Subject: Re: organic gardening HELP! (really: tomatoes)

From: [email-masked] (Karen Kolling)
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 1994 21:43:21 GMT

In article <[email-masked]> [email-masked] (Karey Coverstone) writes:
>
>I was wondering if anyone had some good ideas for staking tomatoe
>s.  Last year I trained them up a string, but they got too big and
>unruly.  Any suggestions?

For normal varieties (Ace, Early Girl, etc.) the circular wire cages
work well.  For small varieties, even the fold flat for storage
rectangular cages, possibly stacked work okay.  For heirlooms like
Brandwine, etc. you need to get into serious structural stuff.
I have not solved the latter problem, but I'm going to try a frame
with posts buried 2-3 feet in the ground this year.

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From: Libby Goldstein <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 1994 13:52:33 -0800 (PST)

If you want to use string again next season, make sure to remove
all of the side shoots. That will stop the "unruly". I tie mine to
a trellis that supports my Sugar Snaps in the spring. As long as I
keep tying the shoots to the net, like weekly or whenever I notice
stragglers, the method does really well.

Otherwise you could try using fairly heavy stakes, an inch or so
in diameter and 7-8ft tall driven 2ft into the ground, but you'd
still have to pinch out the side-shoots/

Libby

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From: [email-masked] (Bud Kona)
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 1995 07:21:00 GMT

Karey Coverstone ([email-masked]) wrote:

: I was wondering if anyone had some good ideas for staking tomatoe
: s.  Last year I trained them up a string, but they got too big and
: unruly.  Any suggestions?

Karey, I've had excellent results with a simple method.  Either when planting
or when plants start to gain a little height, insert a 4-5 ft metal stake (green
ones available all over) and use stretchy green gardening tape to tie base of
plant to stake.  As plants get bigger, tie as needed.  I thin my plants every
1-3 weeks as needed, and this seems to be key in preventing rambling tomatoes
in my small garden.  I nip off many of the lower, non-producing branches and
also, some of the "middle" future producting branches.  I still get plenty of
tomatoes this way.  Actually, I nip off a lot of the extra upward branches.  The
plants also get more air and light this way.  Another helpful hint-- put aluminum foil around plant base when planting so 1 inch is below soil and 1-2 inches
above soil- this prevents cutworm, etc., damage.  I strongly recommend getting
brave and mean and nipping off branches. Good luck.  P.S. This is my brother's
computer, I am visiting and just happened to be checking out this amazing systemand saw gardening, your question and couldn't resist answering your question.
I live near Seattle, WA.  Nancy