Subject: Re: Mulching Tall Bearded Irises...

From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 22 Mar 1995 03:00:48 GMT

In <[email-masked]> [email-masked] (Farooq Butt) writes: 

>
>
>I have a bed of tall bearded irises that I would dearly love to 
>mulch to keep down the spring weed onslaught but have been 
>warned that my irises will rot under a thick mulch layer. I 
>have, however, seen houses where the owners mulch the rhizomes 
>and the plants did not seem like they were diseased. What's 
>the deal ? Is this "no mulch" commandment just hooey or is there 
>something to it ? 
>
>fmb
>-- 
>Standard High-Tech Disclaimer: NOTHING  in the above article has the slightest 
>relationship to reality. If any reality correspondences are found, please 
>notify me IMMEDIATELY. Any threats, abuse or stupidity of any kind is purely 
>UNintentional. These are MY Opinions NOT my employer's.
>

Rhizomatous irises are REALLY susceptible to fungal infection,
which is why mulching is generally recommended against.  You
could do this for several years with no problem, then have disaster
strike.  When I divide my rhizomatous irises, I dig the bed over
completely.  Then I plant the irises by creating a little mound of
dirt, placing the rhizome on top of the mound, and letting the roots
drape down.  I then cover the roots with a thick layer of newspaper,
leaving the mound exposed.  After all the irises are on their mounds,
I add soil until the ground is level with the mounds, leaving all the
rhizomes exposed.  This procedure helps keep down the weeds
without mulch.

Chris Owens

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From: [email-masked] (Jim Wilson)
Date: 21 Mar 95 20:15:17 -0500

> the deal ? Is this "no mulch" commandment just hooey or is there 
**
There is definitely something to it as it pertains to bearded irises.
The mulch will often tend to maintain moist conditions at the soil
surface, which is one factor favoring rot.  It's quite possible that
other factors are helping those owners out.  If not, it is just a
matter of time before they get caught.  Soil with excellent
drainage helps, probably the most important factor.  Planting depth
is another--rhizomes with their tops above the soil surface have
a better chance.  Depth and type of mulch is important.  Whether
borers are present is a significant influence, as are just plain
weather and sun exposure.  Also, some varieties are more susceptible 
to rot than others.  I would treat "no mulch" as a strong recommendation
for bearded irises.

Some growers in the southwest swear by mulch.  I avoid it myself
here in Ohio.  Mainly that makes a lot of weeding.  I've tried Preen, 
and it does seem to help.  My favorite solution, though, is to grow 
beardless irises that thrive under mulch.
                                                --Jim

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From: [email-masked] (HollyTW)
Date: 20 Mar 1995 20:52:32 -0500

In my (Zone 6) experience, TBs like to have their rhizomes near (if not
in) the sun.  I've had good results mulching  _around_  the  rhizomes but
leaving them pretty much uncovered.  But, being a complete fool for Iris,
I don't mind weeding them a bit.

Good luck! 

Holly
"Dear - if we make one more $300 order from Schreiner's we won't have to
mow!"

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From: Rodney Barton <[email-masked]>
Date: 21 Mar 1995 16:13:56 GMT

> warned that my irises will rot under a thick mulch layer. I 

If your drainage is good and you are not in a very wet area, you can
get by with some mulch. Pine straw (needles) is good because it does not 
compact.  The rhizomes need air as well as sunshine.

Rodney
[email-masked]

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From: [email-masked] (Christine Owens)
Date: 22 Mar 1995 03:00:48 GMT

Chris Owens

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From: [email-masked] (Jim Wilson)
Date: 21 Mar 95 20:15:17 -0500

**

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From: [email-masked] (HollyTW)
Date: 20 Mar 1995 20:52:32 -0500

Good luck! 

Holly

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From: Rodney Barton <[email-masked]>
Date: 21 Mar 1995 16:13:56 GMT

Rodney
[email-masked]