Subject: Re: Pot maker

From: [email-masked] (Bolduc Diane)
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 1995 16:23:08 GMT

Last year I wanted, like you, to buy that pot maker but couldn't
find it anywhere. Instead, I wrapped a newspaper band on a glass (2,5") and
fold the bottom wich I fixed with a non-toxic liquid glue as well as the 
side. Then I pressed the bottom on a hard surface. It standed buy I didn't
moved them eiher. The pots never broke down. I puted them in a plastic
tray till I planted them. I guess you can use tape to fix the bottom like 
someone said.

	Diane

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 16:58:12 GMT

How big a tree are we talking about here, Suzanne?   It may very
well be impossible to move if it requires heavy equipment -- 
additionally many large trees do not survive transplantation.
However, if it is small enough that you and some friends could
ditch it out with a baby backhoe, you might want to try.

Would it be possible to alter the remodeling plans?

Chris Owens

>
>We just bought a house, and will remodel it.  Trouble is, there's a tree
>in the way, and tree movers are all saying that they can't do it, because
>there's not enough room to bring heavy equipment into the back yard.
>
>Before I destroy a perfectly nice tree, I thought I'd turn to the net.
>
>Is there anyone you folks know that can help me, or at least give me an
>estimate?
>
>If this is the wrong newsgroup, sorry, and please redirect me!  Thanks
>in advance, and please respond by e-mail, if you wouldn't mind.
>
>
>Suzanne

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 16:58:58 GMT

Boiling water kills weeds just fine . . . and anything else with which
it comes in contact.  Try laying landscape cloth -- it is porous --
with little holes cut for the groundcover plants.  This should help
with the weed problem.

Chris Owens

> I attended a talk recently given by a local naturalist.  One piece of
> advice he had for killing weeds was to pour boiling water on the area
> -- to kill the seeds below the first couple of inches.  He says he
> has done this for years and it has worked well for him.  He sits
> outside on a chair reading the paper while waiting for his Coleman
> stove to boil it up.  Any comments?  Will this kill too much other
> beneficial stuff?
>
> We have a largeish (900sf) specimen planting area in our front yard
> that we want to not use rocks or bark on.  We've tried bark (at our
> landscaper's suggestion), but it all blows away in our exposed and
> windy location.  We already have 50 tons of rock on our lot (1/2
> acre) and would rather not add more.  We'd rather use low ground
> covers in this area, but not if it means we'll be fighting thousands
> of weeds until the groundcover becomes established.
>

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:00:35 GMT

Welcome!

First things first.  Take a shovel, go out into the yard where you
plan on having your garden, and dig up a shovelful of soil.  If
what you get is dark brown / black, crumbly, damp soil, you have
hit paydirt. All you will really need to do is till and plant.

If the soil is dense, compact, or clayey -- which is very likely
in SC -- or sandy, you will need to amend it with organic 
matter.  Shredded newspaper, finely shredded leaves / mulch, 
and peat moss all work well for this.  Add some cow manure for 
fertilizer.  Dig it down to 18 inches, add your amendments on 
top, and turn it all over several times to break up the clods, 
and mix in the amendments.

If the soil is wet, you will need to make a decision, as many
plants don't like to grow in standing water / very wet soil.
You can:  1)  Construct a raised bed to lift the level of the
soil, using lots of amendments to improve drainage.  You
should make the raised bed at least 18 inches high in this
case; 2) Elect to grow only plants that like wet soil -- there 
are quite a few beautiful ones out there;  3) Improve the 
general drainiage of your yard by constructing a french 
ditch and drywell system at the far end, and planting water-
sucking plants over it.  This one is certainly the most work.

In any case, you need to get the soil turned now, so that
it can sit for at least two weeks before you turn it again
for planting.  Unless you are planning on growing a very
pH sensitive plant, testing the soil pH is usually not needed.
If you want to have it done, your county extension office
can test a sample of your soil for pH, and a lot of other
things for around $ 10 - 15.

Good luck.

