Subject: Posion Ivy- Everything You Wanted To Know--
From: Ron Rushing <[email-masked]>
Date: 21 May 94 21:23:02 CST
Newsgroups: rec.gardens

I found this doccument in my files.  Its a compilation of several items
from here and there- Appolgies to any authors whos' names were
inadvertantly deleted--

===================================

Subject: Re: Poison Ivy, Oak, etc.
Date: 1 Jun 92 16:30:07 GMT

* Poison  Oak,  Poison  Ivy,  and Poison Sumac do pretty much the same
  thing  to you.  There is heated debate among botanists about whether
  Poison  Oak and Poison Ivy really the same species.  Poison Sumac is
  at least closely related.

* They  hurt  you through an oil that transfers to your skin, or which
  you can inhale from the fumes of the burning plant.  The oil doesn't
  wash  off  with  plain  water.   Ordinary soap usually doesn't do it
  either.   Some people claim to be immune to the irritation from this
  oil.   A  subset  of these have rolled around in Poison Ivy to prove
  it.  A subset of these have subsequently come down with severe cases
  of the rash.  It would be prudent to avoid Poison Ivy.

* The  best  thing  I've  found  to  deal with Poison Ivy is a product
  called "Technu Poison Oak and Ivy Cleanser" I found in the first-aid
  section  of  the drug store.  It's a liquid soap that can be used to
  try  and  wash  out  the  irritating  oil  before  or after the rash
  develops  (sooner  is  better).  One caution that isn't sufficiently
  emphasized  in  the  directions:   The  stuff  has a mild anesthetic
  effect.   This  makes  it possible to wash/scratch the affected area
  too  vigorously.   This  breaks  down  the  skin's  ability  to hold
  together.   The  effect  is  like  a  second-degree burn or the skin
  underneath  a  blister.   Very painful, and now you have to treat it
  like  a burn, with all the attendant danger of infection, etc.  Keep
  the washing with the Technu gentle, and you should have no problem.

Control:
--------

1.  The darn stuff grows roots all over the place, just like lots of
    ivy.  Each section seems to be able to grow without much help from
    the momma plant, once it gets going.  That means your ordinary
    weed killers won't have as much effect on it as you would like.
    So what if it dies here, it just keeps going over there, under
    those rocks.  We've used Roundup, and the long term effect seems
    to be that the ivy backs off, waits for everything else that the
    Roundup killed to decay, and then fills up the space vacated by
    its wimpy dead friends.  Other weed killers, the kind you wouldn't
    want to have around your horses, may do better.  We don't know.

2.  You can rip it out by the roots.  You'll need equipment and a
    method.  Put on old clothes and tall rubber boots.  Put on rubber
    gloves and coveralls.  Let your beard grow a few days if you can,
    too.  Wear a hat, preferably one that protects your ears.  Put
    leather garden gloves over the rubber gloves.  Rip the ivy out,
    being careful not to get it on your face.  DON'T scratch any
    itches, DON'T slap mosquitos, DON'T try to get that little black
    fly that's starting to munch on your eyeball.  Goggles or a
    beekeeper's bonnet might be helpful, you know.  Put all the ivy in
    a gubbidge bag in a gubbidge bucket, and tie it up.  Don't touch
    the bag again without gloves.

    To undress:  Take off the garden gloves and throw them away, or
    drop them right into the washer.  NOW WASH YOUR HANDS, that is,
    wash the rubber gloves.  With the rubber gloves still on, remove
    the coveralls and the boots.  The coveralls go right into the
    washer, along with your hat.  Wash the boots.  Remove the rest of
    your clothing, and put it all in the washer.  NOW WASH YOUR HANDS
    before you touch yourself -anywhere-.  Yes, especially -there-.
    Be careful where you step, too, so you don't walk in bare feet
    where you trod with ivy boots.  Take a shower or two.  Apply
    anti-histamine or cortisone ointment, or your other Favourite Cure
    if you discover, a day or two later, that you got some ivy on you
    anyway, in spite of the precautions.

    To wash the clothes: add Amway Tri-Zyme or some other good enzyme
    powder, and soak the clothes for an hour.  Then wash them.  Then
    wash them again.

3.  Goats eat poison ivy.  Keep goats, and they will eat your ivy,
    along with lots of other stuff. 

-------*--------

Here's what I've learned over the last few years from experience and
also from research at the local University Library. I've spent hours going
through dermatology journals reading up on this stuff. If anyone finds
mistakes
below, or has evidence to the contrary, feel free to post or e-mail me.
I'll try and keep this up-to-date.

ON THE RASH:

 * The irritant in poison ivy, poison sumac, and poison oak is urushiol.
   Urushiol is also found in the lacquer tree, but I doubt you have one
   of those.  The rash you get is an allergic reaction.  Everything I say
   below about poison ivy should also apply to poison oak and sumac.

 * If you brush up against a healthy undamaged plant, you won't usually
   get urushiol on you.  You usually have to come in contact with a damaged
   leaf.  Almost all plants have damaged leaves - either from insects,
   weather, or from your stepping on them.

 * The toxin exists in varying concentrations in the leaves, stems, and
   roots.  I have gotten a rash from all three, although the reaction I
   got from the roots was very minor.

 * The oil is easily transferred from one place to another.  For
   example, I got some on my shoelaces once, and I kept getting poison
   ivy on my hands for a couple of months before I figured out what was
   going on :-(. Once it is on your hands, it can, and will, end up
   anywhere on you body :-O . It is also common for it to be
   picked up on the hair of your dog or horse, and then repeatedly
   transferred to you.

 * Once you get the oil on clothing, it can sit for months and still cause
   a rash upon contact with your skin.  For example,lets say you get some
   poison ivy oil on your boots, then put the boots away for the winter.
   Next spring you get out the boots and go for a walk - but not in the woods.
   A few days later, voila - your hands are breaking out from putting on
   your boots and tying the laces.

 * The first time you in your life you're exposed to urushiol, you will
   not react to it.  In other words, you get one free pass.  After that,
   your body develops an allergic reaction, which is the rash you get from
   subsequent exposures.  The literature says it is possible to lose your
   allergic response if you are not exposed for a long period of time, like
   10 years or more.  So, if you haven't gotten poison ivy in 10 years, you
   may get another free pass.  There are a number of other chemical irritants
   (like trinitrochlorobenzene) that also cause this type of allergic response
   in your skin, but hopefully you'll never have to worry about them.

 * There is no known way to build up an immunity to the oil.  There is
   anecdotal evidence of people drinking teas made from poison ivy to try
   and build up an immunity.  They got sick and got rashes on their butts.

 * Not all humans are allergic to urushiol.  I think about 1 in 7  (or was
   it 1 in 15) are not allergic.  Native Americans (a.k.a. American Indians)
   tend to NOT be allergic.

 * If you think you've come into contact with poison ivy, throw everything
   in the wash when you get home.  Wash yourself with COLD WATER.  The
   oil is supposedly soluble in water.  If you use warm water, it will cause
   the pores in your skin to open up, enabling the oil to get deeper in
   your skin.

 * Tall socks and long pants are highly recommended when hiking through poison
   ivy.  In places where the ivy can grow tall, a long-sleeve shirt is also
   a good idea.

 * If you really want to hike in shorts in poison-ivy country, there is this
   goop you can put on your legs that will keep it off your skin.  I've used
   it before and didn't get a rash, but I don't know if I came into physical
   contact with poison ivy.  This goop is available at larger sporting-goods
   stores.

 * Interestingly, I've found that the best way to keep from getting
   poison ivy is to learn to recognize the plants.  After unsuccessfully
   spraying it for years (it's everywhere on our property), I can spot it
   at 100 ft.  I used to get a rash every year - sometimes 2 or three
   times in a summer.  This was simply because I didn't notice where I was
   walking or sitting.  I spend more time in our woods than ever, now, and
   I haven't picked up poison ivy in 2 years.  This co-existence works fine
   for me, but not always as well for unescorted visitors :-(. There can be
   substantial variation between plants, so learn to recognize all the
   variants of leaf formation, etc.

 * If you get a rash, you pretty much have to wait it out.  However, you
   CAN treat the symptons - namely itching.  I've found hydrocortizone
   cream to work well at reducing the itch.  I believe The FDA has recently
   increased the non-prescription strength from .5% to 1%, so make sure
   you get the stronger stuff.  If it's really bad, see your doctor. Although
   it's unlikely, you want to make sure any complications are treated
   quickly.  This is more likely to happen if you are exposed over a very
   large part of your body.

 * Each person reacts a little differently, but on me, it takes 1.5-2 days
   after exposure to notice an itch, and 2-3 weeks before the blisters have
   gone away.

 * As long as you've washed the original oil off your skin, the puss from the
   blisters should not re-infect your skin.  It's just puss, and does not
   contain urushiol.

ON GETTING RID OF THE PLANTS:

 * If you only have a small number of plants, you can physically remove them,
   but BE CAREFUL.  Use rubber gloves, and put the plants and the gloves
   in a plastic bag when done.  Wash ANYTHING that touches the plants in
   cold water.

 * I've had no success with 2,4-D.  Although the packaging says it's
   indicated for poison ivy, I've found that the leaves just turn brown and
   fall off, and then come right back.  Even after 2 or 3 applications,
   the plants keep coming back.

 * Roundup (or one of the cheaper equivalents) works much better, but you'll
   need 2 applications, 4-6 weeks apart.

 * If you do go the chemical route, I suggest getting a dye from your
   local nursery and mixing it with the Roundup so you can see where you've
   sprayed.  They call it a marker, since it 'marks' where you've sprayed.
   There are other types of markers, including foams, but I've had better
   luck with dyes.  The kind I use is dark blue, and disappears within a
   day of use.  I've usually been able to get away with 1/2 the recommended
   dose - your milage may vary.  The advantages are that you can verify
   hitting all the leaves, but you don't end up re-spraying stuff you've
   already hit.  The end result is better kill, less cost (because you use
   less Roundup), and less damage to the environment.

 * Even if you think you've killed all the plants, expect some to come back
   from the roots next year.

