Subject: Re: ETCHING MILD STEEL

From: Bill Hornaday <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 13:12:19 -0700

Is anyone out there doing etching of steel.  What acids are you using, and
what resists?
I have done alot of etching in copper, but not in steel.  I tried Nitric
Acid, but was not happy with results.

Thanks in advance.

Bill Hornaday

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From: "[email-masked] 415.855.5707" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 13:44:17 -0800 (PST)

I haven't done this but have read that a popular method is to use "Aqua Regia"
which I believe is a mixture of nitric and hydrochloric acids and distilled
water.  The other salient part I remember is to let this mixture age for a
month or so - apparently fresh acid bites too quickly and will actually result
in a less clear etch.

It's one of the things on my list of things to experiment with...

Joe McGlynn

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From: Donald Fulwood <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 00:34:06 -0700

Bill Hornaday wrote:
> what resists?(Clipped)

Bill (and all),

     I have been doing quite a bit of acid etching in various metals. I 
couldn't get a difinitive answer to the same question that Bill asked 
either, so I performed some semi- scientific tests on various acids 
and/or combinations of acids. All of them are temperature sensitive (the 
warmer the acid and metal, the faster and courser the etch). I was not 
able to tell any obvious differances in the acid choosen for use in 
etching mild steel or tool steel. Givin similar strength and temperature 
the reaction was reasonably similar for all practical purposes.

     The one exception to this is in the etching of stainless steel. I do 
some scrollwork and flowers on Stainless Steel cookware that I beat out 
from time to time. PC Board Etchant (Archer Etchant - From Radio Shack) 
beats any other acid or combination that I could find by a wide margin. 
It works as well as any other on non stainless steels. It has the 
advantage, also, of producing less fumes and I have spilled some on 
exposed skin with no harm done (just rinsed skin in slack tub). It does a 
great job on pattern welded blades too.

     Considering the above facts, I can find no reason to store more 
dangerous acids in my shop. PC Board Etchant is the way to go as far as I 
am concerned.

     For masking or blockout material, I use a 50/50 beeswax/asphaltum 
mixture melted onto the warm metal in a thick coat (about the thickness 
of a matchbook cover. The Asphaultum is purchased from an Art Supply 
store in the form of a small solid brick). By applying the mixture 
thickly and allowing it to cool completely, I can, with a very light 
touch from an 0.5 mm Pentel mechanical pencil, draw guide lines in the 
material without exposing the metal. If a mistake is made at this point, 
it can be erased by smearing the mixture with a fingertip and redrawing. 
Once the lines are as desired I then go over them removing the blockout 
down to the metal.
     A picture or drawing can be taped over the blockout and the lines 
traced over if the blockout is applied thickly, leaving an impression 
behind when you carefully remove the paper.

     Hope this helps.
					Donnie Fulwood, Editor
					Ocmulgee Blacksmith Guild