Subject: Re: Nasty clay soil

From: [email-masked]
Date: 30 Mar 95 12:50:18 CST

Clay soil needs work and patience. Dig it several times before planting.
Add plenty organic matters before each digging. The soil will improve
each year. No gravels. I also found out that autumn digging is very
effective for areas that have winter ground freezing. When ice forms
in the soil, it tends to aggregate into many small particles. They
expand and loose the soil. I have not figured out why this happens
more to digged soil. I hear gypsum helps too, but I never tried it.

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From: [email-masked] (John C Pardon)
Date: 31 Mar 1995 14:19:08 GMT

I have a suburban lot that was built on in '65 at which time the
contractors stripped much of the topsoil or compacted it under subsoil
churned up in laying the house foundation. Some nice mature trees are in
place but soil beneath is nasty clay. I've addressed the problem by
mulching with free wood chips and selectively "forking in" organic matter
and peat. Can't use a tiller because of tree roots. The soil has
loosened considerably from the mere protection of temporary mulch.
Lesson: protect your soil until you decide on more definite plans. Avoid
further compaction and soil will loosen. Work in lots of organic matter
as others have suggested.

Now, I have a question:

What specific use does *pine bark* provide? I've seen references to it
being "dug" into heavy clay soils (esp. in Texas, for rose beds). Is it
just for drainage? Does it add much acidity? How coarse is this bark
when "dug in?" What is the relative expense compared to composted
manure/mushroom compost?

Thanks.

John Pardon
Dayton, Ohio