Subject: Re: ETCHING MILD STEEL

From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 01:38:13 -0400

To All,
Aqua regia is WAY to powerful for careful etching of steel. If you want to
use AR let it sit until it is red. It wil eat gold and platinum for lunch.

Hochewa

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 01:34:26 -0400

To All,
Hydrocloric or muriatic acid ( same thing ) works well. 30% is what is used
commercially. It actually works faster once it has been used a little. Cold
is fine, 130*F is hot enough.

Hochewa

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From: "daryl (d.a.) bender" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 13:08:00 -0400 [/PRMD=BNR/ADMD=TELECOM.CANADA/C=CA/;bcars520.b.491:10.06.96.17.10.04]

How do you transcribe the pattern to the wax? Is it just handwork?

Daryl - Ottawa

In message " ETCHING MILD STEEL", [email-masked] writes:
snip...
>Think he used wax as the resist and ethed with acid, hydrochloric=20
>perhaps?
>--=20
>Jim McCarty
>Father Helias Forge
>Taos, MO
>Editor Rural Missouri Magazine
>Newsletter editor, Blacksmiths Association of Missouri
>
>=B3Foolish consistencies are the hobgoblins of little minds=B3
>
>
>

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 17:27:12 -0600

>I use white or yellow carbon paper that I bought at an art supply store.
However, if your pattern is on fairly thin paper, you can transfer the
design into the wax directly.  Using a reasonably sharp pencil to trace over
the pattern while in contact with the ground will leave an impression in the
wax ground that you can see.

Mike George
Alva, OK

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From: "Franklyn Garland" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 10:37:16 +0000

> > >Is anyone out there doing etching of steel.  What acids are you
> > >using, and what resists?
> > >>Bill Hornaday
> 
Plain ole' Ferric Chloride (printed circut board etchant) from Radio 
Shack will etch mild steel, damascus, brass, copper etc.  It provides 
a slow and relatively safe etch and doesn't have a lot of nasty 
fumes.  Once you have used the Ferric Chloride on brass or copper, 
however, don't use it on steel again.  The copper will plate out and 
give you a whole different look than you wanted.

=================================================
Franklyn D. Garland                         
The Celtic Knot Forge                       
[email-masked]                                 
http://www.mcs.net/~frnklyn/homepage/
For Public PGP key, finger [email-masked]
=================================================

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From: Jim McCarty <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 09:37:50 -0500

> How do you transcribe the pattern to the wax? Is it just handwork?

Right -- it was done with a scribe, you could make this with a 16D 
nail or a welding rod, whatever feels right.

-- 
Jim McCarty
Father Helias Forge
Taos, MO

³Foolish consistencies are the hobgoblins of little minds³

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From: "daryl (d.a.) bender" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 17:36:00 -0400 [/PRMD=BNR/ADMD=TELECOM.CANADA/C=CA/;bcars520.b.264:11.06.96.21.36.57]

Now I know how they did "resist" in the days before photochemical 
etching, wax and a scribe. Can I assume beeswax doesn't flake off? When 
looking at old astrolabes (I know they're not steel but most likely used 
this method) the detail is extremely fine.

Thanks
Daryl

In message " ETCHING MILD STEEL", [email-masked] writes:

>>=20
>>=20
>Right -- it was done with a scribe, you could make this with a 16D=20

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From: [email-masked] (Michael G. Cooper)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 18:27:52 -0700 (MST)

Ferric Chloride works even better warm.  But, BE CAREFUL!  Ferric is
relatively non-toxic and low activity compared to other etchants, but it's
still dangerous.  Please DON'T use nitric acid on iron.  The fumes produced
are EXTREMELY toxic and will give you a headache if inhaled.  Under
conditions of poor ventilation, inhalation WILL KILL YOU.  Check your Merk
manual if you don't believe me.
An alternative to chem etching is electro-etching.  All you need is a power
supply, a contact plate, a hand piece and a little electrolyte.
You can use almost anything for resist.  I've used spray laquer (fast
drying, quick and easy to use) bee's wax (for a thick resist, available at
bee keeper's and honey processors), and asphaltum (traditional, available at
some art stores).
The contact plate can be a piece of stainless steel for longevity, but any
conductive surface will do.
The hand piece can be a dowel handle with a piece of stainless screwed to
the end.  A piece of felt wrapped over the plate and secured with a rubber
band is saturated with electrolyte.  Anything that makes water more
conductive works.  A solution of water and vinegar, salt, HCl or other mild
acid will do the trick.
The power supply should be low voltage for safety and the current limited to
prevent overheating the resist.  Voltage and current needed will depend on
the size of the exposed area to be etched, the strength of electrolyte, and
the type of base metal.  Experimentation is half the fun.
The advantages are:
1.      Your don't need a large quantity of etchant in a tank.
2.      It's fast.
3.      It's safer; no dangerous chemicals.
4.      It'll etch almost any metal, even carbides.
5.      It's fun to play with electrons.

