actually get the queen into the hive. The fundamentals -- the colony should be queenless, it should be well fed and it should have young bees emerging. How do you actually go about doing it? Most books tell you simply to find the old queen, kill her, and introduce your young queen in the mailing cage she came in. Fine, you think. Until you go out to look through your (strong) (aggressive) (agitated) colony for the queen. And knowing that you have your valuable, newly-arrived queen sitting in the house just waiting to be installed! So this message will be mostly devoted to giving you a method of introducing new queens to your hives without ever having to look for the old queen. And like any such system, it is not foolproof. It works for me and for many other beekeepers, but if it doesn't for you, first make sure you are following directions. Then consider special problems you might have, especially as they relate to the 'golden rules' of queenless, well-fed, with plenty of young bees. The system I will describe is not new, and it was not my idea. It's a combination of all sorts of ideas. Its the sort of management technique that develops when you have a fair idea of what you want to do, but you're not sure how. Then, rather than just making up your system, you sit back and think about bee behaviour and try to work effectively within the bounds of the ways bees will *usually* respond to certain stimuli. The object of the system is to create a nucleus colony on top of the old colony. I wanted a system that could be easily used by hobbyist or commercial beekeeper alike, without ever looking for the queen. It should be versatile, both in being able to deal with colonies of differing strengths and with end results. That is, the resulting nucleus, or top, can be used to re-queen with or to start a new colony. The method should use a minimum of extra equipment, and no exotic or complicated gadgets (much as I like them...) They are based around beekeeping systems that use two full depth brood chambers for most of the year. The system introduces a third box, which is of the same depth as the brood chamber boxes. After all is complete, you'll want to work this extra box 'out', especially if you (1) use different depth boxes for storing/extracting surplus and/or (2) you are particular about using white comb only (never used for brood rearing) as honey supers. The only 'extra' piece of equipment needed is a split board, also known as a division board. To those of you who may not know what that is, it is simply a hive mat (inner cover) that has had a notch cut out of the rim on one side so as to form an entrance for a colony set above it. The notch can be anywhere from 20 to 100 mm wide; I prefer to have mine about 50 mm, making it large enough for a fairly strong unit but still small enough that the bees can protect it while the colony is still small. I have modified the inner covers on all of my hives in this manner. Just to try something new this last autumn, I turned them over on my hives in an effort to give some sort of upper ventilation. I'm not really sure how much good it did. You will also need a queen excluder. As I have one of these for each hive as a matter of course, that is no problem. One last piece of equipment needed will be another box of drawn comb. Now, after all that prelude, let's see how the system works. For the sake of beginning, let us assume that it is springtime and your colony is housed in two boxes and you want to simply re-queen it. As you'll see later, you have other options, but let's start from this basic case. When you open your hive, you'll find most of the brood and bees in the upper box. Remove three frames of brood, both sealed and unsealed, from the centre of the brood nest. Take a glance over them first to see if you can spot the queen. Now that you're starting on a method that means you don't have to find her, its amazing how often you will! Then shake all of the bees off of them, back into the colony. You needn't shake off every last one of them, so long as you are sure that the queen is not one of the bees remaining. Now, place these three frames into the middle of the box of combs you have brought with you. If there are plenty of stores in the parent colony, take two good frames of honey, shake the bees from them, and place them in the new box with the three frames of brood. If there is not much honey in the hive, you will have to feed either the parent hive, the nucleus, or in the worst case, both. Now, you can start to re-build the hive. Replace all the frames you have taken from the parent colony with empty combs, doing your best not to split the brood nest if possible. On top of this second box, place the queen excluder. On top of the excluder, place the new box containing the brood and honey that has had the bees shaken from them. Put the lid on the hive and go away. Think about what you have just done. You have lifted brood and bees above the excluder. What is going to happen to the brood up there? The pheromones it gives off will attract nurse bees that are down in the main hive up to it. Combining that with the frames of honey, the third box that you have added has quite a 'pull' to bring bees up into it. But remember, there is a queen excluder between the boxes, so there is no way the old queen can come up there. After about 20 minutes, if you go back to the hive and lift the lid, you will find that enough bees have come up into the nucleus to take care of the brood, defend the colony and take care of your new queen. All you have to do now is replace the queen excluder with the division board and presto! You have your nucleus colony ready for introducing the young queen. It is queenless (because the queen couldn't come up through the excluder). It has plenty of young bees (because they have come up to take care of the brood you lifted). And it has plenty of food (because you provided them with two frames of honey). All the conditions have been met for ideal queen introduction. You can expect that some of the bees will drift back to the main colony, but the young bees taking care of the brood will most likely remain - the new unit shouldn't drop in bee strength too drastically. This system could be used on a larger number of hives. By the time the beekeeper has worked through the yard, shaking bees from brood and honey to lift into the new box, the first hive would have been left long enough for the bees to come up. Introduce your young queen into the top and wait a week. Don't disturb them in this time if at all possible; until the new queen is established and laying fully, the bees haven't really fully accepted her. Disturb them during this period and it is possible for them to turn on her. After a week, you will have a parent colony on the bottom, only slightly reduced in strength by the bees, brood and honey you took. And you will have a nucleus colony headed by a young queen above the split board, all set for your next decision. You can either use it to re-queen the parent colony, or you could place it on its own floor to use for increasing your colony numbers. If you choose the second option, it would be best if you actually moved it several miles away to avoid the loss of field strength through drifting. If you want to re-queen the parent colony, you could now go through it, looking for the old queen, preparing to unite the two colonies by replacing the split board with a sheet of newspaper for them to chew their way through. But that would defeat the whole point, wouldn't it? We're supposed to be doing this without ever looking for a queen, aren't we? If you can go through and find the old queen, aided by any tricks/knacks you might have to quickly locate queens, so much the better. You're certain of results then. But, believe it or not, you have the odds of success heavily in your favour if you simply newspaper the two units together without looking for the old queen at all. In almost 90% of the cases, if you unite two colonies with the young queen on the top of an old queen, the young queen will be left to head the resulting hive. Why this happens is open to argument. Some beekeepers will tell you that the bees always select the best of the two queens. I doubt that. My explanation goes along the lines of the young queen's bees are confined in the top box when you replace the split board with newspaper. As well, her field bees returning cannot use their normal entrance, the slot on the split board. They then drift down to the main colony entrance. As they are foragers returning with a load, they will be accepted without causing outrageous fighting at the hive entrance. I think the old queen is then probably killed by the 'scissor' effect of bees foreign to her coming at her from both directions - down as the bees confined above the newspaper chew through and move down in the hive, and up by the foragers from the top unit coming in through the bottom entrance and finding a 'strange' queen in 'their' hive. It has certainly worked for me, and if the thought of trying to find queens is an impossible one for you, the system might be worth considering. You might just want to experiment with it to see if the time savings will repay the small amount of uncertainty involved. It's not the answer to all of a beekeepers problems, but it just gives you an idea how by thinking a little bit about bee behaviour, you can sort out your management system to make your life a little easier while doing all you can in the interests of maximum production. ------------------------------------- Nick Wallingford (East coast, N Island, New Zealand) Internet nickw@waikato.ac.nz ------------------------------------- From hhickman@ess.harris.com Thu Aug 25 22:50:25 EDT 1994 Article: 725 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!darwin.sura.net!jabba.ess.harris.com!hhickman.ess.harris.com!user From: hhickman@ess.harris.com (H. Harris Hickman) Subject: Re: evicting bees? Message-ID: Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Sender: usenet@jabba.ess.harris.com (Usenet News Feed) Nntp-Posting-Host: hhickman.ess.harris.com Organization: Harris ESS, Palm Bay Florida References: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 1994 17:28:52 GMT Lines: 28 In article , wood@kepler.pss.fit.edu (Matt A. Wood) wrote: > I have some bees that have taken up residence in my house, and while > I'd rather not kill them, I really don't want them living under my > roof (one gets inside every couple of weeks). Does anyone know > a local beekeeper that might like to come take them to a more loving > home? > > Thanks for your help. > > -- > Matt A. Wood Assistant Professor > wood@kepler.pss.fit.edu Dept. of Physics and Space Sciences > (407) 768-8000 (x7207) Florida Institute of Technology > http://pss.fit.edu/wood.html Melbourne, FL 32901-6988 Matt In the Melbourne phone book there is a "Mac the Bee Man", listed under BEEKEEPING. Should do the trick. By the way, I live on Edgewood, and I'm thinking about bring some bees down from NC. Would like to keep them in a local orange grove. Any suggestions? Harris Hickman HHickman@harris.com From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Thu Aug 25 22:50:26 EDT 1994 Article: 726 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!jussieu.fr!univ-lyon1.fr!swidir.switch.ch!newsfeed.ACO.net!Austria.EU.net!EU.net!uunet!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Re: evicting bees? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. References: Date: Wed, 24 Aug 1994 20:43:28 GMT Lines: 17 In article , H. Harris Hickman wrote: >By the way, I live on Edgewood, and I'm >thinking about bring some bees down from NC. Would like to keep them in a >local orange grove. Any suggestions? Hummm, I"d make sure you get in touch with the FL dept. of Agriculture, Apiary Inspection before you move bees across state lines. It might be highly illegal to bring bees into FL now, I'm not up on the latest laws, but choosing to ignore them is pretty anti-social and illegal! :) Adam -- ============================================================================ Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu =============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= From fisher@lyra.hac.com Thu Aug 25 22:50:27 EDT 1994 Article: 727 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!nntp-server.caltech.edu!news.cerf.net!hacgate2.hac.com!lyra!root From: root@lyra.hac.com (Dave Fisher) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: What is bee pollen? Date: 25 Aug 1994 00:19:41 GMT Organization: Hughes Aircraft Company Lines: 21 Message-ID: <33go2t$ejl@hacgate2.hac.com> References: <33437e$1tr@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> Reply-To: fisher@lyra.hac.com NNTP-Posting-Host: lyra.hac.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] R S Rodgers (rsrodger@wam.umd.edu) wrote: : lapointe@netcom.com (Douglas LaPointe) writes: : >First I will apologize for asking such a newbee question, but I : >could not find my answer in the FAQ. : >I saw bee pollen for sale in a health food store. Is this pollen : >that has been harvested by honey bees? It was touted as being : >extremely nutritious, "you can live off of this stuff". Is this true? : The current snake oil from health nuts. Right up there with "royal : jelly," "shark cartilege" and other absurdities. In promoting it, the It may or may not have virtues, but I had an alarming experience with this substance once. I ate some "raw" bee pollen about 8 years ago, and instantly lost my voice. It returned after about 30 minutes. Pretty scary, although not too serious. Dave From jts@snowman.Central.Sun.COM Thu Aug 25 22:50:28 EDT 1994 Article: 728 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.concert.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!nic-nac.CSU.net!