Subject: Re: Rolling yer own anvils???

From: [email-masked]
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 23:32:43 -0400

I found out some more info on flame hardening steels.  According to the
March/April 1996, issue of "American Tool, Die & Stamping News" and yes, I am
paraphrasing - a standard die material that flame hardens is SAE J435/0050A
which develops a thin case but is susceptible to cracking and chipping.  A
new, proprietary material called Cast Cut #1 distributed by MPD Welding of
Orion, Michigan "quenches" (air-hardens) to 60-63 Rc and tempers to 59-61 Rc
with great impact strength and ductility.  The case depth is to be a uniform
3/16" to 3/8".  It can also be welded and heat treated with good results.

The photos show all the hardening being done with a hand torch.  Some of the
sections are pretty complex, so an anvil face should be easier.  Maybe you
could make the body and horn of the anvil from A-36 or something similarly
cheap and weld a plate of this CC#1 on top.  A submerged arc process or
possibly some type of beam welding would allow a complete weld to the root to
eliminate "dead spots".  After it's welded, plasma-cut the hardy hole,  drill
the pritchel and flameharden it.  I'm suggesting this method because I think
it may be reasonably cost efficient compared to casting or building the
entire thing from 4140.  Depends on how pricey CC#1 is...

hollis

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From: "Szucs" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 13:59:37 -0400

On Apr 22, 11:32pm, [email-masked] wrote:

	[Good stuff snipped...]

> A
> with great impact strength and ductility.

Would you by any chance have a phone # for MPD?  Thomas Register comes up
blank.

> Maybe you
> cheap and weld a plate of this CC#1 on top.

	I was hoping to avoid getting into a welding operation but it seems
	cost will mandate this.  I suppose this is also a better use of
	materials.  I'm not familiar with A36.  Is this some type of cast
	iron or is it a steel?

> A submerged arc process or
> eliminate "dead spots".

	Any ideas on what this operation might cost?  $50?  $500,000? :)

> After it's welded, plasma-cut the hardy hole,  drill
> the pritchel and flameharden it.

	If possible, I'd probably broach the hardy hole before welding.

> I'm suggesting this method because I think

	If this material is not too terribly expensive, this might indeed be
	a good way to go.

	And now another question regarding design.  A few months back Jim
	Hrisoulas spoke of his 1100# anvil, noting that with a beast this
	size, the working face was sorta like a "small table".  I took it
	to mean that the surface was comparatively large in contrast with
	smaller specimens and that this is a desireable thing.  Assuming
	this to be so, would it pay to design a 200-250# anvil to have a
	significantly enlarged work surface by increasing said surface in
	area and reducing the anvil's height?  IOW, you'd wind up with a
	longer, wider, and shorter anvil.  Are there any reasons why this
	has not been done?  Is there some need to maintain the relative
	proportions?

	A few years ago I was going to make a Japanese style anvil from
	a block of tool steel (H13 or something like that).  It would
	have been about 8W x 15L x 6H.  I forgot about it when my Crucible
	salesman told me what it would cost.

	Anyhow, any ideas, opinions, thoughts, or other musings would be
	appreciated.

	-Andy V.

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From: Chris Kilpatrick <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 19:21:56 -0700

The height was for clearance, that is also why an anvil has a 
skinny waist.  if you short and stubby the anvil, your anvil stand 
has to get taller and narrower if the anvil is to be as useful.

p.s.: these ergonomic keyboards are a PAIN !