Subject: Re: Trying to save split tree

From: [email-masked] (Chris Lewis)
Date: 28 Feb 1995 20:47:26 GMT

In article <[email-masked]>,
Susan Sanders  <[email-masked]> wrote:
>In article <[email-masked]> Chris Lewis,
>[email-masked] writes:
>>I'll use threaded rod with pieces of cedar 2x4 as the first layer of
>>"washer" (against the trunk), and large metal washers as the second
>layer,
>anything special about the threaded rod?  
>
>Personally, I would skip the wood and just use large fender washers, if
>necessary (depending on the length of the split) doing two rods, one
>above the other.  Assuming the repair is successful, and I would expect
>it to be (I've done this with good success though not on cedar), the tree
>will keep growing and eventually completely engulf the hardware.  I would
>think the 2X4, on the other hand, could interfere with the continued
>growth of the tree.
>
>>Is galvanized (zinc plated) okay?  Or should I find ordinary steel and
>let
>>it rust?  I want to make sure I don't poison the tree, but would prefer
>>not to bust the bank trying to buy stainless threaded rod ;-)
>
>In my experience, galvanized works fine.                        -Sue
>Sanders

Thanks.

Upon revision, I'm going to do one bolt straight thru the split, and
another 18-24" above the split.  The first to keep the split together,
and the second to control/reduce the leverage/flexing of the crotch.

I'll have to see what I can find in the way of washers.  I'd kinda
like something as much as 2" in diameter.

---

From: Susan Sanders <[email-masked]>
Date: 28 Feb 1995 18:41:08 GMT

layer,

let

---

From: Susan Sanders <[email-masked]>
Date: 28 Feb 1995 18:53:10 GMT

In article <[email-masked]> Chris Lewis,
[email-masked] writes:
>It'll probably be about 12-18" above the split, and be about 24" long.

Oops, I glossed over this sentence.  If you use *cable*, it goes above
the split but if you use *rod* that goes through at the level of the
split.  For that matter, if you can find one long enough to extend
through both trunks, you can just use carriage bolts; actually pull the
split edges together as you tighten the bolts.      -Sue Sanders

---

From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 28 Feb 1995 10:40:55 GMT

In <[email-masked]> cheryln@wook (Cheryl Netter x3449) writes: 

>
>Chris Lewis ([email-masked]) wrote:
>: We have a cedar tree (eastern white if it matters) near our house.  It's
>: not particularly big, nor valuable, but we would kinda like to keep it
>: because it's good for bird feeders ;-)  At least for the time being.
>
>: It's about 12" diameter at the base.  At 6', the trunk (which is about 10"
>: diameter at this point) "bifurcates" into two trunks.  One is about 8",
>: and the other about 6" in diameter.  The thinner one tapers quickly, and
>: only goes another 10' or so.  The other side goes up another 25' or so.
>
>: The problem: the tree has started to split at the crotch.  The split
>: extends down the main trunk about 18".  You can't see thru the split,
>: but it's definately all the way thru.  And there may be some evidence
>: of insect damage at the split.  The split is pretty well perfectly
>: centred on the main trunk.
>
>Don't tie a strap around the tree, you'll strangle it. Drive a bolt 
>through the tree, with either a wooden or metal plate on each end
>to help prevent the bolt from pulling through. Tighten the bolt until the
>tree is pulled together. 
>
>cheryl
>[email-masked]
>USDA zone4 Golden Co
>
>

The strap was a temporary solution.  He reported that it is 
really too cold to be working outdoors right now.  A strap
will keep the tree together until he can take care of it
this spring.

I didn't suggest the bolt-the-trunks-together method, as I have
had bad luck with it in the past.

Chris Owens

---

From: [email-masked] (Steven M. Begley)
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 1995 14:25:58 GMT

Chris-
	Nickel plated hardware would be better IF you can find it. Nickel plated
nuts and washers should be easy to find though you might end up with 
galvanized threaded bar stock. I'm against using raw steel. You'd be amazed 
how fast it will rust away. Also, use at least 1/2" thread stock (see 
below).	
	Also, you may want re-think the idea of using 2 x 4 wooden back-stops. 
The crevice created between the wood and the tree will capture moisture and 
will be a wonderful breeding ground for insects and disease. Besides, it would 
look terrible!
	You want the tree to callous over the hardware so consider 
this: The first layer of "padding" should be a oversized washer called a 
"fender" washer. It has an extra wide flange. Then use a regular washer, then 
the nut. You can ever counter-sink the hardware a little if the leader is 
thick enough. I would recommend that remove the bark and cambium under the
washers anyway to promote callusing. Test fit the threaded bar and a fender
washer, and then scribe around the fender washer with a razor knife. Remove 
all the bark and cambium inside the scribed line and then tighten everything 
down.
	A word of advice from someone who has been there... When you bore the 
hole for the threaded bar, bore a single hole from the outside of one leader 
right on through both leaders. Don't attempt to bore a hole from each side, 
you will NEVER be able to get the holes aligned, and they must be PERFECTLY 
aligned to accept the bar stock. Use a high speed wood bore on an electric 
drill. You can purchase extensions (I think they are  about 14" long) at the 
hardware store that will allow you to make the drill bit as long as you need. 
The part of the extension at accepts the bit (or the end of the previous 
extension) is 1/2" in diameter, therefor you need to be drilling a hole at 
least 1/2" wide. You don't want any "play" inside the hole so the bar stock 
should fit the hole exactly. If you are drilling a 1/2" hole, you'll need 1/2" 
bar stock as well.
	Let me know how you make out. If you can't find 1/2" fender 
washers, E-mail me and I'll send you some.