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!olivea!koriel!newsworthy.West.Sun.COM!cronkite.Central.Sun.COM!snowman!jts From: jts@snowman.Central.Sun.COM (Jim Stewart - Sun Minneapolis SE) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Where do I find a beekeeping suit? Date: 25 Aug 1994 20:08:11 GMT Organization: Sun Microsystems, Inc. Lines: 17 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <33itnb$reu@cronkite.Central.Sun.COM> Reply-To: jts@snowman.Central.Sun.COM NNTP-Posting-Host: snowman.central.sun.com Does anyone know where I can find a beekeeping suit - as in a suit that you wear that wasps and bumblebees can't sting through? My house sits on 2.5 acres and I've kept most of it natural with tall weeds. However, I'd like to start exposing more of the land and keep it cut to a lawn level. However, when I was using a weed wacker last spring, I stopped short of some weeds, since there was a large (8-10 inch) hole that I wanted to avoid that I assumed belonged to a skunk I had seen wondering around my land. The next few days I noticed some bumblebees hovering over the area and disappearing down into the general vicinity of these weeds. So, I'd like to avoid cutting these tall weeds and surprising a nesting group of bumblebees. I figure that a bee suit will protect me from getting stung. Thanks for your help. From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Sat Aug 27 11:13:03 EDT 1994 Article: 729 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Tips on finding queen? Date: Fri, 26 Aug 1994 04:05:40 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 29 Message-ID: References: <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au In article <32tema$bu5@jabba.cybernetics.net> crumley@jabba.cybernetics.net (Steve Crumley) writes: >This is my second year of beekeeping and I'm still having trouble >locating the queen. I know what she looks like, and sometimes when In the discussion I have seen going on along this thread, I have not seen anyone mention that it usualy pays to check all the internal walls of the hive as well... The first time I ever searched for a queen, I took out all the frames and shook them all of, and didn't find the queen anywhere. A more experienced beekeeper came and offered his help, and he did exactly the same thing, then found her crawling into a corner to hide. Once all the bees were on the wall surfaces rather than the frames, they clustered around the queen, making her that little bit more obvious. One tip here.... don't do it this way with a single....the bees may be inclined to leave if all their combs dissapear....:-> I am intending to try the "strainer" method when summer arrives down here... This requires attatching a Q.excluder to the bottom of an empty super, sitting this "strainer" on top of an empty (no frames) super, on top of the bottom box of the hive being "strained", with enough space to put in frames as they become emptied of bees. The bees are then shaken from the frames into the empty strainer, and the workers will move through the Q.excluder onto the honey and brood below. The queen, strangely enough, will not fit through the excluder.... :-> Note, the strainer should not be shaken to move the bees through, as this (apparently...I can't imagine why) upsets them. IS THERE A SECTION IN THE FAQ about this???? Adrian (again he tries to be helpful...again the results are debateable) From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Sat Aug 27 11:13:04 EDT 1994 Article: 730 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: I'm a little annoyed... Date: Fri, 26 Aug 1994 04:48:20 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 19 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-06.cc.monash.edu.au Well....more than a little...In the "halls of residence" (college dorms, call them what you will) where I live, there is a hive of bees (no really?? bees???) in the roof. I offered about three months ago to remove them, but, because I am a resident here, I am not allowed on the roof....so they declined my offer. Now there are great clouds of angry bees flying around because someone (I assume one of the maintenance men) has put a bag of somthing (presumably poison) across the entrance... Now I ask you, what is more dangerous to the general community...me getting up on a flat roof with a two foot high wall all around it to remove the bees, OR a whole bunch of very angry bees, no longer only at roof level, annoying and (not yet...but it is possible) stining passers by? I mean, I have been on heaps of sloped roofs without any sort of safety "net" so I know I can do it...yet, no doubt most of the people that are potential sting victims won't know if they are allergic or not....I wonder if a law suit could be pending somewhere... :-> (yeah...right) Adrian. (not feeling very helpful at the moment...) From roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au Sat Sep 17 22:49:18 EDT 1994 Article: 785 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!agate!msuinfo!harbinger.cc.monash.edu.au!roberts-1f3-07.cc.monash.edu.au!roadent From: roadent@halls1.cc.monash.edu.au (Adrian Graham DENT - Rodent) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,misc.test Subject: Re: test, please reply Date: Sat, 10 Sep 1994 05:16:49 GMT Organization: Halls of Residence, Monash University Lines: 15 Message-ID: References: <34l342$3kl@ionian.scranton.com> <34piln$dml@sun4.bham.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: roberts-1f3-07.cc.monash.edu.au Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:785 misc.test:56851 In article <34piln$dml@sun4.bham.ac.uk> altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) writes: >From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) >Subject: Re: test, please reply >Date: 9 Sep 1994 11:58:47 GMT >In article <34l342$3kl@ionian.scranton.com>, dave@lydian.scranton.com (Dave D. >Cawley) says: >> >> Howdy I'm sending a test mesage, please let me know if you see this. >> >yes test message??? Where???? Sorry...try again..... From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Sat Sep 17 22:49:19 EDT 1994 Article: 786 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: sci.agriculture.beekeeping FAQ Message-ID: Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Summary: Pointers to Apicultural Information on the Internet Keywords: Faq, bees, beekeeping, apis, honeybee, information Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. Date: Sat, 10 Sep 1994 13:43:15 GMT Lines: 288 sci.agriculture.beekeeping FAQ 9/10/94 This is FAQ #4 for sci.agriculture.beekeeping. To have this FAQ archived in news.answers, it needs to be submitted following a rigorous template. It is about halfway done. Later this month I'll submit this FAQ. (Adam) (Later...) **Note** Excellent information may be obtained on grease patty use and manufacture in the latest _Apis_ magazine, available on sci.agriculture.beekeeping, bee-l, and all the FTP sites. ****** POINTERS TO APICULTURAL INFORMATION ON THE INTERNET ****** USENET news * sci.agriculture.beekeeping Beekeeping, bee-culture and hive products. Listserv: * BEE-L BEE-L is for the discussion of research and information concerning the biology of bees. This includes honey bees and other bees (and maybe even wasps). We communicate about sociobiology, behavior, ecology, adaptation/evolution, genetics, taxonomy, physiology, pollination, and flower nectar and pollen production of bees. To subscribe to BEE-L, send e-mail to listserv@uacsc2.albany.edu with one line in the body of your message: SUBSCRIBE BEE-L To get help on how to run the listserver, send e-mail to listserv@uacsc2.albany.edu with one line in the body of your message: HELP To send a message to all current BEE-L subscribers, mail it to BEE-L@uacsc2.albany.edu. * Beekeeping Home Page (WWW) http://alfred1.u.washington.edu:8080/~jlks/bee.html * Entomology World Wide-Web Server at Colorado State University http:// www.colostate.edu/Depts/Entomology/ent.html * Entomology World Wide-Web Server at Iowa State University http:// www.public.iastate.edu/~entomology/ * sun1.oardc.ohio-state.edu Anonymous ftp * sun1.oardc.ohio-state.edu Gopher (comments on the above to postmaster@sun1.oardc.ohio-state.edu) * crl.com Anonymous ftp password /users/ro/robbee/BEE> * sunsite.unc.edu Anonymous ftp, gopher, telnet /pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture/beekeeping /pub/academic/agriculture/sustainable_agriculture/beekeeping/newsletters/apis * ftp.ucdavis.edu Anonymous ftp /pub/extension/4h-youth/bee-keeping Questions about accessing these sources may be answered locally or by reading news.answers, news.announce.newusers or by writing me, and I'll try to point you in the best direction.(adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu) Please don't be afraid to ask! * Beekeeping FAQ's (frequently asked questions) How to USE: Internet E-Mail a message addressed to: HINT.103@beenet.com on subject line put the name of FAQ : HONEY ADULTERATION thats all, you are welcome to add a message. Mail runs are 6am & 6pm. FAQ Last update 8-22-94 name * NEW or UPDATED _________ HINT.IND THIS INDEX * yellow.jacket How to get rid of them! Adrian Wenner 8/94 * argentin.ant Argentine Ant Control Adrian Wenner 8/94 * ambee.fed Info-Joining American Beekeeping Federation apimon95.txt Info- APIMONDIA 1995 Meeting mead.lst How to join the Mead list mail bee-l.faq How to Join the Bee-L list mail & find FAQ's import.relief Letter to Congress, William J. Clinton (1994) usda-bee.lab Address & Info on Sending Dead bee samples (1992) formic.txt Warning on use of Formic Acid by beekeepers (1992) propolis Jerry Bronenshenk on PROPOLIS (1993) 4-H.txt 4-H joins the Internet (1993) FSHEET11 INFORMATION US BEEKEEPING HINT.101 SOURCES OF BEEKEEPING INFORMATION HINT.102 HONEY AND ITS USES HINT.103 HONEY ADULTERATION HINT.104 FLORIDA BEE INSPECTION HINT.105 FLORIDA BEARS AND BEEKEEPING HINT.106 HONEY HOUSE SANITATION HINT.107 FLORIDA HONEY LABELING REGULATIONS HINT.108 PRODUCING SECTION (COMB) HONEY HINT.109 EXHIBITING HONEY HINT.110 SAMPLE POLLINATION AGREEMENT HINT.111 SOLAR BEESWAX RENDERING AND HINTS FOR EXHIBITING WAX BLOCKS HINT.112 EXTENSION APICULTURAL VISUAL AIDS HINT.113 USING HONEY IN LARGE-QUANTITY RECIPES HINT.115 GOOD NEIGHBOR GUIDELINES AND ORDINANCES HINT.116 CHALKBROOD RECOMMENDATIONS HINT.117 HONEY MARKETING SURVEY HINT.118 PRODUCING POLLEN HINT.119 FINANCIAL MANGEMENT FOR BEEKEEPERS HINT.120 UPWARD VENTILATION HINT.121 WAX MOTH CONTROL HINT.122 BEE STINGS AND REACTIONS HINT.123 EXTENSION APICULTURE IN FLORIDA HINT.124 FINANCIAL STATEMENTS AND RATIOS FOR BEEKEEPING OPERATIONS HINT.125 PRESERVING WOODENWARE IN BEEKEEPING OPERATIONS HINT.126 THE VALUE OF POLLINATION BY HONEY BEES HINT.127 THE VARROA BEE MITE HINT.128 INFANT BOTULISM AND HONEY HINT.129 HONEY JUDGING AND STANDARDS HINT.130 USING THE HONEY REFRACTOMETER HINT.131 OBSERVATION BEE HIVES All HINT's courtesy of Malcolm T. Sanford, Cooperative Extension Service University of Florida, Gainesville, Fl e:mail mts@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu *beenet.com is a Information Service for Beekeepers & Friends, operated by Andy Nachbaur from the Wild Bee's BBS, 209-826-8107, Los Banos, CA ****Thanks to Andy Nachbaur for putting this together.**** Andy would like your talents in expanding this service. Interested? Write him. E:mail Andy.Nachbaur@beeneet.com 1 -800-356-5941 P.O. Box 281525 415-340-3568 (FAX) San Franscisco, CA 94128-1525 USA * National Honey Board 421 21 st, suite 203, Longmont, CO 80501 USA 303-776-2337 * The American Apitherapy Society, Inc. P.O. Box 124, Woodsville, NH 03785 603-747-2507 (V,F) *International Bee Research Association 18 North Rd Cardiff CF1 3DY, UK F: (+44)222 665522 V: (+44)222 372409 (24 hrs) * Mead lovers list: mead-lovers-request@eklektix.com mead mailing list (subscribe, unsubscribe, etc) mead-lovers@eklektix.com (to send message to all current mead-lover subscribers) * The Mead Association P.O. Box 4666 Grand Junction, CO 81502 1-800-693-MEAD outside US 303-442-9111 * Mead book list: for a good list of books on mead mail: jkl2@Ra.MsState.edu ask for book list. ***** Printed Beekeeping Reference Sources ****** * For an extensive list of Australian beekeeping references e:mail adent@deakin.edu.au * For British beekeeping references and general British bee information, e:mail roe@crosfield.co.uk * Sheila A. Lafferty, librarian/archivist at uconn. handles the _ Hewitt Apicultural Collection_ containing both books and periodicals. Write her for a bibliography, e:mail: wbladmo3@uconnvm.uconn.edu Or obtain the bibliography via gopher: uconn.edu /libraries/waterbury (although this wasn't working when I tried it--adamf) ***** Specialists ***** * John Mcghee, VA Dept of Agriculture Apiary Inspector wishes questions from, and has a list of resources for *beginning beekeepers*. He will focus on practical management and the first years for beekeepers. e:mail mcghee@hopper.itc.virginia.edu * Dr. Rick Fell, Apiculture/Entomology professor and researcher at VA Tech is available for questions, comments and queries. e:mail rfell@vt.edu * Dr. Adrian Wenner, Biology professor and researcher at UCAL SB has available information on Yellow Jacket Control. e:mail wenner@lifesci.lscf.ucsb.edu * For historical bee lore questions (bees knees), and bee lore info write Warner Granade, Librarian at UVa. e:mail jwg2y@poe.acc.virginia.edu * Pollen Information, including pollen production and pollen usage is available from Rob Bidleman. e:mail robbee@crl.com or Anonymous FTP crl.com (see previous section on FTP sites) If anyone would like to "keep" a list of beekeeping references, making it available to other beekeepers on the internet, send us your e:mail address and ideas. This will save space on the FAQ. We need experts to answer questions and curate specialized apicultural information sites on the internet. * BOMBUS A mailing list dedicated to Bumblebees!! To subscribe, send a message to bombus-request@csi.uottawa.ca. To send a message to everyone on the list, mail it to bombus@csi.uottawa.ca. The Bombus list is maintained by Chris Plowright (plowright@csi.uottawa.ca) FAQ List The following list of frequently asked questions was compiled by Rick Hough (rshough@tasc.com) Thank you Rick for a fine job. Folks? Please answer some of these questions if you can find time. (you'll get your name in the FAQ!) Why did my beehive die? What is the difference between Honey Bees and other stinging insects? How do I recognize a honey bee? Why do Bees Sting? What Should I do if there are bees flying all around me? What is the best treatment for a bee sting? What about allergic reactions? Is it true that all bees/honeybees will more likely attack things that are tall/dark/furry-hairy/smelly (what kind of smells?) ? What is an African Bee, and how do I recognize it? Why are African Bees called "Killer Bees?" Are African Bees really dangerous? Do I have to worry about African Bees? (will African Bees be moving into my neighborhood?) How far north will the "killer Bees" get, and when? Bibliography of children's books on bees. Bibliography of beekeeping texts. Bibliography of biology (habitat, parasites, etc.) Protective gear. Finding Queens. Regulatory and research people and their addresses. AHB Progress and news. What is the National Honey Board? How do I find a local beekeeper? What is a swarm -are they dangerous Are their different races of honeybees? What are they and how do they differ? Supering. Honey Production. Queen Rearing. Social Order. Lore. Bee Deterrent? Swarm removal. Thanks, Rick rshough@tasc.com Adam adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu -- ============================================================================ Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu =============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= From sid@netcom.