Subject: Re: Band Saw Blades

From: Matt Balent/HCS/CSC <Matt_Balent/HCS/[email-masked]>
Date: 26 Jan 96 7:58:54 EDT

Enco Manufacturing Company (800) 873-3626

Matt.

============original message=================
Date: 01/26/96 07:00:04 AM
Subject: Band Saw Blades

Does anyone know of a source of metal-cutting band saw blade in bulk 
rolls?  I understand it's cheaper to purchase the blade in rolls and 
cut/brase blades to fit your saw.  Any info as to sources is 
appreciated.

David C. Hufford

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From: "David C. Hufford" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 17:05:40 -0500 (EST)

At the Quad State conference last September, Peter Sevin demonstated a 
method of brasing band saw blades.  He had a clamp jig to hold the ends 
together and brased a butt joint.  He had been doing this for some time 
and reported it worked great.  Perhaps someone who was at that 
demonstration (and has a better memory than I) could further explain 
Peter's technique.

David C. Hufford

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From: [email-masked]
Date: 26 Jan 1996 22:10:48 EDT

Ellis Mfg. Co., Inc  at 107 W. Railroad St, Verona, WI 53593-0219 Phone
800.383.5547  has a wide variety of band saw blades in specific lengths
and tooth.  They also have bulk blades however, their  prices are
sufficiently reasonable that I buy the length for my saw.  They have
both carbon back and bi-metal.  I've found that since my shop is not a
high production shop that the straight carbon blades are a better value.
They also manufacture band saws.  I purchased one a few years back and
am convinced that this is one of the more valuabe tools in my smithy. 
They also have heavy duty drill presses (I'm saving up for one).  Ellis
is high quality and a fair price and they ship quickly.
Roger Carlsen
Ephraim Forge, Inc.
Frankfort, IL
[email-masked]

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 96 12:33:08 PST

>demonstration (and has a better memory than I) could further explain 

Brazing band saw blades is a VERY old techniques that you will probably 
see mentioned in just about any woodworking book.  I have a 1945 "Popular 
Mechanics" issue which oulines brazing the ends of a broken blade 
together with "brass spelter, borax and a parafin torch."  I just 
question how much use this technique would be with metal cutting blades.  
The kerf of the saw through the metal is much less forgiving than the 
kerf through wood.  Most commercial sources seem to butt/arc weld and 
then grind smooth on the sides.  The band saw source near me has a gizmo 
that cuts/welds/grinds the blade.  The operator just measures out the 
length of the finished blade and the machine does the rest.

-----------------------------------------------------
Name: Franklyn D. Garland        A Hobby Is Hard work
E-mail: [email-masked]          You wouldn't Do For
Date: 01/27/96                     A Living.
Time: 12:33:08

http://www.mcs.net/~frnklyn/homepage/
-----------------------------------------------------

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 96 09:42:46 EST

>demonstration (and has a better memory than I) could further explain 

Hmmm...  I have to say I am quite skeptical of the safety of this. 
If it was safe I suspect you'd see a lot more of it given that it
is a lot simpler to  equip yourself with brazing apparatus (any
generic torch will do) that with the specialized welding apparatus
used in butt welding bandsaw blades.

I have no doubt it can be done and that it  works but I myself
would not feel comfortable with this method.  Bending fatigue 
is going to be more of a problem than with a welded blade.
It would also seem that there's a greater margin for error 
in a welded joint than in a brazed one.  When brazing, the
quality of the joinery is far more critical than in welding
since there's no joining of the parent metals.

I'd be very interested to know just how well this method
works regarding joint integrity.

	-Andy V.

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From: [email-masked] (James Batson)
Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 12:56:18 -0600

>works regarding joint integrity.

Andy, there is no problem, been doing it for years.  These kits are now
being sold by mail order houses.

Cut a 1 1/1 to 2 inch section out of one leg of a piece of angle iron, 1/8
by 1 by 1 inch, which is about 6 or 8 inches long.  Clamp angle iron in a
vise with the cut out facing up on the side of the vise so thet you can
direct a flame under the slot.  You can use a straight butt joint or a
scarfed joint.  Use borax for flux and hard silver solder.  Clamp both ends
of the blade to the angle iron with two pair of vice grips.  The joint
should be in the middle of the cut out.  Make sure the blade is lined up
correctly.  Dab some wet borax on joint.  Heat joint till borax melts.
Place small amount of fluxed solder on top of joint and heat from bottom
making sure both edges are being heated at the same rate.  The solder
should flow at a dull red.  Solder flows from cold to hot.  Let the joint
cool slowly.  You should not have a brittle joint if the blade was kept
below critical temperature.  If everything was aligned and you didn't use
to much solder, the joint will require  a minimum of cleanup and be strong.

Jim