 * NEVER, NEVER, NEVER burn poison ivy.  The oil can be carried up with the
   smoke, and can be VERY nasty if inhaled.

Andy Goris

>* The  best  thing  I've  found  to  deal with Poison Ivy is a product
>  called "Technu Poison Oak and Ivy Cleanser" I found in the first-aid
>  section  of  the drug store.  It's a liquid soap that can be used to
>  try  and  wash  out  the  irritating  oil  before  or after the rash
>  develops  (sooner  is  better).  One caution that isn't sufficiently
>  emphasized  in  the  directions:   The  stuff  has a mild anesthetic
>  effect.   This  makes  it possible to wash/scratch the affected area
>  too  vigorously.   This  breaks  down  the  skin's  ability  to hold
>  together.   The  effect  is  like  a  second-degree burn or the skin
>  underneath  a  blister.   Very painful, and now you have to treat it
>  like  a burn, with all the attendant danger of infection, etc.  Keep
>  the washing with the Technu gentle, and you should have no problem.
>                                - PauL Drews

Actually, the best thing to use is ethanol.  Probably cheaper than
the above product, anyway. Ethanol acts as a solvent for the toxin
found in poison ivy (Toxicodendrol, I believe).

there's a blurb in the latest  Business  Week  on  the  University  of
Mississippi, in that they have figured out more about what Poison  Ivy
does to you - and have some level of immunization shot. one  per  year
is what they mentioned in the article. it's the Business Week with the
cover about women in industry.

Date: 3 Jun 92 15:15:14 GMT
v>there's a blurb in the latest  Business  Week  on  the  University  of
>Mississippi, in that they have figured out more about what Poison  Ivy
>does to you - and have some level of immunization shot. one  per  year
>is what they mentioned in the article. it's the Business Week with the
>cover about women in industry.

They've actually had the immunization for several years.  Last I knew
there was one problem.  You need to make sure you get the shot
EARLY in the year, *BEFORE* poison ivy is up and growing.  Encountering
poison ivy shortly after the shot can cause an *Extremely* nasty case
of the stuff...

From an upcoming medical journal article.

Toxicodendron species (Poison Oak, Poison Ivy, Poison Sumac)
Anacardiaceae (Cashew or Sumac family).  The genus contains
approximately 15 species found in eastern Asia, North and South America.
 The literature contains considerable nomenclatural controversy and
confusion, and most early works place ~Poison Oak,~ ~Poison Ivy~ and
~Poison Sumac~ in the genus Rhus.  In addition, medical literature
usually persists in referring to the toxic effects of these plants as
Rhus dermatitis.  Recent taxonomic studies place these toxic plants of
the Anacardiaceae in the genus Toxicodendron, while the genus Rhus
contains nontoxic plants.
Toxicodendron is generally known by the public as the most villainous
plant for its ability to produce contact dermatitis.  Although the
consequences of Toxicodendron exposure are usually well-known, most
individuals are unable to identify this genus, which is generally
characterized by shiny trofoliate (three-leaflet) leaves (Toxicodendron
vernix has 7 - 13 leaflets.)  The plant~s ability to grow either as a
shrub or as a woody opportunistic vine that commonly climbs trees and
fences confuses the identification process.  Yet more confusion persists
because of the public~s use of common names.  The most important toxic
species, Toxicodendron diversilobum (T. & G.) Greene (Poison Oak),
Toxicodendron radicans (L.) O. Kuntze (Poison Ivy) and Toxicodendron
vernix (L.) O. Kuntze (Poison Sumac), are clear and distinct species,
although they are often lumped together under the common name ~Poison
Ivy.~  Both climbing and shrub-like forms of T. radicans are common
throughout eastern North America, with similar growth forms of T.
diversilobum confined to the coast of western North America.
Toxicodendron vernix is confined to bogs and cooler areas of eastern
North America.  The effects of dermal exposure for the three species are
similar.  Depending upon the degree of sensitization, a pruritic
erythematous and vesicular rash will develop within hours or days and
may persist for up to 10 days.  A linear rash distribution is
particularly suggestive of Toxicodendron dermatitis.  The treatment is
largely symptomatic therapy focused on amelioration of the symptoms.
Little or nothing can be done to arrest the process once the exposure
has occurred.  The value of scrubbing the affected area with soap and
water will have no value unless instituted within minutes of the
exposure.  The entire plant, except the pollen, is toxic throughout the
year, even during the winter months when the branches and stems are
leafless.
Urushiol, a nonvolatile phenolic allergen that acts as a powerful
hapten, is contained within the plant~s resin canals and is released
when the tissues are injured.  Urushiol has as its dermatitis-producing
principle pentadecylacatechol.  It is estimated that 70% of the United
States population would acquire Toxicodendron  dermatitis on casual
exposure to one of the three species mentioned above.  Individuals
sensitive to Toxicodendron species may exhibit cross reactions to
Japanese lacquer, cashew nut trees, or mango.  Contact with these or
other genera in the Anacardiaceae should be avoided.  The ingestion of
Toxicodendron or herbal remedies that contain it can produce life
threatening gastroenteritis.  Even dermal exposure or inhalation of
smoke from burning plant debris containing Toxicodendron can produce
severe toxicity.  It is a common misconception that the fluid from skin
vesicles can spread the rash to other body parts or to other
individuals.  Medicinally, Toxicodendron has been used to cure eczema
and shingles as well as ringworm.  The sap, which turns black when
exposed to air, was one of the few natural sources of black lacquer dye
before the introduction of synthetic dyes.

--------*--------

Speaking of folk medicine, medicinal uses of plants...I am not a biology
major but have had an interest in this area for some time.
Why is it that only one person, James Duke of Dept of Agri., has made
a major effort to compile comprehensive lists of medicinal plants uses?
Is it possible that modern American medicine has assumptions that run
contrary to even the examination of historical and folk use?
At the least, by now, I would hope for a large d-base perhaps a CD ROM
of thousands of medicinally used plants both in U.S. and abroad, something
easily accessible for public search, such as Med Line.
Especially as world and American species are being eliminated so quickly.

---------*--------

Here's a "preventative" method for the skin...

If you think you have been exposed, wash with hot water (as hot as you can
tolerate) and Fels Naptha soap.  The soap is horrible on the skin, but it
has something which breaks up the oil of the poison.  Also, wash the
clothes in hot water immediately.  The rash from poison ivy can take up to
72 hours to appear after exposure, and is often spread on the body by
taking
showers while the oils are still on the skin.

(The oils often stay on your hands, on the palms in the creases.  You
usually
don't get poison on the palms because the skin is so tough, but you
spread it
everywhere just by touching.)

From: Ecology Center Fund
Subject: Re: poison ivy/sumack/oak
Date: 28 Apr 92 15:12:00 GMT

Look for a product in your supermarket or outdoor goods store called
Tecnu.  It's nothing short of miraculous.  It prevents AND alleviates the
rash.
Not 100 % effective, but hey, what do you want, a perfect world? :)

--------*--------

How to recognize PI/PS/PO:

POISON IVY (Toxicodendron radicans = Rhus radicans = Rhus toxicodendron)
Found in a wide range of habitats, but in the midwest often seen in
disturbed woods, roadsides, and flood plains.  Most widespread of PI,
PS, and PO.

Small, slightly woody plant, or shrubby, or vining.   LEAVES ALTERNATE
(= 1 leaf per node), TRIFOLIOLATE (=3 leaflets), with pedicel (leafstalk)
and the CENTRAL LEAFLET WITH PETIOLULE (=leaflet stalk).  The lateral
two leaflets are not distinctly stalked.  Leaflets are a variety of
shapes,
but generally ovate or obovate (roughly apple-leaf shaped).  Leaflets may
be
smooth-edged (entire), irregularly toothed, or shallowly lobed.  Leaves of
one variant form looking like small oak-leaves (but look again!). Leaves
apple-green and shiny in the spring, deep green and often dusty in the
summer, turning a glorious reddish orange in the fall.  Flowers
tiny, whitish, in clusters; fruits white berries in late summer or fall.

Closest look-alike:  Box-elder seedlings (Acer negundo), which has
OPPOSITE,
trifoliolate leaves; the lateral two leaflets are often slightly stalked.
Older box-elders generally have 5 leaflets per leaf.

POISON SUMAC (Toxicodendron vernix = Rhus vernix)   Shrub, to perhaps
15-20
ft tall, often branched from the base.  LEAVES ALTERNATE WITH 7-13
LEAFLETS,
lateral leaflets without a petiolule (leaflet stalk), TERMINAL LEAFLET
WITH A STALK.  MIDRIB OF THE LEAF WITHOUT A PAIR OF WINGS OF TISSUE THAT
RUN BETWEEN LEAFLET PAIRS.  More small, whitish berries in a long cluster.
Usually in wetlands, Maine to Minnesota, south to Texas and Florida.

Closest look-alikes: Staghorn sumac, Rhus typhina, which has clusters of
fuzzy, red fruits and toothed leaflets, and likes dry soils; Smooth sumac,
Rhus glabra, with bright red fruits and slightly toothed leaves; much
drier
soil than PS.

POISON OAK: (Toxicodendron diversiloba = Rhus diversiloba).   Reputedly
the
worst of the bunch.  Erect shrub, usually about 3-6ft tall (to 12 ft!),
bushy,
with ALTERNATE LEAVES OF THREE LEAFLETS, the LEAFLETS generally lobed
slightly
or as much as an oak leaf; CENTRAL LEAFLET STALKED.  Leaves generally
bright, shiny green above, paler below.  Fruits are small whitish berries.
Common on the west coast, esp. low places, thickets and wooded slopes.
Occasionally a 5-leafleted form is found.

Kay Klier    Biology Dept  UNI

==================================
Ron Rushing
Technology Coordinator
Stephen F. Austin State University
Nacogdoches, TX
[email-masked]
Disclaimer: "Its alright-- Its only me"

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Poison ivy
From: Ron Rushing <[email-masked]>
Date: 21 May 94 21:15:12 CST

===========

Poison Ivy
 
Contact with poison ivy can leave you with a rash and persistent
itch.  This native perennial grows throughout Virginia, in woods,
fields, and sometimes in the garden.  It grows in sun or shade,
and in wet or dry places.  Its growth habit depends on where it
is growing, resulting in a trailing ground cover, free-standing
shrub, or a vine supported by trees, shrubbery and fences.
 