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:23 EDT 1994 Article: 787 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!csusac!csus.edu!netcom.com!sid From: sid@netcom.com (Kerwin S. Van Gelder) Subject: BEES1.GIF Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Date: Sat, 10 Sep 1994 20:18:55 GMT Lines: 3690 This is a picture of bees. This is also my first post to this group. Please let me know if this picture doesn't turn out. I am also doing a research paper on the "Killer Bees" and am looking for information (papers, sources, books, etc.) if anyone can help, please let me know. section 1 of uuencode 5.25 of file bees1.gif by R.E.M. begin 644 bees1.gif M1TE&.#=A30')`?<```````00'`@4#!@,&!`0'!`8&`P8*!`8(!@8$!@4*!@8 M&`P@$`@@'!@8("04'"@0*!`@&!`@(!@@$!@@&!@<,!@@(`PH&!@@*"`@&"@8 M,"`@("`@*!0H*"P@'"@@*!@L%"`H%"@<0#`<,!@L("`H("`D."`H*#`@*"@H M&"@H("@H*"@H,!PP*"P<:#@@.#0H'"`P,#`H,#0H*#PD,"PP'"@P*"@P,#`P M*#`P,"0X*#`P."@X,#@P,#PP*#@P.#`X*#`X,$`P,$`P.$@L.#`X0#@X,#PX M*#@X.$`X,%`L2"A$.$`X.#!`0$`X0#A`,%`T-#A`."Q(,#!,&$!`,$!`.%`T M4$!`0$A`,#A(.#A(0$A`0#10*$!(.%@\.%`\6#A,2%!`2$A(.#Q0,&`X4$A( M0$A(2&`\2%!(-%`\@%!(0#Q4.#A,<%!(2$A4)&!$/$A00$A02%A(2&A`2#Q8 M0%!00%!02$A8.%A00%!8+&!(6%A02$A<0$Q84%A8,&!02'!(2&A0.&A,4$Q< M2%!<0%A80%A82%A84'!,4&!82&!<-%A@0&!<0(Q`8%A@2&A82&!<4%AH,&!@ M2'!82'A42(1(:(A,6(Q0.&A@2(!42%AH3)@XK)1,4'!@2&AH3%QP3&!H<'!H M2'AH.'!H4'AH2*!42%1X7'AH4'1H7&!P<'!P3(!H3&1X3'AP3(AH3'1P7%B( M*&AX7)!L-(!P3%QTI(!P7'AX3(AP3)!L3(AP7(!X3)AL3*!L2(AX3(QP<)!X M/)1P7)!X3(ATA'B,,("`7)AX3'2(7)"`/*AT1)"`4*!T:&R43(ATK&B0<*!\ M1)"`7(R`<)"(0(R(7*AX:,!T2(R(<*B(1+"`:'2 M9TW@H!H43$B%"!$*0&AP0<6%M$T;Y*BP`E.E7B3,*$J=6? 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M"7-J``D2<($&H$DZ3@""3@C2JA[AX`8U6(D'?%:2&AA%3AQ1TP0P0`(3O*]< ML"M"#6Y0!!K\P`E.V-*E'-"`!B1@`AHX9$_D^!(5T($31W`"2"JC`@_(X$T> M2,$/7+$.>"P#/WF0P4.<0`4>&$$(=UC$$N0R1R0@82=QP4!%J$"A2XW`C3W[ M$`8T4(0T&.(,AB"#$(Y`!2?48`5`,@$7RJ0K'O3B$;2X!S[VT8YP3&,7NMC% M,7:!#%M0XQM^@((/@#"%5'1C'=T`Q1F(8(4>D8`+HXB#'?(0!O$@E.$J;+#" M$@J"`RIPJ083N(0=?L`%?#Y"#XY(12Z&T1A8$:$.C1`$&6JA"#C481!0@1I5X!"W"A$E7/"`,N=$@@MH``2MTP`-4C"! M"51@!7OA04-JT*%+=8!3-)A"N#:B@0FT"42?T@`*2I*"&R!B$8U+X@9RDB8U +H0X6I\@'/`("`#L" ` end sum -r/size 64838/227646 section (from "begin" to "end") sum -r/size 28515/165206 entire input file -- sid@netcom.com From Dave.Du.Toit@enviro.cds.alt.za Sat Sep 17 22:49:24 EDT 1994 Article: 788 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!quagga.ru.ac.za!ucthpx!itu1.sun.ac.za!cstatd.cstat.co.za!cds!enviro!dave.du.toit From: Dave.Du.Toit@enviro.cds.alt.za (Dave Du Toit) Date: 10 Sep 94 20:41:00 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: African Bees Message-ID: <129_9409110325@cds.alt.za> X-FTN-To: Andy.nachbaur@beenet.com Organization: - Enviro-Base BBS, Tzaneen (RSA), (0152) 307-5954 Lines: 83 Hi Andy AA> My first question would be have you ever worked bee's in the US? No, born here in Africa, enjoy it here with all its problems and whatever and have never been out of this country except to a few neighboring states. AA> working with queen nucs and wanted to show their visitor. The AA> African beekeepers dressed up, cover-alls, gloves, the works and AA> approached the bees with Wayne who was in normal dress, cut off AA> shorts, T- Shirt, thongs for shoes, no veil, AA> a frame to display the brood pattern and queen, he looked up and saw AA> his visitor retreating down the path in grate haste. Well lets put it this way if he approached a site here with a few strong colonies and tried to work on them like that I doubt he would be back to tell the tale and thus maybe the reaction of the beekeepers, AA> Wayne learned from the beekeeper that in South Africa a more AA> cautious attitude is taken when working bees, and they even found it AA> desirable to do most of the work at night. Is this the norm in South AA> Africa? Well everything depends on the circumstances I do most of my work during the day except in cases where my colonies are near people and I am forced to work at night, but naturally the forced removal of bees in situations of nuisance is all done at night. Once you get use to the bees it is also possible to work on them without gloves but no protection is not advisable, when moving my colonies at night I dont actually wear any protective clothing in this case only my gloves. So as I say it all depends on circumstance, who, what and how. AA> The big question is do you have Varroa mites in South Africa? Well we have no known problem of any bee diseases in the country thus the strict laws on importation of bee products to the country, although this wise law is being threatened but thats another story. Our biggest problem is wax moth and at the moment a take over by the cape bee, as we basically have to types of bees used for commercial purposes one found in the Western and Eastern Cape area (apis mellifera capensis) and then the Apis mellifera scutellata found in the rest of the country. Summary on damage by Cape bee, If colonies of cape bee comes across those of scutellata and mix by way of drifting or during transportation, one of the cape bees takes over the role of queen (the cape bee forms a part a rare few species whereby the worker is able to lay eggs which hatch into workers and no mating has taken place) which causes the colony to dwindle and die, the take over is more prominent in times of drought or stressful conditions. A law was pasted that all colonies that had come in contact with the cape bee or showing signs of the take over must be destroyed a boundary line was made where no bees may be transported over, to colonies are being lost daily. AA> in South America the so called African bees are not bothered by AA> varroa mites, Strong colonies of african bees are known to be able to overcome most situations its more the keeping them strong thats the problem. AA> their genes have been identified in many areas of the west, AA> we may all soon have them and see for ourselves. They are not such a bad bee to work with, I have a nursery site about three meters from my house and at stages I can have upto 200 colonies in it and in the 14 years of working with bees here have not once had an incident whereby they just go out and sting without some sort of provocation. They tend to get angry only once they have a stores of honey and due to there bad temperament they do help to keep the amount of beekeepers down to a point whereby you can still make a living out of doing it. AA> But the bug in the rug is a billion $ almond industry that AA> believes they need 800-900,000 live hives each spring to pollinate AA> their crop. Pollination forms 50% of my business and one of our problems is convincing farmers of the vital role bees play in there orchards, but some people take a long time to learn. Dave From JEFF@wvnvm.wvnet.edu Sat Sep 17 22:49:25 EDT 1994 Article: 789 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wvnvms!wvnvm!jeff Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Bees in my house Message-ID: <94253.175205JEFF@wvnvm.wvnet.edu> From: Jeff Brooks Date: Sat, 10 Sep 1994 17:52:05 EDT Lines: 19 Hi. A colony of honeybees just moved into my house last Tuesday (Sept 7). Yes, I know that bees don't normally swarm this time of year, and no, they haven't been there all summer, they really did just move in. Can anyone here explain this? And offer some inexpensive solutions to the problem? They've been getting into the house in _large_ numbers (100+ per day). My three year old got badly stung sitting on several. Fortunately, he's not allergic, but he did get a couple of very large welts (4+ inches in diameter). It's really a crying shame to exterminate the hive, but they charge $300 around here to capture them. It's a healthy colony, too, and here in WV we've lost thousands of hives to the mite this year. What can we do? Please respond to my email address; I don't follow your group. bonni involuntary beekeeper From kjs@spaceworks.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:26 EDT 1994 Article: 790 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!sunic!trane.uninett.no!eunet.no!nuug!EU.net!uunet!spaceworks.com!news From: kjs@spaceworks.com (Kimberly Strong) Subject: Re: BEES1.GIF Message-ID: Sender: kjs@spaceworks.com Date: Sun, 11 Sep 1994 15:22:35 GMT Organization: SpaceWorks, Inc. Lines: 6 Hi! How do I take your text and edit out the non-GIF info and then save it as a GIF file? I tried without success. Kimberly From sid@netcom.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:27 EDT 1994 Article: 791 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!sid From: sid@netcom.com (Kerwin S. Van Gelder) Subject: Bees1.Gif text Message-ID: Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest) X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Date: Sun, 11 Sep 1994 19:54:01 GMT Lines: 10 The way to edit the GIF file (if your software needs to) is delete everything before the BEGIN line and everything after the END line. There is software out there (specifically uuencode/uudecode 5.25) that does everything for you. It is available via FTP or I could post it here if you already have software that will decode it. I do not know of any FTP sites that carry BEE type pictures that's why I posted here. -- sid@netcom.com From spenas@herbie.unl.edu Sat Sep 17 22:49:28 EDT 1994 Article: 792 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsfeed.ksu.ksu.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!crcnis1.unl.edu!herbie.unl.edu!spenas From: spenas@herbie.unl.edu (STEFAN PENAS) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: NEWBIE HELP Date: 12 Sep 1994 14:06:47 GMT Organization: University of Nebraska--Lincoln Lines: 11 Message-ID: <351n9n$car@crcnis1.unl.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: herbie.unl.edu Summary: bought, used supers Keywords: supers X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Hello, I am new and on Saturday I purchased eleven used supers. My question is, what is the most effective way to clean them of any microbial contaminates which might harm the bee packages in the spring. Also is there any supply shops that anyone knows of near Lincoln NE. Thank-you in advance for any tips or suggestions. Stefan You can e-mail me at or respond here. From roe@crosfield.co.uk Sat Sep 17 22:49:28 EDT 1994 Article: 793 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!roe From: roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe) Subject: Re: NEWBIE HELP Message-ID: <1994Sep12.163239.8977@crosfield.co.uk> Keywords: supers Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK References: <351n9n$car@crcnis1.unl.edu> Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 16:32:39 GMT Lines: 24 In article <351n9n$car@crcnis1.unl.edu> spenas@herbie.unl.edu (STEFAN PENAS) writes: >Hello, I am new and on Saturday I purchased eleven used supers. >My question is, what is the most effective way to clean them of any >microbial contaminates which might harm the bee packages in the >spring. In the UK the usual method is to flame the boxes. First you should scrape most of the wax and propolis off. Then you need a blowlamp. You play the flame over the surface of the wood. When you're finished the surface should be scorched to a dark brown colour. I don't know of any relaible way to sterilize the frames, let alone the wax, so you need to replace them. In some parts of the world molten paraffin wax is used. I'll leave it to someone with experience of this method to give instructions. In theory radiation can be used which should sterilize the frames and wax too but I don't know of anyone using this method in practice. -- Malcolm Roe Phone : +44 442 230000 ext 5104 Crosfield Electronics Ltd Fax : +44 442 232301 Hemel Hempstead, Herts. HP2 7RH, UK E-mail : roe@crosfield.co.uk ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Sat Sep 17 22:49:29 EDT 1994 Article: 794 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Lazy! Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 19:51:22 GMT Lines: 7 How many lbs is 1 us gallon of honey? Adam (I don't feel like moving) -- ============================================================================ Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu =============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= From drews1@aol.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:30 EDT 1994 Article: 795 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!yeshua.marcam.com!charnel.ecst.csuchico.edu!nic-nac.CSU.net!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!dolphin.tdh.texas.gov!NewsWatcher!user From: drews1@aol.com (Drew Scherz) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Alkaline Hornets Date: 12 Sep 1994 20:14:12 GMT Organization: None Lines: 7 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 192.198.66.32 I had a beekeeper eradicate a bunch of what I thought were bees from the wall of my house today. He said they were alkaline hornets. I didn't get to talk to him very long (over the phone) and I was wondering just what in the heck alkaline hornets were. Any info would be appreciated. --Drew Scherz, Austin, Texas From kmdrach@delphi.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:34 EDT 1994 Article: 796 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: jedediah Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: extender patties Date: Mon, 12 Sep 94 20:36:11 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 8 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1a.delphi.com I am a new beekeeping hobbyist and so far have only one hive. Preparing for the end of season (I am in Maine), I am getting ready to mix up an extender patty. My problem is that all the recipes I have seen posted assume I have a lot of hives and tell me how to make at least 14 patties. Does anyone know how to make just one? You know, measured in teaspoons, cups, and things like that, rather than pounds. Any thoughts on this will be a big help. Thanks in advance. Kerry Drach From DEB141@psuvm.psu.edu Sat Sep 17 22:49:35 EDT 1994 Article: 797 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!psuvax1!psuvm!deb141 Organization: Penn State University Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 21:38:46 EDT From: The Master of Darkness Message-ID: <94255.213846DEB141@psuvm.psu.edu> Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: OUCH!!! Lines: 16 Sitting here with a slight pain throbbing in the back of my thigh, I am glad I have found a little place I can whine. I was peacefully coming home from the mall today. Driving through town I make a left turn and *POW* all of a sudden an intense pain starts to course through my leg. It was all I could do to continue the half mile home without grabbing my crotch and screaming in agony (which would have been very humorous to all the pedestrians I'm sure "Hey look! That dude's playing with himself!") I get home, park my truck and leap out. Looking back at my seat I see, as I had suspected (and hoped), a BEE laying there. Once the 170lbs that was on top of him moved, he had the gall to get up and fly! Needless to say, I was quite upset that the little bugger had survived me sitting on him, and even more upset that he was able to get away without me squashing him! It looked to me to be a honey bee, please tell me that those little bastards die after stinging someone...allow me some small amount of satisfaction that tonight, he lies dead somewhere. I can say I'm glad, but not very, the pain was caused by a bee and not the result of some mysterious physical ailment. From mcft10@calvacom.fr Sat Sep 17 22:49:35 EDT 1994 Article: 798 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!darwin.sura.net!