Subject: Layout Tips

From: Mike Linn <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 96 15:51 EST

What is the best way of transfering a full sized drawing from paper to the
layout table. Ive been told to sketch over the drawing with chalk, then tape
the paper facedown on the table and rub the back of the paper to xfer the
chalk to the table. Are there any other suggested methods?

thanks in advance,

mike
 
                                    _///_
                                   /(o o)\
===============================o000o=(_)=o000o====
               Michael Linn 
            Artisian Blacksmith
              AFC Web Master
 http://www.the-matrix.com/afc/index.html
==================================================
Smile, it makes people wonder what you've been up to.

---

From: Tom Vincent <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 21:09:25 -0600 (CST)

Pantograph. See your local enginerring supply store

---

From: Louie Raffloer <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 11:10:26 -0800 (PST)

Hi Mike,
   My personal method for doing lifesize drawings is to do them directly
onto plywood sheet.This is something that I have to do because I usually have
 several large projects going on at the same time and I cant dedicate one
work surface to a drawing.The plywood drawing is don with exact accuracy
and can be moved from the forge area to the welding area and even to the 
site of instllation,if neccessary.If the drawing is interesting and it 
doesn't get to burned while using it,then it is a nice shop wall 
decoration as well as a promotional piece to show future clients.

---

From: Dan Nibbelink <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 20:02:17 -0800

> chalk to the table. Are there any other suggested methods?

A common seamtress tool is a star wheel on a handle - available at your local sewing supply store. 
It is used to poke holes thru a paper pattern along the desired lines. The pattern is then laid out 
over the material and dusted with a contrasting chalk powder. It works for blacksmithing also - 
connect the dots with your chalk. 
-- 
Dan Nibbelink
RedHawk Forge
Berthoud, Colorado
[email-masked]

---

From: "Szucs" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 09:58:39 -0500

On Mar 24,  8:02pm, Dan Nibbelink wrote:

> A common seamtress tool is a star wheel on a handle - available at your
>local sewing supply store. It is used to poke holes thru a paper pattern
>along the desired lines. The pattern is then laid out over the material
>and dusted with a contrasting chalk powder. It works for blacksmithing
>also -  connect the dots with your chalk.

	This is the same technique used when transferring patterns to
	work when gold leafing.  The white powder is called pounce.
	This is an extremely effective method for doing accurate
	transfers as you may witness by observing the work on a well
	done leafed sign on plate glass.  Aand the beauty of it is that
	the orientation of the drawing is immaterial.  You can pounce
	a design from either side of the pattern and get mirror imaged
	results.  Very convenient.

	-Andy V.

---

From: [email-masked] (Gene Olson and Chris Wilson)
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 12:09:33 -0400 (EDT)

>You know? One thing that can be learned from the "CODED TEXT" fiasco is that
>pictures can be sent along with text files. 

A note on size and type: 

graphics files eat disk space, this means being aware that files are
accumulating in the inbox and occasionally cleaning house. (ugh) 

for _line drawings_ a black and white gif is about as tight and clean a
format as you can get, 

Jpg is good for photos 
but lousy for line drawings (it blurs the edges of the lines),
It has several levels of compression, often the difference between a "high"
quality 120k picture and a "low" quality high compression 17k version may be
unnoticeable in the detail you wish to express. Obviously small is better
both for transmission and storage.

There are other graphics formats out there that are great for total control
of info but they are usually memory hogs.  JPEG (jpg,jpe) and GIF are easily
viewed with most browser software which is a plus. Just chose open file,
from the edit menu and point it at the gif or jpeg. 

Gene

 The Studios of Gene Olson and Chris Wilson - Working in Metals, Stone,
Mixed Media
    8600 NE O'Dean Ave, Elk River MN 55330
   fax:  612-441-5846  Phone:  612-441-1563
 email:  [email-masked]    URL:  http://www.cris.com/~mettlewk/

---

From: Dan Nibbelink <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 22 May 1996 23:18:07 -0700

> but lousy for line drawings (it blurs the edges of the lines),

The scanners I have access to can't make GIF or JPG files. They can do BMP, PCX, TIF and a couple 
of others. What would you recommend? I have the WinJPEG program, so I can convert them to GIF or 
JPG.

What format should I save the scan in? If I want a smaller image than the original should I save 
it small and convert it, or save it large, convert it, and then reduce it? Are there different 
recommendations for photo and line drawings.

Thanks
-- 
Dan Nibbelink
RedHawk Forge
Berthoud, Colorado
[email-masked]

---

From: "Dr. Mark E. Williams" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 23 May 1996 10:22:25 -0400

On May 22, 11:18pm, Dan Nibbelink wrote:
> Subject: Re: appended pictures and drawings gif jpg
One program I use quite often is XV, a pretty nifty X-windows program. It is
shareware and available via anonymous ftp on ftp.cis.upenn.edu , in the
directory pub/xv

It allows one to input a file in one format and save it in another. It will
handle GIF, TIFF, JPEG, Postscript, XPM, BMP and others. It has other
capabilities, too. For example, any thing contained in one window can be
grabbed and saved as a separate file in any format.

