Subject: Meat curing/smoking FAQ

From: [email-masked] (Richard Thead)
Date: 6 Jan 1995 19:01:37 GMT

Here it is.  This is the first post of this FAQ so please feel free to 
comment.

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+---------------------+--------------------------------------------------+
|  Richard Thead      |      email: [email-masked] -or-          |
|  Tucson, AZ         |             [email-masked]                 |
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Meat Curing and Smoking FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQ) in the
group rec.food.preserving

This file is a compilation of shared knowledge and answers to
frequently asked questions of the group rec.food.preserving.  As
such, this file is updated.  Be a contributor--point out mistakes,
write sections and reviews, provide us with new sources.  All
contributors will be cited in this file.

Contributors: Richard Thead
Last Updated: 01-05-1995

Copyright 1995  Richard Thead.  All rights reserved.
You may use and copy this file as long as the contributors' names
and this copyright remains intact.

CHARTER

Rec.food.preserving is a newsgroup devoted to the discussion of 
recipes, equipment, and techniques of food preservation.  Current
food preservation techniques that rightly should be discussed in 
this forum include canning, freezing, dehydration, pickling, smoking,
salting, distilling, and potting.  Foodstuffs are defined as produce
(both fruits and vegetables), meat, fish, dairy products, culinary
and medicinal herbs.  Discussions should be limited to home-grown
or home-preserved foods.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

I.   Curing

II.  Smoking

III. Specific Foods
 
IV.  Other Sources (besides this FAQ)

V.   References

-------------- I. Curing -------------

[Why is meat cured?]

  For a couple of reasons.  One is safety.  When meat is cold smoked
its temperature often stays in the danger zone for several hours or
days.  Many environmental factors of this treatment are such that
the growth of dangerous bacteria is greatly accelerated.   The
curing of the meat inhibits this growth.

  The other reason is traditional preparation.  There are many curing
techniques that were developed in the days before refrigeration
that are continued today for traditional reasons.  A good example is
corned beef.

     Oldtime butcher shops closed every weekend.  Ice, the
     only refrigerant available, could not dependably hold
     fresh meat for two days.  To keep unsold meat from
     going to waste, the butcher soaked the meat in a strong
     brine or covered it with coarse salt to trigger osmosis.
     The grains of salt were called "corn" in England, and the
     name "corned beef" stuck with the product. [1]

[What is osmosis?]

  Osmosis is the movement of water across a membrane from weak solutions
toward strong solutions. [1]

[What is meant by "the danger zone"?]

  The "danger zone" is the temperature range between 40 and 140
degrees F. When uncured meat remains in this range for more than 2 hours
the growth of dangerous bacteria increases to a dangerous level.

[What other factors affect the growth of bacteria?]

  When meat is smoked, the environment is robbed of most if its oxygen.
If this is combined with temperatures between 40 and 140F, the growth
of the bacteria that causes botulism is increased.

[What is botulism?]

  Botulism is an intoxication of the bacteria clostridium botulinum.
This bacteria is anaerobic meaning that it requires an environment 
relatively free of oxygen to multiply.  It also requires a moist 
environment and temperatures between 40 and 140F. The symptoms of 
botulism are sore throat, vomiting, blurred vision, cramps, diarrhea, 
difficulty breathing, and central nervous system damage (including 
paralysis).  Symptoms usually occur within 12 to 36 hours. The fatality 
rate is up to 70%.  [2]

[What are the commonly used curing compounds?]

  Salt, sugar, sodium nitrite and sodium nitrate.  Salt and sugar both
cure meat by osmosis.  In addition to drawing the water from the food, 
they dehydrate and kill the bacteria that make food spoil.  In general,
though, use of the word "cure" refers to processing the meat with either
sodium nitrite or sodium nitrate.

  Sodium nitrite and sodium nitrate are the basis for two commercially 
used products: Prague powders #1 and #2.  Prague powder #1 is a mixture
of 1 part sodium nitrite and 16 parts salt.  The chemicals are combined 
and crystallized to assure even distribution.  Even though diluted, only
4 ounces of Prague powder #1 is required to cure 100 lbs of meat.  A
more typical measurement for home use is 1 tsp per 5 lbs of meat. 
Prague powder #2 is a mixture of 1 part sodium nitrite, .64 parts sodium
nitrate and 16 parts salt.  It is primarily used in dry-curing.

  One other commonly available curing product is Morton's Tender Quick. 
It is a mixture of salt, sodium nitrite, sodium nitrate and sugar.  Ask 
your butcher or grocer to stock it for you.

[Where can these compunds be obtained?]