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!oleane!calvacom!mcft10-ppp.calvacom.fr!mcft10 From: Maurice Clerc Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping,misc.test Subject: Re: test, please reply Date: 13 Sep 1994 09:02:51 GMT Organization: FRANCE TELECOM Lines: 20 Distribution: world Message-ID: <353prr$8gf@midgard.calvacom.fr> References: <34l342$3kl@ionian.scranton.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: mcft10-ppp.calvacom.fr X-Newsreader: Nuntius Version 1.2 X-XXMessage-ID: X-XXDate: Tue, 13 Sep 1994 11:04:30 GMT Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:798 misc.test:57120 Date: 7 Sep 1994 19:08:50 GMT In article <34l342$3kl@ionian.scranton.com> Dave D. Cawley, dave@lydian.scranton.com writes: > Howdy I'm sending a test mesage, please let me know if you see this. I saw it ! Friendly. Maurice Clerc ( Annecy, France ) \| = |||O ===== /| ------- ----------- |/ ----------- O||| \| ----------- |\ |||O ----###---- /| /__________/ From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Sat Sep 17 22:49:36 EDT 1994 Article: 799 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: NEWBIE HELP Date: Tue, 13 Sep 94 09:22:49 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 13 Message-ID: <1703083EBS86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> References: <351n9n$car@crcnis1.unl.edu> <1994Sep12.163239.8977@crosfield.co.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu Keywords: supers In article <1994Sep12.163239.8977@crosfield.co.uk> roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe) writes: >... >In theory radiation can be used which should sterilize the frames >and wax too but I don't know of anyone using this method in practice. > Radiation has been proven to be highly effective for the treatment of AFB, killing virtually all viable spores, documented in a recent issue of American Bee Journal. The hard part is finding a facility to nuke your equipment. Otherwise, as Malcolm stated, treat with fire. Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Sat Sep 17 22:49:37 EDT 1994 Article: 800 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!zombie.ncsc.mil!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Lazy! Date: Tue, 13 Sep 94 09:29:05 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 13 Message-ID: <170308568S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu In article adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) writes: > > How many lbs is 1 us gallon of honey? >Adam >(I don't feel like moving) >-- >============================================================================ > Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu >=============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= 3 lbs per quart, 12 lbs per gallon From roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:38 EDT 1994 Article: 801 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!rohvm1!roh033.mah48d Nntp-Posting-Host: 136.141.220.39 Date: Tue, 13 Sep 1994 12:26:15 -0400 From: roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com (John E. Taylor III) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Distribution: usa Subject: Re: OUCH!!! Message-ID: References: <94255.213846DEB141@psuvm.psu.edu> Organization: Rohm and Haas Company Lines: 24 In article <94255.213846DEB141@psuvm.psu.edu>, The Master of Darkness wrote: > Looking back at my seat I see, as I had suspected (and > hoped), a BEE laying there. Once the 170lbs that was on top of him moved, > he had the gall to get up and fly! Needless to say, I was quite upset that > the little bugger had survived me sitting on him, and even more upset that > he was able to get away without me squashing him! It looked to me to be a > honey bee, please tell me that those little bastards die after stinging > someone...allow me some small amount of satisfaction that tonight, he lies > dead somewhere. Yeah, well if you sat on _me_ and I had a stinger... :-) Yes, a honeybee will leave stinger, poison sac, and other vital parts of his anatomy imbedded in your skin, pumping venom into you long after the bee has departed (both flown away and croaked). Yellow jackets, on the other hand, make a nice, clean sting, which they can repeat at will, and fly away to sting another day. The yellow jackets look quite bee-like, even though they're actually a variety of hornet, and they give honeybees a bad name amongst the uninitiated. -- John Taylor (W3ZID) | "The opinions expressed are those of the roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com | writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company." From aherlihy@post.its.mcw.edu Sat Sep 17 22:49:39 EDT 1994 Article: 802 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!nntp.msstate.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!news.doit.wisc.edu!post.its.mcw.edu!not-for-mail From: aherlihy@post.its.mcw.edu (Amy Herlihy) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: meeting Date: 13 Sep 1994 08:40:24 -0500 Organization: Medical College of Wisconsin; Milwaukee Wisconsin Lines: 4 Message-ID: <354a48$pv@post.its.mcw.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: post.its.mcw.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Help! Is there anyone out there in the Milwaukee area? I was notified of a Milwaukee area bee-keepers meeting & have since lost the postcard that told me the time and place. I noted down the date (today) but nothing else. If you've got the info - I'd love to have it - please send me email. From pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu Sat Sep 17 22:49:39 EDT 1994 Article: 803 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!news.byu.edu!news.kei.com!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle.acns.nwu.edu!pccheng From: pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Paul C. Cheng) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: OUCH!!! Date: 13 Sep 1994 21:46:02 GMT Organization: Northwestern University Medical School Lines: 16 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <3556iq$52b@news.acns.nwu.edu> References: <94255.213846DEB141@psuvm.psu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: unseen3.acns.nwu.edu In article , >Yeah, well if you sat on _me_ and I had a stinger... :-) Yes, a honeybee >will leave stinger, poison sac, and other vital parts of his anatomy ^^^ That should be "her" 8) I don't know what's worse...the pain of a worker's sting or the smell of a drone's stink. Regards, Paul -- Paul C. Cheng (pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu), Second Year Medical Student Northwestern University Medical School | Ward Box 213, 303 E. Chicago Ave. Medical Scientist Training Program | Chicago, IL 60611 "Rubor, Tumor, Calor, Dolor" -Celsus (describing my rxn to beestings) From Herd@macgwi.ge.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:40 EDT 1994 Article: 804 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!psuvax1!news.pop.psu.edu!news.cac.psu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!uunet!news.crd.ge.com!herd.crd.ge.com!user From: Herd@macgwi.ge.com (Kenneth G. Herd) Subject: Sweet/sour odors from hive Message-ID: Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Sender: usenet@crdnns.crd.ge.com (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: herd.crd.ge.com Organization: GE-CRD Date: Tue, 13 Sep 1994 17:42:36 GMT Lines: 13 I have noticed a strong sweet/sour odor emanating from two of my hives. I have inspected the brood in both hives and it looks clean and healthy, with no evidence of AFB or EFB, and lots of young active bees. Both queens are less than 1 year old, and both hives were started from 5 frame nucs in May. I have taken off 30-40 lbs of honey off each hive, and the extracted honey was light and delicious. I have also noticed this sweet/sour odor, to a lessor degree, in some of the hives at my other apiary, located 25 miles away. Any ideas as to what's causing the odor? Downwind it is easily detected twenty feet from the hive. Could it be a particular type of nectar that's flowing in the Northeast now? If so, why only a few hives out of 14 having the odor? From jnmeade@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu Sat Sep 17 22:49:41 EDT 1994 Article: 805 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!nntp.msstate.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!newsrelay.iastate.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!blue.weeg.uiowa.edu!blue.weeg.uiowa.edu!not-for-mail From: jnmeade@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu (James Meade) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Magazine Needs Info Date: 13 Sep 1994 21:26:43 -0500 Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA Lines: 109 Distribution: world Message-ID: <355n13$52l6@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: blue.weeg.uiowa.edu Summary: magazine needs input for article Keywords: successful farming magazine bees article -- Jim - Farmer - Iowa City, IA, From jnmeade@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu Sat Sep 17 22:49:42 EDT 1994 Article: 806 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!news.uiowa.edu!blue.weeg.uiowa.edu!blue.weeg.uiowa.edu!not-for-mail From: jnmeade@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu (James Meade) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Magazine Needs Info Date: 13 Sep 1994 23:19:36 -0500 Organization: University of Iowa, Iowa City, IA, USA Lines: 24 Distribution: world Message-ID: <355tko$2emj@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu> References: <355n13$52l6@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: blue.weeg.uiowa.edu Keywords: successful farming magazine bees article John Walters, conservation editor, Successful Farming magazine, is looking for information and real-life examples of how recent government changes in beekeeping programs have affected the industry and associated industries. For example, what is the impact on crop pollination? Sorry, I tried and failed to upload a text file of his main questions, which were extensive. Failing my file upload, perhpas we can start a thread which will let John introduce his questions and get your responses. Successful Farming is a general farm magazine of 500,000 circulation. If you are willing to allow your name to be used in the article, please so indicate. If you prefer not, your anonomymity will be respected. -- Jim - Farmer - Iowa City, IA, From hmccabe@rch129.eld.ford.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:43 EDT 1994 Article: 807 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!darwin.sura.net!jhunix1.hcf.jhu.edu!jobone!fiesta.srl.ford.com!eccdb1.pms.ford.com!rch129.eld.ford.com!hmccabe From: hmccabe@rch129.eld.ford.com (H M McCabe (Harold)) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: OUCH!!! Date: 14 Sep 1994 15:19:24 GMT Organization: Ford Motor Company Lines: 17 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <35749s$ut@eccdb1.pms.ford.com> References: <94255.213846DEB141@psuvm.psu.edu> <3556iq$52b@news.acns.nwu.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: rch129.eld.ford.com In article <3556iq$52b@news.acns.nwu.edu>, pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Paul C. Cheng) writes: > I don't know what's worse...the pain of a worker's sting or the smell of a > drone's stink. What? You can smell drones? -- Harold McCabe ========================================================================== Voice: 313-248-8797 Subsystem Requirements Engineering FAX: 313-248-2286 Ford Automotive Components hmccabe@rch129.eld.ford.com Dearborn, MI USA I do not speak for Ford. Everything above this line is my opinion. From nrp@st-andrews.ac.uk Sat Sep 17 22:49:43 EDT 1994 Article: 808 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!uknet!strath-cs!st-and!nrp From: nrp@st-andrews.ac.uk (Norman R. Paterson) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Lazy! Date: 14 Sep 1994 13:13:13 GMT Organization: University Of St. Andrews Lines: 8 Message-ID: <356st9$6ll@calvin.st-and.ac.uk> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: honey.st-andrews.ac.uk In article , Adam Finkelstein wrote: ... I don't know, but I'd like to know how many litres is 3lb (imp) of honey. And I can't move either. -Norman From hmccabe@rch129.eld.ford.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:44 EDT 1994 Article: 809 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!darwin.sura.net!jhunix1.hcf.jhu.edu!jobone!fiesta.srl.ford.com!eccdb1.pms.ford.com!rch129.eld.ford.com!hmccabe From: hmccabe@rch129.eld.ford.com (H M McCabe (Harold)) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Queens Date: 14 Sep 1994 19:26:31 GMT Organization: Ford Motor Company Lines: 15 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <357ip7$5mt@eccdb1.pms.ford.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: rch129.eld.ford.com Keywords: queens, mating After ordering queens this spring and discovering the hives turned out to be more ill tempered than I expected -- I began to wonder how those who raise queens can guarantee that they haven't mated with drones with undesirable characteristics. I understand that artificial insemination can be/is used, but how can one guarantee that a queen has not taken an unauthorized flight and mated with an undesirable drone? -- Harold McCabe ========================================================================== Voice: 313-248-8797 Subsystem Requirements Engineering FAX: 313-248-2286 Ford Automotive Components hmccabe@rch129.eld.ford.com Dearborn, MI USA I do not speak for Ford. Everything above this line is my opinion. From altabios@bham.ac.uk Sat Sep 17 22:49:45 EDT 1994 Article: 810 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!cis.