Subject: Re: Rolling yer own?

From: Russell McCrackin <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 22:05:51 -0700 (PDT)

At 07:31 PM 4/24/96 -0700, you wrote:
>I have run into some small chinese anvils that are good door stops or 
>boat anchors, but not much else.  the faces are soooo soft (How soft 
>are they?)  they are so soft, i sneezed and dented one ;)
>
>
I got one of them some years back.  Looked nice, all painted grey.
Wanted something to pound on when I first got started in this game.
Found it did not ring, and no rebound.  Dead.  Like hitting lead.
Dented easy, too.  Tried to grind away an edge that had rounded on me.
Found the body of the "anvil" was covered with some kind of epoxy to 
hide all the flaws in the casting, then painted.  Rusted real easy too.
Don't think it would even last very long as a boat anchor.

Get it hot and hit it hard

Rusty

at Rusty Forge

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 [email-masked]

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From: "Szucs" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 09:24:58 -0400

I spoke to Northfield Mfg. yesterday about prices of CC#1.  Here's what they
quote:

	10 - 100 lbs.	$3.90/lb.

So a 30# face would run right around $100.  Not cheap by any stretch.  I'm not
sure what a 3/4 inch thick face would weight, but I'd imagine it would be at
least 20# if not a bit more.  Anyone have any clues?

As for welding, I spoke with MPD and they do only stick welding.  The guy I
spoke with at first said this would be a cheap affair and then came up with
a $1000 ballpark figure stating that stick welding would require a 1" minimum
gap into which filler would be laid, amounting to better than 40# of filler.
I pointed out to him that this placed the goal of $2/# a bit out of reach.

Then he suggested brazing.  That one made me shake my head a few times.

Anyone have any prices per # on 1024?

Oh yes, any ideas on how this plate could be welded to the body without going
into chapter 11?  Explosives?

So far, the costs don't appear to be coming down.  Disturbing, however this
shall not put me off quite so easily.

	-Andy V.

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From: Russell McCrackin <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 12:41:33 -0700 (PDT)

At 05:36 PM 9/11/96 CST, you wrote:
>You guys sure are milking this for all it's worth...
>
>robert
>
>  Robert H. Neidlinger                      [email-masked]
>  "The Tomb Guard"                          [email-masked] 
>  
>
Guess we better get a new handle on this one.

Rusty

Get it hot and hit it hard.

Never use force.  Get a bigger hammer.

 [email-masked]

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From: "Mark E. Williams" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 07:00:31 -0400

On Sep 12, 12:41pm, Russell McCrackin wrote:
> Subject: Re: First aid -Bag Balm (PUNYAK)

I guess if you've herd one you'll herd all.

Mark

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From: Steve Herrick <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 23:09:45 -0700 (PDT)

There's a great book out on the subject. It's called Bag Balm and Duct
Tape. I always use duct tape, makes the wound stick together better... :)

Hrolthgar -   [email-masked]
           Steve Herrick

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From: Steve Herrick <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 23:34:09 -0700 (PDT)

Ok, I need some help with this one...
I bought an anvil that has been broken at the base. The top part is still
intact, but there are no feet or body to the anvil.

        _________________
	|		|_____________
	 \			____/     anvil top
	  \___________________/

		    /\	join the two peices
		    |
		_________
		|	|     fabricated base
	       |	 |
	      |		  |
	      -------------

What I am planing on doing is to make a steel base out of some heavy
steel peices, welding them together,  and then to the anvil top. I will
use 7018 electrodes, a bevel joint for maximum penetration, and a good
preheat in the 250 deg.F range. 

Does anyone have any other suggestions?