Subject: promoting rust

From: [email-masked] (Roger Olsen)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 09:24:09 -0800

>Watching the discussion on descaling steel, I have a question that comes
>to mind...

>I make certain sculpture out of 16ga sheet steel (hot roll). I want to
>rust it - FAST - >and then seal that rust. I have had *great* success
>using vinegar and other times I can't >get vinegar to work at all!

>It seems (1) that the steel must be clean, and (2) the humidity must be
>high and the >steel should set in sunlight for optimum results. I simply
>lay the piece so the surface >which I'm trying to rust is flat, apply
>vinegar liberally (usually with a small paint >brush) and voila...
>literally overnight I can get a brilliant, orange, surface rust. ... >but
>then again I can't (sometimes). The key is that I want a bright orange
>rust, not a >dull, weathered sort of rust look.

>Has anyone perfected a similar process who could shed some light on why I
>have such >variances? I wonder if the sheet of 16ga hot roll that I use
>has anything to do with it? >What other material would rust the steel in a
>more controlled manner?

>Thanks in advance.

>Jeff Reiter
>Frankfort, IL
>[email-masked]

it has been my experience that the metal must be completely clean and
de-scaled prior to a rust solution or a patina solution, this can be done
by starting with cold rolled plate stock, or if hot rolled, sand blasting
or soaking in muriatic acid solution and after rinsing neutralize with a
baking soda bath, if starting with cold rolled plate the last thing to do
before applying patina or rust solution is clean with paint thinner and
handle with cotton gloves, if you don't do this you will get a different
take or no take at all where your fingers have made contact.

feric nitrate mixed about 18 to one with water makes a beautiful smooth
marble rust orange look thast can be applied in a variety of ways for
different affects, and after rinsing can be clear coated with any spray
lacquer, poly-urethane etc. I've never been able to clear seal a true
oxidized rust finish, it will look good for a month or maybe two but alas
the pitting and erupting starts, rust never sleeps

from the cascade mountains in north central washington

roger olsen

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From: "Bruce M. Freeman" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 22:35:57 -0400

I can only guess.  Why not try some hydrogen peroxide along with your acid.
I suspect this might initiate the rusting -- but I am only guessing.
Bruce

At 12:37 AM 6/14/96 -0500, Jeff Reiter wrote:
>Watching the discussion on descaling steel, I have a question that comes to
mind...
>
>I make certain sculpture out of 16ga sheet steel (hot roll). I want to rust
it - FAST - and then seal that rust. I have had *great* success using
vinegar and other times I can't get vinegar to work at all!
>It seems (1) that the steel must be clean, and (2) the humidity must be
high and the steel should set in sunlight for optimum results. I simply lay
the piece so the surface which I'm trying to rust is flat, apply vinegar
liberally (usually with a small paint brush) and voila... literally
overnight I can get a brilliant, orange, surface rust. ... but then again I
can't (sometimes). The key is that I want a bright orange rust, not a dull,
weathered sort of rust look.
>Has anyone perfected a similar process who could shed some light on why I
have such variances? I wonder if the sheet of 16ga hot roll that I use has
anything to do with it? What other material would rust the steel in a more
controlled manner?

---

From: Clyde Wynia <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 04:22:03 -0500

>	Ken Riley let us in on several "secrets". His big secret was how 
>to make a rust finish quickly (wait a minute, I thought we wanted to get 
>rid of rust. DN). The recipe: Add between six drops and a full dropper of 
>muratic acid to pint of ordinary drugstore 3% hydrogen peroxide. The more 
>acid, the quicker and darker the rust -- experiment. Heat your iron so 
>that when you spray with the solution it vaporizes but does not boil. An 
>ordinary spritzer head will screw onto the peroxide bottle. When the 
>color is to your liking wash with soapy water, dry and wax finish for 
>interior use. Outside it will continue to rust.

I want to try this. I've been using the muratic acid straight out of the jug
(the stuff used for cleaning brick and other masonry) to get a fast rust.
Spray it on at night and if it is drizzling it will be all rusted by
morning. You have to rinse out the spray bottle immediatly or it eats the
spring out of the mechanism and no more spray. Some one suggested Clorox a
while back on this list. It also works fast without all the nasty fumes of
the muratic acid.

In any case the metal must be clean. I get the scale, dirt etc off by
sandblasting and can then end up with overnight rust with either muratic or
chlorine. But, the peroxide sound like worth trying.

Clyde Wynia
M222 Sugarbush Lane,
Marshfield, WI 54449

Work 715-387-2580
Home 717-387-1653
Fax    715-387-1212

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 08:36:49 -0600

>liberally (usually with a small paint brush) and voila... literally

Plain old salt water in a spray bottle and hot sun light, or a heat lamp,
works pretty well.
Give the piece a shot everytime you happen to walk by.

Mike George