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 08:37:52 -0600

. Can I assume beeswax doesn't flake off?
>Daryl

The reaction from acid with the metal produces heat.  That can cause the wax
to lift next to
the scribed lines which results in a fuzzy image.  If the steel is not
really clean the wax may not adhere completely and acid may get under and
ruin the piece.  Just watch it closely,  take the work from the acid
periodically to be sure it isn't getting too hot.  Be careful when brushing
the bubbles.
Try a couple of simple practice pieces.

Mike George

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 17:38:32 -0400

my one cent

try the material used on circuit boards as a block.  much nicer than
asphaltum from what i hear.  havent tried this but it sounded like a good
idea.

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 08:37:07 -0600

>asphaltum from what i hear.  havent tried this but it sounded like a good
what is it? where do you get it? how much does it cost?

Mike George

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From: [email-masked] (David Wilson)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 00:04:29 -0600

>In a message dated 96-07-15 13:11:12 EDT, you write:
>>>idea. what is it? where do you get it? how much does it cost?

>try an electronics store.  maybe radio shack could give a lead on it.

Radio Shack also has a kit for this. The kit includes Ferric Chloride and a
pen that's used for a resist. I've used Polyurethane too.

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From: "Franklyn Garland" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 15:46:01 +0000

On 21 Jul 96 at 11:32, [email-masked] wrote <snip-snip>

> >>try the material used on circuit boards as a block.
>>

> try an electronics store.  maybe radio shack could give a lead on

It is none other than a Sharpie Permanent Marker.  The kind you can 
buy in any stationary store.  Ferric Chloride is the etch used, and a 
coating of permanent ink is sufficient to block the etch.  It works, 
but don't disturb it too much while etching.  It -can- smear and ruin 
the etch.

BTW,   a Photo copy, transferred to metal with acetone, can also act 
as a block.  A really ironclad resist is nail polish.  Paint it on, 
scratch out you design, etch, and then clean with acetone.  Works 
very well.  Dry transfer letters work too.  I do a lot of this stuff, 
and depending on the method being used for etching (I prefer 
electro-chemical) you would be amazed what makes an good resist.

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From: "Let's see what's out there, engage! x6821" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 16:45:59 -0500 (CDT)

From:   RACERX::IN%"[email-masked]"
To:     IN%"[email-masked]"
CC:
Subj:   RE: ETCHING MILD STEEL

>electro-chemical) you would be amazed what makes an good resist.

I've also had very good results with a Sharpie permanent marker.  They come in
at least two tip sizes (fine and extra fine) that I'm aware of so you can draw
different width lines.

On the subject of transferring a photocopy directly to the metal, DynaArt
Designs markets a product called the "Toner Transfer System".  These are special
sheets which are used instead of plain paper in a photocopier or laser
printer.  After you have printed on the sheet you transfer the image (toner
"resist") to the metal by heating the back of the paper with a clothes iron. 
They come five sheets ($14.95) or ten sheets ($27.95) to a pack and can be
obtained from DigiKey Corp, MN (order 800 344 4539, http://www.digikey.com)

Another source for etchant and all manner of associated materials is Jameco, CA
(order 800 831 4242)  They have a negative-acting photo resist which will 
actually allow you to create a light sensitive emulsion directly upon the 
substrate to be etched.  Place a negative of your artwork on the metal, expose
to light, develop and etch.

Carmine Forte, BWFA
[email-masked]
Eagle, WI USA