All parts of the poison ivy plant contain an oil, urushiol, which
causes the allergic reaction.  Most poisoning occur during the
growing season when the presence of lush foliage increases the
chance of contact, but the dormant stems and roots of the vine
can cause winter poisoning as well.  Individuals vary in their
sensitivity to poison ivy, but repeated exposure can lead to
increased sensitivity.  It would be a good idea for everyone to
avoid this plant.
 
Poison ivy appears in many forms.  The leaflets vary in size,
glossiness, and marginal notching, but always occur in groups of
three.  If you avoid all unknown plants with leaves composed of
three leaflets, you will be playing it safe.
 
Poison ivy is difficult but not impossible to eradicate.  The
chief difficulty lies in the chances of becoming poisoned when
trying to remove it.  Wear protective clothing, including gloves,
whenever you are working near it.  Pulling and grubbing are
effective means of removal, though they necessitate close contact
and will probably need to be repeated once or twice for complete
control.  If time is not an object, the vines can be smothered by
completely covering them with black plastic for several months.
Do not mow the plants as this will spew bits and pieces of
poisonous material over the area.  When removing poison ivy, take
frequent breaks to change clothes and scrub thoroughly with a
strong soap.  Wash contaminated clothing separately.  DO NOT BURN
any plants that you physically remove.  The resulting smoke can
cause severe lung damage if inhaled.
 
Herbicides are effective and allow you to control the plant
without getting too close to it.  Several commercial products are
available.  Check labels to find one that will control poison
ivy, and apply it as directed.  Many of the herbicides for poison
ivy control contain glyphosate.  This chemical is systemic.  It
is absorbed by leaves and transferred to stems and roots, and
slowly causes the death of the entire plant.  It must be applied
to an actively growing plant for this process to take place; do
not apply it during a drought when even poison ivy will not be
growing.  Glyphosate, like most herbicides labelled for poison
ivy removal, is nonselective and will kill any other plants it
contacts.
 
Where poison ivy has grown up tree trunks or into hedges, cut the
vine at ground level.  Remove as much of the stump and roots as
you can with a hoe or by pulling.  As regrowth occurs, apply an
herbicide to the leaves, or keep pulling up the growth.  With
perseverance, and probably of few itches, poison ivy can be
controlled.
 
 ================

Ron Rushing
Technology Coordinator
Stephen F. Austin State University
Nacogdoches, TX
[email-masked]
Disclaimer: "Its alright-- Its only me"

------------------------------------------------------------------------
HERBAL REMEDIES THAT MIGHT BE TRIED FOR POISON OAK AND POISON IVY RASHES
------------------------------------------------------------------------

(1)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: [email-masked] (VShea)
Subject: Re: Poison Oak remedies
Date: 20 Jul 1994 15:55:01 -0400
  
:KEYWORDS:
mugwort
infosource: [email-masked]

One other remedy I've heard of (NOTE: I am NOT recommending this 
from personal experience--it is secondhand!!!)
  
In California, a plant called mugwort usually grows near poison oak. 
It has a pleasant aromatic scent. If you know you've been exposed to 
poison oak, supposedly picking some mugwort, crushing it up, and rubbing 
it onthe spot where you were exposed will keep the rash from developing. 
Be sure to positively ID the mugwort before you try this!

(2)
From [email-masked] Thu Oct 27 21:41:31 EDT 1994
From: [email-masked] (ROBIN F HOWARD)
Newsgroups: alt.folklore.herbs
Subject: Re: poison oak remedy??
Date: 25 Oct 1994 19:33:25 GMT

:KEYWORDS: 
sweetfern, jewelweed, witch hazel, rubbing alcohol, 
info-source: [email-masked],edu

I made a linament with, let's see, sweetfern, jewelweed, witch hazel,
rubbing alcohol...I know there were a few other things in there.  Anyway,
I zipped it all up in a blender until it was green and pulverized, let it
sit for two weeks, strain it and voila, a marvy linament.  Maybe I'll 
look up the rest of the ingreds. and post tomorrow. 

(3)
From: [email-masked] (Larry London)
Newsgroups: alt.med.allergy
Subject: Treatment for poison ivy outbreaks.
Date: 21 May 1994 16:25:20 GMT

:KEYWORDS:
goldenseal, jewelweed, aloe vera, comfrey, plantain leaves
info source: [email-masked]

Combinations of the following herbs remedies could be used:

Apply to the lesions, more or less in this order:

1) squeeze juice of fresh jewelweed plants onto lesions
and reserve remains of plants for application as a compress
[this will help reduce itching - the other herbs listed here may 
also help with this]

OPTIONAL: 2) squeeze juice of aloe vera onto lesions and reserve remains of 
             plants for compress; promotes healing

3) liberally dust powdered goldenseal on top of the above plant juices
   before they dry onto the lesions; this will promote rapid healing

4) take a wooden meat maul and mash leaves and stems of the following plants:

comfrey
OPTIONAL: plantain leaves
OPTIONAL: remains of jewelweed and aloe plants used in previous procedure

form the resulting mass into a poultice or compress and apply it on top 
of the goldenseal on the lesions

hold poultice in place with a bandage of some sort, if possible.

After four hours or so remove poultice and clean the lesions with water;
a mild non-irritating soap could be used if necessary

Repeat this entire procedure every four hours as needed until
itching is reduced and lesions begin to heal.

-----------------------------------
MISCELLANEOUS TREATMENT INFORMATION
-----------------------------------

Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
From: Greg Smith <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: poison ivy!
Date: Mon, 16 May 1994 13:22:01 GMT

>Common H2O will neutralize the poison ivy, if you rinse before
>it becomes irritated.  If you suspect that you've hit a patch
>of the stuff, just rinse off the exposed areas with a little
>warm water.

Agreed that water is good but please DON"T USE WARM WATER.  Warm water 
will open  the pores in your skin allowing the (poison ivy) oil to get 
in.  Use cold water and soap.

To give you  an idea of how the oil behaves on your skin, consider what 
happened to me.  On military exercise, I got into some poison ivy in an 
ugly way.  I knew I had about 2 hours to do something or I would 
certainly die a horrible itchy death.

I doused my arms in rubbing alcohol to remove the oil from my hands and arms.  
What I forgot to think about was that the disolved oil was running down 
my arms to my elbows where the alcohol was evaporating and redepositing 
now concentrated poison ivy oil.  Within a day I had no skin on my elbows.

No matter what you decide to do to, just remember that the oil has to be 
removed completely or neutralized in place.  There is a product called 
Tecnu that works wonders.  Telephone linemen swear by it.

BTW:  I think calamine lotion is worthless.

 Greg Smith
 AT&T Global Information Solutions
 [email-masked]

 Opinions expressed don't necessarily reflect 
 the views or policies of AT&T

Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
From: [email-masked] (Robert M. Perkins)
Subject: Re: poison ivy!
Date: Thu, 19 May 1994 21:13:23 GMT

I have a great case on my lower legs right now, and have been 
very allergic since age 7 (crawled into a poison sumac bush
wearing swimming trunks.  The stuff covered 80% of my body.)

I've tried various steroid creams:
1% hydrocortisone works okay.  .5% is useless.
"Triamcinalone" steroid cream works better- prescription.

"Hydroxine HCL 25mg" - prescription- three times a day cuts the itching
but makes you woozy, esp.if you drink a beer.  Don't know if
it is an antihistamine.  Anyone out there know?

Max strength sinutab has acetaminophen analgesic, pseudoephedrine
(sudafed?) decongestant, and chlorpheniramine maleate antihistamine.
The anithistamine and analgesic make me feel better, though tired.
Any antihistamine should do something to cut the itching.

And, wackiest symptom reliever of all:
Fill the tub w/ cool water.  add 1/2 chlorine bleach, 4 tablespoons salt.
soak for 10 minutes.  seems to help.  Came upon this after having
symptoms relieved after swimming in the ocean or in a swimming pool.

calamine lotion dries it out just a little.  95% useless.

i keep a bottle of rubbing alcohol in my car *usually* in case i
think i've been exposed.

Rob Perkins	Internet [email-masked]	
ESN 294-7632    Commercial 919-991-7632	
AIN/SSP Development, Dept 3C38
Bell Northern Research, 35 Davis Drive, RTP, NC  27709	
The opinions I opine are purely mine; BNR doesn't share them.

From: [email-masked] (Michael K. Tamada)
Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
Subject: Re: poison ivy!
Date: 17 May 1994 13:49:50 -0700

>(Jason Russell Dalton) writes:
>>Common H2O will neutralize the poison ivy, if you rinse before
>>it becomes irritated.  If you suspect that you've hit a patch
>>of the stuff, just rinse off the exposed areas with a little
>>warm water.

     I react strongly to poison oak.  So strongly that I had to go to a
doctor last time.  I eventually saw an allergist who gave me a copy of
a pamphlet (I don't know who printed it) which advised the following:

     Rinse as soon as possible  (everyone agrees on this).
     Use a LOT of COLD water.  Be aware that this water is simply
spreading the oil around; the idea is to use enough water to have it
spread off you entirely. 
     As someone else mentioned, hot water opens the pores and allows
more oil to get in.
     The pamphlet didn't mention soap one way or the other; possibly it
was referring to people caught in the field who didn't have access to
soap.  
     The doctor said that to use a little water was probably worse than
to do nothing at all, because it would simply spread the oil over more
of your skin.

--Mike Tamada
  Occidental College
  [email-masked]

Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
From: [email-masked] (Hans Fredrick Lindauer)
Subject: Re: poison ivy! (Poison Oak)
Date: Thu, 19 May 1994 00:19:52 GMT

I used to just wait until I was finished hiking, and then use Teknu, and 
shower off.  [text deleted] prescribe some Prednisone and Atarax, 
[text deleted]
The one good thing about all of this is that I found out (too late, of 
course!) that Tecnu also makes a product called Armor, which you put on 
before exposure, and which prevents the oils from soaking into your 
skin.  I bought two bottles.  The doctor yesterday told me to carry 
alcohol and some paper towels, so that if I get exposed, I can 
immediately wipe off any oils.  

