Subject: Re: home made gas forge

From: [email-masked] (Ralph A. Kessler)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 17:37:38 -0800

You wrote: 
>
>>I have a homemade pipe forge.  Previously I was using a 7.5 gal 
bottle with
>>an adjustable regulator that I set around 3-5 lb.
>>
>>Recently a friend gave me a 50 gal bottle; it has a large two stage
>>regulator that doesn't seem to allow enough gas flow to supply the 
forge.
>>In the center of the valve, there is a threaded cylinder containing a
>>spring that, I assume, regulates the gas flow.  Pressure on this 
spring may
>>be increased or decreased by turning a sleeve.
>>
>>I assume that this can adjust the flow but currently I can't seem to 
see
>>any difference when I either increase or decrease pressure.
>>
>>How are these things supposed to function.  Any advice re increasing 
my gas
>>flow would be appreciated.
>>
>>Phill Jackson
>>
>>
>Given the posibilities for problems, I don't think I'd mess with it.  
You
>can buy a high volume propane regulator for about $20, gauge for about 
$5
>more brand new.  No safety problems,  that is if it has the same 
threads as
>a smaller tank.
well i have red all this info on pressure regs my question is where can 
i get some plans to buildind a gas forge 
i am new to this type of work so any info would be helpfull
plans supplies an tips
thanx rak

---

From: [email-masked] (Kathleen Clay-Dewey)
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 19:42:46 -0700 (MST)

>>From: Steve Smith <[email-masked]>
>>Dear Vance,
>># My biggest hassle is the top of the forge.
>># Can refractory wool be used right up against the burners?
>>I think you have zeroed in on the main problems in building a
>>gas forge, brick or otherwise. One guy suggested using an
>>appropriately high temp wool supported with raku (clay) buttons.
>
>What is a clay button? I don't know what I'd hold up the wool with.
>A circular design would presumably hold itself up, right?
>
>Also can refractory wool or rammable take direct flame, like
>surrounding the business end of the burner?
>
>>You need a respirator (I use a positive pressure one).
>
>I think I know what a positive pressure respirator is, but where did
>you get it and how much did it cost?
>
>Thanks
>Vance

>From Ike Dewey
Vance, I have an homemade gas forge that is round and I have the wool in it
and it is not attached at all to the walls or ends. Both of my end caps come
off and I have fire bricks (broken pieces and halves)in the bottom of the
forge. It is a two burner atmospheric forge and I have had good luck working
steel in it. I don't do forge welding in it yet but if I were to close up
the front opening some I would probably be able to weld. My burners are just
over the wool and I haven't had any problem with it. I have had it fired up
for about 12 hours at one time and except for the front door getting hot and
starting to glow(9pm)and seeing it in the dark I wouldn't have known. 
  The bricks were red hot but they helped heat up my 1/2" square stock in
it. I do mostly stuff for camping for the S.C.A. I have a coal forge but I
like my gas forge better and it costs me a little more then coal but I don't
have to break it up and keep putting more in the fire.
  LAter       Ike Dewey
              Pan's Forge
              Phoenix,Az
              Land of the dry heat.

---

From: [email-masked] (Jaki & Russ Svaren)
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 21:46:13 -0700 (PDT)

I have built several propane forges, sometimes with kaowool and sometimes
with brick, I think the brick is better because of the fibers from the
kaowool, but my newest one I have covered with a material called "Ins-tuff"
A Ceramic fiber  rigidizer" put out by A. P, Green Industries of Mexico, MO
65265.  I heard about this stuff from Art Jones in California, I have
painted my fiber lined 12" pipe with the rigidizer and the blanket is firm,
not real hard but firm enough that there does not appear to be any loose
fibers.  On my other forges using the Kaowool I have cut out the top of the
pipe so that I can heat long, large and intricate pieces that would be very
difficult to fit in the pipe.  The first forge I made this way, had the top
cut out and I had no trouble with the wool collapsing it became rigid the
first time it was heated.  Hope this helps.

Russ Svaren