Just a thought.

-- 
Dr. Mark E. Williams
Bldg N-159, Rm E-215
NASA/GSFC/WFF/EG&G
Wallops Island, VA 23337
804-824-1744
[email-masked]

I wouldn't want to belong to any club that would have me as a member.
Grouch Marx

---

From: Chuck Clarkson <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 23 May 96 22:41:33 CDT

I've used XV in a VMS X-windows environment but I'm not aware of it 
in a PC version.  It is an excellent program.  I'm currently using Graphics 
Workshop for Windows.  It will view nearly any format including video 
in the latest version.  The filename is GWSWN11P.ZIP  on several 
mirror sites of WWW.SHAREWARE.COM.  It is about 900k download.

Chuck Clarkson
Griffith, Indiana

---

From: Norman Larson Books <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 96 22:04:07 PDT

Hope it's OK to ask for this kind of help through this mail list.

I'm working on producing a new catalog and am looking for good videos on 
anything blacksmithing or knifemaking to include.  Maybe I should include other 
areas also?  

Also looking for any good books that I don't already handle to include in the 
catalog--especially would like to include a good, understandable book on 
metallurgy.  Anyone know of one?

Any suggestions are appreciated.  Thanks.

Norm Larson
[email-masked]

---

From: Dan Nibbelink <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 23:01:04 -0700

> Any suggestions are appreciated.  Thanks.

Three good books on metallurgy. I think I got them from Lindsay Pubs.

Non-Technical Chats on Iron and Steel and Their Application to Modern 
Industry 1917, LaVerne W. Spring, Reprinted by Lindsay Publications, ISBN 
1-55918-091-9. I have read this book. It does a good job of explaining 
how iron, steel and products are made. 358 ppg, onl;y 40 pages of 
"metallurgy". 

Elementary Metallurgy and Metallography, 3rd Revised Ed., Arthur M. 
Shrager, Dover Pub, 1969?, ISBN 0-486-60138-2

Tales About Metals, S. Venetsky, Mir Publishers, Moscow. ISBN 
5-03-000054-2. Imported by Import Publications, Inc, 320 West Ohio 
Street, Chicago IL 60610, 800-345-2665. Good English translation of 
Russia book. Non-technical, easy to read. Discusses all metals and uses: 
pure; alloys; as alloying agent; historic; in combinations - both organic 
and non-organic.

Another source of metallurgy books is college texts. Used copies should 
be readily available. Two books I used in college:

Elements of Materials Science, Van Vlack, Addison-Wesley Pub.

Introduction to Physical Metallurgy, Avner, McGraw-Hill, ISBN 
0-07-002499-5

And while we are talking about books about iron and steel -- perhaps the 
ultimate is The Making, Shaping and Treating of Steel, published by 
United States Steel. I don't know if it is still "in print" or how to get 
it. I have a Ninth Edition, published in 1971; 1420 pages - but it 
doesn't have the section on wrought iron which is in my Fifth Edition, 
1941, I would like to have an earlier edition.
-- 
Dan Nibbelink
RedHawk Forge
Berthoud, Colorado
[email-masked]
http://www.csn.net/~dannibb

---

From: "Mark E. Williams" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 07:39:16 -0400

Norm,

One book I've acquired that would be of interest is

Hooks, Rings and Other Things, an Index of New England Iron 1660-1860 by Frank
T. Barnes, ISBN 0-8158-0440-7  Christopher Publishing House 1988 $40

Mark

Be ye doers of the word and not hearers only, lest ye deceive yourselves.
James 1:22

---

From: "Steven O. Smith" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 9:32:59 MDT

> Also looking for any good books that I don't already handle to include =
> in the 
> catalog--especially would like to include a good, understandable book on =
> 

The only metallurgy book I've looked at is "Metallurgy Theory and
Practice", by Dell K. Allen, American Technical Publishers, Inc. 1969.
ISBN: 0-8269-3500-1. It seems to be pretty well written, covers both
ferrous and non-ferrous.

--
Steven O. Smith
[email-masked]

---

From: Jim McCarty <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 16:29:22 -0500

> Any suggestions are appreciated.  Thanks.

Hi Norm,
Now that Tucker is back in print would like to see Charles McRaven's 
"Country Blacksmithing" again. Can you work on this one? I know 
Charles lives somewhere in Virginia. His other books are still in 
print, one on post and bem contsturction and the other on building 
with stone.

Take care, Jim
-- 
Jim McCarty
Father Helias Forge
Taos, MO
Editor Rural Missouri Magazine
Newsletter editor, Blacksmiths Association of Missouri

³Foolish consistencies are the hobgoblins of little minds³