Subject: Welding advice

From: "Charles Orlando" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 96 19:16:27 EST

Instead of using 6011, which does not work well when it has absorbed a 
little moisture, try learning to weld with 7014 rod, 3/32" in 
diameter.  It will be easy to strike and arc, and will only stick when 
the heat is too low.  It is more of a "contact rod" so keeping arc 
length is not a problem.  6011 is a high penetration rod, but you can 
get adequate penetration with 7014 by increasing the amps.  When the 
welding sounds like frying eggs, you are probably about right.  
Practice staying in the puddle and penetrating both pieces of work.  
You will eventually learn how to draw a nice looking and functional 
bead.
Charley Orlando

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 20:48:02 -0400

In a message dated 96-06-07 11:22:31 EDT, you write:

>Every 
>time I do this the rod sticks and I have to remove it and start again. 
>Anyone got any advice on getting this down? I am working with 6011 
>rods 1/4 inch diameter. Think I had the welder set at about 75. Would 
>also appreciate advice on when you use different type and diameter 
>rods

Jim, 1/4 inch rod is pretty tough to learn with.  My suggestion would be to
try some 1/8 rod, and crank up the amps.  I think that you'll learn faster
once you get a bead running and feel what it's supposed to feel like.  I was
a volunteer welding instructor at our local trade school and found that for
first time stick welders that using the rod diameter as the setting on the
welder helped them get started, and then once they got the feel of it, turned
it down so they learned to control the "splatter".  So, if you were going to
learn to stick weld using this formula, you gotta crank it up!  1/4 inch is
.250, or 250 on your welder.  That is way to hot for good welding, but at 75
amps you wont get started.  Start with some 1/8" rod if you can get some, and
set the welder at 100 to 125.  Practice striking the rod  on a picece of
scrap with the welder turned off, to get the feel of it.  It should feel like
you're striking a match.  Once you get the feel for that, and flipping your
helmut closed at the same time, turn on the juice and go for it.  Get back to
me with your mail address and I'll send you a booklet or two on getting
started.  Let me know how you do.
Mike Schermerhorn

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 00:08:57 -0400

I used to install boilers and have burned a lot of rods.  I can't stand to
use E6013 rods because of the heavy slag and generally only use E6011, E7014
and E7018.  If you take a 1/8" E7014 rod and set your Lincoln to 120 amps AC,
you can scratch an arc and let the rod touch the work at about a 30 degree
angle - it will burn right off and leave a clean bead.  This may not be
useful for a particular weld, but it is a useful training aid to see what a
good weld bead looks like.  A 6011 or 6010 (DCRP only) is a very versatile
rod and can be used on fairly light material if it is correctly manipulated.
 I welded some 16 gauge sheet metal the other day with a 3/32" E6011 rod and
DCRP at about 40 amps.  It ain't as clean as TIG but it was all we had at the
time and the weld doesn't leak (it was on a small water tank).  Because it
had a tendency to burn through, I turned the tank so I could weld downhand
which results in shallower penetration.  If your Lincoln allows DC, I would
use it in the beginning for almost everything, but AC works well on 7014 or
7018 at higher amperage.  Start with a 1/8" rod at about 70 - 90 amps.  AC
tends to sputter at lower amperages.

Another tip is to get a new rod if you have stuck one several times because
the flux tends to break off and makes it really hard to start - if you are
beginning, you don't need more problems.

Take a couple of wraps with the stinger cable around your arm and drop out
some slack to the electrode holder - it helps to steady your arm.  Also make
a point to rest on absolutely anything that is available and stable -  this
is more help to steady you.

Practice, practice, practice.

Good luck                                 hollis

---

From: [email-masked] (John & Cynthia/ MidLife Crisis Ent.)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 09:14:28 +0200

>started.  Let me know how you do.

Also, if you are near a town/city large enough to have a welding supply
shop, go to them and see if they would help you/show you/let you try, a few
different rods and welder set ups.  AC vs DC.  What does a proper weld look
like/sound like, what does too hot an arc sound/look and feel like.  Or if
this is not available, ask your supplier for any info on the different
rode, on welding techniques or what ever they have.  Get/buy a couple of
sticks of different size and types of rod and take them home and try them
yourself.  Also, community colleges often have shop depts that are good to
get help from.  Even instructors at the local high school shop would most
likely be happy to show you a bit and give you some direction.  I have
alwyas felt that the best way to learn how to weld is (if available) get a
bit of initial instruction, then go practice on a pile of *clean* scrap.
Practice in this area does help!

                                        John

John Dach and Cynthia Thomas
Maiden Metals
a div. of
MidLife Crisis Enterprises
PO BX 44
Philo, CA  95466           If death is the schoolmaster,
707-895-2635(phone/fax)            then life is our homework.
800-749-1981

---

From: "Paul C. Sperbeck" <[email-masked]>
Date: 09 Jun 96 11:50:18 EDT

Hello Jim
The most common problems involved with beginners at stick welding are arc
starting as you have found out. 
First check your welding rod info to determine if your current settings are
correct for the rod in question.  You state that you are using a 1/4" rod...
unless you are welding 1" plate, the rod you are using is much to large. For
1/4" plate stock, 3/32" or 1/8" rod is fine. The typical current setting for
these sizes will be about 75 amps and 90 amps respectively. Try to use a grazing
arc-like (no pun intended)  motion to start the arc rather than a stabbing
motion. Human reaction times being what they are in relation to the current
pulse (milliseconds vs microseconds) the current will build to a melting point
at the tip of the rod long before you can remove the tip of the welding rod to a
sufficient distance to maintain a proper arc.
If you are near a Lincoln dealer pick up a copy of the lincoln arc welding
manual, it's about 9" X 11" and costs about 12 or fifteen dollars. VERY good
reference manual.
Patience + practice = perfection
The rod type that you are using is a excellent rod for all position welding, and
while it does not produce a flat, beautiful bead like some other rods, it is the
most universal type of rod in the industry, and is the rod that EVERYONE should
lear to use before they move on to the more high tech rods and coatings.
Good Luck see ya'll at Alfred '96
Paul Sperbeck

My grandfather WAS a blacksmith and it didn't do me one damn bit of good!

---

From: [email-masked] (David Wilson)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 10:12:30 -0700

>>>Anyone got any advice on getting this down?

In addition to the other excellent advise on starting an arc with stick
rods, my welding instructor told me another tip. He said to try laying the
side of the rod on the metal, then slowly pull the rod towards you until
the tip just clears the metal-thus starting an arc.

This instructor worked at a local High School, Continuing Education class,
excellent help for me, for I'm a hobby type and didn't need full welding
career type knowledge.

The match strike has always been hard for me, but DC is a whooooooole lot
easier to start.

My 1/50 $ worth.

--
David
[email-masked]
http://www.flash.net/~dwwilson/