Subject: Re: mole poblano

From: [email-masked] (John C. Gilkey)
Date: Tue, 22 Nov 1994 07:47:45 -0800

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked]
(Edward Gosfield) wrote:

> I hope some resident expert can indulge my curiosity concerning the 
> development of what is now called mole poblano--the various Mexican 
> sauces employing chocolate, and classically used with guajolote 
> (turkey)..a seasonally appropriate question, i believe.
snip> 
> I wonder when such ingredients as pork fat, coriander, almonds, raisins, 
> etc. entered the gustatory canon, and whether these versions of mole 
> poblano are intentionally "hispanic", "priveleged" or call it what you 
> will, "uptown" versions of still extant more native dishes.  And when did 
> the primarily 'spicy hot' or savory culinary environment of chocolate, as 
> reported by Bernal Diaz del Castillo, change to a somewhat sweeter or 
> 'hot-sweet' constellation of flavors.  I suppose all of this could have 
> occurred very early after Spanish conquest, since the elements were all 
> present by then, but has there been a well known evolution or 
> codification in practice of the various types and significance of mole(s) 
> poblano?  Are there well known regional variations beyond the known local 
> idiosyncracies of each village and town as mentioned by Kennedy?

Clue is in the name: mole, being the word for sauce, and poblano, from the
town of Puebla, a major city in colonial times.  There were many religious
houses, and the nuns were famed for their cooking, developing many
recipes.  Not many professional outlets for women in those days.   Puebla
is also renowned for its azulejo tiles, and the kitchens in the colonial
buildings were quite spectacular (some are open to visitors).  The area
had been a cultural and commercial crossroads in prehispanic times as
well, with the city of Cholula, with links to Oaxaca (hence cacao). 
Spanish cooking was heavily influenced by the Moorish tradition--raisins,
almonds, etc. in meat dishes--as is still done in Morocco (and the tiles
were definitely a Moorish tradition).

 According to Salazar Monroy in La Tipica Cocina Poblana y los guisos de
sus religiosas (published in 1945 but I bought it in a Puebla museum in
the 1970s), mole poblano was probably invented in Puebla in the late 17th
century, when nuns competed to feed the bishops.  There are many legends,
such as one convent being caught by surprise, so throwing together
everything they had in the pantry--hence mole poblano.  Monroy credits the
Dominican Sister Andrea de la Asuncion of the Convento of Santa Rosa who
was asked to prepare a special dish by Manuel Fernandez de Santa Cruz y
Sahagun, who was Bishop of Puebla from 1676 to1699.  The occasion was a
visit on  Nov. 30, 1680 by the viceroy Don Antonio de la Cerda y Aragon,
Count of Paredes and Marquis of Laguna.  Don Antonio was a patron of the
arts, including the poet Sor Juana Ines de la Cruz.  The Bishop and the
Viceroy loved the mole, and the other convents begged Sister Andrea to
share her recipe.  It then became popular with rich families, and
eventually the people for special occasions.  

Monroy's book gives four recipes, each from a different convent in Puebla,
so there were variations from the beginning.  Facts about Sister Andrea
should be easy to check for an historian--nice to give credit to someone,
rather than just Anonymous.

Laurel Cooper, c/o [email-masked]. edu

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From: [email-masked] (Charlie Sorsby)
Date: 20 Nov 1994 22:40:05 GMT

Some time ago, someone enquired about how to make an outdoor oven
very similar (by the description) to the hornos that are so common
here abouts.

There is a description (with drawings), at the beginning of the
section on breads, in _The Best from New Mexico Kitchens_,
published by New Mexico Magazine, Bataan Memorial Building,
Santa Fe, NM  87503.  (Pp 10-13 in the cook book.)

-- 
Best,

Charlie "Older than dirt" Sorsby				"I'm the NRA!"
	  [email-masked]

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From: [email-masked] (Diane Duane)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 1994 23:27:48 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>, John C. Gilkey ([email-masked]) writes:
>...There are many legends,
>Dominican Sister Andrea de la Asuncion of the Convento of Santa
Rosa...

Don't forget the charming story in which it's said that the Sister
went to bed not knowing what to make for the Bishop, and the
Blessed Virgin appeared to her in a dream and said,  "So look. 
Take a nice big piece of chocolate...."  -- and proceeded to give
her the recipe.  ...One of the pleasanter religious traditions I
know.  best!  D.

                        Diane Duane
   part of the Owl Springs Partnership, Co. Wicklow, Ireland
 "A little science...a little magic...a little chicken soup."
             Also on Compu$erve: 73200,3112