Subject: Tinsmithing question

From: [email-masked] (MR WILLIAM A HOCHELLA)
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 15:04:58, -0500

To All,
Basically all you need is a supply of tin-plated steel sheet, a good 
pair of tin snips or a foot operated shear, an industrial strength 
soldering iron and an idea of what you want to make. A sheet metal 
folding "press" would be a nice adition, too. Centaur Fforge probably 
has books on the subject and if all else fails look at what someone 
else is using.

Good snipping and soldering,

Hochewa

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From: Mike Dickie <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 96 07:22 PDT

>Good snipping and soldering,

I have been unable to locate a source of tin-plate or tern plate anywhere
noth of the 49th.  If anyone know of a source, I would be grateful to hear
of it.  If I have to go to the US side of the border, and deal with the
customs hassles, it will undoubtedly make the whole experience less
rewarding, but I would still like to hear of a US source for tin-plate etc.
too, if anyone out there cares to share the info.

=============================================================================
D. M. (Mike) Dickie 
FLATLANDER FORGE
Box 85
Pennant, SK
Canada S0N 1X0

[email-masked]

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 14:05:29 -0400

Tin plate can be bought from Wheeling Steel at Wheeling WV.  I'm not sure of
the tel. No.
Gil Watkins
Coal River Blacksmithing
St Albans,( East of Charleston) WV
[email-masked]
"Invigorated by an Alfred experience"

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 12:24:04 -0400

Hi Mike..

Tinsmithing can be almost as complex as blacksmithing.  First of all you have
to decide in what time period you are going to be operating.  Anything before
1820-30 would only have used hand tools with a few stakes.  This makes
everything simple, but more work.  In the 1820s simple machines came out to
do some of the work such as turning flanges. The 1880-1920 period would
probably be the best period in that there were machines available for about
everything you wanted to do.

A complete set of stakes consists of about a dozen stakes in the last period.
 Add to these a square and circular shear, a turning, wiring, setting down
and burring machine in different sizes, a riveting and tinsmith's hammer, a
furnace-  either gas or charcoal, a half dozen assorted irons, a couple each
of different types of snips and you'll have a pretty complete shop.  If you
zap me directly, I can elaborate on any of these items or go into detail ad
nauseum.

As far as tin goes.  All of the tin that you get now is electroplated which
does not replicate original tinplate.  That process was done by rubbing a
sheet of iron with sal amoniac and dipping it into vats of melted tin, then
polished.  It produced a heavy, smooth coat.  The new stuff-- after about
1920-- is electroplated and leaves a grainy surface.  (Good way to spot
reproductions.)  The important thing to remember when buying tinplate is the
temper of the sheet.  You don't want the stuff that is used for tin cans. It
is too hard. You want a very soft temper.  If I remember right, it is temper
5.  26 -  28 guage I believe is the right guage for most work. (I'm going by
distant memory.)  

If you're in SA, I'm afraid I can't give you a source north of the border.
 Soft temper tin is getting scarce.   I would check the larger cities like
Edmonton, Vancouver or Toronto for suppliers.

Let me know if you need more info.

Kent Reeves   :o)
[email-masked]
[email-masked] (best when it's working, there installing a new network.)

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 19:08:42 -0400

To All, 
Modern tinplate can be electroplated or hot dipped. The hot dipped material
has a slight ripple because of the flow of liquid tin. Electroplated material
has a thinner and more uniform coating than does the hot dipped stuff. Also
they can coat to two different thicknesses when they electrodeposit.

Hochewa

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From: Dave <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 18:22:47 -0500

>they can coat to two different thicknesses when they electrodeposit.

If 'hot dipping', or flowing the tin onto hot steel, is there anything in
particular that should be done with regards to preparing the steel for the
tinning?  (i.e. should the cleaned iron be fluxed, and if so, what is a good
and proper flux for this type of tinning?)

Dave B
Heritage 'Smithing
Heritage Hill State Historical Park
Green Bay, WI

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 01:15:01 -0400

To All,
Traditionally, the flux used during "hot dipping" was tallow or palm oil
floating on top of the molten tin. The steel sheet must be very clean; no
oxides or dirt. Sand blasting does well as does pickling.

hochewa