has a pinhole marked Cal, I'm guessing this is for calibration. On installation the furnacemen checked it to ensure it coincided with the furnace. I have the temperature set for 23 Celsius. It cuts in at 21. (Each degree Celsius is about 1.5 degrees F.) I wonder about its readings because in just moments of heating the thermostat is showing 21, 25, 21, 25, 23 and then cuts out. There's no heat vents there, it's down a hallway, so no drafts really. There's no way it's reached 25 degrees in the hall. I tried taping around the thermostat to eliminate drafts but no change. When I've cooled the house down while away or at night it seems to keep doing this, cutting in & out, in & out, until it reaches the 23 degree temperature range then seems to settle down, not cutting in as often. When I'm trying to raise the temperature after cooling the house I'd like it just to cut in and stay on for awhile instead of this in & out business that can go on for an hour or more. I reposted all your answer for other's info. Usually I just quote a few lines but I thought many northerners would like the info. I've printed out your message. Thanks again. ... OFFLINE 1.51 " * If it ain't broke, fix it until it is." --- Maximus/2 2.02 * Origin: William's, Vernon B.C. (604)549-2409 24hrs free access (1:353/385) @PATH: 353/385 680 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (483) Tue 20 Dec 94 22:28 By: Larry Besel To: Karin Brewer Re: Amaryllis Bulbs ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @PID: BWPRO 3.05 [Eval] @MSGID: 1:3672/0.0 2ef989f0 @TID: FastEcho 1.40 7102 -=> Quoting Dan Sicina to Karin Brewer <=- DS> Would anyone know how to keep amaryllis bulbs so that they may be DS> used again next christmas. They are done flowering for this christmas. DS> Now what? Thanks Cut the bloom stalk off just above the bulb. Keep it watered, put it in a place where it will get sun, so the leaves can give nourishment to the bulb. You can put it outside after danger of frost has passed. Keep watering it until the fall. In the early fall (before it frosts) let the soil dry out. After the soil has dried out, cut off the leaves about 3/4 of an inch from the bulb and put Amaryllis container in a cool dark space for a minimum of 6 weeks. About 6 weeks before you want it to bloom, remove it from the cool dark area, place it a sunny location and begin watering it. If all goes well you will have another beautiful bloom around Christmas. P.S. There is no need to transplant the bulb into a larger container until the bulb is literally pushing it self out of it's original container (it may not bloom the year it is transplanted to a larger container, but will be fine the following year). ... I call things as I see them; If I didn't see them, I make them up! --- Blue Wave/Pro v2.12 [NR] * Origin: Patriot BBS * (706) 695-8757 * Chatsworth, GA (1:3672/0) @PATH: 3672/0 133/1613 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (489) Thu 22 Dec 94 0:00 By: Doreen Clancy To: Bruce Bosdet Re: Monster Tomato Caterpill ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @MSGID: 1:353/385.0 2ef8c18c On 12-17-94 Bruce Bosdet wrote to *ALL*... BB> The tomato patch of a friend of mine was visited by MONSTER TOMATO BB> CATERPILLERS!!! The caterpillers were described as being about BB> 4 to 5 inches long, hairless, as thick as your thumb (or BB> thicker), and the exact colour of the tomato vine. The BB> caterpillers apparently ate leaves and the tops of the fruit. BB> Only 2 caterpillers resulted in extensive devastation! Hi Bruce. I'm in Vernon, B.C., near Kamloops. Laughing because I too saw a tomato hornworm for the first time this year and screamed! I'd thought it was actually a branch of the plant then saw the eyes. Gardened here over 15 years and never saw one before. Neighbors sure laughed. Last spring I noticed an unusual number of butterflies I hadn't seen before. Called the butterfly exhibit and they said that's what they'd be. Later saw a few hornworms. I just picked them off with a stick and threw them far away. Course I do live on a mountainside with lots of bush around. The book I have that shows me our local garden pests the best is the Ortho book, "All About Vegetables". Got it at a nursery. It's not hard cover. Cost about $15, got it on sale. It says handpicking works for small numbers of caterpillars or for large individuals such as the tomato hornworm. Or spray with the biological control Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), a bacterial disease of caterpillars. Other controls are Sevin, diazinon, pyrethrin, rotenone, or malathion. I don't use sprays so find the best thing I do is that daily or every-other-day garden patrol. It's good for my soul & good for my garden. See what's happening before it gets out of hand. BTW, I did think it was quite neat the way the bug could totally and minutely remove only the outer skin of the tomato, without damaging at all the fruit underneath. May admire its skill but still won't touch one! ... OFFLINE 1.51 --- Maximus/2 2.02 * Origin: William's, Vernon B.C. (604)549-2409 24hrs free access (1:353/385) @PATH: 353/385 680 