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!uknet!inmos-root!fulcrum!warwick!bham!usenet From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bees1.Gif text Date: 14 Sep 1994 16:25:59 GMT Organization: The University of Birmingham, UK Lines: 17 Message-ID: <35786n$i84@sun4.bham.ac.uk> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: bcs118.bham.ac.uk X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.80 In article , sid@netcom.com (Kerwin S. Van Gelder) says: > >The way to edit the GIF file (if your software needs to) is delete >everything before the BEGIN line and everything after the END line. There >is software out there (specifically uuencode/uudecode 5.25) that does >everything for you. It is available via FTP or I could post it here if you >already have software that will decode it. > >I do not know of any FTP sites that carry BEE type pictures that's why I >posted here. >-- > sid@netcom.com Is uudecode available for the PC. I have a gif translator programme but as yet I can't decode it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. From pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu Sat Sep 17 22:49:46 EDT 1994 Article: 811 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle.acns.nwu.edu!pccheng From: pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Paul C. Cheng) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: OUCH!!! Date: 14 Sep 1994 20:51:09 GMT Organization: Northwestern University Medical School Lines: 16 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <357nnt$stq@news.acns.nwu.edu> References: <94255.213846DEB141@psuvm.psu.edu> <3556iq$52b@news.acns.nwu.edu> <35749s$ut@eccdb1.pms.ford.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: unseen3.acns.nwu.edu In article <35749s$ut@eccdb1.pms.ford.com>, H M McCabe (Harold) wrote: >> I don't know what's worse...the pain of a worker's sting or the smell of a >> drone's stink. > >What? You can smell drones? It's all in the feces, man. It's all in the feces. Regards, Paul -- Paul C. Cheng (pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu), Second-Year Medical Student Northwestern University Medical School | Ward Box 213, 303 E. Chicago Ave. Medical Scientist Training Program | Chicago, IL 60611 "Rubor, Tumor, Calor, Dolor" -Celsus (describing my rxn to beestings) From rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov Sat Sep 17 22:49:47 EDT 1994 Article: 812 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!emory!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!MathWorks.Com!news.kei.com!news.byu.edu!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!sookit!rspear From: rspear@sookit (Richard Spear) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Bees1.Gif text Date: 14 Sep 1994 21:47:41 GMT Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory - Pasadena CA Lines: 18 Message-ID: <357r1t$k5s@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov> References: <35786n$i84@sun4.bham.ac.uk> Reply-To: rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov NNTP-Posting-Host: sookit.jpl.nasa.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] John E. Fox (altabios@bham.ac.uk) wrote: : Is uudecode available for the PC. I have a gif translator programme but as yet : I can't decode it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Yes John, there are a number of pc based uudecoders/encoders. They are available from a number of sources ... I am familiar with two that are found on Compuserve (and America On Line, but you are in the UK). I am sure that they or others are available via FTP. If you could tell me what you can access, I could locate a good one for you. One of the best (and free) is wncode.zip ... it is available from many sources. regards, richard rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov From 73172.100@CompuServe.COM Sat Sep 17 22:49:48 EDT 1994 Article: 813 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!darwin.sura.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!george.inhouse.compuserve.com!news.inhouse.compuserve.com!compuserve.com!news From: Dean Philpot <73172.100@CompuServe.COM> Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Killer Bee Help Date: 15 Sep 1994 02:10:03 GMT Organization: MARFALITE INDUSTRIES Lines: 12 Message-ID: <358adr$imv$2@mhade.inhouse.compuserve.com> Bees communicate and sting with formic acid. Natural Zeolite has a chemical attraction to formic acid. Use zeolite need the hive and they loose the sting . Killer Bees swarm to Formic Acid. Keep zeolite near or in your hive and no problems with swarming. For more general info on Zeolites send me e-mail. I have tested with fire ants , use zeolites on the bed and no sting. -- DON'T LET ANYBODY STEAL YOUR DREAMS FAX 713/360-5497 From mvdfv@mvuts.mv.att.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:48 EDT 1994 Article: 814 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!isclient.merit.edu!gmi!usenet.eel.ufl.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!usc!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!fnnews.fnal.gov!gw1.att.com!nntpa!not-for-mail From: mvdfv@mvuts.mv.att.com (-verville d.f.) Subject: Real Killer Bees Message-ID: Sender: news@nntpa.cb.att.com (Netnews Administration) Nntp-Posting-Host: mvuts.mv.att.com Organization: AT&T Distribution: na Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 17:56:21 GMT Lines: 48 BUZZ-ERK! BEES INVADE PENTAGON COMPUTER-& ALMOST START WORLD WAR III By Charles George/ Correspondent The United States has been pushed to the brink of nuclear war three times in the past month- thanks to beehives inside high- security Pentagon computers! The bees have caused malfunctions in the computers that have sent U.S. troops scurrying all over the globe, ordered missiles transported back and forth across Europe and nearly caused WWIII. "When we had the first major malfunction, engineers went inside the banks of computers and tried to clear out the hives," one Pentagon insider said. "But apparently there were more bees inside and quite frankly we're still not sure we've gotten them all." "We're afraid the bees entered through an air-conditioning vent and have been breeding inside the computer for several months. And it's possible more bees could be entering every day." The gigantic master computers at the Pentagon control the movements of American troops and military arms all over the world. During the most serious malfunction last week nuclear weapons came within a nerve frying 57 seconds of being launched. "The computers are designed to guard against human error and indecision in time of emergency." "They are preset to respond to very specific conditions around the world," revealed the insider, who asked to remain anonymous. "There are built in safe-guards against malfunctions but with computers there's always the possibility something can go wrong." "And with an outside influence like these bees on the computer hardware, anything can happen." Alert Pentagon officials were able to abort the nuclear-weapon launches each time the computers ordered them but in other cases some false orders were carried out. The most bizarre incident came when thosands of troops stationed in Europe went on red alert and prepared to storm into Hungary to avert an Iraqi invasion. "Of course, there was no such invasion but the computer reacted as if there were," the secret source said. "The computer made the orders and the first steps for defensive invasion were carried out." In other instances a ship was ordered to sail 1,500 miles from its correct position in the Pacific Ocean and hundreds of troops at one East Coast base were wrongly promoted to the rank of sergeant. "We have come to depend on these computers but they are far from being foolproof," he said. "Their mistakes have come very close to getting us in serious trouble." >From the Weekly World News From rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov Sat Sep 17 22:49:49 EDT 1994 Article: 815 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!rutgers!cis.ohio-state.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov!sookit!rspear From: rspear@sookit (Richard Spear) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Real Killer Bees Date: 15 Sep 1994 20:28:59 GMT Organization: Jet Propulsion Laboratory - Pasadena CA Lines: 10 Distribution: na Message-ID: <35aaqb$asg@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov> References: Reply-To: rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov NNTP-Posting-Host: sookit.jpl.nasa.gov Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] > "We're afraid the bees entered through an air-conditioning vent and > have been breeding inside the computer for several months ... " ^^^^^^^^ Not exactly the way that I think bees reproduce ... bad choice of words or ignorance on the part of the reporter, eh? regards, richard rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov From hlf@holmes.acc.Virginia.EDU Sat Sep 17 22:49:50 EDT 1994 Article: 816 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!holmes.acc.Virginia.EDU!hlf From: hlf@holmes.acc.Virginia.EDU (H L. Falls) Subject: Re: Real Killer Bees Message-ID: Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: University of Virginia References: <35aaqb$asg@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov> Distribution: na Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 12:58:06 GMT Lines: 21 In article <35aaqb$asg@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov>, Richard Spear wrote: >> "We're afraid the bees entered through an air-conditioning vent and >> have been breeding inside the computer for several months ... " > ^^^^^^^^ >Not exactly the way that I think bees reproduce ... bad choice of words or >ignorance on the part of the reporter, eh? > >regards, richard > >rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov > Not to mention that while some of the early vaccuum tube computers did have to be literally "de-bugged" from time to time, modern chips would probably short out completely and crash the system rather than cause the errors described (caveat -- I'm not a hardware expert, I could be wrong on this). Of course with a Weekly World News byline, any resemblance to actual events is not only coincidental, it's contrary to the paper's reporting policy! :-) BREAK From jfulker@uswnvg.com Sat Sep 17 22:49:51 EDT 1994 Article: 818 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!uswnvg!jfulker From: jfulker@uswnvg.com (John Fulkerson) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Real Killer Bees Message-ID: <34177@uswnvg.uswnvg.com> Date: 16 Sep 94 23:18:45 GMT References: <35aaqb$asg@netline-fddi.jpl.nasa.gov> Sender: news@uswnvg.uswnvg.com Distribution: na Lines: 15 X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1] Richard Spear (rspear@sookit) wrote: : > "We're afraid the bees entered through an air-conditioning vent and : > have been breeding inside the computer for several months ... " : ^^^^^^^^ : Not exactly the way that I think bees reproduce ... bad choice of words or : ignorance on the part of the reporter, eh? : regards, richard When you look at the source, _Weekly World News_, you know there may be entertainment value, but not much substance. Of course, you could describe "BS" as a substance, I guess. Not a spokesperson nor opinion-spouter for my employer. : rspear@sookit.jpl.nasa.gov From pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu Sat Sep 17 22:49:52 EDT 1994 Article: 819 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!udel!MathWorks.Com!news.duke.edu!convex!cs.utexas.edu!math.ohio-state.edu!news.acns.nwu.edu!merle.acns.nwu.edu!pccheng From: pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu (Paul C. Cheng) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: OUCH!!! Date: 18 Sep 1994 01:20:41 GMT Organization: Northwestern University Medical School Lines: 31 Distribution: usa Message-ID: <35g4l9$k8a@news.acns.nwu.edu> References: <94255.213846DEB141@psuvm.psu.edu> <3556iq$52b@news.acns.nwu.edu> <35dqei$l1k@rigel.infinet.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: unseen3.acns.nwu.edu In article <35dqei$l1k@rigel.infinet.com>, Joseph Cooper wrote: >: I don't know what's worse...the pain of a worker's sting or the smell of a >: drone's stink. > >Please take this as a legitimate request for information and not as one of >the four-alarm flames that so often seem to be aimed in your direction. I don't know when I have received such notoriety. My postings to this group have generally been in areas in which I am knowledgeable, and I have tried to make the information as accurate as possible. >Having never made any specific effort to smell drones, I had no idea what >they smell like. Could you further my education on this point? I apologize to you and the rest of the readers for making such an ambiguous statement. I am sure all people who have manipulated drones have smelled their feces. Personally, I've had the pleasure of smelling drone feces when collecting semen for my graduate research. For those of you who have not, I urge you to rush to your nearest beekeeper/beehive for a sample. As for the other questions, I am sure there are others who are much more qualified than I am to answer questions on pheromones. Regards, Paul -- Paul C. Cheng (pccheng@merle.acns.nwu.edu), Second-Year Medical Student Northwestern University Medical School | Ward Box 213, 303 E. Chicago Ave. Medical Scientist Training Program | Chicago, IL 60611 "Rubor, Tumor, Calor, Dolor" -Celsus (describing my rxn to beestings) From tyr@io.com Sat Sep 24 00:15:06 EDT 1994 Article: 820 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!illuminati.io.com!tyr From: tyr@io.com (tyr) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Alkaline Hornets Date: 19 Sep 1994 03:24:21 GMT Organization: Illuminati Online Lines: 22 Message-ID: <35j095$frk@illuminati.io.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: pentagon.io.com X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Drew Scherz (drews1@aol.com) wrote: : I had a beekeeper eradicate a bunch of what I thought were bees from the : wall of my house today. He said they were alkaline hornets. I didn't get : to talk to him very long (over the phone) and I was wondering just what in : the heck alkaline hornets were. Any info would be appreciated. : --Drew Scherz, : Austin, Texas There is a ground dwelling (usually) bee called an alkalai bee that lives in the western states, they have been used as commercial pollinators in agriculture there. Sometimes the distinction blurs between bees and hornets in localities. We've got a local fly here on the west coast that requires a second look to make sure it's not a honeybee, makes an interesting mimic, it lacks the pollen hairs on the legs and the stinger but the rest is the same. regards Dave From altabios@bham.ac.uk Sat Sep 24 00:15:07 EDT 1994 Article: 821 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!pipex!lyra.csx.cam.ac.uk!warwick!bham!usenet From: altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: double colony -- advice wanted Date: 19 Sep 1994 12:36:10 GMT Organization: The University of Birmingham, UK Lines: 7 Message-ID: <35k0jq$jbe@sun4.bham.