Subject: Beeswax bleaching

From: herd <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 13:54:59 -0500

I have about 40 lbs of beeswax in a double-boiler type of a candle dipping 
tank.  The inner wax container is made from a 5 gallon maple syrup-type steel 
can wit the top removed.  Over a period of about six months I have been 
dipping candles and adding clean yellow wax (100+ pounds), but the wax 
bath is gradually darkening to a greenish color.  I am in the process of 
switching over to a stainless-steel inner container, since I suspect that the 
molten wax reacts with the steel container in some way, causing discoloration.

My question is twofold:  first, are there other mechanisms that anybody is 
aware of that could lead to gradual darkening of the wax, such as extended 
periods of heating, having stray bundles of wicking continuously submerged at 
the bottom of the tank, or other causes?   Secondly, I will be starting with a 
'clean' inventory in my new stainless-steel dipping tank, but I would still like 
use the 40 pounds of dark wax I have in the old tank.  I can either add it in 
small proportions back to my main tank (i.e. dilute it), or try to 'bleach' it 
separately to restore it to its lighter yellow color.  If anyone has any good 
suggestions for a small-scale bleaching process (for wax darkened by contact 
with steel, e.g.), I would appreciate hearing about them.  I have tried a 
hydrogen-peroxide process (from a recent beekeeping mag) with very limited 
success.

Kenneth G. Herd
Niskayuna, NY

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From: [email-masked] (Mark Jensen)
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:04:33 GMT

My bees tell me herd <[email-masked]> wrote:

  If anyone has any good 
>hydrogen-peroxide process (from a recent beekeeping mag) with very limited 

I have had some success with EDTA (ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid, I think).
It removes some of the metals which are the main culprits in darkening of the
wax. I have managed to get some batches of brown wax to a dark orange, but it is
very hard to get it any lighter. Commercially it is done with pressure filtering
through very fine filter material. The EDTA is added to wax over boiling water
and allowed to boil for a while. Good luck.
--
Mark Jensen  Double J Apiaries   [email-masked]
Los Altos Hills   California    fax 415 941-3488

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From: "The Honey Farm" <[email-masked]>
Date: 8 Dec 1996 05:52:48 GMT

I don't know if it'll help, but there was an article in Bee Culture this
fall (August Issue) on candle making.  The author used hydrogen peroxide to
bleach the wax.  He was using 1-2 oz of peroxide for each pound of wax.

You melt the wax, then add the peroxide.  Stir the mixture, and in a few
minutes, it will start bubbling.  That is the peroxide going to work.  You
might want to wear gloves to reduce steam burns on your hands.  When the
foaming stops, the peroxide is gone and the wax is lighter (about 30-60
minutes). You must keep stirring for about 30 seconds every 5 minutes after
the foaming starts to let the peroxide work on the whole batch of wax.

Good luck

Dennis

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From: [email-masked] (Mark Jensen)
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 05:09:32 GMT

My bees tell me "The Honey Farm" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>You must keep stirring for about 30 seconds every 5 minutes after

Actually, the foaming stirs the wax more than adequately. Physical stirring is
unnecessary besides being very unpleasant and somewhat dangerous.
--
Mark Jensen  Double J Apiaries   [email-masked]
Los Altos Hills   California    fax 415 941-3488