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (500) Mon 19 Dec 94 18:21 By: Mark Rogers To: Alan Hess Re: Paw-paw ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @MSGID: 1:207/225@fidonet.org 65ae6258 |-----------------|Alan Hess wrote: AH>Has anyone grown paw-paws? How large do the trees/bushes get? I kno AH>needed for pollination, so, if they're too large, I don't have space AH>them. *adh* AH>--- msgedsq 2.1 AH> * Origin: Nerve Center: Source of the SPINAL_INJURY echo! (1:261/100 |-------------------------------------| Alan, I too am thinking of growing paw-paws (custard apple). I have read they do need a partner for pollination. They grow about thiry feet tall. Have you ever tasted a fruit from one ?? I havn't but for some reason I still want to grow them. Would you know off-hand where I may get the friut from?? TTYL... .\\ark Rogers rspmro@lluvm.BITNET Highland CA. rogersm1@iia.org ... I had a chicken once. Tasted a lot like cat. --- * TLX v4.00 * * RM 1.3 00260 * --- QScan v1.131b / 01-0417 * Origin: Prime Connection - Riverside,CA - 909.274.9637*USR/DS (1:207/225) @PATH: 207/225 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (509) Fri 23 Dec 94 19:29 By: Sheryl Moore To: Alan Chong Re: Cleaning Hardwood Floors ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @MSGID: 1:147/180@fidonet.org cb950425 special air filters will help,i used to just grab the dust mop and pledge,and spray as needed..on the mop.are they finished(polyurethene) or unfinished and waxed? --- FidoPCB v1.5 beta-'j' * Origin: MEDICUS BBS in Edmond, OK 405-478-8250 (1:147/180) @PATH: 147/180 20 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (510) Fri 23 Dec 94 23:40 By: Doug Swanson To: Lee Follweiler Re: Stinky Plant ? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @MSGID: 1:261/1023.0 2efb5fde Can you describe it? Is it a shrub? or Perennial? If it is an evergreen shrub, evergreen barberry has yellow flowers that smell like carrion. Is it throny with spiny leaves? --- Maximus/2 2.01wb * Origin: King Solomon's Mine Balto MD (410)494-1533 (1:261/1023) @PATH: 261/1023 396/1 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (511) Fri 23 Dec 94 23:42 By: Doug Swanson To: John Kelly Re: Ginseng ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @MSGID: 1:261/1023.0 2efb6068 @REPLY: 1:141/1020.0 2ef7ca8e I have never seen genseng seeds, but I have seen a few mail order catalogs that sell roots for planting. Genseng requires a very organic,moist, acidic soil that is undisturbed by anything human. That's why you didn't see it growing very many places even before people started ingesting it. If you have a moist north slope of an Appalachian you might get one to grow. I have tried with only modest success in an urban area. Good luck. Try the Park seed catalog BTW. --- Maximus/2 2.01wb * Origin: King Solomon's Mine Balto MD (410)494-1533 (1:261/1023) @PATH: 261/1023 396/1 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (515) Fri 23 Dec 94 19:54 By: Wes Leatherock To: Dennis Garringer Re: Re: Thermostat suggestion ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @MSGID: 1:147/4000.0 2efb713e @PID: BWRA 3.02 [Reg] -=> Quoting Dennis Garringer to Wes Leatherock <=- DG> In a message to Dennis Garringer <12-16-94 21:33> Wes Leatherock DG> wrote: WL> What kind of thermostat do you have? Many years ago WL> thermostats were strictly metallic contacts and you could screw WL> the adjusting DG> It's a RobertShaw, no metallic contacts or mercury, its all DG> electronic. Has a digital clock and display, just have to keep a good DG> battery in it so it dosnt forget what it is supposed to do. Now I DG> need to get one of those vandel covers to keep a pesky teenager from DG> trying to burn up the house by using the over-ride to heat things up. Thanks very much. I'll look for one. However, I don't understand the override; don't you just move it up or down to the temperature you want to set? --- CyberLINK v2.5g * Origin: CYBERNATION (1:147/4000) @PATH: 147/4000 48 3006 1032 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (516) Fri 23 Dec 94 19:54 By: Wes Leatherock To: Gary Faucett Re: Re: windows problem ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @MSGID: 1:147/4000.0 2efb713f @PID: BWRA 3.02 [Reg] -=> Quoting Kent Anderson to Gary Faucett <=- GF> I have a cracked window in my house, and I was wondering how hard it GF> would be to replace it myself. The frame around the window is aluminum GF> not wood and I cannot tell how to get the window out. Any ideas? KA> If it's like most aluminum windows, there is a plastic gasket that KA> substutes for putty. Behind that, when you remove it, you should find KA> some little wire clips holding the glass. There may be a very small KA> bead of putty over these. If so, you'll have to remove it to get to KA> the clips. These should slip out easily with a screwdriver or needle KA> nose pliers. Just be sure you get the _exact_ size of glass for KA> replacement. KA> If it's been there a few years, you can anticipate that that plastic KA> gasket has gotten brittle, and will break when you remove it. Check KA> with your hardware store to be