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: bcs118.bham.ac.uk X-Newsreader: WinVN version 0.80 Some time ago someone described a system of beekeeping where there are two queens per hive. Is there any chance of re-posting the info. Thanks in advance John Fox From nunnun@cix.compulink.co.uk Sat Sep 24 00:15:07 EDT 1994 Article: 822 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!pipex!uknet!cix.compulink.co.uk!nunnun From: nunnun@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Norman Lunnun") Subject: Re Double Brood Message-ID: Organization: Compulink Information eXchange Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 21:58:32 GMT X-News-Software: Ameol Lines: 6 John, I was taling to friend this summer about 2 queens to a hive. 1 brood box on the bottom and 1 on top with supers in between and queen excluders the top one being under the brood chamber. I understand that this creates a quite a hive wether it is practical I will no next season after I give it a try. Norman. Uttoxeter From roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com Sat Sep 24 00:15:08 EDT 1994 Article: 823 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!darwin.sura.net!howland.reston.ans.net!newsserver.jvnc.net!rohvm1!roh033.mah48d Nntp-Posting-Host: 136.141.220.39 Date: Mon, 19 Sep 1994 12:56:07 -0400 From: roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com (John E. Taylor III) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Distribution: world Subject: Re: Killer Bee Help Message-ID: References: <358adr$imv$2@mhade.inhouse.compuserve.com> Organization: Rohm and Haas Company Lines: 24 In article <358adr$imv$2@mhade.inhouse.compuserve.com>, Dean Philpot <73172.100@CompuServe.COM> wrote: > Bees communicate and sting with formic acid. Natural Zeolite has > a chemical attraction to formic acid. Use zeolite need the hive > and they loose the sting . Killer Bees swarm to Formic Acid. Keep > zeolite near or in your hive and no problems with swarming. For > more general info on Zeolites send me e-mail. > > I have tested with fire ants , use zeolites on the bed and no > sting. Hmmm. Zeolites are adsorbents (and ion exchangers, but that's not quite relevant here). So to act, they'd have to contact all the places the formic acid could be in/on/around the hive. That is, the zeolites would not suck many vapors of formic acid out of the air--their affinity for formic acid isn't _that_ great. Apparently you'd have to dust the area extensively with ground zeolite material to get this effect. 'Course, anything that works on those damned fire ants has got to have some merit! I sure miss Myrex. :-) -- John Taylor (W3ZID) | "The opinions expressed are those of the roh033.mah48d@rohmhaas.com | writer and not of Rohm and Haas Company." From kmdrach@delphi.com Sat Sep 24 00:15:09 EDT 1994 Article: 824 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!news.delphi.com!usenet From: jedediah Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: extracting -- advice needed Date: Wed, 21 Sep 94 10:05:45 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) Lines: 14 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: bos1d.delphi.com I am a new hobbyist beekeeper with one hive. I started fairly late in the season, but the little ladies have nevertheless produced one super _full_ of dark wildflower honey. Here's my problem: I am not equipped for processing the honey, though I need to harvest it right away in order to get fall preventive medications into the hive. (I live in Maine; it's getting a lot cooler.) I have a friend with an extractor that I should be able to use. Can anyone give me _SIMPLE_ instructions regarding how to proceed with the extraction and bottling process? Remember, I have no experience with this, but I am a quick learner. What are the basic steps th at I cannot skip over? Next year I'll be better prepared. Thanks for any help anyone can give me... Kerry Drach Portland, Maine From moore901@crow.csrv.uidaho.edu Sat Sep 24 00:15:09 EDT 1994 Article: 825 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!owl.csrv.uidaho.edu!crow.csrv.uidaho.edu!moore901 From: moore901@crow.csrv.uidaho.edu (Moore Chad) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Re Double Brood Date: 21 Sep 1994 20:03:20 GMT Organization: University of Idaho, Moscow, Idaho Lines: 16 Distribution: world Message-ID: <35q3i8$or5@owl.csrv.uidaho.edu> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: crow.csrv.uidaho.edu X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2] Norman Lunnun (nunnun@cix.compulink.co.uk) wrote: > John, I was taling to friend this summer about 2 queens to a hive. > 1 brood box on the bottom and 1 on top with supers in between and queen > excluders the top one being under the brood chamber. > I understand that this creates a quite a hive wether it is practical I > will no next season after I give it a try. > Norman. Uttoxeter Norman, I have used this method, although a little differently by putting on the bottom a box of brood, then a box of honey, then another box of brood, with empty supers above that. While this is possible, and does create a powerhouse of a hive, it is impractical in the fact that there is only so much room. It makes more sense to just make another hive and have to healthy normal hives than to make one single hive with two queens. However, maybe you disagree, let me know. From voting@qualcomm.com Sat Sep 24 00:15:10 EDT 1994 Article: 826 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!hookup!swrinde!howland.reston.ans.net!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!bounce-back From: rdippold@qualcomm.com (Ron "Asbestos" Dippold) Newsgroups: news.announce.newgroups,news.groups,bionet.biology.tropical,bionet.general,rec.backcountry,rec.birds,rec.gardens,rec.photo,sci.agriculture,sci.agriculture.beekeeping,sci.bio,sci.bio.ecology,sci.bio.ethology,sci.bio.evolution Subject: CFV: sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera Followup-To: poster Date: 21 Sep 1994 18:19:44 -0400 Organization: Usenet Volunteer Votetakers Lines: 161 Sender: tale@uunet.uu.net Approved: tale@uunet.uu.net Expires: 15 Oct 1994 00:00:00 GMT Message-ID: References: Reply-To: voting@qualcomm.com (Ron Dippold Voting Alias) NNTP-Posting-Host: rodan.uu.net Xref: bigblue.oit.unc.edu news.announce.newgroups:4852 news.groups:93300 bionet.biology.tropical:189 bionet.general:10299 rec.backcountry:54940 rec.birds:12558 rec.gardens:44366 rec.photo:93682 sci.agriculture:1702 sci.agriculture.beekeeping:826 sci.bio:18050 sci.bio.ecology:5849 sci.bio.ethology:1054 sci.bio.evolution:1982 FIRST CALL FOR VOTES (of 2) unmoderated group sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera Newsgroups line: sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera Lepidoptera (Butterflies & Moths). Votes must be received by 23:59:59 UTC, 14 October 1994. After this CFV appears on news.announce.newgroups it will be sent to the mailing list , & This vote is being conducted by a neutral third party. For voting questions only contact rdippold@qualcomm.com. For questions about the proposed group contact Christopher Majka CHARTER Preamble -------- Sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera is an unmoderated newsgroup to provide a forum for the discussion of all aspects of lepidoptera (butterflies and moths) and topics pertaining to them both on an amateur and professional level. It is *not* intended as a forum for commercial transactions with respect to lepidoptera. Sphere of Interest ------------------ Sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera is dedicated to the observation, study, history, art, photography, conservation, rearing, and responsible collecting of butterflies and moths. It also welcomes discussions and inquires which pertain to the ecology, behavior, systematics, taxonomy, evolution and other spheres of the biology of lepidoptera. Examples of the above might include: * Observation: If you observe butterflies and moths, this group is a place where you can share information on interesting sightings, and find out about sites to visit and museum exhibits. * Study: Whether you're a high school science student making a presentation for your science class, an entomology graduate student specializing in Lepidoptera, or a farmer or gardener concerned about caterpillars eating your crops, sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera.can be used as a resource for learning. * History: The history of the study of lepidoptera includes many interesting personalities, debates, books, theories, etc. If you are interested in this sphere of the history of science, this forum can be a place where you can share your knowledge and make inquires on topics of interest. * Art: Many cultures have an appreciation of the beauty of butterflies and moths. If you have an interest in butterfly images in art, music, or literature this is a place where you can discuss your interests. * Photography: The photography of butterflies and moths is an area which is growing more popular. If you have ideas or inquiries about cameras, lenses, films and other photographic techniques as they pertain to lepidoptera, sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera can be a forum to discuss these. * Conservation: Many species of butterflies and moths have become threatened by habitat destruction. Conservation can include everything >from legislative efforts to the simple expedient of growing caterpillar food plants in your garden. Discussions of conservation policy are welcome. * Rearing: Butterfly-gardening and caterpillar-rearing are are becoming ever more popular. Sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera is a place to learn rearing techniques from others involved in the practice. * Responsible collecting: When made for educational or research purposes, insect collections can have an important role. Collecting sites and techniques can be discussed on this newsgroup. We encourage participating collectors to obey wildlife regulations, to be aware of which species in their areas are threatened or endangered, and to avoid collecting on private property or in restricted areas without prior permission. Efforts to encourage trespassing or to subvert conservation laws are emphatically NOT welcome on this newsgroup. All participants are expected to respect the environment and the law. Sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera is not intended as a forum for the buying and selling of insect specimens nor as a venue for commercial collectors to advertise their wares. Collectors who wish to do so should communicate through private EMail. * The Biology of Lepidoptera: while not intended as a substitute for professional entomological journals, sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera does encourage scientific discussions which deal with aspects of the ecology, behavior, systematics, taxonomy, genetics, evolution and other areas of lepidopteran biology. We hope that sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera can be a place where amateur and professional lepidopterists can rub electronic shoulders to their mutual benefit. * In order to facilitate access to this newsgroup to as broad an Internet constituency as possible, arrangements are underway to provide a gated mailing list for the group so that interested parties who do not have Usenet access can also participate. It is our hope that such a facility will also include archiving and indexing capabilities. * If participants are so inclined sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera may develop FAQ's which address topics in different spheres of the study of lepidoptera. Examples might include: * Design of butterfly gardens and plants which attract lepidoptera. * Techniques of collecting preparing, preserving and photographing lepidoptera. * Suppliers of equipment related to the study of butterflies and moths. * Lists of books and journals related to lepidoptera. * Electronic resources (WWW & Gopher servers, FTP archives, Listservers, etc.) related to the study of lepidoptera. * Environmental and other regulations pertaining to the collecting of lepidoptera. * Information on the rearing of lepidoptera. RATIONALE --------- At present, there are no other newsgroups where discussion pertaining to this topic can properly occur. The pre-existing entomology Listervers, & are general in their entomological interest and do not focus specifically on lepidoptera. This Usenet group would be a natural outgrowth of the recently established Lepidoptera Listserver . Over the past few months there has been a considerable degree of interest expressed by professional and amateur lepidopterists in creating a forum for the discussion of all topics which pertain to the study of lepidoptera (butterflies and moths). The consensus seems to be that a Usenet Group would be the preferred vehicle of expressing this interest. We, the proponents, issued a formal RFD in July and have received an overwhelmingly positive response to it. Therefore we are continuing the process and are calling a formal Call For Votes (CFV) with respect to the creation of sci.bio.entomology. lepidoptera. HOW TO VOTE Send MAIL to: voting@qualcomm.com Just Replying should work if you are not reading this on a mailing list. Your mail message should contain one of the following statements: I vote YES on sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera I vote NO on sci.bio.entomology.lepidoptera You may also ABSTAIN in place of YES/NO - this will not affect the outcome. Anything else may be rejected by the automatic vote counting program. The votetaker will respond to your received ballots with a personal acknowledge- ment by mail - if you do not receive one within several days, try again. It's your responsibility to make sure your vote is registered correctly. One vote counted per person, no more than one per account. Addresses and votes of all voters will be published in the final voting results list. From nunnun@cix.compulink.co.uk Sat Sep 24 00:15:11 EDT 1994 Article: 827 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!pipex!lyra.csx.cam.ac.uk!warwick!uknet!cix.compulink.co.uk!nunnun From: nunnun@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Norman Lunnun") Subject: Hive Size Message-ID: Organization: Compulink Information eXchange Date: Wed, 21 Sep 1994 22:41:57 GMT X-News-Software: Ameol Lines: 5 Does everyone use National Type Hives ie 11 frames and has anyone had anything to do with larger hives? I have heard of commercial ventures that use hives that have to be moved with Hiab type lorry mounted cranes. Norman Lunnun Doveridge,Derbyshire.UK. From SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu Sat Sep 24 00:15:11 EDT 1994 Article: 828 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!inxs.