  If you are chummy with a local butcher who does curing, maybe (s)he
will sell you a small quantity.  Otherwise, the Sausage Maker offers all
items mentioned here and elsewhere in this FAQ mail order.  See the 
books section for a phone number where you can obtain a catalog.

[What is spray pumping?]

  It is the process of injecting the meat with cure using a special 
purpose needle.

[What's trichinosis?]
  It is an infestation of trichinae.  The parasites invade the voluntary
muscles causing severe pain and edema.  It can be avoided by ensuring
that cooked pork reaches an internal temperature  of 150 degrees F.

[If my cured pork doesn't reach a safe temperature, what about 
trichinosis?]

 Trichinae can also be killed by freezing the pork according to the 
following chart:

       Temperature           Grp1-days      Grp2-days
       -----------           ---------      ---------
         5 deg F                20             30
       -10 deg F                10             20
       -20 deg F                 6             12

  Group 1 comprises product in separate pieces not exceeding 6" in
  thickness or arranged on separate racks with the layers not
  exceeding 6" in depth.

  Group 2 comprises product in pieces, layers or within containers
  the thickness of which exceeds 6" but not 27".  [3]

[What about dry-curing sausages and meats?]

  I'll leave this topic open for someone with real experience.  The dry 
climate in Tucson makes it difficult to maintain the ideal 70% relative 
humidity required for dry-curing so I've never even tried.

-------------- II. Smoking -------------

[What is the difference between smoke cooking and curing?]

  Pretty simple; Smoke cooking is done at higher temperatures in order 
to cook the meat.  Smoke curing is really just smoking cured meat or 
sausage.

[What are the proper temperatures for smoke cooking meat?]

  I prefer to keep the temperature around 220F.  This means the 
temperature *at* the meat.  I use a large log burning smoking pit with 
an offset firebox so it's easy to maintain this.  In an upright water 
smoker you will have trouble keeping the temperature this low, since the
heat builds up at the top where the meat is.  You can achieve decent 
results with a water smoker, but the cooking time will be shorter and 
the depth of smoke penetration will be less.  My briskets and pork 
shoulders smoke for 20-24 hours; pork ribs and loin roasts take less 
time.

[How important is temperature control during smoke curing?]

  Very.  If you are smoking sausages, excess heat will melt the fat out 
and leave the final product dry and crumbly.  This I know from 
experience.  Here, we're talking about temperatures around 140F, 
although it varies from recipe to recipe.  This is very difficult to 
maintain in a wood burning smoker.  Mine has a slow smoking section 
farthest away from the fire.  With experience, I've learned to control 
the temperature in this section without overdamping the air inlet.  Some
other meats, like bacon and ham, are a little more tolerant of higher 
heat, but it can affect the quality of the final product.

  The best solution is a thermostat controlled gas or electric slow 
smoker like those sold by the Sausage Maker (see sources).  These are 
not good general purpose smokers, in my opinion.  I just don't think 
they do nearly as well as a log burning pit for smoke cooking.

  Unfortunately for the many water smoker owners, they just won't do for
slow smoking--don't even bother trying.

[Is closing down the air inlet dampers a good way to keep the 
temperature down?]

  If you keep the temperature low by closing down the inlet dampers, the
smoke gets thick and sooty and produces an unattractive and bitter 
coating on the surface of the meat.  I prefer to keep the fire burning 
more freely and control the temperature by providing some draft between 
the fire and the meat.

[What are the various woods used for smoking?]

     Alder
     The traditional wood for smoking salmon in the Pacific
     Northwest, alder also works well with other fish.  It has a
     light delicate flavor.

     Apple and Cherry
     Both woods produce a slightly sweet, fruity smoke that's mild
     enough for chicken or turkey, but capable of flavoring a ham.

     Hickory
     Hickory is the king of the woods in the Southern barbeque belt,
     as basic to the region's cooking as cornbread.  The strong,
     hearty taste is perfect for pork shoulder and ribs, but it also
     enhances any read meat or poultry.

     Maple
     Mildly smoky and sweet, maple mates well with poultry, ham, and
     vegetables.

     Mesquite
     The mystique wood of the past decade, mesquite is also America's
     most misunderstood wood.  It's great for grilling because it
     burns very hot, but below average for barbecuing for the same
     reason.  Also, the smoke taste turns from tangy to bitter over
     an extended cooking time.  Few serious pitmasters use mesquite,
     despite a lot of stories about its prevalence in the Southwest.

     Oak
     If hickory is the king of barbecue woods, oak is the queen.
     Assertive but always pleasant, it's the most versatile of
     hardwoods, blending well with a wide range of flavors.  What it
     does to beef is probably against the law in some states.

