Subject: Ketchup--Many old recipes and a little history

From: [email-masked] (Shel Talmy)
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 1994 22:05:33 GMT

Here is an article I saved that was posted to the Cooks forum on CompuServe a
while ago.  It's an excerpt from a 1887 cookbook with recipes for ketchup,
most of which are not tomato based.

As far as the history of ketchup is concerned, from memory (which is
possibly/probably faulty), the word is from Malay and was the generic term for
several varieties of sweet or salty brown sauce called "ketjap".

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   This file contains an excerpt--the Catsups and Sauces section--from The
Buckeye Cookbook written by Estelle W. Wilcox in 1887. Note that the style
is a bit odd, but it is very enjoyable reading and she has some interesting
things to say.

   The point I thought was most interesting was that the "catsup" of
Estelle's time, was nothing more than a certain type of sauce made of "fruit"
and used as a condiment, not simply the tomato stuff we attribute to the term
"catsup". In this file you will find all the catsup recipes have been typed
in, I originally started this file because of a message about catsup posted
by Sheldon Belinkoff CIS 76117,3361 on 10 Mar 92. The discussion ensued about
tomato catsup, but I decided it was time to set the record straight! Catsup
is not just for tomatoes!!

   Most of the sauces, butters, colorings, mustards and powders that
highlight one herb or another has also been typed in along with the names of
all the other sauces, butters, colorings, mustards and powders so you know
what I have and you don't. If you see one you want, post a message to me on
Cooks and I will add it.

   As time allows I will finish the file and enter all the others, but my
fingers are tired and I want to get this up before the catsup thread goes as
stale as rotten catsup so here it is.

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                           CATSUPS AND SAUCES.

   Al select perfect fruit; cook in porcelain or granite iron-ware, never
in brass. In making catsup, instead of boiling, some sprinkle the tomatoes
with salt and let them stand overnight, then strain and add spices, etc., and
a little sugar. Bottle in glass or stone, and never use tin cans; keep in a
cool, dry dark place. If on opening there is a leathery mold on top,
carefully remove every particle of it and the catsup will not be injured. To
prevent this molding some do not fill the bottles quite to the top with
catsup, but fill up with hot vinegar. If there are white specks of mold all
through the catsup it is spoiled. If on opening and using a part there is
danger that the rest may sour, scald, and if too thick add vinegar. Sauces
should always be made with great care in a pan set in hot water, having the
sauce pan bright and clean if a delicate flavor is desired, especially if the
sauce is drawn butter; or the custard-kettle will be found convenient, as the
stock or other foundation may first be heated quickly by putting the inner
kettle on the stove, and when other ingredients are added and there is danger
of burning place again in the outer kettle made ready with boiling water.
Butter and those sauces containing eggs should never boil. Wooden spoons or
paddles must be used for stirring. A set of paddles of different sizes will
be found convenient for stirring sauces, gravies, mushes, and many other
dishes, and will not scratch or mar the kettle or pan. When necessary to
scrape down the sides of kettle in which catsup or other mixtures of like
character are being cooked, an artist's spatula will be found the best
utensil and should be provided in every kitchen rather than destroy the
temper of sharpened knives by heat.

   The pulp of fruits is used for the foundation of all catsups and
wonderfully retains the flavor, notwithstanding all the ingredients added.
Use a fine wire sieve or strainer in their preparation-the extension strainer
is the most convenient-and a good rule is to allow for every quart of the
juicy pulp one pound sugar, two blades mace, three of cinnamon, one teaspoon
each whole cloves and pepper corns; boil all down one-third, then skim out
spices, add sugar, boil till thick, reduce to a proper consistency with
vinegar, and bottle for use. This applies to cherries, plums, grapes, and
all kinds of berries.

   The preparation and appearance of sauces and gravies are of the highest
consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of the cook more
display itself. Their special adaptability to the various viands they are to
accompany cannot be too much studied, in order that they may harmonize and
blend with them perfectly, and in serving do not pour over but around the
meat. Sauces should possess a decided character, and whether sharp or sweet,
savoury or plain, they should carry out their names in a distinct manner,
although, of course, not so much flavored as to make them too piquant on the
one hand, or too mawkish on the other. Brown sauces, generally speaking,
should scarcely be so thick as white sauces, and it is well to bear in mind
that when intended to mask the various dishes of poultry or meat, they should
be of a sufficient consistency to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over
which they are poured. For browning and thickening sauces, etc., browned
flour may be properly emloyed. The carmel coloring answers very well for the
sauces and gravies, but when they can be made to look brown by using browned
flour, catsup, tomatoes, or any color sauce, it is far preferable. As,
however, in cooking so much depends upon appearance, perhaps it would be as
well for the inexperienced cook to use the caramel. When no browning is at
hand to heighten the color of sauce, dissolve a lump of sugar in an iron
spoon over a sharp fire; when it is in a liquid state, drop it into the sauce
or gravy quite hot. Care, however, must be taken not to put in too much, as
it would impart a very disagreeable flavor.

