Subject: Blacksmith Shop Design

From: [email-masked]
Date: 26 Mar 1996 22:15:36 EDT

T  Does anyone have suggestions that might 
TH>     help me steer clear of mistakes.  If you were to start over from 
TH>     scratch, how would you design your shop.  How big?  How high?  Doors?  
TH>     Windows?  Sure, but how big, how many, placement?  Should the shop be 
TH>     rectangular or square?  Where would you place the forge, anvil, vise, 
TH>     workbench, etc?  All ideas will be appreciated, as well as any 
TH>     building plans, materials lists, etc. that anyone may have.
TH>     
TH>     Thanks to all for taking the time to read this post.
TH>     
TH>     John Nicol
TH>     Lebanon, CT

John,

This has always been a concern for me too.  I started my smithy in an
old 2 horse barn with a dirt (in the spring, mud) floor.  There was no
heat and sometimes in the winter I would have to brush the snow off of
the anvil in the morning.  When the temperature got below 20 degrees
the electric motors on my equipment didn't work very well (nor did I
for that fact).  In the summer, because there were no windows it was
HOT.  Sometimes when it rained I was afraid to operate any electrical
equipment because of the water pouring through the foof.  In 1987 I
built a 1200 sq ft smithy with concrete floor, 200 amp electrical
service, windows, exhaust fans, insulation and 2 years later a gas
space heater . . . HEAVEN!!   

A year and a half ago I was asked by UMBA to be the demonstrator for
their fall meeting.  Because shop layout had always been a question in
my mind, I thought others might have a similar concern.  So,  for part
of my presentation, I video taped my smithy and brought it along to
show others.  Certainly not as  "the way" to lay out a shop, but rather
to "see" someone elses shop, to enable a person to envision the pluses
and minuses of a particular layout.   If you would like a copy of this
video (20 minutes or so) e-mail me your mailing address and in a week
or two I'll make a copy and send it to you if you would like.

One last thought:  you can NEVER build your shop too big!!!

Roger Carlsen
Ephraim Forge
Frankfort, IL
rdcarlsen@familytown,com

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From: [email-masked] (Thomas Boudreau)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 22:47:11 -0400

>While on the topic of building a blacksmith shop.....
>
>a member of our Guild (who is not yet a member of this forum) is thinking 
>of using hand made nails to put up the board and batten siding on his 
>shop.  Does anyone have any comments of the advisability of this?  Given 
>that the nails will be made of mild steel, will rust be a problem? 
>Comments?  Discussion?
>
>Albin Drzewianowski
>Editor, Blacksmith Guild of Central Maryland
>Westminster, MD
>
*******************************************************************************

---=>  That is a lot of work, but it's a good way to build up the arm. :o)
  I make a lot of nails in our shop, and unless you need only a few, and
want them for a specific job (furniture, hindges..), don't bother.
 They will look good, for a while but yes, they will rust, and the rust will
run onto the wood. Worst is that the nails do not hold well because of their
shape. You would have to clench the tips so they don't pull out. You would
also have to pre-drill the boards to prevent splitting. 
  If you decide to do it, go all the way and make roseheads, diamond heads,
etc. Good luck!!
 
-->Thomas B.
-->N.S. Can.
-->[email-masked]
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+++++++++

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From: Mike Linn <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 96 15:50 EST

My last post on this subject was a description of my 1 man,
suburban, el cheapo smithy that cost a grand total of $112.34 US. It
fuctions for one person for now cuz I cant afford a big shop AND the tools
to outfit it. 

        My dads shop is a 20x24' Aluminum carport. Cost about $1700.00
delivered and setup. Less if not setup or delivered. It has a 9' peaked roof
and the roof extends halfway down the long walls. Its anchored via house
trailer straps to an 8 inch wide concrete footer. He put this up about 3
years ago and will be installing another this summer hopefully. The nice
thing about these "carports"
are that they are designed to be put together end to end. Buy what you can
afford now and add more as you can. Check with your local metal
shed/outbuilding supplier. Here, a big one is H&H. They make these buildings
and pickup truck camper shells.

        He also just had 100 amp service put in. Till that we couldnt run
the powerhammer and have someone else use a grinder at the same time. Slows
things up on 2 man projects. The next thing to do is add some kind of base
for the powerhammer. I tends to start bouncing when you really start
whomping something.

Last but not least. Lighting is crucial, especially if you have trouble
seeing steel rules, or other small markings, but try to keep the light right
around the forge and fire subdued. Too much light in this area makes it
difficult to watch the colors of the steel and to see clinkers in the fire.

hope this helps.

mike
                                    _///_
                                   /(o o)\
===============================o000o=(_)=o000o====
               Michael Linn 
            Artisian Blacksmith
              AFC Web Master
 http://www.the-matrix.com/afc/index.html
==================================================
Smile, it makes people wonder what you've been up to.

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 08:50:58 -0500

To All,
Steel nails rust. What else is new?
Considering that the "world's greatest" nail makers could do about
2000/"day", I would consider making nails for the sake of good looks a
daunting task. The Blacksmith's shop at Williamsburg is put together with
nails made in the shop but you had multiple smiths working long and hard to
do it.  
Consider this; Make a nail header to hold a modern, mass produced nail. Hit
it three times at the proper angle and you have a representation of a hand
made nail. You may not even have to heat it. I dont think that a galvanized
nail would take the deformation without the zinc flaking off. Stainless nails
might work but they are not cheap. Aluminum nails might do if the battens are
something soft.

Food for thought,

Bill Hochella

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From: [email-masked] (G Hughes)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 18:49 GMT

In-Reply-To: <[email-masked]>

> My old barn has oak board siding put up with uncoated wire nails and in 
>places the nails have rusted to the point that the boards are loose.  
>Also there is some discoloration  on the surface from the nail heads 
>rusting.

In woodwork in school we were taught not to use steel fittings and 
fastenings with oak because the high tannic acid content of oak caused 
corrosion. Hence, we used brass screws and hinges etc. I don't know if 
galvanising the wire nails would increase their resistance to acid attack.

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 12:50:28 -0500

for "hand made" nails  try the  TREMONT NAIL CO., 8 Elm St, PO Box 111,
Wareham 
Mass. 02571 the phone is 617-295-0038. i have never dealt with them.i found
the address in one the the restore old house magazinees a number of years ago
and stuck the address in my files for future ref.

have fun
Sweebe