Hans Lindauer
hlindaue@flute

Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
From: [email-masked] ()
Subject: Re: poison ivy!
Date: Tue, 17 May 1994 20:47:48 GMT

>>Does anyone have any good cures for poison Ivy.
>Patience and Calamine lotion.  It will dry up eventually.  A few years ago I
>had a case that got out of hand and a dr. gave me a prescription for a drug
>called prednisone.  He said it was a type of steroid.  After taking that stuff
>it is no wonder to me that the muscleheads who take steroids slam their heads
>into walls and grunt a lot.  Talk about wired.  It cleared up my poison ivy
>in about 24 hours, but I was very unhappy for the week I had to take that
>stuff.  I get poison every spring and find that once you have it, it will run
>it's course in about a week - so just don't scratch!
>                                                - Keith

Newsgroups: rec.backcountry
From: [email-masked] (Rob Samuelsen)
Subject: Re: poison ivy!
Keywords: jewelweed
Date: Tue, 24 May 1994 14:03:02 GMT

>>I am extremely sensitive to poison oak and have found an inexpensive and
>>simple method for relief/cure.
>>
>>1 - Mix up a slurry of rubbing alcohol and Comet Cleanser
>>2 - Apply it to the affected area
>>3 - Scrub it around until the skin is well scoured (skin turns pink)
>>4 - Allow skin to heal
>>5 - Don't go back to the area where you made contact with the damn
>>    stuff!
>>
>>Relief from the itching after step 3 is fairly fast (as I remember it
>>was less than a day).

The native americans used Jewelweed.  They would smash it into a pulp and 
spread the pulp over the affected area.  Jewelweed is usually found in moist, 
shaded areas and is identified by it's waxy leaves.  After a rain or heavy 
dew, water beads up on the waxy leaves and looks like jewels.

Rob Samuelsen
AT&T Global Information Solutions (Formerly NCR Corporation)
Platform Solution Services Development
Professional Services Division

Phone......(513)445-1256    FAX.......(513)445-7196
E-mail... [email-masked]

Expressed opinions don't necessarily reflect those of AT&T.

Newsgroups: alt.med.allergy
From: [email-masked] (Robert D Carver)
Subject: Poison Oak/Ivy
Date: Tue, 24 May 1994 15:56:29 GMT

I picked up a product recently that is supposed to alliviate symptoms of 
poison oak, ivy, sumac.  I haven't needed it yet so i can not verify it 
works.  It's called "Easy Ivy".  It's made by Bethrum Reasearch and 
Development and their address is P.O. Box 3436 Galveston, TX  77552.  Has 
anyone out there tried this stuff?
-- 
  [email-masked]
  Bob Carver
  Dallas, TX

From: [email-masked] (Viki Kirk)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Herbal treatment of poison ivy rashes.
Date: 25 May 1994 07:06:28 -0400

I spent a night in a poison ivy patch with ten others who are also 
sensitive to poison ivy. I was on an Outward Bound trip in the NC 
mountains. We had been hiking mountainous terrain until well into the the 
night when we came upon a nice flat camp spot -- unfortunately infested 
with the stuff. Our leaders told us to rub the juice from a fibrous plant 
on our skin -- Jewel Weed. Luckily there was plenty of it. Not one of us 
got a rash from the poison ivy!

Viki

Article 33840 of rec.gardens:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!wupost!bigfoot.wustl.edu!mulberry!nedehn
From: [email-masked] (Natasha Elizabeth Dehn)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re.Poison Ivy
Date: 22 May 1994 15:58:08 GMT
Organization: College of Arts and Sciences -- Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Lines: 22
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
NNTP-Posting-Host: mulberry.wustl.edu
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Regarding reactions and treatment:  Not everyone is lucky enough to get 
off with a rash.  A serious exposure or strong sensitivity will produce 
flu-like symptoms--fever, achyness, etc..  It's possible to be sick as a 
dog for more than a month--believe me, I know!!  I also developed 
additional spontaneous rashes on unexposed portions of my body, weeks 
after the initial outbreak--my immune system had developed a hair-trigger 
sensitivity.  I was told some of this might have been prevented had they 
started oral steroids immediately (another thing to note--not every site 
of exposure will show up at once--and I'm not talking about secondary 
exposure from touching oneself, though I got that too--all over my neck 
and face! But it was more than a week before all the streaks of blisters 
appeared on my legs, which had clearly brushed up against the plant).  
In my case the situation is now clear.  But for all of you 
as-yet-unexposed people out there--should you ever be so unlucky as to 
meet the dreaded plant, be aware that stronger reactions are possible and 
stronger treatment is available.   Don't be shy about going to see your 
doctor--just 'cause the books don't usually mention it doesn't mean you're 
imagining your illness :)

--Natasha

Newsgroups: rec.gardens
From: [email-masked] (Steve Daukas)
Subject: Re: poison ivy (help!  help!)
Date: Tue, 31 May 1994 12:18:31 GMT

: 	We have discovered, to our deep, itchy, dismay that we have
: poison ivy on our yard.  So far we seem to have seen it before anyone
: has been exposed.  Both of us react *badly* to it and we have a small 
: child who hasn't been exposed yet.  In the event that the RoundUp and 
: another more broad herbicide we've used in different spots doesn't kill
: it DEADEADEAD, what should we then try?  I'm not sure I'd like the
: blowtorch approach because of the smoke, some of the ivy is in
: with other weeds and the whole area could also catch fire.  

: 	Should we lay in a good supply of disposable HazMat Suits and
: just keep fighting??  

I am currently working on killing my bumper crop of PI.  I am using Orthro
Brush-be-gone.  The first application has had dramatic effects!  I'm
expecting to give one more application (I mix the product in a 6oz/24oz
ratio in a small spray bottle and then spray it on the leaves).

You can remove the vines by hand and then use the chemicals on the "stump"
of the vine, but this means rubber gloves et. al. and disposal of the
unwanted vines.

Now, whatever you do, DO NOT burn PI (or anything similar).  Contrary to
other posts, you do not need to be sensitive to PI to have a severe reaction
to the smoke.  Inhaled allergens are usually nothing to worry about and
usually do not cause a reaction, however PI smoke is no longer an allergen by
normal definitions.  It is VERY easy to develop analphalyxis when you breath
this in.  Death can ensue in 10 to 30 minutes if you breath enough of it
and you are very young/old or have a medical history of asthma or allergies.
Also, breathing this in will almost certainly cause you to develop a
hypersensitivity to PI and other similar plants that will stay with you the
rest of your life.

Regards,
Steve
--

From: [email-masked] (VShea)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: Poison Oak remedies
Date: 20 Jul 1994 15:55:01 -0400

Two other remedies I've heard of (NOTE: I am NOT recommending these from
personal experience--they are secondhand!!!)

1. In California, a plant called mugwort usually grows near poison oak. It
has a pleasant aromatic scent. If you know you've been exposed to poison
oak, supposedly picking some mugwort, crushing it up, and rubbing it on
the spot where you were exposed will keep the rash from developing. Be
sure to positively ID the mugwort before you try this! 

2. A woman whose daughters got terrible poison oak reactions once told me
that jumping in a chlorinated swimming pool seemed to give them a lot of
relief. She recommended taking a cool bath with a tablespoon or 2 of
chlorine bleach (no more!) in the water if you don't have access to a
swimming pool. 

Newsgroups: sci.bio.ecology
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 1994 20:36:00 EDT
Sender: "Ecological Society of America: grants, jobs,
              news" <[email-masked]>
From: "Don Bragg - D.Roberts work" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: NEED HELP ON THE ECOLOGY OF POISON IVY

Poison ivy (Rhus radicans) tends to be a disturbance species in many areas,
although it is flexible in its habitats.  One will often run into it on drier,
sandier sites (thus the connection with oak, as suggested by Ms. Findley), but
you can encounter it on better sites or in wetlands.  As I was doing habitat
classification this summer in Forest County, Wisconsin (a county vastly
dominated by very good site conditions), the only time I encountered poison ivy
was in a black ash/tagalder swamp on the edge of an open fen.  This wasn't a
few struggling, miserable plants, but a nice, healthy clump.  Poison ivy seems
to be remarkalby adaptive to various environments, so I do not know if it
would have any value as an index plant.  It also displays a number of different
growth forms, from an herb to a shrub to a vine, once again reflecting its
adaptability.

Hope this helps whoever asked the question.

Don C. Bragg
[email-masked]

From: [email-masked] (Jodie Gilmore)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Posion oak
Date: 5 Jan 1995 08:25:00 -0500

re. treating poison oak.

Supplies: good "yellow" (lye) soap (like Fels Naptha or
             Octagon). Regular soap, like Dial or Ivory, doesn't work. 
	  Anti-itch treatment. Rhouli-Gel or HydroSkin recommended.
	     Calamine lotion and relatives are virtually useless.

Use the soap to scrub off the pustules. Wash very well, and
use cool, not hot water. (To keep from getting it again, in the
future, wash with this soap right after returning from your hikes. If
you've REALLY been exposed, wipe down with alcohol after washing.)

After you've scrubbed (yes, this hurts a bit, but the pain is worth
not itching for weeks and the rash spreading), spread the anti-itch
stuff over the rash. 

Now, DON'T SCRATCH. Once a day you can wash again, and reapply the
anti-itch stuff. But intermittent scratching will only spread the rash.

If you are having a severe reaction, go to your doctor and request
cortisone treatment (I had to have this twice for poison ivy, until I
got my "prevention routine" down pat). Now that I wash with yellow
soap religiously (it is kind of hard on the complexion, so invest in
some hand lotion too), I haven't had it in 4 years--and I'ved lived in
NC and FL--there's LOTS of poison everything here (and I'm
extra-sensitive. Even *tomatos* make me itch!)