Chris Owens

>	After having moved into my new house, and since I've always loved
>Gardens because my Grandparents exposed me to them at a young age, I'd
>like to start a garden this year. I have some space laid out in the back yard
>for it, but after that I'm at a loss for what to do. 
>
>	The soil tends to be moist, as their are wetlands behind the yard.
>I know I need to till/hoe it, and the only things that come to mind are
>Cow Manure, Topsoil, and maybe some Lime and Fertilizer. I would also
>like to use some type of border or seperaotor for the space I'm setting 
>aside. This year I will start small, like 10 x 20 feet or something.
>I live near Charleston S.C., and the weather here is warming up nicely.
>
>	I've read about getting the soil a certain Ph, how do I do that?
>Any help or FAQ pointers would be appreciated.
>Thanks, John

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:01:27 GMT

This is a two-prong, sure-fire attack, organic, and has never 
failed for me:

1)  Make sure your kitchen is really clean, and keep it that 
way.  This means dishes are washed as soon as the meal 
is over, all food is in sealed containers, and all spills are
wiped up right away.

2)  Mix one cup boric acid and one cup sugar with one
cup hot water.  Let dry.  Using your blender, break up
into fine powder.

Fill a turkey baster or ear syringe, and blow into any
hole that ants are coming out of.  Lay little piles in the 
corners of any cupboards that have ants in them.  Leave a 
jar with holes poked in the lid out where the ants are most 
of the time.  They will be attracted to the sugar, take the
glop back to the nest, and self destruct.

It is very important that you keep this stuff away from pets
and children, as it is toxic -- in fairly large doses -- to 
humans, too.

Good luck.

Chris Owens

>I'm sure I probably just missed a lively discussion on taking care of these busy
>little beavers, but can anyone point me to reliable ways to rid ourselves of
>sugar ants.  
>
>I've plugged up the main entrance, but this morning they were crawling through
>the walls.  
>
>Organic methods are prefered, but if i'm going to have to get under the house, I
>only want to do it once, at which point all methods are acceptable.
>
>thanks, and closterphobically yours
>
>rick

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:01:57 GMT

They are a wonderful addition to your compost pile and
a great soil amendment.

Chris Owens

>Are coffee grounds good for anything in the garden?

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:02:43 GMT

The best, easiest way to be sure is to call your county extension
office and ask.

Chris Owens

>I see others referring to the fact that they are in "Zone 5", "Zone 7", etc.
> 
>I don't know where to look it up, so would someone please tell me which
>"Zone" I am in...
> 
>I am in the city of Shreveport, which is in the NorthWestern corner
>of Louisiana. I am 8 miles from the Texas state line and 30 miles
>from the Arkansas state line.
> 
>Thanks,
> 
>    Les

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:03:17 GMT

The cutworms are eating the roots, and the stem at the soil
line.  The best cure for cutworms is an application of
beneficial nematodes and Bt.  You can get both from
Gardens Alive!, or possibly your local nursery.

Good luck.

Chris Owens

>
>
>I've been planting some delphihiums from 6 packs and they are cut by
>cutworms and not eaten. Why do these cutworms do that? What value do
>they get out of doing it. They don't eat the flower.What's the best
>way to get rid of them.

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:03:57 GMT

Are you talking about elephant garlic, or the bulbs for a 
decorative foilage plant called elephant ear?  In either case, 
the answer about planting is the same:  Planting depth is
three times the size of the bulb, pointy end up.  Elephant
garlic is hardy.  Elephant ear isn't

Good luck.

Chris Owens

>
>My wife bought some elephant bulbs.  Rather large things, think they grow
>into elephant plants (pretty astute, heh?).
>Q1: Which end is up?
>Q2: How deep?

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:04:31 GMT

These wonderful insects will eat several times their weight
in insect pests every day.  Plus, they have great 
entertainment value.  He who kills a preying mantis
is asking God to smite him with a plague of beetles.  :)

Chris Owens

>any info on the use of praying mantis in gardens.

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:05:11 GMT

You need a tape measure, a good sheet of graph paper,
a french curve  (if the design will have curves), a straight-
edge, 4 cans of flourescent paint, string and stakes -- 
popsicle sticks will work fine, and a fine-point writing tool.

1) Measure the area where you want to lay out the design.
Make this accurate to the nearest inch.

2) Block out the area on your graph paper, using one
square per inch.

3) Draw in your design on the graph paper.  Use the
french curve to lay in the curves.

4) Dig up the bed, and till the soil well.  Get it completely
ready to plant.

5) Using the string and stakes, lay out a one-inch by
one-inch grid on the bed.  It works best if the string
is actually laying on the soil.  It will also be easier if
every fifth string is a different color.

6) Transfer your design to the bed by spraying a dot
of flourescent paint at every spot that the line of your
design crosses a line on your graph.

7) Carefully remove the strings.

8) Plant, making sure to plant the outlines first.

Good luck.