     Pecan
     The choice of many professional chefs, pecan burns cool and
     offers a subtle richness of character.  Some people call it a
     mellow version of hickory. [5]

[Rick, do you have any politically incorrect views about smoke cooking 
that you enjoy getting flamed about?]

  Don't get me started.

 --------------III. Specific Foods -------------

[Can I make a Smithfield Ham at Home?]

  These are unique since the hams come from only peanut-fed hogs.  They 
are worked with cure for 30-45 days.  Then they are smoked for at least 
7 days and left in the smokehouse for another 6 months.  "The Smithfield
ham or a reasonable facsimile is rather difficult to produce unless you 
have a steady supply of peanuts and a huge smokehouse 3-4 stories high."
[3]

[How do I make my own bacon at home?]

  It is my experience that bacon is the easiest product to produce at 
home and the results are as good as, or better than, the best
commercially produced bacon.

  I use Morton Tender Quick and brown sugar.  Rub down a slab of fresh 
bacon (pork belly) with a liberal quantity of the Tender Quick.  You 
can't really use too much but a cup or so should do.  Then follow with a
thorough rub of brown sugar (again, start with a cup or so).  Then place
the meat in heavy plastic and allow to cure for 7 days at 38F.  I use a 
small refrigerator for this.  I run a remote temperature probe inside 
and monitor the temperature, tweaking the thermostat when necessary. 
The temperature is important; too low (below 36F) and the curing action
will cease, too high (above 40F) and the meat will begin to spoil.  I 
also cut the pork belly in two and cure it with the meat surfaces face 
to face and the skin on the outside.  It helps it fit in the fridge and 
improves the curing action.  I then smoke it at 140-150F until the 
internal temperature of the pork reaches 128F (about 8 to 10 hours).  I 
find it best to remove the skin about 3/4 of the way through the smoking
process.  This way the fat is protected but still acquires some color. 
Chill overnight before using.

  If you are using Prague Powder #1, mix 2 oz with 1 lb of salt and use 
like the Tender Quick.

  Other sugars can be used instead of brown sugar.  Try honey or even 
some maple syrup.

[How do I make my own corned beef?]

  For best results, use trimmed briskets.

  Start with a curing brine.  This recipe comes from [3] and makes 
enough for 25 lbs of meat.

  5 quarts ice water (about 38-40F)
  8 oz. salt
  3 oz. Prague Powder #1
  3 oz. powdered dextrose

  Spray pump the briskets to about 12-15% of their original weight.
After pumping, the briskets are packed in a vat, and sprinkled with
whole pickling spice.  If more than one brisket is done at a time, pack 
them flesh to flesh with the fat sides out.  Add enough brine to cover 
and allow to cure for 3-4 days at 38-40F.  The meat is then ready to use
(but still requires cooking).

[What is pastrami and how do I make my own?]

  For best results, use trimmed briskets.

  Start with a curing brine.  This recipe comes from [3] and makes 
enough for 25 lbs of meat.

  5 quarts ice water (about 38-40F)
  8 oz. salt
  5 oz. Prague Powder #1
  5 oz. powdered dextrose
  1 Tbl garlic juice

  Prepare and cure as for corned beef.  After curing, remove from brine 
and rub liberally with cracked black pepper and coriander seeds.  Smoke 
at 140F until the meat is dry and then increase smoker temperature to 
200-220F and hold until internal temperature of meat reaches 170-180F. 
Chill overnight before using.  This meat is fully cooked.

[How do I make beef jerky?]

  There are a jillion recipes for jerky--take a look in the recipe 
archives.  I prefer a teriyaki-based marinade (use 1/2 tsp of Prague
Powder #1 or 1 tsp of Tender Quick for safety) with other spices, 
lightly smoked.  My recipe is not for publication, but it's nothing out 
of the ordinary.  Experiment with your own combinations of spices and 
find something you like.

-------------- IV. Other Sources (besides this FAQ) -------------

[This FAQ does not tell me what I need to know!]

Please put the question to the group, rec.food.preserving.  Or...

BOOKS:

 Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing (1984).  Rytek Kutas.
Self published.  Can be obtained from the author at The Sausage
Maker Inc./ 26 Military Road/ Buffalo NY 14207. (716)-876-5521.

-------------- V. References -------------

[1]  Food Science--Osmosis, Rita Sorci Planey, "Fine Cooking",
     Aug/Sep 1994, pp12,13

[2]  The New Professional Chef (1991).  The Culinary Institute of
     America.

[3]  Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing (1984), Rytek Kutas.

[4]  On Food and Cooking (1984), Harold McGee.

[5]  Smoke and Spice (1994), Jamison and Jamison.

Please direct questions, comments, criticisms, and contributions to:
  Richard Thead
  [email-masked] -or-
  [email-masked]