Good luck!

Jodie Gilmore
Freelance Technical Writer
Lamont, FL

From: [email-masked] (artemis)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Posion oak
Date: 5 Jan 1995 14:54:51 GMT

>use cool, not hot water. (To keep from getting it again, in the
>future, wash with this soap right after returning from your hikes. If
>you've REALLY been exposed, wipe down with alcohol after washing.)

And wash well any clothing or items you had with you.  If you are
hyper sensitive, cleaning anything you touched (doorknobs, steering
wheel, etc) will help.

>After you've scrubbed (yes, this hurts a bit, but the pain is worth
>not itching for weeks and the rash spreading), spread the anti-itch
>stuff over the rash. 

A product called IvyRest works well for me.  It's a combination of
benzacaine and cortecosteroids.

If you are having trouble sleeping at night, get in the shower and run
it as hot as you can stand.  The itching will be intense, but after a
few minutes of that, it'll stop for several hours.  There is some
debate as to whether or not such treatment will prolong recovery, but
the immediate relief is well worth it IMHO.  

>Now, DON'T SCRATCH. Once a day you can wash again, and reapply the
>anti-itch stuff. But intermittent scratching will only spread the rash.

Minor nit.  Scratching will *not* spread the rash once you've washed
the oils off you.  Scratching will increase the inflammation and can
lead to infection.

>If you are having a severe reaction, go to your doctor and request
>cortisone treatment (I had to have this twice for poison ivy, until I
>got my "prevention routine" down pat). Now that I wash with yellow
>soap religiously (it is kind of hard on the complexion, so invest in
>some hand lotion too), I haven't had it in 4 years--and I'ved lived in
>NC and FL--there's LOTS of poison everything here (and I'm
>extra-sensitive. Even *tomatos* make me itch!)

Yah, cashews (of the sumac family) will make me itch most uncomfortably
if I eat too many of them.  I'm pretty sensitive to poison ivy, but
after I learned how to identify it and to prevent the rash, I've not
had much more than minor rash, even though I am exposed to it
constantly working in the woods.

-- 
Anmar Mirza   # Chief of Tranquility  # I'm a cheap date, 
EMT-D N9ISY   # Base, Lawrence Co. IN # but an expensive pet.
Sawyer        # Somewhere out on the  # EOL
Networks Tech.# Mirza Ranch. DoD#1143 # My views, not the U's

From: what? (Charlie Johnston)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Posion oak
Date: 5 Jan 1995 19:21:03 GMT

I'm quite susceptable to poison oak/ivy/sumac, even to the point of
once having to take oral prednisone.  What works for me...

Tecnu (brand) something or other (like Ivy-B-Gone) 
   - this seems to get the urushiol off the skin.  Eckerd's has it.
Octagon bath soap
   - does it work? - I dunno.  Use it anyhow in the shower.
Hydrocortisone Ointment 
   - 0.5% or better, applied early. Don't use the cream, too moist.  
Calamine lotion 
   - doesn't do much but does help in weepy stage - I've thought
about adding some lab-grade hydrocortisone to calamine more than once.

BTW the active oil (urushiol) can be *very* persistant on clothing,
even after laundering.  I finally tracked down the vector of a
recurrent rash in a rather sensitive area to some gym shorts. 
Also had a pair of leather work gloves that had to be trashed
due to this.  Now I often wear hospital scrubs or "greens" when 
brush clearing for lightweight skin coverage.

...charlie

  

Article 14414 of misc.rural:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!psinntp!news01!pge.com!jmwd
From: [email-masked] (JMWhite)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Posion oak:  The Sure Cure
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
Date: 14 Jan 95 00:03:41 GMT
References: <[email-masked]>
Sender: [email-masked]
Organization: PG&E
Lines: 59
Nntp-Posting-Host: jmwdws01.comp.pge.com
X-Newsreader: Trumpet for Windows [Version 1.0 Rev A]

In article <[email-masked]> [email-masked] (Don Bowen) writes:
>        I seem to come in contact with posion oak this last weekend.
>Over the years there has been a lot of discussion about posion oak
>and how to treat it.  I am now llokig for suggestions on how to 
>treat the rash all over my arms. 

>        DonB

This may be a repeat for most of you but here goes anyway:

During my years as a firefighter with the USFS in CA we had frequent occasions 
to bathe in P.O.  Prevention was not an option so we focused on early 
treatment and then dealiing with the eventual rash.

Early treatment:  As most other posts have correctly stated, get the stuff off 
as soon as possible.  We used tincture of green soap (green soap w/ alcohol) 
to get rid of the oil (available at pharmacies).  Other name-brand products 
like Tecnu also work well but are more expensive.  We didn't worry much about 
whether we used hot/warm/cold water -- I tend to think the hot/cold water 
thing is overstated.  When  you're hot and sweaty (as you are likely to be if 
you are outside getting exposed to P.O.), the P.O. has likely already spread.  
However, if you were exposed on your arms only, I wouldn't get in the shower 
(hot or cold) and let the suds from cleaning your arms drip down your body.  
Getting the oil off quickly is the best thing you can do (other than staying 
indoors) to limit how nasty your rash will be.

Rash treatment:  Everybody will have a different reaction to the same level of 
exposure.  I can be exposed and not show any symptoms but my wife will get a 
rash from contacting my body.  Also, the rash may show up in places you were 
not exposed.  I think this has something to do with the lymph system -- not 
sure.  All calamine-type lotions are literally worthless.  Rhuli-gel has been 
the best topical treatment I have found.  If the rash is really nasty, you may 
want to check with a physician to see if steroids might help.  However, the 
best treatment I have found is by far the most controversial -- hot water.

I learned in the Forest Service that running hot water (as hot as you can 
tolerate) over the areas that itch will cause the itch to go away for as long 
as 12 hours and will help to speed the healing of the rash.  Now the most 
important thing to remember is that the area must have been thoroughly cleaned 
as described above.  No treatment will work if you still have the urushiol on 
your skin (or continue exposure through clothes or a pet).  Not only does the 
hot water work, it actually feels good when you are doing it.  It feels as 
though you are scratching the itch even though you aren't.

I believe that the hot water destroys the histamines that are the cause of the 
problem but I am not sure.  Anyway, I avoided this for weeks because I thought 
it was a trap by the other firefighters.  But it works (and it is the cheapest 
treatment).  Trust me.

Still am looking for interested investors for my plan to market poison oak to 
th rest of the country.  Looks good on paper:  "drought-resitant, California 
native.  Colorful shiny leaves with bright red berries.  grows in any soil 
condition, etc."  Any buyers?

James White
e-mail: [email-masked] or maybe just [email-masked]

Don't blame me, I voted for Tsongas.

Article 14494 of misc.rural:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!oncolpc23.med.unc.edu!user
From: what? (Charlie Johnston)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Posion oak
Followup-To: misc.rural
Date: 17 Jan 1995 22:00:54 GMT
Organization: Yeah, right!
Lines: 52
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <what?[email-masked]>
References: <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]>
NNTP-Posting-Host: oncolpc23.med.unc.edu

In article...(Andrew Betz) wrote:
>> In article...bonni brooks wrote:
>>  **DON'T** wash with HOT water!!!!  Wash with **TEPID**
>> water!!!  Hot water opens the pores and lets the resins from the poison
>> ivy leaves in!
> Let me second Bonni's advice.  I am allergic to poison oak...

Hmm, perhaps there is some confusion here as to the sequence of
events under discussion:  a hypothetical time line....

1. Victim engages in spurious outdoor activities unprotected by
gloves, body suit, Tecnu, and such.  Or is just too stupid to
wear long pants in the brush   (who, me?!?).... 

2. Victim contacts poison ivy/oak/sumac.  Unbeknowingly scratches
sensitive body parts, like eyes or...whatever.

3. Victim has insightful realization of probable epidermal urushiol
contact, usually from incessant itching, sudden rash, or screaming.

4. Victim, having read misc.rural diligently, rushes to the house,
wildly flinging off clothes, chanting "Tecnu-Octagon-green soap-
purple-dinosaur", races into the shower, grabs the faucets, and... 

      ****  Use TEPID WATER only to remove the oil !  ****

It is fairly resilant stuff and most regular bath soaps don't
do a great job of stripping it from the skin.  DON'T use a bath
oil or cocoa-buttery beauty bar, these will just redistribute
the urushiol over a wider area.

5. Due to the misguided efforts of the human immunologic system, small 
patches of red and inflammed skin will appear at the site of contact - 
often followed by small weepy pustulant scabby grossness reminiscent
of those flying puke things that attacked Kirk and Spock on Epsilon 5.

     **** At this point, assuming the urushiol has been washed
          off, HOT WATER gives temporary relief from the itching!  ****

And I'm talking HOT - actually painfully so is best.  I dunno how this
provides relief exactly - my guess is it overwhelms the pain receptors
with "HOT HOT HOT" signals and causes temporary short-circuiting until the
synaptic gap repair boys can get down from the cerebrospinal maintenance
center....or something.  Anyway, it works...for a while.  Just before
bed will get you a decent amount of sleep.  Just before work will
get you to about 3 pm at which point you will go bonkers with the
itching.  Just before sex....ah, you won't feel like sex anyhow.

Want some *real agony*?   Try poison oak on top of sunburn.

....charlie

Article 8514 of misc.survivalism:
Newsgroups: misc.survivalism
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-server.ncren.net!taco.cc.ncsu.edu!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!ix.netcom.com!netcom.com!breon
From: [email-masked] (breon moore)
Subject: Re: Poison Oak
Message-ID: <[email-masked]>
Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest)
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL1]
References: <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 16 Mar 1995 06:55:56 GMT
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Sender: [email-masked]

[email-masked] wrote:
:     Regarding poison oak: I've spoken to several Oregon Forest Service
: personnel, surveyors and smoke jumpers who claim to have either
: developed resistance to, or gotten relief from the weed by using
: Hyland's Poison Oak Remedy.  They take for a week before they
: expect to encounter the stuff, or as an antedote after contacting it.
: Health food stores usually carry it, 100 tablets, $5.29.