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!usenet.elf.com!rpi!rebecca!uacsc2.albany.edu!SYSAM From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: double colony -- advice wanted Date: Thu, 22 Sep 94 08:37:20 EDT Organization: University at Albany, Albany NY 12222 Lines: 115 Message-ID: <170397944S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> References: <35k0jq$jbe@sun4.bham.ac.uk> NNTP-Posting-Host: uacsc2.albany.edu In article <35k0jq$jbe@sun4.bham.ac.uk> altabios@bham.ac.uk (John E. Fox) writes: >Some time ago someone described a system of beekeeping where >there are two queens per hive. Is there any chance of re-posting the info. > >Thanks in advance > >John Fox I'm the guy, here's the info with much deleted from the discussion that took place back in June '94: >>... >>Now while all this was going on, I captured a mid sized swarm of bees >>that I put into a shallow super brood chamber with two medium >>(Illinois) supers on top. Both this captured swarm and the shook >>swarm are progressing, but not as quickly as the honeyflow. I am >>considering uniting the captured swarm with the shook swarm and >>operating it as a two queen hive. I would do this by placing a queen >>excluder and a sheet of newspaper between both shallow brood chambers >>and place the round section supers above both. >> >>Anyone care to comment on what I'm considering? Does this sound like an >>idea with merit or does this sound like total folly? Anyone have any >>experience running a two queen colony? If I go for this, I'll do it >>this Saturday, so send those comments quickly! To which Rick Hough, a beekeeper from Hamilton, MA, USA (NE of Boston) (rshough@tasc.com) replied: >Haven't done a 2-Q colony myself, but a keeper in my club does it all >the time, and has instructed the group on his method. I'll summarize >for you. He layers his equipment as follows: >---inner/outer covers----- >Honey supers (lots - they fill them fast with this arrangement!!) >----optional Q-excluder - to keep brood out of supers----- >Deep hive body with Q #1, brood, etc. >-----Required Q-excluder------ >Deep hive body - no Queen!! Just honey storage, and space for bees >-----Required Q-excluder------ >Deep hive body with Q #2, brood, etc. >------bottom board, etc. -------- > >Things to think about: 2 Q-excluders needed, with some separation, >as the queens can fight through a single excluder - same reason >that "double screens" are used instead of single. > >Also, providing an upper entrance for the bees is beneficial - >lots less work for the bees to get the nectar to the supers >that way. > >Combining with newspaper is appropriate - you want to >give the scents of the two hives a chance to combine >before they have full access to one another. > >This combination is often done starting with two full-strength >colonies, and crowding them into the resulting three deeps >plus supers. Result is LOTS of bees, and excellent honey >storage into the supers. Need to keep on top of the supers >(so to speak) as they get filled very rapidly - you may need >to pull some off, and add more as the season progresses. > >I'm not sure how he over-winters his colonies. > >The story he tells about why he keeps his bees this way >is that his wife said he could have a maximum of seven hives. >What she didn't say was how tall they could be!!! So, now >he has seven (tall) stacks of boxes, 14 Queens, lots of honey, and >a happy wife! Sounds good to me! >.... More discussion took place: >... > The source I used for the two queen management was "The Hive and >the Honeybee" (Dadant Publications, 1993 edition, don't know the >pages). The procedures call for splitting a strong hive, gradually >introducing the second queen and ease the splits back together... > > The reference states that this may or may not be productive >depending on location. The reference states that the procedure is >well suited to areas with short, intense honey flows (such as those >experienced in the Northeast US - where I'm located), but is not worth >the bother for beekeepers in the southern US. I don't recognize your >location from your address, but the heather reference brings England >or Scottland to mind. Also, the procedures call for removing >the queen excluders in the fall to let the queens 'decide' who the >surviving monarch will be for the winter months. > >The two queen method is intriguing, may yield impressive harvests, >but is not well suited for all areas. For the best information, >go right to the source ("The Hive and the Honeybee"). And yet more discussion: > The benefit of operating a hive with two queens is that you have >two queens producing workers within the same hive, and a very >populous hive will produce more honey. Experiments have shown that >doubling the number of bees in a hive can more than double the honey >production. A 'normal' hive may fill one or two supers, whereas a >two queen hive could fill four to six supers. > > The down side is that running a two queen set up requires a lot >more work: hive manipulations, setting up the hive in the first place, >having enough honey supers ready, and adding supers to the colony >requires a lot more unstacking and restacking. > For the full discussion, retrieve the BEE-L LOG9406 and BEE-L LOG9407 by sending mail to LISTSERV@uacsc2.albany.edu with two lines in the body of the mail that read: GET BEE-L LOG9406 GET BEE-L LOG9407 Better yet, go to a library and read up on two queen management techniques in "The Hive and the Honeybee". Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! From nupamvr@peele.bas.ncsu.edu Sat Sep 24 00:15:12 EDT 1994 Article: 829 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!rulisonm.bas.ncsu.edu!nupamvr From: nupamvr@peele.bas.ncsu.edu (Michael v.E. Rulison) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: extracting -- advice needed Date: Fri, 23 Sep 1994 11:08:17 Organization: Univ. Planning & Analysis, N.C. State University Lines: 54 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: rulisonm.bas.ncsu.edu Keywords: honey, extracting X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] In article jedediah writes: >From: jedediah >Subject: extracting -- advice needed >Date: Wed, 21 Sep 94 10:05:45 -0500 > Can >anyone give me _SIMPLE_ instructions regarding how to proceed with the >extraction and bottling process? Remember, I have no experience with this, but >I am a quick learner. What are the basic steps th > at I cannot skip over? Next >year I'll be better prepared. Thanks for any help anyone can give me... > >Kerry Drach >Portland, Maine IMHO: 1. get extractor, capping knife, receiving bucket clean and in place. (I cover floor with newpaper as an aid to minimizing cleanup.) 2. remove super from hive. 3. have second empty super available, use bee brush to remove as many bees as possible from each frame and put de-bee'd frames in empty super, covering with cloth while working on next frame. Do this close to hive so that brushed bees can get back to hive. 4. move super to extracting venue. Left over bees will mostly fly to windows (light) and have not been much of a problem for me. uncap both size of one frame, place in extractor, repeat until extractor full (2, 3, 4 frames depending on model). Balance frames as much as possible: light opposite light, heavy opposite heavy). 5. spin extractor, slower at start, faster after 2-4 minutes as frame become lighter. Also slower speeds on first side, faster when frames are reversed to do second side. 6. repeat until all frames extracted, or honey needs to be removed from extractor to allow continuation. 7. remove honey from extractor: Nylon mesh is one method of getting pretty clean honey on one pass. I use new panty hose held on bucket with clothespins and with legs brought snugly to the outside and clipped so that they cannot be pulled back in by weight of honey. 8. cover honey buckey reasonably tightly ASAP to minimize water pickup by honey. weigh bucket before and after filling to get net product. 9. decant honey into final containers. 10. clean all equipment with warm water. use soap only if necessary and then rinse thoroughly. I do not submerse capping knife, but tend to wipe clean while warm with paper or clean rag. ---- All this from an amateur. Other will have difference opinions and knowledge. From roe@crosfield.co.uk Sat Sep 24 11:27:55 EDT 1994 Article: 830 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!pipex!crosfield.co.uk!roe From: roe@crosfield.co.uk (Malcolm Roe) Subject: Re: Hive Size Message-ID: <1994Sep23.124208.5700@crosfield.co.uk> Organization: Crosfield, Hemel Hempstead, UK References: Date: Fri, 23 Sep 1994 12:42:08 GMT Lines: 31 In article nunnun@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Norman Lunnun") writes: >Does everyone use National Type Hives ie 11 frames and has anyone had >anything to do with larger hives? The National hive is more or less unheard of outside the UK. (I think it's used in Ireland as well.) Worldwide, the most common is the Langstroth. There are other designs such as the Dadent as well. I don't think any other country has such a lack of standardisation as the UK where, as well as the three designs above, Commercial, Smith and WBC designs are in use! I don't have time to go into the advantages and disadvantages of each of the designs in this reply. It's not clear why you are interested in larger hives but if you are using Nationals now and want a larger brood space without going to double brood boxes you might like to consider the Commercial hive. It has more or less the same dimensions and, like the National, it uses bottom bee space. This means that you can keep your old roofs, floors, queen excludes and supers. > I have heard of commercial ventures >that use hives that have to be moved with Hiab type lorry mounted cranes. Even a National with three full supers is too heavy for me to lift and I usually end up with five or six supers on each hive at the end of the season. Migratory beekeepers often put four hives on a pallet. That's why they need some form of mechanical handling. -- Malcolm Roe Phone : +44 1442 345104 Crosfield Electronics Ltd Fax : +44 1442 232301 Hemel Hempstead, Herts. HP2 7RH, UK E-mail : roe@crosfield.co.uk ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU Sat Sep 24 11:27:56 EDT 1994 Article: 831 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!murdoch!Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU!adamf From: adamf@Hopper.itc.Virginia.EDU (Adam Finkelstein) Subject: Observation Hive (fwd) Message-ID: Followup-To: bkaugust@facstaff.wisc.edu Sender: usenet@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU Organization: Public Access Internet at UVa. Date: Fri, 23 Sep 1994 13:32:40 GMT Lines: 14 From: Ben August Subject: observation hive I just got an "Observation Hive" that holds two 8" frames, and I had a few questions regarding its use. Does one simply "borrow" a couple of frames >from an existing hive and place them in the observation hive for a short time? Should the queen be included on these frames, and if so, how long can I leave the hive that the frames were borrowed from go without the queen? bkaugust@facstaff.wisc.edu -- ============================================================================ Adam Finkelstein adamf@hopper.itc.virginia.edu adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu =============================================== |Bees To Please| ======= From prism@nbnet.nb.ca Sat Oct 1 13:01:12 EDT 1994 Article: 832 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!spool.mu.edu!torn!news.unb.ca!nbt.nbnet.nb.ca!dynam26.nbnet.nb.ca!user From: prism@nbnet.nb.ca (Highlander) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: extracting -- advice needed Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Date: 25 Sep 1994 16:59:59 GMT Organization: NB*Net Lines: 67 Distribution: world Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: dynam26.nbnet.nb.ca In article , nupamvr@peele.bas.ncsu.edu (Michael v.E. Rulison) wrote: > > In article jedediah writes: > >From: jedediah > >Subject: extracting -- advice needed > >Date: Wed, 21 Sep 94 10:05:45 -0500 > > > Can > >anyone give me _SIMPLE_ instructions regarding how to proceed with the > >extraction and bottling process? Remember, I have no experience with this, but > >I am a quick learner. What are the basic steps th > > at I cannot skip over? Next > >year I'll be better prepared. Thanks for any help anyone can give me... > > > >Kerry Drach > >Portland, Maine > > IMHO: > 1. get extractor, capping knife, receiving bucket clean and in place. (I cover > floor with newpaper as an aid to minimizing cleanup.) > > 2. remove super from hive. > 3. have second empty super available, use bee brush to remove as many bees as > possible from each frame and put de-bee'd frames in empty super, covering with > cloth while working on next frame. Do this close to hive so that brushed bees > can get back to hive. > > 4. move super to extracting venue. Left over bees will mostly fly to windows > (light) and have not been much of a problem for me. uncap both size of one > frame, place in extractor, repeat until extractor full (2, 3, 4 frames > depending on model). Balance frames as much as possible: light opposite light, > heavy opposite heavy). > > 5. spin extractor, slower at start, faster after 2-4 minutes as frame become > lighter. Also slower speeds on first side, faster when frames are reversed to > do second side. > > 6. repeat until all frames extracted, or honey needs to be removed from > extractor to allow continuation. > > 7. remove honey from extractor: Nylon mesh is one method of getting pretty > clean honey on one pass. I use new panty hose held on bucket with clothespins > and with legs brought snugly to the outside and clipped so that they cannot be > pulled back in by weight of honey. > > 8. cover honey buckey reasonably tightly ASAP to minimize water pickup by > honey. weigh bucket before and after filling to get net product. > > 9. decant honey into final containers. > > 10. clean all equipment with warm water. use soap only if necessary and then > rinse thoroughly. I do not submerse capping knife, but tend to wipe clean > while warm with paper or clean rag. > > ---- All this from an amateur. Other will have difference opinions and > knowledge. it works for me! FROM another amateur...don't forget to put the emptied frames near the hives for the bees to lick clean before storing them....(and don't throw those those cappings away!-use 'em.;-) take heart, I'm further north than you and extracted late last year and am extracting now too! My heart's in the highlands, my heart is not here. My heart's in the highlands, chasing the deer. (R. Burns) From jlks@u.washington.edu Sat Oct 1 13:01:13 EDT 1994 Article: 833 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!news.duke.edu!MathWorks.Com!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!sgiblab!sisters.cs.uoregon.edu!cs.uoregon.edu!news.uoregon.edu!netnews.nwnet.net!news.u.washington.edu!jlks From: jlks@u.washington.edu (Jordan Schwartz) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Too late for fresh supers? Date: 26 Sep 1994 01:23:34 GMT Organization: University of Washington Lines: 23 Message-ID: <3657qm$7pu@news.u.washington.