Subject: The most important tools for a blacksmith. This month's problem.

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 14:08:53 -0400

Hello Troops..

I hope you're ready for this as I expect it may start a storm of contriversy.
  I have the dubious honor of "starting again."  Eight years ago I left one
of the most complete blacksmith shops anyone could ever want.. years of
aquiring tools from faded shops.  Even had an ox sling.  How many of you guys
ever used one of those? Or seen one for that matter?

Anyhow, my plan was simple.  Don't haul all this iron from New York State to
Oregon, simply start over and buy what you need out there.  Wrong!  There is
nothing in the West as far as volume of available tools as there were in the
East.  I've changed my plan.

I have a shed for a shop.. not big about the size of a 1-1/2 car garage and
that's all.  My plan is to buy three items: an anvil, a gas forge and a hand
hammer. (I brought a blacksmith's vise with me.)  I will make everything
else. (More out of necessity than choice!)  I don't plan on making anything
heavy, just small items like tools, colonial items, etc.  Mostly finished,
whitesmith work.  No monsters like gates or railings. I will work alone with
no striker.
 
Given that...Here's the challenge...

What are the tools you would make and in what order.  Try to be specific like
tongs for 1/2" square stock or 1/2" round stock rather than "a pair of
tongs."  Believe it or not, I will follow the final agreement closely.  This
is a serious question that I have given a lot of thought to.  (To which I've
given a lot of thought.. for you grammarians.)

I was going to throw out my list first.. but I don't want to influence the
pure and pristine thoughts you guys/girls will come up with.  (Up with which
you will come.. for you grammarians, again.)

I appreciate the help!  Thanks..

Kent Reeves   :o)
[email-masked]

1.  

My plan is to start

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From: [email-masked] (Thomas Boudreau)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 17:29:28 -0300

Ox sling.. not too many know about them, or that oxen were shod with
a pair of shoes per hoof,because they had split-hooves. I have never used
them, but have seen them. The slings were used to lift the ox so the legs
could be lifted to shoe the ox. The ox could not balance itself on three
legs like the horse, so a sling was needed. Any more comments on this one?

       As far as starting over again on tools, I'm hoping to make a lot of
my own as well, so this should be interesting!!

 Even had an ox sling.  How many of you guys

>My plan is to start  

«»Thomas B.
«»N.S. Can.
«»[email-masked]
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 00:09:36 -0400

I assume no torch or arc welder - if you had these, I think I'd build a
treadle hammer first. Even though you think you don't need a striker, you
might want some muscle if you need to hammer heavy stock for hardies, hammer
heads, punch holes, etc.  I work by myself, too, and I wouldn't be without
one.

I mainly do small production work and have built all of my 'smithing tools
except power hammer, anvils and vises.  I prefer to build tongs first for the
jobs at hand, i.e., if you are building J-hooks and S-hooks from 1/4" to 3/8"
stock, make two sets of tongs to hold the work (two sets so one can be
heating while you work the other and to have an extra if one breaks).

After tongs, you might want to concentrate on chisels, punches, scroll forms,
etc., but they would have to be specific to your work.  Tool building boils
down to making what will serve your needs - there are probably several basic
blacksmithing tools which I don't have (like a swage block), but at the
present time, I don't see the need for them.          hollis

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From: [email-masked] (W Thomas Powers)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:12:40 -0400

Starting de novo; I would forge a punch from stock long enough that
you do not need tongs to manage it.  Next forge a set of tongs using the
punch to make the pivot hole: size to hold the stock you will make the
next piece from: a hardy so you can cut down all these extra long
pieces:  From there you can work your way through the common sized tongs
for round and square work.  Make your punches on an "as needed basis" as
well as bending "U"s for scrolling.  I would make a hot cut fairly early
but I tend to use one more than some folk. It really depends on what
you plan to make.

					Best regards,

					Thomas Powers

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From: [email-masked] (lee pavlica)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 12:59:03 -0600

>I appreciate the help!  Thanks..
Dear Kent,
   Your question brings back my thoughts from the past.  When I first became
intrested in our great craft, I realised that what set us apart from all
other crafts was that we ARE the toolmaker.  So I thought to myself, self, I
said, lets start with punches.  First round.  Then I thought I'll mkake them
in 16'ths from 1\8 to 1 inch.  Then I will do square then heart shaped
then...then I became overwealmed!  Then I realised another beauty of our
craft is the utter beauty that comes from our very simple tooling. Then the
revelation!  Keep it simple.  My answer is toj determine my tooling needs
befor each job and the first iron in the fire for any job is for the needed
tools.  Befor you know it, you will have a toolrack full of beautiful
handmade tools!  I try NOT to modify my existing tools.  I have very few
bought tools fleemarket or otherwise.  In my spare time-as apposed to job
time-I will make That special tool just because.
                                       
                                        Good Luck,
                                         Lee

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From: Mike Linn <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 18:10 EDT

Dear Kent,
        In my humble opinion the NUMBER 1 item to aquire is a decent hammer.
If you cant hit the metal properly and consistantly then youll spend more
time than is required for a job. My first hammer and still favorite is a
1000 gram Swedish pattern Peddinghaus that I modified for myself. I dressed
the face and the pein and most important I filed the handle down to fit MY
hand. A blacksmiths favorite hammer is a very personal item, it should feel
comfortable in the hand and should feel like an extention of ones arm. I
personally have 4 main hammers, My 1000g Peddinghaus for general forging, a
2 lb. standard blacksmith hammer (with a crowned face) for forging leaves
and certain drawing applications, 
a 1 1/4 lb ball pein for striking other tools, ie punches, chisels etc. and
a 3/4 lb blacksmith pattern for forge welding. I have other hammers that I
use occasionally like a hand sledge but these are my mainstays.

        As for the rest of the equipment, Ive gathered stuff from garage
sales and flea markets and modified them to my needs. I purchase chisels to
shape and grind for future use. A good pair of tongs for the stock being
used is a given. If you would rather purchase than make, there are a number
of good tongs sources avilable. A hot cut was mentioned in a previous post.
Frankly, I use a hacksaw or a chopsaw but if a hot cut is needed, like at
demonstrations, mine is made from a piece of truck leafspring cut at an
angle and welded to a hardie stub.

        A big help in a 1 man shop is a 3rd arm. Mine is a number of dogs
for my anvils pritchel and a modified pipe clamp that fits in my hardy hole
and exerts its pressure down toward the anvil. Its really difficult to do
punching, slitting, drifting etc.. by yourself.

        Another tool no shop should be without, is a twisting wrench, either
a purchased monkey wrench or a forged and fabricated specialty wrench. My
favorite, is a monkey wrench with another handle welded on opposite of the
existing handle. The additional handle helps keep your twists straight.
However, I've even made twists with a Cresent wrench, (whatever gets the job
done).

well thats my 2 cents,

mike

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               Michael Linn 
            Artisian Blacksmith
              AFC Web Master
 http://www.the-matrix.com/afc/index.html
==================================================
Smile, it makes people wonder what you've been up to.

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From: Mike Linn <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 18:10 EDT

Dear Kent,

well thats my 2 cents,

mike

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