: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Article 5920 of bionet.plants:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!hearst.acc.Virginia.EDU!portal.gmu.edu!europa.chnt.gtegsc.com!news.sprintlink.net!uunet!in1.uu.net!olivea!biosci!MAIL.COIN.MISSOURI.EDU!jbrown01
From: [email-masked] ("John M. Brown")
Newsgroups: bionet.plants
Subject: Re: Poison Ivy Exudates (fwd)
Date: 29 Mar 1995 20:30:19 -0800
Organization: BIOSCI International Newsgroups for Molecular Biology
Lines: 42
Sender: [email-masked]
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <Pine.SUN.3.91.950329222804.20569B@bigcat>
NNTP-Posting-Host: net.bio.net

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 1995 11:01:29 -0600
From: Jeff Dean <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Poison Ivy Exudates

John:
        (I tried to post this back to the newsgroup since I thought
it might be of interest to a wider audience, but I am having a bit of
trouble with the link between the server and my threaded reader. Feel 
free to repost it if you can.)
	The "tar" you saw was a high molecular weight polymer of a
sesquiterpenoid catechol, commonly referred to as urushiol. The 
urushiol monomers (these are also the allergens that make you itch
after handling fresh poison oak, ivy or sumac) are polymerized in a
free radical-mediated reaction catalyzed by laccases when the sap
is exposed to oxygen. These sap components and the reaction are
common to all members of the Toxidendron family and even some of the
related Anacardaceae (eg. mango -- this is why some people feel itchy
after eating mangoes, particularly if they ingest any of the fruit 
skin). A high-quality version of this sap harvested from the 
Japanese lacquer tree (Rhus vernicifera) is the varnishing agent for
all the black lacquerware commonly seen throughout east Asia. If you
would like more info, a good general discussion of the topic was 
written by Don Snyder (1989 J. Chem Edu. 66:977-980.
	It's really a pretty interesting story.

-Jeff

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*                              *                                      *
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Article 55450 of rec.gardens:
Path: bigblue.oit.unc.edu!concert!gatech!howland.reston.ans.net!news.cac.psu.edu!news.pop.psu.edu!hudson.lm.com!godot.cc.duq.edu!ddsw1!news.kei.com!travelers.mail.cornell.edu!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!NewsWatcher!user
From: [email-masked] (Thomas Bjorkman)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: Re: POISON OAK
Date: 20 Feb 1995 14:15:15 GMT
Organization: Cornell University
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Sender: [email-masked] (Verified)
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> Steven M. Begley ([email-masked]) wrote:

> [snip] 
> : I answered someone a few weeks ago about Poison Ivy. Poison Oak is not
native 
> : to this area, however, if memory serves, Poison Ivy is Toxidendron
toxifolia, 
> : and Poison Oak is Toxidendron quecifolia. (People in the discussion about 
> : botanical names, take note: Toxideldron (self explanatory)  quercus (Oak) 
> : folia (leafed)

I'm afraid memory does not serve.
Poison oak is Toxicodendron diversilobum (T&G) Greene
Poison ivy is T. radicans (L)  Kuntze

Poison oak has also been called T. pubescens P. Mill., by Karetz and
Ghandi (Phytologia 1991), but I have not seen that name used elsewhere.

Poison ivy has some additional forms proposed by Reveal (Phytologia 1990):
Toxicodendron radicans (L.) Kuntze: 
var. pubens (Engelm. ex S. Watson) comb, nov., 
var. barkleyi (Gillis) comb. nov.,
var. negundo (E. Greene) comb.  nov.
[Basionyms includes: Rhus toxicodendron var. pubens, T. radicans ssp.
barkleyi, and T. negundo.]

It is still failry common to see the old genus Rhus used by lumpers.

-- 
Thomas Bjorkman    Dept. of Horticultural Sciences   Cornell University

From [email-masked] Apr 18 22:28:37 1995
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 1995 15:21:17 -0600 (CST)
From: Ron Rushing <[email-masked]>
To: "Lawrence F. London, Jr." <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Poison Ivy/Oak FAQ

Its getting that time of year once again-- so I thought I'd post my
information once again--  Its a compilation of info collected last year.

I tend to get into this stuff at least one GOOD! case each year.  THe
Technu product seems to wosk well for me if I apply it ASAP after exposure.
My doctor also gave me samples of a cream called Temovate (clobetasol
proplonate) 0.05% for which I am eternally grateful !

THanks again to all who responded to my questions.  I appologize if I left
your name(s) off.

=================

Subject: Re: Poison Ivy, Oak, etc.
Date: 1 Jun 92 16:30:07 GMT

* Poison  Oak,  Poison  Ivy,  and Poison Sumac do pretty much the same
  thing  to you.  There is heated debate among botanists about whether
  Poison  Oak and Poison Ivy really the same species.  Poison Sumac is
  at least closely related.

* They  hurt  you through an oil that transfers to your skin, or which
  you can inhale from the fumes of the burning plant.  The oil doesn't
  wash  off  with  plain  water.   Ordinary soap usually doesn't do it
  either.   Some people claim to be immune to the irritation from this
  oil.   A  subset  of these have rolled around in Poison Ivy to prove
  it.  A subset of these have subsequently come down with severe cases
  of the rash.  It would be prudent to avoid Poison Ivy.

* The  best  thing  I've  found  to  deal with Poison Ivy is a product
  called "Technu Poison Oak and Ivy Cleanser" I found in the first-aid
  section  of  the drug store.  It's a liquid soap that can be used to
  try  and  wash  out  the  irritating  oil  before  or after the rash
  develops  (sooner  is  better).  One caution that isn't sufficiently
  emphasized  in  the  directions:   The  stuff  has a mild anesthetic
  effect.   This  makes  it possible to wash/scratch the affected area
  too  vigorously.   This  breaks  down  the  skin's  ability  to hold
  together.   The  effect  is  like  a  second-degree burn or the skin
  underneath  a  blister.   Very painful, and now you have to treat it
  like  a burn, with all the attendant danger of infection, etc.  Keep
  the washing with the Technu gentle, and you should have no problem.

Control:
--------

1.  The darn stuff grows roots all over the place, just like lots of
    ivy.  Each section seems to be able to grow without much help from
    the momma plant, once it gets going.  That means your ordinary
    weed killers won't have as much effect on it as you would like.
    So what if it dies here, it just keeps going over there, under
    those rocks.  We've used Roundup, and the long term effect seems
    to be that the ivy backs off, waits for everything else that the
    Roundup killed to decay, and then fills up the space vacated by
    its wimpy dead friends.  Other weed killers, the kind you wouldn't
    want to have around your horses, may do better.  We don't know.

2.  You can rip it out by the roots.  You'll need equipment and a
    method.  Put on old clothes and tall rubber boots.  Put on rubber
    gloves and coveralls.  Let your beard grow a few days if you can,
    too.  Wear a hat, preferably one that protects your ears.  Put
    leather garden gloves over the rubber gloves.  Rip the ivy out,
    being careful not to get it on your face.  DON'T scratch any
    itches, DON'T slap mosquitos, DON'T try to get that little black
    fly that's starting to munch on your eyeball.  Goggles or a
    beekeeper's bonnet might be helpful, you know.  Put all the ivy in
    a gubbidge bag in a gubbidge bucket, and tie it up.  Don't touch
    the bag again without gloves.

    To undress:  Take off the garden gloves and throw them away, or
    drop them right into the washer.  NOW WASH YOUR HANDS, that is,
    wash the rubber gloves.  With the rubber gloves still on, remove
    the coveralls and the boots.  The coveralls go right into the
    washer, along with your hat.  Wash the boots.  Remove the rest of
    your clothing, and put it all in the washer.  NOW WASH YOUR HANDS
    before you touch yourself -anywhere-.  Yes, especially -there-.
    Be careful where you step, too, so you don't walk in bare feet
    where you trod with ivy boots.  Take a shower or two.  Apply
    anti-histamine or cortisone ointment, or your other Favourite Cure
    if you discover, a day or two later, that you got some ivy on you
    anyway, in spite of the precautions.

    To wash the clothes: add Amway Tri-Zyme or some other good enzyme
    powder, and soak the clothes for an hour.  Then wash them.  Then
    wash them again.

3.  Goats eat poison ivy.  Keep goats, and they will eat your ivy,
    along with lots of other stuff.

-------*--------

Here's what I've learned over the last few years from experience and
also from research at the local University Library. I've spent hours going
through dermatology journals reading up on this stuff. If anyone finds mistakes
below, or has evidence to the contrary, feel free to post or e-mail me.
I'll try and keep this up-to-date.

ON THE RASH:

 * The irritant in poison ivy, poison sumac, and poison oak is urushiol.
   Urushiol is also found in the lacquer tree, but I doubt you have one
   of those.  The rash you get is an allergic reaction.  Everything I say
   below about poison ivy should also apply to poison oak and sumac.

 * If you brush up against a healthy undamaged plant, you won't usually
   get urushiol on you.  You usually have to come in contact with a damaged
   leaf.  Almost all plants have damaged leaves - either from insects,
   weather, or from your stepping on them.

 * The toxin exists in varying concentrations in the leaves, stems, and
   roots.  I have gotten a rash from all three, although the reaction I
   got from the roots was very minor.

 * The oil is easily transferred from one place to another.  For
   example, I got some on my shoelaces once, and I kept getting poison
   ivy on my hands for a couple of months before I figured out what was
   going on :-(. Once it is on your hands, it can, and will, end up
   anywhere on you body :-O . It is also common for it to be
   picked up on the hair of your dog or horse, and then repeatedly transferred
   to you.

 * Once you get the oil on clothing, it can sit for months and still cause
   a rash upon contact with your skin.  For example,lets say you get some
   poison ivy oil on your boots, then put the boots away for the winter.
   Next spring you get out the boots and go for a walk - but not in the woods.
   A few days later, voila - your hands are breaking out from putting on
   your boots and tying the laces.