   Gravies and sauces should be sent to table very hot, and there is all the
more necessity for the cook to see to this point, as from their being usually
served in small quantities, they are more liable to cool quickly than if they
were in a larger body. The bain marie will be found almost indispensable for
this purpose. This is a large open vessel kept filled with hot (not boiling)
water at the back of the stove or range or in some warm place. In this
several stew-pans, or large tin cups with covers and handles, are fitted
which are intended to hold all the cooked dishes that are to be kept hot
until the rest of the dinner is ready to serve. When a dinner is delayed,
there is no better way of keeping all dishes hot, and preserving their
flavor. If a bain marie is not among the cooking utensils a large dripping-
pan of hot water will be found a very good substitute, or lay two or three
bricks on back of stove or range on which to set sauces, vegetables, etc.,
until ready to serve.

   Those sauces of which cream or eggs form a component part should be well
stirred as soon as these ingredients are added to them, and must never be
allowed to boil, as they would instantly curdle. White pepper is a much nicer
seasoning than black for sauces and all fine cooking, as it does not color
and has not so pungent a flavor. An excellent thickening for soup, sauces and
gravies is prepared as follows: Bring butter just to the boiling point in a
small stewpan, dredge in flour, stirring together until well cooked. This,
when not cooked brown, is "White Roux," and when browned, "Brown Roux." Thin
this with a part of the soup, sauce or gravy, and add it to the whole,
stirring thoroughly. The flour may be browned before using if intended for
brown gravies or sauces. A richer thickening is made in the proportion of the
yolks of three eggs to eight tablespoons milk or cream. Beat the yolks, add
the milk and strain through a fine sieve. When adding to the sauce it must be
stirred during the whole time or the eggs will curdle, and the mixture should
only just simmer, not boil. If sauce is lumpy after adding thickening rub
again through a sieve. Melted butter or American Cooking Oil may be used in
place of oil in all recipes in which the latter is named. Sauces may also be
thickened with potato flour, ground rice, baked flour, arrowroot, etc.; the
latter will be found far preferable to ordinary flour for white sauces. Milk
or water may be used instead of stock in sauces, but the latter is better,
giving a finer flavor, though milk is richer. When any green coloring is used
if lemon juice is to be added it should not be put in until just before
sending to table. Any flavored vinegar preferred may be used instead of the
plain. An English salt sold by most grocers is best for seasoning sauces and
all cooking, giving a more delicate flavor, with none of the fishy taste
found so objectionable in most salt. Where a sieve is to be used in making
sauces, use the puree sieve.

   Herbs for seasoning are usually dried during the summer. The best kinds
are sage, thyme, sweet marjoram, tarragon, mint, sweet basil, parsley, bay
leaves, cloves, mace, celery seed and onions. If the seed of any of the seven
first mentioned is planted in little boxes on the window sill, or in a sunny
spot in the yard, all needed can generally be raised. Gather and dry as
follows: Parsley and tarragon should be dried in June and July, just before
flowering; mint in June and July; thyme, marjoram and savory in July and
August; basil and sage in August and September; all herbs should be gathered
in the sunshine, and dried by artificial heat; their flavor is best preserved
by keeping them in air-tight tin cans, or in tightly-corked glass bottles.
Mint, when used in recipes, usually means "spearmint" or "green mint," though
pennyroyal and peppermint are of the same family. The young leaves of from
one to six inches in length are the parts used. It grows on any good garden
soil, but comes forward earlier in a warm, sunny spot. It is propagated by
cuttings or dividing the roots of old plants in the spring, is very prolific,
and ought to find a place in every garden. Those who have conservatories
should keep a root in pots, to use with spring lamb before the leaves would
appear in the open air. Mint leaves for drying should be cut from the stalks
just before the plant blossoms, and spread out thinly in some dry, shady
place, where they can dry slowly. When dry, put up in paper bags and keep in
a dry place until wanted. Celery seed is a very nice addition to the
flavoring of sauces, and may be used instead of the fresh celery when the
latter is out of season. Pickled nasturtium seed, for which a recipe is given
under Pickles, will be found a good substitute for capers and is often used.
Gherkins, (small cucumber pickles) cut in small pieces, are also used instead
of capers when the latter are not obtainable. When drawn butter is used in
the composition of sauce to which lemon juice or vinegar is to be added,
always make it with water, never with milk, as the combination of the latter
with the acid would be most unwolesome.

