Subject: Re: [Q] Best way to feed trees?

From: [email-masked] (Kevin Crader)
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 1995 22:57:33 -0500

In article <[email-masked]>, [email-masked] (Ted
Swirsky) wrote:

> I called some 'tree' people about looking into a hole in one of my oaks
> (see an earlier post) and one said that a healthy tree was the best
> defense against disease.  I agree.
> 
> He said he would feed all our trees and shrubs by spraying food on the
> lawn/soil since 'root' feeders put the food too deep which makes
> them worthless.

Ted,

Standard practice is one pound "actual" Nitrogen per inch D.B.H. (diameter
breast height).  So a 10-10-10 fert. means you'll need ten pounds of it to
get one pound "actual" N. Make sure to use a 1:1:1 ratio fertilizer; the K
is as important as the N.

Then at the drip line, make a hole with a crowbar every three feet, 18
inches deep, and put in one-half pound fertilzer (half a coffee can) cover
with soil (on unimproved ground you can spread it right on the soil if it
won't wash out). Perform every three years. Feed only in the fall, between
Columbus Day and Thanksgiving. That way the roots will take up the food
(they often keep growing past New Years, depending on the weather),
transport it up into the plants, where it is ready and waiting for the
next years flower and leaf production, and where it will give extra winter
protection (due to salt content of fertilizer).

If you want to "green up" your broadleaves give them a *foliar* feed in
the spring. Twice in a seven day period works great!

Alot of work - 90 lbs of 10-10-10 into about 180 holes-you could rent a
power auger to make the holes, get a friend to help fill while you dig, or
consider it a cheaper workout than the health club!

Kevin - 26 degrees and dropping here in Lexington MA at 11pm - UGH...

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From: [email-masked] (Kevin Crader)
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 1995 22:57:33 -0500

Ted,

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From: [email-masked] (Kevin Crader)
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 1995 22:57:33 -0500

Ted,

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From: [email-masked] (Ted Swirsky)
Date: 4 Apr 1995 11:55:53 GMT

He also wouldn't bother treating the rhodos for wood borers saying the
plant will drop the diseased branches and, when fed and healthy, heal itself.

Also, he said leave the hole in the tree alone.  Don't spray the termites,
remove diseased wood or fill the hole.  He says removing old wood will
open barriers the tree has build between the good and bad wood.

He's the 'expert' but most of this doesn't make sense to me.  I'd
appreciate any comments about whether it sounds like he knows what he's doing.

Thanks!