 * The first time you in your life you're exposed to urushiol, you will
   not react to it.  In other words, you get one free pass.  After that,
   your body develops an allergic reaction, which is the rash you get from
   subsequent exposures.  The literature says it is possible to lose your
   allergic response if you are not exposed for a long period of time, like
   10 years or more.  So, if you haven't gotten poison ivy in 10 years, you
   may get another free pass.  There are a number of other chemical irritants
   (like trinitrochlorobenzene) that also cause this type of allergic response
   in your skin, but hopefully you'll never have to worry about them.

 * There is no known way to build up an immunity to the oil.  There is
   anecdotal evidence of people drinking teas made from poison ivy to try
   and build up an immunity.  They got sick and got rashes on their butts.

 * Not all humans are allergic to urushiol.  I think about 1 in 7  (or was
   it 1 in 15) are not allergic.  Native Americans (a.k.a. American Indians)
   tend to NOT be allergic.

 * If you think you've come into contact with poison ivy, throw everything
   in the wash when you get home.  Wash yourself with COLD WATER.  The
   oil is supposedly soluble in water.  If you use warm water, it will cause
   the pores in your skin to open up, enabling the oil to get deeper in your
   skin.

 * Tall socks and long pants are highly recommended when hiking through poison
   ivy.  In places where the ivy can grow tall, a long-sleeve shirt is also
   a good idea.

 * If you really want to hike in shorts in poison-ivy country, there is this
   goop you can put on your legs that will keep it off your skin.  I've used
   it before and didn't get a rash, but I don't know if I came into physical
   contact with poison ivy.  This goop is available at larger sporting-goods
   stores.

 * Interestingly, I've found that the best way to keep from getting
   poison ivy is to learn to recognize the plants.  After unsuccessfully
   spraying it for years (it's everywhere on our property), I can spot it
   at 100 ft.  I used to get a rash every year - sometimes 2 or three
   times in a summer.  This was simply because I didn't notice where I was
   walking or sitting.  I spend more time in our woods than ever, now, and
   I haven't picked up poison ivy in 2 years.  This co-existence works fine
   for me, but not always as well for unescorted visitors :-(. There can be
   substantial variation between plants, so learn to recognize all the
   variants of leaf formation, etc.

 * If you get a rash, you pretty much have to wait it out.  However, you
   CAN treat the symptons - namely itching.  I've found hydrocortizone
   cream to work well at reducing the itch.  I believe The FDA has recently
   increased the non-prescription strength from .5% to 1%, so make sure
   you get the stronger stuff.  If it's really bad, see your doctor.  Although
   it's unlikely, you want to make sure any complications are treated
   quickly.  This is more likely to happen if you are exposed over a very
   large part of your body.

 * Each person reacts a little differently, but on me, it takes 1.5-2 days
   after exposure to notice an itch, and 2-3 weeks before the blisters have
   gone away.

 * As long as you've washed the original oil off your skin, the puss from the
   blisters should not re-infect your skin.  It's just puss, and does not
   contain urushiol.

ON GETTING RID OF THE PLANTS:

 * If you only have a small number of plants, you can physically remove them,
   but BE CAREFUL.  Use rubber gloves, and put the plants and the gloves
   in a plastic bag when done.  Wash ANYTHING that touches the plants in
   cold water.

 * I've had no success with 2,4-D.  Although the packaging says it's
   indicated for poison ivy, I've found that the leaves just turn brown and
   fall off, and then come right back.  Even after 2 or 3 applications,
   the plants keep coming back.

 * Roundup (or one of the cheaper equivalents) works much better, but you'll
   need 2 applications, 4-6 weeks apart.

 * If you do go the chemical route, I suggest getting a dye from your
   local nursery and mixing it with the Roundup so you can see where you've
   sprayed.  They call it a marker, since it 'marks' where you've sprayed.
   There are other types of markers, including foams, but I've had better
   luck with dyes.  The kind I use is dark blue, and disappears within a
   day of use.  I've usually been able to get away with 1/2 the recommended
   dose - your milage may vary.  The advantages are that you can verify
   hitting all the leaves, but you don't end up re-spraying stuff you've
   already hit.  The end result is better kill, less cost (because you use
   less Roundup), and less damage to the environment.

 * Even if you think you've killed all the plants, expect some to come back
   from the roots next year.

 * NEVER, NEVER, NEVER burn poison ivy.  The oil can be carried up with the
   smoke, and can be VERY nasty if inhaled.

Andy Goris

>* The  best  thing  I've  found  to  deal with Poison Ivy is a product
>  called "Technu Poison Oak and Ivy Cleanser" I found in the first-aid
>  section  of  the drug store.  It's a liquid soap that can be used to
>  try  and  wash  out  the  irritating  oil  before  or after the rash
>  develops  (sooner  is  better).  One caution that isn't sufficiently
>  emphasized  in  the  directions:   The  stuff  has a mild anesthetic
>  effect.   This  makes  it possible to wash/scratch the affected area
>  too  vigorously.   This  breaks  down  the  skin's  ability  to hold
>  together.   The  effect  is  like  a  second-degree burn or the skin
>  underneath  a  blister.   Very painful, and now you have to treat it
>  like  a burn, with all the attendant danger of infection, etc.  Keep
>  the washing with the Technu gentle, and you should have no problem.
>                                - PauL Drews

Actually, the best thing to use is ethanol.  Probably cheaper than
the above product, anyway. Ethanol acts as a solvent for the toxin
found in poison ivy (Toxicodendrol, I believe).

there's a blurb in the latest  Business  Week  on  the  University  of
Mississippi, in that they have figured out more about what Poison  Ivy
does to you - and have some level of immunization shot. one  per  year
is what they mentioned in the article. it's the Business Week with the
cover about women in industry.

Date: 3 Jun 92 15:15:14 GMT
>there's a blurb in the latest  Business  Week  on  the  University  of
>Mississippi, in that they have figured out more about what Poison  Ivy
>does to you - and have some level of immunization shot. one  per  year
>is what they mentioned in the article. it's the Business Week with the
>cover about women in industry.

They've actually had the immunization for several years.  Last I knew
there was one problem.  You need to make sure you get the shot
EARLY in the year, *BEFORE* poison ivy is up and growing.  Encountering
poison ivy shortly after the shot can cause an *Extremely* nasty case
of the stuff...

From an upcoming medical journal article.

Toxicodendron species (Poison Oak, Poison Ivy, Poison Sumac)
Anacardiaceae (Cashew or Sumac family).  The genus contains
approximately 15 species found in eastern Asia, North and South America.
 The literature contains considerable nomenclatural controversy and
confusion, and most early works place ~Poison Oak,~ ~Poison Ivy~ and
~Poison Sumac~ in the genus Rhus.  In addition, medical literature
usually persists in referring to the toxic effects of these plants as
Rhus dermatitis.  Recent taxonomic studies place these toxic plants of
the Anacardiaceae in the genus Toxicodendron, while the genus Rhus
contains nontoxic plants.
Toxicodendron is generally known by the public as the most villainous
plant for its ability to produce contact dermatitis.  Although the
consequences of Toxicodendron exposure are usually well-known, most
individuals are unable to identify this genus, which is generally
characterized by shiny trofoliate (three-leaflet) leaves (Toxicodendron
vernix has 7 - 13 leaflets.)  The plant~s ability to grow either as a
shrub or as a woody opportunistic vine that commonly climbs trees and
fences confuses the identification process.  Yet more confusion persists
because of the public~s use of common names.  The most important toxic
species, Toxicodendron diversilobum (T. & G.) Greene (Poison Oak),
Toxicodendron radicans (L.) O. Kuntze (Poison Ivy) and Toxicodendron
vernix (L.) O. Kuntze (Poison Sumac), are clear and distinct species,
although they are often lumped together under the common name ~Poison
Ivy.~  Both climbing and shrub-like forms of T. radicans are common
throughout eastern North America, with similar growth forms of T.
diversilobum confined to the coast of western North America.
Toxicodendron vernix is confined to bogs and cooler areas of eastern
North America.  The effects of dermal exposure for the three species are
similar.  Depending upon the degree of sensitization, a pruritic
erythematous and vesicular rash will develop within hours or days and
may persist for up to 10 days.  A linear rash distribution is
particularly suggestive of Toxicodendron dermatitis.  The treatment is
largely symptomatic therapy focused on amelioration of the symptoms.
Little or nothing can be done to arrest the process once the exposure
has occurred.  The value of scrubbing the affected area with soap and
water will have no value unless instituted within minutes of the
exposure.  The entire plant, except the pollen, is toxic throughout the
year, even during the winter months when the branches and stems are
leafless.
Urushiol, a nonvolatile phenolic allergen that acts as a powerful
hapten, is contained within the plant~s resin canals and is released
when the tissues are injured.  Urushiol has as its dermatitis-producing
principle pentadecylacatechol.  It is estimated that 70% of the United
States population would acquire Toxicodendron  dermatitis on casual
exposure to one of the three species mentioned above.  Individuals
sensitive to Toxicodendron species may exhibit cross reactions to
Japanese lacquer, cashew nut trees, or mango.  Contact with these or
other genera in the Anacardiaceae should be avoided.  The ingestion of
Toxicodendron or herbal remedies that contain it can produce life
threatening gastroenteritis.  Even dermal exposure or inhalation of
smoke from burning plant debris containing Toxicodendron can produce
severe toxicity.  It is a common misconception that the fluid from skin
vesicles can spread the rash to other body parts or to other
individuals.  Medicinally, Toxicodendron has been used to cure eczema
and shingles as well as ringworm.  The sap, which turns black when
exposed to air, was one of the few natural sources of black lacquer dye
before the introduction of synthetic dyes.

--------*--------

Speaking of folk medicine, medicinal uses of plants...I am not a biology
major but have had an interest in this area for some time.
Why is it that only one person, James Duke of Dept of Agri., has made
a major effort to compile comprehensive lists of medicinal plants uses?
Is it possible that modern American medicine has assumptions that run
contrary to even the examination of historical and folk use?
At the least, by now, I would hope for a large d-base perhaps a CD ROM
of thousands of medicinally used plants both in U.S. and abroad, something
easily accessible for public search, such as Med Line.
Especially as world and American species are being eliminated so quickly.