   The common practice of preparing mustard for the table with vinegar, or
still more, with boiling water, materially checks the development of those
peculiar principles on which its pungency or strength almost entirely depends,
and cold water may cause it to ferment. It should therefore be mixed with
water that has been boiled and cooled to lukewarm. Put the mustard in a cup
with a small pinch of salt and mix with it very gradually sufficient water to
make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and mix well, rubbing
the lumps down with the back of a spoon until smooth, and do not add flavoring
until this paste is made. Mustard is much better freshly made, and only a
small quantity should be mixed at once.

Barberry Catsup.--Three quarts barberries stewed and strained, four quarts
cranberries, one cup raisins, a large quince and four small onions, all
stewed with a quart of water and strained. Mix these ingredients with the
barberries and add half cup vinegar, three-fourths cup salt, two cups sugar,
one dessert-spoon each ground clove and ground allspice, two tablespoons each
black pepper and celery seed, and one of ground mustard, one teaspoon each
cayenne, cinnamon and ginger, and a nutmeg. Let the whole boil one minute; if
too thick add vinegar or water. With the quantities given about three quarts
of catsup can be made.

Cherry Catsup.--One pint pure cherry juice, half pound sugar, teaspoon each
ground cloves and cinnamon. Boil to thick syrup and bottle.

Cucumber Catsup.--Peel, seed and grate on coarse grater, one dozen large
green cucumbers; put the pulp in a large towel and wring out all moisture
that can be extracted; peel and grate or chop fine four large onions and mix
with the grated cucumber, adding one ounce celery seed, heaping teaspoon
white pepper, tablespoon salt, half pint salad oil or American Cooking Oil,
and sufficient vinegar to make as thin as ordinary catsup. When all are
thoroughly blended put into wide-mouthed glass jars, put a teaspoon oil in
top of each jar and seal air-tight; or peel and chop three dozen cucumbers
and eighteen onions very fine; sprinkle over them three-fourths pint table
salt, put the whole in a sieve and let drain overnight; add a cup mustard
seed, half cup ground black pepper, mix well, and cover with good cider
vinegar.

Currant Catsup.--Four pounds fully-ripe currants, one and a half pounds
sugar, tablespoon ground cinnamon, teaspoon each salt, ground cloves and
pepper, pint vinegar; stew currants and sugar until quite thick, add other
ingredients and bottle for use; or, take juice of five pounds currants, three
pounds sugar, one pint vinegar, two tablespoons ground cinnamon, one each of
cloves, allspice and black pepper, one grated nutmeg and a pinch of salt.
Cook one-half hour.

Elderberry Catsup.--Pick from the stalk as many ripe elderberries as are
wanted to put down, put into a stone jar with enough strong vinegar to cover
them, bake in a hot oven three hours and strain while hot. Boil the liquor
thus obtained with cloves, mace, peppercorns and four or five shallots,
enough to give a considerable flavor; taste, and when flavor as liked, put in
one-half pound of the best anchovies to every quart of liquor; stir and boil
only until dissolved; bottle in pint bottles and cork carefully, sealing by
dipping corks in hot sealing-wax.

Grape Catsup.--Boil, and strain five pounds grapes thorough a colander, add
to the juice one pint vinegar, two and a half pounds sugar, one tablespoon
each ground cinnamon, cloves, allspice, pepper, and a half tablespoon salt.
Boil again until a little thick, bottle and seal.

Gooseberry Catsup.--Nine pounds gooseberries, five pounds sugar, one quart
vinegar, three tablespoons cinnamon, one and a half each of allspice and
cloves; the gooseberries should be nearly or quite ripe. Take off blossoms,
wash and put  them into a porcelain kettle, mash thoroughly, scald and put
through the colander, add sugar and spices, boil fifteen minutes and add the
vinegar cold; bottle immediately before it cools. Ripe Grapes prepared by
same rule make an excellent catsup.

Lemon Catsup.--One pound and a quarter of salt, quarter of a pound of ground
mustard, one ounce each of mace, nutmeg, cayenne and allspice, one gallon of
cider vinegar, eight or nine garlic cloves, fifteen large lemons; slice the
lemons, add the other ingredients, let simmer from twenty to thirty minutes,
place in a covered jar, stir every day for seven or eight weeks, strain,
bottle, cork and seal.