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: homer01.u.washington.edu I just finished building a new garage in my backyard, so I was able to go pick up and bring home the two hives of bees that I had had to move during the construction. Needless to say, our reunion after a month and a half apart was tearful and heartwarming (alright, bees don't have lachrymal glands, but you get the picture). When I had moved them, they had barely started in on the the third super (including the brood chamber), and I wasn't expecting much out of them, this being their (and my) first year. Lo and behold, when I went in today, I found that they had filled and capped every cell of every frame I had given them. Of course, had I been able to check them more often, I would have given them more room earlier, but I couldn't, so I didn't. My question is: it is now late September, and though it is still sunny and in the mid-80's here the Northwest (Seattle), I wonder if it would be useful at all to give them a new super with some fresh frames to work on? Could it hurt? I was planning on letting them winter with three supers (it being their first year, and me being the generous type), but maybe if they even fill out part of a fourth super, I could just leave them with that and harvest the third super... Kibitzing would be appreciated... Jordan From pollinator@aol.com Sat Oct 1 13:01:13 EDT 1994 Article: 834 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!pipex!sunic!ugle.unit.no!trane.uninett.no!nntp.uio.no!nac.no!eunet.no!nuug!EU.net!uunet!newstf01.cr1.aol.com!newsbf01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: moving bees from NC to FL Date: 25 Sep 1994 21:52:02 -0400 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 7 Sender: news@newsbf01.news.aol.com Message-ID: <3659g2$j45@newsbf01.news.aol.com> References: NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf01.news.aol.com In article , hhickman@ess.harris.com (H. Harris Hickman) writes: considering moving bees to Florida. You can get a NC inspection certificate and get the bees into Florida, by checking with FL state inspection. But, as of now, you can't get back into NC (legally), as it has had a quarantine for several years. From LJR7183@rigel.TAMU.EDU Sat Oct 1 13:01:14 EDT 1994 Article: 835 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!news.tamu.edu!libcpd7.tamu.edu!user From: LJR7183@rigel.TAMU.EDU (LARRY REYNOLDS) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Moving established Hives Followup-To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Date: 26 Sep 1994 02:50:55 GMT Organization: TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY Lines: 17 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: libcpd7.tamu.edu It has just started to cool off in Central Texas. The nights are around 55 to 60. I do not know if now is a good time to move established hives. I have been wanting to keep bees since I was six years old. That is almsost 40 years ago. It seems like something always comes up in the spring and early summer that keeps me from getting setup. I have a good location. There seems to be hives in the area as my flowers are full of the most beautiful Italian bees I have ever seen. I just do not know if now, the beginning of the fall, is a good time to move established hives as I have the chance to get a couple. I do not know why not, but I don't see the harm in asking. Larry Reynolds Supervisor, Current Periodicals Sterling Evans Library College Station, Tx From owen@rsnz.govt.nz Sat Oct 1 13:01:14 EDT 1994 Article: 836 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!ames!waikato!comp.vuw.ac.nz!watsonathome.rsnz.govt.nz!user From: owen@rsnz.govt.nz (Owen Watson) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: double colony -- advice wanted Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 19:29:17 +1200 Organization: Royal Society of New Zealand Lines: 24 Message-ID: References: <35k0jq$jbe@sun4.bham.ac.uk> <170397944S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: watsonathome.rsnz.govt.nz In article <170397944S86.SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu>, SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris) wrote: > Better yet, go to a library and read up on two queen management > techniques in "The Hive and the Honeybee". Another reference: The Skyscraper Hive, by Father M Dugat, Faber & Faber, mcmxlviii . and The single-Queen and Two-Queen Systems of Colony Management under commercial beekeeping conditions (Journal of the Royal New Zealand Institute of Horticulture, date unknown). The author says that it requires more work and equipment but gets you more honey for your time/investment etc. Another advantage of the two-queen system is that if one queen fails, the colony doesn't. -- _______________________________________________ Owen Watson, The Royal Society of New Zealand Web server: http://www.rsnz.govt.nz/ From P.Waring@irl.cri.nz Sat Oct 1 13:01:15 EDT 1994 Article: 837 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!ames!waikato!comp.vuw.ac.nz!zephyr.grace.cri.nz!irl.cri.nz!P.Waring From: P.Waring@irl.cri.nz (Peter Waring) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re- Extracting - advice needed Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 18:05:35 Organization: Industrial Research Limited, NEW ZEALAND Lines: 13 Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: 131.203.199.239 X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A] It saves much trouble to place a Porter bee escape in a board below the super overnight before removing the super. Most of the bees will go down and join their friends during the night, and only a few will remain when you carry the super away. Also, whilst it is OK to put the emptied frames near the hive for the bees to clear up when you only have one hive, to do so with numbers of hives around in the fall can start an epidemic of robbing of the weaker hives by the stronger. Much better to put a super with the emptied frames on top of the hive and let the bees clean up that way. Peter Waring P.Waring@irl.cri.nz From vmjr@netcom.com Sat Oct 1 13:01:16 EDT 1994 Article: 838 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!csulb.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!vmjr From: vmjr@netcom.com (Victor M. J. Ryden) Subject: Royal Jelly Message-ID: Sender: vmjr@netcom.com (Victor M.J. Ryden) Reply-To: vmjr@netcom.com Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest) X-Newsreader: ZipNews Reader/Mailer v0.93b (Beta) Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 11:09:53 GMT Lines: 9 I was at a party last night and someone mentioned that they were taking Royal Jelly. What is it and how is it "harvested"! -- Thanks, Victor M.J. Ryden POTS: (213) 236-1822 - Voice So Calif Assn of Govts - SCAG (213) 236-1825 - Fax 818 W 7th St, 12th Fl ISP: vmjr@netcom.com Los Angeles, CA 90017-3435 CIS: 71551,1415 From miyasato@isci.kyutech.ac.jp Sat Oct 1 13:01:16 EDT 1994 Article: 839 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!emalpha2.em.doe.gov!darwin.sura.net!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!gatech!rutgers!uwvax!sinetnews!news.u-tokyo.ac.jp!wnoc-tyo-news!aist-nara!wnoc-kyo-news!hakozaki.karrn!wnoc-fukuoka-news!shiwasu!miyasato From: miyasato@isci.kyutech.ac.jp (Shinji Miyasato) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Request info on veterinary schools Date: 26 Sep 94 07:04:55 GMT Organization: Information Science Center of Kyushu Inst. of Tech. Lines: 37 Distribution: sci Message-ID: NNTP-Posting-Host: murasaki.isci.kyutech.ac.jp Sorry if I'm posting this to the wrong group. A friend asked me to post this: --------- I'm a 3rd year undergraduate majoring in veterinary science in Japan. I would like to study clinical veterinary science in the United States, England, or some other English-speaking country. I would appreciate any information you have on the following points: 1. Which universities or colleges have courses in clinical veterinary science? 2. What are the requirments for admission and what, if any, are the special strengths or areas of interest? 3. Can foreign students seek admisson, and is there any financial aid available? Mika TANABE Miyazaki University of Japan --------- Please answer by E-MAIL to: miyasato@isci.kyutech.ac.jp Thank you very much. -- Shinji Miyasato ITK : Institute Tecnologico de Kyushu -------------------------------------------------- Por favor, me traga uma cerveja gelada! From nunnun@cix.compulink.co.uk Sat Oct 1 13:01:17 EDT 1994 Article: 840 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!EU.net!uknet!cix.compulink.co.uk!nunnun From: nunnun@cix.compulink.co.uk ("Norman Lunnun") Subject: Re Moving Established Hives Message-ID: Organization: Compulink Information eXchange Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 22:36:09 GMT X-News-Software: Ameol Lines: 11 Larry Renolds ask about moving hives. The rule I use is under 3 feet or over 3 miles. I have just moved 5 hives to over 3 miles from their original spot,in about 6 weeks time I shall be able to move them back to the spot I want them to spend winter in,I need to do this although this is within 400 yards of their original spot. Bees fly upto about a three mile radious of the hive,so moving them over three miles stops a bee finding it's way back to the original site. I should imagine moving them when the climate is cooler would be more benaficial as the bees are not so active and not flying so far. Norman Lunnun,Uttoxeter.UK. From pollinator@aol.com Sat Oct 1 13:01:18 EDT 1994 Article: 841 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swiss.ans.net!newstf01.cr1.aol.com!newsbf01.news.aol.com!not-for-mail From: pollinator@aol.com (Pollinator) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: pollination newsletter Date: 26 Sep 1994 22:17:04 -0400 Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Lines: 26 Sender: news@newsbf01.news.aol.com Message-ID: <367vb0$e5u@newsbf01.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: newsbf01.news.aol.com Beekeepers interested in crop pollination service may be interested in subscribing to Eastern Pollinator Newsletter, which is a vehicle for practical information on pollination. It is designed primarily to help growers, but will be of interest to pollination beekeepers and several other disciplines. List Your Pollination Service (Eastern USA and Canada) Give name, address, phone, number of hives available, areas and crops where you can serve. Deadline for listing 1-1-95. Not required to subscribe for listing, but, of course, we hope you will. Subscription for 1995 $12. Looking for resource persons for several regions. If you are well informed on pollination systems in your area, or if you could provide brief articles on specifics of pollination, or help make contacts, or mailing lists of growers who need managed pollination of their crops, let us know. We are trying to cross pollinate some fields where there is not enough communication in practical aspects. -Growers, pollination beekeepers, extension, researchers, etc. A brochure on watermelon pollination is available from our Info Service for SASE, and one is nearly ready on apples. These can be used to inform your customers; we can get you a copy ready master, customized for your business, for a nominal fee. Some resources are also available on request on bees and pesticide misuse. Eastern Pollinator Newsletter, PO Box 1215, Hemingway, SC 29554, 803-558-9598 Dave Green, Editor From dharry@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu Sat Oct 1 13:01:18 EDT 1994 Article: 842 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!library.ucla.edu!news.ucdavis.edu!ucdmc.ucdavis.edu!dharry From: dharry@ucdmc.ucdavis.edu (David J. Harry) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: Re- Extracting - advice needed Date: Mon, 26 Sep 1994 22:19:57 Organization: Information Resources, UC Davis Lines: 15 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: dh.ucdmc.ucdavis.edu >Also, whilst it is OK to put the emptied frames near the hive for the bees to >clear up when you only have one hive, to do so with numbers of hives around in >the fall can start an epidemic of robbing of the weaker hives by the stronger. >Much better to put a super with the emptied frames on top of the hive and let >the bees clean up that way. I've tried this in central Calif. with little success: the bees simply start refilling the partially empty supers. American Bee Journal article suggested putting an empty super (no frames) between the brood chamber and the supers to be cleaned. This presumably prevents the bees from refilling the upper supers. I tried this also, with limited success. Ultimately, I went back to placing the empty supers close to the hives. You have to watch carefully, since they'll begin to disassemble the comb when the honey is gone! I've had no apparent problem with robbing behaviour. From killoran@ll.mit.edu Sat Oct 1 13:01:19 EDT 1994 Article: 843 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!lll-winken.llnl.gov!noc.near.net!MathWorks.Com!news2.near.net!ll.mit.edu!killoran From: killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran) Subject: Pictures of my extracting fiasco! Message-ID: <9409271236.PN16855@LL.MIT.EDU> Sender: news@ll.mit.edu Organization: MIT Lincoln Lab -- Lexington, MA Date: Tue, 27 Sep 94 12:36:42 -0400 Lines: 31 Hi all, Well, here's descriptions of the picture to follow! As this was my first year beekeeping, I rented an extractor with a beekeeper friend and brought my supers over to his house. We left mine sitting in my car (to warm up in the sun....) and went to work extracting his supers. After a few hours, his wife came downstairs and asks me if I know there's a slew of bees around my car! Oh no! Beginners mistake! Anyway, the top picture is my friend and me (on right) just after we took the supers out of my car. The bottom two are after the supers were out for ~10 minutes. The top picture doesn't really do justice to the number of bees flying around, due to the distance. The bottom two, however, show the little Starlines well! A bit of moving the supers from one spot to another in the backyard combined with some smoking got rid of the robbers. They had only stolen a palm sized area of comb and cleaned up the dripping burr comb... live and learn! -Mike Killoran -Westford, MA -- Mike Killoran Zen says: killoran@ll.mit.edu Cease to do evil, (617) 981-2667 (Lexington, MA USA) Try to do good. From killoran@ll.mit.edu Sat Oct 1 13:01:21 EDT 1994 Article: 844 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!swiss.ans.net!solaris.cc.vt.edu!uunet!xn.ll.mit.edu!ll.mit.edu!killoran From: killoran@ll.mit.edu (Mike Killoran) Subject: Re: Pictures of my extracting fiasco! In-Reply-To: killoran@ll.mit.edu's message of Tue, 27 Sep 94 12:36:42 -0400 Message-ID: <9409271240.PN17298@LL.MIT.EDU> Sender: news@ll.mit.edu Organization: MIT Lincoln Lab -- Lexington, MA References: <9409271236.PN16855@LL.MIT.EDU> Date: Tue, 27 Sep 94 12:40:31 -0400 Lines: 4599 Save this article to a file. Cut off any thing before the 'begin' line and after the 'end' line. 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