---------*--------

Here's a "preventative" method for the skin...

If you think you have been exposed, wash with hot water (as hot as you can
tolerate) and Fels Naptha soap.  The soap is horrible on the skin, but it
has something which breaks up the oil of the poison.  Also, wash the
clothes in hot water immediately.  The rash from poison ivy can take up to
72 hours to appear after exposure, and is often spread on the body by taking
showers while the oils are still on the skin.

(The oils often stay on your hands, on the palms in the creases.  You usually
don't get poison on the palms because the skin is so tough, but you spread it
everywhere just by touching.)

From: Ecology Center Fund
Subject: Re: poison ivy/sumack/oak
Date: 28 Apr 92 15:12:00 GMT

Look for a product in your supermarket or outdoor goods store called
Tecnu.  It's nothing short of miraculous.  It prevents AND alleviates the rash.
Not 100 % effective, but hey, what do you want, a perfect world? :)

--------*--------

How to recognize PI/PS/PO:

POISON IVY (Toxicodendron radicans = Rhus radicans = Rhus toxicodendron)
Found in a wide range of habitats, but in the midwest often seen in
disturbed woods, roadsides, and flood plains.  Most widespread of PI,
PS, and PO.

Small, slightly woody plant, or shrubby, or vining.   LEAVES ALTERNATE
(= 1 leaf per node), TRIFOLIOLATE (=3 leaflets), with pedicel (leafstalk)
and the CENTRAL LEAFLET WITH PETIOLULE (=leaflet stalk).  The lateral
two leaflets are not distinctly stalked.  Leaflets are a variety of shapes,
but generally ovate or obovate (roughly apple-leaf shaped).  Leaflets may be
smooth-edged (entire), irregularly toothed, or shallowly lobed.  Leaves of
one variant form looking like small oak-leaves (but look again!). Leaves
apple-green and shiny in the spring, deep green and often dusty in the
summer, turning a glorious reddish orange in the fall.  Flowers
tiny, whitish, in clusters; fruits white berries in late summer or fall.

Closest look-alike:  Box-elder seedlings (Acer negundo), which has OPPOSITE,
trifoliolate leaves; the lateral two leaflets are often slightly stalked.
Older box-elders generally have 5 leaflets per leaf.

POISON SUMAC (Toxicodendron vernix = Rhus vernix)   Shrub, to perhaps 15-20
ft tall, often branched from the base.  LEAVES ALTERNATE WITH 7-13 LEAFLETS,
lateral leaflets without a petiolule (leaflet stalk), TERMINAL LEAFLET
WITH A STALK.  MIDRIB OF THE LEAF WITHOUT A PAIR OF WINGS OF TISSUE THAT
RUN BETWEEN LEAFLET PAIRS.  More small, whitish berries in a long cluster.
Usually in wetlands, Maine to Minnesota, south to Texas and Florida.

Closest look-alikes: Staghorn sumac, Rhus typhina, which has clusters of
fuzzy, red fruits and toothed leaflets, and likes dry soils; Smooth sumac,
Rhus glabra, with bright red fruits and slightly toothed leaves; much drier
soil than PS.

POISON OAK: (Toxicodendron diversiloba = Rhus diversiloba).   Reputedly the
worst of the bunch.  Erect shrub, usually about 3-6ft tall (to 12 ft!), bushy,
with ALTERNATE LEAVES OF THREE LEAFLETS, the LEAFLETS generally lobed slightly
or as much as an oak leaf; CENTRAL LEAFLET STALKED.  Leaves generally
bright, shiny green above, paler below.  Fruits are small whitish berries.
Common on the west coast, esp. low places, thickets and wooded slopes.
Occasionally a 5-leafleted form is found.

Kay Klier    Biology Dept  UNI

                  ---   Ron Rushing ---
Technology Cordinator === Education Media Center
         Stephen F. Austin State University
       Box 6172       Nacogdoches, TX  75962
VOICE  409) 468-1424      FAX  409) 468-1573
                    [email-masked]

Article 6718 of bionet.plants:
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From: Scott Ranger <[email-masked]>
Newsgroups: bionet.plants
Subject: Re: Poison Ivy - FAQ/Info needed
Date: 5 Jun 1995 01:30:58 GMT
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I can't offer any literature help for you, but years of field experience 
has taught me a few things.

The active ingredient for the "poison" is urhusiol, a rather unvolatile 
oil contained in the sap of the plant.  The same chemical is found in all 
poisonous species of the genus Rhus (=Toxicodendron), as well as the 
Florida poison tree (Metopium toxiferum).  Since the chemical doesn't 
change, the toxicity of the plant does not vary other than with times of 
very active sap movement and plant growth.

A large number of poison oak/ivy cases occur in the early spring when not 
much more than stems are out, but the sap is rising and thus available to 
reach skin when stems are bruised.  Young leaves are more fragile and 
thus the oil is more easily tranismitted to skin.  People do not 
recognize the stems since most only look for "leaflets three, let it be."

Dogs and cats are a problem, because as they wander the woods, they 
easily pick up the oil on their coats (generally preventing their 
dermatitis) and transmit it to humans when they pet the animal.

The growing season varies with the local climate.  Here in Georgia (USA), 
the winter stick phase is very apparent in January/February and the first 
flush of leaves come as early  as late February in south GA and early 
March in north GA.  Further north it will leaf out later.

This chemical is found to some degree in just about every species in the 
Anacardiaceae, the sumac family.  Some people get dermatitis from cashew 
nuts!  

There are some drugs that claim to offer resitance.  I have no experience 
with them and cannot comment, but I'm very skeptical.  Many years of 
stomping in the fields and woods and I've only gotten poison ivy from my 
own yard doing gardening!  A watchful eye is the best prevention!

Article 7377 of bionet.plants:
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From: [email-masked] (Tim Barkley)
Newsgroups: bionet.plants
Subject: Re: poision ivy control
Date: 25 Jul 1995 03:38:56 GMT
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In-Reply-To: [email-masked]'s message of 23 Jul 1995 10:29:48 -0400

In <[email-masked]> [email-masked] writes:

> try roundup (Glyphosate) as a treatment for P.I.

Or try a 50% solution of bleach sprayed directly on the p.i. plant with a 
small spray bottle.  Works everytime.

From [email-masked] Mon Apr 20 13:08:33 1998
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 21:53:45 EST
From: FionaNyx <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Subject: poison ivy & acid

This site sells citric acid by mailorder 10 lbs for $20. 
<A HREF="http://206.107.180.50/furges/chems.htm">MID-ATLANTIC BREWING SUPPLIES
page 8</A> 
From [email-masked] Mon Apr 20 13:10:00 1998
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 21:17:57 EST
From: FionaNyx <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: poison ivy & vinegar

[email-masked] wrote:

I've caught a few itsy bitsy pieces of scattered information about
the use of concentrated vinegar for vegetation control.  <snip>
Questions: 

1.  What is 9% vinegar, how does it compare to regular apple cider
vinegar available in natural food stores, or to supermarket brand vinegar? 

F:  Regular vinegar (both apple cider and distilled white) is typically
diluted to 5% acidity.  

2.  Where can you buy 9% vinegar?  Can you purchase it locally
if you know what you're looking for, or do you have to obtain it via
mail order from a certain supplier? 

F: Stronger vinegars are available from well-stocked groceries (at least in
the Philadelphia area) for the purposes of pickling (you add the vinegar to
veggies-- you want the final combined pickle to be at 5% acidty (for
suppression of bacterial growth).  Acid percentage is listed on vinegar
labels.  

3.  Do you spray it straight, un-diluted?  

F: I'm assuming 9% vinegar means spray it straight. 

I'd guess that would limit the area you can economically spray.  Or, maybe
low-grade types of
vinegar can be purchased in 55-gallon barrels at cheap costs?

F:  This is purely theory on my part, but it seems to me that since vinegar is
DILUTED to 5% acidity, one could therefore CONCENTRATE it back UP the acidity
scale.  Presumedly you can get from 5% acidity to 10% acidity by removing half
the volume of water through either boiling or evaporation.  Any chemists care
to speak up here?  We know (again from pickling) that boiling does not destroy
the acid content of vinegar.  

Vinegar for industrial food production (think Heinz pickles) must exist and is
probably far less expensive than cheap grocery vinegar-- but how to get just
one barrel of it (and is it shipped in barrels)?

Again, you could easily ferment your own vinegar from apple juice or cider--
but the ingredients are probably more costly than just buying the vinegar
which is quite cheap by the gallon.  

Another potential cheap source of vinegar if you have a local winery is
batches of wine gone off.  (You would need to filter it to prevent sprayers
from clogging.)  A problem with this supply is that it is unreliably
available.

This brings me to mention citric acid which is sold in the powdered form as a
brewing supply to use in adjusting the acidity level of wines.  Homebrew
supply houses carry it and a phone call to one will tell you how much you need
to make a gallon of water 9% acid, and what quantities they offer at what
prices.  While not organic, it's a darn sight better than glycosulphate
(Roundup).

4. How effective is this practice?  Under what conditions does
it work well and which plants are controlled better than other
plants?  

F:  I can't answer this.

5. The Kerr Center in Poteau, OK, tried the vinegar spray approach and 
reported that the vinegar ate the sprayer; thus, the expense of replacing 
equipment parts off-set the advantages.  Any info available on suitable 
spraying equipment? 

I have a plastic pump sprayer.  I think these are available for the gallon
size.  This would seem to be the way to go.

I know these are technical questions but I'd really like to find out more 
about this practice so the info can be made available to a broader 
audience.  

Thanks! 

Steve Diver

> More seriously, though,
> 
> 9% vinegar sprayed on poison ivy leaves will kill them (especially in
> sunlight and warm weather)... they will come back from the roots, and must
> be repeatedly sprayed. If successive sprayings are made while re-sprouted
> leaves are still small, the roots will starve in a season (if leaves get
> very large, the roots recover quickly and the spraying can go on
> indefinitely).
> Jack

Hope this was helpful,  ~~Sherry