Subject: GOOD JIG DESIGN for waxing and wiring frames

From: "L. D. Blowers" <[email-masked]>
Date: 9 Dec 1996 10:34:05 GMT

Hi, I am David from Auckland.  I am looking for an improved Jig design for
waxing and wiring my frames.
Here are some guidlines:
1)  It must be of a strong design, that could even be made out of metal.
2)  Esay to transport, preferrably able to be packed away.
3)  Able to do both waxing and wiring.
4)  One of my main problems is holding down the topbar as you are pulling
up the wire, Topbar has to be clamped or supported.

I am looking for a design/plan that I can use this season.
Any ideas or direction would be greatly appreciated.   Thank you.

---

From: [email-masked] (David 'Igor' Latter)
Date: 11 Dec 1996 14:55:34 +1100

>Any ideas or direction would be greatly appreciated.   Thank you.

I hope this is what you want.
Good luck.

       David

--------------------------------------------------------------
Wire tension setup.

              ------------------LLLLLL-------------LLLLLL----------
             |                  =========================          |
             |  ++++             |                     |           |
             | +    +  [-]       |                     |           |
             | +    +            |                     |           |
             |  ++++         ---0|      frame          |0---       |
             |  wire             |                     |           |
             |  spool            |                     |           |
             |                   |                     |           |
             |                   |_____________________|           |
             |                  HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH          |
             |                                                     |
             |                                                     |
             |                                                     |
              -----------------------------------------------------

The wire spool is mounted on a large bolt and washers to enable the wire spool
to spin freely. The bit to the right  [-] is something like a block of nylon,
or whatever, I used nylon. It stops the wire spooling off the wire reel when
you cut off the frame. (You get wire tangles without it) The wire is fed in the
top hole of the frame and fed through the other holes and is terminated by 
wrapping the wire around a tack and driving it into the wood frame.
The LLLLL bits on the top of the frame are bits of angle iron screwed onto
the top side of the base with a flat side hanging over where the frame top 
board is shown. This holds it in position. The HHHHHHHHHHH at the bottom
of the frame is just a bit of wood about the same height as the frame.
These mounts must enable the top of the frame to slip under the angle iron
at the top and to go neatly down beside the wood bar at the bottom.

Ok, now you have the frame held into position with the wire terminated at
the lower right side. The bits at the frame sides drawn as:  ---0
enlarged will look like:

    =============================
    |        |
    \________/ 
    /        \      Side view  Note machined grove around the centre
    |________|                 This is where the wire must be free to
                               move from the second to the third hole.
                               This only has to be done at the left side
                               of the frame.

      ------
     /       \
    |=============================
    \   0    /
      ------

Top view. This is 180 degrees out for the left unit.
note the offset hole. This slides over a small bolt (better if welded onto a 
thin plate if you use a wood base, or the bold moves in the wood. Screw the 
plate down well.) You then have a sort of cam. 
The one on the other side (right side) is the mirror image! (it does not have
to have the grove cut in it)
These cams are used to flex the end side of the frame in (dont over do it
or you will bust the frame)
You now pull the wire up firmly by hand, turn it around a tack half driven in
above the top left hole, then hammer the tack in and flex the wire off. The 
wire snaps off under the tack head, which does not leave a sharp wire to jab
your fingers! Then when you release the cams, the wire will be very firm.
Notes: If you over tighten the wire, it will cut the frames, I use a bold
ground down as a punch to make a 5mm 45 degree hollow at each hole at the side
of the frame, this helps to stop the wire cutting too deep. You can use metal
inserts or even a staple next to the hole postitioned where the wire runs over
it.
Also note, if the outside circle that presses into the wood is too smooth it
will slip when you try to tie off the wire, releasing the wire tension.
If this happens, use a grinder to rough it up a little.
The cams are about 30 to 40 mm , but the size is not critical, just the cam 
action.
I'll have to go home and properly measure mine if more details are needed.

------------------

To melt the wire into the foundation sheet, I have a thick (40mm) block of
wood (must be flat) that is the right size for the frame to fit over it.
A wax sheet is inserted into the cut at the top of the frame and held against 
the wire. The fame and wax sheet are slid over the wood block, with the wax 
down, under the wires!. Then using this:

  ====================================[T]==
   I        I        I        I          I

The ===== is a wooden board a bit longer than the frames
The [T] is a heavy push button switch
The  I are nails hammered into the board at the same height.

Wires are soldered to the end two nails, one going via the switch and both
going to a 6 volt transformer that is able to put out at least 3 or 4 amps.

This tool is gently pressed on the wire, the switch pressed, the wire heats
and slowly melts the wax, you release the switch as soon as the wire moves into
the wax. You may hit the switch again to sink it in further... Note, this will 
only take a few seconds! Dont over do it or you will melt the wax in half.
Hold the bar steady untill the wax sets a bit, which will only be a few seconds
if you didnt overheat it. Dont use anything over 6 volts....it's too quick!

I hope this helps a few people.... it took long enough to type!

                   David.

---

From: [email-masked] (David 'Igor' Latter)
Date: 11 Dec 1996 16:39:39 +1100

>Any ideas or direction would be greatly appreciated.   Thank you.

=======================================
Something happened to my post and it seems to have gone...
Oh well, try again...

This is the setup that I use for my frames, it is a bit hard with Ascii art
to do a good diagram, but I hope it can be understood.

I hope this helps a few people.... it took long enough to type!
There are lots of different versions of this around, but there should be
enough detail to enable you to build one.
If enough people want more details, I'll measure mine and repost this.

Enjoy!

           David

=======================================

Wire tension setup.

      ------
     /       \

------------------