certain an exact replacement is KA> available. I have replaced several of mine for one reason or another. These are double-hung aluminum windows. They come out and go in just like Kent said, except that none of my have the little wire clips holding the glass. The glass is held entirely by the plastic gasket, which is shaped sort of like a quarter round. The plastic gasket does get brittle over time. I have always gotten my glass at a glass company, and they are usually very helpful in explaining what you need to do and they will probably have the plastic pieces that hold the glass in. --- CyberLINK v2.5g * Origin: CYBERNATION (1:147/4000) @PATH: 147/4000 48 3006 1032 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (519) Fri 23 Dec 94 7:52 By: Nolan Chamczuk To: Lee Follweiler Re: Re: Stinky Plant ? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- On Dec. 20th while holding his nose Lee wrote; LF> but it has yellow bell like flowers and stinks like a skunk. You can LF> smell LF> this with the window open. I LF> would have ripped it out of the ground when I first found the source of LF> the skunk like smell, but curiosity got the better of me. I waited LF> until it bloomed. Now it's to late, the wife saw it and likes it. What LF> the heck is it ? It's not a good description, but that's my story and LF> I'm sticking to it. He he ha ha this is great! I can so easily see my wife doing the same thing I have no clue what the plant is, other than maybe skunk cabage, but thats a shot in the dark. Still a good story... Good luck with it.. TTYL.... Nolan * Q-Blue 1.0 [NR] * --- DlgQWK v0.71a/PDQMail v2.54 * Origin: Amiga Devil BBS, Edmonton AB, Supra 28.8 (1:342/53) @PATH: 342/53 61 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (522) Fri 23 Dec 94 20:12 By: Alan Hess To: Nancy Griffin Re: Re: MONSTER TOMATO CATERPILLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @MSGID: 1:261/1000 4c429859 In a missive of Nancy Griffin (1:142/983) writes to Bruce Bosdet: NG> Those critters are known as the Tomato Caterpillers/Worm. Darn shame Momma Nature doesn't have one of those for poison ivy and kudzu. *adh* --- msgedsq 2.1 * Origin: Nerve Center: Source of the SPINAL_INJURY echo! (1:261/1000) @PATH: 261/1000 1023 396/1 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (526) Tue 20 Dec 94 8:31 By: T.E. Austin To: Gary Faucett Re: windows problem ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @MSGID: 1:3641/207 10089ba8 @PID: VFIDO 6.10.05 Re: windows problem > not wood and I cannot tell how to get the window out. Any ideas? Look around for the file killdir.zip on a local BBS. It is shareware so you can use it no prob. Type Killdir and the name of your windows directory (usually Windows or Win31) and you will get that window out. Be sure to correct your autoexec.bat of you that should read or you will keep getting a bad command or file name message. Hope that helps! --- VFIDO 6.10.05 * Origin: Shark's Bar & Grill (1:3641/207) @PATH: 3641/207 1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (530) Wed 21 Dec 94 9:55 By: Robert Goyette To: Bruce Bosdet Re: MONSTER TOMATO CATERPILLE ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @MSGID: 1:102/128.0 87825763 @TID: WILDMAIL!/WC v4.11 92-0077 BB+The tomato patch of a friend of mine was visited by MONSTER TOMATO +CATERPILLERS!!! The caterpillers were described as being about +4 to 5 inches long, hairless, as thick as your thumb (or thicker), and the Sounds like tomato hornworm to me, although I've never seen them quite that big. In any event, they're no big deal. Simply remove and destroy them, which only takes a couple of minutes. They won't be back until next season, if then (I haven't had a recurrence in the last 10 years, and I raise a lot of tomatoes). This is the sort of thing that illustrates the old adage that any garden benefits from exposure to the shadow of the gardener at least once each day. In other words, Eternal Vigilance! bsb >< --- * SLMR 2.1a * rgoyette@ursabbs.com (Robert Goyette) --- WILDMAIL!/WC v4.11 * Origin: URSA MAJOR - Manhattan Beach, Ca. - (310)545-5611 (1:102/128.0) @PATH: 102/128 138 2 209/720 270/101 396/1 3615/50 3641/1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (534) Sat 24 Dec 94 18:55 By: Karin Brewer To: Larry Besel Re: Amaryllis Bulbs ---------------------------------------------------------------------- @MSGID: 1:387/403 87823574 -> -=> Quoting Dan Sicina to Karin Brewer <=- -> -> DS> Would anyone know how to keep amaryllis bulbs so that they may b -> DS> used again next christmas. They are done flowering for this chri -> DS> Now what? Thanks -> -> Cut the bloom stalk off just above the bulb. Keep it watered, put i -> a place where it will get sun, so the leaves can give nourishment to -> bulb. You can put it outside after danger of frost has passed. Kee [much deleted] Thank you! I've been getting the itch to try my hand with an amaryllis again. Or, a clivia, which is something else I've always admired in other people's homes. Karin --- WM v3.11/91-0010 * Origin: FliegWeg BBS - Home of VitaCal - (210) 496-6550 (1:387/403) @PATH: 387/403 800 31 3615/50 3641/1