Chris Owens

>does anyone lknow of a book or magazine articles that give design help
>with carpet bedding? I've got an ideal spot on my front lawn for a design.
>I just don't know how to design it to scale and lay out the design.
>
>Thanks in advace for your help.
>You can e-mail me direct at [email-masked]
>Rosanne Sherry

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From: [email-masked] (RSherry271)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 21:21:57 -0500

Thanks an awful lot Chris.

Rosie in Zone 6
Rosanne Sherry

"Dogs come when called, cats take a message and get back to you".

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From: [email-masked] (Bruce Gorham)
Date: 6 Mar 1995 22:52:26 GMT

Try the "Old Farmer's Almanac".

Bruce

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:01:27 GMT

Good luck.

Chris Owens

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:01:57 GMT

Chris Owens

---

From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:02:43 GMT

Chris Owens

---

From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:03:17 GMT

Good luck.

Chris Owens

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:03:57 GMT

Good luck.

Chris Owens

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:04:31 GMT

Chris Owens

---

From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 17:05:11 GMT

Good luck.

Chris Owens

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From: [email-masked] (RSherry271)
Date: 5 Mar 1995 21:21:57 -0500

Rosie in Zone 6
Rosanne Sherry

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From: [email-masked] (Bruce Gorham)
Date: 6 Mar 1995 22:52:26 GMT

Bruce

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From: [email-masked] (Paul Dineen)
Date: 7 Mar 1995 01:12:18 GMT

Christine Owens ([email-masked]) wrote:
: Boiling water kills weeds just fine . . . and anything else with which
: it comes in contact.  Try laying landscape cloth -- it is porous --
: with little holes cut for the groundcover plants.  This should help
: with the weed problem.

  We currently have (porous) landscape cloth under the bark that's
  there.  I have to remove the bark because it's too windy where we
  are for it to stay in place.  I want to avoid replacing it with rock
  (we already have 50 tons of rock on our 1/2 acre).  My preference is
  to rip out all the bark and and cloth and replace it with
  groundcover.

  I'd like to get basically a solid cover of groundcover.  Do you
  think we can still get that with a combination of groundcover and
  patches of cloth, or would we need to have basically no cloth to
  achieve that?

  [Re:  the bark -- we got a kind that our landscape person said had
  the best chance of staying in place with the wind, but even that is
  blown away by the half dozen or so 90+ MPH days we get here (plus,
  the Rockies front range is a generally windy are anyway).  If we
  were in town we'd probably be ok, but out in the exposed county it
  doesn't work.]

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From: [email-masked] (Meliva)
Date: 7 Mar 1995 11:15:41 -0500

I place them directly on the ground for my gardenias, azaleas,
rhodadendrens (sic?), and hydrangeas.  I also pour left-over coffee
(cooled) directly on the soil.  My gardenia went from 5 blooms our first
year in our house to two bloomings of well over 200 flowers each time with
no other supplements offered.

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From: [email-masked]
Date: 6 Mar 95 20:16:14 -0600

>   were in town we'd probably be ok, but out in the exposed county it
Yes, you can get good coverage with the landscape fabric and slits
into which you put your groundcover.  If you have the type of fabric
that needs a cover over it, talk to a road construction contractor
who does revegetation.  There are many types of straw mats, some
reinforced with polyethylene mesh or jute mesh, that can be laid
over seeds... you could peg some of this down over your landscape
fabric, and then plant through both mat and landscape fabric.
This would give your new plants some water moderation, too.

BTW, you have planted a shelter belt to protect what soil you've
got left, haven't you?

Kay Klier  [email-masked]

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From: [email-masked] (Jeffrey S. Ertel)
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 1995 16:37:19 GMT

> Kay Klier  [email-masked]
What Kay suggests will work with some plants but not others.
Some of the groundcovers that spread with rhizomes will not be
able to come up through the fabrics and those that spread with
stolons will not be able to root through it.  I don't like to
use fabrics with groundcovers.  If you have a current weed
problem you could use soil solarization to sterilize the area
prior to planting the groundcover.

Rototill the area and then cover it with clear plastic for
about six weeks during the summer.  You need to bury the edges
of the plastic around the edge of the bed.  With the windy
conditions you describe, you will need to use a fairly heavy
grade of plastic and even then you may need to replace it a
couple of times if it rips.  I have made repairs with clear
packing tape.

What kind of groundcover were you thinking of using?

Jeff Ertel
[email-masked]