Liver Catsup.--Rub a very fresh beef liver thoroughly with rolled salt and
place it in a vessel that will not crush it; turn and rub thoroughly for ten
days, then mince into small dice and boil in a gallon of water closely
covered until reduced to three quarts; strain through a sieve and let settle
till next day; add one ounce each ginger and allspice and two ounces whole
black pepper, and boil slowly until reduced to three pints. When cold bottle
and keep well corked.

Oyster Catsup.--Procure oysters very fresh and open sufficient to fill pint
measure; save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with one pint good
cider, strain the oysters and put them in a mortar with a tablespoon salt,
one drachm cayenne, and two drachms pounded mace; pound the whole until
reduced to a pulp, then add it to the liquor in which they were scalded; boil
it again five minutes, and skim well; rub the whole through a sieve, and when
cold, bottle and cork closely. The corks should be sealed.

Pepper Catsup.--Take four dozen large red pepper-pods, three quarts vinegar,
three tablespoons grated horse-radish, five onions and one clove garlic. Boil
until soft, and strain through a sieve. Then add two tablespoons each of
black pepper, allspice, mace, cloves and salt. Boil again ten minutes; then
bottle. Some add one quart tomatoes and one cup sugar.

Plum Catsup.--To three pounds fruit take one and three-fourths pounds sugar,
one tablespoon each cloves, cinnamon, half ounce pepper, and a very little
salt; scald and put plums through the sieve then add sugar and spices and
boil to right consistency.

Tomato Catsup.--Half bushel ripe tomatoes, four ounces salt, three ounces
ground black pepper, one ounce cinnamon, half ounce ground cloves, one drachm
cayenne pepper, one gallon vinegar; slice the tomatoes and stew in their own
liquor until soft, and rub through a sieve fine enough to retain the seeds;
boil the pulp and juice down to the consistency of apple butter (very thick),
stirring steadily all the time to prevent burning; then add the vinegar with
which a small cup sugar and the spices have been mixed, boil up twice, remove
from fire, let cool and bottle. Those who like the flavor of onions may add
about half a dozen medium sized ones, peeled and sliced, fifteen minutes
before the vinegar and spices are put in.

Tomato Catsup.--Take one bushel firm ripe tomatoes, wipe them off nicely with
a damp cloth, cut out the cores, and put them in a porcelain-lined iron
kettle or a genuine bell-metal one.  Place over the fire, and pour over them
about three pints water, throw in two large handfuls peach leaves, with ten
or twelve onions or shallots cut fine.  Boil until the tomatoes are done,
which will take about two hours; then strain through a course-mesh sieve,
pour the liquid back again into the boiling kettle and add half a gallon good
strong cider vinegar; have ready two ounces ground spice, two ounces ground
black pepper, two ounces mustard (either ground or in the seed, as you
prefer), one ounce ground cloves, two grated nutmegs, two pounds light brown
sugar, and one pint salt; mix these ingredients well together before putting
in the boiler; then boil two hours, stirring continually to prevent burning.
If you like the catsup "hot," add cayenne pepper to your taste.  When cool,
fill bottles (reeded bottles are the nicest, they can be procured at the
house furnisher's and a set will last some time; they look better than ones
of all sizes and styles).  Cork and seal with bottle-wax so as to exclude the
air.  Keep in a cool, dry place for future use. This recipe is preferred to
all others-it has been used for years.  It keeps well, and has been
pronounced by competent judges superior to all others.

Tomato Catsup.--Stew and strain four quarts unpared, sliced tomatoes, add two
tablespoons each salt, mustard and black pepper and quarter tablespoon
cayenne, more or less as liked, cup of brown sugar and pint vinegar.  Boil to
the consistency of cream, watching carefully to prevent burning, then set on
back of stove and add half a tablespoon each of cinnamon and cloves and a
pint of current jelly, mixing thoroughly; can or bottle while hot.  Horse-
radish bottles or any small, wide-mouthed bottles are best for this purpose;
seal with corks and dip in sealing wax.  This will keep two years.

Walnut Catsup.--Procure one hundred walnuts at the time when you can run a
pin through them, slightly bruise, and put them into a jar with a handful
salt and one quart vinegar; let them stand eight days, stirring every day,
then drain the liquor off them, add one-fourth ounce each mace, nutmeg,
cloves, ginger, and whole black peppers, small piece horse-radish, twenty
shallots, or onions, and one-fourth pound anchovies, and boil half an hour.
It may be strained or not as preferred, and if required a little more vinegar
can be added according to taste. Bottle and seal.